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diff --git a/old/55566-8.txt b/old/55566-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 892cc62..0000000 --- a/old/55566-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6437 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of I Go A-Marketing, by Henrietta Sowle - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: I Go A-Marketing - -Author: Henrietta Sowle - -Release Date: September 17, 2017 [EBook #55566] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK I GO A-MARKETING *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy, MFR, Sam W. and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive). For Emmy. - - - - - - - - - - _I Go A-Marketing_ - - _By_ - HENRIETTA SOWLE - ("HENRIETTE") - - - [Illustration] - - - _BOSTON_ · LITTLE, BROWN - AND COMPANY · _MDCCCC_ - - - - - _Copyright, 1900, by LITTLE, - BROWN, AND COMPANY._ - - - UNIVERSITY PRESS · JOHN WILSON - AND SON · CAMBRIDGE, U. S. A. - - - - - _TO_ - - MR. EDWARD H. CLEMENT - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - January 1 - February 20 - March 43 - April 64 - May 78 - June 94 - July 110 - August 128 - September 142 - October 166 - November 188 - December 209 - Index 233 - - - - -_Author's Note_ - - -BEFORE dipping into this book very far, reader (pray note that I cozen -you with neither "gentle" nor "dear"), allow me to suggest that you -familiarize yourself with the spirit of Emerson, who has allowed that -the truly consistent person changes his mind whenever occasion offers. -Then you will be in a frame of mind to acknowledge that I have but -exercised my privilege if you chance upon passages that seem to put me -in a self-contradictory position. I hold to one opinion till new or -increased light shows me I would do well to change, no longer. - -Is it necessary, I wonder, to say that this compilation of -_persiflage_ and cookery is not intended to be the whole culinary -library of any housekeeper? In case it may be believed that I have any -such inflated idea of its value, let me say at once that any -housekeeper who secures this book, by buying or by borrowing, will -want just as many of the old-line "cook-books" at hand as if she had -never heard of it. Its mission is a supplementary one. It is for those -dark and dreary days when the housekeeper "wants something good," but -cannot say what. It suggests. Therein is all of beauty and use, for -"beauty is truth, truth beauty, that is all ye know and all ye need to -know." - -Furthermore, it is for the housekeeper who knows by experience, or -intuition, how to lay a fire, and how to broil a steak. With -kindergarten methods it does not deal--it rather takes it for granted -that it will fall into the hands of those who have been graduated from -kindergarten cookery. Neither does it attempt to set forth the duties -of butlers or of housemaids. It goes on the principle rather that the -housekeeper who supports these factotums knows what their duties -should be. And is there any necessity for those who cannot attain to -such appointments burdening their minds with knowledge never to be -used? Think on all these things omitted when you are getting -inspiration from this slender source, and be thankful that I have -shown so much consideration for you. - - "Read my little fable: - He that runs may read. - Most can raise the flowers now, - For all have got the seed." - - - - -_I Go A-Marketing_ - - - - -JANUARY - - "_Still Beauty must be stealing hearts, - And knavery stealing purses; - Still cooks must live by making tarts - And wits by making verses._" - - -SOME fine day, perchance, I shall to market go and find there what all -housekeepers are "a-sighin' and a-cryin' for"--namely a new edible; -and be it fish, flesh, or fowl, I shall, with all haste, make you -acquainted with its nature, and with the name of the marketman who -introduces the boon; and methinks that nothing short of canonization -should reward the man, or woman, who finds "something new under the -sun." - -But till that blessed day of discovery really arrives I must be -content with telling you of ways that may be new and tricks that are -worth trying for the serving of viands which have constituted human -nature's daily food since the world began. Unless, however, I can -bring to your minds by my suggestions a state of contentment which -will enable you to await that hour of revealment with patience almost -amounting to indifference, my duty is but half done. - - -Sausages - -So here goes for a beginning. Don't you ever feel quite dissatisfied -with the ordinary, yes and the extraordinary, sausages of commerce? Of -course you do. No need to ask. They are flat, there's no gainsaying -it. But it's the easiest thing in the world to have home-made sausages -seasoned to a point that will make them things of gastronomical joy. -There must be equal quantities of lean and fat fresh pork finely -minced; then to a pound of this meat add one-quarter of an ounce of -salt, more or less, one-eighth of an ounce of good business-like -pepper, more or less, and powdered sage _ad lib._ The use of -seasoning, you see, is not bound by any hard and fast rules; in cases -of this kind a due regard must be shown the whims and fancies of the -palates to be pleased. Once you have added the proper amount of -seasoning, add enough well beaten egg to allow of the mixture being -moulded to any desired shape, and fried to a nice brown. And there you -have a dish fit to put before a king. If the simplicity and homeliness -of it somewhat upsets your equilibrium, why call it saucisses -grillées; they'll taste just as well. They can be served either upon -rounds of toasted bread or upon a foundation of cold boiled potatoes -which have been diced and heated in cream. - -If you are having them for luncheon then serve them on toast, but with -the addition of a tomato purée. No need to tell how to make that; it's -an old story. - - -Broiled Pork Chops; Piquant Sauce - -Another old story, altogether too old, is the way most housekeepers -have of frying pork chops. They should never be fried. The only -respectable way is to broil them decently and in order over a hot bed -of coals. In that way what little juice they contain will be retained. -But even then they will be so dry that you must supplement them with -something,--say a sauce made of half a pint of good clear stock, -highly seasoned, and having in it a tablespoonful of chopped pickled -peppers and some sliced gherkins, with the juice of a lemon added. - - -Apple Croquettes - -Or, you can serve with them apple croquettes, made by stewing the -apples in a little butter, with a tiny bit of sugar; when quite cold, -with the aid of a few bread-crumbs, shape the apple into croquettes, -roll them in crumbs and beaten egg and fry. Arrange the croquettes, -which must be not more than an inch in diameter, with the chops upon a -platter in any fanciful way that suggests itself to you, and the -condition of the platter at the end of the meal will tell you whether -or not the experiment was worth the trying. - - -Roasted Pork with Onion Sauce - -These croquettes will win favor for themselves if you will try serving -them some time with a loin of fresh pork, roasted. You will want to -serve with them only the simplest kind of clear gravy. But you may -prefer to serve the roasted loin of pork on steamed rice garnished -with button onions, which have been boiled till fairly tender and then -fried in butter to a light brown. If this is your preference, make a -sauce by frying in two gills of oil, half a pound of minced onion, a -pinch of parsley leaves, a crushed clove of garlic and a bay leaf, -with salt and pepper; dilute with a pint of good stock, preferably -white; strain and finish by adding the juice of a lemon and an ounce -of fresh butter. By the way, when fresh pork is to be roasted, it is -an excellent plan to rub salt well into it about twenty-four hours -before cooking. If you slice and serve it cold you will readily see -the wisdom of giving the salt a chance to work its way through and -season the whole loin. - - -Roasted Ham - -When a ham is to be roasted, and small hams do make excellent roasts, -a ham of about five pounds' weight should be skinned and boiled in -enough water to cover it; in this water you will want to put, just for -variety's sake, a carrot, an onion, three bay-leaves, three cloves, -one clove of garlic, and six peppercorns. Boil very gently for about -one hour; then remove from the fire, drain it well, and coat it with a -paste of oil and flour. Be sure that it is well covered with the paste -to prevent the escape of the juice, put into the oven and roast for -about two hours. - - -Cider Sauce - -Serve it with a sauce made of a sufficient quantity of the stock, to -which you have added half its amount of cider, and there you behold -what is commonly known as champagne sauce. But, bless you, it's very -doubtful if champagne is often used, as after it is heated it would be -a sensitive palate indeed that could tell whether champagne or cider -were employed. - -Just a hint right here of what may be done with bits of cold ham, for -we may never be on this subject again. Have some thin slices of -toasted white bread, spread well with butter and a trifle of mustard, -then equal parts of grated cheese and minced ham, and some cayenne -pepper. Send to the oven for a few minutes, or until the cheese is -dissolved, and serve immediately. Say what you will, it is a -delectable dish, this ham toast, and whether you allow for it in a -prearranged luncheon or whether it is concocted on the impulse of the -moment, when the necessity suddenly arises for a dish of the kind, -trust me, whoever partakes of it will vow that it "relishes of wit and -invention." - - -Broiled Pigs' Feet - -Perhaps this batch of suggestions would be incomplete with no -reference in it to the cooking of pigs' feet, and yet there's very -little variety in the methods of preparing them. The simplest is the -best, it seems to me, and that is dipping them in melted butter, then -in bread-crumbs, and broiling over a moderate fire. A piquant sauce is -by long odds the sauce par excellence to be served with them. Some -chefs de cuisine prepare them elaborately with truffles, to my mind, -however, there's an incongruity in a combination of pork and truffles. -But of course it's only a matter of taste, and it is more than -possible that there will be some who read this and deplore my poor -taste in devoting so much space to ways and means of cooking pork. - -Well, to such I offer the suggestion that they call it a chapter on -porcine potentials, and pass on. - - * * * * * - -By all means let us be economical--truly economical. But let us never -make the grievous but common mistake of thinking that the buying of -cheap, downright cheap food is economy. To commit such an error in -judgment is to lay the cornerstone of more than one kind of -unhappiness. But you know that, too. And with so many inexpensive -viands as there are to be had, susceptible as they are of so many ways -of serving, one can, with the exercise of a little judgment in such -matters, have the appearance of "living high" when in reality one is -laying up money out of the weekly table allowance, if one has such an -institution in one's family. For myself, I have a great respect for a -housekeeper who keeps within her allowance week in and week out, year -after year. But for the one who cuts loose occasionally from all -allowance limits when there is a "good thing up" I have the sincerest -admiration and sympathy. It is with such a one that I always feel -tempted to outstay my welcome if I get the shadow of a chance to be so -ill bred. Such an ignoring of trammels of the financial sort is an -indication of truancy in other matters now and then that rather -appeals to me, to be very honest about it. But I don't recommend it to -you or to any one. Perhaps it hasn't a place here, but since it is -written it shall stand, labelled _En parenthèse_. - -And we will talk of codfish--fresh codfish. This is a species of the -gadus family that is eligible for duty in a family of any class--high, -low, or middle. It may follow the soup at an unlimited course dinner -and not be out of its element or it may form the _pièce de -résistance_, or in fact the only piece of any kind at a dinner of -another sort and still be quite at home. - - -Fresh Codfish, Delmonico Style; Broiled Fresh Codfish - -Now let us get to business. Suppose that some day you have a piping -hot oven that is as idle as you would like to be and that you have -also a fresh codfish in the house split with the backbone removed for -broiling. Let me suggest that you dry it well, put it in a buttered -baking pan, skin side down, coat it with melted butter, sprinkle it -with salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped parsley and chopped onion. -Then bestrew it with bread crumbs moistened in melted butter and set -into the oven to brown. Get it out as gracefully as possible when it -is done, flip a little melted butter and lemon juice over it and -serve. Or, if you can't break away from tradition and have sworn to -have a broiled fish broiled then I am sure that you do keep within -your allowance for the table and will treat the fish this way: You -will dry it well with a cloth, then brush it with melted butter, -sprinkle salt and a little pepper, put it on the buttered bars of the -broiler, and let the fire do the rest. Then after it is dished, -sprinkle it with perhaps a few capers, surround it with broiled thin -slices of bacon, and be on the alert to catch the first expression -that flits over the face of the one who furnishes you with the -aforesaid table allowance to see if all is well with the fish and -consequently with you. Am I right? - - -Baked Fresh Codfish - -But I would be willing to wager the price of a whole "catch" of -codfish that I can tell you of a bran new way to bake one. Read and -see for yourself. Have the size that seems to find most favor in your -family and fill it with a forcemeat made by mincing to paste a pound -of raw codfish. Add to it half a pint of cream that has been just -boiled, that's all, and thickened with two eggs. Season with salt, a -chopped onion--chopped so finely that it is of a paste consistency and -fill the fish with the mixture. For pepper let me suggest that you use -paprika in preference to any other brand. Cook till the fish is done -and serve with any rich sauce that appeals to you. - -Any or all of the foregoing recipes may be applied to haddock, as you -probably suspect--if you know anything at all about fish. - - * * * * * - -You don't know, you housekeepers of America what a jolly good -reputation you've got to live up to unless you happen to have read -G. W. Steevens's clever book, "The Land of the Dollar," in which he -says of our national breakfasts: "First you have fruit--wonderful -pears that look like green stones and taste like the Tree of Life. -Then mush, so they call oatmeal porridge, or wheatmeal porridge or -hominy porridge, a noble food with the nectarous American cream. Then -fishes and meats, sausages, and bacon and eggs. Then strange -farinaceous foods which you marvel to find yourself swallowing with -avid gust--graham bread, soda biscuits, buckwheat or griddle cakes -with butter and maple treacle. It is magnificent; but it is -indigestion. All the same, I look forward to the day when America -shall produce an invention that will let me go across the Atlantic -every morning for breakfast. I shall take a season ticket." - -Now let my humble pen chip in two or three things that shall help you -to live up to this estimate of you. - - -Sweet Corn Croquettes - -Suppose you are having a dish of fried eggs after a manner described -later on in this book. Go still further, and see fit to have some -croquettes also. Do you know just what they should be? If in doubt let -them be of canned sweet corn. Mix with half a can of the corn -two-thirds of its quantity of mashed potatoes, salt and a good -generous bit of melted butter. Then form into croquettes, dip in -beaten egg and crumbs and fry to a fine color in hot fat. - - -Sublimated Hash - -Or, as second choice, you might like hash instead of the eggs fried. -Now, look here; you know me well enough by this time, I hope, to -believe that when I suggest hash it is none of the commonplace minces -that you shun at the table of your very best friend. Of what I have to -say in the line of hash you won't be overdoing the thing if you refer -to it for evermore as a "sublimated hash." See for yourself: Chop an -onion and fry it in a good bit of butter till it is tender and -likewise brown. Then put into the butter two cupfuls of diced cold -mutton, diced not chopped, and one cupful of diced cold boiled -potatoes. Pepper and salt to your fancy. Then put in four -tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and have ready some chopped parsley for -sprinkling over the dish when it is served. - - -Rice Muffins - -You might for a flyer try rice muffins with this hash. Have a cup of -flour and sifted through it two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. -Add to it a tablespoonful of sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and pass -this through a sieve. Have three eggs well beaten in a cup of milk -with half a cup of melted butter and stir into the flour. When it is -perfectly smooth add to it two cupfuls of cold boiled or steamed rice. -Turn into small pans and bake in a hot oven. By grating in a little -nutmeg to these muffins you will have a delicious dish for luncheon. - - -Rhode Island Johnnycake - -Now, our friend Steevens spoke of griddle cakes and buckwheat cakes. -Of these you know all that is necessary for any housekeeper to know. -But I'll wager a good sum that Rhode Island meal is an unknown -quantity to you. Make its acquaintance then as soon as possible and -set about having Rhode Island johnnycakes often. You will want nothing -but the meal, some milk and salt. Have them considerably thinner than -ordinary flour griddle cakes and fry in a little fat on a hot griddle -so that the edges are crisp and toothsome. If you want to bake them -have a cup of meal to a cup and one-half of milk with a pinch of salt, -and bake in gem pans till brown. Instead of having butter with either -the fried or baked specimens of this johnnycake try some of our -"nectarous cream." Is it a go? - - * * * * * - -Now and then, throughout this book, the directions for making a salad -are brought in incidentally to the main topic of discourse. Nowhere -are they treated as the _pièce de résistance_, so to speak, of a -chapter. And here are not many--only a few that go especially well in -cold weather, when to have any variety at all in salads incurs a -considerable outlay of rumination. Just a little inventive faculty and -a firm purpose to have your table superior, even in details, to that -of your dearest enemy, and you can with materials on hand in January -have salads that give the eternal chicken and lobster with mayonnaise -the go-by,--though, I fear me, the snubbing in the near future will -come from the lobster itself. But that's not to be discussed at just -this minute. - - -Red Cabbage Salad - -Before this you have probably made red cabbage salad with a French -dressing and with a spread of mayonnaise over it, so that you think -you know it all, but have you tried adding to it some celery? This is -the way it is done. All the coarse outside leaves of the cabbage are -removed and the inside is finely shredded. Then the best stalks of a -head of celery are cut into inch pieces and put into the salad bowl, a -layer of celery, then one of the cabbage, and so on, heaping a bit in -the centre. Garnish with the fresh green leaves of the celery; pour a -dressing, made of a beaten egg, three tablespoonfuls of oil, two of -vinegar, a saltspoon of salt, a dash of cayenne, and a suspicion of -mustard, over all, and let stand for half an hour in a cool place -before serving. For luncheon, when you are having croquettes of -left-over ham bits, or of cold tongue scraps, this goes very near to -being what would tempt any sane person to ask for a second helping. - - -Spanish Onion Salad - -Then there is a way to make an onion salad, that sets you to wondering -why you never heard of it before. Have the Spanish onions, and soak -them four or five hours, after peeling, in cold water, changing the -water every hour, or even oftener, if your time isn't too precious. -Then slice and chop them, but not to the mussy stage. Freeze them, not -too hard, but so they will be crisp and cold. Meanwhile, prepare a -dressing of two-thirds oil to one-third vinegar, with salt and pepper -to taste, and pour over them. Serve immediately. But don't forget the -garnish, which naturally suggests itself--parsley, to be sure, and -plenty of it. With this salad? Well, we will suppose it is making its -début in your household at an after-theatre snack. So have with it -toasted water crackers, a bit of Swiss cheese, a smoked herring or -two. And beer, of course. - - -Sardine Salad - -Now, don't skip what is going down here about a sardine salad--you -will miss it if you do. I know you will say you wouldn't fancy the oil -in which they are preserved in a salad, and I can see that rather -superior curl your lip takes on as you say it. But soak them for an -hour in vinegar, then remove the skin from them and arrange in a -circle on your salad dish. In the centre heap pitted and quartered -olives. Make a dressing of the strained juice of a lemon mixed with a -tablespoonful of olive oil, a bit of salt and of paprika, and over all -a sprinkling of capers. Then, take a taste of it when your turn comes, -and be sorry you were inclined to pass by it. - - -Brussels Sprouts Salad - -Now and then, you know, we do have a few Brussels sprouts left over -from the day before's dinner, and at the price usually asked we -couldn't throw them away, and yet there weren't enough to pay for -reheating. So, in order to be forehanded, and also to have the -"makings" of a delicious salad in the house, get double the quantity -you usually have the next time you are getting them, and be glad for -every one that is left over, for the next day you will sprinkle a few -drops of lemon juice over them, coat them with a mayonnaise, sprinkle -with capers and sliced olives, and serve very cold. At a simple little -dinner, where you are having "left-overs" daintily fixed up, this -salad works in beautifully, or if you are giving a dinner that is as -elaborate as anything you ever turn out, count on this salad to be one -of the features of your dinner. - - -Oyster Salad - -A delicious offering to put before your household some night is a -salad of oysters. Have a quart of them, say, drain and wipe them well -from their own liquor. Boil a cup of vinegar, and season it while -boiling with salt and white pepper. Pour it over the oysters, and let -them stand for two hours or so. Then drain them pretty dry, and lay on -a bed of chopped celery in the salad bowl. If the oysters are very -large cut in halves or quarters. Have a layer of chopped celery on top -of the oysters, and coat thickly with mayonnaise. Be sure, however, -that the oysters are perfectly cold before adding to the celery. -Garnish with a few oyster crabs, pickled at the same time the oysters -were pickled, and some sliced olives. To be very, very extravagant in -making this salad, if you so want to be for the purpose of impressing -some one, add to it a few sliced truffles that have been soaked in -white wine for an hour or two. - - -Nut Salad - -For some occasions, at this season of the year, a nut salad just fills -the bill as nothing else can. Choose almost any kind of nuts, but -preferably let them be mainly English walnuts. Have them in halves, or -in quarters, and squeeze lemon juice over them fifteen minutes before -dressing. Then add to them half their quantity of quartered olives, -some very tender little celery leaves, and a thin mask of mayonnaise. -Really, when you have turned out this salad, for a party supper, say, -you need give yourselves very little uneasiness as to how the other -viands will set with your guests. Such a salad is calculated to redeem -a good many faults in other directions. - - -Fruit Salad - -Just a word about a sweet salad, and this screed is ended. Oranges. It -shall be of oranges--big, luscious, juicy, seedless oranges, that are -at their height for the next two months or more. These you slice, -after peeling, as you would an apple. Put a layer of them in a bowl, -sprinkle with powdered sugar and a few drops of orange curaçoa. Then -another layer of oranges, another of sugar, another fall of curaçoa, -and so on till the dish is full. Then, if there are half a dozen -oranges used, pour over them about half a gill of brandy, either the -plain brandy or apricot brandy. The latter, I find, is possessed of a -mysterious flavor that, when added to an orange salad, just sets -people to wondering why it is they have to go away from home to find -such delights. - - - - -FEBRUARY - - "_To sing the same tune, as the saying is, is in everything - cloying and offensive; but men are generally pleased with - variety._" - - -ONCE upon a time, one of the resourceless sort of housekeepers said to -me that she was never quite so stumped as when she felt the economical -burden laid upon her to utilize lamb or mutton "left-overs." Now, this -has been quite the opposite of my experience. In fact, I wouldn't -acknowledge that I found cold lamb a facer, anyway. - - -Roast Lamb with Caper Sauce - -Suppose we talk of a leg of lamb roasted in this way: The bone neatly -removed, the cavity filled with a mushroom stuffing, then roasted in a -hot oven and served with caper sauce and currant jelly. To be sure I -know you would as soon have pledged yourself to break one of the -commandments, as to serve caper sauce with roasted lamb, if I had not -tempted you. But you will do it, now that the suggestion has entered -your consciousness of gastronomical beauties. - - -Roast Lamb with Onion Purée - -Or, if, in the first blush, it doesn't appeal to you, there's this -way of roasting lamb that I dare say is new to you. First, make an -onion purée, by mincing one quart of onions and boiling them till -tender. Drain very dry, put them in a saucepan with two ounces of -butter; season with salt and pepper; let them simmer for ten or -fifteen minutes, but don't let them brown. Then add to them half a -pint of cream, and press all through a sieve, when serving as sauce. - - -Roast Lamb with Macaroni - -Can you stand another novelty? It's this. Put the lamb in the -roasting-pan, and just a half hour before you think it is to be done, -take it out and cover the bottom of the pan with boiled macaroni. Lay -the lamb on this, and prick it all over that the juice may run over -the macaroni. Moisten the macaroni with a little stock, too, if it -threatens to get too dry or too brown. When the lamb is roasted take -it out, heap the macaroni on a dish, pour a little tomato sauce over -it, sprinkle with Parmesan and send to table. Have a little tomato, or -any other sauce that pleases you, with the lamb, if you feel that you -must have a sauce. - - -Broiled Lamb Slices - -Now, for the second day--no, the third day, rather. Skip a day before -dishing a reheating of the lamb. Then get some good slices from the -joint, even as to size and thickness, and lay them for an hour in a -dressing of two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of Tarragon vinegar, with -salt and pepper. Take them out of the dressing, dip in bread crumbs, -broil over a hot fire, and serve with a tartar sauce, or, if you like, -with some of the onion purée, if any was left. - - -Fried Lamb with Chutney - -If you like chutney, and of course you do, have some neat slices of -cold lamb spread with this palate-tickler, roll each slice up, coat -with crumbs, and fry in boiling fat till brown. Skewer the rolled -slices to keep them in shape. When serving, sprinkle with a few drops -of lemon juice. It will be a question with you, probably, which of -these two ways of reheating is better. But that's the sort of recipes -with which to load your intelligence, so don't complain. - - -Lamb Slices with Onions and Mushrooms - -Can you digest another warmed-over dish of lamb? This time have the -slices thick rather than thin, and put them in a stewpan with enough -sherry wine to cover them. Cover closely, and let heat slowly while -you are tossing together, in a little butter, some minced boiled onion -and button mushrooms. Color slightly, and moisten with a little rich -stock. Take up the slices of lamb, arrange in a circle on a dish, fill -the centre with the onions and mushrooms, pour the wine over all, and -take the trick. It's yours. In case you don't like as much wine as is -required to cover the lamb, use half wine and half water, and the -juice of a lemon. - - -Lamb Slices in Chafing Dish - -If you want to try the reheating of the lamb in the chafing dish, have -it sliced as neatly as possible, and make ready in the chafing dish a -sauce of one wineglass of port wine, half a pint of good stock, -thickened, a teaspoonful of walnut ketchup, the same of French -mustard, and a pinch of salt. When this is hot put in the lamb, and -serve as soon as heated through. - -If with any of the foregoing recipes you think you would fancy a -border of rice, have it, by all means. But have plenty of butter in -the water in which the rice is boiled; or if it is steamed, have it -moistened well with butter just the same. - - -Lamb Croquettes - -You might fancy this rice border with lamb croquettes. These, you -know, are made by having the lamb chopped finely, and added to it half -its quantity of chopped mushrooms. Moisten with a little tomato -sauce, shape and fry. - - -Lamb Salad - -Surely you will not take offence if I assume, at this stage of the -game, that you are educated up to a point where you can appreciate the -delights that centre in a lamb salad. You dice the lamb, having it -free of all fat and sinew. Then put a layer of it in the bottom of the -salad bowl. Have a dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, with a -bit of French mustard in it, at hand, and with this sprinkle the lamb. -Bestrew it, too, with a chopped anchovy or two, or more, if you are -fond of anchovies. Then put in a layer of cold boiled potatoes, -diced--more dressing; another stratum of lamb, and so on till the dish -is full, having it mound-shaped. Garnish with sliced gherkins and -capers, and let it go at that. - - * * * * * - -I would that fewer nursery rhymers had taken trips to market for their -text when their pens took to turning out jingles; for goodness knows -that what with "To market, to market to buy a fat pig," and "To -market, to market, all on a market day," keeping up a continuous -jig-like theme in my mind, to say nothing of the insistent -interruptions by the "little pig that went to market" I am well-nigh -distracted when I try to get dry-as-dust facts from the marketman -anent commonplace eatables. To be sure, if I go in search of frogs' -legs, say, and the story of the frog who went a-wooing recurs to my -mind three or four times in a minute, it seems quite appropriate and -doesn't interfere in the least with my driving a pretty sharp bargain -with the fish-dealer. But, so far as I know, no poet or writer of -assonance has taken it into his head to sing a song of livers, -kidneys, and such like edibles of which I am telling you herein, and -no wonder, you may say, if I don't succeed in making my story fairly -interesting, as well as appetizing--though from the nature of it if it -is one it must be the other. - - -Kidneys en Brochette - -Everybody knows, I fancy, that when one has cut off the skin of some -lambs' kidneys, and then cut the kidneys into quarter-inch-thick -slices, seasoned them with salt and pepper, dipped them in oil, and -then threaded them on skewers with alternating slices of bacon a -brochette of kidneys is well under way. To complete the operation they -are dipped into oil, then into bread-crumbs and broiled over a slow -fire. In serving there's no reason in the world why one should not -indulge one's fancy for any simple sauce that will help the kidneys to -tickle one's palate. Good as this dish is, I must confess I like it -better when chickens' livers are substituted for the kidneys. By the -way, do you know that every up-to-date marketman has them all -skewered, and all that you have to do is to add the seasoning and see -to the broiling? - - -Fried Kidneys with Mushrooms - -Another really delightful way of serving lambs' kidneys is to prepare -in a frying-pan a tablespoonful of chopped onions, a small chopped -shallot, a clove of garlic and as many fresh mushrooms as you feel -like buying, with salt and pepper to taste, and an ounce or so of -butter; don't let the vegetables color at all, and perhaps the best -way to avoid this is to add a gill or so of any kind of wine and the -same of cream. Let this sauce mull a while on the back of the range, -while you broil the number of kidneys desired, after having skinned -and split each one in two lengthwise. Dish and pour over them the -sauce, removing from it the garlic. If you've never heard of this way -for preparing kidneys, it seems to me that you should be very -grateful to me for calling your attention to it. - - -Minced Kidneys; Macaroni Croquettes - -And may your gratitude be re-enforced after you have tried cooking -veal kidneys in this fashion: Mince three very small ones, after -removing all the fat and fibrous parts, and fry them in butter over a -hot fire. Don't let them get wizzled up, but just done to a turn, then -take from the frying-pan and add to the butter in which they were -fried some tomato sauce highly seasoned, half a can of mushrooms, some -lemon juice, and chopped parsley; pour over the kidneys and even if -you serve them in just this manner they will prove a great success; -but should you wish to make it a dish to linger in one's memory, then -garnish it with macaroni croquettes. Ever make them? Well, boil a -pound of macaroni in salted water for fifteen minutes. Then drain and -cut it into quarter-inch lengths; put back into the saucepan with a -little grated cheese, a little salt, cayenne pepper and a gill of -cream. Let it get perfectly cold, then mould into croquettes, either -cylinder-shaped or any other form, only have them very small; dip in -egg and bread-crumbs and fry a pretty brown. - -These macaroni croquettes, by the way, make a suitable garnish for -any number of dishes; try them with veal cutlets some time, or with -thin, dainty slices of ham broiled for luncheon, and you'll get more -than your labor for your pains. - - -Fried Calf's Liver - -If you are thinking to have liver, then my advice to you is to get if -possible only that of a calf. To buy that of an older "beef critter" -is so often a waste of time and money that it's just as well to forego -buying it altogether--it is so apt to have too much flavor, so to -speak, or be tough or stringy, and wholly unsatisfactory. But get a -calf's liver, and something of a treat is in store for you, whether -you fry it with bacon or prepare it in this way: Cut up finely three -or four good-sized white onions and fry them in butter till of a -golden brown. Drain the butter off and cover the onions with white -stock; let cook for half an hour, then moisten with more stock and -season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and just a suspicion of -lemon juice. Fry the slices of liver, which should not be over half an -inch in thickness, in enough butter to keep them from hardening; drain -off the butter and add the above sauce; let it boil up once, then -serve, and garnish with slices of lemon. Perhaps this is a bit heavy -for a breakfast dish--to my mind it is decidedly so--while for -luncheon, where one is having a salad of watercress, or for an entrée -at dinner it seems to be quite in its rightful place. - -If the liver is to be served for breakfast, then it is a good idea to -roll the slices in a little flour, sprinkle melted butter over them -and broil over the coals, squeezing just enough lemon juice and -sprinkling just enough chopped parsley over them to make them grateful -to the taste and eye when served. - - -Sauce for Calf's Liver - -But why don't you try to invent a sauce for calf's liver? Fry it in -plenty of butter, then add to the butter, when the liver is removed, -anything that your palate suggests or which your common sense -approves. For instance, put in a few tiny slices of gherkin, a handful -of mushrooms, a soupçon of tomato sauce, a few capers, a little lemon -juice, chopped chives or chervil, chopped shallot or any herb or -condiment that you may have in the house. Of course you don't want to -use all of these articles, but try a combination of any two or three -or more of them, with the addition of a little stock and--who -knows?--you may invent a sauce that will make you as famous as was -Béchamel, Condé or Carême. Success be with you! - - * * * * * - -"Do be kind enough some of these times when you are scribbling about -the good things at market to bear in mind that not every one is hale -and hearty and blessed with digestive organs that could stand a diet -of shingle nails. Give a thought to the poor unfortunates that are -obliged to think twice before gratifying their appetites once." Thus -wailed one of the said "poor unfortunates" once upon a time, and as a -result of the complaint I have since been "holding them in thought" to -a considerable extent, with a view to making the material aspect of a -period of invalidism and convalescence a bit the brighter. - - -Chicken Broth with Oatmeal - -Of course we all know that the list of eatables allowed an invalid or -a convalescent is of necessity a rather short one; but there is an -infinite number of ways for varying the list, if one will use a little -judgment and good taste in preparing the dishes. We have all had -experience in seeing a sick person make a wry face at the mention of -gruel or porridge, and precious little we blamed him for it, to tell -the truth. But the whole condition of affairs may be changed by -preparing it in this way: Have a pint of good clear chicken broth, -free from fat and not too strong; boil it, and into it shake slowly a -cup of oatmeal or wheaten grits; let it cook for half an hour or so, -pass it through a wire sieve, and add to it a little more broth if -that is necessary to make it fit to be sipped easily from a cup -without using a spoon. Take it to the sick-room with the remark, "I -have brought you a little purée of oatmeal," and my word for it you -will not see a drop left in the cup. - - -Purée of Barley - -And a purée of barley will be quite as acceptable. Soak the barley -over night, and the next morning cover it with chicken broth; boil -until the barley bursts, adding broth from time to time as it cooks -away; when the broth begins to thicken, which will be at the end of -about three hours' time, strain it through a very fine sieve. Serve it -in a cup; and if you dare do such a thing, add a tiny bit of butter to -it. It makes it a deal more palatable, and I don't believe it will -harm the patient; but it's quite possible the physician in charge may -think otherwise. - - -Beef Tea - -There are ways and ways for making beef tea; but the best of all ways, -it seems to me, is to have round steak about one inch in thickness, -broil it for two minutes on each side over a brisk fire, cut it up -into inch squares, cover it with cold water, and let it steep, not -boil, for two hours. Serve it in a cup, and salt when serving. You and -the ailing one will find, I think, that the broiling of the steak -gives the tea a flavor that makes it "hit the spot"--a consummation -devoutly to be wished when one is catering for an invalid. - - -Cream Soup - -Cream soups make a pleasing change after plain broths or teas. Take -any white stock that is rich, free from fat and well seasoned. Put -into a saucepan half a pint of the stock and the same quantity of -cream. When it comes to a boil add one tablespoonful of flour -thoroughly moistened with cold milk, and let it boil at once. Serve -with it finger-pieces of thin buttered toast. - - -Sabayon of Chicken - -A highly nutritious dish is made by putting four egg-yolks into a -double boiler, diluting them with half a pint of clear chicken broth, -and beating the mixture with a whip or beater until it becomes thick -and frothy. When it is done add two teaspoonfuls of sherry to it, and -serve in a cup; have it just as hot as possible. And if the person for -whom you concoct this appetizing affair insists upon knowing its name, -you may say that it is a sabayon of chicken. - - -Chicken Custard - -And, by the way, what an endless amount of dainty edibles may be made -from chicken! Take a chicken custard, for instance; could anything be -daintier? Have a cupful of good clear chicken stock, and add to it an -equal quantity of cream; cook it for a few minutes, then put it into a -double boiler, and add the beaten yolks of three eggs and a little -salt. Cook until the mixture thickens a little, and then pour it into -custard cups to be served cold. It's an ungrateful, whimsical, and -grumpy sort of an invalid who doesn't reckon as a red-letter day the -time when he first tasted of a chicken custard. But whether or not -this is the case, you will have to keep right on shaking up your ideas -and producing other dishes. - - -Tapioca Jelly - -In all probability you will try your hand at jelly-making; and when -you have exhausted your own stock of recipes try making a tapioca -jelly. To prepare it, soak one cup of tapioca in three cups of water -over night. In the morning put it into a double boiler with a cup of -hot water, and let it simmer until perfectly clear, stirring often. -Sweeten to taste and flavor with the juice of half a lemon and two -tablespoonfuls of wine. Pour into cups, and set away to get perfectly -cold. When serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar and heap a little -whipped cream on it. - -Or it may be that a blanc-mange made with tapioca will seem to you -worth the trying. If so, soak a cupful of tapioca in two cups of water -over night. In the morning put it into the double boiler, and stir -into it two cups of boiling milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a -pinch of salt. Cook it slowly for fifteen minutes, stirring several -times. Take it from the fire, and flavor with wine or vanilla. Let it -harden in small moulds, and serve with powdered sugar and whipped -cream. - - -Violet Jelly - -And some day when the patient is unusually capricious try surprising -him or her with a violet jelly. A woman I know told me not long ago -that she had found it more efficacious than a dozen "soft answers." -Have a pint of clear boiling syrup, and into it throw a heaping -handful of fresh violets, after removing the stalks; let this simmer, -tightly covered, for half an hour. Then strain the liquor, and add to -it half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a very little water, the -juice of an orange, and two teaspoonfuls of violet vegetable coloring, -which is as harmless as so much cold water. Turn it into a mould, and -set on ice to harden. - - -Steamed Rice - -When boiled or steamed rice is ordered, try preparing it in this way. -Wash a cupful of it thoroughly and put into the double boiler with -just enough water to cover it. When the rice is nearly done, pour off -the water, if any remains, and add one cup of milk and a little salt. -Let the rice cook thoroughly till done. Beat an egg well, and the last -thing before taking the rice from the fire stir the egg in as lightly -as possible, and serve hot with sugar and cream. The egg makes the -dish a bit more attractive and considerably more nutritious. - - -Invalid's Chop - -I wonder if you have ever tried cooking a lamb chop or cutlet in this -way. Have three cutlets cut, two of them rather thinner than the -third, then tie them together, the thick one in the middle. Broil -over a hot fire till the outside cutlets are burnt to a crisp, and at -that stage you will find the inside one in just the right condition -for serving; salt it, and serve piping hot. With it serve a baked -potato that has been pressed through a sieve. Sprinkle the potato with -salt and moisten it with a little cream. To be sure you may think that -a somewhat expensive way of cooking a lamb chop, and so it is from -some points of view; but it will set any self-respecting convalescent -at least two days ahead on his journey to complete recovery, and when -you think of it in that way you see it's positively cheap. All these -things, yea, and a thousand more, must be taken into consideration -when one is in attendance upon a sick person. - - * * * * * - -To say that every one should have a chafing-dish in these days were to -be trite--everyone should have seven chafing-dishes, or as near that -number as possible; not one for every day in the week exactly, but -rather that, if you are having a little after-the-opera or -after-the-theatre jollification and have a dozen or so hungry ones to -feed, there may be enough to go round, and also that you may have a -variety of dainties. - - -Creamed Oysters - -Not all will want creamed oysters, of course, but you can set a pretty -girl to preparing this dish for those who do want it. Give her about -half a pint of rich, thick cream, an ounce or so of butter and a -teaspoonful of flour which she will braid together in the most -approved cooking-school fashion for thickening the cream when it is -hot. Then she should put in two dozen or so oysters that have been -well drained and freed from any bits of shell. If you can trust her to -do so, let her season the dish with a dash of red pepper, and salt, -and a shake or two of celery salt. When the edges of the oysters begin -to frizzle, have ready for her either little strips of toast or some -crackers on hot plates, on which to serve the oysters. If you find -that more than three persons will be apt to bid for the creamed -oysters, you will want rather more than two dozen, I fancy; still, you -will know best about that. - - -Flaked Cold Cod in Tomato - -If you have any cold fish in the house, halibut or cod or haddock that -has been boiled or baked, not fried, have it flaked up in good-sized -pieces and marinated for three or four hours in a tablespoonful each -of oil and vinegar, a dash of cayenne, the juice of an onion and salt -to taste. When you are to use it have hot in the chafing-dish three -teaspoonfuls each of rich tomato sauce, sherry wine and butter, -putting the butter in and melting it first. When these are well -blended together, lay in the fish and stir it about in the sauce till -quite hot. This, let me tell you, will not go a-begging for admirers. -It is a particularly savory tidbit, and on a cold night is its own -best recommendation. - - -Lobster Newberg - -I wonder if you will say a recipe for lobster _à la_ Newberg is -altogether too stale if I undertake to tell it to you. I know its age -just as well as you do, and I also know that I could weep bitterly, if -it would do any good, at some of the concoctions called by that name -that I have had put before me, and which, worse than all, I have been -expected to eat. So right here I shall put on record my way of -preparing that delicious dish, and if you don't care to read it, why -skip it, of course. Into the chafing dish put two ounces of butter and -let it melt; then put in the meat of a two-pound lobster cut into -dice-shaped pieces and let them cook till they are really fried a -bit. Then turn low the flame of the lamp while you pour in a little -less than a pint of cream in which has been beaten three eggs, -seasoned with salt and red pepper. Just as this is hot add a scant -wineglass of sherry and let it heat once more, regulating the flame -all the time so that it cannot boil. For if it does the jig is up, the -eggs will be sure to curdle, and you will wish to goodness you hadn't -undertaken it. Have little triangles of toasted bread on which to -serve the lobster, and if it turns out the success it should, your -reputation among your guests will be for all time established as a -hostess who knows her business from A to Z. - - -Chicken Livers with Olive Sauce - -If you will get some chicken livers you can prepare a very appetizing -dish with very little trouble. Melt an ounce of butter in the chafing -dish and in it put, say, eight or ten livers that have been salted -well and rolled in a little flour. Let them cook pretty fast for ten -minutes, or till you think they are done, then put with them half a -pint of hot water and a teaspoonful of any extract of beef, with what -salt and pepper your superior judgment deems suitable. When this is -hot turn in a gill of sherry, and a dozen olives pitted and -quartered. Just a dash of lemon juice and the deed is done, provided -you have ready some toast for the serving of the livers. - -If you haven't at the time of night when you will be serving these -dishes a fire over which you can toast the bread, you can have one of -the guests preparing the bread in a chafing dish. Cut the slices of -the size you like and fry them delicately in a very little butter and -they will go finely in this way. - - -Welsh Rabbit - -Because you may think I don't know how to make one if I say nothing, I -suppose I shall have to offer a word or so about Welsh rabbits. Melt -an ounce of butter in the chafing-dish and then stir in and let melt -slowly a pound of cheese cut up into very small pieces. Season this as -you go along with paprika, a little salt, and mustard as you think you -like it. When the cheese is quite melted pour in, very slowly, a -little beer or ale, about two gills in all. Then when it is well -blended with the cheese stir in a couple of eggs well beaten and serve -on crackers. Did you ever try making your rabbits with ginger ale? -Really they are good in that way, and it is very palatable to drink -when you are eating them. And cider is delicious served with rabbits, -also--the champagne cider. Try it some time. - - -Golden Buck - -For a golden buck, prepare the cheese as for a rabbit, but on each -plate when you are serving it place a poached egg. These must be -prepared in another dish while the rabbit is under process of -construction. So, you see, I wasn't so far off in my calculations, -rapid as they seemed to you at the time, when I said my little say -about seven chafing dishes. - - -Eggs Poached in Tomato - -Suppose you have on hand a pint of rich tomato sauce. Heat this in the -chafing-dish and poach in it two eggs. Lift them out and lay on a hot -dish while you poach two more. Continue in this way till you have -half-a-dozen eggs poached. Serve one or two as you like, on a slice of -toast or fried bread, pour some of the tomato sauce round, sprinkle -grated Parmesan cheese over each and send them around the table on -their mission. - - -Curried Eggs - -If you are fond of curry try some curried eggs. Melt in the -chafing-dish two ounces of butter, and fry in it two small onions, -sliced; take these out and stir in a dessertspoonful of curry powder -and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. When these are well mixed -add half a dozen well-beaten eggs. Cook quickly and serve. - - -Creamed Chicken - -Perhaps you have a pet recipe for creamed chicken, and I don't doubt -it is all such a recipe should be; but let me suggest that, instead of -putting chicken and cream and all the other things into the -chafing-dish at the same time, you melt the butter first and then stir -in the chicken and let it cook for two or three minutes before you put -in the cream, or béchamel, or whatever it is you use. The flavor of -the dish will be very much richer and more palatable to most persons. -For, between ourselves, I think that creamed chicken is apt to be -rather a flat and tasteless affair, and will stand quite a little -bracing up. - -I hope you won't want to spoil the taste of any of these dishes by -having sweets after them, in the way of fancy cakes, etc. If you do, -you may choose them for yourselves. I'll have none of them. - - - - -MARCH - - "_So comes a reckoning when the banquet's o'er,-- - The dreadful reckoning, and men smile no more._" - - -THERE couldn't be a better time than the present in which to have a -smoke-talk, mesdames. There, there, now, pray don't be alarmed; I've -no notion of passing round any of the popular brands of cigars. -Neither would I so much as offer you cigarettes, albeit the latest -scientific utterance has pronounced them harmless. - -No, our talk shall be of some of the smoked and salted viands that, -while they may not perhaps come under the head of delicacies or -indelicacies of the season, are decidedly appetizing, and quite worthy -of having considerable attention given to the best ways and means of -serving them. - - -Salt Fish with Cream - -And haven't you been saddened hundreds of times when reflecting upon -the disregard of details that makes of a dish of salt-fish and cream -nothing but a pasty and altogether horrid mess? But a dish of salted -cod becomes delicacy itself if the fish is shredded while raw, all -skin and bone removed, washed several times in cold water and cooked -in plenty of fresh water; then it should be drained and covered with -cream, which has been heated and thickened with an egg or two beaten -up well in a tablespoonful or so of cream; add a dash of cayenne, to -give it a zest, and you have prepared for breakfast or luncheon a -dainty that will quite justify you in fancying yourself for the rest -of the day. And that's a wonderfully comfortable state of mind in -which to find oneself. - - -Salt Fish with Brown Butter - -Perhaps, however, for a luncheon dish you would rather have the -codfish served with brown butter. In which case you flake and freshen -it as before, and cook in plenty of water. Take it up on a hot dish -and pour over it a sauce made of butter, in which you have fried -minced onion and a handful of chopped parsley till they are brown. And -you can vary this sauce infinitely: add a bay leaf or two, or a few -capers, or some chopped sweet red peppers, and get a new flavor with -each addition. - -The subject of codfish balls I won't take up here. I fear I might make -it too exhaustive. And, besides, every housekeeper seems to have a -chosen way for preparing them. - - -Fried Cods' Tongues - -I wish as much could be said about that too-little-appreciated genuine -delicacy--fresh cods' tongues. They are delicious when boiled till -tender, and then served with brown butter, as suggested above for -codfish. And they are just as good, and some think even better, if -they are dipped in milk, then rolled one by one in flour, and fried in -plenty of butter for about ten minutes. You can simply pour the butter -on them when serving, with a little chopped parsley scattered over -all, or you can put into the frying-pan, after taking the tongues out, -a gill or two of tomato sauce, and serve this separately in a -sauceboat, serving each tongue on a slice of toast. Usually it will be -found necessary to soak the salted tongues for twenty-four hours or -more in water, changing it once or twice, as seems necessary. - -To be sure there's considerable trouble and no small amount of care -involved in having these edibles, or any others, for that matter, -quite as one would like, but some old wiseacre has said that life's -cares are its comforts, and if one only has a firm belief, rooted and -grounded in past experience, in this bit of philosophy it's just as -easy to apply it to cooking as to painting. - - -Broiled Smoked Salmon - -And a little of this care used in the broiling of smoked salmon -redeems it from the charred and uninviting dish it too often makes. It -is best to cut the salmon into small strips, wrap each strip in a -piece of buttered paper, and then broil over a clear fire. When done -remove the paper, and serve the fish on a piping hot dish, at once. -And if you want a sauce for it make one by cooking a minced onion in a -gill of vinegar and twice as much water, adding, as the onion shows -signs of tenderness, two ounces of fresh butter, four finely chopped -hard-boiled egg yolks, and a little chopped parsley. - - -Boiled Salt Mackerel, with Horse-radish Sauce - -Of course you know how to cook salt mackerel--you could sue me for -libel if I said aught to the contrary. But do you, I wonder, ever try -preparing it in my favorite way? This is the manner of it: Soak the -mackerel for twelve hours, changing the water several times. Then boil -it in an abundance of water, in which there is a bay leaf, two or -three onions, some parsley and the juice of a lemon. The fish should -cook very slowly, and not be allowed to come to pieces. When they are -done, serve them on a folded napkin, with a sauce made by reducing a -pint of cream to one-half, adding to it an ounce of butter, and -thickening it with two egg yolks. Then add to it half its quantity of -grated horse-radish, heating it again, without boiling. In most cases -it is necessary to add salt to this sauce, but I prescribe no -quantity. I only advise being skittish about the amount when it is to -be used for a salt fish. If you are to have smoked mackerel, broil -instead of boiling it and serve with it the cream horse-radish sauce. - - -Smoked Herring Fried - -And then there are smoked and salted herring, that if cooked -judiciously make life at least a bit more comfortable. It is best to -soak them for five or six hours in water and then for two hours in -sweet, fresh milk, after which you can work out some wonderful dishes -with them. If they have been salted only, fry in butter and serve them -on potatoes mashed with cream. But if the herring are smoked as well -as salted, split them down the back and cook in enough milk to cover. -Cook till thoroughly done, and then serve on a very hot dish with -branches of parsley around, and a little sweet rich cream poured over -them. - - -Finnan Haddies with Cream - -But, to my thinking, the best of all the smoked and salted fish are -the finnan haddies. And one of the best ways of cooking them is as -per that last described for cooking herring. But the haddies are much -less salt, and require little, if any, soaking. Or, if you prefer, you -can put them in a buttered baking-pan, pour cream and bread crumbs -over them and brown in a hot oven. Give them a little more cream when -serving. And again after you and your household have partaken of this -dish and pronounced it good, hard to beat, etc., you will have -occasion to be pleased with yourself, which, being interpreted, means -of course being perfectly satisfied with all the world. - - * * * * * - -It is possible, nay, probable, that you, mesdames, with all the calls -that the Lenten season makes upon your spiritual selves, find little -time for ordering or arranging dinners; furthermore--and it's in no -way to your discredit--it may be that with so much of each day given -over to reflection and concentrated thought you experience a sort of -disinclination to give heed to things material. Therefore it behooves -me to be alive to my duty, which in the premises certainly seems to -prescribe that I shall think and plan a bit for you; and I herewith -submit, as the result of a goodly amount of cogitation on my part, a -menu which I hope will strike you as being a very good sort of -"working model," should you not care to follow it to the letter:-- - - Consommé maigre with asparagus points. - Lake trout with court bouillon. - Macaroni timbales with tomato sauce. - Casserole of fillets of sole. - Oyster soufflés. - Coffee cream glacée. Almond pudding. - -You see that such a menu provides a dinner perfectly within the rule -implied by "_diner maigre_," though it can in no sense be called a -fast-day dinner. In fact, the very phrase is a contradiction. If you -are fasting, you do not dine; you simply eat to live--a very different -thing. - -And now for particulars. No need to tell you how to make the soup; you -have stacks of cookery books that will give you the information -necessary for the making of a good clear consommé. As for the -asparagus points, it will be quite as well from all points of view to -buy the canned asparagus tips, and cook a little in salted water, -adding them to the soup about five minutes before it is served. - - -Boiled Lake Trout - -Perhaps your housekeepers' guides may not be sufficiently explicit in -regard to cooking the lake trout in the manner suggested, so I will -tell you in detail. In the first place, you take equal quantities of -white French wine--as inexpensive as you please--and water, one small -onion, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, etc., some peppercorns, and a -proper amount of salt. Let this boil for fifteen minutes, and you have -as good a court bouillon as one could wish. Into it put the trout, -tied into any shape you desire, and boil until tender; remove it, and -serve on a fish paper or napkin; garnish with fresh green parsley -sprays. For the sauce, you will melt some butter in a part of the -court bouillon, and serve separately. You should find good lake trout -in the market now, and at a price that doesn't confine them to the -list of luxuries. Aren't you glad? - - -Macaroni Timbales - -Have you any idea how many ways are known to expert cooks for -preparing macaroni? I haven't. But I should not be surprised to see -offered for sale any day a publication setting forth "One Thousand -Ways to Cook Macaroni," and I hope that macaroni timbales, in case -such an event comes to pass, will be given the place of honor. Try -making them in this way, and you will agree with me. Boil the macaroni -in plenty of salted water till it is tender, but not "mushy." Drain -off the water, and add, with all thoughts of economy thrown to the -winds, melted butter; stir it in well, and add a goodly sprinkling of -grated Parmesan cheese and cayenne pepper. Line a mould with the very -best puff-paste you know how to make, rolled as thinly as possible, -and put in the macaroni; cover with a round of the paste, lay a sheet -of buttered paper over the top, and bake in a hot oven for about -thirty minutes. Unmould on a hot dish, and pour round it some tomato -sauce made from the best recipe given in any of your gastronomical -literature. - - -Casserole of Fillets of Sole - -Then consult the aforesaid literature still further, and select -therefrom the most appetizing recipe for making a stuffing of -bread-crumbs, when you have it properly prepared spread with it some -fillets of sole, and tie them into shape with a little thread. Now put -into a casserole, or stewpan, three or four ounces of butter, two -minced onions, and the fish; let it fry for five or six minutes, then -add to it two or three gills of béchamel sauce (see cookery books -once more), a cupful of chopped mushrooms, and a claret-glass of -claret. Cover the pan closely, and cook in the oven for half an hour. -When finished, remove the strings from the fillets, and serve in a -deep dish with the liquor in which they were cooked poured over them. -And there you have a dish fit to tickle the palate of any king, or -knave, that ever lived. Later in the season, when lobsters are selling -at a more reasonable price, try substituting them for the soles, and -your delight will be increased several-fold. - - -Oyster Soufflés - -Very likely you know as much or more than I do about making oyster -soufflés, but, be that as it may, I have the floor, and am going to -tell you what I do know about them, for I may never get another -chance. My way is to blanch two dozen good oysters in their own -liquor, then cut them into dice, and while they are cooling prepare a -sauce of two ounces each of butter and flour, a dust of cayenne, a -little salt, the yolks of three eggs, and half a pint of rich milk; -when it is thick enough and smooth enough I put in the oysters and -their liquor, pour the mixture into little soufflé cases, sprinkle -each with browned bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake in a -moderate oven for eighteen minutes; then serve at once. How do you -think you would like to try that way of making them? - - -Coffee Cream Glacée - -Now, you will admit that I very seldom presume to tell you how to -prepare sweets, but to-day my story would be incomplete if I were to -omit the directions for making a coffee cream glacée. It is easy as -can be; that is, if you can freeze things. Beat the yolks of four eggs -in a basin with four ounces of powdered sugar, standing the basin in -another of hot water, so that they may get quite warm, but not hot; -add to them a gill of strong coffee, beat it all together till it is -light and creamy and quite cold. Then add to it a pint of stiffly -whipped cream, pour the mixture into a mould, and bury in ice and salt -for two hours. Unmould on the prettiest piece of lace paper you have -when serving. - - -Almond Pudding - -Perhaps I run the risk of overdoing the matter by telling you how to -make an almond pudding, but it does harmonize so delightfully with -coffee glacée that 'twould be actually sinful to leave you in -ignorance of how it is made. It's simple, too, simple as a b c. You -just beat up the yolks of five and the whites of three eggs with a -large tablespoonful of rose-water, and add gradually to it four ounces -of powdered sugar and four ounces of freshly ground almonds, mixed -with a few small whole ones. Beat this thoroughly for ten or fifteen -minutes, pour into a well-buttered pie-dish and bake. When -half-cooked, garnish with strips of candied orange peel and blanched -almonds. And if you have any of the pudding left, which is doubtful, -you will find that it makes an excellent five-o'clock tea cake, for it -is quite as good cold as hot. - -Now, have I not given you a good ground plan, so to speak, for Lenten -dinners? It is the easiest thing in the world to leave out a part of -it, or add to it, for that matter, for it is composed wholly of -neutral tints, you might say, and almost any viand under the sun will -dovetail with it, if you wish to elaborate it. - - * * * * * - -I really don't know the first thing about the dietetic properties of -eggs, for which ignorance I am truly grateful, because I have always -noticed that once a man or a woman gets where the healthfulness or -the hurtfulness of any edible becomes the first consideration all real -pleasure to be found in dining has for that man or woman lost half its -charm. - -Neither could I guess, though I had a dozen chances, whether the fact -that eggs form the backbone of so many meals during Lent has its -foundation in history, or some religious rite. And I am also content -to remain uninformed on this point. - -But I do know that at market these days the sign "strictly fresh eggs" -is the most noticeable feature on every hand; and I know, too, that -there are a good many housekeepers who fairly long to know of some way -in which to improve upon the neutral flavor of an egg so that it may -become dainty, savory or delicately sweet as the case may seem to -require. - - -Eggs Curdled in Cream - -To begin with the savory list: Some fine morning when you are to have -for breakfast just an appetizing bit of broiled salted herring, try -cooking some eggs in this way--Put half a pint of cream into a -saucepan and let it boil. Stir into it five well-beaten eggs, seasoned -with salt and pepper. Let this mixture curdle, then turn it out on to -a hot dish and brown it quickly with a salamander; and you'll be at a -loss to know whether it's the herring that makes the egg taste so -well, or if it's the egg that makes the herring so remarkably -palatable. - - -Eggs, Epicurean Style - -Another delicious way of serving eggs for breakfast is to have, as a -beginning, say one dozen eggs and boil them till hard; take off their -shells, cut them in halves and rub the yolks through a fine sieve; put -an ounce of butter and one cupful of cream into a saucepan, season it -with salt and white pepper and thicken with a very little flour. When -it is quite hot but not boiling stir into it half of the whites of the -eggs, chopped, and the yolks. Arrange the remainder of the whites on a -dish, pour the mixture over them, and serve piping hot. You see the -eggs can be boiled and prepared the day before, and there's very -little to be done to get them ready for breakfast. Now, should you -want to make this into a more savory dish, you could easily add a -little minced ham, the juice of an onion, or some minced olives and a -few mushrooms, and have by so doing a delectable luncheon dish that -would go admirably with, say, some cold sliced tongue or with pickled -lambs' tongues. - - -Baked Eggs - -A particularly savory dish of eggs is made by frying two small minced -onions in butter till they are brown; then mix with them a -dessertspoonful of vinegar, a very little salt, and some pepper. -Butter a dish, spread the onions over it, break over them half a dozen -eggs, and put into a hot oven. When the eggs are cooked sufficiently, -cover them with a layer of bread-crumbs that have been fried in -butter, and serve. The bread-crumbs must be hot, of course. Try this -some day at luncheon when you are having broiled pigs' feet and potato -croquettes. - - -Egg Toast with Cheese - -And if it doesn't turn out the success you hoped, the next day you -might take some very thin slices of bread, trim off the crusts, lay on -a well-buttered dish, and cover with very thin slices of cheese. Beat -up well enough eggs to cover the bread, season with salt and a little -cayenne pepper, and pour them over the slices. Put the dish in a -moderate oven and bake until the eggs are set. Serve while very hot in -the same dish. If you prefer, you may use in place of the sliced -cheese some grated Parmesan cheese sprinkled over the bread, and -sprinkle a little over the eggs too. - - -Eggs in Tomato Purée - -Eggs scrambled in tomato purée make a delectable dish for luncheon, or -for dinner as an entrée. Have half a pint of rich tomato purée, and -cook in it half-a-dozen well beaten eggs; pour the whole into a deep -dish, and serve with it some bread croutons. Some finely cut up chives -will at times be thought an improvement to this dish. - - -Scrambled Eggs with Truffles - -And there are scrambled eggs with truffles that are good enough for -any time or place. Cook four sliced truffles in a wineglass of Madeira -for about two minutes; then put in a tablespoonful of butter, and -season with salt and white pepper. Break eight eggs and without -beating stir them well with a wooden spoon in the wine for three -minutes, cooking quickly all the while. Serve in a hot dish. - - -Caviare Omelets - -If one is fond of caviare (and who isn't nowadays?), an omelet with -caviare is most tempting. Make an omelet of the desired number of -eggs, and just before folding over spread it with a layer of caviare -diluted with a little béchamel sauce. After the omelet is dished, -garnish with parsley. - - -Spanish Omelet - -You will find in your hunts for Spanish omelet recipes that they will -turn up as thick as bees in a hive, after which you will let the -different directions for this savory dish foment in your mind till you -get what seems to be the best from each and turn out one that is your -very own, and entitled to be known to your friends as "Spanish omelet -_à la_ Madame Featherstonaugh"--or whatever name has the honor to -belong to you. My recipe you shall have till you get one of your own, -however. To begin with, have a rich tomato purée; to this you add -chopped pimentos or sweet Spanish peppers _con amore_, then a bit of -fried chopped onion, a few mushrooms, also cooked, and diced cold -cooked tongue or ham, preferably tongue. Take any liberties with it -that you like, pray. Don't think you must follow it to the letter. I -rarely do, to be candid with you. I have used cold chicken, cold duck, -and also cold goose, when the larder has been bereft of ham or tongue; -and not one of my household dared to say anything shady about it. - - -Omelet with Chicken Liver - -Of course, every housekeeper has a chicken liver omelet recipe among -her belongings, and made in the most ordinary way they are pretty sure -to be worth the eating; but if the livers are cooked in a little -butter, and then a little Madeira is added to the butter, the omelet -is far and away ahead of those made by ordinary recipes, as you will -see by trying it. - - -Jelly Omelet - -When it comes to an omelet for dessert, nothing can be better than an -omelet stuffed with preserves or fresh fruit. If preserves are used, -there's a wide range from which to select, and any taste can be -satisfied. Fill it with currant jelly, or apricot or grapefruit -marmalade, or any other fruit that you like. In almost any case a -little grated lemon peel and a handful of chopped almonds will be an -improvement. After the omelet is dished it should always be sprinkled -with finely powdered sugar. - - -Strawberry Omelet - -You might in the way of fresh fruits use some of the strawberries that -are of respectable flavor and price now. Get a box some day of the -best-looking ones you can find, and sort them over. Save out about -half of them, the fairest ones in the lot, cut in halves, and put them -in a bowl with two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, a piece of orange -peel, and two teaspoonfuls of rum, and set them in a cool place. Press -the remainder of the strawberries through a fine sieve, and sweeten -well. Make an omelet of six eggs, and before folding over fill it with -the cut-up strawberries, without any of the liquid. Dish the omelet, -sprinkle with powdered sugar, and pour around it the juice of the -strawberries, to which has been added the liquid from the halved -strawberries. It's a delicate dish, indeed, and you will find that it -will be a favorite at any table. - - -Célestine Omelet - -If you have a recipe for Célestine omelets, small ones, of which you -are very much enamored, this paragraph will not interest you. But if -you are at odds with the one you have, glance through this. Make as -many small omelets as you think will be required, one egg to each, -with yolk and white beaten separately. Put them on a hot dish, cover -with a thin layer of peach marmalade, and on this sprinkle chopped -candied fruits with a few chopped almonds, and over all spread whipped -cream. Work at chain-lightning speed in preparing this after the -omelets are dished, and get to the table in even quicker time, if you -would know this dish in perfection. Though if anything happens to -cause you to slacken your pace a bit, it will be worth the having, -for it will bear shading down a trifle from the top-notch. Or, make -the eggs into one large omelet, and before folding it over fill with -the jam and fruits, and sprinkle the almonds and whipped cream over it -after it is dished. - - -Snow Eggs - -Then there's a dish called "Snow Eggs" that's just as inoffensive as -it sounds. You beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and then -drop them a spoonful at a time into boiling milk till they poach a -bit. Take them out, thicken the milk with the yolks, adding sugar and -any desired flavoring. Pour this over the poached whites, dish, and -sprinkle with chopped macaroons before serving. - - -Omelette Soufflée - -It wouldn't be fair to omit any mention of an omelette soufflée in a -chapter on eggs; so here it shall go, though for myself I don't care -for it. It has always seemed to me like a dessert to be served when a -dessert wasn't really needed or wanted, but because a dessert of some -kind must go down to make the luncheon or dinner complete. Separate, -then, the yolks and whites of five eggs. Beat the yolks and half a cup -of sugar together for ten minutes. Flavor with a little rose-water. -Then turn to the whites, and beat them to the stiffest kind of a -froth. Butter a soufflé dish, and pour the mixture into it. Bake for -twelve minutes, and send to table. The guests should always be waiting -for an omelette soufflée, mind. Never force the omelet to do the -waiting--it isn't giving it a fair chance. - - - - -APRIL - - "_The best doctors in the world are Doctor Diet, Doctor Quiet, - and Doctor Merryman._" - - -THE very first thing to be done on Easter morning is to get up in time -to see the sun dance; for, as you probably know, not a bit of good -luck will be yours for the year to come if laziness, or anything, in -fact, save cloudy skies, prevents your beholding this phenomenon. But -it is possible that you don't know that this means nothing less than -to be facing the east with eagle eye and steady nerve at a pretty -early hour. Rather rough, isn't it? How would it do, then, to sit up -all night in order to be on hand to witness the fancy steps of the god -of day? You could do that and then have a good long nap, after which -you might be refreshed by a breakfast of shad roes (they're about as -inexpensive now as they will be), broiled to a turn, with a little -melted butter and lemon juice, judiciously mixed, poured over them; -dainty, crisp lettuce hearts, salted a bit; graham bread, thinly -sliced, and toasted to that shade known the world over as "epicurean -brown;" and lastly, instead of coffee, a steaming, fragrant, -appetizing cup of English breakfast tea. My word for it, you will be -tempted to linger over this breakfast, but stern duty permits no such -loitering. No, indeed; you must be up and away, or how on earth are -you going to make certain comparisons that shall confirm you in your -belief that your new bonnet is nothing less than a dream? Dear knows, -I hope you won't see any headgear that will take the shine off your -own, for then you will be sure to go home out of sorts, and the -charming little dinner menu that I have compiled for your use and -behoof might as well be of corned beef and cabbage for all the -appreciation it will get from you. - - -Clam Cocktails - -But in case that everything does go smoothly, and nothing happens to -nick your peace of mind, could anything be more delectable than a -dinner which would unfold itself to your delighted palate in this -order? To begin with: Clam cocktails, made, of course, with the -little-neck variety; they should be put in half-dozen lots into small -glasses, and seasoned with lemon juice, tabasco, salt, and the tiniest -suspicion of onion juice--just enough, you understand, to cause one -to wonder if that delightful flavor is really onion. - -And then to follow up the good impression left by the clam cocktails, -have a soup of consommé of perfect flavor and delicacy--the sort, you -know, that doesn't jar with what has gone before or is to come. - -The "to come" in this case might be, say, of trout, broiled to a -nicety and served with tartar sauce. But if for financial reasons you -object to the trout, why, then you may get good salmon from the West, -or pompano, and bluefish of fairly good flavor. But whatever fish you -decide upon, have it broiled, so that you may serve it with some -delicious hothouse cucumbers. Quite a little fall in the price of -cucumbers you will see within the next two or three weeks. - - -Lamb Steak; Béarnaise Sauce - -And the price of spring lamb has dropped perceptibly too by this time. -Now, please, whichever part of the lamb you select, don't have it -roasted. Have it sliced for steaks, and broiled to the stage most in -favor in your family circle, then salted well, but buttered sparingly, -as you must--there is no use in trying to dodge the issue--serve a -Béarnaise sauce with lamb steak. Have lobster salad without the -lobster, omit the crabs from devilled crabs, if it pleases you, but -never under any circumstances serve a lamb steak without a Béarnaise -sauce. It would be barbarism--nothing short of it! And to make the -sauce? Well, put into a saucepan a gill of vinegar and water, equal -parts, half a teaspoonful of minced onion, and a few tarragon leaves. -Let this cook, tightly covered, till reduced one-half; then take it -off the fire, and when cold mix with it the well-beaten yolks of four -eggs; season with salt and mignonette, and return to the fire; add -slowly to it three ounces of melted butter, stirring continually till -it thickens to the consistency of mayonnaise. Then strain it through a -fine sieve, and add to it chopped tarragon, a teaspoonful, and the -same quantity of chopped parsley. - - -Potatoes Soufflées - -And there's just one way to cook potatoes so that they seem quite good -enough to accompany a lamb steak, and that way is called potatoes -soufflées. The potatoes should be trimmed to ovals two and a quarter -inches long by one and a quarter wide, and then sliced lengthwise, -having the slices half an inch in thickness. When they are sliced, put -them into ice-water to remain twenty-five minutes. Then have ready -two pans of frying fat, one just hot and the other piping hot. Into -the former put the potatoes, in a frying-basket, and let them cook -without browning till tender; take them out, place on a sieve to cool -and dry somewhat, and then plunge them into the pan containing the -piping hot fat; stir them about, and they will begin to souffler; then -they must be taken out, salted and served. - -Now, if anything happens to prevent this course from turning out the -howling success that I predict for it, I want you to go to my favorite -dining place the next time you are in New York and order "the same." -You will know then what these two dishes are in perfection. - -It may be that a salad of new beets would be quite the thing on this -occasion; if so, you will have no trouble in finding them in good -condition, and as sweet as a new beet should be. - -Here endeth my part of the lesson. - -Set your own pace for a dessert. - - * * * * * - -Although I am prepared to sit up nights to sympathize with any one who -is really deserving of having me share that emotion with her, I don't -have a particle of desire to weep with the woman who weeps because -visitors have dropped in on her suddenly and caught her with her -cupboard bare. In these days of canned things the woman whose larder -doesn't boast as a continuous performance at least half a dozen -varieties was never meant for a housekeeper. - -For my part, I should think I was remiss in the duties of a -housekeeper if I did not have half a dozen varieties of canned soup -alone from which to select in time of need. - - -Sardine Toast - -Start, then, we will say, an impromptu lunch with a soup canned by any -one of the sixteen firms, more or less, that so prepare them. Of -course, there will be sardines--the stand-by of all housekeepers; but -you will have sardine toast--a rarity with almost every one. Wipe the -skin off the sardines with a dry cloth. The toasted bread is free from -all crust, mind, and it is spread with butter mixed with lemon juice -and chopped parsley. The sardines are laid on it, and the whole -arrangement set in the oven to heat. - - -Anchovy Toast - -Just as tempting a bouchée is an anchovy toast. Chop the anchovies, -and add to them bits of parsley, a suspicion of onion juice, a few -drops of lemon juice, and some paprika. Spread this on toast which has -been buttered, and heat quickly in the oven. - - -Tunny-Fish - -Then, there's tunny-fish always to be depended upon to furnish an -impromptu dish that seems like one planned long before. Drain it from -the oil in which it is preserved. Lay it on a dish, sprinkle with -lemon juice, chopped parsley, and capers; and keep your eyes open for -the admiring glances your guests will be trying to hide from you when -they first taste of it. - -Then smoked, boneless herring, you know, are good almost any way; but -broiled till they curl up a bit over a hot fire, and sent to table -flanked by olives, water crackers, and a bottle or two of lager beer, -they are leaders. - -Of course, with two or three kinds of devilled meats in the house the -making of sandwiches, even at short notice, is just a pastime; and with -all the crackers now to be had it would be foolish to waste tears over -the absence of bread. In fact, the world, the market, and the grocery -store are filled to the brim with substitutes nowadays--substitutes that -make it easy to forget originals. - -Although 'tis by signs of promises soon to be richly fulfilled that a -market interests me chiefly at this season, there is no lack even -to-day of a good supply of edibles, both substantial and delicate, and -do I go a-marketing determined to buy everything on an economical -basis I find Dame Nature and the marketman in league to help me -furnish forth my table daintily and inexpensively. Or, if in a -reckless mood of extravagance I betake myself to the vendor of viands, -I find him and the dear old dame quite as helpful in carrying out my -plans. - -Naturally, in trips to market, my methodical mind leads me to inquire -first what is suitable for breakfast; what is best calculated to -minister to an appetite capricious in the fickle springtime. Numerous -answers are forthcoming to my inquiry, the first of which says shad -roes made into delicious croquettes with a garnishing of lettuce -hearts. Very good, I say, very appropriate, but what else is -there?--every one doesn't care for that dish. And then, taking the -matter into my own hands, as the marketman is perfectly willing that I -should, I peer around to see what is to be had, and make notes -mentally for future use. There are mackerel of finest flavor, which, -if broiled to a turn and having as an accompaniment crisp, fresh -radishes, are fit to put before a king. Another breakfast dish, which -is also quite good enough for any royal person, is of kidneys broiled -on skewers with alternate slices of bacon. A bit of parsley serves not -only to decorate this last dish, but forms a piquant relish for it, -and relishes for breakfast dishes are more of a necessity now than at -any other season. The orange juice which has proved so potent an -appetizer when the mercury ranges near to zero, fails to supply the -needed zest for a springtime morning meal, and we must have recourse -to a fresh green vegetable, in addition. - -From breakfast fare to luncheon dishes I turn my attention logically, -and learn that sweetbreads are particularly fine just now in whatever -way they are served, but in my opinion they are never quite so good as -when simmered gently in butter and served with cream sauce, to which -has been added a few fresh mushrooms. - -Spring chickens, tender and toothsome if broiled as they should be, -are worthy of an honored place at any luncheon, and the marketman -tells me those lately received are of excellent quality. - -That dainty of dainties, in the estimation of many people, frogs' -legs, if broiled or served with a cream sauce, appeals to the most -fastidious palate. And just now they are not only plentiful and in -fine condition, but are quite inexpensive. - -A dish which we cannot always obtain, and which is especially suitable -for a midday meal, is of the Taunton River alewives smoked; they -should be broiled, and there should be served with them, without fail, -a potato salad made from the Bermuda potatoes, which are exceptionally -desirable at this season. - -In the ordering of a dinner I have always maintained that though it -consists of only two courses, there is an opportunity for the exercise -of great discretion. A knowledge of the eternal fitness of things is -essential above all else in order to arrange a dinner at which the -courses shall not be at war with each other. A certain famous lawyer -remarked in my hearing not long ago that "he knew women who could play -whist and play it as it should be, and he knew women who could order a -dinner fit for the gods, but never had he known and never did he -expect to know, a woman who could do both." Perhaps he was right, but -I believe there are women in plenty who are quite capable of doing -both to perfection. - -At this season, with oysters almost out of the running, little-neck -clams may be depended upon to whet the appetite, while the soup which -follows must be at once delicate and yet so rich that the first -spoonful enchants. If the next course is to be of bluefish, or of -salmon, or of striped bass, all of which are in first-class condition -in this month, potatoes should be served in any desired shape if the -fish is to be boiled or braised; should it be broiled or fried, then -by all means let its accompaniment be cucumbers, which are plentiful, -and are sold at a comparatively low figure, by now. - -If you follow my advice you will avoid the heavy, clumsy, and -unimaginative joint. Decide rather upon ducklings to be roasted or -broiled, or upon squabs; or, if these are a thought too expensive, -choose fowl, which should be good and plentiful. Have it parboiled and -then fried Maryland style, or fricasseed, or boil it till quite -tender and serve with a caper sauce. - -As for vegetables, just now, and for several weeks to come, nothing -can be better than asparagus, which improves, and is less expensive -every day. Frequently I tire of it served on toast, in which case, -after boiling it, I moisten it with melted butter, sprinkle grated -Parmesan over the top and brown it in the oven. Or, if I wish to serve -it as a salad, I have it ice-cold and pour over it a dressing made of -oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, with a suspicion of French mustard -added. - -For salads, tomatoes, perhaps, have first choice, for they are really -very fine, coming in from the hothouses fresh every day. Watercress is -at its best estate, and whether it be served as a salad or taken -simply with a grain of salt, it is a delicacy worthy of honor. - -It is hardly possible to serve fruit out of place at dinner; before -the soup it is appetizing, as a compote for an entrée it is highly -delectable, while at dessert its presence is time-honored, and I would -that there were more varieties in market just now. However, the -strawberries and pineapples due are quite sufficient to console us -for the absence of other fruits. - -With that most delicious vegetable asparagus as good and as plenty as -it is bound to be for two months or so longer, it is but a waste of -time to search for any other vegetable to take its place. The truth -is, it hasn't a rival, and it never had one--even in Pliny's day, when -it grew wild. But gardeners in those days cultivated it just as they -do now, and it was no uncommon thing for them to produce stalks of -which it took but three to weigh a pound. If any gardeners do raise -such mammoth specimens in these days they keep very quiet about it. -But perhaps they don't taste any better than smaller ones. Why should -they? - -It will do to have asparagus boiled, just plainly boiled, two out of -every three times that you have it. But the third times are those of -which I would talk. - - -Asparagus Tips in Cream - -Suppose you cut off the tips into inch lengths, and boil very slowly -in salted water till tender. Then drain and let get perfectly cold, -after which you brown them a bit in butter in a frying pan. At the -first threat to become brown cover the asparagus with cream, heat well -and serve on toasted bread. - - -Asparagus with Savory Sauce - -If this doesn't satisfy you for a third try another way. Cut the -asparagus up just the same and boil with it a few new green peas and -some shredded lettuce. Season with pepper and salt, and flavor with a -few drops of onion juice. Add an ounce or two of melted butter to them -after draining off the water in which they were boiled, pour over them -half a pint of white sauce thickened, and then go ahead with the -serving on toast. - - -Baked Asparagus - -Then you can boil the asparagus tips and heap them mound shape in a -baking dish, pour through them a Hollandaise or a Béarnaise sauce, -cover the top with grated Parmesan cheese and brown in a hot oven. - - -Asparagus Salad - -But for asparagus salad be sure that after the tips are taken from the -boiling water they are plunged into ice water. Then cover, when -serving, with a French dressing in which has been stirred a little -French mustard. - - -Asparagus Salad 2 - -Or take some asparagus tips boiled and cooled and serve them on shaved -ice with a dressing of salt, lemon juice, and horse-radish, or -tabasco, and with a little bit of your most charming _persiflage_ you -will be able to persuade some of your followers that you have produced -an excellent substitute for little-neck clams. - - - - -MAY - - "_Some said 'John, print it,' others said, 'Not so,' - Some said 'It might do good,' others said 'No.'_" - - -IT'S the month when, by a logical amount of reasoning, the housekeeper -is persuaded that she can easily treat her family to roasted veal, at -least once a week, without any member of it entering a complaint. She -tries it. The second time serving it threatens to go a-begging, and -the third time there is so much left over that it can't be worked up -in seven days--when, by her reckoning, another knuckle is due. People -do tire of veal in short order, even those who have a liking for it, -for some reason or other. I am inclined to think that a good many -times the "tired feeling" sets in because of the way it is served--not -enough is done to prepare the palate for it. - - -Olives with Caviare - -Veal, then, more than any other roast, needs to have the way prepared -for it, very gingerly and very delicately. Let us discuss a way for -doing this. First, have pitted olives that you have filled with -caviare. Rest these olives on little rounds of toast that have been -spread with caviare, and sprinkled with lemon juice. - - -Purée of Peas and Spinach - -Now, for a soup. Soak over night a pint of green dried peas. Drain, -and cook in plenty of fresh water till perfectly tender. Then press -through a sieve. Have cooked, at the same time, a peck of spinach, and -press through a sieve also. Then put the two purées together, season -with salt and pepper; heat well, adding half a pint of milk. Just -before taking up, pour in a pint of cream, and serve with tiny squares -of fried bread in the tureen. Ever heard of this before? It's a soup -that is rich and delicate, but not so hearty that it does more than -whet the appetite for what is to follow. - - -Mayonnaise with Horse-Radish - -Shall we say salmon comes next? It's a thought high as yet, perhaps, -but you only need a little of it--a pound for four, where a roast is -to follow. But, to tell the truth, my insisting on your having it -comes almost wholly from a desire I have to tell you of a new sauce -for boiled or broiled salmon. It is nothing more than mayonnaise, a -half pint, with a heaping tablespoonful of horse-radish stirred -through it. Oh, you will like it fast enough! And you will like it -with cold salmon, just as well. - - -Duchesse Sauce - -By the time the fish is a thing of the past, you will all be ready for -the roasted veal. On this, of course, you have had tied thin slices of -salt pork before it is roasted. With it, will you have a duchesse -sauce? I think you will. For this you have a pint of good stock, -thickened a bit with butter braided with flour. After it is heated, -there is added to it a wineglass of any white wine. - - -Onion Sauce - -Or, if I have made a mistake, and you will have none of it, do let me -suggest an onion sauce. Peel and chop three onions, and let simmer in -plenty of butter, closely covered, for an hour. Let them brown, a -trifle, at the last, and add a tablespoonful of flour with pepper and -salt. Then add to them half a pint each of white stock and cream. Pour -this into the pan in which the veal was roasted, after it is taken -out, set the pan on top of the range and let boil gently for five -minutes. It's an improved sauce Soubise, you may say, if any of your -guests are led to ask the name of it. But, if they ask for directions -for making it, don't give them up. Advise, instead, buying this book -to learn, as you did, how to concoct such a bit of deliciousness. - -Really, I wouldn't have more than one vegetable with the veal, and -that asparagus, as it's the season for it. Or, have something else, if -you prefer, and have an asparagus salad. - - -Rhubarb Sherbet - -For the dessert, why not a rhubarb sherbet? Cut up two pounds of it, -and boil with a few drops of water and plenty of sugar, the rind of a -lemon, and a little liquid carmine to color it prettily. Let this get -cool; strain through a sieve, and add to it a pint of claret and two -tablespoonfuls of rum. Freeze, and have ready to decorate it, when -serving, some strips of candied ginger. You will find it all that you -have reason to think it should be, coming from this source. - - -Apricot Charlotte - -But, if you prefer an apricot charlotte, it shall be my pleasure to -tell you how to make one. Line the same charlotte mould you always use -with sponge drops, or fingers, carefully trimmed to fit. In fact, you -want to give them a regular tailor-made fit. Then fill with a pint of -preserved apricots, which have been stewed till tender enough to rub -through a sieve. Stir into it an ounce of gelatine, dissolved in a -little water. Let it get perfectly cool, and then whip into it a pint -of already whipped cream. Turn into the mould and set away to harden. -And you have the most ungrateful family in the neighborhood if they -don't count this dinner as a red-letter event in their lives. - - * * * * * - -Think you that upon one of these mornings, when the mercury shows a -sullen determination to do nothing but climb, climb, climb, you can -prepare a more tempting dish for breakfast than one of shrimps, which -have been boiled in fresh water, then salted and cooled, and finally -sent to table upon chopped ice? You will find them at the market for -the rest of this month, at least, in excellent condition, and at a -reasonable price. And should you elect to serve them according to the -foregoing suggestion, place near them on the table a dish of crisp, -fresh watercress, lightly piled, ministering thereby to the eye's -pleasure as well as to the appetite's desire. - - -Broiled Veal Cutlets - -But if, some fine morning, a breath of winter comes o'er the land, -_via_ an east wind, then you will, perhaps, crave food served hot, in -which case have veal cutlets (veal is in fine shape now); dip them in -melted butter and then broil over the coals; you will find this an -infinitely better way of cooking them than by frying, which so many -housekeepers consider the standard method. Or, if you do not care for -veal, try thin slices of bacon, broiled, and served on toasted graham -bread. As a fruit, for leading up to either of these dishes, I think -you will prefer pineapples, for they are of delicious quality now, and -sold at a price which also recommends them to your notice. Quite as -appetizing, however, you might find cherries, but, though they are of -fairly good flavor, they are a bit expensive, as they have a right to -be, coming from such a distance. - - -Herring Salad - -It is with intent and purpose that I do not suggest that everlasting -Americanism, beefsteak for breakfast; to my mind, it seems far more -suitable for the luncheon table, and just now, with mushrooms so -plenty, and as inexpensive as they ever are, a well-broiled, tender, -juicy sirloin steak, with a mushroom sauce, makes a dish fit for the -gods, and yet not a whit too good for human nature's daily food. Just -as good, in its way, for luncheon, is a herring salad, made of smoked -herring. Omit the use of caviare, which many cook-books recommend, for -you want nothing that will encroach upon the flavor of the herring, -but rather something which will act as its complement. For this -purpose use one-third cold sliced potatoes to two-thirds herring, a -plentiful sprinkling of capers, and the ordinary oil and vinegar -dressing, with the salt put in by a miserly hand. Another salad, -suitable for luncheon, especially if cold tongue is served, is made of -the little Bermuda onions, which are abundant now; they should be -minced finely and served ice-cold to win your highest admiration. - - -Baked Chicken Hash - -And now, just one more dish before leaving the luncheon table. Have -you ever prepared a baked-chicken hash? If not, allow me to suggest -that you chop quite finely the cold meat of chicken or fowl, season it -with salt and white pepper, moisten it with cream or with milk and -butter, scatter bread-crumbs over the top and brown in the oven, and -behold, you have one of the homeliest dishes in the annals of -housekeepers glorified to suit the palate of a veritable epicure. - -Whenever, at this season of the year, I go to market in search of -fish for the dinner-table, it is only by the exercise of great will -power that I am able to refrain from buying soft-shell crabs. They are -so delicious, whether broiled or fried, that it seems positively -wicked they should be so expensive. Still, the fish dealer assures me -that almost any day the price may "break" and, other fish being -plentiful, we can afford to wait patiently for the "drop." Delicious -trout, of either the lake or brook variety, are abundant, and in -whatever way they are served are one of the pleasures of the present -day. - -Although the month of roses is generally known as the month of salmon, -it is in first-class condition now, and obtainable at a fairly low -figure. No other fish is so capable of reserving; little scraps left -may be warmed in cream and served on toast for breakfast, made into a -salad for luncheon, or shaped into croquettes for dinner the following -day. - -In the vernacular of the marketman, "spring lamb is getting down on to -the earth." Which, being interpreted for ears polite, means that the -price is getting lower each week, but that the flavor remains -unsurpassed; in fact "none but itself can be its parallel." Bits of -lamb left from dinner may be prepared in the way suggested for -baked-chicken hash, and will, I am sure, merit your favor. - -When lamb is suggested, there follows, as a natural sequence, the -thought of green peas; and if the peas in market to-day were only as -good as they look, the thought would be a happy one. As matters stand, -however, for those who know not the delight of eating peas in less -than three hours from the time they are gathered from the vines, the -representatives of this vegetable to be had now will pass muster. For -myself, I prefer either cauliflower or egg plant, both of them plenty -and in good condition now. The former if boiled and served with a -white sauce, or baked with cheese is especially gratifying when served -with a roast of lamb, while the egg-plant will be quite as much of a -success if broiled, or stuffed and baked. - -Of course asparagus has attained perfection, and is so in evidence on -every hand that it is not necessary to mention it here. However, there -are many persons of the belief that it is impossible to have too much -of a good thing, and most decidedly asparagus is entitled to come -under that head. - - -Savory Tomato Soup - -Shall I tell you of three little dinners and how to make them grow? -Give ear, then, and you may hear. The first shall have a foundation of -tomato soup. Now please don't make a wry face and begin to say unkind -things about tomato soup having a past until you have heard me -through; for I want to tell you of an economical and really delicious -way of making this soup that is not known to every one. Just at this -season almost all housekeepers will be sure to have on hand two or -three kinds of cooked vegetables, little scraps of each I mean. Now, -suppose the list to comprise three new potatoes, boiled, half a cupful -of string beans and about the same quantity of green peas; to these, -or to any others which you may prefer to use, should be added two raw -onions finely minced and a handful of chopped parsley. Put them into a -saucepan with two ounces of butter, a sprinkling of pepper and salt, -and, after they have simmered for ten minutes, add a can of tomatoes. -Season then with a teaspoonful of whole allspice, a tablespoonful of -sugar, and more pepper and salt if need be, and cook slowly for half -an hour. At the end of that time strain through a fine hair sieve, -put back on the stove and thicken with a scant teaspoonful of -cornstarch mixed with a teaspoonful of melted butter. Have little -sippets of fried bread in the soup tureen, pour the soup over them and -serve. And there you have a soup possessed of all the flavors that -make a tomato soup worth the eating, while it has none of the -heaviness of soup made with a rich stock. - -And the next dish for dinner No. 1 shall be of dainty little lamb -chops broiled to a turn. Have in the centre of the platter a mound of -mashed potato, lean the chops against it, and serve in this way. - -With the chops serve string beans. Boil them till tender in salted -water, drain them and put into a saucepan with two ounces of butter -and two tablespoonfuls of cream to a quart of beans. Cook them for -three minutes and send to the table very hot. - - -Asparagus Salad - -It would be a sin and a shame to arrange a dinner at this time of year -without providing for the serving of asparagus. Even though the dinner -is to consist of one course only, that course should be of asparagus. -But in the dinner which we are now planning it is to make its -appearance at the third course as a salad. It must be boiled till -quite tender, then chilled for three or four hours on the ice, cut -into inch lengths, and served with a dressing of the yolks of three -hard-boiled eggs beaten up with three tablespoonfuls of oil, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt and the same -quantity of French mustard. - -The last course shall include strawberries served in some way. Have -them plain, with sugar and cream, and serve with them narrow strips of -delicate puff paste; or make little tartlets, and when they are done -lift the covers and put a teaspoonful of whipped cream into each. - -And the cost of dinner No. 1? Well, at the price of "comestible wares" -at this season, this dinner should not cost over one dollar for four -persons. And really it will not require very close figuring to bring -it within that sum. - - -Bisque of Clams - -But if that seems too small an amount to expend for a dinner intended -to give pleasure to four persons, there will be no trouble in planning -one to cost rather more. And for the first course let us have a bisque -of clams. Get a quart of clams and a small piece of veal, about a -pound of it. Cook the veal in a little more than a pint of water and -the liquor drained from the clams. Season with one onion, a sprig of -parsley, a bay leaf, salt, and white pepper. Cook very slowly for one -hour, then strain and again place it in the kettle; rub a couple of -tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour and add to the -soup when boiling. Chop up the clams very fine, and put them into the -soup; let it boil for five minutes and then add half a pint of cream. -Heat thoroughly, but don't let it boil after adding the cream, and -serve. And after you have partaken of this I'll warrant you will be -ready to declare that Grimod de la Reynière had this especial kind of -_potage_ in mind when he said: "Soup is not only the commencement of a -feast, but gives an idea of what is to follow." - - -Asparagus Tops with Cheese - -And its close follower in this instance should be some delicious -little ducklings roasted. With the ducklings have new potatoes, from -Bermuda or from the South, plainly boiled. And have, too, some -asparagus--asparagus tops with cheese. Cut the tender part of the -asparagus into inch lengths and cook in salted water till fairly -tender; then drain and toss it about over the fire in a frying-pan -with a little butter. Dress it on a vegetable dish, spread the -surface smoothly with butter into which has been kneaded an equal -quantity of grated Parmesan cheese and just a suspicion of cayenne -pepper. Brown as quickly as you can in a piping hot oven, and serve. - - -Lettuce Salad with Chives - -And now for the salad. Does one of lettuce strike you favorably? If -so, prepare it with a French dressing, as you always do, but after it -is dressed sprinkle over it all some finely chopped chives. My word -for it, you'll find this a great improvement over the ordinary lettuce -salad. - - -Frozen Strawberries - -A tempting dessert with which to wind up this dinner would be frozen -strawberries with whipped cream. Let me tell you how to prepare the -dish, and see what you think about it. Make a syrup of a third of a -pint of sugar and a pint of water. Into the syrup put a quart of fine -ripe strawberries and let boil for five minutes. Then freeze the -mixture. Whip half a pint of cream, work it into the strawberries, and -serve in as dainty a fashion as possible. - -And the amount of money required to furnish forth a table with dinner -No. 2? Not a cent over two dollars for four persons. - - -Asparagus Soup - -But, for fear that to many that may seem too small an amount for just -the kind of dinner they want to give, I will try again. Since we have -decided that asparagus must appear in some form at every dinner while -its season lasts, we will start dinner No. 3 with asparagus soup. This -is made by cooking the tender parts of the asparagus in salted water -for a few minutes. Before they get quite tender drain till dry and -cold. If there are two bunches of asparagus put them into a saucepan -with four ounces of butter, two finely chopped onions, a lump of -sugar, and a little white pepper. Moisten with a pint of white broth -and let cook for ten minutes. Then rub through a sieve, heat again and -serve. - - -Green Peas with Mint - -After the soup, crabs--soft-shell crabs dipped in beaten egg and -crumbs and fried. Serve nothing but tartar sauce with them. Then have -a couple of cunning little spring chickens broiled. Have new potatoes -chopped and baked in cream served with the chickens, and have also new -green peas. Try boiling with them a small bunch of mint and a small -onion, both of which are to be removed before the peas are served. You -will find that the peas have acquired a delightful flavor from their -contact with the other vegetables. Of course salt and pepper and -butter are to be added as when they are cooked in the ordinary way. - -For a salad have some hothouse tomatoes peeled and sliced; lay them on -a flat dish, and on each slice heap a little chopped lettuce mixed -with mayonnaise. - -Let us borrow the dessert from dinner No. 2 to put the finishing touch -to this last dinner. I don't know a better one, but if you do there's -nothing to prevent your using it. - -And, do your best, if you are to serve dinner No. 3 for four persons -you cannot make it cost over three dollars. - -Are you satisfied, now, that I know how to make dinners grow? - - - - -JUNE - - "_For her own breakfast she'll project a scheme, - Nor take her tea without a stratagem._" - - -Clams West Island Style - -"CLAMS are good and plentiful now," said the fish dealer one day, and -as I was in the frame of mind to take him at his word I hastily ran -over in my mind the various ways in which this delectable fish may be -prepared, the while I ordered from him the quantity I thought I could -use. It doesn't take very long to sum up the gastronomical -possibilities of the clam that are cherished in the minds of most -housekeepers, you will admit. But, with time and opportunity favoring, -there is room for expansion of ideas with regard to clams. For -instance, this is one way to expand: Poach, say, a pint of them in -their own liquor, then drain off the liquor, adding to the clams milk -thickened with egg yolks and seasoned with pepper and salt; forget -economy and put in the butter you know it requires to make the flavor -perfect, and on top of all have some tiny rice croquettes. You can't -know till you try it just what this dish may reveal served at -breakfast. But I will not spoil the story by telling you in advance. -If, however, it's for luncheon that you would be thinking of having -them cooked in this way, add the juice of an onion to them. - - -Clam and Lobster in Shells - -If you trust to me so far as to adopt the foregoing way of cooking -clams you certainly will try this next way of preparing them at the -slightest provocation. Have as many as you like and chop them. Add to -them an equal quantity of chopped boiled lobster. Sprinkle in some -parsley, also chopped, and butter to the amount above recommended. -Season with white pepper and salt, and with the mixture fill some of -the deepest clam shells, sprinkle bread crumbs over the top and brown -in a hot oven. This may be counted on at any time for a luncheon dish -when you are planning to go some persons who have entertained you at -least one better. - - -Stuffed Baked Cucumbers - -Before I forget it I am going to tell you of a dish that to my sorrow is -rather uncommon, even among those who think they dine well. It's nothing -less than a stuffed, baked cucumber--that is, those are the essentials -of the dish. The potentials are to be classified by you after you have -partaken of it. Cut the cucumbers in two lengthwise without peeling -them, scoop out all the seeds, and fill to heaping each half with a -highly seasoned mixture of bread crumbs; moisten with melted butter and -brown in a hot oven. Vary this stuffing at your own sweet will--add a -few chopped olives or some chopped pimientos--Spanish sweet peppers you -know--but have bread crumbs enough to insure the dish getting browned in -shape. - - -Fried Cucumbers - -If the idea of cooking cucumbers assimilates itself harmoniously with -your ideas of gastronomy you may not hesitate to try a dish of fried -cucumbers. And don't let any one infect your mind with the idea that -they are especially indigestible. They're not. Peel them first, then -slice them into quarter-inch slices, say, then dip in beaten egg, then -in crumbs, and then fry to a delicate brown in a little butter. Try -either way of cooking the cucumbers with a tender spring chicken -broiled. For if you are not deprived of your rights nowadays you -should be finding "broilers" in good condition and not too high in -price. You see of game there is little to be said in the Eastern -markets during this month; so if you are trying to do the handsome -thing in the bird line you've not much of a list from which to make a -selection. To be sure you have a right to inquire at market for brant -just now, come to think of it. You will be apt to find them, and in -good condition, too. Roasted shall we say? With them new potatoes of -course. Don't tell me you can't afford them, I know better. And you -can also afford to secure some new summer squash to go with the -roasted brant. Don't ask me where it comes from. I only know that in -every up-to-date market it is on sale. So are young, sweet little -carrots that appeal to you for a white cream sauce like that you serve -with cauliflower. - -By now you may reasonably be ordering blackberries if you are longing -for a change. But my advice is to stick to the strawberry while it -will stick to you. By the way, if you are to "do up" strawberries, get -the first "natives" that come to town. Get them, you know, before they -are soft from overripeness, and next winter when set on your table -just as they are, or with the syrup of them jellied with a bit of -gelatine, you will see the wisdom of being forehanded with them. - -"Give us breakfasts; tell us housekeepers what we can put before our -families for the first meal of the day in summer that shall drive away -the morning sulks." - -Thus did a matron young neither in years nor in experience beseech me -as I set out for market one day. And while I was parleying with the -marketman as to the ways and means and the whys and wherefores of -things edible that plaintive "Give us breakfasts" rang so insistently -in my ears that I could pay no attention to viands essentially -suitable for later meals, but fell to thinking and planning breakfasts -which should be antidotes--antidotes for that ill which more than any -other human ailment is strengthened by recognition, the "morning -sulks." - -And my first definite plan took shape in this wise: Cherries, for this -is the month _par excellence_ for that delicious fruit, cherries with -some green leaves piled upon cracked ice in such a manner that the -sight of them refreshes, while to taste of them leads one to think -"All's well with the world." And then, to follow, there must be -croquettes of fish; all kinds are so abundant now that it is only a -case of paying one's money and taking one's choice. But whatever fish -is chosen, the croquettes should be smaller than those for use at -luncheon or dinner, for the eye is repelled at breakfast-time by sight -of large portions. With croquettes the daintiest and lightest parsley -omelette imaginable should be served, it seems to me, and there you -have a simple breakfast, easy of accomplishment, but one sure to be -appreciated by King Sulks himself. - - -Iced Watermelon; Fried Chicken with Cream - -My second plan, when it assumes tangible shape, shall be like this: -Watermelons, not cut up into ungainly chunks with juice and seeds -playing at hide-and-seek in one's plate, but with the pretty pink -portion cut into two-inch cubes, say, with all the seeds removed, and -sent to table after being well cooled, fancifully piled on shaven ice. -If you don't mind a little fuss and bother, you may after it is cut up -sprinkle the melon well with powdered sugar, put it into the freezer -and frappé but not freeze it, and then send it to table. To the -palates of many of this day and generation watermelon well chilled -comes as a boon, for the best of men now and then are afflicted with a -thirst these warm mornings which nothing save ice-water seems to -quench, but the physicians and moralists have held forth at such -length on the subject that one feels like a guilty thing upon taking a -drink of cold water before breaking fast. Now you are going to ask -what will be quite good enough to follow watermelon, and for answer I -shall recommend chicken, or fowl, boiled the previous day, and cut -into neat pieces, then browned well in butter, with hot cream poured -over it just before it is sent to the table. If you want a delightful -adjunct for the chicken, let it be cold asparagus, with lemon juice -and salt sprinkled over it. If you have never partaken of cold -asparagus at breakfast, there is a new pleasure in store for you, for -good as this vegetable is hot at dinner or luncheon, it seems -especially apt when served cold in the morning. - -Quite as attractive, and simpler in preparation, perhaps, you will -find my third recipe for an antidote, it goes something like this: To -begin with, blackberries, growing better and more abundant every day; -to follow the blackberries smoked beef tossed in hot cream which has -been seasoned with cayenne pepper, and thickened a trifle with corn -starch, and--as a complement for the smoked beef you will desire -something sour--try watercress dressed with lemon juice and salt, -unless you are so enamored of tomatoes that you prefer them to any -other vegetable in the morning, now. - -My next (really I don't mean this to read like an enigma) idea if you -choose to put it into action will cause your breakfast table to answer -to this description: Raspberries, sweetened a bit, tossed in whipped -cream and put into paper cases which come on purpose for the carrying -out of dainty table schemes, and then chilled on the ice for at least -an hour before serving. Trouble? Oh, yes, there's some trouble -involved, but your reward will be swift and sure, my word for it. -Something exceptionally dainty and palate-appealing must follow the -raspberries so prepared, and how does the thought of veal, minced -finely and seasoned perfectly, with poached eggs on top, coincide with -your idea of the fitness of things? - - -Ham Toast - -Very soon we shall have currants in abundance, and it has always -seemed to me that when one is to have ham for breakfast they go -particularly well for a first course. And the ham is entitled to -different treatment in summer from that which it receives in the cold -weather. For instance, just now if you have slices of toast and -sprinkle lightly over them grated ham mixed with grated cheese, and -then put them in a hot oven till the cheese is dissolved, your family -will be your debtor to the extent of one new and distinct -gastronomical emotion. - - -Gooseberry Cream - -You will soon be able to get desirable gooseberries in the market, and -while the average housekeeper will be engaged in reckoning their -possibilities if "baked in a pie," you will, if you but follow my -advice, cook them in sugar till tender, strain through a sieve, cool -the purée, then boil it down and cool once more, that it may be in -readiness for the next morning's breakfast, served with whipped cream -flavored with lemon. You will find that this will pave the way -excellently for a fine bluefish, properly broiled, and flanked by a -tomato omelet. - -It is not in my province at present to prescribe the different cakes, -muffins, and rolls that should accompany the foregoing dishes, for -every cook-book sets forth an array of such recipes from which to -select one for every day in the year. Neither do I presume to suggest -to any woman in what she shall be clothed. No, when I go into the -subject of dress for the breakfast table it will be to exploit my -ideas upon the way that men should array themselves. - - * * * * * - -Whatever other faults the out-of-season strawberry may have it cannot -be said of it that it induces satiety. And I wonder if the season of -"natives" could be long enough to have that effect on the palate. -Probably. But this isn't the place to go into a discussion of that -side of the question. - - -Strawberry Fritters - -Serving strawberries is or should be an every-day occurrence while the -season lasts. I have told you in other places of two or three ways of -serving them that I hope you found worthy a place among your -collection of recipes for dainty dishes. But I believe I've said -nothing about strawberry fritters. And in case you have never tried -them let me suggest that you have them soon prepared in this way: Get -the very largest strawberries you can find. Take off the hulls and -cover them entirely with any sort of marmalade, preferably apricot, -then roll them in macaroon crumbs, dip them one at a time into the -lightest frying batter you know how to make and fry them in very hot -fat. Drain and roll them in powdered sugar before serving. A really -delicious dish you will find these fritters, quite good enough to be -served at dessert for the very best dinner you know how to arrange. - - -Strawberry Pudding - -It comes to pass sometimes, you know, that one will have on hand a -pint or so of strawberries that can hardly be called _passée_, still -they have lost their pristine freshness and show symptoms of becoming -soft. Well, the best way to serve them is to heat them through in a -little syrup, not letting them lose their shape or their color. Then -put them into a pudding dish and cover them with a half-inch layer of -bread-crumbs. Make a custard of four eggs and a quart of milk, -seasoning it with a little grated nutmeg, pour into the dish with the -berries and bread-crumbs and bake for half an hour. It may be served -either hot or cold. And you will have reason to be pleased with -yourself for having turned out an appetizing sweet, and one that will -help you to foster that pet belief of every housekeeper, namely, that -you are past mistress in the art of domestic economy. - - -Strawberry Jelly - -Another dainty sweet can be made by mashing a quart of strawberries -with half a pint or so of sugar, and then letting them stand for half -an hour while you are making a syrup of half a pint of sugar and the -same quantity of water. When this syrup has boiled twenty minutes mix -with it an ounce of gelatine dissolved in half a pint of water. Take -the syrup from the fire and strain the strawberries through a fine -sieve into it. Stand the bowl containing the mixture on the ice and -whip briskly for five minutes, then add the whipped whites of four -eggs and keep right on beating till it has the grace to thicken. Then -turn it into a number of small moulds or one large one. When it is to -be served unmould on the prettiest dish you own, sprinkle powdered -sugar over the top and pour a little whipped cream round in a fanciful -shape for a border. - - -Strawberry Salad - -If you are going to make a strawberry salad, and I think you will -after I tell you how, you should have the strawberries as fresh as -possible. Cut them in halves, and if they are the bouncer variety cut -them in quarters. Put them into a basin with as much sugar as you -think they will need; to one quart of berries add a wineglass of -brandy, a tablespoonful of strained lemon juice, and then pack in ice -till they are all but frozen. Dish up in a pile when serving and put a -border of whipped cream round the salad. - - -Pear Salad - -A salad of almost any kind of fruit makes an appetizing dish for -luncheon or for dinner. One of pears is really delicious if the pears -are peeled, cored, and cut in thin slices, laid in a dish, sprinkled -ever so lightly with powdered sugar, and have a few drops of brandy or -rum poured over them. Of course this salad, like all others made of -fruit, needs to be thoroughly chilled before it is served, to have its -appetizing qualities at their best. - - -Pineapple Salad - -If a pineapple salad seems to you a fitting dessert for the particular -luncheon you have in mind, it is easily prepared. Be sure that the -pineapples, two of them we'll say, are perfectly ripe; shred them -thoroughly and throw away the core. Put the shredded fruit into a deep -glass dish, and pour over it a good half-pint of powdered sugar mixed -with a tablespoon each of brandy and curaçoa. This salad should stand -for about three hours before serving, so that the sugar may become -quite dissolved. - - -Salad of Several Fruits - -And a salad of several kinds of fruits makes an altogether charming -dish. Try it some time. Have half a pound of perfectly ripe cherries, -remove the stalks and stones; have the same quantity of currants, but -have a part of them red and the other part white, just to make the -dish a bit prettier, and have a quarter of a pound each of raspberries -and strawberries. Sprinkle over the fruit plenty of powdered white -sugar and three tablespoons of brandy. Shake about lightly that the -sugar may dissolve before it is served. - - -Crystallized Raspberries - -Some day when you have been so fortunate as to get some particularly -large and good raspberries, fix them up in this way: Hull them, of -course, and then dip them one at a time in the beaten white of an egg -mixed with a tablespoonful of water. As you take the raspberries from -the egg roll them, one at a time, in powdered sugar and put at short -distances from each other on a sheet of white paper to become -perfectly dry, which will take two or three hours. When dry keep on -ice till served for dessert. And a dainty dessert you will find it, my -word for it. Strawberries and blackberries, also, may be treated in -the same way, but I doubt if they will find the favor that will be -shown the raspberries. - - -Raspberry Cream - -And a raspberry cream is pretty sure to be a favorite dish in almost -any company. It is very simple, too. Just press the raspberries -through a fine sieve to remove the seeds; mix in well half a pint of -cream and sufficient sugar to sweeten. Beat it well, and as fast as -froth rises skim it off and put it on a hair sieve. Put the cream that -is left in a glass dish, pile the whipped cream on the top, mounting -it as high as possible, and serve. - - -Banana Cream - -Another delicious fruit cream is made by pressing half a dozen bananas -through a fine hair sieve into a basin, mixing with the fruit one and -one-half pints of cream, flavored with vanilla, and then passing the -whole through a fine sieve. Freeze the cream a little--till it just -thickens--and then add to it a pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls of -sugar and a wineglassful of Madeira. Keep in the freezer for two or -three hours before serving. - - -Peach Cream - -This you will find is also a tempting way in which to make a peach -cream, but if the peaches are not perfectly ripe it will be a good -idea to stew them for two or three minutes in a little syrup. The -peaches, of course, will need more sugar than the bananas do, but no -hard and fast rule can be given for the amount--just sweeten them -according to your judgment. - -Have you noticed that with all I've had to say about strawberries -herein, not once have I quoted Dr. Boteler's remark concerning them? -And yet I've heard it said that a woman finds it as impossible to -refrain from mentioning the famous saying when writing about -strawberries, if only half a dozen lines, as does a man to omit all -mention of Izaak Walton when he has anything to say about going -a-fishing. - - - - -JULY - - "_Unlike my subject now shall be my song; - It shall be witty, and it shan't be long._" - - -IT was with the thought of Hortensia's garden party weighing somewhat -heavily on my mind that I made my customary tour "all on a market -day," for she had beseeched me with tears in her voice to plan for her -a list of appetizing dishes to put before her guests which should not -be so elaborate as though meant for a grand dinner, nor yet so simple -as if intended for the refreshment of a Sunday-school picnic. - -Hortensia would, I felt sure, see to it that the piazzas, grounds, and -tent-like buffet were so decorated and adorned that one would at once -conclude that Flora herself had taken a personal interest in the -appointments, and I firmly resolved that, come what would, my part of -the programme should be carried out in such a manner that reasonable -grounds should be furnished for the supposition that no less a person -than Epicurus had had a finger in the pie. Therefore it was with a -full appreciation of the responsibility I had assumed that I opened -negotiations with the marketman. - - -Roasted Doe Birds - -As all the world knows, a garden party wouldn't be much of an affair -without game, and fortunately for the hosts and hostesses at such -merrymakings, there are in market at this season now fine doe birds, -which may be seasoned with a little salt, a suspicion of Madeira, -roasted in a quick oven, and depended on to furnish delight, when -thoroughly cooled, to the most captious of guests. - - -Game Tarts - -Another delightful manner of serving game is in the form of -tarts--squab or pigeon tarts; line the tart moulds with paste, and -then fill with the breasts only of the birds, adding a few slices of -mushrooms and moistening with a liquor made by boiling the bones of -the birds in a little water well seasoned with salt, a bit of pepper, -and a spoonful or two of sherry. Cover the tarts with the paste, have -perfectly cold, and unmould before serving. - - -Turkey in Aspic - -Just now one may find tender and toothsome young turkeys in the market -stalls, waiting to do duty at any event to which they may be called, -and for the particular occasion in which we are interested at this -instant there can be no better way of serving them than by boiling -till tender and then cutting into small pieces, moulding them with the -help of aspic jelly into shapes so attractive that one longs to learn -if they can be quite as gratifying to the palate as to the eye. And, -by the way, what a godsend aspic jelly is in the preparation of dishes -to be served cold! - - -Beef Tongue - -Another cold dish which is looked upon as being a sort of commonplace -stand-by is of boiled tongue, but I have found that it is easily -raised to a level bordering on the ideal if prepared in this way: Boil -the beef tongue till tender in water which has been highly seasoned -with vegetables, herbs, and spice; remove the skin, brush the tongue -with beaten egg, strew it thickly with bread-crumbs, and bake for half -an hour in a hot oven, basting frequently with port wine. Let it get -perfectly cold before slicing and have the slices as thin as possible. - -Near to the tongue, as a relish for it, and indeed for all of the -foregoing dishes, one's sense of the fitness of things approves the -idea of having crisp, thin slices of toast, sprinkled with the finest -little bits of green peppers imaginable, and masked with a thin layer -of mayonnaise. - -In fact, one, if not the best, way to serve salads at an outdoor -festivity, is upon thin slices of toast of white or graham bread, as -one chooses. For instance, a lettuce and anchovy salad made by -shredding the lettuce and cutting the anchovies in two and dressing -with lemon juice and a dash of cayenne, with the yolks of hard-boiled -eggs finely minced, seems to call for just such a tiny bit of toast as -one gets in this way of serving, to carry out one's idea of perfection -in little things. - - -French Sandwiches - -And after I had decided that the salads at Hortensia's garden party -should be so served, it was quite natural that the idea of sandwiches -should suggest itself to my mind; but before the idea had time to -really assume a definite shape I hastily but conclusively rebelled -against the prospect of seeing those time-honored edibles set forth -for the delectation of Hortensia's guests in the guise of the common -or restaurant variety. And this is the way I overcame what bade fair -to be a troublesome difficulty: Rolls, deliciously fresh French rolls, -with a circular piece of the top crust removed and kept whole, while -all the soft part of the roll was scooped out to make room for a -filling of chicken, lobster, or sardines, after which the little cover -was put back into place, and the comfort and joy of the partaker was -an assured thing. - - -Musk Melon Jelly - -After the sandwich scheme was fully arranged, it seemed as though the -"substantials" were well looked out for, and that I must be giving a -thought to the fruits which were to make glad the senses of those -bidden to the feast. Not any great amount of deep thinking was -required to make a selection, however, for there was an abundance at -hand from which to choose; there were plums, juicy and sweet, of -richest hues--purple, red, and green, and others of the most tempting -golden color imaginable, and certainly no well-furnished table could -afford to be without either specimen. Grapes, too, there were in an -infinite variety, but for Hortensia's party I chose only black -Hamburgs and Muscats. Of course, I knew she must have peaches, and I -spent a weary hour in trying to find some that tasted as well as they -looked, but my labor was in vain. As a compensation for this -disappointment, however, I found cantaloupes possessing a flavor which -can only be expressed by the words "divinely perfect." And I found, -too, delicious little musk melons to be prepared in this way: Slice -the melon, removing both rind and seeds, put in a preserving pan with -a little sugar, and stew to a marmalade; rub it through a sieve, -dissolve in it a sufficient amount of gelatine, and when quite cool -mix with it stiffly whipped cream, flavored with a little essence or -liqueur, as one likes. - -Cakes and ices, of course, are as important to the great and -unqualified success of a garden party as are the guests, and of the -former I decided that the varieties known as "Madeleines" and "petits -fours" would be most acceptable to all concerned, while of the latter -there could be no question as to the desirability of moussé with -peaches, chocolat parfait, and milk sherbet. - -Of quite as much importance as either of the articles mentioned in the -foregoing paragraph are the bonbons, and the advice which I have -bestowed upon Hortensia in regard to them I repeat here for the -benefit of any who may care to follow it, namely: "Costly thy bonbons -as thy purse can buy." - - -Moss Rose - -For out-of-door feasting plenty of drinks should be provided; "cups," -whether of claret, hock, or champagne, should be made on the spot and -not prepared beforehand, as the taste of stale soda water is -absolutely objectionable. Cider, if iced, is really delicious, while -a drink which the English find highly refreshing is called "moss -rose," and is made of equal quantities of tea, coffee, and "cup," -either of the champagne or claret brand. - - * * * * * - -I have a story to tell you. It has nothing of mystery in it, neither -need it, necessarily, prove harrowing; it is far from being romantic, -and there isn't a glimmer of sentiment in it. It hasn't a moral; if it -had I shouldn't relate it. No, it is just true; that's the best of it -and it's the worst of it, too, as you will admit, because it isn't -without a parallel. - -It--my story--is of a very charming old farmhouse situated "near to -Nature's heart." - -At this farmhouse was gathered together a small company of people -known to the natives of that section of the country as "summer -boarders." To themselves this same company was known as a band of -"nature-worshippers." One day they were all seated in the shade on a -little knoll, each one trying to outdo the others in the matter of -rhapsodizing the "eternal hills," the "books to be found in brooks," -etc., when up spake one of their number who had hitherto been silent: -"Oh, I would give all the delights that this place possesses for one -hour in the company of an ice-chest stocked as it could be with the -good things in market now." - -Of course this was philistinism of the rankest sort, and it savored of -treason, too. But the offender held her head high and parried well, if -the truth must be told, the rebukes of her hearers. The mischief was -done, however; the seeds of discontent fell upon fertile ground, made -receptive by a long diet of corned beef, curd cheese and "plenty of -milk." - -The next morning every conveyance the farmer-landlord could muster was -pressed into service to take his guests to the station. Every one of -them had received a sudden call to Boston. But none confided to his or -her neighbor the exact nature of this post haste summons to the Hub, -and when the train pulled into the station they scattered in different -directions, hurriedly saying to each other: "See you on the 4.30 train -this afternoon; good-by." - -And sure enough they were all aboard the train as agreed, each of them -with an armful of bundles. Nobody volunteered any information as to -what his or her bundles contained, and nobody asked any questions. -They simply ignored the existence of them and talked of how good it -would seem to get back to Peaceful Valley once more, with its -quietness and vast opportunities for reflection. - -That night each of them had a private audience with the landlady and -the next day at dinner was seen the result of the trip to Boston and -of the said private audience. - -First of all was brought in some delicious Spanish mackerel, broiled -to a turn. These were furnished by Professor A., author of the -celebrated work "Does Angling Produce Insanity?" He said that of all -the fish in market these seemed to him just now the most desirable. - - -Oyster Plant with Cream - -With the fish were served some of the finest oyster plants that ever -found their way into the Boston market. They were cut in pieces, -boiled in salted water till tender, then drained and served with a -tablespoonful or so of melted butter and cream enough to cover them, -having just a dash of pepper in it. A simple way of preparing them and -yet quite good enough for anybody, as you will see upon trying it. My -word for it, the Peaceful Valley boarders thought it a dish fit for -the gods. - -After the mackerel had been discussed and despatched and Professor A. -had accepted with a great deal of grace the vote of thanks presented -to him, the game was brought in. This course was offered for the -delectation of his fellow-boarders by Professor B., author of "Birds I -Have Met." - -There were delicious chicken grouse that had cost the professor quite -a pretty penny, viz.: two dollars and a half the pair; and plover of -various kinds that were to be had for four dollars the dozen. - - -Grouse Pie - -And this is the way the grouse were cooked: After the feet, necks, and -pinions had been removed their bodies were divided into three pieces -and put in a stewpan with the pinions and a little chopped bacon; -after frying a bit some salt and pepper were introduced. Then were -added two tablespoonfuls of white wine for each bird; then the birds -were taken off and cooled; after which they were arranged with the -wine in a pie dish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters amongst them, -covered with the best pastry crust that the landlady knew how to make, -and it was pretty good, really. In fact the dish turned out a great -success, as the result of a good many conferences between the donator -of the birds and the cook. The Professor had bought, the day before, -the latest and best thing in the way of a cookery book, and after -carefully reading it had come to the conclusion that this recipe for -cooking grouse would be more easily mastered by the landlady than any -other. The beauty of a grouse pie, too, as everybody knows, lies in -its being just as good cold as it is hot. - - -Roasted Plover - -The plovers were dressed, and with a pinch of salt and a bit of pepper -put inside of them and the thinnest possible slice of fat salt pork -tied over their breasts, were roasted for about twelve minutes in a -hot oven. - -And with the game was served some of the choicest stalks of celery -that it has ever been the lot of mortal to enjoy at this time of year. - -As for the fruit that was donated for this special occasion you would -consider it a treat to hear the landlady tell of it, and of the -sensations she experienced at seeing such a variety when the "apples -on the Early Harvest tree on the south side of the orchard wall were -only just beginning to get mellow." - -There were plums of almost every color under the sun; there were -nectarines, the mere sight of which would make one's mouth to water; -there were delicious Delaware grapes and some little white grapes -called the Lady de Coverley, that come from California. They are just -as good, too, as one would expect from the name that has been given -them. There was a curiosity in the shape of a banana cantaloupe, and -there were all sorts of other melons, but the melon _par excellence_ -was what is known as the Montreal cantaloupe. They are raised on the -banks of the St. Lawrence River, and simply refuse to grow in any -other locality. Gardeners in other places have done everything to -induce it to become naturalized, but all to no purpose. The particular -specimen that found its way to the Peaceful Valley weighed just -twenty-one pounds, and cost the purchaser $2.50. But it wasn't -extravagance to buy twenty-one pounds of such deliciousness, even if -it had cost twice that sum. - -And what do you suppose these nature-worshippers did after partaking -of all the good things herein described and set forth? Well, they -went out and sat under the trees and began to talk of what Thoreau -said about huckleberries! - -I came away then. - - * * * * * - -As a refreshing _entr'acte_ let us dwell on the subject of ices. Let -us have something more than just the ordinary way of making every-day -routine ice creams. We will say "ices"--they mean unutterable, -indescribable things that tickle the palate and cool one's very -existence simultaneously. Though after all it may be well to talk a -minute of ice creams--beginning with generalities. The first of these -I have found is that the easiest and best ice cream is made by using -one-third rich cream to two-thirds milk with sugar as desired. No eggs -and no cooking. If it is frozen smoothly it is perfect. This, however, -is but the working plan--the flavoring and the moulding are to be -arranged to suit yourself. - -However, if cream is not available, then eggs and milk in the -proportion of eight eggs to one quart of milk may be used. This -requires cooking like an ordinary custard. Sugar to your taste, but -flour or cornstarch are to be left out, by all means. - -If you are using fresh fruits, such as pineapple, peaches, -strawberries and the like they should not be cooked but be added to -the cream after it is frozen and just before it is packed. Candied -fruit, fruit used for frozen puddings and the like, is usually soaked -in brandy or rum before adding to the cream. At least, that's the sort -of treatment it gets from me. - - -Coffee Ice Cream - -Just a word about coffee ice cream. For I don't think you will find -this recipe anywhere else. And it's a pity you shouldn't know of it. -Have then one pint of very strong coffee, a gill of brandy, one quart -of cream and three pints of rich milk. Then freeze and be thankful -whenever a hot day makes it possible for you to serve your coffee at -dinner in this way. - - -Milk Sherbet - -A great many people have a preference for sherbets and of these I have -some charming things to say, for I appreciate a sherbet myself. -There's a milk sherbet that suits me down to the ground. It is made of -two quarts of milk, four cups of sugar, and the juice of six lemons. -Also the whites whipped well of two or three or more eggs as you feel -inclined to use them. Surely the lemons will curdle the milk. But -don't let that disturb you. Put it in the freezer and go ahead. It -will come out as right as right can be. - - -Strawberry Sherbet - -For a strawberry sherbet made in this way I have a fondness that I am -not ashamed to acknowledge anywhere: Sprinkle over one quart of -strawberries half a pound of sugar; let it stand three hours, then -strain through a coarse cloth, squeezing hard. To this juice add three -pints of water, as much sugar as it seems to you to need, the juice of -a lemon and freeze. - - -Pineapple Sherbet - -A pineapple sherbet is made in the same way, though not as much sugar -will be required probably. - - -Peach Sherbet - -And for a peach sherbet follow the same directions, adding a -wineglassful of brandy before freezing. - - -Currant Sherbet - -A currant sherbet is a deliciously refreshing thing to have either in -anticipation or in reality on a hot day. Boil a quart of water and a -pound of sugar to a syrup. Skim and stir with it a pint of fresh -currant juice which has been heated with a little sugar. Let this cool -thoroughly, then add the beaten whites of four eggs and freeze. For -myself, I am quite through shying when anyone says artificial coloring -in food--I have found the vegetable colorings as innocuous as so much -water, and worth their weight in gold in cases like the present, -namely the coloring of this currant sherbet. The only drawback about -which is that of itself it will not be pretty to the eye--therefore -hesitate not, but in with a few drops of carmine coloring. - - -Champagne Sherbet - -A champagne ice isn't such a high-roller refreshment as it sounds. To -begin with it's a rank solecism to freeze any but the most inexpensive -of champagnes, and then you don't require many other good things for -your ice--the champagne is enough in itself. You just make a very -strong and sweet lemonade--a quart of it and half freeze it; then pour -in the champagne and wholly freeze the mixture. Get the champagne into -the freezer as soon as you can after it is opened before its volatile -gas escapes. If you prefer a more hilarious refreshment just keep on -with your use of intoxicants by adding after the champagne a -wineglassful of brandy. Also, if you like, you may add the beaten -whites of eggs, _ad libitum_. - - -Champagne with Strawberries - -While we are on the subject of frozen champagne and the entering wedge -has done its work let me speak a good word for champagne with -strawberries. Freeze together a quart of champagne and a pint of sugar -syrup. Just at the last add one pint of strawberries which have been -halved and quartered and marinaded in a little brandy and sugar for -about fifteen minutes. Cherries used in this way will make you ready -to declare that till you tried it you didn't know how to live. - - -Claret Sherbet - -A claret sherbet is even better than it sounds if you make it in this -way: Rub the peel of two oranges off with plenty of loaf sugar and -then make a syrup of this sugar and a pint of water. When cool, stir -in the juice of three oranges, a quart of claret, a tablespoonful of -brandy and the whites of four eggs whipped to a stiff froth and freeze -slowly. Sometimes there is used in this recipe the zest of lemon peel -instead of oranges and then there is used some orange marmalade, -heated and strained of course. Or any jelly which you may fancy goes -in very harmoniously with this concoction. - - -Kirsch Sherbet - -A kirsch sherbet is a delicacy that doesn't put itself in the way of -ordinary mortals every day in the week. That's why its welcome is a -soulful one when it does appear. You have a pint of chablis and a pint -of any preferred fruit syrup, which you freeze. Then at the last there -is added to it half a pint of kirschenwasser. - -By the way, before I forget it, you may treat watermelon with the -frozen champagne exactly as prescribed hereinbefore for strawberries -and champagne. - -All these are but a few of the ices familiar to expert cooks nowadays. -But each one herein given is capable of so many variations that I am -leaving that part of it to you. Do you know that I am saddened more -and more every day as I contemplate the power that lies in suggestion -and the stupidity of people who will not avail themselves of it? But -this is not perhaps the sort of talk you look for in a book that has -to do with the material things of life. Very well, we will cut it off. - - - - -AUGUST - - "_Ah, you flavor everything; you are the vanilla of society._" - - -ABOUT the only time when I am really anxious to have the right to vote -is when some legislation tending toward the preservation of the -lobster is on the docket. Then, if I had the opportunity, I should not -only vote with both hands for a "close season" on that delectable -shellfish, but I should lecture as long as I could get any one to -listen to me, either on Boston Common or in Faneuil Hall, in an -endeavor to induce others, men and women, to vote with me. I believe I -should even resort to bribery where I thought it would do--and I am a -fair judge of individuals who don't require their "inducements" to be -too heavily coated with sugar--in order to put it through. - -As matters are now there are almost as many ways for preparing lobster -as there are lobsters in the sea, and in order to try them all you -would better be about it before the supply is utterly exhausted, or -some one in authority calls "time." - - -Devilled Lobster - -For devilling lobsters I have a budget of recipes, but this seems to -be about the best one in the lot: Split the lobster, after it is -boiled, in two lengthwise, and put it into a baking-pan; season with -salt and cayenne, and pour over it plenty of melted butter, and bake -in a hot oven for five minutes. Just before serving spread over it a -sauce of melted butter thickened with flour and seasoned with a few -drops of lemon juice, a sprinkling of mustard, and a little Madeira or -sherry wine. - - -Lobster Toast - -Lest you should get so attached to this devilled lobster of mine, I -hasten to put here an alluring sounding recipe, hoping you may be -induced to try it before forming the devilled lobster habit. First fry -a sliced onion in enough butter so that there will be no browning of -it. Take out the onion in two or three minutes, as it is only intended -to flavor the butter, and then fry in this butter the diced meat of -two boiled lobsters for two or three minutes. Sprinkle in some chopped -parsley and salt and pepper as you like it. Pour over the lobster a -pint of white wine, and as soon as this gets to the boiling point take -out the lobster and put it on slices of toast. Into the boiling wine -put all the butter from the lobsters, just a few chopped mushrooms, -if they are at hand, and pour over the slices of lobster toast. Have -this just as hot as possible when sending to table, and you will find -the alluringness of this dish is not in the telling of it only. - - -Lobster Tartlet - -A lobster tartlet is a gastronomical dream, let me tell you, while we -are on the subject, and after you try it you will be telling the same -story. You should have tartlet moulds made of the very best puff -paste, which you fill with diced cold boiled lobster, chopped cooked -mushrooms, a caper or two, and a bit of mayonnaise. - - -Lobster à la Newberg - -Lobster _à la_ Newberg is such a staple dish that it seems almost like -plagiarizing something or somebody to put it on record here. However, -as no list of lobster dishes is correct without it, here it shall go. -Cut the boiled lobster into two-inch pieces and fry over a -tremendously hot fire, either in a chafing dish or on a range, for -just two or three seconds; lessen the heat then, or pull the -frying-pan into cooler quarters, while you cover the lobster with -thick, rich cream. Let this come to a threat to boil, then stir in say -three egg yolks to a pint of cream, the yolks stirred in a little -cream, till it thickens a bit. Just a dash of sherry, say two -tablespoonfuls, and there you are. - - -Stuffed Lobster Tails - -For stuffing lobster tails cut the meat of the lobsters up rather -finely, and add to it half its quantity of mushrooms. Fry in butter a -bit, dilute with a little cream, season highly with cayenne and salt -and fill the half tails with the mixture. Coat with bread crumbs that -have been stirred about in melted butter, and brown in a hot oven. - - -Lobster Croquettes - -The making of lobster croquettes is a pleasant sort of business, for -there is so much anticipation of good to come stirred in with it. Cut -the meat--don't chop it--rather finely: moisten with a bit of cream -and the butter from the lobster. Mould and roll in crumbs and fry a -golden brown. Don't go to seasoning these croquettes very highly or -the delicacy will depart from them. But you know that. And do you know -that you may add to almost any sauce used for boiled or baked fish -some diced cooked lobster to the benefit of everything and everybody -concerned? Well, you may--my word for it. - -If I were to tack a sub-title to this screed it might very properly -be: "Women's Luncheons," inasmuch as it was in aid of one of these -mild social dissipations that I last perambulated through the markets. -Very properly also I might characterize the trip as a "peripatetic -wandering through the market-place," for all the while I was in quest -of edibles suitable to put before a purely feminine company I was -talking to myself about the probable origin of this form of -hospitality. When, where, and by whom it was invented? My own -conjecture as to its inception finally took this course: Algernon was -in the habit of attending a great many goings-on to which women were -never bidden. And Araminta frequently discussed with him the calls -thus made upon his time. Whereupon it came to pass that after one -particularly interesting debate on the subject, which debate was -brought to an end by the sharp, quick closing of the street door, -Araminta had an idea. An idea which she called an inspiration, nothing -less, and it had for its starting-point a luncheon, a dainty, gay -little affair, at which no black coat should be allowed to intrude. -And the _pièce de résistance_ of the meal should be a sweet called -"revenge." Oh, yes indeed, not only would her guests applaud her -originality, but the hearts of the absent males would be torn to -tatters at her assumption of independence. And doubtless Part One of -the programme was carried out to the letter, but, between you and me, -I don't believe Algernon ever lost a wink of sleep over it. In fact, -when he settled the bill I have good reasons for mistrusting that he -said something about the "game being jolly well worth the candle." - -But to-day the women's luncheon is an institution, and a very chic and -dainty diversion into the bargain. And there are those who make it -their business to tell how a woman should be arrayed at such a -festivity, but that is out of my province. If, however, you would know -how the menu should read at this time of year, allow me:-- - - Cantaloupe. - Bouillon in cups. - Lobster patties. - Lamb cutlets with mushrooms. - String beans fried in butter. - Broiled quails. - Tomatoes stuffed with celery and mayonnaise. - Wine ice cream. Grapes. Coffee. - -I almost said oysters at the beginning of the menu, but oysters we -shall have with us for several months to come, while cantaloupes are -beginning to say it's about time they were going. As yet, however, -they are just as delicious and no more expensive than they have been -at any time through the season. - -Now as for bouillon. I get it canned, and think myself very fortunate -in being able to do so. But you may prefer to make your own, and if so -you probably have an always reliable recipe. _Mes congratulations._ - - -Lobster Patties - -But if you have a score of recipes for making lobster patties, I -honestly believe you will follow the one I am pleased to give you -herein. I take myself very seriously, you see. Well, prepare some of -the very best puff paste that you know how to make. Roll it out on a -floured table; with a fluted cutter cut out some rounds, put them on a -baking dish, set them on ice for fifteen minutes, then brush them over -with beaten egg. With a plain tin cutter of about half the size of the -fluted cover cut through a third of each of the rounds, dipping the -cutter in warm water every time; this will form the cover when baked. -Bake in a quick oven. When cooked lift off the cover and scoop out a -little of the soft paste inside. For the lobster filling take the -meat from a boiled lobster, cut it into very small pieces and fry a -little in butter, in a very little butter, till they just threaten to -brown. Then pour over the lobster bits enough thick cream to barely -cover them; heat this, but don't let it boil. Thicken it with two or -more beaten eggs, according to the quantity of lobster. Season -delicately with salt and a suspicion of cayenne. Have the patties hot -and the lobster hot, and arrange them on a hot dish for serving. For -dear knows that a cold or a lukewarm patty is an abomination. - - -Lamb Cutlets with Mushrooms - -After the patties the lamb cutlets. And, mind you, they are to be -fried, not broiled. Season them well with salt and pepper, and fry in -a little butter over a brisk fire till browned on both sides. Then -drain off the butter and baste them with just a little Madeira wine. -Dress the cutlets in a circle and pour into the centre a Madeira sauce -with mushrooms. This you make by heating half a pint of any good -stock, adding to it a gill of Madeira, thickening it with a little -flour braided with butter, and adding at the last a dozen mushrooms -that have been minced and fried moderately in a little butter. You -may use sherry instead of the Madeira for basting the cutlets and for -the sauce if you like. And also you may use the tinned instead of -fresh mushrooms if you prefer to do so. For fresh mushrooms may not be -any too plenty just now, and consequently are a thought expensive. -Still, they're quite worth the price. - -And now that the "law's off" probably hereabouts on quail, you will -find them in pretty good condition. Indeed, they are so good that I -hope you will just have them broiled after salting a bit, and pin your -faith to their own delicious flavor to give delight to your guests. -Have them served on toast, if you must, that has been slightly -buttered, but forget to serve any jelly with them. - -I've told you elsewhere all about tomatoes stuffed with celery and -mayonnaise, so I won't go into particulars this time. But tomatoes -will not be with us at the prices for which we can now get them a -great while longer, and celery is remarkably good in quality and low -in price. So there's a good broad hint for you. - - -Wine Ice Cream - -That wine ice cream which I have recommended is truly a delightful -confection. You have a pint of moderately rich cream, and you add to -it the yolks of five eggs and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and then -you heat it just a trifle. Next you stir in a gill of white wine, and -then you freeze it. When quite frozen stir into it some chopped -preserved cherries. Then turn the cream into a mould packed in ice to -set till time for serving, when it is to be turned out on a cold dish. -Doesn't that sound as if it would be worth a trial? - -You see I've simply said grapes in the menu because, as far as that -fruit is concerned just now, it is a case of paying your money and -taking your choice. - -And what will the ladies have to drink? Suppose we say a sip of sherry -with the bouillon and a bottle of pretty good Rhine wine to be brought -in with the cutlets. And it doesn't seem to me that it would be -overdoing the matter to have a cordial finale--say crème yvette, or -crème de cacao à la vanille. - -Of course, I will tell you the approximate cost of such a luncheon. -With good management it can be served, inclusive of the wines, for -twelve dollars for a dozen persons. And that is not bad, now, is it? - -Didn't you just enjoy that cooling little _entr'acte_ we had in July? -I did. Let's have another. We will not have anything sweet in this, -however, we will have it cold and savory. Doesn't that hit you -favorably? There are plenty of cold and dainty savories that may come -to table as your chief dish at luncheon or at dinner or as an entrée -only, at the latter meal, according to the degree with which you -manage to put on style. - - -Cold Chicken Cream - -There's chicken cream, for instance, made from a cold boiled or -roasted--well, bird. I don't know whether it's chicken or fowl. -Perhaps you paid for chicken and got fowl. Perhaps you paid for fowl -and wheedled the provisioner into giving you chicken. But we will say -chicken, anyway. Pick, then, all the flesh from the chicken, mince and -then pound it. Now add to it half a pint of cream stiffly whipped and -half a pint of just liquid aspic jelly. Season with salt and white -pepper and any other condiment if you like. Then have one large or -several small moulds and line them with aspic jelly and fill with the -chicken cream. Let set till cold and stiff and then unmould on slices -of very thin fried bread. Chop parsley and sprinkle over the creams -when unmoulded. - - -Chicken Cream with Tomato - -Another way would be to line the moulds with liquid aspic and a -little tomato sauce. When this sets fill with the chicken cream as -before. If you like the cream may be omitted from the chicken and when -it is unmoulded it may be covered with a French dressing or with -mayonnaise. - -Any remains of cold meat can be chopped finely, mixed with shredded -lettuce or watercress or parsley, capers, stoned olives, a truffle or -two and mayonnaise, with enough liquid aspic to stiffen it and moulded -in any way. - -These do make delicious presentations of old subjects--just a little -labor and a little inventive painstaking and you have accomplished -wonders. There are so many garnishes that may be used with these cold -things to make them more of a delight that it is impossible to go -through the list. Sliced tomatoes or cucumbers or some cold cooked -vegetable with a French dressing--any quantity of them you see once -you begin to cast about for them. - -No one knows better than I do that to make the conventional aspic -jelly is a labor that involves terrible risks as regards the breaking -of the commandment concerning profanity. I don't mind telling you that -I found it was having such a degenerating effect on my whole moral -nature that I hit upon using just the best gelatine I can buy--this is -not the place to name it, however--and dissolving it in a clear -stock--white or brown as the case demands. Try it in making these -aspic things. - - -Cold Cutlets in Jelly - -You know, of course, that cold cutlets are the most impossible -left-over thing with which the housekeeper has to deal. But prepare -some savory jelly with stock and tomato sauce and coat these left-over -cutlets with it some day and have them for luncheon. You will confess -that you have learned something worth knowing. - -Then there are numberless kinds of fish, almost any kind in fact that -doesn't run to bone, that will flake well; dip the pieces in a jelly -of this kind diluted with any kind of sauce--Hollandaise, vinaigrette, -tomato, and so on to the end of the list. Now, mind, when I say coat -these viands with this jelly I don't mean for you to give them a -regular ulster for a coat--but a little thin diaphanous jacket, -suitable for hot weather, you understand. - -When you can use cream in the jellies, either whipped or straight, -the daintiness of them is increased by just so much. - -There are some kinds of game--dark game especially--that you may slice -and coat with this jelly using currant jelly with it also and get some -combinations that will drive your friends to despair. - -Bear in mind that these jellied things must be kept on ice till served -and the plates on which they are served must also be ice-cold. It does -seem too bad for me to have to burden my soul with such instructions -for you--they should be needless. But when good fortune takes me to -luncheon in a crack hotel and I get my salad on a hot plate, or a hot -plate set before me for the serving of it, I am forced to the -conclusion that the mental lightweights are still in evidence and -there's no knowing but what some of them in a moment of lucidity may -become the owner of this book. Therefore I go into tiresome details, -occasionally. - - - - -SEPTEMBER - - "_But the fruit that falls without shaking - Indeed is too mellow for me._" - - -THERE are persons, as some of us can testify, who appear to be -horrified if a Manhattan cocktail is mentioned in the most casual -manner, and who are warranted to shy if they but get a whiff of a -Martini, but give them a chance to partake of an oyster cocktail and -you have added a substantial item to their sum of worldly pleasure. - -Almost everybody likes an oyster cocktail when it is judiciously -mixed, but folk of the ilk above referred to do seem to have a -peculiar fondness for it. Now, is it because a course of total -abstinence has rendered their palates extremely sensitive to highly -seasoned impressions, or is it that the name has a witchery that -beguiles them into thinking that they are tasting a forbidden thing -without sacrificing a principle? I don't know. You tell. - - -Oyster Cocktail - -And tell me, too, if this is the way you set about preparing one of -these palate-ticklers. Half a dozen little oysters dropped into a -glass, with their juice, a little lemon juice, four miserly drops of -Tabasco sauce, half a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a -dessertspoonful of tomato ketchup, and several grains of salt. Or do -you substitute horse-radish for the Tabasco? They tell me it's -frequently done, but for myself I prefer the Tabasco. It is a vexed -question, anyway, this matter of what shall be put on a raw oyster to -make it more palatable; the real dyed-in-the-wool epicurean vows that -it is nothing short of barbarism to use more than the tiniest pinch of -salt, while many a discriminating gourmet declares that the more you -do for an oyster the more it does for you. So there you are. - - -Baked Oysters - -But epicureans and laymen alike are agreed on one point, and that is -the way to bake oysters so that they are worthy of a place on any -table. Put into a small lined stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter -and one teacupful of cream, stirring it well over a quick fire till -hot. Add a wineglass of sherry, a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, and -a skimpy sprinkling of cayenne and grated lemon peel. Stir over the -fire till it bubbles once. Then pour half of the mixture into a baking -dish. Lay the oysters on it, besprinkle them with a scanty covering -of bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, with salt and pepper. Pour -the remainder of the cream over all and brown to a good color. - -Once one gets in the way of baking oysters as herein prescribed, one's -recipe for scalloped oysters, no matter how true and tried, will be -lost sight of. - - -Oyster Stew with Cream - -And the same fate will likely befall one's rule for making an oyster -stew, provided one adopts this suggestion for preparing oysters with -cream. In the first place there should be put into a saucepan a pint -of cream with a tiny piece of onion and a little mace tied up in a -muslin bag. When the cream boils thicken it with a tablespoonful of -flour mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Heat a quart of oysters, -with their liquor and sufficient salt. Then drain and put them into a -dish which is to be sent to table; pour the cream over them, removing -the onion and mace. With the dish serve toasted bread or biscuit. - - -Devilled Fried Oysters - -Undoubtedly all your friends are ready to take oath that you do have -at your table the very best fried oysters they ever tasted. But the -next time that you regale them with the dish, let the oysters be -devilled and then fried. Wipe the oysters perfectly dry and lay them -on a flat dish. Have a goodly supply of butter at just the melting -point, mix with it a little salt, a suspicion of cayenne, and a -certainty of lemon juice; pour this over the oysters and leave them in -it for at least ten minutes. Then roll them in a paper of cracker -crumbs or sifted bread-crumbs; dip them into beaten egg, then into the -crumbs again, and fry in boiling lard. - - -Stuffed Fried Oysters - -Or you can make a dish of fried oysters even more elaborate if you -will chop six ounces of the white meat of any fowl with one ounce of -fat salt pork, pound it in a mortar till your stock of patience -threatens to strike, then chop a few truffles to the size of peas, and -add them with a little white pepper to the chopped meat. Have four -dozen oysters wiped dry, and with a sharp knife make an opening in the -side of each one; fill the holes with the mixture. Dip the oysters in -crumbs, then in egg, again in the crumbs, and fry. - - -Oysters, Celery Roast - -Now see to it that your guests don't exhaust their pet adjectives on -either of these dishes. They will need at least a good round dozen of -superlatives after an experience with a celery roast of oysters. And -this is the way the story goes: Have ready some dainty slices of -bread, toasted, with the crusts removed. Wipe dry and broil some of -the smallest oysters you can get; broil till they begin to shrivel all -round, then put them on the toast. Sprinkle a little salt over them; -cover them with some finely chopped celery. Salt the celery a bit -also. Have ready cream heated, but not boiled, and pour it over the -whole. Serve it as hot as possible, and rejoice in the fact that you -have demonstrated how divine a thing an oyster may be made. - - -Oyster Pie - -It's a thousand pities that everybody doesn't know how to make good -puff paste, for without that knowledge it is impossible to make a good -oyster pie; but in case you are an adept at puff paste making, just -try concocting one some fine day. Line a pie dish with the paste and -fill it with uncooked rice; butter the paste that covers the edge of -the dish and lay a cover of puff paste over the pie; press the edges -together a bit and trim them neatly. Meanwhile prepare a quart of -oysters by draining them from their liquor and chopping them fine. Mix -a teaspoonful of cornstarch in a very little cold milk, and pour over -slowly half a pint of boiling milk or cream; when it is thick and -smooth add to it an ounce of butter. Season the oysters with salt and -pepper, and stir them into the mixture; simmer for five minutes. When -the pie-crust is done remove it from the oven, take off the top crust, -turn out all the rice and fill the dish with the oysters; put on the -cover again, and set in the oven to get thoroughly hot. - -They do say the recollection of an oyster pie so made is one of the -sweetest echoes to start when memory plays a tune on the heart, even -though one lives to be as old as Methuselah. - - -Pickled Oysters - -And now let me tell you of a way to prepare oysters so that they may -come under the head of stand-bys, so dear to every housekeeper. Take -two quarts of oysters and put them into a porcelain-lined saucepan -with their own liquor strained, half a grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of -salt, a little cayenne, and half a pint of strong vinegar. Then into a -muslin bag put half a teaspoonful of cloves, two blades of mace, a -teaspoonful of allspice, and two bay leaves; put this in with the -oysters. Let them cook very slowly, stirring all the while with a -wooden spoon. As soon as they come to a boil pour them into an -earthenware jar. When thoroughly cold they are ready to serve; if they -are well covered in a cool place they can easily be kept for a week or -even longer. - - * * * * * - -Of late years, when the subject of home-made preserves and pickles has -been referred to in my hearing, I have been wont to assume a very -superior and quite top-lofty air, and to remark in a know-it-all tone -of voice: "Oh, life's too short for me to bother with anything like -that; give me the fruits and vegetables and all other edibles that one -can buy preserved in tin or glass the year round; they're better than -home-made nine times out of ten, they cost no more in the end, and -there's slight necessity for guesswork when you are to open a can as -to the condition of its contents." Sometimes, if I had a very -tractable audience, this would end all discussion for the time being. -At others it would fairly set the advocates of domestic preserving by -their ears, and then you may be sure they defended their cause in -good earnest. But they never induced me to go in for anything of the -sort. Still, I now have on hand a very fair array of jars and bottles -and tumblers filled with jellies and jams and pickles, and they are -home-made, and they are old-fashioned and I am proud of them. And I'll -tell you how it happened. Out in the country, three weeks or so ago, I -was passing a farmhouse where the door opening into the kitchen stood -wide open, and through that open door came a fragrant breath that -called to mind numberless sweet woodsy smells. There was in it a -suggestion of sweet fern, a reminder of bayberry, a hint of sassafras -and a distinct likeness of grapevine blossoms. And this divine odor -was conjured up, I learned, by the stewing of grapes--wild grapes, of -course; the cultivated varieties being quite out of it when it comes -to preserving. That settled it. Within twenty-four hours from that -time there was issuing from my kitchen an odor of wild grapes -a-stewing. - - -Grape Jam - -To go into particulars, I was making grape jam. I weighed the grapes, -and to every pound I allowed three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Then -I squeezed the pulp out of the skins, putting the pulp in one bowl -and the skins in another. The sugar with a quarter of its quantity of -water was boiled in a preserving kettle till it was quite clear. Then -was added to it the pulp of the grapes which were boiled ever so -slowly for twenty minutes--when they were rubbed through a hair sieve -and put back on the stove, with the skins added to them. Then they -were boiled until the skins filled and looked good and plump. And when -they were quite cooled I put them into jars covered tightly to keep -out the air. Next winter I shall depend upon this jam to help me out -at many a luncheon with hot buttered toast or with waffles. And I've a -strong notion that it won't play me false. - - -Quince Marmalade - -You know how one word leads to another. Well, I find that one preserve -leads to another just as surely. After making the grape jam I was -determined to try my hand at quinces--at quince marmalade. And it -turned out such a success that I offer the recipe for your use if you -like to try it. Peel and cut into thin slices four pounds of quinces, -put them into a preserving kettle, with half their quantity of peeled -and sliced sweet apples, two quarts of water and the juice of a -lemon. Cover the kettle and let the contents boil quickly till -softened; then put in three pounds of crushed sugar loaf, and stir -over the fire while it boils slowly for twenty minutes. Take the -kettle from the fire, pour the marmalade into jars, and when it is -cool tie brandied papers over the tops. I shall find many uses for -this sweet, I fancy, and some day when I am quite put to it to know -what to have for dessert, I shall just have the simplest sort of a -bread pudding, and for a sauce some of this quince marmalade. - - -Quince Jelly - -And having made the marmalade, I find that no reasonable excuse exists -for not making quince jelly, because the parings can be used along -with more of the fruit. Core the whole fruit and put this with the -parings into a stewpan with just as much water as will cover them; -stew them gently till they are tender, but not red. Strain the juice -from the quinces without pressing them, measure it, and for each -cupful allow an equal quantity of crushed loaf sugar. Pour the juice -into a preserving pan and boil it for twenty minutes, then add the -sugar and boil until reduced to the consistency of jelly, stirring it -well all the time. Strain through a jelly bag and pour into small -jelly tumblers. And this you know is going to be not only a toothsome -bit, but if I put it into a pretty and suitable dish and set it in -just the right place on my luncheon or dinner table, it will be a -thing of beauty. - - -Plum Jam - -I'm feeling rather proud, too, of my success with plum jam. It really -strikes me as being delicious, and from the favored few who have been -allowed to "taste" it, I have heard very flattering things. So you -shall receive this recipe also. Have ready say twelve pounds of large -ripe plums peeled and divided into halves; crack their stones, blanch -the kernels and pound them in a mortar. Put the parings and cracked -stones into a pan with three quarts of water. Boil this until it is -reduced one-half, and then strain it through a fine wire sieve. Put -the fruit into a preserving pan with the strained liquor and pounded -kernels and twelve pounds of crushed loaf sugar. Cook over a slow fire -until it is reduced to a stiff jam, then turn it into jars and let it -stand till quite cold, sift into each jar a layer of powdered sugar, -cover with rounds of paper dipped in brandy, tie securely and put -away. Some foggy morning spread a little of this jam on some toasted -muffins for breakfast, have some English breakfast tea, and play you -are in "Lunnun." - - -Brandied Plums - -Really, you know, I shouldn't feel that I had done the right thing by -you if, after recommending that jams be covered by brandied papers I -should omit to say something of plums preserved in brandy. They make a -dainty tidbit, serve them when you will--morning, noon, or night. You -don't want to use plums that are any more than ripe; in fact, if -they're not much more than half-ripe it will be quite as well. Say you -have eight pounds of them; prick them all over and put over the fire -in cold water. As soon as the water boils and the fruit rises to the -surface take out with a skimmer and lay them in a pan of ice water. -Then make a clear syrup of two pounds of loaf sugar and a pint of -water. Put in the plums and let them boil up just once; and let them -stand in the syrup over night. The next day take them out of the -syrup, boil this once, put in the plums and let them boil just once -and let them stand over night once more in the syrup. Repeat this -operation the next day and the following day, then drain the plums -and put them into bottles. Boil the syrup till it will almost candy, -and when quite cold add to it three-fourths of its own quantity of the -best brandy you feel that you can afford, mix thoroughly with the -syrup, strain it and pour over the plums. Cork the bottles securely. - - -Brandied Peaches - -But if it's peaches that you want to see in brandy, you go about it in -this way: Split the peaches in halves and boil them in a syrup such as -is used for the plums. Boil them two minutes only, then take them out -and remove their skins, put them back in the syrup to simmer for five -minutes; take the pan off and leave the peaches in it till the next -day. Then drain and arrange them carefully in jars. Boil the syrup -down and mix with it an equal quantity of white brandy and when quite -cold pour it over the peaches. Cover the jars tightly. And it's not -for me to tell you when to use them,--because the using of brandied -peaches soon becomes a fixed habit, and it's pretty hard to be able to -tell when not to use them. - - * * * * * - - -Apples in Vanilla Syrup - -Why is it that housekeepers, the land over, with excellent reputations -as "good managers," see in an apple only three possibilities, to wit: -apple pie, apple sauce and baked apples, when by the aid of a -vegetable spoon, such as is used for preparing Parisienne potatoes, -the apples may be scooped out into balls, cooked in a syrup flavored -with vanilla, served hot with a sprinkling of finely chopped -pistachios over all, and so served be worthy a place on the table of -the veriest gourmet? Hardly a whit more trouble involved, you see, or -expense, for that matter, than in the preparation of "apple sauce," -and yet how much more appetizing and wholly satisfactory! Again, if -you want to idealize baked apples, have them peeled and cored, then -boil in a flavored syrup till tender, but firm, and with sugar and -burnt almond scattered over them set in oven to acquire a delicate -brown. Garnish when serving with bits of marmalade or jelly. - - -Fried Apples - -The frying of apples successfully is a ticklish matter, it must be -admitted, but if the fruit is perfectly sound when peeled, cored, and -quartered, the fat piping hot, with only a few pieces dropped in at a -time, if, as I say, all these conditions prevail and your fried apples -be not a success, then rest assured there is some witchcraft at work -and you are in no wise to blame. The pity will be none the less, -however, for nothing so complements delicious little pork chops for a -luncheon dish as apples so prepared. And pork chops, by the way, are -quite to be desired these cool autumn days. - - -Apple Salad - -Nothing can exceed the joy-giving properties of an apple salad if it -be rightly concocted. For myself I prefer that there shall be a -judicious mixture of celery with the apple, that the pepper, salt, and -oil be added with a sparing hand, and that without fail lemon juice -shall be used in place of vinegar. It hardly seems necessary to say, -and yet one never knows just what is the proper stopping place in -giving advice, that a steel knife must not be allowed to touch the -apples, else what might have been and should be a thing of beauty is a -damaging blight to an otherwise perfectly appointed table. This kind -of salad is in its rightful place when accompanying any variety of -black duck, and just now wild ducks are of prime flavor. The marketmen -know this, but I find that not many of them know why these birds are -to be in their best estate for the next two months, when the reason -as explained to me by sportsmen is both sound and plausible, namely, -that now the birds are getting their feed where it is the sweetest and -best, along the shores of fresh ponds, but later when Jack Frost shall -have done his perfect work they must hie them to the salt marshes for -sustenance, and very soon thereafter the fact of their changed diet is -made manifest to those who dine from them. - - -Pears in Vanilla Syrup - -One can hardly talk of ways and means for treating apples and leave -unsaid one or two directions for serving pears so that they shall be -quite good enough to do duty upon any occasion. Have you ever tried -peeling them, splitting them in two lengthwise, scooping out the core, -cooking till tender in a syrup strongly flavored with vanilla, and -then draining them, filling the hollows left by removing the cores -with powdered macaroons? If you have, then you know how to complete -the pretty task; if not, then I will tell you that after the macaroons -have been added the two parts of a pear must be put together, the -pears laid on their side alternately with tiny rice croquettes which -have been coated with apricot marmalade or any preferred jam. You may -take the syrup in which the pears were boiled and adding to it a -little whipped cream pour it over the whole. My word for it, if the -early part of your feast has consisted of such delicacies as -nightingales' tongues and plovers' eggs, pears so prepared will seem a -fitting dessert, but if, as is more probable, you have dined from a -perfectly broiled chicken (and they were never better and less -expensive than now), you will find this dish of pears quite the -crowning beauty of your dinner that it deserves to be. - - -Stuffed Stewed Pears - -And while we are on the subject of cooking pears I will tell you of -another way in which I have always seen them find favor. After they -are cooked and the core scooped out I fill them with a mixture of -several kinds of fruit, finely chopped, laying them on a shallow dish -of rice and cream, pouring syrup over them. - - -Pears Stewed in Claret - -Now for another way of cooking pears as they should be, to be "not -like other folks'" pears: let me suggest that you get inexpensive, oh -very inexpensive claret in which to stew pears the next time you see -fit to have them. Stew them till tender, then take them out and add to -the claret what sugar you think is needed to have it sweet enough -when it is boiled down to about one-half the original quantity. Pour -over the pears and let cool before serving. Sublimate this idea, if -you see fit, by sprinkling in chopped almonds or chopped pistachios or -any other little pleasantry that occurs to your inventive -genius,--that is, if you've an inventive genius that is to be trusted. - - * * * * * - - -Fried Chicken, Italian Style - -Suppose you find, on one of your trips to market this month, as you -probably will, that poultry is very low in price, won't you give this -suggestion a trial? Cut a chicken up as for a ragout, and boil it in -as little water as will cover it, seasoning the water with a small -onion, salt, white pepper, and a gill of sherry wine. When the chicken -is almost tender enough, drain it from the liquor and let it get -perfectly cold. Meanwhile have in a stewpan half a gill of olive oil, -with a pinch of minced onion and a little salt and pepper. When this -is quite hot and the chicken quite cold, cook the chicken in it to a -delicate brown. Dish the chicken when it is browned evenly, and pour -over it a sauce made by adding a gill of the stock in which it was -boiled to the oil in the stewpan, thickening it all with the yolks of -two eggs. This makes a most delicious dish and is well worth the -trial. The frying in oil gives it its distinctive flavor, and makes it -very different from fowl fried in butter, which is in France always -called poulet sautée, to mark the difference. - - -With Tomatoes - -And this same dish can be varied a little by using tomatoes with the -chicken. After the chicken has been fried in the oil, lay it on fried -tomatoes, and then pour the sauce over all. Have the tomatoes as large -as possible and not too ripe; slice them, dust them with salt and -pepper, and fry very, very slowly in a little oil till they are -cooked; but don't let the slices get out of shape. - - -Roast Duck with Orange Sauce; Broiled Devilled Tomatoes - -If you think you would prefer a roast of poultry, do try ducks to be -had now. Roast them in any way that experience has taught you is the -best, but when it comes to making the sauce for them, let me have a -word to say. Mince two or three slices of bacon and a small onion and -fry together for five minutes; add to them the juice of an orange and -a wineglassful of port wine, the drippings from the pan in which the -ducks were roasted, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. It's an ideal -September dish, that's what it is. And you might accompany it or -follow it with another that is particularly seasonable, namely, -broiled devilled tomatoes. First you mash the yolks of three -hard-boiled eggs, then you mix with them a saltspoonful of salt, one -teaspoonful each of powdered sugar and mustard, and as much cayenne as -your taste calls for; then stir in three ounces of melted butter, and -when all the ingredients are well blended add three tablespoonfuls of -vinegar. At this stage put the mixture over the fire to reach the -boiling point, and stir in two well-beaten eggs. When it has thickened -a bit stand in hot water on the stove to keep warm while you give a -little attention to the tomatoes. These must be ripe and firm. Cut -them in half-inch slices, broil over a clear fire, place on a hot -dish, pour the sauce over them, and there you are. This makes a really -appetizing breakfast dish as well as a savory dinner course. Try it -some morning, having with it crisp broiled bacon and some dainty rice -muffins, and you will find yourself considerably above par with your -household for the rest of that day at least. - - -Broiled Tomatoes on Toast - -And in a day or so follow up the good impression by having at -luncheon tomatoes prepared in this way: Cut some round slices of bread -and fry them delicately in butter till they are brown. Slice firm, -ripe tomatoes to match the sizes of the bread slices; broil the -tomatoes just a wee bit, and then lay a slice on each piece of the -French bread. Season them with pepper and salt, scatter grated -Parmesan cheese over them, spread them with a layer of fine -bread-crumbs moistened with melted butter. Brown in a hot oven and -serve piping hot. And if the man o' the house is the right sort you -will get a vote of thanks in the shape of a big bunch of the earliest -and brightest chrysanthemums to be found in town. - - -Celery and Apple Salad - -Have you ever made a salad of apples and celery? Use sour apples cut -into dice-shaped pieces, and cut the celery into half-inch bits. -Arrange in the salad dish in this way: A layer of the apple, then a -sprinkling of capers; next a layer of the celery, and over this three -or four olives cut in thin slices, and so on till the dish is full. -Make a dressing of a saltspoonful of salt, a good dash of cayenne -pepper, the juice of a lemon, and six tablespoonfuls of olive oil. -Pour this over the apples and celery about ten minutes before serving. -Be sure that you let the youngsters have all of this salad that they -want, for it will be hard to concoct a more wholesome and healthful -one. - - -Apple Sauce with Orange Juice; With Whipped Cream - -And I am going to suggest a variation or two of the apple sauce theme -for your approval. Go ahead and get your apples ready as you always -have, and when you put them on the stove to cook add to them the peel -of an orange. When the apples are quite cooked press them through a -sieve, add brown sugar to them to taste, and the juice of one orange -to a pint of apple. Put this on the stove to cook for about two -minutes, and then put aside to cool before serving. Or, stew your -apples till they are tender, press them through a sieve, add to them -the amount of sugar they require, and when they are quite cold beat up -with them lightly some well-whipped cream--a pint of cream after it is -whipped to a quart of apple sauce. - - -Pear Salad - -Now, if it comes to pass that neither or both of these ways of making -apple sauce finds favor with you, you will certainly give an attentive -ear to a hint on the subject of pears. For one of the daintiest and -most seasonable of desserts is a pear salad. Know how it is made? -Have the pears quite ripe, cut them in thin slices, lay them in a -glass dish, sprinkle powdered sugar on them, pour over them a glass of -brandy which has in it a dozen drops or so of lemon juice, and let -stand on ice for about fifteen minutes before serving. It is a good -idea also to have the pears on ice for two or three hours before they -are sliced. - - -Stuffed Pears - -Another delectable dessert made from pears is called "stuffed pears." -Cut them in two and scoop out the core with a vegetable spoon. Cook -the pears very gently in a little syrup till they are quite tender. -Drain them, and have ready any kind of marmalade into which you have -stirred chopped almonds. Stuff the pears with this and put them -together in their original shape. Have in a dish a thin layer of -boiled rice, over which you have spread a little whipped cream. -Arrange the pears in a circle on the rice, and fill the centre with -the same kind of marmalade as that used for stuffing the pears. - - -Stuffed Peaches - -And peaches may be prepared in just the same way; but you may add just -a few of the kernels of the peaches to the syrup while you are -stewing them, which will give them a delightful flavor. Indeed, I -think it is always an improvement to use some of the kernels when -cooking peaches for any way of serving. In tarts the kernels should be -chopped as finely as possible. - - -Peach Cream - -Peach cream makes a dainty and delicious dessert. Have a dozen ripe -peaches, peel, remove the stones, and then stew them with half a dozen -of the kernels in a syrup made of half a pound of sugar and half a -pint of water. When the peaches are quite soft press them through a -sieve. Mix with the pulp one pint of cream, whipped, and one ounce of -dissolved gelatine. Wet a fancy mould with cold water, pour in the -preparation, and leave till firm. Unmould when serving. - -To be sure, there's no way in the world that a peach is so delightful -as when eaten from the hand, but it must be the very best sort of a -peach to be eaten in this way, and the best sorts just now may be a -thought expensive. That is the reason I have suggested ways for -cooking them, because one can use an inferior quality and yet get -perfectly satisfactory results. And that isn't possible with most of -life's commodities. - - - - -OCTOBER - - "_Fill up the bowl, then, fill it high-- - Fill all the glasses there, for why - Should every creature drink but I; - Why, man of morals, tell me why?_" - - -WHEN all the world adopts the Pythagorean menu as its standard of good -living then I will bestir myself and concoct the daintiest dishes -possible from those "foods that are freshly chemicalized by the sun's -rays," and will gladly give you the benefit of my experiences. But I'm -no reformer, and until that day of universal self-denial arrives I -will continue the tenor of my way along the old line, and try to -idealize commonplace, every-day viands into dishes that pique the -appetite, and make of eating a delicate delight. A very material -vocation, it is true, but as matters stand a highly useful one. Eh? - -Now there are smelts, as plump and inviting a fish as can be found in -the market, and at their best, too. But how many housekeepers are -there who ever think of serving them in any way but just simply fried? -Frequently, of course, they do serve them with a tartar sauce, but -nine times out of ten it would be better for all concerned if the -sauce were neglected or forgotten, or upset, or anything that would -keep it away from the table. - - -Baked Smelts - -The next time you are to have smelts try cooking them in this way: -After they are cleaned have them wiped till perfectly dry, and lay -them in a baking dish; over them pour a wineglass of white wine, add a -sprinkling of salt and pepper, according to your judgment, half a -dozen whole fresh mushrooms, and pour over them one-half a pint of -Spanish sauce. Sprinkle ever so lightly with bread-crumbs and a little -warmed butter, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. This is the -way you would prepare a dozen or fifteen of the fish; of course for a -larger number the amount of seasoning, etc., would be increased -proportionately. Garnish the smelts before serving with thinly sliced -lemon, each slice sprinkled with chopped parsley. - - -Broiled Smelts with Béarnaise - -Or try broiling them, if you like. Split the fish, using only the -largest size, down the backs; remove the backbones, wipe well and then -rub them with a little oil and season with salt and a bit of white -pepper. Broil in a double broiler for three minutes on each side, over -a hot fire. Have spread on the bottom of the dish in which they are to -be served a layer of Béarnaise sauce; arrange the smelts carefully and -daintily on this and sprinkle over them a scanty bit of chopped -parsley. You'll find this far and away ahead of the eternal "fried -smelts and sauce tartare." - - -Fried Smelts with Parsley - -But if you really feel that you must fry them, then go about it in -this way: First of all, fry some thinly sliced bacon and in its fat -fry to a delicate brown the smelts which you have previously dipped in -sweet, rich cream, and then dredged with flour to make a thick paste -around them. Serve garnished with the bacon and with fried parsley. -The frying of parsley is as you know, a somewhat ticklish job; it must -be perfectly dry, put into a frying basket and then plunged into hot -fat for just a few minutes--don't have the fat too hot--this is where -you must think and act simultaneously--or the parsley will lose its -color, and then you will have to begin all over again. After it is put -on the dish squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over it. My word for -it you will find this an acceptable dish, whether it is prepared for -breakfast, luncheon or dinner. - - -Bluefish--Newport Style - -I didn't mean you to understand that I considered smelts to be the -only fish in the market at present; I simply wanted to call your -attention to them as being as good as any other, and a good deal -better than they, themselves, are at any other time of year. - -Bluefish are good now, too; they are excellent, really, and a bluefish -at its best is hard to beat. Have you ever tried cooking them in the -oven? Have them split, you know, as for broiling, then put them into a -well-greased baking pan. Have ready half a cupful of melted butter -with the juice of an onion in it and likewise the juice of a lemon, -with a reasonable amount of salt and of cayenne pepper. Before the -fish goes into the oven moisten it well with the prepared butter, and -baste with the butter every ten minutes while it is in the oven. When -it is of a good even brown it is done. Now, don't serve with the -bluefish cooked in this way potatoes of any sort or kind. Have -cucumbers, hothouse, of course, and have them fried. Cut them into -thick slices and remove the seeds; then soak them in equal parts of -ice-water and vinegar, well salted, for one hour. Take them out, drain -and wipe dry and fry in boiling lard until a light brown. They are not -only good when served with bluefish cooked in this way, but they are -appetizing bits to accompany pork or lamb chops when you are serving -them with a brown sauce. - -So much for to-day's fish story. As for meat, anybody can get good -meats at any time of the year if they will go to a man who knows how -to cut them, and won't insist on dickering with him about the price. - -Domestic ducks are now in good condition. You might get one of them -and try preparing it in some new way to be used, if it's a success, on -Thanksgiving Day. Say stuffing it with mushrooms; use one can of -mushrooms to three heaping cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs; one-half a -cupful of melted butter, with salt and pepper. If the stuffing appears -to be too dry moisten it with a bit of milk. Split the mushrooms and -use all their liquor; if the duck is too small to require the full -amount you may add some of the mushrooms to the giblet gravy to be -served with it. - -And there is plenty of material in market for green salads; there are -celery and lettuce, the stand-bys; watercress, escarolle, romaine, and -chicory. Try this latter some time soon, using a plain dressing of -oil, vinegar, salt and pepper for it, with bits of Roquefort cheese -sprinkled over it. If any among you object to eating this cheese -because of its odor, rest easy, for you may have at hand a -counteracting force in the Bar-le-Duc currants. They do, as you -probably are aware, put the finishing touch to almost any sort of -dinner, but when particularly strong cheese has been served they are -nothing short of a godsend. - - * * * * * - -To the ordinary reader the name of Bontoux conveys nothing; to the -Parisian of a generation or two ago it was synonymous with all that -was delightful in the way of food and drink. The shop over which -Madame Bontoux presided remains in the Rue de l'Échelle, but Madame, -herself, has been gathered to her forefathers. Originally she had been -a cordon bleu, and in the early forties opened a small establishment -in the Rue Montesquieu, which establishment, if I mistake not, is -mentioned in Sue's "Seven Cardinal Sins." Thence she moved to the Rue -de l'Échelle, where she died. Acting on the whim of the moment, she -would sell her wares only to those whom she liked, and those whom she -did not like might offer her a hundred times their value in vain. The -Rue de l'Échelle being near the Comédie Française, Rachel, who was a -gourmet of the first water, frequently went to the shop after -rehearsals. One afternoon she went in while one of the shopmen was -busy packing a hamper for Nicholas I. Among the delicacies there were -a dozen magnificent quails on a skewer. "I want those," said Rachel in -the imperious way she adopted now and then. "You will have to want, my -little woman," replied Madame, shaking her head in her enormous -bonnet, which seemed a fixture; no one had ever seen her without it. -Then Rachel toned down. "I will give you ten francs apiece for them," -she said. "Not for ten crowns apiece," came the retort, and in a voice -which left the great actress no doubt as to its meaning. - -Rachel was disappointed, and rose from her chair to go. Just when she -had reached the door an idea flashed on her. She turned round and -began to recite the famous lines from Corneille's "Horace." The effect -was electrical on the shopman, who dropped the quails. Madame Bontoux -was not so easily impressed. She kept shaking her head just as if to -say "You may save yourself the trouble, my girl;" but all of a sudden, -when Rachel brought out the last line-- - - "_Moi seule en être cause et mourir de plaisir_," - -she jumped up. "Give her the dozen quails and a pheasant besides." -Wonderful to relate, the enormous bonnet had got pushed on one side. - -Now, there's a very pretty question to be discussed at your dinner -table o' Sunday night: Were those birds _à bon marché_ for Rachel, or -did Madame Bontoux, in the language of to-day, "get the best of the -bargain?" - -When you go to market in search of game in these days, and the -marketman, leading you in the direction of the ice-box wherein he -keeps his choicest wares, says, "Look at 'em; ain't they beauties?" -you will be quite safe in acquiescing by a plain yea or a nod, but do -not go to the extent of ordering a dozen quail, or woodcock, or -snipe, or any other game bird, in fact, until you have ascertained if -the legs are smooth and the quill feathers soft, which facts prove -them to be young birds. Furthermore, be sure that the breasts are -hard, firm, and well-covered with flesh, for this will show them to be -in good condition. - -Once the birds are under your roof-tree see to it that the cook does -not draw the trail from the woodcock or snipe, for by all gourmets -this is reckoned a great delicacy, and, by the way, though, of course, -it is a matter of common knowledge, the heads of these birds are the -most delicious morsels of all. Another point to be borne in mind is -that when preparing game for cooking it should never be washed inside, -but merely well wiped with a clean cloth. - - -Toast for Game - -Partridges, grouse and quail are of so fine a flavor that it is little -short of a criminal act to serve them in any way but roasted or -broiled. If they are to be broiled and served on toast, then a -delicious way of preparing the toast is to have the giblets boiled -till they are so tender that they can be pounded to a paste with a -little of the water in which they were boiled, and then, when mixed -with an equal amount of butter, spread over the toast. This giblet -butter may be varied to suit a variety of tastes. A little chopped -parsley may be added, or a squeeze of lemon juice, or both, in which -case a complementary dash of cayenne must be added. The meat of the -partridge is so dry that it is well to serve with it a sauce made of -melted butter, slightly seasoned with onion and a dash of white wine, -or a tartar sauce is really excellent with broiled partridge. - - -Sauce for Partridge - -If these birds--partridges, grouse, and quail--are to be roasted, the -garnishing in either case must consist of seasoned watercress. With -the partridge is served a bread sauce, but it's a custom as old as the -hills, and for that very reason I have tried many experiments to find -a sauce more to my liking. I have found it, and this is the way I -prepare it: half a pint of clear stock, preferably white, seasoned -with onion juice, a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and four cloves, -strained through a napkin before using. The birds will be much better -if an ounce of butter is placed inside of them before cooking, and if -they are occasionally basted with melted butter during the process of -roasting. - - -Roasted Grouse - -Grouse need no sauce, especially if before they are put into the oven -they are stuffed with one slice of bread each which has been toasted -and dipped in Madeira wine. They may be larded, or barded, or basted -with melted butter while roasting, if it is thought likely to improve -their flavor. - - -Roasted Quail - -Beware of cooks who assure you that they know how to roast quail until -you have seen their skill put to the test. It is a failing common to -too many cooks to over-roast these dainty little birds. Fourteen to -sixteen minutes in a hot oven is quite long enough to cook them to the -point favored by epicurean palates. They should be served on bread -sliced and fried, and with them, if desired, a very little of the -clear sauce above recommended for partridges. - -Any of the pieces left from these birds roasted may be daintily served -with a mayonnaise dressing, and you may be willing to assert that the -last state of that bird was better than the first. - - Velvet Soup. - Sherry, Amontillado. - Baked halibut with Parmesan cheese. - Roasted duck with olives. - Burgundy, Romanee. - Cauliflower with bread crumbs. - Lettuce and cucumber salad. - Macaroon charlotte. - Toasted crackers. - Cream cheese. Coffee. - -It was with the intention of preparing a dinner according to the above -menu that I went about my duties "all on a market day," for it seemed -to me upon looking it over to be a dainty repast for four people, and -one wherein neither parsimony nor extravagance held the trick hand. -And a safe middle course in one's daily regimen tends quite as much to -health and prosperity in individual and nation as does the same policy -in seemingly weightier matters. - - -Velvet Soup - -The velvet soup is easy of accomplishment, as one need only to have a -quart of some simple white stock on hand, made from veal or poultry -remnants, into which is stirred the minced red part of four carrots -seasoned with pepper and salt and stewed till tender in butter, two -tablespoonfuls of tapioca which has been soaked for four hours in -cold water, and then let the whole boil for nearly an hour before -straining and serving. It is not only easily prepared, but it is -easily digested, as a soup should always be which precedes a rather -rich fish course similar to that given above. - - -Baked Halibut with Parmesan - -About a pound and a half of halibut, at eighteen cents the pound, will -be required, and it should be boiled till tender enough to flake -lightly; then, if you have a rather deep dish, with a border of mashed -potato about the inside, all will go smoothly. Into the bottom of the -dish put a layer of white sauce made of half a pint of boiling milk, -three ounces of butter and a little salt, thickened with flour; -sprinkle in flakes of the fish, then a layer of the sauce, adding a -little milk if it promises to be too dry, and so on till the dish is -full, having a layer of sauce on top. Then scatter grated Parmesan -over all, and brown to a tempting shade. - - -Roasted Duck with Olives - -With ducklings tender and toothsome, as they should be in this month, -it is plainly seen that the next course is capable of being a _pièce -de résistance_ at a far more stately affair even than the one which we -are considering. But if they are roasted in the ordinary way known to -every housekeeper in the land, stuffed with bread crumbs, highly -seasoned, and have a giblet sauce, quite an extraordinary flavor will -be given them if, just before serving, half a pint of pitted and -quartered olives are added to the sauce. It's only a trifling addition -to the old way, you see, but the improvement is so great you will -wonder that every one doesn't know of the gastronomical harmony -existing between duck and olives. Now, the flavor of the ducks is so -rich and altogether satisfying that it takes only the simplest and -mildest-flavored vegetable to complement this course. And nothing will -answer the purpose better than cauliflower. If they are cut into -pieces of uniform size, they cook in a much more satisfactory manner, -and they should boil as gently as possible; do not add the salt to the -water till they are nearly tender. When taking them up, drain well, -and over all pour melted butter thickened with browned bread-crumbs, -and send to table. I fancy you will find them more to your liking -served in this way than in the old rutty way of so many cooks, namely, -with a white sauce, which varies in different households from a fair -quality of flour paste to a very rich and fairly cloying concoction of -cream and melted butter. - -There is nothing like a simple salad to prepare one's palate for the -sweets which come at the last, and with hothouse cucumbers now in -evidence and lettuce always with us, the making of a salad is a -delight in more ways than one. It is not so many years ago that we had -to pay from thirty-five to fifty cents each for cucumbers at this -season of the year, but the large number of cucumber hothouses near -every city is fast bringing this desirable vegetable to a state where -it will be known as an all-the-year-round commodity. - - -Macaroon Charlotte - -There are a good many people, and the number is increasing, who -declare that to them a dinner is finished by a bit of cheese after the -salad, and finished quite to their satisfaction, too. But for those -whose dinner is incomplete without a bit of sweetness, I would -recommend a macaroon charlotte made by lining a dish with broken -macaroons and then filling the dish with whipped cream which has been -sweetened and flavored to taste; adding to it at last half a pound of -crystallized cherries. - -As to the wines, of course, it's a matter of purse and principle -whether or not they shall be served. I have suggested the kinds -appropriate to the courses, for the reason that I have heard many a -hostess "on hospitable thoughts intent" wonder "what wine goes with -what." - - * * * * * - -To be sure, I went a-marketing t'other day, and I was able to collect -a stock of valuable information which I came home prepared to dish up -for the delectation of any who chose to read and profit by it. But by -some chance, or mischance, it occurred to me that All-Hallows Eve is -near at hand, and that when it comes you girls will be up to all sorts -of pranks. Now, years and years ago I was a girl myself, and I can -dimly recall that the playing of pranks on the fairies' anniversary -night induced a desire for liquid refreshment, either for the purpose -of chirking up one's spirits when the omens proved unfavorable or for -helping out the general merry-making when the signs foretold bliss. - - -Claret Tipple - -And a drink that seemed to me at that time apropos of either event we -used to make by slicing half a dozen juicy apples and three lemons as -a starting point. Then we would lay them alternately in a large bowl, -sprinkling each layer plentifully with sugar, and over all would pour -a quart of claret. Then we would let it stand for fully six hours, -pour it through a muslin bag, and it was ready for use. - - -Hot Spiced Claret - -If you desire a hot drink, and it is likely that you will, if the -tricks you have on hand call you out of doors at midnight, you might -prepare one in this way: Have half-a-dozen lumps of sugar, the juice -of half a lemon, four whole allspice, two whole cloves and half a -teaspoonful of ground cinnamon in a dish; over it pour half a pint of -claret and let it boil for just two minutes, stirring it all the time. -Strain it into hot glasses and grate just a little nutmeg on top as -you serve it. At the first sip the good qualities of this libation -will present themselves to you. - - -Hot Claret Egg-nog - -And for an encore you might vary it a little bit in this way: Stir -together two tablespoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, half -a teaspoonful of mixed spices and half a pint of claret. Boil this for -two minutes and then pour it over the yolks of two eggs that have -been beaten well with a teaspoonful of sugar. Stir all the while that -you are pouring the wine slowly over the eggs. Grate a little nutmeg -over the top after you have poured the mixture into hot glasses. Now -mind, don't get confused and pour the eggs into the wine, for that -would spoil everything; pour the wine over the eggs. And be thankful -that you have lived long enough to concoct such a satisfying drink as -this always proves itself to be. - - -Hot Sherry Egg-nog - -But if you feel that you must find a use for the whites of the eggs -dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered sugar in half a pint of hot -water, add to it half a pint of sherry wine and let this come to a -boil. Meanwhile have the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth and pour -the hot mixture over them, stirring rapidly. Pour into hot glasses, -grating a bit of nutmeg over the top of each. See to it that the -vessel in which you boil the wine is thoroughly clean. You don't want -even the faintest trace of a taste of anything besides the ingredients -herein prescribed. - - -Orange Punch - -An orange punch isn't just the innocent tipple that its name would -seem to indicate. But that doesn't hinder its being a treat for the -palate. Infuse the peel of three and the juice of six oranges with -three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar in two quarts of boiling water -for half an hour. Strain and add to the juice a half pint of brandy -and a liqueur glass of maraschino. And it is quite likely that you -will think it needs a little more sugar; if so, add it. Now it may be -that you will like this hot, or it may be that you will like it cold; -in the latter case cool it on the ice for several hours before serving -or ice it when serving. This is also an excellent recipe for lemon -punch--substituting lemons for the oranges. - - -Cider Punch - -If you really long for drinks which seem suitable for days the -"saddest of the year," why then see to it that your cider jug is -filled with sweet cider as a prerequisite, and go ahead. Call your -first effort a cider punch. Peel a lemon and pour half a pint of -sherry on the peeling; to the juice of the lemon add a cupful of -sugar, a little grated nutmeg and a quart of cider. Mix this together -thoroughly and then add to it the rind of the lemon and the sherry. -Let it get perfectly cold on the ice, or if you are short of time ice -it when serving. Now if you wish to make this punch a bit more -insidious you can easily do so by adding to it a wineglass of brandy. -It will be quite as palatable also, I think you will find. - - -Cider Egg-nog - -And then cider egg-nog is well worth the making and the drinking. Use -a large glass; beat up in it an egg and a scant teaspoonful of sugar; -put in half a dozen small lumps of ice, fill the glass with cider and -grate a little nutmeg on top. This is not only a very pleasant drink, -but it is an extremely wholesome one. It will act as a pick-me-up many -times when one is tired or not feeling quite up to the mark. - - -Quince Liqueur - -Another delicious potation that will be found of use at all sorts of -occasions is quince liqueur. Grate a sufficient number of quinces to -make a quart of juice after it is squeezed through a jelly bag. With -this juice mix a pound of sugar, six ounces of bitter almonds, -bruised, a dozen whole cloves and a gill of brandy. Mix these all well -together and set away in a demijohn for ten days at least. Then strain -it through the jelly bag till it is perfectly clear, and bottle for -use. Besides drinking this as a liqueur, you will find that you can -vary and improve a number of your recipes for punch by adding just a -suspicion of it to them. - - -Various Cups - -At all times cups are alluring decoctions, don't you think? And there -are many varieties of them. But they all begin in the same way. A -cordial glass each of maraschino, benedictine and brandy put into a -quart jug, and then if you fill the jug with champagne you have -champagne cup, with Rhine wine you have Rhine wine cup, and with cider -you have cider cup. If you use claret you add a few drops of lemon -juice and double the quantity of maraschino. - - -Rhine Wine Seltzer - -But it may be that you prefer to take your Rhine wine with seltzer; if -so, just half fill the glass with the wine and pour enough seltzer to -fill it. Both the wine and the seltzer should be kept on the ice for -some little time before using. - - -Ginger Lemonade - -If after all this array of non-temperance drinks you feel that you -should turn your attention to something milder, and yet can't quite -make up your mind to clear cold water, why not try a ginger lemonade? -Have a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a tumbler, add to it the juice -of half a lemon and fill the tumbler with ginger ale that has been -well iced. You will find this a pleasant change from the ordinary -lemonade, and for many persons it serves to make ginger ale a deal -more palatable. - - -Soda Cocktail - -Now, if you should feel that you would like to serve a drink that is -as innocent and harmless as so much milk, but that when judged by its -name alone seems to be intended, oh, my! for very dissipated persons, -indeed! let me suggest to you a soda cocktail. Fill a glass with lemon -soda, put into it a dash of raspberry syrup and on top of it a thin -slice of orange. And, your very good health. - - - - -NOVEMBER - - "_From our own selves our joys must flow, - And that dear hut our home._" - - -ONCE upon a time, a somebody who was famous for his or her wit or -wisdom, or for both qualities, remarked that oftentimes the easiest -and best way to get over a difficulty was to go round it. To my great -regret, I can't give you the name of the author of the very pithy -saying, neither can I tell you just what conditions called it forth, -but it's safe to say that its context was a suggestion or opinion -offered for the settling of some great big question of state. But, -what is more to the point, I can be of help in showing you, I hope, -how to make a practical application of the epigram to every-day -affairs. Because, just as sure as we are living, there is always a way -to go round if one can't get over the very toughest hands that one -gets in life's shuffle. - -Now, there's the servant-girl question in its Sunday-night aspect. It -exists; it can't be wiped out; and it is impossible to ignore it. She, -or they, as the case may be, will have "the evening out," come what -may, and guests are pretty sure to come o' Sunday nights. Of course -you can't send them home supperless, and neither can you send your -family to bed in a semi-famished condition. No; you must go round the -situation. And it's not so hard. Indeed, my last trip to market, which -included a call at the grocer's, was for the express purpose of -picking up points that would make the circuit easy for you. - -I'm not going to say a word, here, about the chafing-dish. And I will -tell you why. It is the custom in a large number of families for the -man of the house to preside at the chafing-dish Sunday nights, and -while my stock of book-learning is very diminutive, I have learned -that under no circumstances is it wise to offer suggestions to a man -who thinks he can cook. - -Frequently it is easy to have some little dish left ready by the cook -which needs only to be heated before it is served, but in nine -households out of ten cold viands are the staple commodity. And the -singular sameness is surprising and saddening. If one is in the habit -of dropping in to "pot luck" at the houses of one's _intimes_, one -soon learns to reckon with a fair degree of certainty upon what will -be likely to be set before one. - -Now, there are sandwiches. Once let a housekeeper acquire a reputation -for a particular brand of that edible, and it's like getting her to -change her religion to induce her to try making any other sort. But it -requires only a very little time, with a fair amount of common sense, -to have a sandwich repertoire that will enable one to get through a -fairly long season without repetitions. - - -Caviare Sandwiches - -The next time you are to have caviare sandwiches, try using -brown-bread, sliced as thinly as possible, spread with unsalted -butter, and then with a layer of caviare and a sprinkling of lemon -juice. And you will find them as good as they are uncommon. - - -Oyster Sandwiches; Fish and Game Sandwiches - -Then there are oyster sandwiches. Cook the oysters a bit, or till they -are firm, then when they are cool stir them into good stiff -mayonnaise, with a seasoning of red pepper and just a few capers. -Spread day-old bread with this mixture and finish off, sandwich -fashion. You can use cold fish of any sort in this way; having the -bits very small, and adding chopped gherkins to the mayonnaise. And, -better yet, use in this way any bits of cold game, or poultry, using -with them chopped olives and chopped truffles. In either case, you may -if you like lay a lettuce leaf on the bread and put the mixture on -that. But for myself I have always disliked the addition of lettuce to -sandwiches. - - -Savory Butters - -It is very easy to have savory butters, "beurres composés," so -familiar to the French cuisine, and so give an infinite variety of -taste to any kind of sandwiches. Take, for instance, unsalted butter -and season it well with anchovy essence, some very finely chopped -parsley, a bit of paprika, and spread thin slices of bread with it and -then use a layer of any kind of cold meat. Or you can use shrimp -essence, or in fact any essence or sauce that you think would prove to -be a favorite. - - -Crust Sandwiches - -One of the most palatable ways, it seems to me, in which to make -sandwiches is to take paste, not puff paste that is too rich, and roll -it out as thinly as possible; cut it into rounds of uniform size -spread around with a certain mixture, then cover it with another round -of the paste, pinch the edges together and bake them till they are -brown. As to the mixtures, they may be made of an endless number of -savory viands. Say bloater paste softened so that it will spread -easily with a little melted butter. And then there are all sorts of -potted meats and devilled things that seem almost as if they were made -expressly to be used in this way. Believe me, you will find these -sandwiches ever so dainty if you get them small enough and thin -enough, and, by the way, they make a capital appointment for the -five-o'clock tea-table. - - -Sweet Sandwiches - -Now for the sweet sandwiches. They may be made with either white -bread, cake, or wafers--preferably the last. Have some icing made by -your favorite rule and sprinkle into it chopped nuts of any kind and -spread the wafers with it. Or, use chopped crystallized fruits and -cherries preserved in maraschino; and then try, the next time you make -this sort of sweets, some brandied fruits with the icing. You might -make a chocolate icing and add to that some chopped pistachios or -almonds or preserved ginger. But surely you've enough now in the way -of a ground plan for the making of any number of dainty and appetizing -bouchées. - - -Savory Jelly - -Just a word about jellied things. You can have a pint of stock, white -if possible, season it with an onion, a bay-leaf, a bit of thyme, a -clove, and pepper and salt. Then put in a good half-ounce of dissolved -gelatine; and turn about one quarter of it, after straining, into a -mould and set on ice to cool. Have the rest of the jelly in a liquid -state, but perfectly cold. When that in the mould is set, have any -sort of cold meat, chicken, turkey, ham or tongue cut into strips free -of skin and bone, and pack it into the mould with alternate layers of -the jelly, finishing with the latter. Now see how successful you can -be in making such a dish a joy to the eye. Use sliced olives, -gherkins, capers, truffles, fanciful shapes of beet or anything that -your artistic eye will permit, and sprinkle these through the dish as -you go along. Run a thin knife blade in between the jelly and mould -and then plunge the mould into boiling water and the jelly will -unmould easily. - - -Cheese Salad - -Then there are salads. To make one of cheese rub the yolk of a -hard-boiled egg in a basin with a tablespoonful of salad oil; add one -teaspoonful of salt, a bit of cayenne and a little made mustard; when -all is well mixed stir in about half a pound of grated Parmesan -cheese, the juice of an onion, and a tablespoon of vinegar. Serve on -lettuce leaves. You will find that this will go particularly well with -sandwiches of bloater paste. - -But for a salad to be served with a jellied meat, make one of nuts, -one kind or several, broken into bits, mixed with an equal quantity of -sliced olives and spread with only a very little mayonnaise. - -I did want to tell you of ways to make some very appetizing beverages, -for the sort of occasions we are discussing, but they will have to -wait. And perhaps it's just as well; already my conscience is -troubling me for fear that you are going to be so taken up with the -goodies I have told you of that you will have no inclination to think -on "better things" when it comes Sunday. But it can't be helped now. - - * * * * * - -Last spring a certain Boston man with his family moved into the -country. Not so far out, however, but that he could come to town daily -to attend to business, and yet far enough from the gilded dome to be -able to buy sufficient land for a small farm without paying all -creation for it. The next move was the stocking of the farm. So a -Jersey cow was bought to keep the family supplied with cream, a flock -of prize hens was set at work in a bran new henhouse that there might -be fresh eggs on hand, and last but not least, a pair of tiny young -pigs were secured to provide the household with sweet, home-made pork -when winter should set in. And having secured the stock, the owner -proceeded at once to make pets, collectively and individually, of the -whole equipment. Actually the cow would manage to look half-way -intelligent when he stroked her neck and told her she was the sort -that deserved to live in clover the year round; the hens really did -add a note to their regular cackle when the master was about, to show -him that they knew who gave them heaping measures of grain, and the -pigs, which he called Tim and Jim, got in no time to know their names -when they were spoken by his voice. Well, cold weather came on and -with it those crisp, frosty mornings when a toothsomely seasoned -sausage with a potato purée makes an ideal breakfast. So Tim and Jim -went the way of all pork, and in due course of time their owner had -the satisfaction of seeing on his own breakfast table pork "of his own -raising." And what do you think happened then? - -"Susan," said he to his wife, "I can't do it; if you will believe me, -I can't eat that pork. Give it away--give it all away. Never have any -more put on this table. Why, dash it all, Susan, I may be a ninny, but -I was actually fond of Tim and Jim, and don't see what I was thinking -of when I had them killed." - -"Samuel," said the wife, a woman who knew how and when to point a -moral, "you needn't call yourself a ninny; be thankful for the feeling -you have, because it can give you a glimpse, though from afar off, of -the mighty power that will make of us a nation of vegetarians, if we -ever do become such." - -And I, when I heard of this little episode, fell to wondering if it -would be such terribly hard lines after all to be put on a strictly -vegetarian diet. At any rate, I managed to turn out one dinner, sans -fish, sans flesh, sans fowl, that didn't appear in the least like a -substitute for something better. You shall have the menu: - - Consommé with asparagus points. - Mushroom cannelons. Poached eggs with tomato. - Macaroni with cheese. - String beans with butter. - Walnut salad. - Lemon soufflé. Coffee. - - -Consommé with Asparagus - -As I was determined to be thoroughly conscientious in the preparation -of this dinner, using stock for the soup was quite out of the -question, so I prepared it in this way: A couple of onions, a carrot -and a bunch of herbs fried in plenty of butter till of a good brown. -Add to them a bunch of celery chopped, with salt and pepper for -seasoning, and a tiny bit of sugar. Cover with water and boil till the -vegetables are quite tender. Strain and add to the liquid a dash of -sherry, a few drops of lemon juice and some asparagus points that have -been cooked by themselves till tender. Of course, the asparagus you -will buy in tins or glass just now, but for use in this way it is -quite as good as though freshly cut. You will be surprised, I fancy, -when you see how savory a soup you have turned out. - - -Cannelons of Mushrooms - -It isn't often that we feel justified in buying fresh mushrooms at -this time of year, but at a dinner of this sort where one is not -obliged to pay for a steak or for game, one can afford to be a little -bit reckless in the matter of vegetables, especially when they are to -be put to such a delicious use as the making of cannelons. Coarsely -mince a pound or so of well-wiped mushrooms and toss them with a -little minced parsley in butter till nicely browned; then season with -white pepper and salt, adding a little more butter to moisten the -mushrooms till they are quite cooked. Then stir in--off the fire--the -yolks of three eggs, a squeeze of lemon juice, and set the whole aside -to cool. Roll out some puff or very short paste thin, cut it out in -oblongs, put a good spoonful of the mushroom mixture on each oblong, -roll these up like sausages, moistening the edges to make them adhere, -brush them over with egg and fry in plenty of oil or in butter. For -myself, I prefer the oil, and the using of oil for frying purposes -isn't the extravagant act that it seems at the first flush to be, -because it wastes very little and can be used repeatedly for different -purposes. - -The cannelons are to be served with the poached eggs and tomato. And -the directions for preparing the latter dish are to be found elsewhere -in this book. - - -Macaroni with Cheese - -The macaroni with cheese you know all about, I dare say. Is this your -way of doing it? Break the macaroni into two-inch lengths and drop -into boiling salted water. When it is quite tender pour cold water -over it, drain and stir about in plenty of melted butter till each -piece is well covered, then put into a baking-dish, strew grated -Parmesan cheese over it and let brown in a hot oven. Just a little bit -of cayenne added to the cheese improves the flavor wonderfully, to my -thinking. - - -String Beans with Butter - -You can find green string beans at the provisioner's yet, or you can -get them tinned, as you choose. I shall not presume to advise you as -to that, but for the cooking of them I will say a word or two. Boil -them till perfectly tender, then drain well and place them in a pan -with a tablespoonful or more of fine herbs (minced chives or minced -shallot and parsley), with pepper, salt and lemon juice and two ounces -of butter; toss them over the fire till the butter is melted and -serve. - -Perhaps this isn't the place to go into a discussion of the -circumstances that have landed us as a nation at a point where we -think we must have turkey on Thanksgiving Day, or be accused of -showing a disrespect for the Declaration of Independence. But some -time the matter will be attacked by somebody who will spend a decade -or so in the Astor Library or the Boston Athenæum to discover who said -"turkey" first and where they said it. Evidently it was said in one of -those voices that are heard around the world and its echoes have not -begun to diminish, so far as my ear can detect, even yet. So turkey it -is, I suppose. - - -Grape Fruit with Rum - -But this little talk shall be of the addenda of the dinner. Know what -addenda means, don't you? Well, call them "fixin's," then. Nowadays -grape fruit is a hard and fast "fixin'" of a Thanksgiving Day dinner. -Before the soup it comes on cut in halves with the seeds removed and -also all of the white pith in the centre of each half with a pair of -sharp scissors. Then by the taste of them it is evident that about an -hour before they were put on the table they had a lump of sugar and a -teaspoonful of rum put into each half, after which little refection -they reposed on the ice till wanted. Don't go on the principle that if -a little rum is good more must be better and try to float the fruit -in--that would have been hailed as a rank outrage even by Captain -Shaddock himself--but just be content to see how potent a little bit -of rum can be in good company. - - -Grape Fruit Sorbet; Fruit Salad - -If you want a grape fruit sorbet, thinking it best to begin your -dinner with oysters, you may pick out the pulp with a fork in sizable -bits, free from seeds and pith, cover these bits with sherry and with -a sprinkling of sugar and freeze. You know the rest--how to serve it -and the like. But you may be firm in the conviction that when grape -fruit comes to your table it doesn't make its appearance till dessert. -If so, you will allow me to put in just a word, won't you? The word is -to advise you to get the pulp out as recommended for the sorbet, mix -with it an equal quantity of Malaga grapes cut in halves with seeds -removed, covered with sugar and sherry and iced for three or four -hours before serving. - -I don't know whether it is true or not but it seems to me more than -likely that the mushroom hunters for science' sake are doing "us -folks" who like good things to eat a kind turn by getting out so many -books on the subject of good, bad, and indifferent sorts. At any rate, -they are getting to be more plentiful every year and consequently -should be lower in price. Thanksgiving Day seems to be a pretty -appropriate time for having them. You must spread yourself on that -day, even if you live on bread and cheese for the rest of the month. -Have them then and by themselves after the table is cleared of the -"bird and its fixin's," and have them in croquettes. - - * * * * * - -Of course, you knew just what to have for dinner on Thanksgiving Day, -and if perchance you didn't there were plenty at hand to tell you how -the menu should be composed. So just let me advise you how to prepare -two or three dishes, to be called Thanksgiving _en réchauffée_, if it -will make things seem any more prosperous to you. - - -Broiled Turkey Legs - -Yes, I shall begin with turkey, because in nine families out of ten, -or perhaps ninety-and-nine out of a hundred would be a closer -estimate, that bird formed the _pièce de résistance_. You know that -if there's plenty to "go round" at the first serving of a turkey the -legs are generally left untouched; the carver doesn't feel like giving -them to any one, and when it comes to waiting on himself he thinks he -is entitled to a choicer bit. And so he is. But you can use those legs -all in good time. Just gash them three or four times with a very sharp -knife, sprinkle them over with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon -juice and broil them over a hot fire till browned well; put them on a -hot dish, pour a little melted butter over them and send to table. -They will go uncommonly well, say for a Sunday morning breakfast to -help out with a bacon omelet. - - -Broiled Devilled Turkey Legs; Potato Omelet - -But if they are to do duty at luncheon, devil them before broiling. -Season them with salt and pepper and then rub lightly with mustard -which has been mixed with oil. Turn the legs often while they are -broiling, basting them once in a while with a little melted butter. -When they are dished pour a little rich brown gravy over them. And -with them cooked in this way serve a potato omelet. Pardon the -digression, and I will tell you how this is made. It may not prove a -digression, however, as it is quite possible that you had a -sufficient quantity of mashed potato left from the Thanksgiving Day -dinner to make it. But if you didn't, boil four large potatoes and -when soft mash them; beat four eggs with a cup of milk, mix it with -the potatoes and season with salt and white pepper. Cut four or five -ounces of bacon into tiny squares, fry till crisp and brown, then mix -in the potatoes and stir over the fire till they are heated through. -Let brown well, fold the omelet over and serve. - - -Minced Turkey with Mushrooms - -If there is a considerable quantity of the white meat of the turkey -left over cut it up into dice-shaped bits and add to it half its -quantity of canned mushrooms cut in two; moisten well with béchamel -sauce, season with pepper and salt and let heat for ten minutes, but -don't stir it. Dish it on triangular pieces of toasted white bread. -Or, if you like, you may use in place of the béchamel sauce, cream and -butter; but, whatever amount of cream is used, let it heat till it -reduces to one-half. - - -Minced Turkey - -A more savory hash may be made in this way: Use any or all bits of the -turkey and chop them rather finely; add a little chopped parsley, a -few drops of lemon juice, the juice of an onion or two, and white -stock enough to moisten it sufficiently. Let it simmer for half an -hour very slowly and then add a little white wine just before taking -up. If you are in the habit of using wine in cooking you will know all -about how much it will require to give just the right flavor; but if -you are pledged to abstain from such practices you won't want to know -and you won't need to know how much should be used, so I'll not go -into particulars. - - -Goose Pie - -But perhaps for good and sufficient reasons you didn't have turkey at -all but had roasted goose, and if that is so please do use up the -tidbits by making a goose pie. Cut all the meat from the bones and put -the bones with the skin into a saucepan with a little water to boil -slowly for two hours. Let it cool, and skim off all the fat; into the -bottom of a deep dish put a scanty layer of boiled and mashed onions; -sprinkle well with salt and pepper, put in a layer of the goose meat, -then a layer of the onions, and so on till the dish is filled. Pour in -the water in which the bones were boiled, cover with a good crust and -bake in a moderate oven till the crust is done. - - -Stewed Goose - -Let me tell you also that stewed goose is by no means a slow sort of -dish. In fact, it is reckoned by a good many as being among the joys -of earth. Take two onions, peel and chop, and put them in a saucepan -with a tablespoonful of butter and fry until soft; dredge them with -flour and stir in half a pint or so of the water in which the bones of -the goose have been boiled. Cut up into dice-shaped pieces any or all -of the cold cooked goose and put it into the saucepan with a wineglass -of white wine and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and season to taste with -salt and pepper. Cover closely and stew for half an hour slowly. Turn -out and serve very hot. - - -Baked Squash - -It is more than probable that, whatever else you had for dinner, you -saw fit to have in addition squash boiled and mashed. And it is safe -to say that some of it was left. So take this remnant and heat it well -with plenty of butter over the fire and then put it into a baking -dish. Scatter Parmesan cheese over the top and brown it very quickly -in a hot oven. Serve this with your stewed goose, and the trick is -yours. - - -Broiled Duck Fillets with Orange Sauce - -And suppose you had ducks for your dinner, could you find a better way -than this to serve up what was left of them? Cut as good-sized pieces -as you can and dip them in a little melted butter; season with pepper -and salt, and broil for a minute or so over a hot fire. Arrange the -pieces on a hot dish and pour over them a sauce made in this way: Fry -two or three slices of fat bacon and an onion together for five -minutes; add the juice of an orange and a wineglass of port or sherry -wine with what salt and pepper is needed. Strain it before using. You -will find this so delectable, I dare say, that you will be ready to -declare that the last days of those ducks were better than the first. - - -Duck Salad - -Did you ever make a duck salad in this way? Rub the bottom of the -salad bowl with a peeled onion, and squeeze in a few drops of lemon -juice. Put the cold bits of duck in the bowl with what you consider a -suitable amount of chopped whites of boiled eggs; over this sprinkle a -few quartered olives and a handful or so of capers, and then put in a -layer of chopped watercresses. Cover this with a layer of mayonnaise -and serve. Now if you want to use a little turkey meat, or a little -goose meat, or a little of each, to eke out what you have of cold -duck, go right ahead and do so. The salad will be just as good as when -duck alone is used and perhaps some will think it even better. - - -Fish Salad - -Didn't you have a boiled or even a broiled fish of some kind for your -dinner, either halibut, striped bass, or fresh cod? If you did, just -take what was left of it and flake it up daintily; put a layer of it -in a salad bowl that has been rubbed with an onion, sprinkle the fish -with salt and lemon juice, put in a layer of shredded lettuce, -dressing this also with lemon juice and salt, another layer of the -fish and lastly one of lettuce. Cover it all with a layer of tartar -sauce, and there you have a salad worth the eating. 'Twouldn't tempt a -dying anchorite, perhaps, but it's quite good enough for human -nature's daily food. - - - - -DECEMBER - - "_And we meet, with champagne and chicken, at last._" - - -ANY one can go to market if she has the wherewithal and secure any -kind of game that happens to be on the list and be happy in the -purchase and eating of it, I dare say. But the happiest dames in these -times are those who have a husband or sweetheart in the field shooting -straight to the mark with all thoughts for the recipient of his day's -work. So it comes to pass that by express to many a door there come on -these fine crisp mornings boxes or hampers of game birds. The next -thing, of course, is to get one's neighbors in to partake of them in -order that they may be set by the ears with envy. I am with you. I -will help you to make this envy business complete while you are about -it. - -There shall be a dinner given--a dinner which by a wise and palatable -arrangement of courses shall lead up to the game. - -Now, you know all about scallops, of course--and by "all" you mean -fried and served with tartar sauce. Bah! to you and your stereotyped -dishes. Novelty I beg of you, and then put in your way the means to do -as I beg. Do you appreciate it, I wonder? I doubt it. - - -Scallops in Shells - -Well, then, scallops after the bouillon. Cook them in a little white -wine till you know they are done. Then drain, cut them in halves or in -quarters and add to them half their quantity of minced onion fried -till tender, but not brown. Moisten with a little white sauce, season -with cayenne and salt, heap in scallop shells, cover with bread-crumbs -moistened with melted butter and brown in the hottest oven you can -arrange. - - -Salmi of Cold Partridge - -Whereas it is agreed that the pleasure of a repast must be -continuous--not jerky--let us plan for the next dish at your luncheon -salmis of partridge, cold. The birds must be roasted and then cooled. -Cut them into neat pieces, removing all the skin. Boil the skin and -all the odd bits in a little red wine and water. Season with salt and -a bay-leaf and thicken after it has boiled five minutes with a little -flour braided with butter. Take it off, lift out all the pieces of -meat and add enough aspic jelly to stiffen it. Set on ice and beat -till stiff, then dip into it the neatly trimmed pieces of partridge. -Dress them on a dish, using chop frills for the legs and set on ice -till the time comes for serving. - -At this sort of a luncheon you know you must have two dishes of game -and to let the first one be cold is doing the matter up as not one -neighbor in ten of yours would think of doing. - - -Chicken Liver Patties - -Now for the next link in this gastronomical harmony. Let it be chicken -liver patties. You know how to make the puff paste and how to line the -pans with it. Then you cook the desired number of chicken livers till -tender, drain off the water, cover them with a rich Spanish sauce in -which are as many sliced truffles as your means will allow. Of course -this must be hot when the patty pans are filled with it and then the -patties must be hot when they go to table. - - -Roasted Teal - -Now make way for the _pièce de résistance_. What shall it be? He sent -you blue-winged teal duck, you say? Couldn't be better. His intentions -towards you are of the best, you may depend. His blue-winged teal go -where his heart is every time, let me tell you. Into each bird you -will put a slice or two of toasted bread which has been soaked in any -red wine. Rub the inside of the bird well with salt. Roast in a piping -hot oven for twenty minutes, basting five times with melted butter. -Garnish with sliced lemon when serving. - - -Tomatoes Stuffed with Mayonnaise and Celery - -You will want tomato with celery and mayonnaise for this course, you -know. Have large, firm, fine tomatoes peeled carefully. Then cut a -round out of the top of each and scoop out all the seeds. Keep the -round whole, by the way. Fill each tomato with celery chopped and -mixed with mayonnaise. Clap on the top in which you have cut a tiny -hole in the centre and in this hole stick a little sprig of tender -green celery. - - -Macaroon Custards - -Only macaroon custards are good enough to be served at this point and -these you make by covering half a pound of macaroons with hot cream -first. When cool, beat well. Then add the yolks and whites beaten -separately of six eggs and a tablespoonful of brandy. Butter some -moulds, fill with the mixture and bake for ten minutes. Unmould on -lace paper before serving. Yes, of course, have them cold. Who wants -hot custard? - -For a drink? Cider cup. Not here, but elsewhere, a page or two away, -will you find directions for making this decoction. - - * * * * * - -A few pages back I related an account of some of the happenings of my -trip to market in search of game birds of the smaller kinds. Appended -to this recital were given in a more or less appetizing fashion a few -directions for preparing the birds which it seemed to me must find -favor with epicures and laymen alike; and, assuming that approval was -accorded these recipes, of which some were begged, others borrowed and -more stolen, I am giving herewith hints for use in the preparation of -the larger birds to be had now, with honors easy as to quantity and -quality. As to price, you may pay what you will, almost, from -seventy-five cents up to three and four and even five dollars per -pair. - -To begin with, there are the toothsome canvas-backs that lead in price -and palate-tickling properties. Now, I know quite as well as you that -not every one who pleases may dine from canvas-back when fancy -dictates; in fact, with nine out of ten householders something very -like a dispute takes place between the purse and the palate in every -instance where canvas-back forms the _pièce de résistance_ at dinner. -But the next time the palate wins in the debate go straightway to -market and secure its indulgence from a marketman who will give you -his oath that the canvas-backs he has on sale have fed on the banks -where the wild celery grows, _i. e._, along the Gunpowder River, a -tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, and you may feel sure that you have -the best the market affords. - - -Broiled Canvas-back - -As to the cooking. Wasn't it that wholly delightful old Colonel Carter -who laid it down as a law that to smother a canvas-back in jelly of -any sort or description was little short of criminal? And that he was -right there are scores of persons devoted to the art of good living -ready to attest. No; if you are to have the bird broiled, use a -double-broiler, leave over the fire ten minutes, eight will be better, -and serve with only a little melted butter having in it a soupçon of -lemon juice. There is nothing there, you see, to encroach upon the -delicate flavor of the duck. About two minutes before removing from -the fire sprinkle a little salt over the bird. - - -Roasted Canvas-back, Port Wine Sauce - -But if a roast of game seems to you better calculated to round out -your dinner scheme, then roast them, but don't have them too well done -('tis said the blood should follow the knife); and for a sauce have -some port wine heated in a bain-marie with a few drops of orange juice -added thereto. H'm, talk about being able to tempt a dying anchorite! -Sydney Smith may have thought it a great height attained to concoct a -salad calculated to make that abstemious old recluse dip his fingers -in the salad bowl, but for me, I'd a thousand times rather prepare a -dish fit to tickle the palate of a gourmet who is somewhat aweary of -good things; and I fancy that canvas-back so roasted and served is -quite capable of lending a fillip to the existence of those most -experienced in the joys to be found in eating. - -It's very sad, but it's also very true, that there are instances where -a redhead duck is foisted upon an unknowing and consequently -unsuspecting purchaser in place of a canvas-back. This is easily done, -because of the strong resemblance between them as to plumage and -habits, for the two kinds fly and feed in the same flock. But while -the flavor of the redhead is of a desirable quality, it in no way -approaches that of the canvas-back. - -In the cooking of the redhead duck, the rules given for preparing -canvas-backs may be followed, with the exceptions that in the melted -butter used for the broiled bird a little minced parsley will be an -improvement, and in the port wine sauce for the roasted duck currant -jelly may be melted and impart a flavor that will be generally liked. - - -Roasted Mallard Duck with Fried Celery - -A favorite duck with many good diners is the mallard, and when they -are in good condition they are quite worthy the favor shown them. It -is only a matter of choice whether they shall be roasted or broiled; -if the latter way is decided upon, then a garnishing of fried celery -makes a tempting dish more tempting still. Only the tender, smallest -stocks of celery should be used, and then, after being dipped in -frying batter, they should be fried quickly in butter. These birds, -and, in fact, all others, when being broiled or roasted, should not be -salted till about two minutes before removing from the fire. If the -salt is put on earlier the meat is apt to be tough and the quality of -the flavor somewhat injured. I don't know that cookery books give this -direction explicitly, but I have found from experience that it is the -case. - -If you are to have your mallards roasted, then by all means make a -sour-apple marmalade, strain it through a sieve and add to it half its -quantity of unsweetened whipped cream. If you have never tried this -sauce with roasted duck, then, my word for it, there is a -gastronomical delight waiting for you, and I wouldn't advise you to -keep it waiting long, for you will be the loser. - -Don't you recognize in this sauce an old friend in a new dress? Why, -of course, roast duck and apple sauce is a dish our great-grandmothers -were fond of; but this latter-day manner of preparing the sauce, you -see, idealizes it a bit and renders it so much the daintier. - -Another duck of delectable flavor is the ruddy duck, or broadbill, as -it is known in some localities. They live in the fresh ponds -hereabouts, and as long as the ponds remain unfrozen the ducks will be -quite satisfied with this climate. - -Teal ducks, too, especially the blue-winged, are of excellent flavor, -and, in addition to this, the meat is said to be highly nutritious and -easily digested, making them desirable for convalescents. There is -also a green-winged teal, but it is far inferior to the -first-mentioned variety. - -One cannot very well decide upon the particular kind of game and the -manner in which it shall be served without giving some thought to the -salad that in reality acts as its supplement. And the same rule which -forbids the serving of a rich, heavy sauce with game applies to -salads. The simpler the salad the more keenly will you relish the -game. Chopped celery, lettuce, chicory, watercress or cucumbers, with -a simple French dressing, are the salads _par excellence_ to be served -with game. - -By the way, not long ago some one wrote to a certain weekly published -in New York asking if it was "good form" to serve the game and the -salad on the same plate. It doesn't seem to me to be a matter in any -way to be governed by what is called "good form." Good taste and a -very superficial knowledge of epicureanism would enable their -possessor to understand that hot game should be hot, not lukewarm, and -that the salads should be cold, and the only way to accomplish this is -to have a plate for each. - - * * * * * - - -Sardine Canapé - -Cut some slices of bread from a not too fresh loaf, trim them to an -oblong shape, remove all crust and toast a delicate brown. Into a pat -of butter mix some finely chopped parsley, pepper and lemon juice, in -suitable proportions, and with the mixture coat the slices of toast. -Remove the skin and bones from the desired number of sardines and lay -them on the toast; garnish between the sardines with hard-boiled eggs, -chopped very finely, the whites and yolks separately. Sprinkle over -all some minced parsley and there you have a canapé--a sardine -canapé--one of the most delightful appetizers known to good diners of -this day and generation. Moreover it is a fitting beginning for a -Christmas dinner of the kind which I am about to submit for your -approval. - - -Chicken Consommé - -The wisdom of following the canapé with the simplest soup possible -will be quite apparent, if I mistake not, some time before the dinner -is a thing of the past. Why not, therefore, prepare it in this way? -Take a chicken, cut it in pieces and put it into a saucepan with two -quarts of water to simmer gently until the scum begins to rise, skim -until every particle is removed, then add salt, a carrot, an onion, -two slices of turnip and three celery stalks. Boil gently for two -hours, strain and serve, and your family and guests will have reason -to bless the hour when you set before them a chicken consommé. - - -Oysters Baked with Cheese - -After the soup? Well, suppose you lay in a deep dish fit to be placed -in the oven a bed of medium-sized oysters; season them with salt, -pepper, and a few small pieces of butter; sift over them some fresh -bread-crumbs and pour in a little sherry with some of the oyster -liquor; repeat the same operation until the dish is full, then -besprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs; scatter small pats of butter -here and there, and set the dish in a hot oven for fifteen minutes to -color a light brown, then serve, and serving be modestly proud of the -fact that you have prepared a dish which sometimes appears upon the -menu at Delmonico's as "Huîtres au Gratin à la Crane." Order it the -next time you are lunching or dining at that hostelry and compare -your effort with that of the famous chef at Delmonico's. For your -sake, as well as for my own, I trust that you will find that the -success turned out by your own cuisine gains by the comparison. - - -Goose Stuffed with Potato - -Are you still wavering in your opinion as to whether your choice shall -fall on turkey, ducks or goose for the Christmas dinner? Let it be -goose then, for if properly cooked and served they go far toward -clinching the success of the feast. But "properly cooked and served," -there's the rub. And isn't it enough to amaze a contemplative person -to note how wide apart are the conditions which different housekeepers -define by that phrase? Nevertheless I am going to tell you how it -seems to me a goose should be prepared to answer the description. If -the bird is of medium size then you will want to boil and mash eight -or ten large potatoes; to them add half a dozen small onions which -have been peeled and chopped as finely as possible; then season with -white pepper and salt to taste. Add at least half a pint of cream or -rich milk, about three ounces of melted butter, and three eggs beaten -to a froth. Whip the potato till it is light and smooth and fill the -inside of the goose with it. When it is sent to the table have it -garnished with very small onions which have been boiled till tender -without losing their shape, and then fried a light brown in butter. -Nothing can be better for a sauce than the giblets boiled till tender, -then chopped finely and returned to the water in which they were -boiled, with a little Madeira, and a gill of button mushrooms cut in -halves; thicken with a tablespoonful of browned flour braided with an -equal quantity of butter. - - -Turnips with Butter Sauce - -Although there may be in market a goodly showing of vegetables from -almost every part of the country, not everything is calculated to -supplement the flavor of roasted goose so well as is a sweet and -well-flavored turnip. Particularly is this the case if the turnips are -cut into fanciful shapes, such as dice, crescents, etc., with the -vegetable cutters, which come expressly for this purpose, boiled till -tender and then served with melted butter and chopped parsley poured -over them. - - -Victoria Sorbet - -Perhaps there are some housekeepers who will think I should suggest an -entrée to follow the goose, but at this season of the year I am -trying to live up to the golden rule, and as at this point I should -vastly prefer a punch or a sorbet to anything else, I am going to -recommend that you be guided by my preference. You may take one quart -of lemon water ice to which has been added the whites of three eggs -beaten to a froth, a gill of kirsch and half a pint of champagne, and -send to table in some of the pretty punch cups which formed one of -your Yule-tide gifts. You may also serve cigarettes at the same time, -and, my word for it, your guests at table assembled will have a keener -appetite for the next course than if you had sandwiched in some rich -entrée. - -With about nine out of every ten suburbanites raising pigeons in these -days it is very easy to understand why the squabs in the market are of -such good quality and are sold at such a reasonable price. And under -these circumstances don't you think they will be excellent for the -next course if broiled to a turn and accompanied by a salad of chicory -or watercress? - -After the squabs the sweets. Few housekeepers will think a Christmas -dinner complete without mince pies and plum-pudding, but I cannot -suggest a way in which to make them, for truth to tell, I never -prepared either, and I'm above offering you any recipes which I've not -tried, no matter how true they may be. Consult your cookery books if -you've not a favorite method of your own for preparing these aids to -indigestion, and select those that seem least harmful. - -Of course, there will be upon the table till dessert is served celery, -olives stuffed or plain, salted almonds or pecans, etc. I know that -you know this, but had I neglected to mention it more than likely you -would have accused me of being ignorant of the necessity of having -these side dishes at a dinner. - -After the sweets the biscuit, cheese and coffee, and if the cheese is -to be of a particularly rich flavor, such as Camembert, Roquefort, or -Brie, then by all means serve with it some of the little Bar-le-Duc -currants, both red and white. - -Are you to have wine? Then make it sherry with the soup, champagne -with the goose, and the very best burgundy to be had to accompany the -squabs. - -I fancy there is nothing more that I can suggest that will add to your -happiness or that of your guests, who will probably feel very -grateful to you for spreading for them a feast "delectable to eat and -to behold." For yourself, you will probably feel very grateful that -Christmas comes but once a year. - - * * * * * - -You shall not be put off with any side issue in these very last pages, -but shall have dished up for your critical examination a list that I -promise you shall be a hodge-podge, a mélange, or, if it please your -sense of the fitness of things better, a macédoine of the best edibles -the market affords. - -Doubtless when you have been in Western cities you have dined many a -time and oft at those sky-high restaurants overlooking one of the -Great Lakes, and have had the waiter, with an air of honesty made -perfect by practice, point out to you the very spot where the -whitefish you were at the minute admiring had been pulled in scarcely -three hours before. If so, you know the delicious and unapproachable -flavor of the fish in their purest and best estate. And yet they reach -eastern markets in a remarkable state of freshness and are inexpensive -enough to warrant any one in trying them for a change from the kinds -that are more common here. - - -Baked Whitefish - -Broiled over a hot fire and served with a simple sauce made of melted -butter, lemon juice and a sprinkling of cayenne they are good enough -to serve at any meal for anybody. But you can make a more elaborate -dish from them by going to work in this way: Scale a rather good-sized -fish, split it, remove the backbone, and then season the fish well -with salt and pepper, dip it in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, -again in beaten egg, and lay in a well buttered baking pan. Bake in a -hot oven till it is colored a good brown. Take it up on a hot dish, -set the baking pan having in it the hot butter on the top of the range -and cook in it for a minute or two half a pint of drained oysters; -arrange the oysters round the fish and pour a little melted butter -over all, with a garnishing of fried parsley. If you are having this -dish for luncheon, have with it some potato croquettes, but if it is -intended for dinner and a roast or rich entrée is to follow, then have -a dainty salad of crisp radishes with a handful of capers shaken over -them. - - -Boiled Cods' Tongues - -And now is the time if ever that fresh cods' tongues should find -favor. They are inexpensive and in perfect condition, and by more than -one gourmet are considered an unrivalled delicacy. If this statement -persuades you to give them a trial, just a word as to preparing them: -Have three pints of water boiling in a saucepan, add to it two carrots -and half a dozen onions very finely chopped, a few sprigs of parsley -and two gills of vinegar. When the vegetables are nearly tender enough -put into the saucepan with them two pounds of cods' tongues. Let them -boil just once, then move back where they will simmer but not boil for -twenty minutes or so. Take up the tongues, drain, dress them on a hot -dish and keep hot while you prepare the sauce. For this drain the -vegetables and toss them about in a frying-pan in plenty of butter -till they show signs of browning a bit, then add to them some chopped -cucumber pickles and a few capers and pour round the tongues. Season -the sauce, of course, with salt and pepper, and if you are gifted with -rare discretion in the matter of spices use ever so little nutmeg in -it; just one or two turns of the grater will give you all you should -have. I intend to be very particular in my choice of readers and -hearers when I suggest the use of nutmeg in savory sauces, because -there are so many housekeepers as well as cooks who positively are not -to be trusted with a nutmeg in one hand and a grater in the other; -they will persist in going on the principle that if a little is good -more must be better, and then grate away for dear life. - -Of course you know that smelts are in their prime, but is your sense -of smell keen enough to detect in that fish the likeness of its -fragrance to that of the violet or of the cucumber? Well, the -similarity is there if the fish be as fresh as it should, and if you -don't discover it you may add another to your list of misfortunes, for -they do say, those who know whereof they speak, that inability to -perceive this subtle scent indicates a correspondingly unappreciative -palate. And so much for my fish story. - - -Fried Partridge Breasts - -Along with the many things for which we have cause for rejoicing about -this time of year there should certainly be reckoned the fact that -game of almost all kinds is more plentiful and less expensive than at -other seasons. And you know that under such favorable circumstances -as these I am wont to urge you to make experiments in preparing the -viand in question. Suppose, for instance, that the next time you are -to have partridges you pretend to forget that these birds are ever -roasted or broiled, and so set to work to serve them in this way: Have -four partridges, cut off the breasts, divide them in two and lay them -aside; boil the legs and livers of the birds in salted water till they -are quite tender--so tender, in fact, that they can be pressed through -a rather coarse sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan with a gill of -the water used for boiling it, half a gill of sherry wine, a bit of -cayenne, an ounce of butter, and salt if it is needed. Let this get -hot, very hot, without boiling, and keep it hot while you cook the -breasts. These fry in butter and range in a circle on a dish with -alternate slices of bread also fried in butter, and in the centre pour -the sauce made from the legs and livers. To be sure, you can make the -sauce somewhat richer by adding to it chopped mushrooms or chopped -truffles or both. - - -Roasted Quails - -Forget, also, for a time, your favorite ways of cooking quails in -order that you may pronounce judgment on this manner of preparing -them: Have half a dozen of them drawn and singed for roasting. Chop up -the livers, double the quantity of chicken liver and as much minced -fat salt pork as liver; add chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, three or -four drops of onion juice, a tablespoonful of very fine bread-crumbs, -and one beaten egg. Mix these ingredients all well together and fill -the quails with it; roast them in a rather moderate oven for twenty -minutes, basting occasionally with melted butter. Dress the quails on -a hot dish, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the pan in which -they were roasted, adding a little melted butter, and pour this sauce -over the birds. - - -Roasted Duck Stuffed with Celery - -Or it may be that for yourself you prefer a roasted black duck, but -cannot gratify your preference because some members of the family will -insist upon calling such a bird "strong," when you know and speak of -the flavor only as being "gamey." Now, there's a way out of the -difficulty for all of you. Just stuff the birds as full as you can -with celery tops, tie thin slices of fat salt pork over their breasts -and roast them till they are quite tender and brown. You will find -the strong flavor entirely gone, while the gamey taste will be so -aided and abetted by the celery that your palate will receive a new -and altogether delightful sensation. Surround the ducks when serving -with a border prepared as follows: Brown some slices of bread in the -oven, and when of a good color and very dry, roll and pass through a -fine sieve, mix these crumbs with a little butter, season them with -salt and pepper and heat well in the oven before using. Serve with the -ducks also a hot apple sauce; make it as you always do and add to one -pint of sauce an ounce of butter. - -With either of the ways suggested for cooking game you will want to -serve a salad, probably, and you can't do better than decide to have -one of escarole or of romaine with a simple French dressing. But there -is chicory, of course, and there is lettuce, and both of them in fine -condition, if you don't feel inclined to take my advice. And there are -cucumbers, from hothouses, and there are hothouse tomatoes, that are -expensive or the reverse, according to one's position on the -financial question. In fact, you can get almost any kind of vegetable -or fruit in the large markets to-day, and at all times; and if the -particular thing that you desire happens to be absent, just wait a few -minutes and your order will be filled by lightning express from some -part of the world. - - - - -_Index_ - - - SOUPS - - PAGE - Asparagus 92 - Bisque of clams 89 - Chicken consommé 220 - Consommé with asparagus 197 - Purée of peas and spinach 79 - Savory tomato 87 - Soup, velvet 177 - - - FISH - - Bluefish, Newport style 169 - Cods' tongues, boiled 227 - Fresh cod, baked 9 - Fresh cod, broiled 9 - Fresh cod, Delmonico style 8 - Fresh cod, flaked, in tomato sauce 37 - Halibut, baked, with Parmesan 178 - Smelts, baked 167 - Smelts, broiled, Béarnaise sauce 167 - Smelts, fried, with parsley 168 - Trout, lake, boiled 50 - Whitefish, baked 226 - - - SMOKED OR SALT FISH - - Codfish with brown butter 44 - Codfish with cream 43 - Cods' tongues, fried 45 - Fillets of sole, casserole of 51 - Finnan haddies with cream 48 - Herring, fried 47 - Mackerel, boiled, horse-radish sauce 46 - Salmon, broiled 46 - - - SHELL FISH - - Clam cocktails 65 - Clams, West Island style 94 - Clams and lobsters in shells 95 - Lobster _à la_ Newberg 38, 130 - Lobster croquettes 131 - Lobster, devilled 129 - Lobster patties 134 - Lobster tartlets 130 - Lobster toast 129 - Lobster tails stuffed 131 - Oysters, baked 143 - Oysters, baked with cheese 220 - Oyster cocktails 142 - Oysters, creamed 37 - Oysters, celery roast 146 - Oysters, devilled and fried 145 - Oysters, pickled 147 - Oyster pie 146 - Oyster salad 17 - Oyster sandwiches 190 - Oyster soufflée 52 - Oysters, stewed, with cream 144 - Oysters, stuffed and fried 145 - Scallops in shells 210 - - - BEEF, MUTTON, LAMB, PORK, ETC. - - Beef tongue 112 - Cutlets, jellied 140 - Ham, roasted 5 - Ham toast 102 - Kidneys, en brochette 25 - Kidneys, fried, with mushrooms 26 - Kidneys, minced 27 - Lamb croquettes 23 - Lamb cutlets with mushrooms 135 - Lamb, roasted, with caper sauce 20 - Lamb, roasted, with macaroni 21 - Lamb, roasted, with onion purée 21 - Lamb steak 66 - Lamb steak, with Béarnaise sauce 67 - Lamb slices, broiled 22 - Lamb slices, fried with chutney 22 - Lamb slices, stewed with onions and mushrooms 22 - Lamb slices in chafing dish 23 - Liver, calf's, fried 28 - Pigs' feet, broiled 6 - Pork chops, broiled, sauce piquante 3 - Pork, roasted, onion sauce 4 - Sausages 2 - Veal cutlets, broiled 83 - - - POULTRY, GAME, ETC. - - Chicken cream (cold) 42, 138 - Chicken cream with tomato (cold) 139 - Chicken, fried, Italian style 159 - Chicken, fried with tomatoes 160 - Chicken, fried, cream sauce 100 - Chicken hash, baked 84 - Chicken livers, olive sauce 39 - Chicken liver patties 211 - Doe birds, roasted 111 - Duck, broiled canvas-back 214 - Duck, canvas-back, roasted, port wine sauce 215 - Duck, fillets, with orange sauce 207 - Ducks, roasted, with orange sauce 160 - Ducks, roasted, with olives 179 - Duck, stuffed with celery tops, roasted 230 - Duck, mallard, roasted, with fried celery 216 - Game tarts 111 - Goose pie 205 - Goose, roasted, potato stuffing 221 - Goose, stewed 206 - Grouse pie 119 - Grouse, roasted 176 - Partridge breasts, fried 229 - Partridge salmi (cold) 210 - Plover, roasted 120 - Quail, roasted 176, 230 - Teal (ducks), roasted 211 - Turkey in aspic 111 - Turkey legs, broiled 203 - Turkey legs, devilled and broiled 203 - Turkey, minced 205 - Turkey, minced with mushrooms 204 - - - VEGETABLES - - Asparagus, baked 77 - Asparagus tops with cheese 90 - Asparagus tops with cream 76 - Asparagus with savory sauce 77 - Cucumbers, fried 96 - Cucumbers, stuffed and baked 95 - Mushroom cannelons 198 - Oyster plant with cream 118 - Peas with mint 92 - Potato soufflée 67 - Potato omelet 204 - Squash, baked 206 - String beans with butter 199 - Tomatoes, broiled, devilled 161 - Tomatoes, broiled, on toast 162 - Tomatoes with celery and mayonnaise 212 - Turnips with butter sauce 222 - - - SALADS - - Apple and celery 162 - Asparagus 77, 88 - Brussels sprouts 16 - Cheese 193 - Duck 207 - Fish 208 - Herring 84 - Lamb 24 - Lettuce with chives 91 - Nut 18 - Oyster 17 - Red cabbage 14 - Sardine 16 - Spanish onion 15 - - - SWEET SALADS - - Fruit--general 107 - Fruit--summer 201 - Fruit--winter 18 - Pear 106 - Pear salad, No. 2 164 - Pineapple 106 - Strawberry 105 - - - EGG DISHES - - Baked 57 - Curdled in cream 55 - Eggs, curried 41 - Eggs, snow 62 - Epicurean style 56 - In tomato purée 58 - Omelet Célestine 61 - Omelet jelly 60 - Omelet, Spanish 59 - Omelet strawberries 60 - Omelet with caviare 58 - Omelet with chicken liver 59 - Omelette soufflée 62 - Scrambled with truffles 58 - Toast with Parmesan 57 - - - DESSERTS - - Almond pudding 53 - Charlotte, apricot 81 - Charlotte, macaroon 180 - Cream, banana 108 - Cream, coffee glacée 53 - Cream, gooseberry 102 - Cream, peach 108 - Cream, raspberry 108 - Macaroon custard 212 - Milk sherbet 123 - Musk melon jelly 114 - Omelet Célestine 61 - Omelet with jelly 60 - Omelet with strawberries 60 - Omelette soufflée 62 - Raspberries, crystallized 107 - Strawberries, frozen 91 - Strawberry fritters 103 - Strawberry jelly 105 - Strawberry pudding 104 - Strawberry sherbet 124 - Watermelon, iced 99 - - - ICE CREAMS AND ICES - - Champagne sherbet 125 - Champagne sherbet with strawberries 126 - Claret sherbet 126 - Coffee ice cream 123 - Currant sherbet 124 - Grape fruit sherbet 201 - Kirsch sherbet 127 - Peach sherbet 124 - Pineapple sherbet 124 - Rhubarb sherbet 81 - Victoria sorbet 223 - Wine ice cream 137 - - - FRUITS, COOKED - - Apple croquettes 3 - Apple salad 156 - Apple sauce with orange 163 - Apple sauce with whipped cream 163 - Apples, fried 155 - Apples in vanilla syrup 155 - Grape jam 149 - Peach cream 165 - Pears in vanilla syrup 157 - Pears stewed in claret 158 - Pears, stuffed 164 - Pears, stuffed stewed 158 - Peaches, brandied 154 - Peaches, stuffed 165 - Plums, brandied 153 - Plum jam 152 - Quince jelly 151 - Quince marmalade 150 - - - DRINKS - - Claret, hot, egg-nog 182 - Claret, hot, spiced 182 - Claret tipple 182 - Cider cup 186 - Cider egg-nog 185 - Cider punch 184 - Ginger lemonade 186 - Moss rose 115 - Orange punch 184 - Quince liqueur 185 - Rhine wine cup 186 - Rhine wine seltzer 186 - Soda cocktail 187 - Sherry egg-nog, hot 183 - Various cups 186 - - - MISCELLANEOUS - - Butters, savory 191 - Cider sauce 5 - Croquettes, macaroni 27 - Croquettes, sweet corn (canned) 11 - Golden buck 41 - Grape fruit with rum 201 - Hash, sublimated 12 - Jelly, savory 193 - Johnny cake, Rhode Island style 13 - Macaroni, timbales 51 - Macaroni with cheese 199 - Mayonnaise, with horse-radish 79 - Olives with caviare 78 - Partridge, sauce for 175 - Rice muffins 12 - Sandwiches, caviare 190 - Sandwiches, crust 191 - Sandwiches, fish 191 - Sandwiches, French 113 - Sandwiches, game 191 - Sandwiches, sweet 192 - Sardine canapé 219 - Sauce duchesse 80 - Sauce for calf's liver 29 - Sauce, onion 80 - Toast, anchovy 69 - Toast for game 174 - Toast, sardine 69 - Tunny fish 70 - Welsh rabbit 40 - - - INVALID COOKERY - - Barley, purée of 31 - Beef tea 32 - Chicken broth with oatmeal 31 - Chicken custard 33 - Chicken, sabayon of 32 - Cream soup 32 - Invalid's chop 35 - Rice, steamed 35 - Tapioca jelly 33 - Violet jelly 34 - - - - -_Works on Cookery_ - - -MRS. LINCOLN'S COOK BOOK - - New Edition. The Boston Cook Book. What to Do and What Not to Do - in Cooking. By MARY J. LINCOLN. With 51 illustrations. Revised - edition, including 250 additional recipes, 12mo. $2.00. - -It is the trimmest, best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible -manual of cookery as a high art, and as an economic art, that has -appeared.--_Independent._ - -It tells in the most ample and practical and exact way those little -things which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad -experience. _It ought to be in every household._--_Philadelphia -Press._ - - -CARVING AND SERVING - - Square 12mo. Illuminated board covers. 60 cents. - -What an advantage it must be to be able to place with the left hand a -fork in the breast of a turkey, and, without once removing it, with -the right hand to carve and dissect, or disjoint, the entire fowl, -ready to be helped to admiring guests! This is done by skilful -carvers. The book contains directions for serving, with a list of -utensils for carving and serving. - - -BOSTON SCHOOL KITCHEN TEXT-BOOK - - Lessons in Cooking for the use in Classes in Public and - Industrial Schools. 12mo. $1.00. - - -TWENTY LESSONS IN COOKERY - - Compiled from the Boston School Kitchen Text-Book. With Index. - Cards in envelope. 40 cents per set _net_. - - -THE PEERLESS COOK-BOOK - - One hundred pages of Valuable Receipts for Cooking, Compact and - Practical. 16mo. Paper covers. 15 cents. - - -MISS FARMER'S COOK BOOK. New Edition - - The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER, - Principal of the Boston Cooking-School, author of "Chafing Dish - Possibilities." New edition, with one hundred additional - receipts. Illustrated. 12mo. $2.00. - -Miss Farmer's Cook Book has constantly been growing in favor and is -now in the front rank. _The Congregationalist_ pronounces it -_thoroughly practical and serviceable_, and numerous authorities award -it the highest praise. It should be in every household. - -If one were asked off-hand to name the best cook book on the market it -would not be strange if "The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book" were -named.--_The New York Woman's World._ - -_The recipes are compounded with a knowledge of the science of -cooking_, and with due regard to the conservative public, which must -be wooed into a knowledge and appreciation of foods, not merely as -palate-ticklers, but as the builders and sustainers of the human -body.--_The Outlook._ - - -CHAFING DISH POSSIBILITIES - - By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER. 16mo. $1.00. - - Contents: I. Glimpses of Chafing Dishes in the Past; II. Chafing - Dish Suggestions; III. Toast, Griddle Cakes, and Fritters; IV. - Eggs; V. Oysters; VI. Lobsters; VII. Some Other Shell Fish; - VIII. Fish Réchauffés; IX. Beef; X. Lamb and Mutton; XI. - Chicken; XII. Sweetbreads; XIII. With the Epicure; XIV. - Vegetables; XV. Cheese Dishes; XVI. Relishes and Sweets; XVII. - Candies. - -It is a book that no one who entertains with the chafing dish will be -without.--_St. Paul Globe._ - -Her recipes have the merit of simplicity and newness.--_Los Angeles -Evening Express._ - -There have been many volumes of chafing dish recipes, but none which -is more appropriately adapted for the breakfast or lunch table, or for -small congenial parties. Every feature is distinctly new.--_Boston -Herald._ - -Nearly 250 recipes, all simply and clearly written.--_San Francisco -Chronicle._ - - -SALADS, SANDWICHES, AND CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES - - By JANET MCKENZIE HILL, editor of "The Boston Cooking-School - Magazine." With 33 half-tone illustrations from photographs of - original dishes. 12 mo. Cloth, extra. $1.50. - -To the housewife who likes new and dainty ways of serving food, this -book will simply be a godsend. There must be more than a hundred -different varieties of salad among the recipes--salads made of fruit, -of fish, of meat, of vegetables, and made to look pretty in scores of -different ways. There are also instructions for making different kinds -of lemonades and other soft drinks, and for making breads and rolls in -the truly artistic cooking-school style.--_Washington Times._ - -Sensible and practical.--_Chicago Evening Post._ - -Many of the dishes are new to the average housewife.--_Philadelphia -Times._ - -A most attractive volume. The subjects are presented in a clear and -pleasing form, and are beautifully illustrated from photographs of -original dishes.--_Advance._ - -Her recipes are founded upon scientific principles, her directions are -clear and uncomplicated, and are reliable.--_Brooklyn Times._ - -The very attractive form of the book fits it to go along with the -pretty adjuncts of the chafing dish supper.--_The Dial._ - -It is a thoroughly practical work and will be cordially welcomed in -every household where new and dainty ways of preparing food are -appreciated.--_Boston Globe._ - -Wholesome dishes that will please capricious appetites. Some of these -recipes will also appeal to the taste of invalids.--_Vogue._ - - -I GO A-MARKETING - - By HENRIETTA SOWLE ("Henriette"). 12mo. Cloth. $1.50. - -Miss Sowle has for some time been a valued writer for the _Boston -Transcript_, and her articles published under the title of "I Go -A-Marketing" have been found helpful and suggestive to those who are -interested in dainty and palatable dishes. Her book is not a cook-book -in the ordinary sense but aims to give novel and delicious ways of -serving the many good things which may be found each month in the year -by those who "go a-marketing." - - -HELEN CAMPBELL'S WRITINGS - -THE EASIEST WAY IN HOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING - - Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes. New revised - edition. 16mo. $1.00. - -IN FOREIGN KITCHENS - - With choice recipes from England, France, Germany, Italy, and - the North. 16mo. 50 cents. - -THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB - - A Story for Girls. 16mo. $1.50. - -MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME - - A Novel. 16mo. $1.50. - -MISS MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY - - A Story for Girls. 16mo. $1.00; paper, 50 cents. - -PRISONERS OF POVERTY - - Women Wage-Workers, their Trades, and their Lives. 12mo. $1.00. - -PRISONERS OF POVERTY ABROAD - - 16mo. $1.00; paper, 50 cents. - - She went among the workers and the employers, and her statements are - based upon personal knowledge of the facts....--_Boston Post._ - -ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION - - A Story. 12mo. $1.00; paper, 50 cents. - -SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH - - 16mo. $1.00. - - This work directs attention to the physical and spiritual value of - foods. - -WOMEN WAGE-EARNERS - - Their Past, their Present, and their Future. 16mo. $1.00. - - - LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY - Publishers · 254 Washington Street, Boston - - - - -Transcriber's Note - -The original book used sidenotes to indicate recipe names. In this -version of the e-book, the transcriber has rendered the recipe names -as sub-headings for ease of reading. - -The table of contents has been added by the transcriber for the -convenience of the reader. - -Minor punctuation errors have been repaired. - -Several terms appear variously with a hyphen or a space--bread-crumbs -and bread crumbs, chafing-dish and chafing dish, egg-plant and egg -plant, horse-radish and horse radish, etc. These are preserved as -printed. Hyphenation has otherwise been made consistent. - -The author uses some variant spelling, for example, curaçoa or bran -new. There are also some inconsistencies--omelet and omelette, soufflé -and soufflée, piquant and piquante. These are all preserved as -printed. - -There are some small inconsistencies between recipe names in the main -body of the book and those in the index. These are all preserved as -printed. - -On page 29, the word chevril (a type of horse tea) occurred. As it -appeared in a paragraph referencing several herbs as seasoning, it has -been amended to chervil, on the assumption that that was actually the -intended word. - -On page 216 is the phrase "tender, smallest stocks of celery." This -may be an error for "stalks of celery," or it could be that the -intention was to refer to a store of celery or the availability of -it. As there is no way to sure, it is preserved as printed. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of I Go A-Marketing, by Henrietta Sowle - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK I GO A-MARKETING *** - -***** This file should be named 55566-8.txt or 55566-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/5/6/55566/ - -Produced by Emmy, MFR, Sam W. and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive). 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