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-Project Gutenberg's Peeps at Royal Palaces of Great Britain, by Beatrice Home
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Peeps at Royal Palaces of Great Britain
-
-Author: Beatrice Home
-
-Release Date: August 28, 2017 [EBook #55450]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT ROYAL PALACES ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chris Curnow, Lesley Halamek and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: _Frontispiece_
-
-THE TOWER OF LONDON.
-
-The Bloody Tower and the Wakefield Tower, in which the Crown Jewels
-are kept.]
-
-
-
-
- PEEPS AT
-
- ROYAL PALACES
-
- OF
-
- GREAT BRITAIN
-
-
- BY
-
- BEATRICE HOME
-
-
- CONTAINING 8 FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
- IN COLOUR AND 21 LINE DRAWINGS
- IN THE TEXT
-
-
- LONDON
- ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
- 1913
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE
-
-
-If a palace be a royal residence, as the dictionary defines it, then
-nearly all the famous castles of England would come under that title,
-for the Norman and Plantagenet Kings were constantly moving from one
-stronghold to another during the unsettled period of the Middle Ages.
-Until the fifteenth century, both the English and Scottish Kings
-resided in impregnable castles or fortified houses, but their sojourn
-was never long in one place. After the Wars of the Roses had crushed
-the power of the great nobles, it was no longer necessary for the
-monarch to dwell within a fortress, and it was then that the gracious
-and commodious palaces of Whitehall, Hampton Court, and Greenwich,
-arose in England. The Scottish Kings, having at the same time
-reached a greater control over their headstrong nobles, also began
-transforming their castles into palaces, and to erect Holyrood and
-Falkland to gratify their desire for more luxurious residences.
-
-Within the compass of this small book, it would have been impossible
-to detail every castle in which a monarch ever resided, so that it has
-been thought better to confine attention to those palaces which were
-owned, and most constantly used by the Kings and Queens of England and
-Scotland.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
- CHAPTER PAGE
-
- I. WESTMINSTER PALACE 5
-
- II. WINDSOR CASTLE 11
-
- III. THE TOWER OF LONDON 19
-
- IV. KENNINGTON PALACE 22
-
- V. ELTHAM PALACE 24
-
- VI. GREENWICH PALACE 27
-
- VII. WHITEHALL PALACE 31
-
- VIII. HAMPTON COURT PALACE 39
-
- IX. ST. JAMES'S PALACE 48
-
- X. KENSINGTON PALACE 53
-
- XI. KEW PALACE 59
-
- XII. BUCKINGHAM PALACE 63
-
- XIII. VANISHED PALACES 67
-
- XIV. EDINBURGH CASTLE 72
-
- XV. DUNFERMLINE CASTLE 76
-
- XVI. STIRLING CASTLE 78
-
- XVII. HOLYROOD PALACE 82
-
- XVIII. LINLITHGOW PALACE 87
-
- XIX. FALKLAND PALACE 91
-
- XX. BALMORAL CASTLE 94
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-IN COLOUR
-
-
- THE TOWER OF LONDON _Frontispiece_
-
- FACING PAGE
-
- WINDSOR CASTLE 17
-
- HAMPTON COURT PALACE 24
-
- EDINBURGH CASTLE 73
-
- STIRLING CASTLE 80
-
- LINLITHGOW PALACE 91
-
- BALMORAL CASTLE 94
-
- ST. JAMES'S PALACE _On the cover_
-
-
-
-
-ROYAL PALACES OF GREAT BRITAIN
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I
-
-WESTMINSTER PALACE
-
-
-Scarcely anything remains to-day to remind us of the vast size and the
-magnificence of the Palace of Westminster, the royal residence of the
-English Kings from the time of Edward the Confessor until the reign
-of Henry VIII. For five centuries the monarchs of England kept their
-Court on the island of Thorney, within the sound of the bells of the
-great minster raised by the piety of the saintly Edward. Though the
-early Kings were seldom long in one place, they regarded Westminster
-as their principal palace, and often kept their Christmas festivals
-there, a time of general feasting at the royal expense.
-
-Cnut is supposed to be the first King to settle at Westminster,
-whither he had gone, after his conversion to Christianity, to be near
-his friend Abbot Wolfstan, and we are told that the incident of his
-rebuke to his courtiers concerning the tide occurred on the shores of
-the River Thames. At that time Westminster was surrounded by water,
-being built on the island of Thorney, an islet that rose out of the
-low-lying marshy ground overspread by the wide and unembanked river.
-
-It is customary to attribute the ruin of the many beautiful and
-stately buildings of past ages, to the agency of civil wars, the
-fanatical zeal of Protestant reformers, or the carelessness of the
-Cromwellian soldiers; but far more deadly foes than the cannon-balls
-of enemies or the mistaken energies of religious zealots, were
-the destructive fires that time and again destroyed the splendid
-structures that adorned the vanished centuries. Westminster, though
-immune from other foes, suffered terribly from fires, which have
-robbed us of the greatest part of one of the most picturesque of
-palaces. Just after Edward I. had finished repairing his royal
-dwelling a huge fire broke out, so tremendous that the palace was
-rendered uninhabitable, obliging the King to accept the hospitality
-of York Place, the London house of the Archbishops of York. Edward II.
-rebuilt the palace, which remained the main royal residence until a
-disastrous fire in 1512 drove the monarchs away for ever. Though
-much was destroyed, a considerable part of the King's house remained,
-together with the beautiful chapel of St. Stephen and the great hall
-of the palace; but yet another fire attacked this remnant in 1834.
-From this last conflagration only Westminster Hall, the crypt of the
-chapel, and an old tower (now hidden away among the narrow byways of
-the abbey precincts) survived.
-
-The Palace of Westminster, described by Camden as "large and
-magnificent, a building not to be equalled in that age," was of great
-extent, stretching from the abbey to the river. It consisted of a mass
-of rambling buildings erected with little regard to any fixed
-plan, but resulting in a picturesque medley of gabled roofs, carved
-stonework, delicate window tracery, noble halls, and exquisite
-chapels. Medieval palaces required to be large, for all the King's
-work was done upon his own premises. Bakers, brewers, chandlers,
-armourers, blacksmiths, carpenters, furriers, masons, gardeners,
-barbers, stablemen, embroiderers, weavers--all lived and worked within
-the palace walls, and received wages and lodging. As Sir Walter Besant
-tells us, in his fascinating history of Westminster, the palace was
-"a crowded city, complete in itself, though it produced nothing
-and carried on no trade; there were workshops and forges and the
-hammerings of armourers and blacksmiths, but there were no stalls,
-no chepe, no clamour of those who shouted their goods and invited the
-passengers to 'Buy, buy, buy.'" Within this city, crowded within a
-confined space, dwelt about fifteen thousand people all occupied
-with the King's business, from the judges, bishops, and high State
-officials, down to humble laundry-women.
-
-A strongly-fortified wall ran all round the palace, for medieval Kings
-needed their royal residences to be places of defence as well as of
-regal splendour. There were gates leading to the Abbey, to Whitehall,
-and to the river, where the King's barges lay to take him down to
-the Tower of London in the city, or up the river towards Windsor.
-Immediately beyond the busy throng of the palace and the monastic
-buildings of the Abbey, lay green fields and pleasant rural scenes.
-Between the palace and the noisy city, a mile away, stood palatial
-houses of the great nobles and bishops, facing the broad and sparkling
-Thames.
-
-Of all the beautiful buildings that once formed the extensive palace
-only the great hall remains, now known as Westminster Hall. William
-Rufus built it in 1097, declaring that, large though it might appear,
-it was "but a bedchamber" in comparison to what he intended to make.
-But practically nothing is left of the work of Rufus, for we learn
-that three hundred years later, in 1397, Richard II. ordered the
-"walls, windows, and roof to be taken down and new made." The
-following year Richard, the most magnificent of the English Kings,
-kept his royal Christmas in the newly finished hall. Dressed in cloth
-of gold, adorned with pearls and precious stones, Richard entertained
-ten thousand people, necessitating the purchase of twenty-eight oxen,
-three hundred sheep, and numberless fowls every day for the feeding of
-his guests. He little thought that a few months hence the Parliament
-meeting in that very hall would depose him.
-
-This famous hall has witnessed some of the most spectacular, splendid,
-and tragic events in the history of the nation, from the Coronation
-banquets held within its walls, a-glitter with gorgeous raiment
-and all the pageantry of the past, to the sombre procedure of State
-trials. Perhaps the best remembered scene is that of the trial of
-Charles I., who had been brought hurriedly from Windsor, and was
-lodged during his trial in part of the old palace, then used as
-the residence of Sir Ralph Cotton. Standing, a monarch tried by his
-subjects, Charles Stuart remains for all time a dignified figure, not
-deigning to plead before such a self-constituted Court.
-
-For many centuries justice was administered from the hall, judges
-sitting in different parts determining Chancery cases or those of
-Common Pleas.
-
-The most-to-be-regretted loss caused by the fire of 1834 is that of
-the chapel royal of the palace, the chapel of St. Stephen. From
-an account of its architectural detail, which has fortunately been
-preserved, one gathers that it was a most beautiful and exquisite
-piece of work, as rich and stately as any in the country. King Stephen
-is supposed to have founded it, but Edward I. rebuilt it, only to have
-his building burnt down a few years later. His grandson, Edward III.,
-restored it in such splendour that, as Camden says, "he seems rather
-to have been the founder than only the repairer." He made it a
-collegiate church, endowing it with so much wealth after his victories
-in France that it almost rivalled its wealthy neighbour, the Abbey of
-Westminster. Indeed, this royal munificence brought about considerable
-quarrelling with the Abbey, whose inmates grudged the Masses being
-said at St. Stephen's, when they might have been said in the Abbey and
-so enriched their coffers. In this new chapel Richard II. married his
-first wife, Anne of Bohemia.
-
-[Illustration: Westminster Hall.
-
-From an engraving by Hollar.]
-
-At the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the King granted to the Commons
-of England, who had hitherto met in the Chapter House of Westminster
-Abbey, the use of St. Stephen's Chapel, and there they have met ever
-since, except once during the reign of Charles I. For the reception of
-the members the beautiful chapel was ruthlessly altered, but enough of
-the original work remained to make the fire of 1834 a disaster to all
-lovers of graceful architecture. The present House of Commons is built
-upon the site of the old collegiate buildings, and only the crypt of
-the church remains to remind us of the royal chapel of our Plantagenet
-Kings.
-
-All the other historic rooms have vanished. Nothing is left of the
-Painted Chamber, where Edward the Confessor died, the long room whose
-painted walls depicted the story of the Confessor's life upon one
-side, while the other was devoted to the Wars of the Maccabees. These
-paintings were unknown until 1800, when the tapestry that covered them
-was removed, and thus revealed the meaning of the room's designation.
-Gone, too, is the old House of Lords, used by the peers until the
-Commonwealth, where the famous tapestry representing the defeat of
-the Spanish Armada was hung. In the vaults underneath, originally the
-Confessor's kitchen, Guy Fawkes and his fellow-conspirators stored the
-barrels of gunpowder with which to blow up the Parliament. After the
-Restoration the Lords removed to the White Hall of the palace,
-taking the Armada tapestry with them, which, together with so much of
-fascination and historic interest, perished in the all-embracing fire
-of 1834.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II
-
-WINDSOR CASTLE
-
-
-Standing upon a steep chalk cliff that rises abruptly from the River
-Thames, Windsor Castle towers above the low-lying river meadows, and,
-looking beyond the town that clusters round it, gazes proudly over
-twelve adjacent counties. For more than eight centuries a castle has
-stood upon this cliff-top, the defensive qualities of such a perfect
-natural stronghold having appealed to all the royal rulers of England.
-
-In Saxon times the mound was defended by some kind of wooden palisade,
-which William the Conqueror replaced with stone, nothing of which
-now remains. Henry II., the first of the Plantagenet Kings, built his
-palace there, erecting it upon what is known to-day as the Upper Ward,
-the castle being divided into three distinct sections or tiers. The
-Upper Ward, situated upon a higher level of the plateau, is separated
-from the Lower Ward by the Round Tower, which stands upon a mound in
-the centre.
-
-Perhaps the most exciting times that the castle ever witnessed took
-place in the reign of John; certainly one of the most important events
-in the history of the English people is connected with its grey walls.
-John had filled the castle with mercenary troops, with which to defend
-himself against his insurgent barons. Protected by these foreigners,
-who fought with extreme bravery, the castle sustained two sieges, the
-only active warfare in which it took any serious part. Owing doubtless
-to its almost impregnable situation before the days of artillery, it
-remained calm and secure, however disturbed other parts of the kingdom
-might be. One summer day in the year 1215 King John, overawed by the
-great gathering of armed barons within sight of his castle, left his
-stronghold on the hill, and full of rage rode down to the meadow of
-Runnymede, near Staines. There he was forced to sign the Great Charter
-of English Freedom, an action which reduced him to such a pitch of
-impotent fury that when he reached the castle again, he rolled on the
-ground, gnawing sticks and straws.
-
-It is to John's son, Henry III., that the present aspect of the castle
-is due, for though walls and towers have been rebuilt since his
-time, the general appearance remains the same. He was the first great
-builder, and beginning early with a reign of over fifty years
-before him, he was able to carry out his extensive building schemes.
-Deserting the Upper Ward, where all his predecessors had lived, he
-built his palace on the Lower plateau, also erecting a chapel on the
-site of St. George's. Less than a century after his death palace and
-chapel had vanished, fallen into a rapid decay, so that almost the
-only records of his work to-day are to be found in the Curfew Tower,
-and the Cloisters.
-
-The first King to be born at Windsor was Edward III., who spent great
-sums upon his palace, practically rebuilding the whole castle. Being a
-great warrior, loving war and glory, he became enamoured with the idea
-of founding an Order of Knighthood that should become as illustrious
-as that of King Arthur, who was believed to have some connection with
-Windsor. A Round Tower was built upon the mound, to hold the Round
-Table, and great festivities were held there in 1344, but this
-Round Table idea forms no part of the great Order--the Order of the
-Garter--instituted in 1348. It is thought that Froissart confused
-these two celebrations.
-
-[Illustration: Windsor Castle: Entrance to the Horseshoe Cloisters.]
-
-Under the superintendence of William of Wykeham, afterwards the great
-Bishop of Winchester, but employed by Edward III. as his surveyor
-of works, the Lower Ward was entirely given up to the service of St.
-George, the patron saint of the new Order. This involved the building
-of a new palace, which was erected upon the Upper Ward, hitherto
-merely walled and left vacant. At the time when these great building
-schemes were in progress, there were two captive Kings within the
-castle, for Edward did not entirely devote his energy to palace
-building, which merely formed a pleasing interlude to the long and
-ambitious wars which occupied his life. David II. of Scotland had been
-captured at Neville's Cross in 1346, and ten years later John, the
-King of France, joined him at Windsor, having fallen to the Black
-Prince at Poitiers. It is said that Edward, while walking with his
-prisoners, discussed with them the building of his new palace. They
-suggested that it would look more regal if it stood upon the Upper
-Ward, at which Edward cynically remarked that it should be erected at
-the cost of their ransoms. But as King John's ransom was never paid,
-and Scotland was too poor a country to provide much even to redeem
-their King, Edward was obliged to do most of the paying of the bill
-himself.
-
-Good Queen Philippa, the sweet woman who had been the gentle
-inspiration of Edward's life, fell ill at Windsor in August, 1369, an
-illness of which there was "no remedy but death," says Froissart, who
-writes very sympathetically of her last moments. Edward, the bravest
-knight in Christendom, stood weeping at her bedside as she whispered
-to him her last requests, that he should pay her debts, carry on her
-charities, and be buried beside her. Froissart tells us that "in all
-her life she did neither in thought, word, nor deed, things whereby
-to lose her soul." So that he was confident that "the holy angels
-received her with great joy up to heaven."
-
-During the reign of Henry V., Windsor again became a royal
-prison-house, Scotland's youthful King, James I., spending about ten
-years of his life there. He had been captured when quite a lad on his
-way to France to be educated, and had received a good education at
-the hands of his captors, who had treated him kindly, allowing him
-considerable liberty. While at Windsor he met his future queen, then
-the Lady Joan Beaufort, the daughter of the Earl of Somerset, whom
-he describes in his poem, "The King's Quair," as "the fairest and
-freshest youthful flower" he had ever seen. After his release in 1424,
-they were married in Southwark Cathedral, setting off immediately
-afterwards for Scotland.
-
-"The Royal Saint," as Henry VI. has been called, did not spend time
-or money upon his palace at Windsor, but was enthusiastic over the
-founding of Eton College, which he erected on the opposite bank of the
-winding river, so that he could see it from his palace windows. In his
-zealous activity to make this college worthy of the Virgin Mary, in
-whose honour it had been founded, poor King Henry forgot his kingdom,
-and found himself deposed long before his schemes were perfected. He
-lies buried in St. George's Chapel, under a plain stone slab, having
-been brought thither from Chertsey Abbey by Richard III., who did not
-care for miracles to be performed at his victim's grave, and preferred
-to have the body under his own observation.
-
-As a form of penitence for having waded "through slaughter to a
-throne," Edward IV. is said to have erected the beautiful chapel
-dedicated to St. George, which replaced the one built by Edward III.
-One of the finest specimens of pure Perpendicular architecture in
-England, it is the most impressive and stately building enclosed
-within the walls of Windsor Castle. Its glorious fan tracery is only
-rivalled by Henry VIII.'s Chapel at Westminster and King's College
-Chapel, Cambridge--all three being built during the latter half of
-the fifteenth century. But the choir, perhaps, attracts more attention
-than any other part of the chapel, for there are to be found the
-richly-carved stalls allotted to the use of the Knights of the Order
-of the Garter. Above each stall is placed the helmet of the Knight,
-while his splendidly emblazoned banner hangs over it. At his death
-the helmet and banner are removed, but his gilded brass plate upon the
-back of the stall remains, so that upon these stalls can be seen the
-gilded plates of some of the most illustrious names in history.
-
-The succeeding monarchs from Edward IV. to the time of Elizabeth did
-little either to alter or adorn their palace by the shining Thames.
-Henry VIII., who was very fond of Windsor and often resided there till
-he obtained Hampton Court Palace from his great Minister, Cardinal
-Wolsey, rebuilt the main entrance to the Lower Ward which is known by
-his name. In the vault beneath the choir of St. George's bluff King
-Hal found a resting-place beside Jane Seymour, his third wife, but no
-monument has been raised to his memory.
-
-Almost the only part of the palace which has remained unaltered since
-its erection is the Royal Library, part of the building facing the
-North Terrace. Built by Queen Elizabeth as a picture gallery, it is a
-fine specimen of a Tudor room, with a beautiful ceiling and a handsome
-stone chimney-piece. It is said that the "Merry Wives of Windsor" was
-first performed in this gallery, the play having been written in a
-fortnight at the Queen's command that Shakespeare should write a play
-about Sir John Falstaff in love. The Virgin Queen is also responsible
-for the North Terrace, on to which the gallery opened.
-
-[Illustration: WINDSOR CASTLE
-
-Has been a stronghold of importance since Saxon times. St. George's
-Chapel, whose long roof-line can be seen in the picture, was built by
-Edward IV.]
-
-During the Civil War the castle was held by the Parliamentary forces,
-whose mere presence behind the strong walls was sufficient to repel
-Prince Rupert, Charles I.'s headstrong nephew, who had hoped with a
-small body of horse to surprise the castle. No further attempt was
-made by the Royalists to capture the royal fortress, to which King
-Charles was brought as a prisoner in December, 1648. For three years
-the unhappy King had been a captive, driven from prison to prison,
-Windsor being his last resting-place before his trial and death in
-London. Charles must have become aware that dangers were thickening
-round him, when, having refused to admit Denbigh bearing the last
-overtures of the Army, all ceremonies of State were omitted, his meals
-no longer being served to him on bended knee. After the tragedy at
-Whitehall, the body of the King was brought to Windsor and buried
-hurriedly one snowy February morning, in the vault below the choir,
-by the side of Henry VIII. At the Restoration £70,000 was voted by
-the Parliament to erect a fitting memorial, but for some unexplained
-reason his coffin could not be found, though two of the Lords who had
-carried his body to the grave were still living. Though the leaden
-coffin was identified in 1813, no monument has yet been raised to the
-most unfortunate if also the most unwise of British sovereigns.
-
-His son, Charles II., employed Sir Christopher Wren to make additions
-to the palace. Much of this work still remains practically as it was
-in the days of the Merry Monarch, for whose dining-room (now called
-the State Ante-room) Verrio painted the ceiling and Grinling Gibbons
-carved the walls.
-
-No monarch is more intimately associated with Windsor than George
-III., who loved the place which had been cordially disliked and
-neglected by his two predecessors. So complete had been the neglect,
-that the castle was quite unfit for habitation, obliging the Royal
-Family, during the process of repairs, to live in an ugly stuccoed
-building known as the Queen's Lodge, built on the site of the present
-royal stables. Owing to the minute chronicle of their daily events in
-the diary of Fanny Burney, we know exactly what the good commonplace
-King and Queen did and said during their residence at Windsor. So much
-had Queen Charlotte admired "Evelina," that she thought no greater
-honour could be done to the gifted authoress than to make her a
-dresser to her royal self, a condescension which almost overwhelmed
-shy Fanny Burney, who accepted the post, little dreaming of the
-drudgery it entailed. Everything went by routine in the Court life:
-the same things were done every day at precisely the same time they
-were done the day before, with a monotony which Thackeray declares
-must have rendered the life, frugal and virtuous as it was, stupid to
-a degree which he shuddered to contemplate. Poor King George spent
-the last ten years of his life, hopelessly insane and quite blind,
-confined in rooms overlooking the North Terrace, and was buried in the
-new tomb-house which he had cut in the solid chalk, under what is now
-known as the Albert Memorial Chapel.
-
-George IV. carried on the repairs commenced by his father, living
-meanwhile in a lodge in the park. Over a million pounds was spent
-upon the alterations and furnishing of the royal apartments. When Sir
-Jeffry Wyattville, the architect to whom the work had been entrusted,
-had completed his task, Windsor Castle appeared exactly as it does
-to-day. The walls and towers had been repaired and refaced, the brick
-buildings within the walls had been cleared away, the Round Tower
-raised by forty feet so that it dominated the whole pile, and the
-present State apartments built on the south and eastern sides of the
-Upper Ward.
-
-Though Windsor Castle cannot claim so fascinating or romantic a
-history as that of other royal palaces, yet it can boast that while
-its more picturesque rivals have either vanished or ceased their
-careers as palaces, it alone remains a royal residence with a story
-stretching back to the Normans. Majestic in its calm serenity, it
-remains, as Leigh Hunt used to say, "a place to receive monarchs in."
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III
-
-THE TOWER OF LONDON
-
-
-There are no myths or legends connected with the building of London's
-great fortress, the clear light of history beats upon the erection of
-its walls. It was built by William the Conquerer, not as a protection
-for the city, but as a proof of his dominating power over the subdued
-but possibly troublesome citizens. Part of the Roman wall which
-encircled the city was removed, and the tower rose into being upon the
-easternmost corner of Saxon London, right on the shore of the River
-Thames, the great highway from the sea. Various additions were made by
-succeeding monarchs down to Edward III., until it assumed the shape
-we now see it, with the solid Norman keep in the centre, an inner wall
-with twelve towers, protected by a strong outer wall surrounded by a
-deep moat. Only four gateways gave entrance to the fortress, and those
-were strongly guarded by towers. Any enemy attempting to enter from
-Tower Hill had to force his way across three branches of the moat,
-with three successive towers before he could reach the inner wall of
-the citadel. There were three gateways from the river, a small postern
-gate for the use of State visitors, the main water gate, which earned
-the ominous title of Traitor's Gate, due to the frequent arrival of
-State prisoners, and another entrance east of the Traitor's Gate.
-
-Owing to its immense strength it was more commonly used by the Kings
-during times of civil war, when from behind its bastioned walls they
-could bid defiance to the surging mobs outside. John, Edward II.,
-Henry VI., and Edward IV. all retreated there for safety during their
-troublous reigns, but it is with Richard II., the boy-King, that we
-associate one of the most dangerous episodes in the eventful life
-of the city. One midsummer day in 1381 a frenzied mob of countrymen
-swarmed on Tower Hill, demanding, with no uncertain voice, a redress
-of grievances. Within the Tower there was great hesitation, the
-councillors of fifteen-year-old Richard vacillating between a sally
-with force upon the ill-armed peasants and a granting of their just
-demands. With something of the insistence of the market-women of Paris
-when they swarmed up to the gates of Versailles, the savage crowd
-gained admittance into the Tower, searching for their supposed enemy,
-the Archbishop of Canterbury, who, as the chief lawyer in England,
-represented the men who enslaved and starved them. Seizing the poor
-old man, they dragged him out to Tower Hill, and, with their summary
-judgment, cut off his head then and there. The story of how Richard
-saved the situation at Smithfield after the death of Wat Tyler is well
-known.
-
-Nothing now remains of the palace where the Plantagenet Kings held
-their Court. It was situated between the White Tower and the Wakefield
-and Lanthorn Towers. Scarcely used after the reign of Henry VII., save
-for three days previous to the Coronation procession through the city,
-it was completely demolished in the reign of William and Mary, every
-fragment being removed.
-
-[Illustration: The Keep, or White Tower.]
-
-The most romantic as well as the most pathetic incidents in the
-history of the Tower are connected with its forlorn prisoners,
-doomed to long incarceration or speedy death at the will of despotic
-monarchs. Even the sovereigns themselves were often captives within
-its walls. The two young Princes, Edward V. and his brother Richard,
-entered the Tower under the nominal protection of their uncle Richard
-III., never to appear again. Anne Boleyn returned as a prisoner to
-the place which she had formerly entered in triumph just before her
-Coronation. Retaining her gay spirit to the end, Anne laughingly
-remarked that she had a little neck, when told that death by execution
-was quite painless. During the reign of her sister Mary, Queen
-Elizabeth was brought through the Traitor's Gate to the Tower, where
-she was confined for some time under suspicion of being implicated in
-Sir Thomas Wyatt's rebellion.
-
-Though ceasing to be a royal palace, and of little use as a fortress,
-the Tower retained its position as a State prison until 1820, becoming
-since then merely a barracks and a guard-house for the Crown jewels.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV
-
-KENNINGTON PALACE
-
-
-No royal house has more completely vanished from sight, and even from
-memory, than the royal palace of Kennington. Few know that such a
-palace ever existed, and certainly those who dwell upon its site would
-require to be possessed of keen imaginations, to realize that once all
-the pageantry of a medieval Court took place, where to-day monotonous
-streets crowd upon one another. Yet Parliaments assembled and all
-the ceremonies of State were performed on a spot not far from where
-Kennington Park now stands. The whim of royal fancy was the cause of
-the complete obliteration of the palace, other royal houses pleasing
-the later Kings more than the one upon Lambeth Marsh. Low-lying
-ground, only redeemed from complete marshland by the embankment of the
-river, lay between it and the City of London on the north. As it was
-not until quite the end of the eighteenth century that houses began
-to be built upon this district, the land being up till then used
-as market-gardens, it is not surprising that when the palace was
-destroyed it soon passed from men's minds, no one living in the
-neighbourhood. The exact date of the destruction of the palace is not
-known, but its oblivion was almost complete when Camden, the great
-antiquarian, wrote in 1607, for he says: "The Royal seat call'd
-Kennington, whither the Kings of England us'd to retire, the discovery
-whereof 'tis vain to endeavour after, there appearing neither name nor
-rubbish to direct us."
-
-Though no vestige of the palace now remains, it is reasonable to
-conjecture, from the analogy of contemporary palaces which still
-exist, that Kennington Palace was a fortified building, with a
-strongly embattled wall and deep moat. Deserted by Henry VIII., who
-found Eltham and Greenwich more to his taste, the building materials
-were all sold and the palace razed to the ground. Some kind of Tudor
-manor-house was built upon the site, for a survey taken about the
-middle of the seventeenth century describes a building of some fair
-size. Close to it stood a low stone structure with a thatched roof,
-known as the "Long Barn," which was thought to be part of the old
-palace. It stood until 1795, when it was pulled down, removing the
-last trace of historic interest.
-
-As one loses oneself among the maze of houses and streets of
-Kennington, it is difficult to believe that in the lost palace which
-rose above the marsh of long ago Harold Harefoot, the son of Cnut,
-was crowned, Harthacnut, his brother, died either by treachery or
-accident, and Henry III. held two Parliaments. But of all the Kings
-whose memory should haunt the spot, the most to be remembered is
-Richard II., the handsome, popular, pleasure-loving and magnificent
-Prince. After the early death of his father, the Black Prince, young
-Richard had been brought up in the palace by his widowed mother.
-
-In later years Richard brought his child-wife, the fair Isabella of
-France, to Kennington Palace, to rest there for the night before she
-entered London in state. She was then only eight years old, and was
-never anything more than Queen in name, for long before she was
-old enough to be a wife her attractive but unwise husband had been
-murdered by his enemies.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V
-
-ELTHAM PALACE
-
-
-To realize that Eltham was one of the most stately of royal residences
-one has only to stand within the magnificent hall erected by Edward
-IV. Though neglected for many years and allowed to fall into decay,
-it is still a marvellous relic of medieval splendour, at the time
-when Perpendicular architecture was beautifying the land. The fine oak
-roof, with its hammer beams and carved pendants, is almost as perfect
-as when it was first put up, but unfortunately the beautiful tracery
-of the windows has suffered from being bricked up during the period
-of neglect. The whole hall, however, has lately undergone a thorough
-restoration, and the windows have been glazed, so that it is likely
-to remain for many centuries to come a noble witness of the dignified
-surroundings of the Plantagenet Kings.
-
-[Illustration: HAMPTON COURT PALACE.
-
-Erected by Cardinal Wolsey and afterwards presented by him to Henry
-VIII. Sir Christopher Wren reconstructed a part of the palace for
-William III. and Queen Mary.]
-
-The old stone bridge, with its buttressed arches, built at the same
-time as the hall, still stands over the moat, which at one time ran
-all round the palace. Standing on the bridge, across which must
-have trod Edward IV., its builder, Henry VIII. in his buoyant youth,
-Cardinal Wolsey in the early days of his greatness, and Queen
-Elizabeth when visiting the palace to meet her Scottish suitor the
-Earl of Arran, one looks down to-day upon smooth green water,
-overshadowed by willows and sycamores, and edged with smooth-shaven
-grass borders, with a glimpse of a rose-filled garden.
-
-[Illustration: The Banqueting Hall, Eltham Palace.]
-
-For Eltham, though only eight miles from London on the Maidstone road,
-retains much of its rural charm. As one approaches the palace along
-a tree-shaded avenue between old red-brick walls, one forgets the
-nearness to the great city and the fact that tram-lines now run up to
-the quiet little High Street. There is an old-world dignity about
-the neighbourhood of the palace, locally known as King John's Palace,
-through some confusion with John of Eltham, the second son of Edward
-II., who was born there. King John himself never resided in the
-palace, for it was not a royal house until the reign of his son. Some
-charming old houses, with red-tiled roofs and overhung upper stories,
-standing among gardens gay with flowers, border the avenue. It is
-probable that Wolsey and other Lord Chancellors stayed in these houses
-when in attendance upon the monarch.
-
-Eltham has never been anything but a small village amid fertile
-country, so that the problem of feeding the Court when resident in
-the palace must have been a serious one. Two thousand people to be fed
-daily must have absorbed the energies of all the farmers round.
-
-In plan the palace was a quadrangular castle protected by a strong
-battlemented wall, surrounded by a deep moat, with a drawbridge
-and portcullis. Camden claims that the original palace was built
-by Anthony Bec, Bishop of Durham, who presented it to Eleanor, the
-beloved wife of Edward I.
-
-Of its subsequent history one learns that many Kings held their
-Christmas festivals there, that Richard II. was extremely fond of it,
-spending much of his time there, that Edward IV. built the hall and
-bridge, and that Henry VII. also did a good deal of building, and
-brought up his children within its walls. Henry VIII. spent his early
-childhood in the palace, being visited by the learned Erasmus and Sir
-Thomas More. During the first years of his reign he also resided there
-frequently, until Greenwich rose in his royal favour. It was at Eltham
-that Wolsey received the office of Lord Chancellor, and also where he
-drew up, in 1526, the famous Eltham Ordinances for the regulation of
-the royal household. One finds from these ordinances that the
-King's guests were in the habit of stealing locks, tables, and other
-household articles, for strict rules were made concerning these
-fixtures, and also against the keeping of any dogs, except ladies'
-spaniels, within the precincts of the Court.
-
-James I. was the last monarch to reside within the palace, his son,
-Charles I., bestowing it upon Sir John Shaw, who pulled down all the
-buildings, with the exception of the great hall. When John Evelyn
-visited it in 1656, he found the whole place in ruins, but in 1828
-the Government was persuaded to undertake repairs in order to preserve
-this beautiful remnant of fifteenth-century architecture.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI
-
-GREENWICH PALACE
-
-
-[Illustration: Greenwich Palace.]
-
-Greenwich was the sea palace of the English monarchs. It stood upon
-the edge of the broad and tidal River Thames, which was salt to the
-taste at the time when the Tudor monarchs gazed over its sparkling
-waters. From their palace windows Henry VIII. and his illustrious
-daughter Elizabeth watched the busy vessels passing down to the sea,
-laden with wool and other merchandise, to return filled with silks,
-and spices, and precious metals; and looked with proud satisfaction at
-their ships of war lying anchored close at hand at Deptford. Warships
-had appeared at Greenwich very early in its history, when it was a
-mere fishing village sheltered beneath the green slope of Blackheath.
-The Danes had arrived in 1009, flying their raven flag, seeking
-tribute money from Ethelred the ill-advised. During one of their
-visits, these ruthless Norsemen murdered Alphege, the Archbishop of
-Canterbury, by aiming beef bones, so it is said, at the good man's
-head.
-
-It was from their sea palace, too, that the royal rulers watched the
-departure and return of two famous explorers. On a certain day in
-May, 1553, Sir Hugh Willoughby sailed from Deptford with his small
-expedition to search for a North-East passage to China. Young King
-Edward, already in the last stages of his wasting illness, was brought
-to the window to see the ships depart with their brave commander on
-board, who was destined never to return, being found frozen to death
-in his cabin in the Arctic ice. Crowds gathered along the shore, the
-nobles and courtiers thronged the palace windows as the ships sailed
-by, discharging their guns in a final salute, so that the surrounding
-hills echoed. Twenty-seven years later, a small weather-beaten vessel,
-_The Golden Hind_, came to anchor at Deptford after a momentous voyage
-round the world, in which battle and tempest had been braved, and
-little known lands visited. Its dauntless commander shortly after was
-honoured by a visit from his sovereign lady, Queen Elizabeth, who,
-forgiving his irregular deeds because of their success, knighted him
-upon his own deck, causing him to arise as Sir Francis Drake.
-
-Though pre-eminently associated with the Tudor monarchs who loved
-their healthy royal home, which felt the sea breezes coming up the
-river, Greenwich had been a royal possession for many years. Henry IV.
-dated his will from his manor of Greenwich, while his son, Humphrey,
-Duke of Gloucester, was the real founder of the palace. Gaining
-permission from his nephew, Henry VI., for whom he had acted as
-regent during his minority, he erected a stone manor-house, calling it
-Placentia. Disasters fell thick upon "good Duke Humphrey," as he has
-been called. His wife Eleanor was accused of witchcraft, and after
-penance in the streets of London, was imprisoned for the remainder
-of her life, while he himself, falling under the displeasure of
-the haughty Margaret of Anjou, was arrested for high treason, dying
-suddenly a few days later under suspicion of poison. When it reverted
-to the crown, both Henry VI. and Edward IV. lived at Placentia, and
-Henry VII. wooed and won his Yorkist bride there, but it is to Henry
-VIII. that Greenwich owes its fame.
-
-Born at Greenwich in 1491, baptized in the former parish church in a
-silver font "well padded with soft linen," Henry VIII. spent much
-of his time at his birthplace. He rebuilt the palace, erecting an
-unfortified dwelling, the sovereigns no longer requiring to dwell
-within a castle. His two daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, were born in
-the palace, their royal father, though disappointed at the non-arrival
-of a Prince, ordering all reverence to be paid to the infant
-Princesses. Queen Katharine of Aragon spent some happy years at
-Greenwich before Henry was led away by the charms of Anne Boleyn.
-Henry at that time seems to have been full of buoyant life and
-good-humour, enjoying the rough and tumble of tournaments in the park,
-riding out in the early morning of the First of May to bring in the
-blossom, and rollicking in the dances and pageants of the time. It
-was at one of the tournaments that Henry last saw Anne Boleyn, who
-was acting the part of the Queen of Beauty. Taking offence at her
-behaviour, the headstrong King got up suddenly and set off for
-London, never again seeing his unfortunate wife, who was arrested the
-following day and carried to the Tower.
-
-After the time of James I., who, with his Queen, much delighted in its
-situation, the palace fell gradually into decay, so that Charles II.
-pulled it all down and started to rebuild a new one. He never lived
-in it, for only one wing--that which now faces the building devoted to
-the Museum--was ever erected, the scheme of the palace being rejected
-for quite another purpose. The gentle, kindly heart of Queen Mary,
-the beloved wife of William III., was so moved by the suffering of the
-wounded sailors after the Battle of La Hogue, that she determined
-that the neglected palace should be furnished as a hospital for those
-seamen "who had protected the public safety." Sir Christopher
-Wren furnished the design, and King William, private donors, and
-Parliamentary grants supplied the endowment of the hospital, whose
-first stone was laid on June 30, 1696. For over a century and a half
-invalided sailors were sheltered within the hospital, which was
-closed in 1869, pensions being then bestowed instead of residence. The
-buildings are now used as a college for naval officers.
-
-Greenwich still retains a sea-faring aspect; on a bright day the
-river, full of laden barges and busy little tugs, still sparkles,
-while "the noblest of European hospitals" remains as "a memorial of
-the virtues of the good Queen Mary, of the love and sorrow of William,
-and of the great victory of La Hogue."
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII
-
-WHITEHALL PALACE
-
-
-Of all the many palaces of the English monarchs, none is more
-associated in men's minds with the splendour and pageantry of Court
-life than the palace of Whitehall. In comparison with other palaces,
-such as Windsor, its life-story was very brief, just over a century
-and a half, but it was spent in the hey-day of royalty, when the
-Kings were freed from the power of the great barons, and were not
-yet controlled by the constitution. It is full of memories of the
-masterful Tudors, and the pleasure-loving Stuarts, a period stored
-with great and stirring happenings, just when the New World was being
-discovered, the New Learning flooding over Europe, and the Reformation
-stirring the hearts of men. Yet of all its vast size, only a tiny
-fragment is left--the banqueting hall of the magnificent palace
-designed by Inigo Jones--and not a brick or stone remains of the
-palace where Wolsey reigned in his episcopal glory, and Henry VIII.
-held his gorgeous Court.
-
-The first house on the site of the palace belonged to Hubert de Burgh,
-the patriotic ruler of England during the minority of Henry III.,
-but remembered most generally as the unwilling gaoler of young Prince
-Arthur. He bequeathed his property to the Black Friars, in whose
-church in Holborn he was buried. Not long afterwards the Dominicans
-sold the house to Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York, who left it as
-a London residence to his successors in the see of York. It will
-be remembered that after one of the serious fires that attacked the
-palace of Westminster, Edward I. took shelter in the Archbishop's
-palace at York Place, as it was then known, and continued to occupy it
-during the remainder of his reign.
-
-In his capacity as Archbishop of York, Cardinal Wolsey came into
-possession of York Place, which he almost entirely rebuilt. During
-his days of greatness Wolsey lived in the utmost magnificence in his
-palace, rivalling the King's Court at Westminster. Surrounded by many
-hundreds of courtiers, among whom were some of the noblest in the
-land, who did not disdain to serve "the butcher's son," Wolsey kept
-high state, feasting off gold and silver plate, to the accompaniment
-of singing and music, wearing scarlet and gold, and riding on a
-crimson velvet saddle, with his feet in stirrups of silver gilt. As an
-excuse for the undoubted ostentation of the great cardinal, Sir Walter
-Besant maintains that in his time "it was the right and proper use
-of wealth to entertain royally; it was part of a rich man to dress
-splendidly, to have a troop of gentlemen and valets in his service, to
-exhibit tables covered with gold and silver plate, to hang the walls
-with beautiful and costly arras. All this was right and proper." But
-Wolsey experienced, as so many great men have done, that
-
- "They that stand high have many blasts to shake them,
- And when they fall, they dash themselves to pieces."
-
-After the disgrace of his great chancellor, Henry VIII. seized York
-Place, quite regardless of the fact that, as it was not the private
-possession of the cardinal, he had no right to do so. But it was
-just what the King wanted, his own palace at Westminster having been
-destroyed by fire a few years before. It was then that the name of
-Whitehall came into use, as Shakespeare reminds us in the play of
-Henry VIII.:
-
- "You must no more call it York Place; that's past:
- For since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost;
- 'Tis now the King's, and called Whitehall."
-
-Though Whitehall for us to-day signifies but one palace, in the days
-of the Tudors nearly every palace had its "white hall," usually the
-great banqueting hall, so that the new name bestowed by Henry was not
-peculiarly distinctive. Henry was delighted with his new residence,
-and proceeded to add new buildings, and to enclose nearly all St.
-James's Park up to the site of Buckingham Palace. Covering a vast
-extent of ground, the palace rambled from Scotland Yard along the
-riverside, to where Downing Street now stands, and spread across the
-roadway by means of a long gallery. Never so beautiful as Westminster,
-the Whitehall of the Tudors was a mass of brick buildings, erected
-without any particular scheme just as occasion required, resulting, as
-Besant declares, in a building "without dignity and without nobility."
-A roadway had always existed from Charing Cross to Westminster, and
-not even the autocratic Henry dared divert it for the sake of his
-palace, so that he caused two gateways to be erected to mark the
-precincts of the royal domain. Both were put up about the same time,
-the one nearer Westminster being called the King's Gate, and the other
-the Holbein Gate, being designed by the famous artist, Hans Holbein.
-Across this latter gateway ran the gallery connecting the main part
-of the palace with the Tiltyard (now the Horse Guards Parade) and the
-Cockpit (where the Admiralty now stands), the tennis court, and the
-bowling alley, where Henry VIII. indulged his love of games; for, as
-Leigh Hunt cynically tells us, "though he put women to death, he was
-fond of manly sports." Both gateways were removed during the first
-half of the eighteenth century, when the road was widened.
-
-Henry VIII. died in the palace where he had secretly married Anne
-Boleyn, and where he had enjoyed so many of the good things of life.
-It is said that he had grown so unwieldy that he had to be lifted by
-means of machinery. Cranmer came to see him on his deathbed, but when
-he arrived the King was already speechless, though still conscious.
-The Archbishop, after "speaking comfortably to him, desired him to
-give some token that he put his trust in God through Jesus Christ,
-therewith the King wrung hard the Archbishop's hand," and so left
-the earthly scene of his cruelties, his amusements, and his worldly
-success.
-
-[Illustration: Whitehall Palace at the End of the Seventeenth
-Century.]
-
-When James I. succeeded to the throne of the Tudors, he found the
-palace of Whitehall needing a considerable amount of repairs. The
-old banqueting hall that had sufficed for the needs of Elizabeth
-was despised by the new monarch, who regarded it as an "old rotten
-slight-builded Banqueting House." Inigo Jones, the great architect,
-was called upon to supply plans for an entirely new palace. His plans,
-the originals of which still exist, were extremely ambitious, for
-if they had been carried out, London would have possessed a palace
-rivalling Versailles, and covering an area of twenty four acres.
-According to his scheme, the palace was to present four imposing
-frontages, having square towers at the corners, and was to contain one
-vast central court, as well as six smaller courts. Only the stately
-banqueting hall of this colossal scheme was ever erected, that which
-remains to-day, the solitary fragment of the once extensive palace.
-The hall was finished in 1622, and when, three years later, Charles I.
-came to the throne, he was too much overwhelmed with the difficulty of
-obtaining sufficient money to supply his immediate needs, to entertain
-any ideas of carrying out the proposed palace. He contented himself
-with adorning the existing banqueting hall, commissioning the artist
-Rubens, who was in London in the capacity of Ambassador from Flanders,
-to paint the ceiling. For the magnificent work which we see to-day,
-covering the entire ceiling, representing the apotheosis of James I.
-the artist received £3,000 and a knighthood from King Charles.
-
-It was outside the banqueting hall which he had so enriched, that King
-Charles was beheaded on January 30, 1649. Early on the cold wintry
-morning, escorted by a body of soldiers, Charles walked from St.
-James's Palace, where he had spent his last night, across the park
-to Whitehall. Owing to the cold he had put on two shirts, in order to
-prevent any shivering, which might, the King thought, have been put
-down to fear. Wearing a black cloak, and a striped red silk waistcoat,
-he walked rapidly, telling Bishop Juxon, who accompanied him, that he
-was soon going to obtain a heavenly crown. On the way he pointed out
-a tree in Spring Gardens, planted by his elder brother, Henry. Arrived
-at Whitehall, he crossed over the gallery above the Holbein Gate,
-and went to his own room in the palace, awaiting the order for his
-appearance on the scaffold, spending the time in prayer.
-
-In spite of the great controversy on the subject of the position of
-the scaffold, and the manner of the King's approach to it, there seems
-to be every probability that the scaffold, which was erected in the
-open street, stood in front of the large windows of the banqueting
-hall. It is thought that King Charles, after walking through the hall,
-crowded for him with memories of his father and of his own stately and
-decorous court, entered into a small adjoining room, the wall having
-been cut through for the purpose. And it was from the window of this
-small room that Charles stepped upon the scaffold. At that time the
-windows of the banqueting hall, facing Whitehall, were not glazed.
-
-A great crowd had assembled to witness, as Sir Thomas Herbert, the
-King's devoted friend, records, "the saddest sight that England ever
-saw." With calm dignity Charles performed the last actions of his
-life, asking his executioners whether his hair would hinder them,
-taking off his cloak, handing the "George" worn by the Knights of the
-Garter to Bishop Juxon, who remained by the side of his fallen monarch
-to the end, and then, after making a short speech declaring his
-innocence, kneeling down and laying his head upon the block. When
-Bishop Juxon reminded him that he had but one stage more, which
-would carry him from earth to heaven, the King replied: "I go from a
-corruptible to an incorruptible crown."
-
-Directly the painful scene was over every sign of it was removed at
-once; soldiers dispersed the crowd, and the scaffold was immediately
-taken down. The King's body was embalmed, after which it was shown to
-the public, that there should be no doubt of his death. A week later
-his faithful friends carried him to his last resting-place in St.
-George's Chapel, Windsor. And so was cut short the life of Charles
-Stuart, who, had his youth been spent under wiser guidance than that
-of his father, might have been one of England's noblest rulers.
-
-[Illustration: The Execution of Charles I., outside Whitehall Palace.
-
-_From the painting by Ernest Crofts, R.A._]
-
-Cromwell, conscious of his own integrity and free from superstitious
-fears, did not hesitate to occupy the palace outside which his late
-monarch had been executed. Though he refused the crown offered to him
-in 1657, his residence in Whitehall began to assume more and more
-the aspect of a court, he himself gradually acquiring a dignified and
-stately manner, as we are assured by the contemporary royalist writer,
-Sir Philip Warwick. "And yet I lived to see this very gentleman,"
-he writes, "when for six weeks together I was a prisoner in his
-sergeant's hands, and daily waited at Whitehall, appear of a great and
-majestic deportment and comely presence." After six years of almost
-autocratic power as Protector of England, during which period he had
-shown his capacity as a statesman, Cromwell breathed his last in the
-palace of his royal predecessors, relinquishing his hold upon life, in
-spite of his strong religious faith, with obvious reluctance. Worn out
-with anxieties and domestic grief, especially over the death of his
-much-beloved daughter, Elizabeth Claypole, the great Protector died at
-the age of fifty-nine, on September 3, 1658, a day which he had always
-accounted as peculiarly fortunate, having been the occasion of his
-victories at Dunbar and Worcester. A tremendous storm, one of the most
-violent ever known, was raging over England when Oliver Cromwell's
-spirit passed into the great Unknown.
-
-On his arrival in London after his restoration, Charles II. proceeded
-to Whitehall, where he confirmed all the great charters of English
-liberty, such as Magna Carta, and the Petition of Right. Two years
-later, Charles brought his unhappy young bride by river in state
-to Whitehall, after their honeymoon at Hampton Court. Samuel Pepys
-watched the pageant from the top of the banqueting hall, which he
-describes as "a most pleasant place as any I could have got." The
-whole river was covered with boats and barges, "so that we could see
-no water for them," some boats representing the mimic court of a King
-and Queen, until the actual royal pair appeared, who were greeted with
-guns on their arrival at Whitehall Bridge.
-
-Whitehall, so intimately connected with the Tudors, fell with the
-Stuarts. A fire, which raged furiously all one night, destroyed for
-ever, in 1698, the old rambling palace known to Wolsey and his royal
-master, leaving no fragment to remind us of its existence. Only the
-graceful banqueting hall escaped the general conflagration. Plans were
-drawn up by Sir Christopher Wren for a new palace, but William III.,
-who, suffering from habitual asthma, found the smoke of Whitehall
-almost intolerable, was not likely to be anxious to restore a palace
-in which he could not live. As he wrote to one of his friends, "the
-loss is less to me than it would be to another person, for I cannot
-live there." But though he made little effort to rebuild the palace,
-being already busy at altering Hampton Court, there is no truth in the
-statement of his enemies, that William had partly inspired the fire.
-
-George I. altered the banqueting-hall into a Chapel Royal, for which
-purpose it continued to be used until 1890, when Queen Victoria gave
-permission for the building to be used for the United Service Museum.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII
-
-HAMPTON COURT PALACE
-
-
-In the high tide of its popularity, Hampton Court Palace was
-considered the finest and most commodious palace in England, an
-opinion which was corroborated by the foreign ambassadors of the time,
-who spoke of it in terms of the highest praise. One distinguished
-foreign visitor, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, recorded in his
-diary: "This is the most splendid and most magnificent royal palace of
-any that may be found in England, or, indeed, in any other kingdom."
-And though to-day the tide of royal favour has receded for ever from
-the shores of Hampton Court, the palace remains as stately and as
-dignified as when the proud Wolsey paced its galleries.
-
-[Illustration: Hampton Court: The First Court.]
-
-Its situation has always been a happy one, for though built on the
-banks of the River Thames, it has avoided all the disadvantages
-of damp, owing to the gravelly nature of its soil. The nearness to
-London, only thirteen miles away, with easy access along the broad
-river, made it a delightful residence for the monarchs who were able
-to get to and fro from London, however bad the roads might be. When
-wearied with the smoke and bustle that surrounded Whitehall, the
-royal owners rejoiced in escaping to their beautiful palace at Hampton
-Court, from whose windows they looked over the clean river, across
-fresh green meadows to the horizon of the blue Surrey hills.
-
-Cardinal Wolsey was largely influenced by the healthy position of
-Hampton Court, when he bought the place from the Knights Hospitallers
-of St. John, who had owned it since the early part of the thirteenth
-century. The Cardinal, like so many other great men, had never been
-strong, and had taxed his strength to the uttermost by the enormous
-quantity of work which he undertook. Not only was he Archbishop of
-York, holding various other bishoprics, but he was Lord Chancellor of
-England, an office which carried with it vast legal duties, and also
-that of chief adviser to the King, through whom all the business of
-the State was carried out. No wonder he needed a quiet spot far from
-the busy throng, but he would have been wiser had he built a modest
-country house, which would not have aroused the envy of the King.
-
-But Wolsey had a passion for building, as his work at Whitehall, his
-college of Christchurch, Oxford, and the school at Ipswich, witness,
-and he apparently could not refrain from erecting a palace, which was
-to excite universal admiration, and ultimately to assist in his fall
-from power. Though suffering from a variety of ailments, among which
-were ague and dropsy, Wolsey never rested, but, having bought Hampton
-Court in 1514, pushed on the building, so that it was finished and
-ready for occupation two years afterwards. No word concerning any
-architect has come down to us, so that we may presume that the palace
-was erected according to the Cardinal's own plans, and that he
-is responsible for the romantic charm of the Tudor work, with its
-clustered chimneys, gabled roofs, mullioned windows, and all the
-picturesque dignity of the red-brick courtyards.
-
-No sooner had the builders evacuated, than Wolsey filled the palace
-with the most rich and costly furniture, magnificent tapestries, and
-beds upholstered in gorgeous velvet and silk, everything being adorned
-with the Cardinal's arms, until it quite outshone anything that the
-King possessed.
-
-King Henry often honoured his "good Cardinal" with a visit, sometimes
-coming unexpectedly to surprise his Chancellor. The greatest banquet
-Wolsey ever gave was to the French Ambassador in 1527, when 280 beds
-were prepared, each room being lighted with blazing fires and candles
-in silver candlesticks. Music was performed all through the banquet,
-at which marvellous dishes appeared representing St. Paul's Church and
-various birds and beasts.
-
-Though Wolsey had handed over the lease of Hampton Court to the King
-in 1525, when the first small cloud of royal displeasure had appeared,
-he continued to occupy his beautiful palace for four more years, until
-his final disgrace over the question of the divorce with Katharine of
-Aragon. King Henry took possession in 1529, and at once began building
-apartments for the Lady Anne Boleyn, though Queen Katharine was still
-with him. Four years later, after Cranmer had pronounced a divorce,
-the Pope still remaining obdurate, Anne Boleyn spent a gay and
-brilliant honeymoon within the Cardinal's palace, recking little that
-the fickle King who had thrown off a faithful servant and a devoted
-wife for her sake, was to condemn her within a few years to a cruel
-death.
-
-Hampton Court remained Henry's favourite palace, for he was proof
-against any sad memories of past wives, while he was enjoying the
-company of another. Jane Seymour, Henry's third wife, whom he married
-the day after Anne Boleyn was executed, gave birth to Henry's only
-son, Edward, within the palace, the young Prince being received with
-great rejoicings, which were cut short by the death of his mother a
-few days afterwards. Catharine Howard and Catharine Parr were both
-married at Hampton Court, and Anne of Cleves also spent a short time
-there, so that the palace is associated with all the wives of Henry
-VIII.
-
-As a builder, King Henry is responsible for the Great Hall, on the
-north side of the Clock Court, a fine Perpendicular building, with a
-rich ceiling and large bay window.
-
-Even when, in his later years, he could no longer enjoy his favourite
-sports of hunting, archery, tennis, and fishing, owing to his
-increasing corpulence, Henry retained his love for the Cardinal's
-palace, and was often there amusing himself with games of backgammon
-and dice, and playing on the lute, having been always fond of music.
-
-Queen Mary, Henry's eldest daughter, spent her gloomy honeymoon at
-the palace, none of her English subjects welcoming her marriage with
-Philip II. of Spain. Philip, though outwardly devoted, was not much in
-love with his plain and unattractive wife, who seems to have lost all
-joyousness during the years of her retirement following the divorce
-of her mother. Deep melancholy and despair settled down upon the
-unfortunate Queen, when her hopes of an heir to carry on her work of
-restoring the Roman Catholic religion in England were denied, and she
-knew that her Protestant sister must succeed.
-
-During the reign of Queen Elizabeth no very important events occurred,
-for though the Queen constantly visited the palace, she came for
-periods of rest and amusement, away from all political cares. When her
-successor came to Hampton Court, he was delighted with it, as he was
-with most of the English royal palaces, which were so much more rich
-and luxurious than those of Holyrood or Falkland. The park allowed
-him opportunity for his much-loved occupation of hunting, when, his
-ungainly figure clad in a vivid green hunting suit, he would follow
-the stag with great keenness. But, enthusiastic as he was, he much
-disliked any crowds assembling at the royal meets, thinking that
-they worried the hounds and spoilt the game, and so he issued peevish
-proclamations against "the bold and barbarous insolency of multitudes
-of vulgar people," who, if they followed the hunt at all were to be
-conveyed to the nearest gaol.
-
-The favourite indoor entertainment at this time was the masque, which
-reached the height of its popularity and glory during James's reign.
-Ben Jonson, the greatest poet, and Inigo Jones, the greatest architect
-of the day, were employed as author and designer of these stately
-dramatic performances, in which the nobles and ladies of the Court
-took part, before an audience representing the highest in the land.
-
-But King James could not spend all his time watching gods and
-goddesses upon the stage, or hunting the deer in his park, for the
-question of religious toleration had to be decided. A conference was
-held in January, 1604, at the palace, between the Puritan clergy and
-the bishops, on the question of some lesser ecclesiastical reforms
-involving no change in the organization of the Church. James delighted
-in presiding at the conference, as it gave him an opportunity of
-showing forth his scholastic accomplishments, which were real, though
-extremely pedantic. No settlement was arrived at, for James, after
-his experience under the Presbyterians in Scotland, delighted in the
-Church of England with its subservience to royal authority. King James
-thought he had crushed the Puritans with his arguments, but he had
-only left them certain that all concessions would have to be wrested
-from the King by force, resulting in the deadly struggle of his son's
-reign.
-
-Though Charles I. grew to be devotedly attached to his French bride,
-Henrietta Maria, he had some unfortunate disagreements with her during
-the early months of his married life, which he spent at Hampton Court.
-Owing partly to the interference of the Duke of Buckingham, Charles's
-unwise favourite, and to the young bride's extreme youth and lack of
-tact, there were constant quarrels between the royal pair. Henrietta
-Maria's large train of French followers were extremely unpopular among
-the English, owing to their religious beliefs, and the Queen herself
-was ill-advised enough to refuse to take part in the coronation
-ceremonies, as they were performed by Protestant clergy. At last
-Charles grew so annoyed that he dismissed all the French suite in a
-high-handed manner, and sent them back to France. Though the Queen
-never became popular among the Puritans, who attributed much of the
-King's stubbornness to her suggestion, yet she and her royal husband
-learned to live together in great domestic bliss.
-
-The first hint of the gathering storm was made evident to the King
-when the Commons brought down to the palace their Grand Remonstrance,
-a document in which they had recorded, in unqualified language,
-all the King's misdeeds. Charles retaliated by the fatal error of
-attempting to arrest five members of the Commons; after the failure of
-which he retired from London to Hampton Court--the last time (except
-for one night) that he visited it as a free man. In the summer of
-1647, when his armies had all been crushed and dispersed, he came
-to the palace once more, but this time as a prisoner. He was still
-treated with great respect and allowed considerable liberty, visiting
-his children at Sion House, and having them visit him. Unhappily
-Charles determined to escape, and was so far successful that he
-succeeded in slipping from the palace, crossing the river, and
-reaching the Isle of Wight. But there his success ended, for he
-was obliged to give himself up as a prisoner to the governor of the
-island, to be treated afterwards with increasing severity.
-
-Cromwell's soldiers are credited with effecting considerable damage
-to historic buildings, but we are indebted to the Protector for the
-saving of Hampton Court Palace. It had already been sold to various
-purchasers, when Cromwell became Lord Protector and the Parliament,
-knowing his liking for the palace, at once set to work to repurchase
-it. The Protector and his family soon after took up their residence
-there, provoking the mocking laughter of royalists, either for the
-regal state which Cromwell maintained, or the homeliness of his
-wife. It is strange to remember, that along with all his austerity of
-character Cromwell used to indulge, in his lighter moments, in great
-buffoonery, putting sticky sweetmeats on to the chairs on which
-the ladies were to sit, slipping live coals into his officers' coat
-pockets, or throwing wine about.
-
-Hampton Court had often served as a honeymoon palace, but the young
-brides had seldom been very happy, unless, perhaps, Anne Boleyn had
-managed to be care-free during her short reign. Certainly Queen Mary
-and Henrietta Maria had been far from happy, but the insignificant
-little Portuguese wife of Charles II. was the unhappiest of all.
-Her husband did not love her, and she succeeded in annoying him by
-persisting in wearing her Portuguese style of dress, which seemed
-grotesque to English eyes. When she gave in on this point, she was
-ordered to receive Lady Castlemaine, one of the King's favourites,
-as a lady of her bedchamber, an indignity which she was justified in
-refusing. But Charles's open rudeness, and studied indifference to
-his wife, at last forced poor Catharine of Braganza to accept the
-notorious lady, after which the King treated her with respect, though
-never with love.
-
-When William III. first saw Hampton Court, he was enchanted with it,
-it reminded him of his beloved Holland, and besides, the air was free
-from smoke, so that his asthmatical frame could breathe easily. He at
-once began to set about rebuilding and altering the palace, and laying
-out the gardens in the formal Dutch fashion. Sir Christopher Wren
-was entrusted with the new work, creating the stately east and south
-fronts, and the Fountain Court that we see to-day. The architect had
-to join on the Renaissance style of architecture in vogue at that
-time, to the late Perpendicular of the original builders, and by
-adhering to red-brick with stone facings and copings, he made a
-combination which is both restful and dignified. Queen Mary took an
-intense interest in the new building which she was never destined
-to see finished, her early death causing King William to lose all
-pleasure in the palace, which they had both loved. For some years
-work almost ceased on the new building, until the disastrous fire at
-Whitehall rendered it necessary for the King to have another palace.
-Work was then hurried on, Grinling Gibbons working at the interior
-carving, Verrio painting the ceilings and staircases, gardeners laying
-out the avenues and maze, till all was ready for the King in the
-winter of 1699. Little more than two years later, William, who had
-been very ill for some time, was riding in the park, when his horse
-stumbled on a mole-hill, throwing his royal master on to the ground.
-When the doctor examined him, King William was found to have
-broken his collar-bone, which was immediately set. In spite of the
-remonstrances of the doctor, the King insisted upon returning to
-Kensington, where he rapidly became worse, the jolting of the roads
-having shifted the bone, which had to be reset. A fortnight later he
-died.
-
-The succeeding monarchs did little to the palace, though the first
-two Hanoverian Kings occasionally resided there. George III., whose
-partiality for Windsor and Kew caused him to neglect all the other
-palaces, never visited Hampton Court after he became King, so that
-it was gradually left to various private families, who were granted
-apartments by the royal bounty. When Queen Victoria came to the throne
-the palace was made open to the public, who have much appreciated the
-privilege of seeing one of the most beautiful royal residences ever
-erected in England.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX
-
-ST. JAMES'S PALACE
-
-
-The old red-brick palace which stands at the foot of St. James's
-Street, looking up towards the busy throng of Piccadilly, still gives
-the diplomatic title to the Court of Great Britain, though it has long
-been neglected by royalty. It stands serene amid the traffic of Pall
-Mall, having gained with the passing of ages some of that dignity with
-which it was said to be lacking in the eighteenth century, when Sir
-John Fielding wrote "it reflects no honour on the kingdom, and is
-the jest of foreigners." Certainly less romantic in its history than
-Westminster or Whitehall, it yet remains to-day a Tudor palace, while
-its more picturesque rivals have crumbled away.
-
-Long before the palace was erected, a small hospital stood upon its
-site, its inmates being fourteen chaste maidens, victims of the deadly
-malady of leprosy. The position had been chosen carefully, owing to
-its extreme loneliness, it being then completely surrounded by fields.
-In course of time eight brothers had been added to the hospital,
-which was known as St. James the Less, and the whole property had been
-granted by Henry VI. to his new foundation, Eton College. When Henry
-VIII. took possession of Wolsey's palace in Whitehall, he purchased
-the hospital and all the green fields round it, in order to obtain a
-park for his new residence. One is glad to learn that the unfortunate
-leprous maidens were pensioned off for the rest of their lives.
-
-King Henry immediately set to work to build a sort of country
-manor-house for himself, surrounding the park with a brick wall, and
-at the same time draining it, for originally it was a somewhat dreary
-marsh. It is said that Holbein, the artist, drew up the plans for the
-palace, which were carried out by Thomas Cromwell, Wolsey's secretary,
-who rose in Henry's favour upon his master's fall. But whoever was the
-architect, the palace is essentially Tudor, and remains so in spite of
-the various additions made by the later monarchs. The gatehouse, with
-its four octagon towers and its clock, is the most familiar feature of
-the palace. Unfortunately, from a sentimental point of view, the clock
-is a new one; an older one, bearing the date 1731, was removed in
-1831, and is now at Hampton Court Palace. Perhaps the most interesting
-part of the interior is the Old Presence Chamber, now known as the
-Tapestry Room, from the fine tapestry representing Venus and Mars,
-which had been made for Charles I., but had been put away in a chest
-and apparently forgotten, till it was discovered and hung up for the
-wedding of George IV. The stone Tudor fireplace in this room bears
-the initials H. and A. for Henry and Anne Boleyn, united most
-inappropriately, considering their later history, by a true lover's
-knot.
-
-[Illustration: The Gate Tower of St. James's Palace.]
-
-In spite of Henry's early enthusiasm, he was not often at the palace,
-which, indeed, was seldom used for any length of time, till after the
-fire at Whitehall, and even then Kensington Palace was preferred. It
-was more usually occupied by the heir to the throne, or some of the
-younger members of the royal family. Unhappy Queen Mary, soured by
-her early misfortunes, neglected by her husband, and despairing of the
-restoration of her Church, died after a weary illness on November 17,
-1558, in the palace which she had always loved. Her successors did not
-reside there, Queen Elizabeth only coming for brief periods, and James
-I. giving it to his son, Prince Henry, who died there of a malignant
-fever, imputed, as was customary at that time, to poison.
-
-On the death of his brother, Charles I., as Prince of Wales, took up
-his residence in St. James's Palace, spending the early years of his
-married life there, most of his children being born within its walls.
-Associated with the hopeful time of his young manhood, the palace also
-recalls his last days upon earth, before the final scene at Whitehall.
-Arriving on January 19, 1649, Charles spent the remainder of his life
-there, with the exception of the few days of his trial when he was
-lodged in the precincts of the old palace of Westminster. However much
-we may denounce the method by which Charles attempted to govern his
-kingdom, we can accord him nothing but a respectful and sympathetic
-admiration for the manner in which he passed to his death. He was
-still a young and vigorous man, to whom life must have held much that
-was good, and yet he left it with no whinings at fate, but with a calm
-dignity and full of trust in God. The day before his execution his two
-young children, Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of Gloucester, came to
-say farewell. Holding the little Princess in his arms, he told her
-she must not grieve for him, for he was going to die a glorious death,
-"for the laws and religion of the land." With the Duke of Gloucester
-on his knee, the father told the children to love and obey their
-mother, and then looking sadly at his little daughter he said, "But,
-sweetheart, thou wilt forget what I tell thee." The child promised
-to write down what he had told her, and then, after they had received
-some jewels and a last kiss from their royal father, they were led
-away by Bishop Juxon.
-
-Waking early on the fateful morning, the King roused his faithful
-attendant, Sir Thomas Herbert, saying that he would get up, "having
-a great work to do this day." Bishop Juxon came and administered the
-Sacrament, after which Charles was persuaded to take a little food, as
-the day was so bitterly cold. A few hours later the dread sentence had
-been fulfilled; but St. James's Palace was to witness one more scene,
-for the body was brought back on February 1, remaining there for many
-people to see it. A story, unsupported by evidence, though we would
-gladly give it credence, runs that a man, hidden in a cloak, visited
-the coffin, and as he walked round it was heard to mutter, "Dreadful
-necessity"--the man being said to be Oliver Cromwell.
-
-After the Restoration, Charles II. did not reside in the palace, but
-lent it to his brother, the Duke of York, afterwards James II., who
-maintained a lesser Court there, while remaining in perfect amity
-with his royal brother. King Charles took a tremendous interest in
-the park, which he altered under the superintendance of Le Nôtre, the
-famous French gardener, changing it from mere rural simplicity into
-long straight avenues, and confining the water of various ponds into
-one formal canal. Bird-cage Walk owes its name to the aviary which was
-created at this time in part of the park. Much of the popularity which
-the Merry Monarch enjoyed was the way in which he wandered about
-among the public, unattended by the courtiers. He was often to be seen
-walking about with his dogs in the park, which had been made public
-eight years after he had come to the throne. James, Duke of York, once
-ventured to suggest greater caution, but Charles, with sly humour,
-replied: "Brother James, take care of yourself, for no one would kill
-me to make _you_ King!"
-
-On his accession, James II. left St. James's for Whitehall, though his
-Queen much preferred the palace in which she had lived as the Duchess
-of York. His only son, the unfortunate Old Pretender, was born in St.
-James's in a room whose proximity to some back stairs allowed ground
-for the absurd belief that the child was smuggled into the palace in a
-warming pan. Bitter disappointment at the prospect of the continuance
-of the Roman Catholic dynasty was responsible for the story.
-
-From this time St. James's was never very popular. When William of
-Orange had driven away his father-in-law, he allowed the Princess Anne
-to reside in the palace, he himself retiring to Kensington, which he
-built for his own use. The succeeding monarchs all delighted in the
-rural charms of Kensington, and only came to St. James's when State
-ceremonies rendered their presence absolutely necessary.
-
-Since the fire in 1809, which destroyed a very picturesque part of the
-palace, no monarch has resided there, though the proclamation of the
-succession to the throne is still announced from the balcony leading
-from the Tapestry Room.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X
-
-KENSINGTON PALACE
-
-
-When William III., "a great man in a little crazy body" as Leigh
-Hunt calls him, found that he could not stand the smoky atmosphere of
-Whitehall, he looked about for a place sufficiently near London for
-him to be near his Ministers, and yet should be rural enough to have
-clear fresh air. He found this spot in the village of Kensington,
-where he bought a suburban mansion, formerly the residence of the
-Earls of Nottingham. Here he at once began building, and laying out
-gardens in the formal Dutch fashion, employing Sir Christopher Wren
-to make the alterations to the house. While the King was in
-Ireland fighting against his father-in-law, James II., Queen Mary
-superintended the work, writing to her absent husband of the slow
-progress the builders were making, and how "the place made me think
-how happy I was there when I had your dear company." A road was
-specially constructed through Hyde Park, gravelled and lighted with
-lamps, for the convenience of the officers of State, who were obliged
-to visit the monarch in his country retreat.
-
-Queen Mary did not long enjoy the pleasures of Kensington Palace, for
-in the winter of 1694, an epidemic of smallpox, which was raging in
-the neighbourhood, crept through the palace gates, and attacked the
-young Queen. Immediately she knew the terrible nature of her fate, the
-Queen, with her usual kind consideration, directed that all her ladies
-and servants who had not had smallpox should hurry from the palace,
-while she herself, having put everything in order, calmly prepared for
-death. King William could scarcely be persuaded to leave his beloved
-wife, even to lie down at night upon the camp bed arranged for him
-in the ante-chamber. Tears ran down the stern face which was seldom
-allowed to betray any emotion, and in the end, just before Queen Mary
-died, he was carried away from her bedside fainting. As he said to
-Bishop Burnet, "I was the happiest man on earth; and I am the most
-miserable. She had no fault; none: you knew her well: but you could
-not know, nobody but myself could know her goodness."
-
-Eight years later, King William himself expired in the same palace,
-a man still in the prime of life, but worn out with illness and hard
-work to which his vigorous intellect had driven him. He was already
-far from well when he was thrown from his horse while riding in
-Hampton Court Park, and broke his collar bone. The bone was set at
-once, after which the King insisted upon returning to Kensington,
-against the advice of his doctors. Upon arriving at the palace it was
-found that the bone required resetting owing to the jolting caused by
-the bad roads. The King lingered for a fortnight, busy all the time
-arranging a coalition to curb the power of France, but on March 8 it
-was seen that he was sinking. Macaulay tells us that "when his remains
-were laid out it was found that he wore next to his skin a small piece
-of black silk riband. The lords-in-waiting ordered it to be taken off.
-It contained a gold ring and a lock of the hair of Mary."
-
-Finding herself saddled with a debt of £4,000 still unpaid for the
-building alterations of her predecessor, Queen Anne contented herself
-with improving the gardens, leaving the palace untouched. But she
-added one architectural feature, the beautiful orangery designed by
-Sir Christopher Wren, standing near the north-east of the palace, a
-building famous for the beauty of its proportions and the delicacy of
-its detail. At one time it was much neglected and even ran the danger
-of being pulled down, but was happily preserved and carefully restored
-in 1898. The "dull woman with a dull husband," as Leigh Hunt bluntly
-summarizes Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark, both died in the
-palace to which they were much attached, Prince George dying in 1708,
-six years before his wife.
-
-Always a lethargic and weak-minded woman, Queen Anne's pleasures lay
-in eating and drinking, for she cared nothing for music or books, and
-would sit in silence for a long time among her friends. It was natural
-that such a woman should be ruled by the strong, imperious will
-of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who for many years completely
-influenced the Queen. She, however, presumed too much upon this
-influence till a breach was effected, never to be healed. The last
-famous interview between the one-time friends took place in Kensington
-Palace. The Duchess had written asking for an interview at which she
-should merely state her case, the Queen not requiring to answer at
-all. This the stolid Queen obeyed to the letter, for not a word could
-the furious Duchess extract beyond "You desired no answer and you
-shall have none."
-
-[Illustration: A Courtyard of Kensington Palace.]
-
-Under the first Hanoverian King, who never was able to speak the
-language of his new subjects, the Court at Kensington was extremely
-dull. But as George I. liked the quietness of the palace, he erected
-a new suite of rooms, and employed William Kent as the architect. To
-Kent we are indebted for the monotonous drab frontage which faces the
-Round Pond.
-
-The last monarch to reside and to die in the palace was George II.,
-the "petty German autocrat" who scorned England and delighted in
-snubbing his English courtiers, declaring, according to Lord Hervey,
-that no Englishman knew how to enter a room, nor any Englishwoman
-how to dress, nor English cooks how to prepare a dinner, nor English
-coachman how to drive, nor, indeed, were there any English horses
-fit to ride or drive. Queen Caroline, his much-enduring wife, devoted
-herself to the planning out of the gardens, which she laid out
-practically as we now see them. Uniting a collection of ponds she
-created the Serpentine, and was also responsible for the Round Pond
-and the Broad Walk.
-
-George III. did not care for Kensington, much preferring his beloved
-Windsor, so that the palace became somewhat neglected, being only used
-by various members of the Royal Family. The Duke of Kent, the fourth
-son of George III., came to live there shortly after his marriage, the
-Princess Victoria being born on May 24, 1819, in the room which now
-bears a brass plate commemorating the fact. At the time of her birth
-there seemed small likelihood of the little Princess ever reaching
-the Throne, but her royal uncles having no children, it soon became
-obvious that she was the heir to the Throne of England. She herself,
-being brought up with scrupulous care by her widowed mother, did not
-know of her great future till the death of George III. The residents
-of Kensington soon became familiar with the sight of little Princess
-Victoria driving about in a donkey carriage or in a tiny chaise drawn
-by small ponies.
-
-A few weeks after her eighteenth birthday, the Princess was awakened
-out of her sleep very early on a bright June morning. The Archbishop
-of Canterbury and the Lord Chamberlain had arrived at the palace, and
-their business could not wait. "We have come to see the _Queen_ on
-business of state, and even the Queen's sleep must give way to that."
-Hastily putting on a dressing gown and slippers, the young girl went
-down, to be told by the Archbishop that her uncle and King was dead,
-and that she was now the Queen of a vast inheritance. Later on that
-same morning her first council was held in the palace, the scene
-depicted by Wilkie in his well-known picture. The young Queen was very
-dignified and self-possessed, turning to Lord Melbourne, the Prime
-Minister, when doubtful as to what she should do, but showing all
-through the trying ordeal a gentle sweetness that won upon all the
-lords present. She read her speech "in a clear, distinct, and audible
-voice, and without any appearance of fear or embarrassment," after
-which all the privy councillors came to kiss her hand and swear
-allegiance. When her uncle, the old Duke of Sussex, who was very
-infirm, came forward to kneel before her, she left her chair and came
-towards him, kissing him on the forehead. On July 13, the girl-Queen
-left the home of her childhood for Buckingham Palace.
-
-Members of the Royal Family continued to occupy various apartments in
-the palace, the Duchess of Kent residing there till her death in 1861.
-Queen Mary was born there, her parents, the Duke and Duchess of Teck,
-living there for a short time.
-
-After some years it was found that the palace was in a very bad state
-of repair, every part of the building wanting attention. So extensive
-was the dilapidation, that the question of pulling down the palace
-was seriously considered. Fortunately, however, the historic place was
-saved by Queen Victoria, who was anxious to preserve her old home. It
-was finally decided as a memorial of the Diamond Jubilee, to repair
-the building thoroughly, and to throw open the State Rooms to the
-public. The restoration was carried out most carefully, everything
-being saved that was possible; pictures were brought from Hampton
-Court, and the whole palace rendered much as it was in the days of its
-glory. At the present time it is serving as the temporary home of the
-London Museum.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI
-
-KEW PALACE
-
-
-Kew first became a royal residence in the reign of George II., when
-it was leased from its private owners and used as a country seat by
-Frederick, Prince of Wales. Owing to his undutiful behaviour to his
-father, the Prince was banished from Court, when he retired to Kew,
-forming a sort of opposition Court there. But the actual red-brick
-Jacobean house, now known as Kew Palace, was then only called the
-Dutch House, after its original founder, Sir Hugh Portman, who was
-a Dutch merchant in the time of James I. It stood quite close to the
-more important building of Kew House, and was as constantly occupied
-by members of the Royal Family as the larger adjacent palace.
-
-The Dutch House, or Kew Palace as it is now designated, is thoroughly
-typical of its period--a simple, three gabled, and dignified looking
-building, unpalatial indeed, but quite befitting the position of the
-wealthy knight who built it. The interior has been altered to suit the
-tastes of the royal inmates, who inserted marble fireplaces, and put
-in new doors, but a good deal of the original Jacobean panelling still
-remains. On the brass locks of the doors are to be seen the Prince of
-Wales's feathers, and the cypher of Frederick, Prince of Wales.
-
-[Illustration: Kew Palace (the Dutch House) and George III.'s
-Castellated Palace, pulled down by George IV.]
-
-George III. spent a great part of his youth at Kew, living there with
-his mother, the widowed Princess of Wales. He was brought up in
-strict retirement, his mother regulating his life and restricting his
-intercourse with the outer world. Strangely enough, when he succeeded
-to the throne of his grandfather, George III. did not revolt from
-the ordered régime of the early days, but maintained the same careful
-regularity all his life. He continued to love Kew, where he and his
-devoted but prosaic Queen spent several months of every year. Buying
-the two houses from the lease-holders, Queen Charlotte turned the
-Dutch House into a royal nursery, where her large family was brought
-up. Both she and the King delighted in getting away to Kew, where
-no kind of royal state was kept up, and where they could live the
-ordinary life of quiet country gentlefolk, the only life for which
-they were really suited. Once a week the public were admitted into the
-gardens, and allowed the privilege of seeing the King and Queen and
-the royal children _en famille_, talking to their friends, and walking
-about in their private gardens. The little riverside village of
-Kew became quite gay, and its inhabitants were much loved by Queen
-Charlotte for the spontaneous enthusiasm with which they welcomed King
-George, after his attempted assassination by the mad woman, Margaret
-Nicholson.
-
-In order to erect a flamboyant palace, Kew House was pulled down by
-royal command in 1802, and a new "castellated structure of carpenters'
-Gothic" put up under the direction of Wyatt, the architect who
-was responsible for the alterations and repairs of Windsor Castle.
-Fortunately it was never finished, owing to the poor King's illness,
-and it has been said that George IV. never did a better deed in his
-life than when he demolished the ridiculous palace perpetrated by his
-father. While the building was in progress the Royal Family moved into
-the Dutch House.
-
-During one of the King's periodic attacks of madness in 1789, he was
-confined to the Dutch House, under the charge of two doctors, and when
-he walked in the gardens everyone was supposed to keep out of his way.
-But one day, Miss Fanny Burney, then in attendance on Queen Charlotte,
-was walking in the gardens, having learnt that the King was to go to
-Richmond. To her utter dismay she came quite suddenly upon the King,
-who called out to her, "Miss Burney!" She instantly ran off, not
-knowing the state in which he might be, and was horrified to find
-herself pursued by the poor King, who chased her hotly while she in
-vain sought to elude him. At last, hearing from the shouts of the
-doctors that she must stop as it was bad for the King to run, she
-waited till the King came up, who accosted her with, "Why did you run
-away from me?" With a great effort the shy little authoress controlled
-herself, and, finding that the King was quite peaceful, she had a long
-conversation with him, during which her royal master confided in her
-some of his troubles.
-
-After the King's madness had become permanent he spent the last years
-of his unhappy life at Windsor, but Queen Charlotte still resided for
-long periods at Kew, where she died in November, 1818, at the age of
-seventy-five. Earlier in the same year, three royal weddings had taken
-place within the old house, for the question of the succession had
-become pressing. Though Queen Charlotte had had fifteen children,
-she had no living grandchildren, for the Princess Charlotte, the only
-child of George IV. had just died. The drawing-room was fitted up
-with a temporary altar, and on the same day the Duke of Clarence
-(afterwards William IV.) was married to Adelaide, daughter of the
-Duke of Saxe-Meiningen, and the Duke of Kent to Princess Victoria of
-Saxe-Coburg. A few weeks before, the Duke of Cambridge had also been
-married in the palace.
-
-Suffering, like Kensington Palace, from lack of royal favour and
-general neglect during the latter part of the nineteenth century, it
-was restored in 1898 and opened to the public by the wish of Queen
-Victoria, as a commemoration of the Diamond Jubilee.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII
-
-BUCKINGHAM PALACE
-
-
-Buckingham Palace, the London residence of the monarch, is the most
-familiar of all the royal palaces to the general British public, in
-so far as everyone, sooner or later, migrates to London. Unfortunately
-the spectator sees only a somewhat depressing and stereotyped
-building, lacking the majestic proportions of Windsor and the stately
-beauty of Hampton Court, representing, indeed, the very lowest ebb of
-English architecture. Yet, in spite of its uninspiring exterior, it
-is full of interest, for present-day life throbs within its walls, the
-nation's history is bound up with it, and it pulsates with memories
-of the Queen who won the hearts of her people as a young girl and
-kept them all through her long and honoured life. As a palace, its
-life-story is just beginning; three sovereigns only, excluding our
-present King, have lived within it.
-
-[Illustration: Buckingham Palace, from the Lake in St. James's Park.]
-
-In the days of James I. the site of the palace was occupied by a
-plantation of mulberry-trees, a royal investment, the King believing
-that the cultivation of silkworms would be lucrative both for himself
-and the nation. In this he was disappointed, but the Mulberry Gardens
-remained as a place of amusement for the public until 1675. Both
-Samuel Pepys and John Evelyn mention visiting the gardens, to which
-the fashion of the Restoration resorted to eat mulberry tarts.
-
-When the Mulberry Gardens were first instituted, a keeper had been
-appointed by the King, and the office continued long after the work
-had become a sinecure. The keeper's official residence became known as
-Goring House, when Lord Goring purchased it in 1632. On the death of
-Lord Goring, Henry Bennet, Lord Arlington, bought the mansion, and
-later on succeeded in adding to his property the famous gardens,
-when they were closed to the public. According to John Evelyn, Lord
-Arlington filled his house with the most rich and handsome furniture,
-all of which perished in a disastrous fire which broke out in 1674.
-The house was rebuilt, receiving the new name of Arlington House, and
-was afterwards sold to John Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire.
-
-Not content with the building of the former owner, the Duke pulled
-down Arlington House and erected the immediate predecessor of the
-present palace, calling it after himself--Buckingham House. It was
-apparently a dignified-looking mansion, much admired in its time,
-having a flat roof adorned with statues, and large gilded letters
-making _Rus in Urbe_.
-
-Soon after he came to the Throne, George III. bought Buckingham House
-from the Duke of Buckinghamshire's successor, and some years later
-altered it to suit his convenience, at the same time spoiling the
-general outline of the building. But King George and Queen Charlotte
-liked the house where most of their children were born, and carried
-on there the same placid domestic life that they led at Windsor and
-at Kew. The children were brought up most severely, the Queen even
-carrying out the whipping herself, but the success of the system was
-not obvious, considering the later life of the young Princes. Though
-King George's simplicity is much laughed at, the nation owes something
-to his foresight and intelligence, in collecting a large library in
-his London house. For many years he spent £2,000 a year upon books,
-until he amassed the splendid collection now known as the King's
-library in the British Museum, George IV. having presented it to
-the nation. It was in this library that Dr. Johnson had his famous
-interview with the King, whom he described as the finest gentleman
-he had ever seen. Dr. Johnson was a friend of the royal librarian who
-informed the King of the presence of the great lexicographer, whom
-King George wished to see. The conversation, as related by Boswell,
-seems to have been about books and libraries, and Johnson's own
-literary work, upon which the King complimented him.
-
-George IV. never lived in the palace, for on his accession he ordered
-the old house to be razed and a new palace built. But as he was at
-the same time rebuilding Windsor Castle, he did not venture to ask
-Parliament for more money than necessary repairs, and told Nash, his
-architect, to build upon the old lines. This Nash proceeded to do
-without any models or drawings, with the result that he himself was
-surprised with the effect when the building was finished. So great
-was the universal scorn for the outspreading wings of the palace, that
-they were taken down at once. A cynical verse expressed the public's
-opinion of the architect:
-
- "Augustus at Rome was for building renown'd,
- For of marble he left what of brick he had found;
- But is not our Nash, too, a very great master?
- He finds us all brick and he leaves us all plaster."
-
-The gateway to the palace was designed from Constantine's Arch in
-Rome, and was intended to carry an equestrian statue of George IV.
-upon the top. This gateway, the Marble Arch, now stands at the Oxford
-Street entrance to Hyde Park, having been moved there in 1851.
-
-After the builders had left the much-criticized palace, it was left
-empty and bare, until Queen Victoria came to the Throne, when the
-girl-Queen soon made the lifeless palace full of animation and
-happiness. All through her long reign Buckingham Palace is intimately
-associated with her, from her Coronation Day, that June morning when
-all London welcomed her with enthusiasm, down to the Diamond Jubilee,
-when the aged Queen could say, "From my heart I thank my beloved
-people." It was from the palace that she set out on a cheerless
-February morning to her wedding in Westminster Abbey, and a great part
-of her happy married life was spent there, when in company with her
-beloved husband she held a brilliant Court. Two fancy dress balls were
-held, one where all the noblest and most distinguished in England
-came arrayed in the dress of the Plantagenets, and the other where all
-appeared in Georgian costumes.
-
-The marriage of the Princess Royal to the Crown Prince of Germany took
-place from Buckingham Palace. Though a highly approved love-match, it
-caused considerable grief to the royal household, the Queen finding it
-extremely difficult to part with her eldest daughter. The Queen wrote
-of it as "the second most eventful day" in her life, and after the
-young pair had set off for their new home in Germany, she said, "My
-tears began to flow afresh frequently, and I could not go near Vicky's
-corridor."
-
-The public will not soon forget the momentous events associated with
-the palace during the last reign; the serious illness of King Edward,
-on the eve of his Coronation, postponing the great ceremony for which
-many distinguished visitors had already arrived, and then after a
-short but brilliant reign, the sudden death of the popular monarch,
-throwing all the country into mourning. Almost before anyone knew
-that the King was seriously ill, for he had only just come back from
-Biarritz, the bulletin, announcing that "His Majesty breathed his
-last" within the palace, was read by the sorrowing crowds.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIII
-
-VANISHED PALACES
-
-
-Besides the palaces whose stories have been related, there were at one
-time many other royal residences scattered over England. These have
-either entirely vanished, even their sites being problematical, or
-mere fragments of them alone remain. While England remained in an
-unsettled condition, with constant internal wars, the Kings were
-always moving about taking their Court with them, staying in their
-various castles or fortified houses. We find that Henry II., the first
-of the Plantagenet Kings, never stayed long in any place, generally
-moving on after a few days' visit. But when more settled times came,
-and the Parliament remained at Westminster, the King came to live
-longer in London or at one of his royal houses in the neighbourhood.
-Some of the country palaces were maintained on account of the hunting
-they afforded.
-
-A few brief notes must suffice for these vanished palaces.
-
-=Baynards Castle= was situated on the River Thames not far from
-St. Paul's. In 1461 the City of London tendered their allegiance to
-Edward, Duke of York (Edward IV.) at Baynards Castle, and by doing
-so secured his triumph. It became a royal house on the attainder of
-Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and was rebuilt by Henry VIII., but was
-seldom occupied by the sovereign. Queen Mary gave it to the Earl of
-Pembroke.
-
-[Illustration: Baynards Castle in 1790.]
-
-=Dartford Priory= was turned into a house for the King after the
-dissolution of the monasteries. It is chiefly associated with King
-Henry VIII.'s fourth wife, Anne of Cleves, who lived there during
-the reign of Edward VI. and until her death in 1556. Queen Elizabeth
-occasionally visited it, but when it was found to need costly repairs
-James I. granted it to Robert, Earl of Salisbury.
-
-=Enfield Palace=, though a Crown property from the time of Henry IV.,
-was not used as a royal residence until the time of Henry VIII. Queen
-Elizabeth was at Enfield when Henry VIII. died, and she often visited
-it after she came to the Throne. It was sold to the Earl of Pembroke
-in 1641.
-
-=Hatfield House= was acquired by Henry VIII., whose daughter, Queen
-Elizabeth, lived there during her sister's reign. James I. persuaded
-Sir Robert Cecil to accept it in exchange for his house at Theobalds.
-
-=Havering-atte-Bower= Palace stood near Romford, in Essex. It was the
-country palace of Edward the Confessor, and was afterwards occupied by
-various Queens, some of whom died there. James I. let it to the Earl
-of Oxford.
-
-=Kempton Park= was often used by the Plantagenet Kings up till the
-time of Richard II. Henry VIII. ordered it to be taken down, using the
-building materials for his new palace of Whitehall.
-
-=King's Langley=, in Hertfordshire, was Crown land from the fourteenth
-century, the manor being last held by Charles I., who presented it to
-Sir Charles Morrison.
-
-[Illustration: Nonsuch Palace.
-
-_From an engraving by Houfnagle._]
-
-=Nonsuch Palace= at Cheam, in Surrey, was built by Henry VIII., who
-had obtained the land in 1538. The Earl of Arundel, to whom Queen Mary
-gave the palace, completed the building, which was still unfinished.
-It was a most unusual structure, almost fantastic with its bas-reliefs
-and gilded cupolas, and quite unlike the Tudor mansion of the period.
-Queen Elizabeth often visited Arundel, who entertained his royal
-mistress in lavish manner. She afterwards bought the estate, which
-James I. settled upon his wife. Charles II. gave it as a present to
-Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, who pulled it down.
-
-=Oatlands=, near Weybridge, in Surrey, was the site of a palace
-erected by Henry VIII., who also enclosed a park. It was occasionally
-visited by Henry VIII.'s successors, down to the time of the Civil
-War, when it was destroyed.
-
-[Illustration: Savoy Palace, about 1650.
-
-_From an etching by Hollare._]
-
-=Richmond Palace=, the much-loved residence of the Tudors, received
-its name from Henry VII., who had been known as Henry of Richmond
-after the town in Yorkshire, before he came to the Throne. The first
-house was destroyed by Richard II. when his wife died there in 1394,
-but Henry VII. rebuilt it, dying there in 1509. Queen Elizabeth was
-often at the palace, where she died in 1603.
-
-=Savoy Palace= obtained its name from Peter of Savoy, the uncle of
-Queen Eleanor, the wife of Henry III., who resided there. It was
-bought back again by Queen Eleanor, who handed it on to Edmund, Earl
-of Lancaster, from whose family it returned again to the Crown, by the
-marriage of John of Gaunt to Blanche of Lancaster. The captive King
-John of France spent some years of his life there.
-
-=Somerset House= was built by the Protector Somerset, who ruthlessly
-destroyed churches and houses to obtain a site on the river. After his
-execution, it came to the Crown, and was afterwards used as part of
-the Queen's dowry, Catharine of Braganza being the last Queen to
-live in the palace. In 1775 it was converted into a Public Office;
-Buckingham Palace, just acquired by George III., being settled upon
-the Queen.
-
-=Theobalds=, on the borders of Hertfordshire, was built by Robert
-Cecil, Lord Burleigh, who often entertained Queen Elizabeth, an honour
-which cost him £2,000 a visit. James I. was so delighted with it when
-he came there on his royal progress from Scotland, that he induced his
-host to let him have it in exchange for Hatfield. He was frequently
-there, enjoying the hunting in the neighbourhood, and died there in
-1625, his son Charles being proclaimed at the gate. At the Civil
-War it was much damaged, afterwards being parcelled out among some
-Parliamentarian officers. The last remains disappeared in 1766.
-
-=Winchester Castle= was built, according to tradition, by Arthur, and
-was constantly used by the early English Kings. It was the birthplace
-of Henry III., and Parliament assembled there occasionally until the
-fifteenth century. Henry V. was the last King to reside there. In the
-time of the Commonwealth it came into the possession of Sir William
-Waller, from whom the Corporation bought it.
-
-=Woodstock=, in Oxfordshire, was a royal manor when the Domesday
-survey was made. It was at Woodstock that Queen Eleanor, the wife of
-Henry II., discovered the Fair Rosamond, daughter of Lord Clifford,
-who was so much loved by her royal master. Much of the story is
-probably legend; she was certainly not murdered by the jealous Queen,
-but died in Godstow nunnery. Edward III. and Queen Philippa were much
-attached to the palace, where their eldest son, the Black Prince, was
-born. After Wyatt's rebellion, Queen Elizabeth was guarded there as a
-prisoner. James I. liked it for the hunting it afforded, and Charles
-I. was often there during his reign, especially when his army was at
-Oxford during the Civil War. It fell into ruin after the war, and the
-estate was given to the Duke of Marlborough after his famous victory
-at Blenheim. The architect of Blenheim Palace wished to save the ruins
-which still remained, but the Duchess of Marlborough declared that
-they spoilt the view, and so swept them away completely in 1723.
-
-[Illustration: EDINBURGH CASTLE
-
-Stands upon a great rock rising abruptly from low-lying ground. Its
-history stretches back to the dim time of legends.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIV
-
-EDINBURGH CASTLE
-
-
-Edinburgh Castle has a history that stretches far back till it is lost
-in the misty realm of legend. The great rock upon which it is built
-could not fail to have appealed to all the successive rulers of the
-land as of great strategic importance. It rises abruptly from the
-low-lying land, and dominates the country for many miles around, from
-the Forth on the north to the Pentland Hills on the south. Its Celtic
-name of _Maidun_, meaning the fort of the plain, became corrupted in
-later times to Maiden's Castle, the name being responsible for the
-tradition that the castle was used by the royal Princesses, during
-times of great danger.
-
-[Illustration: Edinburgh Castle, from the North.]
-
-Though Edwin, the King of Northumbria, is the reputed founder of
-the town whose name is commonly derived from him, the clear light of
-history only begins to shine upon it in the days of Malcolm Canmore
-and his sainted Queen. At that time a Celtic Castle stood upon the
-rock, of which there are no remains except St. Margaret's Chapel, a
-little Norman building, named after Malcolm Canmore's English wife.
-Malcolm, the Big Head, a brave but illiterate Prince, was so devoted
-to his beautiful wife, that through her teaching he learned religion,
-and used to take part with her in the religious services of which she
-was so fond. Unable to read himself, he caused her prayer-books and
-missals to be splendidly bound, and would listen to her while she read
-to him, submitting at the same time to refinements in dress and table
-customs which were quite innovations in the rude northern Court. Queen
-Margaret was in the castle in 1093, when her warlike husband and her
-eldest son went off with a large army to fight the English. She was
-lying very ill when the news came to her that both husband and son
-had been slain, the shock causing her death. As there was considerable
-disaffection in the country, her body was carried with great secrecy
-across the Forth to Dunfermline, a miraculous mist kindly enveloping
-the party, so that no one saw them escape.
-
-Another Queen Margaret, also an English Princess, a century and a half
-later, came as a girl-wife to the grim castle on the rock. She was the
-daughter of Henry III. of England, and had been married to Alexander
-III., a mere boy, with great splendour at York, her father hoping by
-the marriage to gain more influence over Scotland.
-
-All the troubles of the War of Independence during the fourteenth
-century arose from King Alexander III. leaving no male heir. His two
-sons had died before him, and his grand-daughter, the Maid of Norway,
-was his only heir. Disasters came thick upon Scotland soon after the
-death of Alexander III., who had fallen over a cliff on the coast of
-Fife when riding too near the edge on a very dark and stormy night.
-For the next fifty years Edinburgh Castle was constantly being taken
-by the English and recaptured by the Scottish people. Everyone knows
-the story of how Sir Thomas Randolph surprised the English garrison
-in the castle, by climbing up the precipitous side of the rock with a
-party of thirty bold men. After this capture, Robert Bruce, according
-to his usual policy, destroyed the castle, so that it should no longer
-serve as a stronghold for the English. But when Edward III. obtained
-it again in 1334 he rebuilt it.
-
-It was not until the early Stuart Kings, that Edinburgh Castle really
-became a palace, in the more peaceful sense of the word. When James I.
-returned to Scotland after his long captivity in England, he spent a
-considerable amount of money on building the Parliament House, (now
-used as the armoury), and many of the private apartments. He had
-doubtless, during his residence at Windsor and Westminster, learnt to
-enjoy the greater beauty and dignity of the English palaces. His son,
-James II., continued his work of rebuilding.
-
-During the minority of James II., a time when several parties in the
-State were endeavouring to capture their young monarch and to rule in
-his name, a great tragedy took place within the castle. William, Earl
-of Douglas, a lad of about eighteen, was then the head of the most
-wealthy and powerful family in Scotland, and being of royal descent,
-might even make a claim to the throne.
-
-As he did not join himself to either the party of Sir William Crichton
-or that of Sir Alexander Livingstone, these two leaders, usually at
-deadly enmity with one another, united to destroy the young Earl.
-In the year 1440, the Earl and his brother David were invited to the
-castle, on the pretext that the young King wanted their congenial
-company. Accompanied by their aged tutor, Sir Malcolm Fleming, the two
-boys came to Edinburgh, where they were received with real pleasure by
-James II., and with false hospitality by Crichton and Livingstone. But
-the real purpose of the visit was evident when a black bull's head was
-placed upon the dinner-table, in Scotland as much a symbol of death
-as the Judge's black cap in a modern trial. Taken unawares, the
-unfortunate boys were hurried to the castle walls, where, after a mock
-trial, they were beheaded, Fleming also suffering a similar fate.
-
-After the time of Flodden Field, the monarchs very seldom used the
-castle for anything but a stronghold against their enemies, Holyrood
-Palace becoming their favourite residence. The last Prince to be born
-in the castle was James VI., his mother, Mary Queen of Scots, having
-chosen to be within the protection of its strong walls. The small
-room in which he was born can still be seen, a memorable room, for the
-infant Prince was to bring peace to his realm, putting an end at last
-to centuries of conflict, not indeed by any wisdom or foresight of his
-own, but by succeeding to the throne of England.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XV
-
-DUNFERMLINE CASTLE
-
-
-For peaceful beauty of situation the royal palace of Dunfermline
-in Fife excelled all others in Scotland, for though the castles of
-Edinburgh and Stirling were majestic, they were too associated with
-the troubles of turbulent nobles to have been pleasant residences for
-the monarchs. The palace was built high above a wooded glen, its walls
-apparently rising out of the cliff-like sides of the winding stream.
-Only a fragment now remains, but it is sufficient, with its mullioned
-windows and massive buttresses, to show how picturesque and stately
-must have been the Stuart palace.
-
-The first monarch to reside at Dunfermline was Malcolm Canmore, who
-built a castle on Tower Hill, a little distance away from the later
-palace. Its site is still to be seen, though the slight remains of the
-walls are probably those of its Norman successor. Queen Margaret
-lived the greater part of her reign there, spending her days in pious
-devotion, giving food and garments to the poor, or sitting with her
-maidens working at rich embroideries to adorn the abbey which she
-had founded. No frivolous conversation was allowed among the maidens,
-their royal mistress being very severe, yet the Queen was much
-beloved, for she combined sweetness with her gravity.
-
-It was the presence of the abbey adjoining the palace which made
-Dunfermline so dear to Queen Margaret. She was never tired of
-enriching her foundation with every gift that saintly enthusiasm
-could suggest, and when she died she was naturally buried in the Lady
-Chapel. The abbey buildings were destroyed by Edward I., but were
-restored by Bruce, who erected the palace near by, deserting the
-castle on the hilltop. The reforming energy of the Protestants, in
-1560, led them to pull down most of the beautiful church of the abbey,
-fortunately leaving the nave, a fine example of Norman work, to be
-used for Presbyterian services. So many royal Princes had been buried
-in the abbey, from Malcolm Canmore and his Queen, that it has been
-sometimes called the "Scottish Westminster," yet the Reformers did
-not spare it, though it contained the grave of Robert Bruce. Bruce's
-monument being broken, became indistinguishable among the general
-ruin, till at the beginning of the nineteenth century the church was
-repaired. Some fragments of the tomb were discovered, and on the grave
-being opened, the body of Bruce was found wrapped in some remnants
-of cloth of gold, which had served as a winding sheet. A new tomb
-was made, and after a solemn service the body was reinstalled. Queen
-Margaret's tomb is still to be seen among the ruins of the Lady
-Chapel.
-
-Many royal Princes were born within the palace, from the Bruce's
-son and heir, David, to Charles I., the last Prince to be born in
-Scotland. When James VI. brought his newly-wedded wife to Dunfermline,
-a new house was erected, called Queen Anne's house, to serve for
-the Queen's use. Three of their children were born there, Princess
-Elizabeth, who married the Elector Palatine of the Rhine, Prince
-Charles, and a son who died in infancy. Prince Charles was described
-as "a very weak child," irritating his nurses with his peevishness.
-
-After James VI. acceded to the Throne of England, he never revisited
-Dunfermline, nor did Charles I. see again the place of his birth.
-Charles II. came there in 1650, when the Scots were supporting him
-against the Commonwealth, and while there, was forced to sign the
-Covenant, much against his will.
-
-During the eighteenth century, the palace was absolutely neglected,
-and fell into hopeless ruin, Defoe, when he made his tour round Great
-Britain in 1724, finding it "the full perfection of decay." In the
-following century a private gentleman repaired the ruins, and
-claimed possession on account of the expenditure which the repair
-had entailed. However, the Crown disputed his claim, and resumed
-possession in 1871.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVI
-
-STIRLING CASTLE
-
-
-Through the whole period of Scottish history, Stirling Castle held a
-position of vast importance. In early days it stood as a stronghold
-against the barbarous Highlanders of the North, acting as the frontier
-post of civilization. For fifty years during the War of Independence,
-the castle was alternately held by the English or the Scotch,
-whichever party was at the time dominant in the country. Crowning
-the summit of a sudden outburst of volcanic rock, the castle was
-practically impregnable to all save treachery, and was therefore
-constantly used as the residence for the Stuart Kings during their
-minority.
-
-[Illustration: Stirling Castle.]
-
-But being one of the Three Keys of the kingdom, its possession was
-eagerly sought during any foreign or civil war, great efforts being
-made both to attain and retain it. In 1296, Edward I. took Stirling
-for the second time, and held it for three years. Wallace had won a
-great victory within sight of the walls, a victory which had dispersed
-the English army, but had not been sufficient to take the castle. When
-the Scots obtained possession in the winter of 1299 after starving the
-garrison into surrendering, Sir William Oliphant became governor of
-the castle, to himself sustain a siege of many months in 1304. Edward
-I. was so angry at being hindered from his purpose for so long,
-that when he at last gained the castle he broke faith with Oliphant,
-sending him to the Tower of London. Ten years later, when Robert
-Bruce was winning back Scotland from the feeble grasp of Edward II.,
-Stirling still held out. With superlative chivalry, Edward Bruce, who
-was conducting the siege, promised a year's respite, after which the
-castle must surrender unless relieved. Urged by dire necessity,
-Edward II. was persuaded to leave his frivolous Court, and gathering
-a magnificent army to march to Scotland. But all their splendid
-equipment did not avail against the courage and ingenuity of the
-Bruce, who, on the field of Bannockburn won for Scotland her greatest
-victory. Thousands of the English lay dead upon the field, while
-Edward fled for his life. Stirling Castle surrendered, and its
-fortifications were levelled.
-
-Once again Stirling was to be held by the English, when Bruce's son
-was on the throne; but in 1342 it was regained, never to fall again
-into the hands of a foreign foe.
-
-In a room in the castle, still pointed out by the guide, William, Earl
-of Douglas, was murdered by his royal master, James II. By special
-invitation, backed by a safe-conduct signed by the King, Douglas had
-come to Stirling in 1452. When supper was over, the King took Douglas
-into an inner room, where he accused him of being in league with Ross
-and Crawford against his monarch, and ordered him to break his bond.
-The haughty Douglas refused to do so, whereat James, forgetful of
-his safe-conduct, struck at him with his dagger, and the courtiers
-in attendance, dashing to the assistance of their King, Douglas fell
-covered with wounds, as the Duc de Guise was to do over a century
-later in the cabinet of Henri III.
-
-Douglas was undoubtedly a danger to his country, at the head of so
-powerful and unruly a house, but James should have taken more legal
-measures to subdue him. However, the Parliament of his day acquitted
-him of all blame.
-
-[Illustration: STIRLING CASTLE.
-
-One of the three Keys of Scotland, acting as a stronghold against the
-Highlanders of the North.]
-
-His son, James III., lived constantly at Stirling, which was his
-favourite residence, building the Parliament House which still
-remains. His interest in the Chapel Royal, to whose endowments he
-wished to add the rich priory of Coldingham, aroused the enmity of
-the Homes and Hepburns, who regarding Coldingham as a family property,
-rose against the King. To his lasting remorse the King's son, James
-IV., fought against his father, who was killed after the battle of
-Sauchieburn. The young King really grieved, and in order that he
-should never forget, it is said he wore a belt of iron round his
-waist, adding an extra link every year.
-
-From all the records of legal expenditure, it is evident that James
-IV. was a great palace builder. He is responsible for much building at
-Holyrood, Linlithgow, and Falkland, and at Stirling too he did most of
-the building of the palace, which was carried on by his son.
-
-Both Mary Queen of Scots and James VI. were crowned at Stirling as
-mere infants, the ceremony taking place in the parish church, just
-below the castle. Queen Mary revisited the scene of her coronation
-when she returned to Scotland, after her long sojourn in France. She
-came there with young Lord Darnley as her husband in 1565, and in
-December, the following year, her infant son, James, was baptized with
-great ceremony at Stirling. Many lords and nobles assembled, wearing
-only their swords in order that there might be less danger of
-disturbance, while the royal child was carried to the chapel by Lady
-Argyll, acting for Queen Elizabeth, between an avenue of gentlemen
-bearing wax torches. The only ominous sign amidst the festivities was
-the absence of the father, Lord Darnley, who remained sulking in the
-palace.
-
-Fourteen months later the poor infant was crowned, his mother being
-forced to abdicate. Another hurried ceremony took place, the crown
-being held over the King's head, and the baby hand guided to the sword
-and sceptre. The Earl of Morton took the oath as substitute, and
-then the infant was carried back to the castle in the arms of the
-hereditary governor of the castle, the Earl of Mar. For many years
-James VI. remained carefully guarded within the castle walls, never
-allowed to roam without first getting permission, until he had grown
-to man's estate. Yet he bore no ill-will to Stirling, to which he
-brought his wife, Anne of Denmark, and where his eldest son, Prince
-Henry, was born. After the desire of his life had been achieved, and
-he had become King of Great Britain, he paid one visit to Stirling in
-1617, after which the castle was only used on one other occasion as a
-palace, when Charles I. came there in 1633.
-
-The castle remained in the charge of the Earls of Mar until the
-Rebellion of 1715, when their connection with the rising caused the
-attainder of the Earl, and the loss of all his offices.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVII
-
-HOLYROOD PALACE
-
-
-To those who see it for the first time, Holyrood Palace is distinctly
-disappointing. All the glamour of its romantic history seems out of
-place in connection with the somewhat prosaic looking mansion, which
-bears little outward sign of its eventful life. Nothing is left of the
-medieval abbey which once stood upon the site, save a ruined portion
-of the abbey church. And of the Stuart palace, so associated with the
-fascinations of Scotland's most famous Queen, only a small part is
-left, though luckily the fire which attacked the palace at the end of
-the Civil War spared the apartments used by Mary Queen of Scots. Yet,
-disappointing as a first impression may be, Holyrood Palace, to
-those who know anything of Scotland's story, can never fail to be
-interesting.
-
-The palace was never a fortified building, for it was not used as
-a regular royal residence until the more fierce days of warfare had
-vanished. Originally an abbey stood at the foot of Arthur's Seat,
-being founded by David I., in gratitude for his miraculous escape when
-out hunting. According to monkish tradition, the King was saved by the
-providential appearance of a cross which interposed between him and
-the infuriated stag. Therefore the name of the abbey was called the
-Holyrood.
-
-[Illustration: The Bedchamber of Mary Queen of Scots, in Holyrood
-Palace.]
-
-Though not a palace until the time of the Stuarts, the early Kings
-often held councils there, and continued to show royal favour to the
-monks, who had given the name of Canongate to the burgh which arose
-outside the city walls. James II., who lies buried in the royal vault
-in the chapel, was the first to erect any kind of royal apartments in
-the abbey. His successor, James III., lived there, but it was James
-IV. who really was the builder of the palace, to which he brought his
-wife, Margaret Tudor, the English bride who was eventually to bring
-about the union of the crowns. James V. carried on the brilliance of
-his father's Court, his two French wives bringing many of the fashions
-of their own country to grace their new home. His first wife died soon
-after her arrival, but his second wife, Mary of Guise, lived to rule
-Scotland through many anxious years of regency, while her infant
-daughter was being brought up away from her in distant France.
-
-But it was under Mary Queen of Scots that Holyrood became really
-famous. She made it her constant and favourite residence. After her
-many years of education in France, and her brief career as the wife of
-the sickly Francis II., she returned to her native country in August,
-1561. John Knox, with the superstition of the age, comments upon the
-peculiar fogginess and darkness of the weather which marked the young
-Queen's arrival, saying, "that forewarning gave God unto us, but alas!
-the most were blind." Bonfires were lit, and great demonstrations of
-joy were manifested when Mary took up her abode at Holyrood. A band of
-musicians with much zeal but little skill played outside her bedroom
-window, being courteously thanked by the Queen; but Brantôme, the
-French courtier, who had accompanied Queen Mary from France, complains
-in his memoirs of the terrible noise of these musicians who sang
-psalms all out of tune; "Quelle musique! et quel repos pour sa nuit"
-he writes. The very first Sunday after her arrival was marred by a
-tumult outside the Chapel Royal, where Mass was being performed, a
-disturbance which was only checked by Lord James Stuart, the Queen's
-natural brother, who stood in front of the chapel door, and being a
-zealous Protestant himself, managed to check the Reformers.
-
-The palace witnessed three interviews between the great reformer,
-John Knox, and his young and beautiful Queen. Using his pulpit as the
-opportunity for declaiming against the doings of the Queen and that of
-idolators generally, John Knox was called to task by Mary, who ordered
-him to appear before her at Holyrood. The first interview took place
-in the audience-chamber, leading into the Queen's bedchamber. Only
-Lord James Stuart, afterwards the Regent Moray, was present at
-the interview, in which Knox answered the Queen's accusations very
-cleverly. The second interview was held in the Queen's bedroom, the
-room which remains much as she left it, with the actual bed in which
-she slept. Off this room were two small rooms, in one of which she
-was supping with her Italian secretary, David Riccio, when the band of
-armed men, headed by her husband Darnley, burst into the room. Riccio
-clung to the Queen's dress, but was torn apart, stabbed, and dragged
-out to be despatched with many wounds at the top of the staircase.
-
-Queen Mary's son, James VI., spent some time of every year in the
-palace, and restored it when he was expecting his Danish bride.
-
-Charles I., who had been crowned King of Scotland in the chapel at
-Holyrood, restored the building, which was wrecked by a mob in 1688,
-after James VII. (James II. of England) had endeavoured to set up the
-Roman Catholic worship there. The chapel suffered another disaster
-about the middle of the eighteenth century, when the architect who
-had been entrusted with the work of restoring the building put on too
-heavy a roof, which fell in, destroying all but the bare walls.
-The royal vault at the east end of the south aisle still remains,
-containing the bodies of David II., James II., James V., and his
-Queen, Magdalen of France, and Henry Lord Darnley.
-
-From the time of Charles II., who rebuilt the palace much as we see
-it now, and James VII., who stayed in the palace when Duke of York,
-Holyrood became deserted, the later Stuarts and the Georges not
-visiting their northern capital. But in September, 1745, the palace
-once more broke into gaiety and splendour, when Prince Charles Edward
-entered Edinburgh and held high court in the home of his ancestors.
-His father was proclaimed as King James VIII., ladies flocked to
-the balls to win a gracious smile from the handsome Prince, and
-the kingdom seemed almost won. But in the midst of all the apparent
-brightness, the Prince realized that his cause was not so successful
-as he had at first hoped; the Highlanders, indeed, were flocking
-in, but the Lowlanders held aloof. After a few weeks Prince Charlie
-determined to risk all on the desperate march into England, leaving
-Edinburgh never to return again.
-
-Since then Holyrood has only once rejoiced in the presence of the
-monarch, when in 1822 George IV. visited Edinburgh and received an
-enthusiastic welcome, chiefly through the fervid loyalty of Sir Walter
-Scott, who devoted all his energies to the success of the first royal
-visit since the time of Charles I.
-
-For nearly a century the palace has not been used as a royal
-residence, but is merely occupied once a year when the Lord High
-Commissioner to the Assembly comes in state to the capital.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVIII
-
-LINLITHGOW PALACE
-
- "Of all the palaces so fair
- Built for the royal dwelling,
- In Scotland, far beyond compare,
- Linlithgow is excelling."
-
-[Illustration: The Fountain in the Quadrangle of Linlithgow Palace.]
-
-So wrote Sir Walter Scott, an opinion which can be endorsed to-day,
-enough of the palace remaining, ruined though it is, to show what a
-stately and dignified structure it was in its days of greatness. The
-palace, standing on some rising ground jutting into a beautiful lake,
-is square in construction, having towers at the corners. The original
-entrance was on the eastern side, through a gateway which was
-protected by a drawbridge. Inside this gateway is a mutilated statue,
-thought to represent Pope Julius II., who gave James IV. his sword,
-still to be seen among the regalia in Edinburgh Castle. A ruined
-fountain stands in the centre of the courtyard, which once resounded
-with all the gaiety of the Stuart Court. The western side, containing
-the room where Queen Mary was born, is the oldest, while the northern
-side is the most recent, being rebuilt by James VI.
-
-Apparently there was a castle or royal manor-house at Linlithgow from
-the time of David I., who granted the skins of the rams, sheep, and
-lambs, who died there, to his foundation abbey of Holyrood.
-
-When Edward I. was holding sway over Scotland, he spent a considerable
-time at Linlithgow, turning it into a real fortress. Builders, masons,
-and carpenters were ordered from England, who threw up stockades,
-enclosing the parish church within the walls. It remained in English
-hands until 1314, when it was taken by a familiar strategy. A farmer,
-named Binnock, who was in the custom of bringing hay to the garrison,
-determined to capture the castle, one of the last to submit to the
-conquering Scots. One morning he drove up as usual to the castle gate,
-stopping his cart immediately under the portcullis, which was raised
-to admit him. Cutting the yoke which fastened his horses, so that the
-cart could not be shifted nor the portcullis lowered, Binnock sprang
-upon the unsuspecting porter and killed him. The hay in the cart
-covered some armed men who leapt out, being joined by others concealed
-near the gateway. The garrison was completely surprised, and were
-all put to the sword. Binnock was rewarded by a grant of land. Bruce
-destroyed the castle, following his usual policy, but it must have
-been rebuilt some time during the reign of his son.
-
-The palace which now remains is entirely a Stuart building, the older
-castle and part of the church having been burnt down the year that
-James I. returned to his native country after his long captivity.
-Great rebuilding took place in his reign, and, indeed, he is
-considered the main builder, the later monarchs only adding to and
-adorning portions of his scheme. It was in this new palace that Henry
-VI. of England, with Margaret of Anjou, and Edward Prince of Wales,
-stayed when the triumph of the Yorkists had driven them from England.
-
-James IV., under whom Scotland enjoyed a rare interval of prosperity,
-delighted in his beautiful palace of Linlithgow, where he indulged in
-all the manly sports of the time. Like his contemporary, Henry VIII.,
-he revelled in tournaments, to which he invited all the lords to come
-and tilt with him, making of Linlithgow another Hampton Court, where
-great merry-making took place. Under his wise rule, Scotland was
-at peace and prosperous, the Court maintained a higher level
-of refinement and luxury, and science and art were encouraged.
-Unfortunately, James's chivalrous and rash temperament led him into
-war with England and the disaster at Flodden Field. Before starting on
-the expedition, a council was held at Linlithgow, after which the King
-attended evensong in the church. According to the story described by
-eye-witnesses, a strange man, dressed in a blue robe belted with a
-linen strap, with reddish hair hanging to his shoulders, pushed his
-way up to where the King was kneeling. Addressing him with slight
-reverence, the man warned the King against proceeding to battle,
-saying, "Sir King, my mother has sent me to you desiring you not to
-pass at this time where thou art purposed," saying it would bring
-disaster and shame, also warning him against visiting any woman on his
-journey. While the lords and everyone round were astonished and amazed
-at this apparition, the man suddenly disappeared "like a blink of the
-sun." In spite of the fact that the superstition of the time credited
-the man with being St. John appearing upon earth, the King persisted
-in his undertaking to meet his death upon the battlefield, and to
-plunge Scotland into mourning for the flower of the land. Doubtless
-the man was an imposter, got up for the part, by those who wanted to
-dissuade the King.
-
-A little room in the south-west corner of the palace is pointed out
-as Queen Margaret's Bower, being said to be the room from which the
-King's English bride watched for the messengers bringing her news of
-her husband's fate.
-
-When James V. became of age he also loved the palace, building the
-stately hall known as the Parliament Hall. He brought his French wife,
-Mary of Guise, there, who said she had never seen a more princely
-residence. His only child, Mary Queen of Scots, was born in the
-palace, but he never saw her, for he was at Falkland Palace when
-the news of her birth was brought to him, dying of grief after the
-shameful defeat at Solway Moss.
-
-The infant Queen was declared by some to be extremely delicate, but
-Sir Ralph Sadler, the English Ambassador in Scotland, gave quite a
-different account. The Queen-Dowager took him into the room where her
-baby was lying, and showed him how healthy she was. He writes to Queen
-Elizabeth: "I assure Your Majesty it is as goodly a child as I have
-seen of her age, and as like to live, with the grace of God."
-
-[Illustration: LINLITHGOW PALACE.
-
-THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS.
-
-Though from very early times a royal manor-house, the existing
-building is purely the work of the Stuart Kings.]
-
-After the thrones were united, the palace, like so many others in
-Scotland, became neglected, but it received its final ruin in 1746,
-when General Hawley's soldiers quartered in the palace. They had
-been defeated at Falkirk by the Jacobites, and were retreating. In
-spite of remonstrances to the General, the soldiers were allowed to
-make great fires in the palace, which were so carelessly watched
-that the building caught fire, leaving it the ruin which it is
-to-day.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIX
-
-FALKLAND PALACE
-
-
-Unless equipped with a good knowledge of Scottish history, the average
-tourist wandering through Fife will come upon Falkland Palace with
-surprise. Its situation is so remote from any centre of importance, it
-stands upon no great river affording an outlet to the sea, and never
-being a stronghold of any sort it remains at the base instead of the
-top of the hills among which it is built. Though elevated to the proud
-position of a royal burgh in 1458, Falkland can to-day be scarcely
-designated by any other title than that of a fair-sized village, so
-that the presence of the stately palace, ruined though it is, partakes
-of the nature of the unexpected.
-
-[Illustration: The Gateway of Falkland Palace.]
-
-Being built purely for pleasure and convenience, and with no thought
-of safety, the builders of the palace indulged in greater beauty of
-decoration than is to be seen in almost any other palace in Scotland.
-It suggests the dignity of a graceful French château, with its
-pilasters, bas-reliefs, statues, and canopied niches. Of the three
-sides of which the palace once consisted, only two remain, one of
-these being much ruined. But the south wing which has always remained
-more or less intact, is sufficient to prove how far from barbarous was
-the taste of the later Stuart monarchs.
-
-Before the palace was erected a castle stood close to the site of the
-present building. It had long been a possession of the Earls of Fife,
-till in the fourteenth century it descended to an heiress who had
-no children. She bestowed the castle upon Robert Duke of Albany, the
-brother of the inefficient King Robert III. Upon Albany rests the
-dreadful charge of murdering his young nephew, the Duke of Rothesay,
-by starving him to death in the castle at Falkland. Rothesay was young
-and wild, and had annoyed his uncle by getting himself made Guardian
-of the Realm, a post desired by Albany. After involving Scotland in
-war with England, due to his imprudence in jilting the daughter of
-the Earl of March, who succeeded in obtaining an English army in his
-support, Rothesay was captured on his way to St. Andrews by his
-uncle, who, it is said, had his father's authority to do so. Taken
-to Falkland Castle the Prince never came out alive, dying of slow
-starvation according to one account, and of dysentery by another.
-It is evident that Albany was suspected of murder, for he took the
-trouble to be officially acquitted of any part in his death. Only
-grassy mounds now indicate the position of this castle, which
-must have been, according to the investigations of Lord Bute, of
-considerable extent.
-
-The execution of Albany's son as a traitor made Falkland Crown
-property. The palace began to be erected by James II., but its chief
-builder was James IV., who spent large sums of money on the work, and
-much enjoyed the sport to be obtained in the neighbourhood. His son,
-James V., was often there, though apparently not for long periods at a
-time. He was the only monarch to die there, a sad event which occurred
-at the early age of thirty. In despair at the rout of his army at
-Solway Moss, the young monarch refused all consolation, and just
-seemed to wait for death, though there were no apparent signs of it
-upon him. Not even the news brought to him from Linlithgow of the
-birth of a daughter could cheer him. Merely saying the often quoted
-words, "It came wi' a lass and will pass wi' a lass," he turned his
-head to the wall and died a few days later.
-
-No events of importance took place at Falkland during Mary Queen of
-Scots' brief reign, though she visited it occasionally. Her son,
-James VI., was much attached to it, on account of the good hunting it
-afforded. On one occasion he was nearly captured there by the reckless
-Francis Earl of Bothwell, who made one of his many attempts to seize
-the King. But on this midnight attack he was unsuccessful, for he and
-his party were forced to flee when the artillery of the palace was
-turned against them. They were not pursued, as they had taken the
-precaution to take possession of all the horses.
-
-After James went to England he could seldom be lured from the luxury
-of his English palaces to visit his northern residences, but he did
-visit Falkland once again in the year 1617. Tremendous preparations
-were made for the royal visit, eighty carts lumbered up from Kirkcaldy
-with the luggage, and a large gathering of nobles and gentlemen made
-Falkland once more a gay and busy place.
-
-Charles I. came to Falkland once in the summer of 1633, after which
-the palace was never again to rejoice in great regal splendour. When
-Charles II. was being supported by the Presbyterians of Scotland,
-he spent a little time there, much worried by the persistency of
-his friends, who insisted upon his signing the Covenant. After he
-departed, no monarch ever resided in the palace, which was given to
-a Cromwellian officer during the Commonwealth, but which, at the
-Restoration, again became the property of the Crown.
-
-Lying deserted and neglected all through the eighteenth century, the
-palace became a quarry for those who needed building materials, till
-in 1820 it was bought by Mr. John Bruce of Grangehill, who, with the
-assistance of Sir Walter Scott, arrested the ruin and restored the
-remaining structure.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XX
-
-BALMORAL CASTLE
-
-
-Sir James Clark's suggestion that the valley of the Dee was a
-neighbourhood possessing all the qualifications of a health resort,
-induced the Prince Consort to purchase Balmoral Castle in 1852. Both
-he and the Queen found the lonely situation of the castle among the
-rugged hills, quite delightful, and though Prince Albert had at first
-only taken a lease, he soon bought the entire property, handing it
-over to the Queen as a possession for the reigning monarchs.
-
-Though belonging to the Farquharsons for about 150 years, the last
-tenant of Balmoral had been Sir Robert Gordon, who, having been high
-in the diplomatic world, filled his house with many distinguished
-guests. Sir Robert had considerably enlarged the castle, but it was
-not sufficient for the needs of a Court, quiet and homelike as it
-might be. A new castle was commenced in 1853, largely from the plans
-and ideas of the Prince Consort, whose devoted wife called it "his own
-creation, own work, own building." To-day, the castle, built of native
-granite in the Scottish baronial style, stands out strikingly white
-among the dark wooded hills.
-
-[Illustration: BALMORAL CASTLE.
-
-Erected in 1853, following the plans of the Prince Consort. Built
-of native granite in the Scottish baronial style, it stands out
-strikingly white among the dark wooded hills.]
-
-By August, 1856, the new castle was quite ready, and Queen Victoria
-found everything delightful--"the house is charming; the rooms
-delightful; the furniture, papers, everything perfection"--and from
-that moment Balmoral remained her favourite residence, where she was
-happy in the company of her beloved husband, and free from much of
-the conventionality of State ceremonial. No one reading the Queen's
-letters or her diary, can fail to see how blissful was the simple
-domestic life, the gay picnic expeditions among the mountains, the
-informal dances where the Queen joined in Scotch reels and country
-dances.
-
-It was among the heather of the Scottish hills that Prince Frederick
-of Prussia proposed to the little Princess Royal, then only fifteen
-years old. Prince Frederick (afterwards the Emperor Frederick III.)
-was so much in love that he could not refrain from speaking of it,
-though the Queen, owing to her daughter's youth, had wanted him to
-wait a little longer. Picking up a piece of white heather, Prince
-Frederick gave it to the Princess as they rode down Glen Girnoch,
-telling her at the same time how _allerliebst_ she was.
-
-In the midst of all this happiness came the sudden blow of the early
-death of Prince Albert, a grief from which the Queen never recovered.
-She wrote to her uncle, "my life as a _happy_ one is _ended_! the
-world is gone for _me_!" Amidst all her desolation, it was a relief to
-her to get away to Balmoral, where everything reminded her of him,
-and where the beauty and calm of the mountains and glens were restful.
-Though there were no longer any large shooting parties, Queen Victoria
-did not shut herself up, but took a great interest in the tenantry,
-whom she visited constantly.
-
-Under the fostering care of Queen Victoria, the village of Balmoral,
-once poor and barren, with mud cottages roofed with heather, became
-prosperous. Constant employment has brought wealth to the village,
-where schools and a library had been erected.
-
-Whatever its subsequent history may be, Balmoral Castle will ever
-remain enshrined as the dearly-loved home of Victoria the Good, among
-the Highland folk she knew and loved so well. All her letters from the
-castle breathe the same feeling as the one written on October 6, 1851:
-"I love my peaceful wild Highlands, the glorious scenery, the dear
-good people who are much attached to us ... my heart is _bien gros_ at
-going from here."
-
-
-BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber's Note:
-
-
- _ _ represents italic text
-
- = = represents bold text
-
-
- Sundry missing or damaged punctuation has been repaired.
-
- Both hyphenated and non-hyphenated variants of many words
- occur in this book. All have been retained.
-
- Any illustration which interrupted a paragraph has been moved
- to a more convenient location, between paragraphs.
-
-
- Page 7: 'chepe' is an old word, meaning 'market'.
- See 'THE HISTORY OF LONDON' BY (Sir) WALTER BESANT
- (Project Gutenberg e-book 27995)
-
- (p. 47) Most fortunately, there exists a document priceless
- and unique, short as it is and meagre in many of its details,
- which describes London as it was in the reign of Henry II. It
- is written by one FitzStephen, Chaplain to Thomas (à) Becket.
- He was present at the murder of the Archbishop and wrote his
- life, to which this account is an introduction.
-
-
- 13. FITZSTEPHEN'S ACCOUNT OF THE CITY. PART I.
- (translation from Latin) (p. 49)
-
- "... Cheapside preserves the name of the Chepe, the most
- important of all the old streets. Here, every day, all the
- year round, was a market held at which everything conceivable
- was sold, not in shops, but in selds, that is, covered wooden
- sheds, which could be taken down on occasion. Do not think
- that 'Chepe' was a narrow street: it was a great open space
- lying between St. Paul's and what is now the Royal Exchange,
- with streets north and south formed by rows of these selds or
- sheds. Presently the sheds became houses with shops in front
- and gardens behind. The roadway on the south side of this open
- space was called the Side of Chepe...."
-
- Page 38: 'Samual' corrected to 'Samuel'.
-
- "Samuel Pepys watched the pageant...."
-
-
- Page 57: "... that no Englishman knew how to enter a room,
- nor any Englishwoman how to dress, nor English cooks how to
- prepare a dinner, nor English coachman how to drive,..."
-
- ... is as printed, and 'coachman' is probably correct, in the
- context, though 'cooks' may be questionable....
-
- Page 76: 'castle' corrected to 'castles'.
-
- "... though the castles of Edinburgh and Stirling were majestic,
- they were...."
-
- Page 79: 'seige' corrected to 'siege'.
-
- "... sustain a siege of many months in 1304."
-
- "... Edward Bruce, who was conducting the siege,..."
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps at Royal Palaces of Great Britain, by
-Beatrice Home
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT ROYAL PALACES ***
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