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diff --git a/old/55088-0.txt b/old/55088-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 38ec7c8..0000000 --- a/old/55088-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3600 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort - American Resort Series No. 4 - -Author: Albert Nathaniel Williams - -Release Date: July 11, 2017 [EBook #55088] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - The Black Hills - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - - - BY Albert N. Williams - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES NO. 4 - - Southern Methodist University Press - 1952 - - COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY - SOUTHERN METHODIST UNIVERSITY PRESS - PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - BY AMERICAN BOOK—STRATFORD PRESS, INC., NEW YORK - - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES - - No. 1: Gatlinburg: Gateway to the Great Smokies, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 2: Taxco: Mexico’s Silver City, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 3: Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies, _by Edwin J. Foscue and - Louis O. Quam_ - No. 4: The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort, _by Albert N. Williams_ - - - For Chris - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -The research on early Black Hills and Badlands history was ably assisted -by Miss June Carothers, whose services were provided the author through -a generous grant-in-aid by the University of Denver’s Bureau of -Humanities and Social Development. - -Miss Ina T. Aulls, Mrs. Alys Freeze, Mrs. Opal Harber, Miss Margery -Bedinger, Mrs. Margaret Simonds, Mrs. Elizabeth Kingston, and Mrs. Clara -Cutright, all of the Denver Public Library, are particularly to be -thanked for placing the resources of that institution at my disposal. - -For assistance in preparing the manuscript, I wish to thank Miss Helen -Kiamos, Miss Edith Goldfarb, and Miss Lillian Helling. - -I am indebted to Bell Photo of Rapid City for the photograph of the -Needles highway; to Ned Perrigoue of Rapid City for that of Sylvan Lake; -to the Denver Public Library Western Collection for those of Calamity -Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Deadwood Gulch in 1881; and to Mr. A. H. -Pankow of the South Dakota State Highway Commission for that of a Black -Hills stream. - -And finally, as always, thanks go to my wife, Ann, for her patient -editorial help. - - Albert N. Williams - - _University of Denver - Denver, Colorado_ - - - Books by Albert N. Williams - - LISTENING - ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUNTRY - THE WATER AND THE POWER - THE BOOK BY MY SIDE - - - - - Contents - - - I The Black Hills: The Forbidden Land 1 - II The Formation of the Black Hills 15 - III The Hills Today 27 - IV History I: Indians and Gold 47 - V History II: Deadwood Days 78 - VI The White River Badlands 115 - Bibliography 126 - Index 127 - - - - - Illustrations - - - Along the Needles Highway _facing page_ 34 - Harney Peak—older by ages than the Rockies 35 - The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial 50 - Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an elevation of 6,250 - feet 51 - Calamity Jane, during her carnival days 82 - Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait 82 - Cheyenne—Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun - messengers 82 - Deadwood Gulch in 1881 83 - Modern Deadwood—seventy years later 83 - One of the Black Hills’ many streams 98 - The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared 99 - - - - - Introduction - - -I have had an opportunity to enjoy one of the most readable accounts of -the Black Hills I have ever come across. It is written to acquaint -traveling America with an area which was long off the beaten path of -tourists, and which has only during the past quarter century been -recognized as a place where people who wish to “Know America First” may -profitably spend some time. - -Mr. Williams has outlined the historical reason why this small -wonderland was so long outside the consciousness of America, and he has -devoted a chapter to telling about the methods of nature in producing -the intricacies of this formation, older by far than the Alps or the -Himalayas. He has made the subject live, and he includes enough expert -terminology to satisfy the reader that he knows whereof he speaks. - -In his chapter on “The Hills Today” Mr. Williams outlines what the -tourist should see, and how to see it. For that chapter alone his book -would be well worth the attention of every prospective sight-seer. He -has two chapters pertaining to the history of the region, the first -speculating on how the whole economic growth of the West might well have -been altered had a confirmed story of “gold in the Black Hills” been -released fifty years before it was spread-eagled on the pages of the -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_. It is an interesting speculation, and he gives it -a pleasing reality. - -Another chapter deals with the lives of some of the characters exploited -and given semi-permanent fame by the old dime novels. Deadwood without -these characters would be just another picturesque town set down in a -mountain valley; with them it becomes one of America’s better-known hot -spots, vying with the Klondike and Leadville. - -Mr. Williams’ last chapter on the Badlands, a neighboring phenomenon, a -place of amazing mystery and strange disorder, serves to depict what -might be termed the undepictable in terms exactly calculated to excite -the reader’s absorbed interest. - - Will G. Robinson - - _South Dakota State Historical Society - Pierre, South Dakota - December 17, 1951_ - - - - - CHAPTER ONE - The Black Hills: - The Forbidden Land - - -The thing to remember is that the Black Hills are not hills at all. They -are mountains, the highest mountains east of the Rockies, with Harney -Peak rising to a height of 7,242 feet above sea level. Inasmuch as the -prairie floor averages, at the four entrances to the Hills, only 3,200 -feet in elevation, these are mountains of considerable stature. - -The title “hills” was by no means given the area by early white -settlers. Indeed, if that majestic domain had not already been named the -Black Hills by the Indians, George Armstrong Custer, who in 1874 made -the first full-scale exploration of the region, would no doubt have -dignified it with a more appropriate and properly descriptive name—the -Sioux or the Dakota Mountains, in all probability. - -From time beyond remembrance, however, the region had been known to the -Indians as Paha Sapa, exactly to be translated as “Black Hills,” and -very properly that name was accepted by government geographers. The use -of the word “black” possibly fulfilled several functions, for not only -do these massive peaks appear decidedly black when seen against the -horizon across distances as great as a hundred miles, but they were, to -the superstitious braves of the Teton Sioux, the abode of the Thunders -and studiously to be avoided. - -This taboo fastness was one of the last regions in the great American -West to be explored and settled. For one reason, it enjoyed an isolation -from the centers of development that served to discourage any but the -most hardy of explorers. Lying in the extreme western end of present-day -South Dakota, the Black Hills were two hundred miles west of the -settlements around Pierre, on the Missouri River, and two hundred miles -north of the towns along the North Platte, the valley of the -Oregon-California Trail. The most important reason, though, for its -belated opening was that gold was not discovered in the Black Hills -until 1874, and it was the discovery of gold in various sections which -more than any other single set of circumstances dictated the pattern of -the development of the trans-Mississippi West. - -Even today this fascinating region remains nearly the most remote of all -America’s resort and recreation areas. The Grand Canyon lies but an -hour’s drive from a major east-west transcontinental highway. Estes -Park,[1] in the Rockies, is only seventy miles from the city of Denver. -Glacier Park is easily served by the Great Northern Railroad on its -overland run, and Yellowstone enjoys direct service by three railroads. -But the Black Hills lie beyond the privileges of railroad stopovers, and -in order to visit them the tourist has no choice but to plan a vacation -trip for the sake of the Hills themselves and not as a side venture from -any of the traditional tours of the West. The Hills are worth the -effort. - -The Black Hills occupy a rectangular realm which is roughly one hundred -miles long, north to south, and fifty miles across its east-west axis. -The White River Badlands, which are customarily visited on any Black -Hills trip, form a depression in the high prairies some forty miles long -and fifteen miles across the widest part. This stark and empty waste is -to be found some seventy-five miles east of the Black Hills, or, more -precisely, east of Rapid on U.S. Highway 14-16. - -There are five major access routes to the land of Paha Sapa. From the -west, which is to say from Yellowstone Park, five hundred miles distant, -the Hills can be reached by U.S. Highways 14 and 16. These routes come -in together across the high plains of northern Wyoming, and separate a -few hours’ drive from the South Dakota border, 14 veering to the north -and 16 continuing through the central section of the Hills. - -From the south, U.S. 85 comes up from Denver, four hundred miles -distant, crossing the Lincoln Highway at Cheyenne, and continuing along -the route of the old Cheyenne-Deadwood stage. - -From Omaha and points in the southeast, the Hills are best reached over -U.S. 20 across the top side of Nebraska. Although this route is not a -major east-west route for interstate tourists, it serves a busy -agricultural section and is generally in fine repair. - - [Illustration: The Black Hills; The Badlands] - -From the east U.S. 14 and 16, again, bring the tourist through Pierre, -on the Missouri River, past the Badlands, and into the Hills through -Rapid City. From Minneapolis the distance is just over six hundred -miles, while from Chicago it is very nearly a thousand. - -For those entering the region from the north, U.S. 12 from Miles City, -Montana, is in all probability the best route. - -The gateways to the Black Hills are the towns of Hot Springs in the -south, Rapid City on the eastern edge, Spearfish or Belle Fourche at the -north, and Custer in the west. All these towns offer entirely acceptable -accommodations for a touring family; in fact, no one need drive more -than twenty or thirty miles from any point in the area to find suitable -lodgings at a desired rate. - -Hot Springs, on U.S. 18-85A and State 87, is situated at an altitude of -3,443 feet and has a population of approximately five thousand. It is -the one sector of the Black Hills that does not owe its original -development to the gold rush of the seventies, but was sought out from -the earliest days for its natural thermal springs. - -The town is located in a large bowl of the southern hills known as the -Vale of Minnekahta, from the Sioux name for “warm waters.” Situated as -it is on the rim of the Hills region, it was not included in the general -taboo that cloaked the rest of Paha Sapa to the north; and for nearly a -century before its discovery by the white man in 1875, it was a favored -health resort of the Indians. As a matter of fact, Battle Mountain, -which overlooks the town, takes its name from a legendary war between -the Sioux and the Cheyenne for the exclusive privileges of the hot -baths. - -Not long after the discovery of the springs a syndicate of investors who -had come into the Hills from Iowa bought the ranch claims that had been -taken out in the Minnekahta Canyon, and sought to develop the region as -a spa. This was in the late eighties when salubrious waters were in high -fashion as a cure for arthritis and other joint and muscular disorders -of various degrees of complexity. Colonel Fred T. Evans, who had made a -fortune operating a bull-team freight line from Fort Pierre to Rapid -City, built an elaborate resort, the Evans Hotel, which even today is -imposing in its last-century splendor; and with the arrival in 1890 and -1891 of two railroads, the Chicago and Northwestern and the Burlington, -wealthy cure-seekers from all over the United States made it their habit -to spend the summer months in this pleasant town. - - [Illustration: Highways leading into the Black Hills.] - -Healing waters have long since gone out of vogue as a form of -recreation, and although several clinics still treat a modest number of -visitors for one indisposition or another, the town of Hot Springs has -ceased to be a tourist center of any consequence. Also, the fact that -the Springs are located a considerable distance south of U.S. 16, the -main east-west route through the Hills, has contributed to the -increasing isolation which this town enjoys, drowsily seeing to the -wants of the occasional visitor who strays into Paha Sapa from the south -along U.S. 85. But do not mistake it, it is a pleasant town to stop in, -with excellent motor courts and a good selection of restaurants. - -The town of Custer, a scant fifteen miles from the Wyoming border on -U.S. 16, is little more today than a tourist stopover. It is almost two -thousand feet higher than Hot Springs, at an altitude of 5,301 feet, and -contains, according to the latest estimates, nearly two thousand -residents. - -As the tourist enters the town he will immediately be amazed by the wide -main street; but if he ponders for a moment the problems of turning a -freight wagon behind sixteen oxen, the reason will become clear. Custer, -the western gateway to the Hills, was, until the coming of the -railroads, a major way station on the busy Cheyenne-Deadwood stage and -freight route; and for fifteen years the great bull wagons teamed into -this busy center where, in most cases, the goods were unloaded and -trans-shipped by lighter wagons into the various mining centers -throughout the northern and central Hills. - -Custer, the oldest of the white man’s settlements in Paha Sapa, was -founded in 1875 by gold-seekers who flocked into the territory following -the reports of yellow metal sent back by George Custer after his -exploratory campaign of 1874. In the first spring and summer of its -existence more than five thousand miners swarmed into the region to pan -gold. This invasion was a violation of the government’s treaty with the -Sioux, and the military forced the argonauts to leave. - -By 1876 the Indian problem had come to a head with the defeat of General -Custer on the Little Big Horn in eastern Montana; and as one phase of -retaliation the federal government redrafted the Sioux treaty, allowing -American citizens to enter the Black Hills, until this time reserved for -the Indians. Although for some time the tribal leaders could not be -persuaded to sign the revised agreement, the restrictions on settlers -were removed, and back into the Hills rushed the prospectors—this time -to the new strikes in Deadwood Gulch, in the north. - -By the middle of 1877 Custer, where gold had originally been found, had -a population of a mere three hundred souls, all of them concerned -primarily with the operation of the stage stations and hostels. True, a -few grizzled placer miners still worked the streams near by, and do to -this day; but hard rock mining in Deadwood was the new order of affairs. - -The visitor to this section of the Hills today will find it pleasant to -stay the night in any one of a wide choice of tourist courts and other -reasonable billets, and he may see much of historical interest within a -few miles’ drive of Custer. A settler’s stockade, reconstructed to the -original model of 1874, is a remarkable site to visit, and the Jewel -Cave is best reached from this point. For sheer color and pageantry the -annual celebration of Gold Discovery Days, which is held at Custer late -in July—near the date of the discovery of gold, July 27—is an affair not -to be missed during a Black Hills vacation at that time of year. - -The town of Spearfish is the point of entrance to the region on U.S. 14, -or, coming in from the north, on U.S. 85. This tidy metropolis, called -the Queen City of the Black Hills, never knew the heady history that -marked the early days of Custer, of Deadwood, of Rapid City, or even of -fashionable Hot Springs. Lying outside the magnificent natural bowl of -mineral deposits, Spearfish was founded and exists today for the simple -purpose of supplying the inner Hills with food and produce. It has a -population of between three and four thousand people, most of whose -energies are devoted to agriculture and livestock. - -Spearfish has, however, carved for itself a fame and renown even larger, -in many quarters, than that enjoyed by the gold rush towns of gustier -memories. It is the home of the Black Hills Passion Play. - -This beautiful and stirring performance, which is given in a large -amphitheater on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings throughout the -summers, is a resurrection in an American atmosphere of the -centuries-old Passion of Luenen, in Germany. The man who plays the -Christus, an inherited responsibility through many generations, is Josef -Meier, who fled from Europe in 1932. For six years, with a reassembled -cast, he toured the United States, performing a much trimmed-down -version of the historic morality on college campuses, in civic -auditoriums, and at summer encampments. It was at such a performance at -the Black Hills Teachers College that the citizens of Spearfish were -inspired to offer the touring company a permanent home. Meier and his -group eagerly accepted the offer, and the town constructed an outdoor -theater seating eight thousand people. Now, each winter the Passion Play -continues its tour of the United States, but all during July and August -it remains in residence, acting its moving and majestic pageant to -constantly packed houses. - -The eastern gateway to the Hills is Rapid City, a metropolis of thirty -thousand people which lies on the level prairie just to the east of the -final ring of foothills. Founded, like Spearfish, not as a mining center -but to serve the near-by gold regions, Rapid City has developed a maze -of industrial and commercial enterprises. Shipping, of course, has been -a basic form of commerce from the earliest days, with the two most -heavily traveled trails into the Black Hills, that from Fort Pierre and -that from Sidney, Nebraska, on the Union Pacific, entering the gold area -at Rapid City. Lumbering, manufacture, banking, and livestock quickly -became prominent as the gold fever subsided and the more permanent -settlers began coming into the region to take up the rich cattle and -farming lands in western South Dakota. A final guarantee that Rapid City -will continue to flourish may be seen in the selection by the Air Force -of the high, level prairie land just ten miles to the east of the city -as the nation’s major mid-continent bomber base. - -Rapid City is served by U.S. Highway 14-16, and South Dakota state -highways 40 and 79. Two railroads and a major airline assist in handling -the heavy summer tourist travel, and from Rapid City practically every -point of interest in the Black Hills can be reached by car within three -hours. - - - - - CHAPTER TWO - The Formation of the Black Hills - - -One of the most rewarding features of a visit to the Black Hills is the -opportunity for the average individual, who has no technical training, -to see with his own eyes a museum of the earth’s ages and a living -sample of practically every one of the many aeons of the planet’s -history. - -The Hills, which is to say the rock substances of the region, are older -by hundreds of millions of years than the stone out-juttings of the -Rocky Mountains. Layer after layer of slates and schists from the very -foundations of this globe lie visibly exposed as the end result of a -doming of the region, a vast blistering, as it were, which raised the -entire structure, layer upon layer, several thousand feet in the air. -Following this doming process, a vigorous program of erosion commenced. -Stratum by stratum the winds and rains cut across this huge blister in a -horizontal plane, eventually laying the core open at the height above -sea level at which we find the Black Hills today. From that core, -extending in every direction in the general form of a circle, the -various strata which once lay so smoothly one upon another have been -laid open as one might slice off the top of an orange. - - [Illustration: The Doming of the Black Hills - - Rock Strata being shifted into a dome at the time of the great - continental uplift. - - The forces of erosion—wind and water—have levelled the dome and - opened the seams to view.] - -In order to get an even clearer picture of how this amazing phenomenon -came about through the aeons, let us fold back the ages to the very -birth of this planet. - -For centuries men have attempted to determine the earth’s exact age, but -except for the famed Archbishop James Ussher of Ireland, who gravely -calculated that the earth was formed at precisely nine o’clock on the -morning of the twelfth of October in the year 4004 B.C., no scientist -has been able to come closer than a few million years in the figures. -Through a number of trustworthy measurements, however—including, in -recent years, the examination of the deterioration of radioactive -elements in rocks—geologists have agreed that the oldest known -ingredients of the earth’s crust have been in existence at least two -billion years, and, according to some very recent calculations, possibly -as long as three and a half billion. - -In what is known as the Archean period, the most ancient of which we -have any geological knowledge, a vast sea covered much of North America, -bounded by certain masses of land, the extent of which has never been -discovered. From this land mass remnants of mud and sand were broken -away by waves and deposited on the floor of the sea. Eventually, under -the pressure of its own weight, this material formed shales and -sandstones to an undetermined depth—many thousands of feet. Those -particular sandstones and shales underlie the entire Black Hills area -and extend in nearly every direction for a considerable distance, -suggesting perhaps that the area of the Hills was at one time the bottom -of this watery bowl. - -The Archean period came to an end some five hundred million years ago. -By then the seas had withdrawn, and the new land formations which had -lain under the early ocean merged with the vestiges of the first land -mass. But this metamorphosis, which can be described in such calm -fashion, was by no means a gentle affair. It took place largely as the -result of a shifting and rising of certain ocean bottom areas, among -which was the region where we now find the Black Hills. - -At the time of this uplift, and possibly contributing to it, there was a -tremendous disturbance in the lower regions of the earth which sent -great streams of molten matter up into the several-mile-thick layer of -shale, through which it poured toward the surface, breaking through in -monolithic forms and hardening into granite. The New Mexico writer, -Eugene Manlove Rhodes, describing a similar geologic phenomenon in the -valley of the Rio Grande, has called it “like sticking a knife through a -tambourine,” and indeed it was. Harney Peak, in Custer State Park, is -just such a granite finger pointing up through the original shales -toward the sky. - -When this disturbance took place the granite juttings did not rise above -the surrounding landscape as they now do. In many cases they did not -even reach the surface of the shale beds, but ceased their flow and -hardened short of the crust of the earth, as it was then to be found. -When, however, the region was domed, many millions of years later, the -subsequent weathering of the huge blister did not attack these granite -formations with anywhere near the vigor with which the softer sandstones -and limestones were eroded. What actually occurred, then, was a peeling -away of the softer rocks, leaving the granite formations near their -original sizes, but at last above the ground level in the form of peaks, -needles, and spires. - -But we have gotten ahead of our story. Following the Algonkian period, -when the molten matter was injected into the layers of shale, there came -what is known as the Cambrian period. The Cambrian occupied the first -80,000,000 years of the Paleozoic era, which in itself covered the -entire period from 510,000,000 to 180,000,000 years ago. - -During the Cambrian period the land subsided again, perhaps because of -the weight of the uplifted sedimentary formations. During this -subsidence the waters once again covered vast portions of North America, -and additional muds and slimes were deposited on the bottom. It was at -this period that life first appeared on the earth, in the form of simple -marine organisms which have left fossil remains. These deposits made in -the Cambrian period can be seen in outcroppings all through the region, -although they are most notably found in the area about Deadwood. Because -of their structure they indicate to the geologist that the shoreline of -the ancient Cambrian sea was near at hand, and also that this covering -of water was by no means as extensive or as deep as the earlier Archean -sea. - -The deposits of sand and mud, which were eventually pressed into stone, -occasionally reach a depth of as much as five hundred feet, although -they were laid down extremely slowly, as eddying mud is laid at the -bottom of a pond. In the locality of Deadwood they contained a rich -infiltration of gold, and the entire conglomeration was thoroughly -intermixed with a vast outcropping of much older rock—this effect -undoubtedly having taken place later, during the great continental -uplift, when the final doming occurred. - - - THE AGES OF EARTH - - MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO (Pre-Cambrian Existence back to 3½ Billions - of years) - - PALEOZOIC ERA - 510 - Cambrian Period—First fossils deposited. - Marine life. - 430> - Ordovician Period—Invertebrates increase - greatly. - 350> - Silurian Period—Coral reefs formed. First - evidence of land life. - 310> - Devonian Period—First forests. First - amphibians. - 250> - Mississippian, Pennsylvanian, and Permian - Periods.—Reptiles and insects appear. - Continental uplift at end of this period. - 180 - MESOZOIC ERA - Triassic Period—Small Dinosaurs. First - mammals. - 150> - Jurassic Period—Dinosaurs and marine - reptiles dominant. - 125> - Cretaceous Period—Dinosaurs reach zenith of - development then disappear. Small mammals. - Flowering plants and development of hardwood - forests. - 60 - CENOZOIC ERA & PERIOD - Paleocene Epoch—Archaic mammals. - 50> - Eocene Epoch—Modern mammals appear. - 35> - Oligocene Epoch—Great apes appear. - 25> - Miocene Epoch—Grazing types of mammals - appear. - 10> - Pliocene Epoch—Man appears. - 0 - -The next period of the earth’s age—the Ordovician period, which extended -from 430,000,000 to 350,000,000 years ago—has left its mark just as -visibly upon the Black Hills. It was during this period that the many -species of invertebrate marine life reached a zenith of development, and -that a bed of sediment was laid down and later compressed to a pinkish -limestone. The fact that this Ordovician bed is less than forty feet -thick indicates that the land mass from which the muds and sands were -drawn was very low, and that the Cambrian sea was relatively shallow, -entertaining only minor erosive currents along its shores. - -The next two ages, the Silurian and the Devonian, which brought our -earth down to a scant 250,000,000 years ago, did not see the deposit of -any silting in the Black Hills region. No doubt the waters which covered -the locality dried up gradually. The Mississippian period, however, was -a time of great depositional activity. A layer of limestone between five -and six hundred feet thick was set down over the entire section. In -later periods this limestone underwent much decay and water erosion, -which formed the amazing caverns for which the Black Hills are known. -Wind Cave, now the site of a National Park, Crystal Cave, and Jewel Cave -are the best-known tourist attractions among the many, although there -are a number of lesser ones, some even today only partially explored. - -The chemical activity which accomplished this erosion was caused by the -seeping of rain water down through later accumulations of sediment on -top of the layer of limestone. As it seeped through rotting vegetation -and timber the water collected carbonic acid gases which, when it -reached the level of the Mississippian limestone, eroded the structure -and ate out huge hollows in it. - -The thickness of the Mississippian deposit indicated that at this time -the earth had again sunk beneath the waters to a considerable depth. The -shallow sea which had not offered sediment to a greater depth than a few -feet was replaced by active currents which carried heavier sedimentary -materials from great distances, laying them down on the floor of the sea -in various strata to a depth of several hundred feet. Finally, after an -unknown number of millions of years, but perhaps during the Triassic -period, the land again rose above the level of the waters. A red shale -suggests a time of great aridity when the region must have been a near -desert, and certain discernible patterns in the shales suggest periods -of rapid evaporation and a consequent change in chemical activity. - -Finally the land subsided again, for the last time to date. At times -salt water covered the region, and at other times fresh water left its -chemical mark. At some levels in this last layer of sedimentary rocks an -abundance of fossils can be found, indicating deep water, and at others -ripple-marked rock indicates very shallow water. It remains a period of -great mystery. How long this final submersion continued we do not know; -but in all probability it lasted nearly a hundred million years, and -then was terminated by the vast upending of North America which created -the Rocky Mountains. This upheaval did not take place suddenly, as a -volcanic eruption or a series of earthquakes, but apparently commenced -about sixty million years ago and lasted, as a continuous series of -shiftings and slow upheavals, for about twenty million years. - -At the beginning of this mighty uplifting the region of the Black Hills -was covered by the various layers of sedimentary deposits to a depth of -nearly two miles. Slowly this rectangular area was lifted as a dome over -the surrounding prairies. We do not know how high above the level lands -this dome reached, but we do know that several thousand feet of later -deposits overcapped the granite upthrusts which were planted in the -fundamental shales. Those granite fingers, which have now been exposed -to view, stand from five hundred to four thousand feet above the plains, -and thus the original dome may be assumed to have extended from eight to -ten thousand feet above our present-day sea level. - -Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first started, as soon as the -first land of the Black Hills was elevated above the great sea, the -forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain worked their terrifying -magic on the slowly rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks and -the loose dirt and leaving only the granite outcroppings. Down from the -sides of the great dome poured the waters of melting snows, gushing -springs, and torrential rainfalls, digging out rivers, canyons, and the -deep and narrow cuts which characterize this beautiful region. Slowly -the land continued to rise and the oceans to fall until at last an -equilibrium was reached, a static state of affairs which remained much -the same until our own period, when the base of the dome was at last -revealed, with the surrounding lands drifting away in every direction on -a gentle incline. - -From that day the structure of the Black Hills has changed but little. -The high winds off the Dakota plains and the annual spring run-off and -seasonal rains cut their minute etchings in the landscape; but Nature’s -greatest effort in the Black Hills part of the world has, it seems, been -made. It must be remembered, though, that Nature has had other -responsibilities. At the time of the doming of the Black Hills the Alps -had not yet been formed, nor the Pyrenees, nor the Caucasus. And on the -site of the mountains we know today as the sky-piercing Himalayas, the -swampy waters still moldered. - - - - - CHAPTER THREE - The Hills Today - - -It is this writer’s personal opinion that no other resort area in the -United States possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions as the -Black Hills. This profusion of happy endowments can be separated into -three categories, each of which deserves individual study and enjoyment. -Two of these, the region’s folklore and its memories of the gold rush, -belong to the amazing history of the Hills. But of course the visible -landscape and the natural wonders of the area are the primary objects of -the tourist’s visits, and it is proper that they be considered -immediately and in detail. - - - _Wind Cave_ - -The Wind Cave lies ten miles north of Hot Springs on U.S. 85A. The -cavern is the focal point of interest in its own National Park, which -takes in forty square miles. Nearly half of this park is enclosed with a -high fence, behind which one of the last great bison herds roams -contentedly. Protected antelope, elk, and deer also enjoy this game -preserve. - -The cavern was discovered, according to legend, by a cowboy who heard a -continued low whistling noise in the weeds and, investigating, found air -rushing from a ten-inch hole near the present entrance to the cave. And -indeed it is this very phenomenon that makes Wind Cave different from -other notable caverns, such as the one at Carlsbad. Even on the stillest -of days a steady current of air can be felt rushing in or out of the -cave’s opening—into the earth if the barometer is rising, and out of the -ground if the pressure is falling. - -The National Park Service conducts tours of the cave, the complete -excursion lasting some two hours. Fortunately, although the visitor -descends to a great depth as he searches out the various chambers on the -route, the tour ends at an elevator which whisks him swiftly to the -surface near the starting point. - -The entire cavern is a little more than ten miles long, although there -are portions of it which have not even yet been explored so that their -size may be known with accuracy. It is not graced with the growths of -stalactites and stalagmites normally to be found in limestone -formations, but nature has compensated for that lack by fashioning a -peculiar box-work which looks for all the world as if the cavern had -been subjected to an interminable frosting process. These beautiful -fretwork deposits, which are not to be found in any other cave, are the -result of a strange chemical process that took place in the limestone -stratum where Wind Cave is located. Surface water seeping into the stone -became charged with carbon dioxide gas from the decaying organic matter -through which it passed. This gentle acid then dissolved the limestone -only to redeposit it in cracks and crevices around other limestone -fragments. The precipitated limestone was of a different chemical -composition and resisted later onslaughts by the eroding acids—which, -however, did eat away the fragments around which the precipitate had -formed, leaving the maze of hollow crystalline formations that can be -seen in the various chambers of the cavern. - -The National Park, being relatively small, is not equipped with -overnight facilities; but this does not matter, for the town of Hot -Springs is but twenty minutes’ drive from the park, and the town of -Custer is only twenty miles away. There are, however, camping grounds in -the park, and the Park Service operates a lunchroom at the entrance to -the cave. - - - _Custer State Park_ - -Custer State Park is located almost in the center of the Black Hills. -Containing nearly one hundred and fifty thousand acres, it is one of the -largest state parks in America. It was originally set aside as a state -game refuge, and it was not until the advent of summer touring as a -national pastime that the state of South Dakota purchased additional -private lands which contained scenic wonders, incorporating all of them -into the one large area. - -Today the park is the center of all tourist activity in the region. A -number of excellent lodges, camp grounds, and tourist courts along every -road make it particularly easy for the tourist to stop at will for a day -or more to enjoy the various recreational facilities as his fancy -dictates. In every respect the park is effectively administered: food -and lodging prices are held to a reasonable figure, the cleanliness of -the buildings and grounds is regularly inspected, and the landscape is -protected from commercial exploitation. - -The center of the park’s activities is the Game Lodge, a monstrous -Victorian hotel built in 1919 and operated under a private lease. Close -by the Game Lodge are cabins, stores, eating establishments, the park -zoo, a museum, and the offices of the state park officials. The Lodge, -those with a flair for nostalgia will recall, achieved international -renown in 1927 when President Coolidge made it the summer White House. -It lies on US. 16, thirty-two miles from Rapid City and seventeen miles -from the town of Custer. - -It behooves the writer to mention at this point that the museum -connected with the Game Lodge is by no means the drab and dusty sort of -collection of impedimenta associated with the vicinity that is so often -found in museums at scenic sites. Indeed, this fine attraction is an -assemblage of geological, paleontological, and historical items which -trace with rare discernment the whole history of the Hills through the -ages, and up to our own day. The visitor who fails to pass an hour in -this exciting spot will have missed the heart of the Hills entirely. - - - _Harney Peak_ - -Harney Peak stands like a sentinel in Custer Park. The highest point in -the Black Hills, it rises to an altitude of 7,242 feet, 4,000 feet above -the prairie floor outside the Hills. Higher by 900 feet than Mount -Washington in New Hampshire, it is the highest mountain east of the -Rockies. - -High as it is, Harney Peak is by no means the typical mountain which -tourists come to expect after a trip through Colorado, for example, or -western Wyoming. It is older by ages than the precipitous and craggy -Rockies, and the winds and waters have worked their slow erosion on it, -cutting away what high shelves and escarpments might originally have -existed and leaving it, except at the top, a gentle and easy mountain -that may be climbed over a trail which will scarcely tax the laziest -tourist. - -On the top of the peak will be found the core of granite that originally -broke through the Archean shales. This granite, subject to the -mechanical ravages of wind, rain, and frost, is rugged and coarse, a -steep dome covered with a thick lichen. From this eminence the entire -Black Hills area can be seen, rolling away in every direction—great -waves of pinnacle and mountain, gradually subsiding and disappearing in -the haze of distance which covers the prairies. Especially striking from -this spot is the view of Cathedral Park, with its hundreds of -needle-like spires and organ pipes, and, sheltered in a quiet recess, -that amazing phenomenon, Sylvan Lake. - - - _The Needles_ - -The Needles Highway, a fourteen-mile stretch of road, branches off U.S. -16 about five miles west of the Game Lodge. At the time of its -construction in 1920-21 it was regarded as an engineering marvel, -although later exploits of American highway builders, such as the road -to the top of fourteen-thousand-foot Mount Evans in Colorado, have since -far overshadowed this accomplishment. - -The road winds and curves in an interminable pattern, finding its way, -by trial and error it seems, among the great granite spires that give -the region its name. These “needles,” through the last of which the -highway actually plunges in a tunnel, are the remains of a great granite -plateau which once covered that entire portion of the Black Hills. -Contrary to popular opinion, the rocks are not outthrusts, the result of -some ancient upheaval, but the last thin vestiges of this once-solid -plateau. The age-old process of erosion has carved them into the shapes -they now have; and the inquiring visitor can see the process still at -work, for upon close inspection this granite is found to be not the -impregnable stone it appears, but rock in a late stage of -disintegration. Rot is the word which actually describes this formation, -and in many spots whole chunks can be picked from the side of a spire by -hand. It was, as a matter of fact, this situation which made the -construction of the Needles Highway possible. Had the granite been -solid, the task of cutting the Needles and Iron Creek tunnels would have -been so expensive as to prohibit the entire undertaking. - - - _Sylvan Lake_ - -Not all of the scenery in the Black Hills was created by Nature. Sylvan -Lake, in many respects the most beautiful corner of the region, was made -entirely by hand. - -It was near the turn of the century when two hunters, Dr. Jennings of -Hot Springs and Joseph Spencer of Chicago, got the intriguing idea of -having an additional tourist attraction in the vicinity of Harney Peak—a -lake. - - [Illustration: Along the Needles Highway] - - [Illustration: Harney Peak older by ages than the Rockies] - -Some lakes are difficult to construct, while some are relatively easy. -Sylvan belongs in the latter category. The two imaginative gentlemen -merely bought a small tract of land between two great granite shields -and built a dam seventy-five feet high between the boulders. The waters -of Sunday Creek, which flowed to their dam, together with local springs, -at last contrived to fill the area back of the dam. Today this loveliest -of lakes basks peacefully high above the world at an elevation of 6,250 -feet, actually on top of a ridge, at the north terminal of the Needles -Highway. - -It is easy for any lover of water scenes to become enthusiastic as he -describes the colorations of his favorite lake, so I shall merely state -that Sylvan never looks the same in two consecutive moments. Not having -the symmetry of natural lakes or the tremendous depths of glacial pools, -this body of water plays the role of mirror to the fabulous rock shapes -which surround it; and indeed it is a source of never-ending delight to -watch the cloud and sun patterns as they wrestle with the shadows of the -rocks on its surface. - -For many years Sylvan Lake and its environs were operated privately. A -hotel catered to the tourists who bounced over the privately built road -in buggies and horse-drawn busses. In 1919 the property was purchased by -the state of South Dakota, and since that time it has been operated as a -public facility. When the original hotel burned, in the thirties, the -state built with funds procured from the federal government a -comfortable and modern hostelry, the most amazing feature of which is -the expansive dining room with picture windows looking out over the lake -to Harney Peak. - -The hotel is small, as resort hotels go, containing only fifty rooms, -and the tourist would do well to arrange for accommodations in advance -of his visit. There are, however, a number of cabins operated in -conjunction with the main building, and except at the height of the -season rooms can probably be found in the annexes. Along the lake shore -an excellent restaurant, independent of the hotel, serves the needs of -the traveler who has only a few hours to spend at this stop. - - - _Mount Rushmore_ - -From Sylvan Lake around back of the north side of Harney Peak it is a -drive of but a few miles to the second man-made wonder of the Hills—the -Mount Rushmore Memorial. - -Perhaps no one thing has done so much to make the Black Hills known -throughout the world as this incredible undertaking—the carving in the -natural granite face of a mountain of the faces of our four most revered -presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. -“Teddy” is included for his lasting service to the people of the United -States as the president who saw the Panama Canal project through -Congress and into being. The military and economic values of that -enterprise so deeply impressed the sculptor of this mammoth frieze that -he insisted upon elevating TR into the august company of the other three -great statesmen. - -The whole story of the memorial would fill several volumes, and indeed -has already done so. Briefly, the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, wished to -perpetuate a patriotic motif in stone figures so large that they would -attract visitors from every corner of the country and impress upon them -the glories of the democracy which the four presidents had done so much -to build and sustain. The sculptor’s own words were: “I want, somewhere -in America, on or near the Rockies, the backbone of the continent, a few -feet of stone that carries the likenesses, the dates, and a word or two -of the great things we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high that it -won’t pay to pull it down for lesser purposes.” - -The actual construction work started in 1926, and the formal dedication -was made by President Coolidge in the summer of 1927. Between nine -hundred thousand and a million dollars went into the gigantic task, -including money for supplies, wages, and the sculptor’s own personal -needs during the fifteen years he spent on the project. He died in 1941, -and the work was completed a few months later by his son. - -The immensity of the undertaking can be grasped when the dimensions are -noted. The face of each of the figures, for example, measures sixty feet -from chin to forehead. - -The rough carving was done by dynamite. Borglum, working from a -carefully constructed model, would mark on the sheer sides of the great -mountain the lines where he wanted the stone peeled away. Then a blast -would be set off in the hope that the rock displacement would -approximate the lines marked out, and from that point the work had to be -done by hand. At first, taking lessons from the miners working for him -who had many years of experience in blasting the hard granites of the -region, Borglum was able to reach only within a foot of the final figure -by dynamiting. As he became more proficient in the use of the explosives -he got to the point where his original blasts would shed the stone to a -matter of an inch or less from the final cut surface. The head of -Washington was finished in 1930, that of Jefferson in 1936, that of -Lincoln a year later, and that of Theodore Roosevelt, the final figure, -in 1941. - -There are no tourist facilities at the site of the Memorial. Like every -other place in the Black Hills, however, Rushmore can be reached in a -few minutes’ drive from any one of a number of near-by points where a -tourist might be stopping. Borglum’s studio, situated on a prominence a -few hundred yards from the carvings, gives the best view of the scene -and is open to the public. - - - _Crazy Horse_ - -It is not entirely accurate to refer to the Mount Rushmore Memorial as -_the_ other man-made wonder in the Hills. At the moment it is the only -such marvel outside of Sylvan Lake; but in twenty-five or thirty years -it will have to share that honor with the Crazy Horse Memorial, a statue -carved on top of Thunderhead Mountain, between Harney Peak and the town -of Custer. This gigantic carving, which will be an entire figure and not -a mere bas-relief, will be an equestrian statue of the great Sioux -chief, Crazy Horse, who led his nation during the desperate years -between 1866 and 1877. The chief will be mounted on a prancing steed, -his hair blowing, as if in the wind, behind him. - -The Indians themselves can take the credit for this fabulous idea. Chief -Henry Standing Bear, a resident of the Pine Ridge reservation, is said -to have had his inspiration after a visit to Mount Rushmore. Why not, he -wondered, erect some monument to an outstanding red man, so that when -the last of his people have been assimilated into the white man’s -society, visitors to what was once the heart of the Indian country can -reflect for a moment upon the greatness of that lost race? - -Standing Bear wrote his idea to Korczak Ziolkowski, an energetic and -imaginative sculptor, and suggested that Chief Crazy Horse would make a -fitting symbol of the Indians’ struggle for existence. This was in 1940. - -The sculptor took to the idea, but because of the events of World War II -he was unable to commence work on the project until 1947. Since then he -has been setting off two blasts of dynamite a day, carving away the rock -at the top of Thunderhead. But even yet the first faint outlines of the -eventual statue are only barely discernible. Ziolkowski estimates that -the entire task will consume a quarter of a century, if not more, and -will cost not less than five million dollars. If this figure sounds high -compared with the less than a million spent on Rushmore, perhaps the -measurements will provide an explanation: the horse upon which the chief -will be seated will be four hundred feet from nose to tail, and the -entire work, from pedestal to top, will be more than five hundred feet -in height. - - - _Mount Coolidge_ - -In this same general region lies another prominent Black Hills landmark -which every tourist should take time to visit—Mount Coolidge. With a -height of 6,400 feet, this peak is by no means an outstanding mountain, -being ranked by a good half dozen higher within the Hills. But from its -summit, which can be reached by an auto road leading off U.S. 85A a few -miles to the north of Wind Cave Park, an amazing vista can be seen. To -the east, on a clear day, the White River Badlands loom as a great -valley sixty miles away. To the south one can see across the high -rolling hills all the way into Nebraska, and to the west landmarks in -Wyoming are clearly visible. On the summit a stone lookout tower has -been built for the convenience of visitors. - - - _Jewel Cave and Ice Cave_ - -Since the Black Hills are underbedded so widely by limestone, it is not -surprising to find in them not one but several memorable caverns. There -are, as a matter of fact, a dozen or more well-known large caves; but -outside of Wind Cave, only Jewel Cave has been opened and fully prepared -for public visit. The expense of exploring, lighting, and carving trails -in the others has kept them off the market, so to speak, for in a region -so packed with scenic delights two great caverns are about as much as -the traffic will bear. - -Jewel Cave lies some fourteen miles west of Custer on U.S. 16, almost at -the Wyoming-South Dakota border. It is a small cave, with only two tours -marked out in it, one a mile long and the other two miles. It is noted -for its wealth of colorful crystalline deposits, totally unlike the -delicate filigree work to be found in Wind Cave. - -The cave was discovered by two prospectors, who proceeded to develop -their property for commercial gain. In 1934 they sold the cave and such -of its environs as they owned to the Newcastle, Wyoming, Lions Club and -the Custer Chamber of Commerce. These two organizations sought to -popularize it further as a lure to tourists who would have to travel -through their towns to reach the scene. In 1938 the federal government -took it over and made a national monument of it. - -Not far from Jewel Cave is the famous Ice Cave. This cavern gets its -name from the current of cold air which blows from its mouth, cold and -clammy on even the hottest of summer days. The Ice Cave is not -officially open to the public, and has not even been totally explored. -Forest rangers and Park Service employees have charted some of it and -have searched out certain channels in the strange formation, and from -their meager reports it would seem that if Ice Cave is ever fully opened -it will vie with New Mexico’s Carlsbad in beauty and grandeur. - -For the curious tourist the only possibility at the moment is to take -the lovely off-route trip to the cave’s entrance, a natural arch twenty -feet high and seventy-five feet wide. - -In addition to Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, and Ice Cave, there are a number -of other caverns of varying interest and underground beauty which have -been opened and exploited by private individuals. In many cases these -are but indifferently arranged for public inspection, but can be tracked -down by the visitor by means of the garish signs which too often manage -to clutter the otherwise unblemished scenery. - - - _Just Scenery_ - -The foregoing are only a very few of the scenic wonders of the Black -Hills. Detailed information on the various other scenic features is -easily to be had at any of the hotels and tourist courts in the Hills, -and brochures covering practically every landmark are available gratis, -thanks to the enthusiasm of the local chambers of commerce, the Black -Hills and Badlands Association, and the state of South Dakota. The area -is crisscrossed with good roads, and no matter which route one takes to -his eventual destination, every mile will be marked by breath-taking -views and natural wonders. - -The region, except at the summits of the peaks, lies at an average -altitude of some five thousand feet. Cool nights are thus guaranteed, -regardless of the temperatures by day. The highest mean temperature -ranges, during the six months between April and November, from 60 to 85 -degrees. Light outing clothes are suggested for day wear, and light -wraps are always in order after dark. - -The rainfall during this same six-month period, averaged over fifty -years, amounts to three inches per month; what small showers do occur -take place most usually in an hour or so of the early afternoon, and -refresh rather than hinder the tourist. - -The hillsides are covered with a mass of shrub and tree growth, and an -earnest searcher can find specimens of no less than fifty-two varieties. -Yellow pine, spruce, cedar, ash, aspen, alder, dogwood, and cottonwood -are most in evidence. - -The bird lover will find the Black Hills nothing less than a vast -aviary, more than two hundred species having been seen in the region. -Animal life is almost as widely represented, although the casual visitor -is not likely to come upon a native mountain lion or gray wolf. The -assistance of forest rangers and Park Service employees is available in -locating the habitats of some of the rarer varieties of wildlife. - -As might be expected, the fisherman will find plenty of opportunity to -ply his pole in this region. There are nearly 150 miles of stream and -lake frontage in the Black Hills, and the waters are liberally stocked -by the state hatcheries. In addition to trout, the angler will encounter -pike, pickerel, bluegills, black bass, and perch. - -Finally, there are the annual celebrations and fairs, which are always -of interest to the outsider, for they help dramatize the particular -region where they are held and its historical background. July and -August are the months for these celebrations, and notices of coming -events will be found posted prominently’ along the tourist routes. Four -such outstanding occasions are Black Hills Range Days at Rapid City, -Gold Discovery Days at Custer, the Belle Fourche Round-Up, and the Days -of ’76 at Deadwood. The Deadwood celebration, it might be added, -celebrates not the Revolutionary War, but the discovery of gold in -Deadwood Gulch in 1876. - - - - - CHAPTER FOUR - History I: Indians and Gold - - -Gold, they say, is where you find it. In California in 1848—in Montana -in 1852—in Colorado in 1858—in Arizona, in Nevada: when they finally -found it in the Black Hills in 1874, the Gold Rush West had nearly all -been settled and the bonanza days were forever gone, for all the likely -places had been searched. - -The question posed is an obvious one. With sourdoughs plowing and -digging up the bed of every stream and rivulet in the West from 1849 on, -how did it come about that the Black Hills, lying a considerable -distance closer to home than California and the other gold rush regions, -had kept their glittering secret until so late? - -The truth of the matter is that the mysterious and brooding dark -mountain-land was a good place to hide secrets. Gold had been discovered -there, as a matter of fact, as early as 1834, which was just seven years -after the country’s first gold strike—the 1827 Georgia rush. But -unfortunately those first lucky gold-seekers—there were six of them—did -not live to enjoy their taste of the Black Hills’ incredible wealth. -Fifty-three years later, not far from the town of Spearfish, one Louis -Thoen found a piece of limestone upon which was crudely but legibly -engraved this melancholy message: - - came to these hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra Kind G. W. - Wood T Brown R Kent WM King Indian Crow All ded but me Ezra Kind - Killed by Indians beyond the high hill got our gold june 1834 - -On the back of this somber relic were the blunt words: “Got all gold we -could carry.” - -Yes, there was gold in plenty, but Paha Sapa of the Hills was a jealous -spirit who guarded the forbidden portals with a great vengeance. It is -interesting, though, to speculate upon how the course of western history -might have veered had Ezra Kind made his way out of the bleak region to -report his discovery. Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and most of the Missouri -Valley would have been skipped over in a rush to the prairie West, left -to be filled in and settled later. The upriver ports of the Missouri, -rather than St. Louis, Kansas City, St. Joseph, and Omaha, would have -been the outposts, and there would have been no Santa Fe Trail, no -Platte River—Oregon Trail, but rather a heavily traveled National Road -winding out from St. Paul and from Chicago. Rapid City would have been a -metropolis the size of Denver, and when eventually the Union Pacific was -built it would have been three hundred miles north of its present route. -And the Indians? There would have been a far different story in that -regard, perhaps a much bloodier and more tragic tale. - -But Ezra Kind was killed and his secret slept, and thus we are as we are -today. Actually it was the Indians who kept the Hills so long -forbidden—Indians of the Teton Sioux, the same tribe who put Ezra’s -party to the tomahawk. - -Before the California gold rush life on the Great Plains had proceeded -pretty much on an even keel. The mighty Teton Sioux, all seven tribes of -them—the Oglalas, the Unkpapas, the San Arcs, the Brules, the -Minniconjous, the Blackfeet, and the Two Kettle—roamed the prairies at -will, from the Missouri Valley to the Rocky Mountains. Of course they -had their misadventures with the fur companies, but just as often their -dealings with the Mountain Men were profitable, for the Indians, when in -the mood, scouted, trapped, and hunted, all for the white man’s pay. - -With the great exodus to California, though, the situation took on a -different hue. Immigrants by the hundreds and the thousands poured up -the rolling valley of the Platte, and it was not many months before the -haphazard Indian attacks took on a new strength and design. Long burned -the council fires in the dark nights, and all up and down the great -plains the war raged. To protect the wagon trains the government sent -its shrewdest and most experienced Indian agent, Thomas Fitzpatrick, a -veteran fur trader since 1823, the famed “Broken Hand” of western -legend. Summoning the tribes to Fort Laramie in 1851, Fitzpatrick -managed to subdue them, but only by promising that he would confine the -settlers to specific ranges and would keep them steadfastly out of the -Dakotas and the Black Hills. - -In the meanwhile the eastern tribes, the Santee Sioux, were beginning to -feel the pressure of settlement in the rich Minnesota valleys. In 1862 -they revolted, and the terrible battle of Wood Lake was fought, with the -score of massacred settlers reaching into the high hundreds. The leaders -of this outrage were, of course, apprehended and punished, but whole -tribes fled into the western plains, into the land of the Black Hills, -where they eventually joined forces with their Teton cousins. - - [Illustration: The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial] - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an - altitude of 6,250 feet] - -By 1865 matters had come to a head again, because although the great -Sioux, numbering between thirty and forty thousand, had kept to -themselves, the white man had broken his side of the bargain and was -cutting a new route into the forbidden country. This passage was the -famed Bozeman Trail, which drove north from Fort Laramie, on the Oregon -Trail, directly through the Sioux country to serve the new gold fields -of Montana. - -To protect the wagon trains on the Bozeman the army called upon General -Grenville Dodge, who was later to build the Union Pacific. Dodge, -Commandant of the Department of the Missouri, was an old hand at Indian -warfare. He rushed into Wyoming a full force, four columns of men, who -swiftly brought the angered tribes to heel. - -The immediate result of this engagement was the signing of a halfhearted -and inconclusive treaty at Fort Sully, near Pierre, in October of 1865. -The treaty attempted to settle some old differences of a fundamental -nature, but inasmuch as neither the Oglala nor the Brule were -represented it failed of its mission. - -A year later a further powwow was staged at Fort Laramie to pursue the -matter of keeping the Bozeman Trail open through the forbidden Sioux -country. Perhaps matters might have proceeded equably had not General -Carrington arrived in the midst of the delicate negotiations to announce -that he had enough soldiers to protect the trail, treaty or no treaty. - -Carrington’s blustery announcement, backed up by a show of seven hundred -courageous but misguided cavalrymen, brought the talks to an abrupt end -and sent the two most important Sioux Chieftains, Red Cloud and Crazy -Horse, scurrying for the council fire and the war paths. In all the -great plains there were not to be found braver or more single-minded -Indian strategists than these two. For the better part of two years -roving bands of tribesmen under Red Cloud and his stalwart colleague -amply proved that Carrington could not have kept the trail safely open -if he had had seventy times his seven hundred men. It was, as a matter -of fact, the only time in our long history that Uncle Sam’s troops ever -took a downright beating. - -At last even Red Cloud could see that the white man, for all his -braggadocio and poor planning, would eventually win the turn; and -although his savage troops had tasted victory in almost every -engagement, he consented in 1868 to negotiate once more. Presumably both -sides were wiser by then, for a pact, sometimes called the -Harney-Sanborne Treaty, was dutifully signed and accepted in April of -that year. The United States agreed to close the Bozeman Trail and to -abandon the forts. The Black Hills were utterly forbidden to the white -man, and except for an agreement to let the Northern Pacific rails cross -the upper prairies unmolested, the high plains from the Missouri to the -Big Horn were returned by federal order to their historic isolation. - -After that fiasco the situation remained comparatively quiet for a few -years. Eastern Dakota was being settled bit by bit, and the rails were -pushing forward, ever so slowly but ever so surely. The Missouri River -was the frontier line, dividing the settled Dakotas from the Sioux -lands; and Fort Lincoln, on the river (not far from the site of today’s -Bismarck), was the outpost that overlooked the troubled territory. - -From month to month trappers, gold-seekers, and would-be homesteaders -slipped inside the Sioux curtain from the Cheyenne-Laramie country on -the south, from the rich Niobrara country in northwest Nebraska, or from -eastern Dakota itself. There was not much that the army could do about -these treaty violators except worry, for the borders to be patrolled -were vast and the forbidden lands inviting. - -But the army did worry, endlessly. There were increasingly frequent -rumors of the existence of gold in the Hills, and year after year -General Sheridan, commanding the Departments of Dakota, the Platte, and -the Missouri, urged stronger fortification of the Sioux boundaries to -prevent trouble. Trouble was particularly to be expected because several -bands of Sioux, specifically those under Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, -had not agreed to government supervision in 1868 and seemed thirsting -for a fight. - -Thus it was to make a military survey that Sheridan sent an expedition -through the heart of the Hills in 1874. His force of more than a -thousand soldiers moved under the command of George Armstrong Custer; -and, strange impedimenta for an army, the luggage in the lorries -included mining picks and pans, the belongings of H. N. Ross and William -T. McKay, who were officially attached to the command. Presumably Custer -was looking for something more than mere military sites. - -The Indian fighters of an earlier day—Kit Carson, the Bents, or Sibley, -for instance—would have stood gaping in the stockade as Custer’s force -moved leisurely onto the empty Dakota prairies. This was no ragtag army -in buckskin, but an orderly procession of one hundred and ten wagons, -six ambulances, a dozen caissons, and two heavy field pieces. Each wagon -and ambulance was drawn by a sprightly hand of six sleek mules. - -In addition, three hundred head of beef cattle browsed slowly along the -way in mooing testimony that this expedition would live off the very -fattest of the land. The personnel included, in addition to Custer’s -highly trained troops, a hundred Indian scouts, a platoon of expert -white guides and trappers, and, mounted upon docile mares, a special -contingent of botanists, geologists, geographers, and assorted expert -college professors. Also, as has been reported, there were two miners. - -To the north of the Hills, crossing the Belle Fourche River first, the -army made its gentle way, and then down the west slope of the forbidding -mountains, seeking for an easy pass into the dark interior. Tall in the -saddle rode golden-haired George Custer, for he was commanding the -strongest army ever put into Indian country. It is little wonder that he -slept quietly at night, or that he wrote in his diary: “It is a strange -sight to look back at the advancing column of cavalry and behold the men -with beautiful bouquets in their hands while their horses were decorated -with wreathes of flowers fit to crown a Queen of the May.” - -In that holiday mood the army moved down inside the great bowl of -mountains on its sightseeing tour, and presently it camped about three -miles west of the present town of Custer. All this while the miners had -not been inactive, but had plied their pans here and there as the -company passed across various streams. Until this bivouac, though, they -had had no luck, and, as a matter of fact, had actually been expecting -none. They had come along to quell the rumor of gold as much as to bear -it out. Preferably to quell it, if General Sheridan were to have his -way. - -On August 2 of that year, 1874, McKay turned out to try his implements -once again on French Creek. An early account gives this dramatic version -of the famed discovery: “When the earth [in the pan] was gone, he held -up his pan in the evening sun and found the rim lined with nearly a -hundred little particles of gold. These he carried to General Custer, -whose head was almost turned at the sight.” - -Through the magic of his discipline Custer managed to keep his army from -beating their ration tins into placer pans and “claiming” on the spot. -Getting under way almost immediately, the men continued their march -eastward through the heart of the Hills, and on August 30 emerged from -the great park and headed back to Fort Lincoln. - -In the meanwhile a messenger had been sent ahead with the news of gold. -Scout Charley Reynolds, who was to die with his commander just two years -later, was detached from the base camp and sent scurrying down to Fort -Laramie, to the nearest telegraph station. Within an hour of his arrival -at the post, two hundred miles to the south and west of the Black Hills, -the tremendous news was burning over the wires to General Sheridan in -St. Louis. - -It was also burning some operator’s ear along the way, for the great -secret, which was to be handed only to the high command in Washington, -made its way on that very day into the editorial rooms of the old -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_—where, naturally, it was treated with great -respect and splashed across the headlines with all the vigor of an -announcement of the Second Coming. - -There was actually a genuine religious fervor in the proclamation, for -the locust had been upon the land for many months in the eastern cities, -and the bread lines had been growing. It had threatened to be a cold -winter until ... until this last bonanza burst upon the nation. - -Men had all but forgotten what a gold rush was like. It had been so long -since the last great hegira to the Pikes Peak region that a new -generation had come into manhood, a generation that knew California only -as a state, Colorado as a prosperous territory, and the Union Pacific as -the proper way to cross the empty West. There were none of the desperate -winter marches up the Continental Divide this time, no lost wagon trains -on the salt deserts, no Indian massacres. This rush left Chicago on the -“cars,” as noisy and as highhearted as fans following a football club. - -And there was another great difference between the foray to the Black -Hills and the earlier gold rushes. In this case the argonauts did not -get to the diggings. The troops saw to that. Deploring the untimely leak -of official intelligence concerning the presence of the yellow metal in -the Dakota outcropping, the War Department issued stern warnings to all -settlers to keep away. The existence of the treaty with the Indians was -proclaimed in every paper—and, though less resoundingly, the danger from -the Indians was also mentioned. - -Nonetheless, before the end of that crucial year a sizable group of -foolhardy settlers broke through the blockade and made themselves at -home. Erecting a strong stockade at the scene of the first strike, they -soon carved themselves a town in the wilderness, gratefully naming it -Custer, and even that early providing for the wide main street where ox -teams could make a U-turn. Throughout the first winter these illegal -townspeople managed somehow to survive the cold, the lack of rations, -and the danger of Indian attack; but late in the spring General Crook’s -cavalry arrived to “escort” them out of the Hills and back to the -railroad at Cheyenne. - -Many of the citizens of that first town took their eviction with fair -grace, turning to other means of employment than gold mining—and there -were plenty—in Cheyenne, Denver, and the other near-by and rapidly -growing settlements. One group, though, the Gordon Party, apparently -enjoyed leadership of a tougher sort. They refused to be intimidated by -the troops. Setting up camp on the very boundary line between the -forbidden country and the permitted Platte Valley, they just waited. -Actually, an increasingly large number of immigrants waited on the -border only until nightfall, and then set out into the unknown. Some -were apprehended by the cavalry and returned, some were killed by the -sullen tribesmen, but hundreds of them managed to find their way to the -vicinity of French Creek. More than that, they managed to stay. - -It might be thought that gold mining, with all its necessary -paraphernalia, supplies, and general confusion, could not very well be -carried on in an atmosphere suggesting the more modern practice of -moonshining; but the truth of the matter was that there were just too -many settlers and too few soldiers. Time and again the troops would -swoop down on some busy little gathering and hustle the miners out to -the nearest courts, where they would hastily be acquitted and released -to go back to their workings. Under the very fist of forbiddance a score -of towns had sprung up, among them the reborn Custer City. - -Finally the government gave up all hope of keeping the eager immigrants -out of this last frontier. By the fall of 1875 the border towns of -Sidney, Nebraska, Yankton, South Dakota, and Cheyenne and Laramie, -Wyoming, were bursting at the seams with gold-hunters who demanded -“their rights as citizens.” Bowing to the inevitable, the government -sent a treaty commission to wait upon the Sioux. This body of earnest -men offered the Indians six million dollars for the right of entry into -the Hills. Although the treaty Sioux agreed to sell, the price they -asked wavered between twenty and one hundred million. Crazy Horse, who -did not attend the council, refused to sell at any price and solemnly -warned the white man to stay out. - -Frustrated, the treaty commissioners returned to Washington in despair, -while the embittered Sioux disappeared into the west river country to -nurse their grievances. Upon this turn of affairs, the government washed -its hands of the matter and opened the lands to settlement. - -That was in June of 1875. Within a matter of weeks after the bars had -been let down, the Hills were populated by uncounted thousands of men, -women, and children. Many simply came out of the woods to claim honestly -the diggings they had been working dishonestly; but many, many more came -from the East by every train, now that the country was legitimately -open. - -It was a motley assembly that took part in this Black Hills rush. In -earlier bonanzas the type had been pretty well formalized, for the -difficulty of the overland journey to California, for example, or across -to the Pikes Peak region, had kept all but the roughest—and toughest—at -home. But on this occasion the West was by no means as wild as it had -been in those earlier days. Distances had been conquered; transportation -methods, even beyond the railroads, were much safer and more adequate; -and the Black Hills, although cold in the middle of winter, offered none -of the climatic ferocities of the Rocky Mountains. Thus, to partake of -this feast of yellow dust hopeful clerks brushed shoulders with -desperadoes, professional men of every accomplishment traded rumors with -crease-faced sourdoughs from the dead land south of the Mogollon, and -oldsters who had thought they might never again hold a pan in their -hands dug alongside mere boys from whom the apron strings had been -relaxed. - -In the meantime, even as the good citizens of Custer, Gayville, Central -City, Golden Gate, Anchor City, and a host of other thriving towns, most -of which have long been given over to the ghosts, were bustling about -their exciting business, matters in the west were taking a slow but -inexorable turn for the worse. - -The army had let the situation ride for the summer and fall, keeping a -careful watch over the enemy Sioux, but feeling fairly assured that they -would attempt no large-scale raid of the Hills, populated now by at -least fifty thousand people. Summer and fall were not normally times to -worry over, in any case, for the buffalo were still on the range and -forage was plentiful for the tribes. It was in the depths of winter that -the tale would be told—either the Indians would come docilely to the -reservations for their rations, or they would steer clear of the white -man’s soldiers and supply their own necessities by raiding the isolated -ranch and stage line outposts. - -By mid-December the reservations were still empty, and General Terry -sent out a call to Sitting Bull, ordering him to bring his people in to -the military posts. January 1, 1876, was given as the deadline. The -haughty Sioux chief paid scant attention to Terry’s order, replying -simply that the general knew where to find him if he wanted to come for -him. Sitting Bull knew that the army would attempt no large maneuvers -with the weather as it was—one of the bitterest winters in recorded -history. - -Then he simply waited. - -But General Terry was no man to take a short answer. Immediately he -ordered three expeditions to prepare themselves for the field, to move -as soon as weather should permit, and to take the Indians early in the -spring when their ponies would still be thin and unrecovered from the -winter’s rigors. General Crook was to march north from Fort Fetterman, -on the North Platte River; General John Gibbon was to move south and -east from Fort Ellis, in Montana; and General Custer was to come west -from Fort Lincoln. - -Unfortunately not only the Indians but the weather as well turned -against General Terry, for with the thermometer standing most of the -time at between twenty and forty below and the prairie covered with the -glaze of incessant blizzards, neither Custer nor Gibbon was able to move -out of camp. - -Crook, though, was able to best the winter when March rolled in and to -locate one of the most dangerous of the rebel bands, Crazy Horse’s -renegade Oglalas, deep in the Powder River Valley. This was on March 17, -1876. Had Crook’s men not made certain grave errors of tactics after a -brilliant surprise, the battle might have solved the problem. As it -turned out, the Indians galloped a few circles around the troops and -made merrily off into the forest. Again the weather closed in. - -Three months later, when the summer weather made campaigning possible, -Crook’s troops were able to take to the saddle again, and again Crazy -Horse was located, this time encamped on the Tongue River, between -Powder River and Rosebud Creek. Again the battle was inconclusive, for -the troops seemed unable to press the advantage of their surprise -discovery of the Indians. - -Eight days later, on June 17, the bewildered but indomitable Crook came -a third time upon Crazy Horse, now on Rosebud Creek. On this occasion -the troops were able to euchre the Indians into a pitched battle—and -were thereupon so thoroughly trounced that Crook’s command was -essentially immobilized where the bleeding remnant lay at the battle’s -close. - -By the time the harassed cavalrymen had bound up their wounds and -remounted, Crazy Horse had disappeared over the hills and down into the -Big Horn Basin, where his cohorts joined a host of other bloodthirsty -braves in a great Sioux encampment. Black Moon was there, Inkpaduta, -Gall, and a major roster of other courageous Indian warriors. Counseling -them and performing their good medicine was none other than Sitting Bull -himself, who, it should be said, was not a warrior but a medicine man -and tribal diplomat. - -Historians have never been able to agree upon the number of braves -assembled under this battle flag, but all concur in the belief that the -camp could have contained no less than three thousand warriors—in all -probability the greatest single Indian army ever to be put into the -field against the troops. - -By this time other help was coming for Crook, as he lay in the south -nursing his ill fortune. General Custer, having scouted out Crazy -Horse’s retreat, had been ordered to stop him from the north and to -pinch the Indians between the prongs of his force and Crook’s. - -But it was Custer rather than Crazy Horse or Sitting Bull who met the -pincers. Coming upon the headquarters village of the enemy, Custer -divided his force of 600 men into four groups: Benteen with 140 odd, -Reno with about 125, McDougall with the ammunition and supplies and -perhaps 140 men, and Custer himself retaining the balance. - -While McDougall stayed to the rear, Benteen was sent off on a fruitless -errand into a badly broken terrain to the southwest. Custer and Reno in -the meantime proceeded side by side toward the village. Coming over the -last remaining hill before the Indian camp, Custer dispatched Reno ahead -to make a preliminary contact with the enemy, while he rode off in a -somewhat parallel direction, apparently bent on encircling the savages. - -Meanwhile Reno did indeed encounter the Indians, and when he realized -how tragically outnumbered he was, he immediately dismounted his men to -fight a delaying action on foot, thereby saving both men and horses. He -obviously adopted this tactic on the theory that he would be supported -from the rear by Custer. When he saw that Custer had decided to make a -diversionary attack on the right flank of the enemy, Reno and his men -gave up the fight and concentrated on scrambling out of the trap and -making their way to the hill which overlooked the village. - -From that vantage point Custer and his force could be seen across the -Little Big Horn at a distance of perhaps a thousand yards. Apparently -thinking that Reno was still successfully engaging the Indians, Custer -rode his men down into a ravine where he apparently encountered the full -horde of savages and where he met his death. The details of that last -action have never been made clear, but most experts think that he -divided his pitifully weak force into two segments at the time of the -final charge which took him full into the heart of the great enemy body. -Thus it was that Custer was caught in the pliers of the attack, in which -hopeless position his entire force was wiped out to the last man, -officer, and guide. Custer’s Last Stand, as it has been poetically -called, was in every respect the greatest defeat of white forces in the -history of Indian warfare. - -Custer’s death marked the end of the Black Hills controversy. Although -the Indians had been completely victorious, they had spent so heavily of -their warriors and their supplies that they were never again able to -mount a major attack against the whites. Swiftly the troops hunted them -down, village by village, and within a year the great Sioux War had -ground to a stop. - -A second treaty commission had been appointed late in 1876, and by -February the transfer of the Black Hills from the Sioux Nation to the -United States had been completed—not for a cash consideration, but only -for the government’s promise to support the Indians until such time as -they might learn, under agency supervision, to provide for themselves. - -By that time the question of entry was no more than rhetorical. The -Black Hills were as thickly populated as any region of equal size in the -West. The stage routes in from Cheyenne, from Sidney, Nebraska, and from -the Dakota railheads were well traveled. The last frontier had been -broken. - -And besides—there was Deadwood and the Homestake. - -The original rush had centered in historic Custer, the scene of the -first entrance into the country on French Creek, and the terminus of the -Cheyenne-Black Hills stage line. By Christmas of 1875 the population of -that wilderness settlement was in excess of ten thousand souls, each of -them active and bustling about his business. - -On the other hand, there was not a great deal of business to bustle -after. French Creek was a good clue to gold, but that was about all. -Before long most of the good citizens, having found the little brook -something of a snare and a delusion, were casting about for some way to -make their livings from each other. Storekeeping, laundering, ranching, -hostlering, all were honorable occupations which soon found a plenitude -of practitioners. - -In that fashion the winter was passed. Ice capped the waters and the -snow hung from the trees, and aside from hoping for spring there was -little the thronging populace could do. Thus a fruitful field was in -fallow for the gossip which started blossoming in March and April. The -tales, whispered—as such stories always are—without definition or -authority, had it that somewhere in the northern Hills there was another -stream that had nuggets the size of ... it is unimportant how large the -nuggets, for a glitter of dust the size of an eye-speck would have been -a windfall in Custer. Day by day the rumor grew, and as is always the -case with such gossip, the precise location of this “Deadtree Gulch” was -never made entirely plain. - -The reason for this obfuscation was simple: a rich strike had actually -been made far in the north part of the Hills, and the claimants were -doing their level best to keep it a secret. The fact that Custer held -its population as long as it did was a testament to the sagacity and -close-lippedness of John Pearson and Sam Blodgett, who had stumbled, -late the previous winter, into one of the world’s richest gold basins. - -The secret held for only a few months. Trappers, prospectors, and mere -travelers were passing through the spruce trails of the Hills in such -profusion that sooner or later the activity up Deadwood Gulch, as it -came to be called, was bound to be observed. Pearson had found his dream -cache in December of 1875, and he managed to contain the secret only -until March of 1876. Like a forest fire the news of the strike to the -north spread, and by May the southern Hills were deserted. Custer, for -several years the metropolis of the entire region, lost all except -thirty of its citizens in a matter of weeks, and other settlements in -the south and west simply dried up and disappeared. - -That Deadwood Gulch, so named for the stand of burned-over timber which -graced its declivitous sides, contained a major deposit was not to be -denied. The rich sands which Pearson had spaded up testified to that, -and later comers were by no means disappointed. But the names and -locations of individual early discoveries have long been lost to all -save the most assiduous researchers, for there was one claim which -outshone all the rest. That digging was the mighty Homestake, which, -from its first days, has produced gold and assorted other precious ores -in such abundance and with such dependability that it has been accepted -the world over as one of earth’s great mines, rivaled in munificence -only by the Portland-Independence of Cripple Creek in Colorado and the -fabulous workings of the Witwatersrand of South Africa. - -As with all rich diggings, an appropriate legend attends the account of -the original discovery of the Homestake. It seems there were two -brothers, Fred and Moses Manuel, who had long been addicted to that most -vicious of all unbreakable habits—gold prospecting. Moses had wound his -weary way through the West for a full quarter of a century, plodding the -dusty California gold gulches in ’50, up the steep heights of Virginia -City in ’60, into Old Mexico, and—although he was a full generation too -early—into Alaska. But now, in 1875, he was through with it all and was -going home. - -Collecting his brother Fred, who was fruitlessly panning the sands of -the Last Chance Gulch in the high border country of Montana, Moses -started east, passing of course through the Black Hills, to scout down -this one last ray of rumor—that a new strike was in the making. Setting -out their camp in Bobtail Gulch, a mere pistol shot from certain placer -claims in Deadwood Gulch, they went to work in midwinter, hoping to -find, the legend has it, just enough blossom rock to give them a stake -for their homeward journey. - -They seem to have hit it with a vengeance, not mere placer gold in the -stream bed but a genuine lode, for on April 9, 1876, they patented the -claim known as the Homestake. Discarding for the moment all idea of -going on home with whatever meager wealth this “last” try should bring -them, the Manuel brothers immediately consolidated their position by -going into partnership with another prospector and taking shares in the -Golden Terra, an adjoining piece of real estate, the Old Abe, and the -Golden Star. The immediate returns, by the ton, are not today known, but -they must have been substantial, for the lucky brothers built an -arrastra—a crude millstone affair for grinding ore—and managed to pocket -more than five thousand dollars in their first year of operation. - -In the natural run of events the Homestake and the adjoining parcels -which the Manuel brothers were operating would probably have worked well -enough for a year or so, and would then have suffered the fate of -thousands of other diggings throughout the gold-rush West—the surface -ores would have played out, and because of the high cost of following -the lodes deeper into the earth than a few dozen feet, the mines would -have been abandoned. But in this case a San Francisco syndicate came -into the picture, providing the necessary capital funds for the -searching out of whatever ultimate wealth the Homestake might have. - -This syndicate of Pacific Coast businessmen included James Ben Ali -Haggin, a partner in the highly solvent Wells Fargo express company, and -Senator George Hearst, the father of the publisher, William Randolph -Hearst. These vigorous men sent a mining engineer into the Hills in 1877 -to canvass the location for possible investments; and in the course of a -detailed examination of whatever properties seemed to be paying well, -this emissary from Market Street came upon the brothers Manuel. A -superficial examination of the Homestake and the Golden Terra sufficed -this engineer, and he optioned them both, the first for seventy thousand -dollars and the second for half that sum. Returning immediately to -California, he delivered to his employers samples of this richest gold -mine in North America, and without delay Senator Hearst went to South -Dakota to see for himself. - -What he saw impressed him most favorably, for upon his return to -California he owned both the Terra and the Homestake, as well as several -other claims on the same hill, a total of ten acres of mining property. -That small figure is significant in the light of the fact that the -Homestake Mining Company today owns more than six thousand acres of -mining claims. - -With the incorporation of the mining company in San Francisco, the -aboriginal methods employed by the Manuel brothers were discarded, and -the latest in mine machinery was laboriously shipped by train to Sidney, -Nebraska, and then by ox team the two hundred miles to the town of Lead -(pronounced “Leed”), the precise location of the Homestake, two miles -from Deadwood City. The first installation was an eighty-stamp mill, -which began its work in July of 1878. Within five years six additional -mills were in operation, holding a total of 580 giant stampers. - -The mine now handles four thousand tons of ore per day and has, in its -sighted reserve, twenty million tons yet to work. The two main shafts -reach into the earth to a depth of more than a mile, with branching -tunnels piercing the mountain at hundred-foot levels; and there are more -than a hundred and fifty miles of secondary tunnels, served by more than -eighty miles of mine railway. - -The richness of the Homestake ore has averaged fourteen dollars per ton -for many years now. This may not sound like any considerable amount of -wealth—but the most active gold operation in Colorado, the Fairplay -dredge, is working gravel which pays an average of nine cents per ton. - -Finally, the records of the company show that it has mined 70,000,000 -tons of ore, yielding a total of 18,000,000 ounces of gold, which has -brought a gross price, at various standards, of $450,000,000. - -With the opening of the Homestake, the conquest of the Black Hills was -effectively completed, and the region entered into a period of rapid -development and expansion. Although the great mine at Lead was run -solely as a business enterprise, devoid of glamour and excitement, the -town of Deadwood, two miles away, enjoyed a decade of the lustiest -history ever to be known by a bonanza town. During its years of activity -and arrogance Deadwood contributed to our national folklore several -great figures, among them Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill -Hickok, and Preacher Smith. - - - - - CHAPTER FIVE - History II: Deadwood Days - - - Sam left where he was working - one pretty morn in May, - a-heading for the Black Hills - with his cattle and his pay. - Sold out in Custer City - and then got on a spree, - A harder set of cowboys - you seldom ever see. - —“Legend of Sam Bass” - -It has become the literary custom to recall our bonanza frontier less as -an economic phenomenon than as a backdrop for bloodshed, mayhem, and -assorted turns of vigor and violence. Early California, for example, is -today known less as the scene of the accomplishments of James Fair, -Charles Crocker, and Leland Stanford than as the arena for the armed -forays of Joaquin Murietta, Black Bart, Dick Fellows, and various other -gunmen. Since this is the accepted practice, it is entirely appropriate -to introduce the gold-rush days of the Black Hills with a brief account -of the banditry and thuggery which accompanied the early growth of that -last frontier. - -The quotation at the head of this chapter is one verse of an old folk -ballad, “The Legend of Sam Bass,” the not particularly inspiring saga of -the life and death of an Indiana-born horse thief and road agent. -Actually, Bass had little to do with the history of the Hills, and as -anybody knows who has ever whistled or sung his song, the bulk of the -chronicle concerns his struggle against the Texas Rangers. - -On the other hand, Sam Bass will long live in Black Hills history, for -regardless of his other accomplishments he went to his glory bearing the -credit for having originated the fine art of stage robbery in that -Dakota wilderness. The Black Hills, like every other gold region, -enjoyed but scant holiday from the pestiferous road agents. During 1875 -and 1876, when the region was filling up, it seemed that there was -plenty to occupy the imagination of every individual who was able to -make the tortuous trip from the railroad. But by 1877 the area had -calmed down to such an extent that idle hands could occasionally be -counted in the dram shops, and the time was ripe for the devil to get in -his work. - -From the point of view of geography the Hills presented ideal conditions -for armed assault. The two major stage lines leading into the region -were the Cheyenne-Black Hills Line, running through two hundred miles of -desolate emptyland, and the Sidney Short Route, less long by some thirty -miles, but passing through equally lonely country. In addition, one -freight and stage line came in from the east, from Fort Pierre, and -another from the north, following the general heading of Custer’s 1874 -expedition. The gold, though, most often traveled the fastest route, out -to the Union Pacific at Cheyenne or Sidney. - -During the first twenty months or so of the Black Hills gold rush, armed -guards were not normally counted among the personnel of the stage -coaches. As a matter of fact, in most instances it was to be questioned -whether or not any gold rode the stages, for the going was generally -thin in the diggings, and the average operator accumulated his bullion -for several months before amassing a shipment large enough to be worth -the trouble and worry. For all the wealth of the Homestake, the Hills by -no means repeated California’s early history, when every stage worth -tying a horse to carried at least some treasure. And yet, in the -springtime most of the miners cleaned up their winter’s take, it was -commonly understood, and ... well, Sam Bass must have thought, every -good thing must have a beginning. - -In March, 1877, Bass organized a gang of cutthroats in Deadwood, and the -brief period when one could ride the coaches in comparative safety came -to an end. It was not much of a gang that the legendary bandit gathered -around him, the five other men being mostly cowardly and quite -worthless, either as adventurers or as strategists. Bass himself was -little more than a “punk,” as he would be called today, and, as a matter -of fact, did not earn his immortality until much later, in Texas, where -he was shot down in a barber chair by a Ranger. - -The gang, if they might so be called, foregathered on the snowy night of -March 25 in Deadwood and, after consuming sufficient whiskey to enable -them to stand the cold, made their way down the south road to a point a -few miles from town where they might intercept the incoming stage from -Cheyenne. What genius of diabolical planning led them to attack an -inbound conveyance, which could be carrying little more than ordinary -mail, rather than the “down” stage, which might possibly be loaded with -bullion, has never been figured out, but at any rate they camped -themselves in the snow and waited. - -At last the stage hove into sight, and Bass, the trusty leader, -cautioned his hoodlums not to shoot, but merely to stop the coach and -demand the mail pouch. Presumably the sentiments of the period held that -robbery without gunfire was quite condonable, and an entirely different -affair from burglary accompanied by shooting. It is also quite possible -that Bass was only minding his own safety, for the night had already -been marked by one misfortune—one of his men had managed to shoot -himself in the foot while putting on his deadly hardware. - -As might be expected, however, Bass’s well-laid plans went very much -agley. In the excitement of calling “Halt!” one of the bandits proved a -bit too eager-fingered, and even as the stage driver was reining his -team to a stop, a shotgun blared out, emptying its charge at close range -into the driver’s chest. - - [Illustration: Calamity Jane, during her carnival days] - - [Illustration: Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait] - - [Illustration: Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded - by shotgun messengers] - - [Illustration: Deadwood Gulch in 1881] - - [Illustration: Modern Deadwood—seventy years later] - -With the shot the horses bolted, and shortly thereafter they pounded -into Deadwood, guided by a hatless passenger who had managed to secure -the ribbons as they dangled. Within a matter of minutes a posse had been -formed and riders were making their way into the woods. Inasmuch as Bass -and his companions had been acting suspiciously during the afternoon and -evening, the finger of accusation pointed altogether correctly in their -direction, and before the moon was down Sam Bass was well on his way to -Texas, escaping Deadwood’s justice only to go to his lathered doom. - -This tragic foray against law and order set the stage, so to speak, and -before long the spruce trails of the Black Hills, once so still and -harmless, could be passed over safely only in the company of “shotgun -messengers,” as the armed attendants were called. It did not take the -stage companies long to come to this way of operating, for Wells Fargo, -which contracted for the express business, had had a quarter-century of -rugged experience. Bringing their brave talents swiftly to bear on the -situation, the Wells Fargo men steel-plated the coaches to be used for -bullion shipments, and brought into the Hills the famed treasure chests -which had figured so largely in the history of the coming of law and -order to California—metal-bound cases too heavy to be transported -quickly from the scene of crime, and too sturdy to be opened except -after arduous work with chisels and crowbars. The chests had been -developed with the idea that a posse could be gathered at the spot where -a stage had been held up before the gold could be removed from the chest -or the chest itself taken far away. - -A more important safety factor than the chests was the reputation of the -shotgun messengers. The express companies went to great lengths to -engage only the most fearless and law-abiding men they could find for -this dangerous task, and time and time again thousands upon thousands of -dollars in bullion rode across the lonely trails with no more than one -man, his shotgun, and his reputation for bravery guarding it. - -Wyatt Earp, perhaps the most noted of these messengers, entered his long -tour of Wells Fargo duty through that firm’s Deadwood office. Earp, as -any lover of western legend will tell, earned his vigorous reputation as -marshal in the bloody Kansas cattle towns of Dodge City and Abilene. -After the excitement of these Gomorrahs had worn off, he made his way to -Deadwood in 1876—not as a gold-seeker, but apparently merely in search -of honest and not too dangerous employment. At any rate, his brief stay -in the Hills was given to the profession of coal and wood dispensing -rather than to law enforcement. Either the weather or the lethargy of -the place suited him poorly, for within the year he was casting about -for some means of making his way back to his own plains country. - -Taking advantage of the public clamor against road agents after the Sam -Bass affair, he offered his services to the express agent and was hired -for the single trip out for fifty dollars cash and free passage. The -agent was by no means doling out any charity in this exchange, for he -knew the value of Earp’s reputation and looked upon the fifty dollars as -a cheap form of insurance. He advertised in the local newspaper: “The -Spring cleanup will leave for Cheyenne on the regular stage at 7 AM next -Monday. Wyatt Earp of Dodge will ride shotgun.” - -Bullion shippers were quick to take advantage of this extra protection, -and it was recorded that no less than two hundred thousand dollars in -bullion was weighed in for that special trip. It would be most dramatic -to recount that Earp’s one trip was marked by attempted mass raids, -burning coaches, and wounded drivers, but the truth of the matter is -that the journey was made on time and in good order. Only one shot was -fired, and that by Marshal Earp, who took offense at the suspicious -actions of a rider whose course seemed to parallel the stage route for -an unaccountable distance. Without stopping the stage or otherwise -alarming the passengers Earp dropped the offending horseman a few miles -out of Deadwood, and the rest of the trip was made without incident. - -Despite the vigor with which the treasure coaches were protected, armed -robbery continued to take place sporadically all during the final decade -before the rails pushed through from the East. By and large these -forays, while bloody, were unsuccessful, and not a single desperado was -able to rise to any sort of fame during that period. On the other hand, -there was one robbery which must go down in history for the strange way -in which the loot was recovered. - -This particular villainy, remembered as the Canyon Springs robbery, took -place on September 28, 1878. The locale of the outrage was not far out -of Deadwood on the rough way through Beaver Creek and Jenney Stockade -into Wyoming and thence to Cheyenne. The coach, on this fateful -occasion, was rumored to be carrying nearly one hundred thousand dollars -in ingots from the Homestake, as well as from other works; and although -shipments of such size were not altogether rare, they were sufficiently -out of the ordinary to suggest the services of additional shotgun -messengers. It may well have been the mere fact of the scheduling of -additional guards that called the attention of the bandits to this -particular manifest. - -The holdup took place in midafternoon, as the driver was stopping the -coach to water the horses. In the gunplay three men were killed, and the -bandits escaped with the loot from the treasure chest, which they -apparently managed to chisel open. Ten miles away one of the guards came -upon a party of horsemen, who returned to the scene of the carnage; but -upon their arrival they found the coach despoiled of its gold. - -In many such cases the bandits would have been recognized as local or -near-local citizens; but in this instance all of the desperadoes -appeared to be strangers to the Hills, and consequently the law officers -had very little except guesswork to guide them in their pursuit. -Guesswork coupled with just plain snooping soon uncovered a trail, -however, for one of the stage agents turned up a ranch owner who gave -the information that a small group of men had, on the very evening of -the holdup, bought a light spring wagon from him. Such a transaction was -unusual enough to indicate that the purchasers were by no means -individuals of legitimate calling, and in all probability were the -actual bandits. Setting out on this trail, the agent managed to trace -them and their wagon all the way to Cheyenne, where the group had -apparently turned to the east. - -By that time persons who had seen them in passing had recognized them, -and their names were broadcast to the marshals and sheriffs of all the -eastern regions of the plains. Day after day the stage agent followed -their trail east, across the Missouri, across the border of Nebraska, -and on to the pleasant town of Atlantic, in Iowa. By that time the wagon -had been discarded and the gang had broken up, and the agent was -following only one spoor—the track of a young man who was always seen -with a strange, heavy pack on his back. - -In the town of Atlantic the trail came to an abrupt end, and indeed the -mystery might never have been solved had it not been for a strange -display in the street window of a local bank. Pausing to see what it -might be that was engaging the attention of a crowd at the window, the -agent was astounded to behold part of the very loot he was pursuing—two -bullion bricks stamped with serial numbers which identified them beyond -a doubt as part of the Canyon Springs treasure. - -Upon questioning, the banker proudly asserted that his son had only the -day before returned from a successful adventure in the Black Hills, and -had, as a matter of fact, found a gold mine, which he had sold for the -very bricks making up the exhibit. - -Gently the agent disabused the banker of this sad misapprehension, and, -enlisting the aid of the local Sheriff, had the prodigal son arrested. - -The unfortunate conclusion to this tale of detective expertness is that -although the gold was eventually returned to the Homestake, the young -bandit escaped from the train which was carrying him back to Cheyenne, -and was never thereafter apprehended. As for the other four robbers and -the rest of the treasure, no further trace of either was ever -discovered. - -Although banditry and skulduggery played a very great part in the tales -of most of the other bonanza gold fields, the Black Hills story was for -the most part happily without extraordinary violence. Much more -conspicuous in the history of the Hills than the desperate adventures of -bandits are the exploits of the folk heroes who rode the Deadwood legend -into immortality. Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, -Preacher Smith, all of these amazing personalities achieved a lasting -fame during the early days of this later frontier, not for any deeds of -derring-do in the Sam Bass fashion, but for the old American custom of -living and dying in a high and wide manner. - -In all probability Deadwood Dick has carried the saga of the Hills -farther and to a greater audience, both in this country and abroad, than -any of the others, and for that reason, as well as for the strange -circumstance that he never existed, it is perhaps well to tell his story -first. - -Dick, who never had a last name, was nothing more nor less than the -happy creation of an overworked literary side-liner eking out a living -in the late seventies. Having exhausted the possible plot complexities -of such heroes as Seth Jones and Duke Darrall, Messrs. Beadle and Adams, -proprietors of that stupendous literary zoo, The Pocket Library -(published weekly at 98 William Street, New York, price five cents), -urged their hack, Edward L. Wheeler, to crank out a new character. This -Shakespeare of the sensational, having recently heard of the brave -doings in Deadwood, of the Black Hills, promptly created a latter-day -Leatherstocking, Deadwood Dick. - -Dick’s success was instantaneous, for there was a sense of truth in -these stories which had theretofore been missing. Dispatches in every -post brought the news of Deadwood as it was happening, and thus the -weekly appearance of another Deadwood story was able to hang itself -firmly on the coattails of reality. In one episode Dick courts Calamity -Jane, who actually existed at the time, and finally marries her. In -another, Our Hero is a frontier detective, fighting bravely on the side -of law and order. In still another he has turned to robbery, and at one -point is actually strung by his neck from a cottonwood gallows. - -After exhausting the many plot possibilities of the Black Hills, Dick, -who had become as real to his readers as George Washington, began to -work both backward and forward in time and space. In one set of -adventures he is shown to be an active Indian fighter; in another he -turns up with Calamity Jane in the town of Leadville, Colorado, which -came into its glory not long after the strike in Deadwood. - -At last the many loose ends of the story so entangled author Wheeler -that he gave up Deadwood Dick as a lost cause and out of nowhere fetched -him a son, Deadwood Dick, Jr., who marched on to the turn of the century -and down into our own time. Indeed, his noble features can still -occasionally be found staring gravely up from a pile of old and dusty -magazines in attic corners. - -With such a heritage it is little wonder that as the town of Deadwood -grew away from its infancy, and as its modern Chamber of Commerce turned -to summer pageants as a source of tourist interest, Deadwood Dick should -be revived and paraded. Deadwood’s summer festivals, the gay “Days of -’76,” are built around a town-wide re-creation of the gold rush, with -the natives chin-whiskered, booted, and costumed within an inch of their -lives. During this gusty week otherwise sober and retiring citizens turn -themselves out as stage coach drivers, Indians, and pony express riders, -and the nights are filled with such a bubbling halloo that the tourists, -who come in ever larger droves, are able to go home and report that they -have honestly spent time in a frontier town. - -To heighten the effect, the impresarios of this gay divertissement many -years ago decided to raise Deadwood Dick from Beadle’s pages and put him -on the street like all the other self-respecting Calamity Janes and Wild -Bills. Locating an oldster who looked not unlike the artist’s original -concept, they dressed him in an assortment of western oddities and gave -him time off from his duties as a stable hand while the festival was in -session. For several years this simple pretense was carried on, and no -sleep whatsoever was lost over the fact that a mild fraud was being -perpetrated on the visiting Iowans. - -In 1927, though, when South Dakota was negotiating with Calvin Coolidge -to get him to spend his summer in the Hills, the stable hand, whose name -happened to be Dick Clarke, was sent to Washington to extend a personal -welcome to the President. Patently a publicity stunt, it fooled nobody -but old Dick himself. The rigors of the trip and the succession of -tongue-in-cheek honors heaped upon him somehow tilted the old man’s -mind, and from that day until his death a decade later he fully believed -that he was the original Deadwood Dick. Frowning down any suggestions -that he doff his beaded finery and return to the care of the oat bins, -he betook himself far from the gentle safety of the Deadwood that he -knew and that knew him, and took to touring the backwoods with -fifth-rate medicine shows and Wild West pageants. Somewhere along the -line he got up a small pamphlet which he sold to the gawking audiences -who thought they were seeing a genuine frontiersman. In this amazing -tract he spelled out such of the facts of Wheeler’s stories as were -coherent and in logical time sequence. The rest, including a date and -place of birth, he soberly filled in for himself. - -And that was Deadwood Dick. When he finally died, back in Deadwood in -the early forties, much of the town had come to believe as he did that -there had been a Deadwood Dick, just as there had been a Calamity Jane, -and that this gaffer had been the very person. His cortege was solemnly -followed, and to this day flowers are sprinkled on his grave by confused -but loyal residents of the Hills. - - -Wild Bill Hickok, on the other hand, actually lived, and actually died -exactly as the legend goes, with aces and eights in his hand. It was -this unfortunate occurrence, as a matter of fact, that gave to that -particular poker hand its gruesome name, Dead Man’s Hand. - -Somewhat in the manner of Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill achieved a large part -of his fame through the earnest efforts of Beadle & Adams. That is to -say, much of his renown came after his untimely demise, and much of it -was deliberately generated to satisfy the great western-yearnings of the -avid book-buying public. In addition to the publishers’ efforts on -Bill’s behalf, great impetus was given to his posthumous repute by -Calamity Jane. Nevertheless, in all probability Hickok was actually the -fearless and sterling character his legendeers have depicted, and had he -not been brutally done to death by feckless Jack McCall he would -doubtless have earned even greater fame through his own efforts in later -years. - -James Hickok was born into a farming family in Illinois in the year -1837, and passed a quiet and respectable boyhood in the ordinary -pursuits of such an existence. In his nineteenth year he, like so many -other young men of that day, felt the urgent call of the Far West. He -hired himself out forthwith as a teamster in a wagon train to the -Pacific Coast. - -Returning at the end of this one visit to the golden shores, he managed -to land in the Platte Valley of the eastern Rockies in the very year -when gold was being discovered in that region. The following two years -he spent in odd jobs around Denver and on the high plains to the east of -that new city. During all this time, however, it seemed as if his heart -were hungering for the lower country. He let his drifting carry him -slowly back into Kansas where, at the beginning of the Civil War, he -managed a station for Hinckley’s Overland Express Company, which was -then staging from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Denver and into Central City. - -All these adventures gave ample opportunity for any young man of spleen -to entangle himself a dozen times over in killings, brawls, and assorted -rough businesses, but through this entire period James Hickok gave -evidence of being nothing but a stalwart and well-intentioned -individual. - -The harmlessness of his pursuits, though, came to an explosive end after -one year in this genial work, when he indulged in pistolry with a -certain McCanles gang. One version of the Wild Bill legend states that -the “gang” were cutthroats, and that Hickok was only defending his -company’s property. Another version, equally trustworthy, has it that -the McCanleses were Confederate sympathizers, attempting to raise a -cavalry unit in the region and thus offending Hickok with his Unionist -leanings. Whatever the reason, the outcome was bloody. No one today -knows for certain how many men were killed, for eyewitness accounts have -included reports ranging all the way from one to six, all of them -presumably slain by Hickok. - -The doughty station manager, his helper, and another stage company -employee were speedily brought to trial for the affair, and just as -speedily acquitted of any crime. Shortly after that Hickok resigned his -express company affiliation and joined the Union army, fighting the war -out as a trusted though undistinguished scout. - -After his discharge in 1865, he seems to have forsaken forever his once -peaceful way of life, and thereafter blood was more than occasionally to -be found upon his hands. His first postwar killing took place in -Springfield, Missouri, in a duel with a gambler; and later that same -year he was reported to have mortally wounded another card player in -Julesburg, Colorado Territory. In the next year another report, -unofficial like all the rest, had him killing three more men in -Missouri, and in 1867—this _was_ official—he went to the booming cow -town of Hays City, Kansas, where he was shortly offered the post of -marshal. - -That his reputation, whether truthful or legendary, was growing there -can be no question. By 1867 he was accounted to be one of the best -gunmen of his time and place, quite possibly for the simple reason that -he had survived so many fights. For all the shadowy overtones of his -story, he was also reputed to be a devotee of righteousness and order, -although this facet of his character may or may not actually have -existed. He was well known to be a gambler, and his victims were all -(except the McCanleses) supposed to be cheaters at cards. Whether his -vivacity with Mr. Colt’s revolver was intended to rid the earth of -dishonest men or merely to avenge a lost hand is beside the point, for -his acceptance of the position of marshal of Hays City indicates that -for a time, at least, his inclinations lay in the direction of law and -order. - -From Hays City he went to a similar post in Abilene, where he bore the -star until 1872. During all this time he was forced to kill but a bare -minimum of unworthy citizens, his ever growing repute as a dangerous man -with a gun apparently frightening would-be desperadoes out of his orbit. -Three notches were all that he placed upon his weapon during his service -in those two hell cities of the prairies—definitely a world’s record in -reverse. - - [Illustration: One of the Black Hills’ many streams] - - [Illustration: The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared] - -Apparently the inactivity came to bore him, for he soon gave up police -work to return to the army for two years as a scout. This harsh calling -also failed to satisfy whatever inner wants were making themselves felt, -and in 1874 he resigned to join a traveling show with Buffalo Bill. - -In 1875, however, he was to be found no longer behind the chemical -lights, but idling his time away in Cheyenne. During this restless -interlude he married a circus rider named Agnes Lake. Shortly after the -ceremony, which took place in 1876, he followed the trail to Deadwood, -arriving in April and setting up camp with another ex-army scout. The -motives which drew him to that thriving boom town were, in all -probability, those which drew the thousands of others—mere curiosity and -the hope that something might turn up. Indeed, during the four months of -his Deadwood hiatus he did very little but play poker in the famed -saloon known as Number Ten. That he was as accomplished a gambler as he -was a gunman was doubted by no one, and through his ability with the -pasteboards he apparently kept himself in such funds as he needed. He -did not attempt to look for gold, nor did he seek any official post in -the town. He merely played the long hours away at cards. - -One might expect such a man as Wild Bill Hickok to meet his nemesis in -open battle with a murderous cutthroat seeking to pay off an old score. -Western legend is filled with such fitting come-uppances. But in this -rare case our hero was killed in a peaceful moment by a total stranger -and for reasons which nobody was ever thereafter able to discern. - -On the fateful day of August 2, 1876, he entered Number Ten shortly -after the lunch hour to take up his everlasting hand of cards. Normally, -being a prudent man, he insisted on a seat with its back to a wall, from -which vantage point he could keep his eye cocked for trouble; but on -this day, for some reason, he arrived just too late to take his -customary position and had to accept a chair with its back to the door. -The game proceeded amiably enough for a while, and there was nothing in -the afternoon air to suggest violence of any sort. At last a normally -inoffensive deadbeat, one Jack McCall, turned from the bar where he had -been enjoying a quiet drink and, passing the gaming table on his way to -the door, suddenly and without a word pulled his revolver from his vest -and put a shot through Wild Bill’s skull. - -The effect was instantaneous. When the news spread that Wild Bill had -been killed, all work stopped in the city and men streamed in from every -corner, expecting at the very least to find a major battle in progress. -When finally the crowds were quieted down and it was learned that the -killing was nothing more than a mere murder, the populace speedily -hunted up the terrified McCall, whom they found huddled in a near-by -stable, and arranged a formal trial. The facts that Deadwood was at that -time still out of bounds to American citizens and therefore under no -legitimate civil jurisdiction and that the judge, jury, and prosecuting -attorney were elected on the spot by a show of hands, having therefore -no official standing, did not dampen the ardor of the crowd. A trial was -a trial, and its results would presumably be fair and honest. - -As a matter of fact, Jack McCall must have been the most surprised -individual of all at the ultimate fairness of the legal machinery which -had been set up in his honor. With the acceptance of his fumbling plea -that Hickok had, at a place unnamed and at a time unnamed, killed his -brother, McCall was acquitted and turned free, and Wild Bill was -sorrowfully buried by the admiring populace. - -As soon as he was freed, McCall hurried back to Cheyenne to escape the -reach of any of Hickok’s friends. Unfortunately the story of the killing -followed him there, and under the mistaken impression that he had -undergone a legitimate trial and was therefore no longer subject to -additional jeopardy, McCall took no pains to deny the murder. This was a -most foolish tactic on his part, for he was speedily rearrested and -shipped to Yankton, the capital of South Dakota Territory, where he was -held for a session of the proper court. Inasmuch as he had admitted -before witnesses not only that he had killed Wild Bill, but also that -his earlier plea had been fabricated from whole cloth, he had a very -slender defense indeed, and was quickly found guilty and banged. - -To the very end no clue could be found to any sort of sound reason for -his having fired the fatal shot. It was quite definitely proved that he -had never had any dealings with his victim and had never been in any way -offended by him, and that he no more than knew vaguely who he was. It -was apparently a completely aimless killing, the unhappy inspiration of -the moment. - -On the other hand, Justice seems forever determined to get to the bottom -of the matter, for _The Trial of Jack McCall_ has become an institution -of the Black Hills, played, like _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, all the -summers long in a popular tavern. Where audiences elsewhere hiss their -Legrees and other purely fictional villains, the proud residents of -Deadwood have their very own and very real scoundrel for the target of -their malisons—the miserable McCall. Tourists are cordially invited to -join in the fun and thereby to spread ever farther the legend of Wild -Bill Hickok. - -On June 21, 1951, the legend was further enhanced and improved upon by -the presentation to the city of Deadwood of a brand new statue of Hickok -carved out of a massive chunk of native granite by the ebullient -sculptor, Ziolkowski. An all-day celebration attended the unveiling of -this statue upon its pedestal at the foot of Mt. Moriah, and the zenith -of the day’s gaudy reverence was the reading of an “epic” poem to the -hushed populace of the town over a loud-speaker system from the top of -the mount. The statue is plain to be seen about a block from the Adams -Memorial Museum, and copies of the epic can no doubt be had by -soliciting the Deadwood Chamber of Commerce. - - -Of a somewhat different character from Wild Bill, but, it is good to -report, no less revered in the Hills, was Preacher Smith. - -Frontier towns have been notorious for their hallowing of persons, both -male and female, who were either expertly good or expertly bad. This -strange compounding of affections would suggest that the vice or -godliness in itself was unimportant, but that the rough and crude -citizens who populated our earlier settlements held a genuine admiration -and regard for anyone of any calling who demonstrated authority and -accomplishment. - -And thus it was with the Reverend Henry W. Smith. A man of exceptionally -little luck in life, he gave up his dwindling congregations in the -States and journeyed into the frontier in 1875, partly because of a zeal -in his heart to bring the Word into the lawless and godless gold camps, -but also, it must be conjectured, to find some form of weekday -employment which would enable him to care for his wife and two -daughters. The wolf had been howling at many doors during those years, -and parsonages which carried even a bare subsistence stipend were few -and far between. - -Smith went first to Custer, where he stayed but a short while, finding -little in the way of work and less in the way of souls to save, since -the rush to Deadwood was then in full force. Hiring onto a merchandise -train as a cook’s helper, he made his way to that newer city, arriving -early in May of 1876. In a town of such activity it was not difficult to -locate work, and shortly his hide began to fill out and his purse to -thicken. That purse, it was discovered after his death, was to be used -for the purpose of bringing his family out to join him. - -Working diligently and, of course, soberly at his menial tasks from -Monday through Saturday, and bravely setting up his pulpit on the main -street on Sundays, Preacher Smith soon won the respect and even the -genial admiration of the roisterous townspeople. At first his -congregations contained more wandering dogs than people, but week after -week, as he determinedly kept after his work, an increasingly large -crowd gathered of a Sunday morning to listen to his sermons. - -Thus the entire town was shocked when he was brutally killed by Indians -while walking to a near-by settlement to preach a sermon. Indians were -bad enough at best, but killing a harmless and unarmed preacher was an -act of violence which shook the consciences of the whole citizen body. -It was on those consciences that the guilt began to press—the guilt of -the knowledge that they had driven him to his death by their slowness to -accept him in their own community and that he had gone to his rendezvous -seeking a congregation, no matter how small, that would house him and -the Master he served. - -Belatedly gathering to his support, the citizens passed a sizable hat -for the benefit of the unfortunate man’s widow and daughters. In -addition to the gift of cash, the woman received an invitation to bring -her grieving family to the Hills, where care would be arranged for them, -including a teaching post for the eldest daughter. Unfortunately, -neither the widow nor the daughters were in good enough health to be -able to make the rigorous trip, and in consequence they could not avail -themselves of the hospitality and generosity which were so late in -coming. - -Although they had failed to bring the parson’s family to Deadwood, the -worthy citizens were undaunted in their efforts to memorialize this -modest itinerant who had stumbled unwittingly into glory. A great chunk -of sandstone was quarried and a local artist of more verve than ability -proceeded to hack out the parson’s likeness. The statue was eventually -propped over his grave atop Mount Moriah, the cemetery-museum where he -lies alongside Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. Unfortunately souvenir -hunters carried on their unworthy custom over the years, until finally -the battered monument, no longer even recognizable, collapsed. In the -Adams Memorial Hall of Deadwood, however, there can be seen a -certificate signed in Preacher Smith’s very writing, and thus his -handiwork lives along with his legend. - - -All stories of Deadwood in the Black Hills come, eventually, to the -great riddle of Martha Jane Cannary (sometimes spelled Canary), known as -Calamity Jane. - -This gusty female, who rolled around the West for nearly half a century, -has been the subject of more controversy and speculation than almost any -other early-day character. In her lifetime she circulated a brief -autobiography which successfully managed to hide the truth about -practically every aspect of her history. In addition, she manipulated -her drab story in such a way that a whole generation of legend-mongers -accepted her as the “true love” of Wild Bill Hickok, and thus by no -means to be thought of as the drunken harlot she most certainly was. - -By dint of careful searching, however, some few definite facts of her -early life and adventures have been isolated, and upon them at least the -framework of her true story has been constructed. She appears to have -been born in the neighborhood of 1850—add or subtract a year—in -Missouri. Some accounts have it that her father was a Baptist minister, -which is an unimportant sidelight, for young Martha Jane did not stay at -home long enough for any such influence to gnaw its way into her -personality.[2] - -How she managed to get from Missouri to Wyoming while still in her early -teens remains a mystery, but nonetheless her career as a camp follower -started when, at the tender age of fourteen, she arrived in the roaring -outpost of Rawlins. Some tales have it that she had gone west as the -consort of a young army lieutenant, and that her mother, remarried to a -pioneer, found her in that boisterous military town and took her to -Utah. In any event she came back into circulation two years later, for -in 1866 she was duly married to one George White in Cheyenne. Following -this felicitous turn of affairs she and her husband journeyed to Denver, -where he was able to support her in a fine, high style. Unfortunately, -she did not take to this pleasant existence, but shortly began to yearn -after the cavalry. Leaving her husband to his Denver duties, she -appeared all during 1867 and 1868 in various forts throughout Wyoming. -It was at this particular time in her career that she was supposed to -have earned the nickname of Calamity Jane. Undoubtedly the title was -bestowed upon her by barroom companions who had learned the sad truth -that Martha Jane’s appearance on the scene boded a long and arduous -night of drinking; but in her maudlin and confused autobiography she -tells of assisting in an Indian fight and for her splendid services -being gratefully given the name by a Captain Pat Egan. In a later -interview Egan denied this, claiming that the only time he had ever seen -the woman was while escorting her out of a barracks so that the men -could get some sleep. - -From Wyoming she went to Hays City, Kansas, still following the Seventh -Cavalry, her chosen military unit. Six years later she turned up again, -this time disguised as a man and marching with General Crook’s police -force, which was trying to keep settlers out of the Hills. Her -autobiography claims that she also accompanied Custer’s command on its -famous exploratory march, but this does not appear to be true. - -After the discovery of gold in Deadwood, she found the high life in that -town so completely to her liking that she made it her home base. In time -she fastened herself so securely among the legends of the metropolis -that she was thereafter known solely as Calamity Jane of Deadwood. - -Taking advantage of the high romance which surrounded Wild Bill’s name -after his death, Calamity made haste to pass the story around that he -had been her only true love; and although there was no evidence of any -sort that he even knew who she was, her last words, when she died in -1903, were a plea to be buried next to him. - -In the eighties she became restless again and forsook her beloved -Deadwood for two decades, roving as far south as El Paso, and on one -occasion being seen in California. Her activities at this time of her -life are mostly lost from sight, but it may be presumed that as whatever -charms she may earlier have had faded, her interest to and in the -soldiers waned. During this period she married again, this time wedding -a man named Burke, to whom she bore a daughter. She soon tired of Burke, -however, and drifted slowly north again, passing considerable time in -Colorado and then returning briefly to Deadwood in 1895. Even at that -late date the citizens of the gold town had not forgotten her, nor had -the esteem in which she had earlier been held dwindled; when it was -discovered that she lacked funds to care for her daughter, the -townspeople passed the ever present hat and arranged for the care of the -child. This act of generosity was purportedly to repay a great sacrifice -which Calamity Jane had made in the earlier days, braving the dangers of -the smallpox scourge of 1878 to nurse whoever was ill and without help. -This particular legend has had wide currency in the West, its closest -variant being the tale of Silver Heels, a dancing girl who visited the -mining camps of Colorado’s South Park in the sixties. Silver Heels is -popularly supposed to have ministered to the miners during a similar -plague, for which bravery a near-by mountain was named for her. - -After placing her child in a school, Calamity, who was destitute, betook -herself to the vaudeville circuit. Inasmuch as through the dime novels -she had already become a well-known national figure, she was able for a -while to draw large crowds. Had it not been for her unfortunate habit of -getting dead drunk before show time, she might well have amassed a -competence over the years. But her first contract was not renewed, and -after a brief whirl at the Buffalo Exposition she returned to the West, -spending the next several years in Montana. - -At last she came home to Deadwood, a sick and broken old roustabout. By -this time she was nothing more than a bar-fly, and she lived out her -last days panhandling food and liquor money from strangers. At last, on -August 2, 1903, she died of pneumonia. - -Deadwood turned out in force for her funeral. As she had requested, she -was buried near Wild Bill Hickok on Mount Moriah, overlooking the town. -That she had never really known Wild Bill was quite beside the point, -and anyway, there was none present who knew whether she had or not. The -shoddy story of her “love” for Hickok was nothing that interested the -old timers, but was saved for historians to untangle. That she was no -more than an alcoholic old harlot was of no consequence, either, to the -good citizens, for with her passing the last of the great names of the -frontier was coming home to rest. That the townspeople were proud of -her, and genuinely so, was not to be denied, although there was most -certainly nobody present at that melancholy service who could have told -why. The truth of the matter was that they were burying not a broken old -woman, but the last of the Black Hills legends. - - - - - CHAPTER SIX - The White River Badlands - - -Any visit to the Black Hills must also be the occasion of a tour, at -least for a few hours, of the famous South Dakota Badlands. This -fantastic National Monument is not a part of the Hills, either -geographically or historically, but because the two regions lie so close -together—a scant fifty miles apart—they are expediently linked as two -great natural wonders in the same region. - -The term “badlands” has a loose scientific acceptance, meaning any -region where a specific type of heavy erosion has taken place. Such -regions usually have subnormal rainfall and sparse vegetation. Those -rains that do occur, then, find little on the earth’s surface to prevent -almost complete runoff, which is so vigorous as to act as a powerful -cutting agent. The final ingredients of a badlands are rock formations -known as unconsolidated—lacking any general unity of structure which -might tend to withstand erosion. When all these conditions exist, the -devastation of the rushing flood waters is without pattern, a great gash -being carved in one spot while no damage is visible on a near-by -outcropping. The end result is an almost frightening collection of -gruesome stone monuments rising to the sky and marking the heights once -reached by a general plateau. - -Actually, much of the high western plain abutting on the Rocky Mountains -is basic badland formation, and small pockets of distinct erosion can be -seen all through eastern Colorado, western Nebraska, and eastern -Wyoming, in addition to the vast depression in the valleys of the White -and Cheyenne rivers in South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five -miles long and five to fifteen miles wide, is the largest and from the -geologist’s point of view the most important of all such regions in the -world. Desolate, empty, seared by ages of sun and wind, it is now a -great gash in the earth’s flesh which exposes to view rock and soil -strata that measure a great span of earth’s history. - -In addition to the splendid opportunity to see and study the various -layers of the earth’s surface going back as far as sixty million years, -the very composition of badlands formations makes any such region a -veritable museum of fossils and petrified animal relics. The South -Dakota Badlands have turned up absolute treasures of such -paleontological finds, enabling scientists to trace the evolution of -mammalian life all the way back to the appearance on earth of the first -carnivorous animals—the vastly distant ancestors of the dog. And the -Badlands are noted not only for the great span in geologic time of their -fossil beds, but also for the number of different types which have been -found in their ancient soil, more than 250 different prehistoric animals -having been discovered in various stages of fossilized preservation in -this general region. - -The tourist, though, need not be even an amateur student of geology or -paleontology to be thrilled and awed by a visit to this grotesque but -beautiful area. The mere colors of the various rock strata, ever -changing under the light patterns of sun and cloud, provide a -never-to-be-forgotten experience. One of the most articulate tributes to -the grandeur of the Badlands is that of Frank Lloyd Wright: - - Speaking of our trip to the South Dakota Badlands, I’ve been about the - world a lot and pretty much over our own country but I was totally - unprepared for the revelation called the Badlands. What I saw gave me - an indescribable sense of the mysterious otherwhere—a distant - architecture, ethereal, touched, only touched, with a sense of - Egyptian-Mayan drift and silhouette. As we came closer, a templed - realm definitely stood ambient in the air before my astonished - “scene”-loving but “scene”-jaded gaze. - - Yes, I say the aspects of the South Dakota Badlands have more - spiritual quality to impart to the mind of America than anything else - in it made by Man’s God. - -The word “badlands,” which now has a genuine scientific meaning, was -taken into our vocabulary from the folk name for this very region. In -the earliest days of North American exploration, far back before the -Revolution, French trappers had braved this empty wasteland on their -endless quest for new fur grounds, and had brought back tales of this -lost world of silence and strange shapes. They were the ones who gave it -the name Badlands, but they were only translating directly the Sioux -name, Mako Sika, which meant, precisely, lands bad for traveling. - -To the early explorers the badlands meant only that—high escarpments to -be overcome; twisting, winding, endless canyons from which there were no -outlets; crumbling rock underfoot on the three-hundred-foot crawls from -the canyon bottoms to the table-tops; and the hot, shimmering distances -of this forbidding terrain as far as the eye could see. - -It was, as a matter of fact, the existence of this area that helped keep -the Black Hills nothing more than an empty question mark on maps until -the rumors of gold began to circulate. The first American explorers, who -might have discovered the natural wonders of the Hills in the 1820’s, -found their paths diverted to the north and the south by this impassable -valley, and consequently missed the Hills. - -The first reliable record of the wonders of this lost world was dated -1847. That year, it will be remembered, was one of great moment in the -history of the western movement—the year that Brigham Young braved the -high prairies and pathless mountains with his great exodus, settling an -empire on the shores of Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails -were fairly well established by then, his was the first of the true -migrations, and the gold rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and -the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come. - -In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor Hiram A. Prout of St. -Louis came somehow into contact with a representative of the American -Fur Company, which ran substantial trapping operations all up the wide -Missouri and its tributaries. How this meeting came about is lost to -record, but we do know that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a -souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands of Dakota—a fragment -of the lower jaw of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be quarried -out of the region and used for scientific purposes. - -In that same year a second Badlands fossil turned up, this one a -well-preserved head of an ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the -great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true academic ardor both of these -gentlemen, Leidy and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly -print, describing in learned journals the nature of their trophies. -Enjoying the slender circulation of academic publication, the essays -which described these fossil wonders eventually found their way into the -offices of the government’s geological survey, which acted quickly to -dispatch an expedition to the overlooked region of their origin. - -That first exploring party, the David Owen Survey, went into the field -in 1849. A prominent scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached to -the group, and from his pen we have several sketches of this pioneer -adventure into the empty wastelands. If these drawings look more like -studies of Dante’s Inferno than like the breath-taking Badlands as they -really are, it must be remembered that such geological formations had -never before been visited by the members of that party, and, being -completely alien to the America of their knowledge, impressed them every -bit as a visit to the moon might have done. - -The Owens party was merely the vanguard of the great army of brave men -and women who have ever since made their dangerous ways into the -remotest distances of the mountain and desert West, seeking neither -riches of gold nor riches of land, but only more minute bits of the -knowledge of the world of our past. Archeologists, geologists, and -paleontologists from universities and learned societies the world over -have spent liberally of their time, energies, and personal safety to -scout out the secrets of mankind’s past in such remote corners of the -earth as the Badlands. Year after year additional expeditions, both -governmental and privately organized, made their way into this -particular area, seeking out the fossil remains which turned up in great -numbers. - -V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological Survey was one of the most -diligent of the early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands in -1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying on detailed and exhaustive studies -and eventually unraveling the story of the region’s major geologic -features. - -As Hayden’s reports became more and more widely circulated, various -universities found projects of specific interest in one or another phase -of the work of uncovering fossil beds; and from year to year Yale, -Princeton, Amherst, the universities of South Dakota and Nebraska, and -other institutions sent groups into the Badlands for summer work. -Gradually, as these several groups exchanged information and reports of -progress, it became possible for their scientists to trace back, through -the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals, the very processes of the -evolution of many entire families in the animal kingdom. Not only are -the fossil beds of the Badlands as richly stocked with remains as any -such bed in the world, but in a great many instances entire groups of -three, four, and five whole skeletons have been found, making it -possible for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly the animals as -they existed and to set up models of the terrain at various intervals -throughout its entire sixty-million-year history. - -Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as view-worthy section of the -Badlands is Sheep Mountain, located at the far west end of the Monument. -Down from the summit runs a great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon, -named for the fact that the South Dakota State School of Mines at Rapid -City long ago chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological -research. Under the guidance of famed Dr. Cleophas O’Harra, for many -years president of that institution, groups of Mines students went on -extended annual encampments on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among other -rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric midget horse, the -saber-toothed tiger, and camels. It was this last discovery that lent -considerable support to the concept, conjectural at the time of Dr. -O’Harra’s discoveries, that a land bridge had once connected North -America and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples and animals from the -old world into the new. School of Mines Canyon, while some distance off -the main highway leading from Pierre to the Black Hills, is by all means -worth the time required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen miles -from the town of Scenic. - -The Badlands are reached by Highway 14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming -from the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take route 40 directly -to the town of Scenic, forty-seven miles distant. From Scenic, in -addition to connecting with the side trip to Sheep Mountain, 40 -continues along the north wall of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass -and out the east end of the region, merging at Kadoka with Highway 16, -or, by means of a nine-mile connection, with 14. - -Should the weather be bad and State 40 not recommended by local -informers, the route is out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five -miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access road through the -Pinnacles, down into the Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar Pass, -and joining State 40. - -From the east, Highway 16 goes through Kadoka, from which town State 40 -should be taken, leading in through Cedar Pass, and out either through -Scenic and on to Rapid City, or at the Pinnacles, through Wall and back -on 14-16. Coming from Pierre on 14, the tourist must leave that highway -a few miles beyond the town of Philip and make the nine-mile detour on -16 to Kadoka, from there going on to Cedar Pass as described. - -Several railroads serve the Badlands and its general region, notably the -Chicago & Northwestern, the Burlington, and the Chicago, Milwaukee, and -St. Paul. This last road, the “Milwaukee,” offers the traveler the best -view of the region, winding up the White River Valley the entire -sixty-five miles between Kadoka and Scenic, and providing the passenger -with unparalleled if hasty views of some of the most rugged and isolated -portions of all the area. - - - - - Bibliography - - -Allsman, Paul T. _Reconnaissance of Gold Mining Districts in the Black - Hills, South Dakota._ U.S. Bureau of Mines, No. 427. Washington, - D. C.: U.S. Dept. of Interior, 1940. - -Baldwin, G. P., editor. _The Black Hills Illustrated._ Philadelphia: - Baldwin Syndicate, 1904. - -Carpenter, F. R. _The Mineral Resources of the Black Hills._ South - Dakota School of Mines Preliminary Report, No. 1. Rapid City: - South Dakota School of Mines, 1888. - -Casey, Robert J. _The Black Hills._ New York: Bobbs-Merrill Co., 1949. - -Dick, Everett. _Vanguards of the Frontier._ New York: D. - Appleton-Century Co., 1941. - -Eloe, Frank. “Rushmore Cave,” _Black Hills Engineer_, XXIV (December, - 1938), 274. - -Fenton, C. L. “South Dakota’s Badlands,” _Nature Magazine_, XXIV - (August, 1941), 370-74. - -Glasscock, C. B. _The Big Bonanza._ Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill Co., - 1931. - -Hans, Fred. _The Great Sioux Nation._ Chicago: Donahue, 1907. - -Hayden, F. V. and Meek, F. B. “Remarks on Geology of the Black Hills,” - _Academy of Natural Science Proceedings._ Philadelphia: Academy of - Natural Science, 1858, X, 41-59. - -Hough, Emerson. _The Passing of the Frontier._ New Haven: Yale - University Press, 1921. - -Kingsbury, G. W. _History of Dakota Territory._ Chicago: The S. J. - Clarke Co., 1915. - -Lake, Stuart. _Wyatt Earp._ Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1931. - -Mirsky, Jeannette. _The Westward Crossings._ New York: Alfred A. Knopf, - 1946. - -Newton, Henry. _Geology of the Black Hills._ Washington, D. C.: United - States Geographical and Geological Survey, 1880. - -O’Harra, C. C. “The Gold Mining Industry of the Black Hills,” _Black - Hills Engineer_, XIX (January, 1931), 3-9. - -——. _The White River Badlands._ Department of Geology, No. 13. Rapid - City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1920. - -Rothrach, E. P. _A Hydrologic Study of the White River Valley. South - Dakota Geological Survey Report._ Vermillion, South Dakota: - University of South Dakota, February, 1942. - -Todd, James Edward. _A Preliminary Report on the Geology of South - Dakota._ South Dakota Geological Survey, No. 1. Vermillion: - University of South Dakota, 1894. - -Tullis, E. L. “The Geology of the Black Hills,” _Black Hills Engineer_, - XXV (April, 1939), 26-38. - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]For an account of the history and natural wonders of Estes Park, - readers are referred to a previous book in this series, _Estes Park: - Resort in the Rockies_, by Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam. - -[2]A treasured manuscript journal kept by the author’s great-uncle, who - was for many years curator of the Colorado State Historical - Society’s museum in Denver, reports an interview with Calamity Jane - some time before her death which convinced him that the facts were - substantially as they are stated here. - - On the other hand, Mr. Will G. Robinson, the eminent State Historian - of South Dakota, reports: “On the authority of Dr. McGillicuddy, who - was a medico at Ft. Laramie, and whose original letter I have, I - would be entirely certain that she was born at Ft. Laramie, of a - couple by the name of Dalton. Dalton was a soldier, was discharged - and went out a short distance west to LaBonte. Here he was killed by - Indians, although his wife got back into the fort with one eye - gouged out, after which she shortly died. Her child got her - name—Calamity—by reason of this disaster. She was not much over 40 - when she died in 1903.” - - The discrepancy between these two accounts, both studiously - researched and documented by men whose professional careers have - been given over to solving puzzles of this nature with which western - history abounds, is typical of the disagreement among - well-authenticated reports of the birth and early life of this - female enigma. - - In any event, it is a matter which is still subject to a maximum - amount of conjecture, and for a much more complete account of the - variant clues readers are enthusiastically referred to Nolie Mumey’s - _Calamity Jane_ (Denver: Privately printed, 1949). - - - - - Index - - - A - Abilene (Kan.), 84, 98 - Adams Memorial Museum, 103, 107 - Alaska, 73 - Algonkian Period, 19 - American Fur Company, 120 - Amherst College, 122 - Anchor City (S.D.), 63 - Archean Period, 17-18 - Archean sea, 20 - Atlantic (Iowa), 88 - - - B - Badlands, White River, 4, 6, 42, 115-17 - Bass, Sam, 79-81, 82-83, 85, 90 - Battle Mountain, 7 - Beadle & Adams, 90, 95 - Beaver Creek, 86 - Belle Fourche (S.D.), 6 - Belle Fourche River, 56 - Belle Fourche Round-up, 46 - Big Horn Basin, 66 - Big Horn River, 53 - Bismarck (S.D.), 53 - Black Bart, 78 - Black Hills & Badlands Assn., 44 - Black Hills Range Days, 46 - Black Hills Teachers College, 12 - Black Moon (Indian Chief), 66 - Blackfeet tribe, 49 - Blodgett, Sam, 71 - Borglum, Gutzon, 37-39 - Bozeman Trail, 51-53 - Brule tribe, 49, 52 - “Broken Hand.” _See_ Fitzpatrick, Thomas - Buffalo Bill, 99 - Burlington Railroad, 8 - - - C - Calamity Jane, 77, 90-91, 94, 107-11 - _Calamity Jane_, 109 - California, 47, 50, 62, 75 - Cambrian Period, 19-20 - Cambrian sea, 20 - Canyon Springs, 86, 89 - Carlsbad Caverns, 28, 43 - Carson, Kit, 55 - Cathedral Park, 33 - Central City (S.D.), 63 - Cheyenne (Wyo.), 4, 59-61, 69, 80-81, 86, 89, 99 - Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage, 69, 80 - Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage, 4, 9 - Cheyenne Indians, 7 - Cheyenne River, 116 - Chicago (Ill.), 6, 34, 49 - Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, 7 - Clarke, Dick, 93 - Colorado, 32-33, 47, 58 - Coolidge, President Calvin, 31, 38, 93 - Crazy Horse (Indian Chief), 40, 52, 54, 61, 65-67 - Cripple Creek (Colo.), 72 - Crocker, Charles, 78 - Crook, General, 59, 64-66, 110 - Crystal Cave, 23 - Custer (S.D.), 6, 9, 10-11, 30-31, 40, 42-43, 46, 59, 61, 63, - 70-71, 105 - Custer, General George Armstrong, 1, 10, 54-57, 64-67, 78, 80 - Custer State Park, 19, 30 - Custer’s Last Stand, 68 - - - D - Darrall, Duke, 90 - Days of ’76, 46, 92 - Dead Man’s Hand (poker), 95 - Deadtree Gulch, 71 - Deadwood (S.D.), 4, 11, 20, 46, 69, 81-84, 86, 91, 99, 101, 105-6, - 110-11 - Deadwood City (S.D.), 76 - Deadwood Dick, 77, 90-94 - Deadwood Dick, Jr., 92 - Deadwood Gulch, 10, 46, 71, 73 - Denver (Colo.), 3-4, 49, 60, 96, 109 - Devonian Period, 22 - Dodge, General Grenville, 51 - Dodge City (Kan.), 84 - - - E - Earp, Wyatt, 84-86 - Egan, Capt. Pat, 110 - Estes Park, 3 - Evans, Fred T., 7 - Evans Hotel, 7 - Evans, John, 120 - - - F - Fair, James, 78 - Fellows, Dick, 78 - Fitzpatrick, Thomas, 50 - Fort Ellis, 64 - Fort Fetterman, 64 - Fort Laramie, 50-52, 57 - Fort Lincoln, 53, 57 - Fort Pierre, 7, 13, 80 - Fort Sully, 51 - French Creek, 57, 69, 70 - - - G - Gall (Indian Chief), 66 - Game Lodge, 31-33 - Gayville (S.D.), 63 - Gibbon, General John, 64-65 - Gold, discovered in the Black Hills, 3 - Gold Discovery Days, 11, 46 - Golden Gate (S.D.), 63 - Golden Star mine, 73 - Golden Terra mine, 73, 75 - Gordon party, 60 - Great Plains, 49 - - - H - Haggin, James Ben Ali, 74 - Harney Peak, 1, 19, 32, 35-36, 40 - Harney-Sanborne Treaty, 53 - Hayden, V. F., 121 - Hays City (Kan.), 98, 110 - Hearst, Senator George, 74-75 - Hearst, William Randolph, 74 - Hickok, Wild Bill, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Hinckley’s Overland Express, 96 - Homestake Mine, 69, 72-76, 80, 87, 89 - Homestake Mining Co., 75 - Hot Springs (S.D.), 6, 8-9, 11, 29, 34 - - - I - Ice Cave, 43-44 - Inkpaduta (Indian Chief), 66 - _Inter-Ocean_, 58 - - - J - Jefferson, President Thomas, 37, 39 - Jenney Stockade, 86 - Jennings, Dr., 7 - Jewel Cave, 11, 23, 42, 44 - Jones, Seth, 90 - Julesburg (Colo.), 97 - - - K - Kansas, 96 - Kansas City (Mo.), 49 - Kind, Ezra, 48 - - - L - Lake, Agnes, 99 - Laramie (Wyo.), 61 - Last Chance Gulch, 73 - Lead (S.D.), 75 - _Legend of Sam Bass_, 79 - Leidy, Dr. Joseph, 120 - Lincoln, President Abraham, 37, 39 - Lincoln Highway, 4 - Little Big Horn River, 10, 68 - Luenen (Germany), 12 - - - Mc - McCall, Jack, 95, 100-102 - McCanles gang, 96, 98 - McKay, William T., 54, 56 - - - M - Manuel, Fred, 73-75 - Manuel, Moses, 73-75 - Meier, Joseph, 12 - Miles City (Mont.), 6 - Minneapolis (Minn.), 6 - Minnekahta Canyon, 7 - Minnesota, 50 - Minniconjou tribe, 49 - Mississippian Period, 22 - Missouri, 97, 108 - Missouri River, 2, 6, 49, 53, 88 - Missouri Valley, 48, 50 - Mogollon (mountains), 63 - Montana, 10, 47, 51, 64 - Mount Coolidge, 41 - Mount Evans, 33 - Mount Moriah Cemetery, 103, 107, 113 - Mount Rushmore, 37, 39, 40-41 - Mount Washington, 32 - Mumey, Nolie, 109 - Murietta, Joaquin, 78 - - - N - National Park Service, 28, 30, 43, 45 - Nebraska, 42, 54, 88 - Needles, The, 33 - Needles Highway, 33-35 - Nevada, 47 - Newcastle (Wyo.), 43 - Niobrara River, 54 - North America, 17, 20, 24, 75 - North Platte River, 2, 64 - Number Ten, 99-100 - - - O - Oglala tribe, 49, 52, 65 - O’Harra, Dr. Cleophas, 123 - Omaha (Neb.), 4, 49 - Ordovician Period, 22 - Oregon Trail, 51 - Oregon-California Trail, 2 - Owen Survey, 120 - - - P - Paha Sapa (Indian name for Black Hills), 2, 4, 7, 9, 10, 48 - Paleozoic Era, 19 - Passion Play, 72 - Pearson, John, 71-72 - Pierre (S.D.), 2, 6, 51 - Pikes Peak, 58, 62 - Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, 40 - Platte River, 50 - Platte River-Oregon Trail, 49 - Platte Valley, 60, 96 - Portland-Independence Mine, 72 - Powder River Valley, 65 - Preacher Smith, 90-91, 104-5 - Princeton University, 122 - Prout, Prof. Hiram, 119-20 - - - R - Rapid City (S.D.), 4, 6-7, 11, 13-14, 31, 46, 49 - Rawlins (Wyo.), 109 - Red Cloud (Indian Chief), 52-53 - Reno, Major, 67-68 - Reynolds, Charley, 57 - Rhodes, Eugene Manlove, 18 - Rio Grande Valley, 19 - Robinson, Will, 108 - Rocky Mountains, 1, 3, 15, 34, 37, 50, 62, 96, 116 - Roosevelt, President Theodore, 37, 39 - Rosebud Creek, 65 - Ross, H. N., 55 - - - S - St. Joseph (Mo.), 49, 96 - St. Louis (Mo.), 49, 57 - St. Paul (Minn.), 49 - San Arc tribe, 49 - San Francisco (Calif.), 74-75 - Santa Fe Trail, 49 - Santee Sioux, 50 - School of Mines Canyon, 123 - Seventh Cavalry, 110 - Sheridan, General Phil, 56-57 - Sidney (Neb.), 13, 61, 69, 75, 80 - Sidney Short Route, 80 - Silurian Period, 22 - Silver Heels, 112 - Sioux Indians, 7, 61, 63 - Sioux War, 69 - Sitting Bull (Indian Chief), 54, 64, 66-67 - Smith, Rev. Henry. _See_ Preacher Smith - South Dakota, 2, 4, 13, 30, 36, 44, 93 - Spearfish (S.D.), 6, 11, 13, 48 - Spencer, Joseph, 34 - Springfield (Mo.), 97 - Standing Bear (Indian Chief), 40 - Stanford, Leland, 78 - Sunday Creek, 35 - Sylvan Lake, 33-36, 39 - - - T - _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, 103 - Terry, General, 63-64 - Teton Sioux, 2, 49 - Texas Rangers, 79 - Thoen, Louis, 48 - Thunderhead Mountain, 40-41 - _Trial of Jack McCall, The_, 103 - Triassic Period, 24 - Two Kettle tribe, 49 - - - U - Union Pacific Railroad, 13, 49, 58, 80 - University of Nebraska, 122 - University of South Dakota, 122 - Unkpapa tribe, 49 - Ussher, Archbishop James, 17 - Utah, 109 - - - V - Vale of Minnekahta, 7 - Virginia City (Nev.), 73 - - - W - War Department, 59 - Washington (D.C.), 58, 61, 93 - Washington, President George, 37, 39, 91 - Wells Fargo, 74, 83-84 - Wheeler, Edward L., 91 - White, George, 109 - White River, 116 - White River Badlands. _See_ Badlands - Wild Bill Hickok, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Wind Cave, 23, 27-29, 42-44 - Wind Cave Park, 41 - Witwatersrand, 72 - Wood Lake, battle of, 51 - Wright, Frank Lloyd, 117 - Wyoming, 4, 9, 32, 42, 86 - - - Y - Yale University, 122 - Yankton (S.D.), 102 - - - Z - Ziolkowski, Korczak, 40-41, 103 - - - $2.50 - - - THE BLACK HILLS - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - -From taboo Indian fastness to roaring gold camp to modern resort and -recreation area—so runs the history of the Black Hills, Paha Sapa of the -Indians, which are really not hills at all but mountains, the highest -east of the Rockies. Back through geologic ages the story extends, to -the thunderous time when Nature fashioned the intricate formations of -the Hills and their companion geologic marvel, the Badlands. - -Here, in racy and fluent prose, Albert N. Williams has brought the full -sweep of this story to life, from its beginning in the mighty geologic -upheaval that, before the Alps had been formed, thrust the giant spire -of Harney Peak up through the ancient shale, to the present quiet rest -of man-made Sylvan Lake, where it lies peacefully reflecting its great -granite shields for the delight of the traveler. - -On the way he tells of the discovery of gold in this “mysterious and -brooding dark mountain-land” just when gold-hungry men had decided that -the bonanza days were gone forever; of the Indian fighting that reached -its tragic climax at the Little Big Horn; of the development of the -Homestake, one of earth’s greatest mines; of the hazardous stage-coach -journeys on which “shotgun messengers” guarded chests of bullion; and, -most fascinating of all, of the amazing personalities—Sam Bass and Wyatt -Earp and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane and Preacher Smith—who -inhabited the Hills in their gaudiest days or, like Deadwood Dick, lived -a no less vivid life in the pages of dime novels. - -If this were all, _The Black Hills_ would be a book for any lover of our -country’s natural glories and thrilling history to pick up and be unable -to lay down again until he had finished it. But other chapters directed -particularly to the tourist make it also a book for the traveler to keep -always with him and to consult at every point in his journey through the -Black Hills. All he needs to know is here—the highways to take into the -Hills, the towns with their historic plays and celebrations, the peaks -and lakes and caves he will find, the sports he may enjoy, the places -where he may stay. A trip so guided cannot fail to be filled with the -excitement the author himself has found in the Black Hills, of which he -says that in his opinion “no other resort area in the United States -possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions.” - - -Albert N. Williams was for many years a writer for NBC in New York, and -for two years Editor-in-Chief of the English features section of the -Voice of America. He is the author of _Listening_, _Rocky Mountain -Country_, _The Water and the Power_, and numerous short fiction pieces -in national magazines. He is at present Director of Development of the -University of Denver. - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - Southern Methodist University Press - Dallas 5, Texas - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - -***** This file should be named 55088-0.txt or 55088-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/8/55088/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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