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authornfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>2025-02-07 11:35:08 -0800
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-
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by
-Albert Nathaniel Williams
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort
- American Resort Series No. 4
-
-Author: Albert Nathaniel Williams
-
-Release Date: July 11, 2017 [EBook #55088]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort" width="484" height="800" />
-</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img id="insidecov" src="images/icover.jpg" alt="The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort" width="492" height="799" />
-</div>
-<div class="box">
-<h1><span class="large">The Black Hills</span>
-<br /><span class="smallest">MID-CONTINENT RESORT</span></h1>
-<p class="center"><span class="smaller">BY</span> <span class="large"><b>Albert N. Williams</b></span></p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="Southern Methodist University Press Logo" width="200" height="224" />
-</div>
-<p class="center smaller">AMERICAN RESORT SERIES NO. 4</p>
-<p class="center">Southern Methodist University Press
-<br /><span class="small">1952</span></p>
-</div>
-<p class="center smaller">COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY
-<br />SOUTHERN METHODIST UNIVERSITY PRESS
-<br />PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
-<br />BY AMERICAN BOOK&mdash;STRATFORD PRESS, INC., NEW YORK</p>
-<p class="tbcenter">AMERICAN RESORT SERIES</p>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>No. 1: <span class="sc">Gatlinburg: Gateway to the Great Smokies</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue</i></dt>
-<dt>No. 2: <span class="sc">Taxco: Mexico&rsquo;s Silver City</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue</i></dt>
-<dt>No. 3: <span class="sc">Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam</i></dt>
-<dt>No. 4: <span class="sc">The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort</span>, <i>by Albert N. Williams</i></dt></dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_v">v</div>
-<p class="tbcenter">For Chris</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_vii">vii</div>
-<h2><span class="small">Acknowledgments</span></h2>
-<p>The research on early Black Hills and Badlands history
-was ably assisted by Miss June Carothers,
-whose services were provided the author through a
-generous grant-in-aid by the University of Denver&rsquo;s
-Bureau of Humanities and Social Development.</p>
-<p>Miss Ina T. Aulls, Mrs. Alys Freeze, Mrs. Opal
-Harber, Miss Margery Bedinger, Mrs. Margaret
-Simonds, Mrs. Elizabeth Kingston, and Mrs. Clara
-Cutright, all of the Denver Public Library, are particularly
-to be thanked for placing the resources of
-that institution at my disposal.</p>
-<p>For assistance in preparing the manuscript, I wish
-to thank Miss Helen Kiamos, Miss Edith Goldfarb,
-and Miss Lillian Helling.</p>
-<p>I am indebted to Bell Photo of Rapid City for the
-photograph of the Needles highway; to Ned Perrigoue
-of Rapid City for that of Sylvan Lake; to the
-Denver Public Library Western Collection for those
-of Calamity Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Deadwood
-Gulch in 1881; and to Mr. A. H. Pankow of the
-South Dakota State Highway Commission for that
-of a Black Hills stream.</p>
-<p>And finally, as always, thanks go to my wife, Ann,
-for her patient editorial help.</p>
-<p><span class="lr"><span class="sc">Albert N. Williams</span></span></p>
-<div class="verse">
-<p class="t0"><i>University of Denver</i></p>
-<p class="t0"><i>Denver, Colorado</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_viii">viii</div>
-<h3>Books by Albert N. Williams</h3>
-<p class="center small">LISTENING
-<br />ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUNTRY
-<br />THE WATER AND THE POWER
-<br />THE BOOK BY MY SIDE</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_ix">ix</div>
-<h2 class="center">Contents</h2>
-<dl class="toc">
-<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="cn">I </span>The Black Hills: The Forbidden Land</a> 1</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="cn">II </span>The Formation of the Black Hills</a> 15</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="cn">III </span>The Hills Today</a> 27</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="cn">IV </span>History I: Indians and Gold</a> 47</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="cn">V </span>History II: Deadwood Days</a> 78</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="cn">VI </span>The White River Badlands</a> 115</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="cn">&nbsp; </span>Bibliography</a> 126</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="cn">&nbsp; </span>Index</a> 127</dt>
-</dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_xi">xi</div>
-<h1 title="">Illustrations</h1>
-<dl class="toc">
-<dt><a href="#fig1">Along the Needles Highway</a> <i>facing page</i> 34</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig2">Harney Peak&mdash;older by ages than the Rockies</a> 35</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig3">The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial</a> 50</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig4">Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an elevation of 6,250 feet</a> 51</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig5">Calamity Jane, during her carnival days</a> 82</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig6">Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait</a> 82</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig7">Cheyenne&mdash;Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun messengers</a> 82</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig8">Deadwood Gulch in 1881</a> 83</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig9">Modern Deadwood&mdash;seventy years later</a> 83</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig10">One of the Black Hills&rsquo; many streams</a> 98</dt>
-<dt><a href="#fig11">The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared</a> 99</dt>
-</dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_xiii">xiii</div>
-<h2><span class="small">Introduction</span></h2>
-<p>I have had an opportunity to enjoy one of the
-most readable accounts of the Black Hills I
-have ever come across. It is written to acquaint
-traveling America with an area which was long
-off the beaten path of tourists, and which has
-only during the past quarter century been recognized
-as a place where people who wish to
-&ldquo;Know America First&rdquo; may profitably spend
-some time.</p>
-<p>Mr. Williams has outlined the historical reason
-why this small wonderland was so long outside
-the consciousness of America, and he has
-devoted a chapter to telling about the methods
-of nature in producing the intricacies of this
-formation, older by far than the Alps or the
-Himalayas. He has made the subject live, and
-he includes enough expert terminology to
-satisfy the reader that he knows whereof he
-speaks.</p>
-<p>In his chapter on &ldquo;The Hills Today&rdquo; Mr.
-Williams outlines what the tourist should see,
-and how to see it. For that chapter alone his
-book would be well worth the attention of
-<span class="pb" id="Page_xiv">xiv</span>
-every prospective sight-seer. He has two chapters
-pertaining to the history of the region, the
-first speculating on how the whole economic
-growth of the West might well have been
-altered had a confirmed story of &ldquo;gold in the
-Black Hills&rdquo; been released fifty years before
-it was spread-eagled on the pages of the <i>Chicago
-Inter-Ocean</i>. It is an interesting speculation,
-and he gives it a pleasing reality.</p>
-<p>Another chapter deals with the lives of some
-of the characters exploited and given semi-permanent
-fame by the old dime novels. Deadwood
-without these characters would be just
-another picturesque town set down in a mountain
-valley; with them it becomes one of America&rsquo;s
-better-known hot spots, vying with the
-Klondike and Leadville.</p>
-<p>Mr. Williams&rsquo; last chapter on the Badlands,
-a neighboring phenomenon, a place of amazing
-mystery and strange disorder, serves to depict
-what might be termed the undepictable in
-terms exactly calculated to excite the reader&rsquo;s
-absorbed interest.</p>
-<p><span class="lr"><span class="sc">Will G. Robinson</span></span></p>
-<div class="verse">
-<p class="t0"><i>South Dakota State Historical Society</i></p>
-<p class="t0"><i>Pierre, South Dakota</i></p>
-<p class="t0"><i>December 17, 1951</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
-<h2 id="c1"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER ONE</span></span>
-<br />The Black Hills:
-<br />The Forbidden Land</h2>
-<p>The thing to remember is that the Black
-Hills are not hills at all. They are mountains,
-the highest mountains east of the Rockies,
-with Harney Peak rising to a height of
-7,242 feet above sea level. Inasmuch as the
-prairie floor averages, at the four entrances to
-the Hills, only 3,200 feet in elevation, these
-are mountains of considerable stature.</p>
-<p>The title &ldquo;hills&rdquo; was by no means given the
-area by early white settlers. Indeed, if that
-majestic domain had not already been named
-the Black Hills by the Indians, George Armstrong
-Custer, who in 1874 made the first full-scale
-exploration of the region, would no doubt
-have dignified it with a more appropriate and
-<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span>
-properly descriptive name&mdash;the Sioux or the
-Dakota Mountains, in all probability.</p>
-<p>From time beyond remembrance, however,
-the region had been known to the Indians as
-Paha Sapa, exactly to be translated as &ldquo;Black
-Hills,&rdquo; and very properly that name was accepted
-by government geographers. The use
-of the word &ldquo;black&rdquo; possibly fulfilled several
-functions, for not only do these massive peaks
-appear decidedly black when seen against the
-horizon across distances as great as a hundred
-miles, but they were, to the superstitious braves
-of the Teton Sioux, the abode of the Thunders
-and studiously to be avoided.</p>
-<p>This taboo fastness was one of the last regions
-in the great American West to be explored
-and settled. For one reason, it enjoyed
-an isolation from the centers of development
-that served to discourage any but the most
-hardy of explorers. Lying in the extreme western
-end of present-day South Dakota, the
-Black Hills were two hundred miles west of
-the settlements around Pierre, on the Missouri
-River, and two hundred miles north of the
-towns along the North Platte, the valley of
-the Oregon-California Trail. The most important
-reason, though, for its belated opening was
-that gold was not discovered in the Black Hills
-<span class="pb" id="Page_3">3</span>
-until 1874, and it was the discovery of gold in
-various sections which more than any other
-single set of circumstances dictated the pattern
-of the development of the trans-Mississippi
-West.</p>
-<p>Even today this fascinating region remains
-nearly the most remote of all America&rsquo;s resort
-and recreation areas. The Grand Canyon lies
-but an hour&rsquo;s drive from a major east-west
-transcontinental highway. Estes Park,<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> in the
-Rockies, is only seventy miles from the city of
-Denver. Glacier Park is easily served by the
-Great Northern Railroad on its overland run,
-and Yellowstone enjoys direct service by three
-railroads. But the Black Hills lie beyond the
-privileges of railroad stopovers, and in order to
-visit them the tourist has no choice but to plan
-a vacation trip for the sake of the Hills themselves
-and not as a side venture from any of
-the traditional tours of the West. The Hills
-are worth the effort.</p>
-<p>The Black Hills occupy a rectangular realm
-which is roughly one hundred miles long, north
-to south, and fifty miles across its east-west
-<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span>
-axis. The White River Badlands, which are
-customarily visited on any Black Hills trip,
-form a depression in the high prairies some
-forty miles long and fifteen miles across the
-widest part. This stark and empty waste is to
-be found some seventy-five miles east of the
-Black Hills, or, more precisely, east of Rapid
-on U.S. Highway 14-16.</p>
-<p>There are five major access routes to the
-land of Paha Sapa. From the west, which is to
-say from Yellowstone Park, five hundred miles
-distant, the Hills can be reached by U.S. Highways
-14 and 16. These routes come in together
-across the high plains of northern Wyoming,
-and separate a few hours&rsquo; drive from the South
-Dakota border, 14 veering to the north and 16
-continuing through the central section of the
-Hills.</p>
-<p>From the south, U.S. 85 comes up from
-Denver, four hundred miles distant, crossing
-the Lincoln Highway at Cheyenne, and continuing
-along the route of the old Cheyenne-Deadwood
-stage.</p>
-<p>From Omaha and points in the southeast,
-the Hills are best reached over U.S. 20 across
-the top side of Nebraska. Although this route
-is not a major east-west route for interstate
-tourists, it serves a busy agricultural section
-and is generally in fine repair.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="The Black Hills; The Badlands" width="500" height="776" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
-<p>From the east U.S. 14 and 16, again, bring
-the tourist through Pierre, on the Missouri
-River, past the Badlands, and into the Hills
-through Rapid City. From Minneapolis the
-distance is just over six hundred miles, while
-from Chicago it is very nearly a thousand.</p>
-<p>For those entering the region from the
-north, U.S. 12 from Miles City, Montana, is
-in all probability the best route.</p>
-<p>The gateways to the Black Hills are the
-towns of Hot Springs in the south, Rapid City
-on the eastern edge, Spearfish or Belle Fourche
-at the north, and Custer in the west. All
-these towns offer entirely acceptable accommodations
-for a touring family; in fact, no one
-need drive more than twenty or thirty miles
-from any point in the area to find suitable lodgings
-at a desired rate.</p>
-<p>Hot Springs, on U.S. 18-85A and State 87,
-is situated at an altitude of 3,443 feet and has
-a population of approximately five thousand.
-It is the one sector of the Black Hills that does
-not owe its original development to the gold
-rush of the seventies, but was sought out from
-the earliest days for its natural thermal
-springs.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div>
-<p>The town is located in a large bowl of the
-southern hills known as the Vale of Minnekahta,
-from the Sioux name for &ldquo;warm waters.&rdquo;
-Situated as it is on the rim of the Hills
-region, it was not included in the general taboo
-that cloaked the rest of Paha Sapa to the
-north; and for nearly a century before its discovery
-by the white man in 1875, it was a favored
-health resort of the Indians. As a matter
-of fact, Battle Mountain, which overlooks the
-town, takes its name from a legendary war between
-the Sioux and the Cheyenne for the exclusive
-privileges of the hot baths.</p>
-<p>Not long after the discovery of the springs
-a syndicate of investors who had come into the
-Hills from Iowa bought the ranch claims that
-had been taken out in the Minnekahta Canyon,
-and sought to develop the region as a spa. This
-was in the late eighties when salubrious waters
-were in high fashion as a cure for arthritis and
-other joint and muscular disorders of various
-degrees of complexity. Colonel Fred T. Evans,
-who had made a fortune operating a bull-team
-freight line from Fort Pierre to Rapid City,
-built an elaborate resort, the Evans Hotel,
-which even today is imposing in its last-century
-splendor; and with the arrival in 1890 and
-1891 of two railroads, the Chicago and Northwestern
-<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span>
-and the Burlington, wealthy cure-seekers
-from all over the United States made
-it their habit to spend the summer months in
-this pleasant town.</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" />
-<p class="pcap">Highways leading into the Black Hills.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Healing waters have long since gone out of
-vogue as a form of recreation, and although
-several clinics still treat a modest number of
-visitors for one indisposition or another, the
-town of Hot Springs has ceased to be a tourist
-center of any consequence. Also, the fact that
-the Springs are located a considerable distance
-south of U.S. 16, the main east-west route
-through the Hills, has contributed to the increasing
-isolation which this town enjoys,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span>
-drowsily seeing to the wants of the occasional
-visitor who strays into Paha Sapa from the
-south along U.S. 85. But do not mistake it, it
-is a pleasant town to stop in, with excellent
-motor courts and a good selection of restaurants.</p>
-<p>The town of Custer, a scant fifteen miles
-from the Wyoming border on U.S. 16, is little
-more today than a tourist stopover. It is almost
-two thousand feet higher than Hot Springs,
-at an altitude of 5,301 feet, and contains, according
-to the latest estimates, nearly two
-thousand residents.</p>
-<p>As the tourist enters the town he will immediately
-be amazed by the wide main street; but
-if he ponders for a moment the problems of
-turning a freight wagon behind sixteen oxen,
-the reason will become clear. Custer, the western
-gateway to the Hills, was, until the coming
-of the railroads, a major way station on the
-busy Cheyenne-Deadwood stage and freight
-route; and for fifteen years the great bull wagons
-teamed into this busy center where, in most
-cases, the goods were unloaded and trans-shipped
-by lighter wagons into the various
-mining centers throughout the northern and
-central Hills.</p>
-<p>Custer, the oldest of the white man&rsquo;s settlements
-<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span>
-in Paha Sapa, was founded in 1875 by
-gold-seekers who flocked into the territory following
-the reports of yellow metal sent back
-by George Custer after his exploratory campaign
-of 1874. In the first spring and summer
-of its existence more than five thousand miners
-swarmed into the region to pan gold. This invasion
-was a violation of the government&rsquo;s
-treaty with the Sioux, and the military forced
-the argonauts to leave.</p>
-<p>By 1876 the Indian problem had come to a
-head with the defeat of General Custer on the
-Little Big Horn in eastern Montana; and as
-one phase of retaliation the federal government
-redrafted the Sioux treaty, allowing
-American citizens to enter the Black Hills,
-until this time reserved for the Indians. Although
-for some time the tribal leaders could
-not be persuaded to sign the revised agreement,
-the restrictions on settlers were removed, and
-back into the Hills rushed the prospectors&mdash;this
-time to the new strikes in Deadwood
-Gulch, in the north.</p>
-<p>By the middle of 1877 Custer, where gold
-had originally been found, had a population of
-a mere three hundred souls, all of them concerned
-primarily with the operation of the
-stage stations and hostels. True, a few grizzled
-<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span>
-placer miners still worked the streams near by,
-and do to this day; but hard rock mining in
-Deadwood was the new order of affairs.</p>
-<p>The visitor to this section of the Hills today
-will find it pleasant to stay the night in any
-one of a wide choice of tourist courts and other
-reasonable billets, and he may see much of historical
-interest within a few miles&rsquo; drive of
-Custer. A settler&rsquo;s stockade, reconstructed to
-the original model of 1874, is a remarkable site
-to visit, and the Jewel Cave is best reached
-from this point. For sheer color and pageantry
-the annual celebration of Gold Discovery
-Days, which is held at Custer late in July&mdash;near
-the date of the discovery of gold, July 27&mdash;is
-an affair not to be missed during a Black
-Hills vacation at that time of year.</p>
-<p>The town of Spearfish is the point of entrance
-to the region on U.S. 14, or, coming in
-from the north, on U.S. 85. This tidy metropolis,
-called the Queen City of the Black Hills,
-never knew the heady history that marked the
-early days of Custer, of Deadwood, of Rapid
-City, or even of fashionable Hot Springs. Lying
-outside the magnificent natural bowl of
-mineral deposits, Spearfish was founded and
-exists today for the simple purpose of supplying
-the inner Hills with food and produce. It
-<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span>
-has a population of between three and four
-thousand people, most of whose energies are
-devoted to agriculture and livestock.</p>
-<p>Spearfish has, however, carved for itself a
-fame and renown even larger, in many quarters,
-than that enjoyed by the gold rush towns
-of gustier memories. It is the home of the Black
-Hills Passion Play.</p>
-<p>This beautiful and stirring performance,
-which is given in a large amphitheater on Tuesday,
-Thursday, and Sunday evenings throughout
-the summers, is a resurrection in an
-American atmosphere of the centuries-old Passion
-of Luenen, in Germany. The man who
-plays the Christus, an inherited responsibility
-through many generations, is Josef Meier, who
-fled from Europe in 1932. For six years, with
-a reassembled cast, he toured the United
-States, performing a much trimmed-down version
-of the historic morality on college campuses,
-in civic auditoriums, and at summer
-encampments. It was at such a performance
-at the Black Hills Teachers College that the
-citizens of Spearfish were inspired to offer the
-touring company a permanent home. Meier
-and his group eagerly accepted the offer, and
-the town constructed an outdoor theater seating
-eight thousand people. Now, each winter
-<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span>
-the Passion Play continues its tour of the
-United States, but all during July and August
-it remains in residence, acting its moving and
-majestic pageant to constantly packed houses.</p>
-<p>The eastern gateway to the Hills is Rapid
-City, a metropolis of thirty thousand people
-which lies on the level prairie just to the east
-of the final ring of foothills. Founded, like
-Spearfish, not as a mining center but to serve
-the near-by gold regions, Rapid City has developed
-a maze of industrial and commercial
-enterprises. Shipping, of course, has been a
-basic form of commerce from the earliest days,
-with the two most heavily traveled trails into
-the Black Hills, that from Fort Pierre and
-that from Sidney, Nebraska, on the Union
-Pacific, entering the gold area at Rapid City.
-Lumbering, manufacture, banking, and livestock
-quickly became prominent as the gold
-fever subsided and the more permanent settlers
-began coming into the region to take up the
-rich cattle and farming lands in western South
-Dakota. A final guarantee that Rapid City
-will continue to flourish may be seen in the selection
-by the Air Force of the high, level
-prairie land just ten miles to the east of the
-city as the nation&rsquo;s major mid-continent
-bomber base.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
-<p>Rapid City is served by U.S. Highway 14-16,
-and South Dakota state highways 40
-and 79. Two railroads and a major airline assist
-in handling the heavy summer tourist
-travel, and from Rapid City practically every
-point of interest in the Black Hills can be
-reached by car within three hours.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div>
-<h2 id="c2"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER TWO</span></span>
-<br />The Formation of the Black Hills</h2>
-<p>One of the most rewarding features of a
-visit to the Black Hills is the opportunity
-for the average individual, who has no
-technical training, to see with his own eyes a
-museum of the earth&rsquo;s ages and a living sample
-of practically every one of the many aeons of
-the planet&rsquo;s history.</p>
-<p>The Hills, which is to say the rock substances
-of the region, are older by hundreds of millions
-of years than the stone out-juttings of the
-Rocky Mountains. Layer after layer of slates
-and schists from the very foundations of this
-globe lie visibly exposed as the end result of
-a doming of the region, a vast blistering, as it
-were, which raised the entire structure, layer
-<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span>
-upon layer, several thousand feet in the air.
-Following this doming process, a vigorous program
-of erosion commenced. Stratum by stratum
-the winds and rains cut across this huge
-blister in a horizontal plane, eventually laying
-the core open at the height above sea level at
-which we find the Black Hills today. From
-that core, extending in every direction in the
-general form of a circle, the various strata
-which once lay so smoothly one upon another
-have been laid open as one might slice off the
-top of an orange.</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="421" />
-<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">The Doming of the Black Hills</span></p>
-<p class="pcapc"><span class="ss">Rock Strata being
-shifted into a dome at
-the time of the great
-continental uplift.</span></p>
-<p class="pcapc"><span class="ss">The forces of erosion&mdash;wind
-and water&mdash;have
-levelled the dome and
-opened the seams to
-view.</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>In order to get an even clearer picture of
-how this amazing phenomenon came about
-<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span>
-through the aeons, let us fold back the ages to
-the very birth of this planet.</p>
-<p>For centuries men have attempted to determine
-the earth&rsquo;s exact age, but except for the
-famed Archbishop James Ussher of Ireland,
-who gravely calculated that the earth was
-formed at precisely nine o&rsquo;clock on the morning
-of the twelfth of October in the year 4004
-B.C., no scientist has been able to come closer
-than a few million years in the figures.
-Through a number of trustworthy measurements,
-however&mdash;including, in recent years, the
-examination of the deterioration of radioactive
-elements in rocks&mdash;geologists have agreed that
-the oldest known ingredients of the earth&rsquo;s
-crust have been in existence at least two billion
-years, and, according to some very recent calculations,
-possibly as long as three and a half
-billion.</p>
-<p>In what is known as the Archean period,
-the most ancient of which we have any geological
-knowledge, a vast sea covered much of
-North America, bounded by certain masses of
-land, the extent of which has never been discovered.
-From this land mass remnants of
-mud and sand were broken away by waves and
-deposited on the floor of the sea. Eventually,
-under the pressure of its own weight, this material
-<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span>
-formed shales and sandstones to an undetermined
-depth&mdash;many thousands of feet.
-Those particular sandstones and shales underlie
-the entire Black Hills area and extend in
-nearly every direction for a considerable distance,
-suggesting perhaps that the area of the
-Hills was at one time the bottom of this watery
-bowl.</p>
-<p>The Archean period came to an end some
-five hundred million years ago. By then the
-seas had withdrawn, and the new land formations
-which had lain under the early ocean
-merged with the vestiges of the first land mass.
-But this metamorphosis, which can be described
-in such calm fashion, was by no means
-a gentle affair. It took place largely as the result
-of a shifting and rising of certain ocean
-bottom areas, among which was the region
-where we now find the Black Hills.</p>
-<p>At the time of this uplift, and possibly contributing
-to it, there was a tremendous disturbance
-in the lower regions of the earth
-which sent great streams of molten matter up
-into the several-mile-thick layer of shale,
-through which it poured toward the surface,
-breaking through in monolithic forms and
-hardening into granite. The New Mexico
-writer, Eugene Manlove Rhodes, describing
-<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span>
-a similar geologic phenomenon in the valley of
-the Rio Grande, has called it &ldquo;like sticking a
-knife through a tambourine,&rdquo; and indeed it
-was. Harney Peak, in Custer State Park, is
-just such a granite finger pointing up through
-the original shales toward the sky.</p>
-<p>When this disturbance took place the granite
-juttings did not rise above the surrounding
-landscape as they now do. In many cases they
-did not even reach the surface of the shale beds,
-but ceased their flow and hardened short of
-the crust of the earth, as it was then to be
-found. When, however, the region was domed,
-many millions of years later, the subsequent
-weathering of the huge blister did not attack
-these granite formations with anywhere near
-the vigor with which the softer sandstones and
-limestones were eroded. What actually occurred,
-then, was a peeling away of the softer
-rocks, leaving the granite formations near their
-original sizes, but at last above the ground level
-in the form of peaks, needles, and spires.</p>
-<p>But we have gotten ahead of our story. Following
-the Algonkian period, when the molten
-matter was injected into the layers of shale,
-there came what is known as the Cambrian
-period. The Cambrian occupied the first 80,000,000
-years of the Paleozoic era, which in
-<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span>
-itself covered the entire period from 510,000,000
-to 180,000,000 years ago.</p>
-<p>During the Cambrian period the land subsided
-again, perhaps because of the weight of
-the uplifted sedimentary formations. During
-this subsidence the waters once again covered
-vast portions of North America, and additional
-muds and slimes were deposited on the bottom.
-It was at this period that life first appeared
-on the earth, in the form of simple marine organisms
-which have left fossil remains. These
-deposits made in the Cambrian period can be
-seen in outcroppings all through the region,
-although they are most notably found in the
-area about Deadwood. Because of their structure
-they indicate to the geologist that the
-shoreline of the ancient Cambrian sea was near
-at hand, and also that this covering of water
-was by no means as extensive or as deep as the
-earlier Archean sea.</p>
-<p>The deposits of sand and mud, which were
-eventually pressed into stone, occasionally
-reach a depth of as much as five hundred feet,
-although they were laid down extremely
-slowly, as eddying mud is laid at the bottom
-of a pond. In the locality of Deadwood they
-contained a rich infiltration of gold, and the
-entire conglomeration was thoroughly intermixed
-with a vast outcropping of much older
-rock&mdash;this effect undoubtedly having taken
-place later, during the great continental uplift,
-when the final doming occurred.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
-<h4>THE AGES OF EARTH</h4>
-<table class="center" summary="">
-<tr class="th"><th>MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO </th><th>(Pre-Cambrian Existence back to 3&frac12; Billions of years)</th></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">PALEOZOIC ERA</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">510</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Cambrian Period&mdash;First fossils deposited. Marine life.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">430></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Ordovician Period&mdash;Invertebrates increase greatly.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">350></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Silurian Period&mdash;Coral reefs formed. First evidence of land life.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">310></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Devonian Period&mdash;First forests. First amphibians.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">250></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Mississippian, Pennsylvanian, and Permian Periods.&mdash;Reptiles and insects appear. Continental uplift at end of this period.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">180</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">MESOZOIC ERA</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Triassic Period&mdash;Small Dinosaurs. First mammals.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">150></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Jurassic Period&mdash;Dinosaurs and marine reptiles dominant.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">125></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Cretaceous Period&mdash;Dinosaurs reach zenith of development then disappear. Small mammals. Flowering plants and development of hardwood forests.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">60</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">CENOZOIC ERA &amp; PERIOD</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Paleocene Epoch&mdash;Archaic mammals.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">50></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Eocene Epoch&mdash;Modern mammals appear.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">35></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Oligocene Epoch&mdash;Great apes appear.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">25></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Miocene Epoch&mdash;Grazing types of mammals appear.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">10></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Pliocene Epoch&mdash;Man appears.</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="r">0</td></tr>
-</table>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div>
-<p>The next period of the earth&rsquo;s age&mdash;the
-Ordovician period, which extended from 430,000,000
-to 350,000,000 years ago&mdash;has left its
-mark just as visibly upon the Black Hills. It
-was during this period that the many species of
-invertebrate marine life reached a zenith of
-development, and that a bed of sediment was
-laid down and later compressed to a pinkish
-limestone. The fact that this Ordovician bed
-is less than forty feet thick indicates that the
-land mass from which the muds and sands were
-drawn was very low, and that the Cambrian
-sea was relatively shallow, entertaining only
-minor erosive currents along its shores.</p>
-<p>The next two ages, the Silurian and the
-Devonian, which brought our earth down to a
-scant 250,000,000 years ago, did not see the
-deposit of any silting in the Black Hills region.
-No doubt the waters which covered the locality
-dried up gradually. The Mississippian period,
-however, was a time of great depositional activity.
-A layer of limestone between five and
-six hundred feet thick was set down over the
-entire section. In later periods this limestone
-<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span>
-underwent much decay and water erosion,
-which formed the amazing caverns for which
-the Black Hills are known. Wind Cave, now
-the site of a National Park, Crystal Cave, and
-Jewel Cave are the best-known tourist attractions
-among the many, although there are a
-number of lesser ones, some even today only
-partially explored.</p>
-<p>The chemical activity which accomplished
-this erosion was caused by the seeping of rain
-water down through later accumulations of
-sediment on top of the layer of limestone. As
-it seeped through rotting vegetation and timber
-the water collected carbonic acid gases
-which, when it reached the level of the Mississippian
-limestone, eroded the structure and
-ate out huge hollows in it.</p>
-<p>The thickness of the Mississippian deposit
-indicated that at this time the earth had again
-sunk beneath the waters to a considerable
-depth. The shallow sea which had not offered
-sediment to a greater depth than a few feet
-was replaced by active currents which carried
-heavier sedimentary materials from great distances,
-laying them down on the floor of the
-sea in various strata to a depth of several hundred
-feet. Finally, after an unknown number
-of millions of years, but perhaps during the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span>
-Triassic period, the land again rose above the
-level of the waters. A red shale suggests a time
-of great aridity when the region must have
-been a near desert, and certain discernible patterns
-in the shales suggest periods of rapid
-evaporation and a consequent change in chemical
-activity.</p>
-<p>Finally the land subsided again, for the last
-time to date. At times salt water covered the
-region, and at other times fresh water left its
-chemical mark. At some levels in this last
-layer of sedimentary rocks an abundance of
-fossils can be found, indicating deep water, and
-at others ripple-marked rock indicates very
-shallow water. It remains a period of great
-mystery. How long this final submersion continued
-we do not know; but in all probability
-it lasted nearly a hundred million years, and
-then was terminated by the vast upending of
-North America which created the Rocky
-Mountains. This upheaval did not take place
-suddenly, as a volcanic eruption or a series of
-earthquakes, but apparently commenced about
-sixty million years ago and lasted, as a continuous
-series of shiftings and slow upheavals,
-for about twenty million years.</p>
-<p>At the beginning of this mighty uplifting
-the region of the Black Hills was covered by
-<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span>
-the various layers of sedimentary deposits to
-a depth of nearly two miles. Slowly this rectangular
-area was lifted as a dome over the
-surrounding prairies. We do not know how
-high above the level lands this dome reached,
-but we do know that several thousand feet of
-later deposits overcapped the granite upthrusts
-which were planted in the fundamental shales.
-Those granite fingers, which have now been
-exposed to view, stand from five hundred to
-four thousand feet above the plains, and thus
-the original dome may be assumed to have extended
-from eight to ten thousand feet above
-our present-day sea level.</p>
-<p>Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first
-started, as soon as the first land of the Black
-Hills was elevated above the great sea, the
-forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain
-worked their terrifying magic on the slowly
-rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks
-and the loose dirt and leaving only the granite
-outcroppings. Down from the sides of the
-great dome poured the waters of melting
-snows, gushing springs, and torrential rainfalls,
-digging out rivers, canyons, and the
-deep and narrow cuts which characterize this
-beautiful region. Slowly the land continued to
-rise and the oceans to fall until at last an equilibrium
-<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span>
-was reached, a static state of affairs
-which remained much the same until our own
-period, when the base of the dome was at last
-revealed, with the surrounding lands drifting
-away in every direction on a gentle incline.</p>
-<p>From that day the structure of the Black
-Hills has changed but little. The high winds
-off the Dakota plains and the annual spring
-run-off and seasonal rains cut their minute
-etchings in the landscape; but Nature&rsquo;s greatest
-effort in the Black Hills part of the world
-has, it seems, been made. It must be remembered,
-though, that Nature has had other responsibilities.
-At the time of the doming of
-the Black Hills the Alps had not yet been
-formed, nor the Pyrenees, nor the Caucasus.
-And on the site of the mountains we know
-today as the sky-piercing Himalayas, the
-swampy waters still moldered.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div>
-<h2 id="c3"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER THREE</span></span>
-<br />The Hills Today</h2>
-<p>It is this writer&rsquo;s personal opinion that no
-other resort area in the United States possesses
-such a wealth of tourist attractions as
-the Black Hills. This profusion of happy endowments
-can be separated into three categories,
-each of which deserves individual study
-and enjoyment. Two of these, the region&rsquo;s
-folklore and its memories of the gold rush, belong
-to the amazing history of the Hills. But
-of course the visible landscape and the natural
-wonders of the area are the primary objects of
-the tourist&rsquo;s visits, and it is proper that they
-be considered immediately and in detail.</p>
-<h3><i>Wind Cave</i></h3>
-<p>The Wind Cave lies ten miles north of Hot
-Springs on U.S. 85A. The cavern is the focal
-<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span>
-point of interest in its own National Park,
-which takes in forty square miles. Nearly half
-of this park is enclosed with a high fence, behind
-which one of the last great bison herds
-roams contentedly. Protected antelope, elk,
-and deer also enjoy this game preserve.</p>
-<p>The cavern was discovered, according to
-legend, by a cowboy who heard a continued low
-whistling noise in the weeds and, investigating,
-found air rushing from a ten-inch hole near the
-present entrance to the cave. And indeed it
-is this very phenomenon that makes Wind
-Cave different from other notable caverns, such
-as the one at Carlsbad. Even on the stillest of
-days a steady current of air can be felt rushing
-in or out of the cave&rsquo;s opening&mdash;into the earth
-if the barometer is rising, and out of the
-ground if the pressure is falling.</p>
-<p>The National Park Service conducts tours
-of the cave, the complete excursion lasting
-some two hours. Fortunately, although the
-visitor descends to a great depth as he searches
-out the various chambers on the route, the tour
-ends at an elevator which whisks him swiftly
-to the surface near the starting point.</p>
-<p>The entire cavern is a little more than ten
-miles long, although there are portions of it
-which have not even yet been explored so that
-<span class="pb" id="Page_29">29</span>
-their size may be known with accuracy. It is
-not graced with the growths of stalactites and
-stalagmites normally to be found in limestone
-formations, but nature has compensated for
-that lack by fashioning a peculiar box-work
-which looks for all the world as if the cavern
-had been subjected to an interminable frosting
-process. These beautiful fretwork deposits,
-which are not to be found in any other cave, are
-the result of a strange chemical process that
-took place in the limestone stratum where
-Wind Cave is located. Surface water seeping
-into the stone became charged with carbon dioxide
-gas from the decaying organic matter
-through which it passed. This gentle acid then
-dissolved the limestone only to redeposit it in
-cracks and crevices around other limestone
-fragments. The precipitated limestone was of
-a different chemical composition and resisted
-later onslaughts by the eroding acids&mdash;which,
-however, did eat away the fragments around
-which the precipitate had formed, leaving the
-maze of hollow crystalline formations that can
-be seen in the various chambers of the cavern.</p>
-<p>The National Park, being relatively small,
-is not equipped with overnight facilities; but
-this does not matter, for the town of Hot
-Springs is but twenty minutes&rsquo; drive from the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span>
-park, and the town of Custer is only twenty
-miles away. There are, however, camping
-grounds in the park, and the Park Service operates
-a lunchroom at the entrance to the cave.</p>
-<h3><i>Custer State Park</i></h3>
-<p>Custer State Park is located almost in the center
-of the Black Hills. Containing nearly one
-hundred and fifty thousand acres, it is one of
-the largest state parks in America. It was
-originally set aside as a state game refuge, and
-it was not until the advent of summer touring
-as a national pastime that the state of South
-Dakota purchased additional private lands
-which contained scenic wonders, incorporating
-all of them into the one large area.</p>
-<p>Today the park is the center of all tourist
-activity in the region. A number of excellent
-lodges, camp grounds, and tourist courts along
-every road make it particularly easy for the
-tourist to stop at will for a day or more to enjoy
-the various recreational facilities as his
-fancy dictates. In every respect the park is
-effectively administered: food and lodging
-prices are held to a reasonable figure, the cleanliness
-of the buildings and grounds is regularly
-inspected, and the landscape is protected from
-commercial exploitation.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
-<p>The center of the park&rsquo;s activities is the
-Game Lodge, a monstrous Victorian hotel
-built in 1919 and operated under a private
-lease. Close by the Game Lodge are cabins,
-stores, eating establishments, the park zoo, a
-museum, and the offices of the state park officials.
-The Lodge, those with a flair for nostalgia
-will recall, achieved international renown
-in 1927 when President Coolidge made it the
-summer White House. It lies on US. 16,
-thirty-two miles from Rapid City and seventeen
-miles from the town of Custer.</p>
-<p>It behooves the writer to mention at this
-point that the museum connected with the
-Game Lodge is by no means the drab and
-dusty sort of collection of impedimenta associated
-with the vicinity that is so often found in
-museums at scenic sites. Indeed, this fine attraction
-is an assemblage of geological, paleontological,
-and historical items which trace with
-rare discernment the whole history of the Hills
-through the ages, and up to our own day. The
-visitor who fails to pass an hour in this exciting
-spot will have missed the heart of the Hills
-entirely.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
-<h3><i>Harney Peak</i></h3>
-<p>Harney Peak stands like a sentinel in Custer
-Park. The highest point in the Black Hills,
-it rises to an altitude of 7,242 feet, 4,000 feet
-above the prairie floor outside the Hills.
-Higher by 900 feet than Mount Washington
-in New Hampshire, it is the highest mountain
-east of the Rockies.</p>
-<p>High as it is, Harney Peak is by no means
-the typical mountain which tourists come to
-expect after a trip through Colorado, for example,
-or western Wyoming. It is older by
-ages than the precipitous and craggy Rockies,
-and the winds and waters have worked their
-slow erosion on it, cutting away what high
-shelves and escarpments might originally have
-existed and leaving it, except at the top, a gentle
-and easy mountain that may be climbed
-over a trail which will scarcely tax the laziest
-tourist.</p>
-<p>On the top of the peak will be found the core
-of granite that originally broke through the
-Archean shales. This granite, subject to the
-mechanical ravages of wind, rain, and frost,
-is rugged and coarse, a steep dome covered
-with a thick lichen. From this eminence the entire
-Black Hills area can be seen, rolling away
-<span class="pb" id="Page_33">33</span>
-in every direction&mdash;great waves of pinnacle
-and mountain, gradually subsiding and disappearing
-in the haze of distance which covers
-the prairies. Especially striking from this spot
-is the view of Cathedral Park, with its hundreds
-of needle-like spires and organ pipes,
-and, sheltered in a quiet recess, that amazing
-phenomenon, Sylvan Lake.</p>
-<h3><i>The Needles</i></h3>
-<p>The Needles Highway, a fourteen-mile stretch
-of road, branches off U.S. 16 about five miles
-west of the Game Lodge. At the time of its
-construction in 1920-21 it was regarded as an
-engineering marvel, although later exploits of
-American highway builders, such as the road
-to the top of fourteen-thousand-foot Mount
-Evans in Colorado, have since far overshadowed
-this accomplishment.</p>
-<p>The road winds and curves in an interminable
-pattern, finding its way, by trial and error
-it seems, among the great granite spires
-that give the region its name. These &ldquo;needles,&rdquo;
-through the last of which the highway actually
-plunges in a tunnel, are the remains of a great
-granite plateau which once covered that entire
-portion of the Black Hills. Contrary to popular
-opinion, the rocks are not outthrusts, the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span>
-result of some ancient upheaval, but the last
-thin vestiges of this once-solid plateau. The
-age-old process of erosion has carved them into
-the shapes they now have; and the inquiring
-visitor can see the process still at work, for
-upon close inspection this granite is found to
-be not the impregnable stone it appears, but
-rock in a late stage of disintegration. Rot is
-the word which actually describes this formation,
-and in many spots whole chunks can be
-picked from the side of a spire by hand. It was,
-as a matter of fact, this situation which made
-the construction of the Needles Highway possible.
-Had the granite been solid, the task of
-cutting the Needles and Iron Creek tunnels
-would have been so expensive as to prohibit the
-entire undertaking.</p>
-<h3><i>Sylvan Lake</i></h3>
-<p>Not all of the scenery in the Black Hills was
-created by Nature. Sylvan Lake, in many respects
-the most beautiful corner of the region,
-was made entirely by hand.</p>
-<p>It was near the turn of the century when
-two hunters, Dr. Jennings of Hot Springs
-and Joseph Spencer of Chicago, got the intriguing
-idea of having an additional tourist
-attraction in the vicinity of Harney Peak&mdash;a
-lake.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="801" />
-<p class="pcap">Along the Needles Highway</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="896" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Harney Peak older by ages than the Rockies</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
-<p>Some lakes are difficult to construct, while
-some are relatively easy. Sylvan belongs in the
-latter category. The two imaginative gentlemen
-merely bought a small tract of land between
-two great granite shields and built a
-dam seventy-five feet high between the boulders.
-The waters of Sunday Creek, which
-flowed to their dam, together with local
-springs, at last contrived to fill the area back
-of the dam. Today this loveliest of lakes basks
-peacefully high above the world at an elevation
-of 6,250 feet, actually on top of a ridge, at the
-north terminal of the Needles Highway.</p>
-<p>It is easy for any lover of water scenes to
-become enthusiastic as he describes the colorations
-of his favorite lake, so I shall merely state
-that Sylvan never looks the same in two consecutive
-moments. Not having the symmetry
-of natural lakes or the tremendous depths of
-glacial pools, this body of water plays the role
-of mirror to the fabulous rock shapes which
-surround it; and indeed it is a source of never-ending
-delight to watch the cloud and sun patterns
-as they wrestle with the shadows of the
-rocks on its surface.</p>
-<p>For many years Sylvan Lake and its environs
-<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span>
-were operated privately. A hotel catered
-to the tourists who bounced over the privately
-built road in buggies and horse-drawn busses.
-In 1919 the property was purchased by the
-state of South Dakota, and since that time it
-has been operated as a public facility. When
-the original hotel burned, in the thirties, the
-state built with funds procured from the federal
-government a comfortable and modern
-hostelry, the most amazing feature of which
-is the expansive dining room with picture windows
-looking out over the lake to Harney
-Peak.</p>
-<p>The hotel is small, as resort hotels go, containing
-only fifty rooms, and the tourist would
-do well to arrange for accommodations in advance
-of his visit. There are, however, a number
-of cabins operated in conjunction with the
-main building, and except at the height of the
-season rooms can probably be found in the annexes.
-Along the lake shore an excellent restaurant,
-independent of the hotel, serves the
-needs of the traveler who has only a few hours
-to spend at this stop.</p>
-<h3><i>Mount Rushmore</i></h3>
-<p>From Sylvan Lake around back of the north
-side of Harney Peak it is a drive of but a few
-<span class="pb" id="Page_37">37</span>
-miles to the second man-made wonder of the
-Hills&mdash;the Mount Rushmore Memorial.</p>
-<p>Perhaps no one thing has done so much to
-make the Black Hills known throughout the
-world as this incredible undertaking&mdash;the carving
-in the natural granite face of a mountain
-of the faces of our four most revered presidents:
-Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and
-Theodore Roosevelt. &ldquo;Teddy&rdquo; is included for
-his lasting service to the people of the United
-States as the president who saw the Panama
-Canal project through Congress and into being.
-The military and economic values of that
-enterprise so deeply impressed the sculptor of
-this mammoth frieze that he insisted upon elevating
-TR into the august company of the
-other three great statesmen.</p>
-<p>The whole story of the memorial would fill
-several volumes, and indeed has already done
-so. Briefly, the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum,
-wished to perpetuate a patriotic motif in stone
-figures so large that they would attract visitors
-from every corner of the country and impress
-upon them the glories of the democracy which
-the four presidents had done so much to build
-and sustain. The sculptor&rsquo;s own words were:
-&ldquo;I want, somewhere in America, on or near
-the Rockies, the backbone of the continent, a
-<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span>
-few feet of stone that carries the likenesses,
-the dates, and a word or two of the great things
-we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high
-that it won&rsquo;t pay to pull it down for lesser
-purposes.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The actual construction work started in
-1926, and the formal dedication was made by
-President Coolidge in the summer of 1927.
-Between nine hundred thousand and a million
-dollars went into the gigantic task, including
-money for supplies, wages, and the sculptor&rsquo;s
-own personal needs during the fifteen years he
-spent on the project. He died in 1941, and the
-work was completed a few months later by his
-son.</p>
-<p>The immensity of the undertaking can be
-grasped when the dimensions are noted. The
-face of each of the figures, for example, measures
-sixty feet from chin to forehead.</p>
-<p>The rough carving was done by dynamite.
-Borglum, working from a carefully constructed
-model, would mark on the sheer sides
-of the great mountain the lines where he
-wanted the stone peeled away. Then a blast
-would be set off in the hope that the rock
-displacement would approximate the lines
-marked out, and from that point the work had
-to be done by hand. At first, taking lessons
-<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span>
-from the miners working for him who had
-many years of experience in blasting the hard
-granites of the region, Borglum was able to
-reach only within a foot of the final figure by
-dynamiting. As he became more proficient in
-the use of the explosives he got to the point
-where his original blasts would shed the stone
-to a matter of an inch or less from the final cut
-surface. The head of Washington was finished
-in 1930, that of Jefferson in 1936, that of Lincoln
-a year later, and that of Theodore Roosevelt,
-the final figure, in 1941.</p>
-<p>There are no tourist facilities at the site of
-the Memorial. Like every other place in the
-Black Hills, however, Rushmore can be
-reached in a few minutes&rsquo; drive from any one
-of a number of near-by points where a tourist
-might be stopping. Borglum&rsquo;s studio, situated
-on a prominence a few hundred yards from the
-carvings, gives the best view of the scene and
-is open to the public.</p>
-<h3><i>Crazy Horse</i></h3>
-<p>It is not entirely accurate to refer to the Mount
-Rushmore Memorial as <i>the</i> other man-made
-wonder in the Hills. At the moment it is the
-only such marvel outside of Sylvan Lake; but
-in twenty-five or thirty years it will have to
-<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span>
-share that honor with the Crazy Horse Memorial,
-a statue carved on top of Thunderhead
-Mountain, between Harney Peak and the town
-of Custer. This gigantic carving, which will
-be an entire figure and not a mere bas-relief,
-will be an equestrian statue of the great Sioux
-chief, Crazy Horse, who led his nation during
-the desperate years between 1866 and 1877.
-The chief will be mounted on a prancing steed,
-his hair blowing, as if in the wind, behind him.</p>
-<p>The Indians themselves can take the credit
-for this fabulous idea. Chief Henry Standing
-Bear, a resident of the Pine Ridge reservation,
-is said to have had his inspiration after a visit
-to Mount Rushmore. Why not, he wondered,
-erect some monument to an outstanding red
-man, so that when the last of his people have
-been assimilated into the white man&rsquo;s society,
-visitors to what was once the heart of the Indian
-country can reflect for a moment upon
-the greatness of that lost race?</p>
-<p>Standing Bear wrote his idea to Korczak
-Ziolkowski, an energetic and imaginative
-sculptor, and suggested that Chief Crazy
-Horse would make a fitting symbol of the Indians&rsquo;
-struggle for existence. This was in 1940.</p>
-<p>The sculptor took to the idea, but because
-of the events of World War II he was unable
-<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span>
-to commence work on the project until 1947.
-Since then he has been setting off two blasts
-of dynamite a day, carving away the rock at
-the top of Thunderhead. But even yet the first
-faint outlines of the eventual statue are only
-barely discernible. Ziolkowski estimates that
-the entire task will consume a quarter of a century,
-if not more, and will cost not less than
-five million dollars. If this figure sounds high
-compared with the less than a million spent on
-Rushmore, perhaps the measurements will provide
-an explanation: the horse upon which the
-chief will be seated will be four hundred feet
-from nose to tail, and the entire work, from
-pedestal to top, will be more than five hundred
-feet in height.</p>
-<h3><i>Mount Coolidge</i></h3>
-<p>In this same general region lies another prominent
-Black Hills landmark which every tourist
-should take time to visit&mdash;Mount Coolidge.
-With a height of 6,400 feet, this peak is by no
-means an outstanding mountain, being ranked
-by a good half dozen higher within the Hills.
-But from its summit, which can be reached by
-an auto road leading off U.S. 85A a few miles
-to the north of Wind Cave Park, an amazing
-vista can be seen. To the east, on a clear day,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span>
-the White River Badlands loom as a great valley
-sixty miles away. To the south one can see
-across the high rolling hills all the way into
-Nebraska, and to the west landmarks in Wyoming
-are clearly visible. On the summit a
-stone lookout tower has been built for the convenience
-of visitors.</p>
-<h3><i>Jewel Cave and Ice Cave</i></h3>
-<p>Since the Black Hills are underbedded so
-widely by limestone, it is not surprising to find
-in them not one but several memorable caverns.
-There are, as a matter of fact, a dozen or
-more well-known large caves; but outside of
-Wind Cave, only Jewel Cave has been opened
-and fully prepared for public visit. The expense
-of exploring, lighting, and carving trails
-in the others has kept them off the market, so
-to speak, for in a region so packed with scenic
-delights two great caverns are about as much
-as the traffic will bear.</p>
-<p>Jewel Cave lies some fourteen miles west of
-Custer on U.S. 16, almost at the Wyoming-South
-Dakota border. It is a small cave, with
-only two tours marked out in it, one a mile
-long and the other two miles. It is noted for
-its wealth of colorful crystalline deposits, totally
-<span class="pb" id="Page_43">43</span>
-unlike the delicate filigree work to be
-found in Wind Cave.</p>
-<p>The cave was discovered by two prospectors,
-who proceeded to develop their property for
-commercial gain. In 1934 they sold the cave
-and such of its environs as they owned to the
-Newcastle, Wyoming, Lions Club and the
-Custer Chamber of Commerce. These two organizations
-sought to popularize it further as
-a lure to tourists who would have to travel
-through their towns to reach the scene. In
-1938 the federal government took it over and
-made a national monument of it.</p>
-<p>Not far from Jewel Cave is the famous Ice
-Cave. This cavern gets its name from the current
-of cold air which blows from its mouth,
-cold and clammy on even the hottest of summer
-days. The Ice Cave is not officially open
-to the public, and has not even been totally explored.
-Forest rangers and Park Service employees
-have charted some of it and have
-searched out certain channels in the strange
-formation, and from their meager reports it
-would seem that if Ice Cave is ever fully
-opened it will vie with New Mexico&rsquo;s Carlsbad
-in beauty and grandeur.</p>
-<p>For the curious tourist the only possibility
-at the moment is to take the lovely off-route
-<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span>
-trip to the cave&rsquo;s entrance, a natural arch
-twenty feet high and seventy-five feet wide.</p>
-<p>In addition to Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, and
-Ice Cave, there are a number of other caverns
-of varying interest and underground beauty
-which have been opened and exploited by private
-individuals. In many cases these are but
-indifferently arranged for public inspection,
-but can be tracked down by the visitor by
-means of the garish signs which too often
-manage to clutter the otherwise unblemished
-scenery.</p>
-<h3><i>Just Scenery</i></h3>
-<p>The foregoing are only a very few of the
-scenic wonders of the Black Hills. Detailed information
-on the various other scenic features
-is easily to be had at any of the hotels and
-tourist courts in the Hills, and brochures covering
-practically every landmark are available
-gratis, thanks to the enthusiasm of the local
-chambers of commerce, the Black Hills and
-Badlands Association, and the state of South
-Dakota. The area is crisscrossed with good
-roads, and no matter which route one takes to
-his eventual destination, every mile will be
-marked by breath-taking views and natural
-wonders.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_45">45</div>
-<p>The region, except at the summits of the
-peaks, lies at an average altitude of some five
-thousand feet. Cool nights are thus guaranteed,
-regardless of the temperatures by day.
-The highest mean temperature ranges, during
-the six months between April and November,
-from 60 to 85 degrees. Light outing clothes are
-suggested for day wear, and light wraps are
-always in order after dark.</p>
-<p>The rainfall during this same six-month
-period, averaged over fifty years, amounts to
-three inches per month; what small showers
-do occur take place most usually in an hour or
-so of the early afternoon, and refresh rather
-than hinder the tourist.</p>
-<p>The hillsides are covered with a mass of
-shrub and tree growth, and an earnest searcher
-can find specimens of no less than fifty-two
-varieties. Yellow pine, spruce, cedar, ash,
-aspen, alder, dogwood, and cottonwood are
-most in evidence.</p>
-<p>The bird lover will find the Black Hills nothing
-less than a vast aviary, more than two
-hundred species having been seen in the region.
-Animal life is almost as widely represented,
-although the casual visitor is not likely to come
-upon a native mountain lion or gray wolf. The
-assistance of forest rangers and Park Service
-<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span>
-employees is available in locating the habitats
-of some of the rarer varieties of wildlife.</p>
-<p>As might be expected, the fisherman will
-find plenty of opportunity to ply his pole in
-this region. There are nearly 150 miles of
-stream and lake frontage in the Black Hills,
-and the waters are liberally stocked by the
-state hatcheries. In addition to trout, the angler
-will encounter pike, pickerel, bluegills,
-black bass, and perch.</p>
-<p>Finally, there are the annual celebrations
-and fairs, which are always of interest to the
-outsider, for they help dramatize the particular
-region where they are held and its historical
-background. July and August are the months
-for these celebrations, and notices of coming
-events will be found posted prominently&rsquo; along
-the tourist routes. Four such outstanding occasions
-are Black Hills Range Days at Rapid
-City, Gold Discovery Days at Custer, the
-Belle Fourche Round-Up, and the Days of
-&rsquo;76 at Deadwood. The Deadwood celebration,
-it might be added, celebrates not the Revolutionary
-War, but the discovery of gold in
-Deadwood Gulch in 1876.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div>
-<h2 id="c4"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER FOUR</span></span>
-<br />History I: Indians and Gold</h2>
-<p>Gold, they say, is where you find it.
-In California in 1848&mdash;in Montana in
-1852&mdash;in Colorado in 1858&mdash;in Arizona, in
-Nevada: when they finally found it in the
-Black Hills in 1874, the Gold Rush West had
-nearly all been settled and the bonanza days
-were forever gone, for all the likely places had
-been searched.</p>
-<p>The question posed is an obvious one. With
-sourdoughs plowing and digging up the bed
-of every stream and rivulet in the West from
-1849 on, how did it come about that the Black
-Hills, lying a considerable distance closer to
-home than California and the other gold rush
-regions, had kept their glittering secret until
-so late?</p>
-<p>The truth of the matter is that the mysterious
-<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span>
-and brooding dark mountain-land was a
-good place to hide secrets. Gold had been discovered
-there, as a matter of fact, as early as
-1834, which was just seven years after the
-country&rsquo;s first gold strike&mdash;the 1827 Georgia
-rush. But unfortunately those first lucky gold-seekers&mdash;there
-were six of them&mdash;did not live
-to enjoy their taste of the Black Hills&rsquo; incredible
-wealth. Fifty-three years later, not far
-from the town of Spearfish, one Louis Thoen
-found a piece of limestone upon which was
-crudely but legibly engraved this melancholy
-message:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>came to these hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra
-Kind G. W. Wood T Brown R Kent WM King Indian
-Crow All ded but me Ezra Kind Killed by Indians beyond
-the high hill got our gold june 1834</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the back of this somber relic were the
-blunt words: &ldquo;Got all gold we could carry.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Yes, there was gold in plenty, but Paha
-Sapa of the Hills was a jealous spirit who
-guarded the forbidden portals with a great
-vengeance. It is interesting, though, to speculate
-upon how the course of western history
-might have veered had Ezra Kind made his
-way out of the bleak region to report his discovery.
-Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and most of
-the Missouri Valley would have been skipped
-<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span>
-over in a rush to the prairie West, left to be
-filled in and settled later. The upriver ports of
-the Missouri, rather than St. Louis, Kansas
-City, St. Joseph, and Omaha, would have been
-the outposts, and there would have been no
-Santa Fe Trail, no Platte River&mdash;Oregon
-Trail, but rather a heavily traveled National
-Road winding out from St. Paul and from
-Chicago. Rapid City would have been a metropolis
-the size of Denver, and when eventually
-the Union Pacific was built it would
-have been three hundred miles north of its present
-route. And the Indians? There would have
-been a far different story in that regard, perhaps
-a much bloodier and more tragic tale.</p>
-<p>But Ezra Kind was killed and his secret
-slept, and thus we are as we are today. Actually
-it was the Indians who kept the Hills so
-long forbidden&mdash;Indians of the Teton Sioux,
-the same tribe who put Ezra&rsquo;s party to the
-tomahawk.</p>
-<p>Before the California gold rush life on the
-Great Plains had proceeded pretty much on
-an even keel. The mighty Teton Sioux, all
-seven tribes of them&mdash;the Oglalas, the Unkpapas,
-the San Arcs, the Brules, the Minniconjous,
-the Blackfeet, and the Two Kettle&mdash;roamed
-the prairies at will, from the Missouri
-<span class="pb" id="Page_50">50</span>
-Valley to the Rocky Mountains. Of course
-they had their misadventures with the fur companies,
-but just as often their dealings with
-the Mountain Men were profitable, for the
-Indians, when in the mood, scouted, trapped,
-and hunted, all for the white man&rsquo;s pay.</p>
-<p>With the great exodus to California, though,
-the situation took on a different hue. Immigrants
-by the hundreds and the thousands
-poured up the rolling valley of the Platte, and
-it was not many months before the haphazard
-Indian attacks took on a new strength and design.
-Long burned the council fires in the dark
-nights, and all up and down the great plains
-the war raged. To protect the wagon trains
-the government sent its shrewdest and most
-experienced Indian agent, Thomas Fitzpatrick,
-a veteran fur trader since 1823, the famed
-&ldquo;Broken Hand&rdquo; of western legend. Summoning
-the tribes to Fort Laramie in 1851, Fitzpatrick
-managed to subdue them, but only by
-promising that he would confine the settlers
-to specific ranges and would keep them steadfastly
-out of the Dakotas and the Black Hills.</p>
-<p>In the meanwhile the eastern tribes, the Santee
-Sioux, were beginning to feel the pressure
-of settlement in the rich Minnesota valleys. In
-1862 they revolted, and the terrible battle of
-Wood Lake was fought, with the score of massacred
-settlers reaching into the high hundreds.
-The leaders of this outrage were, of course,
-apprehended and punished, but whole tribes
-fled into the western plains, into the land
-of the Black Hills, where they eventually
-joined forces with their Teton cousins.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="745" />
-<p class="pcap">The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width="924" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an altitude of 6,250 feet</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_51">51</div>
-<p>By 1865 matters had come to a head again,
-because although the great Sioux, numbering
-between thirty and forty thousand, had kept
-to themselves, the white man had broken his
-side of the bargain and was cutting a new route
-into the forbidden country. This passage was
-the famed Bozeman Trail, which drove north
-from Fort Laramie, on the Oregon Trail, directly
-through the Sioux country to serve the
-new gold fields of Montana.</p>
-<p>To protect the wagon trains on the Bozeman
-the army called upon General Grenville
-Dodge, who was later to build the Union Pacific.
-Dodge, Commandant of the Department
-of the Missouri, was an old hand at Indian
-warfare. He rushed into Wyoming a full force,
-four columns of men, who swiftly brought the
-angered tribes to heel.</p>
-<p>The immediate result of this engagement
-was the signing of a halfhearted and inconclusive
-treaty at Fort Sully, near Pierre, in October
-<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span>
-of 1865. The treaty attempted to settle
-some old differences of a fundamental nature,
-but inasmuch as neither the Oglala nor the
-Brule were represented it failed of its mission.</p>
-<p>A year later a further powwow was staged
-at Fort Laramie to pursue the matter of keeping
-the Bozeman Trail open through the forbidden
-Sioux country. Perhaps matters might
-have proceeded equably had not General Carrington
-arrived in the midst of the delicate negotiations
-to announce that he had enough
-soldiers to protect the trail, treaty or no treaty.</p>
-<p>Carrington&rsquo;s blustery announcement, backed
-up by a show of seven hundred courageous but
-misguided cavalrymen, brought the talks to an
-abrupt end and sent the two most important
-Sioux Chieftains, Red Cloud and Crazy Horse,
-scurrying for the council fire and the war
-paths. In all the great plains there were not to
-be found braver or more single-minded Indian
-strategists than these two. For the better part
-of two years roving bands of tribesmen under
-Red Cloud and his stalwart colleague amply
-proved that Carrington could not have kept
-the trail safely open if he had had seventy times
-his seven hundred men. It was, as a matter of
-fact, the only time in our long history that
-<span class="pb" id="Page_53">53</span>
-Uncle Sam&rsquo;s troops ever took a downright
-beating.</p>
-<p>At last even Red Cloud could see that the
-white man, for all his braggadocio and poor
-planning, would eventually win the turn; and
-although his savage troops had tasted victory
-in almost every engagement, he consented in
-1868 to negotiate once more. Presumably both
-sides were wiser by then, for a pact, sometimes
-called the Harney-Sanborne Treaty, was dutifully
-signed and accepted in April of that year.
-The United States agreed to close the Bozeman
-Trail and to abandon the forts. The Black
-Hills were utterly forbidden to the white man,
-and except for an agreement to let the Northern
-Pacific rails cross the upper prairies unmolested,
-the high plains from the Missouri
-to the Big Horn were returned by federal
-order to their historic isolation.</p>
-<p>After that fiasco the situation remained comparatively
-quiet for a few years. Eastern Dakota
-was being settled bit by bit, and the rails
-were pushing forward, ever so slowly but ever
-so surely. The Missouri River was the frontier
-line, dividing the settled Dakotas from the
-Sioux lands; and Fort Lincoln, on the river
-(not far from the site of today&rsquo;s Bismarck),
-<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span>
-was the outpost that overlooked the troubled
-territory.</p>
-<p>From month to month trappers, gold-seekers,
-and would-be homesteaders slipped inside
-the Sioux curtain from the Cheyenne-Laramie
-country on the south, from the rich Niobrara
-country in northwest Nebraska, or from eastern
-Dakota itself. There was not much that
-the army could do about these treaty violators
-except worry, for the borders to be patrolled
-were vast and the forbidden lands inviting.</p>
-<p>But the army did worry, endlessly. There
-were increasingly frequent rumors of the existence
-of gold in the Hills, and year after year
-General Sheridan, commanding the Departments
-of Dakota, the Platte, and the Missouri,
-urged stronger fortification of the Sioux
-boundaries to prevent trouble. Trouble was
-particularly to be expected because several
-bands of Sioux, specifically those under Sitting
-Bull and Crazy Horse, had not agreed to government
-supervision in 1868 and seemed thirsting
-for a fight.</p>
-<p>Thus it was to make a military survey that
-Sheridan sent an expedition through the heart
-of the Hills in 1874. His force of more than a
-thousand soldiers moved under the command
-of George Armstrong Custer; and, strange
-<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span>
-impedimenta for an army, the luggage in the
-lorries included mining picks and pans, the belongings
-of H. N. Ross and William T. McKay,
-who were officially attached to the
-command. Presumably Custer was looking for
-something more than mere military sites.</p>
-<p>The Indian fighters of an earlier day&mdash;Kit
-Carson, the Bents, or Sibley, for instance&mdash;would
-have stood gaping in the stockade as
-Custer&rsquo;s force moved leisurely onto the empty
-Dakota prairies. This was no ragtag army in
-buckskin, but an orderly procession of one
-hundred and ten wagons, six ambulances, a
-dozen caissons, and two heavy field pieces.
-Each wagon and ambulance was drawn by a
-sprightly hand of six sleek mules.</p>
-<p>In addition, three hundred head of beef cattle
-browsed slowly along the way in mooing
-testimony that this expedition would live off
-the very fattest of the land. The personnel included,
-in addition to Custer&rsquo;s highly trained
-troops, a hundred Indian scouts, a platoon of
-expert white guides and trappers, and,
-mounted upon docile mares, a special contingent
-of botanists, geologists, geographers, and
-assorted expert college professors. Also, as
-has been reported, there were two miners.</p>
-<p>To the north of the Hills, crossing the Belle
-<span class="pb" id="Page_56">56</span>
-Fourche River first, the army made its gentle
-way, and then down the west slope of the forbidding
-mountains, seeking for an easy pass
-into the dark interior. Tall in the saddle rode
-golden-haired George Custer, for he was commanding
-the strongest army ever put into Indian
-country. It is little wonder that he slept
-quietly at night, or that he wrote in his diary:
-&ldquo;It is a strange sight to look back at the advancing
-column of cavalry and behold the men
-with beautiful bouquets in their hands while
-their horses were decorated with wreathes of
-flowers fit to crown a Queen of the May.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In that holiday mood the army moved down
-inside the great bowl of mountains on its sightseeing
-tour, and presently it camped about
-three miles west of the present town of Custer.
-All this while the miners had not been inactive,
-but had plied their pans here and there as the
-company passed across various streams. Until
-this bivouac, though, they had had no luck,
-and, as a matter of fact, had actually been
-expecting none. They had come along to quell
-the rumor of gold as much as to bear it out.
-Preferably to quell it, if General Sheridan
-were to have his way.</p>
-<p>On August 2 of that year, 1874, McKay
-turned out to try his implements once again
-<span class="pb" id="Page_57">57</span>
-on French Creek. An early account gives this
-dramatic version of the famed discovery:
-&ldquo;When the earth [in the pan] was gone, he
-held up his pan in the evening sun and found
-the rim lined with nearly a hundred little particles
-of gold. These he carried to General Custer,
-whose head was almost turned at the
-sight.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Through the magic of his discipline Custer
-managed to keep his army from beating their
-ration tins into placer pans and &ldquo;claiming&rdquo; on
-the spot. Getting under way almost immediately,
-the men continued their march eastward
-through the heart of the Hills, and on August
-30 emerged from the great park and headed
-back to Fort Lincoln.</p>
-<p>In the meanwhile a messenger had been sent
-ahead with the news of gold. Scout Charley
-Reynolds, who was to die with his commander
-just two years later, was detached from the
-base camp and sent scurrying down to Fort
-Laramie, to the nearest telegraph station.
-Within an hour of his arrival at the post, two
-hundred miles to the south and west of the
-Black Hills, the tremendous news was burning
-over the wires to General Sheridan in St.
-Louis.</p>
-<p>It was also burning some operator&rsquo;s ear
-<span class="pb" id="Page_58">58</span>
-along the way, for the great secret, which was
-to be handed only to the high command in
-Washington, made its way on that very day
-into the editorial rooms of the old <i>Chicago
-Inter-Ocean</i>&mdash;where, naturally, it was treated
-with great respect and splashed across the
-headlines with all the vigor of an announcement
-of the Second Coming.</p>
-<p>There was actually a genuine religious fervor
-in the proclamation, for the locust had
-been upon the land for many months in the
-eastern cities, and the bread lines had been
-growing. It had threatened to be a cold winter
-until ... until this last bonanza burst upon the
-nation.</p>
-<p>Men had all but forgotten what a gold rush
-was like. It had been so long since the last great
-hegira to the Pikes Peak region that a new
-generation had come into manhood, a generation
-that knew California only as a state, Colorado
-as a prosperous territory, and the Union
-Pacific as the proper way to cross the empty
-West. There were none of the desperate winter
-marches up the Continental Divide this time,
-no lost wagon trains on the salt deserts, no
-Indian massacres. This rush left Chicago on
-the &ldquo;cars,&rdquo; as noisy and as highhearted as fans
-following a football club.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_59">59</div>
-<p>And there was another great difference between
-the foray to the Black Hills and the earlier
-gold rushes. In this case the argonauts did
-not get to the diggings. The troops saw to that.
-Deploring the untimely leak of official intelligence
-concerning the presence of the yellow
-metal in the Dakota outcropping, the War
-Department issued stern warnings to all settlers
-to keep away. The existence of the treaty
-with the Indians was proclaimed in every
-paper&mdash;and, though less resoundingly, the danger
-from the Indians was also mentioned.</p>
-<p>Nonetheless, before the end of that crucial
-year a sizable group of foolhardy settlers broke
-through the blockade and made themselves at
-home. Erecting a strong stockade at the scene
-of the first strike, they soon carved themselves
-a town in the wilderness, gratefully naming it
-Custer, and even that early providing for the
-wide main street where ox teams could make
-a U-turn. Throughout the first winter these
-illegal townspeople managed somehow to survive
-the cold, the lack of rations, and the danger
-of Indian attack; but late in the spring
-General Crook&rsquo;s cavalry arrived to &ldquo;escort&rdquo;
-them out of the Hills and back to the railroad
-at Cheyenne.</p>
-<p>Many of the citizens of that first town took
-<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span>
-their eviction with fair grace, turning to other
-means of employment than gold mining&mdash;and
-there were plenty&mdash;in Cheyenne, Denver, and
-the other near-by and rapidly growing settlements.
-One group, though, the Gordon Party,
-apparently enjoyed leadership of a tougher
-sort. They refused to be intimidated by the
-troops. Setting up camp on the very boundary
-line between the forbidden country and the
-permitted Platte Valley, they just waited. Actually,
-an increasingly large number of immigrants
-waited on the border only until
-nightfall, and then set out into the unknown.
-Some were apprehended by the cavalry and
-returned, some were killed by the sullen tribesmen,
-but hundreds of them managed to find
-their way to the vicinity of French Creek.
-More than that, they managed to stay.</p>
-<p>It might be thought that gold mining, with
-all its necessary paraphernalia, supplies, and
-general confusion, could not very well be carried
-on in an atmosphere suggesting the more
-modern practice of moonshining; but the truth
-of the matter was that there were just too
-many settlers and too few soldiers. Time and
-again the troops would swoop down on some
-busy little gathering and hustle the miners out
-to the nearest courts, where they would hastily
-<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span>
-be acquitted and released to go back to their
-workings. Under the very fist of forbiddance
-a score of towns had sprung up, among them
-the reborn Custer City.</p>
-<p>Finally the government gave up all hope of
-keeping the eager immigrants out of this last
-frontier. By the fall of 1875 the border towns
-of Sidney, Nebraska, Yankton, South Dakota,
-and Cheyenne and Laramie, Wyoming, were
-bursting at the seams with gold-hunters who
-demanded &ldquo;their rights as citizens.&rdquo; Bowing
-to the inevitable, the government sent a treaty
-commission to wait upon the Sioux. This body
-of earnest men offered the Indians six million
-dollars for the right of entry into the Hills.
-Although the treaty Sioux agreed to sell, the
-price they asked wavered between twenty and
-one hundred million. Crazy Horse, who did
-not attend the council, refused to sell at any
-price and solemnly warned the white man to
-stay out.</p>
-<p>Frustrated, the treaty commissioners returned
-to Washington in despair, while the
-embittered Sioux disappeared into the west
-river country to nurse their grievances. Upon
-this turn of affairs, the government washed its
-hands of the matter and opened the lands to
-settlement.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_62">62</div>
-<p>That was in June of 1875. Within a matter
-of weeks after the bars had been let down, the
-Hills were populated by uncounted thousands
-of men, women, and children. Many simply
-came out of the woods to claim honestly the
-diggings they had been working dishonestly;
-but many, many more came from the East by
-every train, now that the country was legitimately
-open.</p>
-<p>It was a motley assembly that took part in
-this Black Hills rush. In earlier bonanzas the
-type had been pretty well formalized, for the
-difficulty of the overland journey to California,
-for example, or across to the Pikes Peak
-region, had kept all but the roughest&mdash;and
-toughest&mdash;at home. But on this occasion the
-West was by no means as wild as it had been
-in those earlier days. Distances had been conquered;
-transportation methods, even beyond
-the railroads, were much safer and more adequate;
-and the Black Hills, although cold in
-the middle of winter, offered none of the
-climatic ferocities of the Rocky Mountains.
-Thus, to partake of this feast of yellow dust
-hopeful clerks brushed shoulders with desperadoes,
-professional men of every accomplishment
-traded rumors with crease-faced
-sourdoughs from the dead land south of the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_63">63</span>
-Mogollon, and oldsters who had thought they
-might never again hold a pan in their hands
-dug alongside mere boys from whom the apron
-strings had been relaxed.</p>
-<p>In the meantime, even as the good citizens of
-Custer, Gayville, Central City, Golden Gate,
-Anchor City, and a host of other thriving
-towns, most of which have long been given
-over to the ghosts, were bustling about their
-exciting business, matters in the west were taking
-a slow but inexorable turn for the worse.</p>
-<p>The army had let the situation ride for the
-summer and fall, keeping a careful watch over
-the enemy Sioux, but feeling fairly assured
-that they would attempt no large-scale raid of
-the Hills, populated now by at least fifty thousand
-people. Summer and fall were not normally
-times to worry over, in any case, for the
-buffalo were still on the range and forage was
-plentiful for the tribes. It was in the depths
-of winter that the tale would be told&mdash;either
-the Indians would come docilely to the reservations
-for their rations, or they would steer
-clear of the white man&rsquo;s soldiers and supply
-their own necessities by raiding the isolated
-ranch and stage line outposts.</p>
-<p>By mid-December the reservations were still
-empty, and General Terry sent out a call to
-<span class="pb" id="Page_64">64</span>
-Sitting Bull, ordering him to bring his people
-in to the military posts. January 1, 1876, was
-given as the deadline. The haughty Sioux chief
-paid scant attention to Terry&rsquo;s order, replying
-simply that the general knew where to find him
-if he wanted to come for him. Sitting Bull
-knew that the army would attempt no large
-maneuvers with the weather as it was&mdash;one of
-the bitterest winters in recorded history.</p>
-<p>Then he simply waited.</p>
-<p>But General Terry was no man to take a
-short answer. Immediately he ordered three
-expeditions to prepare themselves for the field,
-to move as soon as weather should permit, and
-to take the Indians early in the spring when
-their ponies would still be thin and unrecovered
-from the winter&rsquo;s rigors. General Crook
-was to march north from Fort Fetterman, on
-the North Platte River; General John Gibbon
-was to move south and east from Fort Ellis, in
-Montana; and General Custer was to come
-west from Fort Lincoln.</p>
-<p>Unfortunately not only the Indians but the
-weather as well turned against General Terry,
-for with the thermometer standing most of the
-time at between twenty and forty below and
-the prairie covered with the glaze of incessant
-<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span>
-blizzards, neither Custer nor Gibbon was able
-to move out of camp.</p>
-<p>Crook, though, was able to best the winter
-when March rolled in and to locate one of the
-most dangerous of the rebel bands, Crazy
-Horse&rsquo;s renegade Oglalas, deep in the Powder
-River Valley. This was on March 17, 1876.
-Had Crook&rsquo;s men not made certain grave errors
-of tactics after a brilliant surprise, the battle
-might have solved the problem. As it turned
-out, the Indians galloped a few circles around
-the troops and made merrily off into the forest.
-Again the weather closed in.</p>
-<p>Three months later, when the summer
-weather made campaigning possible, Crook&rsquo;s
-troops were able to take to the saddle again,
-and again Crazy Horse was located, this time
-encamped on the Tongue River, between Powder
-River and Rosebud Creek. Again the battle
-was inconclusive, for the troops seemed
-unable to press the advantage of their surprise
-discovery of the Indians.</p>
-<p>Eight days later, on June 17, the bewildered
-but indomitable Crook came a third time upon
-Crazy Horse, now on Rosebud Creek. On this
-occasion the troops were able to euchre the Indians
-into a pitched battle&mdash;and were thereupon
-so thoroughly trounced that Crook&rsquo;s
-<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span>
-command was essentially immobilized where
-the bleeding remnant lay at the battle&rsquo;s close.</p>
-<p>By the time the harassed cavalrymen had
-bound up their wounds and remounted, Crazy
-Horse had disappeared over the hills and down
-into the Big Horn Basin, where his cohorts
-joined a host of other bloodthirsty braves in a
-great Sioux encampment. Black Moon was
-there, Inkpaduta, Gall, and a major roster of
-other courageous Indian warriors. Counseling
-them and performing their good medicine was
-none other than Sitting Bull himself, who, it
-should be said, was not a warrior but a medicine
-man and tribal diplomat.</p>
-<p>Historians have never been able to agree
-upon the number of braves assembled under
-this battle flag, but all concur in the belief that
-the camp could have contained no less than
-three thousand warriors&mdash;in all probability the
-greatest single Indian army ever to be put into
-the field against the troops.</p>
-<p>By this time other help was coming for
-Crook, as he lay in the south nursing his ill
-fortune. General Custer, having scouted out
-Crazy Horse&rsquo;s retreat, had been ordered to
-stop him from the north and to pinch the Indians
-between the prongs of his force and
-Crook&rsquo;s.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div>
-<p>But it was Custer rather than Crazy Horse
-or Sitting Bull who met the pincers. Coming
-upon the headquarters village of the enemy,
-Custer divided his force of 600 men into four
-groups: Benteen with 140 odd, Reno with
-about 125, McDougall with the ammunition
-and supplies and perhaps 140 men, and Custer
-himself retaining the balance.</p>
-<p>While McDougall stayed to the rear, Benteen
-was sent off on a fruitless errand into a
-badly broken terrain to the southwest. Custer
-and Reno in the meantime proceeded side by
-side toward the village. Coming over the last
-remaining hill before the Indian camp, Custer
-dispatched Reno ahead to make a preliminary
-contact with the enemy, while he rode off in a
-somewhat parallel direction, apparently bent
-on encircling the savages.</p>
-<p>Meanwhile Reno did indeed encounter the
-Indians, and when he realized how tragically
-outnumbered he was, he immediately dismounted
-his men to fight a delaying action on
-foot, thereby saving both men and horses. He
-obviously adopted this tactic on the theory that
-he would be supported from the rear by Custer.
-When he saw that Custer had decided to
-make a diversionary attack on the right flank
-of the enemy, Reno and his men gave up the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_68">68</span>
-fight and concentrated on scrambling out of
-the trap and making their way to the hill which
-overlooked the village.</p>
-<p>From that vantage point Custer and his
-force could be seen across the Little Big Horn
-at a distance of perhaps a thousand yards.
-Apparently thinking that Reno was still successfully
-engaging the Indians, Custer rode
-his men down into a ravine where he apparently
-encountered the full horde of savages
-and where he met his death. The details of that
-last action have never been made clear, but
-most experts think that he divided his pitifully
-weak force into two segments at the time of
-the final charge which took him full into the
-heart of the great enemy body. Thus it was
-that Custer was caught in the pliers of the attack,
-in which hopeless position his entire force
-was wiped out to the last man, officer, and
-guide. Custer&rsquo;s Last Stand, as it has been
-poetically called, was in every respect the
-greatest defeat of white forces in the history of
-Indian warfare.</p>
-<p>Custer&rsquo;s death marked the end of the Black
-Hills controversy. Although the Indians had
-been completely victorious, they had spent so
-heavily of their warriors and their supplies
-that they were never again able to mount a
-<span class="pb" id="Page_69">69</span>
-major attack against the whites. Swiftly the
-troops hunted them down, village by village,
-and within a year the great Sioux War had
-ground to a stop.</p>
-<p>A second treaty commission had been appointed
-late in 1876, and by February the
-transfer of the Black Hills from the Sioux Nation
-to the United States had been completed&mdash;not
-for a cash consideration, but only for
-the government&rsquo;s promise to support the Indians
-until such time as they might learn, under
-agency supervision, to provide for themselves.</p>
-<p>By that time the question of entry was no
-more than rhetorical. The Black Hills were as
-thickly populated as any region of equal size
-in the West. The stage routes in from Cheyenne,
-from Sidney, Nebraska, and from the
-Dakota railheads were well traveled. The last
-frontier had been broken.</p>
-<p>And besides&mdash;there was Deadwood and the
-Homestake.</p>
-<p>The original rush had centered in historic
-Custer, the scene of the first entrance into the
-country on French Creek, and the terminus
-of the Cheyenne-Black Hills stage line. By
-Christmas of 1875 the population of that wilderness
-settlement was in excess of ten thousand
-<span class="pb" id="Page_70">70</span>
-souls, each of them active and bustling
-about his business.</p>
-<p>On the other hand, there was not a great deal
-of business to bustle after. French Creek was
-a good clue to gold, but that was about all.
-Before long most of the good citizens, having
-found the little brook something of a snare
-and a delusion, were casting about for some
-way to make their livings from each other.
-Storekeeping, laundering, ranching, hostlering,
-all were honorable occupations which soon
-found a plenitude of practitioners.</p>
-<p>In that fashion the winter was passed. Ice
-capped the waters and the snow hung from the
-trees, and aside from hoping for spring there
-was little the thronging populace could do.
-Thus a fruitful field was in fallow for the gossip
-which started blossoming in March and
-April. The tales, whispered&mdash;as such stories
-always are&mdash;without definition or authority,
-had it that somewhere in the northern Hills
-there was another stream that had nuggets the
-size of ... it is unimportant how large the nuggets,
-for a glitter of dust the size of an eye-speck
-would have been a windfall in Custer.
-Day by day the rumor grew, and as is always
-the case with such gossip, the precise location
-<span class="pb" id="Page_71">71</span>
-of this &ldquo;Deadtree Gulch&rdquo; was never made entirely
-plain.</p>
-<p>The reason for this obfuscation was simple:
-a rich strike had actually been made far in the
-north part of the Hills, and the claimants were
-doing their level best to keep it a secret. The
-fact that Custer held its population as long as
-it did was a testament to the sagacity and close-lippedness
-of John Pearson and Sam Blodgett,
-who had stumbled, late the previous winter,
-into one of the world&rsquo;s richest gold basins.</p>
-<p>The secret held for only a few months. Trappers,
-prospectors, and mere travelers were
-passing through the spruce trails of the Hills
-in such profusion that sooner or later the activity
-up Deadwood Gulch, as it came to be
-called, was bound to be observed. Pearson had
-found his dream cache in December of 1875,
-and he managed to contain the secret only until
-March of 1876. Like a forest fire the news
-of the strike to the north spread, and by May
-the southern Hills were deserted. Custer, for
-several years the metropolis of the entire region,
-lost all except thirty of its citizens in a
-matter of weeks, and other settlements in the
-south and west simply dried up and disappeared.</p>
-<p>That Deadwood Gulch, so named for the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_72">72</span>
-stand of burned-over timber which graced its
-declivitous sides, contained a major deposit
-was not to be denied. The rich sands which
-Pearson had spaded up testified to that, and
-later comers were by no means disappointed.
-But the names and locations of individual early
-discoveries have long been lost to all save the
-most assiduous researchers, for there was one
-claim which outshone all the rest. That digging
-was the mighty Homestake, which, from its
-first days, has produced gold and assorted
-other precious ores in such abundance and with
-such dependability that it has been accepted
-the world over as one of earth&rsquo;s great mines,
-rivaled in munificence only by the Portland-Independence
-of Cripple Creek in Colorado
-and the fabulous workings of the Witwatersrand
-of South Africa.</p>
-<p>As with all rich diggings, an appropriate
-legend attends the account of the original
-discovery of the Homestake. It seems there
-were two brothers, Fred and Moses Manuel,
-who had long been addicted to that most
-vicious of all unbreakable habits&mdash;gold prospecting.
-Moses had wound his weary way
-through the West for a full quarter of a century,
-plodding the dusty California gold
-gulches in &rsquo;50, up the steep heights of Virginia
-<span class="pb" id="Page_73">73</span>
-City in &rsquo;60, into Old Mexico, and&mdash;although
-he was a full generation too early&mdash;into
-Alaska. But now, in 1875, he was through with
-it all and was going home.</p>
-<p>Collecting his brother Fred, who was fruitlessly
-panning the sands of the Last Chance
-Gulch in the high border country of Montana,
-Moses started east, passing of course through
-the Black Hills, to scout down this one last
-ray of rumor&mdash;that a new strike was in the
-making. Setting out their camp in Bobtail
-Gulch, a mere pistol shot from certain placer
-claims in Deadwood Gulch, they went to work
-in midwinter, hoping to find, the legend has it,
-just enough blossom rock to give them a stake
-for their homeward journey.</p>
-<p>They seem to have hit it with a vengeance,
-not mere placer gold in the stream bed but a
-genuine lode, for on April 9, 1876, they patented
-the claim known as the Homestake. Discarding
-for the moment all idea of going on
-home with whatever meager wealth this &ldquo;last&rdquo;
-try should bring them, the Manuel brothers
-immediately consolidated their position by going
-into partnership with another prospector
-and taking shares in the Golden Terra, an adjoining
-piece of real estate, the Old Abe, and
-the Golden Star. The immediate returns, by
-<span class="pb" id="Page_74">74</span>
-the ton, are not today known, but they must
-have been substantial, for the lucky brothers
-built an arrastra&mdash;a crude millstone affair for
-grinding ore&mdash;and managed to pocket more
-than five thousand dollars in their first year of
-operation.</p>
-<p>In the natural run of events the Homestake
-and the adjoining parcels which the Manuel
-brothers were operating would probably have
-worked well enough for a year or so, and would
-then have suffered the fate of thousands of
-other diggings throughout the gold-rush West&mdash;the
-surface ores would have played out, and
-because of the high cost of following the lodes
-deeper into the earth than a few dozen feet,
-the mines would have been abandoned. But in
-this case a San Francisco syndicate came into
-the picture, providing the necessary capital
-funds for the searching out of whatever ultimate
-wealth the Homestake might have.</p>
-<p>This syndicate of Pacific Coast businessmen
-included James Ben Ali Haggin, a partner in
-the highly solvent Wells Fargo express company,
-and Senator George Hearst, the father
-of the publisher, William Randolph Hearst.
-These vigorous men sent a mining engineer
-into the Hills in 1877 to canvass the location
-for possible investments; and in the course of
-<span class="pb" id="Page_75">75</span>
-a detailed examination of whatever properties
-seemed to be paying well, this emissary from
-Market Street came upon the brothers Manuel.
-A superficial examination of the Homestake
-and the Golden Terra sufficed this
-engineer, and he optioned them both, the first
-for seventy thousand dollars and the second
-for half that sum. Returning immediately to
-California, he delivered to his employers samples
-of this richest gold mine in North America,
-and without delay Senator Hearst went
-to South Dakota to see for himself.</p>
-<p>What he saw impressed him most favorably,
-for upon his return to California he owned
-both the Terra and the Homestake, as well as
-several other claims on the same hill, a total of
-ten acres of mining property. That small figure
-is significant in the light of the fact that the
-Homestake Mining Company today owns
-more than six thousand acres of mining claims.</p>
-<p>With the incorporation of the mining company
-in San Francisco, the aboriginal methods
-employed by the Manuel brothers were discarded,
-and the latest in mine machinery was
-laboriously shipped by train to Sidney, Nebraska,
-and then by ox team the two hundred
-miles to the town of Lead (pronounced
-&ldquo;Leed&rdquo;), the precise location of the Homestake,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span>
-two miles from Deadwood City. The
-first installation was an eighty-stamp mill,
-which began its work in July of 1878. Within
-five years six additional mills were in operation,
-holding a total of 580 giant stampers.</p>
-<p>The mine now handles four thousand tons
-of ore per day and has, in its sighted reserve,
-twenty million tons yet to work. The two main
-shafts reach into the earth to a depth of more
-than a mile, with branching tunnels piercing
-the mountain at hundred-foot levels; and there
-are more than a hundred and fifty miles of
-secondary tunnels, served by more than eighty
-miles of mine railway.</p>
-<p>The richness of the Homestake ore has averaged
-fourteen dollars per ton for many years
-now. This may not sound like any considerable
-amount of wealth&mdash;but the most active gold
-operation in Colorado, the Fairplay dredge,
-is working gravel which pays an average of
-nine cents per ton.</p>
-<p>Finally, the records of the company show
-that it has mined 70,000,000 tons of ore, yielding
-a total of 18,000,000 ounces of gold, which
-has brought a gross price, at various standards,
-of $450,000,000.</p>
-<p>With the opening of the Homestake, the
-conquest of the Black Hills was effectively
-<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span>
-completed, and the region entered into a period
-of rapid development and expansion. Although
-the great mine at Lead was run solely
-as a business enterprise, devoid of glamour and
-excitement, the town of Deadwood, two miles
-away, enjoyed a decade of the lustiest history
-ever to be known by a bonanza town. During
-its years of activity and arrogance Deadwood
-contributed to our national folklore several
-great figures, among them Calamity Jane,
-Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill Hickok, and
-Preacher Smith.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_78">78</div>
-<h2 id="c5"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER FIVE</span></span>
-<br />History II: Deadwood Days</h2>
-<div class="verse">
-<p class="t0">Sam left where he was working</p>
-<p class="t">one pretty morn in May,</p>
-<p class="t0">a-heading for the Black Hills</p>
-<p class="t">with his cattle and his pay.</p>
-<p class="t0">Sold out in Custer City</p>
-<p class="t">and then got on a spree,</p>
-<p class="t0">A harder set of cowboys</p>
-<p class="t">you seldom ever see.</p>
-<p class="lr">&mdash;&ldquo;<span class="sc">Legend of Sam Bass</span>&rdquo;</p>
-</div>
-<p>It has become the literary custom to recall
-our bonanza frontier less as an economic
-phenomenon than as a backdrop for bloodshed,
-mayhem, and assorted turns of vigor and violence.
-Early California, for example, is today
-known less as the scene of the accomplishments
-of James Fair, Charles Crocker, and Leland
-Stanford than as the arena for the armed
-forays of Joaquin Murietta, Black Bart, Dick
-<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span>
-Fellows, and various other gunmen. Since this
-is the accepted practice, it is entirely appropriate
-to introduce the gold-rush days of the
-Black Hills with a brief account of the banditry
-and thuggery which accompanied the
-early growth of that last frontier.</p>
-<p>The quotation at the head of this chapter is
-one verse of an old folk ballad, &ldquo;The Legend
-of Sam Bass,&rdquo; the not particularly inspiring
-saga of the life and death of an Indiana-born
-horse thief and road agent. Actually, Bass had
-little to do with the history of the Hills, and as
-anybody knows who has ever whistled or sung
-his song, the bulk of the chronicle concerns
-his struggle against the Texas Rangers.</p>
-<p>On the other hand, Sam Bass will long live
-in Black Hills history, for regardless of his
-other accomplishments he went to his glory
-bearing the credit for having originated the
-fine art of stage robbery in that Dakota wilderness.
-The Black Hills, like every other gold
-region, enjoyed but scant holiday from the
-pestiferous road agents. During 1875 and
-1876, when the region was filling up, it seemed
-that there was plenty to occupy the imagination
-of every individual who was able to make
-the tortuous trip from the railroad. But by
-1877 the area had calmed down to such an
-<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span>
-extent that idle hands could occasionally be
-counted in the dram shops, and the time was
-ripe for the devil to get in his work.</p>
-<p>From the point of view of geography the
-Hills presented ideal conditions for armed
-assault. The two major stage lines leading
-into the region were the Cheyenne-Black Hills
-Line, running through two hundred miles of
-desolate emptyland, and the Sidney Short
-Route, less long by some thirty miles, but passing
-through equally lonely country. In addition,
-one freight and stage line came in from
-the east, from Fort Pierre, and another from
-the north, following the general heading of
-Custer&rsquo;s 1874 expedition. The gold, though,
-most often traveled the fastest route, out to
-the Union Pacific at Cheyenne or Sidney.</p>
-<p>During the first twenty months or so of the
-Black Hills gold rush, armed guards were not
-normally counted among the personnel of the
-stage coaches. As a matter of fact, in most
-instances it was to be questioned whether or not
-any gold rode the stages, for the going was
-generally thin in the diggings, and the average
-operator accumulated his bullion for several
-months before amassing a shipment large
-enough to be worth the trouble and worry.
-For all the wealth of the Homestake, the Hills
-<span class="pb" id="Page_81">81</span>
-by no means repeated California&rsquo;s early history,
-when every stage worth tying a horse to
-carried at least some treasure. And yet, in the
-springtime most of the miners cleaned up their
-winter&rsquo;s take, it was commonly understood,
-and ... well, Sam Bass must have thought,
-every good thing must have a beginning.</p>
-<p>In March, 1877, Bass organized a gang of
-cutthroats in Deadwood, and the brief period
-when one could ride the coaches in comparative
-safety came to an end. It was not much
-of a gang that the legendary bandit gathered
-around him, the five other men being mostly
-cowardly and quite worthless, either as adventurers
-or as strategists. Bass himself was little
-more than a &ldquo;punk,&rdquo; as he would be called today,
-and, as a matter of fact, did not earn his
-immortality until much later, in Texas, where
-he was shot down in a barber chair by a
-Ranger.</p>
-<p>The gang, if they might so be called, foregathered
-on the snowy night of March 25 in
-Deadwood and, after consuming sufficient
-whiskey to enable them to stand the cold, made
-their way down the south road to a point a few
-miles from town where they might intercept
-the incoming stage from Cheyenne. What genius
-of diabolical planning led them to attack
-<span class="pb" id="Page_82">82</span>
-an inbound conveyance, which could be carrying
-little more than ordinary mail, rather than
-the &ldquo;down&rdquo; stage, which might possibly be
-loaded with bullion, has never been figured out,
-but at any rate they camped themselves in the
-snow and waited.</p>
-<p>At last the stage hove into sight, and Bass,
-the trusty leader, cautioned his hoodlums not
-to shoot, but merely to stop the coach and
-demand the mail pouch. Presumably the sentiments
-of the period held that robbery without
-gunfire was quite condonable, and an entirely
-different affair from burglary accompanied
-by shooting. It is also quite possible that Bass
-was only minding his own safety, for the night
-had already been marked by one misfortune&mdash;one
-of his men had managed to shoot himself in
-the foot while putting on his deadly hardware.</p>
-<p>As might be expected, however, Bass&rsquo;s well-laid
-plans went very much agley. In the excitement
-of calling &ldquo;Halt!&rdquo; one of the bandits
-proved a bit too eager-fingered, and even as
-the stage driver was reining his team to a stop,
-a shotgun blared out, emptying its charge at
-close range into the driver&rsquo;s chest.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="" width="412" height="700" />
-<p class="pcap">Calamity Jane, during her carnival days</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="481" height="699" />
-<p class="pcap">Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="755" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun messengers</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="789" />
-<p class="pcap">Deadwood Gulch in 1881</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="775" height="600" />
-<p class="pcap">Modern Deadwood&mdash;seventy years later</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div>
-<p>With the shot the horses bolted, and shortly
-thereafter they pounded into Deadwood,
-guided by a hatless passenger who had managed
-to secure the ribbons as they dangled.
-Within a matter of minutes a posse had been
-formed and riders were making their way into
-the woods. Inasmuch as Bass and his companions
-had been acting suspiciously during the
-afternoon and evening, the finger of accusation
-pointed altogether correctly in their direction,
-and before the moon was down Sam Bass was
-well on his way to Texas, escaping Deadwood&rsquo;s
-justice only to go to his lathered doom.</p>
-<p>This tragic foray against law and order set
-the stage, so to speak, and before long the
-spruce trails of the Black Hills, once so still
-and harmless, could be passed over safely only
-in the company of &ldquo;shotgun messengers,&rdquo; as
-the armed attendants were called. It did not
-take the stage companies long to come to this
-way of operating, for Wells Fargo, which
-contracted for the express business, had
-had a quarter-century of rugged experience.
-Bringing their brave talents swiftly to bear on
-the situation, the Wells Fargo men steel-plated
-the coaches to be used for bullion shipments,
-and brought into the Hills the famed treasure
-chests which had figured so largely in the history
-of the coming of law and order to California&mdash;metal-bound
-cases too heavy to be
-transported quickly from the scene of crime,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_84">84</span>
-and too sturdy to be opened except after arduous
-work with chisels and crowbars. The chests
-had been developed with the idea that a posse
-could be gathered at the spot where a stage had
-been held up before the gold could be removed
-from the chest or the chest itself taken far
-away.</p>
-<p>A more important safety factor than the
-chests was the reputation of the shotgun messengers.
-The express companies went to great
-lengths to engage only the most fearless and
-law-abiding men they could find for this dangerous
-task, and time and time again thousands
-upon thousands of dollars in bullion rode across
-the lonely trails with no more than one man,
-his shotgun, and his reputation for bravery
-guarding it.</p>
-<p>Wyatt Earp, perhaps the most noted of
-these messengers, entered his long tour of
-Wells Fargo duty through that firm&rsquo;s Deadwood
-office. Earp, as any lover of western
-legend will tell, earned his vigorous reputation
-as marshal in the bloody Kansas cattle towns
-of Dodge City and Abilene. After the excitement
-of these Gomorrahs had worn off, he
-made his way to Deadwood in 1876&mdash;not as a
-gold-seeker, but apparently merely in search
-of honest and not too dangerous employment.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_85">85</span>
-At any rate, his brief stay in the Hills was
-given to the profession of coal and wood dispensing
-rather than to law enforcement. Either
-the weather or the lethargy of the place suited
-him poorly, for within the year he was casting
-about for some means of making his way back
-to his own plains country.</p>
-<p>Taking advantage of the public clamor
-against road agents after the Sam Bass affair,
-he offered his services to the express agent and
-was hired for the single trip out for fifty dollars
-cash and free passage. The agent was by
-no means doling out any charity in this exchange,
-for he knew the value of Earp&rsquo;s reputation
-and looked upon the fifty dollars as a
-cheap form of insurance. He advertised in the
-local newspaper: &ldquo;The Spring cleanup will
-leave for Cheyenne on the regular stage at
-7 <span class="small">AM</span> next Monday. Wyatt Earp of Dodge
-will ride shotgun.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Bullion shippers were quick to take advantage
-of this extra protection, and it was recorded
-that no less than two hundred thousand
-dollars in bullion was weighed in for that special
-trip. It would be most dramatic to recount
-that Earp&rsquo;s one trip was marked by attempted
-mass raids, burning coaches, and wounded
-drivers, but the truth of the matter is that the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_86">86</span>
-journey was made on time and in good order.
-Only one shot was fired, and that by Marshal
-Earp, who took offense at the suspicious actions
-of a rider whose course seemed to parallel
-the stage route for an unaccountable distance.
-Without stopping the stage or otherwise
-alarming the passengers Earp dropped the offending
-horseman a few miles out of Deadwood,
-and the rest of the trip was made without
-incident.</p>
-<p>Despite the vigor with which the treasure
-coaches were protected, armed robbery continued
-to take place sporadically all during
-the final decade before the rails pushed through
-from the East. By and large these forays,
-while bloody, were unsuccessful, and not a single
-desperado was able to rise to any sort of
-fame during that period. On the other hand,
-there was one robbery which must go down in
-history for the strange way in which the loot
-was recovered.</p>
-<p>This particular villainy, remembered as the
-Canyon Springs robbery, took place on September
-28, 1878. The locale of the outrage was
-not far out of Deadwood on the rough way
-through Beaver Creek and Jenney Stockade
-into Wyoming and thence to Cheyenne. The
-coach, on this fateful occasion, was rumored
-<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span>
-to be carrying nearly one hundred thousand
-dollars in ingots from the Homestake, as well
-as from other works; and although shipments
-of such size were not altogether rare, they were
-sufficiently out of the ordinary to suggest the
-services of additional shotgun messengers. It
-may well have been the mere fact of the scheduling
-of additional guards that called the
-attention of the bandits to this particular manifest.</p>
-<p>The holdup took place in midafternoon, as
-the driver was stopping the coach to water the
-horses. In the gunplay three men were killed,
-and the bandits escaped with the loot from the
-treasure chest, which they apparently managed
-to chisel open. Ten miles away one of the
-guards came upon a party of horsemen, who
-returned to the scene of the carnage; but upon
-their arrival they found the coach despoiled of
-its gold.</p>
-<p>In many such cases the bandits would have
-been recognized as local or near-local citizens;
-but in this instance all of the desperadoes appeared
-to be strangers to the Hills, and consequently
-the law officers had very little except
-guesswork to guide them in their pursuit.
-Guesswork coupled with just plain snooping
-soon uncovered a trail, however, for one of the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span>
-stage agents turned up a ranch owner who
-gave the information that a small group of
-men had, on the very evening of the holdup,
-bought a light spring wagon from him. Such a
-transaction was unusual enough to indicate
-that the purchasers were by no means individuals
-of legitimate calling, and in all probability
-were the actual bandits. Setting out on this
-trail, the agent managed to trace them and
-their wagon all the way to Cheyenne, where the
-group had apparently turned to the east.</p>
-<p>By that time persons who had seen them in
-passing had recognized them, and their names
-were broadcast to the marshals and sheriffs of
-all the eastern regions of the plains. Day after
-day the stage agent followed their trail east,
-across the Missouri, across the border of Nebraska,
-and on to the pleasant town of Atlantic,
-in Iowa. By that time the wagon had been
-discarded and the gang had broken up, and
-the agent was following only one spoor&mdash;the
-track of a young man who was always seen
-with a strange, heavy pack on his back.</p>
-<p>In the town of Atlantic the trail came to an
-abrupt end, and indeed the mystery might
-never have been solved had it not been for a
-strange display in the street window of a local
-bank. Pausing to see what it might be that
-<span class="pb" id="Page_89">89</span>
-was engaging the attention of a crowd at the
-window, the agent was astounded to behold
-part of the very loot he was pursuing&mdash;two
-bullion bricks stamped with serial numbers
-which identified them beyond a doubt as part
-of the Canyon Springs treasure.</p>
-<p>Upon questioning, the banker proudly asserted
-that his son had only the day before returned
-from a successful adventure in the
-Black Hills, and had, as a matter of fact, found
-a gold mine, which he had sold for the very
-bricks making up the exhibit.</p>
-<p>Gently the agent disabused the banker of
-this sad misapprehension, and, enlisting the
-aid of the local Sheriff, had the prodigal son
-arrested.</p>
-<p>The unfortunate conclusion to this tale of
-detective expertness is that although the gold
-was eventually returned to the Homestake, the
-young bandit escaped from the train which
-was carrying him back to Cheyenne, and was
-never thereafter apprehended. As for the other
-four robbers and the rest of the treasure, no
-further trace of either was ever discovered.</p>
-<p>Although banditry and skulduggery played
-a very great part in the tales of most of the
-other bonanza gold fields, the Black Hills
-story was for the most part happily without
-<span class="pb" id="Page_90">90</span>
-extraordinary violence. Much more conspicuous
-in the history of the Hills than the desperate
-adventures of bandits are the exploits
-of the folk heroes who rode the Deadwood legend
-into immortality. Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity
-Jane, Deadwood Dick, Preacher Smith,
-all of these amazing personalities achieved a
-lasting fame during the early days of this later
-frontier, not for any deeds of derring-do in
-the Sam Bass fashion, but for the old American
-custom of living and dying in a high and
-wide manner.</p>
-<p>In all probability Deadwood Dick has carried
-the saga of the Hills farther and to a
-greater audience, both in this country and
-abroad, than any of the others, and for that
-reason, as well as for the strange circumstance
-that he never existed, it is perhaps well to tell
-his story first.</p>
-<p>Dick, who never had a last name, was nothing
-more nor less than the happy creation of
-an overworked literary side-liner eking out a
-living in the late seventies. Having exhausted
-the possible plot complexities of such heroes
-as Seth Jones and Duke Darrall, Messrs.
-Beadle and Adams, proprietors of that stupendous
-literary zoo, The Pocket Library
-(published weekly at 98 William Street, New
-<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span>
-York, price five cents), urged their hack, Edward
-L. Wheeler, to crank out a new character.
-This Shakespeare of the sensational,
-having recently heard of the brave doings in
-Deadwood, of the Black Hills, promptly created
-a latter-day Leatherstocking, Deadwood
-Dick.</p>
-<p>Dick&rsquo;s success was instantaneous, for there
-was a sense of truth in these stories which had
-theretofore been missing. Dispatches in every
-post brought the news of Deadwood as it was
-happening, and thus the weekly appearance
-of another Deadwood story was able to hang
-itself firmly on the coattails of reality. In one
-episode Dick courts Calamity Jane, who actually
-existed at the time, and finally marries
-her. In another, Our Hero is a frontier detective,
-fighting bravely on the side of law and
-order. In still another he has turned to robbery,
-and at one point is actually strung by
-his neck from a cottonwood gallows.</p>
-<p>After exhausting the many plot possibilities
-of the Black Hills, Dick, who had become as
-real to his readers as George Washington, began
-to work both backward and forward in
-time and space. In one set of adventures he is
-shown to be an active Indian fighter; in another
-he turns up with Calamity Jane in the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span>
-town of Leadville, Colorado, which came into
-its glory not long after the strike in Deadwood.</p>
-<p>At last the many loose ends of the story so
-entangled author Wheeler that he gave up
-Deadwood Dick as a lost cause and out of nowhere
-fetched him a son, Deadwood Dick, Jr.,
-who marched on to the turn of the century
-and down into our own time. Indeed, his noble
-features can still occasionally be found staring
-gravely up from a pile of old and dusty magazines
-in attic corners.</p>
-<p>With such a heritage it is little wonder that
-as the town of Deadwood grew away from its
-infancy, and as its modern Chamber of Commerce
-turned to summer pageants as a source
-of tourist interest, Deadwood Dick should be
-revived and paraded. Deadwood&rsquo;s summer festivals,
-the gay &ldquo;Days of &rsquo;76,&rdquo; are built around
-a town-wide re-creation of the gold rush, with
-the natives chin-whiskered, booted, and costumed
-within an inch of their lives. During
-this gusty week otherwise sober and retiring
-citizens turn themselves out as stage coach
-drivers, Indians, and pony express riders, and
-the nights are filled with such a bubbling halloo
-that the tourists, who come in ever larger
-droves, are able to go home and report that
-<span class="pb" id="Page_93">93</span>
-they have honestly spent time in a frontier
-town.</p>
-<p>To heighten the effect, the impresarios of
-this gay divertissement many years ago decided
-to raise Deadwood Dick from Beadle&rsquo;s
-pages and put him on the street like all the
-other self-respecting Calamity Janes and Wild
-Bills. Locating an oldster who looked not unlike
-the artist&rsquo;s original concept, they dressed
-him in an assortment of western oddities and
-gave him time off from his duties as a stable
-hand while the festival was in session. For several
-years this simple pretense was carried on,
-and no sleep whatsoever was lost over the fact
-that a mild fraud was being perpetrated on the
-visiting Iowans.</p>
-<p>In 1927, though, when South Dakota was
-negotiating with Calvin Coolidge to get him
-to spend his summer in the Hills, the stable
-hand, whose name happened to be Dick Clarke,
-was sent to Washington to extend a personal
-welcome to the President. Patently a publicity
-stunt, it fooled nobody but old Dick himself.
-The rigors of the trip and the succession of
-tongue-in-cheek honors heaped upon him somehow
-tilted the old man&rsquo;s mind, and from that
-day until his death a decade later he fully believed
-that he was the original Deadwood Dick.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span>
-Frowning down any suggestions that he doff
-his beaded finery and return to the care of the
-oat bins, he betook himself far from the gentle
-safety of the Deadwood that he knew and that
-knew him, and took to touring the backwoods
-with fifth-rate medicine shows and Wild West
-pageants. Somewhere along the line he got up
-a small pamphlet which he sold to the gawking
-audiences who thought they were seeing a
-genuine frontiersman. In this amazing tract
-he spelled out such of the facts of Wheeler&rsquo;s
-stories as were coherent and in logical time
-sequence. The rest, including a date and place
-of birth, he soberly filled in for himself.</p>
-<p>And that was Deadwood Dick. When he
-finally died, back in Deadwood in the early
-forties, much of the town had come to believe
-as he did that there had been a Deadwood Dick,
-just as there had been a Calamity Jane, and
-that this gaffer had been the very person. His
-cortege was solemnly followed, and to this day
-flowers are sprinkled on his grave by confused
-but loyal residents of the Hills.</p>
-<p class="tb">Wild Bill Hickok, on the other hand, actually
-lived, and actually died exactly as the
-legend goes, with aces and eights in his hand.
-It was this unfortunate occurrence, as a matter
-<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span>
-of fact, that gave to that particular poker hand
-its gruesome name, Dead Man&rsquo;s Hand.</p>
-<p>Somewhat in the manner of Deadwood Dick,
-Wild Bill achieved a large part of his fame
-through the earnest efforts of Beadle &amp; Adams.
-That is to say, much of his renown came after
-his untimely demise, and much of it was deliberately
-generated to satisfy the great western-yearnings
-of the avid book-buying public. In
-addition to the publishers&rsquo; efforts on Bill&rsquo;s behalf,
-great impetus was given to his posthumous
-repute by Calamity Jane. Nevertheless,
-in all probability Hickok was actually the fearless
-and sterling character his legendeers have
-depicted, and had he not been brutally done
-to death by feckless Jack McCall he would
-doubtless have earned even greater fame
-through his own efforts in later years.</p>
-<p>James Hickok was born into a farming family
-in Illinois in the year 1837, and passed a
-quiet and respectable boyhood in the ordinary
-pursuits of such an existence. In his nineteenth
-year he, like so many other young men of that
-day, felt the urgent call of the Far West. He
-hired himself out forthwith as a teamster in a
-wagon train to the Pacific Coast.</p>
-<p>Returning at the end of this one visit to the
-golden shores, he managed to land in the Platte
-<span class="pb" id="Page_96">96</span>
-Valley of the eastern Rockies in the very year
-when gold was being discovered in that region.
-The following two years he spent in odd jobs
-around Denver and on the high plains to the
-east of that new city. During all this time,
-however, it seemed as if his heart were hungering
-for the lower country. He let his drifting
-carry him slowly back into Kansas where, at
-the beginning of the Civil War, he managed a
-station for Hinckley&rsquo;s Overland Express Company,
-which was then staging from St. Joseph,
-Missouri, to Denver and into Central City.</p>
-<p>All these adventures gave ample opportunity
-for any young man of spleen to entangle
-himself a dozen times over in killings, brawls,
-and assorted rough businesses, but through
-this entire period James Hickok gave evidence
-of being nothing but a stalwart and well-intentioned
-individual.</p>
-<p>The harmlessness of his pursuits, though,
-came to an explosive end after one year in this
-genial work, when he indulged in pistolry with
-a certain McCanles gang. One version of the
-Wild Bill legend states that the &ldquo;gang&rdquo; were
-cutthroats, and that Hickok was only defending
-his company&rsquo;s property. Another version,
-equally trustworthy, has it that the McCanleses
-were Confederate sympathizers, attempting
-<span class="pb" id="Page_97">97</span>
-to raise a cavalry unit in the region and
-thus offending Hickok with his Unionist leanings.
-Whatever the reason, the outcome was
-bloody. No one today knows for certain how
-many men were killed, for eyewitness accounts
-have included reports ranging all the way
-from one to six, all of them presumably slain
-by Hickok.</p>
-<p>The doughty station manager, his helper,
-and another stage company employee were
-speedily brought to trial for the affair, and
-just as speedily acquitted of any crime. Shortly
-after that Hickok resigned his express company
-affiliation and joined the Union army,
-fighting the war out as a trusted though undistinguished
-scout.</p>
-<p>After his discharge in 1865, he seems to have
-forsaken forever his once peaceful way of life,
-and thereafter blood was more than occasionally
-to be found upon his hands. His first postwar
-killing took place in Springfield, Missouri,
-in a duel with a gambler; and later that same
-year he was reported to have mortally wounded
-another card player in Julesburg, Colorado
-Territory. In the next year another report,
-unofficial like all the rest, had him killing three
-more men in Missouri, and in 1867&mdash;this <i>was</i>
-official&mdash;he went to the booming cow town of
-<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span>
-Hays City, Kansas, where he was shortly offered
-the post of marshal.</p>
-<p>That his reputation, whether truthful or
-legendary, was growing there can be no question.
-By 1867 he was accounted to be one of
-the best gunmen of his time and place, quite
-possibly for the simple reason that he had survived
-so many fights. For all the shadowy
-overtones of his story, he was also reputed to
-be a devotee of righteousness and order, although
-this facet of his character may or may
-not actually have existed. He was well known
-to be a gambler, and his victims were all (except
-the McCanleses) supposed to be cheaters
-at cards. Whether his vivacity with Mr. Colt&rsquo;s
-revolver was intended to rid the earth of dishonest
-men or merely to avenge a lost hand is
-beside the point, for his acceptance of the position
-of marshal of Hays City indicates that
-for a time, at least, his inclinations lay in the
-direction of law and order.</p>
-<p>From Hays City he went to a similar post
-in Abilene, where he bore the star until 1872.
-During all this time he was forced to kill but
-a bare minimum of unworthy citizens, his ever
-growing repute as a dangerous man with a
-gun apparently frightening would-be desperadoes
-out of his orbit. Three notches were all
-that he placed upon his weapon during his service
-in those two hell cities of the prairies&mdash;definitely
-a world&rsquo;s record in reverse.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p16.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="794" />
-<p class="pcap">One of the Black Hills&rsquo; many streams</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="598" />
-<p class="pcap">The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_99">99</div>
-<p>Apparently the inactivity came to bore him,
-for he soon gave up police work to return to
-the army for two years as a scout. This harsh
-calling also failed to satisfy whatever inner
-wants were making themselves felt, and in
-1874 he resigned to join a traveling show with
-Buffalo Bill.</p>
-<p>In 1875, however, he was to be found no
-longer behind the chemical lights, but idling
-his time away in Cheyenne. During this restless
-interlude he married a circus rider named
-Agnes Lake. Shortly after the ceremony,
-which took place in 1876, he followed the trail
-to Deadwood, arriving in April and setting up
-camp with another ex-army scout. The motives
-which drew him to that thriving boom town
-were, in all probability, those which drew the
-thousands of others&mdash;mere curiosity and the
-hope that something might turn up. Indeed,
-during the four months of his Deadwood hiatus
-he did very little but play poker in the famed
-saloon known as Number Ten. That he was
-as accomplished a gambler as he was a gunman
-was doubted by no one, and through his ability
-with the pasteboards he apparently kept himself
-<span class="pb" id="Page_100">100</span>
-in such funds as he needed. He did not
-attempt to look for gold, nor did he seek any
-official post in the town. He merely played the
-long hours away at cards.</p>
-<p>One might expect such a man as Wild Bill
-Hickok to meet his nemesis in open battle with
-a murderous cutthroat seeking to pay off an
-old score. Western legend is filled with such
-fitting come-uppances. But in this rare case
-our hero was killed in a peaceful moment by a
-total stranger and for reasons which nobody
-was ever thereafter able to discern.</p>
-<p>On the fateful day of August 2, 1876, he
-entered Number Ten shortly after the lunch
-hour to take up his everlasting hand of cards.
-Normally, being a prudent man, he insisted on
-a seat with its back to a wall, from which vantage
-point he could keep his eye cocked for
-trouble; but on this day, for some reason, he
-arrived just too late to take his customary
-position and had to accept a chair with its back
-to the door. The game proceeded amiably
-enough for a while, and there was nothing in
-the afternoon air to suggest violence of any
-sort. At last a normally inoffensive deadbeat,
-one Jack McCall, turned from the bar where
-he had been enjoying a quiet drink and, passing
-the gaming table on his way to the door,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_101">101</span>
-suddenly and without a word pulled his revolver
-from his vest and put a shot through
-Wild Bill&rsquo;s skull.</p>
-<p>The effect was instantaneous. When the
-news spread that Wild Bill had been killed, all
-work stopped in the city and men streamed in
-from every corner, expecting at the very least
-to find a major battle in progress. When finally
-the crowds were quieted down and it was
-learned that the killing was nothing more than
-a mere murder, the populace speedily hunted
-up the terrified McCall, whom they found huddled
-in a near-by stable, and arranged a formal
-trial. The facts that Deadwood was at that
-time still out of bounds to American citizens
-and therefore under no legitimate civil jurisdiction
-and that the judge, jury, and prosecuting
-attorney were elected on the spot by a show
-of hands, having therefore no official standing,
-did not dampen the ardor of the crowd. A trial
-was a trial, and its results would presumably
-be fair and honest.</p>
-<p>As a matter of fact, Jack McCall must have
-been the most surprised individual of all at the
-ultimate fairness of the legal machinery which
-had been set up in his honor. With the acceptance
-of his fumbling plea that Hickok had, at
-a place unnamed and at a time unnamed, killed
-<span class="pb" id="Page_102">102</span>
-his brother, McCall was acquitted and turned
-free, and Wild Bill was sorrowfully buried by
-the admiring populace.</p>
-<p>As soon as he was freed, McCall hurried
-back to Cheyenne to escape the reach of any of
-Hickok&rsquo;s friends. Unfortunately the story of
-the killing followed him there, and under the
-mistaken impression that he had undergone a
-legitimate trial and was therefore no longer
-subject to additional jeopardy, McCall took
-no pains to deny the murder. This was a most
-foolish tactic on his part, for he was speedily
-rearrested and shipped to Yankton, the capital
-of South Dakota Territory, where he was held
-for a session of the proper court. Inasmuch as
-he had admitted before witnesses not only that
-he had killed Wild Bill, but also that his earlier
-plea had been fabricated from whole cloth, he
-had a very slender defense indeed, and was
-quickly found guilty and banged.</p>
-<p>To the very end no clue could be found to
-any sort of sound reason for his having fired
-the fatal shot. It was quite definitely proved
-that he had never had any dealings with his
-victim and had never been in any way offended
-by him, and that he no more than knew vaguely
-who he was. It was apparently a completely
-<span class="pb" id="Page_103">103</span>
-aimless killing, the unhappy inspiration of the
-moment.</p>
-<p>On the other hand, Justice seems forever
-determined to get to the bottom of the matter,
-for <i>The Trial of Jack McCall</i> has become an
-institution of the Black Hills, played, like <i>Ten
-Nights in a Barroom</i>, all the summers long in
-a popular tavern. Where audiences elsewhere
-hiss their Legrees and other purely fictional
-villains, the proud residents of Deadwood have
-their very own and very real scoundrel for the
-target of their malisons&mdash;the miserable McCall.
-Tourists are cordially invited to join in
-the fun and thereby to spread ever farther the
-legend of Wild Bill Hickok.</p>
-<p>On June 21, 1951, the legend was further
-enhanced and improved upon by the presentation
-to the city of Deadwood of a brand new
-statue of Hickok carved out of a massive
-chunk of native granite by the ebullient sculptor,
-Ziolkowski. An all-day celebration attended
-the unveiling of this statue upon its
-pedestal at the foot of Mt. Moriah, and the
-zenith of the day&rsquo;s gaudy reverence was the
-reading of an &ldquo;epic&rdquo; poem to the hushed populace
-of the town over a loud-speaker system
-from the top of the mount. The statue is plain
-to be seen about a block from the Adams Memorial
-<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span>
-Museum, and copies of the epic can no
-doubt be had by soliciting the Deadwood
-Chamber of Commerce.</p>
-<p class="tb">Of a somewhat different character from
-Wild Bill, but, it is good to report, no less
-revered in the Hills, was Preacher Smith.</p>
-<p>Frontier towns have been notorious for their
-hallowing of persons, both male and female,
-who were either expertly good or expertly
-bad. This strange compounding of affections
-would suggest that the vice or godliness in itself
-was unimportant, but that the rough and
-crude citizens who populated our earlier settlements
-held a genuine admiration and regard
-for anyone of any calling who demonstrated
-authority and accomplishment.</p>
-<p>And thus it was with the Reverend Henry
-W. Smith. A man of exceptionally little luck
-in life, he gave up his dwindling congregations
-in the States and journeyed into the frontier
-in 1875, partly because of a zeal in his heart
-to bring the Word into the lawless and godless
-gold camps, but also, it must be conjectured,
-to find some form of weekday employment
-which would enable him to care for his wife
-and two daughters. The wolf had been howling
-at many doors during those years, and parsonages
-<span class="pb" id="Page_105">105</span>
-which carried even a bare subsistence
-stipend were few and far between.</p>
-<p>Smith went first to Custer, where he stayed
-but a short while, finding little in the way of
-work and less in the way of souls to save, since
-the rush to Deadwood was then in full force.
-Hiring onto a merchandise train as a cook&rsquo;s
-helper, he made his way to that newer city, arriving
-early in May of 1876. In a town of such
-activity it was not difficult to locate work, and
-shortly his hide began to fill out and his purse
-to thicken. That purse, it was discovered after
-his death, was to be used for the purpose of
-bringing his family out to join him.</p>
-<p>Working diligently and, of course, soberly
-at his menial tasks from Monday through Saturday,
-and bravely setting up his pulpit on
-the main street on Sundays, Preacher Smith
-soon won the respect and even the genial admiration
-of the roisterous townspeople. At
-first his congregations contained more wandering
-dogs than people, but week after week, as
-he determinedly kept after his work, an increasingly
-large crowd gathered of a Sunday
-morning to listen to his sermons.</p>
-<p>Thus the entire town was shocked when he
-was brutally killed by Indians while walking
-to a near-by settlement to preach a sermon.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_106">106</span>
-Indians were bad enough at best, but killing
-a harmless and unarmed preacher was an act
-of violence which shook the consciences of the
-whole citizen body. It was on those consciences
-that the guilt began to press&mdash;the guilt of the
-knowledge that they had driven him to his
-death by their slowness to accept him in their
-own community and that he had gone to his
-rendezvous seeking a congregation, no matter
-how small, that would house him and the Master
-he served.</p>
-<p>Belatedly gathering to his support, the citizens
-passed a sizable hat for the benefit of the
-unfortunate man&rsquo;s widow and daughters. In
-addition to the gift of cash, the woman received
-an invitation to bring her grieving family to
-the Hills, where care would be arranged for
-them, including a teaching post for the eldest
-daughter. Unfortunately, neither the widow
-nor the daughters were in good enough health
-to be able to make the rigorous trip, and in
-consequence they could not avail themselves of
-the hospitality and generosity which were so
-late in coming.</p>
-<p>Although they had failed to bring the parson&rsquo;s
-family to Deadwood, the worthy citizens
-were undaunted in their efforts to memorialize
-this modest itinerant who had stumbled unwittingly
-<span class="pb" id="Page_107">107</span>
-into glory. A great chunk of sandstone
-was quarried and a local artist of more verve
-than ability proceeded to hack out the parson&rsquo;s
-likeness. The statue was eventually propped
-over his grave atop Mount Moriah, the cemetery-museum
-where he lies alongside Wild
-Bill and Calamity Jane. Unfortunately souvenir
-hunters carried on their unworthy custom
-over the years, until finally the battered monument,
-no longer even recognizable, collapsed.
-In the Adams Memorial Hall of Deadwood,
-however, there can be seen a certificate signed
-in Preacher Smith&rsquo;s very writing, and thus his
-handiwork lives along with his legend.</p>
-<p class="tb">All stories of Deadwood in the Black Hills
-come, eventually, to the great riddle of Martha
-Jane Cannary (sometimes spelled Canary),
-known as Calamity Jane.</p>
-<p>This gusty female, who rolled around the
-West for nearly half a century, has been the
-subject of more controversy and speculation
-than almost any other early-day character. In
-her lifetime she circulated a brief autobiography
-which successfully managed to hide the
-truth about practically every aspect of her history.
-In addition, she manipulated her drab
-story in such a way that a whole generation of
-<span class="pb" id="Page_108">108</span>
-legend-mongers accepted her as the &ldquo;true love&rdquo;
-of Wild Bill Hickok, and thus by no means to
-be thought of as the drunken harlot she most
-certainly was.</p>
-<p>By dint of careful searching, however, some
-few definite facts of her early life and adventures
-have been isolated, and upon them at least
-the framework of her true story has been constructed.
-She appears to have been born in the
-neighborhood of 1850&mdash;add or subtract a year&mdash;in
-Missouri. Some accounts have it that her
-father was a Baptist minister, which is an unimportant
-sidelight, for young Martha Jane
-did not stay at home long enough for any such
-influence to gnaw its way into her personality.<a class="fn" id="fr_2" href="#fn_2">[2]</a></p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_109">109</div>
-<p>How she managed to get from Missouri to
-Wyoming while still in her early teens remains
-a mystery, but nonetheless her career as a camp
-follower started when, at the tender age of
-fourteen, she arrived in the roaring outpost of
-Rawlins. Some tales have it that she had gone
-west as the consort of a young army lieutenant,
-and that her mother, remarried to a pioneer,
-found her in that boisterous military town and
-took her to Utah. In any event she came back
-into circulation two years later, for in 1866
-she was duly married to one George White in
-Cheyenne. Following this felicitous turn of affairs
-she and her husband journeyed to Denver,
-where he was able to support her in a fine, high
-style. Unfortunately, she did not take to this
-pleasant existence, but shortly began to yearn
-after the cavalry. Leaving her husband to his
-<span class="pb" id="Page_110">110</span>
-Denver duties, she appeared all during 1867
-and 1868 in various forts throughout Wyoming.
-It was at this particular time in her career
-that she was supposed to have earned the
-nickname of Calamity Jane. Undoubtedly the
-title was bestowed upon her by barroom companions
-who had learned the sad truth that
-Martha Jane&rsquo;s appearance on the scene boded
-a long and arduous night of drinking; but in
-her maudlin and confused autobiography she
-tells of assisting in an Indian fight and for her
-splendid services being gratefully given the
-name by a Captain Pat Egan. In a later interview
-Egan denied this, claiming that the only
-time he had ever seen the woman was while
-escorting her out of a barracks so that the men
-could get some sleep.</p>
-<p>From Wyoming she went to Hays City,
-Kansas, still following the Seventh Cavalry,
-her chosen military unit. Six years later she
-turned up again, this time disguised as a man
-and marching with General Crook&rsquo;s police
-force, which was trying to keep settlers out of
-the Hills. Her autobiography claims that she
-also accompanied Custer&rsquo;s command on its famous
-exploratory march, but this does not appear
-to be true.</p>
-<p>After the discovery of gold in Deadwood,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_111">111</span>
-she found the high life in that town so completely
-to her liking that she made it her home
-base. In time she fastened herself so securely
-among the legends of the metropolis that she
-was thereafter known solely as Calamity Jane
-of Deadwood.</p>
-<p>Taking advantage of the high romance
-which surrounded Wild Bill&rsquo;s name after his
-death, Calamity made haste to pass the story
-around that he had been her only true love;
-and although there was no evidence of any
-sort that he even knew who she was, her last
-words, when she died in 1903, were a plea to
-be buried next to him.</p>
-<p>In the eighties she became restless again and
-forsook her beloved Deadwood for two decades,
-roving as far south as El Paso, and on
-one occasion being seen in California. Her activities
-at this time of her life are mostly lost
-from sight, but it may be presumed that as
-whatever charms she may earlier have had
-faded, her interest to and in the soldiers waned.
-During this period she married again, this
-time wedding a man named Burke, to whom
-she bore a daughter. She soon tired of Burke,
-however, and drifted slowly north again, passing
-considerable time in Colorado and then
-returning briefly to Deadwood in 1895. Even
-<span class="pb" id="Page_112">112</span>
-at that late date the citizens of the gold town
-had not forgotten her, nor had the esteem in
-which she had earlier been held dwindled;
-when it was discovered that she lacked funds
-to care for her daughter, the townspeople
-passed the ever present hat and arranged for
-the care of the child. This act of generosity was
-purportedly to repay a great sacrifice which
-Calamity Jane had made in the earlier days,
-braving the dangers of the smallpox scourge
-of 1878 to nurse whoever was ill and without
-help. This particular legend has had wide currency
-in the West, its closest variant being the
-tale of Silver Heels, a dancing girl who visited
-the mining camps of Colorado&rsquo;s South Park
-in the sixties. Silver Heels is popularly supposed
-to have ministered to the miners during
-a similar plague, for which bravery a near-by
-mountain was named for her.</p>
-<p>After placing her child in a school, Calamity,
-who was destitute, betook herself to the vaudeville
-circuit. Inasmuch as through the dime
-novels she had already become a well-known
-national figure, she was able for a while to
-draw large crowds. Had it not been for her
-unfortunate habit of getting dead drunk before
-show time, she might well have amassed a
-<span class="pb" id="Page_113">113</span>
-competence over the years. But her first contract
-was not renewed, and after a brief whirl
-at the Buffalo Exposition she returned to the
-West, spending the next several years in Montana.</p>
-<p>At last she came home to Deadwood, a sick
-and broken old roustabout. By this time she
-was nothing more than a bar-fly, and she lived
-out her last days panhandling food and liquor
-money from strangers. At last, on August 2,
-1903, she died of pneumonia.</p>
-<p>Deadwood turned out in force for her funeral.
-As she had requested, she was buried
-near Wild Bill Hickok on Mount Moriah,
-overlooking the town. That she had never
-really known Wild Bill was quite beside the
-point, and anyway, there was none present
-who knew whether she had or not. The shoddy
-story of her &ldquo;love&rdquo; for Hickok was nothing
-that interested the old timers, but was saved
-for historians to untangle. That she was no
-more than an alcoholic old harlot was of no
-consequence, either, to the good citizens, for
-with her passing the last of the great names of
-the frontier was coming home to rest. That the
-townspeople were proud of her, and genuinely
-so, was not to be denied, although there was
-<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span>
-most certainly nobody present at that melancholy
-service who could have told why. The
-truth of the matter was that they were burying
-not a broken old woman, but the last of the
-Black Hills legends.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_115">115</div>
-<h2 id="c6"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER SIX</span></span>
-<br />The White River Badlands</h2>
-<p>Any visit to the Black Hills must also be
-the occasion of a tour, at least for a few
-hours, of the famous South Dakota Badlands.
-This fantastic National Monument is not a
-part of the Hills, either geographically or historically,
-but because the two regions lie so
-close together&mdash;a scant fifty miles apart&mdash;they
-are expediently linked as two great natural
-wonders in the same region.</p>
-<p>The term &ldquo;badlands&rdquo; has a loose scientific
-acceptance, meaning any region where a specific
-type of heavy erosion has taken place.
-Such regions usually have subnormal rainfall
-and sparse vegetation. Those rains that do
-occur, then, find little on the earth&rsquo;s surface
-to prevent almost complete runoff, which is so
-vigorous as to act as a powerful cutting agent.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_116">116</span>
-The final ingredients of a badlands are rock
-formations known as unconsolidated&mdash;lacking
-any general unity of structure which might
-tend to withstand erosion. When all these conditions
-exist, the devastation of the rushing
-flood waters is without pattern, a great gash
-being carved in one spot while no damage is
-visible on a near-by outcropping. The end result
-is an almost frightening collection of gruesome
-stone monuments rising to the sky and
-marking the heights once reached by a general
-plateau.</p>
-<p>Actually, much of the high western plain
-abutting on the Rocky Mountains is basic badland
-formation, and small pockets of distinct
-erosion can be seen all through eastern Colorado,
-western Nebraska, and eastern Wyoming,
-in addition to the vast depression in the
-valleys of the White and Cheyenne rivers in
-South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five
-miles long and five to fifteen miles wide,
-is the largest and from the geologist&rsquo;s point
-of view the most important of all such regions
-in the world. Desolate, empty, seared by ages
-of sun and wind, it is now a great gash in the
-earth&rsquo;s flesh which exposes to view rock and
-soil strata that measure a great span of earth&rsquo;s
-history.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_117">117</div>
-<p>In addition to the splendid opportunity to
-see and study the various layers of the earth&rsquo;s
-surface going back as far as sixty million years,
-the very composition of badlands formations
-makes any such region a veritable museum of
-fossils and petrified animal relics. The South
-Dakota Badlands have turned up absolute
-treasures of such paleontological finds, enabling
-scientists to trace the evolution of mammalian
-life all the way back to the appearance
-on earth of the first carnivorous animals&mdash;the
-vastly distant ancestors of the dog. And the
-Badlands are noted not only for the great
-span in geologic time of their fossil beds, but
-also for the number of different types which
-have been found in their ancient soil, more
-than 250 different prehistoric animals having
-been discovered in various stages of fossilized
-preservation in this general region.</p>
-<p>The tourist, though, need not be even an
-amateur student of geology or paleontology
-to be thrilled and awed by a visit to this grotesque
-but beautiful area. The mere colors
-of the various rock strata, ever changing under
-the light patterns of sun and cloud, provide a
-never-to-be-forgotten experience. One of the
-most articulate tributes to the grandeur of the
-Badlands is that of Frank Lloyd Wright:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_118">118</div>
-<p>Speaking of our trip to the South Dakota Badlands,
-I&rsquo;ve been about the world a lot and pretty much over
-our own country but I was totally unprepared for the
-revelation called the Badlands. What I saw gave me an
-indescribable sense of the mysterious otherwhere&mdash;a
-distant architecture, ethereal, touched, only touched,
-with a sense of Egyptian-Mayan drift and silhouette.
-As we came closer, a templed realm definitely stood
-ambient in the air before my astonished &ldquo;scene&rdquo;-loving
-but &ldquo;scene&rdquo;-jaded gaze.</p>
-<p>Yes, I say the aspects of the South Dakota Badlands
-have more spiritual quality to impart to the mind of
-America than anything else in it made by Man&rsquo;s God.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The word &ldquo;badlands,&rdquo; which now has a genuine
-scientific meaning, was taken into our
-vocabulary from the folk name for this very
-region. In the earliest days of North American
-exploration, far back before the Revolution,
-French trappers had braved this empty
-wasteland on their endless quest for new fur
-grounds, and had brought back tales of this
-lost world of silence and strange shapes. They
-were the ones who gave it the name Badlands,
-but they were only translating directly the
-Sioux name, Mako Sika, which meant, precisely,
-lands bad for traveling.</p>
-<p>To the early explorers the badlands meant
-only that&mdash;high escarpments to be overcome;
-twisting, winding, endless canyons from which
-there were no outlets; crumbling rock underfoot
-<span class="pb" id="Page_119">119</span>
-on the three-hundred-foot crawls from
-the canyon bottoms to the table-tops; and the
-hot, shimmering distances of this forbidding
-terrain as far as the eye could see.</p>
-<p>It was, as a matter of fact, the existence of
-this area that helped keep the Black Hills nothing
-more than an empty question mark on
-maps until the rumors of gold began to circulate.
-The first American explorers, who
-might have discovered the natural wonders of
-the Hills in the 1820&rsquo;s, found their paths diverted
-to the north and the south by this impassable
-valley, and consequently missed the Hills.</p>
-<p>The first reliable record of the wonders of
-this lost world was dated 1847. That year, it
-will be remembered, was one of great moment
-in the history of the western movement&mdash;the
-year that Brigham Young braved the high
-prairies and pathless mountains with his great
-exodus, settling an empire on the shores of
-Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails
-were fairly well established by then, his was
-the first of the true migrations, and the gold
-rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and
-the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come.</p>
-<p>In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor
-Hiram A. Prout of St. Louis came somehow
-into contact with a representative of the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_120">120</span>
-American Fur Company, which ran substantial
-trapping operations all up the wide Missouri
-and its tributaries. How this meeting
-came about is lost to record, but we do know
-that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a
-souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands
-of Dakota&mdash;a fragment of the lower jaw
-of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be quarried
-out of the region and used for scientific
-purposes.</p>
-<p>In that same year a second Badlands fossil
-turned up, this one a well-preserved head of an
-ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the
-great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true
-academic ardor both of these gentlemen, Leidy
-and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly
-print, describing in learned journals the
-nature of their trophies. Enjoying the slender
-circulation of academic publication, the essays
-which described these fossil wonders eventually
-found their way into the offices of the government&rsquo;s
-geological survey, which acted quickly
-to dispatch an expedition to the overlooked
-region of their origin.</p>
-<p>That first exploring party, the David Owen
-Survey, went into the field in 1849. A prominent
-scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached
-to the group, and from his pen we have
-<span class="pb" id="Page_121">121</span>
-several sketches of this pioneer adventure into
-the empty wastelands. If these drawings look
-more like studies of Dante&rsquo;s Inferno than like
-the breath-taking Badlands as they really are,
-it must be remembered that such geological
-formations had never before been visited by
-the members of that party, and, being completely
-alien to the America of their knowledge,
-impressed them every bit as a visit to the
-moon might have done.</p>
-<p>The Owens party was merely the vanguard
-of the great army of brave men and women
-who have ever since made their dangerous ways
-into the remotest distances of the mountain
-and desert West, seeking neither riches of gold
-nor riches of land, but only more minute bits
-of the knowledge of the world of our past.
-Archeologists, geologists, and paleontologists
-from universities and learned societies the
-world over have spent liberally of their time,
-energies, and personal safety to scout out the
-secrets of mankind&rsquo;s past in such remote corners
-of the earth as the Badlands. Year after
-year additional expeditions, both governmental
-and privately organized, made their way into
-this particular area, seeking out the fossil remains
-which turned up in great numbers.</p>
-<p>V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological
-<span class="pb" id="Page_122">122</span>
-Survey was one of the most diligent of the
-early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands
-in 1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying
-on detailed and exhaustive studies and eventually
-unraveling the story of the region&rsquo;s
-major geologic features.</p>
-<p>As Hayden&rsquo;s reports became more and more
-widely circulated, various universities found
-projects of specific interest in one or another
-phase of the work of uncovering fossil beds;
-and from year to year Yale, Princeton, Amherst,
-the universities of South Dakota and
-Nebraska, and other institutions sent groups
-into the Badlands for summer work. Gradually,
-as these several groups exchanged information
-and reports of progress, it became
-possible for their scientists to trace back,
-through the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals,
-the very processes of the evolution of
-many entire families in the animal kingdom.
-Not only are the fossil beds of the Badlands
-as richly stocked with remains as any such bed
-in the world, but in a great many instances
-entire groups of three, four, and five whole
-skeletons have been found, making it possible
-for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly
-the animals as they existed and to set up
-models of the terrain at various intervals
-<span class="pb" id="Page_123">123</span>
-throughout its entire sixty-million-year history.</p>
-<p>Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as
-view-worthy section of the Badlands is Sheep
-Mountain, located at the far west end of the
-Monument. Down from the summit runs a
-great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon,
-named for the fact that the South Dakota
-State School of Mines at Rapid City long ago
-chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological
-research. Under the guidance of
-famed Dr. Cleophas O&rsquo;Harra, for many years
-president of that institution, groups of Mines
-students went on extended annual encampments
-on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among
-other rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric
-midget horse, the saber-toothed tiger, and camels.
-It was this last discovery that lent considerable
-support to the concept, conjectural at
-the time of Dr. O&rsquo;Harra&rsquo;s discoveries, that a
-land bridge had once connected North America
-and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples
-and animals from the old world into the new.
-School of Mines Canyon, while some distance
-off the main highway leading from Pierre to
-the Black Hills, is by all means worth the time
-required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen
-miles from the town of Scenic.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_124">124</div>
-<p>The Badlands are reached by Highway
-14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming from
-the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take
-route 40 directly to the town of Scenic, forty-seven
-miles distant. From Scenic, in addition
-to connecting with the side trip to Sheep
-Mountain, 40 continues along the north wall
-of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass and
-out the east end of the region, merging at
-Kadoka with Highway 16, or, by means of a
-nine-mile connection, with 14.</p>
-<p>Should the weather be bad and State 40 not
-recommended by local informers, the route is
-out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five
-miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access
-road through the Pinnacles, down into the
-Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar
-Pass, and joining State 40.</p>
-<p>From the east, Highway 16 goes through
-Kadoka, from which town State 40 should be
-taken, leading in through Cedar Pass, and out
-either through Scenic and on to Rapid City, or
-at the Pinnacles, through Wall and back on
-14-16. Coming from Pierre on 14, the tourist
-must leave that highway a few miles beyond
-the town of Philip and make the nine-mile detour
-on 16 to Kadoka, from there going on to
-Cedar Pass as described.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_125">125</div>
-<p>Several railroads serve the Badlands and its
-general region, notably the Chicago &amp; Northwestern,
-the Burlington, and the Chicago,
-Milwaukee, and St. Paul. This last road, the
-&ldquo;Milwaukee,&rdquo; offers the traveler the best view
-of the region, winding up the White River
-Valley the entire sixty-five miles between Kadoka
-and Scenic, and providing the passenger
-with unparalleled if hasty views of some of the
-most rugged and isolated portions of all the
-area.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_126">126</div>
-<h2 id="c7"><span class="small">Bibliography</span></h2>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Allsman, Paul T.</span> <i>Reconnaissance of Gold Mining Districts in
-the Black Hills, South Dakota.</i> U.S. Bureau of Mines, No.
-427. Washington, D. C.: U.S. Dept. of Interior, 1940.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Baldwin, G. P.</span>, editor. <i>The Black Hills Illustrated.</i> Philadelphia:
-Baldwin Syndicate, 1904.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Carpenter, F. R.</span> <i>The Mineral Resources of the Black Hills.</i>
-South Dakota School of Mines Preliminary Report, No. 1.
-Rapid City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1888.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Casey, Robert J.</span> <i>The Black Hills.</i> New York: Bobbs-Merrill
-Co., 1949.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Dick, Everett.</span> <i>Vanguards of the Frontier.</i> New York: D.
-Appleton-Century Co., 1941.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Eloe, Frank.</span> &ldquo;Rushmore Cave,&rdquo; <i>Black Hills Engineer</i>, XXIV
-(December, 1938), 274.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Fenton, C. L.</span> &ldquo;South Dakota&rsquo;s Badlands,&rdquo; <i>Nature Magazine</i>,
-XXIV (August, 1941), 370-74.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Glasscock, C. B.</span> <i>The Big Bonanza.</i> Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill
-Co., 1931.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hans, Fred.</span> <i>The Great Sioux Nation.</i> Chicago: Donahue, 1907.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hayden, F. V.</span> and <span class="sc">Meek, F. B.</span> &ldquo;Remarks on Geology of the
-Black Hills,&rdquo; <i>Academy of Natural Science Proceedings.</i>
-Philadelphia: Academy of Natural Science, 1858, X, 41-59.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hough, Emerson.</span> <i>The Passing of the Frontier.</i> New Haven:
-Yale University Press, 1921.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Kingsbury, G. W.</span> <i>History of Dakota Territory.</i> Chicago: The
-S. J. Clarke Co., 1915.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Lake, Stuart.</span> <i>Wyatt Earp.</i> Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1931.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Mirsky, Jeannette.</span> <i>The Westward Crossings.</i> New York: Alfred
-A. Knopf, 1946.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Newton, Henry.</span> <i>Geology of the Black Hills.</i> Washington,
-D. C.: United States Geographical and Geological Survey,
-1880.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">O&rsquo;Harra, C. C.</span> &ldquo;The Gold Mining Industry of the Black Hills,&rdquo;
-<i>Black Hills Engineer</i>, XIX (January, 1931), 3-9.</p>
-<p class="book">&mdash;&mdash;. <i>The White River Badlands.</i> Department of Geology,
-No. 13. Rapid City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1920.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Rothrach, E. P.</span> <i>A Hydrologic Study of the White River Valley.
-South Dakota Geological Survey Report.</i> Vermillion,
-South Dakota: University of South Dakota, February, 1942.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Todd, James Edward.</span> <i>A Preliminary Report on the Geology of
-South Dakota.</i> South Dakota Geological Survey, No. 1.
-Vermillion: University of South Dakota, 1894.</p>
-<p class="book"><span class="sc">Tullis, E. L.</span> &ldquo;The Geology of the Black Hills,&rdquo; <i>Black Hills
-Engineer</i>, XXV (April, 1939), 26-38.</p>
-<h2><span class="small">Footnotes</span></h2>
-<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>For an account of the history and natural wonders
-of Estes Park, readers are referred to a previous book
-in this series, <i>Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies</i>, by
-Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam.
-</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_2" href="#fr_2">[2]</a>A treasured manuscript journal kept by the author&rsquo;s
-great-uncle, who was for many years curator of the Colorado
-State Historical Society&rsquo;s museum in Denver, reports
-an interview with Calamity Jane some time before
-her death which convinced him that the facts were substantially
-as they are stated here.</div>
-<div class="fncont">On the other hand, Mr. Will G. Robinson, the eminent
-State Historian of South Dakota, reports: &ldquo;On the authority
-of Dr. McGillicuddy, who was a medico at Ft.
-Laramie, and whose original letter I have, I would be
-entirely certain that she was born at Ft. Laramie, of a
-couple by the name of Dalton. Dalton was a soldier,
-was discharged and went out a short distance west to
-LaBonte. Here he was killed by Indians, although his
-wife got back into the fort with one eye gouged out, after
-which she shortly died. Her child got her name&mdash;Calamity&mdash;by
-reason of this disaster. She was not much over
-40 when she died in 1903.&rdquo;</div>
-<div class="fncont">The discrepancy between these two accounts, both
-studiously researched and documented by men whose
-professional careers have been given over to solving puzzles
-of this nature with which western history abounds,
-is typical of the disagreement among well-authenticated
-reports of the birth and early life of this female enigma.</div>
-<div class="fncont">In any event, it is a matter which is still subject to
-a maximum amount of conjecture, and for a much more
-complete account of the variant clues readers are enthusiastically
-referred to Nolie Mumey&rsquo;s <i>Calamity Jane</i>
-(Denver: Privately printed, 1949).
-</div>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_127">127</div>
-<h2 id="c8"><span class="small">Index</span></h2>
-<p class="center"><a class="ab" href="#index_A">A</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_B">B</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_C">C</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_D">D</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_E">E</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_F">F</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_G">G</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_H">H</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_I">I</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_J">J</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_K">K</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_L">L</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_Mc">Mc</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_M">M</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_N">N</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_O">O</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_P">P</a> <span class="ab">Q</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_R">R</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_S">S</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_T">T</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_U">U</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_V">V</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_W">W</a> <span class="ab">X</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_Y">Y</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_Z">Z</a></p>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_A"><b>A</b></dt>
-<dt>Abilene (Kan.), <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></dt>
-<dt>Adams Memorial Museum, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></dt>
-<dt>Alaska, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt>
-<dt>Algonkian Period, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt>
-<dt>American Fur Company, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt>
-<dt>Amherst College, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt>
-<dt>Anchor City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Archean Period, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>-18</dt>
-<dt>Archean sea, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt>
-<dt>Atlantic (Iowa), <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_B"><b>B</b></dt>
-<dt>Badlands, White River, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>-17</dt>
-<dt>Bass, Sam, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>-81, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>-83, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt>
-<dt>Battle Mountain, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Beadle &amp; Adams, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></dt>
-<dt>Beaver Creek, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt>
-<dt>Belle Fourche (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt>
-<dt>Belle Fourche River, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></dt>
-<dt>Belle Fourche Round-up, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt>
-<dt>Big Horn Basin, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt>
-<dt>Big Horn River, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt>
-<dt>Bismarck (S.D.), <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt>
-<dt>Black Bart, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-<dt>Black Hills &amp; Badlands Assn., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></dt>
-<dt>Black Hills Range Days, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt>
-<dt>Black Hills Teachers College, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt>
-<dt>Black Moon (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt>
-<dt>Blackfeet tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Blodgett, Sam, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></dt>
-<dt>Borglum, Gutzon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>-39</dt>
-<dt>Bozeman Trail, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-53</dt>
-<dt>Brule tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></dt>
-<dt>&ldquo;Broken Hand.&rdquo; <i>See</i> Fitzpatrick, Thomas</dt>
-<dt>Buffalo Bill, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt>
-<dt>Burlington Railroad, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_C"><b>C</b></dt>
-<dt>Calamity Jane, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-91, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-11</dt>
-<dt><i>Calamity Jane</i>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-<dt>California, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt>
-<dt>Cambrian Period, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>-20</dt>
-<dt>Cambrian sea, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt>
-<dt>Canyon Springs, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></dt>
-<dt>Carlsbad Caverns, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></dt>
-<dt>Carson, Kit, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></dt>
-<dt>Cathedral Park, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt>
-<dt>Central City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Cheyenne (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>-61, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>-81, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt>
-<dt>Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dt>
-<dt>Cheyenne Indians, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Cheyenne River, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt>
-<dt>Chicago (Ill.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Chicago &amp; Northwestern Railroad, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Clarke, Dick, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt>
-<dt>Colorado, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-33, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></dt>
-<dt>Coolidge, President Calvin, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt>
-<dt>Crazy Horse (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>-67</dt>
-<dt>Cripple Creek (Colo.), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt>
-<dt>Crocker, Charles, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-<dt>Crook, General, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-66, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt>
-<dt>Crystal Cave, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></dt>
-<dt>Custer (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>-11, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>-31, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>-43, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>-71, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></dt>
-<dt>Custer, General George Armstrong, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>-57, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-67, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>Custer State Park, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt>
-<dt>Custer&rsquo;s Last Stand, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_D"><b>D</b></dt>
-<dt>Darrall, Duke, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt>
-<dt>Days of &rsquo;76, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></dt>
-<dt>Dead Man&rsquo;s Hand (poker), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></dt>
-<dt>Deadtree Gulch, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></dt>
-<dt class="pb" id="Page_128">128</dt>
-<dt>Deadwood (S.D.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>-84, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>-6, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>-11</dt>
-<dt>Deadwood City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_76">76</a></dt>
-<dt>Deadwood Dick, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-94</dt>
-<dt>Deadwood Dick, Jr., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></dt>
-<dt>Deadwood Gulch, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt>
-<dt>Denver (Colo.), <a href="#Page_3">3</a>-4, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-<dt>Devonian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt>
-<dt>Dodge, General Grenville, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt>
-<dt>Dodge City (Kan.), <a href="#Page_84">84</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_E"><b>E</b></dt>
-<dt>Earp, Wyatt, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>-86</dt>
-<dt>Egan, Capt. Pat, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt>
-<dt>Estes Park, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></dt>
-<dt>Evans, Fred T., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Evans Hotel, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Evans, John, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_F"><b>F</b></dt>
-<dt>Fair, James, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-<dt>Fellows, Dick, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-<dt>Fitzpatrick, Thomas, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Ellis, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Fetterman, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Laramie, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>-52, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Lincoln, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Pierre, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>Fort Sully, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt>
-<dt>French Creek, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_G"><b>G</b></dt>
-<dt>Gall (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt>
-<dt>Game Lodge, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>-33</dt>
-<dt>Gayville (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Gibbon, General John, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-65</dt>
-<dt>Gold, discovered in the Black Hills, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></dt>
-<dt>Gold Discovery Days, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt>
-<dt>Golden Gate (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Golden Star mine, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt>
-<dt>Golden Terra mine, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt>
-<dt>Gordon party, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></dt>
-<dt>Great Plains, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_H"><b>H</b></dt>
-<dt>Haggin, James Ben Ali, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></dt>
-<dt>Harney Peak, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>-36, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt>
-<dt>Harney-Sanborne Treaty, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt>
-<dt>Hayden, V. F., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></dt>
-<dt>Hays City (Kan.), <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt>
-<dt>Hearst, Senator George, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>-75</dt>
-<dt>Hearst, William Randolph, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></dt>
-<dt>Hickok, Wild Bill, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>-97, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-8</dt>
-<dt>Hinckley&rsquo;s Overland Express, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt>
-<dt>Homestake Mine, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>-76, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></dt>
-<dt>Homestake Mining Co., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt>
-<dt>Hot Springs (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>-9, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_I"><b>I</b></dt>
-<dt>Ice Cave, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>-44</dt>
-<dt>Inkpaduta (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt>
-<dt><i>Inter-Ocean</i>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_J"><b>J</b></dt>
-<dt>Jefferson, President Thomas, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt>
-<dt>Jenney Stockade, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt>
-<dt>Jennings, Dr., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Jewel Cave, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></dt>
-<dt>Jones, Seth, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt>
-<dt>Julesburg (Colo.), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_K"><b>K</b></dt>
-<dt>Kansas, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt>
-<dt>Kansas City (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Kind, Ezra, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_L"><b>L</b></dt>
-<dt>Lake, Agnes, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt>
-<dt>Laramie (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></dt>
-<dt>Last Chance Gulch, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt>
-<dt>Lead (S.D.), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt>
-<dt><i>Legend of Sam Bass</i>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></dt>
-<dt>Leidy, Dr. Joseph, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt>
-<dt>Lincoln, President Abraham, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt>
-<dt>Lincoln Highway, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></dt>
-<dt>Little Big Horn River, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></dt>
-<dt>Luenen (Germany), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_Mc"><b>Mc</b></dt>
-<dt>McCall, Jack, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102</dt>
-<dt>McCanles gang, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></dt>
-<dt>McKay, William T., <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_M"><b>M</b></dt>
-<dt>Manuel, Fred, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>-75</dt>
-<dt>Manuel, Moses, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>-75</dt>
-<dt>Meier, Joseph, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt>
-<dt class="pb" id="Page_129">129</dt>
-<dt>Miles City (Mont.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt>
-<dt>Minneapolis (Minn.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt>
-<dt>Minnekahta Canyon, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Minnesota, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt>
-<dt>Minniconjou tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Mississippian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt>
-<dt>Missouri, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt>
-<dt>Missouri River, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt>
-<dt>Missouri Valley, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt>
-<dt>Mogollon (mountains), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Montana, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt>
-<dt>Mount Coolidge, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></dt>
-<dt>Mount Evans, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt>
-<dt>Mount Moriah Cemetery, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></dt>
-<dt>Mount Rushmore, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41</dt>
-<dt>Mount Washington, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt>
-<dt>Mumey, Nolie, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-<dt>Murietta, Joaquin, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_N"><b>N</b></dt>
-<dt>National Park Service, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></dt>
-<dt>Nebraska, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt>
-<dt>Needles, The, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt>
-<dt>Needles Highway, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-35</dt>
-<dt>Nevada, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></dt>
-<dt>Newcastle (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_43">43</a></dt>
-<dt>Niobrara River, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></dt>
-<dt>North America, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt>
-<dt>North Platte River, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt>
-<dt>Number Ten, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>-100</dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_O"><b>O</b></dt>
-<dt>Oglala tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt>
-<dt>O&rsquo;Harra, Dr. Cleophas, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></dt>
-<dt>Omaha (Neb.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Ordovician Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt>
-<dt>Oregon Trail, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt>
-<dt>Oregon-California Trail, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></dt>
-<dt>Owen Survey, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_P"><b>P</b></dt>
-<dt>Paha Sapa (Indian name for Black Hills), <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt>
-<dt>Paleozoic Era, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt>
-<dt>Passion Play, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt>
-<dt>Pearson, John, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>-72</dt>
-<dt>Pierre (S.D.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt>
-<dt>Pikes Peak, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></dt>
-<dt>Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt>
-<dt>Platte River, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt>
-<dt>Platte River-Oregon Trail, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Platte Valley, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt>
-<dt>Portland-Independence Mine, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt>
-<dt>Powder River Valley, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt>
-<dt>Preacher Smith, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-91, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>-5</dt>
-<dt>Princeton University, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt>
-<dt>Prout, Prof. Hiram, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>-20</dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_R"><b>R</b></dt>
-<dt>Rapid City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>-7, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>-14, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Rawlins (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-<dt>Red Cloud (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_52">52</a>-53</dt>
-<dt>Reno, Major, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-68</dt>
-<dt>Reynolds, Charley, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt>
-<dt>Rhodes, Eugene Manlove, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></dt>
-<dt>Rio Grande Valley, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt>
-<dt>Robinson, Will, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt>
-<dt>Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt>
-<dt>Roosevelt, President Theodore, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt>
-<dt>Rosebud Creek, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt>
-<dt>Ross, H. N., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_S"><b>S</b></dt>
-<dt>St. Joseph (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt>
-<dt>St. Louis (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt>
-<dt>St. Paul (Minn.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>San Arc tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>San Francisco (Calif.), <a href="#Page_74">74</a>-75</dt>
-<dt>Santa Fe Trail, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Santee Sioux, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt>
-<dt>School of Mines Canyon, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></dt>
-<dt>Seventh Cavalry, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt>
-<dt>Sheridan, General Phil, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-57</dt>
-<dt>Sidney (Neb.), <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>Sidney Short Route, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>Silurian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt>
-<dt>Silver Heels, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></dt>
-<dt>Sioux Indians, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt>
-<dt>Sioux War, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></dt>
-<dt>Sitting Bull (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>-67</dt>
-<dt class="pb" id="Page_130">130</dt>
-<dt>Smith, Rev. Henry. <i>See</i> Preacher Smith</dt>
-<dt>South Dakota, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt>
-<dt>Spearfish (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt>
-<dt>Spencer, Joseph, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></dt>
-<dt>Springfield (Mo.), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt>
-<dt>Standing Bear (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt>
-<dt>Stanford, Leland, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt>
-<dt>Sunday Creek, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></dt>
-<dt>Sylvan Lake, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-36, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_T"><b>T</b></dt>
-<dt><i>Ten Nights in a Barroom</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt>
-<dt>Terry, General, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>-64</dt>
-<dt>Teton Sioux, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Texas Rangers, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></dt>
-<dt>Thoen, Louis, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt>
-<dt>Thunderhead Mountain, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41</dt>
-<dt><i>Trial of Jack McCall, The</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt>
-<dt>Triassic Period, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></dt>
-<dt>Two Kettle tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_U"><b>U</b></dt>
-<dt>Union Pacific Railroad, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt>
-<dt>University of Nebraska, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt>
-<dt>University of South Dakota, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt>
-<dt>Unkpapa tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt>
-<dt>Ussher, Archbishop James, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></dt>
-<dt>Utah, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_V"><b>V</b></dt>
-<dt>Vale of Minnekahta, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt>
-<dt>Virginia City (Nev.), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_W"><b>W</b></dt>
-<dt>War Department, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></dt>
-<dt>Washington (D.C.), <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt>
-<dt>Washington, President George, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></dt>
-<dt>Wells Fargo, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>-84</dt>
-<dt>Wheeler, Edward L., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></dt>
-<dt>White, George, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt>
-<dt>White River, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt>
-<dt>White River Badlands. <i>See</i> Badlands</dt>
-<dt>Wild Bill Hickok, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>-97, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-8</dt>
-<dt>Wind Cave, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>-29, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>-44</dt>
-<dt>Wind Cave Park, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></dt>
-<dt>Witwatersrand, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt>
-<dt>Wood Lake, battle of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt>
-<dt>Wright, Frank Lloyd, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></dt>
-<dt>Wyoming, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_Y"><b>Y</b></dt>
-<dt>Yale University, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt>
-<dt>Yankton (S.D.), <a href="#Page_102">102</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<dl class="index">
-<dt class="center" id="index_Z"><b>Z</b></dt>
-<dt>Ziolkowski, Korczak, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt>
-</dl>
-<hr />
-<p><span class="lr">$2.50</span></p>
-<h3 id="c9"><span class="large">THE BLACK HILLS</span>
-<br /><span class="small">MID-CONTINENT RESORT</span></h3>
-<p>From taboo Indian fastness to roaring gold
-camp to modern resort and recreation area&mdash;so
-runs the history of the Black Hills,
-Paha Sapa of the Indians, which are really
-not hills at all but mountains, the highest
-east of the Rockies. Back through geologic
-ages the story extends, to the thunderous
-time when Nature fashioned the intricate
-formations of the Hills and their companion
-geologic marvel, the Badlands.</p>
-<p>Here, in racy and fluent prose, Albert N.
-Williams has brought the full sweep of this
-story to life, from its beginning in the
-mighty geologic upheaval that, before the
-Alps had been formed, thrust the giant spire
-of Harney Peak up through the ancient
-shale, to the present quiet rest of man-made
-Sylvan Lake, where it lies peacefully
-reflecting its great granite shields for the
-delight of the traveler.</p>
-<p>On the way he tells of the discovery of
-gold in this &ldquo;mysterious and brooding dark
-mountain-land&rdquo; just when gold-hungry men
-had decided that the bonanza days were
-gone forever; of the Indian fighting that
-reached its tragic climax at the Little Big
-Horn; of the development of the Homestake,
-one of earth&rsquo;s greatest mines; of the
-hazardous stage-coach journeys on which
-&ldquo;shotgun messengers&rdquo; guarded chests of
-bullion; and, most fascinating of all, of the
-amazing personalities&mdash;Sam Bass and Wyatt
-Earp and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity
-Jane and Preacher Smith&mdash;who inhabited
-the Hills in their gaudiest days or, like
-Deadwood Dick, lived a no less vivid life in
-the pages of dime novels.</p>
-<p>If this were all, <i>The Black Hills</i> would
-be a book for any lover of our country&rsquo;s
-natural glories and thrilling history to pick
-up and be unable to lay down again until he
-had finished it. But other chapters directed
-particularly to the tourist make it also a
-book for the traveler to keep always with
-him and to consult at every point in his
-journey through the Black Hills. All he
-needs to know is here&mdash;the highways to take
-into the Hills, the towns with their historic
-plays and celebrations, the peaks and lakes
-and caves he will find, the sports he may enjoy,
-the places where he may stay. A trip so
-guided cannot fail to be filled with the excitement
-the author himself has found in the
-Black Hills, of which he says that in his
-opinion &ldquo;no other resort area in the United
-States possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions.&rdquo;</p>
-<p class="tb">Albert N. Williams was for many years a
-writer for NBC in New York, and for two
-years Editor-in-Chief of the English features
-section of the Voice of America. He is
-the author of <i>Listening</i>, <i>Rocky Mountain
-Country</i>, <i>The Water and the Power</i>, and
-numerous short fiction pieces in national
-magazines. He is at present Director of Development
-of the University of Denver.</p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="Southern Methodist University Press Logo" width="200" height="224" />
-</div>
-<p class="center"><span class="sc">Southern Methodist University Press
-<br />Dallas 5, Texas</span></p>
-<h2>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</h2>
-<ul>
-<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li>
-<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li>
-<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
-</ul>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by
-Albert Nathaniel Williams
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