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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..21da363 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55088 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55088) diff --git a/old/55088-0.txt b/old/55088-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 38ec7c8..0000000 --- a/old/55088-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3600 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort - American Resort Series No. 4 - -Author: Albert Nathaniel Williams - -Release Date: July 11, 2017 [EBook #55088] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - The Black Hills - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - - - BY Albert N. Williams - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES NO. 4 - - Southern Methodist University Press - 1952 - - COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY - SOUTHERN METHODIST UNIVERSITY PRESS - PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - BY AMERICAN BOOK—STRATFORD PRESS, INC., NEW YORK - - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES - - No. 1: Gatlinburg: Gateway to the Great Smokies, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 2: Taxco: Mexico’s Silver City, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 3: Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies, _by Edwin J. Foscue and - Louis O. Quam_ - No. 4: The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort, _by Albert N. Williams_ - - - For Chris - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -The research on early Black Hills and Badlands history was ably assisted -by Miss June Carothers, whose services were provided the author through -a generous grant-in-aid by the University of Denver’s Bureau of -Humanities and Social Development. - -Miss Ina T. Aulls, Mrs. Alys Freeze, Mrs. Opal Harber, Miss Margery -Bedinger, Mrs. Margaret Simonds, Mrs. Elizabeth Kingston, and Mrs. Clara -Cutright, all of the Denver Public Library, are particularly to be -thanked for placing the resources of that institution at my disposal. - -For assistance in preparing the manuscript, I wish to thank Miss Helen -Kiamos, Miss Edith Goldfarb, and Miss Lillian Helling. - -I am indebted to Bell Photo of Rapid City for the photograph of the -Needles highway; to Ned Perrigoue of Rapid City for that of Sylvan Lake; -to the Denver Public Library Western Collection for those of Calamity -Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Deadwood Gulch in 1881; and to Mr. A. H. -Pankow of the South Dakota State Highway Commission for that of a Black -Hills stream. - -And finally, as always, thanks go to my wife, Ann, for her patient -editorial help. - - Albert N. Williams - - _University of Denver - Denver, Colorado_ - - - Books by Albert N. Williams - - LISTENING - ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUNTRY - THE WATER AND THE POWER - THE BOOK BY MY SIDE - - - - - Contents - - - I The Black Hills: The Forbidden Land 1 - II The Formation of the Black Hills 15 - III The Hills Today 27 - IV History I: Indians and Gold 47 - V History II: Deadwood Days 78 - VI The White River Badlands 115 - Bibliography 126 - Index 127 - - - - - Illustrations - - - Along the Needles Highway _facing page_ 34 - Harney Peak—older by ages than the Rockies 35 - The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial 50 - Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an elevation of 6,250 - feet 51 - Calamity Jane, during her carnival days 82 - Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait 82 - Cheyenne—Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun - messengers 82 - Deadwood Gulch in 1881 83 - Modern Deadwood—seventy years later 83 - One of the Black Hills’ many streams 98 - The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared 99 - - - - - Introduction - - -I have had an opportunity to enjoy one of the most readable accounts of -the Black Hills I have ever come across. It is written to acquaint -traveling America with an area which was long off the beaten path of -tourists, and which has only during the past quarter century been -recognized as a place where people who wish to “Know America First” may -profitably spend some time. - -Mr. Williams has outlined the historical reason why this small -wonderland was so long outside the consciousness of America, and he has -devoted a chapter to telling about the methods of nature in producing -the intricacies of this formation, older by far than the Alps or the -Himalayas. He has made the subject live, and he includes enough expert -terminology to satisfy the reader that he knows whereof he speaks. - -In his chapter on “The Hills Today” Mr. Williams outlines what the -tourist should see, and how to see it. For that chapter alone his book -would be well worth the attention of every prospective sight-seer. He -has two chapters pertaining to the history of the region, the first -speculating on how the whole economic growth of the West might well have -been altered had a confirmed story of “gold in the Black Hills” been -released fifty years before it was spread-eagled on the pages of the -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_. It is an interesting speculation, and he gives it -a pleasing reality. - -Another chapter deals with the lives of some of the characters exploited -and given semi-permanent fame by the old dime novels. Deadwood without -these characters would be just another picturesque town set down in a -mountain valley; with them it becomes one of America’s better-known hot -spots, vying with the Klondike and Leadville. - -Mr. Williams’ last chapter on the Badlands, a neighboring phenomenon, a -place of amazing mystery and strange disorder, serves to depict what -might be termed the undepictable in terms exactly calculated to excite -the reader’s absorbed interest. - - Will G. Robinson - - _South Dakota State Historical Society - Pierre, South Dakota - December 17, 1951_ - - - - - CHAPTER ONE - The Black Hills: - The Forbidden Land - - -The thing to remember is that the Black Hills are not hills at all. They -are mountains, the highest mountains east of the Rockies, with Harney -Peak rising to a height of 7,242 feet above sea level. Inasmuch as the -prairie floor averages, at the four entrances to the Hills, only 3,200 -feet in elevation, these are mountains of considerable stature. - -The title “hills” was by no means given the area by early white -settlers. Indeed, if that majestic domain had not already been named the -Black Hills by the Indians, George Armstrong Custer, who in 1874 made -the first full-scale exploration of the region, would no doubt have -dignified it with a more appropriate and properly descriptive name—the -Sioux or the Dakota Mountains, in all probability. - -From time beyond remembrance, however, the region had been known to the -Indians as Paha Sapa, exactly to be translated as “Black Hills,” and -very properly that name was accepted by government geographers. The use -of the word “black” possibly fulfilled several functions, for not only -do these massive peaks appear decidedly black when seen against the -horizon across distances as great as a hundred miles, but they were, to -the superstitious braves of the Teton Sioux, the abode of the Thunders -and studiously to be avoided. - -This taboo fastness was one of the last regions in the great American -West to be explored and settled. For one reason, it enjoyed an isolation -from the centers of development that served to discourage any but the -most hardy of explorers. Lying in the extreme western end of present-day -South Dakota, the Black Hills were two hundred miles west of the -settlements around Pierre, on the Missouri River, and two hundred miles -north of the towns along the North Platte, the valley of the -Oregon-California Trail. The most important reason, though, for its -belated opening was that gold was not discovered in the Black Hills -until 1874, and it was the discovery of gold in various sections which -more than any other single set of circumstances dictated the pattern of -the development of the trans-Mississippi West. - -Even today this fascinating region remains nearly the most remote of all -America’s resort and recreation areas. The Grand Canyon lies but an -hour’s drive from a major east-west transcontinental highway. Estes -Park,[1] in the Rockies, is only seventy miles from the city of Denver. -Glacier Park is easily served by the Great Northern Railroad on its -overland run, and Yellowstone enjoys direct service by three railroads. -But the Black Hills lie beyond the privileges of railroad stopovers, and -in order to visit them the tourist has no choice but to plan a vacation -trip for the sake of the Hills themselves and not as a side venture from -any of the traditional tours of the West. The Hills are worth the -effort. - -The Black Hills occupy a rectangular realm which is roughly one hundred -miles long, north to south, and fifty miles across its east-west axis. -The White River Badlands, which are customarily visited on any Black -Hills trip, form a depression in the high prairies some forty miles long -and fifteen miles across the widest part. This stark and empty waste is -to be found some seventy-five miles east of the Black Hills, or, more -precisely, east of Rapid on U.S. Highway 14-16. - -There are five major access routes to the land of Paha Sapa. From the -west, which is to say from Yellowstone Park, five hundred miles distant, -the Hills can be reached by U.S. Highways 14 and 16. These routes come -in together across the high plains of northern Wyoming, and separate a -few hours’ drive from the South Dakota border, 14 veering to the north -and 16 continuing through the central section of the Hills. - -From the south, U.S. 85 comes up from Denver, four hundred miles -distant, crossing the Lincoln Highway at Cheyenne, and continuing along -the route of the old Cheyenne-Deadwood stage. - -From Omaha and points in the southeast, the Hills are best reached over -U.S. 20 across the top side of Nebraska. Although this route is not a -major east-west route for interstate tourists, it serves a busy -agricultural section and is generally in fine repair. - - [Illustration: The Black Hills; The Badlands] - -From the east U.S. 14 and 16, again, bring the tourist through Pierre, -on the Missouri River, past the Badlands, and into the Hills through -Rapid City. From Minneapolis the distance is just over six hundred -miles, while from Chicago it is very nearly a thousand. - -For those entering the region from the north, U.S. 12 from Miles City, -Montana, is in all probability the best route. - -The gateways to the Black Hills are the towns of Hot Springs in the -south, Rapid City on the eastern edge, Spearfish or Belle Fourche at the -north, and Custer in the west. All these towns offer entirely acceptable -accommodations for a touring family; in fact, no one need drive more -than twenty or thirty miles from any point in the area to find suitable -lodgings at a desired rate. - -Hot Springs, on U.S. 18-85A and State 87, is situated at an altitude of -3,443 feet and has a population of approximately five thousand. It is -the one sector of the Black Hills that does not owe its original -development to the gold rush of the seventies, but was sought out from -the earliest days for its natural thermal springs. - -The town is located in a large bowl of the southern hills known as the -Vale of Minnekahta, from the Sioux name for “warm waters.” Situated as -it is on the rim of the Hills region, it was not included in the general -taboo that cloaked the rest of Paha Sapa to the north; and for nearly a -century before its discovery by the white man in 1875, it was a favored -health resort of the Indians. As a matter of fact, Battle Mountain, -which overlooks the town, takes its name from a legendary war between -the Sioux and the Cheyenne for the exclusive privileges of the hot -baths. - -Not long after the discovery of the springs a syndicate of investors who -had come into the Hills from Iowa bought the ranch claims that had been -taken out in the Minnekahta Canyon, and sought to develop the region as -a spa. This was in the late eighties when salubrious waters were in high -fashion as a cure for arthritis and other joint and muscular disorders -of various degrees of complexity. Colonel Fred T. Evans, who had made a -fortune operating a bull-team freight line from Fort Pierre to Rapid -City, built an elaborate resort, the Evans Hotel, which even today is -imposing in its last-century splendor; and with the arrival in 1890 and -1891 of two railroads, the Chicago and Northwestern and the Burlington, -wealthy cure-seekers from all over the United States made it their habit -to spend the summer months in this pleasant town. - - [Illustration: Highways leading into the Black Hills.] - -Healing waters have long since gone out of vogue as a form of -recreation, and although several clinics still treat a modest number of -visitors for one indisposition or another, the town of Hot Springs has -ceased to be a tourist center of any consequence. Also, the fact that -the Springs are located a considerable distance south of U.S. 16, the -main east-west route through the Hills, has contributed to the -increasing isolation which this town enjoys, drowsily seeing to the -wants of the occasional visitor who strays into Paha Sapa from the south -along U.S. 85. But do not mistake it, it is a pleasant town to stop in, -with excellent motor courts and a good selection of restaurants. - -The town of Custer, a scant fifteen miles from the Wyoming border on -U.S. 16, is little more today than a tourist stopover. It is almost two -thousand feet higher than Hot Springs, at an altitude of 5,301 feet, and -contains, according to the latest estimates, nearly two thousand -residents. - -As the tourist enters the town he will immediately be amazed by the wide -main street; but if he ponders for a moment the problems of turning a -freight wagon behind sixteen oxen, the reason will become clear. Custer, -the western gateway to the Hills, was, until the coming of the -railroads, a major way station on the busy Cheyenne-Deadwood stage and -freight route; and for fifteen years the great bull wagons teamed into -this busy center where, in most cases, the goods were unloaded and -trans-shipped by lighter wagons into the various mining centers -throughout the northern and central Hills. - -Custer, the oldest of the white man’s settlements in Paha Sapa, was -founded in 1875 by gold-seekers who flocked into the territory following -the reports of yellow metal sent back by George Custer after his -exploratory campaign of 1874. In the first spring and summer of its -existence more than five thousand miners swarmed into the region to pan -gold. This invasion was a violation of the government’s treaty with the -Sioux, and the military forced the argonauts to leave. - -By 1876 the Indian problem had come to a head with the defeat of General -Custer on the Little Big Horn in eastern Montana; and as one phase of -retaliation the federal government redrafted the Sioux treaty, allowing -American citizens to enter the Black Hills, until this time reserved for -the Indians. Although for some time the tribal leaders could not be -persuaded to sign the revised agreement, the restrictions on settlers -were removed, and back into the Hills rushed the prospectors—this time -to the new strikes in Deadwood Gulch, in the north. - -By the middle of 1877 Custer, where gold had originally been found, had -a population of a mere three hundred souls, all of them concerned -primarily with the operation of the stage stations and hostels. True, a -few grizzled placer miners still worked the streams near by, and do to -this day; but hard rock mining in Deadwood was the new order of affairs. - -The visitor to this section of the Hills today will find it pleasant to -stay the night in any one of a wide choice of tourist courts and other -reasonable billets, and he may see much of historical interest within a -few miles’ drive of Custer. A settler’s stockade, reconstructed to the -original model of 1874, is a remarkable site to visit, and the Jewel -Cave is best reached from this point. For sheer color and pageantry the -annual celebration of Gold Discovery Days, which is held at Custer late -in July—near the date of the discovery of gold, July 27—is an affair not -to be missed during a Black Hills vacation at that time of year. - -The town of Spearfish is the point of entrance to the region on U.S. 14, -or, coming in from the north, on U.S. 85. This tidy metropolis, called -the Queen City of the Black Hills, never knew the heady history that -marked the early days of Custer, of Deadwood, of Rapid City, or even of -fashionable Hot Springs. Lying outside the magnificent natural bowl of -mineral deposits, Spearfish was founded and exists today for the simple -purpose of supplying the inner Hills with food and produce. It has a -population of between three and four thousand people, most of whose -energies are devoted to agriculture and livestock. - -Spearfish has, however, carved for itself a fame and renown even larger, -in many quarters, than that enjoyed by the gold rush towns of gustier -memories. It is the home of the Black Hills Passion Play. - -This beautiful and stirring performance, which is given in a large -amphitheater on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings throughout the -summers, is a resurrection in an American atmosphere of the -centuries-old Passion of Luenen, in Germany. The man who plays the -Christus, an inherited responsibility through many generations, is Josef -Meier, who fled from Europe in 1932. For six years, with a reassembled -cast, he toured the United States, performing a much trimmed-down -version of the historic morality on college campuses, in civic -auditoriums, and at summer encampments. It was at such a performance at -the Black Hills Teachers College that the citizens of Spearfish were -inspired to offer the touring company a permanent home. Meier and his -group eagerly accepted the offer, and the town constructed an outdoor -theater seating eight thousand people. Now, each winter the Passion Play -continues its tour of the United States, but all during July and August -it remains in residence, acting its moving and majestic pageant to -constantly packed houses. - -The eastern gateway to the Hills is Rapid City, a metropolis of thirty -thousand people which lies on the level prairie just to the east of the -final ring of foothills. Founded, like Spearfish, not as a mining center -but to serve the near-by gold regions, Rapid City has developed a maze -of industrial and commercial enterprises. Shipping, of course, has been -a basic form of commerce from the earliest days, with the two most -heavily traveled trails into the Black Hills, that from Fort Pierre and -that from Sidney, Nebraska, on the Union Pacific, entering the gold area -at Rapid City. Lumbering, manufacture, banking, and livestock quickly -became prominent as the gold fever subsided and the more permanent -settlers began coming into the region to take up the rich cattle and -farming lands in western South Dakota. A final guarantee that Rapid City -will continue to flourish may be seen in the selection by the Air Force -of the high, level prairie land just ten miles to the east of the city -as the nation’s major mid-continent bomber base. - -Rapid City is served by U.S. Highway 14-16, and South Dakota state -highways 40 and 79. Two railroads and a major airline assist in handling -the heavy summer tourist travel, and from Rapid City practically every -point of interest in the Black Hills can be reached by car within three -hours. - - - - - CHAPTER TWO - The Formation of the Black Hills - - -One of the most rewarding features of a visit to the Black Hills is the -opportunity for the average individual, who has no technical training, -to see with his own eyes a museum of the earth’s ages and a living -sample of practically every one of the many aeons of the planet’s -history. - -The Hills, which is to say the rock substances of the region, are older -by hundreds of millions of years than the stone out-juttings of the -Rocky Mountains. Layer after layer of slates and schists from the very -foundations of this globe lie visibly exposed as the end result of a -doming of the region, a vast blistering, as it were, which raised the -entire structure, layer upon layer, several thousand feet in the air. -Following this doming process, a vigorous program of erosion commenced. -Stratum by stratum the winds and rains cut across this huge blister in a -horizontal plane, eventually laying the core open at the height above -sea level at which we find the Black Hills today. From that core, -extending in every direction in the general form of a circle, the -various strata which once lay so smoothly one upon another have been -laid open as one might slice off the top of an orange. - - [Illustration: The Doming of the Black Hills - - Rock Strata being shifted into a dome at the time of the great - continental uplift. - - The forces of erosion—wind and water—have levelled the dome and - opened the seams to view.] - -In order to get an even clearer picture of how this amazing phenomenon -came about through the aeons, let us fold back the ages to the very -birth of this planet. - -For centuries men have attempted to determine the earth’s exact age, but -except for the famed Archbishop James Ussher of Ireland, who gravely -calculated that the earth was formed at precisely nine o’clock on the -morning of the twelfth of October in the year 4004 B.C., no scientist -has been able to come closer than a few million years in the figures. -Through a number of trustworthy measurements, however—including, in -recent years, the examination of the deterioration of radioactive -elements in rocks—geologists have agreed that the oldest known -ingredients of the earth’s crust have been in existence at least two -billion years, and, according to some very recent calculations, possibly -as long as three and a half billion. - -In what is known as the Archean period, the most ancient of which we -have any geological knowledge, a vast sea covered much of North America, -bounded by certain masses of land, the extent of which has never been -discovered. From this land mass remnants of mud and sand were broken -away by waves and deposited on the floor of the sea. Eventually, under -the pressure of its own weight, this material formed shales and -sandstones to an undetermined depth—many thousands of feet. Those -particular sandstones and shales underlie the entire Black Hills area -and extend in nearly every direction for a considerable distance, -suggesting perhaps that the area of the Hills was at one time the bottom -of this watery bowl. - -The Archean period came to an end some five hundred million years ago. -By then the seas had withdrawn, and the new land formations which had -lain under the early ocean merged with the vestiges of the first land -mass. But this metamorphosis, which can be described in such calm -fashion, was by no means a gentle affair. It took place largely as the -result of a shifting and rising of certain ocean bottom areas, among -which was the region where we now find the Black Hills. - -At the time of this uplift, and possibly contributing to it, there was a -tremendous disturbance in the lower regions of the earth which sent -great streams of molten matter up into the several-mile-thick layer of -shale, through which it poured toward the surface, breaking through in -monolithic forms and hardening into granite. The New Mexico writer, -Eugene Manlove Rhodes, describing a similar geologic phenomenon in the -valley of the Rio Grande, has called it “like sticking a knife through a -tambourine,” and indeed it was. Harney Peak, in Custer State Park, is -just such a granite finger pointing up through the original shales -toward the sky. - -When this disturbance took place the granite juttings did not rise above -the surrounding landscape as they now do. In many cases they did not -even reach the surface of the shale beds, but ceased their flow and -hardened short of the crust of the earth, as it was then to be found. -When, however, the region was domed, many millions of years later, the -subsequent weathering of the huge blister did not attack these granite -formations with anywhere near the vigor with which the softer sandstones -and limestones were eroded. What actually occurred, then, was a peeling -away of the softer rocks, leaving the granite formations near their -original sizes, but at last above the ground level in the form of peaks, -needles, and spires. - -But we have gotten ahead of our story. Following the Algonkian period, -when the molten matter was injected into the layers of shale, there came -what is known as the Cambrian period. The Cambrian occupied the first -80,000,000 years of the Paleozoic era, which in itself covered the -entire period from 510,000,000 to 180,000,000 years ago. - -During the Cambrian period the land subsided again, perhaps because of -the weight of the uplifted sedimentary formations. During this -subsidence the waters once again covered vast portions of North America, -and additional muds and slimes were deposited on the bottom. It was at -this period that life first appeared on the earth, in the form of simple -marine organisms which have left fossil remains. These deposits made in -the Cambrian period can be seen in outcroppings all through the region, -although they are most notably found in the area about Deadwood. Because -of their structure they indicate to the geologist that the shoreline of -the ancient Cambrian sea was near at hand, and also that this covering -of water was by no means as extensive or as deep as the earlier Archean -sea. - -The deposits of sand and mud, which were eventually pressed into stone, -occasionally reach a depth of as much as five hundred feet, although -they were laid down extremely slowly, as eddying mud is laid at the -bottom of a pond. In the locality of Deadwood they contained a rich -infiltration of gold, and the entire conglomeration was thoroughly -intermixed with a vast outcropping of much older rock—this effect -undoubtedly having taken place later, during the great continental -uplift, when the final doming occurred. - - - THE AGES OF EARTH - - MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO (Pre-Cambrian Existence back to 3½ Billions - of years) - - PALEOZOIC ERA - 510 - Cambrian Period—First fossils deposited. - Marine life. - 430> - Ordovician Period—Invertebrates increase - greatly. - 350> - Silurian Period—Coral reefs formed. First - evidence of land life. - 310> - Devonian Period—First forests. First - amphibians. - 250> - Mississippian, Pennsylvanian, and Permian - Periods.—Reptiles and insects appear. - Continental uplift at end of this period. - 180 - MESOZOIC ERA - Triassic Period—Small Dinosaurs. First - mammals. - 150> - Jurassic Period—Dinosaurs and marine - reptiles dominant. - 125> - Cretaceous Period—Dinosaurs reach zenith of - development then disappear. Small mammals. - Flowering plants and development of hardwood - forests. - 60 - CENOZOIC ERA & PERIOD - Paleocene Epoch—Archaic mammals. - 50> - Eocene Epoch—Modern mammals appear. - 35> - Oligocene Epoch—Great apes appear. - 25> - Miocene Epoch—Grazing types of mammals - appear. - 10> - Pliocene Epoch—Man appears. - 0 - -The next period of the earth’s age—the Ordovician period, which extended -from 430,000,000 to 350,000,000 years ago—has left its mark just as -visibly upon the Black Hills. It was during this period that the many -species of invertebrate marine life reached a zenith of development, and -that a bed of sediment was laid down and later compressed to a pinkish -limestone. The fact that this Ordovician bed is less than forty feet -thick indicates that the land mass from which the muds and sands were -drawn was very low, and that the Cambrian sea was relatively shallow, -entertaining only minor erosive currents along its shores. - -The next two ages, the Silurian and the Devonian, which brought our -earth down to a scant 250,000,000 years ago, did not see the deposit of -any silting in the Black Hills region. No doubt the waters which covered -the locality dried up gradually. The Mississippian period, however, was -a time of great depositional activity. A layer of limestone between five -and six hundred feet thick was set down over the entire section. In -later periods this limestone underwent much decay and water erosion, -which formed the amazing caverns for which the Black Hills are known. -Wind Cave, now the site of a National Park, Crystal Cave, and Jewel Cave -are the best-known tourist attractions among the many, although there -are a number of lesser ones, some even today only partially explored. - -The chemical activity which accomplished this erosion was caused by the -seeping of rain water down through later accumulations of sediment on -top of the layer of limestone. As it seeped through rotting vegetation -and timber the water collected carbonic acid gases which, when it -reached the level of the Mississippian limestone, eroded the structure -and ate out huge hollows in it. - -The thickness of the Mississippian deposit indicated that at this time -the earth had again sunk beneath the waters to a considerable depth. The -shallow sea which had not offered sediment to a greater depth than a few -feet was replaced by active currents which carried heavier sedimentary -materials from great distances, laying them down on the floor of the sea -in various strata to a depth of several hundred feet. Finally, after an -unknown number of millions of years, but perhaps during the Triassic -period, the land again rose above the level of the waters. A red shale -suggests a time of great aridity when the region must have been a near -desert, and certain discernible patterns in the shales suggest periods -of rapid evaporation and a consequent change in chemical activity. - -Finally the land subsided again, for the last time to date. At times -salt water covered the region, and at other times fresh water left its -chemical mark. At some levels in this last layer of sedimentary rocks an -abundance of fossils can be found, indicating deep water, and at others -ripple-marked rock indicates very shallow water. It remains a period of -great mystery. How long this final submersion continued we do not know; -but in all probability it lasted nearly a hundred million years, and -then was terminated by the vast upending of North America which created -the Rocky Mountains. This upheaval did not take place suddenly, as a -volcanic eruption or a series of earthquakes, but apparently commenced -about sixty million years ago and lasted, as a continuous series of -shiftings and slow upheavals, for about twenty million years. - -At the beginning of this mighty uplifting the region of the Black Hills -was covered by the various layers of sedimentary deposits to a depth of -nearly two miles. Slowly this rectangular area was lifted as a dome over -the surrounding prairies. We do not know how high above the level lands -this dome reached, but we do know that several thousand feet of later -deposits overcapped the granite upthrusts which were planted in the -fundamental shales. Those granite fingers, which have now been exposed -to view, stand from five hundred to four thousand feet above the plains, -and thus the original dome may be assumed to have extended from eight to -ten thousand feet above our present-day sea level. - -Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first started, as soon as the -first land of the Black Hills was elevated above the great sea, the -forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain worked their terrifying -magic on the slowly rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks and -the loose dirt and leaving only the granite outcroppings. Down from the -sides of the great dome poured the waters of melting snows, gushing -springs, and torrential rainfalls, digging out rivers, canyons, and the -deep and narrow cuts which characterize this beautiful region. Slowly -the land continued to rise and the oceans to fall until at last an -equilibrium was reached, a static state of affairs which remained much -the same until our own period, when the base of the dome was at last -revealed, with the surrounding lands drifting away in every direction on -a gentle incline. - -From that day the structure of the Black Hills has changed but little. -The high winds off the Dakota plains and the annual spring run-off and -seasonal rains cut their minute etchings in the landscape; but Nature’s -greatest effort in the Black Hills part of the world has, it seems, been -made. It must be remembered, though, that Nature has had other -responsibilities. At the time of the doming of the Black Hills the Alps -had not yet been formed, nor the Pyrenees, nor the Caucasus. And on the -site of the mountains we know today as the sky-piercing Himalayas, the -swampy waters still moldered. - - - - - CHAPTER THREE - The Hills Today - - -It is this writer’s personal opinion that no other resort area in the -United States possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions as the -Black Hills. This profusion of happy endowments can be separated into -three categories, each of which deserves individual study and enjoyment. -Two of these, the region’s folklore and its memories of the gold rush, -belong to the amazing history of the Hills. But of course the visible -landscape and the natural wonders of the area are the primary objects of -the tourist’s visits, and it is proper that they be considered -immediately and in detail. - - - _Wind Cave_ - -The Wind Cave lies ten miles north of Hot Springs on U.S. 85A. The -cavern is the focal point of interest in its own National Park, which -takes in forty square miles. Nearly half of this park is enclosed with a -high fence, behind which one of the last great bison herds roams -contentedly. Protected antelope, elk, and deer also enjoy this game -preserve. - -The cavern was discovered, according to legend, by a cowboy who heard a -continued low whistling noise in the weeds and, investigating, found air -rushing from a ten-inch hole near the present entrance to the cave. And -indeed it is this very phenomenon that makes Wind Cave different from -other notable caverns, such as the one at Carlsbad. Even on the stillest -of days a steady current of air can be felt rushing in or out of the -cave’s opening—into the earth if the barometer is rising, and out of the -ground if the pressure is falling. - -The National Park Service conducts tours of the cave, the complete -excursion lasting some two hours. Fortunately, although the visitor -descends to a great depth as he searches out the various chambers on the -route, the tour ends at an elevator which whisks him swiftly to the -surface near the starting point. - -The entire cavern is a little more than ten miles long, although there -are portions of it which have not even yet been explored so that their -size may be known with accuracy. It is not graced with the growths of -stalactites and stalagmites normally to be found in limestone -formations, but nature has compensated for that lack by fashioning a -peculiar box-work which looks for all the world as if the cavern had -been subjected to an interminable frosting process. These beautiful -fretwork deposits, which are not to be found in any other cave, are the -result of a strange chemical process that took place in the limestone -stratum where Wind Cave is located. Surface water seeping into the stone -became charged with carbon dioxide gas from the decaying organic matter -through which it passed. This gentle acid then dissolved the limestone -only to redeposit it in cracks and crevices around other limestone -fragments. The precipitated limestone was of a different chemical -composition and resisted later onslaughts by the eroding acids—which, -however, did eat away the fragments around which the precipitate had -formed, leaving the maze of hollow crystalline formations that can be -seen in the various chambers of the cavern. - -The National Park, being relatively small, is not equipped with -overnight facilities; but this does not matter, for the town of Hot -Springs is but twenty minutes’ drive from the park, and the town of -Custer is only twenty miles away. There are, however, camping grounds in -the park, and the Park Service operates a lunchroom at the entrance to -the cave. - - - _Custer State Park_ - -Custer State Park is located almost in the center of the Black Hills. -Containing nearly one hundred and fifty thousand acres, it is one of the -largest state parks in America. It was originally set aside as a state -game refuge, and it was not until the advent of summer touring as a -national pastime that the state of South Dakota purchased additional -private lands which contained scenic wonders, incorporating all of them -into the one large area. - -Today the park is the center of all tourist activity in the region. A -number of excellent lodges, camp grounds, and tourist courts along every -road make it particularly easy for the tourist to stop at will for a day -or more to enjoy the various recreational facilities as his fancy -dictates. In every respect the park is effectively administered: food -and lodging prices are held to a reasonable figure, the cleanliness of -the buildings and grounds is regularly inspected, and the landscape is -protected from commercial exploitation. - -The center of the park’s activities is the Game Lodge, a monstrous -Victorian hotel built in 1919 and operated under a private lease. Close -by the Game Lodge are cabins, stores, eating establishments, the park -zoo, a museum, and the offices of the state park officials. The Lodge, -those with a flair for nostalgia will recall, achieved international -renown in 1927 when President Coolidge made it the summer White House. -It lies on US. 16, thirty-two miles from Rapid City and seventeen miles -from the town of Custer. - -It behooves the writer to mention at this point that the museum -connected with the Game Lodge is by no means the drab and dusty sort of -collection of impedimenta associated with the vicinity that is so often -found in museums at scenic sites. Indeed, this fine attraction is an -assemblage of geological, paleontological, and historical items which -trace with rare discernment the whole history of the Hills through the -ages, and up to our own day. The visitor who fails to pass an hour in -this exciting spot will have missed the heart of the Hills entirely. - - - _Harney Peak_ - -Harney Peak stands like a sentinel in Custer Park. The highest point in -the Black Hills, it rises to an altitude of 7,242 feet, 4,000 feet above -the prairie floor outside the Hills. Higher by 900 feet than Mount -Washington in New Hampshire, it is the highest mountain east of the -Rockies. - -High as it is, Harney Peak is by no means the typical mountain which -tourists come to expect after a trip through Colorado, for example, or -western Wyoming. It is older by ages than the precipitous and craggy -Rockies, and the winds and waters have worked their slow erosion on it, -cutting away what high shelves and escarpments might originally have -existed and leaving it, except at the top, a gentle and easy mountain -that may be climbed over a trail which will scarcely tax the laziest -tourist. - -On the top of the peak will be found the core of granite that originally -broke through the Archean shales. This granite, subject to the -mechanical ravages of wind, rain, and frost, is rugged and coarse, a -steep dome covered with a thick lichen. From this eminence the entire -Black Hills area can be seen, rolling away in every direction—great -waves of pinnacle and mountain, gradually subsiding and disappearing in -the haze of distance which covers the prairies. Especially striking from -this spot is the view of Cathedral Park, with its hundreds of -needle-like spires and organ pipes, and, sheltered in a quiet recess, -that amazing phenomenon, Sylvan Lake. - - - _The Needles_ - -The Needles Highway, a fourteen-mile stretch of road, branches off U.S. -16 about five miles west of the Game Lodge. At the time of its -construction in 1920-21 it was regarded as an engineering marvel, -although later exploits of American highway builders, such as the road -to the top of fourteen-thousand-foot Mount Evans in Colorado, have since -far overshadowed this accomplishment. - -The road winds and curves in an interminable pattern, finding its way, -by trial and error it seems, among the great granite spires that give -the region its name. These “needles,” through the last of which the -highway actually plunges in a tunnel, are the remains of a great granite -plateau which once covered that entire portion of the Black Hills. -Contrary to popular opinion, the rocks are not outthrusts, the result of -some ancient upheaval, but the last thin vestiges of this once-solid -plateau. The age-old process of erosion has carved them into the shapes -they now have; and the inquiring visitor can see the process still at -work, for upon close inspection this granite is found to be not the -impregnable stone it appears, but rock in a late stage of -disintegration. Rot is the word which actually describes this formation, -and in many spots whole chunks can be picked from the side of a spire by -hand. It was, as a matter of fact, this situation which made the -construction of the Needles Highway possible. Had the granite been -solid, the task of cutting the Needles and Iron Creek tunnels would have -been so expensive as to prohibit the entire undertaking. - - - _Sylvan Lake_ - -Not all of the scenery in the Black Hills was created by Nature. Sylvan -Lake, in many respects the most beautiful corner of the region, was made -entirely by hand. - -It was near the turn of the century when two hunters, Dr. Jennings of -Hot Springs and Joseph Spencer of Chicago, got the intriguing idea of -having an additional tourist attraction in the vicinity of Harney Peak—a -lake. - - [Illustration: Along the Needles Highway] - - [Illustration: Harney Peak older by ages than the Rockies] - -Some lakes are difficult to construct, while some are relatively easy. -Sylvan belongs in the latter category. The two imaginative gentlemen -merely bought a small tract of land between two great granite shields -and built a dam seventy-five feet high between the boulders. The waters -of Sunday Creek, which flowed to their dam, together with local springs, -at last contrived to fill the area back of the dam. Today this loveliest -of lakes basks peacefully high above the world at an elevation of 6,250 -feet, actually on top of a ridge, at the north terminal of the Needles -Highway. - -It is easy for any lover of water scenes to become enthusiastic as he -describes the colorations of his favorite lake, so I shall merely state -that Sylvan never looks the same in two consecutive moments. Not having -the symmetry of natural lakes or the tremendous depths of glacial pools, -this body of water plays the role of mirror to the fabulous rock shapes -which surround it; and indeed it is a source of never-ending delight to -watch the cloud and sun patterns as they wrestle with the shadows of the -rocks on its surface. - -For many years Sylvan Lake and its environs were operated privately. A -hotel catered to the tourists who bounced over the privately built road -in buggies and horse-drawn busses. In 1919 the property was purchased by -the state of South Dakota, and since that time it has been operated as a -public facility. When the original hotel burned, in the thirties, the -state built with funds procured from the federal government a -comfortable and modern hostelry, the most amazing feature of which is -the expansive dining room with picture windows looking out over the lake -to Harney Peak. - -The hotel is small, as resort hotels go, containing only fifty rooms, -and the tourist would do well to arrange for accommodations in advance -of his visit. There are, however, a number of cabins operated in -conjunction with the main building, and except at the height of the -season rooms can probably be found in the annexes. Along the lake shore -an excellent restaurant, independent of the hotel, serves the needs of -the traveler who has only a few hours to spend at this stop. - - - _Mount Rushmore_ - -From Sylvan Lake around back of the north side of Harney Peak it is a -drive of but a few miles to the second man-made wonder of the Hills—the -Mount Rushmore Memorial. - -Perhaps no one thing has done so much to make the Black Hills known -throughout the world as this incredible undertaking—the carving in the -natural granite face of a mountain of the faces of our four most revered -presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. -“Teddy” is included for his lasting service to the people of the United -States as the president who saw the Panama Canal project through -Congress and into being. The military and economic values of that -enterprise so deeply impressed the sculptor of this mammoth frieze that -he insisted upon elevating TR into the august company of the other three -great statesmen. - -The whole story of the memorial would fill several volumes, and indeed -has already done so. Briefly, the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, wished to -perpetuate a patriotic motif in stone figures so large that they would -attract visitors from every corner of the country and impress upon them -the glories of the democracy which the four presidents had done so much -to build and sustain. The sculptor’s own words were: “I want, somewhere -in America, on or near the Rockies, the backbone of the continent, a few -feet of stone that carries the likenesses, the dates, and a word or two -of the great things we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high that it -won’t pay to pull it down for lesser purposes.” - -The actual construction work started in 1926, and the formal dedication -was made by President Coolidge in the summer of 1927. Between nine -hundred thousand and a million dollars went into the gigantic task, -including money for supplies, wages, and the sculptor’s own personal -needs during the fifteen years he spent on the project. He died in 1941, -and the work was completed a few months later by his son. - -The immensity of the undertaking can be grasped when the dimensions are -noted. The face of each of the figures, for example, measures sixty feet -from chin to forehead. - -The rough carving was done by dynamite. Borglum, working from a -carefully constructed model, would mark on the sheer sides of the great -mountain the lines where he wanted the stone peeled away. Then a blast -would be set off in the hope that the rock displacement would -approximate the lines marked out, and from that point the work had to be -done by hand. At first, taking lessons from the miners working for him -who had many years of experience in blasting the hard granites of the -region, Borglum was able to reach only within a foot of the final figure -by dynamiting. As he became more proficient in the use of the explosives -he got to the point where his original blasts would shed the stone to a -matter of an inch or less from the final cut surface. The head of -Washington was finished in 1930, that of Jefferson in 1936, that of -Lincoln a year later, and that of Theodore Roosevelt, the final figure, -in 1941. - -There are no tourist facilities at the site of the Memorial. Like every -other place in the Black Hills, however, Rushmore can be reached in a -few minutes’ drive from any one of a number of near-by points where a -tourist might be stopping. Borglum’s studio, situated on a prominence a -few hundred yards from the carvings, gives the best view of the scene -and is open to the public. - - - _Crazy Horse_ - -It is not entirely accurate to refer to the Mount Rushmore Memorial as -_the_ other man-made wonder in the Hills. At the moment it is the only -such marvel outside of Sylvan Lake; but in twenty-five or thirty years -it will have to share that honor with the Crazy Horse Memorial, a statue -carved on top of Thunderhead Mountain, between Harney Peak and the town -of Custer. This gigantic carving, which will be an entire figure and not -a mere bas-relief, will be an equestrian statue of the great Sioux -chief, Crazy Horse, who led his nation during the desperate years -between 1866 and 1877. The chief will be mounted on a prancing steed, -his hair blowing, as if in the wind, behind him. - -The Indians themselves can take the credit for this fabulous idea. Chief -Henry Standing Bear, a resident of the Pine Ridge reservation, is said -to have had his inspiration after a visit to Mount Rushmore. Why not, he -wondered, erect some monument to an outstanding red man, so that when -the last of his people have been assimilated into the white man’s -society, visitors to what was once the heart of the Indian country can -reflect for a moment upon the greatness of that lost race? - -Standing Bear wrote his idea to Korczak Ziolkowski, an energetic and -imaginative sculptor, and suggested that Chief Crazy Horse would make a -fitting symbol of the Indians’ struggle for existence. This was in 1940. - -The sculptor took to the idea, but because of the events of World War II -he was unable to commence work on the project until 1947. Since then he -has been setting off two blasts of dynamite a day, carving away the rock -at the top of Thunderhead. But even yet the first faint outlines of the -eventual statue are only barely discernible. Ziolkowski estimates that -the entire task will consume a quarter of a century, if not more, and -will cost not less than five million dollars. If this figure sounds high -compared with the less than a million spent on Rushmore, perhaps the -measurements will provide an explanation: the horse upon which the chief -will be seated will be four hundred feet from nose to tail, and the -entire work, from pedestal to top, will be more than five hundred feet -in height. - - - _Mount Coolidge_ - -In this same general region lies another prominent Black Hills landmark -which every tourist should take time to visit—Mount Coolidge. With a -height of 6,400 feet, this peak is by no means an outstanding mountain, -being ranked by a good half dozen higher within the Hills. But from its -summit, which can be reached by an auto road leading off U.S. 85A a few -miles to the north of Wind Cave Park, an amazing vista can be seen. To -the east, on a clear day, the White River Badlands loom as a great -valley sixty miles away. To the south one can see across the high -rolling hills all the way into Nebraska, and to the west landmarks in -Wyoming are clearly visible. On the summit a stone lookout tower has -been built for the convenience of visitors. - - - _Jewel Cave and Ice Cave_ - -Since the Black Hills are underbedded so widely by limestone, it is not -surprising to find in them not one but several memorable caverns. There -are, as a matter of fact, a dozen or more well-known large caves; but -outside of Wind Cave, only Jewel Cave has been opened and fully prepared -for public visit. The expense of exploring, lighting, and carving trails -in the others has kept them off the market, so to speak, for in a region -so packed with scenic delights two great caverns are about as much as -the traffic will bear. - -Jewel Cave lies some fourteen miles west of Custer on U.S. 16, almost at -the Wyoming-South Dakota border. It is a small cave, with only two tours -marked out in it, one a mile long and the other two miles. It is noted -for its wealth of colorful crystalline deposits, totally unlike the -delicate filigree work to be found in Wind Cave. - -The cave was discovered by two prospectors, who proceeded to develop -their property for commercial gain. In 1934 they sold the cave and such -of its environs as they owned to the Newcastle, Wyoming, Lions Club and -the Custer Chamber of Commerce. These two organizations sought to -popularize it further as a lure to tourists who would have to travel -through their towns to reach the scene. In 1938 the federal government -took it over and made a national monument of it. - -Not far from Jewel Cave is the famous Ice Cave. This cavern gets its -name from the current of cold air which blows from its mouth, cold and -clammy on even the hottest of summer days. The Ice Cave is not -officially open to the public, and has not even been totally explored. -Forest rangers and Park Service employees have charted some of it and -have searched out certain channels in the strange formation, and from -their meager reports it would seem that if Ice Cave is ever fully opened -it will vie with New Mexico’s Carlsbad in beauty and grandeur. - -For the curious tourist the only possibility at the moment is to take -the lovely off-route trip to the cave’s entrance, a natural arch twenty -feet high and seventy-five feet wide. - -In addition to Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, and Ice Cave, there are a number -of other caverns of varying interest and underground beauty which have -been opened and exploited by private individuals. In many cases these -are but indifferently arranged for public inspection, but can be tracked -down by the visitor by means of the garish signs which too often manage -to clutter the otherwise unblemished scenery. - - - _Just Scenery_ - -The foregoing are only a very few of the scenic wonders of the Black -Hills. Detailed information on the various other scenic features is -easily to be had at any of the hotels and tourist courts in the Hills, -and brochures covering practically every landmark are available gratis, -thanks to the enthusiasm of the local chambers of commerce, the Black -Hills and Badlands Association, and the state of South Dakota. The area -is crisscrossed with good roads, and no matter which route one takes to -his eventual destination, every mile will be marked by breath-taking -views and natural wonders. - -The region, except at the summits of the peaks, lies at an average -altitude of some five thousand feet. Cool nights are thus guaranteed, -regardless of the temperatures by day. The highest mean temperature -ranges, during the six months between April and November, from 60 to 85 -degrees. Light outing clothes are suggested for day wear, and light -wraps are always in order after dark. - -The rainfall during this same six-month period, averaged over fifty -years, amounts to three inches per month; what small showers do occur -take place most usually in an hour or so of the early afternoon, and -refresh rather than hinder the tourist. - -The hillsides are covered with a mass of shrub and tree growth, and an -earnest searcher can find specimens of no less than fifty-two varieties. -Yellow pine, spruce, cedar, ash, aspen, alder, dogwood, and cottonwood -are most in evidence. - -The bird lover will find the Black Hills nothing less than a vast -aviary, more than two hundred species having been seen in the region. -Animal life is almost as widely represented, although the casual visitor -is not likely to come upon a native mountain lion or gray wolf. The -assistance of forest rangers and Park Service employees is available in -locating the habitats of some of the rarer varieties of wildlife. - -As might be expected, the fisherman will find plenty of opportunity to -ply his pole in this region. There are nearly 150 miles of stream and -lake frontage in the Black Hills, and the waters are liberally stocked -by the state hatcheries. In addition to trout, the angler will encounter -pike, pickerel, bluegills, black bass, and perch. - -Finally, there are the annual celebrations and fairs, which are always -of interest to the outsider, for they help dramatize the particular -region where they are held and its historical background. July and -August are the months for these celebrations, and notices of coming -events will be found posted prominently’ along the tourist routes. Four -such outstanding occasions are Black Hills Range Days at Rapid City, -Gold Discovery Days at Custer, the Belle Fourche Round-Up, and the Days -of ’76 at Deadwood. The Deadwood celebration, it might be added, -celebrates not the Revolutionary War, but the discovery of gold in -Deadwood Gulch in 1876. - - - - - CHAPTER FOUR - History I: Indians and Gold - - -Gold, they say, is where you find it. In California in 1848—in Montana -in 1852—in Colorado in 1858—in Arizona, in Nevada: when they finally -found it in the Black Hills in 1874, the Gold Rush West had nearly all -been settled and the bonanza days were forever gone, for all the likely -places had been searched. - -The question posed is an obvious one. With sourdoughs plowing and -digging up the bed of every stream and rivulet in the West from 1849 on, -how did it come about that the Black Hills, lying a considerable -distance closer to home than California and the other gold rush regions, -had kept their glittering secret until so late? - -The truth of the matter is that the mysterious and brooding dark -mountain-land was a good place to hide secrets. Gold had been discovered -there, as a matter of fact, as early as 1834, which was just seven years -after the country’s first gold strike—the 1827 Georgia rush. But -unfortunately those first lucky gold-seekers—there were six of them—did -not live to enjoy their taste of the Black Hills’ incredible wealth. -Fifty-three years later, not far from the town of Spearfish, one Louis -Thoen found a piece of limestone upon which was crudely but legibly -engraved this melancholy message: - - came to these hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra Kind G. W. - Wood T Brown R Kent WM King Indian Crow All ded but me Ezra Kind - Killed by Indians beyond the high hill got our gold june 1834 - -On the back of this somber relic were the blunt words: “Got all gold we -could carry.” - -Yes, there was gold in plenty, but Paha Sapa of the Hills was a jealous -spirit who guarded the forbidden portals with a great vengeance. It is -interesting, though, to speculate upon how the course of western history -might have veered had Ezra Kind made his way out of the bleak region to -report his discovery. Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and most of the Missouri -Valley would have been skipped over in a rush to the prairie West, left -to be filled in and settled later. The upriver ports of the Missouri, -rather than St. Louis, Kansas City, St. Joseph, and Omaha, would have -been the outposts, and there would have been no Santa Fe Trail, no -Platte River—Oregon Trail, but rather a heavily traveled National Road -winding out from St. Paul and from Chicago. Rapid City would have been a -metropolis the size of Denver, and when eventually the Union Pacific was -built it would have been three hundred miles north of its present route. -And the Indians? There would have been a far different story in that -regard, perhaps a much bloodier and more tragic tale. - -But Ezra Kind was killed and his secret slept, and thus we are as we are -today. Actually it was the Indians who kept the Hills so long -forbidden—Indians of the Teton Sioux, the same tribe who put Ezra’s -party to the tomahawk. - -Before the California gold rush life on the Great Plains had proceeded -pretty much on an even keel. The mighty Teton Sioux, all seven tribes of -them—the Oglalas, the Unkpapas, the San Arcs, the Brules, the -Minniconjous, the Blackfeet, and the Two Kettle—roamed the prairies at -will, from the Missouri Valley to the Rocky Mountains. Of course they -had their misadventures with the fur companies, but just as often their -dealings with the Mountain Men were profitable, for the Indians, when in -the mood, scouted, trapped, and hunted, all for the white man’s pay. - -With the great exodus to California, though, the situation took on a -different hue. Immigrants by the hundreds and the thousands poured up -the rolling valley of the Platte, and it was not many months before the -haphazard Indian attacks took on a new strength and design. Long burned -the council fires in the dark nights, and all up and down the great -plains the war raged. To protect the wagon trains the government sent -its shrewdest and most experienced Indian agent, Thomas Fitzpatrick, a -veteran fur trader since 1823, the famed “Broken Hand” of western -legend. Summoning the tribes to Fort Laramie in 1851, Fitzpatrick -managed to subdue them, but only by promising that he would confine the -settlers to specific ranges and would keep them steadfastly out of the -Dakotas and the Black Hills. - -In the meanwhile the eastern tribes, the Santee Sioux, were beginning to -feel the pressure of settlement in the rich Minnesota valleys. In 1862 -they revolted, and the terrible battle of Wood Lake was fought, with the -score of massacred settlers reaching into the high hundreds. The leaders -of this outrage were, of course, apprehended and punished, but whole -tribes fled into the western plains, into the land of the Black Hills, -where they eventually joined forces with their Teton cousins. - - [Illustration: The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial] - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an - altitude of 6,250 feet] - -By 1865 matters had come to a head again, because although the great -Sioux, numbering between thirty and forty thousand, had kept to -themselves, the white man had broken his side of the bargain and was -cutting a new route into the forbidden country. This passage was the -famed Bozeman Trail, which drove north from Fort Laramie, on the Oregon -Trail, directly through the Sioux country to serve the new gold fields -of Montana. - -To protect the wagon trains on the Bozeman the army called upon General -Grenville Dodge, who was later to build the Union Pacific. Dodge, -Commandant of the Department of the Missouri, was an old hand at Indian -warfare. He rushed into Wyoming a full force, four columns of men, who -swiftly brought the angered tribes to heel. - -The immediate result of this engagement was the signing of a halfhearted -and inconclusive treaty at Fort Sully, near Pierre, in October of 1865. -The treaty attempted to settle some old differences of a fundamental -nature, but inasmuch as neither the Oglala nor the Brule were -represented it failed of its mission. - -A year later a further powwow was staged at Fort Laramie to pursue the -matter of keeping the Bozeman Trail open through the forbidden Sioux -country. Perhaps matters might have proceeded equably had not General -Carrington arrived in the midst of the delicate negotiations to announce -that he had enough soldiers to protect the trail, treaty or no treaty. - -Carrington’s blustery announcement, backed up by a show of seven hundred -courageous but misguided cavalrymen, brought the talks to an abrupt end -and sent the two most important Sioux Chieftains, Red Cloud and Crazy -Horse, scurrying for the council fire and the war paths. In all the -great plains there were not to be found braver or more single-minded -Indian strategists than these two. For the better part of two years -roving bands of tribesmen under Red Cloud and his stalwart colleague -amply proved that Carrington could not have kept the trail safely open -if he had had seventy times his seven hundred men. It was, as a matter -of fact, the only time in our long history that Uncle Sam’s troops ever -took a downright beating. - -At last even Red Cloud could see that the white man, for all his -braggadocio and poor planning, would eventually win the turn; and -although his savage troops had tasted victory in almost every -engagement, he consented in 1868 to negotiate once more. Presumably both -sides were wiser by then, for a pact, sometimes called the -Harney-Sanborne Treaty, was dutifully signed and accepted in April of -that year. The United States agreed to close the Bozeman Trail and to -abandon the forts. The Black Hills were utterly forbidden to the white -man, and except for an agreement to let the Northern Pacific rails cross -the upper prairies unmolested, the high plains from the Missouri to the -Big Horn were returned by federal order to their historic isolation. - -After that fiasco the situation remained comparatively quiet for a few -years. Eastern Dakota was being settled bit by bit, and the rails were -pushing forward, ever so slowly but ever so surely. The Missouri River -was the frontier line, dividing the settled Dakotas from the Sioux -lands; and Fort Lincoln, on the river (not far from the site of today’s -Bismarck), was the outpost that overlooked the troubled territory. - -From month to month trappers, gold-seekers, and would-be homesteaders -slipped inside the Sioux curtain from the Cheyenne-Laramie country on -the south, from the rich Niobrara country in northwest Nebraska, or from -eastern Dakota itself. There was not much that the army could do about -these treaty violators except worry, for the borders to be patrolled -were vast and the forbidden lands inviting. - -But the army did worry, endlessly. There were increasingly frequent -rumors of the existence of gold in the Hills, and year after year -General Sheridan, commanding the Departments of Dakota, the Platte, and -the Missouri, urged stronger fortification of the Sioux boundaries to -prevent trouble. Trouble was particularly to be expected because several -bands of Sioux, specifically those under Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, -had not agreed to government supervision in 1868 and seemed thirsting -for a fight. - -Thus it was to make a military survey that Sheridan sent an expedition -through the heart of the Hills in 1874. His force of more than a -thousand soldiers moved under the command of George Armstrong Custer; -and, strange impedimenta for an army, the luggage in the lorries -included mining picks and pans, the belongings of H. N. Ross and William -T. McKay, who were officially attached to the command. Presumably Custer -was looking for something more than mere military sites. - -The Indian fighters of an earlier day—Kit Carson, the Bents, or Sibley, -for instance—would have stood gaping in the stockade as Custer’s force -moved leisurely onto the empty Dakota prairies. This was no ragtag army -in buckskin, but an orderly procession of one hundred and ten wagons, -six ambulances, a dozen caissons, and two heavy field pieces. Each wagon -and ambulance was drawn by a sprightly hand of six sleek mules. - -In addition, three hundred head of beef cattle browsed slowly along the -way in mooing testimony that this expedition would live off the very -fattest of the land. The personnel included, in addition to Custer’s -highly trained troops, a hundred Indian scouts, a platoon of expert -white guides and trappers, and, mounted upon docile mares, a special -contingent of botanists, geologists, geographers, and assorted expert -college professors. Also, as has been reported, there were two miners. - -To the north of the Hills, crossing the Belle Fourche River first, the -army made its gentle way, and then down the west slope of the forbidding -mountains, seeking for an easy pass into the dark interior. Tall in the -saddle rode golden-haired George Custer, for he was commanding the -strongest army ever put into Indian country. It is little wonder that he -slept quietly at night, or that he wrote in his diary: “It is a strange -sight to look back at the advancing column of cavalry and behold the men -with beautiful bouquets in their hands while their horses were decorated -with wreathes of flowers fit to crown a Queen of the May.” - -In that holiday mood the army moved down inside the great bowl of -mountains on its sightseeing tour, and presently it camped about three -miles west of the present town of Custer. All this while the miners had -not been inactive, but had plied their pans here and there as the -company passed across various streams. Until this bivouac, though, they -had had no luck, and, as a matter of fact, had actually been expecting -none. They had come along to quell the rumor of gold as much as to bear -it out. Preferably to quell it, if General Sheridan were to have his -way. - -On August 2 of that year, 1874, McKay turned out to try his implements -once again on French Creek. An early account gives this dramatic version -of the famed discovery: “When the earth [in the pan] was gone, he held -up his pan in the evening sun and found the rim lined with nearly a -hundred little particles of gold. These he carried to General Custer, -whose head was almost turned at the sight.” - -Through the magic of his discipline Custer managed to keep his army from -beating their ration tins into placer pans and “claiming” on the spot. -Getting under way almost immediately, the men continued their march -eastward through the heart of the Hills, and on August 30 emerged from -the great park and headed back to Fort Lincoln. - -In the meanwhile a messenger had been sent ahead with the news of gold. -Scout Charley Reynolds, who was to die with his commander just two years -later, was detached from the base camp and sent scurrying down to Fort -Laramie, to the nearest telegraph station. Within an hour of his arrival -at the post, two hundred miles to the south and west of the Black Hills, -the tremendous news was burning over the wires to General Sheridan in -St. Louis. - -It was also burning some operator’s ear along the way, for the great -secret, which was to be handed only to the high command in Washington, -made its way on that very day into the editorial rooms of the old -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_—where, naturally, it was treated with great -respect and splashed across the headlines with all the vigor of an -announcement of the Second Coming. - -There was actually a genuine religious fervor in the proclamation, for -the locust had been upon the land for many months in the eastern cities, -and the bread lines had been growing. It had threatened to be a cold -winter until ... until this last bonanza burst upon the nation. - -Men had all but forgotten what a gold rush was like. It had been so long -since the last great hegira to the Pikes Peak region that a new -generation had come into manhood, a generation that knew California only -as a state, Colorado as a prosperous territory, and the Union Pacific as -the proper way to cross the empty West. There were none of the desperate -winter marches up the Continental Divide this time, no lost wagon trains -on the salt deserts, no Indian massacres. This rush left Chicago on the -“cars,” as noisy and as highhearted as fans following a football club. - -And there was another great difference between the foray to the Black -Hills and the earlier gold rushes. In this case the argonauts did not -get to the diggings. The troops saw to that. Deploring the untimely leak -of official intelligence concerning the presence of the yellow metal in -the Dakota outcropping, the War Department issued stern warnings to all -settlers to keep away. The existence of the treaty with the Indians was -proclaimed in every paper—and, though less resoundingly, the danger from -the Indians was also mentioned. - -Nonetheless, before the end of that crucial year a sizable group of -foolhardy settlers broke through the blockade and made themselves at -home. Erecting a strong stockade at the scene of the first strike, they -soon carved themselves a town in the wilderness, gratefully naming it -Custer, and even that early providing for the wide main street where ox -teams could make a U-turn. Throughout the first winter these illegal -townspeople managed somehow to survive the cold, the lack of rations, -and the danger of Indian attack; but late in the spring General Crook’s -cavalry arrived to “escort” them out of the Hills and back to the -railroad at Cheyenne. - -Many of the citizens of that first town took their eviction with fair -grace, turning to other means of employment than gold mining—and there -were plenty—in Cheyenne, Denver, and the other near-by and rapidly -growing settlements. One group, though, the Gordon Party, apparently -enjoyed leadership of a tougher sort. They refused to be intimidated by -the troops. Setting up camp on the very boundary line between the -forbidden country and the permitted Platte Valley, they just waited. -Actually, an increasingly large number of immigrants waited on the -border only until nightfall, and then set out into the unknown. Some -were apprehended by the cavalry and returned, some were killed by the -sullen tribesmen, but hundreds of them managed to find their way to the -vicinity of French Creek. More than that, they managed to stay. - -It might be thought that gold mining, with all its necessary -paraphernalia, supplies, and general confusion, could not very well be -carried on in an atmosphere suggesting the more modern practice of -moonshining; but the truth of the matter was that there were just too -many settlers and too few soldiers. Time and again the troops would -swoop down on some busy little gathering and hustle the miners out to -the nearest courts, where they would hastily be acquitted and released -to go back to their workings. Under the very fist of forbiddance a score -of towns had sprung up, among them the reborn Custer City. - -Finally the government gave up all hope of keeping the eager immigrants -out of this last frontier. By the fall of 1875 the border towns of -Sidney, Nebraska, Yankton, South Dakota, and Cheyenne and Laramie, -Wyoming, were bursting at the seams with gold-hunters who demanded -“their rights as citizens.” Bowing to the inevitable, the government -sent a treaty commission to wait upon the Sioux. This body of earnest -men offered the Indians six million dollars for the right of entry into -the Hills. Although the treaty Sioux agreed to sell, the price they -asked wavered between twenty and one hundred million. Crazy Horse, who -did not attend the council, refused to sell at any price and solemnly -warned the white man to stay out. - -Frustrated, the treaty commissioners returned to Washington in despair, -while the embittered Sioux disappeared into the west river country to -nurse their grievances. Upon this turn of affairs, the government washed -its hands of the matter and opened the lands to settlement. - -That was in June of 1875. Within a matter of weeks after the bars had -been let down, the Hills were populated by uncounted thousands of men, -women, and children. Many simply came out of the woods to claim honestly -the diggings they had been working dishonestly; but many, many more came -from the East by every train, now that the country was legitimately -open. - -It was a motley assembly that took part in this Black Hills rush. In -earlier bonanzas the type had been pretty well formalized, for the -difficulty of the overland journey to California, for example, or across -to the Pikes Peak region, had kept all but the roughest—and toughest—at -home. But on this occasion the West was by no means as wild as it had -been in those earlier days. Distances had been conquered; transportation -methods, even beyond the railroads, were much safer and more adequate; -and the Black Hills, although cold in the middle of winter, offered none -of the climatic ferocities of the Rocky Mountains. Thus, to partake of -this feast of yellow dust hopeful clerks brushed shoulders with -desperadoes, professional men of every accomplishment traded rumors with -crease-faced sourdoughs from the dead land south of the Mogollon, and -oldsters who had thought they might never again hold a pan in their -hands dug alongside mere boys from whom the apron strings had been -relaxed. - -In the meantime, even as the good citizens of Custer, Gayville, Central -City, Golden Gate, Anchor City, and a host of other thriving towns, most -of which have long been given over to the ghosts, were bustling about -their exciting business, matters in the west were taking a slow but -inexorable turn for the worse. - -The army had let the situation ride for the summer and fall, keeping a -careful watch over the enemy Sioux, but feeling fairly assured that they -would attempt no large-scale raid of the Hills, populated now by at -least fifty thousand people. Summer and fall were not normally times to -worry over, in any case, for the buffalo were still on the range and -forage was plentiful for the tribes. It was in the depths of winter that -the tale would be told—either the Indians would come docilely to the -reservations for their rations, or they would steer clear of the white -man’s soldiers and supply their own necessities by raiding the isolated -ranch and stage line outposts. - -By mid-December the reservations were still empty, and General Terry -sent out a call to Sitting Bull, ordering him to bring his people in to -the military posts. January 1, 1876, was given as the deadline. The -haughty Sioux chief paid scant attention to Terry’s order, replying -simply that the general knew where to find him if he wanted to come for -him. Sitting Bull knew that the army would attempt no large maneuvers -with the weather as it was—one of the bitterest winters in recorded -history. - -Then he simply waited. - -But General Terry was no man to take a short answer. Immediately he -ordered three expeditions to prepare themselves for the field, to move -as soon as weather should permit, and to take the Indians early in the -spring when their ponies would still be thin and unrecovered from the -winter’s rigors. General Crook was to march north from Fort Fetterman, -on the North Platte River; General John Gibbon was to move south and -east from Fort Ellis, in Montana; and General Custer was to come west -from Fort Lincoln. - -Unfortunately not only the Indians but the weather as well turned -against General Terry, for with the thermometer standing most of the -time at between twenty and forty below and the prairie covered with the -glaze of incessant blizzards, neither Custer nor Gibbon was able to move -out of camp. - -Crook, though, was able to best the winter when March rolled in and to -locate one of the most dangerous of the rebel bands, Crazy Horse’s -renegade Oglalas, deep in the Powder River Valley. This was on March 17, -1876. Had Crook’s men not made certain grave errors of tactics after a -brilliant surprise, the battle might have solved the problem. As it -turned out, the Indians galloped a few circles around the troops and -made merrily off into the forest. Again the weather closed in. - -Three months later, when the summer weather made campaigning possible, -Crook’s troops were able to take to the saddle again, and again Crazy -Horse was located, this time encamped on the Tongue River, between -Powder River and Rosebud Creek. Again the battle was inconclusive, for -the troops seemed unable to press the advantage of their surprise -discovery of the Indians. - -Eight days later, on June 17, the bewildered but indomitable Crook came -a third time upon Crazy Horse, now on Rosebud Creek. On this occasion -the troops were able to euchre the Indians into a pitched battle—and -were thereupon so thoroughly trounced that Crook’s command was -essentially immobilized where the bleeding remnant lay at the battle’s -close. - -By the time the harassed cavalrymen had bound up their wounds and -remounted, Crazy Horse had disappeared over the hills and down into the -Big Horn Basin, where his cohorts joined a host of other bloodthirsty -braves in a great Sioux encampment. Black Moon was there, Inkpaduta, -Gall, and a major roster of other courageous Indian warriors. Counseling -them and performing their good medicine was none other than Sitting Bull -himself, who, it should be said, was not a warrior but a medicine man -and tribal diplomat. - -Historians have never been able to agree upon the number of braves -assembled under this battle flag, but all concur in the belief that the -camp could have contained no less than three thousand warriors—in all -probability the greatest single Indian army ever to be put into the -field against the troops. - -By this time other help was coming for Crook, as he lay in the south -nursing his ill fortune. General Custer, having scouted out Crazy -Horse’s retreat, had been ordered to stop him from the north and to -pinch the Indians between the prongs of his force and Crook’s. - -But it was Custer rather than Crazy Horse or Sitting Bull who met the -pincers. Coming upon the headquarters village of the enemy, Custer -divided his force of 600 men into four groups: Benteen with 140 odd, -Reno with about 125, McDougall with the ammunition and supplies and -perhaps 140 men, and Custer himself retaining the balance. - -While McDougall stayed to the rear, Benteen was sent off on a fruitless -errand into a badly broken terrain to the southwest. Custer and Reno in -the meantime proceeded side by side toward the village. Coming over the -last remaining hill before the Indian camp, Custer dispatched Reno ahead -to make a preliminary contact with the enemy, while he rode off in a -somewhat parallel direction, apparently bent on encircling the savages. - -Meanwhile Reno did indeed encounter the Indians, and when he realized -how tragically outnumbered he was, he immediately dismounted his men to -fight a delaying action on foot, thereby saving both men and horses. He -obviously adopted this tactic on the theory that he would be supported -from the rear by Custer. When he saw that Custer had decided to make a -diversionary attack on the right flank of the enemy, Reno and his men -gave up the fight and concentrated on scrambling out of the trap and -making their way to the hill which overlooked the village. - -From that vantage point Custer and his force could be seen across the -Little Big Horn at a distance of perhaps a thousand yards. Apparently -thinking that Reno was still successfully engaging the Indians, Custer -rode his men down into a ravine where he apparently encountered the full -horde of savages and where he met his death. The details of that last -action have never been made clear, but most experts think that he -divided his pitifully weak force into two segments at the time of the -final charge which took him full into the heart of the great enemy body. -Thus it was that Custer was caught in the pliers of the attack, in which -hopeless position his entire force was wiped out to the last man, -officer, and guide. Custer’s Last Stand, as it has been poetically -called, was in every respect the greatest defeat of white forces in the -history of Indian warfare. - -Custer’s death marked the end of the Black Hills controversy. Although -the Indians had been completely victorious, they had spent so heavily of -their warriors and their supplies that they were never again able to -mount a major attack against the whites. Swiftly the troops hunted them -down, village by village, and within a year the great Sioux War had -ground to a stop. - -A second treaty commission had been appointed late in 1876, and by -February the transfer of the Black Hills from the Sioux Nation to the -United States had been completed—not for a cash consideration, but only -for the government’s promise to support the Indians until such time as -they might learn, under agency supervision, to provide for themselves. - -By that time the question of entry was no more than rhetorical. The -Black Hills were as thickly populated as any region of equal size in the -West. The stage routes in from Cheyenne, from Sidney, Nebraska, and from -the Dakota railheads were well traveled. The last frontier had been -broken. - -And besides—there was Deadwood and the Homestake. - -The original rush had centered in historic Custer, the scene of the -first entrance into the country on French Creek, and the terminus of the -Cheyenne-Black Hills stage line. By Christmas of 1875 the population of -that wilderness settlement was in excess of ten thousand souls, each of -them active and bustling about his business. - -On the other hand, there was not a great deal of business to bustle -after. French Creek was a good clue to gold, but that was about all. -Before long most of the good citizens, having found the little brook -something of a snare and a delusion, were casting about for some way to -make their livings from each other. Storekeeping, laundering, ranching, -hostlering, all were honorable occupations which soon found a plenitude -of practitioners. - -In that fashion the winter was passed. Ice capped the waters and the -snow hung from the trees, and aside from hoping for spring there was -little the thronging populace could do. Thus a fruitful field was in -fallow for the gossip which started blossoming in March and April. The -tales, whispered—as such stories always are—without definition or -authority, had it that somewhere in the northern Hills there was another -stream that had nuggets the size of ... it is unimportant how large the -nuggets, for a glitter of dust the size of an eye-speck would have been -a windfall in Custer. Day by day the rumor grew, and as is always the -case with such gossip, the precise location of this “Deadtree Gulch” was -never made entirely plain. - -The reason for this obfuscation was simple: a rich strike had actually -been made far in the north part of the Hills, and the claimants were -doing their level best to keep it a secret. The fact that Custer held -its population as long as it did was a testament to the sagacity and -close-lippedness of John Pearson and Sam Blodgett, who had stumbled, -late the previous winter, into one of the world’s richest gold basins. - -The secret held for only a few months. Trappers, prospectors, and mere -travelers were passing through the spruce trails of the Hills in such -profusion that sooner or later the activity up Deadwood Gulch, as it -came to be called, was bound to be observed. Pearson had found his dream -cache in December of 1875, and he managed to contain the secret only -until March of 1876. Like a forest fire the news of the strike to the -north spread, and by May the southern Hills were deserted. Custer, for -several years the metropolis of the entire region, lost all except -thirty of its citizens in a matter of weeks, and other settlements in -the south and west simply dried up and disappeared. - -That Deadwood Gulch, so named for the stand of burned-over timber which -graced its declivitous sides, contained a major deposit was not to be -denied. The rich sands which Pearson had spaded up testified to that, -and later comers were by no means disappointed. But the names and -locations of individual early discoveries have long been lost to all -save the most assiduous researchers, for there was one claim which -outshone all the rest. That digging was the mighty Homestake, which, -from its first days, has produced gold and assorted other precious ores -in such abundance and with such dependability that it has been accepted -the world over as one of earth’s great mines, rivaled in munificence -only by the Portland-Independence of Cripple Creek in Colorado and the -fabulous workings of the Witwatersrand of South Africa. - -As with all rich diggings, an appropriate legend attends the account of -the original discovery of the Homestake. It seems there were two -brothers, Fred and Moses Manuel, who had long been addicted to that most -vicious of all unbreakable habits—gold prospecting. Moses had wound his -weary way through the West for a full quarter of a century, plodding the -dusty California gold gulches in ’50, up the steep heights of Virginia -City in ’60, into Old Mexico, and—although he was a full generation too -early—into Alaska. But now, in 1875, he was through with it all and was -going home. - -Collecting his brother Fred, who was fruitlessly panning the sands of -the Last Chance Gulch in the high border country of Montana, Moses -started east, passing of course through the Black Hills, to scout down -this one last ray of rumor—that a new strike was in the making. Setting -out their camp in Bobtail Gulch, a mere pistol shot from certain placer -claims in Deadwood Gulch, they went to work in midwinter, hoping to -find, the legend has it, just enough blossom rock to give them a stake -for their homeward journey. - -They seem to have hit it with a vengeance, not mere placer gold in the -stream bed but a genuine lode, for on April 9, 1876, they patented the -claim known as the Homestake. Discarding for the moment all idea of -going on home with whatever meager wealth this “last” try should bring -them, the Manuel brothers immediately consolidated their position by -going into partnership with another prospector and taking shares in the -Golden Terra, an adjoining piece of real estate, the Old Abe, and the -Golden Star. The immediate returns, by the ton, are not today known, but -they must have been substantial, for the lucky brothers built an -arrastra—a crude millstone affair for grinding ore—and managed to pocket -more than five thousand dollars in their first year of operation. - -In the natural run of events the Homestake and the adjoining parcels -which the Manuel brothers were operating would probably have worked well -enough for a year or so, and would then have suffered the fate of -thousands of other diggings throughout the gold-rush West—the surface -ores would have played out, and because of the high cost of following -the lodes deeper into the earth than a few dozen feet, the mines would -have been abandoned. But in this case a San Francisco syndicate came -into the picture, providing the necessary capital funds for the -searching out of whatever ultimate wealth the Homestake might have. - -This syndicate of Pacific Coast businessmen included James Ben Ali -Haggin, a partner in the highly solvent Wells Fargo express company, and -Senator George Hearst, the father of the publisher, William Randolph -Hearst. These vigorous men sent a mining engineer into the Hills in 1877 -to canvass the location for possible investments; and in the course of a -detailed examination of whatever properties seemed to be paying well, -this emissary from Market Street came upon the brothers Manuel. A -superficial examination of the Homestake and the Golden Terra sufficed -this engineer, and he optioned them both, the first for seventy thousand -dollars and the second for half that sum. Returning immediately to -California, he delivered to his employers samples of this richest gold -mine in North America, and without delay Senator Hearst went to South -Dakota to see for himself. - -What he saw impressed him most favorably, for upon his return to -California he owned both the Terra and the Homestake, as well as several -other claims on the same hill, a total of ten acres of mining property. -That small figure is significant in the light of the fact that the -Homestake Mining Company today owns more than six thousand acres of -mining claims. - -With the incorporation of the mining company in San Francisco, the -aboriginal methods employed by the Manuel brothers were discarded, and -the latest in mine machinery was laboriously shipped by train to Sidney, -Nebraska, and then by ox team the two hundred miles to the town of Lead -(pronounced “Leed”), the precise location of the Homestake, two miles -from Deadwood City. The first installation was an eighty-stamp mill, -which began its work in July of 1878. Within five years six additional -mills were in operation, holding a total of 580 giant stampers. - -The mine now handles four thousand tons of ore per day and has, in its -sighted reserve, twenty million tons yet to work. The two main shafts -reach into the earth to a depth of more than a mile, with branching -tunnels piercing the mountain at hundred-foot levels; and there are more -than a hundred and fifty miles of secondary tunnels, served by more than -eighty miles of mine railway. - -The richness of the Homestake ore has averaged fourteen dollars per ton -for many years now. This may not sound like any considerable amount of -wealth—but the most active gold operation in Colorado, the Fairplay -dredge, is working gravel which pays an average of nine cents per ton. - -Finally, the records of the company show that it has mined 70,000,000 -tons of ore, yielding a total of 18,000,000 ounces of gold, which has -brought a gross price, at various standards, of $450,000,000. - -With the opening of the Homestake, the conquest of the Black Hills was -effectively completed, and the region entered into a period of rapid -development and expansion. Although the great mine at Lead was run -solely as a business enterprise, devoid of glamour and excitement, the -town of Deadwood, two miles away, enjoyed a decade of the lustiest -history ever to be known by a bonanza town. During its years of activity -and arrogance Deadwood contributed to our national folklore several -great figures, among them Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill -Hickok, and Preacher Smith. - - - - - CHAPTER FIVE - History II: Deadwood Days - - - Sam left where he was working - one pretty morn in May, - a-heading for the Black Hills - with his cattle and his pay. - Sold out in Custer City - and then got on a spree, - A harder set of cowboys - you seldom ever see. - —“Legend of Sam Bass” - -It has become the literary custom to recall our bonanza frontier less as -an economic phenomenon than as a backdrop for bloodshed, mayhem, and -assorted turns of vigor and violence. Early California, for example, is -today known less as the scene of the accomplishments of James Fair, -Charles Crocker, and Leland Stanford than as the arena for the armed -forays of Joaquin Murietta, Black Bart, Dick Fellows, and various other -gunmen. Since this is the accepted practice, it is entirely appropriate -to introduce the gold-rush days of the Black Hills with a brief account -of the banditry and thuggery which accompanied the early growth of that -last frontier. - -The quotation at the head of this chapter is one verse of an old folk -ballad, “The Legend of Sam Bass,” the not particularly inspiring saga of -the life and death of an Indiana-born horse thief and road agent. -Actually, Bass had little to do with the history of the Hills, and as -anybody knows who has ever whistled or sung his song, the bulk of the -chronicle concerns his struggle against the Texas Rangers. - -On the other hand, Sam Bass will long live in Black Hills history, for -regardless of his other accomplishments he went to his glory bearing the -credit for having originated the fine art of stage robbery in that -Dakota wilderness. The Black Hills, like every other gold region, -enjoyed but scant holiday from the pestiferous road agents. During 1875 -and 1876, when the region was filling up, it seemed that there was -plenty to occupy the imagination of every individual who was able to -make the tortuous trip from the railroad. But by 1877 the area had -calmed down to such an extent that idle hands could occasionally be -counted in the dram shops, and the time was ripe for the devil to get in -his work. - -From the point of view of geography the Hills presented ideal conditions -for armed assault. The two major stage lines leading into the region -were the Cheyenne-Black Hills Line, running through two hundred miles of -desolate emptyland, and the Sidney Short Route, less long by some thirty -miles, but passing through equally lonely country. In addition, one -freight and stage line came in from the east, from Fort Pierre, and -another from the north, following the general heading of Custer’s 1874 -expedition. The gold, though, most often traveled the fastest route, out -to the Union Pacific at Cheyenne or Sidney. - -During the first twenty months or so of the Black Hills gold rush, armed -guards were not normally counted among the personnel of the stage -coaches. As a matter of fact, in most instances it was to be questioned -whether or not any gold rode the stages, for the going was generally -thin in the diggings, and the average operator accumulated his bullion -for several months before amassing a shipment large enough to be worth -the trouble and worry. For all the wealth of the Homestake, the Hills by -no means repeated California’s early history, when every stage worth -tying a horse to carried at least some treasure. And yet, in the -springtime most of the miners cleaned up their winter’s take, it was -commonly understood, and ... well, Sam Bass must have thought, every -good thing must have a beginning. - -In March, 1877, Bass organized a gang of cutthroats in Deadwood, and the -brief period when one could ride the coaches in comparative safety came -to an end. It was not much of a gang that the legendary bandit gathered -around him, the five other men being mostly cowardly and quite -worthless, either as adventurers or as strategists. Bass himself was -little more than a “punk,” as he would be called today, and, as a matter -of fact, did not earn his immortality until much later, in Texas, where -he was shot down in a barber chair by a Ranger. - -The gang, if they might so be called, foregathered on the snowy night of -March 25 in Deadwood and, after consuming sufficient whiskey to enable -them to stand the cold, made their way down the south road to a point a -few miles from town where they might intercept the incoming stage from -Cheyenne. What genius of diabolical planning led them to attack an -inbound conveyance, which could be carrying little more than ordinary -mail, rather than the “down” stage, which might possibly be loaded with -bullion, has never been figured out, but at any rate they camped -themselves in the snow and waited. - -At last the stage hove into sight, and Bass, the trusty leader, -cautioned his hoodlums not to shoot, but merely to stop the coach and -demand the mail pouch. Presumably the sentiments of the period held that -robbery without gunfire was quite condonable, and an entirely different -affair from burglary accompanied by shooting. It is also quite possible -that Bass was only minding his own safety, for the night had already -been marked by one misfortune—one of his men had managed to shoot -himself in the foot while putting on his deadly hardware. - -As might be expected, however, Bass’s well-laid plans went very much -agley. In the excitement of calling “Halt!” one of the bandits proved a -bit too eager-fingered, and even as the stage driver was reining his -team to a stop, a shotgun blared out, emptying its charge at close range -into the driver’s chest. - - [Illustration: Calamity Jane, during her carnival days] - - [Illustration: Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait] - - [Illustration: Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded - by shotgun messengers] - - [Illustration: Deadwood Gulch in 1881] - - [Illustration: Modern Deadwood—seventy years later] - -With the shot the horses bolted, and shortly thereafter they pounded -into Deadwood, guided by a hatless passenger who had managed to secure -the ribbons as they dangled. Within a matter of minutes a posse had been -formed and riders were making their way into the woods. Inasmuch as Bass -and his companions had been acting suspiciously during the afternoon and -evening, the finger of accusation pointed altogether correctly in their -direction, and before the moon was down Sam Bass was well on his way to -Texas, escaping Deadwood’s justice only to go to his lathered doom. - -This tragic foray against law and order set the stage, so to speak, and -before long the spruce trails of the Black Hills, once so still and -harmless, could be passed over safely only in the company of “shotgun -messengers,” as the armed attendants were called. It did not take the -stage companies long to come to this way of operating, for Wells Fargo, -which contracted for the express business, had had a quarter-century of -rugged experience. Bringing their brave talents swiftly to bear on the -situation, the Wells Fargo men steel-plated the coaches to be used for -bullion shipments, and brought into the Hills the famed treasure chests -which had figured so largely in the history of the coming of law and -order to California—metal-bound cases too heavy to be transported -quickly from the scene of crime, and too sturdy to be opened except -after arduous work with chisels and crowbars. The chests had been -developed with the idea that a posse could be gathered at the spot where -a stage had been held up before the gold could be removed from the chest -or the chest itself taken far away. - -A more important safety factor than the chests was the reputation of the -shotgun messengers. The express companies went to great lengths to -engage only the most fearless and law-abiding men they could find for -this dangerous task, and time and time again thousands upon thousands of -dollars in bullion rode across the lonely trails with no more than one -man, his shotgun, and his reputation for bravery guarding it. - -Wyatt Earp, perhaps the most noted of these messengers, entered his long -tour of Wells Fargo duty through that firm’s Deadwood office. Earp, as -any lover of western legend will tell, earned his vigorous reputation as -marshal in the bloody Kansas cattle towns of Dodge City and Abilene. -After the excitement of these Gomorrahs had worn off, he made his way to -Deadwood in 1876—not as a gold-seeker, but apparently merely in search -of honest and not too dangerous employment. At any rate, his brief stay -in the Hills was given to the profession of coal and wood dispensing -rather than to law enforcement. Either the weather or the lethargy of -the place suited him poorly, for within the year he was casting about -for some means of making his way back to his own plains country. - -Taking advantage of the public clamor against road agents after the Sam -Bass affair, he offered his services to the express agent and was hired -for the single trip out for fifty dollars cash and free passage. The -agent was by no means doling out any charity in this exchange, for he -knew the value of Earp’s reputation and looked upon the fifty dollars as -a cheap form of insurance. He advertised in the local newspaper: “The -Spring cleanup will leave for Cheyenne on the regular stage at 7 AM next -Monday. Wyatt Earp of Dodge will ride shotgun.” - -Bullion shippers were quick to take advantage of this extra protection, -and it was recorded that no less than two hundred thousand dollars in -bullion was weighed in for that special trip. It would be most dramatic -to recount that Earp’s one trip was marked by attempted mass raids, -burning coaches, and wounded drivers, but the truth of the matter is -that the journey was made on time and in good order. Only one shot was -fired, and that by Marshal Earp, who took offense at the suspicious -actions of a rider whose course seemed to parallel the stage route for -an unaccountable distance. Without stopping the stage or otherwise -alarming the passengers Earp dropped the offending horseman a few miles -out of Deadwood, and the rest of the trip was made without incident. - -Despite the vigor with which the treasure coaches were protected, armed -robbery continued to take place sporadically all during the final decade -before the rails pushed through from the East. By and large these -forays, while bloody, were unsuccessful, and not a single desperado was -able to rise to any sort of fame during that period. On the other hand, -there was one robbery which must go down in history for the strange way -in which the loot was recovered. - -This particular villainy, remembered as the Canyon Springs robbery, took -place on September 28, 1878. The locale of the outrage was not far out -of Deadwood on the rough way through Beaver Creek and Jenney Stockade -into Wyoming and thence to Cheyenne. The coach, on this fateful -occasion, was rumored to be carrying nearly one hundred thousand dollars -in ingots from the Homestake, as well as from other works; and although -shipments of such size were not altogether rare, they were sufficiently -out of the ordinary to suggest the services of additional shotgun -messengers. It may well have been the mere fact of the scheduling of -additional guards that called the attention of the bandits to this -particular manifest. - -The holdup took place in midafternoon, as the driver was stopping the -coach to water the horses. In the gunplay three men were killed, and the -bandits escaped with the loot from the treasure chest, which they -apparently managed to chisel open. Ten miles away one of the guards came -upon a party of horsemen, who returned to the scene of the carnage; but -upon their arrival they found the coach despoiled of its gold. - -In many such cases the bandits would have been recognized as local or -near-local citizens; but in this instance all of the desperadoes -appeared to be strangers to the Hills, and consequently the law officers -had very little except guesswork to guide them in their pursuit. -Guesswork coupled with just plain snooping soon uncovered a trail, -however, for one of the stage agents turned up a ranch owner who gave -the information that a small group of men had, on the very evening of -the holdup, bought a light spring wagon from him. Such a transaction was -unusual enough to indicate that the purchasers were by no means -individuals of legitimate calling, and in all probability were the -actual bandits. Setting out on this trail, the agent managed to trace -them and their wagon all the way to Cheyenne, where the group had -apparently turned to the east. - -By that time persons who had seen them in passing had recognized them, -and their names were broadcast to the marshals and sheriffs of all the -eastern regions of the plains. Day after day the stage agent followed -their trail east, across the Missouri, across the border of Nebraska, -and on to the pleasant town of Atlantic, in Iowa. By that time the wagon -had been discarded and the gang had broken up, and the agent was -following only one spoor—the track of a young man who was always seen -with a strange, heavy pack on his back. - -In the town of Atlantic the trail came to an abrupt end, and indeed the -mystery might never have been solved had it not been for a strange -display in the street window of a local bank. Pausing to see what it -might be that was engaging the attention of a crowd at the window, the -agent was astounded to behold part of the very loot he was pursuing—two -bullion bricks stamped with serial numbers which identified them beyond -a doubt as part of the Canyon Springs treasure. - -Upon questioning, the banker proudly asserted that his son had only the -day before returned from a successful adventure in the Black Hills, and -had, as a matter of fact, found a gold mine, which he had sold for the -very bricks making up the exhibit. - -Gently the agent disabused the banker of this sad misapprehension, and, -enlisting the aid of the local Sheriff, had the prodigal son arrested. - -The unfortunate conclusion to this tale of detective expertness is that -although the gold was eventually returned to the Homestake, the young -bandit escaped from the train which was carrying him back to Cheyenne, -and was never thereafter apprehended. As for the other four robbers and -the rest of the treasure, no further trace of either was ever -discovered. - -Although banditry and skulduggery played a very great part in the tales -of most of the other bonanza gold fields, the Black Hills story was for -the most part happily without extraordinary violence. Much more -conspicuous in the history of the Hills than the desperate adventures of -bandits are the exploits of the folk heroes who rode the Deadwood legend -into immortality. Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, -Preacher Smith, all of these amazing personalities achieved a lasting -fame during the early days of this later frontier, not for any deeds of -derring-do in the Sam Bass fashion, but for the old American custom of -living and dying in a high and wide manner. - -In all probability Deadwood Dick has carried the saga of the Hills -farther and to a greater audience, both in this country and abroad, than -any of the others, and for that reason, as well as for the strange -circumstance that he never existed, it is perhaps well to tell his story -first. - -Dick, who never had a last name, was nothing more nor less than the -happy creation of an overworked literary side-liner eking out a living -in the late seventies. Having exhausted the possible plot complexities -of such heroes as Seth Jones and Duke Darrall, Messrs. Beadle and Adams, -proprietors of that stupendous literary zoo, The Pocket Library -(published weekly at 98 William Street, New York, price five cents), -urged their hack, Edward L. Wheeler, to crank out a new character. This -Shakespeare of the sensational, having recently heard of the brave -doings in Deadwood, of the Black Hills, promptly created a latter-day -Leatherstocking, Deadwood Dick. - -Dick’s success was instantaneous, for there was a sense of truth in -these stories which had theretofore been missing. Dispatches in every -post brought the news of Deadwood as it was happening, and thus the -weekly appearance of another Deadwood story was able to hang itself -firmly on the coattails of reality. In one episode Dick courts Calamity -Jane, who actually existed at the time, and finally marries her. In -another, Our Hero is a frontier detective, fighting bravely on the side -of law and order. In still another he has turned to robbery, and at one -point is actually strung by his neck from a cottonwood gallows. - -After exhausting the many plot possibilities of the Black Hills, Dick, -who had become as real to his readers as George Washington, began to -work both backward and forward in time and space. In one set of -adventures he is shown to be an active Indian fighter; in another he -turns up with Calamity Jane in the town of Leadville, Colorado, which -came into its glory not long after the strike in Deadwood. - -At last the many loose ends of the story so entangled author Wheeler -that he gave up Deadwood Dick as a lost cause and out of nowhere fetched -him a son, Deadwood Dick, Jr., who marched on to the turn of the century -and down into our own time. Indeed, his noble features can still -occasionally be found staring gravely up from a pile of old and dusty -magazines in attic corners. - -With such a heritage it is little wonder that as the town of Deadwood -grew away from its infancy, and as its modern Chamber of Commerce turned -to summer pageants as a source of tourist interest, Deadwood Dick should -be revived and paraded. Deadwood’s summer festivals, the gay “Days of -’76,” are built around a town-wide re-creation of the gold rush, with -the natives chin-whiskered, booted, and costumed within an inch of their -lives. During this gusty week otherwise sober and retiring citizens turn -themselves out as stage coach drivers, Indians, and pony express riders, -and the nights are filled with such a bubbling halloo that the tourists, -who come in ever larger droves, are able to go home and report that they -have honestly spent time in a frontier town. - -To heighten the effect, the impresarios of this gay divertissement many -years ago decided to raise Deadwood Dick from Beadle’s pages and put him -on the street like all the other self-respecting Calamity Janes and Wild -Bills. Locating an oldster who looked not unlike the artist’s original -concept, they dressed him in an assortment of western oddities and gave -him time off from his duties as a stable hand while the festival was in -session. For several years this simple pretense was carried on, and no -sleep whatsoever was lost over the fact that a mild fraud was being -perpetrated on the visiting Iowans. - -In 1927, though, when South Dakota was negotiating with Calvin Coolidge -to get him to spend his summer in the Hills, the stable hand, whose name -happened to be Dick Clarke, was sent to Washington to extend a personal -welcome to the President. Patently a publicity stunt, it fooled nobody -but old Dick himself. The rigors of the trip and the succession of -tongue-in-cheek honors heaped upon him somehow tilted the old man’s -mind, and from that day until his death a decade later he fully believed -that he was the original Deadwood Dick. Frowning down any suggestions -that he doff his beaded finery and return to the care of the oat bins, -he betook himself far from the gentle safety of the Deadwood that he -knew and that knew him, and took to touring the backwoods with -fifth-rate medicine shows and Wild West pageants. Somewhere along the -line he got up a small pamphlet which he sold to the gawking audiences -who thought they were seeing a genuine frontiersman. In this amazing -tract he spelled out such of the facts of Wheeler’s stories as were -coherent and in logical time sequence. The rest, including a date and -place of birth, he soberly filled in for himself. - -And that was Deadwood Dick. When he finally died, back in Deadwood in -the early forties, much of the town had come to believe as he did that -there had been a Deadwood Dick, just as there had been a Calamity Jane, -and that this gaffer had been the very person. His cortege was solemnly -followed, and to this day flowers are sprinkled on his grave by confused -but loyal residents of the Hills. - - -Wild Bill Hickok, on the other hand, actually lived, and actually died -exactly as the legend goes, with aces and eights in his hand. It was -this unfortunate occurrence, as a matter of fact, that gave to that -particular poker hand its gruesome name, Dead Man’s Hand. - -Somewhat in the manner of Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill achieved a large part -of his fame through the earnest efforts of Beadle & Adams. That is to -say, much of his renown came after his untimely demise, and much of it -was deliberately generated to satisfy the great western-yearnings of the -avid book-buying public. In addition to the publishers’ efforts on -Bill’s behalf, great impetus was given to his posthumous repute by -Calamity Jane. Nevertheless, in all probability Hickok was actually the -fearless and sterling character his legendeers have depicted, and had he -not been brutally done to death by feckless Jack McCall he would -doubtless have earned even greater fame through his own efforts in later -years. - -James Hickok was born into a farming family in Illinois in the year -1837, and passed a quiet and respectable boyhood in the ordinary -pursuits of such an existence. In his nineteenth year he, like so many -other young men of that day, felt the urgent call of the Far West. He -hired himself out forthwith as a teamster in a wagon train to the -Pacific Coast. - -Returning at the end of this one visit to the golden shores, he managed -to land in the Platte Valley of the eastern Rockies in the very year -when gold was being discovered in that region. The following two years -he spent in odd jobs around Denver and on the high plains to the east of -that new city. During all this time, however, it seemed as if his heart -were hungering for the lower country. He let his drifting carry him -slowly back into Kansas where, at the beginning of the Civil War, he -managed a station for Hinckley’s Overland Express Company, which was -then staging from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Denver and into Central City. - -All these adventures gave ample opportunity for any young man of spleen -to entangle himself a dozen times over in killings, brawls, and assorted -rough businesses, but through this entire period James Hickok gave -evidence of being nothing but a stalwart and well-intentioned -individual. - -The harmlessness of his pursuits, though, came to an explosive end after -one year in this genial work, when he indulged in pistolry with a -certain McCanles gang. One version of the Wild Bill legend states that -the “gang” were cutthroats, and that Hickok was only defending his -company’s property. Another version, equally trustworthy, has it that -the McCanleses were Confederate sympathizers, attempting to raise a -cavalry unit in the region and thus offending Hickok with his Unionist -leanings. Whatever the reason, the outcome was bloody. No one today -knows for certain how many men were killed, for eyewitness accounts have -included reports ranging all the way from one to six, all of them -presumably slain by Hickok. - -The doughty station manager, his helper, and another stage company -employee were speedily brought to trial for the affair, and just as -speedily acquitted of any crime. Shortly after that Hickok resigned his -express company affiliation and joined the Union army, fighting the war -out as a trusted though undistinguished scout. - -After his discharge in 1865, he seems to have forsaken forever his once -peaceful way of life, and thereafter blood was more than occasionally to -be found upon his hands. His first postwar killing took place in -Springfield, Missouri, in a duel with a gambler; and later that same -year he was reported to have mortally wounded another card player in -Julesburg, Colorado Territory. In the next year another report, -unofficial like all the rest, had him killing three more men in -Missouri, and in 1867—this _was_ official—he went to the booming cow -town of Hays City, Kansas, where he was shortly offered the post of -marshal. - -That his reputation, whether truthful or legendary, was growing there -can be no question. By 1867 he was accounted to be one of the best -gunmen of his time and place, quite possibly for the simple reason that -he had survived so many fights. For all the shadowy overtones of his -story, he was also reputed to be a devotee of righteousness and order, -although this facet of his character may or may not actually have -existed. He was well known to be a gambler, and his victims were all -(except the McCanleses) supposed to be cheaters at cards. Whether his -vivacity with Mr. Colt’s revolver was intended to rid the earth of -dishonest men or merely to avenge a lost hand is beside the point, for -his acceptance of the position of marshal of Hays City indicates that -for a time, at least, his inclinations lay in the direction of law and -order. - -From Hays City he went to a similar post in Abilene, where he bore the -star until 1872. During all this time he was forced to kill but a bare -minimum of unworthy citizens, his ever growing repute as a dangerous man -with a gun apparently frightening would-be desperadoes out of his orbit. -Three notches were all that he placed upon his weapon during his service -in those two hell cities of the prairies—definitely a world’s record in -reverse. - - [Illustration: One of the Black Hills’ many streams] - - [Illustration: The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared] - -Apparently the inactivity came to bore him, for he soon gave up police -work to return to the army for two years as a scout. This harsh calling -also failed to satisfy whatever inner wants were making themselves felt, -and in 1874 he resigned to join a traveling show with Buffalo Bill. - -In 1875, however, he was to be found no longer behind the chemical -lights, but idling his time away in Cheyenne. During this restless -interlude he married a circus rider named Agnes Lake. Shortly after the -ceremony, which took place in 1876, he followed the trail to Deadwood, -arriving in April and setting up camp with another ex-army scout. The -motives which drew him to that thriving boom town were, in all -probability, those which drew the thousands of others—mere curiosity and -the hope that something might turn up. Indeed, during the four months of -his Deadwood hiatus he did very little but play poker in the famed -saloon known as Number Ten. That he was as accomplished a gambler as he -was a gunman was doubted by no one, and through his ability with the -pasteboards he apparently kept himself in such funds as he needed. He -did not attempt to look for gold, nor did he seek any official post in -the town. He merely played the long hours away at cards. - -One might expect such a man as Wild Bill Hickok to meet his nemesis in -open battle with a murderous cutthroat seeking to pay off an old score. -Western legend is filled with such fitting come-uppances. But in this -rare case our hero was killed in a peaceful moment by a total stranger -and for reasons which nobody was ever thereafter able to discern. - -On the fateful day of August 2, 1876, he entered Number Ten shortly -after the lunch hour to take up his everlasting hand of cards. Normally, -being a prudent man, he insisted on a seat with its back to a wall, from -which vantage point he could keep his eye cocked for trouble; but on -this day, for some reason, he arrived just too late to take his -customary position and had to accept a chair with its back to the door. -The game proceeded amiably enough for a while, and there was nothing in -the afternoon air to suggest violence of any sort. At last a normally -inoffensive deadbeat, one Jack McCall, turned from the bar where he had -been enjoying a quiet drink and, passing the gaming table on his way to -the door, suddenly and without a word pulled his revolver from his vest -and put a shot through Wild Bill’s skull. - -The effect was instantaneous. When the news spread that Wild Bill had -been killed, all work stopped in the city and men streamed in from every -corner, expecting at the very least to find a major battle in progress. -When finally the crowds were quieted down and it was learned that the -killing was nothing more than a mere murder, the populace speedily -hunted up the terrified McCall, whom they found huddled in a near-by -stable, and arranged a formal trial. The facts that Deadwood was at that -time still out of bounds to American citizens and therefore under no -legitimate civil jurisdiction and that the judge, jury, and prosecuting -attorney were elected on the spot by a show of hands, having therefore -no official standing, did not dampen the ardor of the crowd. A trial was -a trial, and its results would presumably be fair and honest. - -As a matter of fact, Jack McCall must have been the most surprised -individual of all at the ultimate fairness of the legal machinery which -had been set up in his honor. With the acceptance of his fumbling plea -that Hickok had, at a place unnamed and at a time unnamed, killed his -brother, McCall was acquitted and turned free, and Wild Bill was -sorrowfully buried by the admiring populace. - -As soon as he was freed, McCall hurried back to Cheyenne to escape the -reach of any of Hickok’s friends. Unfortunately the story of the killing -followed him there, and under the mistaken impression that he had -undergone a legitimate trial and was therefore no longer subject to -additional jeopardy, McCall took no pains to deny the murder. This was a -most foolish tactic on his part, for he was speedily rearrested and -shipped to Yankton, the capital of South Dakota Territory, where he was -held for a session of the proper court. Inasmuch as he had admitted -before witnesses not only that he had killed Wild Bill, but also that -his earlier plea had been fabricated from whole cloth, he had a very -slender defense indeed, and was quickly found guilty and banged. - -To the very end no clue could be found to any sort of sound reason for -his having fired the fatal shot. It was quite definitely proved that he -had never had any dealings with his victim and had never been in any way -offended by him, and that he no more than knew vaguely who he was. It -was apparently a completely aimless killing, the unhappy inspiration of -the moment. - -On the other hand, Justice seems forever determined to get to the bottom -of the matter, for _The Trial of Jack McCall_ has become an institution -of the Black Hills, played, like _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, all the -summers long in a popular tavern. Where audiences elsewhere hiss their -Legrees and other purely fictional villains, the proud residents of -Deadwood have their very own and very real scoundrel for the target of -their malisons—the miserable McCall. Tourists are cordially invited to -join in the fun and thereby to spread ever farther the legend of Wild -Bill Hickok. - -On June 21, 1951, the legend was further enhanced and improved upon by -the presentation to the city of Deadwood of a brand new statue of Hickok -carved out of a massive chunk of native granite by the ebullient -sculptor, Ziolkowski. An all-day celebration attended the unveiling of -this statue upon its pedestal at the foot of Mt. Moriah, and the zenith -of the day’s gaudy reverence was the reading of an “epic” poem to the -hushed populace of the town over a loud-speaker system from the top of -the mount. The statue is plain to be seen about a block from the Adams -Memorial Museum, and copies of the epic can no doubt be had by -soliciting the Deadwood Chamber of Commerce. - - -Of a somewhat different character from Wild Bill, but, it is good to -report, no less revered in the Hills, was Preacher Smith. - -Frontier towns have been notorious for their hallowing of persons, both -male and female, who were either expertly good or expertly bad. This -strange compounding of affections would suggest that the vice or -godliness in itself was unimportant, but that the rough and crude -citizens who populated our earlier settlements held a genuine admiration -and regard for anyone of any calling who demonstrated authority and -accomplishment. - -And thus it was with the Reverend Henry W. Smith. A man of exceptionally -little luck in life, he gave up his dwindling congregations in the -States and journeyed into the frontier in 1875, partly because of a zeal -in his heart to bring the Word into the lawless and godless gold camps, -but also, it must be conjectured, to find some form of weekday -employment which would enable him to care for his wife and two -daughters. The wolf had been howling at many doors during those years, -and parsonages which carried even a bare subsistence stipend were few -and far between. - -Smith went first to Custer, where he stayed but a short while, finding -little in the way of work and less in the way of souls to save, since -the rush to Deadwood was then in full force. Hiring onto a merchandise -train as a cook’s helper, he made his way to that newer city, arriving -early in May of 1876. In a town of such activity it was not difficult to -locate work, and shortly his hide began to fill out and his purse to -thicken. That purse, it was discovered after his death, was to be used -for the purpose of bringing his family out to join him. - -Working diligently and, of course, soberly at his menial tasks from -Monday through Saturday, and bravely setting up his pulpit on the main -street on Sundays, Preacher Smith soon won the respect and even the -genial admiration of the roisterous townspeople. At first his -congregations contained more wandering dogs than people, but week after -week, as he determinedly kept after his work, an increasingly large -crowd gathered of a Sunday morning to listen to his sermons. - -Thus the entire town was shocked when he was brutally killed by Indians -while walking to a near-by settlement to preach a sermon. Indians were -bad enough at best, but killing a harmless and unarmed preacher was an -act of violence which shook the consciences of the whole citizen body. -It was on those consciences that the guilt began to press—the guilt of -the knowledge that they had driven him to his death by their slowness to -accept him in their own community and that he had gone to his rendezvous -seeking a congregation, no matter how small, that would house him and -the Master he served. - -Belatedly gathering to his support, the citizens passed a sizable hat -for the benefit of the unfortunate man’s widow and daughters. In -addition to the gift of cash, the woman received an invitation to bring -her grieving family to the Hills, where care would be arranged for them, -including a teaching post for the eldest daughter. Unfortunately, -neither the widow nor the daughters were in good enough health to be -able to make the rigorous trip, and in consequence they could not avail -themselves of the hospitality and generosity which were so late in -coming. - -Although they had failed to bring the parson’s family to Deadwood, the -worthy citizens were undaunted in their efforts to memorialize this -modest itinerant who had stumbled unwittingly into glory. A great chunk -of sandstone was quarried and a local artist of more verve than ability -proceeded to hack out the parson’s likeness. The statue was eventually -propped over his grave atop Mount Moriah, the cemetery-museum where he -lies alongside Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. Unfortunately souvenir -hunters carried on their unworthy custom over the years, until finally -the battered monument, no longer even recognizable, collapsed. In the -Adams Memorial Hall of Deadwood, however, there can be seen a -certificate signed in Preacher Smith’s very writing, and thus his -handiwork lives along with his legend. - - -All stories of Deadwood in the Black Hills come, eventually, to the -great riddle of Martha Jane Cannary (sometimes spelled Canary), known as -Calamity Jane. - -This gusty female, who rolled around the West for nearly half a century, -has been the subject of more controversy and speculation than almost any -other early-day character. In her lifetime she circulated a brief -autobiography which successfully managed to hide the truth about -practically every aspect of her history. In addition, she manipulated -her drab story in such a way that a whole generation of legend-mongers -accepted her as the “true love” of Wild Bill Hickok, and thus by no -means to be thought of as the drunken harlot she most certainly was. - -By dint of careful searching, however, some few definite facts of her -early life and adventures have been isolated, and upon them at least the -framework of her true story has been constructed. She appears to have -been born in the neighborhood of 1850—add or subtract a year—in -Missouri. Some accounts have it that her father was a Baptist minister, -which is an unimportant sidelight, for young Martha Jane did not stay at -home long enough for any such influence to gnaw its way into her -personality.[2] - -How she managed to get from Missouri to Wyoming while still in her early -teens remains a mystery, but nonetheless her career as a camp follower -started when, at the tender age of fourteen, she arrived in the roaring -outpost of Rawlins. Some tales have it that she had gone west as the -consort of a young army lieutenant, and that her mother, remarried to a -pioneer, found her in that boisterous military town and took her to -Utah. In any event she came back into circulation two years later, for -in 1866 she was duly married to one George White in Cheyenne. Following -this felicitous turn of affairs she and her husband journeyed to Denver, -where he was able to support her in a fine, high style. Unfortunately, -she did not take to this pleasant existence, but shortly began to yearn -after the cavalry. Leaving her husband to his Denver duties, she -appeared all during 1867 and 1868 in various forts throughout Wyoming. -It was at this particular time in her career that she was supposed to -have earned the nickname of Calamity Jane. Undoubtedly the title was -bestowed upon her by barroom companions who had learned the sad truth -that Martha Jane’s appearance on the scene boded a long and arduous -night of drinking; but in her maudlin and confused autobiography she -tells of assisting in an Indian fight and for her splendid services -being gratefully given the name by a Captain Pat Egan. In a later -interview Egan denied this, claiming that the only time he had ever seen -the woman was while escorting her out of a barracks so that the men -could get some sleep. - -From Wyoming she went to Hays City, Kansas, still following the Seventh -Cavalry, her chosen military unit. Six years later she turned up again, -this time disguised as a man and marching with General Crook’s police -force, which was trying to keep settlers out of the Hills. Her -autobiography claims that she also accompanied Custer’s command on its -famous exploratory march, but this does not appear to be true. - -After the discovery of gold in Deadwood, she found the high life in that -town so completely to her liking that she made it her home base. In time -she fastened herself so securely among the legends of the metropolis -that she was thereafter known solely as Calamity Jane of Deadwood. - -Taking advantage of the high romance which surrounded Wild Bill’s name -after his death, Calamity made haste to pass the story around that he -had been her only true love; and although there was no evidence of any -sort that he even knew who she was, her last words, when she died in -1903, were a plea to be buried next to him. - -In the eighties she became restless again and forsook her beloved -Deadwood for two decades, roving as far south as El Paso, and on one -occasion being seen in California. Her activities at this time of her -life are mostly lost from sight, but it may be presumed that as whatever -charms she may earlier have had faded, her interest to and in the -soldiers waned. During this period she married again, this time wedding -a man named Burke, to whom she bore a daughter. She soon tired of Burke, -however, and drifted slowly north again, passing considerable time in -Colorado and then returning briefly to Deadwood in 1895. Even at that -late date the citizens of the gold town had not forgotten her, nor had -the esteem in which she had earlier been held dwindled; when it was -discovered that she lacked funds to care for her daughter, the -townspeople passed the ever present hat and arranged for the care of the -child. This act of generosity was purportedly to repay a great sacrifice -which Calamity Jane had made in the earlier days, braving the dangers of -the smallpox scourge of 1878 to nurse whoever was ill and without help. -This particular legend has had wide currency in the West, its closest -variant being the tale of Silver Heels, a dancing girl who visited the -mining camps of Colorado’s South Park in the sixties. Silver Heels is -popularly supposed to have ministered to the miners during a similar -plague, for which bravery a near-by mountain was named for her. - -After placing her child in a school, Calamity, who was destitute, betook -herself to the vaudeville circuit. Inasmuch as through the dime novels -she had already become a well-known national figure, she was able for a -while to draw large crowds. Had it not been for her unfortunate habit of -getting dead drunk before show time, she might well have amassed a -competence over the years. But her first contract was not renewed, and -after a brief whirl at the Buffalo Exposition she returned to the West, -spending the next several years in Montana. - -At last she came home to Deadwood, a sick and broken old roustabout. By -this time she was nothing more than a bar-fly, and she lived out her -last days panhandling food and liquor money from strangers. At last, on -August 2, 1903, she died of pneumonia. - -Deadwood turned out in force for her funeral. As she had requested, she -was buried near Wild Bill Hickok on Mount Moriah, overlooking the town. -That she had never really known Wild Bill was quite beside the point, -and anyway, there was none present who knew whether she had or not. The -shoddy story of her “love” for Hickok was nothing that interested the -old timers, but was saved for historians to untangle. That she was no -more than an alcoholic old harlot was of no consequence, either, to the -good citizens, for with her passing the last of the great names of the -frontier was coming home to rest. That the townspeople were proud of -her, and genuinely so, was not to be denied, although there was most -certainly nobody present at that melancholy service who could have told -why. The truth of the matter was that they were burying not a broken old -woman, but the last of the Black Hills legends. - - - - - CHAPTER SIX - The White River Badlands - - -Any visit to the Black Hills must also be the occasion of a tour, at -least for a few hours, of the famous South Dakota Badlands. This -fantastic National Monument is not a part of the Hills, either -geographically or historically, but because the two regions lie so close -together—a scant fifty miles apart—they are expediently linked as two -great natural wonders in the same region. - -The term “badlands” has a loose scientific acceptance, meaning any -region where a specific type of heavy erosion has taken place. Such -regions usually have subnormal rainfall and sparse vegetation. Those -rains that do occur, then, find little on the earth’s surface to prevent -almost complete runoff, which is so vigorous as to act as a powerful -cutting agent. The final ingredients of a badlands are rock formations -known as unconsolidated—lacking any general unity of structure which -might tend to withstand erosion. When all these conditions exist, the -devastation of the rushing flood waters is without pattern, a great gash -being carved in one spot while no damage is visible on a near-by -outcropping. The end result is an almost frightening collection of -gruesome stone monuments rising to the sky and marking the heights once -reached by a general plateau. - -Actually, much of the high western plain abutting on the Rocky Mountains -is basic badland formation, and small pockets of distinct erosion can be -seen all through eastern Colorado, western Nebraska, and eastern -Wyoming, in addition to the vast depression in the valleys of the White -and Cheyenne rivers in South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five -miles long and five to fifteen miles wide, is the largest and from the -geologist’s point of view the most important of all such regions in the -world. Desolate, empty, seared by ages of sun and wind, it is now a -great gash in the earth’s flesh which exposes to view rock and soil -strata that measure a great span of earth’s history. - -In addition to the splendid opportunity to see and study the various -layers of the earth’s surface going back as far as sixty million years, -the very composition of badlands formations makes any such region a -veritable museum of fossils and petrified animal relics. The South -Dakota Badlands have turned up absolute treasures of such -paleontological finds, enabling scientists to trace the evolution of -mammalian life all the way back to the appearance on earth of the first -carnivorous animals—the vastly distant ancestors of the dog. And the -Badlands are noted not only for the great span in geologic time of their -fossil beds, but also for the number of different types which have been -found in their ancient soil, more than 250 different prehistoric animals -having been discovered in various stages of fossilized preservation in -this general region. - -The tourist, though, need not be even an amateur student of geology or -paleontology to be thrilled and awed by a visit to this grotesque but -beautiful area. The mere colors of the various rock strata, ever -changing under the light patterns of sun and cloud, provide a -never-to-be-forgotten experience. One of the most articulate tributes to -the grandeur of the Badlands is that of Frank Lloyd Wright: - - Speaking of our trip to the South Dakota Badlands, I’ve been about the - world a lot and pretty much over our own country but I was totally - unprepared for the revelation called the Badlands. What I saw gave me - an indescribable sense of the mysterious otherwhere—a distant - architecture, ethereal, touched, only touched, with a sense of - Egyptian-Mayan drift and silhouette. As we came closer, a templed - realm definitely stood ambient in the air before my astonished - “scene”-loving but “scene”-jaded gaze. - - Yes, I say the aspects of the South Dakota Badlands have more - spiritual quality to impart to the mind of America than anything else - in it made by Man’s God. - -The word “badlands,” which now has a genuine scientific meaning, was -taken into our vocabulary from the folk name for this very region. In -the earliest days of North American exploration, far back before the -Revolution, French trappers had braved this empty wasteland on their -endless quest for new fur grounds, and had brought back tales of this -lost world of silence and strange shapes. They were the ones who gave it -the name Badlands, but they were only translating directly the Sioux -name, Mako Sika, which meant, precisely, lands bad for traveling. - -To the early explorers the badlands meant only that—high escarpments to -be overcome; twisting, winding, endless canyons from which there were no -outlets; crumbling rock underfoot on the three-hundred-foot crawls from -the canyon bottoms to the table-tops; and the hot, shimmering distances -of this forbidding terrain as far as the eye could see. - -It was, as a matter of fact, the existence of this area that helped keep -the Black Hills nothing more than an empty question mark on maps until -the rumors of gold began to circulate. The first American explorers, who -might have discovered the natural wonders of the Hills in the 1820’s, -found their paths diverted to the north and the south by this impassable -valley, and consequently missed the Hills. - -The first reliable record of the wonders of this lost world was dated -1847. That year, it will be remembered, was one of great moment in the -history of the western movement—the year that Brigham Young braved the -high prairies and pathless mountains with his great exodus, settling an -empire on the shores of Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails -were fairly well established by then, his was the first of the true -migrations, and the gold rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and -the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come. - -In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor Hiram A. Prout of St. -Louis came somehow into contact with a representative of the American -Fur Company, which ran substantial trapping operations all up the wide -Missouri and its tributaries. How this meeting came about is lost to -record, but we do know that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a -souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands of Dakota—a fragment -of the lower jaw of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be quarried -out of the region and used for scientific purposes. - -In that same year a second Badlands fossil turned up, this one a -well-preserved head of an ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the -great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true academic ardor both of these -gentlemen, Leidy and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly -print, describing in learned journals the nature of their trophies. -Enjoying the slender circulation of academic publication, the essays -which described these fossil wonders eventually found their way into the -offices of the government’s geological survey, which acted quickly to -dispatch an expedition to the overlooked region of their origin. - -That first exploring party, the David Owen Survey, went into the field -in 1849. A prominent scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached to -the group, and from his pen we have several sketches of this pioneer -adventure into the empty wastelands. If these drawings look more like -studies of Dante’s Inferno than like the breath-taking Badlands as they -really are, it must be remembered that such geological formations had -never before been visited by the members of that party, and, being -completely alien to the America of their knowledge, impressed them every -bit as a visit to the moon might have done. - -The Owens party was merely the vanguard of the great army of brave men -and women who have ever since made their dangerous ways into the -remotest distances of the mountain and desert West, seeking neither -riches of gold nor riches of land, but only more minute bits of the -knowledge of the world of our past. Archeologists, geologists, and -paleontologists from universities and learned societies the world over -have spent liberally of their time, energies, and personal safety to -scout out the secrets of mankind’s past in such remote corners of the -earth as the Badlands. Year after year additional expeditions, both -governmental and privately organized, made their way into this -particular area, seeking out the fossil remains which turned up in great -numbers. - -V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological Survey was one of the most -diligent of the early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands in -1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying on detailed and exhaustive studies -and eventually unraveling the story of the region’s major geologic -features. - -As Hayden’s reports became more and more widely circulated, various -universities found projects of specific interest in one or another phase -of the work of uncovering fossil beds; and from year to year Yale, -Princeton, Amherst, the universities of South Dakota and Nebraska, and -other institutions sent groups into the Badlands for summer work. -Gradually, as these several groups exchanged information and reports of -progress, it became possible for their scientists to trace back, through -the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals, the very processes of the -evolution of many entire families in the animal kingdom. Not only are -the fossil beds of the Badlands as richly stocked with remains as any -such bed in the world, but in a great many instances entire groups of -three, four, and five whole skeletons have been found, making it -possible for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly the animals as -they existed and to set up models of the terrain at various intervals -throughout its entire sixty-million-year history. - -Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as view-worthy section of the -Badlands is Sheep Mountain, located at the far west end of the Monument. -Down from the summit runs a great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon, -named for the fact that the South Dakota State School of Mines at Rapid -City long ago chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological -research. Under the guidance of famed Dr. Cleophas O’Harra, for many -years president of that institution, groups of Mines students went on -extended annual encampments on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among other -rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric midget horse, the -saber-toothed tiger, and camels. It was this last discovery that lent -considerable support to the concept, conjectural at the time of Dr. -O’Harra’s discoveries, that a land bridge had once connected North -America and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples and animals from the -old world into the new. School of Mines Canyon, while some distance off -the main highway leading from Pierre to the Black Hills, is by all means -worth the time required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen miles -from the town of Scenic. - -The Badlands are reached by Highway 14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming -from the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take route 40 directly -to the town of Scenic, forty-seven miles distant. From Scenic, in -addition to connecting with the side trip to Sheep Mountain, 40 -continues along the north wall of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass -and out the east end of the region, merging at Kadoka with Highway 16, -or, by means of a nine-mile connection, with 14. - -Should the weather be bad and State 40 not recommended by local -informers, the route is out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five -miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access road through the -Pinnacles, down into the Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar Pass, -and joining State 40. - -From the east, Highway 16 goes through Kadoka, from which town State 40 -should be taken, leading in through Cedar Pass, and out either through -Scenic and on to Rapid City, or at the Pinnacles, through Wall and back -on 14-16. Coming from Pierre on 14, the tourist must leave that highway -a few miles beyond the town of Philip and make the nine-mile detour on -16 to Kadoka, from there going on to Cedar Pass as described. - -Several railroads serve the Badlands and its general region, notably the -Chicago & Northwestern, the Burlington, and the Chicago, Milwaukee, and -St. Paul. This last road, the “Milwaukee,” offers the traveler the best -view of the region, winding up the White River Valley the entire -sixty-five miles between Kadoka and Scenic, and providing the passenger -with unparalleled if hasty views of some of the most rugged and isolated -portions of all the area. - - - - - Bibliography - - -Allsman, Paul T. _Reconnaissance of Gold Mining Districts in the Black - Hills, South Dakota._ U.S. Bureau of Mines, No. 427. Washington, - D. C.: U.S. Dept. of Interior, 1940. - -Baldwin, G. P., editor. _The Black Hills Illustrated._ Philadelphia: - Baldwin Syndicate, 1904. - -Carpenter, F. R. _The Mineral Resources of the Black Hills._ South - Dakota School of Mines Preliminary Report, No. 1. Rapid City: - South Dakota School of Mines, 1888. - -Casey, Robert J. _The Black Hills._ New York: Bobbs-Merrill Co., 1949. - -Dick, Everett. _Vanguards of the Frontier._ New York: D. - Appleton-Century Co., 1941. - -Eloe, Frank. “Rushmore Cave,” _Black Hills Engineer_, XXIV (December, - 1938), 274. - -Fenton, C. L. “South Dakota’s Badlands,” _Nature Magazine_, XXIV - (August, 1941), 370-74. - -Glasscock, C. B. _The Big Bonanza._ Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill Co., - 1931. - -Hans, Fred. _The Great Sioux Nation._ Chicago: Donahue, 1907. - -Hayden, F. V. and Meek, F. B. “Remarks on Geology of the Black Hills,” - _Academy of Natural Science Proceedings._ Philadelphia: Academy of - Natural Science, 1858, X, 41-59. - -Hough, Emerson. _The Passing of the Frontier._ New Haven: Yale - University Press, 1921. - -Kingsbury, G. W. _History of Dakota Territory._ Chicago: The S. J. - Clarke Co., 1915. - -Lake, Stuart. _Wyatt Earp._ Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1931. - -Mirsky, Jeannette. _The Westward Crossings._ New York: Alfred A. Knopf, - 1946. - -Newton, Henry. _Geology of the Black Hills._ Washington, D. C.: United - States Geographical and Geological Survey, 1880. - -O’Harra, C. C. “The Gold Mining Industry of the Black Hills,” _Black - Hills Engineer_, XIX (January, 1931), 3-9. - -——. _The White River Badlands._ Department of Geology, No. 13. Rapid - City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1920. - -Rothrach, E. P. _A Hydrologic Study of the White River Valley. South - Dakota Geological Survey Report._ Vermillion, South Dakota: - University of South Dakota, February, 1942. - -Todd, James Edward. _A Preliminary Report on the Geology of South - Dakota._ South Dakota Geological Survey, No. 1. Vermillion: - University of South Dakota, 1894. - -Tullis, E. L. “The Geology of the Black Hills,” _Black Hills Engineer_, - XXV (April, 1939), 26-38. - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]For an account of the history and natural wonders of Estes Park, - readers are referred to a previous book in this series, _Estes Park: - Resort in the Rockies_, by Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam. - -[2]A treasured manuscript journal kept by the author’s great-uncle, who - was for many years curator of the Colorado State Historical - Society’s museum in Denver, reports an interview with Calamity Jane - some time before her death which convinced him that the facts were - substantially as they are stated here. - - On the other hand, Mr. Will G. Robinson, the eminent State Historian - of South Dakota, reports: “On the authority of Dr. McGillicuddy, who - was a medico at Ft. Laramie, and whose original letter I have, I - would be entirely certain that she was born at Ft. Laramie, of a - couple by the name of Dalton. Dalton was a soldier, was discharged - and went out a short distance west to LaBonte. Here he was killed by - Indians, although his wife got back into the fort with one eye - gouged out, after which she shortly died. Her child got her - name—Calamity—by reason of this disaster. She was not much over 40 - when she died in 1903.” - - The discrepancy between these two accounts, both studiously - researched and documented by men whose professional careers have - been given over to solving puzzles of this nature with which western - history abounds, is typical of the disagreement among - well-authenticated reports of the birth and early life of this - female enigma. - - In any event, it is a matter which is still subject to a maximum - amount of conjecture, and for a much more complete account of the - variant clues readers are enthusiastically referred to Nolie Mumey’s - _Calamity Jane_ (Denver: Privately printed, 1949). - - - - - Index - - - A - Abilene (Kan.), 84, 98 - Adams Memorial Museum, 103, 107 - Alaska, 73 - Algonkian Period, 19 - American Fur Company, 120 - Amherst College, 122 - Anchor City (S.D.), 63 - Archean Period, 17-18 - Archean sea, 20 - Atlantic (Iowa), 88 - - - B - Badlands, White River, 4, 6, 42, 115-17 - Bass, Sam, 79-81, 82-83, 85, 90 - Battle Mountain, 7 - Beadle & Adams, 90, 95 - Beaver Creek, 86 - Belle Fourche (S.D.), 6 - Belle Fourche River, 56 - Belle Fourche Round-up, 46 - Big Horn Basin, 66 - Big Horn River, 53 - Bismarck (S.D.), 53 - Black Bart, 78 - Black Hills & Badlands Assn., 44 - Black Hills Range Days, 46 - Black Hills Teachers College, 12 - Black Moon (Indian Chief), 66 - Blackfeet tribe, 49 - Blodgett, Sam, 71 - Borglum, Gutzon, 37-39 - Bozeman Trail, 51-53 - Brule tribe, 49, 52 - “Broken Hand.” _See_ Fitzpatrick, Thomas - Buffalo Bill, 99 - Burlington Railroad, 8 - - - C - Calamity Jane, 77, 90-91, 94, 107-11 - _Calamity Jane_, 109 - California, 47, 50, 62, 75 - Cambrian Period, 19-20 - Cambrian sea, 20 - Canyon Springs, 86, 89 - Carlsbad Caverns, 28, 43 - Carson, Kit, 55 - Cathedral Park, 33 - Central City (S.D.), 63 - Cheyenne (Wyo.), 4, 59-61, 69, 80-81, 86, 89, 99 - Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage, 69, 80 - Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage, 4, 9 - Cheyenne Indians, 7 - Cheyenne River, 116 - Chicago (Ill.), 6, 34, 49 - Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, 7 - Clarke, Dick, 93 - Colorado, 32-33, 47, 58 - Coolidge, President Calvin, 31, 38, 93 - Crazy Horse (Indian Chief), 40, 52, 54, 61, 65-67 - Cripple Creek (Colo.), 72 - Crocker, Charles, 78 - Crook, General, 59, 64-66, 110 - Crystal Cave, 23 - Custer (S.D.), 6, 9, 10-11, 30-31, 40, 42-43, 46, 59, 61, 63, - 70-71, 105 - Custer, General George Armstrong, 1, 10, 54-57, 64-67, 78, 80 - Custer State Park, 19, 30 - Custer’s Last Stand, 68 - - - D - Darrall, Duke, 90 - Days of ’76, 46, 92 - Dead Man’s Hand (poker), 95 - Deadtree Gulch, 71 - Deadwood (S.D.), 4, 11, 20, 46, 69, 81-84, 86, 91, 99, 101, 105-6, - 110-11 - Deadwood City (S.D.), 76 - Deadwood Dick, 77, 90-94 - Deadwood Dick, Jr., 92 - Deadwood Gulch, 10, 46, 71, 73 - Denver (Colo.), 3-4, 49, 60, 96, 109 - Devonian Period, 22 - Dodge, General Grenville, 51 - Dodge City (Kan.), 84 - - - E - Earp, Wyatt, 84-86 - Egan, Capt. Pat, 110 - Estes Park, 3 - Evans, Fred T., 7 - Evans Hotel, 7 - Evans, John, 120 - - - F - Fair, James, 78 - Fellows, Dick, 78 - Fitzpatrick, Thomas, 50 - Fort Ellis, 64 - Fort Fetterman, 64 - Fort Laramie, 50-52, 57 - Fort Lincoln, 53, 57 - Fort Pierre, 7, 13, 80 - Fort Sully, 51 - French Creek, 57, 69, 70 - - - G - Gall (Indian Chief), 66 - Game Lodge, 31-33 - Gayville (S.D.), 63 - Gibbon, General John, 64-65 - Gold, discovered in the Black Hills, 3 - Gold Discovery Days, 11, 46 - Golden Gate (S.D.), 63 - Golden Star mine, 73 - Golden Terra mine, 73, 75 - Gordon party, 60 - Great Plains, 49 - - - H - Haggin, James Ben Ali, 74 - Harney Peak, 1, 19, 32, 35-36, 40 - Harney-Sanborne Treaty, 53 - Hayden, V. F., 121 - Hays City (Kan.), 98, 110 - Hearst, Senator George, 74-75 - Hearst, William Randolph, 74 - Hickok, Wild Bill, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Hinckley’s Overland Express, 96 - Homestake Mine, 69, 72-76, 80, 87, 89 - Homestake Mining Co., 75 - Hot Springs (S.D.), 6, 8-9, 11, 29, 34 - - - I - Ice Cave, 43-44 - Inkpaduta (Indian Chief), 66 - _Inter-Ocean_, 58 - - - J - Jefferson, President Thomas, 37, 39 - Jenney Stockade, 86 - Jennings, Dr., 7 - Jewel Cave, 11, 23, 42, 44 - Jones, Seth, 90 - Julesburg (Colo.), 97 - - - K - Kansas, 96 - Kansas City (Mo.), 49 - Kind, Ezra, 48 - - - L - Lake, Agnes, 99 - Laramie (Wyo.), 61 - Last Chance Gulch, 73 - Lead (S.D.), 75 - _Legend of Sam Bass_, 79 - Leidy, Dr. Joseph, 120 - Lincoln, President Abraham, 37, 39 - Lincoln Highway, 4 - Little Big Horn River, 10, 68 - Luenen (Germany), 12 - - - Mc - McCall, Jack, 95, 100-102 - McCanles gang, 96, 98 - McKay, William T., 54, 56 - - - M - Manuel, Fred, 73-75 - Manuel, Moses, 73-75 - Meier, Joseph, 12 - Miles City (Mont.), 6 - Minneapolis (Minn.), 6 - Minnekahta Canyon, 7 - Minnesota, 50 - Minniconjou tribe, 49 - Mississippian Period, 22 - Missouri, 97, 108 - Missouri River, 2, 6, 49, 53, 88 - Missouri Valley, 48, 50 - Mogollon (mountains), 63 - Montana, 10, 47, 51, 64 - Mount Coolidge, 41 - Mount Evans, 33 - Mount Moriah Cemetery, 103, 107, 113 - Mount Rushmore, 37, 39, 40-41 - Mount Washington, 32 - Mumey, Nolie, 109 - Murietta, Joaquin, 78 - - - N - National Park Service, 28, 30, 43, 45 - Nebraska, 42, 54, 88 - Needles, The, 33 - Needles Highway, 33-35 - Nevada, 47 - Newcastle (Wyo.), 43 - Niobrara River, 54 - North America, 17, 20, 24, 75 - North Platte River, 2, 64 - Number Ten, 99-100 - - - O - Oglala tribe, 49, 52, 65 - O’Harra, Dr. Cleophas, 123 - Omaha (Neb.), 4, 49 - Ordovician Period, 22 - Oregon Trail, 51 - Oregon-California Trail, 2 - Owen Survey, 120 - - - P - Paha Sapa (Indian name for Black Hills), 2, 4, 7, 9, 10, 48 - Paleozoic Era, 19 - Passion Play, 72 - Pearson, John, 71-72 - Pierre (S.D.), 2, 6, 51 - Pikes Peak, 58, 62 - Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, 40 - Platte River, 50 - Platte River-Oregon Trail, 49 - Platte Valley, 60, 96 - Portland-Independence Mine, 72 - Powder River Valley, 65 - Preacher Smith, 90-91, 104-5 - Princeton University, 122 - Prout, Prof. Hiram, 119-20 - - - R - Rapid City (S.D.), 4, 6-7, 11, 13-14, 31, 46, 49 - Rawlins (Wyo.), 109 - Red Cloud (Indian Chief), 52-53 - Reno, Major, 67-68 - Reynolds, Charley, 57 - Rhodes, Eugene Manlove, 18 - Rio Grande Valley, 19 - Robinson, Will, 108 - Rocky Mountains, 1, 3, 15, 34, 37, 50, 62, 96, 116 - Roosevelt, President Theodore, 37, 39 - Rosebud Creek, 65 - Ross, H. N., 55 - - - S - St. Joseph (Mo.), 49, 96 - St. Louis (Mo.), 49, 57 - St. Paul (Minn.), 49 - San Arc tribe, 49 - San Francisco (Calif.), 74-75 - Santa Fe Trail, 49 - Santee Sioux, 50 - School of Mines Canyon, 123 - Seventh Cavalry, 110 - Sheridan, General Phil, 56-57 - Sidney (Neb.), 13, 61, 69, 75, 80 - Sidney Short Route, 80 - Silurian Period, 22 - Silver Heels, 112 - Sioux Indians, 7, 61, 63 - Sioux War, 69 - Sitting Bull (Indian Chief), 54, 64, 66-67 - Smith, Rev. Henry. _See_ Preacher Smith - South Dakota, 2, 4, 13, 30, 36, 44, 93 - Spearfish (S.D.), 6, 11, 13, 48 - Spencer, Joseph, 34 - Springfield (Mo.), 97 - Standing Bear (Indian Chief), 40 - Stanford, Leland, 78 - Sunday Creek, 35 - Sylvan Lake, 33-36, 39 - - - T - _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, 103 - Terry, General, 63-64 - Teton Sioux, 2, 49 - Texas Rangers, 79 - Thoen, Louis, 48 - Thunderhead Mountain, 40-41 - _Trial of Jack McCall, The_, 103 - Triassic Period, 24 - Two Kettle tribe, 49 - - - U - Union Pacific Railroad, 13, 49, 58, 80 - University of Nebraska, 122 - University of South Dakota, 122 - Unkpapa tribe, 49 - Ussher, Archbishop James, 17 - Utah, 109 - - - V - Vale of Minnekahta, 7 - Virginia City (Nev.), 73 - - - W - War Department, 59 - Washington (D.C.), 58, 61, 93 - Washington, President George, 37, 39, 91 - Wells Fargo, 74, 83-84 - Wheeler, Edward L., 91 - White, George, 109 - White River, 116 - White River Badlands. _See_ Badlands - Wild Bill Hickok, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Wind Cave, 23, 27-29, 42-44 - Wind Cave Park, 41 - Witwatersrand, 72 - Wood Lake, battle of, 51 - Wright, Frank Lloyd, 117 - Wyoming, 4, 9, 32, 42, 86 - - - Y - Yale University, 122 - Yankton (S.D.), 102 - - - Z - Ziolkowski, Korczak, 40-41, 103 - - - $2.50 - - - THE BLACK HILLS - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - -From taboo Indian fastness to roaring gold camp to modern resort and -recreation area—so runs the history of the Black Hills, Paha Sapa of the -Indians, which are really not hills at all but mountains, the highest -east of the Rockies. Back through geologic ages the story extends, to -the thunderous time when Nature fashioned the intricate formations of -the Hills and their companion geologic marvel, the Badlands. - -Here, in racy and fluent prose, Albert N. Williams has brought the full -sweep of this story to life, from its beginning in the mighty geologic -upheaval that, before the Alps had been formed, thrust the giant spire -of Harney Peak up through the ancient shale, to the present quiet rest -of man-made Sylvan Lake, where it lies peacefully reflecting its great -granite shields for the delight of the traveler. - -On the way he tells of the discovery of gold in this “mysterious and -brooding dark mountain-land” just when gold-hungry men had decided that -the bonanza days were gone forever; of the Indian fighting that reached -its tragic climax at the Little Big Horn; of the development of the -Homestake, one of earth’s greatest mines; of the hazardous stage-coach -journeys on which “shotgun messengers” guarded chests of bullion; and, -most fascinating of all, of the amazing personalities—Sam Bass and Wyatt -Earp and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane and Preacher Smith—who -inhabited the Hills in their gaudiest days or, like Deadwood Dick, lived -a no less vivid life in the pages of dime novels. - -If this were all, _The Black Hills_ would be a book for any lover of our -country’s natural glories and thrilling history to pick up and be unable -to lay down again until he had finished it. But other chapters directed -particularly to the tourist make it also a book for the traveler to keep -always with him and to consult at every point in his journey through the -Black Hills. All he needs to know is here—the highways to take into the -Hills, the towns with their historic plays and celebrations, the peaks -and lakes and caves he will find, the sports he may enjoy, the places -where he may stay. A trip so guided cannot fail to be filled with the -excitement the author himself has found in the Black Hills, of which he -says that in his opinion “no other resort area in the United States -possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions.” - - -Albert N. Williams was for many years a writer for NBC in New York, and -for two years Editor-in-Chief of the English features section of the -Voice of America. He is the author of _Listening_, _Rocky Mountain -Country_, _The Water and the Power_, and numerous short fiction pieces -in national magazines. He is at present Director of Development of the -University of Denver. - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - Southern Methodist University Press - Dallas 5, Texas - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - -***** This file should be named 55088-0.txt or 55088-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/8/55088/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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margin-left:0; text-indent:0; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort - American Resort Series No. 4 - -Author: Albert Nathaniel Williams - -Release Date: July 11, 2017 [EBook #55088] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort" width="484" height="800" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img id="insidecov" src="images/icover.jpg" alt="The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort" width="492" height="799" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1><span class="large">The Black Hills</span> -<br /><span class="smallest">MID-CONTINENT RESORT</span></h1> -<p class="center"><span class="smaller">BY</span> <span class="large"><b>Albert N. Williams</b></span></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="Southern Methodist University Press Logo" width="200" height="224" /> -</div> -<p class="center smaller">AMERICAN RESORT SERIES NO. 4</p> -<p class="center">Southern Methodist University Press -<br /><span class="small">1952</span></p> -</div> -<p class="center smaller">COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY -<br />SOUTHERN METHODIST UNIVERSITY PRESS -<br />PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA -<br />BY AMERICAN BOOK—STRATFORD PRESS, INC., NEW YORK</p> -<p class="tbcenter">AMERICAN RESORT SERIES</p> -<dl class="undent"><dt>No. 1: <span class="sc">Gatlinburg: Gateway to the Great Smokies</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue</i></dt> -<dt>No. 2: <span class="sc">Taxco: Mexico’s Silver City</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue</i></dt> -<dt>No. 3: <span class="sc">Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies</span>, <i>by Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam</i></dt> -<dt>No. 4: <span class="sc">The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort</span>, <i>by Albert N. Williams</i></dt></dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_v">v</div> -<p class="tbcenter">For Chris</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_vii">vii</div> -<h2><span class="small">Acknowledgments</span></h2> -<p>The research on early Black Hills and Badlands history -was ably assisted by Miss June Carothers, -whose services were provided the author through a -generous grant-in-aid by the University of Denver’s -Bureau of Humanities and Social Development.</p> -<p>Miss Ina T. Aulls, Mrs. Alys Freeze, Mrs. Opal -Harber, Miss Margery Bedinger, Mrs. Margaret -Simonds, Mrs. Elizabeth Kingston, and Mrs. Clara -Cutright, all of the Denver Public Library, are particularly -to be thanked for placing the resources of -that institution at my disposal.</p> -<p>For assistance in preparing the manuscript, I wish -to thank Miss Helen Kiamos, Miss Edith Goldfarb, -and Miss Lillian Helling.</p> -<p>I am indebted to Bell Photo of Rapid City for the -photograph of the Needles highway; to Ned Perrigoue -of Rapid City for that of Sylvan Lake; to the -Denver Public Library Western Collection for those -of Calamity Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Deadwood -Gulch in 1881; and to Mr. A. H. Pankow of the -South Dakota State Highway Commission for that -of a Black Hills stream.</p> -<p>And finally, as always, thanks go to my wife, Ann, -for her patient editorial help.</p> -<p><span class="lr"><span class="sc">Albert N. Williams</span></span></p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>University of Denver</i></p> -<p class="t0"><i>Denver, Colorado</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_viii">viii</div> -<h3>Books by Albert N. Williams</h3> -<p class="center small">LISTENING -<br />ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUNTRY -<br />THE WATER AND THE POWER -<br />THE BOOK BY MY SIDE</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_ix">ix</div> -<h2 class="center">Contents</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="cn">I </span>The Black Hills: The Forbidden Land</a> 1</dt> -<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="cn">II </span>The Formation of the Black Hills</a> 15</dt> -<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="cn">III </span>The Hills Today</a> 27</dt> -<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="cn">IV </span>History I: Indians and Gold</a> 47</dt> -<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="cn">V </span>History II: Deadwood Days</a> 78</dt> -<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="cn">VI </span>The White River Badlands</a> 115</dt> -<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="cn"> </span>Bibliography</a> 126</dt> -<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="cn"> </span>Index</a> 127</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_xi">xi</div> -<h1 title="">Illustrations</h1> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><a href="#fig1">Along the Needles Highway</a> <i>facing page</i> 34</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig2">Harney Peak—older by ages than the Rockies</a> 35</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig3">The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial</a> 50</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig4">Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an elevation of 6,250 feet</a> 51</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig5">Calamity Jane, during her carnival days</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig6">Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig7">Cheyenne—Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun messengers</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig8">Deadwood Gulch in 1881</a> 83</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig9">Modern Deadwood—seventy years later</a> 83</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig10">One of the Black Hills’ many streams</a> 98</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig11">The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared</a> 99</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_xiii">xiii</div> -<h2><span class="small">Introduction</span></h2> -<p>I have had an opportunity to enjoy one of the -most readable accounts of the Black Hills I -have ever come across. It is written to acquaint -traveling America with an area which was long -off the beaten path of tourists, and which has -only during the past quarter century been recognized -as a place where people who wish to -“Know America First” may profitably spend -some time.</p> -<p>Mr. Williams has outlined the historical reason -why this small wonderland was so long outside -the consciousness of America, and he has -devoted a chapter to telling about the methods -of nature in producing the intricacies of this -formation, older by far than the Alps or the -Himalayas. He has made the subject live, and -he includes enough expert terminology to -satisfy the reader that he knows whereof he -speaks.</p> -<p>In his chapter on “The Hills Today” Mr. -Williams outlines what the tourist should see, -and how to see it. For that chapter alone his -book would be well worth the attention of -<span class="pb" id="Page_xiv">xiv</span> -every prospective sight-seer. He has two chapters -pertaining to the history of the region, the -first speculating on how the whole economic -growth of the West might well have been -altered had a confirmed story of “gold in the -Black Hills” been released fifty years before -it was spread-eagled on the pages of the <i>Chicago -Inter-Ocean</i>. It is an interesting speculation, -and he gives it a pleasing reality.</p> -<p>Another chapter deals with the lives of some -of the characters exploited and given semi-permanent -fame by the old dime novels. Deadwood -without these characters would be just -another picturesque town set down in a mountain -valley; with them it becomes one of America’s -better-known hot spots, vying with the -Klondike and Leadville.</p> -<p>Mr. Williams’ last chapter on the Badlands, -a neighboring phenomenon, a place of amazing -mystery and strange disorder, serves to depict -what might be termed the undepictable in -terms exactly calculated to excite the reader’s -absorbed interest.</p> -<p><span class="lr"><span class="sc">Will G. Robinson</span></span></p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>South Dakota State Historical Society</i></p> -<p class="t0"><i>Pierre, South Dakota</i></p> -<p class="t0"><i>December 17, 1951</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER ONE</span></span> -<br />The Black Hills: -<br />The Forbidden Land</h2> -<p>The thing to remember is that the Black -Hills are not hills at all. They are mountains, -the highest mountains east of the Rockies, -with Harney Peak rising to a height of -7,242 feet above sea level. Inasmuch as the -prairie floor averages, at the four entrances to -the Hills, only 3,200 feet in elevation, these -are mountains of considerable stature.</p> -<p>The title “hills” was by no means given the -area by early white settlers. Indeed, if that -majestic domain had not already been named -the Black Hills by the Indians, George Armstrong -Custer, who in 1874 made the first full-scale -exploration of the region, would no doubt -have dignified it with a more appropriate and -<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span> -properly descriptive name—the Sioux or the -Dakota Mountains, in all probability.</p> -<p>From time beyond remembrance, however, -the region had been known to the Indians as -Paha Sapa, exactly to be translated as “Black -Hills,” and very properly that name was accepted -by government geographers. The use -of the word “black” possibly fulfilled several -functions, for not only do these massive peaks -appear decidedly black when seen against the -horizon across distances as great as a hundred -miles, but they were, to the superstitious braves -of the Teton Sioux, the abode of the Thunders -and studiously to be avoided.</p> -<p>This taboo fastness was one of the last regions -in the great American West to be explored -and settled. For one reason, it enjoyed -an isolation from the centers of development -that served to discourage any but the most -hardy of explorers. Lying in the extreme western -end of present-day South Dakota, the -Black Hills were two hundred miles west of -the settlements around Pierre, on the Missouri -River, and two hundred miles north of the -towns along the North Platte, the valley of -the Oregon-California Trail. The most important -reason, though, for its belated opening was -that gold was not discovered in the Black Hills -<span class="pb" id="Page_3">3</span> -until 1874, and it was the discovery of gold in -various sections which more than any other -single set of circumstances dictated the pattern -of the development of the trans-Mississippi -West.</p> -<p>Even today this fascinating region remains -nearly the most remote of all America’s resort -and recreation areas. The Grand Canyon lies -but an hour’s drive from a major east-west -transcontinental highway. Estes Park,<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> in the -Rockies, is only seventy miles from the city of -Denver. Glacier Park is easily served by the -Great Northern Railroad on its overland run, -and Yellowstone enjoys direct service by three -railroads. But the Black Hills lie beyond the -privileges of railroad stopovers, and in order to -visit them the tourist has no choice but to plan -a vacation trip for the sake of the Hills themselves -and not as a side venture from any of -the traditional tours of the West. The Hills -are worth the effort.</p> -<p>The Black Hills occupy a rectangular realm -which is roughly one hundred miles long, north -to south, and fifty miles across its east-west -<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span> -axis. The White River Badlands, which are -customarily visited on any Black Hills trip, -form a depression in the high prairies some -forty miles long and fifteen miles across the -widest part. This stark and empty waste is to -be found some seventy-five miles east of the -Black Hills, or, more precisely, east of Rapid -on U.S. Highway 14-16.</p> -<p>There are five major access routes to the -land of Paha Sapa. From the west, which is to -say from Yellowstone Park, five hundred miles -distant, the Hills can be reached by U.S. Highways -14 and 16. These routes come in together -across the high plains of northern Wyoming, -and separate a few hours’ drive from the South -Dakota border, 14 veering to the north and 16 -continuing through the central section of the -Hills.</p> -<p>From the south, U.S. 85 comes up from -Denver, four hundred miles distant, crossing -the Lincoln Highway at Cheyenne, and continuing -along the route of the old Cheyenne-Deadwood -stage.</p> -<p>From Omaha and points in the southeast, -the Hills are best reached over U.S. 20 across -the top side of Nebraska. Although this route -is not a major east-west route for interstate -tourists, it serves a busy agricultural section -and is generally in fine repair.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="The Black Hills; The Badlands" width="500" height="776" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<p>From the east U.S. 14 and 16, again, bring -the tourist through Pierre, on the Missouri -River, past the Badlands, and into the Hills -through Rapid City. From Minneapolis the -distance is just over six hundred miles, while -from Chicago it is very nearly a thousand.</p> -<p>For those entering the region from the -north, U.S. 12 from Miles City, Montana, is -in all probability the best route.</p> -<p>The gateways to the Black Hills are the -towns of Hot Springs in the south, Rapid City -on the eastern edge, Spearfish or Belle Fourche -at the north, and Custer in the west. All -these towns offer entirely acceptable accommodations -for a touring family; in fact, no one -need drive more than twenty or thirty miles -from any point in the area to find suitable lodgings -at a desired rate.</p> -<p>Hot Springs, on U.S. 18-85A and State 87, -is situated at an altitude of 3,443 feet and has -a population of approximately five thousand. -It is the one sector of the Black Hills that does -not owe its original development to the gold -rush of the seventies, but was sought out from -the earliest days for its natural thermal -springs.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<p>The town is located in a large bowl of the -southern hills known as the Vale of Minnekahta, -from the Sioux name for “warm waters.” -Situated as it is on the rim of the Hills -region, it was not included in the general taboo -that cloaked the rest of Paha Sapa to the -north; and for nearly a century before its discovery -by the white man in 1875, it was a favored -health resort of the Indians. As a matter -of fact, Battle Mountain, which overlooks the -town, takes its name from a legendary war between -the Sioux and the Cheyenne for the exclusive -privileges of the hot baths.</p> -<p>Not long after the discovery of the springs -a syndicate of investors who had come into the -Hills from Iowa bought the ranch claims that -had been taken out in the Minnekahta Canyon, -and sought to develop the region as a spa. This -was in the late eighties when salubrious waters -were in high fashion as a cure for arthritis and -other joint and muscular disorders of various -degrees of complexity. Colonel Fred T. Evans, -who had made a fortune operating a bull-team -freight line from Fort Pierre to Rapid City, -built an elaborate resort, the Evans Hotel, -which even today is imposing in its last-century -splendor; and with the arrival in 1890 and -1891 of two railroads, the Chicago and Northwestern -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -and the Burlington, wealthy cure-seekers -from all over the United States made -it their habit to spend the summer months in -this pleasant town.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" /> -<p class="pcap">Highways leading into the Black Hills.</p> -</div> -<p>Healing waters have long since gone out of -vogue as a form of recreation, and although -several clinics still treat a modest number of -visitors for one indisposition or another, the -town of Hot Springs has ceased to be a tourist -center of any consequence. Also, the fact that -the Springs are located a considerable distance -south of U.S. 16, the main east-west route -through the Hills, has contributed to the increasing -isolation which this town enjoys, -<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span> -drowsily seeing to the wants of the occasional -visitor who strays into Paha Sapa from the -south along U.S. 85. But do not mistake it, it -is a pleasant town to stop in, with excellent -motor courts and a good selection of restaurants.</p> -<p>The town of Custer, a scant fifteen miles -from the Wyoming border on U.S. 16, is little -more today than a tourist stopover. It is almost -two thousand feet higher than Hot Springs, -at an altitude of 5,301 feet, and contains, according -to the latest estimates, nearly two -thousand residents.</p> -<p>As the tourist enters the town he will immediately -be amazed by the wide main street; but -if he ponders for a moment the problems of -turning a freight wagon behind sixteen oxen, -the reason will become clear. Custer, the western -gateway to the Hills, was, until the coming -of the railroads, a major way station on the -busy Cheyenne-Deadwood stage and freight -route; and for fifteen years the great bull wagons -teamed into this busy center where, in most -cases, the goods were unloaded and trans-shipped -by lighter wagons into the various -mining centers throughout the northern and -central Hills.</p> -<p>Custer, the oldest of the white man’s settlements -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -in Paha Sapa, was founded in 1875 by -gold-seekers who flocked into the territory following -the reports of yellow metal sent back -by George Custer after his exploratory campaign -of 1874. In the first spring and summer -of its existence more than five thousand miners -swarmed into the region to pan gold. This invasion -was a violation of the government’s -treaty with the Sioux, and the military forced -the argonauts to leave.</p> -<p>By 1876 the Indian problem had come to a -head with the defeat of General Custer on the -Little Big Horn in eastern Montana; and as -one phase of retaliation the federal government -redrafted the Sioux treaty, allowing -American citizens to enter the Black Hills, -until this time reserved for the Indians. Although -for some time the tribal leaders could -not be persuaded to sign the revised agreement, -the restrictions on settlers were removed, and -back into the Hills rushed the prospectors—this -time to the new strikes in Deadwood -Gulch, in the north.</p> -<p>By the middle of 1877 Custer, where gold -had originally been found, had a population of -a mere three hundred souls, all of them concerned -primarily with the operation of the -stage stations and hostels. True, a few grizzled -<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span> -placer miners still worked the streams near by, -and do to this day; but hard rock mining in -Deadwood was the new order of affairs.</p> -<p>The visitor to this section of the Hills today -will find it pleasant to stay the night in any -one of a wide choice of tourist courts and other -reasonable billets, and he may see much of historical -interest within a few miles’ drive of -Custer. A settler’s stockade, reconstructed to -the original model of 1874, is a remarkable site -to visit, and the Jewel Cave is best reached -from this point. For sheer color and pageantry -the annual celebration of Gold Discovery -Days, which is held at Custer late in July—near -the date of the discovery of gold, July 27—is -an affair not to be missed during a Black -Hills vacation at that time of year.</p> -<p>The town of Spearfish is the point of entrance -to the region on U.S. 14, or, coming in -from the north, on U.S. 85. This tidy metropolis, -called the Queen City of the Black Hills, -never knew the heady history that marked the -early days of Custer, of Deadwood, of Rapid -City, or even of fashionable Hot Springs. Lying -outside the magnificent natural bowl of -mineral deposits, Spearfish was founded and -exists today for the simple purpose of supplying -the inner Hills with food and produce. It -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -has a population of between three and four -thousand people, most of whose energies are -devoted to agriculture and livestock.</p> -<p>Spearfish has, however, carved for itself a -fame and renown even larger, in many quarters, -than that enjoyed by the gold rush towns -of gustier memories. It is the home of the Black -Hills Passion Play.</p> -<p>This beautiful and stirring performance, -which is given in a large amphitheater on Tuesday, -Thursday, and Sunday evenings throughout -the summers, is a resurrection in an -American atmosphere of the centuries-old Passion -of Luenen, in Germany. The man who -plays the Christus, an inherited responsibility -through many generations, is Josef Meier, who -fled from Europe in 1932. For six years, with -a reassembled cast, he toured the United -States, performing a much trimmed-down version -of the historic morality on college campuses, -in civic auditoriums, and at summer -encampments. It was at such a performance -at the Black Hills Teachers College that the -citizens of Spearfish were inspired to offer the -touring company a permanent home. Meier -and his group eagerly accepted the offer, and -the town constructed an outdoor theater seating -eight thousand people. Now, each winter -<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span> -the Passion Play continues its tour of the -United States, but all during July and August -it remains in residence, acting its moving and -majestic pageant to constantly packed houses.</p> -<p>The eastern gateway to the Hills is Rapid -City, a metropolis of thirty thousand people -which lies on the level prairie just to the east -of the final ring of foothills. Founded, like -Spearfish, not as a mining center but to serve -the near-by gold regions, Rapid City has developed -a maze of industrial and commercial -enterprises. Shipping, of course, has been a -basic form of commerce from the earliest days, -with the two most heavily traveled trails into -the Black Hills, that from Fort Pierre and -that from Sidney, Nebraska, on the Union -Pacific, entering the gold area at Rapid City. -Lumbering, manufacture, banking, and livestock -quickly became prominent as the gold -fever subsided and the more permanent settlers -began coming into the region to take up the -rich cattle and farming lands in western South -Dakota. A final guarantee that Rapid City -will continue to flourish may be seen in the selection -by the Air Force of the high, level -prairie land just ten miles to the east of the -city as the nation’s major mid-continent -bomber base.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div> -<p>Rapid City is served by U.S. Highway 14-16, -and South Dakota state highways 40 -and 79. Two railroads and a major airline assist -in handling the heavy summer tourist -travel, and from Rapid City practically every -point of interest in the Black Hills can be -reached by car within three hours.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<h2 id="c2"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER TWO</span></span> -<br />The Formation of the Black Hills</h2> -<p>One of the most rewarding features of a -visit to the Black Hills is the opportunity -for the average individual, who has no -technical training, to see with his own eyes a -museum of the earth’s ages and a living sample -of practically every one of the many aeons of -the planet’s history.</p> -<p>The Hills, which is to say the rock substances -of the region, are older by hundreds of millions -of years than the stone out-juttings of the -Rocky Mountains. Layer after layer of slates -and schists from the very foundations of this -globe lie visibly exposed as the end result of -a doming of the region, a vast blistering, as it -were, which raised the entire structure, layer -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -upon layer, several thousand feet in the air. -Following this doming process, a vigorous program -of erosion commenced. Stratum by stratum -the winds and rains cut across this huge -blister in a horizontal plane, eventually laying -the core open at the height above sea level at -which we find the Black Hills today. From -that core, extending in every direction in the -general form of a circle, the various strata -which once lay so smoothly one upon another -have been laid open as one might slice off the -top of an orange.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="421" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">The Doming of the Black Hills</span></p> -<p class="pcapc"><span class="ss">Rock Strata being -shifted into a dome at -the time of the great -continental uplift.</span></p> -<p class="pcapc"><span class="ss">The forces of erosion—wind -and water—have -levelled the dome and -opened the seams to -view.</span></p> -</div> -<p>In order to get an even clearer picture of -how this amazing phenomenon came about -<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span> -through the aeons, let us fold back the ages to -the very birth of this planet.</p> -<p>For centuries men have attempted to determine -the earth’s exact age, but except for the -famed Archbishop James Ussher of Ireland, -who gravely calculated that the earth was -formed at precisely nine o’clock on the morning -of the twelfth of October in the year 4004 -B.C., no scientist has been able to come closer -than a few million years in the figures. -Through a number of trustworthy measurements, -however—including, in recent years, the -examination of the deterioration of radioactive -elements in rocks—geologists have agreed that -the oldest known ingredients of the earth’s -crust have been in existence at least two billion -years, and, according to some very recent calculations, -possibly as long as three and a half -billion.</p> -<p>In what is known as the Archean period, -the most ancient of which we have any geological -knowledge, a vast sea covered much of -North America, bounded by certain masses of -land, the extent of which has never been discovered. -From this land mass remnants of -mud and sand were broken away by waves and -deposited on the floor of the sea. Eventually, -under the pressure of its own weight, this material -<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span> -formed shales and sandstones to an undetermined -depth—many thousands of feet. -Those particular sandstones and shales underlie -the entire Black Hills area and extend in -nearly every direction for a considerable distance, -suggesting perhaps that the area of the -Hills was at one time the bottom of this watery -bowl.</p> -<p>The Archean period came to an end some -five hundred million years ago. By then the -seas had withdrawn, and the new land formations -which had lain under the early ocean -merged with the vestiges of the first land mass. -But this metamorphosis, which can be described -in such calm fashion, was by no means -a gentle affair. It took place largely as the result -of a shifting and rising of certain ocean -bottom areas, among which was the region -where we now find the Black Hills.</p> -<p>At the time of this uplift, and possibly contributing -to it, there was a tremendous disturbance -in the lower regions of the earth -which sent great streams of molten matter up -into the several-mile-thick layer of shale, -through which it poured toward the surface, -breaking through in monolithic forms and -hardening into granite. The New Mexico -writer, Eugene Manlove Rhodes, describing -<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span> -a similar geologic phenomenon in the valley of -the Rio Grande, has called it “like sticking a -knife through a tambourine,” and indeed it -was. Harney Peak, in Custer State Park, is -just such a granite finger pointing up through -the original shales toward the sky.</p> -<p>When this disturbance took place the granite -juttings did not rise above the surrounding -landscape as they now do. In many cases they -did not even reach the surface of the shale beds, -but ceased their flow and hardened short of -the crust of the earth, as it was then to be -found. When, however, the region was domed, -many millions of years later, the subsequent -weathering of the huge blister did not attack -these granite formations with anywhere near -the vigor with which the softer sandstones and -limestones were eroded. What actually occurred, -then, was a peeling away of the softer -rocks, leaving the granite formations near their -original sizes, but at last above the ground level -in the form of peaks, needles, and spires.</p> -<p>But we have gotten ahead of our story. Following -the Algonkian period, when the molten -matter was injected into the layers of shale, -there came what is known as the Cambrian -period. The Cambrian occupied the first 80,000,000 -years of the Paleozoic era, which in -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -itself covered the entire period from 510,000,000 -to 180,000,000 years ago.</p> -<p>During the Cambrian period the land subsided -again, perhaps because of the weight of -the uplifted sedimentary formations. During -this subsidence the waters once again covered -vast portions of North America, and additional -muds and slimes were deposited on the bottom. -It was at this period that life first appeared -on the earth, in the form of simple marine organisms -which have left fossil remains. These -deposits made in the Cambrian period can be -seen in outcroppings all through the region, -although they are most notably found in the -area about Deadwood. Because of their structure -they indicate to the geologist that the -shoreline of the ancient Cambrian sea was near -at hand, and also that this covering of water -was by no means as extensive or as deep as the -earlier Archean sea.</p> -<p>The deposits of sand and mud, which were -eventually pressed into stone, occasionally -reach a depth of as much as five hundred feet, -although they were laid down extremely -slowly, as eddying mud is laid at the bottom -of a pond. In the locality of Deadwood they -contained a rich infiltration of gold, and the -entire conglomeration was thoroughly intermixed -with a vast outcropping of much older -rock—this effect undoubtedly having taken -place later, during the great continental uplift, -when the final doming occurred.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<h4>THE AGES OF EARTH</h4> -<table class="center" summary=""> -<tr class="th"><th>MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO </th><th>(Pre-Cambrian Existence back to 3½ Billions of years)</th></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">PALEOZOIC ERA</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">510</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Cambrian Period—First fossils deposited. Marine life.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">430></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Ordovician Period—Invertebrates increase greatly.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">350></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Silurian Period—Coral reefs formed. First evidence of land life.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">310></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Devonian Period—First forests. First amphibians.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">250></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Mississippian, Pennsylvanian, and Permian Periods.—Reptiles and insects appear. Continental uplift at end of this period.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">180</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">MESOZOIC ERA</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Triassic Period—Small Dinosaurs. First mammals.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">150></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Jurassic Period—Dinosaurs and marine reptiles dominant.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">125></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Cretaceous Period—Dinosaurs reach zenith of development then disappear. Small mammals. Flowering plants and development of hardwood forests.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">60</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">CENOZOIC ERA & PERIOD</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Paleocene Epoch—Archaic mammals.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">50></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Eocene Epoch—Modern mammals appear.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">35></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Oligocene Epoch—Great apes appear.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">25></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Miocene Epoch—Grazing types of mammals appear.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">10></td></tr> -<tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="l">Pliocene Epoch—Man appears.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="r">0</td></tr> -</table> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<p>The next period of the earth’s age—the -Ordovician period, which extended from 430,000,000 -to 350,000,000 years ago—has left its -mark just as visibly upon the Black Hills. It -was during this period that the many species of -invertebrate marine life reached a zenith of -development, and that a bed of sediment was -laid down and later compressed to a pinkish -limestone. The fact that this Ordovician bed -is less than forty feet thick indicates that the -land mass from which the muds and sands were -drawn was very low, and that the Cambrian -sea was relatively shallow, entertaining only -minor erosive currents along its shores.</p> -<p>The next two ages, the Silurian and the -Devonian, which brought our earth down to a -scant 250,000,000 years ago, did not see the -deposit of any silting in the Black Hills region. -No doubt the waters which covered the locality -dried up gradually. The Mississippian period, -however, was a time of great depositional activity. -A layer of limestone between five and -six hundred feet thick was set down over the -entire section. In later periods this limestone -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -underwent much decay and water erosion, -which formed the amazing caverns for which -the Black Hills are known. Wind Cave, now -the site of a National Park, Crystal Cave, and -Jewel Cave are the best-known tourist attractions -among the many, although there are a -number of lesser ones, some even today only -partially explored.</p> -<p>The chemical activity which accomplished -this erosion was caused by the seeping of rain -water down through later accumulations of -sediment on top of the layer of limestone. As -it seeped through rotting vegetation and timber -the water collected carbonic acid gases -which, when it reached the level of the Mississippian -limestone, eroded the structure and -ate out huge hollows in it.</p> -<p>The thickness of the Mississippian deposit -indicated that at this time the earth had again -sunk beneath the waters to a considerable -depth. The shallow sea which had not offered -sediment to a greater depth than a few feet -was replaced by active currents which carried -heavier sedimentary materials from great distances, -laying them down on the floor of the -sea in various strata to a depth of several hundred -feet. Finally, after an unknown number -of millions of years, but perhaps during the -<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span> -Triassic period, the land again rose above the -level of the waters. A red shale suggests a time -of great aridity when the region must have -been a near desert, and certain discernible patterns -in the shales suggest periods of rapid -evaporation and a consequent change in chemical -activity.</p> -<p>Finally the land subsided again, for the last -time to date. At times salt water covered the -region, and at other times fresh water left its -chemical mark. At some levels in this last -layer of sedimentary rocks an abundance of -fossils can be found, indicating deep water, and -at others ripple-marked rock indicates very -shallow water. It remains a period of great -mystery. How long this final submersion continued -we do not know; but in all probability -it lasted nearly a hundred million years, and -then was terminated by the vast upending of -North America which created the Rocky -Mountains. This upheaval did not take place -suddenly, as a volcanic eruption or a series of -earthquakes, but apparently commenced about -sixty million years ago and lasted, as a continuous -series of shiftings and slow upheavals, -for about twenty million years.</p> -<p>At the beginning of this mighty uplifting -the region of the Black Hills was covered by -<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span> -the various layers of sedimentary deposits to -a depth of nearly two miles. Slowly this rectangular -area was lifted as a dome over the -surrounding prairies. We do not know how -high above the level lands this dome reached, -but we do know that several thousand feet of -later deposits overcapped the granite upthrusts -which were planted in the fundamental shales. -Those granite fingers, which have now been -exposed to view, stand from five hundred to -four thousand feet above the plains, and thus -the original dome may be assumed to have extended -from eight to ten thousand feet above -our present-day sea level.</p> -<p>Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first -started, as soon as the first land of the Black -Hills was elevated above the great sea, the -forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain -worked their terrifying magic on the slowly -rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks -and the loose dirt and leaving only the granite -outcroppings. Down from the sides of the -great dome poured the waters of melting -snows, gushing springs, and torrential rainfalls, -digging out rivers, canyons, and the -deep and narrow cuts which characterize this -beautiful region. Slowly the land continued to -rise and the oceans to fall until at last an equilibrium -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -was reached, a static state of affairs -which remained much the same until our own -period, when the base of the dome was at last -revealed, with the surrounding lands drifting -away in every direction on a gentle incline.</p> -<p>From that day the structure of the Black -Hills has changed but little. The high winds -off the Dakota plains and the annual spring -run-off and seasonal rains cut their minute -etchings in the landscape; but Nature’s greatest -effort in the Black Hills part of the world -has, it seems, been made. It must be remembered, -though, that Nature has had other responsibilities. -At the time of the doming of -the Black Hills the Alps had not yet been -formed, nor the Pyrenees, nor the Caucasus. -And on the site of the mountains we know -today as the sky-piercing Himalayas, the -swampy waters still moldered.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<h2 id="c3"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER THREE</span></span> -<br />The Hills Today</h2> -<p>It is this writer’s personal opinion that no -other resort area in the United States possesses -such a wealth of tourist attractions as -the Black Hills. This profusion of happy endowments -can be separated into three categories, -each of which deserves individual study -and enjoyment. Two of these, the region’s -folklore and its memories of the gold rush, belong -to the amazing history of the Hills. But -of course the visible landscape and the natural -wonders of the area are the primary objects of -the tourist’s visits, and it is proper that they -be considered immediately and in detail.</p> -<h3><i>Wind Cave</i></h3> -<p>The Wind Cave lies ten miles north of Hot -Springs on U.S. 85A. The cavern is the focal -<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span> -point of interest in its own National Park, -which takes in forty square miles. Nearly half -of this park is enclosed with a high fence, behind -which one of the last great bison herds -roams contentedly. Protected antelope, elk, -and deer also enjoy this game preserve.</p> -<p>The cavern was discovered, according to -legend, by a cowboy who heard a continued low -whistling noise in the weeds and, investigating, -found air rushing from a ten-inch hole near the -present entrance to the cave. And indeed it -is this very phenomenon that makes Wind -Cave different from other notable caverns, such -as the one at Carlsbad. Even on the stillest of -days a steady current of air can be felt rushing -in or out of the cave’s opening—into the earth -if the barometer is rising, and out of the -ground if the pressure is falling.</p> -<p>The National Park Service conducts tours -of the cave, the complete excursion lasting -some two hours. Fortunately, although the -visitor descends to a great depth as he searches -out the various chambers on the route, the tour -ends at an elevator which whisks him swiftly -to the surface near the starting point.</p> -<p>The entire cavern is a little more than ten -miles long, although there are portions of it -which have not even yet been explored so that -<span class="pb" id="Page_29">29</span> -their size may be known with accuracy. It is -not graced with the growths of stalactites and -stalagmites normally to be found in limestone -formations, but nature has compensated for -that lack by fashioning a peculiar box-work -which looks for all the world as if the cavern -had been subjected to an interminable frosting -process. These beautiful fretwork deposits, -which are not to be found in any other cave, are -the result of a strange chemical process that -took place in the limestone stratum where -Wind Cave is located. Surface water seeping -into the stone became charged with carbon dioxide -gas from the decaying organic matter -through which it passed. This gentle acid then -dissolved the limestone only to redeposit it in -cracks and crevices around other limestone -fragments. The precipitated limestone was of -a different chemical composition and resisted -later onslaughts by the eroding acids—which, -however, did eat away the fragments around -which the precipitate had formed, leaving the -maze of hollow crystalline formations that can -be seen in the various chambers of the cavern.</p> -<p>The National Park, being relatively small, -is not equipped with overnight facilities; but -this does not matter, for the town of Hot -Springs is but twenty minutes’ drive from the -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -park, and the town of Custer is only twenty -miles away. There are, however, camping -grounds in the park, and the Park Service operates -a lunchroom at the entrance to the cave.</p> -<h3><i>Custer State Park</i></h3> -<p>Custer State Park is located almost in the center -of the Black Hills. Containing nearly one -hundred and fifty thousand acres, it is one of -the largest state parks in America. It was -originally set aside as a state game refuge, and -it was not until the advent of summer touring -as a national pastime that the state of South -Dakota purchased additional private lands -which contained scenic wonders, incorporating -all of them into the one large area.</p> -<p>Today the park is the center of all tourist -activity in the region. A number of excellent -lodges, camp grounds, and tourist courts along -every road make it particularly easy for the -tourist to stop at will for a day or more to enjoy -the various recreational facilities as his -fancy dictates. In every respect the park is -effectively administered: food and lodging -prices are held to a reasonable figure, the cleanliness -of the buildings and grounds is regularly -inspected, and the landscape is protected from -commercial exploitation.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div> -<p>The center of the park’s activities is the -Game Lodge, a monstrous Victorian hotel -built in 1919 and operated under a private -lease. Close by the Game Lodge are cabins, -stores, eating establishments, the park zoo, a -museum, and the offices of the state park officials. -The Lodge, those with a flair for nostalgia -will recall, achieved international renown -in 1927 when President Coolidge made it the -summer White House. It lies on US. 16, -thirty-two miles from Rapid City and seventeen -miles from the town of Custer.</p> -<p>It behooves the writer to mention at this -point that the museum connected with the -Game Lodge is by no means the drab and -dusty sort of collection of impedimenta associated -with the vicinity that is so often found in -museums at scenic sites. Indeed, this fine attraction -is an assemblage of geological, paleontological, -and historical items which trace with -rare discernment the whole history of the Hills -through the ages, and up to our own day. The -visitor who fails to pass an hour in this exciting -spot will have missed the heart of the Hills -entirely.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div> -<h3><i>Harney Peak</i></h3> -<p>Harney Peak stands like a sentinel in Custer -Park. The highest point in the Black Hills, -it rises to an altitude of 7,242 feet, 4,000 feet -above the prairie floor outside the Hills. -Higher by 900 feet than Mount Washington -in New Hampshire, it is the highest mountain -east of the Rockies.</p> -<p>High as it is, Harney Peak is by no means -the typical mountain which tourists come to -expect after a trip through Colorado, for example, -or western Wyoming. It is older by -ages than the precipitous and craggy Rockies, -and the winds and waters have worked their -slow erosion on it, cutting away what high -shelves and escarpments might originally have -existed and leaving it, except at the top, a gentle -and easy mountain that may be climbed -over a trail which will scarcely tax the laziest -tourist.</p> -<p>On the top of the peak will be found the core -of granite that originally broke through the -Archean shales. This granite, subject to the -mechanical ravages of wind, rain, and frost, -is rugged and coarse, a steep dome covered -with a thick lichen. From this eminence the entire -Black Hills area can be seen, rolling away -<span class="pb" id="Page_33">33</span> -in every direction—great waves of pinnacle -and mountain, gradually subsiding and disappearing -in the haze of distance which covers -the prairies. Especially striking from this spot -is the view of Cathedral Park, with its hundreds -of needle-like spires and organ pipes, -and, sheltered in a quiet recess, that amazing -phenomenon, Sylvan Lake.</p> -<h3><i>The Needles</i></h3> -<p>The Needles Highway, a fourteen-mile stretch -of road, branches off U.S. 16 about five miles -west of the Game Lodge. At the time of its -construction in 1920-21 it was regarded as an -engineering marvel, although later exploits of -American highway builders, such as the road -to the top of fourteen-thousand-foot Mount -Evans in Colorado, have since far overshadowed -this accomplishment.</p> -<p>The road winds and curves in an interminable -pattern, finding its way, by trial and error -it seems, among the great granite spires -that give the region its name. These “needles,” -through the last of which the highway actually -plunges in a tunnel, are the remains of a great -granite plateau which once covered that entire -portion of the Black Hills. Contrary to popular -opinion, the rocks are not outthrusts, the -<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span> -result of some ancient upheaval, but the last -thin vestiges of this once-solid plateau. The -age-old process of erosion has carved them into -the shapes they now have; and the inquiring -visitor can see the process still at work, for -upon close inspection this granite is found to -be not the impregnable stone it appears, but -rock in a late stage of disintegration. Rot is -the word which actually describes this formation, -and in many spots whole chunks can be -picked from the side of a spire by hand. It was, -as a matter of fact, this situation which made -the construction of the Needles Highway possible. -Had the granite been solid, the task of -cutting the Needles and Iron Creek tunnels -would have been so expensive as to prohibit the -entire undertaking.</p> -<h3><i>Sylvan Lake</i></h3> -<p>Not all of the scenery in the Black Hills was -created by Nature. Sylvan Lake, in many respects -the most beautiful corner of the region, -was made entirely by hand.</p> -<p>It was near the turn of the century when -two hunters, Dr. Jennings of Hot Springs -and Joseph Spencer of Chicago, got the intriguing -idea of having an additional tourist -attraction in the vicinity of Harney Peak—a -lake.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="801" /> -<p class="pcap">Along the Needles Highway</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="896" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">Harney Peak older by ages than the Rockies</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div> -<p>Some lakes are difficult to construct, while -some are relatively easy. Sylvan belongs in the -latter category. The two imaginative gentlemen -merely bought a small tract of land between -two great granite shields and built a -dam seventy-five feet high between the boulders. -The waters of Sunday Creek, which -flowed to their dam, together with local -springs, at last contrived to fill the area back -of the dam. Today this loveliest of lakes basks -peacefully high above the world at an elevation -of 6,250 feet, actually on top of a ridge, at the -north terminal of the Needles Highway.</p> -<p>It is easy for any lover of water scenes to -become enthusiastic as he describes the colorations -of his favorite lake, so I shall merely state -that Sylvan never looks the same in two consecutive -moments. Not having the symmetry -of natural lakes or the tremendous depths of -glacial pools, this body of water plays the role -of mirror to the fabulous rock shapes which -surround it; and indeed it is a source of never-ending -delight to watch the cloud and sun patterns -as they wrestle with the shadows of the -rocks on its surface.</p> -<p>For many years Sylvan Lake and its environs -<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span> -were operated privately. A hotel catered -to the tourists who bounced over the privately -built road in buggies and horse-drawn busses. -In 1919 the property was purchased by the -state of South Dakota, and since that time it -has been operated as a public facility. When -the original hotel burned, in the thirties, the -state built with funds procured from the federal -government a comfortable and modern -hostelry, the most amazing feature of which -is the expansive dining room with picture windows -looking out over the lake to Harney -Peak.</p> -<p>The hotel is small, as resort hotels go, containing -only fifty rooms, and the tourist would -do well to arrange for accommodations in advance -of his visit. There are, however, a number -of cabins operated in conjunction with the -main building, and except at the height of the -season rooms can probably be found in the annexes. -Along the lake shore an excellent restaurant, -independent of the hotel, serves the -needs of the traveler who has only a few hours -to spend at this stop.</p> -<h3><i>Mount Rushmore</i></h3> -<p>From Sylvan Lake around back of the north -side of Harney Peak it is a drive of but a few -<span class="pb" id="Page_37">37</span> -miles to the second man-made wonder of the -Hills—the Mount Rushmore Memorial.</p> -<p>Perhaps no one thing has done so much to -make the Black Hills known throughout the -world as this incredible undertaking—the carving -in the natural granite face of a mountain -of the faces of our four most revered presidents: -Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and -Theodore Roosevelt. “Teddy” is included for -his lasting service to the people of the United -States as the president who saw the Panama -Canal project through Congress and into being. -The military and economic values of that -enterprise so deeply impressed the sculptor of -this mammoth frieze that he insisted upon elevating -TR into the august company of the -other three great statesmen.</p> -<p>The whole story of the memorial would fill -several volumes, and indeed has already done -so. Briefly, the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, -wished to perpetuate a patriotic motif in stone -figures so large that they would attract visitors -from every corner of the country and impress -upon them the glories of the democracy which -the four presidents had done so much to build -and sustain. The sculptor’s own words were: -“I want, somewhere in America, on or near -the Rockies, the backbone of the continent, a -<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span> -few feet of stone that carries the likenesses, -the dates, and a word or two of the great things -we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high -that it won’t pay to pull it down for lesser -purposes.”</p> -<p>The actual construction work started in -1926, and the formal dedication was made by -President Coolidge in the summer of 1927. -Between nine hundred thousand and a million -dollars went into the gigantic task, including -money for supplies, wages, and the sculptor’s -own personal needs during the fifteen years he -spent on the project. He died in 1941, and the -work was completed a few months later by his -son.</p> -<p>The immensity of the undertaking can be -grasped when the dimensions are noted. The -face of each of the figures, for example, measures -sixty feet from chin to forehead.</p> -<p>The rough carving was done by dynamite. -Borglum, working from a carefully constructed -model, would mark on the sheer sides -of the great mountain the lines where he -wanted the stone peeled away. Then a blast -would be set off in the hope that the rock -displacement would approximate the lines -marked out, and from that point the work had -to be done by hand. At first, taking lessons -<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span> -from the miners working for him who had -many years of experience in blasting the hard -granites of the region, Borglum was able to -reach only within a foot of the final figure by -dynamiting. As he became more proficient in -the use of the explosives he got to the point -where his original blasts would shed the stone -to a matter of an inch or less from the final cut -surface. The head of Washington was finished -in 1930, that of Jefferson in 1936, that of Lincoln -a year later, and that of Theodore Roosevelt, -the final figure, in 1941.</p> -<p>There are no tourist facilities at the site of -the Memorial. Like every other place in the -Black Hills, however, Rushmore can be -reached in a few minutes’ drive from any one -of a number of near-by points where a tourist -might be stopping. Borglum’s studio, situated -on a prominence a few hundred yards from the -carvings, gives the best view of the scene and -is open to the public.</p> -<h3><i>Crazy Horse</i></h3> -<p>It is not entirely accurate to refer to the Mount -Rushmore Memorial as <i>the</i> other man-made -wonder in the Hills. At the moment it is the -only such marvel outside of Sylvan Lake; but -in twenty-five or thirty years it will have to -<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span> -share that honor with the Crazy Horse Memorial, -a statue carved on top of Thunderhead -Mountain, between Harney Peak and the town -of Custer. This gigantic carving, which will -be an entire figure and not a mere bas-relief, -will be an equestrian statue of the great Sioux -chief, Crazy Horse, who led his nation during -the desperate years between 1866 and 1877. -The chief will be mounted on a prancing steed, -his hair blowing, as if in the wind, behind him.</p> -<p>The Indians themselves can take the credit -for this fabulous idea. Chief Henry Standing -Bear, a resident of the Pine Ridge reservation, -is said to have had his inspiration after a visit -to Mount Rushmore. Why not, he wondered, -erect some monument to an outstanding red -man, so that when the last of his people have -been assimilated into the white man’s society, -visitors to what was once the heart of the Indian -country can reflect for a moment upon -the greatness of that lost race?</p> -<p>Standing Bear wrote his idea to Korczak -Ziolkowski, an energetic and imaginative -sculptor, and suggested that Chief Crazy -Horse would make a fitting symbol of the Indians’ -struggle for existence. This was in 1940.</p> -<p>The sculptor took to the idea, but because -of the events of World War II he was unable -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -to commence work on the project until 1947. -Since then he has been setting off two blasts -of dynamite a day, carving away the rock at -the top of Thunderhead. But even yet the first -faint outlines of the eventual statue are only -barely discernible. Ziolkowski estimates that -the entire task will consume a quarter of a century, -if not more, and will cost not less than -five million dollars. If this figure sounds high -compared with the less than a million spent on -Rushmore, perhaps the measurements will provide -an explanation: the horse upon which the -chief will be seated will be four hundred feet -from nose to tail, and the entire work, from -pedestal to top, will be more than five hundred -feet in height.</p> -<h3><i>Mount Coolidge</i></h3> -<p>In this same general region lies another prominent -Black Hills landmark which every tourist -should take time to visit—Mount Coolidge. -With a height of 6,400 feet, this peak is by no -means an outstanding mountain, being ranked -by a good half dozen higher within the Hills. -But from its summit, which can be reached by -an auto road leading off U.S. 85A a few miles -to the north of Wind Cave Park, an amazing -vista can be seen. To the east, on a clear day, -<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span> -the White River Badlands loom as a great valley -sixty miles away. To the south one can see -across the high rolling hills all the way into -Nebraska, and to the west landmarks in Wyoming -are clearly visible. On the summit a -stone lookout tower has been built for the convenience -of visitors.</p> -<h3><i>Jewel Cave and Ice Cave</i></h3> -<p>Since the Black Hills are underbedded so -widely by limestone, it is not surprising to find -in them not one but several memorable caverns. -There are, as a matter of fact, a dozen or -more well-known large caves; but outside of -Wind Cave, only Jewel Cave has been opened -and fully prepared for public visit. The expense -of exploring, lighting, and carving trails -in the others has kept them off the market, so -to speak, for in a region so packed with scenic -delights two great caverns are about as much -as the traffic will bear.</p> -<p>Jewel Cave lies some fourteen miles west of -Custer on U.S. 16, almost at the Wyoming-South -Dakota border. It is a small cave, with -only two tours marked out in it, one a mile -long and the other two miles. It is noted for -its wealth of colorful crystalline deposits, totally -<span class="pb" id="Page_43">43</span> -unlike the delicate filigree work to be -found in Wind Cave.</p> -<p>The cave was discovered by two prospectors, -who proceeded to develop their property for -commercial gain. In 1934 they sold the cave -and such of its environs as they owned to the -Newcastle, Wyoming, Lions Club and the -Custer Chamber of Commerce. These two organizations -sought to popularize it further as -a lure to tourists who would have to travel -through their towns to reach the scene. In -1938 the federal government took it over and -made a national monument of it.</p> -<p>Not far from Jewel Cave is the famous Ice -Cave. This cavern gets its name from the current -of cold air which blows from its mouth, -cold and clammy on even the hottest of summer -days. The Ice Cave is not officially open -to the public, and has not even been totally explored. -Forest rangers and Park Service employees -have charted some of it and have -searched out certain channels in the strange -formation, and from their meager reports it -would seem that if Ice Cave is ever fully -opened it will vie with New Mexico’s Carlsbad -in beauty and grandeur.</p> -<p>For the curious tourist the only possibility -at the moment is to take the lovely off-route -<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span> -trip to the cave’s entrance, a natural arch -twenty feet high and seventy-five feet wide.</p> -<p>In addition to Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, and -Ice Cave, there are a number of other caverns -of varying interest and underground beauty -which have been opened and exploited by private -individuals. In many cases these are but -indifferently arranged for public inspection, -but can be tracked down by the visitor by -means of the garish signs which too often -manage to clutter the otherwise unblemished -scenery.</p> -<h3><i>Just Scenery</i></h3> -<p>The foregoing are only a very few of the -scenic wonders of the Black Hills. Detailed information -on the various other scenic features -is easily to be had at any of the hotels and -tourist courts in the Hills, and brochures covering -practically every landmark are available -gratis, thanks to the enthusiasm of the local -chambers of commerce, the Black Hills and -Badlands Association, and the state of South -Dakota. The area is crisscrossed with good -roads, and no matter which route one takes to -his eventual destination, every mile will be -marked by breath-taking views and natural -wonders.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_45">45</div> -<p>The region, except at the summits of the -peaks, lies at an average altitude of some five -thousand feet. Cool nights are thus guaranteed, -regardless of the temperatures by day. -The highest mean temperature ranges, during -the six months between April and November, -from 60 to 85 degrees. Light outing clothes are -suggested for day wear, and light wraps are -always in order after dark.</p> -<p>The rainfall during this same six-month -period, averaged over fifty years, amounts to -three inches per month; what small showers -do occur take place most usually in an hour or -so of the early afternoon, and refresh rather -than hinder the tourist.</p> -<p>The hillsides are covered with a mass of -shrub and tree growth, and an earnest searcher -can find specimens of no less than fifty-two -varieties. Yellow pine, spruce, cedar, ash, -aspen, alder, dogwood, and cottonwood are -most in evidence.</p> -<p>The bird lover will find the Black Hills nothing -less than a vast aviary, more than two -hundred species having been seen in the region. -Animal life is almost as widely represented, -although the casual visitor is not likely to come -upon a native mountain lion or gray wolf. The -assistance of forest rangers and Park Service -<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span> -employees is available in locating the habitats -of some of the rarer varieties of wildlife.</p> -<p>As might be expected, the fisherman will -find plenty of opportunity to ply his pole in -this region. There are nearly 150 miles of -stream and lake frontage in the Black Hills, -and the waters are liberally stocked by the -state hatcheries. In addition to trout, the angler -will encounter pike, pickerel, bluegills, -black bass, and perch.</p> -<p>Finally, there are the annual celebrations -and fairs, which are always of interest to the -outsider, for they help dramatize the particular -region where they are held and its historical -background. July and August are the months -for these celebrations, and notices of coming -events will be found posted prominently’ along -the tourist routes. Four such outstanding occasions -are Black Hills Range Days at Rapid -City, Gold Discovery Days at Custer, the -Belle Fourche Round-Up, and the Days of -’76 at Deadwood. The Deadwood celebration, -it might be added, celebrates not the Revolutionary -War, but the discovery of gold in -Deadwood Gulch in 1876.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div> -<h2 id="c4"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER FOUR</span></span> -<br />History I: Indians and Gold</h2> -<p>Gold, they say, is where you find it. -In California in 1848—in Montana in -1852—in Colorado in 1858—in Arizona, in -Nevada: when they finally found it in the -Black Hills in 1874, the Gold Rush West had -nearly all been settled and the bonanza days -were forever gone, for all the likely places had -been searched.</p> -<p>The question posed is an obvious one. With -sourdoughs plowing and digging up the bed -of every stream and rivulet in the West from -1849 on, how did it come about that the Black -Hills, lying a considerable distance closer to -home than California and the other gold rush -regions, had kept their glittering secret until -so late?</p> -<p>The truth of the matter is that the mysterious -<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span> -and brooding dark mountain-land was a -good place to hide secrets. Gold had been discovered -there, as a matter of fact, as early as -1834, which was just seven years after the -country’s first gold strike—the 1827 Georgia -rush. But unfortunately those first lucky gold-seekers—there -were six of them—did not live -to enjoy their taste of the Black Hills’ incredible -wealth. Fifty-three years later, not far -from the town of Spearfish, one Louis Thoen -found a piece of limestone upon which was -crudely but legibly engraved this melancholy -message:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>came to these hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra -Kind G. W. Wood T Brown R Kent WM King Indian -Crow All ded but me Ezra Kind Killed by Indians beyond -the high hill got our gold june 1834</p> -</blockquote> -<p>On the back of this somber relic were the -blunt words: “Got all gold we could carry.”</p> -<p>Yes, there was gold in plenty, but Paha -Sapa of the Hills was a jealous spirit who -guarded the forbidden portals with a great -vengeance. It is interesting, though, to speculate -upon how the course of western history -might have veered had Ezra Kind made his -way out of the bleak region to report his discovery. -Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and most of -the Missouri Valley would have been skipped -<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span> -over in a rush to the prairie West, left to be -filled in and settled later. The upriver ports of -the Missouri, rather than St. Louis, Kansas -City, St. Joseph, and Omaha, would have been -the outposts, and there would have been no -Santa Fe Trail, no Platte River—Oregon -Trail, but rather a heavily traveled National -Road winding out from St. Paul and from -Chicago. Rapid City would have been a metropolis -the size of Denver, and when eventually -the Union Pacific was built it would -have been three hundred miles north of its present -route. And the Indians? There would have -been a far different story in that regard, perhaps -a much bloodier and more tragic tale.</p> -<p>But Ezra Kind was killed and his secret -slept, and thus we are as we are today. Actually -it was the Indians who kept the Hills so -long forbidden—Indians of the Teton Sioux, -the same tribe who put Ezra’s party to the -tomahawk.</p> -<p>Before the California gold rush life on the -Great Plains had proceeded pretty much on -an even keel. The mighty Teton Sioux, all -seven tribes of them—the Oglalas, the Unkpapas, -the San Arcs, the Brules, the Minniconjous, -the Blackfeet, and the Two Kettle—roamed -the prairies at will, from the Missouri -<span class="pb" id="Page_50">50</span> -Valley to the Rocky Mountains. Of course -they had their misadventures with the fur companies, -but just as often their dealings with -the Mountain Men were profitable, for the -Indians, when in the mood, scouted, trapped, -and hunted, all for the white man’s pay.</p> -<p>With the great exodus to California, though, -the situation took on a different hue. Immigrants -by the hundreds and the thousands -poured up the rolling valley of the Platte, and -it was not many months before the haphazard -Indian attacks took on a new strength and design. -Long burned the council fires in the dark -nights, and all up and down the great plains -the war raged. To protect the wagon trains -the government sent its shrewdest and most -experienced Indian agent, Thomas Fitzpatrick, -a veteran fur trader since 1823, the famed -“Broken Hand” of western legend. Summoning -the tribes to Fort Laramie in 1851, Fitzpatrick -managed to subdue them, but only by -promising that he would confine the settlers -to specific ranges and would keep them steadfastly -out of the Dakotas and the Black Hills.</p> -<p>In the meanwhile the eastern tribes, the Santee -Sioux, were beginning to feel the pressure -of settlement in the rich Minnesota valleys. In -1862 they revolted, and the terrible battle of -Wood Lake was fought, with the score of massacred -settlers reaching into the high hundreds. -The leaders of this outrage were, of course, -apprehended and punished, but whole tribes -fled into the western plains, into the land -of the Black Hills, where they eventually -joined forces with their Teton cousins.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="745" /> -<p class="pcap">The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width="924" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an altitude of 6,250 feet</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_51">51</div> -<p>By 1865 matters had come to a head again, -because although the great Sioux, numbering -between thirty and forty thousand, had kept -to themselves, the white man had broken his -side of the bargain and was cutting a new route -into the forbidden country. This passage was -the famed Bozeman Trail, which drove north -from Fort Laramie, on the Oregon Trail, directly -through the Sioux country to serve the -new gold fields of Montana.</p> -<p>To protect the wagon trains on the Bozeman -the army called upon General Grenville -Dodge, who was later to build the Union Pacific. -Dodge, Commandant of the Department -of the Missouri, was an old hand at Indian -warfare. He rushed into Wyoming a full force, -four columns of men, who swiftly brought the -angered tribes to heel.</p> -<p>The immediate result of this engagement -was the signing of a halfhearted and inconclusive -treaty at Fort Sully, near Pierre, in October -<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span> -of 1865. The treaty attempted to settle -some old differences of a fundamental nature, -but inasmuch as neither the Oglala nor the -Brule were represented it failed of its mission.</p> -<p>A year later a further powwow was staged -at Fort Laramie to pursue the matter of keeping -the Bozeman Trail open through the forbidden -Sioux country. Perhaps matters might -have proceeded equably had not General Carrington -arrived in the midst of the delicate negotiations -to announce that he had enough -soldiers to protect the trail, treaty or no treaty.</p> -<p>Carrington’s blustery announcement, backed -up by a show of seven hundred courageous but -misguided cavalrymen, brought the talks to an -abrupt end and sent the two most important -Sioux Chieftains, Red Cloud and Crazy Horse, -scurrying for the council fire and the war -paths. In all the great plains there were not to -be found braver or more single-minded Indian -strategists than these two. For the better part -of two years roving bands of tribesmen under -Red Cloud and his stalwart colleague amply -proved that Carrington could not have kept -the trail safely open if he had had seventy times -his seven hundred men. It was, as a matter of -fact, the only time in our long history that -<span class="pb" id="Page_53">53</span> -Uncle Sam’s troops ever took a downright -beating.</p> -<p>At last even Red Cloud could see that the -white man, for all his braggadocio and poor -planning, would eventually win the turn; and -although his savage troops had tasted victory -in almost every engagement, he consented in -1868 to negotiate once more. Presumably both -sides were wiser by then, for a pact, sometimes -called the Harney-Sanborne Treaty, was dutifully -signed and accepted in April of that year. -The United States agreed to close the Bozeman -Trail and to abandon the forts. The Black -Hills were utterly forbidden to the white man, -and except for an agreement to let the Northern -Pacific rails cross the upper prairies unmolested, -the high plains from the Missouri -to the Big Horn were returned by federal -order to their historic isolation.</p> -<p>After that fiasco the situation remained comparatively -quiet for a few years. Eastern Dakota -was being settled bit by bit, and the rails -were pushing forward, ever so slowly but ever -so surely. The Missouri River was the frontier -line, dividing the settled Dakotas from the -Sioux lands; and Fort Lincoln, on the river -(not far from the site of today’s Bismarck), -<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span> -was the outpost that overlooked the troubled -territory.</p> -<p>From month to month trappers, gold-seekers, -and would-be homesteaders slipped inside -the Sioux curtain from the Cheyenne-Laramie -country on the south, from the rich Niobrara -country in northwest Nebraska, or from eastern -Dakota itself. There was not much that -the army could do about these treaty violators -except worry, for the borders to be patrolled -were vast and the forbidden lands inviting.</p> -<p>But the army did worry, endlessly. There -were increasingly frequent rumors of the existence -of gold in the Hills, and year after year -General Sheridan, commanding the Departments -of Dakota, the Platte, and the Missouri, -urged stronger fortification of the Sioux -boundaries to prevent trouble. Trouble was -particularly to be expected because several -bands of Sioux, specifically those under Sitting -Bull and Crazy Horse, had not agreed to government -supervision in 1868 and seemed thirsting -for a fight.</p> -<p>Thus it was to make a military survey that -Sheridan sent an expedition through the heart -of the Hills in 1874. His force of more than a -thousand soldiers moved under the command -of George Armstrong Custer; and, strange -<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span> -impedimenta for an army, the luggage in the -lorries included mining picks and pans, the belongings -of H. N. Ross and William T. McKay, -who were officially attached to the -command. Presumably Custer was looking for -something more than mere military sites.</p> -<p>The Indian fighters of an earlier day—Kit -Carson, the Bents, or Sibley, for instance—would -have stood gaping in the stockade as -Custer’s force moved leisurely onto the empty -Dakota prairies. This was no ragtag army in -buckskin, but an orderly procession of one -hundred and ten wagons, six ambulances, a -dozen caissons, and two heavy field pieces. -Each wagon and ambulance was drawn by a -sprightly hand of six sleek mules.</p> -<p>In addition, three hundred head of beef cattle -browsed slowly along the way in mooing -testimony that this expedition would live off -the very fattest of the land. The personnel included, -in addition to Custer’s highly trained -troops, a hundred Indian scouts, a platoon of -expert white guides and trappers, and, -mounted upon docile mares, a special contingent -of botanists, geologists, geographers, and -assorted expert college professors. Also, as -has been reported, there were two miners.</p> -<p>To the north of the Hills, crossing the Belle -<span class="pb" id="Page_56">56</span> -Fourche River first, the army made its gentle -way, and then down the west slope of the forbidding -mountains, seeking for an easy pass -into the dark interior. Tall in the saddle rode -golden-haired George Custer, for he was commanding -the strongest army ever put into Indian -country. It is little wonder that he slept -quietly at night, or that he wrote in his diary: -“It is a strange sight to look back at the advancing -column of cavalry and behold the men -with beautiful bouquets in their hands while -their horses were decorated with wreathes of -flowers fit to crown a Queen of the May.”</p> -<p>In that holiday mood the army moved down -inside the great bowl of mountains on its sightseeing -tour, and presently it camped about -three miles west of the present town of Custer. -All this while the miners had not been inactive, -but had plied their pans here and there as the -company passed across various streams. Until -this bivouac, though, they had had no luck, -and, as a matter of fact, had actually been -expecting none. They had come along to quell -the rumor of gold as much as to bear it out. -Preferably to quell it, if General Sheridan -were to have his way.</p> -<p>On August 2 of that year, 1874, McKay -turned out to try his implements once again -<span class="pb" id="Page_57">57</span> -on French Creek. An early account gives this -dramatic version of the famed discovery: -“When the earth [in the pan] was gone, he -held up his pan in the evening sun and found -the rim lined with nearly a hundred little particles -of gold. These he carried to General Custer, -whose head was almost turned at the -sight.”</p> -<p>Through the magic of his discipline Custer -managed to keep his army from beating their -ration tins into placer pans and “claiming” on -the spot. Getting under way almost immediately, -the men continued their march eastward -through the heart of the Hills, and on August -30 emerged from the great park and headed -back to Fort Lincoln.</p> -<p>In the meanwhile a messenger had been sent -ahead with the news of gold. Scout Charley -Reynolds, who was to die with his commander -just two years later, was detached from the -base camp and sent scurrying down to Fort -Laramie, to the nearest telegraph station. -Within an hour of his arrival at the post, two -hundred miles to the south and west of the -Black Hills, the tremendous news was burning -over the wires to General Sheridan in St. -Louis.</p> -<p>It was also burning some operator’s ear -<span class="pb" id="Page_58">58</span> -along the way, for the great secret, which was -to be handed only to the high command in -Washington, made its way on that very day -into the editorial rooms of the old <i>Chicago -Inter-Ocean</i>—where, naturally, it was treated -with great respect and splashed across the -headlines with all the vigor of an announcement -of the Second Coming.</p> -<p>There was actually a genuine religious fervor -in the proclamation, for the locust had -been upon the land for many months in the -eastern cities, and the bread lines had been -growing. It had threatened to be a cold winter -until ... until this last bonanza burst upon the -nation.</p> -<p>Men had all but forgotten what a gold rush -was like. It had been so long since the last great -hegira to the Pikes Peak region that a new -generation had come into manhood, a generation -that knew California only as a state, Colorado -as a prosperous territory, and the Union -Pacific as the proper way to cross the empty -West. There were none of the desperate winter -marches up the Continental Divide this time, -no lost wagon trains on the salt deserts, no -Indian massacres. This rush left Chicago on -the “cars,” as noisy and as highhearted as fans -following a football club.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_59">59</div> -<p>And there was another great difference between -the foray to the Black Hills and the earlier -gold rushes. In this case the argonauts did -not get to the diggings. The troops saw to that. -Deploring the untimely leak of official intelligence -concerning the presence of the yellow -metal in the Dakota outcropping, the War -Department issued stern warnings to all settlers -to keep away. The existence of the treaty -with the Indians was proclaimed in every -paper—and, though less resoundingly, the danger -from the Indians was also mentioned.</p> -<p>Nonetheless, before the end of that crucial -year a sizable group of foolhardy settlers broke -through the blockade and made themselves at -home. Erecting a strong stockade at the scene -of the first strike, they soon carved themselves -a town in the wilderness, gratefully naming it -Custer, and even that early providing for the -wide main street where ox teams could make -a U-turn. Throughout the first winter these -illegal townspeople managed somehow to survive -the cold, the lack of rations, and the danger -of Indian attack; but late in the spring -General Crook’s cavalry arrived to “escort” -them out of the Hills and back to the railroad -at Cheyenne.</p> -<p>Many of the citizens of that first town took -<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span> -their eviction with fair grace, turning to other -means of employment than gold mining—and -there were plenty—in Cheyenne, Denver, and -the other near-by and rapidly growing settlements. -One group, though, the Gordon Party, -apparently enjoyed leadership of a tougher -sort. They refused to be intimidated by the -troops. Setting up camp on the very boundary -line between the forbidden country and the -permitted Platte Valley, they just waited. Actually, -an increasingly large number of immigrants -waited on the border only until -nightfall, and then set out into the unknown. -Some were apprehended by the cavalry and -returned, some were killed by the sullen tribesmen, -but hundreds of them managed to find -their way to the vicinity of French Creek. -More than that, they managed to stay.</p> -<p>It might be thought that gold mining, with -all its necessary paraphernalia, supplies, and -general confusion, could not very well be carried -on in an atmosphere suggesting the more -modern practice of moonshining; but the truth -of the matter was that there were just too -many settlers and too few soldiers. Time and -again the troops would swoop down on some -busy little gathering and hustle the miners out -to the nearest courts, where they would hastily -<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span> -be acquitted and released to go back to their -workings. Under the very fist of forbiddance -a score of towns had sprung up, among them -the reborn Custer City.</p> -<p>Finally the government gave up all hope of -keeping the eager immigrants out of this last -frontier. By the fall of 1875 the border towns -of Sidney, Nebraska, Yankton, South Dakota, -and Cheyenne and Laramie, Wyoming, were -bursting at the seams with gold-hunters who -demanded “their rights as citizens.” Bowing -to the inevitable, the government sent a treaty -commission to wait upon the Sioux. This body -of earnest men offered the Indians six million -dollars for the right of entry into the Hills. -Although the treaty Sioux agreed to sell, the -price they asked wavered between twenty and -one hundred million. Crazy Horse, who did -not attend the council, refused to sell at any -price and solemnly warned the white man to -stay out.</p> -<p>Frustrated, the treaty commissioners returned -to Washington in despair, while the -embittered Sioux disappeared into the west -river country to nurse their grievances. Upon -this turn of affairs, the government washed its -hands of the matter and opened the lands to -settlement.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_62">62</div> -<p>That was in June of 1875. Within a matter -of weeks after the bars had been let down, the -Hills were populated by uncounted thousands -of men, women, and children. Many simply -came out of the woods to claim honestly the -diggings they had been working dishonestly; -but many, many more came from the East by -every train, now that the country was legitimately -open.</p> -<p>It was a motley assembly that took part in -this Black Hills rush. In earlier bonanzas the -type had been pretty well formalized, for the -difficulty of the overland journey to California, -for example, or across to the Pikes Peak -region, had kept all but the roughest—and -toughest—at home. But on this occasion the -West was by no means as wild as it had been -in those earlier days. Distances had been conquered; -transportation methods, even beyond -the railroads, were much safer and more adequate; -and the Black Hills, although cold in -the middle of winter, offered none of the -climatic ferocities of the Rocky Mountains. -Thus, to partake of this feast of yellow dust -hopeful clerks brushed shoulders with desperadoes, -professional men of every accomplishment -traded rumors with crease-faced -sourdoughs from the dead land south of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_63">63</span> -Mogollon, and oldsters who had thought they -might never again hold a pan in their hands -dug alongside mere boys from whom the apron -strings had been relaxed.</p> -<p>In the meantime, even as the good citizens of -Custer, Gayville, Central City, Golden Gate, -Anchor City, and a host of other thriving -towns, most of which have long been given -over to the ghosts, were bustling about their -exciting business, matters in the west were taking -a slow but inexorable turn for the worse.</p> -<p>The army had let the situation ride for the -summer and fall, keeping a careful watch over -the enemy Sioux, but feeling fairly assured -that they would attempt no large-scale raid of -the Hills, populated now by at least fifty thousand -people. Summer and fall were not normally -times to worry over, in any case, for the -buffalo were still on the range and forage was -plentiful for the tribes. It was in the depths -of winter that the tale would be told—either -the Indians would come docilely to the reservations -for their rations, or they would steer -clear of the white man’s soldiers and supply -their own necessities by raiding the isolated -ranch and stage line outposts.</p> -<p>By mid-December the reservations were still -empty, and General Terry sent out a call to -<span class="pb" id="Page_64">64</span> -Sitting Bull, ordering him to bring his people -in to the military posts. January 1, 1876, was -given as the deadline. The haughty Sioux chief -paid scant attention to Terry’s order, replying -simply that the general knew where to find him -if he wanted to come for him. Sitting Bull -knew that the army would attempt no large -maneuvers with the weather as it was—one of -the bitterest winters in recorded history.</p> -<p>Then he simply waited.</p> -<p>But General Terry was no man to take a -short answer. Immediately he ordered three -expeditions to prepare themselves for the field, -to move as soon as weather should permit, and -to take the Indians early in the spring when -their ponies would still be thin and unrecovered -from the winter’s rigors. General Crook -was to march north from Fort Fetterman, on -the North Platte River; General John Gibbon -was to move south and east from Fort Ellis, in -Montana; and General Custer was to come -west from Fort Lincoln.</p> -<p>Unfortunately not only the Indians but the -weather as well turned against General Terry, -for with the thermometer standing most of the -time at between twenty and forty below and -the prairie covered with the glaze of incessant -<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span> -blizzards, neither Custer nor Gibbon was able -to move out of camp.</p> -<p>Crook, though, was able to best the winter -when March rolled in and to locate one of the -most dangerous of the rebel bands, Crazy -Horse’s renegade Oglalas, deep in the Powder -River Valley. This was on March 17, 1876. -Had Crook’s men not made certain grave errors -of tactics after a brilliant surprise, the battle -might have solved the problem. As it turned -out, the Indians galloped a few circles around -the troops and made merrily off into the forest. -Again the weather closed in.</p> -<p>Three months later, when the summer -weather made campaigning possible, Crook’s -troops were able to take to the saddle again, -and again Crazy Horse was located, this time -encamped on the Tongue River, between Powder -River and Rosebud Creek. Again the battle -was inconclusive, for the troops seemed -unable to press the advantage of their surprise -discovery of the Indians.</p> -<p>Eight days later, on June 17, the bewildered -but indomitable Crook came a third time upon -Crazy Horse, now on Rosebud Creek. On this -occasion the troops were able to euchre the Indians -into a pitched battle—and were thereupon -so thoroughly trounced that Crook’s -<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span> -command was essentially immobilized where -the bleeding remnant lay at the battle’s close.</p> -<p>By the time the harassed cavalrymen had -bound up their wounds and remounted, Crazy -Horse had disappeared over the hills and down -into the Big Horn Basin, where his cohorts -joined a host of other bloodthirsty braves in a -great Sioux encampment. Black Moon was -there, Inkpaduta, Gall, and a major roster of -other courageous Indian warriors. Counseling -them and performing their good medicine was -none other than Sitting Bull himself, who, it -should be said, was not a warrior but a medicine -man and tribal diplomat.</p> -<p>Historians have never been able to agree -upon the number of braves assembled under -this battle flag, but all concur in the belief that -the camp could have contained no less than -three thousand warriors—in all probability the -greatest single Indian army ever to be put into -the field against the troops.</p> -<p>By this time other help was coming for -Crook, as he lay in the south nursing his ill -fortune. General Custer, having scouted out -Crazy Horse’s retreat, had been ordered to -stop him from the north and to pinch the Indians -between the prongs of his force and -Crook’s.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div> -<p>But it was Custer rather than Crazy Horse -or Sitting Bull who met the pincers. Coming -upon the headquarters village of the enemy, -Custer divided his force of 600 men into four -groups: Benteen with 140 odd, Reno with -about 125, McDougall with the ammunition -and supplies and perhaps 140 men, and Custer -himself retaining the balance.</p> -<p>While McDougall stayed to the rear, Benteen -was sent off on a fruitless errand into a -badly broken terrain to the southwest. Custer -and Reno in the meantime proceeded side by -side toward the village. Coming over the last -remaining hill before the Indian camp, Custer -dispatched Reno ahead to make a preliminary -contact with the enemy, while he rode off in a -somewhat parallel direction, apparently bent -on encircling the savages.</p> -<p>Meanwhile Reno did indeed encounter the -Indians, and when he realized how tragically -outnumbered he was, he immediately dismounted -his men to fight a delaying action on -foot, thereby saving both men and horses. He -obviously adopted this tactic on the theory that -he would be supported from the rear by Custer. -When he saw that Custer had decided to -make a diversionary attack on the right flank -of the enemy, Reno and his men gave up the -<span class="pb" id="Page_68">68</span> -fight and concentrated on scrambling out of -the trap and making their way to the hill which -overlooked the village.</p> -<p>From that vantage point Custer and his -force could be seen across the Little Big Horn -at a distance of perhaps a thousand yards. -Apparently thinking that Reno was still successfully -engaging the Indians, Custer rode -his men down into a ravine where he apparently -encountered the full horde of savages -and where he met his death. The details of that -last action have never been made clear, but -most experts think that he divided his pitifully -weak force into two segments at the time of -the final charge which took him full into the -heart of the great enemy body. Thus it was -that Custer was caught in the pliers of the attack, -in which hopeless position his entire force -was wiped out to the last man, officer, and -guide. Custer’s Last Stand, as it has been -poetically called, was in every respect the -greatest defeat of white forces in the history of -Indian warfare.</p> -<p>Custer’s death marked the end of the Black -Hills controversy. Although the Indians had -been completely victorious, they had spent so -heavily of their warriors and their supplies -that they were never again able to mount a -<span class="pb" id="Page_69">69</span> -major attack against the whites. Swiftly the -troops hunted them down, village by village, -and within a year the great Sioux War had -ground to a stop.</p> -<p>A second treaty commission had been appointed -late in 1876, and by February the -transfer of the Black Hills from the Sioux Nation -to the United States had been completed—not -for a cash consideration, but only for -the government’s promise to support the Indians -until such time as they might learn, under -agency supervision, to provide for themselves.</p> -<p>By that time the question of entry was no -more than rhetorical. The Black Hills were as -thickly populated as any region of equal size -in the West. The stage routes in from Cheyenne, -from Sidney, Nebraska, and from the -Dakota railheads were well traveled. The last -frontier had been broken.</p> -<p>And besides—there was Deadwood and the -Homestake.</p> -<p>The original rush had centered in historic -Custer, the scene of the first entrance into the -country on French Creek, and the terminus -of the Cheyenne-Black Hills stage line. By -Christmas of 1875 the population of that wilderness -settlement was in excess of ten thousand -<span class="pb" id="Page_70">70</span> -souls, each of them active and bustling -about his business.</p> -<p>On the other hand, there was not a great deal -of business to bustle after. French Creek was -a good clue to gold, but that was about all. -Before long most of the good citizens, having -found the little brook something of a snare -and a delusion, were casting about for some -way to make their livings from each other. -Storekeeping, laundering, ranching, hostlering, -all were honorable occupations which soon -found a plenitude of practitioners.</p> -<p>In that fashion the winter was passed. Ice -capped the waters and the snow hung from the -trees, and aside from hoping for spring there -was little the thronging populace could do. -Thus a fruitful field was in fallow for the gossip -which started blossoming in March and -April. The tales, whispered—as such stories -always are—without definition or authority, -had it that somewhere in the northern Hills -there was another stream that had nuggets the -size of ... it is unimportant how large the nuggets, -for a glitter of dust the size of an eye-speck -would have been a windfall in Custer. -Day by day the rumor grew, and as is always -the case with such gossip, the precise location -<span class="pb" id="Page_71">71</span> -of this “Deadtree Gulch” was never made entirely -plain.</p> -<p>The reason for this obfuscation was simple: -a rich strike had actually been made far in the -north part of the Hills, and the claimants were -doing their level best to keep it a secret. The -fact that Custer held its population as long as -it did was a testament to the sagacity and close-lippedness -of John Pearson and Sam Blodgett, -who had stumbled, late the previous winter, -into one of the world’s richest gold basins.</p> -<p>The secret held for only a few months. Trappers, -prospectors, and mere travelers were -passing through the spruce trails of the Hills -in such profusion that sooner or later the activity -up Deadwood Gulch, as it came to be -called, was bound to be observed. Pearson had -found his dream cache in December of 1875, -and he managed to contain the secret only until -March of 1876. Like a forest fire the news -of the strike to the north spread, and by May -the southern Hills were deserted. Custer, for -several years the metropolis of the entire region, -lost all except thirty of its citizens in a -matter of weeks, and other settlements in the -south and west simply dried up and disappeared.</p> -<p>That Deadwood Gulch, so named for the -<span class="pb" id="Page_72">72</span> -stand of burned-over timber which graced its -declivitous sides, contained a major deposit -was not to be denied. The rich sands which -Pearson had spaded up testified to that, and -later comers were by no means disappointed. -But the names and locations of individual early -discoveries have long been lost to all save the -most assiduous researchers, for there was one -claim which outshone all the rest. That digging -was the mighty Homestake, which, from its -first days, has produced gold and assorted -other precious ores in such abundance and with -such dependability that it has been accepted -the world over as one of earth’s great mines, -rivaled in munificence only by the Portland-Independence -of Cripple Creek in Colorado -and the fabulous workings of the Witwatersrand -of South Africa.</p> -<p>As with all rich diggings, an appropriate -legend attends the account of the original -discovery of the Homestake. It seems there -were two brothers, Fred and Moses Manuel, -who had long been addicted to that most -vicious of all unbreakable habits—gold prospecting. -Moses had wound his weary way -through the West for a full quarter of a century, -plodding the dusty California gold -gulches in ’50, up the steep heights of Virginia -<span class="pb" id="Page_73">73</span> -City in ’60, into Old Mexico, and—although -he was a full generation too early—into -Alaska. But now, in 1875, he was through with -it all and was going home.</p> -<p>Collecting his brother Fred, who was fruitlessly -panning the sands of the Last Chance -Gulch in the high border country of Montana, -Moses started east, passing of course through -the Black Hills, to scout down this one last -ray of rumor—that a new strike was in the -making. Setting out their camp in Bobtail -Gulch, a mere pistol shot from certain placer -claims in Deadwood Gulch, they went to work -in midwinter, hoping to find, the legend has it, -just enough blossom rock to give them a stake -for their homeward journey.</p> -<p>They seem to have hit it with a vengeance, -not mere placer gold in the stream bed but a -genuine lode, for on April 9, 1876, they patented -the claim known as the Homestake. Discarding -for the moment all idea of going on -home with whatever meager wealth this “last” -try should bring them, the Manuel brothers -immediately consolidated their position by going -into partnership with another prospector -and taking shares in the Golden Terra, an adjoining -piece of real estate, the Old Abe, and -the Golden Star. The immediate returns, by -<span class="pb" id="Page_74">74</span> -the ton, are not today known, but they must -have been substantial, for the lucky brothers -built an arrastra—a crude millstone affair for -grinding ore—and managed to pocket more -than five thousand dollars in their first year of -operation.</p> -<p>In the natural run of events the Homestake -and the adjoining parcels which the Manuel -brothers were operating would probably have -worked well enough for a year or so, and would -then have suffered the fate of thousands of -other diggings throughout the gold-rush West—the -surface ores would have played out, and -because of the high cost of following the lodes -deeper into the earth than a few dozen feet, -the mines would have been abandoned. But in -this case a San Francisco syndicate came into -the picture, providing the necessary capital -funds for the searching out of whatever ultimate -wealth the Homestake might have.</p> -<p>This syndicate of Pacific Coast businessmen -included James Ben Ali Haggin, a partner in -the highly solvent Wells Fargo express company, -and Senator George Hearst, the father -of the publisher, William Randolph Hearst. -These vigorous men sent a mining engineer -into the Hills in 1877 to canvass the location -for possible investments; and in the course of -<span class="pb" id="Page_75">75</span> -a detailed examination of whatever properties -seemed to be paying well, this emissary from -Market Street came upon the brothers Manuel. -A superficial examination of the Homestake -and the Golden Terra sufficed this -engineer, and he optioned them both, the first -for seventy thousand dollars and the second -for half that sum. Returning immediately to -California, he delivered to his employers samples -of this richest gold mine in North America, -and without delay Senator Hearst went -to South Dakota to see for himself.</p> -<p>What he saw impressed him most favorably, -for upon his return to California he owned -both the Terra and the Homestake, as well as -several other claims on the same hill, a total of -ten acres of mining property. That small figure -is significant in the light of the fact that the -Homestake Mining Company today owns -more than six thousand acres of mining claims.</p> -<p>With the incorporation of the mining company -in San Francisco, the aboriginal methods -employed by the Manuel brothers were discarded, -and the latest in mine machinery was -laboriously shipped by train to Sidney, Nebraska, -and then by ox team the two hundred -miles to the town of Lead (pronounced -“Leed”), the precise location of the Homestake, -<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span> -two miles from Deadwood City. The -first installation was an eighty-stamp mill, -which began its work in July of 1878. Within -five years six additional mills were in operation, -holding a total of 580 giant stampers.</p> -<p>The mine now handles four thousand tons -of ore per day and has, in its sighted reserve, -twenty million tons yet to work. The two main -shafts reach into the earth to a depth of more -than a mile, with branching tunnels piercing -the mountain at hundred-foot levels; and there -are more than a hundred and fifty miles of -secondary tunnels, served by more than eighty -miles of mine railway.</p> -<p>The richness of the Homestake ore has averaged -fourteen dollars per ton for many years -now. This may not sound like any considerable -amount of wealth—but the most active gold -operation in Colorado, the Fairplay dredge, -is working gravel which pays an average of -nine cents per ton.</p> -<p>Finally, the records of the company show -that it has mined 70,000,000 tons of ore, yielding -a total of 18,000,000 ounces of gold, which -has brought a gross price, at various standards, -of $450,000,000.</p> -<p>With the opening of the Homestake, the -conquest of the Black Hills was effectively -<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span> -completed, and the region entered into a period -of rapid development and expansion. Although -the great mine at Lead was run solely -as a business enterprise, devoid of glamour and -excitement, the town of Deadwood, two miles -away, enjoyed a decade of the lustiest history -ever to be known by a bonanza town. During -its years of activity and arrogance Deadwood -contributed to our national folklore several -great figures, among them Calamity Jane, -Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill Hickok, and -Preacher Smith.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_78">78</div> -<h2 id="c5"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER FIVE</span></span> -<br />History II: Deadwood Days</h2> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">Sam left where he was working</p> -<p class="t">one pretty morn in May,</p> -<p class="t0">a-heading for the Black Hills</p> -<p class="t">with his cattle and his pay.</p> -<p class="t0">Sold out in Custer City</p> -<p class="t">and then got on a spree,</p> -<p class="t0">A harder set of cowboys</p> -<p class="t">you seldom ever see.</p> -<p class="lr">—“<span class="sc">Legend of Sam Bass</span>”</p> -</div> -<p>It has become the literary custom to recall -our bonanza frontier less as an economic -phenomenon than as a backdrop for bloodshed, -mayhem, and assorted turns of vigor and violence. -Early California, for example, is today -known less as the scene of the accomplishments -of James Fair, Charles Crocker, and Leland -Stanford than as the arena for the armed -forays of Joaquin Murietta, Black Bart, Dick -<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span> -Fellows, and various other gunmen. Since this -is the accepted practice, it is entirely appropriate -to introduce the gold-rush days of the -Black Hills with a brief account of the banditry -and thuggery which accompanied the -early growth of that last frontier.</p> -<p>The quotation at the head of this chapter is -one verse of an old folk ballad, “The Legend -of Sam Bass,” the not particularly inspiring -saga of the life and death of an Indiana-born -horse thief and road agent. Actually, Bass had -little to do with the history of the Hills, and as -anybody knows who has ever whistled or sung -his song, the bulk of the chronicle concerns -his struggle against the Texas Rangers.</p> -<p>On the other hand, Sam Bass will long live -in Black Hills history, for regardless of his -other accomplishments he went to his glory -bearing the credit for having originated the -fine art of stage robbery in that Dakota wilderness. -The Black Hills, like every other gold -region, enjoyed but scant holiday from the -pestiferous road agents. During 1875 and -1876, when the region was filling up, it seemed -that there was plenty to occupy the imagination -of every individual who was able to make -the tortuous trip from the railroad. But by -1877 the area had calmed down to such an -<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span> -extent that idle hands could occasionally be -counted in the dram shops, and the time was -ripe for the devil to get in his work.</p> -<p>From the point of view of geography the -Hills presented ideal conditions for armed -assault. The two major stage lines leading -into the region were the Cheyenne-Black Hills -Line, running through two hundred miles of -desolate emptyland, and the Sidney Short -Route, less long by some thirty miles, but passing -through equally lonely country. In addition, -one freight and stage line came in from -the east, from Fort Pierre, and another from -the north, following the general heading of -Custer’s 1874 expedition. The gold, though, -most often traveled the fastest route, out to -the Union Pacific at Cheyenne or Sidney.</p> -<p>During the first twenty months or so of the -Black Hills gold rush, armed guards were not -normally counted among the personnel of the -stage coaches. As a matter of fact, in most -instances it was to be questioned whether or not -any gold rode the stages, for the going was -generally thin in the diggings, and the average -operator accumulated his bullion for several -months before amassing a shipment large -enough to be worth the trouble and worry. -For all the wealth of the Homestake, the Hills -<span class="pb" id="Page_81">81</span> -by no means repeated California’s early history, -when every stage worth tying a horse to -carried at least some treasure. And yet, in the -springtime most of the miners cleaned up their -winter’s take, it was commonly understood, -and ... well, Sam Bass must have thought, -every good thing must have a beginning.</p> -<p>In March, 1877, Bass organized a gang of -cutthroats in Deadwood, and the brief period -when one could ride the coaches in comparative -safety came to an end. It was not much -of a gang that the legendary bandit gathered -around him, the five other men being mostly -cowardly and quite worthless, either as adventurers -or as strategists. Bass himself was little -more than a “punk,” as he would be called today, -and, as a matter of fact, did not earn his -immortality until much later, in Texas, where -he was shot down in a barber chair by a -Ranger.</p> -<p>The gang, if they might so be called, foregathered -on the snowy night of March 25 in -Deadwood and, after consuming sufficient -whiskey to enable them to stand the cold, made -their way down the south road to a point a few -miles from town where they might intercept -the incoming stage from Cheyenne. What genius -of diabolical planning led them to attack -<span class="pb" id="Page_82">82</span> -an inbound conveyance, which could be carrying -little more than ordinary mail, rather than -the “down” stage, which might possibly be -loaded with bullion, has never been figured out, -but at any rate they camped themselves in the -snow and waited.</p> -<p>At last the stage hove into sight, and Bass, -the trusty leader, cautioned his hoodlums not -to shoot, but merely to stop the coach and -demand the mail pouch. Presumably the sentiments -of the period held that robbery without -gunfire was quite condonable, and an entirely -different affair from burglary accompanied -by shooting. It is also quite possible that Bass -was only minding his own safety, for the night -had already been marked by one misfortune—one -of his men had managed to shoot himself in -the foot while putting on his deadly hardware.</p> -<p>As might be expected, however, Bass’s well-laid -plans went very much agley. In the excitement -of calling “Halt!” one of the bandits -proved a bit too eager-fingered, and even as -the stage driver was reining his team to a stop, -a shotgun blared out, emptying its charge at -close range into the driver’s chest.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="" width="412" height="700" /> -<p class="pcap">Calamity Jane, during her carnival days</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="481" height="699" /> -<p class="pcap">Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="" width="755" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun messengers</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="789" /> -<p class="pcap">Deadwood Gulch in 1881</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="775" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">Modern Deadwood—seventy years later</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div> -<p>With the shot the horses bolted, and shortly -thereafter they pounded into Deadwood, -guided by a hatless passenger who had managed -to secure the ribbons as they dangled. -Within a matter of minutes a posse had been -formed and riders were making their way into -the woods. Inasmuch as Bass and his companions -had been acting suspiciously during the -afternoon and evening, the finger of accusation -pointed altogether correctly in their direction, -and before the moon was down Sam Bass was -well on his way to Texas, escaping Deadwood’s -justice only to go to his lathered doom.</p> -<p>This tragic foray against law and order set -the stage, so to speak, and before long the -spruce trails of the Black Hills, once so still -and harmless, could be passed over safely only -in the company of “shotgun messengers,” as -the armed attendants were called. It did not -take the stage companies long to come to this -way of operating, for Wells Fargo, which -contracted for the express business, had -had a quarter-century of rugged experience. -Bringing their brave talents swiftly to bear on -the situation, the Wells Fargo men steel-plated -the coaches to be used for bullion shipments, -and brought into the Hills the famed treasure -chests which had figured so largely in the history -of the coming of law and order to California—metal-bound -cases too heavy to be -transported quickly from the scene of crime, -<span class="pb" id="Page_84">84</span> -and too sturdy to be opened except after arduous -work with chisels and crowbars. The chests -had been developed with the idea that a posse -could be gathered at the spot where a stage had -been held up before the gold could be removed -from the chest or the chest itself taken far -away.</p> -<p>A more important safety factor than the -chests was the reputation of the shotgun messengers. -The express companies went to great -lengths to engage only the most fearless and -law-abiding men they could find for this dangerous -task, and time and time again thousands -upon thousands of dollars in bullion rode across -the lonely trails with no more than one man, -his shotgun, and his reputation for bravery -guarding it.</p> -<p>Wyatt Earp, perhaps the most noted of -these messengers, entered his long tour of -Wells Fargo duty through that firm’s Deadwood -office. Earp, as any lover of western -legend will tell, earned his vigorous reputation -as marshal in the bloody Kansas cattle towns -of Dodge City and Abilene. After the excitement -of these Gomorrahs had worn off, he -made his way to Deadwood in 1876—not as a -gold-seeker, but apparently merely in search -of honest and not too dangerous employment. -<span class="pb" id="Page_85">85</span> -At any rate, his brief stay in the Hills was -given to the profession of coal and wood dispensing -rather than to law enforcement. Either -the weather or the lethargy of the place suited -him poorly, for within the year he was casting -about for some means of making his way back -to his own plains country.</p> -<p>Taking advantage of the public clamor -against road agents after the Sam Bass affair, -he offered his services to the express agent and -was hired for the single trip out for fifty dollars -cash and free passage. The agent was by -no means doling out any charity in this exchange, -for he knew the value of Earp’s reputation -and looked upon the fifty dollars as a -cheap form of insurance. He advertised in the -local newspaper: “The Spring cleanup will -leave for Cheyenne on the regular stage at -7 <span class="small">AM</span> next Monday. Wyatt Earp of Dodge -will ride shotgun.”</p> -<p>Bullion shippers were quick to take advantage -of this extra protection, and it was recorded -that no less than two hundred thousand -dollars in bullion was weighed in for that special -trip. It would be most dramatic to recount -that Earp’s one trip was marked by attempted -mass raids, burning coaches, and wounded -drivers, but the truth of the matter is that the -<span class="pb" id="Page_86">86</span> -journey was made on time and in good order. -Only one shot was fired, and that by Marshal -Earp, who took offense at the suspicious actions -of a rider whose course seemed to parallel -the stage route for an unaccountable distance. -Without stopping the stage or otherwise -alarming the passengers Earp dropped the offending -horseman a few miles out of Deadwood, -and the rest of the trip was made without -incident.</p> -<p>Despite the vigor with which the treasure -coaches were protected, armed robbery continued -to take place sporadically all during -the final decade before the rails pushed through -from the East. By and large these forays, -while bloody, were unsuccessful, and not a single -desperado was able to rise to any sort of -fame during that period. On the other hand, -there was one robbery which must go down in -history for the strange way in which the loot -was recovered.</p> -<p>This particular villainy, remembered as the -Canyon Springs robbery, took place on September -28, 1878. The locale of the outrage was -not far out of Deadwood on the rough way -through Beaver Creek and Jenney Stockade -into Wyoming and thence to Cheyenne. The -coach, on this fateful occasion, was rumored -<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span> -to be carrying nearly one hundred thousand -dollars in ingots from the Homestake, as well -as from other works; and although shipments -of such size were not altogether rare, they were -sufficiently out of the ordinary to suggest the -services of additional shotgun messengers. It -may well have been the mere fact of the scheduling -of additional guards that called the -attention of the bandits to this particular manifest.</p> -<p>The holdup took place in midafternoon, as -the driver was stopping the coach to water the -horses. In the gunplay three men were killed, -and the bandits escaped with the loot from the -treasure chest, which they apparently managed -to chisel open. Ten miles away one of the -guards came upon a party of horsemen, who -returned to the scene of the carnage; but upon -their arrival they found the coach despoiled of -its gold.</p> -<p>In many such cases the bandits would have -been recognized as local or near-local citizens; -but in this instance all of the desperadoes appeared -to be strangers to the Hills, and consequently -the law officers had very little except -guesswork to guide them in their pursuit. -Guesswork coupled with just plain snooping -soon uncovered a trail, however, for one of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span> -stage agents turned up a ranch owner who -gave the information that a small group of -men had, on the very evening of the holdup, -bought a light spring wagon from him. Such a -transaction was unusual enough to indicate -that the purchasers were by no means individuals -of legitimate calling, and in all probability -were the actual bandits. Setting out on this -trail, the agent managed to trace them and -their wagon all the way to Cheyenne, where the -group had apparently turned to the east.</p> -<p>By that time persons who had seen them in -passing had recognized them, and their names -were broadcast to the marshals and sheriffs of -all the eastern regions of the plains. Day after -day the stage agent followed their trail east, -across the Missouri, across the border of Nebraska, -and on to the pleasant town of Atlantic, -in Iowa. By that time the wagon had been -discarded and the gang had broken up, and -the agent was following only one spoor—the -track of a young man who was always seen -with a strange, heavy pack on his back.</p> -<p>In the town of Atlantic the trail came to an -abrupt end, and indeed the mystery might -never have been solved had it not been for a -strange display in the street window of a local -bank. Pausing to see what it might be that -<span class="pb" id="Page_89">89</span> -was engaging the attention of a crowd at the -window, the agent was astounded to behold -part of the very loot he was pursuing—two -bullion bricks stamped with serial numbers -which identified them beyond a doubt as part -of the Canyon Springs treasure.</p> -<p>Upon questioning, the banker proudly asserted -that his son had only the day before returned -from a successful adventure in the -Black Hills, and had, as a matter of fact, found -a gold mine, which he had sold for the very -bricks making up the exhibit.</p> -<p>Gently the agent disabused the banker of -this sad misapprehension, and, enlisting the -aid of the local Sheriff, had the prodigal son -arrested.</p> -<p>The unfortunate conclusion to this tale of -detective expertness is that although the gold -was eventually returned to the Homestake, the -young bandit escaped from the train which -was carrying him back to Cheyenne, and was -never thereafter apprehended. As for the other -four robbers and the rest of the treasure, no -further trace of either was ever discovered.</p> -<p>Although banditry and skulduggery played -a very great part in the tales of most of the -other bonanza gold fields, the Black Hills -story was for the most part happily without -<span class="pb" id="Page_90">90</span> -extraordinary violence. Much more conspicuous -in the history of the Hills than the desperate -adventures of bandits are the exploits -of the folk heroes who rode the Deadwood legend -into immortality. Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity -Jane, Deadwood Dick, Preacher Smith, -all of these amazing personalities achieved a -lasting fame during the early days of this later -frontier, not for any deeds of derring-do in -the Sam Bass fashion, but for the old American -custom of living and dying in a high and -wide manner.</p> -<p>In all probability Deadwood Dick has carried -the saga of the Hills farther and to a -greater audience, both in this country and -abroad, than any of the others, and for that -reason, as well as for the strange circumstance -that he never existed, it is perhaps well to tell -his story first.</p> -<p>Dick, who never had a last name, was nothing -more nor less than the happy creation of -an overworked literary side-liner eking out a -living in the late seventies. Having exhausted -the possible plot complexities of such heroes -as Seth Jones and Duke Darrall, Messrs. -Beadle and Adams, proprietors of that stupendous -literary zoo, The Pocket Library -(published weekly at 98 William Street, New -<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span> -York, price five cents), urged their hack, Edward -L. Wheeler, to crank out a new character. -This Shakespeare of the sensational, -having recently heard of the brave doings in -Deadwood, of the Black Hills, promptly created -a latter-day Leatherstocking, Deadwood -Dick.</p> -<p>Dick’s success was instantaneous, for there -was a sense of truth in these stories which had -theretofore been missing. Dispatches in every -post brought the news of Deadwood as it was -happening, and thus the weekly appearance -of another Deadwood story was able to hang -itself firmly on the coattails of reality. In one -episode Dick courts Calamity Jane, who actually -existed at the time, and finally marries -her. In another, Our Hero is a frontier detective, -fighting bravely on the side of law and -order. In still another he has turned to robbery, -and at one point is actually strung by -his neck from a cottonwood gallows.</p> -<p>After exhausting the many plot possibilities -of the Black Hills, Dick, who had become as -real to his readers as George Washington, began -to work both backward and forward in -time and space. In one set of adventures he is -shown to be an active Indian fighter; in another -he turns up with Calamity Jane in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span> -town of Leadville, Colorado, which came into -its glory not long after the strike in Deadwood.</p> -<p>At last the many loose ends of the story so -entangled author Wheeler that he gave up -Deadwood Dick as a lost cause and out of nowhere -fetched him a son, Deadwood Dick, Jr., -who marched on to the turn of the century -and down into our own time. Indeed, his noble -features can still occasionally be found staring -gravely up from a pile of old and dusty magazines -in attic corners.</p> -<p>With such a heritage it is little wonder that -as the town of Deadwood grew away from its -infancy, and as its modern Chamber of Commerce -turned to summer pageants as a source -of tourist interest, Deadwood Dick should be -revived and paraded. Deadwood’s summer festivals, -the gay “Days of ’76,” are built around -a town-wide re-creation of the gold rush, with -the natives chin-whiskered, booted, and costumed -within an inch of their lives. During -this gusty week otherwise sober and retiring -citizens turn themselves out as stage coach -drivers, Indians, and pony express riders, and -the nights are filled with such a bubbling halloo -that the tourists, who come in ever larger -droves, are able to go home and report that -<span class="pb" id="Page_93">93</span> -they have honestly spent time in a frontier -town.</p> -<p>To heighten the effect, the impresarios of -this gay divertissement many years ago decided -to raise Deadwood Dick from Beadle’s -pages and put him on the street like all the -other self-respecting Calamity Janes and Wild -Bills. Locating an oldster who looked not unlike -the artist’s original concept, they dressed -him in an assortment of western oddities and -gave him time off from his duties as a stable -hand while the festival was in session. For several -years this simple pretense was carried on, -and no sleep whatsoever was lost over the fact -that a mild fraud was being perpetrated on the -visiting Iowans.</p> -<p>In 1927, though, when South Dakota was -negotiating with Calvin Coolidge to get him -to spend his summer in the Hills, the stable -hand, whose name happened to be Dick Clarke, -was sent to Washington to extend a personal -welcome to the President. Patently a publicity -stunt, it fooled nobody but old Dick himself. -The rigors of the trip and the succession of -tongue-in-cheek honors heaped upon him somehow -tilted the old man’s mind, and from that -day until his death a decade later he fully believed -that he was the original Deadwood Dick. -<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span> -Frowning down any suggestions that he doff -his beaded finery and return to the care of the -oat bins, he betook himself far from the gentle -safety of the Deadwood that he knew and that -knew him, and took to touring the backwoods -with fifth-rate medicine shows and Wild West -pageants. Somewhere along the line he got up -a small pamphlet which he sold to the gawking -audiences who thought they were seeing a -genuine frontiersman. In this amazing tract -he spelled out such of the facts of Wheeler’s -stories as were coherent and in logical time -sequence. The rest, including a date and place -of birth, he soberly filled in for himself.</p> -<p>And that was Deadwood Dick. When he -finally died, back in Deadwood in the early -forties, much of the town had come to believe -as he did that there had been a Deadwood Dick, -just as there had been a Calamity Jane, and -that this gaffer had been the very person. His -cortege was solemnly followed, and to this day -flowers are sprinkled on his grave by confused -but loyal residents of the Hills.</p> -<p class="tb">Wild Bill Hickok, on the other hand, actually -lived, and actually died exactly as the -legend goes, with aces and eights in his hand. -It was this unfortunate occurrence, as a matter -<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span> -of fact, that gave to that particular poker hand -its gruesome name, Dead Man’s Hand.</p> -<p>Somewhat in the manner of Deadwood Dick, -Wild Bill achieved a large part of his fame -through the earnest efforts of Beadle & Adams. -That is to say, much of his renown came after -his untimely demise, and much of it was deliberately -generated to satisfy the great western-yearnings -of the avid book-buying public. In -addition to the publishers’ efforts on Bill’s behalf, -great impetus was given to his posthumous -repute by Calamity Jane. Nevertheless, -in all probability Hickok was actually the fearless -and sterling character his legendeers have -depicted, and had he not been brutally done -to death by feckless Jack McCall he would -doubtless have earned even greater fame -through his own efforts in later years.</p> -<p>James Hickok was born into a farming family -in Illinois in the year 1837, and passed a -quiet and respectable boyhood in the ordinary -pursuits of such an existence. In his nineteenth -year he, like so many other young men of that -day, felt the urgent call of the Far West. He -hired himself out forthwith as a teamster in a -wagon train to the Pacific Coast.</p> -<p>Returning at the end of this one visit to the -golden shores, he managed to land in the Platte -<span class="pb" id="Page_96">96</span> -Valley of the eastern Rockies in the very year -when gold was being discovered in that region. -The following two years he spent in odd jobs -around Denver and on the high plains to the -east of that new city. During all this time, -however, it seemed as if his heart were hungering -for the lower country. He let his drifting -carry him slowly back into Kansas where, at -the beginning of the Civil War, he managed a -station for Hinckley’s Overland Express Company, -which was then staging from St. Joseph, -Missouri, to Denver and into Central City.</p> -<p>All these adventures gave ample opportunity -for any young man of spleen to entangle -himself a dozen times over in killings, brawls, -and assorted rough businesses, but through -this entire period James Hickok gave evidence -of being nothing but a stalwart and well-intentioned -individual.</p> -<p>The harmlessness of his pursuits, though, -came to an explosive end after one year in this -genial work, when he indulged in pistolry with -a certain McCanles gang. One version of the -Wild Bill legend states that the “gang” were -cutthroats, and that Hickok was only defending -his company’s property. Another version, -equally trustworthy, has it that the McCanleses -were Confederate sympathizers, attempting -<span class="pb" id="Page_97">97</span> -to raise a cavalry unit in the region and -thus offending Hickok with his Unionist leanings. -Whatever the reason, the outcome was -bloody. No one today knows for certain how -many men were killed, for eyewitness accounts -have included reports ranging all the way -from one to six, all of them presumably slain -by Hickok.</p> -<p>The doughty station manager, his helper, -and another stage company employee were -speedily brought to trial for the affair, and -just as speedily acquitted of any crime. Shortly -after that Hickok resigned his express company -affiliation and joined the Union army, -fighting the war out as a trusted though undistinguished -scout.</p> -<p>After his discharge in 1865, he seems to have -forsaken forever his once peaceful way of life, -and thereafter blood was more than occasionally -to be found upon his hands. His first postwar -killing took place in Springfield, Missouri, -in a duel with a gambler; and later that same -year he was reported to have mortally wounded -another card player in Julesburg, Colorado -Territory. In the next year another report, -unofficial like all the rest, had him killing three -more men in Missouri, and in 1867—this <i>was</i> -official—he went to the booming cow town of -<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span> -Hays City, Kansas, where he was shortly offered -the post of marshal.</p> -<p>That his reputation, whether truthful or -legendary, was growing there can be no question. -By 1867 he was accounted to be one of -the best gunmen of his time and place, quite -possibly for the simple reason that he had survived -so many fights. For all the shadowy -overtones of his story, he was also reputed to -be a devotee of righteousness and order, although -this facet of his character may or may -not actually have existed. He was well known -to be a gambler, and his victims were all (except -the McCanleses) supposed to be cheaters -at cards. Whether his vivacity with Mr. Colt’s -revolver was intended to rid the earth of dishonest -men or merely to avenge a lost hand is -beside the point, for his acceptance of the position -of marshal of Hays City indicates that -for a time, at least, his inclinations lay in the -direction of law and order.</p> -<p>From Hays City he went to a similar post -in Abilene, where he bore the star until 1872. -During all this time he was forced to kill but -a bare minimum of unworthy citizens, his ever -growing repute as a dangerous man with a -gun apparently frightening would-be desperadoes -out of his orbit. Three notches were all -that he placed upon his weapon during his service -in those two hell cities of the prairies—definitely -a world’s record in reverse.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p16.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="794" /> -<p class="pcap">One of the Black Hills’ many streams</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="598" /> -<p class="pcap">The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_99">99</div> -<p>Apparently the inactivity came to bore him, -for he soon gave up police work to return to -the army for two years as a scout. This harsh -calling also failed to satisfy whatever inner -wants were making themselves felt, and in -1874 he resigned to join a traveling show with -Buffalo Bill.</p> -<p>In 1875, however, he was to be found no -longer behind the chemical lights, but idling -his time away in Cheyenne. During this restless -interlude he married a circus rider named -Agnes Lake. Shortly after the ceremony, -which took place in 1876, he followed the trail -to Deadwood, arriving in April and setting up -camp with another ex-army scout. The motives -which drew him to that thriving boom town -were, in all probability, those which drew the -thousands of others—mere curiosity and the -hope that something might turn up. Indeed, -during the four months of his Deadwood hiatus -he did very little but play poker in the famed -saloon known as Number Ten. That he was -as accomplished a gambler as he was a gunman -was doubted by no one, and through his ability -with the pasteboards he apparently kept himself -<span class="pb" id="Page_100">100</span> -in such funds as he needed. He did not -attempt to look for gold, nor did he seek any -official post in the town. He merely played the -long hours away at cards.</p> -<p>One might expect such a man as Wild Bill -Hickok to meet his nemesis in open battle with -a murderous cutthroat seeking to pay off an -old score. Western legend is filled with such -fitting come-uppances. But in this rare case -our hero was killed in a peaceful moment by a -total stranger and for reasons which nobody -was ever thereafter able to discern.</p> -<p>On the fateful day of August 2, 1876, he -entered Number Ten shortly after the lunch -hour to take up his everlasting hand of cards. -Normally, being a prudent man, he insisted on -a seat with its back to a wall, from which vantage -point he could keep his eye cocked for -trouble; but on this day, for some reason, he -arrived just too late to take his customary -position and had to accept a chair with its back -to the door. The game proceeded amiably -enough for a while, and there was nothing in -the afternoon air to suggest violence of any -sort. At last a normally inoffensive deadbeat, -one Jack McCall, turned from the bar where -he had been enjoying a quiet drink and, passing -the gaming table on his way to the door, -<span class="pb" id="Page_101">101</span> -suddenly and without a word pulled his revolver -from his vest and put a shot through -Wild Bill’s skull.</p> -<p>The effect was instantaneous. When the -news spread that Wild Bill had been killed, all -work stopped in the city and men streamed in -from every corner, expecting at the very least -to find a major battle in progress. When finally -the crowds were quieted down and it was -learned that the killing was nothing more than -a mere murder, the populace speedily hunted -up the terrified McCall, whom they found huddled -in a near-by stable, and arranged a formal -trial. The facts that Deadwood was at that -time still out of bounds to American citizens -and therefore under no legitimate civil jurisdiction -and that the judge, jury, and prosecuting -attorney were elected on the spot by a show -of hands, having therefore no official standing, -did not dampen the ardor of the crowd. A trial -was a trial, and its results would presumably -be fair and honest.</p> -<p>As a matter of fact, Jack McCall must have -been the most surprised individual of all at the -ultimate fairness of the legal machinery which -had been set up in his honor. With the acceptance -of his fumbling plea that Hickok had, at -a place unnamed and at a time unnamed, killed -<span class="pb" id="Page_102">102</span> -his brother, McCall was acquitted and turned -free, and Wild Bill was sorrowfully buried by -the admiring populace.</p> -<p>As soon as he was freed, McCall hurried -back to Cheyenne to escape the reach of any of -Hickok’s friends. Unfortunately the story of -the killing followed him there, and under the -mistaken impression that he had undergone a -legitimate trial and was therefore no longer -subject to additional jeopardy, McCall took -no pains to deny the murder. This was a most -foolish tactic on his part, for he was speedily -rearrested and shipped to Yankton, the capital -of South Dakota Territory, where he was held -for a session of the proper court. Inasmuch as -he had admitted before witnesses not only that -he had killed Wild Bill, but also that his earlier -plea had been fabricated from whole cloth, he -had a very slender defense indeed, and was -quickly found guilty and banged.</p> -<p>To the very end no clue could be found to -any sort of sound reason for his having fired -the fatal shot. It was quite definitely proved -that he had never had any dealings with his -victim and had never been in any way offended -by him, and that he no more than knew vaguely -who he was. It was apparently a completely -<span class="pb" id="Page_103">103</span> -aimless killing, the unhappy inspiration of the -moment.</p> -<p>On the other hand, Justice seems forever -determined to get to the bottom of the matter, -for <i>The Trial of Jack McCall</i> has become an -institution of the Black Hills, played, like <i>Ten -Nights in a Barroom</i>, all the summers long in -a popular tavern. Where audiences elsewhere -hiss their Legrees and other purely fictional -villains, the proud residents of Deadwood have -their very own and very real scoundrel for the -target of their malisons—the miserable McCall. -Tourists are cordially invited to join in -the fun and thereby to spread ever farther the -legend of Wild Bill Hickok.</p> -<p>On June 21, 1951, the legend was further -enhanced and improved upon by the presentation -to the city of Deadwood of a brand new -statue of Hickok carved out of a massive -chunk of native granite by the ebullient sculptor, -Ziolkowski. An all-day celebration attended -the unveiling of this statue upon its -pedestal at the foot of Mt. Moriah, and the -zenith of the day’s gaudy reverence was the -reading of an “epic” poem to the hushed populace -of the town over a loud-speaker system -from the top of the mount. The statue is plain -to be seen about a block from the Adams Memorial -<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span> -Museum, and copies of the epic can no -doubt be had by soliciting the Deadwood -Chamber of Commerce.</p> -<p class="tb">Of a somewhat different character from -Wild Bill, but, it is good to report, no less -revered in the Hills, was Preacher Smith.</p> -<p>Frontier towns have been notorious for their -hallowing of persons, both male and female, -who were either expertly good or expertly -bad. This strange compounding of affections -would suggest that the vice or godliness in itself -was unimportant, but that the rough and -crude citizens who populated our earlier settlements -held a genuine admiration and regard -for anyone of any calling who demonstrated -authority and accomplishment.</p> -<p>And thus it was with the Reverend Henry -W. Smith. A man of exceptionally little luck -in life, he gave up his dwindling congregations -in the States and journeyed into the frontier -in 1875, partly because of a zeal in his heart -to bring the Word into the lawless and godless -gold camps, but also, it must be conjectured, -to find some form of weekday employment -which would enable him to care for his wife -and two daughters. The wolf had been howling -at many doors during those years, and parsonages -<span class="pb" id="Page_105">105</span> -which carried even a bare subsistence -stipend were few and far between.</p> -<p>Smith went first to Custer, where he stayed -but a short while, finding little in the way of -work and less in the way of souls to save, since -the rush to Deadwood was then in full force. -Hiring onto a merchandise train as a cook’s -helper, he made his way to that newer city, arriving -early in May of 1876. In a town of such -activity it was not difficult to locate work, and -shortly his hide began to fill out and his purse -to thicken. That purse, it was discovered after -his death, was to be used for the purpose of -bringing his family out to join him.</p> -<p>Working diligently and, of course, soberly -at his menial tasks from Monday through Saturday, -and bravely setting up his pulpit on -the main street on Sundays, Preacher Smith -soon won the respect and even the genial admiration -of the roisterous townspeople. At -first his congregations contained more wandering -dogs than people, but week after week, as -he determinedly kept after his work, an increasingly -large crowd gathered of a Sunday -morning to listen to his sermons.</p> -<p>Thus the entire town was shocked when he -was brutally killed by Indians while walking -to a near-by settlement to preach a sermon. -<span class="pb" id="Page_106">106</span> -Indians were bad enough at best, but killing -a harmless and unarmed preacher was an act -of violence which shook the consciences of the -whole citizen body. It was on those consciences -that the guilt began to press—the guilt of the -knowledge that they had driven him to his -death by their slowness to accept him in their -own community and that he had gone to his -rendezvous seeking a congregation, no matter -how small, that would house him and the Master -he served.</p> -<p>Belatedly gathering to his support, the citizens -passed a sizable hat for the benefit of the -unfortunate man’s widow and daughters. In -addition to the gift of cash, the woman received -an invitation to bring her grieving family to -the Hills, where care would be arranged for -them, including a teaching post for the eldest -daughter. Unfortunately, neither the widow -nor the daughters were in good enough health -to be able to make the rigorous trip, and in -consequence they could not avail themselves of -the hospitality and generosity which were so -late in coming.</p> -<p>Although they had failed to bring the parson’s -family to Deadwood, the worthy citizens -were undaunted in their efforts to memorialize -this modest itinerant who had stumbled unwittingly -<span class="pb" id="Page_107">107</span> -into glory. A great chunk of sandstone -was quarried and a local artist of more verve -than ability proceeded to hack out the parson’s -likeness. The statue was eventually propped -over his grave atop Mount Moriah, the cemetery-museum -where he lies alongside Wild -Bill and Calamity Jane. Unfortunately souvenir -hunters carried on their unworthy custom -over the years, until finally the battered monument, -no longer even recognizable, collapsed. -In the Adams Memorial Hall of Deadwood, -however, there can be seen a certificate signed -in Preacher Smith’s very writing, and thus his -handiwork lives along with his legend.</p> -<p class="tb">All stories of Deadwood in the Black Hills -come, eventually, to the great riddle of Martha -Jane Cannary (sometimes spelled Canary), -known as Calamity Jane.</p> -<p>This gusty female, who rolled around the -West for nearly half a century, has been the -subject of more controversy and speculation -than almost any other early-day character. In -her lifetime she circulated a brief autobiography -which successfully managed to hide the -truth about practically every aspect of her history. -In addition, she manipulated her drab -story in such a way that a whole generation of -<span class="pb" id="Page_108">108</span> -legend-mongers accepted her as the “true love” -of Wild Bill Hickok, and thus by no means to -be thought of as the drunken harlot she most -certainly was.</p> -<p>By dint of careful searching, however, some -few definite facts of her early life and adventures -have been isolated, and upon them at least -the framework of her true story has been constructed. -She appears to have been born in the -neighborhood of 1850—add or subtract a year—in -Missouri. Some accounts have it that her -father was a Baptist minister, which is an unimportant -sidelight, for young Martha Jane -did not stay at home long enough for any such -influence to gnaw its way into her personality.<a class="fn" id="fr_2" href="#fn_2">[2]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_109">109</div> -<p>How she managed to get from Missouri to -Wyoming while still in her early teens remains -a mystery, but nonetheless her career as a camp -follower started when, at the tender age of -fourteen, she arrived in the roaring outpost of -Rawlins. Some tales have it that she had gone -west as the consort of a young army lieutenant, -and that her mother, remarried to a pioneer, -found her in that boisterous military town and -took her to Utah. In any event she came back -into circulation two years later, for in 1866 -she was duly married to one George White in -Cheyenne. Following this felicitous turn of affairs -she and her husband journeyed to Denver, -where he was able to support her in a fine, high -style. Unfortunately, she did not take to this -pleasant existence, but shortly began to yearn -after the cavalry. Leaving her husband to his -<span class="pb" id="Page_110">110</span> -Denver duties, she appeared all during 1867 -and 1868 in various forts throughout Wyoming. -It was at this particular time in her career -that she was supposed to have earned the -nickname of Calamity Jane. Undoubtedly the -title was bestowed upon her by barroom companions -who had learned the sad truth that -Martha Jane’s appearance on the scene boded -a long and arduous night of drinking; but in -her maudlin and confused autobiography she -tells of assisting in an Indian fight and for her -splendid services being gratefully given the -name by a Captain Pat Egan. In a later interview -Egan denied this, claiming that the only -time he had ever seen the woman was while -escorting her out of a barracks so that the men -could get some sleep.</p> -<p>From Wyoming she went to Hays City, -Kansas, still following the Seventh Cavalry, -her chosen military unit. Six years later she -turned up again, this time disguised as a man -and marching with General Crook’s police -force, which was trying to keep settlers out of -the Hills. Her autobiography claims that she -also accompanied Custer’s command on its famous -exploratory march, but this does not appear -to be true.</p> -<p>After the discovery of gold in Deadwood, -<span class="pb" id="Page_111">111</span> -she found the high life in that town so completely -to her liking that she made it her home -base. In time she fastened herself so securely -among the legends of the metropolis that she -was thereafter known solely as Calamity Jane -of Deadwood.</p> -<p>Taking advantage of the high romance -which surrounded Wild Bill’s name after his -death, Calamity made haste to pass the story -around that he had been her only true love; -and although there was no evidence of any -sort that he even knew who she was, her last -words, when she died in 1903, were a plea to -be buried next to him.</p> -<p>In the eighties she became restless again and -forsook her beloved Deadwood for two decades, -roving as far south as El Paso, and on -one occasion being seen in California. Her activities -at this time of her life are mostly lost -from sight, but it may be presumed that as -whatever charms she may earlier have had -faded, her interest to and in the soldiers waned. -During this period she married again, this -time wedding a man named Burke, to whom -she bore a daughter. She soon tired of Burke, -however, and drifted slowly north again, passing -considerable time in Colorado and then -returning briefly to Deadwood in 1895. Even -<span class="pb" id="Page_112">112</span> -at that late date the citizens of the gold town -had not forgotten her, nor had the esteem in -which she had earlier been held dwindled; -when it was discovered that she lacked funds -to care for her daughter, the townspeople -passed the ever present hat and arranged for -the care of the child. This act of generosity was -purportedly to repay a great sacrifice which -Calamity Jane had made in the earlier days, -braving the dangers of the smallpox scourge -of 1878 to nurse whoever was ill and without -help. This particular legend has had wide currency -in the West, its closest variant being the -tale of Silver Heels, a dancing girl who visited -the mining camps of Colorado’s South Park -in the sixties. Silver Heels is popularly supposed -to have ministered to the miners during -a similar plague, for which bravery a near-by -mountain was named for her.</p> -<p>After placing her child in a school, Calamity, -who was destitute, betook herself to the vaudeville -circuit. Inasmuch as through the dime -novels she had already become a well-known -national figure, she was able for a while to -draw large crowds. Had it not been for her -unfortunate habit of getting dead drunk before -show time, she might well have amassed a -<span class="pb" id="Page_113">113</span> -competence over the years. But her first contract -was not renewed, and after a brief whirl -at the Buffalo Exposition she returned to the -West, spending the next several years in Montana.</p> -<p>At last she came home to Deadwood, a sick -and broken old roustabout. By this time she -was nothing more than a bar-fly, and she lived -out her last days panhandling food and liquor -money from strangers. At last, on August 2, -1903, she died of pneumonia.</p> -<p>Deadwood turned out in force for her funeral. -As she had requested, she was buried -near Wild Bill Hickok on Mount Moriah, -overlooking the town. That she had never -really known Wild Bill was quite beside the -point, and anyway, there was none present -who knew whether she had or not. The shoddy -story of her “love” for Hickok was nothing -that interested the old timers, but was saved -for historians to untangle. That she was no -more than an alcoholic old harlot was of no -consequence, either, to the good citizens, for -with her passing the last of the great names of -the frontier was coming home to rest. That the -townspeople were proud of her, and genuinely -so, was not to be denied, although there was -<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span> -most certainly nobody present at that melancholy -service who could have told why. The -truth of the matter was that they were burying -not a broken old woman, but the last of the -Black Hills legends.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_115">115</div> -<h2 id="c6"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER SIX</span></span> -<br />The White River Badlands</h2> -<p>Any visit to the Black Hills must also be -the occasion of a tour, at least for a few -hours, of the famous South Dakota Badlands. -This fantastic National Monument is not a -part of the Hills, either geographically or historically, -but because the two regions lie so -close together—a scant fifty miles apart—they -are expediently linked as two great natural -wonders in the same region.</p> -<p>The term “badlands” has a loose scientific -acceptance, meaning any region where a specific -type of heavy erosion has taken place. -Such regions usually have subnormal rainfall -and sparse vegetation. Those rains that do -occur, then, find little on the earth’s surface -to prevent almost complete runoff, which is so -vigorous as to act as a powerful cutting agent. -<span class="pb" id="Page_116">116</span> -The final ingredients of a badlands are rock -formations known as unconsolidated—lacking -any general unity of structure which might -tend to withstand erosion. When all these conditions -exist, the devastation of the rushing -flood waters is without pattern, a great gash -being carved in one spot while no damage is -visible on a near-by outcropping. The end result -is an almost frightening collection of gruesome -stone monuments rising to the sky and -marking the heights once reached by a general -plateau.</p> -<p>Actually, much of the high western plain -abutting on the Rocky Mountains is basic badland -formation, and small pockets of distinct -erosion can be seen all through eastern Colorado, -western Nebraska, and eastern Wyoming, -in addition to the vast depression in the -valleys of the White and Cheyenne rivers in -South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five -miles long and five to fifteen miles wide, -is the largest and from the geologist’s point -of view the most important of all such regions -in the world. Desolate, empty, seared by ages -of sun and wind, it is now a great gash in the -earth’s flesh which exposes to view rock and -soil strata that measure a great span of earth’s -history.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_117">117</div> -<p>In addition to the splendid opportunity to -see and study the various layers of the earth’s -surface going back as far as sixty million years, -the very composition of badlands formations -makes any such region a veritable museum of -fossils and petrified animal relics. The South -Dakota Badlands have turned up absolute -treasures of such paleontological finds, enabling -scientists to trace the evolution of mammalian -life all the way back to the appearance -on earth of the first carnivorous animals—the -vastly distant ancestors of the dog. And the -Badlands are noted not only for the great -span in geologic time of their fossil beds, but -also for the number of different types which -have been found in their ancient soil, more -than 250 different prehistoric animals having -been discovered in various stages of fossilized -preservation in this general region.</p> -<p>The tourist, though, need not be even an -amateur student of geology or paleontology -to be thrilled and awed by a visit to this grotesque -but beautiful area. The mere colors -of the various rock strata, ever changing under -the light patterns of sun and cloud, provide a -never-to-be-forgotten experience. One of the -most articulate tributes to the grandeur of the -Badlands is that of Frank Lloyd Wright:</p> -<blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_118">118</div> -<p>Speaking of our trip to the South Dakota Badlands, -I’ve been about the world a lot and pretty much over -our own country but I was totally unprepared for the -revelation called the Badlands. What I saw gave me an -indescribable sense of the mysterious otherwhere—a -distant architecture, ethereal, touched, only touched, -with a sense of Egyptian-Mayan drift and silhouette. -As we came closer, a templed realm definitely stood -ambient in the air before my astonished “scene”-loving -but “scene”-jaded gaze.</p> -<p>Yes, I say the aspects of the South Dakota Badlands -have more spiritual quality to impart to the mind of -America than anything else in it made by Man’s God.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The word “badlands,” which now has a genuine -scientific meaning, was taken into our -vocabulary from the folk name for this very -region. In the earliest days of North American -exploration, far back before the Revolution, -French trappers had braved this empty -wasteland on their endless quest for new fur -grounds, and had brought back tales of this -lost world of silence and strange shapes. They -were the ones who gave it the name Badlands, -but they were only translating directly the -Sioux name, Mako Sika, which meant, precisely, -lands bad for traveling.</p> -<p>To the early explorers the badlands meant -only that—high escarpments to be overcome; -twisting, winding, endless canyons from which -there were no outlets; crumbling rock underfoot -<span class="pb" id="Page_119">119</span> -on the three-hundred-foot crawls from -the canyon bottoms to the table-tops; and the -hot, shimmering distances of this forbidding -terrain as far as the eye could see.</p> -<p>It was, as a matter of fact, the existence of -this area that helped keep the Black Hills nothing -more than an empty question mark on -maps until the rumors of gold began to circulate. -The first American explorers, who -might have discovered the natural wonders of -the Hills in the 1820’s, found their paths diverted -to the north and the south by this impassable -valley, and consequently missed the Hills.</p> -<p>The first reliable record of the wonders of -this lost world was dated 1847. That year, it -will be remembered, was one of great moment -in the history of the western movement—the -year that Brigham Young braved the high -prairies and pathless mountains with his great -exodus, settling an empire on the shores of -Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails -were fairly well established by then, his was -the first of the true migrations, and the gold -rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and -the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come.</p> -<p>In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor -Hiram A. Prout of St. Louis came somehow -into contact with a representative of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_120">120</span> -American Fur Company, which ran substantial -trapping operations all up the wide Missouri -and its tributaries. How this meeting -came about is lost to record, but we do know -that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a -souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands -of Dakota—a fragment of the lower jaw -of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be quarried -out of the region and used for scientific -purposes.</p> -<p>In that same year a second Badlands fossil -turned up, this one a well-preserved head of an -ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the -great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true -academic ardor both of these gentlemen, Leidy -and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly -print, describing in learned journals the -nature of their trophies. Enjoying the slender -circulation of academic publication, the essays -which described these fossil wonders eventually -found their way into the offices of the government’s -geological survey, which acted quickly -to dispatch an expedition to the overlooked -region of their origin.</p> -<p>That first exploring party, the David Owen -Survey, went into the field in 1849. A prominent -scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached -to the group, and from his pen we have -<span class="pb" id="Page_121">121</span> -several sketches of this pioneer adventure into -the empty wastelands. If these drawings look -more like studies of Dante’s Inferno than like -the breath-taking Badlands as they really are, -it must be remembered that such geological -formations had never before been visited by -the members of that party, and, being completely -alien to the America of their knowledge, -impressed them every bit as a visit to the -moon might have done.</p> -<p>The Owens party was merely the vanguard -of the great army of brave men and women -who have ever since made their dangerous ways -into the remotest distances of the mountain -and desert West, seeking neither riches of gold -nor riches of land, but only more minute bits -of the knowledge of the world of our past. -Archeologists, geologists, and paleontologists -from universities and learned societies the -world over have spent liberally of their time, -energies, and personal safety to scout out the -secrets of mankind’s past in such remote corners -of the earth as the Badlands. Year after -year additional expeditions, both governmental -and privately organized, made their way into -this particular area, seeking out the fossil remains -which turned up in great numbers.</p> -<p>V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological -<span class="pb" id="Page_122">122</span> -Survey was one of the most diligent of the -early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands -in 1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying -on detailed and exhaustive studies and eventually -unraveling the story of the region’s -major geologic features.</p> -<p>As Hayden’s reports became more and more -widely circulated, various universities found -projects of specific interest in one or another -phase of the work of uncovering fossil beds; -and from year to year Yale, Princeton, Amherst, -the universities of South Dakota and -Nebraska, and other institutions sent groups -into the Badlands for summer work. Gradually, -as these several groups exchanged information -and reports of progress, it became -possible for their scientists to trace back, -through the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals, -the very processes of the evolution of -many entire families in the animal kingdom. -Not only are the fossil beds of the Badlands -as richly stocked with remains as any such bed -in the world, but in a great many instances -entire groups of three, four, and five whole -skeletons have been found, making it possible -for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly -the animals as they existed and to set up -models of the terrain at various intervals -<span class="pb" id="Page_123">123</span> -throughout its entire sixty-million-year history.</p> -<p>Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as -view-worthy section of the Badlands is Sheep -Mountain, located at the far west end of the -Monument. Down from the summit runs a -great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon, -named for the fact that the South Dakota -State School of Mines at Rapid City long ago -chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological -research. Under the guidance of -famed Dr. Cleophas O’Harra, for many years -president of that institution, groups of Mines -students went on extended annual encampments -on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among -other rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric -midget horse, the saber-toothed tiger, and camels. -It was this last discovery that lent considerable -support to the concept, conjectural at -the time of Dr. O’Harra’s discoveries, that a -land bridge had once connected North America -and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples -and animals from the old world into the new. -School of Mines Canyon, while some distance -off the main highway leading from Pierre to -the Black Hills, is by all means worth the time -required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen -miles from the town of Scenic.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_124">124</div> -<p>The Badlands are reached by Highway -14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming from -the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take -route 40 directly to the town of Scenic, forty-seven -miles distant. From Scenic, in addition -to connecting with the side trip to Sheep -Mountain, 40 continues along the north wall -of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass and -out the east end of the region, merging at -Kadoka with Highway 16, or, by means of a -nine-mile connection, with 14.</p> -<p>Should the weather be bad and State 40 not -recommended by local informers, the route is -out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five -miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access -road through the Pinnacles, down into the -Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar -Pass, and joining State 40.</p> -<p>From the east, Highway 16 goes through -Kadoka, from which town State 40 should be -taken, leading in through Cedar Pass, and out -either through Scenic and on to Rapid City, or -at the Pinnacles, through Wall and back on -14-16. Coming from Pierre on 14, the tourist -must leave that highway a few miles beyond -the town of Philip and make the nine-mile detour -on 16 to Kadoka, from there going on to -Cedar Pass as described.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_125">125</div> -<p>Several railroads serve the Badlands and its -general region, notably the Chicago & Northwestern, -the Burlington, and the Chicago, -Milwaukee, and St. Paul. This last road, the -“Milwaukee,” offers the traveler the best view -of the region, winding up the White River -Valley the entire sixty-five miles between Kadoka -and Scenic, and providing the passenger -with unparalleled if hasty views of some of the -most rugged and isolated portions of all the -area.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_126">126</div> -<h2 id="c7"><span class="small">Bibliography</span></h2> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Allsman, Paul T.</span> <i>Reconnaissance of Gold Mining Districts in -the Black Hills, South Dakota.</i> U.S. Bureau of Mines, No. -427. Washington, D. C.: U.S. Dept. of Interior, 1940.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Baldwin, G. P.</span>, editor. <i>The Black Hills Illustrated.</i> Philadelphia: -Baldwin Syndicate, 1904.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Carpenter, F. R.</span> <i>The Mineral Resources of the Black Hills.</i> -South Dakota School of Mines Preliminary Report, No. 1. -Rapid City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1888.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Casey, Robert J.</span> <i>The Black Hills.</i> New York: Bobbs-Merrill -Co., 1949.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Dick, Everett.</span> <i>Vanguards of the Frontier.</i> New York: D. -Appleton-Century Co., 1941.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Eloe, Frank.</span> “Rushmore Cave,” <i>Black Hills Engineer</i>, XXIV -(December, 1938), 274.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Fenton, C. L.</span> “South Dakota’s Badlands,” <i>Nature Magazine</i>, -XXIV (August, 1941), 370-74.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Glasscock, C. B.</span> <i>The Big Bonanza.</i> Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill -Co., 1931.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hans, Fred.</span> <i>The Great Sioux Nation.</i> Chicago: Donahue, 1907.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hayden, F. V.</span> and <span class="sc">Meek, F. B.</span> “Remarks on Geology of the -Black Hills,” <i>Academy of Natural Science Proceedings.</i> -Philadelphia: Academy of Natural Science, 1858, X, 41-59.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Hough, Emerson.</span> <i>The Passing of the Frontier.</i> New Haven: -Yale University Press, 1921.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Kingsbury, G. W.</span> <i>History of Dakota Territory.</i> Chicago: The -S. J. Clarke Co., 1915.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Lake, Stuart.</span> <i>Wyatt Earp.</i> Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1931.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Mirsky, Jeannette.</span> <i>The Westward Crossings.</i> New York: Alfred -A. Knopf, 1946.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Newton, Henry.</span> <i>Geology of the Black Hills.</i> Washington, -D. C.: United States Geographical and Geological Survey, -1880.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">O’Harra, C. C.</span> “The Gold Mining Industry of the Black Hills,” -<i>Black Hills Engineer</i>, XIX (January, 1931), 3-9.</p> -<p class="book">——. <i>The White River Badlands.</i> Department of Geology, -No. 13. Rapid City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1920.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Rothrach, E. P.</span> <i>A Hydrologic Study of the White River Valley. -South Dakota Geological Survey Report.</i> Vermillion, -South Dakota: University of South Dakota, February, 1942.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Todd, James Edward.</span> <i>A Preliminary Report on the Geology of -South Dakota.</i> South Dakota Geological Survey, No. 1. -Vermillion: University of South Dakota, 1894.</p> -<p class="book"><span class="sc">Tullis, E. L.</span> “The Geology of the Black Hills,” <i>Black Hills -Engineer</i>, XXV (April, 1939), 26-38.</p> -<h2><span class="small">Footnotes</span></h2> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>For an account of the history and natural wonders -of Estes Park, readers are referred to a previous book -in this series, <i>Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies</i>, by -Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_2" href="#fr_2">[2]</a>A treasured manuscript journal kept by the author’s -great-uncle, who was for many years curator of the Colorado -State Historical Society’s museum in Denver, reports -an interview with Calamity Jane some time before -her death which convinced him that the facts were substantially -as they are stated here.</div> -<div class="fncont">On the other hand, Mr. Will G. Robinson, the eminent -State Historian of South Dakota, reports: “On the authority -of Dr. McGillicuddy, who was a medico at Ft. -Laramie, and whose original letter I have, I would be -entirely certain that she was born at Ft. Laramie, of a -couple by the name of Dalton. Dalton was a soldier, -was discharged and went out a short distance west to -LaBonte. Here he was killed by Indians, although his -wife got back into the fort with one eye gouged out, after -which she shortly died. Her child got her name—Calamity—by -reason of this disaster. She was not much over -40 when she died in 1903.”</div> -<div class="fncont">The discrepancy between these two accounts, both -studiously researched and documented by men whose -professional careers have been given over to solving puzzles -of this nature with which western history abounds, -is typical of the disagreement among well-authenticated -reports of the birth and early life of this female enigma.</div> -<div class="fncont">In any event, it is a matter which is still subject to -a maximum amount of conjecture, and for a much more -complete account of the variant clues readers are enthusiastically -referred to Nolie Mumey’s <i>Calamity Jane</i> -(Denver: Privately printed, 1949). -</div> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_127">127</div> -<h2 id="c8"><span class="small">Index</span></h2> -<p class="center"><a class="ab" href="#index_A">A</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_B">B</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_C">C</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_D">D</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_E">E</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_F">F</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_G">G</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_H">H</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_I">I</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_J">J</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_K">K</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_L">L</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_Mc">Mc</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_M">M</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_N">N</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_O">O</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_P">P</a> <span class="ab">Q</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_R">R</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_S">S</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_T">T</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_U">U</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_V">V</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_W">W</a> <span class="ab">X</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_Y">Y</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_Z">Z</a></p> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_A"><b>A</b></dt> -<dt>Abilene (Kan.), <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></dt> -<dt>Adams Memorial Museum, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></dt> -<dt>Alaska, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt> -<dt>Algonkian Period, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt> -<dt>American Fur Company, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt> -<dt>Amherst College, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt> -<dt>Anchor City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Archean Period, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>-18</dt> -<dt>Archean sea, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt>Atlantic (Iowa), <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_B"><b>B</b></dt> -<dt>Badlands, White River, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>-17</dt> -<dt>Bass, Sam, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>-81, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>-83, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt> -<dt>Battle Mountain, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Beadle & Adams, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></dt> -<dt>Beaver Creek, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt> -<dt>Belle Fourche (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt>Belle Fourche River, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></dt> -<dt>Belle Fourche Round-up, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt> -<dt>Big Horn Basin, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt> -<dt>Big Horn River, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt> -<dt>Bismarck (S.D.), <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt> -<dt>Black Bart, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Black Hills & Badlands Assn., <a href="#Page_44">44</a></dt> -<dt>Black Hills Range Days, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt> -<dt>Black Hills Teachers College, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt>Black Moon (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt> -<dt>Blackfeet tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Blodgett, Sam, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></dt> -<dt>Borglum, Gutzon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>-39</dt> -<dt>Bozeman Trail, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-53</dt> -<dt>Brule tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></dt> -<dt>“Broken Hand.” <i>See</i> Fitzpatrick, Thomas</dt> -<dt>Buffalo Bill, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt> -<dt>Burlington Railroad, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_C"><b>C</b></dt> -<dt>Calamity Jane, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-91, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-11</dt> -<dt><i>Calamity Jane</i>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>California, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt> -<dt>Cambrian Period, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>-20</dt> -<dt>Cambrian sea, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt>Canyon Springs, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></dt> -<dt>Carlsbad Caverns, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></dt> -<dt>Carson, Kit, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></dt> -<dt>Cathedral Park, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt>Central City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Cheyenne (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>-61, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>-81, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt> -<dt>Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt>Cheyenne Indians, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Cheyenne River, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt> -<dt>Chicago (Ill.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Clarke, Dick, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt> -<dt>Colorado, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-33, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></dt> -<dt>Coolidge, President Calvin, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt> -<dt>Crazy Horse (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>-67</dt> -<dt>Cripple Creek (Colo.), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt> -<dt>Crocker, Charles, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Crook, General, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-66, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt> -<dt>Crystal Cave, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></dt> -<dt>Custer (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>-11, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>-31, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>-43, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>-71, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></dt> -<dt>Custer, General George Armstrong, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>-57, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-67, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Custer State Park, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>Custer’s Last Stand, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_D"><b>D</b></dt> -<dt>Darrall, Duke, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt> -<dt>Days of ’76, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></dt> -<dt>Dead Man’s Hand (poker), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></dt> -<dt>Deadtree Gulch, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_128">128</dt> -<dt>Deadwood (S.D.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>-84, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>-6, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>-11</dt> -<dt>Deadwood City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_76">76</a></dt> -<dt>Deadwood Dick, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-94</dt> -<dt>Deadwood Dick, Jr., <a href="#Page_92">92</a></dt> -<dt>Deadwood Gulch, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt> -<dt>Denver (Colo.), <a href="#Page_3">3</a>-4, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>Devonian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt>Dodge, General Grenville, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt> -<dt>Dodge City (Kan.), <a href="#Page_84">84</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_E"><b>E</b></dt> -<dt>Earp, Wyatt, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>-86</dt> -<dt>Egan, Capt. Pat, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt> -<dt>Estes Park, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></dt> -<dt>Evans, Fred T., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Evans Hotel, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Evans, John, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_F"><b>F</b></dt> -<dt>Fair, James, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Fellows, Dick, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Fitzpatrick, Thomas, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Ellis, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Fetterman, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Laramie, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>-52, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Lincoln, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Pierre, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Fort Sully, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt> -<dt>French Creek, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_G"><b>G</b></dt> -<dt>Gall (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt> -<dt>Game Lodge, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>-33</dt> -<dt>Gayville (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Gibbon, General John, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-65</dt> -<dt>Gold, discovered in the Black Hills, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></dt> -<dt>Gold Discovery Days, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt> -<dt>Golden Gate (S.D.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Golden Star mine, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt> -<dt>Golden Terra mine, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt> -<dt>Gordon party, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></dt> -<dt>Great Plains, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_H"><b>H</b></dt> -<dt>Haggin, James Ben Ali, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></dt> -<dt>Harney Peak, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>-36, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt> -<dt>Harney-Sanborne Treaty, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></dt> -<dt>Hayden, V. F., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></dt> -<dt>Hays City (Kan.), <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt> -<dt>Hearst, Senator George, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>-75</dt> -<dt>Hearst, William Randolph, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></dt> -<dt>Hickok, Wild Bill, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>-97, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-8</dt> -<dt>Hinckley’s Overland Express, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt> -<dt>Homestake Mine, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>-76, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></dt> -<dt>Homestake Mining Co., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt> -<dt>Hot Springs (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>-9, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_I"><b>I</b></dt> -<dt>Ice Cave, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>-44</dt> -<dt>Inkpaduta (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></dt> -<dt><i>Inter-Ocean</i>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_J"><b>J</b></dt> -<dt>Jefferson, President Thomas, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt> -<dt>Jenney Stockade, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt> -<dt>Jennings, Dr., <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Jewel Cave, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></dt> -<dt>Jones, Seth, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></dt> -<dt>Julesburg (Colo.), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_K"><b>K</b></dt> -<dt>Kansas, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt> -<dt>Kansas City (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Kind, Ezra, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_L"><b>L</b></dt> -<dt>Lake, Agnes, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dt> -<dt>Laramie (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></dt> -<dt>Last Chance Gulch, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt> -<dt>Lead (S.D.), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt> -<dt><i>Legend of Sam Bass</i>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></dt> -<dt>Leidy, Dr. Joseph, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt> -<dt>Lincoln, President Abraham, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt> -<dt>Lincoln Highway, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></dt> -<dt>Little Big Horn River, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></dt> -<dt>Luenen (Germany), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Mc"><b>Mc</b></dt> -<dt>McCall, Jack, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102</dt> -<dt>McCanles gang, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></dt> -<dt>McKay, William T., <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_M"><b>M</b></dt> -<dt>Manuel, Fred, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>-75</dt> -<dt>Manuel, Moses, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>-75</dt> -<dt>Meier, Joseph, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_129">129</dt> -<dt>Miles City (Mont.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt>Minneapolis (Minn.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt>Minnekahta Canyon, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Minnesota, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt> -<dt>Minniconjou tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Mississippian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt>Missouri, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Missouri River, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt> -<dt>Missouri Valley, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt> -<dt>Mogollon (mountains), <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Montana, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt> -<dt>Mount Coolidge, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></dt> -<dt>Mount Evans, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt>Mount Moriah Cemetery, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></dt> -<dt>Mount Rushmore, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41</dt> -<dt>Mount Washington, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt>Mumey, Nolie, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>Murietta, Joaquin, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_N"><b>N</b></dt> -<dt>National Park Service, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></dt> -<dt>Nebraska, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt> -<dt>Needles, The, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt>Needles Highway, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-35</dt> -<dt>Nevada, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></dt> -<dt>Newcastle (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_43">43</a></dt> -<dt>Niobrara River, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></dt> -<dt>North America, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></dt> -<dt>North Platte River, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></dt> -<dt>Number Ten, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>-100</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_O"><b>O</b></dt> -<dt>Oglala tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt> -<dt>O’Harra, Dr. Cleophas, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></dt> -<dt>Omaha (Neb.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Ordovician Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt>Oregon Trail, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt> -<dt>Oregon-California Trail, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></dt> -<dt>Owen Survey, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_P"><b>P</b></dt> -<dt>Paha Sapa (Indian name for Black Hills), <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt> -<dt>Paleozoic Era, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt> -<dt>Passion Play, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt> -<dt>Pearson, John, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>-72</dt> -<dt>Pierre (S.D.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt> -<dt>Pikes Peak, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></dt> -<dt>Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt> -<dt>Platte River, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt> -<dt>Platte River-Oregon Trail, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Platte Valley, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt> -<dt>Portland-Independence Mine, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt> -<dt>Powder River Valley, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt> -<dt>Preacher Smith, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-91, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>-5</dt> -<dt>Princeton University, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt> -<dt>Prout, Prof. Hiram, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>-20</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_R"><b>R</b></dt> -<dt>Rapid City (S.D.), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>-7, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>-14, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Rawlins (Wyo.), <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>Red Cloud (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_52">52</a>-53</dt> -<dt>Reno, Major, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-68</dt> -<dt>Reynolds, Charley, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt> -<dt>Rhodes, Eugene Manlove, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></dt> -<dt>Rio Grande Valley, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></dt> -<dt>Robinson, Will, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt> -<dt>Roosevelt, President Theodore, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt> -<dt>Rosebud Creek, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></dt> -<dt>Ross, H. N., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_S"><b>S</b></dt> -<dt>St. Joseph (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></dt> -<dt>St. Louis (Mo.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></dt> -<dt>St. Paul (Minn.), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>San Arc tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>San Francisco (Calif.), <a href="#Page_74">74</a>-75</dt> -<dt>Santa Fe Trail, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Santee Sioux, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></dt> -<dt>School of Mines Canyon, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></dt> -<dt>Seventh Cavalry, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dt> -<dt>Sheridan, General Phil, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-57</dt> -<dt>Sidney (Neb.), <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Sidney Short Route, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Silurian Period, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt>Silver Heels, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></dt> -<dt>Sioux Indians, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></dt> -<dt>Sioux War, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></dt> -<dt>Sitting Bull (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>-67</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_130">130</dt> -<dt>Smith, Rev. Henry. <i>See</i> Preacher Smith</dt> -<dt>South Dakota, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt> -<dt>Spearfish (S.D.), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt> -<dt>Spencer, Joseph, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt>Springfield (Mo.), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -<dt>Standing Bear (Indian Chief), <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt> -<dt>Stanford, Leland, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Sunday Creek, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></dt> -<dt>Sylvan Lake, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-36, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_T"><b>T</b></dt> -<dt><i>Ten Nights in a Barroom</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt> -<dt>Terry, General, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>-64</dt> -<dt>Teton Sioux, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Texas Rangers, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></dt> -<dt>Thoen, Louis, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></dt> -<dt>Thunderhead Mountain, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41</dt> -<dt><i>Trial of Jack McCall, The</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt> -<dt>Triassic Period, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt>Two Kettle tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_U"><b>U</b></dt> -<dt>Union Pacific Railroad, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>University of Nebraska, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt> -<dt>University of South Dakota, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt> -<dt>Unkpapa tribe, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></dt> -<dt>Ussher, Archbishop James, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></dt> -<dt>Utah, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_V"><b>V</b></dt> -<dt>Vale of Minnekahta, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt>Virginia City (Nev.), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_W"><b>W</b></dt> -<dt>War Department, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></dt> -<dt>Washington (D.C.), <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></dt> -<dt>Washington, President George, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></dt> -<dt>Wells Fargo, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>-84</dt> -<dt>Wheeler, Edward L., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></dt> -<dt>White, George, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>White River, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></dt> -<dt>White River Badlands. <i>See</i> Badlands</dt> -<dt>Wild Bill Hickok, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>-97, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>-102, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-8</dt> -<dt>Wind Cave, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>-29, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>-44</dt> -<dt>Wind Cave Park, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></dt> -<dt>Witwatersrand, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></dt> -<dt>Wood Lake, battle of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></dt> -<dt>Wright, Frank Lloyd, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></dt> -<dt>Wyoming, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Y"><b>Y</b></dt> -<dt>Yale University, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dt> -<dt>Yankton (S.D.), <a href="#Page_102">102</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Z"><b>Z</b></dt> -<dt>Ziolkowski, Korczak, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-41, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dt> -</dl> -<hr /> -<p><span class="lr">$2.50</span></p> -<h3 id="c9"><span class="large">THE BLACK HILLS</span> -<br /><span class="small">MID-CONTINENT RESORT</span></h3> -<p>From taboo Indian fastness to roaring gold -camp to modern resort and recreation area—so -runs the history of the Black Hills, -Paha Sapa of the Indians, which are really -not hills at all but mountains, the highest -east of the Rockies. Back through geologic -ages the story extends, to the thunderous -time when Nature fashioned the intricate -formations of the Hills and their companion -geologic marvel, the Badlands.</p> -<p>Here, in racy and fluent prose, Albert N. -Williams has brought the full sweep of this -story to life, from its beginning in the -mighty geologic upheaval that, before the -Alps had been formed, thrust the giant spire -of Harney Peak up through the ancient -shale, to the present quiet rest of man-made -Sylvan Lake, where it lies peacefully -reflecting its great granite shields for the -delight of the traveler.</p> -<p>On the way he tells of the discovery of -gold in this “mysterious and brooding dark -mountain-land” just when gold-hungry men -had decided that the bonanza days were -gone forever; of the Indian fighting that -reached its tragic climax at the Little Big -Horn; of the development of the Homestake, -one of earth’s greatest mines; of the -hazardous stage-coach journeys on which -“shotgun messengers” guarded chests of -bullion; and, most fascinating of all, of the -amazing personalities—Sam Bass and Wyatt -Earp and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity -Jane and Preacher Smith—who inhabited -the Hills in their gaudiest days or, like -Deadwood Dick, lived a no less vivid life in -the pages of dime novels.</p> -<p>If this were all, <i>The Black Hills</i> would -be a book for any lover of our country’s -natural glories and thrilling history to pick -up and be unable to lay down again until he -had finished it. But other chapters directed -particularly to the tourist make it also a -book for the traveler to keep always with -him and to consult at every point in his -journey through the Black Hills. All he -needs to know is here—the highways to take -into the Hills, the towns with their historic -plays and celebrations, the peaks and lakes -and caves he will find, the sports he may enjoy, -the places where he may stay. A trip so -guided cannot fail to be filled with the excitement -the author himself has found in the -Black Hills, of which he says that in his -opinion “no other resort area in the United -States possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions.”</p> -<p class="tb">Albert N. Williams was for many years a -writer for NBC in New York, and for two -years Editor-in-Chief of the English features -section of the Voice of America. He is -the author of <i>Listening</i>, <i>Rocky Mountain -Country</i>, <i>The Water and the Power</i>, and -numerous short fiction pieces in national -magazines. He is at present Director of Development -of the University of Denver.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="Southern Methodist University Press Logo" width="200" height="224" /> -</div> -<p class="center"><span class="sc">Southern Methodist University Press -<br />Dallas 5, Texas</span></p> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - -***** This file should be named 55088-h.htm or 55088-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/8/55088/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort - American Resort Series No. 4 - -Author: Albert Nathaniel Williams - -Release Date: July 11, 2017 [EBook #55088] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - The Black Hills - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - - - BY Albert N. Williams - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES NO. 4 - - Southern Methodist University Press - 1952 - - COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY - SOUTHERN METHODIST UNIVERSITY PRESS - PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - BY AMERICAN BOOK--STRATFORD PRESS, INC., NEW YORK - - - AMERICAN RESORT SERIES - - No. 1: Gatlinburg: Gateway to the Great Smokies, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 2: Taxco: Mexico's Silver City, _by Edwin J. Foscue_ - No. 3: Estes Park: Resort in the Rockies, _by Edwin J. Foscue and - Louis O. Quam_ - No. 4: The Black Hills: Mid-Continent Resort, _by Albert N. Williams_ - - - For Chris - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -The research on early Black Hills and Badlands history was ably assisted -by Miss June Carothers, whose services were provided the author through -a generous grant-in-aid by the University of Denver's Bureau of -Humanities and Social Development. - -Miss Ina T. Aulls, Mrs. Alys Freeze, Mrs. Opal Harber, Miss Margery -Bedinger, Mrs. Margaret Simonds, Mrs. Elizabeth Kingston, and Mrs. Clara -Cutright, all of the Denver Public Library, are particularly to be -thanked for placing the resources of that institution at my disposal. - -For assistance in preparing the manuscript, I wish to thank Miss Helen -Kiamos, Miss Edith Goldfarb, and Miss Lillian Helling. - -I am indebted to Bell Photo of Rapid City for the photograph of the -Needles highway; to Ned Perrigoue of Rapid City for that of Sylvan Lake; -to the Denver Public Library Western Collection for those of Calamity -Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Deadwood Gulch in 1881; and to Mr. A. H. -Pankow of the South Dakota State Highway Commission for that of a Black -Hills stream. - -And finally, as always, thanks go to my wife, Ann, for her patient -editorial help. - - Albert N. Williams - - _University of Denver - Denver, Colorado_ - - - Books by Albert N. Williams - - LISTENING - ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUNTRY - THE WATER AND THE POWER - THE BOOK BY MY SIDE - - - - - Contents - - - I The Black Hills: The Forbidden Land 1 - II The Formation of the Black Hills 15 - III The Hills Today 27 - IV History I: Indians and Gold 47 - V History II: Deadwood Days 78 - VI The White River Badlands 115 - Bibliography 126 - Index 127 - - - - - Illustrations - - - Along the Needles Highway _facing page_ 34 - Harney Peak--older by ages than the Rockies 35 - The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial 50 - Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an elevation of 6,250 - feet 51 - Calamity Jane, during her carnival days 82 - Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait 82 - Cheyenne--Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded by shotgun - messengers 82 - Deadwood Gulch in 1881 83 - Modern Deadwood--seventy years later 83 - One of the Black Hills' many streams 98 - The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared 99 - - - - - Introduction - - -I have had an opportunity to enjoy one of the most readable accounts of -the Black Hills I have ever come across. It is written to acquaint -traveling America with an area which was long off the beaten path of -tourists, and which has only during the past quarter century been -recognized as a place where people who wish to "Know America First" may -profitably spend some time. - -Mr. Williams has outlined the historical reason why this small -wonderland was so long outside the consciousness of America, and he has -devoted a chapter to telling about the methods of nature in producing -the intricacies of this formation, older by far than the Alps or the -Himalayas. He has made the subject live, and he includes enough expert -terminology to satisfy the reader that he knows whereof he speaks. - -In his chapter on "The Hills Today" Mr. Williams outlines what the -tourist should see, and how to see it. For that chapter alone his book -would be well worth the attention of every prospective sight-seer. He -has two chapters pertaining to the history of the region, the first -speculating on how the whole economic growth of the West might well have -been altered had a confirmed story of "gold in the Black Hills" been -released fifty years before it was spread-eagled on the pages of the -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_. It is an interesting speculation, and he gives it -a pleasing reality. - -Another chapter deals with the lives of some of the characters exploited -and given semi-permanent fame by the old dime novels. Deadwood without -these characters would be just another picturesque town set down in a -mountain valley; with them it becomes one of America's better-known hot -spots, vying with the Klondike and Leadville. - -Mr. Williams' last chapter on the Badlands, a neighboring phenomenon, a -place of amazing mystery and strange disorder, serves to depict what -might be termed the undepictable in terms exactly calculated to excite -the reader's absorbed interest. - - Will G. Robinson - - _South Dakota State Historical Society - Pierre, South Dakota - December 17, 1951_ - - - - - CHAPTER ONE - The Black Hills: - The Forbidden Land - - -The thing to remember is that the Black Hills are not hills at all. They -are mountains, the highest mountains east of the Rockies, with Harney -Peak rising to a height of 7,242 feet above sea level. Inasmuch as the -prairie floor averages, at the four entrances to the Hills, only 3,200 -feet in elevation, these are mountains of considerable stature. - -The title "hills" was by no means given the area by early white -settlers. Indeed, if that majestic domain had not already been named the -Black Hills by the Indians, George Armstrong Custer, who in 1874 made -the first full-scale exploration of the region, would no doubt have -dignified it with a more appropriate and properly descriptive name--the -Sioux or the Dakota Mountains, in all probability. - -From time beyond remembrance, however, the region had been known to the -Indians as Paha Sapa, exactly to be translated as "Black Hills," and -very properly that name was accepted by government geographers. The use -of the word "black" possibly fulfilled several functions, for not only -do these massive peaks appear decidedly black when seen against the -horizon across distances as great as a hundred miles, but they were, to -the superstitious braves of the Teton Sioux, the abode of the Thunders -and studiously to be avoided. - -This taboo fastness was one of the last regions in the great American -West to be explored and settled. For one reason, it enjoyed an isolation -from the centers of development that served to discourage any but the -most hardy of explorers. Lying in the extreme western end of present-day -South Dakota, the Black Hills were two hundred miles west of the -settlements around Pierre, on the Missouri River, and two hundred miles -north of the towns along the North Platte, the valley of the -Oregon-California Trail. The most important reason, though, for its -belated opening was that gold was not discovered in the Black Hills -until 1874, and it was the discovery of gold in various sections which -more than any other single set of circumstances dictated the pattern of -the development of the trans-Mississippi West. - -Even today this fascinating region remains nearly the most remote of all -America's resort and recreation areas. The Grand Canyon lies but an -hour's drive from a major east-west transcontinental highway. Estes -Park,[1] in the Rockies, is only seventy miles from the city of Denver. -Glacier Park is easily served by the Great Northern Railroad on its -overland run, and Yellowstone enjoys direct service by three railroads. -But the Black Hills lie beyond the privileges of railroad stopovers, and -in order to visit them the tourist has no choice but to plan a vacation -trip for the sake of the Hills themselves and not as a side venture from -any of the traditional tours of the West. The Hills are worth the -effort. - -The Black Hills occupy a rectangular realm which is roughly one hundred -miles long, north to south, and fifty miles across its east-west axis. -The White River Badlands, which are customarily visited on any Black -Hills trip, form a depression in the high prairies some forty miles long -and fifteen miles across the widest part. This stark and empty waste is -to be found some seventy-five miles east of the Black Hills, or, more -precisely, east of Rapid on U.S. Highway 14-16. - -There are five major access routes to the land of Paha Sapa. From the -west, which is to say from Yellowstone Park, five hundred miles distant, -the Hills can be reached by U.S. Highways 14 and 16. These routes come -in together across the high plains of northern Wyoming, and separate a -few hours' drive from the South Dakota border, 14 veering to the north -and 16 continuing through the central section of the Hills. - -From the south, U.S. 85 comes up from Denver, four hundred miles -distant, crossing the Lincoln Highway at Cheyenne, and continuing along -the route of the old Cheyenne-Deadwood stage. - -From Omaha and points in the southeast, the Hills are best reached over -U.S. 20 across the top side of Nebraska. Although this route is not a -major east-west route for interstate tourists, it serves a busy -agricultural section and is generally in fine repair. - - [Illustration: The Black Hills; The Badlands] - -From the east U.S. 14 and 16, again, bring the tourist through Pierre, -on the Missouri River, past the Badlands, and into the Hills through -Rapid City. From Minneapolis the distance is just over six hundred -miles, while from Chicago it is very nearly a thousand. - -For those entering the region from the north, U.S. 12 from Miles City, -Montana, is in all probability the best route. - -The gateways to the Black Hills are the towns of Hot Springs in the -south, Rapid City on the eastern edge, Spearfish or Belle Fourche at the -north, and Custer in the west. All these towns offer entirely acceptable -accommodations for a touring family; in fact, no one need drive more -than twenty or thirty miles from any point in the area to find suitable -lodgings at a desired rate. - -Hot Springs, on U.S. 18-85A and State 87, is situated at an altitude of -3,443 feet and has a population of approximately five thousand. It is -the one sector of the Black Hills that does not owe its original -development to the gold rush of the seventies, but was sought out from -the earliest days for its natural thermal springs. - -The town is located in a large bowl of the southern hills known as the -Vale of Minnekahta, from the Sioux name for "warm waters." Situated as -it is on the rim of the Hills region, it was not included in the general -taboo that cloaked the rest of Paha Sapa to the north; and for nearly a -century before its discovery by the white man in 1875, it was a favored -health resort of the Indians. As a matter of fact, Battle Mountain, -which overlooks the town, takes its name from a legendary war between -the Sioux and the Cheyenne for the exclusive privileges of the hot -baths. - -Not long after the discovery of the springs a syndicate of investors who -had come into the Hills from Iowa bought the ranch claims that had been -taken out in the Minnekahta Canyon, and sought to develop the region as -a spa. This was in the late eighties when salubrious waters were in high -fashion as a cure for arthritis and other joint and muscular disorders -of various degrees of complexity. Colonel Fred T. Evans, who had made a -fortune operating a bull-team freight line from Fort Pierre to Rapid -City, built an elaborate resort, the Evans Hotel, which even today is -imposing in its last-century splendor; and with the arrival in 1890 and -1891 of two railroads, the Chicago and Northwestern and the Burlington, -wealthy cure-seekers from all over the United States made it their habit -to spend the summer months in this pleasant town. - - [Illustration: Highways leading into the Black Hills.] - -Healing waters have long since gone out of vogue as a form of -recreation, and although several clinics still treat a modest number of -visitors for one indisposition or another, the town of Hot Springs has -ceased to be a tourist center of any consequence. Also, the fact that -the Springs are located a considerable distance south of U.S. 16, the -main east-west route through the Hills, has contributed to the -increasing isolation which this town enjoys, drowsily seeing to the -wants of the occasional visitor who strays into Paha Sapa from the south -along U.S. 85. But do not mistake it, it is a pleasant town to stop in, -with excellent motor courts and a good selection of restaurants. - -The town of Custer, a scant fifteen miles from the Wyoming border on -U.S. 16, is little more today than a tourist stopover. It is almost two -thousand feet higher than Hot Springs, at an altitude of 5,301 feet, and -contains, according to the latest estimates, nearly two thousand -residents. - -As the tourist enters the town he will immediately be amazed by the wide -main street; but if he ponders for a moment the problems of turning a -freight wagon behind sixteen oxen, the reason will become clear. Custer, -the western gateway to the Hills, was, until the coming of the -railroads, a major way station on the busy Cheyenne-Deadwood stage and -freight route; and for fifteen years the great bull wagons teamed into -this busy center where, in most cases, the goods were unloaded and -trans-shipped by lighter wagons into the various mining centers -throughout the northern and central Hills. - -Custer, the oldest of the white man's settlements in Paha Sapa, was -founded in 1875 by gold-seekers who flocked into the territory following -the reports of yellow metal sent back by George Custer after his -exploratory campaign of 1874. In the first spring and summer of its -existence more than five thousand miners swarmed into the region to pan -gold. This invasion was a violation of the government's treaty with the -Sioux, and the military forced the argonauts to leave. - -By 1876 the Indian problem had come to a head with the defeat of General -Custer on the Little Big Horn in eastern Montana; and as one phase of -retaliation the federal government redrafted the Sioux treaty, allowing -American citizens to enter the Black Hills, until this time reserved for -the Indians. Although for some time the tribal leaders could not be -persuaded to sign the revised agreement, the restrictions on settlers -were removed, and back into the Hills rushed the prospectors--this time -to the new strikes in Deadwood Gulch, in the north. - -By the middle of 1877 Custer, where gold had originally been found, had -a population of a mere three hundred souls, all of them concerned -primarily with the operation of the stage stations and hostels. True, a -few grizzled placer miners still worked the streams near by, and do to -this day; but hard rock mining in Deadwood was the new order of affairs. - -The visitor to this section of the Hills today will find it pleasant to -stay the night in any one of a wide choice of tourist courts and other -reasonable billets, and he may see much of historical interest within a -few miles' drive of Custer. A settler's stockade, reconstructed to the -original model of 1874, is a remarkable site to visit, and the Jewel -Cave is best reached from this point. For sheer color and pageantry the -annual celebration of Gold Discovery Days, which is held at Custer late -in July--near the date of the discovery of gold, July 27--is an affair -not to be missed during a Black Hills vacation at that time of year. - -The town of Spearfish is the point of entrance to the region on U.S. 14, -or, coming in from the north, on U.S. 85. This tidy metropolis, called -the Queen City of the Black Hills, never knew the heady history that -marked the early days of Custer, of Deadwood, of Rapid City, or even of -fashionable Hot Springs. Lying outside the magnificent natural bowl of -mineral deposits, Spearfish was founded and exists today for the simple -purpose of supplying the inner Hills with food and produce. It has a -population of between three and four thousand people, most of whose -energies are devoted to agriculture and livestock. - -Spearfish has, however, carved for itself a fame and renown even larger, -in many quarters, than that enjoyed by the gold rush towns of gustier -memories. It is the home of the Black Hills Passion Play. - -This beautiful and stirring performance, which is given in a large -amphitheater on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings throughout the -summers, is a resurrection in an American atmosphere of the -centuries-old Passion of Luenen, in Germany. The man who plays the -Christus, an inherited responsibility through many generations, is Josef -Meier, who fled from Europe in 1932. For six years, with a reassembled -cast, he toured the United States, performing a much trimmed-down -version of the historic morality on college campuses, in civic -auditoriums, and at summer encampments. It was at such a performance at -the Black Hills Teachers College that the citizens of Spearfish were -inspired to offer the touring company a permanent home. Meier and his -group eagerly accepted the offer, and the town constructed an outdoor -theater seating eight thousand people. Now, each winter the Passion Play -continues its tour of the United States, but all during July and August -it remains in residence, acting its moving and majestic pageant to -constantly packed houses. - -The eastern gateway to the Hills is Rapid City, a metropolis of thirty -thousand people which lies on the level prairie just to the east of the -final ring of foothills. Founded, like Spearfish, not as a mining center -but to serve the near-by gold regions, Rapid City has developed a maze -of industrial and commercial enterprises. Shipping, of course, has been -a basic form of commerce from the earliest days, with the two most -heavily traveled trails into the Black Hills, that from Fort Pierre and -that from Sidney, Nebraska, on the Union Pacific, entering the gold area -at Rapid City. Lumbering, manufacture, banking, and livestock quickly -became prominent as the gold fever subsided and the more permanent -settlers began coming into the region to take up the rich cattle and -farming lands in western South Dakota. A final guarantee that Rapid City -will continue to flourish may be seen in the selection by the Air Force -of the high, level prairie land just ten miles to the east of the city -as the nation's major mid-continent bomber base. - -Rapid City is served by U.S. Highway 14-16, and South Dakota state -highways 40 and 79. Two railroads and a major airline assist in handling -the heavy summer tourist travel, and from Rapid City practically every -point of interest in the Black Hills can be reached by car within three -hours. - - - - - CHAPTER TWO - The Formation of the Black Hills - - -One of the most rewarding features of a visit to the Black Hills is the -opportunity for the average individual, who has no technical training, -to see with his own eyes a museum of the earth's ages and a living -sample of practically every one of the many aeons of the planet's -history. - -The Hills, which is to say the rock substances of the region, are older -by hundreds of millions of years than the stone out-juttings of the -Rocky Mountains. Layer after layer of slates and schists from the very -foundations of this globe lie visibly exposed as the end result of a -doming of the region, a vast blistering, as it were, which raised the -entire structure, layer upon layer, several thousand feet in the air. -Following this doming process, a vigorous program of erosion commenced. -Stratum by stratum the winds and rains cut across this huge blister in a -horizontal plane, eventually laying the core open at the height above -sea level at which we find the Black Hills today. From that core, -extending in every direction in the general form of a circle, the -various strata which once lay so smoothly one upon another have been -laid open as one might slice off the top of an orange. - - [Illustration: The Doming of the Black Hills - - Rock Strata being shifted into a dome at the time of the great - continental uplift. - - The forces of erosion--wind and water--have levelled the dome and - opened the seams to view.] - -In order to get an even clearer picture of how this amazing phenomenon -came about through the aeons, let us fold back the ages to the very -birth of this planet. - -For centuries men have attempted to determine the earth's exact age, but -except for the famed Archbishop James Ussher of Ireland, who gravely -calculated that the earth was formed at precisely nine o'clock on the -morning of the twelfth of October in the year 4004 B.C., no scientist -has been able to come closer than a few million years in the figures. -Through a number of trustworthy measurements, however--including, in -recent years, the examination of the deterioration of radioactive -elements in rocks--geologists have agreed that the oldest known -ingredients of the earth's crust have been in existence at least two -billion years, and, according to some very recent calculations, possibly -as long as three and a half billion. - -In what is known as the Archean period, the most ancient of which we -have any geological knowledge, a vast sea covered much of North America, -bounded by certain masses of land, the extent of which has never been -discovered. From this land mass remnants of mud and sand were broken -away by waves and deposited on the floor of the sea. Eventually, under -the pressure of its own weight, this material formed shales and -sandstones to an undetermined depth--many thousands of feet. Those -particular sandstones and shales underlie the entire Black Hills area -and extend in nearly every direction for a considerable distance, -suggesting perhaps that the area of the Hills was at one time the bottom -of this watery bowl. - -The Archean period came to an end some five hundred million years ago. -By then the seas had withdrawn, and the new land formations which had -lain under the early ocean merged with the vestiges of the first land -mass. But this metamorphosis, which can be described in such calm -fashion, was by no means a gentle affair. It took place largely as the -result of a shifting and rising of certain ocean bottom areas, among -which was the region where we now find the Black Hills. - -At the time of this uplift, and possibly contributing to it, there was a -tremendous disturbance in the lower regions of the earth which sent -great streams of molten matter up into the several-mile-thick layer of -shale, through which it poured toward the surface, breaking through in -monolithic forms and hardening into granite. The New Mexico writer, -Eugene Manlove Rhodes, describing a similar geologic phenomenon in the -valley of the Rio Grande, has called it "like sticking a knife through a -tambourine," and indeed it was. Harney Peak, in Custer State Park, is -just such a granite finger pointing up through the original shales -toward the sky. - -When this disturbance took place the granite juttings did not rise above -the surrounding landscape as they now do. In many cases they did not -even reach the surface of the shale beds, but ceased their flow and -hardened short of the crust of the earth, as it was then to be found. -When, however, the region was domed, many millions of years later, the -subsequent weathering of the huge blister did not attack these granite -formations with anywhere near the vigor with which the softer sandstones -and limestones were eroded. What actually occurred, then, was a peeling -away of the softer rocks, leaving the granite formations near their -original sizes, but at last above the ground level in the form of peaks, -needles, and spires. - -But we have gotten ahead of our story. Following the Algonkian period, -when the molten matter was injected into the layers of shale, there came -what is known as the Cambrian period. The Cambrian occupied the first -80,000,000 years of the Paleozoic era, which in itself covered the -entire period from 510,000,000 to 180,000,000 years ago. - -During the Cambrian period the land subsided again, perhaps because of -the weight of the uplifted sedimentary formations. During this -subsidence the waters once again covered vast portions of North America, -and additional muds and slimes were deposited on the bottom. It was at -this period that life first appeared on the earth, in the form of simple -marine organisms which have left fossil remains. These deposits made in -the Cambrian period can be seen in outcroppings all through the region, -although they are most notably found in the area about Deadwood. Because -of their structure they indicate to the geologist that the shoreline of -the ancient Cambrian sea was near at hand, and also that this covering -of water was by no means as extensive or as deep as the earlier Archean -sea. - -The deposits of sand and mud, which were eventually pressed into stone, -occasionally reach a depth of as much as five hundred feet, although -they were laid down extremely slowly, as eddying mud is laid at the -bottom of a pond. In the locality of Deadwood they contained a rich -infiltration of gold, and the entire conglomeration was thoroughly -intermixed with a vast outcropping of much older rock--this effect -undoubtedly having taken place later, during the great continental -uplift, when the final doming occurred. - - - THE AGES OF EARTH - - MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO (Pre-Cambrian Existence back to 3-1/2 - Billions of years) - - PALEOZOIC ERA - 510 - Cambrian Period--First fossils deposited. - Marine life. - 430> - Ordovician Period--Invertebrates increase - greatly. - 350> - Silurian Period--Coral reefs formed. First - evidence of land life. - 310> - Devonian Period--First forests. First - amphibians. - 250> - Mississippian, Pennsylvanian, and Permian - Periods.--Reptiles and insects appear. - Continental uplift at end of this period. - 180 - MESOZOIC ERA - Triassic Period--Small Dinosaurs. First - mammals. - 150> - Jurassic Period--Dinosaurs and marine - reptiles dominant. - 125> - Cretaceous Period--Dinosaurs reach zenith of - development then disappear. Small mammals. - Flowering plants and development of hardwood - forests. - 60 - CENOZOIC ERA & PERIOD - Paleocene Epoch--Archaic mammals. - 50> - Eocene Epoch--Modern mammals appear. - 35> - Oligocene Epoch--Great apes appear. - 25> - Miocene Epoch--Grazing types of mammals - appear. - 10> - Pliocene Epoch--Man appears. - 0 - -The next period of the earth's age--the Ordovician period, which -extended from 430,000,000 to 350,000,000 years ago--has left its mark -just as visibly upon the Black Hills. It was during this period that the -many species of invertebrate marine life reached a zenith of -development, and that a bed of sediment was laid down and later -compressed to a pinkish limestone. The fact that this Ordovician bed is -less than forty feet thick indicates that the land mass from which the -muds and sands were drawn was very low, and that the Cambrian sea was -relatively shallow, entertaining only minor erosive currents along its -shores. - -The next two ages, the Silurian and the Devonian, which brought our -earth down to a scant 250,000,000 years ago, did not see the deposit of -any silting in the Black Hills region. No doubt the waters which covered -the locality dried up gradually. The Mississippian period, however, was -a time of great depositional activity. A layer of limestone between five -and six hundred feet thick was set down over the entire section. In -later periods this limestone underwent much decay and water erosion, -which formed the amazing caverns for which the Black Hills are known. -Wind Cave, now the site of a National Park, Crystal Cave, and Jewel Cave -are the best-known tourist attractions among the many, although there -are a number of lesser ones, some even today only partially explored. - -The chemical activity which accomplished this erosion was caused by the -seeping of rain water down through later accumulations of sediment on -top of the layer of limestone. As it seeped through rotting vegetation -and timber the water collected carbonic acid gases which, when it -reached the level of the Mississippian limestone, eroded the structure -and ate out huge hollows in it. - -The thickness of the Mississippian deposit indicated that at this time -the earth had again sunk beneath the waters to a considerable depth. The -shallow sea which had not offered sediment to a greater depth than a few -feet was replaced by active currents which carried heavier sedimentary -materials from great distances, laying them down on the floor of the sea -in various strata to a depth of several hundred feet. Finally, after an -unknown number of millions of years, but perhaps during the Triassic -period, the land again rose above the level of the waters. A red shale -suggests a time of great aridity when the region must have been a near -desert, and certain discernible patterns in the shales suggest periods -of rapid evaporation and a consequent change in chemical activity. - -Finally the land subsided again, for the last time to date. At times -salt water covered the region, and at other times fresh water left its -chemical mark. At some levels in this last layer of sedimentary rocks an -abundance of fossils can be found, indicating deep water, and at others -ripple-marked rock indicates very shallow water. It remains a period of -great mystery. How long this final submersion continued we do not know; -but in all probability it lasted nearly a hundred million years, and -then was terminated by the vast upending of North America which created -the Rocky Mountains. This upheaval did not take place suddenly, as a -volcanic eruption or a series of earthquakes, but apparently commenced -about sixty million years ago and lasted, as a continuous series of -shiftings and slow upheavals, for about twenty million years. - -At the beginning of this mighty uplifting the region of the Black Hills -was covered by the various layers of sedimentary deposits to a depth of -nearly two miles. Slowly this rectangular area was lifted as a dome over -the surrounding prairies. We do not know how high above the level lands -this dome reached, but we do know that several thousand feet of later -deposits overcapped the granite upthrusts which were planted in the -fundamental shales. Those granite fingers, which have now been exposed -to view, stand from five hundred to four thousand feet above the plains, -and thus the original dome may be assumed to have extended from eight to -ten thousand feet above our present-day sea level. - -Almost as soon as this era of upheaval first started, as soon as the -first land of the Black Hills was elevated above the great sea, the -forces of erosion set to work. Wind and rain worked their terrifying -magic on the slowly rising terrain, carving away the softer rocks and -the loose dirt and leaving only the granite outcroppings. Down from the -sides of the great dome poured the waters of melting snows, gushing -springs, and torrential rainfalls, digging out rivers, canyons, and the -deep and narrow cuts which characterize this beautiful region. Slowly -the land continued to rise and the oceans to fall until at last an -equilibrium was reached, a static state of affairs which remained much -the same until our own period, when the base of the dome was at last -revealed, with the surrounding lands drifting away in every direction on -a gentle incline. - -From that day the structure of the Black Hills has changed but little. -The high winds off the Dakota plains and the annual spring run-off and -seasonal rains cut their minute etchings in the landscape; but Nature's -greatest effort in the Black Hills part of the world has, it seems, been -made. It must be remembered, though, that Nature has had other -responsibilities. At the time of the doming of the Black Hills the Alps -had not yet been formed, nor the Pyrenees, nor the Caucasus. And on the -site of the mountains we know today as the sky-piercing Himalayas, the -swampy waters still moldered. - - - - - CHAPTER THREE - The Hills Today - - -It is this writer's personal opinion that no other resort area in the -United States possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions as the -Black Hills. This profusion of happy endowments can be separated into -three categories, each of which deserves individual study and enjoyment. -Two of these, the region's folklore and its memories of the gold rush, -belong to the amazing history of the Hills. But of course the visible -landscape and the natural wonders of the area are the primary objects of -the tourist's visits, and it is proper that they be considered -immediately and in detail. - - - _Wind Cave_ - -The Wind Cave lies ten miles north of Hot Springs on U.S. 85A. The -cavern is the focal point of interest in its own National Park, which -takes in forty square miles. Nearly half of this park is enclosed with a -high fence, behind which one of the last great bison herds roams -contentedly. Protected antelope, elk, and deer also enjoy this game -preserve. - -The cavern was discovered, according to legend, by a cowboy who heard a -continued low whistling noise in the weeds and, investigating, found air -rushing from a ten-inch hole near the present entrance to the cave. And -indeed it is this very phenomenon that makes Wind Cave different from -other notable caverns, such as the one at Carlsbad. Even on the stillest -of days a steady current of air can be felt rushing in or out of the -cave's opening--into the earth if the barometer is rising, and out of -the ground if the pressure is falling. - -The National Park Service conducts tours of the cave, the complete -excursion lasting some two hours. Fortunately, although the visitor -descends to a great depth as he searches out the various chambers on the -route, the tour ends at an elevator which whisks him swiftly to the -surface near the starting point. - -The entire cavern is a little more than ten miles long, although there -are portions of it which have not even yet been explored so that their -size may be known with accuracy. It is not graced with the growths of -stalactites and stalagmites normally to be found in limestone -formations, but nature has compensated for that lack by fashioning a -peculiar box-work which looks for all the world as if the cavern had -been subjected to an interminable frosting process. These beautiful -fretwork deposits, which are not to be found in any other cave, are the -result of a strange chemical process that took place in the limestone -stratum where Wind Cave is located. Surface water seeping into the stone -became charged with carbon dioxide gas from the decaying organic matter -through which it passed. This gentle acid then dissolved the limestone -only to redeposit it in cracks and crevices around other limestone -fragments. The precipitated limestone was of a different chemical -composition and resisted later onslaughts by the eroding acids--which, -however, did eat away the fragments around which the precipitate had -formed, leaving the maze of hollow crystalline formations that can be -seen in the various chambers of the cavern. - -The National Park, being relatively small, is not equipped with -overnight facilities; but this does not matter, for the town of Hot -Springs is but twenty minutes' drive from the park, and the town of -Custer is only twenty miles away. There are, however, camping grounds in -the park, and the Park Service operates a lunchroom at the entrance to -the cave. - - - _Custer State Park_ - -Custer State Park is located almost in the center of the Black Hills. -Containing nearly one hundred and fifty thousand acres, it is one of the -largest state parks in America. It was originally set aside as a state -game refuge, and it was not until the advent of summer touring as a -national pastime that the state of South Dakota purchased additional -private lands which contained scenic wonders, incorporating all of them -into the one large area. - -Today the park is the center of all tourist activity in the region. A -number of excellent lodges, camp grounds, and tourist courts along every -road make it particularly easy for the tourist to stop at will for a day -or more to enjoy the various recreational facilities as his fancy -dictates. In every respect the park is effectively administered: food -and lodging prices are held to a reasonable figure, the cleanliness of -the buildings and grounds is regularly inspected, and the landscape is -protected from commercial exploitation. - -The center of the park's activities is the Game Lodge, a monstrous -Victorian hotel built in 1919 and operated under a private lease. Close -by the Game Lodge are cabins, stores, eating establishments, the park -zoo, a museum, and the offices of the state park officials. The Lodge, -those with a flair for nostalgia will recall, achieved international -renown in 1927 when President Coolidge made it the summer White House. -It lies on US. 16, thirty-two miles from Rapid City and seventeen miles -from the town of Custer. - -It behooves the writer to mention at this point that the museum -connected with the Game Lodge is by no means the drab and dusty sort of -collection of impedimenta associated with the vicinity that is so often -found in museums at scenic sites. Indeed, this fine attraction is an -assemblage of geological, paleontological, and historical items which -trace with rare discernment the whole history of the Hills through the -ages, and up to our own day. The visitor who fails to pass an hour in -this exciting spot will have missed the heart of the Hills entirely. - - - _Harney Peak_ - -Harney Peak stands like a sentinel in Custer Park. The highest point in -the Black Hills, it rises to an altitude of 7,242 feet, 4,000 feet above -the prairie floor outside the Hills. Higher by 900 feet than Mount -Washington in New Hampshire, it is the highest mountain east of the -Rockies. - -High as it is, Harney Peak is by no means the typical mountain which -tourists come to expect after a trip through Colorado, for example, or -western Wyoming. It is older by ages than the precipitous and craggy -Rockies, and the winds and waters have worked their slow erosion on it, -cutting away what high shelves and escarpments might originally have -existed and leaving it, except at the top, a gentle and easy mountain -that may be climbed over a trail which will scarcely tax the laziest -tourist. - -On the top of the peak will be found the core of granite that originally -broke through the Archean shales. This granite, subject to the -mechanical ravages of wind, rain, and frost, is rugged and coarse, a -steep dome covered with a thick lichen. From this eminence the entire -Black Hills area can be seen, rolling away in every direction--great -waves of pinnacle and mountain, gradually subsiding and disappearing in -the haze of distance which covers the prairies. Especially striking from -this spot is the view of Cathedral Park, with its hundreds of -needle-like spires and organ pipes, and, sheltered in a quiet recess, -that amazing phenomenon, Sylvan Lake. - - - _The Needles_ - -The Needles Highway, a fourteen-mile stretch of road, branches off U.S. -16 about five miles west of the Game Lodge. At the time of its -construction in 1920-21 it was regarded as an engineering marvel, -although later exploits of American highway builders, such as the road -to the top of fourteen-thousand-foot Mount Evans in Colorado, have since -far overshadowed this accomplishment. - -The road winds and curves in an interminable pattern, finding its way, -by trial and error it seems, among the great granite spires that give -the region its name. These "needles," through the last of which the -highway actually plunges in a tunnel, are the remains of a great granite -plateau which once covered that entire portion of the Black Hills. -Contrary to popular opinion, the rocks are not outthrusts, the result of -some ancient upheaval, but the last thin vestiges of this once-solid -plateau. The age-old process of erosion has carved them into the shapes -they now have; and the inquiring visitor can see the process still at -work, for upon close inspection this granite is found to be not the -impregnable stone it appears, but rock in a late stage of -disintegration. Rot is the word which actually describes this formation, -and in many spots whole chunks can be picked from the side of a spire by -hand. It was, as a matter of fact, this situation which made the -construction of the Needles Highway possible. Had the granite been -solid, the task of cutting the Needles and Iron Creek tunnels would have -been so expensive as to prohibit the entire undertaking. - - - _Sylvan Lake_ - -Not all of the scenery in the Black Hills was created by Nature. Sylvan -Lake, in many respects the most beautiful corner of the region, was made -entirely by hand. - -It was near the turn of the century when two hunters, Dr. Jennings of -Hot Springs and Joseph Spencer of Chicago, got the intriguing idea of -having an additional tourist attraction in the vicinity of Harney -Peak--a lake. - - [Illustration: Along the Needles Highway] - - [Illustration: Harney Peak older by ages than the Rockies] - -Some lakes are difficult to construct, while some are relatively easy. -Sylvan belongs in the latter category. The two imaginative gentlemen -merely bought a small tract of land between two great granite shields -and built a dam seventy-five feet high between the boulders. The waters -of Sunday Creek, which flowed to their dam, together with local springs, -at last contrived to fill the area back of the dam. Today this loveliest -of lakes basks peacefully high above the world at an elevation of 6,250 -feet, actually on top of a ridge, at the north terminal of the Needles -Highway. - -It is easy for any lover of water scenes to become enthusiastic as he -describes the colorations of his favorite lake, so I shall merely state -that Sylvan never looks the same in two consecutive moments. Not having -the symmetry of natural lakes or the tremendous depths of glacial pools, -this body of water plays the role of mirror to the fabulous rock shapes -which surround it; and indeed it is a source of never-ending delight to -watch the cloud and sun patterns as they wrestle with the shadows of the -rocks on its surface. - -For many years Sylvan Lake and its environs were operated privately. A -hotel catered to the tourists who bounced over the privately built road -in buggies and horse-drawn busses. In 1919 the property was purchased by -the state of South Dakota, and since that time it has been operated as a -public facility. When the original hotel burned, in the thirties, the -state built with funds procured from the federal government a -comfortable and modern hostelry, the most amazing feature of which is -the expansive dining room with picture windows looking out over the lake -to Harney Peak. - -The hotel is small, as resort hotels go, containing only fifty rooms, -and the tourist would do well to arrange for accommodations in advance -of his visit. There are, however, a number of cabins operated in -conjunction with the main building, and except at the height of the -season rooms can probably be found in the annexes. Along the lake shore -an excellent restaurant, independent of the hotel, serves the needs of -the traveler who has only a few hours to spend at this stop. - - - _Mount Rushmore_ - -From Sylvan Lake around back of the north side of Harney Peak it is a -drive of but a few miles to the second man-made wonder of the Hills--the -Mount Rushmore Memorial. - -Perhaps no one thing has done so much to make the Black Hills known -throughout the world as this incredible undertaking--the carving in the -natural granite face of a mountain of the faces of our four most revered -presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. -"Teddy" is included for his lasting service to the people of the United -States as the president who saw the Panama Canal project through -Congress and into being. The military and economic values of that -enterprise so deeply impressed the sculptor of this mammoth frieze that -he insisted upon elevating TR into the august company of the other three -great statesmen. - -The whole story of the memorial would fill several volumes, and indeed -has already done so. Briefly, the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, wished to -perpetuate a patriotic motif in stone figures so large that they would -attract visitors from every corner of the country and impress upon them -the glories of the democracy which the four presidents had done so much -to build and sustain. The sculptor's own words were: "I want, somewhere -in America, on or near the Rockies, the backbone of the continent, a few -feet of stone that carries the likenesses, the dates, and a word or two -of the great things we accomplished as a Nation, placed so high that it -won't pay to pull it down for lesser purposes." - -The actual construction work started in 1926, and the formal dedication -was made by President Coolidge in the summer of 1927. Between nine -hundred thousand and a million dollars went into the gigantic task, -including money for supplies, wages, and the sculptor's own personal -needs during the fifteen years he spent on the project. He died in 1941, -and the work was completed a few months later by his son. - -The immensity of the undertaking can be grasped when the dimensions are -noted. The face of each of the figures, for example, measures sixty feet -from chin to forehead. - -The rough carving was done by dynamite. Borglum, working from a -carefully constructed model, would mark on the sheer sides of the great -mountain the lines where he wanted the stone peeled away. Then a blast -would be set off in the hope that the rock displacement would -approximate the lines marked out, and from that point the work had to be -done by hand. At first, taking lessons from the miners working for him -who had many years of experience in blasting the hard granites of the -region, Borglum was able to reach only within a foot of the final figure -by dynamiting. As he became more proficient in the use of the explosives -he got to the point where his original blasts would shed the stone to a -matter of an inch or less from the final cut surface. The head of -Washington was finished in 1930, that of Jefferson in 1936, that of -Lincoln a year later, and that of Theodore Roosevelt, the final figure, -in 1941. - -There are no tourist facilities at the site of the Memorial. Like every -other place in the Black Hills, however, Rushmore can be reached in a -few minutes' drive from any one of a number of near-by points where a -tourist might be stopping. Borglum's studio, situated on a prominence a -few hundred yards from the carvings, gives the best view of the scene -and is open to the public. - - - _Crazy Horse_ - -It is not entirely accurate to refer to the Mount Rushmore Memorial as -_the_ other man-made wonder in the Hills. At the moment it is the only -such marvel outside of Sylvan Lake; but in twenty-five or thirty years -it will have to share that honor with the Crazy Horse Memorial, a statue -carved on top of Thunderhead Mountain, between Harney Peak and the town -of Custer. This gigantic carving, which will be an entire figure and not -a mere bas-relief, will be an equestrian statue of the great Sioux -chief, Crazy Horse, who led his nation during the desperate years -between 1866 and 1877. The chief will be mounted on a prancing steed, -his hair blowing, as if in the wind, behind him. - -The Indians themselves can take the credit for this fabulous idea. Chief -Henry Standing Bear, a resident of the Pine Ridge reservation, is said -to have had his inspiration after a visit to Mount Rushmore. Why not, he -wondered, erect some monument to an outstanding red man, so that when -the last of his people have been assimilated into the white man's -society, visitors to what was once the heart of the Indian country can -reflect for a moment upon the greatness of that lost race? - -Standing Bear wrote his idea to Korczak Ziolkowski, an energetic and -imaginative sculptor, and suggested that Chief Crazy Horse would make a -fitting symbol of the Indians' struggle for existence. This was in 1940. - -The sculptor took to the idea, but because of the events of World War II -he was unable to commence work on the project until 1947. Since then he -has been setting off two blasts of dynamite a day, carving away the rock -at the top of Thunderhead. But even yet the first faint outlines of the -eventual statue are only barely discernible. Ziolkowski estimates that -the entire task will consume a quarter of a century, if not more, and -will cost not less than five million dollars. If this figure sounds high -compared with the less than a million spent on Rushmore, perhaps the -measurements will provide an explanation: the horse upon which the chief -will be seated will be four hundred feet from nose to tail, and the -entire work, from pedestal to top, will be more than five hundred feet -in height. - - - _Mount Coolidge_ - -In this same general region lies another prominent Black Hills landmark -which every tourist should take time to visit--Mount Coolidge. With a -height of 6,400 feet, this peak is by no means an outstanding mountain, -being ranked by a good half dozen higher within the Hills. But from its -summit, which can be reached by an auto road leading off U.S. 85A a few -miles to the north of Wind Cave Park, an amazing vista can be seen. To -the east, on a clear day, the White River Badlands loom as a great -valley sixty miles away. To the south one can see across the high -rolling hills all the way into Nebraska, and to the west landmarks in -Wyoming are clearly visible. On the summit a stone lookout tower has -been built for the convenience of visitors. - - - _Jewel Cave and Ice Cave_ - -Since the Black Hills are underbedded so widely by limestone, it is not -surprising to find in them not one but several memorable caverns. There -are, as a matter of fact, a dozen or more well-known large caves; but -outside of Wind Cave, only Jewel Cave has been opened and fully prepared -for public visit. The expense of exploring, lighting, and carving trails -in the others has kept them off the market, so to speak, for in a region -so packed with scenic delights two great caverns are about as much as -the traffic will bear. - -Jewel Cave lies some fourteen miles west of Custer on U.S. 16, almost at -the Wyoming-South Dakota border. It is a small cave, with only two tours -marked out in it, one a mile long and the other two miles. It is noted -for its wealth of colorful crystalline deposits, totally unlike the -delicate filigree work to be found in Wind Cave. - -The cave was discovered by two prospectors, who proceeded to develop -their property for commercial gain. In 1934 they sold the cave and such -of its environs as they owned to the Newcastle, Wyoming, Lions Club and -the Custer Chamber of Commerce. These two organizations sought to -popularize it further as a lure to tourists who would have to travel -through their towns to reach the scene. In 1938 the federal government -took it over and made a national monument of it. - -Not far from Jewel Cave is the famous Ice Cave. This cavern gets its -name from the current of cold air which blows from its mouth, cold and -clammy on even the hottest of summer days. The Ice Cave is not -officially open to the public, and has not even been totally explored. -Forest rangers and Park Service employees have charted some of it and -have searched out certain channels in the strange formation, and from -their meager reports it would seem that if Ice Cave is ever fully opened -it will vie with New Mexico's Carlsbad in beauty and grandeur. - -For the curious tourist the only possibility at the moment is to take -the lovely off-route trip to the cave's entrance, a natural arch twenty -feet high and seventy-five feet wide. - -In addition to Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, and Ice Cave, there are a number -of other caverns of varying interest and underground beauty which have -been opened and exploited by private individuals. In many cases these -are but indifferently arranged for public inspection, but can be tracked -down by the visitor by means of the garish signs which too often manage -to clutter the otherwise unblemished scenery. - - - _Just Scenery_ - -The foregoing are only a very few of the scenic wonders of the Black -Hills. Detailed information on the various other scenic features is -easily to be had at any of the hotels and tourist courts in the Hills, -and brochures covering practically every landmark are available gratis, -thanks to the enthusiasm of the local chambers of commerce, the Black -Hills and Badlands Association, and the state of South Dakota. The area -is crisscrossed with good roads, and no matter which route one takes to -his eventual destination, every mile will be marked by breath-taking -views and natural wonders. - -The region, except at the summits of the peaks, lies at an average -altitude of some five thousand feet. Cool nights are thus guaranteed, -regardless of the temperatures by day. The highest mean temperature -ranges, during the six months between April and November, from 60 to 85 -degrees. Light outing clothes are suggested for day wear, and light -wraps are always in order after dark. - -The rainfall during this same six-month period, averaged over fifty -years, amounts to three inches per month; what small showers do occur -take place most usually in an hour or so of the early afternoon, and -refresh rather than hinder the tourist. - -The hillsides are covered with a mass of shrub and tree growth, and an -earnest searcher can find specimens of no less than fifty-two varieties. -Yellow pine, spruce, cedar, ash, aspen, alder, dogwood, and cottonwood -are most in evidence. - -The bird lover will find the Black Hills nothing less than a vast -aviary, more than two hundred species having been seen in the region. -Animal life is almost as widely represented, although the casual visitor -is not likely to come upon a native mountain lion or gray wolf. The -assistance of forest rangers and Park Service employees is available in -locating the habitats of some of the rarer varieties of wildlife. - -As might be expected, the fisherman will find plenty of opportunity to -ply his pole in this region. There are nearly 150 miles of stream and -lake frontage in the Black Hills, and the waters are liberally stocked -by the state hatcheries. In addition to trout, the angler will encounter -pike, pickerel, bluegills, black bass, and perch. - -Finally, there are the annual celebrations and fairs, which are always -of interest to the outsider, for they help dramatize the particular -region where they are held and its historical background. July and -August are the months for these celebrations, and notices of coming -events will be found posted prominently' along the tourist routes. Four -such outstanding occasions are Black Hills Range Days at Rapid City, -Gold Discovery Days at Custer, the Belle Fourche Round-Up, and the Days -of '76 at Deadwood. The Deadwood celebration, it might be added, -celebrates not the Revolutionary War, but the discovery of gold in -Deadwood Gulch in 1876. - - - - - CHAPTER FOUR - History I: Indians and Gold - - -Gold, they say, is where you find it. In California in 1848--in Montana -in 1852--in Colorado in 1858--in Arizona, in Nevada: when they finally -found it in the Black Hills in 1874, the Gold Rush West had nearly all -been settled and the bonanza days were forever gone, for all the likely -places had been searched. - -The question posed is an obvious one. With sourdoughs plowing and -digging up the bed of every stream and rivulet in the West from 1849 on, -how did it come about that the Black Hills, lying a considerable -distance closer to home than California and the other gold rush regions, -had kept their glittering secret until so late? - -The truth of the matter is that the mysterious and brooding dark -mountain-land was a good place to hide secrets. Gold had been discovered -there, as a matter of fact, as early as 1834, which was just seven years -after the country's first gold strike--the 1827 Georgia rush. But -unfortunately those first lucky gold-seekers--there were six of -them--did not live to enjoy their taste of the Black Hills' incredible -wealth. Fifty-three years later, not far from the town of Spearfish, one -Louis Thoen found a piece of limestone upon which was crudely but -legibly engraved this melancholy message: - - came to these hills in 1833, seven of us DeLacompt Ezra Kind G. W. - Wood T Brown R Kent WM King Indian Crow All ded but me Ezra Kind - Killed by Indians beyond the high hill got our gold june 1834 - -On the back of this somber relic were the blunt words: "Got all gold we -could carry." - -Yes, there was gold in plenty, but Paha Sapa of the Hills was a jealous -spirit who guarded the forbidden portals with a great vengeance. It is -interesting, though, to speculate upon how the course of western history -might have veered had Ezra Kind made his way out of the bleak region to -report his discovery. Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and most of the Missouri -Valley would have been skipped over in a rush to the prairie West, left -to be filled in and settled later. The upriver ports of the Missouri, -rather than St. Louis, Kansas City, St. Joseph, and Omaha, would have -been the outposts, and there would have been no Santa Fe Trail, no -Platte River--Oregon Trail, but rather a heavily traveled National Road -winding out from St. Paul and from Chicago. Rapid City would have been a -metropolis the size of Denver, and when eventually the Union Pacific was -built it would have been three hundred miles north of its present route. -And the Indians? There would have been a far different story in that -regard, perhaps a much bloodier and more tragic tale. - -But Ezra Kind was killed and his secret slept, and thus we are as we are -today. Actually it was the Indians who kept the Hills so long -forbidden--Indians of the Teton Sioux, the same tribe who put Ezra's -party to the tomahawk. - -Before the California gold rush life on the Great Plains had proceeded -pretty much on an even keel. The mighty Teton Sioux, all seven tribes of -them--the Oglalas, the Unkpapas, the San Arcs, the Brules, the -Minniconjous, the Blackfeet, and the Two Kettle--roamed the prairies at -will, from the Missouri Valley to the Rocky Mountains. Of course they -had their misadventures with the fur companies, but just as often their -dealings with the Mountain Men were profitable, for the Indians, when in -the mood, scouted, trapped, and hunted, all for the white man's pay. - -With the great exodus to California, though, the situation took on a -different hue. Immigrants by the hundreds and the thousands poured up -the rolling valley of the Platte, and it was not many months before the -haphazard Indian attacks took on a new strength and design. Long burned -the council fires in the dark nights, and all up and down the great -plains the war raged. To protect the wagon trains the government sent -its shrewdest and most experienced Indian agent, Thomas Fitzpatrick, a -veteran fur trader since 1823, the famed "Broken Hand" of western -legend. Summoning the tribes to Fort Laramie in 1851, Fitzpatrick -managed to subdue them, but only by promising that he would confine the -settlers to specific ranges and would keep them steadfastly out of the -Dakotas and the Black Hills. - -In the meanwhile the eastern tribes, the Santee Sioux, were beginning to -feel the pressure of settlement in the rich Minnesota valleys. In 1862 -they revolted, and the terrible battle of Wood Lake was fought, with the -score of massacred settlers reaching into the high hundreds. The leaders -of this outrage were, of course, apprehended and punished, but whole -tribes fled into the western plains, into the land of the Black Hills, -where they eventually joined forces with their Teton cousins. - - [Illustration: The Four Great Faces: Mount Rushmore Memorial] - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake mirrors great granite shields at an - altitude of 6,250 feet] - -By 1865 matters had come to a head again, because although the great -Sioux, numbering between thirty and forty thousand, had kept to -themselves, the white man had broken his side of the bargain and was -cutting a new route into the forbidden country. This passage was the -famed Bozeman Trail, which drove north from Fort Laramie, on the Oregon -Trail, directly through the Sioux country to serve the new gold fields -of Montana. - -To protect the wagon trains on the Bozeman the army called upon General -Grenville Dodge, who was later to build the Union Pacific. Dodge, -Commandant of the Department of the Missouri, was an old hand at Indian -warfare. He rushed into Wyoming a full force, four columns of men, who -swiftly brought the angered tribes to heel. - -The immediate result of this engagement was the signing of a halfhearted -and inconclusive treaty at Fort Sully, near Pierre, in October of 1865. -The treaty attempted to settle some old differences of a fundamental -nature, but inasmuch as neither the Oglala nor the Brule were -represented it failed of its mission. - -A year later a further powwow was staged at Fort Laramie to pursue the -matter of keeping the Bozeman Trail open through the forbidden Sioux -country. Perhaps matters might have proceeded equably had not General -Carrington arrived in the midst of the delicate negotiations to announce -that he had enough soldiers to protect the trail, treaty or no treaty. - -Carrington's blustery announcement, backed up by a show of seven hundred -courageous but misguided cavalrymen, brought the talks to an abrupt end -and sent the two most important Sioux Chieftains, Red Cloud and Crazy -Horse, scurrying for the council fire and the war paths. In all the -great plains there were not to be found braver or more single-minded -Indian strategists than these two. For the better part of two years -roving bands of tribesmen under Red Cloud and his stalwart colleague -amply proved that Carrington could not have kept the trail safely open -if he had had seventy times his seven hundred men. It was, as a matter -of fact, the only time in our long history that Uncle Sam's troops ever -took a downright beating. - -At last even Red Cloud could see that the white man, for all his -braggadocio and poor planning, would eventually win the turn; and -although his savage troops had tasted victory in almost every -engagement, he consented in 1868 to negotiate once more. Presumably both -sides were wiser by then, for a pact, sometimes called the -Harney-Sanborne Treaty, was dutifully signed and accepted in April of -that year. The United States agreed to close the Bozeman Trail and to -abandon the forts. The Black Hills were utterly forbidden to the white -man, and except for an agreement to let the Northern Pacific rails cross -the upper prairies unmolested, the high plains from the Missouri to the -Big Horn were returned by federal order to their historic isolation. - -After that fiasco the situation remained comparatively quiet for a few -years. Eastern Dakota was being settled bit by bit, and the rails were -pushing forward, ever so slowly but ever so surely. The Missouri River -was the frontier line, dividing the settled Dakotas from the Sioux -lands; and Fort Lincoln, on the river (not far from the site of today's -Bismarck), was the outpost that overlooked the troubled territory. - -From month to month trappers, gold-seekers, and would-be homesteaders -slipped inside the Sioux curtain from the Cheyenne-Laramie country on -the south, from the rich Niobrara country in northwest Nebraska, or from -eastern Dakota itself. There was not much that the army could do about -these treaty violators except worry, for the borders to be patrolled -were vast and the forbidden lands inviting. - -But the army did worry, endlessly. There were increasingly frequent -rumors of the existence of gold in the Hills, and year after year -General Sheridan, commanding the Departments of Dakota, the Platte, and -the Missouri, urged stronger fortification of the Sioux boundaries to -prevent trouble. Trouble was particularly to be expected because several -bands of Sioux, specifically those under Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, -had not agreed to government supervision in 1868 and seemed thirsting -for a fight. - -Thus it was to make a military survey that Sheridan sent an expedition -through the heart of the Hills in 1874. His force of more than a -thousand soldiers moved under the command of George Armstrong Custer; -and, strange impedimenta for an army, the luggage in the lorries -included mining picks and pans, the belongings of H. N. Ross and William -T. McKay, who were officially attached to the command. Presumably Custer -was looking for something more than mere military sites. - -The Indian fighters of an earlier day--Kit Carson, the Bents, or Sibley, -for instance--would have stood gaping in the stockade as Custer's force -moved leisurely onto the empty Dakota prairies. This was no ragtag army -in buckskin, but an orderly procession of one hundred and ten wagons, -six ambulances, a dozen caissons, and two heavy field pieces. Each wagon -and ambulance was drawn by a sprightly hand of six sleek mules. - -In addition, three hundred head of beef cattle browsed slowly along the -way in mooing testimony that this expedition would live off the very -fattest of the land. The personnel included, in addition to Custer's -highly trained troops, a hundred Indian scouts, a platoon of expert -white guides and trappers, and, mounted upon docile mares, a special -contingent of botanists, geologists, geographers, and assorted expert -college professors. Also, as has been reported, there were two miners. - -To the north of the Hills, crossing the Belle Fourche River first, the -army made its gentle way, and then down the west slope of the forbidding -mountains, seeking for an easy pass into the dark interior. Tall in the -saddle rode golden-haired George Custer, for he was commanding the -strongest army ever put into Indian country. It is little wonder that he -slept quietly at night, or that he wrote in his diary: "It is a strange -sight to look back at the advancing column of cavalry and behold the men -with beautiful bouquets in their hands while their horses were decorated -with wreathes of flowers fit to crown a Queen of the May." - -In that holiday mood the army moved down inside the great bowl of -mountains on its sightseeing tour, and presently it camped about three -miles west of the present town of Custer. All this while the miners had -not been inactive, but had plied their pans here and there as the -company passed across various streams. Until this bivouac, though, they -had had no luck, and, as a matter of fact, had actually been expecting -none. They had come along to quell the rumor of gold as much as to bear -it out. Preferably to quell it, if General Sheridan were to have his -way. - -On August 2 of that year, 1874, McKay turned out to try his implements -once again on French Creek. An early account gives this dramatic version -of the famed discovery: "When the earth [in the pan] was gone, he held -up his pan in the evening sun and found the rim lined with nearly a -hundred little particles of gold. These he carried to General Custer, -whose head was almost turned at the sight." - -Through the magic of his discipline Custer managed to keep his army from -beating their ration tins into placer pans and "claiming" on the spot. -Getting under way almost immediately, the men continued their march -eastward through the heart of the Hills, and on August 30 emerged from -the great park and headed back to Fort Lincoln. - -In the meanwhile a messenger had been sent ahead with the news of gold. -Scout Charley Reynolds, who was to die with his commander just two years -later, was detached from the base camp and sent scurrying down to Fort -Laramie, to the nearest telegraph station. Within an hour of his arrival -at the post, two hundred miles to the south and west of the Black Hills, -the tremendous news was burning over the wires to General Sheridan in -St. Louis. - -It was also burning some operator's ear along the way, for the great -secret, which was to be handed only to the high command in Washington, -made its way on that very day into the editorial rooms of the old -_Chicago Inter-Ocean_--where, naturally, it was treated with great -respect and splashed across the headlines with all the vigor of an -announcement of the Second Coming. - -There was actually a genuine religious fervor in the proclamation, for -the locust had been upon the land for many months in the eastern cities, -and the bread lines had been growing. It had threatened to be a cold -winter until ... until this last bonanza burst upon the nation. - -Men had all but forgotten what a gold rush was like. It had been so long -since the last great hegira to the Pikes Peak region that a new -generation had come into manhood, a generation that knew California only -as a state, Colorado as a prosperous territory, and the Union Pacific as -the proper way to cross the empty West. There were none of the desperate -winter marches up the Continental Divide this time, no lost wagon trains -on the salt deserts, no Indian massacres. This rush left Chicago on the -"cars," as noisy and as highhearted as fans following a football club. - -And there was another great difference between the foray to the Black -Hills and the earlier gold rushes. In this case the argonauts did not -get to the diggings. The troops saw to that. Deploring the untimely leak -of official intelligence concerning the presence of the yellow metal in -the Dakota outcropping, the War Department issued stern warnings to all -settlers to keep away. The existence of the treaty with the Indians was -proclaimed in every paper--and, though less resoundingly, the danger -from the Indians was also mentioned. - -Nonetheless, before the end of that crucial year a sizable group of -foolhardy settlers broke through the blockade and made themselves at -home. Erecting a strong stockade at the scene of the first strike, they -soon carved themselves a town in the wilderness, gratefully naming it -Custer, and even that early providing for the wide main street where ox -teams could make a U-turn. Throughout the first winter these illegal -townspeople managed somehow to survive the cold, the lack of rations, -and the danger of Indian attack; but late in the spring General Crook's -cavalry arrived to "escort" them out of the Hills and back to the -railroad at Cheyenne. - -Many of the citizens of that first town took their eviction with fair -grace, turning to other means of employment than gold mining--and there -were plenty--in Cheyenne, Denver, and the other near-by and rapidly -growing settlements. One group, though, the Gordon Party, apparently -enjoyed leadership of a tougher sort. They refused to be intimidated by -the troops. Setting up camp on the very boundary line between the -forbidden country and the permitted Platte Valley, they just waited. -Actually, an increasingly large number of immigrants waited on the -border only until nightfall, and then set out into the unknown. Some -were apprehended by the cavalry and returned, some were killed by the -sullen tribesmen, but hundreds of them managed to find their way to the -vicinity of French Creek. More than that, they managed to stay. - -It might be thought that gold mining, with all its necessary -paraphernalia, supplies, and general confusion, could not very well be -carried on in an atmosphere suggesting the more modern practice of -moonshining; but the truth of the matter was that there were just too -many settlers and too few soldiers. Time and again the troops would -swoop down on some busy little gathering and hustle the miners out to -the nearest courts, where they would hastily be acquitted and released -to go back to their workings. Under the very fist of forbiddance a score -of towns had sprung up, among them the reborn Custer City. - -Finally the government gave up all hope of keeping the eager immigrants -out of this last frontier. By the fall of 1875 the border towns of -Sidney, Nebraska, Yankton, South Dakota, and Cheyenne and Laramie, -Wyoming, were bursting at the seams with gold-hunters who demanded -"their rights as citizens." Bowing to the inevitable, the government -sent a treaty commission to wait upon the Sioux. This body of earnest -men offered the Indians six million dollars for the right of entry into -the Hills. Although the treaty Sioux agreed to sell, the price they -asked wavered between twenty and one hundred million. Crazy Horse, who -did not attend the council, refused to sell at any price and solemnly -warned the white man to stay out. - -Frustrated, the treaty commissioners returned to Washington in despair, -while the embittered Sioux disappeared into the west river country to -nurse their grievances. Upon this turn of affairs, the government washed -its hands of the matter and opened the lands to settlement. - -That was in June of 1875. Within a matter of weeks after the bars had -been let down, the Hills were populated by uncounted thousands of men, -women, and children. Many simply came out of the woods to claim honestly -the diggings they had been working dishonestly; but many, many more came -from the East by every train, now that the country was legitimately -open. - -It was a motley assembly that took part in this Black Hills rush. In -earlier bonanzas the type had been pretty well formalized, for the -difficulty of the overland journey to California, for example, or across -to the Pikes Peak region, had kept all but the roughest--and -toughest--at home. But on this occasion the West was by no means as wild -as it had been in those earlier days. Distances had been conquered; -transportation methods, even beyond the railroads, were much safer and -more adequate; and the Black Hills, although cold in the middle of -winter, offered none of the climatic ferocities of the Rocky Mountains. -Thus, to partake of this feast of yellow dust hopeful clerks brushed -shoulders with desperadoes, professional men of every accomplishment -traded rumors with crease-faced sourdoughs from the dead land south of -the Mogollon, and oldsters who had thought they might never again hold a -pan in their hands dug alongside mere boys from whom the apron strings -had been relaxed. - -In the meantime, even as the good citizens of Custer, Gayville, Central -City, Golden Gate, Anchor City, and a host of other thriving towns, most -of which have long been given over to the ghosts, were bustling about -their exciting business, matters in the west were taking a slow but -inexorable turn for the worse. - -The army had let the situation ride for the summer and fall, keeping a -careful watch over the enemy Sioux, but feeling fairly assured that they -would attempt no large-scale raid of the Hills, populated now by at -least fifty thousand people. Summer and fall were not normally times to -worry over, in any case, for the buffalo were still on the range and -forage was plentiful for the tribes. It was in the depths of winter that -the tale would be told--either the Indians would come docilely to the -reservations for their rations, or they would steer clear of the white -man's soldiers and supply their own necessities by raiding the isolated -ranch and stage line outposts. - -By mid-December the reservations were still empty, and General Terry -sent out a call to Sitting Bull, ordering him to bring his people in to -the military posts. January 1, 1876, was given as the deadline. The -haughty Sioux chief paid scant attention to Terry's order, replying -simply that the general knew where to find him if he wanted to come for -him. Sitting Bull knew that the army would attempt no large maneuvers -with the weather as it was--one of the bitterest winters in recorded -history. - -Then he simply waited. - -But General Terry was no man to take a short answer. Immediately he -ordered three expeditions to prepare themselves for the field, to move -as soon as weather should permit, and to take the Indians early in the -spring when their ponies would still be thin and unrecovered from the -winter's rigors. General Crook was to march north from Fort Fetterman, -on the North Platte River; General John Gibbon was to move south and -east from Fort Ellis, in Montana; and General Custer was to come west -from Fort Lincoln. - -Unfortunately not only the Indians but the weather as well turned -against General Terry, for with the thermometer standing most of the -time at between twenty and forty below and the prairie covered with the -glaze of incessant blizzards, neither Custer nor Gibbon was able to move -out of camp. - -Crook, though, was able to best the winter when March rolled in and to -locate one of the most dangerous of the rebel bands, Crazy Horse's -renegade Oglalas, deep in the Powder River Valley. This was on March 17, -1876. Had Crook's men not made certain grave errors of tactics after a -brilliant surprise, the battle might have solved the problem. As it -turned out, the Indians galloped a few circles around the troops and -made merrily off into the forest. Again the weather closed in. - -Three months later, when the summer weather made campaigning possible, -Crook's troops were able to take to the saddle again, and again Crazy -Horse was located, this time encamped on the Tongue River, between -Powder River and Rosebud Creek. Again the battle was inconclusive, for -the troops seemed unable to press the advantage of their surprise -discovery of the Indians. - -Eight days later, on June 17, the bewildered but indomitable Crook came -a third time upon Crazy Horse, now on Rosebud Creek. On this occasion -the troops were able to euchre the Indians into a pitched battle--and -were thereupon so thoroughly trounced that Crook's command was -essentially immobilized where the bleeding remnant lay at the battle's -close. - -By the time the harassed cavalrymen had bound up their wounds and -remounted, Crazy Horse had disappeared over the hills and down into the -Big Horn Basin, where his cohorts joined a host of other bloodthirsty -braves in a great Sioux encampment. Black Moon was there, Inkpaduta, -Gall, and a major roster of other courageous Indian warriors. Counseling -them and performing their good medicine was none other than Sitting Bull -himself, who, it should be said, was not a warrior but a medicine man -and tribal diplomat. - -Historians have never been able to agree upon the number of braves -assembled under this battle flag, but all concur in the belief that the -camp could have contained no less than three thousand warriors--in all -probability the greatest single Indian army ever to be put into the -field against the troops. - -By this time other help was coming for Crook, as he lay in the south -nursing his ill fortune. General Custer, having scouted out Crazy -Horse's retreat, had been ordered to stop him from the north and to -pinch the Indians between the prongs of his force and Crook's. - -But it was Custer rather than Crazy Horse or Sitting Bull who met the -pincers. Coming upon the headquarters village of the enemy, Custer -divided his force of 600 men into four groups: Benteen with 140 odd, -Reno with about 125, McDougall with the ammunition and supplies and -perhaps 140 men, and Custer himself retaining the balance. - -While McDougall stayed to the rear, Benteen was sent off on a fruitless -errand into a badly broken terrain to the southwest. Custer and Reno in -the meantime proceeded side by side toward the village. Coming over the -last remaining hill before the Indian camp, Custer dispatched Reno ahead -to make a preliminary contact with the enemy, while he rode off in a -somewhat parallel direction, apparently bent on encircling the savages. - -Meanwhile Reno did indeed encounter the Indians, and when he realized -how tragically outnumbered he was, he immediately dismounted his men to -fight a delaying action on foot, thereby saving both men and horses. He -obviously adopted this tactic on the theory that he would be supported -from the rear by Custer. When he saw that Custer had decided to make a -diversionary attack on the right flank of the enemy, Reno and his men -gave up the fight and concentrated on scrambling out of the trap and -making their way to the hill which overlooked the village. - -From that vantage point Custer and his force could be seen across the -Little Big Horn at a distance of perhaps a thousand yards. Apparently -thinking that Reno was still successfully engaging the Indians, Custer -rode his men down into a ravine where he apparently encountered the full -horde of savages and where he met his death. The details of that last -action have never been made clear, but most experts think that he -divided his pitifully weak force into two segments at the time of the -final charge which took him full into the heart of the great enemy body. -Thus it was that Custer was caught in the pliers of the attack, in which -hopeless position his entire force was wiped out to the last man, -officer, and guide. Custer's Last Stand, as it has been poetically -called, was in every respect the greatest defeat of white forces in the -history of Indian warfare. - -Custer's death marked the end of the Black Hills controversy. Although -the Indians had been completely victorious, they had spent so heavily of -their warriors and their supplies that they were never again able to -mount a major attack against the whites. Swiftly the troops hunted them -down, village by village, and within a year the great Sioux War had -ground to a stop. - -A second treaty commission had been appointed late in 1876, and by -February the transfer of the Black Hills from the Sioux Nation to the -United States had been completed--not for a cash consideration, but only -for the government's promise to support the Indians until such time as -they might learn, under agency supervision, to provide for themselves. - -By that time the question of entry was no more than rhetorical. The -Black Hills were as thickly populated as any region of equal size in the -West. The stage routes in from Cheyenne, from Sidney, Nebraska, and from -the Dakota railheads were well traveled. The last frontier had been -broken. - -And besides--there was Deadwood and the Homestake. - -The original rush had centered in historic Custer, the scene of the -first entrance into the country on French Creek, and the terminus of the -Cheyenne-Black Hills stage line. By Christmas of 1875 the population of -that wilderness settlement was in excess of ten thousand souls, each of -them active and bustling about his business. - -On the other hand, there was not a great deal of business to bustle -after. French Creek was a good clue to gold, but that was about all. -Before long most of the good citizens, having found the little brook -something of a snare and a delusion, were casting about for some way to -make their livings from each other. Storekeeping, laundering, ranching, -hostlering, all were honorable occupations which soon found a plenitude -of practitioners. - -In that fashion the winter was passed. Ice capped the waters and the -snow hung from the trees, and aside from hoping for spring there was -little the thronging populace could do. Thus a fruitful field was in -fallow for the gossip which started blossoming in March and April. The -tales, whispered--as such stories always are--without definition or -authority, had it that somewhere in the northern Hills there was another -stream that had nuggets the size of ... it is unimportant how large the -nuggets, for a glitter of dust the size of an eye-speck would have been -a windfall in Custer. Day by day the rumor grew, and as is always the -case with such gossip, the precise location of this "Deadtree Gulch" was -never made entirely plain. - -The reason for this obfuscation was simple: a rich strike had actually -been made far in the north part of the Hills, and the claimants were -doing their level best to keep it a secret. The fact that Custer held -its population as long as it did was a testament to the sagacity and -close-lippedness of John Pearson and Sam Blodgett, who had stumbled, -late the previous winter, into one of the world's richest gold basins. - -The secret held for only a few months. Trappers, prospectors, and mere -travelers were passing through the spruce trails of the Hills in such -profusion that sooner or later the activity up Deadwood Gulch, as it -came to be called, was bound to be observed. Pearson had found his dream -cache in December of 1875, and he managed to contain the secret only -until March of 1876. Like a forest fire the news of the strike to the -north spread, and by May the southern Hills were deserted. Custer, for -several years the metropolis of the entire region, lost all except -thirty of its citizens in a matter of weeks, and other settlements in -the south and west simply dried up and disappeared. - -That Deadwood Gulch, so named for the stand of burned-over timber which -graced its declivitous sides, contained a major deposit was not to be -denied. The rich sands which Pearson had spaded up testified to that, -and later comers were by no means disappointed. But the names and -locations of individual early discoveries have long been lost to all -save the most assiduous researchers, for there was one claim which -outshone all the rest. That digging was the mighty Homestake, which, -from its first days, has produced gold and assorted other precious ores -in such abundance and with such dependability that it has been accepted -the world over as one of earth's great mines, rivaled in munificence -only by the Portland-Independence of Cripple Creek in Colorado and the -fabulous workings of the Witwatersrand of South Africa. - -As with all rich diggings, an appropriate legend attends the account of -the original discovery of the Homestake. It seems there were two -brothers, Fred and Moses Manuel, who had long been addicted to that most -vicious of all unbreakable habits--gold prospecting. Moses had wound his -weary way through the West for a full quarter of a century, plodding the -dusty California gold gulches in '50, up the steep heights of Virginia -City in '60, into Old Mexico, and--although he was a full generation too -early--into Alaska. But now, in 1875, he was through with it all and was -going home. - -Collecting his brother Fred, who was fruitlessly panning the sands of -the Last Chance Gulch in the high border country of Montana, Moses -started east, passing of course through the Black Hills, to scout down -this one last ray of rumor--that a new strike was in the making. Setting -out their camp in Bobtail Gulch, a mere pistol shot from certain placer -claims in Deadwood Gulch, they went to work in midwinter, hoping to -find, the legend has it, just enough blossom rock to give them a stake -for their homeward journey. - -They seem to have hit it with a vengeance, not mere placer gold in the -stream bed but a genuine lode, for on April 9, 1876, they patented the -claim known as the Homestake. Discarding for the moment all idea of -going on home with whatever meager wealth this "last" try should bring -them, the Manuel brothers immediately consolidated their position by -going into partnership with another prospector and taking shares in the -Golden Terra, an adjoining piece of real estate, the Old Abe, and the -Golden Star. The immediate returns, by the ton, are not today known, but -they must have been substantial, for the lucky brothers built an -arrastra--a crude millstone affair for grinding ore--and managed to -pocket more than five thousand dollars in their first year of operation. - -In the natural run of events the Homestake and the adjoining parcels -which the Manuel brothers were operating would probably have worked well -enough for a year or so, and would then have suffered the fate of -thousands of other diggings throughout the gold-rush West--the surface -ores would have played out, and because of the high cost of following -the lodes deeper into the earth than a few dozen feet, the mines would -have been abandoned. But in this case a San Francisco syndicate came -into the picture, providing the necessary capital funds for the -searching out of whatever ultimate wealth the Homestake might have. - -This syndicate of Pacific Coast businessmen included James Ben Ali -Haggin, a partner in the highly solvent Wells Fargo express company, and -Senator George Hearst, the father of the publisher, William Randolph -Hearst. These vigorous men sent a mining engineer into the Hills in 1877 -to canvass the location for possible investments; and in the course of a -detailed examination of whatever properties seemed to be paying well, -this emissary from Market Street came upon the brothers Manuel. A -superficial examination of the Homestake and the Golden Terra sufficed -this engineer, and he optioned them both, the first for seventy thousand -dollars and the second for half that sum. Returning immediately to -California, he delivered to his employers samples of this richest gold -mine in North America, and without delay Senator Hearst went to South -Dakota to see for himself. - -What he saw impressed him most favorably, for upon his return to -California he owned both the Terra and the Homestake, as well as several -other claims on the same hill, a total of ten acres of mining property. -That small figure is significant in the light of the fact that the -Homestake Mining Company today owns more than six thousand acres of -mining claims. - -With the incorporation of the mining company in San Francisco, the -aboriginal methods employed by the Manuel brothers were discarded, and -the latest in mine machinery was laboriously shipped by train to Sidney, -Nebraska, and then by ox team the two hundred miles to the town of Lead -(pronounced "Leed"), the precise location of the Homestake, two miles -from Deadwood City. The first installation was an eighty-stamp mill, -which began its work in July of 1878. Within five years six additional -mills were in operation, holding a total of 580 giant stampers. - -The mine now handles four thousand tons of ore per day and has, in its -sighted reserve, twenty million tons yet to work. The two main shafts -reach into the earth to a depth of more than a mile, with branching -tunnels piercing the mountain at hundred-foot levels; and there are more -than a hundred and fifty miles of secondary tunnels, served by more than -eighty miles of mine railway. - -The richness of the Homestake ore has averaged fourteen dollars per ton -for many years now. This may not sound like any considerable amount of -wealth--but the most active gold operation in Colorado, the Fairplay -dredge, is working gravel which pays an average of nine cents per ton. - -Finally, the records of the company show that it has mined 70,000,000 -tons of ore, yielding a total of 18,000,000 ounces of gold, which has -brought a gross price, at various standards, of $450,000,000. - -With the opening of the Homestake, the conquest of the Black Hills was -effectively completed, and the region entered into a period of rapid -development and expansion. Although the great mine at Lead was run -solely as a business enterprise, devoid of glamour and excitement, the -town of Deadwood, two miles away, enjoyed a decade of the lustiest -history ever to be known by a bonanza town. During its years of activity -and arrogance Deadwood contributed to our national folklore several -great figures, among them Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill -Hickok, and Preacher Smith. - - - - - CHAPTER FIVE - History II: Deadwood Days - - - Sam left where he was working - one pretty morn in May, - a-heading for the Black Hills - with his cattle and his pay. - Sold out in Custer City - and then got on a spree, - A harder set of cowboys - you seldom ever see. - --"Legend of Sam Bass" - -It has become the literary custom to recall our bonanza frontier less as -an economic phenomenon than as a backdrop for bloodshed, mayhem, and -assorted turns of vigor and violence. Early California, for example, is -today known less as the scene of the accomplishments of James Fair, -Charles Crocker, and Leland Stanford than as the arena for the armed -forays of Joaquin Murietta, Black Bart, Dick Fellows, and various other -gunmen. Since this is the accepted practice, it is entirely appropriate -to introduce the gold-rush days of the Black Hills with a brief account -of the banditry and thuggery which accompanied the early growth of that -last frontier. - -The quotation at the head of this chapter is one verse of an old folk -ballad, "The Legend of Sam Bass," the not particularly inspiring saga of -the life and death of an Indiana-born horse thief and road agent. -Actually, Bass had little to do with the history of the Hills, and as -anybody knows who has ever whistled or sung his song, the bulk of the -chronicle concerns his struggle against the Texas Rangers. - -On the other hand, Sam Bass will long live in Black Hills history, for -regardless of his other accomplishments he went to his glory bearing the -credit for having originated the fine art of stage robbery in that -Dakota wilderness. The Black Hills, like every other gold region, -enjoyed but scant holiday from the pestiferous road agents. During 1875 -and 1876, when the region was filling up, it seemed that there was -plenty to occupy the imagination of every individual who was able to -make the tortuous trip from the railroad. But by 1877 the area had -calmed down to such an extent that idle hands could occasionally be -counted in the dram shops, and the time was ripe for the devil to get in -his work. - -From the point of view of geography the Hills presented ideal conditions -for armed assault. The two major stage lines leading into the region -were the Cheyenne-Black Hills Line, running through two hundred miles of -desolate emptyland, and the Sidney Short Route, less long by some thirty -miles, but passing through equally lonely country. In addition, one -freight and stage line came in from the east, from Fort Pierre, and -another from the north, following the general heading of Custer's 1874 -expedition. The gold, though, most often traveled the fastest route, out -to the Union Pacific at Cheyenne or Sidney. - -During the first twenty months or so of the Black Hills gold rush, armed -guards were not normally counted among the personnel of the stage -coaches. As a matter of fact, in most instances it was to be questioned -whether or not any gold rode the stages, for the going was generally -thin in the diggings, and the average operator accumulated his bullion -for several months before amassing a shipment large enough to be worth -the trouble and worry. For all the wealth of the Homestake, the Hills by -no means repeated California's early history, when every stage worth -tying a horse to carried at least some treasure. And yet, in the -springtime most of the miners cleaned up their winter's take, it was -commonly understood, and ... well, Sam Bass must have thought, every -good thing must have a beginning. - -In March, 1877, Bass organized a gang of cutthroats in Deadwood, and the -brief period when one could ride the coaches in comparative safety came -to an end. It was not much of a gang that the legendary bandit gathered -around him, the five other men being mostly cowardly and quite -worthless, either as adventurers or as strategists. Bass himself was -little more than a "punk," as he would be called today, and, as a matter -of fact, did not earn his immortality until much later, in Texas, where -he was shot down in a barber chair by a Ranger. - -The gang, if they might so be called, foregathered on the snowy night of -March 25 in Deadwood and, after consuming sufficient whiskey to enable -them to stand the cold, made their way down the south road to a point a -few miles from town where they might intercept the incoming stage from -Cheyenne. What genius of diabolical planning led them to attack an -inbound conveyance, which could be carrying little more than ordinary -mail, rather than the "down" stage, which might possibly be loaded with -bullion, has never been figured out, but at any rate they camped -themselves in the snow and waited. - -At last the stage hove into sight, and Bass, the trusty leader, -cautioned his hoodlums not to shoot, but merely to stop the coach and -demand the mail pouch. Presumably the sentiments of the period held that -robbery without gunfire was quite condonable, and an entirely different -affair from burglary accompanied by shooting. It is also quite possible -that Bass was only minding his own safety, for the night had already -been marked by one misfortune--one of his men had managed to shoot -himself in the foot while putting on his deadly hardware. - -As might be expected, however, Bass's well-laid plans went very much -agley. In the excitement of calling "Halt!" one of the bandits proved a -bit too eager-fingered, and even as the stage driver was reining his -team to a stop, a shotgun blared out, emptying its charge at close range -into the driver's chest. - - [Illustration: Calamity Jane, during her carnival days] - - [Illustration: Wild Bill Hickok, from an early portrait] - - [Illustration: Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage carrying bullion guarded - by shotgun messengers] - - [Illustration: Deadwood Gulch in 1881] - - [Illustration: Modern Deadwood--seventy years later] - -With the shot the horses bolted, and shortly thereafter they pounded -into Deadwood, guided by a hatless passenger who had managed to secure -the ribbons as they dangled. Within a matter of minutes a posse had been -formed and riders were making their way into the woods. Inasmuch as Bass -and his companions had been acting suspiciously during the afternoon and -evening, the finger of accusation pointed altogether correctly in their -direction, and before the moon was down Sam Bass was well on his way to -Texas, escaping Deadwood's justice only to go to his lathered doom. - -This tragic foray against law and order set the stage, so to speak, and -before long the spruce trails of the Black Hills, once so still and -harmless, could be passed over safely only in the company of "shotgun -messengers," as the armed attendants were called. It did not take the -stage companies long to come to this way of operating, for Wells Fargo, -which contracted for the express business, had had a quarter-century of -rugged experience. Bringing their brave talents swiftly to bear on the -situation, the Wells Fargo men steel-plated the coaches to be used for -bullion shipments, and brought into the Hills the famed treasure chests -which had figured so largely in the history of the coming of law and -order to California--metal-bound cases too heavy to be transported -quickly from the scene of crime, and too sturdy to be opened except -after arduous work with chisels and crowbars. The chests had been -developed with the idea that a posse could be gathered at the spot where -a stage had been held up before the gold could be removed from the chest -or the chest itself taken far away. - -A more important safety factor than the chests was the reputation of the -shotgun messengers. The express companies went to great lengths to -engage only the most fearless and law-abiding men they could find for -this dangerous task, and time and time again thousands upon thousands of -dollars in bullion rode across the lonely trails with no more than one -man, his shotgun, and his reputation for bravery guarding it. - -Wyatt Earp, perhaps the most noted of these messengers, entered his long -tour of Wells Fargo duty through that firm's Deadwood office. Earp, as -any lover of western legend will tell, earned his vigorous reputation as -marshal in the bloody Kansas cattle towns of Dodge City and Abilene. -After the excitement of these Gomorrahs had worn off, he made his way to -Deadwood in 1876--not as a gold-seeker, but apparently merely in search -of honest and not too dangerous employment. At any rate, his brief stay -in the Hills was given to the profession of coal and wood dispensing -rather than to law enforcement. Either the weather or the lethargy of -the place suited him poorly, for within the year he was casting about -for some means of making his way back to his own plains country. - -Taking advantage of the public clamor against road agents after the Sam -Bass affair, he offered his services to the express agent and was hired -for the single trip out for fifty dollars cash and free passage. The -agent was by no means doling out any charity in this exchange, for he -knew the value of Earp's reputation and looked upon the fifty dollars as -a cheap form of insurance. He advertised in the local newspaper: "The -Spring cleanup will leave for Cheyenne on the regular stage at 7 AM next -Monday. Wyatt Earp of Dodge will ride shotgun." - -Bullion shippers were quick to take advantage of this extra protection, -and it was recorded that no less than two hundred thousand dollars in -bullion was weighed in for that special trip. It would be most dramatic -to recount that Earp's one trip was marked by attempted mass raids, -burning coaches, and wounded drivers, but the truth of the matter is -that the journey was made on time and in good order. Only one shot was -fired, and that by Marshal Earp, who took offense at the suspicious -actions of a rider whose course seemed to parallel the stage route for -an unaccountable distance. Without stopping the stage or otherwise -alarming the passengers Earp dropped the offending horseman a few miles -out of Deadwood, and the rest of the trip was made without incident. - -Despite the vigor with which the treasure coaches were protected, armed -robbery continued to take place sporadically all during the final decade -before the rails pushed through from the East. By and large these -forays, while bloody, were unsuccessful, and not a single desperado was -able to rise to any sort of fame during that period. On the other hand, -there was one robbery which must go down in history for the strange way -in which the loot was recovered. - -This particular villainy, remembered as the Canyon Springs robbery, took -place on September 28, 1878. The locale of the outrage was not far out -of Deadwood on the rough way through Beaver Creek and Jenney Stockade -into Wyoming and thence to Cheyenne. The coach, on this fateful -occasion, was rumored to be carrying nearly one hundred thousand dollars -in ingots from the Homestake, as well as from other works; and although -shipments of such size were not altogether rare, they were sufficiently -out of the ordinary to suggest the services of additional shotgun -messengers. It may well have been the mere fact of the scheduling of -additional guards that called the attention of the bandits to this -particular manifest. - -The holdup took place in midafternoon, as the driver was stopping the -coach to water the horses. In the gunplay three men were killed, and the -bandits escaped with the loot from the treasure chest, which they -apparently managed to chisel open. Ten miles away one of the guards came -upon a party of horsemen, who returned to the scene of the carnage; but -upon their arrival they found the coach despoiled of its gold. - -In many such cases the bandits would have been recognized as local or -near-local citizens; but in this instance all of the desperadoes -appeared to be strangers to the Hills, and consequently the law officers -had very little except guesswork to guide them in their pursuit. -Guesswork coupled with just plain snooping soon uncovered a trail, -however, for one of the stage agents turned up a ranch owner who gave -the information that a small group of men had, on the very evening of -the holdup, bought a light spring wagon from him. Such a transaction was -unusual enough to indicate that the purchasers were by no means -individuals of legitimate calling, and in all probability were the -actual bandits. Setting out on this trail, the agent managed to trace -them and their wagon all the way to Cheyenne, where the group had -apparently turned to the east. - -By that time persons who had seen them in passing had recognized them, -and their names were broadcast to the marshals and sheriffs of all the -eastern regions of the plains. Day after day the stage agent followed -their trail east, across the Missouri, across the border of Nebraska, -and on to the pleasant town of Atlantic, in Iowa. By that time the wagon -had been discarded and the gang had broken up, and the agent was -following only one spoor--the track of a young man who was always seen -with a strange, heavy pack on his back. - -In the town of Atlantic the trail came to an abrupt end, and indeed the -mystery might never have been solved had it not been for a strange -display in the street window of a local bank. Pausing to see what it -might be that was engaging the attention of a crowd at the window, the -agent was astounded to behold part of the very loot he was pursuing--two -bullion bricks stamped with serial numbers which identified them beyond -a doubt as part of the Canyon Springs treasure. - -Upon questioning, the banker proudly asserted that his son had only the -day before returned from a successful adventure in the Black Hills, and -had, as a matter of fact, found a gold mine, which he had sold for the -very bricks making up the exhibit. - -Gently the agent disabused the banker of this sad misapprehension, and, -enlisting the aid of the local Sheriff, had the prodigal son arrested. - -The unfortunate conclusion to this tale of detective expertness is that -although the gold was eventually returned to the Homestake, the young -bandit escaped from the train which was carrying him back to Cheyenne, -and was never thereafter apprehended. As for the other four robbers and -the rest of the treasure, no further trace of either was ever -discovered. - -Although banditry and skulduggery played a very great part in the tales -of most of the other bonanza gold fields, the Black Hills story was for -the most part happily without extraordinary violence. Much more -conspicuous in the history of the Hills than the desperate adventures of -bandits are the exploits of the folk heroes who rode the Deadwood legend -into immortality. Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, Deadwood Dick, -Preacher Smith, all of these amazing personalities achieved a lasting -fame during the early days of this later frontier, not for any deeds of -derring-do in the Sam Bass fashion, but for the old American custom of -living and dying in a high and wide manner. - -In all probability Deadwood Dick has carried the saga of the Hills -farther and to a greater audience, both in this country and abroad, than -any of the others, and for that reason, as well as for the strange -circumstance that he never existed, it is perhaps well to tell his story -first. - -Dick, who never had a last name, was nothing more nor less than the -happy creation of an overworked literary side-liner eking out a living -in the late seventies. Having exhausted the possible plot complexities -of such heroes as Seth Jones and Duke Darrall, Messrs. Beadle and Adams, -proprietors of that stupendous literary zoo, The Pocket Library -(published weekly at 98 William Street, New York, price five cents), -urged their hack, Edward L. Wheeler, to crank out a new character. This -Shakespeare of the sensational, having recently heard of the brave -doings in Deadwood, of the Black Hills, promptly created a latter-day -Leatherstocking, Deadwood Dick. - -Dick's success was instantaneous, for there was a sense of truth in -these stories which had theretofore been missing. Dispatches in every -post brought the news of Deadwood as it was happening, and thus the -weekly appearance of another Deadwood story was able to hang itself -firmly on the coattails of reality. In one episode Dick courts Calamity -Jane, who actually existed at the time, and finally marries her. In -another, Our Hero is a frontier detective, fighting bravely on the side -of law and order. In still another he has turned to robbery, and at one -point is actually strung by his neck from a cottonwood gallows. - -After exhausting the many plot possibilities of the Black Hills, Dick, -who had become as real to his readers as George Washington, began to -work both backward and forward in time and space. In one set of -adventures he is shown to be an active Indian fighter; in another he -turns up with Calamity Jane in the town of Leadville, Colorado, which -came into its glory not long after the strike in Deadwood. - -At last the many loose ends of the story so entangled author Wheeler -that he gave up Deadwood Dick as a lost cause and out of nowhere fetched -him a son, Deadwood Dick, Jr., who marched on to the turn of the century -and down into our own time. Indeed, his noble features can still -occasionally be found staring gravely up from a pile of old and dusty -magazines in attic corners. - -With such a heritage it is little wonder that as the town of Deadwood -grew away from its infancy, and as its modern Chamber of Commerce turned -to summer pageants as a source of tourist interest, Deadwood Dick should -be revived and paraded. Deadwood's summer festivals, the gay "Days of -'76," are built around a town-wide re-creation of the gold rush, with -the natives chin-whiskered, booted, and costumed within an inch of their -lives. During this gusty week otherwise sober and retiring citizens turn -themselves out as stage coach drivers, Indians, and pony express riders, -and the nights are filled with such a bubbling halloo that the tourists, -who come in ever larger droves, are able to go home and report that they -have honestly spent time in a frontier town. - -To heighten the effect, the impresarios of this gay divertissement many -years ago decided to raise Deadwood Dick from Beadle's pages and put him -on the street like all the other self-respecting Calamity Janes and Wild -Bills. Locating an oldster who looked not unlike the artist's original -concept, they dressed him in an assortment of western oddities and gave -him time off from his duties as a stable hand while the festival was in -session. For several years this simple pretense was carried on, and no -sleep whatsoever was lost over the fact that a mild fraud was being -perpetrated on the visiting Iowans. - -In 1927, though, when South Dakota was negotiating with Calvin Coolidge -to get him to spend his summer in the Hills, the stable hand, whose name -happened to be Dick Clarke, was sent to Washington to extend a personal -welcome to the President. Patently a publicity stunt, it fooled nobody -but old Dick himself. The rigors of the trip and the succession of -tongue-in-cheek honors heaped upon him somehow tilted the old man's -mind, and from that day until his death a decade later he fully believed -that he was the original Deadwood Dick. Frowning down any suggestions -that he doff his beaded finery and return to the care of the oat bins, -he betook himself far from the gentle safety of the Deadwood that he -knew and that knew him, and took to touring the backwoods with -fifth-rate medicine shows and Wild West pageants. Somewhere along the -line he got up a small pamphlet which he sold to the gawking audiences -who thought they were seeing a genuine frontiersman. In this amazing -tract he spelled out such of the facts of Wheeler's stories as were -coherent and in logical time sequence. The rest, including a date and -place of birth, he soberly filled in for himself. - -And that was Deadwood Dick. When he finally died, back in Deadwood in -the early forties, much of the town had come to believe as he did that -there had been a Deadwood Dick, just as there had been a Calamity Jane, -and that this gaffer had been the very person. His cortege was solemnly -followed, and to this day flowers are sprinkled on his grave by confused -but loyal residents of the Hills. - - -Wild Bill Hickok, on the other hand, actually lived, and actually died -exactly as the legend goes, with aces and eights in his hand. It was -this unfortunate occurrence, as a matter of fact, that gave to that -particular poker hand its gruesome name, Dead Man's Hand. - -Somewhat in the manner of Deadwood Dick, Wild Bill achieved a large part -of his fame through the earnest efforts of Beadle & Adams. That is to -say, much of his renown came after his untimely demise, and much of it -was deliberately generated to satisfy the great western-yearnings of the -avid book-buying public. In addition to the publishers' efforts on -Bill's behalf, great impetus was given to his posthumous repute by -Calamity Jane. Nevertheless, in all probability Hickok was actually the -fearless and sterling character his legendeers have depicted, and had he -not been brutally done to death by feckless Jack McCall he would -doubtless have earned even greater fame through his own efforts in later -years. - -James Hickok was born into a farming family in Illinois in the year -1837, and passed a quiet and respectable boyhood in the ordinary -pursuits of such an existence. In his nineteenth year he, like so many -other young men of that day, felt the urgent call of the Far West. He -hired himself out forthwith as a teamster in a wagon train to the -Pacific Coast. - -Returning at the end of this one visit to the golden shores, he managed -to land in the Platte Valley of the eastern Rockies in the very year -when gold was being discovered in that region. The following two years -he spent in odd jobs around Denver and on the high plains to the east of -that new city. During all this time, however, it seemed as if his heart -were hungering for the lower country. He let his drifting carry him -slowly back into Kansas where, at the beginning of the Civil War, he -managed a station for Hinckley's Overland Express Company, which was -then staging from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Denver and into Central City. - -All these adventures gave ample opportunity for any young man of spleen -to entangle himself a dozen times over in killings, brawls, and assorted -rough businesses, but through this entire period James Hickok gave -evidence of being nothing but a stalwart and well-intentioned -individual. - -The harmlessness of his pursuits, though, came to an explosive end after -one year in this genial work, when he indulged in pistolry with a -certain McCanles gang. One version of the Wild Bill legend states that -the "gang" were cutthroats, and that Hickok was only defending his -company's property. Another version, equally trustworthy, has it that -the McCanleses were Confederate sympathizers, attempting to raise a -cavalry unit in the region and thus offending Hickok with his Unionist -leanings. Whatever the reason, the outcome was bloody. No one today -knows for certain how many men were killed, for eyewitness accounts have -included reports ranging all the way from one to six, all of them -presumably slain by Hickok. - -The doughty station manager, his helper, and another stage company -employee were speedily brought to trial for the affair, and just as -speedily acquitted of any crime. Shortly after that Hickok resigned his -express company affiliation and joined the Union army, fighting the war -out as a trusted though undistinguished scout. - -After his discharge in 1865, he seems to have forsaken forever his once -peaceful way of life, and thereafter blood was more than occasionally to -be found upon his hands. His first postwar killing took place in -Springfield, Missouri, in a duel with a gambler; and later that same -year he was reported to have mortally wounded another card player in -Julesburg, Colorado Territory. In the next year another report, -unofficial like all the rest, had him killing three more men in -Missouri, and in 1867--this _was_ official--he went to the booming cow -town of Hays City, Kansas, where he was shortly offered the post of -marshal. - -That his reputation, whether truthful or legendary, was growing there -can be no question. By 1867 he was accounted to be one of the best -gunmen of his time and place, quite possibly for the simple reason that -he had survived so many fights. For all the shadowy overtones of his -story, he was also reputed to be a devotee of righteousness and order, -although this facet of his character may or may not actually have -existed. He was well known to be a gambler, and his victims were all -(except the McCanleses) supposed to be cheaters at cards. Whether his -vivacity with Mr. Colt's revolver was intended to rid the earth of -dishonest men or merely to avenge a lost hand is beside the point, for -his acceptance of the position of marshal of Hays City indicates that -for a time, at least, his inclinations lay in the direction of law and -order. - -From Hays City he went to a similar post in Abilene, where he bore the -star until 1872. During all this time he was forced to kill but a bare -minimum of unworthy citizens, his ever growing repute as a dangerous man -with a gun apparently frightening would-be desperadoes out of his orbit. -Three notches were all that he placed upon his weapon during his service -in those two hell cities of the prairies--definitely a world's record in -reverse. - - [Illustration: One of the Black Hills' many streams] - - [Illustration: The Badlands: Desolate, empty, and seared] - -Apparently the inactivity came to bore him, for he soon gave up police -work to return to the army for two years as a scout. This harsh calling -also failed to satisfy whatever inner wants were making themselves felt, -and in 1874 he resigned to join a traveling show with Buffalo Bill. - -In 1875, however, he was to be found no longer behind the chemical -lights, but idling his time away in Cheyenne. During this restless -interlude he married a circus rider named Agnes Lake. Shortly after the -ceremony, which took place in 1876, he followed the trail to Deadwood, -arriving in April and setting up camp with another ex-army scout. The -motives which drew him to that thriving boom town were, in all -probability, those which drew the thousands of others--mere curiosity -and the hope that something might turn up. Indeed, during the four -months of his Deadwood hiatus he did very little but play poker in the -famed saloon known as Number Ten. That he was as accomplished a gambler -as he was a gunman was doubted by no one, and through his ability with -the pasteboards he apparently kept himself in such funds as he needed. -He did not attempt to look for gold, nor did he seek any official post -in the town. He merely played the long hours away at cards. - -One might expect such a man as Wild Bill Hickok to meet his nemesis in -open battle with a murderous cutthroat seeking to pay off an old score. -Western legend is filled with such fitting come-uppances. But in this -rare case our hero was killed in a peaceful moment by a total stranger -and for reasons which nobody was ever thereafter able to discern. - -On the fateful day of August 2, 1876, he entered Number Ten shortly -after the lunch hour to take up his everlasting hand of cards. Normally, -being a prudent man, he insisted on a seat with its back to a wall, from -which vantage point he could keep his eye cocked for trouble; but on -this day, for some reason, he arrived just too late to take his -customary position and had to accept a chair with its back to the door. -The game proceeded amiably enough for a while, and there was nothing in -the afternoon air to suggest violence of any sort. At last a normally -inoffensive deadbeat, one Jack McCall, turned from the bar where he had -been enjoying a quiet drink and, passing the gaming table on his way to -the door, suddenly and without a word pulled his revolver from his vest -and put a shot through Wild Bill's skull. - -The effect was instantaneous. When the news spread that Wild Bill had -been killed, all work stopped in the city and men streamed in from every -corner, expecting at the very least to find a major battle in progress. -When finally the crowds were quieted down and it was learned that the -killing was nothing more than a mere murder, the populace speedily -hunted up the terrified McCall, whom they found huddled in a near-by -stable, and arranged a formal trial. The facts that Deadwood was at that -time still out of bounds to American citizens and therefore under no -legitimate civil jurisdiction and that the judge, jury, and prosecuting -attorney were elected on the spot by a show of hands, having therefore -no official standing, did not dampen the ardor of the crowd. A trial was -a trial, and its results would presumably be fair and honest. - -As a matter of fact, Jack McCall must have been the most surprised -individual of all at the ultimate fairness of the legal machinery which -had been set up in his honor. With the acceptance of his fumbling plea -that Hickok had, at a place unnamed and at a time unnamed, killed his -brother, McCall was acquitted and turned free, and Wild Bill was -sorrowfully buried by the admiring populace. - -As soon as he was freed, McCall hurried back to Cheyenne to escape the -reach of any of Hickok's friends. Unfortunately the story of the killing -followed him there, and under the mistaken impression that he had -undergone a legitimate trial and was therefore no longer subject to -additional jeopardy, McCall took no pains to deny the murder. This was a -most foolish tactic on his part, for he was speedily rearrested and -shipped to Yankton, the capital of South Dakota Territory, where he was -held for a session of the proper court. Inasmuch as he had admitted -before witnesses not only that he had killed Wild Bill, but also that -his earlier plea had been fabricated from whole cloth, he had a very -slender defense indeed, and was quickly found guilty and banged. - -To the very end no clue could be found to any sort of sound reason for -his having fired the fatal shot. It was quite definitely proved that he -had never had any dealings with his victim and had never been in any way -offended by him, and that he no more than knew vaguely who he was. It -was apparently a completely aimless killing, the unhappy inspiration of -the moment. - -On the other hand, Justice seems forever determined to get to the bottom -of the matter, for _The Trial of Jack McCall_ has become an institution -of the Black Hills, played, like _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, all the -summers long in a popular tavern. Where audiences elsewhere hiss their -Legrees and other purely fictional villains, the proud residents of -Deadwood have their very own and very real scoundrel for the target of -their malisons--the miserable McCall. Tourists are cordially invited to -join in the fun and thereby to spread ever farther the legend of Wild -Bill Hickok. - -On June 21, 1951, the legend was further enhanced and improved upon by -the presentation to the city of Deadwood of a brand new statue of Hickok -carved out of a massive chunk of native granite by the ebullient -sculptor, Ziolkowski. An all-day celebration attended the unveiling of -this statue upon its pedestal at the foot of Mt. Moriah, and the zenith -of the day's gaudy reverence was the reading of an "epic" poem to the -hushed populace of the town over a loud-speaker system from the top of -the mount. The statue is plain to be seen about a block from the Adams -Memorial Museum, and copies of the epic can no doubt be had by -soliciting the Deadwood Chamber of Commerce. - - -Of a somewhat different character from Wild Bill, but, it is good to -report, no less revered in the Hills, was Preacher Smith. - -Frontier towns have been notorious for their hallowing of persons, both -male and female, who were either expertly good or expertly bad. This -strange compounding of affections would suggest that the vice or -godliness in itself was unimportant, but that the rough and crude -citizens who populated our earlier settlements held a genuine admiration -and regard for anyone of any calling who demonstrated authority and -accomplishment. - -And thus it was with the Reverend Henry W. Smith. A man of exceptionally -little luck in life, he gave up his dwindling congregations in the -States and journeyed into the frontier in 1875, partly because of a zeal -in his heart to bring the Word into the lawless and godless gold camps, -but also, it must be conjectured, to find some form of weekday -employment which would enable him to care for his wife and two -daughters. The wolf had been howling at many doors during those years, -and parsonages which carried even a bare subsistence stipend were few -and far between. - -Smith went first to Custer, where he stayed but a short while, finding -little in the way of work and less in the way of souls to save, since -the rush to Deadwood was then in full force. Hiring onto a merchandise -train as a cook's helper, he made his way to that newer city, arriving -early in May of 1876. In a town of such activity it was not difficult to -locate work, and shortly his hide began to fill out and his purse to -thicken. That purse, it was discovered after his death, was to be used -for the purpose of bringing his family out to join him. - -Working diligently and, of course, soberly at his menial tasks from -Monday through Saturday, and bravely setting up his pulpit on the main -street on Sundays, Preacher Smith soon won the respect and even the -genial admiration of the roisterous townspeople. At first his -congregations contained more wandering dogs than people, but week after -week, as he determinedly kept after his work, an increasingly large -crowd gathered of a Sunday morning to listen to his sermons. - -Thus the entire town was shocked when he was brutally killed by Indians -while walking to a near-by settlement to preach a sermon. Indians were -bad enough at best, but killing a harmless and unarmed preacher was an -act of violence which shook the consciences of the whole citizen body. -It was on those consciences that the guilt began to press--the guilt of -the knowledge that they had driven him to his death by their slowness to -accept him in their own community and that he had gone to his rendezvous -seeking a congregation, no matter how small, that would house him and -the Master he served. - -Belatedly gathering to his support, the citizens passed a sizable hat -for the benefit of the unfortunate man's widow and daughters. In -addition to the gift of cash, the woman received an invitation to bring -her grieving family to the Hills, where care would be arranged for them, -including a teaching post for the eldest daughter. Unfortunately, -neither the widow nor the daughters were in good enough health to be -able to make the rigorous trip, and in consequence they could not avail -themselves of the hospitality and generosity which were so late in -coming. - -Although they had failed to bring the parson's family to Deadwood, the -worthy citizens were undaunted in their efforts to memorialize this -modest itinerant who had stumbled unwittingly into glory. A great chunk -of sandstone was quarried and a local artist of more verve than ability -proceeded to hack out the parson's likeness. The statue was eventually -propped over his grave atop Mount Moriah, the cemetery-museum where he -lies alongside Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. Unfortunately souvenir -hunters carried on their unworthy custom over the years, until finally -the battered monument, no longer even recognizable, collapsed. In the -Adams Memorial Hall of Deadwood, however, there can be seen a -certificate signed in Preacher Smith's very writing, and thus his -handiwork lives along with his legend. - - -All stories of Deadwood in the Black Hills come, eventually, to the -great riddle of Martha Jane Cannary (sometimes spelled Canary), known as -Calamity Jane. - -This gusty female, who rolled around the West for nearly half a century, -has been the subject of more controversy and speculation than almost any -other early-day character. In her lifetime she circulated a brief -autobiography which successfully managed to hide the truth about -practically every aspect of her history. In addition, she manipulated -her drab story in such a way that a whole generation of legend-mongers -accepted her as the "true love" of Wild Bill Hickok, and thus by no -means to be thought of as the drunken harlot she most certainly was. - -By dint of careful searching, however, some few definite facts of her -early life and adventures have been isolated, and upon them at least the -framework of her true story has been constructed. She appears to have -been born in the neighborhood of 1850--add or subtract a year--in -Missouri. Some accounts have it that her father was a Baptist minister, -which is an unimportant sidelight, for young Martha Jane did not stay at -home long enough for any such influence to gnaw its way into her -personality.[2] - -How she managed to get from Missouri to Wyoming while still in her early -teens remains a mystery, but nonetheless her career as a camp follower -started when, at the tender age of fourteen, she arrived in the roaring -outpost of Rawlins. Some tales have it that she had gone west as the -consort of a young army lieutenant, and that her mother, remarried to a -pioneer, found her in that boisterous military town and took her to -Utah. In any event she came back into circulation two years later, for -in 1866 she was duly married to one George White in Cheyenne. Following -this felicitous turn of affairs she and her husband journeyed to Denver, -where he was able to support her in a fine, high style. Unfortunately, -she did not take to this pleasant existence, but shortly began to yearn -after the cavalry. Leaving her husband to his Denver duties, she -appeared all during 1867 and 1868 in various forts throughout Wyoming. -It was at this particular time in her career that she was supposed to -have earned the nickname of Calamity Jane. Undoubtedly the title was -bestowed upon her by barroom companions who had learned the sad truth -that Martha Jane's appearance on the scene boded a long and arduous -night of drinking; but in her maudlin and confused autobiography she -tells of assisting in an Indian fight and for her splendid services -being gratefully given the name by a Captain Pat Egan. In a later -interview Egan denied this, claiming that the only time he had ever seen -the woman was while escorting her out of a barracks so that the men -could get some sleep. - -From Wyoming she went to Hays City, Kansas, still following the Seventh -Cavalry, her chosen military unit. Six years later she turned up again, -this time disguised as a man and marching with General Crook's police -force, which was trying to keep settlers out of the Hills. Her -autobiography claims that she also accompanied Custer's command on its -famous exploratory march, but this does not appear to be true. - -After the discovery of gold in Deadwood, she found the high life in that -town so completely to her liking that she made it her home base. In time -she fastened herself so securely among the legends of the metropolis -that she was thereafter known solely as Calamity Jane of Deadwood. - -Taking advantage of the high romance which surrounded Wild Bill's name -after his death, Calamity made haste to pass the story around that he -had been her only true love; and although there was no evidence of any -sort that he even knew who she was, her last words, when she died in -1903, were a plea to be buried next to him. - -In the eighties she became restless again and forsook her beloved -Deadwood for two decades, roving as far south as El Paso, and on one -occasion being seen in California. Her activities at this time of her -life are mostly lost from sight, but it may be presumed that as whatever -charms she may earlier have had faded, her interest to and in the -soldiers waned. During this period she married again, this time wedding -a man named Burke, to whom she bore a daughter. She soon tired of Burke, -however, and drifted slowly north again, passing considerable time in -Colorado and then returning briefly to Deadwood in 1895. Even at that -late date the citizens of the gold town had not forgotten her, nor had -the esteem in which she had earlier been held dwindled; when it was -discovered that she lacked funds to care for her daughter, the -townspeople passed the ever present hat and arranged for the care of the -child. This act of generosity was purportedly to repay a great sacrifice -which Calamity Jane had made in the earlier days, braving the dangers of -the smallpox scourge of 1878 to nurse whoever was ill and without help. -This particular legend has had wide currency in the West, its closest -variant being the tale of Silver Heels, a dancing girl who visited the -mining camps of Colorado's South Park in the sixties. Silver Heels is -popularly supposed to have ministered to the miners during a similar -plague, for which bravery a near-by mountain was named for her. - -After placing her child in a school, Calamity, who was destitute, betook -herself to the vaudeville circuit. Inasmuch as through the dime novels -she had already become a well-known national figure, she was able for a -while to draw large crowds. Had it not been for her unfortunate habit of -getting dead drunk before show time, she might well have amassed a -competence over the years. But her first contract was not renewed, and -after a brief whirl at the Buffalo Exposition she returned to the West, -spending the next several years in Montana. - -At last she came home to Deadwood, a sick and broken old roustabout. By -this time she was nothing more than a bar-fly, and she lived out her -last days panhandling food and liquor money from strangers. At last, on -August 2, 1903, she died of pneumonia. - -Deadwood turned out in force for her funeral. As she had requested, she -was buried near Wild Bill Hickok on Mount Moriah, overlooking the town. -That she had never really known Wild Bill was quite beside the point, -and anyway, there was none present who knew whether she had or not. The -shoddy story of her "love" for Hickok was nothing that interested the -old timers, but was saved for historians to untangle. That she was no -more than an alcoholic old harlot was of no consequence, either, to the -good citizens, for with her passing the last of the great names of the -frontier was coming home to rest. That the townspeople were proud of -her, and genuinely so, was not to be denied, although there was most -certainly nobody present at that melancholy service who could have told -why. The truth of the matter was that they were burying not a broken old -woman, but the last of the Black Hills legends. - - - - - CHAPTER SIX - The White River Badlands - - -Any visit to the Black Hills must also be the occasion of a tour, at -least for a few hours, of the famous South Dakota Badlands. This -fantastic National Monument is not a part of the Hills, either -geographically or historically, but because the two regions lie so close -together--a scant fifty miles apart--they are expediently linked as two -great natural wonders in the same region. - -The term "badlands" has a loose scientific acceptance, meaning any -region where a specific type of heavy erosion has taken place. Such -regions usually have subnormal rainfall and sparse vegetation. Those -rains that do occur, then, find little on the earth's surface to prevent -almost complete runoff, which is so vigorous as to act as a powerful -cutting agent. The final ingredients of a badlands are rock formations -known as unconsolidated--lacking any general unity of structure which -might tend to withstand erosion. When all these conditions exist, the -devastation of the rushing flood waters is without pattern, a great gash -being carved in one spot while no damage is visible on a near-by -outcropping. The end result is an almost frightening collection of -gruesome stone monuments rising to the sky and marking the heights once -reached by a general plateau. - -Actually, much of the high western plain abutting on the Rocky Mountains -is basic badland formation, and small pockets of distinct erosion can be -seen all through eastern Colorado, western Nebraska, and eastern -Wyoming, in addition to the vast depression in the valleys of the White -and Cheyenne rivers in South Dakota. This one region, though, sixty-five -miles long and five to fifteen miles wide, is the largest and from the -geologist's point of view the most important of all such regions in the -world. Desolate, empty, seared by ages of sun and wind, it is now a -great gash in the earth's flesh which exposes to view rock and soil -strata that measure a great span of earth's history. - -In addition to the splendid opportunity to see and study the various -layers of the earth's surface going back as far as sixty million years, -the very composition of badlands formations makes any such region a -veritable museum of fossils and petrified animal relics. The South -Dakota Badlands have turned up absolute treasures of such -paleontological finds, enabling scientists to trace the evolution of -mammalian life all the way back to the appearance on earth of the first -carnivorous animals--the vastly distant ancestors of the dog. And the -Badlands are noted not only for the great span in geologic time of their -fossil beds, but also for the number of different types which have been -found in their ancient soil, more than 250 different prehistoric animals -having been discovered in various stages of fossilized preservation in -this general region. - -The tourist, though, need not be even an amateur student of geology or -paleontology to be thrilled and awed by a visit to this grotesque but -beautiful area. The mere colors of the various rock strata, ever -changing under the light patterns of sun and cloud, provide a -never-to-be-forgotten experience. One of the most articulate tributes to -the grandeur of the Badlands is that of Frank Lloyd Wright: - - Speaking of our trip to the South Dakota Badlands, I've been about the - world a lot and pretty much over our own country but I was totally - unprepared for the revelation called the Badlands. What I saw gave me - an indescribable sense of the mysterious otherwhere--a distant - architecture, ethereal, touched, only touched, with a sense of - Egyptian-Mayan drift and silhouette. As we came closer, a templed - realm definitely stood ambient in the air before my astonished - "scene"-loving but "scene"-jaded gaze. - - Yes, I say the aspects of the South Dakota Badlands have more - spiritual quality to impart to the mind of America than anything else - in it made by Man's God. - -The word "badlands," which now has a genuine scientific meaning, was -taken into our vocabulary from the folk name for this very region. In -the earliest days of North American exploration, far back before the -Revolution, French trappers had braved this empty wasteland on their -endless quest for new fur grounds, and had brought back tales of this -lost world of silence and strange shapes. They were the ones who gave it -the name Badlands, but they were only translating directly the Sioux -name, Mako Sika, which meant, precisely, lands bad for traveling. - -To the early explorers the badlands meant only that--high escarpments to -be overcome; twisting, winding, endless canyons from which there were no -outlets; crumbling rock underfoot on the three-hundred-foot crawls from -the canyon bottoms to the table-tops; and the hot, shimmering distances -of this forbidding terrain as far as the eye could see. - -It was, as a matter of fact, the existence of this area that helped keep -the Black Hills nothing more than an empty question mark on maps until -the rumors of gold began to circulate. The first American explorers, who -might have discovered the natural wonders of the Hills in the 1820's, -found their paths diverted to the north and the south by this impassable -valley, and consequently missed the Hills. - -The first reliable record of the wonders of this lost world was dated -1847. That year, it will be remembered, was one of great moment in the -history of the western movement--the year that Brigham Young braved the -high prairies and pathless mountains with his great exodus, settling an -empire on the shores of Great Salt Lake. Although the Pacific trails -were fairly well established by then, his was the first of the true -migrations, and the gold rush to California, the Oregon excursions, and -the Pikes Peak mosaid were yet to come. - -In this fateful year of 1847 a certain Professor Hiram A. Prout of St. -Louis came somehow into contact with a representative of the American -Fur Company, which ran substantial trapping operations all up the wide -Missouri and its tributaries. How this meeting came about is lost to -record, but we do know that the fur trader gave Professor Prout a -souvenir of his recent travels through the Badlands of Dakota--a -fragment of the lower jaw of a Titanothere, the first fossil ever to be -quarried out of the region and used for scientific purposes. - -In that same year a second Badlands fossil turned up, this one a -well-preserved head of an ancestral camel, given to or purchased by the -great scholar, Dr. Joseph Leidy. With true academic ardor both of these -gentlemen, Leidy and Prout, rushed their discoveries into scholarly -print, describing in learned journals the nature of their trophies. -Enjoying the slender circulation of academic publication, the essays -which described these fossil wonders eventually found their way into the -offices of the government's geological survey, which acted quickly to -dispatch an expedition to the overlooked region of their origin. - -That first exploring party, the David Owen Survey, went into the field -in 1849. A prominent scientist-artist, Dr. John Evans, was attached to -the group, and from his pen we have several sketches of this pioneer -adventure into the empty wastelands. If these drawings look more like -studies of Dante's Inferno than like the breath-taking Badlands as they -really are, it must be remembered that such geological formations had -never before been visited by the members of that party, and, being -completely alien to the America of their knowledge, impressed them every -bit as a visit to the moon might have done. - -The Owens party was merely the vanguard of the great army of brave men -and women who have ever since made their dangerous ways into the -remotest distances of the mountain and desert West, seeking neither -riches of gold nor riches of land, but only more minute bits of the -knowledge of the world of our past. Archeologists, geologists, and -paleontologists from universities and learned societies the world over -have spent liberally of their time, energies, and personal safety to -scout out the secrets of mankind's past in such remote corners of the -earth as the Badlands. Year after year additional expeditions, both -governmental and privately organized, made their way into this -particular area, seeking out the fossil remains which turned up in great -numbers. - -V. F. Hayden of the United States Geological Survey was one of the most -diligent of the early explorers. He made trips into the Badlands in -1853, 1855, 1857, and 1866, carrying on detailed and exhaustive studies -and eventually unraveling the story of the region's major geologic -features. - -As Hayden's reports became more and more widely circulated, various -universities found projects of specific interest in one or another phase -of the work of uncovering fossil beds; and from year to year Yale, -Princeton, Amherst, the universities of South Dakota and Nebraska, and -other institutions sent groups into the Badlands for summer work. -Gradually, as these several groups exchanged information and reports of -progress, it became possible for their scientists to trace back, through -the skeletal remains of prehistoric animals, the very processes of the -evolution of many entire families in the animal kingdom. Not only are -the fossil beds of the Badlands as richly stocked with remains as any -such bed in the world, but in a great many instances entire groups of -three, four, and five whole skeletons have been found, making it -possible for museum workers to re-create almost perfectly the animals as -they existed and to set up models of the terrain at various intervals -throughout its entire sixty-million-year history. - -Perhaps the most noteworthy as well as view-worthy section of the -Badlands is Sheep Mountain, located at the far west end of the Monument. -Down from the summit runs a great canyon, the School of Mines Canyon, -named for the fact that the South Dakota State School of Mines at Rapid -City long ago chose that location for the bulk of its paleontological -research. Under the guidance of famed Dr. Cleophas O'Harra, for many -years president of that institution, groups of Mines students went on -extended annual encampments on Sheep Mountain, unearthing, among other -rarities, full skeletons of the prehistoric midget horse, the -saber-toothed tiger, and camels. It was this last discovery that lent -considerable support to the concept, conjectural at the time of Dr. -O'Harra's discoveries, that a land bridge had once connected North -America and Asia, allowing the migration of peoples and animals from the -old world into the new. School of Mines Canyon, while some distance off -the main highway leading from Pierre to the Black Hills, is by all means -worth the time required to visit it. The canyon lies only thirteen miles -from the town of Scenic. - -The Badlands are reached by Highway 14-16 and by State Route 40. Coming -from the west, from Rapid City, the visitor can take route 40 directly -to the town of Scenic, forty-seven miles distant. From Scenic, in -addition to connecting with the side trip to Sheep Mountain, 40 -continues along the north wall of the Badlands all the way to Cedar Pass -and out the east end of the region, merging at Kadoka with Highway 16, -or, by means of a nine-mile connection, with 14. - -Should the weather be bad and State 40 not recommended by local -informers, the route is out of Rapid City on 14-16, east fifty-five -miles to the town of Wall, thence by the access road through the -Pinnacles, down into the Badlands halfway between Scenic and Cedar Pass, -and joining State 40. - -From the east, Highway 16 goes through Kadoka, from which town State 40 -should be taken, leading in through Cedar Pass, and out either through -Scenic and on to Rapid City, or at the Pinnacles, through Wall and back -on 14-16. Coming from Pierre on 14, the tourist must leave that highway -a few miles beyond the town of Philip and make the nine-mile detour on -16 to Kadoka, from there going on to Cedar Pass as described. - -Several railroads serve the Badlands and its general region, notably the -Chicago & Northwestern, the Burlington, and the Chicago, Milwaukee, and -St. Paul. This last road, the "Milwaukee," offers the traveler the best -view of the region, winding up the White River Valley the entire -sixty-five miles between Kadoka and Scenic, and providing the passenger -with unparalleled if hasty views of some of the most rugged and isolated -portions of all the area. - - - - - Bibliography - - -Allsman, Paul T. _Reconnaissance of Gold Mining Districts in the Black - Hills, South Dakota._ U.S. Bureau of Mines, No. 427. Washington, - D. C.: U.S. Dept. of Interior, 1940. - -Baldwin, G. P., editor. _The Black Hills Illustrated._ Philadelphia: - Baldwin Syndicate, 1904. - -Carpenter, F. R. _The Mineral Resources of the Black Hills._ South - Dakota School of Mines Preliminary Report, No. 1. Rapid City: - South Dakota School of Mines, 1888. - -Casey, Robert J. _The Black Hills._ New York: Bobbs-Merrill Co., 1949. - -Dick, Everett. _Vanguards of the Frontier._ New York: D. - Appleton-Century Co., 1941. - -Eloe, Frank. "Rushmore Cave," _Black Hills Engineer_, XXIV (December, - 1938), 274. - -Fenton, C. L. "South Dakota's Badlands," _Nature Magazine_, XXIV - (August, 1941), 370-74. - -Glasscock, C. B. _The Big Bonanza._ Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill Co., - 1931. - -Hans, Fred. _The Great Sioux Nation._ Chicago: Donahue, 1907. - -Hayden, F. V. and Meek, F. B. "Remarks on Geology of the Black Hills," - _Academy of Natural Science Proceedings._ Philadelphia: Academy of - Natural Science, 1858, X, 41-59. - -Hough, Emerson. _The Passing of the Frontier._ New Haven: Yale - University Press, 1921. - -Kingsbury, G. W. _History of Dakota Territory._ Chicago: The S. J. - Clarke Co., 1915. - -Lake, Stuart. _Wyatt Earp._ Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1931. - -Mirsky, Jeannette. _The Westward Crossings._ New York: Alfred A. Knopf, - 1946. - -Newton, Henry. _Geology of the Black Hills._ Washington, D. C.: United - States Geographical and Geological Survey, 1880. - -O'Harra, C. C. "The Gold Mining Industry of the Black Hills," _Black - Hills Engineer_, XIX (January, 1931), 3-9. - -----. _The White River Badlands._ Department of Geology, No. 13. Rapid - City: South Dakota School of Mines, 1920. - -Rothrach, E. P. _A Hydrologic Study of the White River Valley. South - Dakota Geological Survey Report._ Vermillion, South Dakota: - University of South Dakota, February, 1942. - -Todd, James Edward. _A Preliminary Report on the Geology of South - Dakota._ South Dakota Geological Survey, No. 1. Vermillion: - University of South Dakota, 1894. - -Tullis, E. L. "The Geology of the Black Hills," _Black Hills Engineer_, - XXV (April, 1939), 26-38. - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]For an account of the history and natural wonders of Estes Park, - readers are referred to a previous book in this series, _Estes Park: - Resort in the Rockies_, by Edwin J. Foscue and Louis O. Quam. - -[2]A treasured manuscript journal kept by the author's great-uncle, who - was for many years curator of the Colorado State Historical - Society's museum in Denver, reports an interview with Calamity Jane - some time before her death which convinced him that the facts were - substantially as they are stated here. - - On the other hand, Mr. Will G. Robinson, the eminent State Historian - of South Dakota, reports: "On the authority of Dr. McGillicuddy, who - was a medico at Ft. Laramie, and whose original letter I have, I - would be entirely certain that she was born at Ft. Laramie, of a - couple by the name of Dalton. Dalton was a soldier, was discharged - and went out a short distance west to LaBonte. Here he was killed by - Indians, although his wife got back into the fort with one eye - gouged out, after which she shortly died. Her child got her - name--Calamity--by reason of this disaster. She was not much over 40 - when she died in 1903." - - The discrepancy between these two accounts, both studiously - researched and documented by men whose professional careers have - been given over to solving puzzles of this nature with which western - history abounds, is typical of the disagreement among - well-authenticated reports of the birth and early life of this - female enigma. - - In any event, it is a matter which is still subject to a maximum - amount of conjecture, and for a much more complete account of the - variant clues readers are enthusiastically referred to Nolie Mumey's - _Calamity Jane_ (Denver: Privately printed, 1949). - - - - - Index - - - A - Abilene (Kan.), 84, 98 - Adams Memorial Museum, 103, 107 - Alaska, 73 - Algonkian Period, 19 - American Fur Company, 120 - Amherst College, 122 - Anchor City (S.D.), 63 - Archean Period, 17-18 - Archean sea, 20 - Atlantic (Iowa), 88 - - - B - Badlands, White River, 4, 6, 42, 115-17 - Bass, Sam, 79-81, 82-83, 85, 90 - Battle Mountain, 7 - Beadle & Adams, 90, 95 - Beaver Creek, 86 - Belle Fourche (S.D.), 6 - Belle Fourche River, 56 - Belle Fourche Round-up, 46 - Big Horn Basin, 66 - Big Horn River, 53 - Bismarck (S.D.), 53 - Black Bart, 78 - Black Hills & Badlands Assn., 44 - Black Hills Range Days, 46 - Black Hills Teachers College, 12 - Black Moon (Indian Chief), 66 - Blackfeet tribe, 49 - Blodgett, Sam, 71 - Borglum, Gutzon, 37-39 - Bozeman Trail, 51-53 - Brule tribe, 49, 52 - "Broken Hand." _See_ Fitzpatrick, Thomas - Buffalo Bill, 99 - Burlington Railroad, 8 - - - C - Calamity Jane, 77, 90-91, 94, 107-11 - _Calamity Jane_, 109 - California, 47, 50, 62, 75 - Cambrian Period, 19-20 - Cambrian sea, 20 - Canyon Springs, 86, 89 - Carlsbad Caverns, 28, 43 - Carson, Kit, 55 - Cathedral Park, 33 - Central City (S.D.), 63 - Cheyenne (Wyo.), 4, 59-61, 69, 80-81, 86, 89, 99 - Cheyenne-Black Hills Stage, 69, 80 - Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage, 4, 9 - Cheyenne Indians, 7 - Cheyenne River, 116 - Chicago (Ill.), 6, 34, 49 - Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, 7 - Clarke, Dick, 93 - Colorado, 32-33, 47, 58 - Coolidge, President Calvin, 31, 38, 93 - Crazy Horse (Indian Chief), 40, 52, 54, 61, 65-67 - Cripple Creek (Colo.), 72 - Crocker, Charles, 78 - Crook, General, 59, 64-66, 110 - Crystal Cave, 23 - Custer (S.D.), 6, 9, 10-11, 30-31, 40, 42-43, 46, 59, 61, 63, - 70-71, 105 - Custer, General George Armstrong, 1, 10, 54-57, 64-67, 78, 80 - Custer State Park, 19, 30 - Custer's Last Stand, 68 - - - D - Darrall, Duke, 90 - Days of '76, 46, 92 - Dead Man's Hand (poker), 95 - Deadtree Gulch, 71 - Deadwood (S.D.), 4, 11, 20, 46, 69, 81-84, 86, 91, 99, 101, 105-6, - 110-11 - Deadwood City (S.D.), 76 - Deadwood Dick, 77, 90-94 - Deadwood Dick, Jr., 92 - Deadwood Gulch, 10, 46, 71, 73 - Denver (Colo.), 3-4, 49, 60, 96, 109 - Devonian Period, 22 - Dodge, General Grenville, 51 - Dodge City (Kan.), 84 - - - E - Earp, Wyatt, 84-86 - Egan, Capt. Pat, 110 - Estes Park, 3 - Evans, Fred T., 7 - Evans Hotel, 7 - Evans, John, 120 - - - F - Fair, James, 78 - Fellows, Dick, 78 - Fitzpatrick, Thomas, 50 - Fort Ellis, 64 - Fort Fetterman, 64 - Fort Laramie, 50-52, 57 - Fort Lincoln, 53, 57 - Fort Pierre, 7, 13, 80 - Fort Sully, 51 - French Creek, 57, 69, 70 - - - G - Gall (Indian Chief), 66 - Game Lodge, 31-33 - Gayville (S.D.), 63 - Gibbon, General John, 64-65 - Gold, discovered in the Black Hills, 3 - Gold Discovery Days, 11, 46 - Golden Gate (S.D.), 63 - Golden Star mine, 73 - Golden Terra mine, 73, 75 - Gordon party, 60 - Great Plains, 49 - - - H - Haggin, James Ben Ali, 74 - Harney Peak, 1, 19, 32, 35-36, 40 - Harney-Sanborne Treaty, 53 - Hayden, V. F., 121 - Hays City (Kan.), 98, 110 - Hearst, Senator George, 74-75 - Hearst, William Randolph, 74 - Hickok, Wild Bill, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Hinckley's Overland Express, 96 - Homestake Mine, 69, 72-76, 80, 87, 89 - Homestake Mining Co., 75 - Hot Springs (S.D.), 6, 8-9, 11, 29, 34 - - - I - Ice Cave, 43-44 - Inkpaduta (Indian Chief), 66 - _Inter-Ocean_, 58 - - - J - Jefferson, President Thomas, 37, 39 - Jenney Stockade, 86 - Jennings, Dr., 7 - Jewel Cave, 11, 23, 42, 44 - Jones, Seth, 90 - Julesburg (Colo.), 97 - - - K - Kansas, 96 - Kansas City (Mo.), 49 - Kind, Ezra, 48 - - - L - Lake, Agnes, 99 - Laramie (Wyo.), 61 - Last Chance Gulch, 73 - Lead (S.D.), 75 - _Legend of Sam Bass_, 79 - Leidy, Dr. Joseph, 120 - Lincoln, President Abraham, 37, 39 - Lincoln Highway, 4 - Little Big Horn River, 10, 68 - Luenen (Germany), 12 - - - Mc - McCall, Jack, 95, 100-102 - McCanles gang, 96, 98 - McKay, William T., 54, 56 - - - M - Manuel, Fred, 73-75 - Manuel, Moses, 73-75 - Meier, Joseph, 12 - Miles City (Mont.), 6 - Minneapolis (Minn.), 6 - Minnekahta Canyon, 7 - Minnesota, 50 - Minniconjou tribe, 49 - Mississippian Period, 22 - Missouri, 97, 108 - Missouri River, 2, 6, 49, 53, 88 - Missouri Valley, 48, 50 - Mogollon (mountains), 63 - Montana, 10, 47, 51, 64 - Mount Coolidge, 41 - Mount Evans, 33 - Mount Moriah Cemetery, 103, 107, 113 - Mount Rushmore, 37, 39, 40-41 - Mount Washington, 32 - Mumey, Nolie, 109 - Murietta, Joaquin, 78 - - - N - National Park Service, 28, 30, 43, 45 - Nebraska, 42, 54, 88 - Needles, The, 33 - Needles Highway, 33-35 - Nevada, 47 - Newcastle (Wyo.), 43 - Niobrara River, 54 - North America, 17, 20, 24, 75 - North Platte River, 2, 64 - Number Ten, 99-100 - - - O - Oglala tribe, 49, 52, 65 - O'Harra, Dr. Cleophas, 123 - Omaha (Neb.), 4, 49 - Ordovician Period, 22 - Oregon Trail, 51 - Oregon-California Trail, 2 - Owen Survey, 120 - - - P - Paha Sapa (Indian name for Black Hills), 2, 4, 7, 9, 10, 48 - Paleozoic Era, 19 - Passion Play, 72 - Pearson, John, 71-72 - Pierre (S.D.), 2, 6, 51 - Pikes Peak, 58, 62 - Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, 40 - Platte River, 50 - Platte River-Oregon Trail, 49 - Platte Valley, 60, 96 - Portland-Independence Mine, 72 - Powder River Valley, 65 - Preacher Smith, 90-91, 104-5 - Princeton University, 122 - Prout, Prof. Hiram, 119-20 - - - R - Rapid City (S.D.), 4, 6-7, 11, 13-14, 31, 46, 49 - Rawlins (Wyo.), 109 - Red Cloud (Indian Chief), 52-53 - Reno, Major, 67-68 - Reynolds, Charley, 57 - Rhodes, Eugene Manlove, 18 - Rio Grande Valley, 19 - Robinson, Will, 108 - Rocky Mountains, 1, 3, 15, 34, 37, 50, 62, 96, 116 - Roosevelt, President Theodore, 37, 39 - Rosebud Creek, 65 - Ross, H. N., 55 - - - S - St. Joseph (Mo.), 49, 96 - St. Louis (Mo.), 49, 57 - St. Paul (Minn.), 49 - San Arc tribe, 49 - San Francisco (Calif.), 74-75 - Santa Fe Trail, 49 - Santee Sioux, 50 - School of Mines Canyon, 123 - Seventh Cavalry, 110 - Sheridan, General Phil, 56-57 - Sidney (Neb.), 13, 61, 69, 75, 80 - Sidney Short Route, 80 - Silurian Period, 22 - Silver Heels, 112 - Sioux Indians, 7, 61, 63 - Sioux War, 69 - Sitting Bull (Indian Chief), 54, 64, 66-67 - Smith, Rev. Henry. _See_ Preacher Smith - South Dakota, 2, 4, 13, 30, 36, 44, 93 - Spearfish (S.D.), 6, 11, 13, 48 - Spencer, Joseph, 34 - Springfield (Mo.), 97 - Standing Bear (Indian Chief), 40 - Stanford, Leland, 78 - Sunday Creek, 35 - Sylvan Lake, 33-36, 39 - - - T - _Ten Nights in a Barroom_, 103 - Terry, General, 63-64 - Teton Sioux, 2, 49 - Texas Rangers, 79 - Thoen, Louis, 48 - Thunderhead Mountain, 40-41 - _Trial of Jack McCall, The_, 103 - Triassic Period, 24 - Two Kettle tribe, 49 - - - U - Union Pacific Railroad, 13, 49, 58, 80 - University of Nebraska, 122 - University of South Dakota, 122 - Unkpapa tribe, 49 - Ussher, Archbishop James, 17 - Utah, 109 - - - V - Vale of Minnekahta, 7 - Virginia City (Nev.), 73 - - - W - War Department, 59 - Washington (D.C.), 58, 61, 93 - Washington, President George, 37, 39, 91 - Wells Fargo, 74, 83-84 - Wheeler, Edward L., 91 - White, George, 109 - White River, 116 - White River Badlands. _See_ Badlands - Wild Bill Hickok, 90, 94-97, 100-102, 107-8 - Wind Cave, 23, 27-29, 42-44 - Wind Cave Park, 41 - Witwatersrand, 72 - Wood Lake, battle of, 51 - Wright, Frank Lloyd, 117 - Wyoming, 4, 9, 32, 42, 86 - - - Y - Yale University, 122 - Yankton (S.D.), 102 - - - Z - Ziolkowski, Korczak, 40-41, 103 - - - $2.50 - - - THE BLACK HILLS - MID-CONTINENT RESORT - -From taboo Indian fastness to roaring gold camp to modern resort and -recreation area--so runs the history of the Black Hills, Paha Sapa of -the Indians, which are really not hills at all but mountains, the -highest east of the Rockies. Back through geologic ages the story -extends, to the thunderous time when Nature fashioned the intricate -formations of the Hills and their companion geologic marvel, the -Badlands. - -Here, in racy and fluent prose, Albert N. Williams has brought the full -sweep of this story to life, from its beginning in the mighty geologic -upheaval that, before the Alps had been formed, thrust the giant spire -of Harney Peak up through the ancient shale, to the present quiet rest -of man-made Sylvan Lake, where it lies peacefully reflecting its great -granite shields for the delight of the traveler. - -On the way he tells of the discovery of gold in this "mysterious and -brooding dark mountain-land" just when gold-hungry men had decided that -the bonanza days were gone forever; of the Indian fighting that reached -its tragic climax at the Little Big Horn; of the development of the -Homestake, one of earth's greatest mines; of the hazardous stage-coach -journeys on which "shotgun messengers" guarded chests of bullion; and, -most fascinating of all, of the amazing personalities--Sam Bass and -Wyatt Earp and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane and Preacher -Smith--who inhabited the Hills in their gaudiest days or, like Deadwood -Dick, lived a no less vivid life in the pages of dime novels. - -If this were all, _The Black Hills_ would be a book for any lover of our -country's natural glories and thrilling history to pick up and be unable -to lay down again until he had finished it. But other chapters directed -particularly to the tourist make it also a book for the traveler to keep -always with him and to consult at every point in his journey through the -Black Hills. All he needs to know is here--the highways to take into the -Hills, the towns with their historic plays and celebrations, the peaks -and lakes and caves he will find, the sports he may enjoy, the places -where he may stay. A trip so guided cannot fail to be filled with the -excitement the author himself has found in the Black Hills, of which he -says that in his opinion "no other resort area in the United States -possesses such a wealth of tourist attractions." - - -Albert N. Williams was for many years a writer for NBC in New York, and -for two years Editor-in-Chief of the English features section of the -Voice of America. He is the author of _Listening_, _Rocky Mountain -Country_, _The Water and the Power_, and numerous short fiction pieces -in national magazines. He is at present Director of Development of the -University of Denver. - - [Illustration: Southern Methodist University Press Logo] - - Southern Methodist University Press - Dallas 5, Texas - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Silently corrected a few typos. - ---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - ---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Black Hills, Mid-Continent Resort, by -Albert Nathaniel Williams - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK HILLS MID-CONTINENT RESORT *** - -***** This file should be named 55088.txt or 55088.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/0/8/55088/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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