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} -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.dialog { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-1em; } - -div.trump p { text-indent:1em; } -div.verse p { text-indent:-3em; } -div.trump dl.toc dt { text-align:left; } -div.trump dl.toc dt a { width: 4.5em; text-align:right; display:inline-block; margin-right:.7em; } - -td.l { text-align:left; font-family:sans-serif; } -td.r { text-align:right; font-family:sans-serif; } -td.c { text-align:center; font-family:sans-serif; } -</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Algeria and Tunis, by Frances E. Nesbitt - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Algeria and Tunis - -Author: Frances E. Nesbitt - -Release Date: July 4, 2017 [EBook #55041] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ALGERIA AND TUNIS *** - - - - -Produced by Donald Cummings, Adrian Mastronardi, Stephen -Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian -Libraries) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Algeria and Tunis" width="500" height="716" /> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p000.jpg" alt="" width="673" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">MOSQUE OF SIDI ZIAD, TUNIS -<br />The Auction Day</p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1>ALGERIA AND TUNIS</h1> -<p class="center"><span class="larger">PAINTED & DESCRIBED -<br />BY FRANCES E. NESBITT</span></p> -<p class="center"><span class="larger">PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. -<br />BLACK · LONDON · MCMVI</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_v">v</div> -<h2><span class="large">Contents</span></h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt class="jr small">PAGE</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER I</dt> -<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="sc">The City of El Djezair</span></a> 3</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER II</dt> -<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="sc">The Country-Side</span></a> 17</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER III</dt> -<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="sc">The Gates of the Desert</span></a> 37</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER IV</dt> -<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="sc">The Queen of the Desert</span></a> 57</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER V</dt> -<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="sc">Life on an Oasis</span></a> 71</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER VI</dt> -<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="sc">Timgad</span></a> 93</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER VII</dt> -<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="sc">Constantine</span></a> 107</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER VIII</dt> -<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="sc">On the Way to Tunis</span></a> 119</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER IX</dt> -<dt><a href="#c9"><span class="sc">Tunis</span></a> 139</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER X</dt> -<dt><a href="#c10"><span class="sc">Life in Tunis</span></a> 159</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER XI</dt> -<dt><a href="#c11"><span class="sc">Carthage</span></a> 179</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER XII</dt> -<dt><a href="#c12"><span class="sc">Sousse and El Djem</span></a> 193</dt> -<dt class="center">CHAPTER XIII</dt> -<dt><a href="#c13"><span class="sc">The Sacred City</span></a> 207</dt> -<dt><a href="#c14">INDEX</a> 227</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_vii">vii</div> -<h2><span class="large">List of Illustrations</span></h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><a href="#fig1">1. Mosque of Sidi Ben Ziad, Tunis—the Auction Day</a> <i>Frontispiece</i></dt> -<dt class="jr small">FACING PAGE</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig2">2. The Penon, Algiers</a> 4</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig3">3. An Old Street, Algiers</a> 6</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig4">4. The Carpet School, Algiers</a> 8</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig5">5. Mosque of Sidi Abder Rahman, Algiers</a> 10</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig6">6. The Leopard Door, Algiers</a> 12</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig7">7. Algiers from the Jardin d’Essai</a> 16</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig8">8. View from Mustapha, Algiers</a> 18</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig9">9. On my Balcony, Algiers</a> 20</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig10">10. Bougainvillæa, Algiers</a> 22</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig11">11. The Garden Court of an Old Moorish Villa, Algiers</a> 24</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig12">12. Friday at the Cemetery, Algiers</a> 26</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig13">13. Koubba of Sidi Noumann, Bouzareah</a> 28</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig14">14. Stone Pines, Algiers</a> 30</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig15">15. The Red Aloes</a> 32</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig16">16. The Gates of the Desert</a> 38</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig17">17. Spinning</a> 42</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig18">18. The Red Village, El Kantara</a> 46</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig19">19. On the Edge of the Desert</a> 48</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig20">20. Carding Wool</a> 50</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig21">21. In the heart of an Oasis</a> 52</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig22">22. In the Market-Place, Biskra</a> 58</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig23">23. Evening on the Sahara</a> 60</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig24">24. Sunset</a> 62</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig25">25. The Fruit Market, Biskra</a> 64</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig26">26. The Story-Teller</a> 66</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig27">27. A Village Street, Biskra</a> 70</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig28">28. A River of the Sahara</a> 74</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig29">29. A Biskra Woman</a> 76</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig30">30. A Nomad Camp</a> 78</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig31">31. A Caravan on the Sahara</a> 80</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig32">32. The Begging Marabout</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig33">33. The Palm Village</a> 84</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig34">34. A Mozabite Fantasia</a> 86</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig35">35. Street of the Dancing Girls, Biskra</a> 88</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig36">36. The Arch of Trajan, Timgad</a> 96</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig37">37. The Forum, Timgad</a> 100</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig38">38. Market Day, Timgad</a> 102</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig39">39. Gorge of the Roumel, Constantine</a> 108</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig40">40. A Game of Draughts</a> 112</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig41">41. The Silent Waterfall, Hammam Meskoutine</a> 120</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig42">42. The Arab Wedding, Hammam Meskoutine</a> 122</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig43">43. Temple of Celestis, Dougga</a> 132</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig44">44. Tunis</a> 140</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig45">45. Souk des Etoffes, Tunis</a> 144</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig46">46. Souk el Attarin, Tunis</a> 148</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig47">47. Souk el Trouk, Tunis</a> 150</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig48">48. Souk el Belat, Tunis</a> 152</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig49">49. Tunis from the Belvedere</a> 158</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig50">50. A Street of Arches, Tunis</a> 160</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig51">51. The Zaouïa of the Rue Tourbet el Bey, Tunis</a> 164</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig52">52. Souk el Hout, Tunis</a> 166</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig53">53. Rue Tourbet el Bey, Tunis</a> 168</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig54">54. Rag Fair</a> 170</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig55">55. The Fritter Shop, Tunis</a> 172</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig56">56. Unlading Wood</a> 174</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig57">57. The Ancient Ports of Carthage</a> 180</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig58">58. The Old Punic Cisterns, Carthage</a> 182</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig59">59. The Carthage Aqueduct</a> 184</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig60">60. The Site of Carthage from Sidi Bou Saïd</a> 188</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig61">61. Sousse</a> 194</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig62">62. The Basket-Makers, Sousse</a> 196</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig63">63. The Roman Amphitheatre, El Djem</a> 200</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig64">64. Evening, Kairouan</a> 206</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig65">65. La Grande Rue, Kairouan</a> 210</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig66">66. Carpet-Making</a> 212</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig67">67. Mosque of Sidi Okba, Kairouan</a> 214</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig68">68. Moorish Gateway, Kairouan</a> 218</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig69">69. The Mosque of the Three Doors, Kairouan</a> 220</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig70">70. A Desert Afterglow</a> 224</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig71"><i>Map at end of Volume.</i></a></dt> -</dl> -<p class="tbcenter"><i>The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved and printed in England by The Hentschel Colourtype, Limited.</i></p> -<h1 title="">ALGERIA AND TUNIS</h1> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<h2 id="c1">CHAPTER I -<br /><span class="small">THE CITY OF EL DJEZAIR</span></h2> -<p>Algiers is such a city of contrasts, of dark memories -and present prosperity, of Christian slavery and -Christian rule, brilliant sun and tropical rain, of wide -modern streets and networks of narrow alleys, with -the slow dignity of movement of the old race and the -rapid vivacity of their new rulers, that it makes all the -difference in the world in what spirit and at what -moment you arrive. At times the city is all sunshine, -“a diamond in an emerald frame,” as the Arabs call -it; at others only a dim outline is visible blotted out -by the tropical rain.</p> -<p>When first we saw Algiers, after a dreamy, peaceful -voyage from Gibraltar, the city was in its most brilliant -mood. Having started in glorious spring weather, -we watched the Sierra Nevada actually fulfilling all -childish dreams of snow mountains, seemingly suspended -in the soft cloudy distance with a suggestion -of a double horizon, which some people called a -mirage. Blue sky, bluer sea, still and calm,—nothing -<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span> -discordant but the notes of the bugle-calls to meals. -By nightfall the mountains had faded away, and all we -saw was a long line of blue African coast, mysterious -and dim. But in the morning there was excitement -and bustle enough, the bugles beginning at dawn—a -lovely dawn and sunrise. Then the joy of coming into -harbour and seeing the white terraces of the town -gleaming in the sunshine. General impression all -charm, brightness, and colour. The next time we felt -the full force of contrast. Grey drizzling weather -at Marseilles, a rolling sea, cold winds and general -depression as the keynote of the voyage, to be followed -by a late landing on a winter evening, the bright green -of the hills dim with rain, the houses looking as grey -and chill as ourselves standing forlornly under umbrellas -on dripping decks, and almost wet through in the short -run from the steamer to a carriage; for a downpour -in Algiers is a downpour, just as sunshine is really -sunshine, and not the faint flickering of light and shade -we sometimes mistake for it at home. So that we -could fully sympathise with our fellow-travellers’ distress, -whilst remembering the loveliness we knew might -return at any moment. In any case landing is rather -a disappointment, because the first impression is so -entirely French, with scarcely a touch of the East. The -harbour, quay, and houses behind are all modern, and -might belong to any city of southern France; the only -difference at first is the sight of the boys, with their -smiling faces and queer clothes, who fight for the -privilege of carrying the luggage—such nondescript -clothes, half European, half Eastern. Old coats, old -boots, the coats generally too small, the boots too large, -worn with a variety of Eastern garments and nearly -always with a scarlet Manchester handkerchief wound -round their heads.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p001.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="728" /> -<p class="caption">THE PENON, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<p>Driving through the town, the French touch -dominates everywhere—very wide streets, high houses, -electric trams, motor cars, shops all entirely European; -and then, as Mustapha is reached, the white houses, the -gardens, even the view over the Bay to the mountains -beyond, suggest Italy, the Bay of Naples, not the home -of those dreaded pirates who so recently held their -reign of terror here. In fact, those who like to do so -might imagine they had never left the Riviera. But -for those who love exploring strange scenes, there is -a great deal more than this: for behind those tiresome -modern houses the Arab quarter lies hidden, little -altered and yet fast disappearing. The winding Rue -de Rovigo cuts through it again and again on its way -from the harbour to the Casbah, and yet it is still quite -easy to get lost in the mazes of the narrow streets. In -old times, when the Dey still ruled and the walls ran -triangular fashion from the broad base of the harbour -to the great fortress, or Casbah, at the top of the hill, -the city must have been charming to look at, however -terrible to live in. Now it is possible to go safely into -even the darkest and remotest corners—and they are -dark indeed. A first visit leaves one breathless but -delighted. Breathless, because all the streets are staircases -on a more or less imposing scale; the longest is -<span class="pb" id="Page_6">6</span> -said to have at least 500 steps; delighted, because at -every turn there is sure to be something unusual to a -stranger’s eye. The newer stairs are wide and straight -and very uninteresting. But only turn into any old -street and follow its windings, in and out between -white walls, under arches through gloomy passages, -here a few stairs, there a gentle incline always up, and -always the cool deep shade leading to the bright blue -of the sky above. Being so narrow and so steep, there -are of course no camels and no carts. Donkeys do all -the work, and trot up and down with the strangest -loads, though porters carry furniture and most of the -biggest things. Up and down these streets comes an -endless variety of figures—town and country Arabs, -Spahis in their gay uniforms, French soldiers, Italian -workmen, children in vivid colours, Jewesses with -heads and chins swathed in dark wrappings, and interesting -beyond all these the Arab women flitting like -ghosts from one shadowy corner to another, the folds -of their haïcks concealing all the glories of their indoor -dress, so that in the street the only sign of riches lies -in the daintiness of the French shoes, and the fact that -the haïck is pure silk, and the little veil over the face of -a finer material, as the enormous Turkish trousers are -all alike and of cotton. Still, it is hardly a satisfactory -crowd from a picturesque standpoint, as everything -seems so mixed up, and so many of the people do not -even appear to know themselves what their nationality -is, or their dress should be. Bazaars there are none, -only the usual Eastern-looking little shops, and the -Moorish cafés crowded with men drinking their tiny -cups of coffee and smoking cigarettes.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p002.jpg" alt="" width="455" height="999" /> -<p class="caption">AN OLD STREET, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<p>The architectural peculiarity of Algiers is the curious -arrangement of poles, all supposed to be of cedar wood, -supporting the upper stories of the houses, which are -built to project over and shade the lower, and nearly -meeting overhead. Occasionally a fine gateway, rarely -a decorative window, breaks the white surface of the -walls, which are whitewashed and rewhitewashed continually. -Generally the outer windows are mere holes, -and the doors are hidden in the darkest corners. To -the uninitiated nothing suggests riches or poverty; the -walls are like masks. But once inside and through -the dark entrance corridor, some of the houses are most -beautiful. They are much alike, with their cloistered -courts, with delicate, twisted columns and fine capitals. -The reception-rooms have wide openings into the court, -so that the cool fountain, and the flowers and trees, if -there are any, may be enjoyed. The upper rooms -open in a similar fashion upon a wooden balcony, -generally beautiful with carving. The court and all -the rooms are decorated with tiles of old designs, very -rich and soft in colour, and many of the rooms have -stucco work in the style of the Alhambra, only rougher -and coarser in handling. Such houses or palaces or -fragments of them are numerous. The Archbishop’s -Palace, the Governor’s Palace, the old library, and the -curiosity shops are the best known.</p> -<p>Even some of the schools are in fine old houses. The -embroidery school was the prettiest, and was a charming -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -sight with the court full of tiny children sitting -on the matting and bending over their low embroidery -frames—beautiful embroideries hanging over the balcony; -and if one chose to climb up to the roof, a fine view of -old Algiers, its roofs and terraces. Now the school -has moved to larger quarters—another old house, pretty -also, but not so interesting. The carpet school is most -picturesque: there is a big doorway and the usual dark -passage, then the door opens into the court, which is -quite a small one with very strong light and shade. -Between the pillars all round stand the big looms, and -on low benches in front sit the little girls at work. -The floor of the court is marble, the pillars are very -curiously cut in varying designs, and are all coloured a -rich yellowish orange. The balcony of the upper story -has some good carved work, but very little of it is -visible owing to the carpets of every tone and tint which -hang over it. There are carpets on the floor, carpets -in rolls, carpets and children everywhere; for upstairs -also are more looms, and everywhere little workers, -mostly girls, with here and there a very small boy—odd -little things, with their long full Turkish trousers, -white or in bright colours, their loose jackets, also -mostly white, and their little heads veiled in white or -else bound round with the gayest of handkerchiefs. -The effect is often spoilt by common European blouses -and quite hideous check shawls. Carpet-making looks -easy enough, and the children seem to enjoy threading -the bright wool through the web and tying the knots; -for a little while that is, then like a little flight of butterflies -they all come in a whirl to see what the stranger -is doing in the dark inner room. This was alarming -at first, as many are the stories of sketches destroyed -and artists tormented by the irate victims of their -brushes, and these innocent-looking little people, with -their sweet smiles and pretty ways, were said to be most -troublesome. But either they did not understand or -they liked to be painted, for the smiles never died away -till the mistress ordered them back to work, though for -a few minutes one little maid propped up her pattern so -as to hide her face. However, she soon forgot and -things went on as before.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="" width="647" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE CARPET SCHOOL, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<p>This was not always the case, for in the garden of -one of the mosques the small boys climbed a tree and -threw stones at the drawings, because, as they excitedly -explained, “The Mosque belongs to us, and no stranger -has any business even to look at it.” This is rather a -hard saying, as the tomb-mosque in question—that of the -Saint called Sidi Mohammed Abder Rahman-el-Telebi—is -decidedly attractive to the poor despised foreigner. -To reach it there is a good climb up many steps -through the old town to a bare and dusty spot on one -of the new roads—a most unpromising road to look at -if it were not for a glimpse of blue over the roofs -below. Until last year there was only a plain white -wall and then a gateway, and outside the gateway, -squatting in the dust, a sad company all sick or infirm, -and all beggars striving and struggling for compassion -and <i>un petit sou</i>. Now the gateway is dwarfed and -hidden by the domes of the new schools of the mosque, -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -white with an absolutely blinding whiteness, making the -importunity of the beggars seem less annoying than this -aggressive newness. From the gateway a narrow staircase -descends towards the sea, and at the first white -domed tomb there is a turn, a door is pushed open, and -a strange little burying-place is seen, with many sacred -tombs, the most important of which is decorated with -tiles and a projecting roof. Many of the smaller tombs -are covered completely with tiles, mostly green and -blue. There are also bands of old faience round the -minaret, which is a very graceful one, having three tiers -of slender colonnades running round it. A little grass, -a few trees, a great cypress, a budding fig-tree, and the -Arab women moving softly, for this is one of their -favourite places of prayer, complete the picture. The -mosque itself is small, the tomb seen dimly in the darkness, -which gives a mystery and charm to the abundance -of queer things hanging as votive offerings, and to the -rich colours of the tiles and the carpets. It is not an -important mosque, but it is a place full of character -and attraction, partly from its situation and partly from -the irregularity and strangeness of the buildings. The -other mosques have none of this undefined charm, being -simply large, bare, whitewashed buildings, with, in the -case of the great mosque, some fine old columns and a -very pretty fountain in the court with a tree shadowing -it, and bright tiles as decoration. There is also a tiny -mosque in the old town, which is always full of women -praying for babies. It is the tomb of another saint, and -so small that the best way to see it is to stoop and look -in through a window and watch the women, who are -not so absorbed in prayer as to prevent their smiling -and returning the gaze with interest.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p004.jpg" alt="" width="706" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">MOSQUE OF SIDI ABDER RAHMAN, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<p>For the rest, there is a sad feeling that most of the -Oriental life is dying slowly out, that the quaintness is -disappearing, and that the tendency is greater here than -elsewhere to cover over and hide the old life and -manners with a sort of cloak of modern civilisation. It -is even said that all the better-class Arabs have already -emigrated to Tunis, Egypt, or Constantinople. The -walls have gone, the gates also. Nothing now is left -but the great fortress itself upon the highest point of -the city, now used for barracks, a few fragments of the -walls, and most beautiful of all, the old harbour. It -is almost impossible to believe that such a small harbour -ever sheltered so strong a pirate fleet that it could -ravage the coasts of Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, the ports of -Italy and Spain, and even penetrate as far as England. -Although Mr. Eaton, an American Consul who was -sent with arrears of tribute (four vessels) due from the -United States in 1798, did say, “Can any man believe -that this elevated brute has seven kings of Europe, two -Republics, and a Continent tributary to him, when his -whole naval force is not equal to two line of battleships?” -Yet these Barbary pirates literally spread -terror around from their earliest beginnings in 1390 -down to the time when Lord Exmouth brought the -Dey to reason by bombarding Algiers in 1816 and freeing -the slaves. But that was only a temporary improvement, -and the bad state of affairs only came to an -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -end with the French occupation in 1830. The whole -history of the Barbary State is very sad and humiliating -reading, with its accounts of the bargaining of the -various Powers for the release of the Christian slaves, -of whom there were often as many as twenty thousand -to thirty thousand in Algiers itself. Now the harbour -is full of innocent-looking coasting craft with lateen -sails, many pleasure-boats and yachts, and a few torpedo -boats. The serious business of shipping goes on in the -outer harbour, which is full of steamers and merchantmen, -whose dark hulls and smoking funnels form another -striking but not attractive contrast.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p005.jpg" alt="" width="634" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE LEOPARD DOOR, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<p>The beautiful Moorish tower called the Penon, and -now used as a lighthouse, was built in 1544 on the site -of the old Spanish fort, and rises from the midst of a -group of old buildings, with here and there a fine bit -of Moorish work amongst them, though, as they are -used by the Admiralty, there is much that is modern -and business-like as well. In the wall is a characteristic -fountain; a flat surface decorated with inscriptions in -Arabic and carvings in marble in very slight relief, with -a simple spout for the water. Farther on, rather hidden -up in a corner under an arch, is the famous Tiger or -Leopard gateway—a very curious bit of work, the chief -peculiarity of which is that these two odd heraldic -animals guarding a shield are supposed to be of Arab -workmanship. Now, as it is strictly forbidden by their -religion to make images of living moving things, a -legend has been invented to the effect that the decoration -was done by a Persian slave, and that his masters -found it so surpassingly beautiful that they had not -the heart to destroy it. However, it really looks much -more like Spanish work done during their occupation -of the place, and though quaint, decorative, and rather -unusual, is not really beautiful at all. These and many -more are the old-world nooks and corners in the city -which the modern builder has not yet overthrown, and -where it is quite easy for a few moments to dream oneself -back into the old life, though the dreams generally -end in a sudden shock—the noise of an electric tram, -the hooting of a motor, a cyclist’s bell, or the appearance -of some thoroughly Western figure who could -never have had any sympathy with the Arabian Nights.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p006.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="714" /> -<p class="caption">ALGIERS FROM THE JARDIN D’ESSAI</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<h2 id="c2">CHAPTER II -<br /><span class="small">THE COUNTRY-SIDE</span></h2> -<p>Whatever people may think of Algiers itself,—whether -they are most attracted by its old-world side, or its up-to-date -would-be Paris quarter, with the wide, handsome -boulevards and quays, the arcaded streets, the -crowded squares, or even by the endless pleasure of -treasure-hunting in the many curiosity shops, and the -yet more endless bargaining that this entails,—still it -is generally with a sigh of relief that they turn from the -noise and clatter of the stone-paved streets, and wind -their way towards the heights of Mustapha Supérieur -and El Biar, where most of the foreign visitors and -residents live.</p> -<p>At first the way is weary, up-hill as usual, and along -a prosaic street, almost the only interest being a few -fragments of the city wall near the English church, -which till only a few years ago stood at the meeting-place -of town and country, and is now quite swallowed -up by the ever-growing town.</p> -<p>But though the ascent may be steep, the way long, -and the streets not very interesting, these little matters -<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span> -are soon forgotten as the road passes quite suddenly at -last into a region of shady trees and gardens, and -winds on and up past hotels and villas till at last the -heights are gained, and lovely, ever-varying views open -on every side. It is a joy to live in one of these white -houses half-hidden by a mist of green, to stand on the -sunny terrace in the early part of the day and look -out over the sea—a joy which is new every morning -and which increases day by day.</p> -<p>In the distance, above the exquisite curve of the -bay, is a long line of mountains, imposing enough, -and fine in form, sometimes dark and gloomy with -storm cloud, at other times so faintly blue that their -outlines barely show against the pale lightness of the -sky. These nearer mountains are things of every day, -and their changing moods are always visible, but above -and beyond these come and go, for a few fleeting -moments, like a vision, the great snow mountains of -Kabylia. Mysterious, delicate, elusive, hardly to be -distinguished from cloud masses, and yet grand and -majestic in outline as any in Switzerland—a strange, -unwonted sight to those who only know North Africa -as it appears in Egypt. For though we all know -better, snow mountains on this scale will suggest a -northern landscape with pines and fir trees, and not the -sort of vegetation this garden land supplies as a foreground. -As far as one can see, a rich plain and softly -wooded heights, olives and almonds, palms and pepper -trees, sycamores, stone pines in endless variety, and -closer still are tropical flowers, strange to see with a -snow background. It seems wrong, somehow, and the -fact of its being January adds to the oddness of the -feeling.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="675" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW FROM MUSTAPHA, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<p>But the view cannot be said to be all charm and -dreamy beauty, for unfortunately, or fortunately, there -is a great deal more. Lower Mustapha also lies spread -like a map before you—a prosperous town, with -factories, government and otherwise, smoking chimneys, -and barracks. This is why early morning is the best -moment, for then the veil of smoke and mist hides -the ugliness, and prevents the counting of those odious -chimneys, and leaves Upper Mustapha alone to act as -foreground, where it is still country, in its own way, -the hills covered with trees and gardens, and the endless -houses simply showing as sparkles of light. Still, it is -one of those places that makes the new-comer long -to have seen and known a few years ago, before this -sudden great prosperity; for in those days when the -factories did not exist, the villas were all beautiful, -and few and far between, and it was possible to walk -through fields, and over the hillside, gathering wild -flowers all the way, to the very gates of the city. And -all this is a question of a few years, so rapid has been -the success of the colony when once it really started; -before that, the old descriptions of the place held true -and still do so, if only a little judicious shutting of the -eyes is used occasionally, such as the glowing picture, -drawn by one of the English officers of the squadron -that came to Algiers in 1674, of the beautiful country, -houses white as chalk on either side of the town, with -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -gardens and vineyards abounding in all kinds of fruit -and vegetables. Oranges and lemons had only lately -been planted, but they produced so abundantly, that -“he bought sixty for a royal”; although it was -Christmas they had apples, cauliflowers, roses, carnations, -and “most sorts of ffruights, flowers and -salating.”</p> -<p>It would now take an immense catalogue, as large -as any of the bulky volumes issued by our English -seedsmen, to sum up all the trees, flowers, and fruits -that can be found not only in the beautiful gardens, or -in the great Jardin d’Essai, but also growing wild on -the whole country-side. In January the trees and -hedges along the roads and by-ways are festooned by -masses of white clematis growing like our traveller’s -joy, but with flowers whose petals are at least an inch -long. A little later there are irises everywhere: a -dwarf kind with large lilac-coloured flowers, and also, -but rarely, a white variety has been found. Then -comes one of the chief pleasures of spring—drives far -out into the country, where the rolling hills, the -coombes, and the rich, red soil bring memories of -Devonshire (memories a little disturbed by the vineyards -that clothe the hills, and the distant snow-clad -mountains). The object of these drives is to gather -the wild narcissus, which is found growing in marshy -hollows on the wildest parts of the hillside beyond -Dely Ibrahim. They grow in such quantities, that -large bunches can be made in a few minutes at the -expense of a little agility and some rather muddy boots. -Later on, the asphodel covers every waste space with -flowery spikes and ribbon leaves.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p008.jpg" alt="" width="672" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">ON MY BALCONY, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<p>The roads, as is the way of French roads, are wide -and good, with gradients suited to military needs; but -the lanes of Mustapha and El Biar are a feature of the -place—narrow, sometimes very steep, often more like -the bed of a torrent than a path, with stone walls full -of plants and ferns, overarched by trees, with aloes and -prickly pear crowning the banks; shady and cool in -the heat, damp like a tunnel in the wet, lonely and -not always very safe—a point which perhaps adds something -to their fascination.</p> -<p>The real delight of the whole place lies for most -people in the possession of a villa, Moorish or otherwise, -and a garden—and the garden is the thing. This is -why there are many who cannot feel the indescribable -charm which makes Egypt what it is. They talk of the -monotony of sand and hill, palm and river, and miss -those months of winter passed amidst the flowers and -trees, and can hardly realise that the still water, and -the sunsets which seem to open the very gates of heaven, -can ever compensate even slightly for their loss. -Naturally they have sunsets too; only to enjoy them -properly you must dwell on the heights of El Biar and -arrange to have a western outlook across the plain. Then -and then only can you sometimes feel that the glories, -and now and then the calm of the East reach even here. -Flowers are better is their cry, and perhaps this is true; -at any rate it is good to live all through what should -be winter with the white walls of your house aglow -<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span> -with colour, draped with purple Bougainvillæa, or, as in -one well-known, well-loved garden, with a fiery cross -of the more uncommon terra cotta variety upon that -same fine whiteness, with the blue sea far beyond, and -peeps of mountains, plain, and harbour as a background, -whilst all around comes the scent of violets, sweet peas -and roses, not to speak of calycanthus and other fragrant -shrubs. Here there are irises and narcissus, and all the -old-world English flowers, mingling in friendly fashion -with strange companions: cactus and aloes of every -variety, arum lilies, the white hanging bells of the -datura, the birdlike brightness of the strelitzia, the -gorgeous scarlet of the Indian shoe-flower, all flourishing -happily together. The very fountains bring thoughts -of Egypt and Greece—full as they are of waving globes -of feathery papyrus. There are bamboos from Japan; -eucalyptus or blue gum from Australia; oranges, lemons, -and bananas of the South; apples and pears from the -North; and stately groups of stone pines, a purely -Italian feature. Strange fruits are also to be found in -this dream garden; the strangest of all, one that rejoices -in the name of <i>Monstera deliciosa</i>. It has large thick -leaves, slit somewhat like a banana, flowers resembling -the wild arums of our English lanes magnified exceedingly, -the fruit a cross between a pine-apple and a cone -in appearance, and having a taste of the former mixed -with something quite its own.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width="703" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">BOUGAINVILLEA, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div> -<p>Other gardens give lovely “bits”: in one a long -border of arum lilies, growing as freely as Madonna -lilies in a cottage garden, backed by flames of montbretia, -and small queer aloes with paler flame-coloured -flowers edging the path before them. The great scarlet -aloe is the centre of many pictures, either solitary on a -terrace, with trees and the bay, or in an old garden -amongst cypresses, its red-hot pokers contrasting -brilliantly with the rich green, or, better still, perhaps -in masses on a long border under an open avenue of -olives on a hillside, seen in the glow of evening, standing -gemlike in the still blueness of sea and sky. Roses -may be seen everywhere, festooning walls and forming -hedges. The eye will rest with pleasure on some -Moorish doorway surrounded by goodly bushes of -pomegranate, their bright orange-red blossoms harmonising -with the tones of the old building and with -the violets; for here even they come into the picture, as -Algerian violets are not occupied modestly hiding under -their leaves, for they raise their heads proudly on long -stalks, carpeting the ground with their fine purple, and -the scent rises to the terrace far above them.</p> -<p>The old Moorish villas are all built on much the -same plan as the houses in the town, collections of -white cubes from without, and within a two storied -arcaded court, on to which the various rooms open. In -some there is also a women’s court, and occasionally a -garden court as well. One of the most beautiful of -these houses contains, under a glass let into one of the -walls, a most remarkable record, said to be the only -contemporary one of Christian slavery known to exist -in Algiers. It was discovered during some repairs -done by its first English owner, when a flake of plaster -<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span> -fell off and disclosed this writing roughly scratched as -if by a nail on a wet surface:—</p> -<p class="center">John Robson -<br />(wi)th my hand this 3rd day -<br />Jany. in the year -<br /><span class="ab1">1692.</span></p> -<p>This John Robson is known to have been released -and restored to his family and friends by William -Bowlett, who paid £11:2s. for his freedom—not a -very high value for an Englishman even in those days. -This same villa has a beautiful garden-court, which as -you walk into it makes you feel as if you stepped backwards -through the ages into a world of old romance, -solemn and stately; and as you look from the cool -shadow to the cloister arches and white twisted -columns covered with bright creepers, you hardly -realise that old tiles upon the wall, old red pavement -at your feet, trees laden with oranges, a fountain -covered with maiden-hair, and surrounded by a square -pool of water, like a mirror reflecting the papyrus -which grows in it, are the details that make up the -picture, so entirely do the stillness and the peace -throw their enchantment over all. Then with the -opening of the great doors comes a vision of sunlit -paths and brightest green, formal almost to stiffness -in its lines—the old Harem garden. Many of the -villas have beauties such as these, though few so perfect -as a whole; often only a doorway or a window remains -that still tells its tale of olden days.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p010.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="698" /> -<p class="caption">THE GARDEN COURT OF AN OLD MOORISH VILLA, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<p>The pride of Lower Mustapha is the Jardin d’Essai, -not properly a garden at all, not even a park, though -it is big enough for that. It is a home for numbers of -rare trees and shrubs of a more or less tropical character, -a sort of school where they are trained to stand -another climate, and from which some go forth and -travel again to northern lands; for it is said that the -culture of palm trees alone brings in at least £4000 a -year, and that most of those sold in London and Paris -come from this garden. India-rubber trees, bananas, -and oranges are on the useful market-garden side, and -to these might also be added its ostrich farm; but from -the scientific or artistic point of view usefulness is a -smaller thing than rarity and beauty. There are also -trees of the most rare kinds with imposing names to -rejoice the learned; and for the satisfaction of beauty -lovers, long avenues of palms of every type, cocoa -trees, quaint alleys of yuccas, and lightest and perhaps -most graceful of all, the bamboo. Then for a change, -just by crossing a road, there is a real oasis of ordinary -palms, making a delicious shade for the little tables of -two bright cafés; and from this spot, at the water’s -very edge, is a peep of old Algiers, the “white city,” -the harbour and the boats glowing in the soft afternoon -light, and reflected in the calm opalescent water.</p> -<p>Quite near to the Jardin d’Essai is another garden, -the Arab cemetery, very wild, and badly kept, its -interest lying not in its own beauty, but in the fact -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -that Friday after Friday all the year round it is the -place of pilgrimage of the Arab women. It contains -the tomb of a celebrated saint called Sidi Mohammed -Abder Rahman Bou Kobrin, who came at the end of the -eighteenth century from the Djurdjura mountains, and -founded a powerful sect or order, second only to that of -Sidi Okba. His body was brought to Algiers and -buried in the Koubba, but his followers in the wilds of -Kabylia became furious until they discovered that all -the time the body was still in its first resting-place as -well. Now all is quiet and calm once more, as a -wonder has been worked, so that henceforth he is Bou -Kobrin, the man of two tombs. At noon the gates -are closed to all men, and until six in the evening it -is crowded with women and children. Here they -come, in carriages and on foot, in big parties in special -omnibuses, veiled, mysterious forms; but once inside -they form laughing groups on the various family tombstones, -take off the veils that cover their faces, showing -glimpses of gay colours under the shrouding white. -Here they picnic and chat and pay each other visits, -and return with great interest the gaze of the European -women who come to see them. The Arab ladies of -Algiers live such secluded lives that this is often their -only opportunity of going out, and it is quite their only -chance of being free and unveiled out of their own -homes, so that naturally they make the most of their -time, and think as few sad thoughts as may be; so that -although we have seen tears and passionate kissing of -the tombs, and offerings of evergreens, the symbol of -immortality, smiles and sweet glances are much more -common. Some of them are really beautiful with their -dark eyes and heavily painted eyebrows, some most -surprisingly fair, and, though it is hardly polite to -mention it of such carefully veiled dames, some are as -surprisingly ugly. Often they talk a little French, and -though most of them are horrified and turn their backs -when they see a camera, sketching does not seem to be -half such a terror, and they smile, and point, and say -something that sounds like <i>m’lyeh</i>, and means pretty.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p011.jpg" alt="" width="722" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">FRIDAY AT THE CEMETERY, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<p>From cemeteries to tombs and shrines is a natural -step, and here, as in Italy, there are endless places of -pilgrimage. Mohammedan saints simply abound. In -this part of the world they go by the name of Marabout, -and the tomb-mosques built over their graves are -called Marabouts also—a most confusing arrangement, -so that it is quite a relief when Koubba is used as a -substitute in discussing tombs. These tombs are -mostly built on a very simple plan—a small cube surmounted -by a dome, the whole as white as frequent -whitewash can make it.</p> -<p>It is a delightful drive to the shrine of Sidi Noumann, -at Bouzareah, through some of the prettiest scenery in -the whole neighbourhood. Passing through Mustapha -Supérieur and reaching the Colonne Voirol on the top -of the hill, and then keeping at a high level along a -country road, almost English with its high hedges, -though most un-English in the glimpses that come -every now and then of Moorish villas, stone pines and -cypresses, with the deep blue sea on the one side, and on -<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span> -the other the rich colour of the plain. After passing -the busy little town of El Biar it is all real hill country, -up and down, and round through vineyards and cornfields, -smiling and prosperous, which bear witness to -the untiring industry of the <i>Colons</i> or Colonists. Year -by year the moorland is disappearing, larger and larger -tracts come under cultivation, till soon there will be -nothing but vines and corn as far as the eye can see, -the vines especially being an enormous success. Farmhouses -of European character nestle in hollows, or stand -well sheltered by pines or eucalyptus, and these buildings -contrast oddly with the Moorish houses, which -resemble forts. Sometimes both styles of architecture -are as mixed as the races who toil in these same fields -and vineyards. French, Italians, Spaniards, men from -the Balearic Isles, Moors and Kabyles, work together, -talking strange-sounding tongues, a sort of patois at -best, distinguished from each other by little touches in -their dress, mainly in their headgear, the size of their -hats, or its material, every sort of turban and handkerchief, -and, ruling over them all, a pith helmet in hot -weather. At last, after many turns and twists round -wooded, waterless coombes, the carriage reaches the -village of Bouzareah, and turning up a shady lane stops -at a small enclosure. Arab boys promptly appear and -insist on acting as guides, telling in very broken French -that here the great Saint was buried, and making -every one peep in to see the tomb itself in the dark -interior of the Koubba.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/p012.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="719" /> -<p class="caption">KOUBBA OF SIDI NOUMANN, BOUZAREAH</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<p>Another Marabout lives near -by, and there is a minaret and small mosque, another -tomb or so, and a well-house which almost looks like -one. Groups of minuscule palms, whose heads of -fan-shaped leaves seem too small for the size of their -trunks, throw flickering shadows over the white walls, -as the wind blows them to and fro. Outside the -sacred place lies wild moorland, broken by simple -stones, marking other graves scattered far and wide, -pale purple iris growing half-hidden amongst them. -Splendid aloes fringe the sides of a little lane which -separates the tomb of the saint from the wind-swept -lonely hill where his followers are buried—aloes whose -soft greyish-blue leaves form delicate contrast in -colour with the green of cactus and palm and the red -of the crumbling banks. In the evening the view is -beautiful from any part of this ridge, some 1300 feet -above the sea, though too panoramic perhaps for a -picture. Miles and miles of plain, shimmering in the -heat, tone after tone of rich colour fading gradually -into the blues and purples of the long range of -mountains which enclose it all, and stretch in a fine -curve far out into the sea, Djebel Chenoua stands out -dark and fine against the brilliance of the setting sun, -a scene beautiful as the Bay of Algiers itself. On a -clear day may be seen many places noted in ancient -times, such as the “tomb of the Christian,” supposed -to have been the great sepulchre of the Mauritanian -kings, built about 26 <span class="sc">B.C.</span>, a great circular building -standing on a hill, with a sort of pyramid on the top of -it, and with long passages and vaulted chambers within; -but it must have been ransacked in bygone times, for -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -when opened by modern explorers in 1866, nothing -remained but bare walls. You may see also Tipaza, -founded by the Emperor Claudian, and Cherchell, -originally a Phœnician colony, but later on known to -the Romans as Cæsarea, and to the Christians as the -place of martyrdom of St. Marcian and St. Arcadius.</p> -<p>Nearer on the sea-shore the French landed, and the -great battle which gave freedom to the seas and Algeria -to France was fought and won at Staouëli on the -14th June 1830, under the command of General de -Bourmont. Staouëli is now best known for its great -Trappist Monastery, another favourite place for picnics, -though it is a moot point whether it is better to do -a formal <i>maigre</i> lunch in the solemn room of the -monastery, or to escape from its shadow and feed on -forbidden things under the trees. The Trappist colony -is large and prosperous. The French Government gave -them a large grant of land, and they settled down soon -after the war, the foundation stone of the Abbey being -laid on shells found on the battlefield. The monks are -celebrated for the wines which they make and export -in great quantities.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/p013.jpg" alt="" width="692" height="999" /> -<p class="caption">STONE PINES, ALGIERS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div> -<p>These and many more are the sites pointed out with -eager fingers by the small Arabs, either from the little -burying-ground, or, still better, from the Observatory on -a higher point just beyond the stone <i>gourbis</i> of an Arab -village. One of the roads runs along a ridge between -two bays with water almost all round, and there are -many ways back to Algiers, winding down amongst -trees and villas. In fact driving, riding, walking, and -now motoring are a constant pleasure, for though the -main features of the sea and the <i>Sahel</i>, or great plain, -with its encircling mountains, are the foundation of each -view, the effects are constantly changing, and the views -from the Bois de Boulogne, the Château Hydra, the -village of Koubba, Notre Dame d’Afrique, and the -Casbah have all a distinct individual beauty notwithstanding -some sameness. Other reasons besides the -view take one to the two last. Notre Dame d’Afrique -itself stands finely on the top of a hill. It contains a -wonder-working black Madonna, and the walls are -covered with votive offerings of every sort. Over -the high altar is the unusual inscription, “Notre Dame -d’Afrique priez pour nous et pour les Musulmans.” But -it is the poetic service of the blessing of the sea which -draws multitudes up the steep hill on Sunday afternoon. -A procession crosses the terrace to the edge of the cliff, -where stands a cross to the memory of all those who -have been buried in deep waters. The priest wears a -funeral cope, and the realistic detail of a pall is not -forgotten. Then there are prayers and singing, and -holy water is scattered out towards the sea on all sides. -The whole is very simple and quiet, not a pageant at -all, but beautiful in the idea and in the surroundings, -city and sea seen through and over a mist of almond -blossom, white and pink—the emblem of hope, according -to the Mohammedans.</p> -<p>With the Casbah the attraction lies in its historic -interest and mingling memories—memories almost -ludicrous when we remember the episode of the fan: -<span class="pb" id="Page_32">32</span> -how the Dey in his anger used his to strike the French -Consul, forgetting that times had changed, and that it -was no longer possible to insult a European with -impunity, thus commencing the war which ended -so disastrously for himself and so well for France; -humiliating, when we think of the bargains driven -there for the freedom of Christian slaves; ghastly, as we -see the chain across the throne-room, where heads of -victims were once exposed after execution. Memories -of gallant knights toiling here as captives, and greatest -among them, as we reckon greatness nowadays, Don -Miguel de Cervantes, the author of <i>Don Quixote</i>. He -was made prisoner by the Corsairs after the battle of -Lepanto in 1575, and brought to Algiers with his -brother Rodrigo. Their father made every effort to -save them, but only succeeded in releasing the less -valuable Rodrigo. The Corsair captain considered -Don Miguel far too important to part with. He and -his friends made many dashing attempts to escape, -which were invariably discovered or betrayed, when -he always chivalrously took all the blame himself. In -1580, just as he was being sent in irons to Constantinople, -Father Juan Gil managed to effect his ransom -for the sum of a hundred pounds in English money -of the period.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/p014.jpg" alt="" width="681" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE RED ALOES</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<p>Bitter memories mostly, but redeemed from sadness -by the heroism of Christian slaves, and by stories such -as that of San Geronimo (or, to give him his right -title, the Venerable Geronimo), told by the Spanish -chronicler Hædo. He was an Arab child captured -by the Spaniards, baptized and brought up by the -Vicar-General at Oran. Later on he fell again into -the hands of his own people, who made the boy a -Mohammedan; but when he grew older he determined -to live and work for the Christian faith, so he returned -to Oran, became a soldier, and married. Then after -ten years, in 1569, he was unfortunately made prisoner -by pirates and carried to Algiers. The Mohammedans -were furious that one of their creed and race should -be a renegade, but no threats or persuasions had any -power to move him from his faith. By the Governor’s -command, he was buried alive in a block of concrete in -the walls of the “Fort des vingt-quatre heures,” his last -words being, “I am a Christian, and a Christian I will -die.” This happened on the 18th of September 1569, -and the story was long looked upon as a legend, but -has now been proved to be true by the discovery of the -skeleton in 1853, in the very situation where tradition -had always placed it. Those who care for such sights -may go to the Museum and see a cast of the body, -made from the original block in which he was buried; -a grim relic to be placed amongst Roman antiquities -and inscriptions. But the block itself, that “noble -sepulchre” as the old chronicler calls it, has now found -a fitting shrine in the Cathedral, where the bones of the -saint rest after his stern warfare, his faithfulness unto -death. The marble sarcophagus bears the inscription, -“Ossa venerabilis servi Dei Geronimo.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<h2 id="c3">CHAPTER III -<br /><span class="small">THE GATES OF THE DESERT</span></h2> -<p>During the winter on the coast of Algeria no one can -complain of a deadly monotony of cloudless skies or of -a too burning sun. There is no cause to grumble over -dazzling light, nor any reason to wish for smoke to veil -an ugly object in the landscape, for often the rain does -that—indeed, not content with merely veiling, it blots it -out entirely for a time, though in the end the sunshine is -sure to win. Yet truly the winter of 1903-1904 did -give an excuse to the grumblers, who had enough to do -in comparing notes on the number of inches in the rainfall, -in discussing their own woes, and worrying over -gloomy prophecies; for they could count fifty-five consecutive -days on which rain had fallen. Then the weather -brightened, and the sun came out for a while before the -clouds settled down and it all began over again.</p> -<p>This does not mean steady rain, night and day, -merely that rain fell at least once in every twenty-four -hours—a most unusual state of things. Two or three -weeks are to be expected, but this had never occurred -before, and for once it seemed reasonable to believe even -<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span> -the oldest inhabitant; for who would choose to come -winter after winter to such a scene, though for once in a -way it had its interest? For the rain is rain that can -be seen and heard. No gentle all-enwrapping mist, -when it is hard to tell whether drops fall or no. On -the contrary, it waked us at night with a noise that -seemed prodigious, torrents of water streaming down -roofs and terraces like diminutive waterfalls. Sometimes -in the evening whilst sitting cosily over a wood fire -there would be a sudden rush for the door to see if -anything unwonted was occurring, but with a cry of -“Only the weather again!” the little excitement would -subside.</p> -<p>Local genius, in the shape of gardeners both French -and Arab, put it all down to the moon, which each month -appeared sitting on its back. <i>Djegudé</i> as they called it. -The moon would not amend her wicked ways, and -month after month she continued <i>djegudé</i>, with at times -disastrous results.</p> -<p>The harm done was considerable. Roads, houses, -bridges and railways were washed away; many people lost -their lives; and in the mountain districts there were many -landslides. Nothing extraordinary happened in Algiers -itself, nothing so sensational as the story which is still -told (with how much truth it is difficult to say) of a -villa which, while its owners slept, slid down the hillside -at least a hundred yards, as they found to their amazement -on going out next morning and measuring the -track left behind. The villa is standing in its new -position to this day, and is not that sufficient proof? -Part of the hillside is said to be formed of a sort of sliding -clay, and in those parts of Mustapha land is sold -for a ridiculously small sum; but houses built there -have a habit of sliding a little or collapsing, so that, as a -rule, notwithstanding the most scientific building, it is -more comfortable and indeed cheaper in the end to pay -more and build on the rock.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig16"> -<img src="images/p015.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="774" /> -<p class="caption">THE GATES OF THE DESERT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_39">39</div> -<p>In consequence of all this, and of the tales of woe -which filled the papers, travellers were solemnly warned -by their friends before starting on a railway journey, -whether East or West, that though they might not be -fated to be carried away by a landslide, yet they would -almost certainly be forced to walk miles in the night -over precipitous paths (in the scantiest attire, if they -added to their folly by going in a sleeping-car), and that -they would have to try and sleep in impossible places, -with no food of any sort to sustain them. Travelling -was actually quite difficult owing to the railway lines -being washed away so often, and in some places the -damage done was so great that it was more than six -weeks before trains could run straight through again. -One adventure is worth telling, as it was such a wonderful -escape. It happened by daylight; if it can be called -daylight in a tunnel. A rock fell and blocked the line, -the train was just stopped in time to prevent a serious -accident, and the passengers waited two or three hours -in the dark. At last they were all moved into another -train on the other side, where they established themselves -only to find, after three minutes more waiting, that an -avalanche had just fallen ahead, so that had they not -<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span> -encountered the first obstacle, they must inevitably have -been swept away to the gulf below by the second. This -put them in better spirits for a weary scramble to comparative -comfort and safety.</p> -<p>However, the final result of the wet has been a -phenomenal harvest, with corn and wine in abundance. -The visitors may have suffered, but the colonists have -gained in the long run. Even the visitors did not have -such a bad time, for it was not really winter, but rather a -wet, rainy summer, with bursts of warmth and sunshine, -brightened by summer flowers and the singing of birds.</p> -<p>Still, on the whole, it seemed wiser to many of us to -make a dash for the desert instead of lingering to watch -the clouds roll up again and again in a place where the -dampness of the soil prevented any advantage being -taken of intervening hours of sunshine. Notwithstanding -all forebodings, our own journey was as uneventful, -dull, and wearisome as so long a journey can easily be. -The choice is given you of going by a train which crawls -all day, from about seven in the morning till seven at -night, and sleeping in a tiny inn at a bleak, bare station, -El Guerrah, with no town or village near it, or of doing -the same thing at night, and going straight on without a -change to your destination. We chose the latter on -both our visits, and the first time had an amusing experience. -The whole winter in Algiers had been fine, really -typical, and the beginning of March was hot,—warm -enough to wear summer muslins. Friendly warnings -had prepared us to take wraps for the colder atmosphere -of the mountain region; but what was our surprise -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -when morning dawned to find a snow landscape all -round us and snow falling steadily. When the train -stopped at El Guerrah for breakfast, the scene was -comical in the extreme. Every one had to get out and -wade through three inches of snow and slush to the -hotel on the other side of the station. Very few of the -passengers had any wraps or umbrellas, and most of -them had only the thinnest of shoes, so that it was a -damp and shivering company who crowded round the -fire, and tried to make the most of bad coffee, poor -bread, and impossible butter. Our cloaks and umbrellas -were objects of envy, which we in our turn felt towards -those provided with suitable boots. Now the inn and -breakfast are quite good, but then the whole effect, the -open wayside station, the snow-covered plain, the uninteresting -desolate hills, the slush and mud, the wet, cold -Arabs struggling with the luggage, the few passengers -growling and shivering, and exchanging condolences in -French, English, German, and Italian, made an odd -picture of the joys of travel, only to be thoroughly -enjoyed by people with a Mark Tapley spirit. As a -final touch, all the small luggage had been deposited in -the snow, and remained there for an hour, until the -other train came in, when it was hoisted into the carriages, -and put on the clean linen-covered seats, with the -result that a rapid thaw set in when the foot-warmers -arrived, so that a general pushing of bags and hold-alls -outside the window for a good scraping was the first -consideration, after which the drying of shoes on the -burning hot bottles proceeded gaily. For some hours -<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span> -longer the snow kept with us, but as we came towards -the desert it disappeared, and Biskra itself was warmer -than Algiers.</p> -<p>In 1904, notwithstanding the wet season, and that -we started a month earlier, there was no sudden change -of temperature. El Guerrah was as bright as it can ever -be, for at the best it is a desolate spot, even when later -on the plain is carpeted with flowers, orange and gold. -There is already a sense of loneliness, of wide spaces -unbroken by towns or villages; just a few houses here -and there, strung on the single line of railway like a -thread; a few stone <i>gourbis</i>, or native huts; then dark -Bedawin camps, flocks of sheep and goats, and now and -then a horseman or a camel.</p> -<p>For a long time the line skirts a salt lake, which at -times lives up to the worst that Pierre Loti says of such -places, “Morne, triste et désolé”; at others the surrounding -hills seem to grow in dignity, to glow in soft reds and -purples, rising straight from the still water, and mirrored -with the absolute fidelity of a Norwegian fjord, a haunting -stillness over all. Batna is the only town of much -importance passed, and already the hills are growing -wilder. Gradually they close in and excitement begins -to grow, for soon will come the first sight of the desert. -There is but little cultivation, the mountain-sides are -dry and barren, a few tamarinds grow along the sides of a -stream. Suddenly the jagged ridges of high mountains -block the way, like a veritable wall. Precipitous crags -of warm reddish colour, stern and rugged as the Dolomite -Peaks, rise without a touch of green, from low rolling -hills which are equally arid in character, or when the -gorge itself is reached, straight from the river-bed.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig17"> -<img src="images/p016.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">SPINNING</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<p>The French Settlement of El Kantara, if such a name -can be used for a handful of houses and a station, lies -just at the foot of the great wall, at a point where the -rift which forms the gorge is scarcely seen. Mountains -and rocks tower above the small low houses, crushing -into insignificance the attempts at cultivation, the few -palms and fruit trees and the treasured vegetable gardens. -The inn stands, as the last effort of civilisation, in the -face of the great barrier placed between the desert and -the Tell.</p> -<p>At the entrance of the gorge, spanning the noisy -rushing river, is a Roman bridge, which gives the place -its name of El Kantara. It is a single arch, much -restored, or rather rebuilt, under the second Napoleon. -The Romans had also a fortress here, known as Calcius -Herculis, and many traces of their occupation are still -found in the district.</p> -<p>The majority of travellers content themselves with -admiring as much of the ravine as the three tunnels -permit them to see; though it is quite impossible to -gain an adequate idea of the grandeur of the Gates of -the Desert by peering and craning out of the windows -of a train.</p> -<p>The few who know better, or who love less trodden -paths, are welcomed by a rush of eager Arab guides -as the carriage doors open. Happy the guide who -manages to secure a prize! He takes complete possession -of his victims and their belongings, puts them into -<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span> -a respectable omnibus worthy of a big town, drives with -them, or runs after them, to the little hotel, where he -superintends their choice of rooms, and from that -moment scarcely allows their steps to stray outside -without his sanction.</p> -<p>Vine trellises and a shady tree make the courtyard -gay, and brighten the Post Office opposite, whilst beds -of violets send up a delicious fragrance to the verandah -terrace on the first floor. The house is long and low, -with a wing over the stables, reached by an outside -staircase; the main building has a large covered terrace, -giving a wide, cool shadow. The rooms have windows -but no doors, so that every one has to come up the -steep staircase to the roof, and then wander round in -sociable fashion till he reaches his own room. Out -here in the shadow, with dazzling light beyond—light -reflected and intensified by the white road and the -yellowish rocks—one can sit and watch all the coming -and going that make the life of the little colony, or, -better still, the caravans that almost ceaselessly pass this -way. Strings of camels turn their supercilious faces -up as they pace along, their light, soft tread making -no sound on the dusty road. They bear heavy loads, -wrapped in sacking or camel’s-hair cloth, and carry -fodder and corn towards Biskra. Sometimes it is a -real caravan with tents and cooking utensils, women -and babies as well as men and boys, which swings past -with the same rhythmic stride. No longer a study in -browns, yellowish greys, and white, but brightened by -flashes of colour, the women’s gowns of blue or bright -<span class="pb" id="Page_45">45</span> -deep red, and the children’s orange and yellow. All -walk past with bare feet and stately movement, or -perch themselves in an apparently insecure fashion on -the top of their goods, and go swaying past into the -unknown.</p> -<p>But it is not enough to sit and watch, even though -ever and anon new incidents occur. The thirsty come -and wind the wheel that brings water from the well. -They step into the courtyard without a question, and -draw sufficient for their needs; then they smoke and -talk. This water is famous for its freshness and purity, -qualities usually absent in the desert. The great rocks -give shelter from the sun except during the middle of -the day, and, what is still more important, from the -dreaded sirocco, making it possible for French colonists -to live here in comparative comfort even in summer. -There is, however, something strange in this life, which -sets its impress on their faces—something either in the -isolation, the heat, or the absence of amusement, that -makes most of them grave and melancholy, taking from -them in many cases their natural French vivacity, and -giving instead a touch of the more serious, not the -laughing side of the Arab character. Not that this is a -rule without exceptions, for there are many—notably -the man who waits at this very hotel, who is as gay and -cheerful a person as it is possible to see. The French -talk Arabic, and the Arabs who have dealings with them -speak French. As usual there is a school for Arab -boys, to teach them useful knowledge, for this is one of -the features of the French colonisation; they introduce -<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span> -schools everywhere, supplying French masters, make -wonderful roads as well, and bring in post and telegraph, -though it is said that Arabic is not a language -that lends itself easily to telegraphic form.</p> -<p>The Arab boys are clever and quick, and soon pick -up enough to take them far afield. In the summer, as -they proudly tell you, it is “too hot” for them in -the desert, and they love to migrate to the coast and -work in the harbours at Bône or Bougie, and sometimes -even cross to France and manage to make a living at -Marseilles. Our boy at El Kantara, Mabrouk by -name, had done more. He was the one person in the -whole place who could speak English—not much, indeed, -but just enough to translate for those tourists who -were in the unhappy position of knowing no French. -He had been taken to England by an Englishman, in -charge of some Arab horses, and had spent a whole -summer there, working in his master’s house and running -errands for what he was pleased to call a “factor -boot,” which by his subsequent explanations we discovered -to mean a button factory. He was amusingly -conceited over his doings and acquirements, showing -his photograph taken with “me chum,” a telegraph -boy, the trim uniform and the flowing burnous looking -thoroughly out of place side by side, in a way that the -two grinning faces did not. His ideas on England and -its glories were at any rate original, for he was not -struck by either wet or cold; he was evidently made -much of, and thought our food a thing to talk a great -deal about. Some of his statements, such as, that in -England every one has breakfast at 6 o’clock and eats a -sort of pudding with sugar, are rather on a par with -those of a Belgian who once told us that English ladies -always breakfasted in bed, though certainly Mabrouk’s -theory promises better for an active nation. El Kantara -has been a favourite haunt of French artists for the -last few years, and many pictures painted here have -gained success in the Salon, so, naturally, Mabrouk -looked upon himself as a judge of art, and was prepared -to show all the best points of view.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig18"> -<img src="images/p017.jpg" alt="" width="704" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE RED VILLAGE, EL KANTARA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div> -<p>The first impression on walking through the gorge is -one of barren desolation and absolute dryness. Except at -noon, when the sun beats down into the ravine, there are -strong, cool shadows contrasting with the blaze of light. -The gorge itself is narrow, so that there is barely room -for the road above and the river beneath. It seems -a mere rift in the massive ridge, the perpendicular -walls of red rock are cut into fantastic shapes, pinnacles -and pillars growing more picturesque in form as the -further end is reached. All ideas of desolation are -instantly banished by the splendour of the sight that -meets the eye, as the sea of sand washes up as it were -to another sea of waving green. A long turn of the -road leads round to a bridge below, but Mabrouk -scrambles down a steep stony path, and with a warning -“Mind your headache,” disappears into a steep tunnel, -built to drain the road, but evidently looked upon by -the Arabs as a short cut made for their convenience, -as it saves half a mile or so of dusty highway.</p> -<p>From the bridge, a modern one, the scene is imposing, -<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span> -looking back into the shadows of the gorge where -the river leaps foaming over huge rocks, and where -groups of cleanly Arabs are busy washing their white -garments in its waters.</p> -<p>But if to look back is fine, to look forward is to -have the magic charm of an oasis revealed to you. The -blue river winds amongst the palms,—thousands upon -thousands of palms, which bend, sway, and toss their -feathery heads as the breeze passes over them. They -look green and soft against the wide sweep of sand and -stones, the red and yellow rocks of the huge range -behind that stretches east and west, and the other -mountain range that bounds the horizon with its purples -and blues. Such is the first sight of the desert as it -appears to the traveller coming through that majestic -gate. But if the gate is looked upon as the entrance -to the fertile lands of the plain, then the most beautiful -point is just below, amongst the stones and boulders of -the river-bed, where the craggy peaks look their best, -set in a frame of living green.</p> -<p>Across the bridge the road leads upward over the -barren plateau towards the “red” village, the river -screened from sight by the palms, and also by an intervening -hill, on which stands conspicuously the tomb-mosque -of a saint. The red village takes its name from -the colour of the soil used in its building, which instead -of being of the usual grey dusty hue is bright, almost -orange in tint, becoming really red at sunset.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig19"> -<img src="images/p018.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="477" /> -<p class="caption">ON THE EDGE OF THE DESERT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_49">49</div> -<p>In certain lights, the village suggests the ruins of -some old castle stretching out upon the waste on the -one side, and on the other descending, half-hidden -amongst the palms, to the edge of the cliff which overhangs -the river, the minaret of the mosque being only -just visible above the trees. Mud walls mark out -small unfruitful-looking fields, in which little grows -except masses of prickly pear, forming thick hedges in -every direction. As the men were hard at work, -digging and watering, it was evident that much was -expected in the future, and these were probably new -stretches of land in process of being reclaimed from the -desert.</p> -<p>Even within the walls there is the same suggestion -of a fortress: the walls are high, and seldom broken by -doors; windows in the accepted sense of the word are -rare—a few holes in the wall suffice to give air and light. -Another peculiar feature is the way some of the houses -are built across the streets, forming square, tunnel-like -passages exceeding dark after the glare. Mabrouk -threaded his way in and out, up and down through the -labyrinth of alleys, all rather lonely in the early -morning, left to a few old men crouching in sunny -corners, and to an old woman or two carrying water; -for El Kantara women, though they do work occasionally -in the gardens, and do some washing down by the -river, seem, as a rule, to keep as quietly within their -walls as if they were town-bred. The paths down to -the river wind through palm gardens, and are largely -at the mercy of the streams used for irrigation. These -are turned on and off by the simple method of putting -in a stone or a spadeful of earth, and thus diverted into -<span class="pb" id="Page_50">50</span> -new channels they often swamp the path to such a -degree that it is difficult to pick one’s way, the clay -becoming very slippery when wet. Every garden has -a right to a certain quantity of water each day, which -is carefully measured by time. Under the palms grow -many fruit trees, notably figs and apricots. Down in -the valley, across the artificial watercourse, out on to the -dry part of the river-bed, a very wilderness of stones -and small oleanders, blindingly white in the sunshine, -the village appears in a setting so different that it loses -all resemblance to its fellows in the Sahara or in Egypt, -and suggests old drawings seen long ago of places in -the tropics. Perched on the top of a cliff, the orange -tones of the soil repeat themselves in the walls; the -huts seem turret-like additions to the natural formation, -and form a curious foil for the few well-placed palms -and the delicate tints of some apricot trees in blossom; -behind this the deeply-fissured ridge stands sharply -defined against the sky.</p> -<p>There are three villages, the Red, the White, and -the Black, with imposing Arabic names, and each with -its special interest, making it quite amusing to poke -about and watch the life. If one is too lazy to walk, -and yet does not mind a good shaking over rather uneven -tracks, and turning a few slightly alarming corners,—alarming, -that is, to people unaccustomed to Eastern -roads,—it is possible and very pleasant to drive round -the oasis, making little detours on foot to see special -objects of interest, and particularly to stroll along the -edge of the cliff to enjoy the sight of the river and the -trees; for there is no lack of palms, considering there -are said to be over 90,000 of them.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig20"> -<img src="images/p019.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="708" /> -<p class="caption">CARDING WOOL</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_51">51</div> -<p>Mabrouk, notwithstanding his travels, gives the -oasis a wonderful character. “Every one has enough -and is content. The dates are good; fruit, corn, and -vegetables are plentiful; and the flocks and herds -prosper.” In short, an earthly Paradise! Not a -paradise suited to European tastes, perhaps, for who -would care to live in a windowless adobe hut, to sleep -on a mud floor wrapped in a burnous, or to live for -ever on cous-couss and dates, even though it all might -be rather fun for a change? The villagers are friendly -folk, and give pleasant greetings. The elder men utter -a sonorous blessing in Arabic, while the younger say -“Bon jour” fervently, and often like a chat to air their -French.</p> -<p>No one ever begs, or even looks expectant, though -they will walk with you along the road, telling of much -that is strange and interesting, and asking innumerable -questions. To show how kindly they are to each other -and to strangers, any man who was near at the time -would stand on guard over me whilst my boy trotted -off to get his dinner, holding an umbrella over my head -with great care if it was sunny, and would slip away -with a <i>’slama</i>, or good-bye, when the boy returned, -not even thinking of a reward.</p> -<p>But it is a different matter when it comes to painting -inside one of the huts. To paint a woman! Mabrouk -said he would take me to his uncle’s house in the white -village because I was “so nice a lady,” but that it -<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span> -would not have been possible had I unfortunately been -a man. It is rare to gain an advantage for such a -reason, but the privilege was not to be despised, so we -started off, my painting things carefully concealed -under his burnous. With infinite precaution, to avoid -meeting any of the men, and great care in looking out -to see that no one observed or followed us, we at last -arrived at a rough door in a high wall. He knocked -and talked, and at last after some fuss, the capturing of -barking dogs and shutting them up, we were admitted, -only to be confronted by one of the dreaded men, -who absolutely refused to let his young wife, whom -he evidently considered very beautiful, sit for me. -Happily he relented sufficiently to send for another -woman—to my mind far more attractive: tall, slender, -and graceful, and wearing her flowing cotton garments -as if she were a queen. He then disappeared to the -café, and we set to work in the courtyard, a corner of -which was swept clean for me. She stood calmly -spinning and looking down, intensely interested and -amused by my proceedings, which were watched and -sometimes interrupted by the various animals who -inhabited the place—a horse, a cow, goats, sheep, and -some fowls. Having safely disposed of the tyrannical -husband, the other woman began to fancy she would -like to be painted too, so long negotiations began in -Arabic, with the result that we were to come back in -the afternoon and she would card wool, as she had been -doing all the morning. Going back and coming again -were made into a delightful farce by the extreme -wariness displayed.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig21"> -<img src="images/p020.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="693" /> -<p class="caption">IN THE HEART OF AN OASIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_53">53</div> -<p>Nothing exciting happened after -all, but there was great pleasure for my boy, at any -rate in the exercise of his cleverness. Personally, I was -never quite certain whether it was all a game or not. -Some artists told me that in other places they had -managed to get into the interior of the houses by -expending a good bit of money, but then they may -not have seen the prettiest wife. Anyhow the younger -woman posed in the house, the horse was turned out -to make room, the gate was securely barred, and quiet -reigned. She was quite short and very fat, with a soft, -clear complexion, big eyes, and eyebrows touched up -with kohl. She wore a muslin dress wound about her -and kept on by a girdle and brooches, and she had -plenty of silver ornaments and charms. The elder -woman was dressed in printed cotton, obviously -from Manchester, but there was nothing crude in the -colour, and the floating garments had a most Oriental -appearance. There is no furniture in these dwellings,—just -a shelf, some hooks, a mill to grind the corn, -a few finely-shaped jars and pans, and a good many -coloured cloths and burnouses. Being hospitably -minded, they offered dried dates, corn and nuts in flat -plaited baskets, in the same kindly way that Mabrouk -himself would always bring a branch of some special -dates for me, insisting on their goodness, “for, see, the -date comes off and leaves the stone on the stalk”—to -his mind a sure sign of a perfect fruit. The open door -let in light and air, but otherwise there was only a -small square hole; the roof was supported by two square -<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span> -pillars. The sheep and goats trotted in and out all the -time, and so did the chickens, all perfectly happy and -at home. Both the women had charming smiles and -manners, curious though they were about every detail -of my dress and painting. They had not an idea of -being frightened by a camera, and posed proudly and -willingly. They became a little anxious as the afternoon -wore on; so after many farewells, blessings, and -good wishes, we slipped away in the same watchful, -mysterious fashion as before, but by another route.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_57">57</div> -<h2 id="c4">CHAPTER IV -<br /><span class="small">THE QUEEN OF THE DESERT</span></h2> -<p>On leaving the gorge of El Kantara, the train passes -straight out on to the desert, where it runs on a level -with the tops of the trees which rise from the oasis -below. The line itself, an unpretentious track, without -fence or protection of any kind, scarcely shows on the -sandy waste. The flocks and herds and the passing -Arabs are expected to look out for themselves.</p> -<p>Yet, however unassuming it may be, there is something -incongruous in the sight of a railway winding -through and round these mountain chains, crossing -wide stretches of undulating plain, and taking its -commonplace, everyday way into the land of mystery—the -Great Sahara.</p> -<p>At first it is hard to realise that this mystery still -exists, or that it can be felt by an ordinary mortal. -The crowded station differs from others of its kind in -this only, that there are, amongst those dignified, -white-robed figures, many more than usual whose dark -faces show plainly that a train is still an object of -wonder if not of dread.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_58">58</div> -<p>The mystery is not to be found in a hasty glance at -the modern town of Biskra, which, new as it is, has a -distinct character of its own, quite independent of its -setting, or of the numerous villages hidden among the -palms.</p> -<p>This does not seem to be caused by its military importance, -although this is considerable, as it is the key -of the desert, and the soldiers are many who throng its -streets. Nor is it the style of the buildings, for neither -is this in any wise remarkable. The streets, though -fairly wide, are straight, and the houses low—sometimes -of only one story. However, the majority have an -upper floor, either above an arcade, the lines of which -are rough and simple, or with little balconies gay with -many-coloured hangings. Naturally all the houses are -subject to the reign of whitewash, though not perhaps -to the usual extent.</p> -<p>The shady alleys of a well-kept garden form a -pleasant walk on the north side of the town, and there -is also a pretty gazelles’ garden, bright with mimosa -and hibiscus, where a grove overshadows the calm pool -of an Oriental fountain.</p> -<p>Probably the distinction of Biskra lies not so much -in its outward form, as in its being actually the one -place in Algeria where the antagonism between East -and West is most clearly seen.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig22"> -<img src="images/p021.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="708" /> -<p class="caption">IN THE MARKET-PLACE, BISKRA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_59">59</div> -<p>The limited size of the town, the absence of any -artificial divisions, the lack of contrast between old -town and new, for all is new alike, clean and well-kept, -the breadth of the few streets, all unite to make an -appropriate stage for nondescript characters to play -their part. The casino and the hotels are within a -stone’s throw of the market-place, which is the centre -of native life. Here the wild freedom of the desert -with its few needs and absolute simplicity is in touch -with the careful and elaborate luxury which the -Western world demands even in its moments of rest -and play.</p> -<p>The races mingle and confront each other at every -turn, and not the races only, but the different types of -each race, seen in strangely new guise by sheer force -of contrast under the brilliant African sun; for -Biskra is the gathering ground of a curious cosmopolitan -crowd, an assemblage so varied that it would -be hard to name a nation, however insignificant, without -its representative. It is the nameless spell cast -by the desert on her sons, and on those who move -within her borders, that draws hither this motley -multitude. But the spell which fascinates has also -power to repel. A few come and go finding no beauty, -seeing nothing but the monotony of sand, dust, and -palms, and are full of complaints, utterly impervious -to the glamour that holds so many in thrall.</p> -<p>The impression of variety and contrast felt in the -town is repeated and accentuated in the halls of the -hotel, when the French officers entertain the Bach -Agha, the Caïds, some important sheik, or an officer -of the Spahis. Their imposing figures, stately movements, -and courteous manners show to great advantage -in that gay scene. The soft folds of their white -<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span> -woollen or silken draperies, and the pure colour of the -brilliant red or tender blue of their fine cloth burnouses, -tell triumphantly against the subdued tints, the frills -and fluffiness of the modern gowns, or the stiff black -and white garments worn by their fellow-guests. Uniforms -are not so becoming to them. The dome-like -turban, bound with camel’s-hair or an embroidered -scarf, gives a peculiar pose, almost a stoop, to the head, -as it is worn with a white silk haïck tucked into a pale -blue zouave coat, while in their ordinary flowing robes -they look as upright as darts. Stars and orders, or -rows of medals on the outer burnous (they often wear -three or four), bear witness to what these men have -done already, or could do again. In the days when the -fortunes of France were low, her dangers and difficulties -great, the Bach Agha of the period stood firm with all -the tribes under his banner, no small help at that time. -It is for past loyalty as well as for present power that -the Chief of to-day holds his proud position.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig23"> -<img src="images/p022.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="389" /> -<p class="caption">EVENING ON THE SAHARA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_61">61</div> -<p>All this gaiety, noise, and confused talking, interesting -though they are, become wearisome in the end, and -then how good it is to escape to the quiet terrace -above. The house stands foursquare, built round a -quadrangle, or rather a garden of palms. The east -terrace over the arcades is delightful all day long, from -the moment when the first gleam of dawn shows behind -the dark mountains to that other moment, even more -beautiful, when the afterglow has faded and the still -brilliance of the moon comes in its stead. Flooded -with sunshine in the early morning the shadows soon -begin to creep across, and it is left a cool refuge in the -heat of the day. The outlook has not quite the effect -of indefinite space given by the view from the roof or -the top of the minaret, but there is a restful breadth -as well as much simplicity of line. Across the road, -beyond a strip of vegetable garden bordered by palms, -lies a broad stretch of sand, very light in colour, which -an occasional gleam or touch of blue reveals as the -river-bed. Mud banks on the further side form low -cliffs, and from them the plain extends to a curious -formation of broken mounds and moraine, to end finally -in a mountain range.</p> -<p>Monotonous, serene, ever changing yet always the -same, the sea itself has not more varying moods. Each -passing hour leaves its own impress on that receptive -stillness, which is enhanced but not disturbed by every -wind that blows and by each light cloud in the sky.</p> -<p>Towards evening, however, all who wish to feel the -enchantment of a sunset in the desert, mount to the -roof and pace its broad terrace, or climb the minaret -to learn somewhat of the immensity of the Sahara. -The town lies in a nest of green, in the midst of a vast, -barren, and arid plain, which is surrounded by a horseshoe -of mountains, lofty in the north, but diminishing -by degrees as the spurs run southward. To the south -also lies the oasis with its myriad palms. Beyond, -nothing but the waste, across which fall the long blue -shadows of evening; stretching still further southward, -a dead level, broken here and there by dark bands -of green or purple, that mark the distant oasis. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_62">62</span> -horizon disappears in pale amethyst melting into tender -blue, and above a delicate blush vanishing in unclouded -light. Magnificent sunsets are not to be seen every -night even at Biskra; there are evenings of cloud, grey -and misty, days when the sun goes down in wrath. -More often the fall of day brings cloudless radiance, -pure mellowness of light, which dies gradually away, to -be followed after an interval by a golden glow behind -the western ridge of mountain peaks, blue with the -exquisite blue so characteristic of Algeria. The glow -deepens to true orange, sometimes to a burning red, -and rays of light radiate from the vanished sun, leaving -pathways of delicate green between. Our Northern -atmosphere has its own beauties of mist and cloud, but -we miss this absolute transparent purity. With us the -gold loses itself in greys and purples on the horizon; -here the colour is crystal clear, and the jewel-like tints -vibrate as they pass imperceptibly from the red of the -ruby through all tones of topaz, amber, and palest -emerald to deepest amethyst. Spellbound in this -calm, self dies; there is no place for earthly trouble -under this luminous sky. Something of mystery and -sadness there is—a feeling of intense loneliness; but -over all there broods—unchanging, immutable—a spirit -of destiny, telling that what is written is written. To -some it seems a spirit of rest and faith; to the Arabs -it may have been the source of fatalism, the silence -checking the tendency to anxiety and care.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig24"> -<img src="images/p023.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="473" /> -<p class="caption">SUNSET</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_63">63</div> -<p>More uncommon than these calm afterglows are -those sunsets, when fleecy cloud-masses are piled one -above another, purple touched with fire, so that the -very gates of heaven seem to open and give a glimpse -of the glory beyond.</p> -<p>The glamour of the setting sun and of the afterglow -transforms the east as well as the west, staining the -mountain-sides a wondrous red, whilst the azure shadow -of the earth mounts slowly to veil the roseate sky -above. Once a feathery cloud-wreath soared in long -sweeping curves from the horizon to the zenith, the -strands of gossamer glowing with hues of rose, delicate -and opalescent, a cloud of phantasy in a world hardly -more real.</p> -<p>The common light of every day works other spells -by simpler means. The vibration of subtle colour is -gone, and in its stead there is the play of light and -shade, or rather of light upon light, for the men of these -desert tribes are clad almost entirely in white. The -poor wear a white gandourah, a long garment of wool -or cotton covered by one or more burnouses. The -wealthy bury their garments of richly coloured and -embroidered cloth, or even plush, under a multiplicity -of silk and woollen robes of the prevailing white. The -result is that white has here a value, a range of tone -not often seen. Every different texture has its own -peculiar tint of ivory, cream, or snow to distinguish -each from each, and from that other white of the rough -cast walls. And, as if that were not enough, age and -dirt lend their aid to the variety already produced by -texture and quality.</p> -<p>Touches of colour are rare, and these are given by -<span class="pb" id="Page_64">64</span> -the scarlet cloak of a Caïd, the blue of the Spahis, or -the more barbaric reds and blues worn by a Bedawin -woman. But of women there are few about. The -throng that fills the market-place consists mainly of -men and boys, busy buying and selling, seated on the -ground with their wares strewn round them. Piles -of oranges and lemons, vegetables of all familiar kinds, -great heaps of corn spread on cloths, layers of flat -cakes of bread arranged on trays, and most untempting -masses of pressed dates. The buyers also squat down -to examine their purchases, to talk and gesticulate; for -it takes much time and consideration to choose and -bargain for even a handful of oranges. There are -also stalls such as are seen in any continental town; -some full of cheap machine-made goods, others decked -with curious articles to meet the village needs. Discs -of red leather, carefully worked with colours and -glittering with gold, conceal under a flap small mirrors, -of which every woman wears one. Fans, like small -flags, as gay as the mirrors; baskets, generally saucer-shaped, -and of many colours; woven camel’s-hair belts, -barbaric harness and saddle-bags, dagger-like knives in -sheaths, beads and bracelets, and even stuffed lizards, -are temptingly displayed to view. Under the arches -are other shops and cafés, and everywhere are men, -either sitting idly in the sun, their hoods pulled over -their heads, or sleeping huddled up in their burnouses, -shapeless as sacks, hardly human at all. The more -dignified sit on carpets or matting under the arcades, -drinking their coffee quietly, or playing games of -draughts or dominoes with keen interest. One or -more are always watching if the game is good. Cafés -are everywhere, some provided with chairs and small -tables, but they are only popular with soldiers, Spahis and -the like. The carpeted dais or more humble matting -laid down in the road itself, attracts the true Bedawin.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig25"> -<img src="images/p024.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="635" /> -<p class="caption">THE FRUIT MARKET, BISKRA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_65">65</div> -<p>The only part of the town where white does not rule -and colour runs riot is the street of the dancing girls. -Hangings and draperies cover the green balconies with -rainbow hues, whilst the handsome, dark-eyed women, -with their heavily painted brows, rival each other in -their vividly brilliant silks. Their dress is an odd -mixture of the Oriental and European, after the fashion -of a comic opera, not at all beautiful but quite effective. -Especially so is the head-dress of skilfully knotted -silken kerchiefs, heavily interwoven with gold and -bound with silver chains, which also encircle the face, -the forehead being covered with many coins. The -women wear quantities of showy jewellery, but only -the chains and ear-rings have any style or character.</p> -<p>Occasionally the streets are gay with flags and -banners, as groups of men and children in bright array -start on a pilgrimage to some Marabout. All the feasts -begin in this way, with much beating of tom-toms and -weird music, for as there is rhythm it would be rude to -call it noise, as most people do at first. After a time, -the sadness and monotony make their own appeal, -expressing in another language, hard to understand and -perhaps a little vague, the power and feeling of the land.</p> -<p>Now and then a Marabout returns the compliment, -<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span> -and visits the town with two or three followers, bearing -banners of red and green, and a bowl to collect alms, -accompanied by the inevitable tom-tom. He makes a -slow progress through the street, the people hastening to -greet him, and often to kiss his hands or the hem of his -cloak. Some of these Marabouts are quite sane and -dignified, whilst others are half-witted, ragged creatures.</p> -<p>Reading aloud is another practice most popular here. -In the daytime a grave old man, book in hand, will -take his station at a street corner, and read to a number -of men sitting on the ground, and listening with rapt -attention to his words. The passers-by stand attentively -for a while, and generally end by joining the little circle. -In the evening at one of the cafés there will always be a -reader, a man with much dramatic power, who draws -large audiences, who gather round to hear tales from the -<i>Arabian Nights</i>.</p> -<p>This is quite a different affair to the ordinary storyteller, -who chants long passages from the life of -Mohammed accompanied by the sounds of his own tom-tom. -He will sit and play with a cloth spread in front -of him, looking like a living idol, and the women working -in their tents send little children with offerings of -bread or flour tied up in their veils, for veils are still -used in the near East for carrying treasures as they were -in the days of Ruth. The old man sits impassively -droning quietly on, neither heeding nor caring for the -groups of children who come and go, staring and listening -with wondering eyes. Odd little figures they are in -their trailing burnouses or bright-coloured shirts, the -boys seeming to have a partiality for yellow and orange, -while the boys and girls alike are toddling imitations of -their fathers and mothers. Only the smaller boys wear -a fez or cap and no turban. Nearly all go barefoot; it -is only the very well-to-do who wear yellow slippers, and -socks are still more uncommon.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig26"> -<img src="images/p025.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="683" /> -<p class="caption">THE STORY-TELLER</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div> -<p>If, as often happens, a boy wishes to go to France or -England, he will promise anxiously, as if it added greatly -to his future usefulness, “If you will take me with you -I will wear boots.” It is quite evident that the wearing -of boots is in itself considered a proof of progress, and -if it is possible to procure a pair however old, or a -ragged coat, men and boys alike will add them to their -own proper clothes and wear them proudly, quite -unaware of the painful effect.</p> -<p>That is one of the trials of Biskra, the degrading of -the native character and appearance by the example of -the lower class of the Moghrabi, or Westerners, as they -call strangers. Of course this happens everywhere, and -more’s the pity; but it has gone so far in some of the -larger towns like Algiers, that there are few of the old -families left, and it is now an almost European city with -a mixed population in the lower class. Here the Arabs -are only learning, but already they drink and beg, -bother and tout as guides, and even gamble. Night -after night, wealthy Arabs may be seen in the casino -playing “Petits chevaux” with stolid, immovable faces, -taking their gains and losses with equal indifference. -El Kantara may not be an earthly Paradise, but Biskra -is far enough from the age of innocence.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig27"> -<img src="images/p026.jpg" alt="" width="719" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">A VILLAGE STREET, BISKRA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_71">71</div> -<h2 id="c5">CHAPTER V -<br /><span class="small">LIFE ON AN OASIS</span></h2> -<p>Enthusiasm about a desert life comes quickly, so -perfect is the view from the roof; but disillusion -follows as easily, with the desire to explore in every -direction. Difficulties and drawbacks then begin to -appear; for this is not Egypt. Here are no rows of -big white donkeys and picturesque groups of smiling -boys waiting your pleasure. No dromedaries growl -and grumble as their riders mount, though now and -then some unwary tourists may be seen on pack-camels, -fondly imagining that they are learning the qualities of -a real ship of the desert. Even horses are rare and -hard to get. The concierge smiles and suggests a -carriage or a tram, for it is not given to every one to -enjoy long trudges over rough tracks or on dusty -paths. But a tram! Could anything be more unromantic? -Even a carriage hardly sounds better for -a voyage of discovery.</p> -<p>Finally, having decided that there is no help for it, -and that romance must be quite independent of such -details, some expedition is arranged, only to end perhaps -<span class="pb" id="Page_72">72</span> -in bitter disappointment. Instead of being greeted in -the morning by the expected sunshine, there is a downpour -of rain, which makes the roads a sea of mud and -quite impassable for days, leaving the roof the one dry -place available for a walk. For though the sun can -broil and scorch, there is no lack of rain; and rain in -the Sahara is almost more out of place than a tram, and -certainly far more depressing. The mud is of a depth -and stickiness quite unsurpassed, and those who dare its -dangers find progress slow, as they slide back nearly as -much as they advance.</p> -<p>Another drawback is wind. Icy wind from the -snow mountains, or hot wind with sand-storms from -the south. In a good season there is said to be wind -three days a week, but in a bad season, or during the -races, it blows daily.</p> -<p>Biskra races are the great excitement of the place -and of Algeria, and it is a superstition (founded on -fact) that whatever date is chosen for the great event, -it is sure to prove the windiest week in the year. This -sounds nothing to the unsophisticated, but to those who -know, it means misery.</p> -<p>A day may open in peace; the sun shines; there -is not a breath of air; it is warm—nay, hot. Ideal -weather. Breakfast is hurried through; such a day is -not to be wasted, an early start is made, and for the -first hour or two all goes well. Then comes a little -shivery chill; the sun is no longer as warm; the palms -rustle. In a few minutes the wind blows hard. Dust -rises in clouds, and everything disappears under that -<span class="pb" id="Page_73">73</span> -thick veil. The Arabs shrink and cower in corners, -their hoods over their faces covering mouth and nose. -Such a wind can last all day, the sun just visible as in a -London fog, only white not red. In fact, the dust -hangs in the air like mist, the mountains vanish completely, -and nearer objects are only dimly visible. It -is dense, luminous, horrible. In less than a minute -everything is lost under layers of dust. Dust drifts -through closed doors and windows, and makes little -heaps as snow does in a blizzard.</p> -<p>On ordinary windy days the dust is very trying, -and the dread of wind spoils many an exquisite day, as -the wicked habit it has of rising morning after morning -before 11 o’clock stops many pleasant plans. Still, -when compared with memories of fog and rain, cold -and slush, on the other side of the Mediterranean, -the gain is so great that the sand-storm is almost -agreeable.</p> -<p>The morning freshness has a quality in the desert -unfelt elsewhere—a purity, a crispness, a delicious sense -of invigoration that brings thoughts of the Engadine in -a fine August.</p> -<p>The first impulse is to go south, to leave the town -behind, and even the <i>village nègre</i> as the French call it, -though few are the blacks who dwell there, to go forth -beyond the monastery which Cardinal Lavigerie founded -for soldier-monks, Frères du Sahara, who were to fight, -preach, and abolish slavery, but who seem to have failed -in their mission, as their home is now a hospital. -Cardinal Lavigerie is held in special honour as is his -<span class="pb" id="Page_74">74</span> -due, and his statue stands looking towards the desert -he loved, in an open space near the gazelles’ garden.</p> -<p>Even the Chateau Landon, the show garden of the -oasis, must be left behind, though already, on the path -beneath the walls, the call of the desert is felt. Nothing -intervenes; the river-bed, wide and dry, is at your feet. -The river itself, an insignificant stream, is lost in the -expanse of sand and stones bounded by low cliffs of -ochre-tinted soil, from which rises an oasis bright and -fresh, but small. Beyond, nothing but infinite space, till -sky and desert meet in a blue so soft that the French -soldiers on their first coming cried, “The sea! the -sea!”</p> -<p>Further on one can wander in and out on mud -paths under the palms, listening to the soft murmur -of running water from the rills, which carry life and -refreshing moisture through the shady glades. From -this welcome shade the river-bed looks white and -dazzling, and whiter still the Koubba of a favourite -Marabout planted in its midst.</p> -<p>All is light yet full of colour; the very mountains -of the Aures are radiant with rose, and the long blue -shadows are full of light. Arabs come from under the -palms, and find their way to the river to wash and -stamp on their clothes in the bright sunshine. A man -and two small boys settle down beside a little stream -under the trees with a burnous, which they scrub all -over with soap, taking infinite pains to see that every -corner has its share. Then they trample on it, and -knead it with their feet till it is clean as clean can be; -then they stretch and pull it into shape ere they spread -it out to dry in the sun, whilst they enjoy a rest after -their labour. Women and children come also: the -women with bundles on their heads; the children moving -quickly, mere flashes of colour.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig28"> -<img src="images/p027.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="542" /> -<p class="caption">A RIVER OF THE SAHARA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_75">75</div> -<p>All the paths through the oasis and its seven villages -have charm, though not so much character as those of -El Kantara. Yet any mud dwellings shaded by palms -are sure to be quaint, and here there are little balconies -and curious windows of pierced holes arranged to form -primitive rose windows or triangles, while the decoration -on the minarets is almost elaborate. The palms, casting -their flickering shadows on the warm earth; the pools, -and the running water that threads a shining way -through all the gardens, and mirrors every leaf in its -calm shallows; the vivid green of the grass and growing -crops (barley is already in the ear); the blossom -lingering on the fruit trees; the tender colour of the -first young leaves of the fig;—all combine, with the -mud walls that bound each property, to make of every -moving figure a living picture.</p> -<p>The light falls with bewildering brilliance on the white -garments of the solemn, stately men as they emerge from -the cool, green shade into the golden sunlight. Patriarchs -ride slowly by; boys in ragged burnouses and -slender, bare legs, pipe to herds of energetic black goats. -Camels and donkeys with nothing visible but their legs, -so large are their burdens of palm branches or fodder, -brush the walls on either side as they pass along. Men -with similar loads, or carrying bunches of greens and -<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span> -carrots from market, watch groups of tiny children, who -squat in the dust keen on some mysterious game. -Women with unveiled faces and waving draperies of -vivid colour trail them slowly past, accompanied by a -pleasant jingle of silver anklets, chains and charms. -They carry their babies wrapped in their veils, low -down on their backs, in a clever fashion, though -now and then the queer mites, in their big hoods, -looking like gnomes, are perched on their mother’s -shoulders.</p> -<p>The palm gardens, of which their owners are -extremely proud, are often entered by the simple method -of pushing a palm log aside and creeping through a hole -in the wall. Wealth here is counted in palms, and every -tree is taxed. To encourage the French colonists only -a tax of five per cent is levied on their produce, while -the Arabs pay double, which the latter naturally think -very hard. Palms exact a great deal of attention. For -them exist all the schemes of irrigation, the artesian -wells, the sakkias, the endless opening and closing of the -channels of the watercourses; for a palm flourishes -only when it stands with its feet in water and its head in -the fires of heaven. The want of scorching sun is one -reason that dates do not ripen on the coast, though the -trees look healthy enough.</p> -<p>In the time of blossom, human fingers with infinite -care assist the insects in fertilising the female flowers -with pollen shaken from the ivory chalices of the male. -These flowers begin life in a sheath, which opens to -disclose a cascade or spray of slender stalks, thickly -sprinkled with pure carved ivory flowerets, which are -soon followed by the tiny growing dates.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig29"> -<img src="images/p028.jpg" alt="" width="790" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">A BISKRA WOMAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_77">77</div> -<p>A few vegetables and a little corn is all that grows -under the trees, which often shade picturesque family -groups camping for the day under shelter-huts built of -boughs and thatched with palm leaves. The mother in -all her glory tends the fire, watches the steaming pot of -cous-couss for the mid-day meal, or flits like a gorgeous -butterfly through the green mazes after her straying -babies. Her dress is the most graceful of all the native -costumes in this part of the world. It is nothing but a -long piece of very wide, soft muslin, or printed cotton, of -deep red, rose colour edged with green, or fine dark -blue; but it is wound round so cleverly that a girdle of -many colours at the hips and a couple of handsome -silver fibulæ at the neck are sufficient not only to keep -it on, but to form hanging sleeves and a multiplicity of -charming folds. The head-dress is wonderful. The -hair is plaited and braided with black wool, and arranged -squarely on either side of the small face, black silk -kerchiefs are woven in and out and over this mass, -twined with silver chains, and brightened by touches of -scarlet flowers and wool. Just over the forehead hangs -a large silver charm, the sacred hand of Fathma. The -ear-rings, as large as bracelets, are fastened through the -top of the ear, and are so heavy that they have to be -supported by chains or threads attached to the hair. -Round their necks they wear one or two necklaces of -coral, amber, or gold beads, and tiny silver hands. -They deck themselves also with many bracelets and -<span class="pb" id="Page_78">78</span> -anklets. These treasures are part of the wedding -portion, and represent all their worldly wealth. Their -white veils are twisted into the head-dress behind, and -fall in long folds to the ground, but are hardly ever used -to cover the face; for these Biskris, and the dwellers -in El Kantara, are descendants of the original inhabitants -of the country, the Berbers. They belong to the same -race as the tribes of Kabylia and of the Aures, and their -ways, characters, and language are not those of the -Arabs who invaded their land and drove most of them -back into their mountain strongholds. They are the -cause of many theories and much speculation. Early -writers consider them remnants of Christian Africa, -Romans and Vandals, and say in proof of their theory -that the Kabyles still keep Sunday as their day of prayer, -and that the cross which all the women bear tattooed on -their foreheads between their eyebrows, and many of -the men on their arms, or the palms of their hands, are -relics of the days when crosses were worn as tokens, -and exempted their wearers from some taxes. The -Touaregs also wear the cross and use it for the form of -their saddles. Modern knowledge or scepticism scorns -these ideas as pretty fables, and considers that the cross -in some form enters into all schemes of primitive decoration, -and interests itself far more in the fair complexion -of the race, the tendency to light hair and grey or blue -eyes, and above all in the methods of government which -point to some Germanic origin. At any rate the women -in all the Berber tribes have a better position, with far -more consideration and power, than in any place where -Arab blood prevails. These tribes also distinguish -themselves by their love of a settled home and by being -both clever and hardworking.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig30"> -<img src="images/p029.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="497" /> -<p class="caption">A NOMAD CAMP</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_79">79</div> -<p>Widows we were told have the special privilege of -feeding their sheep wherever they like. The animals -may browse on shrubs and trees, vegetables, corn or -fruit, without let or hindrance from their neighbours. -Consequently a widow’s lamb is fat and well-liking -while larger flocks starve, and on market day it will sell -for some six times the usual price.</p> -<p>Nomad or rather semi-nomad tribes abound in the -district, their low tents of striped camel’s-hair cloth -showing as dark patches on the desert or under the -trees. They often build a few walls, rough fences and -ovens, and settle almost permanently in one place, till -the grass is worn away in front of their tents. The -fields they cultivate stand high with corn and clover, -to feed the camels tethered near the camp or the herds -of goats that wander in and out at will. These nomads -dress like the other inhabitants of Biskra, but the -women wear more blue and less red, and have not -quite the same air of being always in full dress. The -tents are so low that the men dwarf them utterly, and -even the women, short as they are, must stoop to enter. -This matters little, as the life of the community is -passed in the open. All day long the grinding of the -mill may be heard, as the women take it in turns to -work together sitting in the dust. The cooking of the -cous-couss is done in a vessel hung on a tripod in true -picnic fashion—furniture there is none. A few carpets -<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span> -and hangings, the necessary pots and pans, and the mill -are all they need, so it is easy enough to strike tents -and march wherever the fancy moves them. A pretty -sight it is to see one of these caravans on the desert -or amongst the dunes, as it comes slowly out of the -distance, giving as it moves along just the touch of life -and colour that was needed by the scene. The sand-dunes -themselves are beautiful with a strange beauty -that harmonises with the wild, free life. The shifting -sands rise and fall in a succession of hills and hollows -covered with yellow, green, and grey scrub, and thousands -of bright yellow flowers, for all the world like the -Lincolnshire sand-hills or Saunton burrows; only that -here the dunes are immense, and stretch out not to the -sea, for that has gone, but to the mountains of the -Aures, or vanish only in the vast spaces of the Sahara.</p> -<p>On the way to Sidi Okba, where caravans are -frequent, we met a sad little procession—a few men -riding, one or two on foot, leading a camel with the -body of a man swathed and bound like a mummy, and -lying across the saddle. They came slowly, solemnly, -out of the mysterious distance and disappeared into it -again. As a soul passes so passed they.</p> -<p>The shrine of Sidi Okba is well worth seeing. The -drive across the desert alone repays the weariness caused -by jolting and shaking on a stony road. A real road it -is, and not a bad one, considering that it has to pass -over the river-bed and some very rough ground. -However, it is no satisfactory desert, though flat and -desolate enough, for everywhere there is green scrub -sufficient to feed camels and the goats of the nomads. -Here is neither a trackless wild nor a waterless waste, -though the water has the good taste to hide itself under -the ground or in the oases. The goal is visible from -the start as a dim purple line, yet there is no lack of interest -on the way, for the Djebel Ahmar-Kreddou and -the surrounding hills assume new forms as mile after -mile is left behind, and the colour comes and goes, -waxes and wanes.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig31"> -<img src="images/p030.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="695" /> -<p class="caption">CARAVAN ON THE SAHARA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_81">81</div> -<p>Though it is the religious capital of the Ziban and a -sacred place, the village of Sidi Okba is built, like its -neighbours, of sun-dried mud. But it owns a real -bazaar and a large market-place. The bazaar is winding -and irregular, shaded here and there by coarse -canvas, or matting, stretched on ropes and bars of wood. -Canvas of every shade of brown and ochre hangs -flapping idly in the breeze over the square, cavernous -shops, where, amongst strange, untempting wares, the -owners sit motionless, only their eyes awake and on the -watch. In other shops men work tirelessly at many -trades. Colour exists only in the vividly blue sky, in -the palms, and in a few scarlet handkerchiefs. The -bazaar and the crowds who surge through it harmonise -in tone. The nomads, with wild, dark faces and bare -legs, shout as they bargain, unconscious alike of the -din and turmoil and of their own value from a picturesque -standpoint. Here are no Europeans, no odd contrasts; -all is true, unspoilt. Men of the desert swarm in -hundreds, but scarcely a woman is to be seen except in -the market-place, where, in anticipation of a wedding to -<span class="pb" id="Page_82">82</span> -take place at night, rows of them sit near a wall, veiled, -and listening to passionate, triumphant music, whilst -their lords stroll about, or sit in groups as far from them -as possible.</p> -<p>The great warrior Sidi Okba, who, after conquering -Africa from Egypt to Tangiers, was killed in <span class="small">A.D.</span> 682 -by the Berbers, near Tehouda, now in ruins, a little to -the north, was buried by his followers in this place. -His tomb-mosque, the most ancient in Algeria, is -quaintly impressive. It is built of short columns, -roughly made and crudely painted, and its chief ornament -is a door from Tobna, which is curious both in -carving and in colour. The shrine is plain, and the -Tsabout or sarcophagus is covered by bright silks embroidered -with texts in Arabic. On one pillar is a -simple inscription, worthy of so great a man, written in -Cufic characters: <i>Hada Kobr Okba ibn Nafê rhamah -Allah</i>. (“This is the tomb of Okba, son of Nafê. -May God have mercy upon him.”)</p> -<p>Round the tomb and in the mosque men are always -praying, and from all the little chambers, nooks, and -corners comes the drone of voices; for they are full -of scholars old and young, who sit in groups round -their teachers, each with a worn board, on which is -written a portion of the Koran, grasped in his hands. -As they learn, they bend and rock and recite the lesson -in sing-song tones. All Arab schools betray their -whereabouts by this constant hum as of a gigantic hive.</p> -<p>Most of the neighbouring oases attract in different -ways, and there are many favourite points of view, such -as the Col de Sfa, which reveal new aspects of the Sahara -and the Aures.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig32"> -<img src="images/p031.jpg" alt="" width="701" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE BEGGING MARABOUT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div> -<p>The Arabs resort to Hammam Salahin, the Bath of -the Saints, a solitary building, with the usual arcades -and whitewash covering the hot springs, a scene of utter -desolation, volcanic and grim. Even the two small -clear lakes add no touch of beauty to the salt, sulphurous -waste. But it is amusing to see the women, -who bring great bundles on their heads, and who, after -the ceremonies of the bath, put on clean garments, and -then proceed to wash all sorts of brilliant rugs and -draperies in the hot water as it streams away, making -the wilderness gay by turning it into a drying-ground.</p> -<p>But, after all, the true barbaric fascination of desert -life is shown in the most striking fashion during the -races. The tribes come in from far and near, all in their -gala dress, and the fêtes begin, continue, and end with -processions and fantasias.</p> -<p>Strange processions, typically Eastern, a mixture of -splendour and squalor, pass and repass in the streets. -The Bach Agha in the place of honour, and the Caïds, -glorious in all their bravery of red and white, glittering -with gold embroidery and sparkling with orders and -medals, ride beautiful horses, which step proudly under -heavy trappings of gold. The details are as good as -the effect; the cloth and silk are of the finest, the high -boots of soft red leather.</p> -<p>The Sheikhs are almost as splendid, and the Spahis -in their white and blue both ride and look well. Each -Caïd is surrounded by his chiefs and Spahis bearing the -<span class="pb" id="Page_84">84</span> -banners of the tribe, and after these magnificent figures -follows a motley crew, men and horses alike gaunt and -poor-looking. They do their best to look imposing, -with guns and swords and fierce looks, and the horses -are decorated with long, trailing saddle-cloths of -gorgeous, faded silks, which almost sweep the ground, -as they move along. As they pass the centuries fade -away. This seems no pageant of the present day, but -a troop of freebooters starting on a foray in the Middle -Ages.</p> -<p>The first event of the races is the ride or drive in -the early morning through the villages of the oasis, -where every roof is crowded with women and children -gay as a bed of Iceland poppies, past the ruins of old -Biskra, straight along the great desert road, to see the -finish of the long-distance camel race.</p> -<p>The <i>Meharis</i> (riding dromedaries) had started from -Tougourt 140 miles to the south, and were expected to -appear about nine o’clock. Every vehicle and every -camera in Biskra was there, and crowds were already -waiting and watching, all eyes turned to the distant -south, though the shimmering heat made it difficult to -see far. At last in the distance appeared specks that -moved and grew, and in a moment the waiting was -over and the <i>Meharis</i> had come. One after another, -with long, easy strides, they swept past, their riders -still urging them forward with voice and hand. No -appearance of fatigue, no hint of the distance covered -in an incredibly short time, were apparent in the -bearing of either the Spahis or their untiring steeds. -Fit messengers they are to carry important tidings in -time of need, as the French officers showed by their -keen interest in the race.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig33"> -<img src="images/p032.jpg" alt="" width="702" height="1001" /> -<p class="caption">THE PALM VILLAGE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_85">85</div> -<p>The race-course at Biskra is as unusual in its frame -of palms as the sports that take place there. Nothing -could be more picturesque than the Bach Agha’s -procession as it winds along under the palms; nor -more beautiful than the groups into which in half-military -fashion it breaks to watch the races. The -crowds, who in their gala array encircle the course, vie -with the horsemen in decorative effect, whilst the -dancing girls outdo them all in sheer splendour of -texture and tint as they flutter round their tents.</p> -<p>Men of distant tribes in strange garb are also here: -some wearing head-dresses of waving plumes, like huge -busbys; another, one of the dreaded Touaregs, in dark -robes with dark turban, veiled, like a woman, in black -or intensely dark blue. These are masked men, fierce -and mysterious as the sun they contend with and the -desert they rule.</p> -<p>The races are good and the Arab horses fine, but -the excitement of novelty comes in with the fantasias. -These fantasias are mock fights or powder play; but -there is a method, a savage fierceness, a fiendish glee in -their performance that gives an uncomfortable thrill, -and a feeling that any trifle might turn play to earnest, -and a knowledge that if it did, the performers would -exult more than ever.</p> -<p>The Mozabites fight on foot. They are small, wiry -men, wearing full gandourahs as short as kilts, with -<span class="pb" id="Page_86">86</span> -curious fringes and tassels of camel’s-hair hanging from -their broad belts. They bind their haïcks loosely, and -arrange them to cover the lower part of their faces, the -usual precaution in their own torrid country far to the -south, beyond Laghouat. A warlike tribe, one of the -last to submit to France, they still cling to their independence -in religious matters, and are called in -consequence <i>Khammes</i>, or the fifth, because they are -outside the four recognised orders of Mohammedanism. -Industrious and hard-working, they travel far, and are -often shopkeepers in the large towns, but, for all that, to -them gunpowder is everything. Government allows a -certain amount yearly per man, and this can only be -obtained by order. All the same, great quantities are -made in secret all over the country, and the hiding-places -where work is done are rarely discovered, except -when, owing to unscientific methods, an explosion takes -place, killing several men. This is of constant occurrence, -it is said, but no one minds.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig34"> -<img src="images/p033.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="826" /> -<p class="caption">A MOZABITE FANTASIA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_87">87</div> -<p>The fantasia begins with shouts, then a rush -forward of eight or ten men, who turn and fire -their guns into the dusty ground a few feet ahead. -Before the smoke has cleared, another squad charges -and fires at the feet of the first party with shouts and -yells, and they toss their guns into the air, the tom-toms -and pipes play martial music, and the din is -deafening. Rush after rush follows, the squads prance -forward, fire, run back, reload and fire again. Excitement -grows and grows, the dust, smoke, and noise are -appalling, and the yells become more and more savage -as the smell of the powder maddens them. Then it is -that accidents often happen, for the guns are old, all of -them dating at least fifty years back, and many of them -being really antique. Some are quite elegant and are -inlaid with silver, but one man had a queer old weapon, -thick and short, that might have come from the Tower -of London. It took twice as long to load, and needed -an extra charge of powder. Its owner took care to -have the field to himself when he fired, and rejoiced -at the stunning report, loud as a cannon. The officers -said that each man fired off more than his year’s -allowance of powder before the entertainment was over. -If this was so, the secret factories had supplied them -with a large reserve, for the excitement was so great -that they went round the town after the procession, at -the close of the day, and gave another fantasia outside -the hotel, and continued firing at intervals far on into -the night.</p> -<p>The fantasia of the <i>Goums</i> is equally exciting and a -far prettier sight. The horses count for so much, even -without considering the dash and go of the riders, the -brilliant white of their robes, the rich colours of the -cloaks and saddle-cloths, the glitter of golden trappings, -and the flash of light on the drawn swords. It is a -ride past. But such a ride! One after another, the -horsemen come thundering down the course as fast as -their light steeds can gallop. They fly by, all their -draperies streaming in the wind, fire their guns, and -wave their swords, right and left hands or reins are -matter of no moment. Some take deliberate aim at -<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span> -the man in front, and ride as if to ride him down or die -in the attempt; others fire at the crowd, and some make -believe their enemies are at their feet.</p> -<p>Desert warfare is very real at such a moment, and it -requires no imagination to picture what it would be. -There is a concentration, a fierce determination in the -mimic fight, which tells its own tale, and suggests a foe, -hard to conquer or subdue because so absolutely fearless.</p> -<p>After this the camel races are tame, the movements -of the picked <i>Mehari</i> who raced from Tougourt are -too slow and stately in comparison with the tearing -gallop of the horses. Even the fact that one of them -is ridden by a Touareg in full array fails to make its -due impression, so much is every one under the spell of -speed and noise. The stealthy, quiet tread of the great -beasts, even their picturesque qualities, had less effect -than usual; they were finer on the desert, infinite space -and light and mystery behind them.</p> -<p>Other sports, amusing to watch, were held under the -shade of the mimosa in the gardens. The incongruity -between the dignified appearance and lithe grace of -the competitors and their childlike glee in each other’s -performances, made even walking along a greasy pole a -delightful comedy. Hearty laughter is not one of the -lost arts amongst the Arabs.</p> -<p>At night there are more processions, with Chinese -lanterns and torches, crackers, weird music and dances, -and the whole place is alive and gay, whilst noise reigns -triumphant.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig35"> -<img src="images/p034.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="693" /> -<p class="caption">STREET OF THE DANCING GIRLS, BISKRA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_89">89</div> -<p>The dancing is not limited to the Ouled Naïls, or -dancing girls; the men have a fine sword-dance that -looks like a serious duel. The music is stormy, -martial, passionate. The musicians shout, the women -scream to incite them to further fury. Their own war -cries are deafening. The correct finish is for one to be -conquered and disarmed, whereupon he shakes hands -with the victor; but it sometimes happens that the -excitement goes a little too far, and a bad cut brings -the play to an abrupt and more dramatic termination.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_93">93</div> -<h2 id="c6">CHAPTER VI -<br /><span class="small">TIMGAD</span></h2> -<p>“Leaving Biskra is like dying—a thing we must all get -through somehow,” an American lady wailed, partly -because she “just hated going,” but still more because -of her fate at being condemned to get up at the unearthly -hour of 5 <span class="sc">A.M.</span> to catch the first train.</p> -<p>This used to be the only train in the day, but now -matters have so far progressed that on three days in the -week a new one has been added as far as Batna, which -saves much tribulation on the part of those who wish to -see Timgad and cannot bear beginning their day with -the sun. Dawn, however, is as beautiful as sunset, so -that it is perhaps as well even for the lazy to be obliged -to see it sometimes.</p> -<p>The four or five hours on the backward journey -seem long. The keenness of excitement is wanting; -there are only the glimpse of El Kantara, and some -smiling greetings as the train passes through, to help -pass the time. In the afternoon it soon gets dark, and -the train goes crawling on slowly as if groping its way.</p> -<p>It is not possible to get up much enthusiasm until -<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span> -Batna is reached, for that is only a halting-place from -which the start will be made next day to the ruins of -the City of Timgad. Batna itself is nothing more than -a clean little town with wide streets and low houses, an -important military centre, with a large garrison and -barracks, which are perhaps the most striking buildings -in the place. There is no <i>quartier indigène</i>; little or -nothing to amuse or interest.</p> -<p>In consequence perhaps of this it is quite usual to -arrive by the early train, lunch at the station, then drive -straight out—a matter of three hours, “do” the ruins -with a rush, and return in the dark. But there is too -much to see and study for this to be satisfactory, except -for those who do not really care for antiquities at all. -It is certainly better to put up at Timgad for a night or -two, and make the best of the inn, which, though rough, -is new and perfectly clean, and that is more than can be -said for the more pretentious one at Batna.</p> -<p>It has always been our lot to arrive at Batna during -a spell of cold weather, of the sort that is a positive -surprise to those who expect continual warmth in the -far South. The cold is so great that it is almost a -penance to drive at all, and this even as late as the end -of March.</p> -<p>As the start has to be made fairly early, about eight -o’clock, it is rather chilly work. However, the situation -is thoroughly understood and prepared for. Foot-warmers, -so scalding that they are a comfort for the -three hours, and any amount of rugs are provided. -Every one looks as if starting for a sleigh drive, mere -<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span> -bundles as they are of cloaks and furs, their faces -covered with shawls, in a fashion which partakes of -both the African and the Arctic.</p> -<p>This is our experience, whilst others, both before and -after, felt the heat to an equally intense degree, for there -is no shelter, when once the town is left behind, from -either cold winds or broiling sun. Nothing is to be -seen on either side but the wide, undulating plains, -cultivated more or less at first, but later on growing -wilder and wilder.</p> -<p>Our last visit was after a heavy snowfall, the countryside -flooded with sunshine, sky and cloud, mountain and -plain, dazzlingly and intolerably bright. The snow, -though only a couple of inches deep on the road, was -twice that number of feet in the drifts; the sheep and -the Arab shepherds looking thoroughly out of place as -well as miserable, their woollen garments and fleeces -forming a brown and dingy contrast to the pure whiteness. -As a snow landscape the scene was charming, the -mountains of the Aures gaining much in dignity from -their white robes. As a rule it must be owned that the -drive is a trifle monotonous, notwithstanding the space -and width and the sense of air and freedom. At first -the soldiers exercising their horses, and the groups of -Arabs coming in to town to do their marketing, provide -some interest. Then Lambessa becomes visible, the -Prætorium rising like a castle from amongst the trees. -The modern village consists of barracks and a few -houses and cafés, but the ruins of the ancient Lambæsis -are scattered far and wide. Formerly, it seems to have -<span class="pb" id="Page_96">96</span> -been a military station, the headquarters of the third -Augustan Legion. Perhaps this is the reason that the -ruins have not much artistic value, with the exception -of the peculiar massive structure called the Prætorium, -which stands square and upright, in solitary dignity, -amongst ruins and fallen columns on the bare paved -square that was once the Forum.</p> -<p>Glimpses of walls and triumphal arches show among -the olives and fruit trees of the farms, as the long, curving -road sweeps up the hill out of the valley and on to the -wold. The heat of the sun melts the snow so rapidly -that the rich dark browns of the soil begin to make a -restful contrast with the prevailing whiteness. For -miles and miles the horses trot quietly on, passing only -one or two houses and a few Bedawin tents on the way, -then suddenly in the distance, set among the hills, under -a great range of snow peaks, are seen two houses, some -ruined pillars, and an arch. Timgad at last!</p> -<p>Desolation itself: not a tree, hardly a touch of green, -where once all was forest; nothing but the inn, plain and -uninteresting as a house from a child’s Noah’s Ark! the -group of buildings and shanties which form the Museum, -and a dwelling for the <i>Directeur</i> who superintends the -excavations.</p> -<p>The ancient city of Tamugadi, or Thamagas, called -also Thanutada by Ptolemy, was finely situated on rising -ground with a wide outlook over the now barren wold, -whose browns and reds, blending with the soft blues -and purples of the hills, make a beautiful background -to the pale gleaming of the slender pillars still left -upright. The town was never very large, but was -important and much mentioned in history. There -are inscriptions in the Forum which tell of the 30th -Legion Ulpia, and of the victories of Trajan over the -Parthians.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig36"> -<img src="images/p035.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="691" /> -<p class="caption">THE ARCH OF TRAJAN, TIMGAD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_97">97</div> -<p>The foundation stone was laid by Lucius Munatius -Gallus in the reign of Trajan <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 100. The building -was rapidly carried out according to a definite prearranged -plan, and shows plainly that the Romans -would not tolerate any temporary buildings or poor -craftsmen even in their most distant colonies, but that -they required both solid workmanship and a certain -measure of magnificence in all that they undertook. -The city was built thirty-six years after the great fire in -Rome in the days of Nero. The consequences of that -fire, and of the new ideas for avoiding future conflagrations -mentioned by Tacitus, were here carried into -effect by building all the more considerable houses in -a detached form with a clear space all round them. -This is one of the remarkable differences between -Timgad and its rival Pompeii. Its later history is full -of sad tales of religious disputes and much fighting in -the fourth century. The head of the Donatists, Bishop -Optatus, who persecuted the orthodox with great -cruelty, joined Count Gildon (under whose sway Africa -trembled for ten years) in his revolt against the Emperor -Honorius. They were both overthrown, the Bishop -was taken prisoner, and suffered in his turn, ending his -days in prison. St. Augustine often alludes to Count -Gildon and his terrible doings.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_98">98</div> -<p>In <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 535 the city was already in ruins, but later -on the citadel was restored, and at the time of the Arab -invasion was evidently in Christian hands, for the ruins -of a church built in <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 646 still remain. The end of -the city came with the close of the seventh century, -when it must have been taken by force, sacked, and -burned, as so many of the buildings and even the soil -show traces of fire.</p> -<p>However, the attraction of Timgad does not lie so -much in its history as in the beauty of the ruins that -remain, and in the interest of comparing with Pompeii -another and larger city—a city more important and as -perfectly preserved, and now, thanks to the excavations, -spread open like a book.</p> -<p>Not that the excavations are at all complete even -now, for nearly two-thirds of the city are still untouched, -though the work was begun as long ago as 1880, and -the French Government allows a considerable sum, -£1500 to £2000, yearly for the purpose. Under the -circumstances it is strange that these, the finest ruins in -Algeria, should have been almost unknown until quite -recently. The older travellers, Bruce and Shaw, wrote -much on the subject, and the former left some splendid -drawings of the ruins. Most modern writers, however, -up to 1890, content themselves with a visit to the comparatively -unimportant Lambessa, and ignore Timgad -altogether.</p> -<p>The French even had so little notion of its existence, -that an old French General told us that when he was -quartered at Batna some thirty years ago no one had -<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span> -ever heard of the ruins, and that he himself had noticed -nothing in his rides, though he had scoured the country -for miles round. His interest and excitement now -showed that this was not the result of indifference to -things antique, but simply want of knowledge. The -odd part of the whole affair is that the triumphal arch -must always have been a conspicuous object, and not -easily overlooked like the half-buried columns which -scarcely rise above the ground on the unexcavated -portions of the hillside.</p> -<p>The pride of the place is that it is not a “lath and -plaster” city of pleasure, like Pompeii, but a solid, -business-like town, built of stone and marble, where -nothing inferior to good brick-work has been found. -On the other hand, the colonists of North Africa could -not be expected to rival the luxurious citizens of -Pompeii in their collection of gems and works of art, -exquisite bronzes and sculpture, and delicate frescoes. -The fate of the two cities was so different, that even -supposing Timgad to have possessed as rich a store of -treasures, it was not possible for many to remain in the -ruins after much fighting and looting.</p> -<p>Consequently the statues found are not of the -highest order, and the Museum does not contain many -wonders. In mosaics alone it is rich: a great many -have been found in perfect preservation and very fine. -They consist not only of geometric patterns, but of -large and important subject-pieces with colossal figures, -and each year more and finer mosaics are added to the -collection. When found, they are carefully taken up -<span class="pb" id="Page_100">100</span> -and placed under shelter in the Museum buildings to -save them from the spoiler.</p> -<p>The main entrance is through a gate in a rough -paling, but this fence is only a farce, put there to guide -tourists to the Museum, as it does not extend round the -ruins, which are quite unprotected on the further side.</p> -<p>Opposite the Museum stand the ruins of a basilica, -and a few steps farther up the well-paved street are -the graceful columns of the so-called <i>Salle de reunion</i>, -where, amongst many Roman capitals lying on the -ground, is one of Byzantine origin.</p> -<p>This street ascends to the Forum, where it is crossed -by another, the main thoroughfare, the <i>via Decumanus -Maximus</i>, leading to the Arch of Trajan and the -market. Evidently the traffic here was far heavier than -in other parts of the city, as the ruts in the pavement -are so deeply worn. There are no stepping-stones as -at Pompeii, but the paving of all the streets is still in -such good condition that carriages can be driven through -them all.</p> -<p>The water-supply and the many fountains, as well -as the whole system of drainage, are very elaborate and -carefully planned. The sewers are indeed so large that -it is possible to walk through them, and in many cases -without even bending the head.</p> -<p>The spacious and stately Forum seems to have been -surrounded by a colonnade double towards the <i>via -Decumanus Maximus</i>, with a temple at one end. Many -of the pillars are still standing, and others have been -replaced on their ancient bases. The long distance -between the columns, especially on the east and south -sides, show clearly that the architraves that surmounted -them were of wood. The Forum was paved with great -flagstones, but a large portion is now missing. Well-preserved -and perfect inscriptions are set up round the -Forum in front of the pillars.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig37"> -<img src="images/p036.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="530" /> -<p class="caption">THE FORUM, TIMGAD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_101">101</div> -<p>The theatre was a fine one, capable of holding in its -seats, porticoes, and galleries some 4000 spectators. -It is in good preservation, but not peculiar in any way.</p> -<p>One of the best views is from the hill just above the -Auditorium. The city unfolds itself, disclosing all the -intricacies of its former life—the wide open space of the -Forum, the great temples and baths, the fine arch, some -handsome houses, the narrow streets, and the small -dwellings huddled together in the poor quarters. As -at Pompeii, there is the curious effect of a town with -the upper portion sliced off by a giant’s hand; but here -it is not so marked, for many of the buildings have -escaped more or less—some even are untouched, and -the pillars are often erect and complete, several having -been replaced during the excavations.</p> -<p>Timgad has some unusual features. In a house -between the Forum and the theatre is an elegant atrium -with ten columns, having a central fountain or well -surrounded at some little distance by semicircular flower-boxes -of marble, charming in design, and said to be -unique. The market, again, is quite unusual, and has -been described as an “archæological revelation,” no such -ancient municipal mart being known in Africa. It lies -beyond the Arch of Trajan, and the entrance was -<span class="pb" id="Page_102">102</span> -through a low portal, the Chalcidicum. The market -was of a fair size, and, like the Forum, well paved—a -sort of colonnade running all round, with square cells -between the columns. These cells or stalls had counters -formed by thick slabs of stone. To enter the shop the -owner had to stoop under the counter—an arrangement -that is copied in most Oriental bazaars to this day. -The place is so perfect that it does not require much -thought to see how well arranged and picturesque this -old-world market-place must once have been. And to -assist in the process, dishes, vases, amphoræ, and even -balances have been found on the spot. Flour-mills of -an unwonted form are found in many houses. There -are numerous wine shops but more fountains, one of -particular grace having been lately dug out in a new -district beyond the market.</p> -<p>The baths are remarkable for their splendour and -the perfection of the arrangements for heating. They -were decorated with fine mosaics in geometric patterns, -and also between the columns of the gallery with -designs of figures and animals. A good many of these -mosaics are still left in their places, but are carefully -covered over with a thin layer of soil to prevent theft -or damage. On great occasions, such as the visit of the -President, this is swept away, but ordinary mortals have -to content themselves with glimpses of small portions -of the pavement that the foreman scrapes clear with his -foot. There were formerly several baths, and at one -time as many as seven Christian basilicas.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig38"> -<img src="images/p037.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="679" /> -<p class="caption">MARKET DAY, TIMGAD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_103">103</div> -<p>Of the temples the most imposing was, and is, even -in its ruins, that of Jupiter Capitolinus. It stands on -a hill, the highest point in the city. Two columns with -Corinthian capitals are still standing, but, to judge by -the immense quantity of debris of marbles of all colours -found in the <i>cella</i>, it must have been truly magnificent. -The marble is supposed to have been brought from -Mahouna, near Guelma.</p> -<p>The triumphal arch, or Arch of Trajan, the finest -in Africa, is almost perfect, though slightly restored. -However, much cannot have been done, because there -is scarcely any difference between its condition now and -when drawn by Bruce. The arch has three openings, -and both sides are alike. It is built of warm golden -sandstone, and the beautiful fluted Corinthian columns -are of a stone so fine and white that it looks like -marble. The capitals, bases, and pilasters are of the -same stone. Over the two side gateways are niches -for statues, only one of which is left. The whole is -simple in design and beautiful in form and colour, -whilst from its position it becomes the key-note of all -views of the city.</p> -<p>In these days of her desolation and abandonment, -Timgad is only inhabited by the two or three Frenchmen -who superintend the Arabs in the work of excavation, -and by the family of the innkeeper, who have not -too much to do in feeding the travellers who appear -now and then in the middle of the day for a few hours. -So it is odd to awake one morning to find the whole -place alive with crowds of men, their mules and horses; -the ground in front of the inn and up to the Museum -<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span> -gates covered with small tents, and all the clamour and -bustle of a busy fair. The whole scene is changed as -by enchantment, and a new, vivid, noisy life intrudes -in dreams of bygone days. These Arabs, or rather -Berbers, come from far—from homes high up in the -distant hills or far out on the plains; these hills and -plains which look so inhospitable and wild, but in some -parts are really beautiful and both green and fertile. -There are amongst them wild men—rough, uncivilised, -and very dirty, but there are also Sheikhs and Caïds -who would look well anywhere. This weekly market -is to them a great institution and a delightful change, -but Timgad seems to look twice as solitary as before -when the crowds have melted away and the last white -robe has disappeared.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_107">107</div> -<h2 id="c7">CHAPTER VII -<br /><span class="small">CONSTANTINE</span></h2> -<p>Travellers’ tales and descriptions of Constantine are -full of such boundless admiration that they are really -little more than a chorus of applause and wonder. The -consequences are not quite what might be expected, -because it is impossible to believe that all this praise is -justified. Sober truth seems hidden by flights of fancy. -So the sceptical mind prepares itself and fears no disappointment -or disillusion, heedless of the fact that it is -the unexpected that always happens. In this case such -wisdom is wasted, for the situation of Constantine is -amazing beyond all expectation, and wholly beautiful.</p> -<p>In former times the city was apparently as picturesque -as its site, but this, alas! can no longer be said. -The rage for modern improvements has destroyed so -much, that it is only in nooks and corners that Oriental -architecture still lingers.</p> -<p>The original city of Cirta or Kirta, the capital of the -Numidian kings, has entirely disappeared, and no traces -are now left of the splendid palace of Syphax, or of the -fine buildings that Micipsa is said to have built here. -<span class="pb" id="Page_108">108</span> -Even the old name, signifying an isolated rock, has been -superseded by the later one of Constantine—a name that -even the poetic attempts at new derivations made by -the Arabs, such as Ksar-Tina, the castle of Queen Tina, -the castle of the fig tree, and so on, have failed to make -interesting.</p> -<p>Their own name for the city, as given by El Bekri, -namely, <i>Belad el Haoua</i>, sums up its individuality -perfectly. The single word <i>Haoua</i> means not only air, -but also ravine and passion. The city of air tells of its -height, over 2000 feet above the level of the sea. City -of the ravine is a title that suits it even better, for no -other city stands on a rock encircled on three sides by -a chasm instead of a moat; and history, starting with -the tragic tale of fair Sophonisba and her pathetic -speech (ere she drank the cup of poison sent her by -Masinissa) about “dying with more honour had she -not wedded at her funeral,” shows that passion has -never been lacking.</p> -<p>Roman rule has left a deeper impress, but soon there -will be little of the flourishing colony of Cirta Sittianorum, -founded by Julius Cæsar. There are many -inscriptions, among them one proving that Sallust, who -was once the Governor, possessed a vast domain.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig39"> -<img src="images/p038.jpg" alt="" width="716" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">GORGE OF THE ROUMEL, CONSTANTINE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_109">109</div> -<p>Of a fine aqueduct, built in the reign of Justinian, -only five arches remain, prettily situated among the -trees by the river. As for the ruins of the old bridge, -dating from the time of Constantine the Great, it would -probably be hard to say how much was truly Roman, -so often has it been restored. This bridge was double, -and built on the foundation of a natural arch; the upper -part, formed of huge blocks, carried the road, the lower -was purely ornamental. Shaw says it was indeed a -masterpiece of its kind, which makes its end the sadder. -A pier of the upper story gave way in 1857, and -as restoration was supposed to be impossible, heavy -artillery was used to batter it down. Now the chasm -is spanned by a useful but ugly iron erection, built -exactly above the ruins, and forming a pitiful contrast -between the old style and the new.</p> -<p>Few cities in the world have suffered so many -changes, for notwithstanding its apparently impregnable -position, Constantine has been besieged and taken no -less than eighty times—that is, if tradition can be trusted. -It escaped destruction under the Vandals because the -bishop in those days was a Donatist. The victorious -Belisarius found that no harm had been done, and even -the Arabs spared the ancient monuments, so that the -strain of these many sieges seems to have worked less -havoc than the fighting which took place during the -French conquest, when both besiegers and besieged -showed the greatest heroism. The old bridge was the -scene of the first fierce assault, when the French were -driven back in 1836. The successful attack in the -following year was made on the side of the isthmus, or -neck of land, which connects the rock with the mainland, -but even so the French lost heavily, General Damremont -and General Perrégaux being killed in the breach, and -officer after officer falling as he took command.</p> -<p>For many years afterwards the military government -<span class="pb" id="Page_110">110</span> -took no interest in preserving antiquities, and so they -were broken up, cut through and destroyed, to make -way for new buildings, for roads, and for the railway. -The greatest loss, perhaps, was the splendid triumphal -arch, which was still perfect in 1734; but temples, -arcades, vaults, porticoes and baths were all swept away -by the <i>Genie militaire</i> in its thirst for improvement. -The cisterns alone remain. They have been restored, -and still serve to hold the water-supply.</p> -<p>The new roads are worthy of the <i>Genie</i>, but the new -buildings are mostly blots on a beautiful landscape. -From almost every point hideous, bare-looking barracks -and many-storied modern houses crown the rock, and -stand on the very edge of the precipice, whilst the new -suburbs, springing up on the heights of Mansoura and -on the side of Koudiat-Aty are scarcely more attractive.</p> -<p>And yet, taking all these drawbacks into consideration, -the view from the bridge of El Kantara is astonishing. -The grandeur of the gorge dwarfs all man’s -works into insignificance, and the rocks tower with such -majesty over the river which they hide at their feet that -the houses above them pass almost unnoticed.</p> -<p>The ravine is narrow, not more than two hundred -feet across, though the summit of the crags is quite a -thousand feet above the river. The river Roumel -comes from the sunny country-side, from the woods -and fields, the poplars and the hedges, and plunges -suddenly into the shadow of the huge vertical cliffs, -twisting and winding in the dark depths on its way -round the city, losing itself at times in gloomy caverns -<span class="pb" id="Page_111">111</span> -and under natural arches, to emerge joyously beneath -the grim Sidi Rached, then to fling itself thundering -over the falls, out of the shadows at last, and into the -lovely valley once more.</p> -<p>From the town it is difficult to peer into the depths, -but on the other side a road follows the course of the -ravine for its whole length. The most picturesque -point is just opposite the tanneries, a delightful jumble -of old Moorish houses, with white or pale-blue walls, -and brown-tiled roofs built to withstand the snow and -torrential rains, and very like the roofs of Constantinople -in form and colour. The tanneries are perched on the -walls of rock so close to the edge of the precipice that -the Arabs when at work often fall over into the abyss, -though it is said that the devotees of <i>hachish</i> will -descend the same precipices, at the risk of breaking their -necks many times ere they reach the bottom, just to -meet together and smoke. It is giddy work to stand -on these heights and look down over the first green -slopes where hungry cows and goats find some foothold -in their search for food, in places on the verge of the -cliff where there is nothing but their own agility to -prevent their falling straight into the gulf below. The -boys on guard keep more wisely to the little footpath, -and shout their commands to the straying herds.</p> -<p>The Cornice road runs from the bridge down towards -the valley and the sea, and that is grand with Nature’s -dignity alone. As a mountain road it is fine also, after -the Swiss fashion, built round and tunnelled through -the rocks of Mansoura, following their curves, half-built -<span class="pb" id="Page_112">112</span> -out on supports, half-blasted out of the living -rock.</p> -<p>Opposite the tanneries the road runs on the top of -the cliffs, and the city stands on the same level on the -other side of the chasm; but here the road, though it is -still a considerable height above the river, is itself shut in -by walls of rock, so grim and forbidding that if tales of -dreadful deeds did not already abound, legends must -have been invented in their stead; for there is something -about the precipices of Sidi Rached which suggest -and invite horrors. So perhaps it is no wonder that the -Moors in barbarous times thought it a suitable place for -getting rid of criminals, or of the wives of whom they -were weary. It is, however, hard to believe that men -were ever cruel enough, not only to fling a beautiful -woman over a cliff by the Bey’s orders, but also, when -she had been saved as by a miracle by her clothes catching -midway on the rocks, to rescue her and then kill her -deliberately by some other form of torture.</p> -<p>At the French conquest the defenders retired, fighting, -to the Casbah, and there as a last resource tried to -fly from the hated infidel by means of ropes. But the -numbers were too great, the ropes broke, and hundreds -perished in the attempt, though it is thought that a few -may have escaped.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig40"> -<img src="images/p039.jpg" alt="" width="764" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">A GAME OF DRAUGHTS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_113">113</div> -<p>The <i>Chemin des touristes</i> is a path through the ravine, -winding up and down, and cut out of the rock, or built -upon it. It is a path full of surprises and fascination, -formed for a great part of staircases, and in most places -a strong railing is necessary. Near the bridge are seemingly -endless steps, and little bridges descend in uncanny -gloom into a huge cavern, where the path becomes a -balcony of wood over the river. Giddy steps, slippery -with damp, lead through the cave, a true <i>orrido</i>, and -then come wonderful effects of light and shade. The -light falls from above through four natural arches whose -height is over four hundred feet. From the bottom of -the gulf the sky seems far away, the city hides itself, -whilst the rocks appear more imposing than ever. -Artists might spend their days here, for subjects are -endless, but they must be impervious to chills, and have -no sense of smell or any fear of typhoid. Even in -winter to walk through the gorge and wonder at its -beauty is a penance for the nose, for it receives the -drainage of the tanneries and the town; but in late -spring or summer, when it would be a cool retreat, the -inhabitants say that the air is even more deadly.</p> -<p>Within the walls a superficial observer sees nothing -but steep and dirty French streets, and it is easy to walk -all over the town without ever finding the Arab quarters. -This does not mean that the whole place is not crowded -with <i>indigènes</i>—far from it, for it is a busy centre, in -which the province of Constantine does its shopping. -No town in Algeria is so laborious and active, the chief -trade being in shoes, saddlery, and burnouses. Town -Moors are in the minority, the streets being mostly -thronged by white-robed countrymen, of a rather dirty -type. The Arab women wear dismal grey haïcks, and -the young girls and Jewesses, who are strikingly handsome, -wear a coquettish cap, a cone of coloured velvet -<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span> -embroidered in gold. Sometimes it is covered by a -cunningly tied kerchief, but is often set like a flower on -the wearer’s dark locks, very much on one side of the -head. Arab chains of round, flat links, very large and -heavy, are used by the rich to keep on this cap, and big -ear-rings are also worn. The rest of the dress is usually -commonplace, though on Saturdays gay shawls and -gorgeous gowns of velvet and plush are popular.</p> -<p>What is left of the Arab town concealed behind the -modern houses is something like old Algiers. The -streets are even narrower and often as steep, but instead -of the cedar beams, the upper stories are built out on -inverted steps till they almost touch each other. Pillars -and capitals from Roman buildings fill corners, form -gateways, and have been used to build the mosques, -which are neither very important nor interesting. Up -a few steps on a small vine-covered terrace is the tomb -of a famous saint from Morocco, built partly of fragments -of Roman work. But the individual buildings -are nothing. It is the life, the bustle and confusion in the -streets, the tiled roofs, the pale-blue colour on the walls, -the odd-looking shops, the scarlet and blue hanging up -in the streets of the dyers, the glitter of the silver as -men crouch over their tiny fires making rough jewels, -the more delicate tones and rhythmic movements of those -who weave silks or belts, or twist soft yellow floss round -enormous winders—small details these, like fine threads -weaving one magic spell—the spell of the East.</p> -<p>Unconsciously this hovers over everything, giving -distinction to the Cathedral, once a mosque with the -<span class="pb" id="Page_115">115</span> -poetic title of Market of the Gazelles, by the old tiles and -the fine carving of the <i>mimbar</i>, or pulpit. Even the -Palace of the last Bey, really so new, built so quickly by -the simple method of pulling down other houses to -provide beautiful carving and richly coloured tiles, and -by stealing columns and capitals from temples, gains its -originality in the same way—the singularly naïve paintings -of battles and ships that decorate the walls helping -to give the last touch of apparent age and orientalism to -the many courts filled with orange and lemon trees.</p> -<p>Late in the spring Constantine should be delightful, -but, owing to its elevated situation in a mountainous -district, it is often too cold in the early part of the year -for those who come from the warmth and glow of the -desert. It is wintry, though the sun is bright and the -air clear, so that sketching in the chill shade of the -streets is out of the question. It is scarcely warm -enough even to enjoy drives, beautiful as is the countryside -and the views from the heights over hill and valley. -There are woods and charming dells, with here and -there a Roman ruin as an object for a walk, such as the -aqueduct or the baths of Sidi Meçid. This bracing -mountain air makes the climate splendid for the -colonists, for the extremes of heat and cold are much -the same as in their own beloved France, and to cheer -them on their way the Romans have left inscriptions -showing that many centenarians flourished here, and -though the women only managed to live a hundred -years, one man, Ælius by name, reached the age of one -hundred and five. Could anyone want more?</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_119">119</div> -<h2 id="c8">CHAPTER VIII -<br /><span class="small">ON THE WAY TO TUNIS</span></h2> -<p>The next stage on the long journey to Tunis is -Hammam Meskoutine, or the Accursed Baths. Now -the name alone ought to be sufficient to scare strangers -away, but it seems to have precisely the opposite effect. -Many, indeed, come for one night only, and linger on -from day to day, loth to leave a place so unusual and -attractive. The wayside station, half-hidden by graceful -eucalyptus trees, leads to no village, for the simple -reason that there is none—nothing but the baths, a farm -or two, and a few scattered <i>gourbis</i>.</p> -<p>There is not much to see. There are no fatiguing -sights, no amusements whatever—only a tranquil country, -a freshness of untrodden paths, a touch of the unknown -and exceptional in the hot springs and falls to give -piquancy to the surroundings. It is a country of soft -outlines, Greek in its simplicity, breathing rest and -peace. A land of hill and dale, rich pastures and many -trees, where glare, dust, and bustle are alike forgotten.</p> -<p>The uplands are covered by a cloud of grey-green -olives, some of them age-old trees, whose gnarled and -<span class="pb" id="Page_120">120</span> -twisted trunks look silvery against the deeper tones of -the leaves, the bright green of the long grass, and the -purple and blue of the mountains beyond. Under the -trees the flowers of the asphodel shine starlike, calm -fills the air, the flocks come and go, and the slender -figure of the white-clad shepherd who leads and watches -them, piping on his queer rustic flute, is in harmony -with the spirit of a half-unconscious dream of the days -of long ago.</p> -<p>Cutting across the smiling landscape like a scar is a -plateau of whitish grey rock, pools of boiling water and -clouds of steam, the region of the springs. The water -comes bubbling up through the grey crust, then flows -out over the surface with no fuss, no fountain, no spray. -Dense clouds of steam rise from these bubbling springs -in all directions, and also from the water as it falls over -the rocks down to the valley below. This water as it -cools leaves a thick white coating on whatever it touches, -thus raising in the course of ages a succession of terraces -now some two hundred feet high, resembling on a smaller -scale the once famous pink terraces in New Zealand. -These terraces are of every tone of yellow, orange, -russet and green, and are full of small cauldrons. Pouring -over these natural basins and mingling with these -many tints flows a steady stream, sometimes the rich -colour of thick cream, sometimes the snowy whiteness -of foam, but though airy in appearance, perfectly solid, -absolutely still. Only the water moves softly and the -steam rises ceaselessly—a wonder straight from the -under-world, a silent waterfall.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig41"> -<img src="images/p040.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="702" /> -<p class="caption">THE SILENT WATERFALL, HAMMAM MESKOUTINE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_121">121</div> -<p>And not silent alone, but carved in stone—a finished -work in one sense, yet ever changing; for the springs -are capricious, appearing now in one place, now in -another, and just now a new stream has started some -little preparations for terraces on its own account at the -side of the railway, and has even arranged to cross it. -The earth’s crust seems unpleasantly thin and crumbly, -and the heat is so great that it is well to be heedful and -walk warily, for water at a heat of 203° Fahrenheit is -too warm for comfort, even when it has cooled itself -somewhat on the rocks. The only other springs known -to be hotter than these are the springs of Las Trincheras -in South America and the Geysers of Iceland, but they -are only 3° and 5° warmer respectively.</p> -<p>It is amusing to watch the amount of cooking done -in the open—eggs and vegetables are put into a bubbling -pool, and anything else the <i>chef</i> thinks a good scalding -will improve. Hot water for baths is fetched in a -garden tank on wheels, and if any is wanted at odd -times a jug can always be dipped in a stream, for the -hotel is quite close to the falls. The old baths—some of -them Roman of course, for what did not the Romans -know?—are still in use, for these are the most celebrated -springs in Algeria; though Hammam R’hira, beautifully -situated in the mountains not far from Algiers, runs -them very close. The hotel is built on no conventional -plan; it is a series of low buildings set in the olive grove -with a wild garden in their midst. An Eastern garden -with a central fountain, surrounded by lemon and orange -trees, laden with golden fruit, shading fragments of -<span class="pb" id="Page_122">122</span> -Roman reliefs, capitals, and columns—an unwonted form -of museum and a pretty one. Pretty also are the rooms -in the long bungalow, with windows looking out on one -side on the flowery meadow under the olive trees, where -the steam from the falls can be seen in the distance. -Seen and smelt also, be it said, for there is much sulphur -in the water. The other window, which is also the -door, opens on to a rough colonnade and the garden. -Two more bungalows, and a house that shelters the -kitchen and its excellent <i>chef</i>, as well as the dining-room -and dull salon, complete the establishment. On warm -days the pleasant custom prevails of taking meals at -small tables under the deep shade of an immense sycamore—a -real open-air life, fresh and delightful—in fine -weather. We were not there in rain.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig42"> -<img src="images/p041.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="672" /> -<p class="caption">THE ARAB WEDDING, HAMMAM MESKOUTINE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_123">123</div> -<p>In a little hollow near the springs is a group of -curious cones, petrified like the falls, and now half-covered -by grass and shrubs. Exhausted and now -quite dry, the water having long since found new ways -to escape, these cones are scattered over the ground -for some distance. One special group, distinguished -both by its size and by the peculiar shapes of the pillars -of stone, has such terrors for the Arabs that they dare -not pass it at night, from their firm belief in the legend -which gave the place its name of the Accursed Baths. -For once there was a sheikh, a rich and powerful man, -who had one only sister, beautiful as a flower. He -loved her with an exceeding great love, and thought -her so supremely fair that no man could be found -worthy of her. He therefore determined to wed her -himself. The elders of the tribe arose and made loud -protestations, for as an Arab told me in his odd French, -“<i>Il est très défendu dans le Koran de marier avec sa -sœur.</i>” But the sheikh paid no heed to their exhortations -or their prayers, and caused those elders to be -beheaded before his tent door. Then he made a great -feast, but as the end of the marriage festivities drew -near, a great darkness overtook them, a tremendous -earthquake shook the earth, out of which came flames -of fire, and demons were seen abroad. Deafening -thunderclaps followed, and a storm raged mightily. -In that moment the accursed couple met their fate. -Ever since that dreadful night the whole wedding party -has stood there turned into stone: the Sheikh Ali and -his bride, Ourida; the Cadi who married them, and who -is known by his turban; the father and mother who -gave reluctant consent; all their friends and servants; -the musicians, the camel laden with bridal gifts, the -distant tents, even the cous-couss left over from the -feast. The wrath of God had fallen upon them because -they did not obey the laws of His prophet, and for -evermore the smoke of the fire ascends—a witness to all -men of the punishment that awaits the evil-doer.</p> -<p>The subterranean lake is an excuse for a lovely walk -over the hills. This lake only came into existence -about twenty years ago after a great storm. The earth -fell in with a tremendous crash, disclosing the entrance -to a cavern. From some hidden source water came -rushing in for about six weeks, and then suddenly -ceased. The cavern is dark as night, even in the afternoon -<span class="pb" id="Page_124">124</span> -when the sun shines on the opening; the entrance -is steep, and very slippery; the lake lies far below, the -dark vault looking like the gate of the under-world. -Arab women bring piles of brushwood, and with bare -feet descend easily to make a flare at the water’s edge. -The light is weird and unearthly, the moving figures -suggest witches, the water glimmers dimly, reflecting -the flames as they leap up, and accentuating the gloom -and vastness as they die down again.</p> -<p>One of the women was beautiful, her colouring was -of the North, and the moon of her fair face was surmounted -by a crescent moon of white linen. At least -this veil, stretched over a frame or cap, should have been -white, but was, in fact, sadly dirty; the <i>gourbi</i> they lived -in was even worse. It was built of stone, roughly -thatched, and surrounded by a wall to form a sheep-pen. -The ground within and without was trodden into -mud. Many of the animals shared the hut with the -family, who seemed to have scarcely any possessions, -and who, had it not been for their beauty, would have -seemed lower in the scale of life than their own flocks.</p> -<p>The joyous rush of a motor car on a good road is -no bad antidote to overmuch strolling in flowery meads -or lounging under trees. Ancient ruins and motors -sound incongruous, but, after all, surely the Romans -would have revelled in the sport, and the fear of -demons would scarcely have terrified them as it would -the men of the Middle Ages, or the Arabs of the present -day, whose ways made the drive to Tibilis amusing. -The road twists and curves round the hills far above -<span class="pb" id="Page_125">125</span> -the clear stream, and as the motor with much hooting -rounded the endless corners, Arabs rushed up steep -banks out of reach of the monster, pulled their animals -into shelter by main force, or covered their horses’ -heads with their own burnouses. These were those -who knew and understood. Those who did not, paid -no heed to the coming of the “Turnobil,” and the -chauffeur had to creep slowly and carefully past them. -Others again climbed to points of vantage and shouted, -and those shouts were not blessings on our progress, -whilst a few naughty boys indulged in throwing stones -which did no damage.</p> -<p>The ruins of Tibilis, now Announa (found by -General Creuly in 1856), are finely situated on a hill, -so the last part of the journey must be done on foot. -The path, when it exists, is only to be avoided, so stony -is it and rough, and also swampy in places. The -distance is nothing, but the way seems long from its -steepness and the scorching sun. It runs first downhill -to a brook which it crosses by a bridge of slippery -planks, then up a steep brae, and along a valley, when -the toil is ended by a final scramble to the top. Here -on a bare brown hill are a few weather-beaten trees, -leafless and desolate, and all that remains of the ancient -city—a stretch of paved road, a simple triumphal arch, -one of the town gates, two or three arches, a Christian -basilica, a few fallen columns, and traces of many buildings, -including an amphitheatre.</p> -<p>A last gleam of sunshine touched the arch to beauty, -then storm-clouds gathered on the neighbouring heights, -<span class="pb" id="Page_126">126</span> -a bitter wind blew fiercely, the weather by its gloom -emphasised the long-forgotten loneliness of the place, -once sufficiently important to give its name of Aquæ -Tibilitanæ to the waters of Hammam Meskoutine, and -now neglected, visited only by a few out of the many -drawn to the baths by the quaintness of the scenery and -the legends of the place.</p> -<p>Forsaken ruins such as these are to be found all over -Algeria, but more often the sites are now occupied by -modern colonists, and the ruins sacrificed to or incorporated -with new buildings. A few, however, are still -preserved to attract travellers, as at Tebessa, Tipaza, -and Cherchell. In Tunisia ruins abound, and are even -more remarkable for their extent and beauty. But it -is a thousand pities that in both countries nothing is -done to remove difficulties, so that expeditions are -given up in despair from absolute lack of information -and fear of discomfort. It seems a point of honour to -know nothing off the beaten track, and as even on it -the standard of comfort is not high, and requires some -experience and a little tolerance, much of the country -cannot be visited by ladies at all without a camp—a rare -luxury. Even men, accustomed to really roughing it, -suffer more than they care for from bad food in the -French villages, and from noise and dirt in the native -<i>Fonduks</i>.</p> -<p>One of these out of the way places is Dougga, where -the Roman ruins are so beautiful that no one should -count the cost in fatigue and trouble too great for a -visit.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_127">127</div> -<p>About two hours short of Tunis is the station of -Medjez el Bab, the gate of the ford. In olden days a -triumphal arch and a fine bridge across the Bagrada -(Medjerda) justified the name. Both have now vanished, -and the new bridge, built of the debris, is absolutely -picturesque with age. One of the chief roads of -Roman Africa passed over the original bridge, uniting -Carthage with Theveste and continuing to the borders -of Numidia. Military boundary stones all along the -route still bear this testimony—<i>Karthagine ad Thevestem -... usque ad fines Numidæ</i>.</p> -<p>The walled town nestles on the river banks almost -under the shade of a wide avenue, much appreciated in -the burning sunshine of May.</p> -<p>In obedience to orders a carriage and pair awaited -our arrival in the station-yard. This sounds imposing, -but its appearance was utterly wanting in dignity save -that conferred by the dust of ages. The vehicle was a -rattling old shandrydan of a waggonette, roofed after the -fashion of the country, and with leather curtains, which -could be buttoned together closely to keep off the sun -or rain; and, strange as it may seem, the darkness and -shadow of this box were after a time a relief from the -glare. Heat shimmered over the plain—blue, with a -flickering haze. The white ribbon of the road looped -carelessly round the olive groves, or stretched boldly -across undulating fields, already golden and ready for -harvest. The men amongst the corn, the very horses -on the road, were steeped in lazy drowsiness. They -worked, but it was as in a dream—just a pretence suited -<span class="pb" id="Page_128">128</span> -to the placid prosperity which brooded over all. Now -and then, as the hours passed by, towns and villages -came into view crowning the heights, all fortress-like, -many with towers, picturesque in outline and dirty -within.</p> -<p>One of these, surrounded by ruins, bears the name -of Chehoud el Batal, or the false-witness; for once, so -runs a legend, men, women, and children united in -bringing lying evidence against a man great and holy, -much beloved of Allah, so in the very act they were all -turned to stone, and the stones remain where they fell -for a witness to this day.</p> -<p>At mid-day we halted at Testour, once Colonia -Bisica Lucana, though little is left to tell the tale. -Really it is a bit out of Spain, an Andalusian hill city, -with minarets that recall the old belfries of that -country. The inhabitants are still called <i>Andaleuss</i>, -and are said to be direct descendants of those Moors -who escaped from Spain in the time of Ferdinand and -Isabella.</p> -<p>Donkeys, laden with huge water-pots, led us up the -steep hill, into the town, towards an open space, or -<i>plaza</i>, with arcaded cafés blinking in the sunshine. -Low one-storied houses with tiled roofs are built on -either side of a street which is both wide and straight—a -most unusual plan in a Moorish town, and very -unsuitable for great heat.</p> -<p>Every scrap of shade was occupied by listless Arabs, -who just roused themselves sufficiently to take part -in the slight bustle of our arrival, followed by the -<span class="pb" id="Page_129">129</span> -diligence, and then crept back to doze once more. -There is no inn, but the postmaster’s wife provides -food in her cool, clean rooms for dusty, wayworn -travellers. Her patient face, sad with the loneliness of -exile, lighted up with pleasure at the chance of a chat -with some of her own sex who knew <i>la belle France</i>. -Only three or four European families live at Testour, -and she and her husband are the only French inhabitants. -Many men pass through on business, but ladies -are comparatively rare. In the summer, traffic almost -ceases, for the heat is so trying, and, notwithstanding -the breezy situation, the thermometer occasionally rises -to 112° Fahrenheit. There was a note of plaintive endurance -in all the talk of the hostess, an attempt to -make the best of things, a certain pride in the knowledge -of Arabic and of triumph over housekeeping difficulties, -mixed with a thorough dislike for the country, and -contempt for the <i>indigène</i> and all his ways. Yet the -country is beautiful, almost homelike, and could be made -very rich.</p> -<p>A little further on is Ain-Tunga, or <i>Thignica</i>, a -small village now, whose importance in the past is -shown by the ruins scattered round a few poor houses. -The Byzantine fort still preserves an air of solid strength, -but only fragments enough remain to excite a languid -interest in the two temples, the theatre, and a triumphal -arch.</p> -<p>As the shadows lengthened, the country became -more and more charming, for we were nearing the -borders of Khroumirie, the most beautiful part of -<span class="pb" id="Page_130">130</span> -Tunisia. Clear streams and glades of olive trees -became more frequent, and peeps of distant mountains -gave variety to the hills and dales of a pastoral land.</p> -<p>Wonderful legends of lions are told of all this -district. As many as sixteen are said to have been seen -together at one time in one valley, through which we -now drove so carelessly. The scenery is too peaceful -to suggest the thought of wild beasts, and it is easier to -believe in lions amongst the rocks of El Kantara, or -the mountains of the Atlas and the Aures, than in this -sylvan spot.</p> -<p>Teboursouk, the goal of the day’s journey, appeared -at last on the brow of the hill, its walls and minarets -rising from a silvery sea of olives, the witchery of the -sinking sun increasing the effect of height and distance, -and throwing a veil of light over the few modern -houses on the outskirts.</p> -<p>Notwithstanding the noise and clatter caused by our -arrival, the inn, with its imposing name of Hôtel -International, seemed fast asleep; but at last the shouts -of the travellers by diligence produced an Arab servant. -Happy-go-lucky is the only way to describe the place. -The Italians who kept it were fettered by no ordinary -ideas of the proprieties. Dogs and babies, food, empty -plates, pans and brushes, decorated the staircase and -upper hall; pretty girls trotted about in an artless -<i>négligé</i> of chemise and petticoat, with their hair down -and their feet bare, until the second <i>déjeuner</i>, when they -appeared in flowery cotton wrappers, with their hair -elaborately dressed. It was not till dinner-time that -<span class="pb" id="Page_131">131</span> -they donned a full toilette, and enjoyed little flirtations -with the officers. They made a cheerful din, with loud -shouting and much laughter, but the Arab servant did -all the work, smiling and willing as usual. The rooms -were fair, and the food, considering all things, quite -tolerable, though when hot water was asked for, it -made its appearance in a small, rather dirty, saucepan.</p> -<p>Another of the peculiarities of Teboursouk was that it -contained no carriages, so that we were bound either to -retain our rattling, boneshaking conveyance at a fee of -twenty francs a day, or else pay the penalty by making -the return journey in the diligence, a still sorrier -vehicle, always crowded to suffocation with colonists -and Arabs with their bundles, who, not content with -over-filling the seats, perched themselves on the top of -the baggage on the roof.</p> -<p>Though Teboursouk looks its best from a distance, -it is still an attractive country town, with few pretensions -and almost unspoilt. Two mosques, one with many -domes, and both with good square minarets, stand in -its narrow, winding streets. There are only a few tiny -shops—hardly enough to call a bazaar, but the whole -effect is picturesque. The children are particularly -pretty and charming, playing games gaily in every -nook and corner. Small girls dance about with still -smaller children, riding in a sort of pick-a-back fashion, -with legs round the bearer’s waist instead of their -shoulders. The colour adds to the effect; in no other -village have we seen such perfect shades, or such variety -of red, yellow, and orange. Many of the boys were in -<span class="pb" id="Page_132">132</span> -pale blue, and the women were as gay as the children. -A dancing negro, a terrible monster in a mask, dressed -in a shirt and kilt of skins, with animals’ tails and foxes’ -brushes, and charms dangling from his girdle, drew all -the small folk after him like the Pied Piper, as he -danced, sang, and played his odd home-made guitar on -his way through the town. His head-dress was a -marvel in itself—a sort of fool’s cap of red and gold -embroidery, set with coins and shells, and with another -fine brush hanging down like a feather.</p> -<p>Columns and fragments of the Roman city Thibursicum -Bure are built into the walls, and near the old -fountain is an inscription recording its name. In the -walls are also to be seen the remains of a triumphal -arch. There is a Byzantine fort formed for the most -part of ruins. Several bishops of this See are mentioned -by Saint Augustine, and it is also known as the place of -martyrdom of a Christian called Felix, in the reign of -Diocletian.</p> -<p>Early morning saw us once more on the road, or -rather the rough cart-track, to Dougga. The air was -deliciously fresh and pure, and laden with the fragrance -of the wild flowers that covered the sward. The -horses did not like their work, and jibbed at the -constant hills. Progress, therefore, was slow, as they -only behaved properly on the down grades. A few -Arab boys, who had invited themselves to places on the -box and roof, jumped down and pushed and shouted -lustily, but the last hill was too steep, so we climbed -it on foot. However, the driver insisted on the poor -horses going to their orthodox stopping-place half-way -up, and rewarded them by fetching us in the evening -with a team of three, harnessed abreast.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig43"> -<img src="images/p042.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="639" /> -<p class="caption">TEMPLE OF CELESTIS, DOUGGA</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_133">133</div> -<p>A primitive Arab village covers part of the site of -the ancient Thugga. This is the simplest form of the -name, but an inscription near the temple gives the -following elaborate title, much too ponderous for daily -use: “Respublica Coloniæ Liciniæ Septimiæ Aureliæ, -Alexandrinæ Thuggensium.” The name was probably -derived from the Berber, and means green grass. The -city stands on a green hill, olive groves surround the -ruins, and the valley of the Oued Khaled, a tributary -of the Medjerda, is rich with green also.</p> -<p>Undoubtedly the most beautiful of all the ruins here -is the great temple of Celestis, sometimes called the -Capitol, which stands on the top of the hill, commanding -a wide outlook, a really exquisite view of wood, valley, -and mountains. The fine lines and proportions of this -building, the situation, and even the warm, mellow tones -of the stone, bring memories of Athens.</p> -<p>Time and weather have worn away the stone and -added tender greys to the colouring, but have not -greatly injured the grace of the fluted columns, the -delicate work on the Corinthian capitals, or the richness -of the mouldings. The sculpture on the pediment, -however, has suffered much, giving the opportunity for -many discussions as to whether it represents a lion, the -rape of Ganymede, or the eagle of Jupiter. Wings -are certainly visible, but the rest is a blur. The fine -door of the <i>cella</i> is still perfect, and consists of three -<span class="pb" id="Page_134">134</span> -huge stones bearing an inscription; there is another on -the portico, which states that the temple was built by -two brothers at their own expense:—</p> -<p class="center">L. MARCVS · SIMPLEX · ET · L · MAR -<br />CIVS · SIMPLEX · REGILLIANVS · S. P. F.</p> -<p>It was dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva.</p> -<p>At the present time workmen are busy rebuilding -the walls of the <i>cella</i>—a work which seems a sad waste -of time and energy. The existing masonry, of a later -date than the rest of the temple, possibly Byzantine, is -of a style much used in North Africa, consisting of -courses of stone laid horizontally, with upright bars of -stone at intervals of about four feet, the square interstices -filled with odds and ends of stone, like “the long -and short bond” found in Roman and Saxon work in -Britain. Bruce thought this “one of the most beautiful -ruins of a temple in white marble in the world.” -Playfair considers it as built of nothing less than -Lumachella Antica, one of the lost Numidian marbles, -now worth its weight in gold.</p> -<p>The theatre is also a gem, and though there is now -no performance, it is still a joy to sit in the deep, cool -shade on the almost perfect marble seats, and look -across the stage and the broken columns to the sunny -landscape beyond. It is finer in every way than the -theatre at Timgad, and almost as large as the well-known -theatre of Taormina.</p> -<p>At the entrance to the olive groves stands a -triumphal arch of the decadent period, called <i>Bab el</i> -<span class="pb" id="Page_135">135</span> -<i>Roumi</i>, or Gate of the Christian. There are also the -remains of the temple of Saturn, baths, an aqueduct, -seven cisterns like those at Carthage, a circus, a fortress, -monuments, and many other ruins too numerous to -mention. Last, and perhaps most important of all, -because it dates from the Phœnician times, is the great -Mausoleum, wrecked by the Arabs employed by Sir -Thomas Reade to remove the celebrated bilingual stone -now in the British Museum.</p> -<p>Though the men and boys spent the day in a circle -round us to watch and to criticise, thoroughly absorbed -in the sketch, yet they had charming manners, dignified -and smiling faces, and not even the smallest boy -dared to be troublesome—a great contrast to many -in Algeria, who have picked up the bad ways of the -modern town-urchins. The same may be said of -Teboursouk.</p> -<p>At Medjez el Bab another display of fine courtesy -was found in a most unlikely quarter. The hotel was -said to be quite impossibly dirty, so we were advised -to dine and wait for the late train to Tunis at a -cabaret near the station. The place was a shanty, -full of men drinking and smoking, <i>colons</i> and railway -employés. Every one took our appearance as a matter -of course, bowed politely, and did their utmost to make -us feel at home, the smokers retiring outside. Dinner -was served for us at a table apart, quite nicely laid and -cooked. There was good soup, chicken, wine and -dessert, all for a ridiculously small sum. After dinner -some of the men wished to talk, asked many questions -<span class="pb" id="Page_136">136</span> -about home and foreign affairs, and discussed the latest -news of the war in the East. The wistful little woman -who did the cooking could hardly make enough of us, -and when the train arrived at last, no one would say -good-bye, but only “Come again.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_139">139</div> -<h2 id="c9">CHAPTER IX -<br /><span class="small">TUNIS</span></h2> -<p>Through darkness broken by hardly a gleam of light, -and silence stirred by no sound but the throbbing of an -overworked engine, in much weariness and at night, -Tunis is reached at last with a suddenness which almost -startles the traveller. The hours that passed so quickly -in the morning, grow in length with the day, and after -sundown every minute counts, and the hours in the -dimly lighted carriages seem interminable; for travel -in this part of North Africa is tedious and uncomfortable -to a degree only known in Spain and perhaps -sometimes in Italy.</p> -<p>Consequently the first impression of Tunis as -one enters it by train is neither artistic nor Oriental, -but rather a mingling of bustle and glare with much -noise, followed by a rattling drive over paved streets, -and the comforting assurance of rest. The arrival by -sea has much the same disadvantages, for the steamer -has a way of getting in after nightfall, so that the -new-comer drives from the quay, along brightly lighted -streets, side by side with an electric tram. This may -<span class="pb" id="Page_140">140</span> -be a blessing in disguise, as the darkness hides the -sordid details, and makes it possible, with some luck -in the choice of a room, to find that a glance out of -window next morning reveals the old Moorish city -in the first blush of the morning light.</p> -<p>Tunis is still the “white city”—still also, in more -senses than one, the “odoriferous bride” of the Arab -writers. The other name of El Hadhera, the green, -hardly seems so suitable from this point, for at an early -hour the whiteness is more noticeable. The sunlight -falls on the houses at an angle that suggests pre-arrangement, -a scheme without a shadow. This gives -a look of unreality, a curious lack of substance. If the -actual lines were finer the effect would be that of a fairy -city built of pure light, but as it is now, a later moment -is more beautiful, when the shadows creep across the -white walls and give value to the graceful forms of the -minarets.</p> -<p>All this pearly whiteness is full of colour, though in -the ordinary sense of the word there is little or none. -What there is, however, is green, as becomes a Moslem -stronghold. Far below, as it seems looking down from -the roof, lies a garden full of orange trees and one -feathery palm. This hardly comes into the picture, -but a few other trees do, and one or two lonely palms, -and the colour of the foliage is repeated in the -wondrous green of some of the domes. The minarets -and two or three of the mosques have pointed roofs -of green tiles, and green also predominates in the -tiles used for decoration; so that even in the heart -of the city there is more than a mere suggestion of -green.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig44"> -<img src="images/p043.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="506" /> -<p class="caption">TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_141">141</div> -<p>The walls and roofs rise terrace-like one above the -other to the Casbah, which, as usual, is built on the -highest point—blank walls mostly, with few windows -(often mere holes), though occasionally a balcony with a -tiled roof, shading a carved window-frame inlaid with -bright tiles, gives a hint of taste or wealth. All these -straight lines and plain surfaces are redeemed from -monotony by the curves of domes and the height and -variety of form shown in the minarets. The small -fluted domes of the great mosque are dazzlingly white; -the minaret is square, with delicate Moorish tracery in -a yellowish stone; the upper story of marble is set -with coloured tiles, and with an open gallery of horseshoe -arches.</p> -<p>The minarets of Sidi Ben Ziad and Sidi Ben Arous -are slender, octagonal towers of the same warm-hued -stone, surmounted by turrets with jutting balconies -quaintly roofed with green tiles, from which the muezzin -sings the call to prayer. Much older, but not so -imposing, is the square minaret of the mosque of the -Casbah, said to date from <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 1232. Such is Tunis, -a compact mass of white buildings, with no open -spaces and no streets visible.</p> -<p>So old, and yet with such a continuous history, that -although founded before either Utica or Carthage, it is -still known by its original name. This name of Tunis -is in Punic characters Tanaïs, and is identical with the -name of the Persian Venus. Probably the city was -<span class="pb" id="Page_142">142</span> -called after her, as other towns in Tunisia bore the -names of deities. In those days Astarte, or Ashtaroth, -combined the attributes and duties of Venus, Minerva, -Juno, and Ceres, and was not only the goddess of beauty, -the mother of love and queen of joy, but also the -protectress of chastity, of war and of arms, and the -patroness of corn and of husbandry. Such a divinity -might well be invoked to take charge of a city, and in -this case she evidently succeeded.</p> -<p>The city shared in the prosperity and also the evil -days of Carthage and Utica, and, as a Roman province, -endured all the changes in the life of Rome down to the -fall of the Empire in Rome and Constantinople.</p> -<p>When the Vandals were cast out of Europe in <span class="sc">A.D.</span> -430, they devastated the north coast of Africa till they -in their turn were driven by the Greeks beyond the -mountains of the Atlas. Next, the Arab invaders swept -over the land like a torrent, and in <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 644-648 took -possession of Tunisia, which was thenceforward governed -by Emirs appointed by the Khalifs.</p> -<p>The later history of Tunis, like that of Algiers, tells -of a period of calm and culture, followed, after the -expulsion of the Moors from Spain under the Christian -kings, by a long chronicle of fighting and piracy; for -thus these fugitive Moors vented their rage and -avenged their wrongs on all seafaring people, merely -because they were Christians. Slavery was carried on -to the same terrible extent, for in 1535 no fewer than -20,000 Christian slaves escaped from the Casbah to -open the city gates to Charles V.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_143">143</div> -<p>Amongst other noted captives St. Vincent de Paul -spent two years here in slavery, and in consequence -devoted his after life to helping prisoners and galley -slaves. An old house still exists with a fine courtyard, -called even now the house of the Christian, which is said -to have been built by a slave, who was killed by his -owner as soon as the work was complete. The mosque -of Sidi Mahrez, with its many domes, is supposed to have -been the design of a French architect captured by the -Corsairs.</p> -<p>A great part of the old walls and many of the gates -still remain, and though modern buildings are closing -round and gradually replacing the Moorish dwellings in -the outlying quarters of Bab Djazira and Bab Souika, -yet, within the magic circle, Oriental style, manners, and -customs hold their own.</p> -<p>This is one of the many ways in which the French -have gained experience in Algeria and profited by it in -Tunisia. The old cities are left intact, instead of being -destroyed to make way for new boulevards, and the -French quarter, its public buildings, theatre, shops and -restaurants, grow up outside the walls. The two races -dwell apart, but both flourish together. Street names, -lighting, and cleaning have been introduced, and the -old town itself is incredibly clean for an Eastern city—cleaner -by far than many cities of France and Italy. -Though trams encircle the city and run through the -suburbs, all proposals to disfigure the central quarter, -the Medina, have met with a stern refusal. To walk -through its gates is to step into another world—a -<span class="pb" id="Page_144">144</span> -world as full of surprises and romance as it is of -variety.</p> -<p>The old water-gate, the Porte de France, a simple -horse-shoe arch, opens into a great hive. There, in a -little open space, a swarming crowd, busy and noisy as -bees, pushes towards the narrow streets which mount to -the bazaars. At first East and West mingle. Then, -step by step, the half-French, half-Levantine element -gives place to the real East. “<i>Bara Balek</i>” (“Take care”) -is the continual cry; and one must be watchful, or pay -the penalty. It is true that wheeled traffic almost ceases, -for the few carts generally only succeed in blocking the -way, and must take hours to reach their destination. -But strings of tiny donkeys, hardly larger than dogs, do -all the work, helped occasionally by camels, which shove -through the throng regardless of consequences. Then -there are the porters. At first it is startling to see -wardrobes, beds, or huge cases walking apparently on -their own feet; but after a time the oddest loads are taken -as a matter of course, a part of the universal strangeness -of things. Yet it is wonderful to see these men in their -characteristic dress, with bare arms and legs, and scarlet -kerchief by way of turban, coolly walk off with a heavy -weight that would take two men to lift at home. If it -is so easy to bear a burden on the back by means of a -rope passed round the forehead, why has not this simple -method been adopted in the West? Thus, slowly, and -in stately fashion, with all due regard for each other’s -dignity, the crowd presses onwards to the heart of the -city, the great Souks.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig45"> -<img src="images/p044.jpg" alt="" width="688" height="999" /> -<p class="caption">SOUK DES ÉTOFFES, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_145">145</div> -<p>There are no such Souks in all the near East. In -Constantinople the men have discarded their turbans and -flowing robes, and the vaulted halls though fine in form -are cold and poor in colour. The bazaars of Cairo are -quaintly informal, but lack architectural style, though -the people are picturesque enough. In Damascus the -buildings are modern, and look outside like railway -stations with arched roofs, though within is seen the true -and perfect life of the East, so unspoiled that the passing -stranger feels his European clothes a positive eyesore, -and knows that it is barely possible that the picture -will be marred for him by any other intruder. Here -the long vaulted halls, lighted only by rays of sunshine -falling through square holes in the roof, are as fine as -in Constantinople, and, in addition, are full of life and -colour. The crowd is even more picturesque than in -Damascus,—though here, alas! it is twice as difficult -to dodge European figures,—whilst Cairo itself cannot -show more quaint corners.</p> -<p>Each of the trades has its own Souk, and each Souk -its peculiar character. Some only contain goods for -sale, but most of them are workshops as well—a far -more interesting arrangement. Bewildering, yet enchanting—a -pageant of pure colour, where dusky twilight -holds its restful sway, harmonising the tints, veiling the -forms, filling the dark recesses with mystery.</p> -<p>Hour after hour, day after day, may be spent threading -the mazes, watching and trying to decipher the open -book that seems so full of ideas, some half-remembered, -others wholly new, but all subtle and elusive, so different -<span class="pb" id="Page_146">146</span> -to our usual life. Bible stories mix themselves hopelessly -with the <i>Arabian Nights</i>, and the whirl of thought -is as rapid as the change of colour.</p> -<p>The first day it seems impossible to think of finding -one’s way alone through this intricate network, but -gradually the main lines become clear, and then it is -easy enough to wander in and out at will, with the -certainty that confusion, or even total loss of bearings, -means nothing worse than another turn or two, and -then the sight of some well-known landmark.</p> -<p>Such a landmark is the Souk des Etoffes, very -formal, absolutely straight, but decidedly the most -distinguished of all. A low archway of horse-shoe form -opens into a hall with three aisles, of which the centre -forms the actual street, and the two others the side -walks. Short and sturdy pillars, roughly but effectively -painted in pure scarlet and green, support the arched -roof. Rows of square cells on either side, dark yet -glowing with colour, are packed with piles of silk and -embroideries of every tone and texture, overflowing the -narrow space within. They are hung on the walls and -from the pillars in well-arranged disorder. Persian -and Kairouan carpets deck the walls with rich, soft hues, -old brass lamps from the mosques, of fine damascene -work, stand side by side with inlaid furniture, odd-shaped -mother-of-pearl caskets, weapons, and other -treasures, all placed by a master hand so as to tempt -customers to the utmost. In each tiny shop the owner -sits dreaming over a cigarette, or entertains a friend or -possible purchaser with coffee. In one corner, bright -<span class="pb" id="Page_147">147</span> -with coloured tiles, a man whose whole equipment -appears to consist of a charcoal stove, a pan of water, a -wee coffee-pot, and some microscopic cups, does a -thriving trade, and trots up and down the Souk continually -to supply this pressing need; for without -coffee nothing could be settled, nor any business done.</p> -<p>Watchful touts with keen eyes lie in wait for the -unwary, whom they inveigle into the shops, whilst in a -high-handed fashion they order about the real owner, -who meekly obeys their orders. They pretend to -bargain, but really raise the prices, which are preposterous -even for the East, and of course pocket a large -percentage themselves. However, they are very quick, -and never forget a face, so that it is only the casual -visitor who suffers. After a day or two one is free of -the bazaar, and begins to have many kindly acquaintances. -Bargaining is the game of the place, and a most -amusing game it is to play. It demands infinite -patience, much diplomacy, some instinct for fun, and, -above all, either a real or a well-feigned indifference. -The shopkeeper, impassive and smiling, has no hesitation -in announcing that he will be ruined and his throat -cut if he sells at such low prices. He is sure that anyone -so exceedingly tall must be also extremely rich, or -he tells you that your face speaks of riches. This was -said to a very thin woman. But if the would-be -customer answers in the same strain, the prices will -descend by leaps and bounds, and on the conclusion of -the bargain the ruined man implores his victims to -come again to-morrow: “For, see, I have given it to -<span class="pb" id="Page_148">148</span> -you because I like you; you are my friend.” In out-of-the-way -shops a few words of Arabic are a great -help, as the owner often says, “<i>Makansch Francees</i>,” -which means, “No French here.” The language is a -dialect, and few of the familiar Egyptian phrases are of -any use. Even to be able to count in Arabic is something, -as the officious person who usually appears to -translate invariably doubles the price. But though the -Arabs often talk excellent French it is a terrible drawback -neither to understand nor to talk Arabic easily.</p> -<p>The Arabs declare that under the old régime -business in the Souks was better regulated, and every -trade had its own Sheikh, who ruled it with a rod of -iron. He fixed the prices, and woe to the man who -charged less or more, for when convicted the rod -descended, and he was beaten then and there. The -value of fruit, meat, and vegetables, etc., was announced -by a crier at night, and next day each shop was bound -to obey the order. This sounds somewhat tyrannical, -but they liked it.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig46"> -<img src="images/p045.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="675" /> -<p class="caption">SOUK EL ATTARIN, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_149">149</div> -<p>The Souk el Attarin, or scent bazaar, is the aristocratic -quarter, and the owners of these square cupboards, -with huge painted shutters, are, it is said, nobles, the -descendants of the Corsair chiefs, and often very rich; -but, as good Moslems, they do not care to meet in -each other’s houses, for that would upset their harems. -Clubs do not exist, but in the bazaars all the news is to -be heard and social life is to be found. So they spend -their days sitting calm and imperturbable each in his -niche, to which they mount with the assistance of a -cord suspended from the ceiling. Enormous candles, -gilded and fantastically coloured, hang like a curtain -round them. In the mysterious recesses are jars and -bottles, containing the priceless attar of roses, essence of -jasmine, geranium, or amber, and countless other sweet -scents. The whole bazaar is full of perfume, making -it a pleasant place to tarry in. On the ground are -baskets and sacks filled with dried leaves, or piled with -green powder, both preparations of henna. Outside -each shop stands a chair or two, on which grave elders -rest and talk. Younger men stroll about, true types of -Moors, their handsome, smooth faces equally calm. -They are great dandies, and wear robes of soft cloth -and silk of most delicate tints. On festivals they place -a flower coquettishly between their turbans and their -ears, which gives a curious touch of the feminine to -their appearance. Some also carry a rose or carnation -in their hands “to live up to” in true æsthetic style.</p> -<p>No one bothers about business: they are too dignified -for that. Only once did anyone ask us to buy, and -when we said “another day,” we were adopted as -friends, to be greeted placidly and talked to occasionally, -and we found ourselves remembered and on the -same footing another year.</p> -<p>The Souk el Blagdia, or the shoe bazaar, is quite -different. The street is narrow, there are no gay -pillars, the roof is of wood, the shops are a trifle -larger, and hold one or two men who are ceaselessly at -work. They make the soft yellow and red slippers -which the Arabs wear, and keep on so easily, though -<span class="pb" id="Page_150">150</span> -they are such a failure when Europeans try them. -Here life is earnest enough, and so it is in the bazaar of -the tailors, where the shops are larger, and divided one -from another by the usual green and red columns. In -each shop eight or ten men and boys, many of them -Jews, in the distinctive dark blue turban, squat on the -floor, sewing busily. They stitch, embroider, and -decorate most elaborate outfits, cloaks of every colour -in and out of the rainbow, and of the most perfect -shades. You can see them at work upon gandourahs -of deep red silk, embroidered in green, and tiny jackets -for boys, of pale yellow, orange, and red, whilst the -finished garments hang as draperies behind their heads, -and the sun peeps through the rough splintered boards -of the roof and sends shafts of light that flicker and -change as they touch the moving crowds. The jewellers -dwell in a narrow passage, and hardly display their goods -at all; some silver jewels, mostly hands of Fathma, and -a pair of scales, being perhaps all that is shown, but -a big safe gives promise of hidden treasures. Near by is -the old slave-market, a picturesque hall, dark and lonely, -with the usual gay pillars and but few quiet shops.</p> -<p>The Souk des Femmes, like many others, is a white -tunnel lined with shops. It is very crowded in the -early morning, and is almost the only place where many -women are seen together. Some sit on the ground and -sell their own handiwork, others are busy bargaining -for veils and embroideries. All are of the poorer class -and heavily veiled, if two strips of black crépon covering -the face like a mould, with half an inch gap between -them for the eyes, can be called a veil. It is quite -hideous, and, as the rest of the dress is white, makes -them look like negresses.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig47"> -<img src="images/p046.jpg" alt="" width="718" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">SOUK EL TROUK, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_151">151</div> -<p>One bazaar is full of terrible compounds of dates -and figs, dried fruit and grain. Another small street -is given up to the sieve-makers, who weave their webs -at looms which look like strange musical instruments. -In many places baskets and mats are made. Silk -weaving and the making of belts and scarves are other -flourishing industries, and to stand and watch the long, -slim fingers moving quickly at the old-world looms is -a sight that one never tires of watching. Hands and -feet come into play together at the turners and the -cabinet-makers in a long street of many arches. Deft -fingers and delicate handling are seen also at the copper-workers. -In fact, at every turn there is something -strange or beautiful, and at the least entirely different -to anything we do, or see at home. The harness-makers -rival the tailors in the brilliance of their goods. -Gorgeous saddles there are, with red and gold and silver -decorations, marvellous saddle-bags also, gay with stripes -and tassels. They sell huge hats, at least a yard in -diameter, with narrow crowns a foot high, ornamented -with quaintly-cut leather and bright balls of wool. -They make cushions and odd-shaped pouches and -money-bags, and leather amulets to carry the charms -without which no one can live, and round mirrors for -the women. Their bazaar is also noted for the tomb -of a Marabout, a gaudily painted sarcophagus which -almost blocks up the narrow gangway.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_152">152</div> -<p>After this the Souk where the lawyers sit waiting -for business, and now and then writing a few letters -which earnest men dictate to them, seems tame, and the -libraries are quiet too; but another turn lands you -amongst truly magnificent boxes painted and inlaid.</p> -<p>So the show goes on, at once grave and gay, from -year’s end to year’s end, always the same, as it has -always been, and so may it long continue.</p> -<p>All the more important Souks have thick roofs, and -consequently keep cool in the hottest weather, so that -even when the thermometer stands at 100° in the shade, -the bazaars seem quite fresh, almost chilly at first, as one -steps into the dark out of the sunshine.</p> -<p>Some of the small bazaars, however, in the poorer -quarters are only protected by shutters, blinds, awnings, -rags, or anything that will keep the sun away. How -strange this sounds to us! Such a street is the Souk el -Belat, a name which is said to mean “a paved street”—hardly -a distinctive title in a town where all the streets -are paved. The shops are queer little places, some full -of strange, unknown commodities, and others full of -food of various sorts, which the owners have to protect -by flicking it with fans or whisks, as the flies are so -troublesome. The beauty of this street lies in its -windows, which are screened with ornamental wrought -ironwork.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig48"> -<img src="images/p047.jpg" alt="" width="742" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">SOUK EL BELAT, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_153">153</div> -<p>Another constant amusement is to watch the informal -sales by auction. Men walk up and down laden -with various goods and chattels, embroideries, or -lengths of silk, shouting a price as they move along. -The bystanders occasionally make a bid, or nod, and in -time a bargain is made. Furniture and carpets are sold -in an open space at the end of the Souk of the tailors, -just under the windows of the Bey’s Palace. The -auctioneer usually sits on the object, if it is big enough, -and the bidding goes on in leisurely fashion, but with a -deafening noise, for hours together. It is a grand place -for seeing life, for crowds always collect, especially on -the days when the Bey comes to Tunis, and they stand -and watch him as he sits in a gilt chair near a window, -resting after his morning’s work. He has a decided -advantage over his subjects, as they cannot see him -properly, whereas he has a series of peeping-holes in all -his principal rooms, and can see and hear all that goes on -in the Souk, without any one guessing at his presence.</p> -<p>A gem of a mosque, that of Sidi Ben Ziad, stands in -this street, catching the sunlight on the characteristic -black and white marble façade, on the splendid green -tiles of the roof, and on the most beautiful minaret in -Tunis. When the call to prayer is heard at mid-day -echoing from the gallery, the listening crowd of Arabs -set their watches and disappear, some to prayers, others -to dinner, and the noise and bustle is succeeded by the -silent emptiness of a buried city.</p> -<p>In all Tunisia, except at Kairouan, it is a forbidden -pleasure to visit the interior of the mosques. Even -furtive peeps are guarded against, by large green screens -in all the open doorways. This is especially disappointing -at the great feasts, though the scene in the bazaars -ought to be compensation enough.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_154">154</div> -<p>On the 26th of May, the birthday of the Prophet, -the Bey goes in state to the great Mosque, a pilgrimage -that he only makes twice in the year. It is situated in -the heart of the Souks: doors open into the court from -every side—one with a flight of steps, a terrace and -colonnade; another, in the Rue des Libraires, with a -beautiful porch and green-tiled roof; the rest with no -architectural interest. It is called Djama el Zitouna, -the Mosque of the Olives, and many of its pillars are -spoils from Carthage.</p> -<p>In honour of the occasion, or of the Bey, the Souks -are decked with carpets and wonderful embroideries; -every space on the walls is covered till the whole is -aglow with colour. The way to the mosque is packed -with the Faithful in gala dress—men and boys alike in -exquisite tints; for the Tunisians have an innate sense -of colour, and blend and combine hues that would be -unthinkable elsewhere, although the result in their hands -is charming. The Arabs say that it is the sunshine that -makes the harmony, and that that is the reason why imitations -of Moorish decoration look so garish under our -cold grey skies. On such a day the flowers behind the -ear add a touch of perfection to the radiance on every -face. Each shop in the street of the tailors looks like -a collector’s cabinet of idols, for the master sits cross-legged -in the centre, motionless as an image of Buddha, -with his men round him. When the Bey has passed, -the shops are closed and the festivities commence. As -night falls the illuminations begin. All the minarets -are outlined in light, and the square in front of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_155">155</span> -Palace is a fairyland of cherry-coloured Chinese lanterns. -It is almost impossible to move, and the gendarmes are -already closing the entrances to the Souks, but way is -promptly made for such important people as ourselves, -and we walk down the familiar street with our proud -guide and find it all new and strange.</p> -<p>The details are extraordinary, a true picture of the -East, where horrors in the shape of European novelties -are set side by side with treasures of Oriental art. -Here no sort of contrivance for giving light has been -despised. Queer old lanterns and sconces alternate -with common lamps, flambeaux, old lustres, and glittering -glass chandeliers. It is all incongruous—absolutely -wrong from a properly artistic point of view, but -that does not matter in the least. Light and an air of -festivity are what is wanted, and, let purists say what -they will, the effect, though amusing, is as delightful as -it is unusual, making the colour of the gay crowd if -possible more entrancing than in the morning. From -the dignified shelter of one of the biggest shops we sit -and watch the moving throng, and prepare to receive -the Bey. Presently the procession appears, and adds a -last touch of incongruity by its want of order. Soldiers -and guards in a travesty of European uniforms lead the -way. Some look like old watchmen, as they stoop and -carry lanterns dating from the days of Dogberry. The -Bey is also in uniform, with stars and orders, and jewels -in his fez, and is followed by his chief officers. Even -for this occasion they abjure native dress, and so the -very least of all his subjects appears with more dignity -<span class="pb" id="Page_156">156</span> -than himself. The great man approaches smiling, -salutes the owner of our shop, condescends to enter, -drink a cup of coffee, and talk a little, then passes -through the rooms, and every one rises and bows, whilst -he with many salutes goes his way to the mosque. He -never fails to pay a yearly visit of ceremony to this old -dealer, or to traverse all the main bazaars, and he sometimes -calls on one or two other merchants. After the -service is over, fireworks wind up the proceedings. -Thus do the Tunisians celebrate the birthday of -Mohammed, whom they believe to have been so unlike -and so superior to other men; because, as the legend -says, all children are born with a black spot in their -hearts, and when God chose His prophet, an angel -opened his heart and took the natural stain out of it, so -that he alone of all mankind had no taint of original -sin.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig49"> -<img src="images/p048.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="317" /> -<p class="caption">TUNIS FROM THE BELVEDERE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_159">159</div> -<h2 id="c10">CHAPTER X -<br /><span class="small">LIFE IN TUNIS</span></h2> -<p>Even in the quiet and silent streets of Tunis, where -every footstep echoes between the high white walls, the -hum of the distant hive can still be heard. The streets -even of the rich quarter are never straight, but meander -in and out, and are withal so narrow as to fit to a -nicety the lumbering old carriages that convey their -stately owners about the city. No two vehicles can -ever attempt to pass each other, but have to manœuvre -down side alleys. Now and then the red blinds are -tightly closed, which means that the ladies of some -harem are taking an airing. But this is rare, for the -poor things have a very monotonous life in Tunis, -are never allowed to walk, do not seem, as at Algiers, -to picnic in the cemeteries, and seldom even drive.</p> -<p>Poor women are little seen in the streets, and those -of their rich sisters who have no pretensions to rank -are only permitted to walk about occasionally, and then -do so under the surveillance of servants, and with such -heavy silk veils that they must be almost smothered. -These so-called veils are of black silk, with decorative -<span class="pb" id="Page_160">160</span> -borders and fringed ends of many colours. The width -is considerable, and the length sufficient to cover the -head and fall nearly to the ground on either side. -Exactly in the centre a small square of thinner material -is let in, but the wearer, in order to breathe and see the -ground at her feet, lifts the lower border a few inches -with both hands, and then toddles along in her high-heeled -slippers. Over the black veil comes the white -haïck completely covering the whole figure.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig50"> -<img src="images/p049.jpg" alt="" width="701" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">A STREET OF ARCHES, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_161">161</div> -<p>These veiled women, the closed carriages, the -elaborate wooden or wrought-iron screens that mask -the windows, and the air of reserve about the houses, all -hint at a strange life within. The very doors open in -such a way as to reveal nothing of the inner court, and -the gay flowers in the windows alone show visible signs -of a woman’s care. The closed doors are the symbol -of secrecy as impenetrable as the women’s veils. When, -as occasionally happens, some story of the life of the -harem is allowed to leak out, the tale is always of -terror, cruelty, and persecution. Not that a visit to a -harem is at all tragic—quite the reverse; for though it -is no new thing to be amused, it is rather unusual to -find oneself so amusing, to see that no detail escapes -criticism, to hear endless comments, and understand -nothing but the smiles, the gestures, and the stroking of -soft fingers. It is all guesswork from the moment -that the beautiful being, who acts as Cavass to the -Consulate, hands over his charges to a smiling woman, -with a great horn on her head, covered by a haïck, the -dress of a Jewess, who is to act as escort. With becks -and nods and many smiles, for she knew only two -words of French, she dived down street after street and -along narrow passages, which we could never find again, -till at last she stood at a door and knocked. Almost -noiselessly it opened, and we found ourselves exchanging -solemn greetings with our host, who sat on a divan -in the entrance. Having welcomed us, he allowed our -guide to lead us into the covered court filled with a -gay throng. Such a hubbub! Music and singing and -long drawn-out trilling cries of joy, for this was a -party after a wedding. A group of women with -musical instruments sat on a mattress in one corner, -and sang and played at intervals, while the rest of the -company formed a circle on chairs and divans. As -soon as we entered every one crowded round us, and we -were stroked and patted, given coffee and chairs, before -the serious business of examining all our possessions -began. Our first breach of etiquette was that we -forgot to unveil. Our hostesses frowned and pointed -till the objectionable bit of net was removed. Hats -were of no consequence, as head-dresses were worn, -handsome kerchiefs of all colours with fringes, and -many jewels on the forehead. The dress consisted of -sleeveless embroidered coats over lace jackets or ordinary -low bodices, full trousers of rich brocades and satins, or, -in the case of visitors, of white cotton with stripes of -insertion and ribbon down the front, white stockings -and smart shoes. Beneath all this finery their necks -and arms were covered by ugly striped vests, so, -decidedly, the inherent good taste of their lords is not -<span class="pb" id="Page_162">162</span> -shared by the ladies of the harem. They were all -short and generally stout, handsome in a rather heavy -way, with thick, painted eyebrows, darkened eyelashes, -and henna-stained hands. They peered into our faces to -try and discover paint and powder, took off our gloves -to see our hands, admired some real old lace, and, having -got over their first fear, fell absolutely in love with a -fur stole with little tails and claws. Our simple gold -chains and watches and our lack of other ornaments -evidently surprised them, as they were adorned -with golden cables and plaques of gold and brilliant -blue enamel. It was most embarrassing to talk by -signs, and our few words of Arabic were soon exhausted. -All their treasures were displayed: the -mother-of-pearl coffers, the great divans, the French -bedsteads hidden in alcoves. On one divan, two pretty -imps of children were lying with their faces buried in -the cushions. The women explained that they were in -terror at our great height; they had never seen such -monsters. By force of contrast our slender, dark -figures may have appeared gigantic, but what would -they have thought of some of our six-foot friends? -Before we left we had the pleasure of watching some -of them dress to go away. Some changed their socks -into commoner ones for the street, then the black veils -went on, and after that, with deft grace and subtle twist, -the haïcks were arranged. Then they were ready to -face anyone, even their host in exile at his own front -door.</p> -<p>There was nothing remarkable about the house, but -<span class="pb" id="Page_163">163</span> -the interior of many of the old buildings is very fine. -The rooms, opening out of the usual courts, have -carved ceilings and delicate stucco work, after the -fashion of the Alhambra. The effect is generally -spoilt by European hangings, carpets and furniture of -the worst period of the nineteenth century.</p> -<p>The Bey has some beautiful rooms in his town -palace of Dar el Bey, where fine old work is, with the -same want of knowledge, marred by the addition of -gilt clocks, glass chandeliers, and poor carpets, so that -it is a relief to escape to the roof and look out over the -city, and try to trace the whereabouts of streets and -bazaars hidden in the mass of white.</p> -<p>The Bardo, or show palace, in the country suffers -even more from the same want of artistic feeling. -Built mostly of marble, an imposing staircase, flanked -by lions couchant, four on each side, leads to an open -loggia and a fine court with horse-shoe arches, slender -columns, and the usual fountain. Other halls and -courts, beautiful in Moorish style, have the exquisite -lace-like stucco that is almost a lost art nowadays, and -wonderful ceilings; but each hall contains gilt chairs, -the inevitable clocks, glass chandeliers, terrible portraits, -even cheap lace curtains and Brussels carpets with -glaring patterns, for which there is no possible excuse, as -the bazaars are full of splendid native carpets and -hangings of harmonious colourings and suitable designs. -However, the guardians are prouder of the enormities -in the way of portraits than they are of the place itself.</p> -<p>In the rich quarter the only other buildings of note -<span class="pb" id="Page_164">164</span> -are the many white domes of the Marabouts, or tombs -of the Saints, and the yet more attractive green domes -that cover the burying-places of the Beys. These can -only be admired from the outside, as they share the -sacred character of the mosques. Green tiles also -appear as roofs for fountains, and are sometimes -supported by antique columns. Numbers of these -columns may be found all over the city embedded in -the walls and covered with whitewash.</p> -<p>The Hara, the old Jewish quarter, no longer holds -the enormous population. The old rules are things -of the past, the gates are no longer closed at night, -so the overflow fills the surrounding streets and gives -its own indescribable touch to the whole district. -The old men still wear the dark turbans and blue or -grey clothes, but the younger imitate the Moors if -poor, and if rich the Europeans. Driving is now a -favourite amusement, possibly because formerly those -who possessed donkeys might only ride them outside -the city walls, and horses were entirely forbidden.</p> -<p>Now every peculiarity of Eastern life seems intensified -if not doubled. Twice as many people as in the -Arab quarter crowd into still narrower streets. Noise -and confusion never ceases. There are certainly fewer -shops, but the dirt is more than double, and as for the -smells, the variety is greater and twice as strong. Even -the name of the main street, Souk el Hout, or “Fried -Fish Street,” suggests this.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig51"> -<img src="images/p050.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="711" /> -<p class="caption">THE ZAOUÏA OF THE RUE TOURBET EL BEY, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_165">165</div> -<p>Women and children abound, so do beautiful faces. -This is difficult to realise, till the first shock caused by -seeing so many unwieldy forms has been got over. -All the married women, however young, are moving -mountains of fat. It is considered their greatest adornment, -and they are systematically fed on sweets and -fattening foods all day long till the requisite result is -attained. No one ever seems to fail in the effort!</p> -<p>Before the process begins the girls are lovely and -graceful, and their method of winding a wide piece of -striped material round them by way of a petticoat -shows their slender frames to great advantage, whilst -the gay kerchief on their heads contrasts brilliantly -with their dark hair and eyes.</p> -<p>The married women wear a quaint head-dress -consisting of a gold embroidered horn, kept in its place -by twisted scarves of black and gold silk. Out of -doors the haïck is draped over it—a fashion said to be -a legacy of Crusading times. The rest of the costume -is hideous, and appears to be designed to accentuate the -stoutness as much as possible. A short and loose coat -is worn over white trousers that are also short but -tight; and though the coat of silk in vivid colours is -worn over a lace shirt with full sleeves to the elbow, -that does not help matters much. Out of doors the all-enveloping -haïck is useful as a cloak, but indoors, in -one of the big courtyards where countless families live -and work together, these prodigious figures can neither -be overlooked nor ignored.</p> -<p>Going from quarter to quarter sketching is like -moving into a different country. Amongst the Arabs -and the Moors, whether rich or poor, the same courtesy -<span class="pb" id="Page_166">166</span> -is always to be found. Although an Arab thinks it -wrong to draw any living thing, and believes that an -artist in reproducing a man’s image gains power over -his soul, yet he will gravely permit his shop to be used, -and quietly prevent anyone getting in the way. Some -Mohammedans carry this curious belief still further, -and imagine that in the next world a painter will be -surrounded not only by the souls he has thus appropriated, -but also by those he has created through the power -of imagination; but in any case, and whatever their -creed (though here and there a saint may frown), the -men of Tunis are always considerate and kindly. As -for the boys, they are a marvel—almost too good. The -magic word “<i>Balek</i>,” or a wave of the brush, keeps -them at a reasonable distance, and there they will -stand quietly watching for hours. The regular street-urchin -with his short striped coat and hood, his ready -basket, and his cry “<i>Portez, Portez</i>,” is just as virtuous -as the dainty little gentleman in silks and fine linen.</p> -<p>Only once did a difficulty occur, and that was in -the Place Halfaouine, where the story-tellers draw -such crowds. As we walked down the very untidy -picturesque Souk (it is a poor district), an unearthly -yell was heard, as a huge gaunt man leaped up from -a divan. His hair was matted, and he was so filthy -that lumps of dirt stood up on his bare legs, so there -could be no doubt that he was a saint. A small sketch-book -or a kodak excited his ire, and he dogged our -footsteps, circling round us like a bird of prey. When -we stopped he sat down uttering strange shouts or yells -from time to time. If we looked at anything or moved -the camera the yells became more fierce and insistent. -As he was obviously crazy and an extremely powerful -man, it would have been out of the question to upset his -holiness any further. So, as no story-telling was going -on, we turned back. He followed us up the bazaar, -under a running fire of half-jeering remarks from all -the shops, which troubled him not at all. His duty -was done: he had succeeded in getting rid of another -painter, and when he reached his own divan he cast -himself down with a final howl of relief, and we were -free once more.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig52"> -<img src="images/p051.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="799" /> -<p class="caption">SOUK EL HOUT, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_167">167</div> -<p>One statement often made in the Arab quarter -comes with rather a shock to insular prejudice. Sometimes -an Arab, but more often a Maltese, Indian, or -Levantine, in full national costume, says, “You Ingleez? -I Ingleez same as you,” and promptly relapses into -French, as those are the only words he knows of the -language which he claims as his own. It is usually -quite true, nevertheless, because even now they gain -security and protection by naturalisation, and formerly -it was their only safeguard.</p> -<p>In the Jewish quarter sketching is by no means so -easy as amongst the Mohammedans. Not from any -want of civility or friendliness, but from over-interest -and want of comprehension. Strangers are uncommon -and therefore exciting, a crowd soon gathers, and -becomes so dense that the victims are almost smothered. -One day a big smiling fellow came to the rescue and -proceeded to keep order in his own way: first with -<span class="pb" id="Page_168">168</span> -a stick, and, when that failed, with splashes of water -from a copper pot, which he replenished continually. -Naturally there was a tremendous outcry; the crowd -beat a hasty retreat, only to re-form immediately. It -took two men all their time, with much assistance from -gendarmes, to enable us to get that sketch finished, -whereas in the Souks one small boy was ample protection. -Another quarter is called “Little Malta,” and the -curious arrangement in black silk that the women wear, -half-hood, half-veil, is a picturesque addition to the -many national costumes seen in Tunis.</p> -<p>The Italians have also their own quarter, which -might be a fragment torn from Naples or Palermo, so -identical are the manners and mode of life. Even the -macaroni hanging out to dry is not forgotten. They -greatly outnumber the French, and have been a source -of considerable trouble, as Tunis was the refuge of -fugitive criminals from Italy and, indeed, all parts of -the Mediterranean. Although their advent is now -forbidden by law, and murderers are calmly returned -to their own countries, yet there are still enough -desperate characters left to make things difficult for the -authorities, who would like to keep up a pose of virtue -on behalf of all Europeans. In sober truth, however, -most of the frays and robberies are the work of the -mixed low-class population.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig53"> -<img src="images/p052.jpg" alt="" width="469" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">RUE TOURBET EL BEY, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_169">169</div> -<p>In Mohammedan Tunis, outside the Medina, perhaps -the most typical quarter is that of Bab Souika, of which -the Place Halfaouine, already mentioned, is the centre. -Full of cafés, it is the scene of wild excitement during -the month of Rhamadan, the great fast of the Mohammedans, -kept, it is said, because Adam wept for thirty -days when he was driven out of Paradise, before he -obtained God’s favour and pardon. The fast is so strict -that from sunrise to sunset no food whatever is taken, -not so much as a cup of coffee, or even a drop of water -on the hottest day, and smoking is also forbidden. -Then when the sunset gun is fired, feasting and revelry -begin, and are kept up all night. A certain gaiety and -good humour is visible at all times. There are as many -cafés as in the main street in Damascus, and in the afternoon -they are always full of men smoking, and playing -games. A young story-teller with the face of a monk -holds his audience entranced by his dramatic talent. -He not only tells his tales, but lives them. He has -an endless flow of words, and never pauses except for -effect. The listeners form a circle round him, either -standing or sitting on the ground, wholly absorbed -in the story. Snake charmers are his only rivals in -the afternoon, but at night dancing goes on in some -of the cafés.</p> -<p>Silk weaving and pottery are the industries of the -district: one long bazaar is given up to weavers, and -a row of queer, square shops to the sale of pottery. -Porous water-jars, beautiful in form—some plain, others -roughly decorated in dark lines, both wonderful for -cooling water by evaporation—cost only a few sous. -Green pottery for ordinary household use of a more -durable kind, designed with a most unusual quaintness, -is also to be had.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_170">170</div> -<p>Another open space, devoted to snake charmers and -a sort of rag fair, is to be found near Bab Djedid, the -finest of the old gates. Old rubbish of all sorts—brass -and iron, rugs, rags, glass and pottery, mostly broken—is -spread out on the ground, and behind each little heap -sits its watchful owner. A few women, usually Bedawin -or negresses, bring food and grain, which they pile up on -cloths, laid in the dust. Hither come all the strangers—men -from the country and the desert, and here again -the triumph of Tunis over all the cities of North Africa -in the matter of clothing, of all varieties of shape and -colour, is made manifest.</p> -<p>Here is no dull uniformity, no monotony, as in other -places. The well-known white folds of the burnous -may be admired once more, but raiment of camel’s-hair, -in tones of warm brown, quite alters the scheme -of colour. It is fashioned into a gandourah—a long, -hooded coat or shirt reaching to the knees. Sometimes, -however, the gandourah is hoodless, of a very dark -brown tint and braided with white. Again, it is often -striped in natural colours, or with threads of red and -blue, but occasionally plain dark-blue is seen. Very -often the wearers of brown burnouses might be taken -for Franciscans, but when blankets with stripes and -fringes are in question, no one but an Arab could arrange -them with such unconscious art.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig54"> -<img src="images/p053.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="653" /> -<p class="caption">RAG FAIR</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_171">171</div> -<p>Long draperies and floating folds may outshine the -Turkish dress of embroidered coat and vest, gay girdle, -and full, short trousers, supplemented by a cloak, but -it is equally popular. The same costume, without the -coat, in white or drab, is worn by pedlars and fruit-sellers. -Their legs are bare and their feet slippered; -socks and shoes are pure luxury. These fruit-sellers -are a joy. They own tiny donkeys, and lade them with -huge open panniers of sacking, or queer double twin-baskets, -lined with green, and filled with oranges in -winter, and by the end of April with apricots or -almonds. Fruit is both plentiful, cheap, and varied. -The province was once the Roman granary, and could -still do much for Europe in the way of luxuries, as well -as send over great supplies of corn and olives.</p> -<p>The cook-shops have also fascinations. They are all -dim and dark, mysterious with the smoke of ages and -the steam of the moment. Dim figures flit busily to -and fro, stirring strange ingredients in huge pans over -their charcoal fires. Coloured tiles give relief and gaiety -to the entrance, cover the stoves, and form a sort of -counter. In early morning the maker of pancakes has -it all his own way; at dinner-time he of the cous-couss -does a thriving trade, and at night, and all night through, -it is said there is a great sale for a special kind of -peppery soup.</p> -<p>The walls and gates on this the southern side of -Tunis are of great antiquity, and consist not only of the -original walls of the old town, but also of an outer circle -with five gates enclosing the suburb of El Djazira. -Within its boundaries are held horse and cattle markets, -which no doubt account for the variety of tribes and -costumes to be seen.</p> -<p>Through the outer gate come caravans from the -<span class="pb" id="Page_172">172</span> -desert, and camels laden with fodder and fuel. Men -and camels find a lodging in the many <i>fonduks</i> near the -Bab el Fellah—resting-places as primitive and patriarchal -as the caravans themselves.</p> -<p>From the hilltop outside the walls is a superb outlook -over the city, and also across the salt lake to the -mountain of Zaghouan, though for pure charm it is -outdone by the view from the park-like grounds of the -Belvedere, some distance out of town through the -curious double gate of El Khadra.</p> -<p>Only a few years ago the barren hillside was skilfully -laid out and planted with trees, and already the ground -is carpeted with wild flowers, and the eucalyptus has -reached a respectable height. The delicate grace of the -pepper trees and the silvery grey of the olive mingle -with masses of mimosa and acacia, Judas trees, and many -flowering shrubs, to give their own brightness, and fill -the air with perfume. So once more the country has a -chance of returning to its earlier aspect before the Arabs -cut down forests and olive groves for firewood, after -their usual extravagant custom.</p> -<p>It is a pleasant place truly in spring and in summer, -and the nearest refuge from the heat. Here many -jaded Tunisians linger in the comparative freshness -till long after midnight, though, being French, they -must needs have a theatre and casino to amuse them. -They have also transplanted and restored two Moorish -pavilions that were falling into ruins, owing to the -curious local custom by which no Bey, or exceptionally -rich man, may dwell in the same house in -which his predecessor died, but has to abandon it -entirely. Probably a survival of ancestor worship.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig55"> -<img src="images/p054.jpg" alt="" width="774" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE FRITTER SHOP, TUNIS</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_173">173</div> -<p>Whether the Arabs appreciate the ever-changing -beauty of their country or no, their descriptions never -vary. Tunis incontestibly merits the title of the -“white” as it stretches across the isthmus dividing the -stagnant lake of El Bahira from the salt lake, Sedjoumi. -It certainly might be “a diamond in an emerald frame,” -though a pearl would express the white wonder amongst -the green with more precision. As for the familiar -“burnous with the Casbah as the hood,” surely they -might have invented a new simile, though it is apt -enough.</p> -<p>The forts on the hills are no concern of theirs, for, -like the aqueduct in the plain, they are picturesque -legacies of Charles V. The harbour full of shipping -is a thing of to-day, and so is the modern town. La -Goulette (Halk el Oued, or the throat of the canal), -glittering at the further side of the lake, is of yesterday; -its importance gone with the new canal, but its Venetian -charm happily undimmed. Carthage and La Marsa, a -third lake towards Utica, El Ariana, the village of roses, -the holiday resort of the Jews, are all visible from the -gardens, the whole held tenderly in wide-reaching -embrace by the mountains and the sea.</p> -<p>The new town, which starts from the Porte de -France in such imposing fashion, a wide, straight -avenue bordered by flowering acacias, reaches its finest -point where the Residency fronts the Cathedral across -some gardens, then gradually diminishes in grandeur -<span class="pb" id="Page_174">174</span> -till it ends in a collection of huts, cabarets, and warehouses -standing on untidy wharves.</p> -<p>Twenty years ago, so an old officer told us, the land -was a desolate morass, unspeakably dirty. Now it is a -flourishing city, and though fault may be found with -the style of the building on account of the want of -shelter from heat and glare, and the unsuitability of -such high houses in case of earthquake, these are minor -details. The great need now is for some system of -draining the Bahira, which has received the filth of -ages, and takes its revenge in sending in hot weather -and in certain winds a truly terrible smell to torment -the city. It is an unaccountable fact that some perfect -quality in air or soil fights against this evil and overcomes -it, keeping the city free from epidemics and -noted for its general healthiness.</p> -<p>The harbour has as yet a very unfinished appearance. -The native boats with lateen sails are its great attraction, -though ships of all nations and considerable -tonnage can now approach the quays. Gay little -scenes occur when the fish comes in, or when timber is -being landed by gangs of Arabs wading in the still -water; for all that is evil in this remarkable lake is -hidden by the calm loveliness of a lagoon.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig56"> -<img src="images/p055.jpg" alt="" width="692" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">UNLADING WOOD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_175">175</div> -<p>What is known to the Tunisians as <i>les chaleurs</i>, or -real summer heat, sets in towards the end of May or -beginning of June. With the heat come many changes. -The town Moors drop their many cloaks and display -the wealth of silk and embroidery usually hidden. -The men from the country wear yard-wide steeple-crowned -hats over their turbans; for if the burning sun -is trying in the city, what must it be in the country, -where no cool shadows offer shelter? The Europeans, -soldiers and civilians alike, appear in white, and the -tyranny of the shirt collar is ended with the coming of -sun helmets and umbrellas. Ladies don their thinnest -muslins, and do not venture out before the evening. -Everyone seeks the shade except the Italian women, -who will stand bareheaded, idly swinging their closed -parasols, where no Arab would keep them company.</p> -<p>A scirocco or wind from the desert intensifies the -heat to an unbearable degree, night brings no relief, and -this burning blast may last three, five, or nine days; -and a nine days’ scirocco is an experience to be remembered. -A resident gave us this warning encouragement: -“If you stay till June and come in for a bad scirocco -you will think you will die, but you won’t.” The -sensation of misery could hardly be better expressed: -one gasps for breath, sleep is impossible, and the only -tolerable moments are those passed quite close to an -electric fan. Plants and trees shrivel up, so that the -gardens look as if they had been actually burnt. The -country is scarcely cooler than the town, and at the -seaside there is little relief, as four or five degrees’ -difference does not help much when the thermometer -is once over 100° Fahrenheit.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_179">179</div> -<h2 id="c11">CHAPTER XI -<br /><span class="small">CARTHAGE</span></h2> -<p>The realm of the Queen of the Seas is now desolate—desolate, -but untouched by sadness. Tragedy and -doom are hidden beneath the brightness of summer -flowers and the promise of an abundant harvest. -The ruins that remain are not fine enough in themselves -to call forth memories of a glorious past. The -greatness is gone. Nothing is now left to speak of -bygone ages with an insistent voice; nothing strong -enough to break down the dulness and create an interest -in ancient history. Those who expect to have their -historic sense awakened and quickened by the sight, -turn empty and disappointed away, for all enjoyment -rises from the dreams and imagination born of some -knowledge or wide reading, and not from what Carthage -can now show; for the Phœnician city was so -utterly destroyed by the Romans under Scipio in the -year 146 <span class="sc">B.C.</span> that the plough was driven over the site. -Subsequently city after city rose from the same ground -to be destroyed almost as entirely. Columns and -capitals from the Roman, Vandal, and Byzantine cities -<span class="pb" id="Page_180">180</span> -may be seen in Tunis, Kairouan, and Sicily, and even -so far away as Italy and Spain. Here there are few -left.</p> -<p>Traces of the original city are still harder to find, -and must be sought far below the earth’s surface under -successive layers of ruins and soil. Three mosaic pavements -of different periods have often been discovered -one below the other, whilst the foundations of Punic -temples and inscriptions in that language thus buried -still show signs of fire. The story of Carthage is also -shrouded in mystery; even the date of its foundation -is uncertain. All that is known is that in the dawn of -history, when the Israelites took possession of Palestine, -the Canaanites retreated to Tyre and Sidon, and there -built up a mighty state. From these two cities daring -mariners set forth in frail coasting vessels to found -settlements in Asia Minor, Greece, Africa, and Spain, -extending their voyages of discovery in later times, -gathering riches and treasures from the distant ends of -the then known world.</p> -<p>One of the earliest of these colonies was the city of -Utica, and probably when Dido arrived in Africa (if -she ever did), after her flight from the cruelty and -treachery of the Tyrian king, there were already other -cities on the plain. Her taste and judgment must have -been equal to her beauty and artfulness when she -chose this spot for her city of refuge, and beguiled the -inhabitants into granting her the land that the traditional -oxhide would cover; for the situation is as -lovely as any on the north coast of Africa, the harbour -good, and the country rich. The colony was known at -first as Kirjath-Hadeschath, or New Town, to distinguish -it from the older city of Utica. The Greek name -was Karchedon, and the Romans called it Carthago.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig57"> -<img src="images/p056.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="366" /> -<p class="caption">THE ANCIENT PORTS OF CARTHAGE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_181">181</div> -<p>Strangely enough we depend on the enemies of -Carthage for accounts of her history, as, with few -exceptions, her own records were destroyed. No great -poems are left, no annals, nothing remains but a few -inscriptions, some fragments, and the three treaties with -Rome. The Roman narratives are tinged with envy -and hatred, yet even so the fame of Carthage stands -out clearly, and the deeds of her sons, both as sailors -and soldiers, surpass those of other days and other -peoples. What admirals of any time would so gallantly -have dared such a voyage in small vessels as did -Hanno, who almost reached the equator from the -north coast of Africa, or Himilco, who, in a four -months’ voyage, “keeping to his left the great shoreless -ocean on which no ship had ever ventured, where the -breeze blows not, but eternal fogs rest upon its lifeless -waters,” discovered the Scilly Isles, Ireland, and the -wide isle of Albion? These admirals have left records -of their doings which still exist. Generals more famous -still, vied with each other in their country’s service, -fighting bravely on in face of neglect and want of -support, knowing that success met with scant praise, -and that failure meant death if they returned to the -capital. Such names as Hamilcar Barca and the still -greater Hannibal recall to memory the tales of the -genius of those who upheld her power.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_182">182</div> -<p>Yet for all this Carthage was no warlike city, but -was given over to the arts of peace, to the pursuit and -enjoyment of wealth. It was a city of merchant princes, -an oligarchy like that of Venice in later times, and the -Romans were astounded at the luxury and beauty of the -buildings and the far-spreading suburbs.</p> -<p>Agriculture was apparently a favourite pursuit, as a -treatise on the subject, in twenty-eight books, was -written by Mago, who was called by the Romans the -father of husbandry. This book they saved from -the general destruction of Carthaginian literature and -translated into their own language. Varro, whose own -work on ancient agriculture is the most valuable we -possess, quotes Mago as the highest authority.</p> -<p>As the city was looted and the treasures carried to -Rome it is idle to expect to find anything very noteworthy -to show the Carthaginian skill in art. But the -White Fathers have in their museum a large collection -of bronzes and pottery, and a few jewels of all periods, -some of them of peculiar interest because of the strong -resemblance between the Punic designs and those of -Egypt. Many of the gods are the same, and sacred -eyes and scarabs are plentiful. Curious bulbous vessels, -used as feeding-bottles for babies, have faces roughly -painted on them, the spout taking the place of a mouth. -The bronzes have much in common with those of -Pompeii, and some fine tombs with full-sized figures -might be Greek. The garden of the Monastery is also -full of fine fragments and inscriptions, and stands on -the brow of the hill that was once the Byrsa, and is -now known as the hill of St. Louis. It faces the Gulf -of Tunis, charming in outline, glorious in light, and -full of colour.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig58"> -<img src="images/p057.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="622" /> -<p class="caption">THE OLD PUNIC CISTERNS, CARTHAGE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_183">183</div> -<p>The twin peaks of Bou Korneïne, the Gemini -Scopuli of Virgil, soft as a dream in the early morning, -are the distinctive beauty of the curve of the bay to the -right. On the other side rise the heights of Sidi Bou -Saïd, or Cap Carthage. The Mediterranean and the -lagoon of the Bahira, “the little sea,” or lake of Tunis, -are of a wondrous blue, the water shimmers in the -sunshine, the town of La Goulette gleams likewise, and -so do the houses scattered along the coast. The slopes -of the hill and the whole of the plain towards the sea -are covered, as it were, with cloth of scarlet and gold -and green, poppies and marigolds and waving corn, in -masses such as can rarely be found elsewhere. The -ancient ports of Carthage, now so reduced in size, still -retain something of their original form. The military -harbour is circular, with an island in the centre where -the admiral once dwelt. These tiny lakes, calm as -glass, and almost more definitely blue than the Mediterranean -itself, hardly suggest themselves as the busy -harbours of the Queen of the Seas, but look rather, as a -French author says, like the lakes of an English garden.</p> -<p>Here and there shapeless masses of masonry can be -seen scattered over the plain, either hardly visible under -the living veil of green, or showing like scars, but there -is nothing that is in any way an addition to the picture. -The view on all sides is beautiful, which is more than -can be said by the most charitable of the buildings -<span class="pb" id="Page_184">184</span> -which crown the hill. Neither the Cathedral of -Cardinal Lavigerie, the Chapel of St. Louis, nor the -Monastery are worthy of their position in style or treatment. -On a bare hillside it might be possible to conjure -up fine temples and stirring scenes, to imagine the -terrors of the last days of the siege, and the heroic death -of the wife of Hasdrubal. Now even St. Louis is too -picturesque a figure for the prevailing commonplace, and -it would be almost a relief to think that he died at -Sousse, as some people suppose.</p> -<p>One remarkable work, and one only, has survived all -the changes and chances in the life of Carthage, and -still endures to show that the vast size of the original -city was in no wise exaggerated. Not only have the -aqueduct and cisterns outlasted all the other buildings, -but they have been restored, and once more fulfil their -purpose, bringing fresh spring-water to a thirsty city—no -longer indeed to Carthage, but to the equally ancient -and still flourishing Tunis.</p> -<p>Modern Tunis does not require nearly as much -water as the greater Carthage, so that only the smaller -group of cisterns, lying near the sea and the ruined -baths, is now in use. These cisterns are eighteen in -number, and can only be called small by comparison, as -they are said to be 135 mètres long, and hold nearly -30,000 cubic mètres of water.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig59"> -<img src="images/p058.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="625" /> -<p class="caption">THE CARTHAGE AQUEDUCT</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_185">185</div> -<p>The larger group is quite ruinous, and is broken -down in the midst, forming an open space on to which -the cisterns face, built as they are in parallel rows. -Here the Bedawin dwell who have turned the Punic -cisterns into the Arab village of La Malga. These -underground homes are supposed to be far superior to -tents or huts, as they are cool in summer, and warm and -dry in winter. They look like vaulted halls, as the -lower half has become filled with soil, and they are -closed at the ruinous ends by rough wooden walls and -doors. At any rate if not quite ideal dwellings, they -are picturesque and at least unusual. Though there are -many theories on the subject, the design and much of -the actual work is considered to be Phœnician, though -considerably restored and in part rebuilt by the -Romans. Some authorities find traces of Punic work -in the aqueduct also, others suppose that the Carthaginians -used the cisterns merely to store rain-water, and -think that the Romans, when they defied the curse and -rebuilt the city, found the water-supply insufficient, and -therefore made an aqueduct in the reign of Hadrian, -<span class="sc">A.D.</span> 117-138. It underwent many disasters, and was -partially destroyed and rebuilt over and over again. -First, the Vandals, under Gilimer, did their worst to it, -and Belisarius restored the damage; then the Byzantines -had their turn, and it was put in order by their Arab -conquerors, only to be again injured by the Spaniards. -Finally, some part of it began useful life once more -under a French engineer in the reign of Sidi Saduk, the -late Bey.</p> -<p>One spring still rises in the Nymphea, or temple of -the waters, amongst rocks and trees and flowers at -Zaghouan, Mons. Zeugitanus, and the other is brought -from Djebel Djouggar, Mons. Zuccharus. The great -<span class="pb" id="Page_186">186</span> -aqueduct stretches out like a chain connecting the -mountains and the plain—a chain of massive links, -sadly broken and often interrupted in its long course of -over sixty Roman miles. The channel is carried down -the mountain-side, sometimes over and sometimes -under the ground, and on the plains it is often raised on -immense piers. Near Carthage it has been broken up -and entirely destroyed, and the water has then to find its -way through ordinary modern pipes.</p> -<p>There is a look of grandeur and beauty about the -ruined arches, as they are seen rising from the sunny, -flowery fields, that is usually wasted on an unappreciative -world, as few drive far enough out from Tunis to -enjoy the sight.</p> -<p>At Carthage the masses of flowers give a certain -charm to ruins of no intrinsic beauty. Brilliant marigolds -crowd every nook and cranny in the Punic tombs, -shedding the glory of their golden life over the dreary -maze of catacombs, where formerly the dead rested, but -which are now bare and empty; though in another -district one curious tomb, formed of three solid blocks -of stones, in form like the beginning of a house of cards, -is built with a few others in the side of a shadeless, -barren cliff. Flowers fringe and cover the Basilica, -surround the newly excavated Roman villa, contrasting -daintily with the broken columns and mosaic pavements, -and touch with their brightness the elliptical outlines of -the Roman amphitheatre, where many Christian martyrs -suffered for the Faith. Of these St. Nemphanion was -the first (<span class="sc">A.D.</span> 198), though the best known and most -<span class="pb" id="Page_187">187</span> -loved are Saint Perpetua, and Saint Felicita, to whom -the little chapel in the centre is dedicated.</p> -<p>The flowers harmonise with thoughts of the young -and beautiful widow who gave up child and wealth, -and who herself wrote of her joy and suffering in prison. -She tells us of her vision of a golden ladder, beset with -swords and lances, and guarded by a dragon, whom she -quelled in the name of Christ, and so mounted to a -heavenly garden, where a white-haired shepherd, surrounded -by his flock, gave her a welcome and a piece of -cheese, whilst thousands of forms in white garments -said “Amen.” The vision foretold her martyrdom, -which took place between <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 203 and 206. According -to a custom peculiar to Carthage—a relic of old -Phœnician days when human sacrifices were offered -to Baal-Moloch, and men worshipped the horned -Astarte—the men were expected to wear scarlet robes, -like the priests of Saturn, and the women yellow, after -the fashion of the priestesses of Ceres—a reason perhaps -for the wealth of scarlet and yellow blossoms that now -flourish so abundantly. The Christians refused, saying -that they suffered in order to avoid such rites, and the -justice of the plea was allowed.</p> -<p>A cross marks the spot on a little hill between La -Malga and the Byrsa where St. Cyprian was beheaded in -<span class="sc">A.D.</span> 258. An interesting fact, to which Archbishop -Benson calls attention in his Life of Cyprian, is that long -before any Bishop of Rome appears with the title of -Papa, or Pope, in any sense, it was used as a formal -mode of address to Cyprian by the clergy of Rome. -<span class="pb" id="Page_188">188</span> -And it is clear from the history of his times that there -was then no idea of Papal supremacy, but that, on the -contrary, the Bishop of Carthage once at least overruled -the decision of the Bishop of Rome.</p> -<p>Strange as it seems now, with Mohammedanism all -around, Christian Carthage became in its turn a great -power, with a long line of bishops, whilst North Africa -not only counted some six hundred Episcopal sees, but -also produced such famous men as Tertullian, Cyprian, -Lactantius, and Augustine. Nothing is now left anywhere -except the ruins of three or four basilicas, some -lamps with Christian emblems, and a few inscriptions.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig60"> -<img src="images/p059.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="388" /> -<p class="caption">THE SITE OF CARTHAGE FROM SIDI BOU SAÏD</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_189">189</div> -<p>To see all the ruins at Carthage is no light matter. -Distances are so great, and there is such a dearth of -conspicuous landmarks to guide the search. The nine -miles’ drive from Tunis is mostly considered very -monotonous, as the road itself is straight and dull, though -the beauty of the mountains and the lake, the flush of -scarlet from the flamingoes in its marshy edges, the -marvels of the flower-clad meadows, the dark tents -of the nomads, and the picturesque workers in the -fields, are surely enough to make even a longer distance -seem short. The first impression is altogether finer if -it is gained by driving through the country to the gay -villas of La Marsa, and so up the hill to Sidi Bou Saïd, -than by taking the railway and then walking from point -to point. The Arab town of Sidi Bou Saïd is so holy -a place that no unbelievers were formerly allowed to -live there, hardly even to walk its streets, and yet the -saint after whom it is called is no other than St. Louis -of France, the Crusader who died of pestilence before -the walls of Tunis. The Mohammedans, however, -believe that he adopted their religion, died and was -buried in this village, showing how even his enemies -admired his saintliness, and also that the God whom -both worshipped was the same God as Mohammed -always taught. The small town is piled up on the -highest point of the hill in true Oriental fashion, and -from the lighthouse on the summit the view is superb, -with the Mediterranean almost surrounding the cape. -The whole site of the ancient city is visible, from the -rocky headlands in front to the distant town of La -Goulette on the promontory that separates the open sea -from the lake; a wide sweep of plain, the many low -hills, the Byrsa marked by the whiteness of the new -Cathedral, the whole circle of mountains, the summer -villages gleaming at their feet, Tunis, the villas and -gardens of La Marsa, the site of Utica, now more -desolate than Carthage itself, the beautiful line of cliffs -towards Bizerta—all combine to give some idea of the -possibilities and beauties of ancient Carthage.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_193">193</div> -<h2 id="c12">CHAPTER XII -<br /><span class="small">SOUSSE AND EL DJEM</span></h2> -<p>A refreshing uncertainty, almost amounting to a -touch of adventure, gives zest to plans for a trip -southwards. Beyond the one undisputed fact that the -inn at Sousse leaves nothing to be desired, information -is vague and scanty.</p> -<p>The journey opens in a fashion that promises much. -There are only two trains in the day, and both are -inconvenient. One starts too early and the other too -late. The railway carriages with their narrow seats and -hard cushions proclaim by sheer discomfort the unfrequented -route and the dearth of travellers. The -windows, that are either wide open or shut, but know -no happy mean, guarantee a pleasing alternative of cold -or stuffiness, for it soon becomes impossible to hold a -heavy frame perpetually at a proper height.</p> -<p>It is delightful to feel that all sorts of possibilities -lie hidden in the immediate future, and that the -rate of progress already lifts the journey out of the -commonplace. It is slow enough to be phenomenal, -and gives time not only for observation but for quiet -<span class="pb" id="Page_194">194</span> -meditation on every detail of the landscape before it -disappears.</p> -<p>There is no objection to this for some distance out -of Tunis, as the route is pretty. The line skirts the -edge of the bay, passing through the gay watering-places -full of sunshine and flowers that lie at the foot -of Bou Korneïne. During the sunset hour, when the -plains are flooded with glory, the train might stop -entirely, and welcome. But when the last tint of -colour has vanished and no consolation is left, then -the long, purposeless halts at wayside stations become -exasperating. It does seem wasteful to spend so much -time over so short a distance.</p> -<p>When morning comes, this mood flies away at the -unexpected sight of a mediæval town on the opposite -side of the harbour; for Sousse follows the Tunisian -fashion, and the French colony dwells apart. The old -town stands on a gentle rise beside the waters of the -Mediterranean, a complete survival from the Middle -Ages. Not grey and timeworn like our northern -strongholds, but radiant in the sunshine, a mass of -glittering white, crowned and girdled by gold—towers -and bastions and crenellated walls. The reflection of -these old-world defences in the calm waters below is -almost as brilliant as the reality.</p> -<p>In the evening a change comes over the spirit of the -place, the brightness fades away and is succeeded by a -gentle melancholy, a slight film, the dimness of age, as -if the warriors of bygone times returned at sundown -to hover over their old castle, full of unavailing regret -that their day is over, and that from the topmost -battlements an alien flag now floats.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig61"> -<img src="images/p060.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="600" /> -<p class="caption">SOUSSE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_195">195</div> -<p>Sousse, under its old title of Hadrumetum, has a -quite respectable antiquity. Sallust mentions it as a -Phœnician colony of older date than Carthage. Under -the Emperor Trajan it became a Roman colony, the -capital of the Byzacene or mid-Tunisia. No one knows -when or how it received the name of Sousse, and even -the fact of its being Hadrumetum at all was once a -matter of dispute. Hercha and Hammamet are both -supposed by some to have a better claim to the distinction, -and Ruspina has been given as the original -name of Sousse. It fell into the hands of the Normans -from Sicily during the twelfth century, but has -otherwise remained a Moslem fortress from their first -invasion to the time of the French occupation in 1881.</p> -<p>Now the French colony seems bright and prosperous, -and the inhabitants talk more cheerfully of their fate -than usual; for there is much to do, and the recently -opened harbour is a great improvement, as formerly -the roadstead was defenceless in certain prevalent winds, -and now ships can ride safely at anchor and take in -immense cargoes of corn and oil, the staple produce of -the district.</p> -<p>Once within the old gates the Arab town, though -most picturesque, shows little that is distinctive. It -possesses narrow Eastern streets, whiter even than -usual, and small bazaars, after the manner of Tunis, -but with no individuality of their own. Tunis, Algiers, -and Constantine have so much character that their -<span class="pb" id="Page_196">196</span> -identity could hardly be mistaken by anyone who knew -the tokens, even if he were dropped unawares into one -of their streets. The architecture, the colour, and the -appearance of the inhabitants are all so different in -type.</p> -<p>From every side Sousse presents a striking picture, -and from the towers of the Casbah the view over the -sunny terraces to the wondrous blue of the bay and -the soft green of the olives is beautiful. But the only -building that is really curious in the town itself is the -Kahwat el Koubba, or café of the dome, a small -Byzantine basilica. Unfortunately, it is so built into -the bazaar that it is difficult to see its peculiarities. It -is quite square for rather more than the height of a -man from the ground, then round for the same distance, -and has a fluted dome.</p> -<p>The rue Halfaouine, the street where pottery is sold -and mats are made, is quainter than in Tunis, for there -the two trades work separately. These men were very -busy, and with one exception had not the slightest -objection to being watched or painted. The one man -who did object wore the green turban of the descendants -of the Prophet, and built up an elaborate screen of plaits -to hide himself. He soon forgot his dread, gradually -used up the plaits, and forgot to replace them.</p> -<p>Granted a little patience with the shortcomings of -the train service and it is no trouble to see Sousse, but -the excursion to El Djem is quite another matter. -Until quite lately difficulties strewed the path, and the -drive alone took one long day or even two. Now, -thanks to the introduction of a postal motor-car -service, the journey between Sousse and Sfax is smooth -enough.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig62"> -<img src="images/p061.jpg" alt="" width="771" height="700" /> -<p class="caption">THE BASKET-MAKERS, SOUSSE</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_197">197</div> -<p>The shaky old diligence still runs for the benefit of -second- and third-class passengers, and takes a wearisome -time about the journey, which the motor accomplishes -in rather more than three hours. This motor is a -heavy, but very roomy vehicle, somewhat like a coach -with six places inside, two beside the driver and more -on the roof, and moves with the steady, resistless force -of great weight. As a rule, all the seats are taken -some days beforehand, for there is much coming and -going of business men between Sousse and Sfax; but -we were lucky enough to secure ours after only two -days, and to have only one other passenger in the -interior, which meant heaps of space and a clear view -with no intervening heads. The straightness of the -road is at first mitigated by the beauty of the old olive -trees, but when these give place to new plantations, the -young trees and bushes are so few and far between that -they only accentuate the dreariness of the landscape. -Still, a look of wellbeing is coming over the land, and -if all goes well, the arid plains will once again become -fruitful, and the mischief wrought by El Kahina, the -celebrated chieftainness of the Aures, who destroyed -all the farms and villages, will be remembered no more. -Formerly the whole country from Tripoli to Tangiers -was wooded and fertile, but the destruction of the -forests has given the land its present inhospitable -character, so that where twenty inhabitants flourished -<span class="pb" id="Page_198">198</span> -in Roman times, it was hard work for one man to get a -living, till the French came and began to restore the -ancient order.</p> -<p>One village of importance, and one only, breaks the -monotony of the route, and the motor passes through -its narrow streets, which it almost fits, hooting and -scattering the people right and left, shaking them out -of their dreamy ways with its message of speed and -progress. Yet though some grumble more admire.</p> -<p>Even on this frequented road, where the motor -passes twice daily, the same amusing precautions are -taken by the Arabs as at Hammam Meskoutine. The -camels are ridden off into the plains, carts are dragged -to the side of the road, and the horses’ heads covered -up—even the donkeys are held very tight. And if -any man is too sleepy to attend to them, his animals -give him enough to do to pacify them after the horror -has passed.</p> -<p>After this village the olives disappear. Nothing -is visible but a wide plain, literally carpeted with wild -flowers, mostly common ones, but exquisite from pure -abundance of colour. Amongst them are masses of -small purple gladiolus, the most beautiful flower of -them all.</p> -<p>For miles ahead the road stretches out straight as a -gigantic ruler, diminishing in perfect perspective to a -vanishing point on the horizon, the effect enhanced by -the slight undulations of the plain. The road is -without shade or trees, there are not even villages to be -seen, only a few Bedawin camps, and an occasional house -<span class="pb" id="Page_199">199</span> -surrounded by fragrant mimosa and olive trees, the -dwellings of the French road-surveyor. Innumerable -traces of the Roman occupation are to be found on -every side, ruined farms, old walls, and fragments of -buildings, showing that this must have been almost as -densely populated as the district between Hadrumetum -(Sousse) and Carthage, which, as a Roman historian -tells us, was shaded for the whole length of the road by -villas and beautiful gardens.</p> -<p>At last, dimly discernible in the distance, a vast -form rises, desolate and alone upon the earth, a forlorn -relic of Roman splendour, the African rival of the -Colosseum at Rome—the amphitheatre of El Djem. -It is only a few feet smaller than its great original, is -built on the same lines, is of the same massive breadth, -and what it loses in actual measurement is regained by -its isolated position. A building of such proportions -is sufficiently impressive in the heart of a famous city, -but out here in the wilderness the effect is overwhelming. -The very existence of such a huge place of -amusement so far from the present haunts of men, on a -spot so bereft of all visible means of supporting a city -large enough to send 60,000 spectators to witness the -games, is strange, almost unthinkable. The land, of -course, is good, but water is not here in any abundance, -and there is no stone in the neighbourhood—the fine -white limestone used in the building having all been -brought from Sallecta on the coast.</p> -<p>Nothing now remains but this, the wonder of North -Africa, of the whole city of Thyrsus mentioned by -<span class="pb" id="Page_200">200</span> -Pliny and Ptolemy, except a half-buried Corinthian -capital of colossal size, a road, fragments of a villa, -some baths and a few mosaics, all more or less hidden -and much scattered among the olives.</p> -<p>The Proconsul Gordian rebelled against Maximin, -and was proclaimed Emperor at the age of eighty, at -Thyrsus in <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 238, about the time of the building of -the amphitheatre, which is sometimes supposed to have -been his work as Emperor. But this could hardly be, -as he was defeated in battle, and died by his own hand -within two months.</p> -<p>The amphitheatre was looked upon by the Arabs as -a place of refuge in troublous times, and was often used -as a fortress. It is called Kasr el Kahina, or Palace of -the Sorceress, after the celebrated El Kahina, of whom -many legends are told. When she was besieged in this -singular castle of hers, she caused subterranean passages -to be made to the sea coast at Sallecta, and had this -done on so large a scale that several horsemen could -ride through them abreast. The Arabs believe firmly -in these marvellous passages, but the entrance to them -has not yet been found. However, later on, another -siege had to be raised, because the defenders were so -well supplied that they mockingly threw down fresh fish -to the besiegers, who were already suffering from want -of food.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig63"> -<img src="images/p062.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="410" /> -<p class="caption">THE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE, EL DJEM</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_201">201</div> -<p>In modern times the great breach made in one of the -sieges has been enlarged by the Arabs, who used it as a -quarry, and built their large village beneath its shelter -entirely out of the spoils. Now this quarrying has been -stopped by law, happily in time, and the breach, overgrown -as it is with moss and plants, only serves to make -the ruin more beautiful as it lies among the prickly -pears and olives. On the side nearest the village, however, -it is in such good preservation, and the four -galleries are so perfect, that with the regularity comes a -certain loss of picturesqueness. The village is quite unusual: -the stolen stone has been used as if it were mud, -the houses are built like huts with large walled courts, -and big doors, which are defended by barking dogs.</p> -<p>The men are indifferent to strangers, but the children, -pretty as they are, become a positive torment. They -have learnt the value of a <i>petit sou</i>, and keep up a -never-ending litany in the vain hope of obtaining one. -This comes of the bad habit of throwing coins from the -automobile for the pleasure of seeing a scramble.</p> -<p>In the evening some sort of a fête was on hand, -absolutely different to any we had seen. Bowers had -been built, flags and greenery were festooned across the -street, and in one large booth, covered with green, a -crowd was gathered to watch a performance of howling -dervishes, probably Aïssaouas. A long row of men -and boys with streaming hair were working themselves -into a state of frenzy, with violent rhythmic movements -of their heads, as they threw them backwards and forwards, -and panted like steam-engines. There were also -groups of masqueraders with unearthly masks, pretending -to be animals and going on all fours, and a mock -bridal party with a soldier arrayed as the bride, his feet -and gaiters alone betraying him.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_202">202</div> -<p>There is no inn of any sort, so travellers stay at -the school, which is also the post-office. The French -schoolmaster, his wife, and a little girl, are the only -Europeans in the place, though it contains one Jew and -one Maltese—so Oriental as not to count.</p> -<p>The school is an old building, once the house of a -Bey; it was then a big open cloister. Now walls, doors, -windows, and partitions have been added to form large -double cells, vaulted as in a monastery, but with horse-shoe -arches. These cells are scantily furnished, so that -they look both bare and spacious. Once they were -used for storing gunpowder, which has left the walls -sadly discoloured. In fact, the appearance of the house -was well in keeping with predictions which we had -received about roughing it; but we found that instead -of starving, the meals were quite elegant, consisting of -many courses, and including such luxuries as chicken, -lamb, and quails. The bread was very dry, and there -was no butter; but much experience had foreseen that -difficulty, and jam, biscuits, and tea travelled with us. -The schoolmaster was silent, but contented. His wife, -however, suffered much from the loneliness; for the -small doings of the household, teaching a native servant -and superintending the cooking, could not fill her life. -She was pining for friends and sympathy, and her -nearest neighbours, a detachment of soldiers, lived -fourteen or fifteen miles away. The diligence and the -motor cars alone brought variety, and they passed -quickly with some pleasant bustle, and then silence came -once more. The school itself is a success: the boys -<span class="pb" id="Page_203">203</span> -seem to learn well, and are eager to air their French and -pick up new ideas.</p> -<p>At night, even when the little garrison has been -raised to five, there is a strange eerie feeling of loneliness, -which camping somehow does not give. The -great doors are bolted and barred, the watch-dog is on -duty in the court, which the moonlight makes almost -as light as day, brightening the treasured but miserable -garden with its tender touch. All is made perfectly -safe. Yet the thought recurs insistently, what could -one man do, should anything rouse the hundreds of -half-wild Arabs in the village out of their ordinary -quiet hatred? A life of this sort is only possible -where the fascination of the East is strongly felt; but -for a poor woman like this, out of sympathy with -the country, its people and their ways, it is little short -of martyrdom.</p> -<p>Quiet is not a feature of the nights at El Djem. -Every house in the village owns several dogs, and the -only dog that does not seem to bark all night is the dog -at the school. As for the cocks, they begin to crow at -bed-time and keep it up till morning. Jackals and an -occasional hyena swell the chorus. Then in the small -hours the diligence arrives, with rattle and rumble -along the road and a thunderous knocking at the -great door, till the whole household is awake to give -it welcome.</p> -<p>The motor appears at the respectable hour of nine in -the morning, and manages with infinite cleverness to -catch the mid-day train to Kairouan, although it should -<span class="pb" id="Page_204">204</span> -have started before the time at which the motor arrives. -There is so much leisure and so little punctuality that, -with friendly assistance, seats are taken, luggage -registered, and lunch purchased before the train finally -starts.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig64"> -<img src="images/p063.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="370" /> -<p class="caption">EVENING, KAIROUAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_207">207</div> -<h2 id="c13">CHAPTER XIII -<br /><span class="small">THE SACRED CITY</span></h2> -<p>Seven visits to the sacred city of Kairouan are equivalent -for the devout Mussulman to one pilgrimage to Mecca. -A pleasant alternative for those who wish to gain a high -degree of sanctity at a small cost, for since the railway -simplified the journey there are neither terrors nor -difficulties to overcome.</p> -<p>Picturesque hill towns are passed on the way, and -also the first of the chain of <i>Chotts</i>, or shallow salt lakes, -almost or quite dry in summer, strange reminders of -the time when the Mediterranean penetrated the desert -as far as Biskra. Plans have often been proposed for -letting in the water again from the Gulf of Gabès to -the Ziban. But though in some ways this might -bring added prosperity, in others the change of climate -would probably spell ruin. The date harvest at Gafsa -and Gabès would be spoilt, and most likely that of -Biskra and Tougourt as well.</p> -<p>The Tunisian oases vie with, if they do not surpass, -those of Algeria, but they are little visited, partly -because it is not the fashion, but much more in consequence -<span class="pb" id="Page_208">208</span> -of the discomforts to be faced, as travellers -are mostly dependent on their own resources, a native -<i>fonduk</i>, or the kindness of some French officer. The -<i>fonduks</i> by all accounts are intolerably dirty, and -sleep has to be snatched during a lull in the noisy talk, -in the corner of a crowded space, with a portmanteau -for a pillow, the mud floor and a rug by way of bed. -No food or refreshment are offered except coffee. The -inns when they exist give rise to pathetic tales of food -and dirt. Birds apparently made of india-rubber, quite -black and utterly impervious to the blunt knives, pose -as chicken, the eggs are of untold age, and the bread -sour. Cous-couss is the best thing; it is not at all a bad -variety of stew when well made, rather like curry, but -laid on a bed of semolina instead of rice, with a very -hot, piquant sauce. The number of ingredients is -always rather mysterious, and when ill-made it is -horribly greasy.</p> -<p>These various drawbacks make even the excursion -to the fine Roman ruins of Sbeitla too uncomfortable -without a camp, as it is a two days’ ride from Kairouan. -The road is supposed to be fit for carriages, but owing -to the badness of the track, a strong country cart -cannot stand the strain, and is always coming to grief, -or losing a wheel at critical moments, so that a rider -finds he has chosen the better part. Then it is rather -a shock to be told on the return journey, with many -miles yet to travel and darkness coming on apace, that -no Frenchman considers this district safe without a -revolver loaded and ready to hand.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_209">209</div> -<p>Altogether it is decidedly annoying as well as -disappointing, because drawings and photographs of -curious places and buildings make the longing for -adventure in the wilder regions so strong as to be -almost unbearable. There are houses at Tozeur with -decorative façades, built with raised designs in projecting -sun-dried brick. At Matmata and Douïrat the -Troglodytes dwell in rock-hewn cells, forming hill -cities cut out of, not built on, castellated crags, whilst -at Medénine the houses are built one above the other, -five stories high, with doors that serve as windows. -Most of these houses are reached by climbing up on -jutting stones built into the wall, which, even with the -assistance of a cord, needs a steady head, though a few -have the luxury of an outside staircase.</p> -<p>There is great consolation in the thought that until -quite lately Kairouan itself was almost a sealed book, -for travellers could only see it when provided with -an escort and a special permission, and these were -not sufficient to admit them to the mosques, or to -protect them from insult or stones in the streets, so -that little joy came from a visit even so late as 1888.</p> -<p>Now the nervous need have no misgivings, as the -train crawls like a snail over the barren waste, redeemed -from desolation by the flowers, more glorious than ever -in contrast with the monotonous brown-hued desert -framed by distant mountains.</p> -<p>The old walls that encircle Kairouan, with their -tones of dusty brown, blend with the plain they rise -from, and would be invisible at a little distance were it -<span class="pb" id="Page_210">210</span> -not for the white minarets and domes within their -bounds, which stand out clear-cut as a cameo against -the blue of the sky, the purple of the hills, and the -faded tints of the soil.</p> -<p>Tradition says that in the year fifty-five of the -Hegira (675 <span class="sc">A.D.</span>) this was a vast forest, almost -impenetrable, and full of wild and terrible beasts of prey -and still more alarming serpents, huge and poisonous. -Hither, surrounded by his conquering host, came the -warrior-saint, Sidi Okba. Here he planted his lance in -the ground, saying, “This is your ‘Kairwan’” (caravan, -or resting-place). After which he caused fifteen chosen -men, the companions of the Prophet who were with the -army, to come together for prayer. Then advancing he -called out, “Serpents and savage beasts we are the -companions of the blessed Prophet; retire! for we -intend to dwell here.” At the sound of his inspired -voice they fled in a body with their young, and took -refuge in the wilderness, whilst the woods that had -been their home vanished also. Moreover, it is said -that this miracle so astounded the Berbers who dwelt -in that land, that they were one and all converted at -once, and further it is alleged that it is for this reason -that the holy city continues to stand in the midst of a -desert unto this day.</p> -<p>Mohammed is said to have taught that there are -in this world three gardens of Paradise, four cities, -and four oratories. The three gardens include Mecca -and Jerusalem, whilst Kairouan is the best known of the -oratories or gates of heaven.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig65"> -<img src="images/p064.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="731" /> -<p class="caption">LA GRANDE RUE, KAIROUAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_211">211</div> -<p>Kairouan has evidently no doubt about its own -sanctity, and tries to live up to its reputation, for it is -most serious, full to overflowing with mosques and -Zaouïas, or tomb-mosques, which are often both -oratories and schools.</p> -<p>An air of austerity seems part of the religious -character of this place, as yet untouched by the stir -and onward rush of modern life. The easy ways of -Tunis, the smooth, smiling faces of the Moorish dandy, -the wealth of harmonious colour, are not found here. -The men are of a grave, stern race, not given to bright -garments, but content, as a rule, with white, or tones of -brown. A woman is a rare apparition in the streets, -and her closely shrouded form in its sombre black -reminds one of a misericordia brother in Tuscany,—though -she, poor thing, scurries away as if in search of -a hiding-place instead of boldly begging an alms.</p> -<p>The main street, or <i>Zankat Touila</i>, runs from the -Bab Djelladin to the Porte de Tunis. Though unusually -wide and nearly straight it has a charm of line -that makes the irregular grouping of minarets, mosques, -and domes, set as they are amidst a tangle of booths, -shops, and balconies, into a bewildering succession of -ready-made pictures. Both minarets and domes are as -white as white can be, like those of any and every city -in Tunisia, nevertheless Kairouan, whitewashed as it may -be with the same brush, has a few little peculiarities to -distinguish it from its fellows. Some of the minarets, -for instance, severe to plainness in their construction, -have for their sole decoration an inscription in projecting -<span class="pb" id="Page_212">212</span> -bricks, carried round all four sides, setting forth -the creed of the Mohammedans. “There is no God -but God; Mohammed is the messenger of God.” -Many of the domes, again, differ from those in other -places by being fluted, which not only gives variety to -the surface, but also a peculiarly graceful curve.</p> -<p>The well-house of El Barota stands in this street; -outside it resembles a marabout, but instead of the -tomb within there is the sacred well, the only well in -Kairouan. The water is brackish in taste, and was -discovered after the orthodox legendary method in -time of need, by a greyhound scratching up the soil. -To add to its sanctity it is said to be in touch in some -mysterious way with the still more sacred well of -Zemzem at Mecca. This underground communication -is in such perfect working order that a pilgrim who -lost his drinking-vessel by dropping it into the fountain -at Mecca, found it again, on his return to his native -city, in the waters of El Barota.</p> -<p>The entrance to the bazaars is through a gateway -decorated with black lines, whilst black and white are -used alternately round the horse-shoe arch. Inside the -bazaar is simple—a whitewashed tunnel, dimly lighted -from above, with the usual square, cavernous recesses. -Shoemakers, coppersmiths, and tailors are to be found, -the latter have already succumbed to the fascinations of -a sewing-machine—one of the first signs that the thin -end of the wedge of so-called improvement is being -driven in. Most of the shops, however, are given up -to carpets, the well-known industry of the place. -Here, though there is some dread of the coming of -aniline dyes and other European enormities, the work -is still carried on, as it always has been in hundreds of -homes, principally by the women and children. The -designs and methods are matters of tradition, vary in -different families, and are handed down like heirlooms -from generation to generation.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig66"> -<img src="images/p065.jpg" alt="" width="736" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">CARPET-MAKING</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_213">213</div> -<p>It is purely a home industry; there is nothing of the -factory or workshop about it as yet. The loom, large -as it is, with its heavy beams and many cords, takes a -good deal of space in the characteristic narrow room, -yet it is set up in the guest-chamber opening out of the -quiet court. It is placed as near the door as may be, -for the sake of light and air, the windows being small -and of little account. It casts a dark shadow over the -divan in the alcove, which in Kairouan is often of -wood elaborately turned or carved, gilt and painted in -brilliant colours. The mother sits and works steadily; -the babies play with her skeins and balls of wool; -the husband dozes or meditates; other women come -and chat, and prepare vegetables, though the cooking is -done in another room on the other side of the courtyard. -All the time the threads are being deftly tied and -knotted, clipped with big scissors, and beaten down at -intervals with much energy and a heavy iron comb, -shaped like a hoe. The carpet grows visibly in a -rather mysterious way, as often there is no pattern -to be seen, the worker apparently evolving the design -out of her inner consciousness, which accounts for the -delightful irregularity and vagaries of hand-made rugs.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_214">214</div> -<p>The maze of the narrow streets is more puzzling -than usual; there is a mean and squalid look, a hopeless -sameness about them that makes threading one’s way -difficult at first. The great Mosque has to be sought -carefully, although from outside the town it is the most -conspicuous object. Massive walls, huge buttresses, -and towers with fluted domes, protect the inner court, -which is entered by gateways under the towers. Vastness -and simplicity as befits its name are the keynotes -of the building, the slight efforts at decoration lost in -the blinding whiteness that is almost unbearable in those -hours when the noonday sun beats down upon the city.</p> -<p>Sidi Okba is said to have traced out the foundation -of the mosque himself, which he called the Mosque of -Olives, and on this ground, already held sacred, he -caused prayers to be celebrated before the work of -building was even begun. The great difficulty was to -find the true position of the <i>Mihrab</i>, the niche which -indicates the direction of Mecca. In all other mosques -the Imaum who leads the prayers turns slightly to one -side or the other of this Mecca niche, to show that the -direction is not absolutely correct. Here, however, -he stands perfectly straight, because the <i>Mihrab</i> was -miraculously revealed to Sidi Okba in this wise. -Wearied out by long prayer he fell asleep, and in his -dreams an angel appeared unto him saying: “Thou -favourite of the Ruler of the Universe, thy prayer is -heard. Behold, when day dawns, thou shalt take thy -standard and bear it upon thy shoulder, then shalt thou -hear a voice crying before thee <i>Allah Akbar</i> (‘God is -great’). No ear but thine will hear this voice. Follow, -and where the cry ceases, in that place shalt thou build -the <i>Mihrab</i>.”</p> -<div class="img" id="fig67"> -<img src="images/p066.jpg" alt="" width="719" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">MOSQUE OF SIDI OKBA, KAIROUAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_215">215</div> -<p>At daybreak Sidi Okba heard a cry, and when he -demanded of his companions whether they heard ought, -they answered, “Nothing.” “It is the command of -God, the All Powerful,” he said, and raising the -standard he followed the voice till the cry ceased. -Immediately he planted the standard, saying, “Here -is our <i>Mihrab</i>.”</p> -<p>The minaret stands at one end of an immense -courtyard, partly paved with Roman tombstones and -surrounded by a double cloister. Underneath the -court is a vast cistern to hold a reserve of water. At -the opposite end, under a fine colonnade, in which -Roman columns are found as usual, are the nine great -doors of the mosque. These doors are of good old -Moorish design, worn with age and softened in colour, -but still truly magnificent.</p> -<p>The sudden change from the glare outside to the -darkness within transforms the mosque into a forest, -mysterious and vast, glowing with rich colour beneath -the gloom. And indeed it is a forest of stone, for -there are seventeen naves and who knows how many -columns. The columns are antique and of fine -marbles, onyx, and porphyry, rubbed by the shoulders -of the Faithful till they shine. The capitals are also -spoils from other buildings, Roman or Byzantine, and -one there is of a design so unusual as to be considered -unique in its treatment of plant form. Matting is -<span class="pb" id="Page_216">216</span> -swathed round the base of the columns and covers the -floor with its cool cleanliness. The great horse-shoe -arches are whitewashed, the roof is rather plain, with -heavy beams like a network between the columns. In -the central nave hang some wonderful old lustres, with -myriads of tiny lamps.</p> -<p>Before the <i>Mihrab</i> is the one incongruous and -tawdry decoration—a crystal chandelier, but the darkness -happily hides it, and prevents its interfering with the -general impression of stately simplicity.</p> -<p>The <i>Mihrab</i>, with its inlaid work and tiles, its -coloured marbles, graceful columns, and finely cut -capitals, is worthy of the shrine, and shares the admiration -of the pilgrims with an exquisitely carved <i>Mimbar</i>, -or pulpit, polished and worn with age, which is said to -be made of wood brought from Baghdad on purpose.</p> -<p>Most of the pilgrims strive to squeeze themselves -between two closely wedded columns standing near by, -because, so the old Sheikh said, “those who can pass -through this narrow portal will also be able to enter -Paradise.” Besides this appeal to the future, there is -the less romantic inducement that the passage of the -pillars is a certain cure for rheumatism. Whichever -reason prevails, no one minds taking off cloaks and -burnouses and then trying hard to wriggle through. -It is a less difficult feat to accomplish than the trial of -truth between two similar pillars in the mosque of -’Amr at Cairo.</p> -<p>A few years ago, strangers of an alien faith had to -content themselves with a bare glance at the outside of -<span class="pb" id="Page_217">217</span> -this famous mosque as they rode past. Now a solitary -Christian, having duly deposited a pair of European -shoes amongst the Oriental slippers at the door, may -enter boldly, rest and dream the day away, tranquil and -alone, without let or hindrance. No rude word will -be spoken, nor will angry looks trouble or annoy. -Nothing will disturb the quiet, for the pilgrims wander -softly to and fro, making no sound on the matted floor -with their slipperless feet. Now and again the voice -of a reader echoes through the silence of this house of -prayer, and occasionally a man, bent on asking questions -and trying to pick up a few words of useful French, -will take his place on the matting beside the stranger, -or, if sketching is going on, a small boy will come and -kneel for hours absorbed in wonder, watching each -movement of the brush, his eager face almost resting -on the paper. Yet perhaps this boy’s own father was -one of those who indulged in throwing stones at the -<i>Roumis</i> less than twenty years ago.</p> -<p>These peaceful ways are the direct result of war. -The Sacred City alone resented the coming of the -French sufficiently to resist in arms, and therefore alone -pays the penalty of its daring in being forced to throw -open the mosques and holy places to the tread of the -Infidel.</p> -<p>The upper gallery of the minaret commands a wide -view over a scene curious enough to attract those -already accustomed to Eastern cities. The houses are -more like cubes than ever, and lie so close together that -their flat roofs seem to form one continuous terrace, -<span class="pb" id="Page_218">218</span> -broken only by domes and minarets. Every house is -square, with a central court. The court and the house-tops -are the women’s domain; etiquette does not permit -a man to enjoy the air on his own roof, but if business -calls him there, he must send warnings to his neighbours, -so that their womenfolk may withdraw from -courts and terraces and seek refuge indoors.</p> -<p>Quaint and characteristic as the outlook from the -minaret undeniably is, yet there is no doubt that its -own picturesque outline adds much to the charm of the -view from other housetops. The sturdy tower with its -warm tones has a look of strength that matches the -equally massive walls of the city, and suggests a watch-tower -crowned by the white galleries of a minaret.</p> -<p>All round the city walls, towers and battlements -dating from the fifteenth century draw a strong dividing -line between the white houses and the sandy waste, -still dreary, desolate, and treeless as in the time of -Okba.</p> -<p>The breach made by the French in 1881 is still left, -partly as a warning, and partly because it is now used -instead of the old Tunis gate on account of its greater -width, and also to avoid an awkward turn; for, like -many Moorish gateways, there is a double turn in the -thickness of the wall, to assist in keeping out the foe. -With this exception, the walls and gates are perfect as -in the days of old: perfect not only in preservation -but in form. But of all the gates none is so fine as -this same Porte de Tunis with its double arch. Both -façades are remarkable for the skill shown in the use -of black and white marble as decoration. Deep -shadow throws a mysterious gloom over the interior of -the gate, now a picturesque Souk with an arched roof, -beneath which many merchants spread out their wares.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig68"> -<img src="images/p067.jpg" alt="" width="542" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">MOORISH GATEWAY, KAIROUAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_219">219</div> -<p>Outside the gate, more stalls and booths nestle -against the walls, and the large open space beyond is -crowded with all the bustle and confusion of a market. -Men come and go, or gather in wide circles round the -snake charmers and story-tellers. Horses and donkeys -furtively steal a meal from the piles of grain and -fodder. Camels snarl and growl whilst men pack -burdens on their unwilling backs, as the caravans -prepare to start on their journey. Other camels hop -about on three legs, the fourth being doubled back and -bound up in what looks a cruel fashion, but which the -Arabs declare to be quite comfortable, and the only -effective way to prevent their straying.</p> -<p>Beyond the market, again, are some curious reservoirs, -called the <i>Bassins des Aghlabites</i>, which receive water -from the Oued Merguelli in time of flood; they were -probably constructed by Ziad el Allah, who restored the -great Mosque.</p> -<p>Still further on, amongst hedges of prickly pears, -or <i>figues de Barbarie</i>, rises the mosque of Sidi Sahab, -the barber, the rival to the mosque of Sidi Okba, both -as regards sanctity and beauty.</p> -<p>A square minaret slightly decorated with coloured -tiles is surrounded by an apparently uninteresting pile -of white buildings and a dome, but these walls conceal -a series of halls and cloistered courts, full of exquisite -<span class="pb" id="Page_220">220</span> -Moorish work worthy of the Alhambra, though, alas! -like the Alhambra they have suffered somewhat at the -hands of the restorer, with his distressing want of taste -in colour.</p> -<p>Roman columns support the arches in the quiet -courts, the floors are paved with marble, tiles of rich -design line the walls, the light filters through coloured -glass, set jewel-like in tiny windows, and the stucco -work adds to the whole effect a touch of light and -grace.</p> -<p>The tomb-mosque itself is a domed building of no -great size, where behind an open-work screen lies the -sarcophagus in which reposes the body of Abou Zemaa -el Beloui, the companion and, as some suppose, the -barber of the Prophet. Carpets and embroideries cover -this tomb, numbers of lamps and ostrich eggs are suspended -before it, and all round are ranged quantities of -flags, the standards and colours of Islam. Tradition -says, that during his life this singular man carried three -hairs from the Prophet’s beard—one under his tongue, -another next his heart, and the third on his right arm. -These three precious hairs are now united in a silken -sachet placed on the dead man’s breast, and whether the -reputation of the saint or these relics of the Prophet -have the greater power in drawing pilgrims to the shrine, -is a doubtful question.</p> -<p>Delicate finish, suited to its smallness of scale, makes -a yet more perfect shrine of the tiny forecourt, and -dome over the tomb of another Marabout, Sidi Abid el -Ghariani. Of all the Moorish work in the city, this -Zaouïa is perhaps the gem—at any rate the hand of -time has touched it lightly, so that nothing has been -done to spoil its charm of colour.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig69"> -<img src="images/p068.jpg" alt="" width="676" height="1000" /> -<p class="caption">THE MOSQUE OF THE THREE DOORS, KAIROUAN</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_221">221</div> -<p>Quite other considerations make it worth while to go -on pilgrimage to the Mosque of the Swords, though its -only beauty lies in the distant effect of its seven fluted -domes. It is dedicated to a comparatively modern -saint, who had great influence in Kairouan. His name -was Sidi Amer Abbada, and he began life as a blacksmith. -To astonish his admirers he made, and they -now say he used, gigantic swords, covered with inscriptions, -one of which prophesies the coming of the -French. His pipes are the pipes of a nightmare—too -huge for mortal man to smoke. As for the colossal -bronze anchors he is said to have carried on his -shoulders from Porto Farina, quite unaided and alone, -are they not now reposing in a courtyard close by? -There the sceptical can go and see for themselves and -come away abashed, saying, “Truly this was a great -Marabout.”</p> -<p>The Djama Thelata Biban, or Mosque of the Three -Doors, is noteworthy because of its great age (some six -or seven hundred years old) and also for the decorative -value of its façade. The plan is not in the least original, -the outline is elementary—a square block with an equally -square minaret beside it. But it is the treatment of the -flat surface that is remarkable. The upper part of the -front is shaded by a tiled roof supported by wooden -brackets, old and mellow in tone. Underneath comes a -broad space of golden stone, adorned by alternate bands -<span class="pb" id="Page_222">222</span> -of raised inscriptions in Cufic characters, and fragments -of Roman carved work. Below this all is white, the -surface broken by three archways with old capitals and -columns, that cast fascinating shadows on the three -brilliant green doors that give the mosque its name. -Coloured tiles in the same way relieve the whiteness and -add to the charm of the minaret. Unfortunately the -building is badly placed across the end of a dull street, -so that it cannot be seen at a picturesque angle.</p> -<p>The pleasures of Kairouan are by no means exhausted -by merely walking through the streets, visiting the -mosques, and wandering outside the walls, not even by -watching the life of the people either out of doors or at -the cafés.</p> -<p>Sunsets as beautiful as those of Biskra may be -enjoyed from the roof. Afterglows, with a depth and -glory of red and crimson unrivalled even in Egypt, -created by the magic atmosphere of the dry and somewhat -dreary plain, which they transform into a land of -mystery and romance.</p> -<p>When the moon rises, another scene of enchantment -is revealed. The pale moonlight of our island home is -unknown in Africa: here the contrast is wonderful, the -brilliance positively startles. The first impression on -leaving a lighted room is that it has been snowing -heavily. Then gradually one begins to grasp the extraordinary -depth of the shadows, the absolute clearness of -each outline, the suffused glow, the positive warmth -that throws such glamour over each common thing. -Last of all, one sees that in this moonlight there is -<span class="pb" id="Page_223">223</span> -colour, soft and low in tone, but yet distinctly recognisable.</p> -<p>As a little change, or perhaps because sunset and -moonlight might be thought dull, the authorities kindly -decreed that a military tattoo should be held. Gay -sounds of martial music, the light tramp of marching -feet, the hum of many voices, drew every one to the -balcony, to find the street bright with flaming torches. -The lights flared up, casting weird shadows over the -crowd of eager faces as the wind blew the flames to and -fro. The gay uniforms, the lightly stepping, almost -dancing feet of the soldiers as they marked time, contrasted -strangely with the statuesque pose of the sober -citizens, or the wild unkempt figures of men from some -distant oasis, or nomads from the desert. How they all -enjoyed the show!—soldiers as much as any one else, -and the band seemingly most of all.</p> -<p>The terrible rites of the Aïssaouas may be witnessed -every night. The sect is powerful in Kairouan, has its -own mosque, and they welcome all those whose curiosity -is strong enough to overcome their feelings of horror -or of self-contempt for wishing to look on at such -doings.</p> -<p>The Marabout Aïssa (a name which means Jesus), -who came from Morocco, was once wandering in the -desert, far from home and friends, and suffered much -from hunger. In fact he would have died of starvation -had he not been endued with miraculous power, and this -enabled him to eat all kinds of impossible food, including -snakes, scorpions, fire, glass, and leaves of prickly pear, -<span class="pb" id="Page_224">224</span> -spines and all. His followers imitate him, or pretend -to do so, to this day, having previously worked themselves -into a state of frenzy after the manner of the -Howling Dervishes. Their feats in this direction, and -also with swords and daggers run through their bodies, -seem so hideous and disgusting even in the telling, that -one wonders how any Europeans can bear to see the -sight. Yet numbers do, and get so excited that they -forget to be horrified or feel sick till they get home.</p> -<p>A wedding feast is a very different ceremony, so that -to be invited to see one in old-world Kairouan is a -piece of real good-fortune. After dinner the Arab -servants hurried us off, with two French officers and -their wives, through the still marvel of a moonlight -night. The music of the tom-toms and the trilling -cries, half-shrill, half-sweet, of rejoicing women, could -be heard long before the house was reached.</p> -<p>The outer gate, decked with boughs, stood wide open, -though as yet only the ladies were allowed to enter and -cross the courtyard to an inner court full of flickering -lights and a bewildering number of restless, ever-moving -women. Gay as butterflies they fluttered round us, -whilst with pretty gentle ways they patted and stroked -our hands and clothes, pulled, pushed, and led us in and -out of three tiny rooms, showing us all the preparations, -the embroidered linen and hangings, the lights, the robes, -the state bedstead, and, last of all, within a circle of elder -women seated on the floor, the bride herself. Demure, -a little wistful, with a studiously impassive expression, -in all her finery of silk and veils, bedizened with jewels, -she posed like an image, aloof and very lonely in the -crowd.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig70"> -<img src="images/p069.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="608" /> -<p class="caption">A DESERT AFTERGLOW</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_225">225</div> -<p>Then suddenly the cry was heard, “The bridegroom -comes,” and in the twinkling of an eye we found ourselves -alone in an empty court, the women had all -vanished, though how they packed themselves into those -wee rooms was a mystery.</p> -<p>Our loneliness was only momentary, for the men -swept in like a flood to the sounds of the usual wild -music and much banging of tom-toms. Then a group -of Aïssaouas began their prayer or incantations, swaying -and shouting as they swung themselves backwards and -forwards. Happily the bridegroom was impatient, and -stopped the performance before any horrors occurred. -Whereupon the men were all hustled off the premises, -the French officers very reluctantly going with the rest. -As the last man disappeared, out fluttered all the butterflies -again. It was the woman’s hour, and they made -the most of it. They enthroned the bridegroom, a -handsome young man, on a dais, covered his head with -a beautiful new burnous, arranged to fall like a veil on -either side of his face, which it almost concealed. Like -the bride, he was preternaturally solemn, and sat there -with his eyes shut, pretending to see nothing, whilst -thoroughly enjoying many furtive peeps.</p> -<p>Then the revels began, pretty girls danced round -him laughing, with lighted candles held on high. With -a certain quaint grace they mingled merciless chaff with -all manner of elfish tricks, pinching and giving him -saucy kisses, deceiving him with pretences that his bride -<span class="pb" id="Page_226">226</span> -was coming, even going so far as to play at being the -bride themselves, and doing their utmost to make him -laugh. Only Rembrandt could have done justice to -the delightful effects of light and shade, the marvellous -play of colour. The girls, with their bright beauty -enhanced by the quaint horned caps, the gay silk veils, -and chains and jewels gleaming under the flickering -lights, the lace sleeves falling away from their bare arms, -and their lithe, graceful forms wrapped in bright-hued -silk, were a perfect picture.</p> -<p>The bridegroom bore all the teasing with a stolid -countenance and a mock air of meekness—it is considered -most unlucky to smile—but at last he received his -reward. The real bride stood before her lord, veiled, -with her head slightly bowed. He rose, lifted her veil, -and kissed her. The little ceremony was at an end.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_227">227</div> -<h2 id="c14">Index</h2> -<p class="center"><a class="ab" href="#index_A">A</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_B">B</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_C">C</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_D">D</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_E">E</a> <span class="ab">F</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_G">G</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_H">H</a> <span class="ab">I</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_J">J</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_K">K</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_L">L</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_M">M</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_N">N</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_O">O</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_P">P</a> <span class="ab">Q</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_R">R</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_S">S</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_T">T</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_U">U</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_V">V</a> <span class="ab">W</span> <span class="ab">X</span> <span class="ab">Y</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_Z">Z</a></p> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_A"><b>A</b></dt> -<dt>Ain-Tunga, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></dt> -<dt>Aïssaouas, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></dt> -<dt>Algiers, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>-33, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dd>Arab Cemetery, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></dd> -<dd>Bois de Boulogne, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dd> -<dd>Carpet school, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dd> -<dd>Casbah, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dd> -<dd>Cathedral, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dd> -<dd>Chateau Hydra, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dd> -<dd>Colonne Voirol, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></dd> -<dd>Embroidery school, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dd> -<dd>Fort des vingt-quatre heures, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dd> -<dd>Jardin d’Essai, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></dd> -<dd>Koubba, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dd> -<dd>Marabout of Sidi Noumann, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></dd> -<dd>Moorish houses, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dd> -<dd>Moorish villas, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque of Sidi Abder Rahman, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dd> -<dd>Museum, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dd> -<dd>Notre Dame d’Afrique, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dd> -<dd>Penon, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dd> -<dd>Tiger Gateway, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dd> -<dt>Atlas Mountains, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></dt> -<dt>Aures Mountains, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_B"><b>B</b></dt> -<dt>Batna, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></dt> -<dt>Belisarius, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>Berbers, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></dt> -<dt>Biskra, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>-89, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></dt> -<dd>The races, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></dd> -<dt>Bizerta, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></dt> -<dt>Bône, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt> -<dt>Bougie, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></dt> -<dt>Bou Korneïne, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></dt> -<dt>Bouzareah, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></dt> -<dt>Bruce, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_C"><b>C</b></dt> -<dt>Carthage, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>-189, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></dt> -<dd>Aqueduct, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dd> -<dd>Byrsa, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></dd> -<dd>Cathedral, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></dd> -<dd>Chapel of St. Louis, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></dd> -<dd>Museum, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></dd> -<dd>Punic cisterns, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></dd> -<dd>Punic tombs, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></dd> -<dd>Roman amphitheatre, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></dd> -<dt>Cervantes, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt>Charles V., <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></dt> -<dt>Chehoud el Batal, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></dt> -<dt>Cherchell, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></dt> -<dt>Chotts, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></dt> -<dt>Claudian, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>Col de Sfa, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></dt> -<dt>Constantine, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>-115, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dd>Baths of Sidi Meçid, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></dd> -<dd>Bridge of el Kantara, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dd> -<dd>Casbah, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></dd> -<dd>Cathedral, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></dd> -<dd>Chemin des Touristes, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></dd> -<dd>Gorge of the Roumel, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dd> -<dd>Mansoura, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></dd> -<dd>Palace of the Bey, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></dd> -<dd>Sidi Rached, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></dd> -<dt>Constantine the Great, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Creuly (General), <a href="#Page_125">125</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_D"><b>D</b></dt> -<dt>Damrémont (General), <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>De Bourmont (General), <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>Dely Ibrahim, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt>Dey of Algiers, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt>Dido, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></dt> -<dt>Diocletian, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_228">228</dt> -<dt>Djebel Ahmar Kreddou, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></dt> -<dt>Djebel Chenoua, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></dt> -<dt>Djebel Djouggar, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>Dougga, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>-135</dt> -<dd>Bab el Roumi, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></dd> -<dd>Mausoleum, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></dd> -<dd>Temple of Celestis, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></dd> -<dd>Theatre, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></dd> -<dt>Douïrat, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_E"><b>E</b></dt> -<dt>El Ariana, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></dt> -<dt>El Bahira, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></dt> -<dt>El Biar, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></dt> -<dt>El Djem, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>-203</dt> -<dt>El Guerrah, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></dt> -<dt>El Kahina, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></dt> -<dt>El Kantara, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>-54, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></dt> -<dt>Exmouth (Lord), <a href="#Page_11">11</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_G"><b>G</b></dt> -<dt>Gabès, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></dt> -<dt>Gafsa, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></dt> -<dt>Gates of the desert, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></dt> -<dt>Gildon (Count), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -<dt>Gordian, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></dt> -<dt>Goums, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_H"><b>H</b></dt> -<dt>Hadrian, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>Hædo, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt>Hamilcar Barca, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></dt> -<dt>Hammamet, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dt>Hammam Meskoutine, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>-126, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></dt> -<dd>Le mariage Arabe, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></dd> -<dd>The hot springs, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></dd> -<dd>The subterranean lake, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></dd> -<dt>Hammam R’hira, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></dt> -<dt>Hammam Salahin, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></dt> -<dt>Hannibal, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></dt> -<dt>Hanno, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></dt> -<dt>Hercha, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dt>Himilco, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></dt> -<dt>Honorius, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_J"><b>J</b></dt> -<dt>Julius Cæsar, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Justinian, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_K"><b>K</b></dt> -<dt>Kabylia, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></dt> -<dt>Kairouan, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>-226</dt> -<dd>Bab Djelladin, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque of the Barber, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque of the Olives, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque of the Swords, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque of the Three Doors, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></dd> -<dd>Porte de Tunis, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></dd> -<dd>Well of el Barota, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></dd> -<dd>Zankat Touila, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></dd> -<dd>Zaouia Sidi Abid el Ghariani, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></dd> -<dt>Khroumirie, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_L"><b>L</b></dt> -<dt>Lactantius, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>Laghouat, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></dt> -<dt>La Goulette, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></dt> -<dt>La Malga, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>La Marsa, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>Lambessa, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></dt> -<dt>Lavigerie (Cardinal), <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></dt> -<dt>Lucius Munatius Gallus, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_M"><b>M</b></dt> -<dt>Mago, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></dt> -<dt>Masinissa, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Matmata, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></dt> -<dt>Maximin, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></dt> -<dt>Medenine, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></dt> -<dt>Medjerda (River), <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></dt> -<dt>Medjez el Bab, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></dt> -<dt>Micipsa, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></dt> -<dt>Mohammed, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></dt> -<dt>Mustapha (Lower), <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></dt> -<dt>Mustapha (Upper), <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_N"><b>N</b></dt> -<dt>Nero, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_O"><b>O</b></dt> -<dt>Optatus (Bishop), <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -<dt>Oran, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt>Ouled Naïls, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_P"><b>P</b></dt> -<dt>Perrégaux (General), <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>Playfair, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></dt> -<dt>Pliny, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></dt> -<dt>Ptolemy, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_R"><b>R</b></dt> -<dt>Robson (John), <a href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt>Ruspina, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_S"><b>S</b></dt> -<dt>Sahara, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></dt> -<dt>St. Arcadius, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>St. Augustine, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>St. Cyprian, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>St. Felicita, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></dt> -<dt>St. Louis of France, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>St. Marcian, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>St. Nemphanion, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></dt> -<dt>St. Perpetua, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_229">229</dt> -<dt>St. Vincent de Paul, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></dt> -<dt>Sallust, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dt>San Geronimo, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt>Sbeitla, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></dt> -<dt>Scipio, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></dt> -<dt>Sedjoumi (Lake), <a href="#Page_173">173</a></dt> -<dt>Sfax, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></dt> -<dt>Shaw, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></dt> -<dt>Sidi Bou Saïd, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>Sidi Mohammed Bou Kobrin, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></dt> -<dt>Sidi Okba, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></dt> -<dt>Sidi Okba (village), <a href="#Page_80">80</a></dt> -<dt>Sophonisba, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></dt> -<dt>Sousse, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>-197</dt> -<dt>Staouëli, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -<dt>Syphax, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_T"><b>T</b></dt> -<dt>Tacitus, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></dt> -<dt>Tebessa, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></dt> -<dt>Teboursouk, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></dt> -<dt>Tertullian, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></dt> -<dt>Testour, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></dt> -<dt>Tibilis, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></dt> -<dt>Timgad, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>-104, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></dt> -<dd>Arch of Trajan, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></dd> -<dd>Baths, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></dd> -<dd>Forum, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></dd> -<dd>Market, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></dd> -<dd>Museum, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></dd> -<dd>Salle de réunion, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></dd> -<dd>Via Decumanus Maximus, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></dd> -<dt>Tipaza, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></dt> -<dt>Tomb of the Christian, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></dt> -<dt>Touaregs, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></dt> -<dt>Tougourt, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></dt> -<dt>Tozeur, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></dt> -<dt>Trajan, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></dt> -<dt>Tunis, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>-175, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></dt> -<dd>Bab Djazira, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></dd> -<dd>Bab Djedid, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></dd> -<dd>Bab el Fellah, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></dd> -<dd>Bab el Khadra, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></dd> -<dd>Bab Souika, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></dd> -<dd>Bardo, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></dd> -<dd>Belvedere, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></dd> -<dd>Casbah, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></dd> -<dd>Dar el Bey, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></dd> -<dd>Hara (Jewish quarter), <a href="#Page_164">164</a></dd> -<dd>Harem, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></dd> -<dd>Medina, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque el Zitouna, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque Sidi Ben Arous, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque Sidi Ben Ziad, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></dd> -<dd>Mosque Sidi Mahrez, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></dd> -<dd>Place Halfaouine, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></dd> -<dd>Porte de France, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></dd> -<dd>Souk des Etoffes, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></dd> -<dd>Souk des Femmes, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></dd> -<dd>Souk el Attarin, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></dd> -<dd>Souk el Belat, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></dd> -<dd>Souk el Blagdia, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></dd> -<dd>Souk el Hout, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></dd> -<dd>Souk el Trouk (tailors), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></dd> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_U"><b>U</b></dt> -<dt>Utica, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_V"><b>V</b></dt> -<dt>Vandals, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>Varro, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Z"><b>Z</b></dt> -<dt>Zaghouan, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></dt> -<dt>Ziban, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></dt> -</dl> -<p class="tbcenter">THE END</p> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="small"><i>Printed by</i> <span class="sc">R. & R. Clark, Limited</span>, <i>Edinburgh</i>.</span></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_230">230</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_231">231</div> -<div class="img" id="fig71"> -<img src="images/p070.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="758" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Sketch Map of</i><br />ALGERIA & TUNIS</p> -</div> -<p class="center small">PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON.</p> -<div class="box"><blockquote> -<p class="center">A COMPANION VOLUME -<br /><span class="small">IN THE SAME SERIES</span></p> -</blockquote> -<blockquote> -<p class="center"><span class="larger">MOROCCO</span></p> -<p class="center">PAINTED BY A. S. FORREST -<br />DESCRIBED BY S. L. BENSUSAN</p> -<p class="center"><span class="small">CONTAINING <b>74</b> FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR</span></p> -<p class="center"><span class="small">PRICE</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class="small">NET</span> -<br />Post free, 20s. 6d.</p> -<p><span class="sc">A. J. Dawson</span> in <i>The Speaker</i> says:—“It -is a carefully finished piece of work, capably -written and sincerely thought out; this, with -the numerous and beautiful illustrations, makes -the whole a very desirable book.”</p> -</blockquote> -<blockquote> -<p class="center"><span class="sc">Published by -<br />A. & C. BLACK, Soho Square, LONDON, W.</span></p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t10">AGENTS</p> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">America</span></p> -<p class="t6"><span class="sc">The Macmillan Company</span></p> -<p class="t7"><span class="sc">64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York</span></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">Canada</span></p> -<p class="t6"><span class="sc">The Macmillan Company of Canada, Ltd.</span></p> -<p class="t7"><span class="sc">27 Richmond Street West, Toronto.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><span class="sc">India</span></p> -<p class="t6"><span class="sc">Macmillan & Company, Ltd.</span></p> -<p class="t7"><span class="sc">Macmillan Building, Bombay</span></p> -<p class="t7"><span class="sc">309 Bow Bazaar Street, Calcutta</span></p> -</div> -<h2 id="c15">Beautiful Books about the East</h2> -<p>EACH CONTAINING FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, REPRODUCED -IN THE SAME STYLE AS THOSE IN “ALGERIA AND TUNIS”</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED AND DESCRIBED BY R. TALBOT KELLY, R.B.A. -<br /><span class="larger">BURMA</span> -<br />CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>Burlington Magazine.</b>—“Mr. Kelly says but little of -Burmese history and architecture, but he has wandered away -from the beaten track, and draws the jungle as well as he -draws pagodas, rendering without harshness the difficult -greens of tropical foliage and the blaze of tropical sunlight.”</p> -<p><b>The Speaker.</b>—“The result is a narrative delightful in -its quiet zest, and a series of pictures that have the hues of -landscapes hung in a heaven of dreamland.”</p> -<p><b>The Athenæum.</b>—“His landscapes—in which nature is -seen unforced by the hands of colour-loving men and women, -and seen, more often than not, by early morning or evening -light—have an exquisite delicacy.”</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED BY WARWICK GOBLE. -<br />DESCRIBED BY PROF. ALEXANDER VAN MILLINGEN D.D. -<br /><span class="larger">CONSTANTINOPLE</span> -<br />CONTAINING 63 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p>Constantinople ranks high as one of the picturesque cities -of the world, and Mr. Warwick Goble, in his fine series of -pictures reproduced in this volume, reveals it to us under -many interesting aspects; we see it, for example, at early -morning, with its spires and minarets emerging through the -haze, when it seems like an enchanted city of the “Thousand -and One Nights.” We get glimpses of life in its streets; we -are shown its flower-markets, its bazaars, its cafés, its walls, -its churches, its mosques, its cemeteries, and several types of -its inhabitants form the subject of special sketches.</p> -<p>Dr. Alexander van Millingen, the author of the book, is -Professor of History at Robert College, Constantinople, and -is a recognised authority on all that pertains to the city. He -has written out of the fulness of his knowledge in a way that -cannot fail to interest the reader.</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED AND DESCRIBED BY R. TALBOT KELLY -<br /><span class="larger">EGYPT</span> -<br />CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>The Academy.</b>—“Amongst books of its class Mr. Kelly’s -deserves a high place. It is sincere and distinctive, and the -artist records atmosphere and sky with more than ordinary -understanding.”</p> -<p><b>The Bookman.</b>—“Rarely can this old, old country have -received more beautiful homage than here—the happily inspired -work of a true artist revealing her countless charms.”</p> -<p><b>Black and White.</b>—“This is a magnificent production -of his, abounding with fine pictures beautifully reproduced -and teeming with fine descriptive touches and bright anecdotal -matter.”</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED BY J. FULLEYLOVE, R.I. -<br />DESCRIBED BY THE REV. J. A. M‘CLYMONT, M.A. -<br /><span class="larger">GREECE</span> -<br />CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p>The object of the writer is to supply a congenial atmosphere -in which the famous scenes and objects depicted by -the artist may be intelligently and sympathetically viewed. -Some amount of description has been given from recent -personal observation, but the letterpress is mainly devoted -to the historical associations connected with the different -places of which pictures are shown. Some information is -also given, incidentally, regarding the condition and prospects -of modern Greece.</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED BY J. FULLEYLOVE, R.I. -<br />DESCRIBED BY THE REV. JOHN KELMAN, M.A. -<br /><span class="larger">THE HOLY LAND</span> -<br />CONTAINING 92 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS, MOSTLY IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>Westminster Gazette.</b>—“To those who have been in -Palestine Mr. Kelman’s book will recall much and suggest -many new ideas. To those who have not, it will give, perhaps, -a more accurate impression of the land and the people -than any other work on Palestine.”</p> -<p><b>Daily Chronicle.</b>—“Even people who care nothing for -art are interested in faithful representations of the Holy Land -as it is seen to-day. And here they have the whole country -laid before them in scenes of extraordinary beauty—the -mountains so full of history and poetic memories, the ancient -river and the accursed sea, the holy city with her relics and -her mosques, the brilliant Syrian crowds, and then the open -country of ‘those holy fields over whose acres walked those -blessed feet.’”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_235">235</div> -<p class="center">BY MORTIMER MENPES, R.I. -<br />TEXT BY FLORA A. STEEL -<br /><span class="larger">INDIA</span> -<br />CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>The Standard.</b>—“There can be no two opinions about -this book. It takes us, so to speak, to India without the -trouble or expense involved in the journey.”</p> -<p><b>Notes and Queries.</b>—“This eminent painter has caught—by -methods which are partly his secret and partly his -discovery—the means of reproducing Indian and Japanese -scenes with a fidelity and beauty until recently unattainable.”</p> -<p><b>The Scotsman.</b>—“The volume is an uncommonly desirable -book. If the Horatian maxim be correct, it should -carry every point, for it is as happy a mixture as could be -made of the profitable and the sweet.”</p> -<p class="center">BY MORTIMER MENPES, R.I. -<br />THE TEXT BY DOROTHY MENPES -<br /><span class="larger">JAPAN</span> -<br />CONTAINING 100 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net</i>.</b></span></p> -<p><b>Black and White.</b>—“It is a charming volume, and contains -some of the most delightful of Mr. Menpes’s Japanese -studies. The reading matter, too, is very bright, and -accords most agreeably with the delightful pages in which -the artist holds unquestionable possession of the stage.”</p> -<p><b>The Times.</b>—“Mr. Menpes’s pictures are here given in -most perfect facsimile, and they form altogether a series of -colour-impressions of Japan which may fairly be called unrivalled. -Even without the narrative they would show that -Mr. Menpes is an enthusiast for Japan, her art, and her -people; and very few European artists have succeeded in -giving such complete expression to an admiration in which -all share.”</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED BY A. S. FORREST -<br />DESCRIBED BY S. L. BENSUSAN -<br /><span class="larger">MOROCCO</span> -<br />CONTAINING 74 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>The World.</b>—“It is certain that the Morocco of to-morrow -must needs be very different from the Morocco of -to-day; and so we should be grateful for a really handsome -presentation, in print and in pictures, of the country as it is. -In <i>Morocco</i>, painted by A. S. Forrest, described by S. L. -Bensusan, we have the very thing; and this book should -soon find a place upon the shelves not only of every lover -of past and passing conditions, but of every student of travel -and history, and of every one who is capable of being interested -in foreign politics.”</p> -<p><b>Pall Mall Gazette.</b>—“This is a wonderful series of -pictures of life in Maghreb-el-Acksa.”</p> -<p class="center">PAINTED AND DESCRIBED BY A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR -<br /><span class="larger">TIBET AND NEPAL</span> -<br />CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS (50 IN COLOUR) -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 20s. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>The Academy.</b>—“The present writer can only say that, -for his part, he believes his author to be sincere and correct, -and one of the pluckiest, truest-hearted, and most enterprising -men in the world to boot. To this encomium might -be added, one of the cleverest, too, for the drawings in -colour and black-and-white display a very acute artistic -sense and exquisite perception of the beauty and grandeur -of mountain scenery.”</p> -<p><b>The Onlooker.</b>—“The book does not contain a dull -page (or a dull illustration) from beginning to end.”</p> -<p class="center">BY LADY BUTLER -<br /><span class="smaller">PAINTER OF ‘THE ROLL CALL,’ ‘SCOTLAND FOR EVER’</span> -<br /><span class="larger"><span class="sc">LETTERS from the HOLY LAND</span></span> -<br />CONTAINING 16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR FROM PAINTINGS BY THE AUTHOR -<span class="lr"><b><i>Price 7s. 6d. net.</i></b></span></p> -<p><b>The Outlook.</b>—“Charmingly natural and spontaneous -travel impressions with sixteen harmonious illustrations. -The glow, spaciousness, and atmosphere of these eastern -scenes are preserved in a way that eloquently attests the -possibilities of the best colour process work.”</p> -<p><b>St. James’s Gazette.</b>—“The letters in themselves afford -their own justification; the sketches are by Lady Butler, -and when we have said that we have said all. Combined, -they make a book that is at once a delight to the eye and a -pleasure to handle. The coloured illustrations, marvellously -well reproduced, provide in a panoramic display faithful representations -of the Holy Land as it is seen to-day. They -make a singularly attractive collection, worthy of the distinguished -artist who painted them.”</p> -<p class="tbcenter">PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK · SOHO SQUARE · LONDON · W.</p> -<h2 title="">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Research into publication date and location determined that this book is in the public domain.</li> -<li>Corrected a few palpable typographical errors.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Algeria and Tunis, by Frances E. 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