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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Diary of Dr. John William Polidori - 1816, Relating to Byron, Shelley, etc. - -Author: John William Polidori - -Editor: William Michael Rossetti - -Release Date: July 1, 2017 [EBook #55017] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF DR. JOHN POLIDORI *** - - - - -Produced by Rachael Schultz, readbueno and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> -<div> - <a id='Page_i'></a> - <h1 class='c001'>The Diary of<br />Dr. John William Polidori</h1> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><a id='Page_iii'></a><span class='xxlarge'>The Diary of</span></div> - <div><span class='xxlarge'>Dr. John William Polidori</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='xlarge'>1816</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>Relating to Byron, Shelley, etc.</span></div> - <div class='c003'>Edited and Elucidated by</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>William Michael Rossetti</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='small'>"Mi fur mostrati gli spiriti magni</span></div> - <div class='line'><span class='small'>Che del vederli in me stesso n'esalto."</span>—<span class='sc'>Dante.</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>LONDON</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>ELKIN MATHEWS</span></div> - <div class='c000'>VIGO STREET</div> - <div class='c000'>MCMXI</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><a id='Page_iv'></a><span class='sc'>Richard Clay & Sons, Limited,</span></div> - <div><span class='sc'>bread street hill, e.c., and</span></div> - <div><span class='sc'>bungay, suffolk.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><a id='Page_v'></a>DEDICATED</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='fss'>TO MY TWO DAUGHTERS</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>HELEN AND MARY</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='fss'>WHO WITH MY LITTLE GRAND-DAUGHTER IMOGENE</span></div> - <div><span class='fss'>KEEP THE HOME OF MY CLOSING YEARS</span></div> - <div><span class='fss'>STILL IN GOOD CHEER</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <a id='Page_1'></a> - <h2 class='c004'>The Diary of<br />Dr. John William Polidori</h2> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c004'>INTRODUCTION</h2> -</div> -<p class='c005'>A person whose name finds mention in the -books about Byron, and to some extent in those -about Shelley, was John William Polidori, M.D.; he -was Lord Byron's travelling physician in 1816, when -his Lordship quitted England soon after the separation -from his wife. I, who now act as Editor of his -Diary, am a nephew of his, born after his death. -Dr. Polidori figures not very advantageously in the -books concerning Byron and Shelley. He is exhibited -as overweening and petulant, too fond of putting -himself forward face to face with those two heroes of -our poetical literature, and too touchy when either of -them declined to take him at his own estimation. I -will allow that this judgment of Polidori is, so far as it -goes, substantially just; and that some of the recorded -anecdotes of him prove him deficient in self-knowledge, -lacking prudence and reserve, and ignoring the distinction -<a id='Page_2'></a>between a dignified and a quarrelsome -attitude of mind. He was, in fact, extremely young -when he went abroad in April 1816 with Byron, to -whom he had been recommended by Sir Henry -Halford; he was then only twenty years of age (born -on September 7, 1795), Byron being twenty-eight, -and Shelley twenty-three. The recommendation -given to so very young a man is a little surprising. -It would be a mistake, however, to suppose that -Polidori was without some solid attainments, and -some considerable share of talent. He was the son -of Gaetano Polidori, a Tuscan man of letters who, -after being secretary to the celebrated dramatist -Alfieri, had settled in London as a teacher of Italian, -and of his English wife, a Miss Pierce; the parents -(my maternal grand-parents) survived to a great age, -only dying in 1853. John Polidori, after receiving -his education in the Roman Catholic College of -Ampleforth (Yorkshire), studied medicine in Edinburgh, -and took his doctor's degree at a singularly -early age—I believe almost unexampled—the age of -nineteen. His ambition was fully as much for literary -as for professional distinction; and he published, -besides <i>The Vampyre</i> to which I shall have to recur, -a prose tale named <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, a volume of -verse containing a drama entitled <i>Ximenes</i>, and some -other writings.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_3'></a>One of these writings is the text to a volume, -published in 1821, entitled <i>Sketches Illustrative of the -Manners and Costumes of France, Switzerland, and -Italy</i>, by R. Bridgens. The name of Polidori is not -indeed recorded in this book, but I know as a -certainty that he was the writer. One of the -designs in the volume shows the costume of women -at Lerici just about the time when Shelley was -staying there, in the closing months of his life, -and a noticeable costume it was. Polidori himself—though -I am not aware that he ever received -any instruction in drawing worth speaking of—had -some considerable native gift in sketching faces and -figures with lifelike expression; I possess a few -examples to prove as much. The Diary shows that -he took some serious and intelligent interest in works -of art, as well as in literature; and he was clearly a -rapid and somewhat caustic judge of character—perhaps -a correct one. He was a fine, rather romantic-looking -young man, as evidenced by his portrait in -the National Portrait Gallery, accepted from me by -that Institution in 1895.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Dr. Polidori's life was a short one. Not long after -quitting Lord Byron in 1816 he returned to London, -and in Norwich continued his medical career, but -eventually relinquished this, and began studying for -the Bar. It is said that Miss Harriett Martineau was -<a id='Page_4'></a>rather in love with him in Norwich. In August -1821 he committed suicide with poison—having, -through losses in gambling, incurred a debt of -honour which he had no present means of clearing -off. That he did take poison, prussic acid, was a fact -perfectly well known in his family; but it is curious -to note that the easy-going and good-naturedly -disposed coroner's jury were content to return a -verdict without eliciting any distinct evidence as to -the cause of death, and they simply pronounced that -he had "died by the visitation of God."</p> - -<p class='c006'>The matter was reported in two papers, <i>The -Traveller</i> and <i>The New Times</i>. I possess a copy, -made by my mother at the time, of the reports; and -it may perhaps be as well inserted here.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><i>Copied from The Traveller.</i></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c007'>Monday Evening [<i>August 27th, 1821</i>].</div> - -<p class='c006'>Melancholy Event.—Mr. Polidori, residing in Great -Pulteney Street, retired to rest about his usual time on -Thursday night; the servant, not finding him rise at -the usual hour yesterday, went to his room between -eleven and twelve o'clock, and found him groaning, -and apparently in the last agonies of death. An -alarm was given and medical aid was immediately -called, but before the arrival of Surgeons Copeland -<a id='Page_5'></a>and Davies, he was no more. His father was at the -time on his journey to London to see his son, and -arrived about three hours after the event. We understand -the deceased was about twenty-six years of -age, and had for some time accompanied Lord Byron -in Italy. A Coroner's Inquest will sit this day to -ascertain the cause of his death.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><i>Copied from The New Times.</i></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c007'><span class='small'>Tuesday [<i>September 11th, 1821</i>].</span></div> - -<p class='c006'>Coroner's Inquest on John Polidori, Esquire.—An -Inquisition has been taken before T. Higgs, -Esquire, Deputy Coroner, at the residence of the -father of the above unfortunate gentleman, in Great -Pulteney Street, Golden Square, who was discovered -lying on his bed in a state nearly approaching to -death, and soon afterwards expired.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Charlotte Reed, the servant to Mr. Gaetano Polidori, -the father of the deceased, said her master's son -lived in the house, and for some time had been -indisposed. On Monday the 20th of August last he -returned from Brighton, since which his conduct manifested -strong symptoms of incoherence, and he gave -his order for dinner in a very strange manner. On the -Thursday following the deceased dined with a gentleman -residing in the same house, and on that occasion -<a id='Page_6'></a>he appeared very much depressed in his spirits. -About nine o'clock the same evening he ordered -witness to leave a glass (tumbler) in his room; this -was unusual, but one was placed as he desired. -Deceased told her he was unwell; if therefore he did -not get up by twelve o'clock the next day, not to -disturb him. Witness, however, a few minutes before -twelve, went into his room to open the shutters, and -on her return saw the deceased lying in bed; he was -not in any unusual position, but seemed extremely -ill. Witness immediately left the room, went upstairs, -and communicated what she had observed to a -gentleman, who instantly came down. Witness then -went for medical assistance. The deceased was about -twenty-six years of age.—Mr. John Deagostini, the -gentleman alluded to by the last witness, corroborated -her statement on his giving him the invitation to -dine, which he accepted in a way quite different from -his usual conduct. Witness also observed that, some -time since, the deceased had met with an accident—was -thrown out of his gig, and seriously hurt in the -head. On Thursday at dinner he spoke in half -sentences; the conversation was on politics and a -future state. The deceased observed rather harshly -that witness would see more than him; he appeared -to be deranged in his mind, and his countenance was -haggard. At dinner he ate very little: soon after left -<a id='Page_7'></a>the room, but joined again at tea; hardly spoke a -word, and retired at nine o'clock. After breakfast -next morning, witness inquired of the servant whether -Mr. Polidori had gone out. She replied no, and that -he had desired her not to disturb him. About twelve -o'clock the servant came to him very much alarmed. -Witness went immediately to the apartment of the -deceased, and observed a tumbler on the chair, which -contained nothing but water, and did not perceive -any deleterious substance that the deceased might -have taken; he was senseless, and apparently in a -dying state.—Mr. Thomas Copeland, a surgeon -residing in Golden Square, was sent for suddenly to -attend the deceased, and attempted to discharge the -contents of the stomach without effect. He lingered -for about ten minutes, and expired. Another medical -gentleman soon after arrived, but his assistance was -also unavailing.—There being no further evidence -adduced to prove how the deceased came to his -death, the jury, under these circumstances, returned a -verdict of—Died by the visitation of God.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Medwin, in his <i>Conversations with Lord Byron</i>, -gives the following account of how the poet received -the news of Dr. Polidori's death. "I was convinced" -(said Byron) "something very unpleasant hung over -me last night: I expected to hear that somebody I -knew was dead. So it turns out—poor Polidori is -<a id='Page_8'></a>gone. When he was my physician he was always -talking of prussic acid, oil of amber, blowing into -veins, suffocating by charcoal, and compounding -poisons; but for a different purpose to what the -Pontic monarch did, for he has prescribed a dose -for himself that would have killed fifty Mithridates—a -dose whose effect, Murray says, was so instantaneous -that he went off without a spasm or struggle. -It seems that disappointment was the cause of this -rash act."—The evidence of the servant at the inquest -shows that death did not come so very suddenly; and -in my own family I always heard the poison spoken -of as simply prussic acid.</p> - -<p class='c006'>This is all that I need say at present to explain -who Dr. Polidori was; but I must add a few words -regarding his Diary.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The day when the young doctor obtained the post -of travelling physician to the famous poet and man of -fashion, Lord Byron, about to leave England for the -Continent, must, no doubt, have been regarded by him -and by some of his family as a supremely auspicious -one, although in fact it turned out the reverse. The -article on Polidori written in <i>The Dictionary of National -Biography</i> by my valued friend, the late Dr. Garnett, -speaks of him as "physician and <i>secretary</i> to Lord -Byron"; but I never heard that he undertook or performed -any secretarial work worth speaking of, and -<a id='Page_9'></a>I decidedly believe that he did not. The same statement -occurs in the inscription on his likeness in -the National Portrait Gallery. Polidori's father had -foreseen, in the Byronic scheme, disappointment as -only too likely, and he opposed the project, but without -success. To be the daily companion and intimate -of so great a man as Byron, to visit foreign scenes in -his society, to travel into his own father's native land, -which he regarded with a feeling of enthusiasm, and -with whose language he was naturally well acquainted, -to be thus launched upon a career promising the -utmost development and satisfaction to his literary as -well as professional enterprise—all this may have -seemed like the realization of a dream almost too -good to be true. To crown all, Mr. Murray, Byron's -publisher, had offered Polidori no less a sum than -£500 (or 500 guineas) for an account of his -forthcoming tour. Polidori therefore began to keep -a Diary, heading it <i>Journal of a Journey through -Flanders etc., from April 24, 1816, to</i>______; -and the blank was eventually filled in with the -date "December 28, 1816"; it should rather stand -"December 30." Portions of the Diary are written -with some detail, and a perceptible aim at literary -effect—Murray's £500 being manifestly in view; in -other instances the jottings are slight, and merely -enough for guiding the memory. On this footing the -<a id='Page_10'></a>Journal goes on up to June 30, 1816. It was then -dropped, as Polidori notes "through neglect and -dissipation," for he saw a great deal of company. On -September 5 he wrote up some summarized reminiscences; -and from September 16, the day when he -parted company with Byron at Cologny, near Geneva, -and proceeded to journey through Italy on his own -account, he continued with some regularity up to -December 30, when he was sojourning in Pisa. That -is the latest day of which any record remains; but it -is known from other evidence that Dr. Polidori continued -in Italy up to April 14, 1817: he then left -Venice in company with the new Earl of Guilford and -his mother—being their travelling physician. Whether -the Journal is in any fair degree interesting or brightly -written is a question which the reader will settle for -himself; as a document relevant to the life of two -illustrious poets, it certainly merits some degree of -attention.</p> - -<p class='c006'>My own first acquaintance with the Diary of Dr. -Polidori dates back to 1869, when I was preparing the -Memoir of Shelley which preludes my edition of his -poems, published in 1870; I then availed myself of -the Shelleian information contained in the Diary, and -even gave two or three verbatim extracts from it. -The MS. book was at that time the property of a -sister of his, Miss Charlotte Lydia Polidori, a lady of -<a id='Page_11'></a>advanced age. I regret to say that my aunt, on -receiving the MS. back from me, took it into her -head to read it through—a thing which I fancy she -had never before done, or certainly had not done for -very many years, and that she found in it some few -passages which she held to be "improper," and, with -the severe virtue so characteristic of an English -maiden aunt, she determined that those passages -should no longer exist. I can remember one about -Byron and a chambermaid at Ostend, and another, -later on, about Polidori himself. My aunt therefore -took the trouble of copying out the whole Diary, -minus the peccant passages, and she then ruthlessly -destroyed the original MS. After her death—which -occurred in January 1890, when she had attained the -age of eighty-seven years—her transcript came into -my possession. Its authority is only a shade less -safe than that of the original, and it is from the -transcript that I have had to work in compiling my -present volume.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I will now refer in some detail to the matter -of Dr. Polidori's romantic tale, <i>The Vampyre</i>; -not only because this matter is of some literary -interest in itself, but more especially because the -account of it given in <i>The Dictionary of National -Biography</i> treats Polidori, in this regard, with no -indulgence, and I believe (however unintentionally on -<a id='Page_12'></a>the part of the late Dr. Garnett) with less than -justice. He says: "In April 1819 he [Polidori] -published in <i>The New Monthly Magazine</i>, and also in -pamphlet-form, the celebrated story of <i>The Vampyre</i>, -which he attributed to Byron. The ascription was -fictitious. Byron had in fact, in June 1816, begun to -write at Geneva a story with this title, in emulation -of Mrs. Shelley's <i>Frankenstein</i>; but dropped it before -reaching the superstition which it was to have illustrated. -He sent the fragment to Murray upon the -appearance of Polidori's fabrication, and it is inserted -in his works. He further protested in a carelessly -good-natured disclaimer addressed to <i>Galignani's -Messenger</i>."</p> - -<p class='c006'>The facts of the case appear to be as follows. As -we shall see in the Diary, Polidori began, near Geneva, -a tale which (according to Mrs. Shelley) was about a -"skull-headed lady," and he was clearly aware that -Byron had commenced a story about a vampyre. -After quitting Byron, Polidori, in conversation with -the Countess of Breuss, mentioned in his Journal, -spoke (unless we are to discredit his own account) of -the subject of the great poet's tale; the Countess -questioned whether anything could be made of such -a theme, and Polidori then tried his hand at carrying -it out. He left the MS. with the Countess, and -thought little or no more about it. After his departure -<a id='Page_13'></a>from that neighbourhood some person who was -travelling there (one might perhaps infer a lady) -obtained the MS. either from the Countess of Breuss -or from some person acquainted with the Countess: -this would, I suppose, be the Madame Gatelier who is -named in the Journal along with the Countess. The -traveller then forwarded the tale to the Publisher, -Colburn, telling him—and this statement was printed -by Colburn as an <i>Extract of a Letter from Geneva</i>—that -certain tales were "undertaken by Lord B[yron], -the physician [Polidori], and Miss M. W. Godwin," -and that the writer received from her female friend -"the outline of each of these stories." She did not say -that the completed <i>Vampyre</i> was the production of -Byron; but Colburn inferred this, and in the -magazine he attributed it to Byron, printing his name -as author.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Among the papers which were left by Dr. Polidori -at the time of his death, and which have come into -my possession, are the drafts of two letters of his—one -addressed to Mr. Henry Colburn, and the other to -the Editor of <i>The Morning Chronicle</i>. These letters -were actually dispatched, and (having no sort of -reason to suspect the contrary) I assume that they -contain a truthful account of the facts. If so, they -exonerate Polidori from the imputation of having -planned or connived at a literary imposture. In his -<a id='Page_14'></a>letter to Mr. Colburn he affirms (as will be seen) that -the following incidents in his tale were borrowed from -Byron's project: the departure of two friends from -England, one of them dying in Greece [but it is in -fact near Ephesus] after exacting from his companion -an oath not to mention his death; the revival of the -dead man, and his then making love to the sister of -his late companion. The story begun by Byron and -published along with <i>Mazeppa</i> contains the incidents -above named, except only the important incident of -the dead man's revival and his subsequent love-making. -Byron's extant writing, which is a mere -fragment, affords no trace of that upshot; but -Polidori must have known that such was the intended -sequel. It may be added that the resemblance -between these productions of Byron and of Polidori -extends only to incidents: the form of narrative is -different.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I proceed to give the letter of Dr. Polidori to Mr. -Colburn, followed by the letter to the Editor of <i>The -Morning Chronicle</i>. This latter goes over a good deal -of the same ground as the letter to Colburn, so I -shorten it very considerably.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><a id='Page_15'></a><span class='sc'>John Polidori to Henry Colburn.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c007'><span class='small'>[London], <i>April 2</i> (1819).</span></div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='sc'>Sir</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>I received a copy of the magazine of last -April (the present month), and am sorry to find that -your Genevan correspondent has led you into a -mistake with regard to the tale of <i>The Vampyre</i>—which -is <i>not</i> Lord Byron's, but was written <i>entirely</i> -by me at the request of a lady, who (upon my mentioning -that his Lordship had said that it was his -intention of writing a ghost story, depending for -interest upon the circumstances of two friends leaving -England, and one dying in Greece, the other finding -him alive, upon his return, and making love to his -sister) saying that she thought it impossible to work -up such materials, desired I would write it for her, -which I did in two idle mornings by her side. These -circumstances above mentioned, and the one of the -dying man having obtained an oath that the survivor -should not in any way disclose his decease, are the -only parts of the tale belonging to his Lordship. I -desire, therefore, that you will positively contradict -your statement in the next number, by the insertion -of this note.</p> - -<p class='c006'>With regard to my own tale, it is imperfect and -unfinished. I had rather therefore it should not -<a id='Page_16'></a>appear in the magazine; and, if the Editor had sent -his communication, as he mentions, he would have -been spared this mistake.</p> - -<p class='c006'>But, sir, there is one circumstance of which I must -request a further explanation. I observe upon the -back of your publication the announcement of a -separate edition. Now, upon buying this, I find -that it states in the title-page that it was entered -into Stationers' Hall upon March 27, consequently -before your magazine was published. I wish therefore -to ask for information how this tale passed -from the hands of your Editor into those of a -publisher.</p> - -<p class='c006'>As it is a mere trifle, I should have had no -objection to its appearing in your magazine, as I -could, in common with any other, have extracted it -thence, and republished it. But I shall not sit -patiently by and see it taken without my consent, -and appropriated by any person. As therefore it -must have passed through your hands (as stated -in the magazine) from a correspondent, I shall -expect that you will account to me for the publishers, -Messrs. Sherwood and Neely, having possession of it -and appropriating it to themselves; and demand either -that a compensation be made me, or that its separate -publication be instantly suppressed.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Hoping for an immediate answer, which will -<a id='Page_17'></a>save me the trouble of obtaining an injunction, I -remain,</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Sir,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'>Your obedient servant,</div> -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>John Polidori</span>.</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><span class='sc'>To the Editor of <i>The Morning Chronicle</i>.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c010'><span class='sc'>Sir</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>As you were the first person to whom I -wrote to state that the tale of <i>The Vampyre</i> was -not Lord Byron's, I beg you to insert the following -statement in your paper.... The tale, as I stated -to you in my letter, was written upon the foundation -of a purposed and begun story of Lord Byron's.... -Lord Byron, in a letter dated Venice, stated -that he knew nothing of the Vampyre story, and -hated vampyres; but, while this letter was busily -circulating in all the London and provincial papers, -the fragment at the end of <i>Mazeppa</i> was in the -hands of his publishers in Albemarle Street, with -the date of June 17, 1816, attached to it, being -the beginning of his tale upon this very foundation. -My development was written on the Continent, -and left with a lady at whose request it was undertaken; -in the course of three mornings by her side -it was produced, and left with her. From her -<a id='Page_18'></a>hands, by means of a correspondent, without my -knowledge, it came into those of the Editor of <i>The -New Monthly</i>, with a letter stating it to be an <i>ébauche</i> -of Lord Byron's. Mr. Watts, as Editor of that -magazine, stated in <i>his</i> notice that the tale which -accompanies the letters "we also present to our -readers without pledging ourselves for its authenticity -as the production of Lord Byron"; and he continues, -"We should suppose it to have been committed to -paper rather from the recital of a third person." This, -however, after the publication of 700 copies, was -cancelled by the <i>publisher</i>, and another notice inserted -stating it to be decidedly his Lordship's, in -direct opposition (as I am informed) to the Editor's -will—who has since retired from the conduct of the -magazine.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Immediately it was published I procured a copy; -and, upon finding that it was an almost forgotten -trifle of my own, instantly wrote to you as Editor -of <i>The Morning Chronicle</i>, stating the little share -Lord Byron had in the work. This was upon the -Friday evening after its publication. I at the same -time wrote to the publishers of the tale in its separate -form, and to those of the magazine, to stop its sale -under his Lordship's name. On Monday the publishers -of the magazine called upon me, and promised -it should be instantly announced as mine.... When -<a id='Page_19'></a>I came to claim my share in the profits, I was offered -£30, instead of nearly £300....</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Your obedient servant,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>John Polidori</span>.</div> - -<hr class='c011' /> - -<p class='c006'>The prefatory note to <i>The Vampyre</i>, in <i>The New -Monthly Magazine</i>, runs thus: "We received several -private letters in the course of last autumn from a -friend travelling on the Continent, and among others -the following, which we give to the public on account -of its containing anecdotes of an individual concerning -whom the most trifling circumstances, if they tend to -mark even the minor features of his mind, cannot fail -of being considered important and valuable by those -who know how to appreciate his erratic but transcendent -genius. The tale which accompanied the -letter we have also much pleasure in presenting to -our readers.—Ed." There is also a final note thus: -"We have in our possession the tale of Dr. ——, as -well as the outline of that of Miss Godwin. The latter -has already appeared under the title of <i>Frankenstein, -or The Modern Prometheus</i>. The former, however, -upon consulting with its author, we may probably -hereafter give to our readers.—Ed."</p> - -<p class='c006'>Two questions arise as to that prefatory note: -(1) Did the Editor really write it, or did the Publisher -Colburn write it? (2) Is the averment true or false -<a id='Page_20'></a>that the Editor (or the Publisher) had received in the -course of the preceding autumn "several private -letters" from the same person who had now forwarded -a letter enclosing <i>The Vampyre</i>?</p> - -<p class='c006'>Murray wrote to Lord Byron on April 27, 1819. -He speaks of the publication of <i>The Vampyre</i> in <i>The -New Monthly Magazine</i>, and afterwards in book-form, -and proceeds: "The Editor of that journal has -quarrelled with the Publisher, and has called this -morning to exculpate himself from the baseness of -the transaction. He says that he received it from -Dr. Polidori for a small sum; Polidori averring that -the whole plan of it was yours, and that it was -merely written out by him. The Editor inserted it -with a short statement to this effect; but, to his -astonishment, Colburn cancelled the leaf.... He -informs me that Polidori, finding that the sale exceeded -his expectation and that he had sold it too -cheap, went to the Editor and declared that he would -deny it."</p> - -<p class='c006'>This statement by Murray makes it probable that -the paragraph purporting to come from the Editor, -or some substantial part of it, really emanated from -the Publisher, and the same is definitely asserted in -Polidori's letter to <i>The Morning Chronicle</i>; but -Murray's letter does not settle the question whether -the allegation about a traveller at Geneva was true -<a id='Page_21'></a>or false. The Editor's assertion that "he received it -from Dr. Polidori for a small sum" does not by any -means clear up all the facts. It seems quite possible -that there really was a correspondent at Geneva who -sent to the Editor the MS. of <i>The Vampyre</i>, along -with that of Polidori's other tale, and an outline of -Mary Shelley's <i>Frankenstein</i>, as expressly affirmed in -the final note signed "Ed."; and that the Editor, -having no right to publish <i>The Vampyre</i> unless by -authority of its writer, spoke to Polidori about it. -How could Polidori dispose of it "for a small sum" -if he alleged that it was written by Byron, or by any -one other than himself? He averred "that the whole -plan of it was" Byron's—and this is apparently true; -adding "that it was merely written out by" himself—in -the sense not of having written from Byron's -dictation, but of having composed a story founded -upon Byron's intended incidents. Murray's final -phrase—that Polidori "went to the Editor, and declared -that he would deny it"—is loosely expressed, -but seems to mean that he would deny Byron's -authorship of <i>The Vampyre</i>—and so in fact he did.</p> - -<p class='c006'>If we suppose (as did Murray apparently) that -Polidori had in the first instance planned a deliberate -imposture, and had palmed off upon the Editor <i>The -Vampyre</i> as being virtually the writing of Byron, we -are encountered by three difficulties left unexplained: -<a id='Page_22'></a>(1) What plea could Polidori advance for having the MS. -and the right of publishing it? (2) Why did he sell for -"a <i>small</i> sum" a work which, if written by the world-famous -Lord Byron, would be worth a very considerable -sum? (3) Why did the Editor pay to Polidori a -sum, whether small or large, for a book which, according -to this assumption, was avowedly not the writing -of himself, but the writing and property of Byron? -All these difficulties are avoided, and no other serious -difficulties arise, if we assume that the account given -by Polidori is the true one, viz. that he offered the -tale to the Editor as being his own composition, -strictly modelled upon a series of incidents invented -by Byron.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Polidori's letter, addressed to the Editor of <i>The -Morning Chronicle</i>, was, as I have already said, -delivered to the office of that paper. It was not -however published there, as Messrs. Sherwood, Neely, -and Jones, the publishers of <i>The Vampyre</i> in its book-form, -represented to Polidori that the appearance of -such a letter would tend to compromise them, and he -therefore, out of consideration for this firm, withdrew -the letter unprinted. This is Polidori's own statement, -contained in the Introduction to another -romantic tale of his, <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, published in -1819; being the tale by Polidori which, as stated by -the Editor of <i>The New Monthly Magazine</i>, had been -<a id='Page_23'></a>sent to him along with <i>The Vampyre</i> and the outline -of <i>Frankenstein</i>. Besides all this, the Doctor wrote a -brief letter, published in <i>The Courier</i> on May 5, 1819, -saying—what was clearly the fact—"Though the -groundwork is certainly Lord Byron's, its development -is mine."</p> - -<p class='c006'>I must now revert for a moment to the "skull-headed -lady." In the Introduction above named, -Polidori asserts that that tale, <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, was -the one which he began at Cologny. It does not -contain any sort of mention of any skull-headed lady. -There is some supernatural machinery in the story, of -a rather futile kind; it could be excluded without -affecting the real basis of the narrative, which relates -the love-affair and marriage of a young Swiss patriot -with a lady who is ultimately identified as his sister. -As to Mrs. Shelley's allegation that the (non-existent) -skull-headed lady was punished for "peeping through -a keyhole," no such incident exists in <i>Ernestus -Berchtold</i>; there is, however, a passage where a certain -Julia seeks to solve a mystery by looking "through -the wainscot of a closet for wood." Her head, after -this inspection, remains exactly what it was before.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>The Vampyre</i> was in its way a great success. As -stated in <i>The Dictionary of National Biography</i>, -Byron's name gave Polidori's production great celebrity -on the Continent, where <i>The Vampyre</i> was -<a id='Page_24'></a>held to be quite the thing which it behoved Byron -to have written. It formed the groundwork of -Marschner's opera, and nearly half a volume of -Dumas's <i>Memoirs</i> is occupied by an account of the -representation of a French play founded upon it.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <a id='Page_25'></a> - <h2 class='c004'>THE DIARY</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>1816. <i>April 24.</i>—I left London at 10 in the morning, -with Lord Byron, Scrope Davies, Esq., and J. Hobhouse, Esq.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Mr. Scrope Berdmore Davies had been one of -Byron's fellow-students and intimates at Cambridge -University, and had continued familiar with him -at Newstead Abbey and elsewhere. He has been -described as "no less remarkable for elegance of -taste than for a generous high-mindedness." Mr. -John Cam Hobhouse (afterwards Sir J. C. Hobhouse, -and ultimately Lord Broughton de Gifford) -was, it need hardly be said, a peculiarly close friend -of Byron. He had accompanied him in his travels -in Greece prior to the commencement of <i>Childe -Harold</i>, wrote notes to that poem, and to the -last upheld the essential fineness of his Lordship's -character. Byron's intention to travel along with -Hobhouse in the spring of 1816 was not a new -project conceived in consequence of his separation, -only completed on April 22, from his wife. He had -entertained this scheme before his daughter Ada was -<a id='Page_26'></a>born on December 10, 1815, and had announced it -to his wife, to whom the notion was not agreeable.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The view from Shooter's Hill was extensive and -beautiful, being on a much larger scale than the view -from Stirling.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Polidori mentions Stirling, as being no doubt a -reminiscence of his own, from the days when he had -been in Edinburgh to take his medical degree.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The plain, enamelled with various colours according -to the different growth of the corn, spread far -before our sight, was divided irregularly by the river. -The Thames next, with its majestic waves, flowed in -the plain below, bearing numerous fleets upon its -flood. Its banks in many parts were beautiful. The -chalky banks were alternated with the swelling hills, -rising from the waves, of the pleasing green-brown, -the effect of the first dawn of spring on the vegetable -creation.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Canterbury we saw the Cathedral. I know not -how it was, whether my mind had been prepared by -the previous sight of glorious nature to receive -pleasing impressions, but the spot where the high -altar and Thomas à Becket's tomb stood seemed to -me one of the most beautiful effects that I had ever -seen arising from Saxo-Gothic architecture; for, -though it had not all the airiness and awe-inspiring -height that I had seen in other cathedrals, yet its -<a id='Page_27'></a>simple beauty pleased me more than anything I had -yet seen.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Remounting, we soon arrived at Dover, where we -slept, when the packet-boat captain had sufficiently -disturbed us.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 25.</i>—This day was spent at Dover. The -greater part was occupied in procuring what had -been neglected in London, and in seeing the carriage -well packed up. After dinner, however, we went in -search of Churchill's tomb, raised, we had learned, to -his memory by his friend Wilkes. Arrived at the -house of the sexton, he led us to a ruined church, -passing through which we came into a churchyard, -where children, heedless and unconscious of what -they trampled on, sportively ran amid the raised turf -graves. He pointed out to us a tombstone, undistinguished -from those of the tradesmen near him, -having merely, like them, a square tablet stuck into -the ground, whereon was written, "Here lie the -remains of the celebrated Churchill.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"Life to the last enjoyed, here Churchill lies.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c013'><i>Candidate.</i>"</div> - -<p class='c006'>[By Churchill.] The green turf was beginning already -to decay upon his tomb, which when the sexton heard -us lamenting he assured us that his grave, as well as -the rest, would be newly decked as soon as Nature -<a id='Page_28'></a>had vested its fullest green—for that was an old custom. -Churchill owed, then, only to a common hand what -the pride of a friend refused—the safety of his burial-place. -Wilkes only sought the gratification of his -vanity. While he consigned his friend's last relics to -the keeping of a tablet, he consigned his own pride in -such a friend to the keeping of a column in his own -grounds. Yet I do not know whether the scene was -not more moving, though no vainly pompous inscription -pointed out the spot where this poet was buried.</p> - -<p class='c006'>There were two authors; one, the most distinguished -of his age; another, whose name is rising -rapidly; (and a third, ambitious for literary distinction). -What a lesson it was for them when, -having asked the sexton if he knew why so many -came to see this tomb, he said: "I cannot tell; I had -not the burying of him."</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Byron, after settling in the Villa Diodati near -Geneva, recorded this same incident in a composition -entitled <i>Churchill's Grave, a Fact Literally Rendered</i>. -He wrote a memorandum to say that in this poem he -had intentionally imitated the style of Wordsworth, -"its beauties and its defects." The composition -therefore is essentially un-Byronic in method, and -perhaps Wordsworth would not have recognized in -it many of his own "beauties." The lines are as -follows—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><a id='Page_29'></a>"I stood beside the grave of him who blazed</div> - <div class='line in2'>The comet of a season, and I saw</div> - <div class='line'>The humblest of all sepulchres, and gazed</div> - <div class='line in2'>With not the less of sorrow and of awe</div> - <div class='line'>On that neglected turf and quiet stone,</div> - <div class='line'>With name no clearer than the names unknown</div> - <div class='line'>Which lay unread around it. And I ask'd</div> - <div class='line in2'>The gardener of that ground why it might be</div> - <div class='line'>That for this plant strangers his memory task'd,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Through the thick deaths of half a century.</div> - <div class='line'>And thus he answered: 'Well, I do not know</div> - <div class='line'>Why frequent travellers turn to pilgrims so:</div> - <div class='line'>He died before my day of sextonship,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And I had not the digging of this grave.'</div> - <div class='line'>And is this all? I thought; and do we rip</div> - <div class='line in2'>The veil of immortality, and crave</div> - <div class='line'>I know not what of honour and of light</div> - <div class='line'>Through unborn ages, to endure this blight</div> - <div class='line'>So soon and so successless? As I said,</div> - <div class='line'>The architect of all on which we tread</div> - <div class='line'>(For earth is but a tombstone) did essay</div> - <div class='line'>To extricate remembrance from the clay</div> - <div class='line'>Whose minglings might confuse a Newton's thought,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Were it not that all life must end in one,</div> - <div class='line'>Of which we are but dreamers. As he caught</div> - <div class='line in2'>As 'twere the twilight of a former sun,</div> - <div class='line'>Thus spoke he: 'I believe the man of whom</div> - <div class='line'>You wot, who lies in this selected tomb,</div> - <div class='line'>Was a most famous writer in his day;</div> - <div class='line'>And therefore travellers step from out their way</div> - <div class='line'>To pay him honour;—and myself whate'er</div> - <div class='line'>Your honour pleases.' Then most pleased I shook</div> - <div class='line'>From out my pocket's avaricious nook</div> - <div class='line'>Some certain coins of silver, which (as 'twere</div> - <div class='line'>Perforce) I gave this man—though I could spare</div> - <div class='line'>So much but inconveniently. Ye smile</div> - <div class='line'>(I see ye, ye profane ones, all the while)</div> - <div class='line'><a id='Page_30'></a>Because my homely phrase the truth would tell.</div> - <div class='line'>You are the fools, not I; for I did dwell</div> - <div class='line'>With a deep thought and with a softened eye</div> - <div class='line'>On that old sexton's natural homily,</div> - <div class='line'>In which there was obscurity and fame—</div> - <div class='line'>The glory and the nothing of a name."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>Charles Churchill the satirist, a clergyman who -had given up his standing in the Church, had -died in 1764 at Boulogne, aged only thirty-three. -It is clear that his renown was still considerable -in 1816; it is now barely more than a literary -reminiscence.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>We then returned home, where, having delivered -my play into their hands, I had to hear it laughed at—(an -author has always a salvo) partly, I think, -from the way in which it was read. One of the party, -however—to smoothe, I suppose, my ruffled spirits—took -up my play, and apparently read part with -great attention, drawing applause from those who -before had laughed. He read on with so much -attention that the others declared he had never been -so attentive before.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Further on it would appear that this play was -named <i>Cajetan</i>. I know nothing about it. The name -Cajetan is in Italian Gaetano, which was the Christian -name of Polidori's father.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>I afterwards went out, and did a very absurd thing, -which I told; and found I had not only hurt myself -<a id='Page_31'></a>but might possibly hurt others for whom I cared -much more.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 26.</i>—We embarked at 9 o'clock, much -hurried, with three servants.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This means, to judge from a published letter by -Byron, 9 o'clock on the evening of April 25. The -three servants were Berger (a Swiss), William -Fletcher, and Robert Rushton. Mr. Davies and Mr. -Hobhouse, it will be understood, remained ashore.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>When at a distance, we waved our hands and hats, -bidding adieu. The wind was completely in our -teeth, but we made the passage in sixteen hours. -The coast of Dover is very striking, though miserably -barren-looking. The cliff is steep, though not such -as Shakespear paints. The castle—at a distance, -which is the only way I viewed it—is miserable. -Sailing from England, I for a long time kept my eye -upon its stern white cliffs, thinking on her who bade -me join her remembrance with the last sight of my -native soil.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This points pretty clearly to a love-passage, perhaps -a matrimonial engagement. As a fact Polidori never -married. The lady may possibly have been Eliza -Arrow, a relative in India, with whom he, at a rather -earlier date, had interchanged various letters.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>They at last faded from my sight, and all on board -looked dreary; the sea dashed over us, and all wore -<a id='Page_32'></a>an aspect of grief. Towards night a most beautiful -spectacle was seen by myself, who alone remained on -deck. The stars shedding merely a twilight enabled -me to see the phosphoric light of the broken foam in -all its splendour. But the most beautiful moment was -that of its first appearance: no sound around save the -sullen rushing of the vessel, and the hoarse cries of -the heaving sailor; no light save a melancholy -twilight, which soothed the mind into forgetfulness of -its grief for a while—a beautiful streak following the -lead through the waves. We arrived at Ostend at -2 o'clock in the morning.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Polidori's chronology is a little confusing here. If -the party left Dover at 9 p.m. on April 25, and -took sixteen hours in the sea-passage, they must have -reached Ostend at 1 in the <i>afternoon</i>. There is also -a confusion immediately afterwards, for he repeats -the date for which he has already accounted, viz.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 26.</i>—We passed through the gates, paying -a franc a head, and went to the Cour Impériale. We -were astonished at the excellent inn and good treatment, -except that I got a dreadful headache from -the smell of paint in my bedroom, and that the tea -was perfumed.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It was, I believe, at this point of the narrative that -my aunt Charlotte Polidori cut out a peccant passage. -I seem to remember the precise diction of it, which -<a id='Page_33'></a>was this: "As soon as he reached his room, Lord -Byron fell like a thunderbolt upon the chambermaid." -Such at any rate was the substance of the statement. -The other statement which my aunt excluded came -somewhat further on, when Dr. Polidori was staying -near Geneva. He gave some account of a visit of his -to some haunt of the local Venus Pandemos. I think -the police took some notice of it. The performance -was not decorous, but was related without any verbal -impropriety.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Arising in the morning, I went upon a stroll round -the town. Saw little girls of all ages with head-dresses; -books in every bookseller's window of the -most obscene nature; women with wooden shoes; -men of low rank basking in the sun as if that would -evaporate their idleness. The houses generally good -old style, very like a Scotch town, only not quite so -filthy. Very polite custom-house officers, and very -civil waiters. Fine room painted as a panorama, all -French-attitudinized. Went into a shop where no one -spoke French. Tried German; half-a-dozen women -burst out laughing at me. Luckily for myself, in a -good humour; laughed with them. Obliged to buy -two books I did not want, because I let a quarto fall -upon a fine girl's head while looking at her eyes. -Coaches of the most horrid construction; apparently -some fine horses, others small. Fortifications look -<a id='Page_34'></a>miserable. Once stood a fine siege, when 40,000 on one -side and 80 on the other fed fowls and manured the -fields. What for? For religion? No—for money. -<i>There</i> was the spring of all. As long as only religion -and rights were affected, bigoted religionists and wild -republicans were alone concerned; but a step too far, -and all was ruined.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The allusion here is to the great siege of Ostend, -1601 to 1604.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>We set off at 3, with four horses. Postillion with -boots to his hips, nankeens, leather hat with quaker -brim, only neatly rounded with black riband; a blue -and red coat, joined to which a most rascally face, with -lips that went a few lines beyond the brim of his hat. -A dreadful smacker of his whip, and a driver of four -horses from the back of one of the hindermost. We -were obliged to hire a calèche to send with our luggage. -The rascal made us pay three times too much -at each of his barriers; but, after having (on account -of the horses not being ready at the next post) gone -beyond his beat, he allowed the toll-keepers to be -honest, and only take a few centimes instead of a -franc. The country very flat, highly cultivated; sand, -no waste. Roads paved in the middle, with trees on -each side. Country, from the interspersion of houses, -spires, cottages, etc., delightful; everything comfortable, -no appearance of discontent.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_35'></a>We got out of our carriage at a place where the -horses ate bread and hay, and walked on to a church-yard, -where we found no tombstones, no funeral-pomp, -no flattering eulogy, but simply a wooden cross at -each grave's head and foot. On the side of the church-steeple, -at a little height, was made a niche wherein -statues formed a crucifixion, as an object to excite -reverence and adoration of God in every passenger. -We passed on, and arrived at Bruges at the fall of -the evening. Our passports were dispensed with on -our mentioning that we were not stopping. We -entered one of the most beautiful towns I ever saw; -every house seemed substantial—had some ornament -either of fretwork or lines—all seem clean and neat. -We stopped at the post. We were shown into the -postmaster's parlour on our asking for something to -eat—well furnished—better even than a common -middleman's house in London. N.B.—Everywhere -6 francs for a bottle of Rhenish. Women generally -pretty. Flemish face has no divinity—all pleasing -more than beautiful—a sparkling eye in a full round. -Their pictures of every age have the mark of their -country.</p> - -<p class='c006'>As we went from Bruges, twilight softened all the -beauty, and I do not know how to describe the feeling -of pleasure we felt in going through its long roof-fretted -streets, bursting on to spots where people were -<a id='Page_36'></a>promenading amidst short avenues of trees. We -passed on. At the gates I saw a boy with sand in -his hand let it through his fingers laughingly, heedless -of the myriads whose life hung upon each sand. -We passed on at 10. We came to a village where we -heard the sound of music. The innkeeper, on our -enquiring what it was, asked us politely in to hear a -concert of amateurs. We descended, and were gratified -and surprised at hearing, in a village of 5000 souls, -a full band playing difficult though beautiful music. -One march particularly struck us. But what was -our surprise, when the door opened, to view the -group: none apparently above the rank of labourers, -yet they met three times a week. In our country the -amusement is to reel drunk as many. There was -one figure manifestly consumptive, yet he was blowing -an enormous trombone.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Within a few miles of Gand, I was wakened from -a pleasant fireside in England by my companion saying -"They have lost their way"; and, seeing a house -near me, I jumped out to enquire, when to my great -fear I saw it was deserted. I immediately suspected -something, and went back for a pistol, and then -thundered at the door; no one came. Looking -round, I saw other houses; towards which upon my -moving the postillion got off, and, telling me in -French, as a consolation, that he could not understand -<a id='Page_37'></a>it, went with me towards a house where there -was light, and suddenly ran off. I immediately went -to the carriage, and we gave sabres to the servants; -when he ran back from out of sight, and knocked -again at the door and roused two, who told us the -way. By the by, we had crossed several times the -bridge, and from the road and back again, whereas -we had nothing to do but to go straight on, instead of -which he crossed over and was going back in the -direction of Bruges, when our servant stopped him. -I cannot explain his conduct; he was dreadfully -frightened.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We arrived at Ghent at 3 in the morning, and -knocked some time at the gates, but at last, by means -of a few francs, got through—passports not asked for. -Got to the Hôtel des Pays Bas, where Count Artois -resided while at Ghent. We were ushered into a -splendid room, got excellent Rhenish, butter, cheese, -etc., and went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 27.</i>—At Gand Charles the Ist of Spain was -born. It was here he really showed the insufficiency of -ambition and all the joys of manhood. After having -at Brussels resigned to Philip his extensive dominions, -he came here, and enjoyed many days while passing -over the scenes of his youth, which neither the splendour -attached to a European or an Indian crown nor -to the conquests of his powerful and noble views could -<a id='Page_38'></a>efface. He did not seek Pavia; no, it was at Gand -that he sought for his last draught of worldly joy. -The town was worthy of it, if beauty and antiquity, if -riches and liberty with all their train, could render it -worthy of him. This town has all the beauty of -Bruges, but more extensive: finer houses perhaps, -fine cathedral, fine paintings, fine streets, fine canal. -The streets are perhaps the finest I have seen; not so -unpleasantly regular as London, not so high, but more -rich in outside.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We visited the Cathedral; and, after having been -accustomed to the tinselly ornaments of our Catholic -chapels, and the complete want of any in the Scotch -and English churches, we were much pleased with the -Cathedral's inside dress: paintings that were by the -hand of masters; the fortune of a bishop expended -in building the part near the altar in marble and -statues not contemptible, united with the airy, high -fretted roof and little light, impressive of awe. Under -this Cathedral is the first Belgian church that was -built in the reign of Charlemagne, 800 years, I think, -after Christ. It is low-roofed, but so strong it bears -the weight of the Cathedral upon it. There were -several paintings preserved in it (before the date of -oil-painting), where the colours are mixed with white -of egg. Some curious tombs, where the different -styles are evident. In the earliest tomb some of the -<a id='Page_39'></a>draperies on the relief are in a bold fine style. One -of the earliest has a bishop, where all his robes are -carved out, with almost the threads of his vest. -Others, however, are for general effect. We mounted -450 steps to the top of the steeple; whence we saw -a complete horizon of plain, canals, intersecting trees, -and houses and steeples thrown here and there, with -Gand below at our feet. The sea at a distance, bound -by the hands of man, which pointed "So far shall ye -go and no farther." Bruges held in the horizon its -steeples to our view, and many hamlets raised from -out their surrounding wood their single spires to -sight.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Treading again the iron-plated 450 stairs, we came -into the street; and, mounting into a fiacre, we went -to the Ecole de Dessin, where we found a well-provided -gallery of paintings, with two students, unmoved by -the visitors around, painting with the patience if not -the genius of Dutch masters. They were rather a -nuisance on the present occasion, as one covered with -his machine a <i>chef d'œuvre</i> of Rubens, the <i>St. Roch -amongst the Sick of the Plague</i>. There were two more -by the same, of St. Roch and his Dog, etc. They -were in a different style of colouring—sombre and -grey; none of his gay draperies that I, no connoisseur, -thought were constituents of Rubens. I saw—I do not -remember whose, but—a picture that struck me much, -<a id='Page_40'></a><i>The Beheading of St. Jean</i>, where all the interest and -beauty consisted in a dog smelling the dead body. -There were two of Van Eyck, the first (according to -the Flemish) who invented painting in oil; where the -colouring was splendid and very like the stiffness of -glass, but the faces were very good. Kruger had -many here in honour of Charles the Vth. Amongst -the others, one rather (though probably not meant as -such) satirical: Charles, landing, takes hold of Dame -Africa, who quietly points to a lion at her feet. Query—to -drive him away? There was a <i>Judgment of -Solomon</i> by the same, where the child was painted -dead with most perfect nature; so much so that my -companion, who is a father, could not bear its sight. -Teniers has here a <i>Temptation of St. Anthony</i>: strange -caricature—what a satire! If mere deceit is the acme -of perfection, some Dutchmen may snatch the palm -from either Apelles or Parrhasius. They paint boards -with an engraving upon them, or a door,<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c014'><sup>[1]</sup></a> or aught -else, so inimitably that it deceived my friend. We -went into the Academy of Casts, of Design, etc. -There are generally 400 pupils in this town: many -fall off annually without great advancement, and are -trod on the heels by others.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_41'></a>We thence proceeded to another (we might say) -cathedral. The steeple is not yet finished: the model -is exhibited, with the curses of the Flemish exhibitors -upon the "grande nation" for having taken the funds -for its finishing. There are more good pictures than -even in the Cathedral: the columns also please me -more, being round, with a Gothic approach to Corinthian -capital. The most beautiful painting I have yet -seen is here (though I probably shall not be held out -in my opinion by connoisseurs)—by Pollent, representing -the trial of the true Cross upon a sick lady. -The harmony of colouring, the soberness (without -the commonly accompanying dulness) of the colouring, -the good design and grouping, are, in my -opinion, beautiful. Not even the splendid colouring -of Rubens can make his pictures, in my eyes, equal -to it.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[I do not know who is the painter termed Pollent -by Polidori: on p. 50 there is the name Polenck, -which may designate the same painter. Neither of -these names can be traced by me in a catalogue of -pictures in the Museum of Antwerp.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>There is one standing by it, of Vandyck, which has -some sublimity in it, perhaps arising from indistinctness. -It represents the effect of Christ's last sigh. By -this altar stood twelve small pictures, hung out at this -time for people to tread the "way of Calvary," representing -<a id='Page_42'></a>the different stages of our Saviour's sufferings. -There were many more pictures, but I cannot remember; -seeing so many crowded in the Gallery put -others out of my head. But there were painted in the -Cathedral of St. Bavon, on the marble in the style -of reliefs, different subjects of Scripture in a most -masterly style; and so well were the shades managed -that we could hardly believe the cicerone when he -assured us they were paintings.</p> - -<p class='c006'>In the Gallery of Casts there were the statues of -two English ladies of London by an artist who resided -thirty years there, and upon his return bestowed these -as his finest works. The faces, though not perfect or -Grecian, I must say for my countrywomen, pleased -me almost as much as any Venus de' Medici.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I have found the people polite, so far as showing -the way and then not waiting for a reward—taking -off their hats as if <i>you</i> had done them the favour.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 28.</i>—We set off at 8 this morning to go to -Anvers; but, after having proceeded some way, one -of the wheels refused to turn, and, after at the next -village hammering a long while, I rode off in a passing -calèche to Ghent, where I put a maréchal with his -assistant into a voiture, and, mounting myself on -horseback, returned to the coach. My horse was particularly -fond of the shade; and, a house being near -one of the barriers, he kindly stopped there to cool -<a id='Page_43'></a>me. I, after waiting some time, began to press him -to go forward, when he kicked etc. We went, while -the carriage was being repaired, into a cottage, where -all was extremely neat, and we saw two pictures in -it that certainly would not shame the collection of -many of our <i>soi-disant</i> cognoscenti. The old man -was sick of a fever; and, upon giving him medicine, -his kind half sympathetically fell ill of a toothache. -Never did I see such chips of the old block as his two -daughters. They were very kind. It being Sunday, -we saw all the women of the village—all ugly: indeed, -I have not seen a pretty woman since I left Ostend.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This reference to April 28 as being a Sunday puts -a stop to any preceding question as to the right day -of the month, for in fact April 28, 1816, <i>was</i> a Sunday.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>On proceeding on our journey, we were stopped for -our passports, and the fellow began bullying us, thinking -we were French; but, when he heard we were -English, he became cap in hand, and let us go: indeed, -we have not yet shown our passports.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Having eaten, I issued forth in search of the Promenade, -and found the canal with walks called La -Copeure. Many ladies, all ugly without exception—the -only pretty woman being fat and sixty. It very -much resembled the Green Basin, where our West-end -cits trot on one another's heels with all possible care: -not quite so crowded. Coming back, I tourized to the -<a id='Page_44'></a>Roi d'Espagne, where, as in a coffeehouse, I found -a room full of disreputable women and card-tables. -This, instead of the streets, is the lounge for such -women. I went to the Café Grand, where by means -of mirrors some excellent effects are produced. -There also were billiards, cards, dice, etc. A cup of -coffee, some centimes; a glass of lemonade, two sous: -a woman presides at the end of the room.</p> - -<p class='c006'>"Lord Byron" was in the <i>Ghent Gazette</i>. Lord -Byron encouraged me to write <i>Cajetan</i>, and to continue -being a tragedian. Murray offered £150 for -two plays, and £500 for my tour.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 29.</i>—Looking from my window, I saw a -native dashing about in a barouche and four. There -is in the town a society of nobles, and another of -literati. Mr. Scamp has a fine collection of pictures, -which I did not see. In Ghent, as well as in all other -places where I have been, the barber's sign is Mambrino's -helm. On the Sunday mornings there is a -market for flowers in pot in the Place des Armes.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We set off at 11 in the morning, and passed -through some fine villages: one of which, St. Nicholas, -the mistress of the inn told me Buonaparte -made into a town—"mais il n'y a pas des postes." -The country is tiresomely beautiful. Fine avenues, -which make us yawn with admiration; not a single -variation; no rising ground—yes, one spot raised -<a id='Page_45'></a>for a windmill. The landscape is as unchangeable -as the Flemish face. The houses white-washed, -with a row of trees before them; the roofs tiled, and -the windows large. Indeed, the appearance of comfort -in the places we have passed through is much -greater than any I have seen in England. We -have only seen one country-villa, and that very English: -its pasture had the only firs we have yet seen. -The avenues are sometimes terminated by a church -or a house—the church very ugly; and both very -tiresome, as they always prove much farther off than -is at first expected. The ground cultivated, and without -a weed—no waste ground. The plough moves as -if cutting water, the soil is so light a sand. Women -work in the fields as well as men. No more difference -is found in the face of the inhabitants than in the face -of the country. Nothing striking, all evenness, no -genius, much stupidity. They seemed to spend all -their fund of cleanliness upon their fields and houses, -for they carry none about them.</p> - -<p class='c006'>An oldish man wears a three-cornered cocked hat, -capacious breeches, black or blue stockings, buckles, -and a great-coat; young, fancy travelling-caps. The -women wear enormous gold earrings, large wooden -shoes. Their dress is a kind of bed-gown, like the -Scotch. Young girls of eight in town have their hair -dressed with a net or cap. In towns and villages -<a id='Page_46'></a>the better peasant-women wear a black silk mantle -with a hood, that looks well. Multitudes of children -everywhere, who tumble and run by the side of the -carriage to gain a few centimes. In the larger villages -the market-places are splendidly large, with a little -square place in the middle, with pollards and a statue. -The houses seem comfortable everywhere. Going -into the house of a postmaster, we saw some English -prints. At another, our servants having got down -and comfortably seated themselves to a bottle of -wine etc., the postmistress, on our getting out, took -<i>us</i> for the servants, and told us "the messieurs Anglais -were in yon room"—and then made us a thousand -apologies. At every posthorse place there is kept -a book of the posts: many barriers—every 1-1/2 mile.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Gand they had told us we could not reach -Anvers without passing the Scheldt at 2 o'clock—we -passed it at 6-1/2.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The town of Antwerp makes a good figure at a -distance, chiefly on account of its Cathedral, which -has a very airy appearance, the steeple showing the -sky between its meeting arches. About five steeples. -The fortifications, which enabled Carnot to make such -a defence, produce no great effect on the sight.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The defence by Carnot was, when Polidori wrote, -a quite recent event, 1814.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The Scheldt is a fine river, not so large as our -<a id='Page_47'></a>Thames, and covered with ugly Dutch vessels. We -passed our coach in a boat.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This coach was a formidable affair. According -to Mr. Pryse Lockhart Gordon, it was "copied from -the celebrated one of Napoleon taken at Genappe, -with additions. Besides a <i>lit de repos</i>, it contained a -library, a plate-chest, and every apparatus for dining."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>On landing, twenty porters ran off with our things -to a cart. As they were passing, one in all the pomp -of office stopped us, and asked for our passports, which -(on handing to him) he detained, giving his directions -to the police.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The older parts of Antwerp have a novel and -strange effect by the gable-ends being all to the -street, ornamented—very acute angles. The Place de -Meer is fine. The old street, the finest I ever saw, -has some fine houses. Many of the houses have -English labels on them. In our sitting-room are two -beds. Indeed, the towns are beautiful: their long -streets, their houses all clean-stuccoed or white-washed, -with strange old-fashioned fronts, the frequent -canals, the large places and venerable cathedrals. -Their places are much finer than our squares, for they -contain trees, and are open without railing.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to the café, and saw all playing at dominoes. -Read <i>The Times</i> till the 23rd. Fine furniture, everywhere -of cherry-tree.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_48'></a>At Gand in the Cathedral the cicerone laid great -stress on the choir-seats being all made of solid acajou. -The master of the inn at Ghent assures me the -carriage of Buonaparte was made in Paris—the body-carriage -at Brussels: no English work. Plenty of -Americans in the town.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>April 30.</i>—Got up late, and went to look at the -carriage, and found that the back had been not of the -best-made. Called a maréchal, who assured me it -could not be better. Breakfasted. Then looked at -an old calèche, for which asked 60 naps. Refused it.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Got, with a guide, a calèche to see the lions. The -town is large: apparently, not a proportionable -quantity of misery. Women better-looking. At all -the fountains, Madonnas—and upon all the corners -of the streets, with lamps before them. Lamps with -reverberators strung on ropes into the middle of the -streets. Went to the Cathedral. Everywhere we -have been, dreadful complaints of French vandalism. -In this chapel it has been shameless: once crowded -with altars of marble, now there are about five—only -two marble, the others painted in imitation. Pictures -were stolen—altars sold by auction—only one saved, -bought by a barber for a louis. The others, with all -the tombs, monuments, everything, broken by these -encouragers of the fine arts. So great was the ruin -that there were five feet of fragments over the church—even -<a id='Page_49'></a>the columns that support the roof were so -much defaced that they were obliged, in restoring it, -to pare them all much thinner. Some pictures were -carried to Paris, of which some are now about to be -replaced. It was the feast of St. Anthony, and many -candles were burning about, and some relics were -fixed above the doors. In many parts of the chapel -were frames containing silver representations, very -small, of bad limbs etc., offered by the devout. Many -images over altars, dressed out in silk and taffeta: -most common one, the Virgin Mary. Though the -French acted with all the spirit of Vandals and true -Gauls, yet to their very mischief is owing the greatest -beauty of the Cathedral, the choir not being divided -from the church, so that from one end to the other -there is a complete perspective and one of the finest -effects I have seen, the airiness and length being now -proportionate. There is one great defect in the internal -decorations—that they are Greek. What bad taste -it is to ornament Gothic with Corinthian columns -must be evident: to make it also more glaring, the -marble is all coloured. There is here a fine marble -altar-railing. Indeed, in all the churches we have -here seen they are beautiful—especially where boys, -called in Italian "puttini," are sculptured. The confessionals -are of wood, with evangelical figures, nearly -as large as life, between each box—not badly carved.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_50'></a>We went to see another church, wherein is the -tomb of Rubens.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This is the Church of St. Jâques.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>It is in a chapel by itself, where annually a mass -is said for his soul. It is worthy of him: ornamented -by a painting, by himself, of St. George, and a statue -he brought with him from Rome of the Holy Virgin. -The church in which he is buried was saved from -pillage by the priests belonging to it revolutionizing. -It is crowded with altars and pictures—some Rubens, -some Polenck, and others. There is a painting by -Metsys, who originally was a maréchal, and who with -his mere hammer formed the decorations to a pump, -which are not bad. The Latin inscription on his -monumental stone refers to a story related of him: -that, upon courting the daughter of Francis Floris, -the artist with indignation talked about the dirty -rascal's impudence, he being merely a blacksmith; -on which Metsys set off for Rome, and upon his -return asked the daughter to introduce him to her -father's room of painting: where, finding a picture -not finished, he painted a bee—that excited the indignation -of Floris's pocket-handkerchief, and gained -him his daughter. I have seen the picture, and it -might be true. The pump is not bad, being merely -beaten into shape. On the top is a giant who used -to cut off merchants' gains by means of tolls, and -<a id='Page_51'></a>their hands by means of axes. He used to throw an -iron band into the scales of his tradesmen; and from -thence, 'tis said, Antwerp got its name.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This may be "said": but a less legendary derivation -of the Flemish name Antwerpen is "aent werf," -or "on the wharf."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The sides of this church all along are lined with -confessionals.</p> - -<p class='c006'>In the Church des Augustins we saw Rubens's -<i>Assembly of the Saints</i>, from Paris; where he has -shown how weak he could be in composition, and in -vanity—for it is the third picture in which he has -put himself in St. George's armour. The composition -is confused, without an object to fix the attention. -A Vandyck near him is much superior.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Polidori's observations about Flemish paintings -are generally indicative of liking, more or less: but -Byron went dead against them. In a letter of his -to his half-sister, Mrs. Leigh, written from Brussels -on May 1, 1816, we find: "As for churches and -pictures, I have stared at them till my brains are -like a guide-book: the last (though it is heresy to -say so) don't please me at all. I think Rubens a -very great dauber, and prefer Vandyck a hundred -times over—but then I know nothing about the -matter. Rubens's women have all red gowns and -red shoulders; to say nothing of necks, of which -<a id='Page_52'></a>they are more liberal than charming. It may all -be very fine, and I suppose it may be art, for 'tis not -nature." Again, in a letter to John Murray from -Milan, October 15, 1816: "The Flemish school, -such as I saw it in Flanders, I utterly detested, -despised, and abhorred."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Here is also the famous picture of Jordaens, of <i>The -Martyrdom of St. Apollonia</i>. Colouring approaches -Rubens; but abominable composition—crowded, large, -numerous figures in a small space. There were some -modern paintings of existing artists—meagre statue-compositions.</p> - -<p class='c006'>In the Musée we saw many Rubenses. The famous -<i>Descent from the Cross</i>: the effect of the white sheet -is wonderfully beautiful. Picture's drawing I do not -like. The Christ seems not dead, as there is certainly -action; but the colouring is splendidly rich. The -<i>Crucifixion</i> near it, inferior in all. In a sketch near -it he has not succeeded so well in the white sheet, it -being not so splendidly white. We could only see -the side-pieces of the great <i>Crucifixion</i>, as the large -piece was being framed. In these there is much -caricature drawing: a woman rising from the dead—surely -a woman large as Guy Warwick giant's wife, -if ever he had one: caricature physiognomies, and -most hellish egregious breasts, which a child refuses, -with horror in its face. His horses have much spirit—true -<a id='Page_53'></a>Flemish size. Indeed, divest Rubens of his rich -apparel, and he is a mere dauber in design. There -is a <i>Mary going to Elizabeth</i>, looking more like a -cardinal: indeed, my companion, Lord Byron, took -her for one of the red-vested nobles. No divinity -about his Christs; putrefaction upon his Gods; exaggerated -passion about his men and women, painted -not all-concealing. In his picture of <i>The Adoration -of the Magi</i>, query did he not intend to play upon -the people by passing off a caricature for a religious -painting? The royal personage in green seems as if -his eyes had grown big after dinner. He has no -costume properly applied: the Virgin in the manger -is dressed meretriciously in silks and lace. Then -look at our blessed Saviour showing His wounds. -His finest painting is his <i>Crucifixion</i> in which is the -white sheet: but there are defects. What then must -be the power of colouring which causes you to view -his paintings with pleasure! It is like melodious -music which makes you forget the absurd words of -an old English song.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Vandyck, in my opinion, was much superior to -Rubens. His colouring, near his, is sombre; but -then his design is more perfect, his impressions -remain longer in the mind distinct, and do not fade -away into ideas of red and blue round white. A -little <i>Crucifix</i> of his is worth his rival's largest -<a id='Page_54'></a>paintings. His <i>Christ Dead</i> is beautiful, wherein are -contained the Blessed Virgin, St. Mary Magdalene, -and St. John weeping: the different expressions of -grief, the unison of colouring with the subject, the -composition, all excellent.</p> - -<p class='c006'>From the Cathedral we went to see the works -of Napoleon. We first saw the Basins. They are -not so large as our West India Docks—square—but -are capable of holding ships of the line; there are -two. Between them is what was formerly the -Hanseatic Hall, now magazines. When the English -were last here they threw bombs, but this was of no -avail; dung was put upon the ships, and men were -at hand in case of fire. From the Basins we went -along the quays—very long, along the labouring -Scheldt; then into the places for marine arsenals, -where the vessels were on the stocks—the finest works -I ever saw, now useless through our jealousy. The -rope-house, quite finished, is enormously long, and is -to be pulled down. The timbers for the ship were -numbered, and carried to Amsterdam. The citadel -was mean-looking, though so strong. The chief -batteries are as old as Alva's time—there was one -pointed out as erected by Colonel Crawford. Before -Napoleon's time there was little done towards the -formation of these basins and others; but, said our -guide, "he decreed they should be made, and they -<a id='Page_55'></a>appeared." They are all surrounded with high walls -to hinder the escape of the employed. Carnot has -commanded here twice. He was rather disliked, yet -they had rather have him than any other. They all -agree in his genius. In the time of the Walcheren -business the English were expected with open arms: -only three hundred soldiers—Bernadotte was general. -The siege was not very strict on the last occasion, -and no mischief was done on either side. In the -Basins there have been twenty-six line. In the dread -of a siege all the suburbs were destroyed and all the -trees around. The suburbs rose immediately, the -trees in years. In the citadel there are 1500 forçats. -Sometimes the number exceeds 2000.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Having seen thus much, we returned, lunched, and -rode off. Hardly gone a little way when our carriage -broke down. The trees are more various—vegetation -more advanced—more inequality of ground—more -pollards—more apparent misery—more villas, some -pretty—more clipped hedges—more like England—fine, -large, town-like villages. Carriage broke again—walked -to Malines—arrived there at ten. Women -improve.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Antwerp, in one church on the outside, saw a -supposed exact imitation of the Sepulchre, though I -do not know how it came seated "in purgatory"; as -there certainly is a place so called round it, full of -<a id='Page_56'></a>the damned and flames. The place is grotto-work. -Within there is a representation of our Lord swathed -in linen. All over there are statues, so so. David is -at a respectable distance from purgatory: this makes -it the more remarkable that the Sepulchre is seated -in purgatory. Indeed, indeed, there is much absurdity.</p> - -<p class='c006'>There is an academy for drawing and painting, -with a museum. The Place is in a garden.</p> - -<p class='c006'>On arriving at Malines we found Mr. Pradt gone -from his bishopric amongst his brethren; and we are -assured he was a "vraiment français," and that he -was not a "Catholique," and that this town wanted a -"vraiment Catholique."</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The Abbé de Pradt, born in Auvergne in 1759, -had been a champion of the monarchy in the Constituent -Assembly of 1789-91. Napoleon made him -Archbishop of Malines towards 1809, but afterwards -viewed him with disfavour. He resigned the Archbishopric -in 1816, receiving a pension. He wrote a -number of books on political and public matters, and -died in 1837.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The country from Antwerp to Malines becomes -more and more like England: trees more various, -not the same dead flat but varied with gentle swells, -many pollards, and more miserable cottages.</p> - -<p class='c006'>There is in the Cathedral [in Antwerp] a painting -by Floris—the one on which is the bee—where he has -<a id='Page_57'></a>shown great imagination and fire in the devils. It is -the victory of the angels when fighting against the -devils.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 1.</i>—As soon as up, I went to the Cathedral, -which has a fine tower. On entering I saw many -pictures. None that I saw seemed particularly good. -The church was pretty full of people, who really -seemed devout. They were not the old and weak, -but there was of every age. The young maiden was -seen by the side of decrepit age, beauty by deformity, -childhood by manhood. The effect on the mind is -contagious. Many masses were going on at the -same time. A woman went round for money for the -chairs. Here I saw the first Christian caryatides.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We soon set off for Brussels. Between V. and -that town the road is beautiful; a canal on one side, -fine trees forming a long avenue diversified with -glimpses of a rich country. We passed the Castle of -Lac, the former residence of Buonaparte. It has a -fine front upon an eminence, but the dome stands -forth in glaring ugliness. We entered Brussels by -the Allée Verte, a fine promenade.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Brussels, the old town, is not so fine as Antwerp, -Ghent, or Bruges. The Grand Marché is very beautiful, -only the buildings seem to be neglected. Fine -public offices, with a tall spire, on one side—the Mairie -opposite. The Place Royale is very fine; the fronts -<a id='Page_58'></a>of the houses and hotels around seeming together -to form parts of one great palace; and the church on -one side, with the housy wings, has a fine effect in -spite of the ugly tower at the top. The gardens are -beautiful with green, and well laid out in walks, -with groups and termites—the Palace opposite. The -entrance from the Place Royale presents a fine front, -and the suburbs round it are also good. We are at -the Hôtel d'Angleterre. Saw <i>Morning Chronicles</i>, -which are again dutysied.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Brussels was not at all fortified in the Waterloo -time. The Germans at one time had retreated as far -as the gates, which were obliged to be shut against -them. In case of a retreat there would have been a -pleasant rush, almost as great as at a fashionable -rout, as they must all have passed through Brussels. -The carriage was put under hand. Crowds of -English.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 2.</i>—We have seen many, many soldiers. No -wonder they were light of foot when not more heavy -of age, for none have beards yet except some few -cavalry.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The English women are the only good-looking -women in Brussels; though, with true English -Bullism, they vest <i>here</i> a complete Anglomanian -costume, preserving their French fashions for the -English winds to waft. The women of Brabant and -<a id='Page_59'></a>the Netherlands are all ugly to the eye after the -piquant begins to pall, for there are no regular -beauties or beauty of expression, except that levity -which tells of lightness of cares and youth.</p> - -<p class='c006'>It is not for a foreigner to call a thing absurd -because it does not tally with his ideas, or the -ladies' costume, except the black mantle, should be -put down as such by me. The men also are short -and bad-looking, either consummate impudence -or complete insignificance—no individuality. The -indelicacy of these Belgians is gross; all kinds of -disgusting books publicly sold, and exposed to the -eyes of all young damsels—beastliness publicly -exhibited on the public monuments—fountains with -men vomiting with effort a stream of water—and -still worse. The town (Brussels) is situated on an -eminence, and is really poor in comparison of the -other Belgic towns by us seen.</p> - -<p class='c006'>After dinner, having dressed, I went, having written -two letters, to the theatre. Mounting a voiture, I was -soon there. Ascending some stairs, I came to a door -where, after some knocking, a man took my money, -and gave me tickets, which, changed twice, brought -me to the first row of boxes. The first look at the -lobbies was sufficient to give me an idea of all the -rest—misery, misery, misery, wherever one turned—to -the floor, to the ceiling, to the wall, to the box-wall, -<a id='Page_60'></a>all garret of the St. Giles style. Most of the -doors had <i>Abonnement</i> written on them. I got into -one, and what a sight! boxes dirty with filth. One -chandelier was sufficient for the pockets of a Brussels -manager, hung from the middle. Pit divided into -two parts of different prices, boxes into three, -and a gallery. Chairs, not benches, in the boxes. -Ladies came and sat and talked, and talked and sat -and stood, and went away. Many English ladies. -Orchestra began—all violins, seven in all. Curtain -up—a farce: no—it did not make me laugh. How -call that a theatrical amusement which only seems -fitted to excite the pleasurable sensation of yawning? -It was French. An actress, the best amongst -them, spoke French like a base pig; another contorted -the fine lady into one with a paralytic stroke -after sitting up at cards; the gentlemen like purlieu-bullies; -and high life was copied from the waiting-maids -of butchers' ladies. I was a little surprised at -the applause that a lady actress gained. It moved -me astonishingly: not her acting, but the lookers-on -acting pleasure. At last came the wind whistling -through the reeds, the thunder-hurling cheeks, and lashing -hands, to my great admiration. It moved phlegm.</p> - -<p class='c006'>One who was to act Blondel was vomiting at -home. I went behind the scenes, and saw dismay in -every face, and terror in every limb. The curtain -drew up, and the play began. Hisses, hisses, hisses. -<a id='Page_61'></a>It fell, and fear increased. Some time was spent -in cogitation. The venturous gold-decked hero -advanced, retired, was rebuked by the police and -forced to advance. Hisses. He said to the audience -he was forced to advance. They listened, and quiproquos -commenced between the players and the -audience, with the sonorous hiss of anger. The police -saw all was in vain, and ordered the actors off the -boards. I in the meantime was chatting with two -apparent goddesses, who very concisely explained the -trembling of the actors, etc., by telling me of real -showers of eggs, etc. As I left the house I heard -groans and hollow sounds, and cries of "Give me back -my money: I am an <i>abonné</i>, and have seen nothing." -I ran—I and the police pushing on, the mob pushing -us back, etc. Going along the lobbies, what was my -wonder to stumble on a bookseller's shop, where was -an assemblage of delicacies fit for the modest, and -wondrous delicate!</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 3.</i>—I saw in the street three dogs, of the bulldog -race, dragging up a hill at a good pace what I -am sure two men would not have strength to drag. -I saw also a goat fastened to a child's car. I went -all over the town for a calèche—bought one for -75 louis. In the evening, having procured redingotes -(which I did not use), we mounted a coach and drove -to ——. Returned home, ate, and slept.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 4.</i>—Having risen, foolishly paid 40 naps. to -<a id='Page_62'></a>the coachmaker. My Lord and servant stepped into -the calèche. I and a servant got on horseback, and -went to Waterloo. We soon entered Soignies, which -on both sides formed a beautiful wood (not forest, for -it was not wild on either side) for several miles. The -avenue it formed varied in length: sometimes the end -was formed by a turn of the road, sometimes by the -mere perspective effect of narrowing. The trees are -all young—none of above thirty years' growth. We -then reached Waterloo, where were the head-quarters -of Napoleon. An officious host pressed us to order -dinner. We ran from his pressing, and advancing -came to St. Jean, where the boys continued the offerings -we first had at Waterloo of buttons, books, etc. -This was the village which gave the French name to -the battle, I believe, as it was the spot which Napoleon -tried to gain. The view of the plain, as we -advanced to the right, struck us as fields formed -almost with the hopes that spirit and war would make -their havoc here. Gentle risings, sufficient to give -advantage to the attacked—few hedges—few trees. -There was no sign of desolation to attract the passer-by; -if it were not for the importunity of boys, and -the glitter of buttons in their hands, there would be -no sign of war. The peasant whistled as blithely, -the green of Nature was as deep, and the trees waved -their branches as softly, as before the battle. The -<a id='Page_63'></a>houses were repaired. Only a few spots with white -plaster between the bricks pointed out the cannon's -ruin; and in ruins there was only Hougoumont, which -was attacked so bravely and defended so easily—at -least so I should imagine from the few killed in the -garden and the appearance of the whole, while so -many French lay dead in the field. In the garden -were only 25 English killed, while in the field 1500; -and on the other side 600 French, not counting the -wounded, were slain. Indeed, the gallantry, the -resolution and courage, which the French displayed -in attacking this place, guarded from the heights by -our cannon, and by our soldiers through the loop-holes, -would alone ennoble the cause in which they -fought. Before arriving at Hougoumont, the spots -where Hill, Picton, and the Scotch Greys did their -several deeds, were pointed out to us. The spot -which bore the dreadful charge of cavalry is only -marked by a hedge. The cuirassiers advancing, the -Scots divided—showed a masked battery, which fired -grape into the adverse party's ranks—then it was the -Scots attacked. I do not now so much wonder at -their victory. The cuirasses which we saw were almost -all marked with bullets, lance- and sabre-cuts. Buonaparte -and the French, our guide said, much admired -the good discipline and undaunted courage of the -short-kilted Scot. Going forward, the spot at which -<a id='Page_64'></a>the Prussians, the lucky gainers of the battle, emerged, -was pointed out to us—and, a little farther on, we -were shown the spot where Colonel Howard, my -friend's cousin, was buried before being carried to -England. Three trees, of which one is cut down, -mark the spot, now ploughed over. At Hougoumont -we saw the untouched chapel where our wounded -lay, and where the fire consumed the toes of a -crucifix. We there inscribed our names amongst -cits and lords. We found here a gardener who -pointed out the garden—the gate where the French -were all burnt—the gap in the hedge where the -French attempted, after the loss of 1500 men, to -storm the place—the field, quarter of an acre, in -which were heaps of Gallic corpses. The gardener -and the dog, which we saw, had been detained at -Hougoumont by General Maitland in case of a -retreat. The peasants declare that from 4 to 5 -the affair was very, very doubtful, and that at the last -charge of the Imperial Guards Napoleon was certain -of being in Brussels in <i>quatre heures</i>. Wellington, -after the defeat of the Prussians etc., on the 17th -went to Waterloo, and determined where he would -place each corps. This was a great advantage: but, -in spite of the excellence of his position, he would -certainly have been defeated had it not been for the -fortunate advance of the Prussians. From Hougoumont -<a id='Page_65'></a>we went to the red-tiled house which is the -rebuilding of the house where was Buonaparte's last -station and head-quarters. It was from this spot that -he viewed the arrival of the Prussians, under the idea -of their being the corps of Grouchy. It was here he -felt first the certainty of defeat, just after he had led -the old Imperial Guard, in the certainty of victory, to -his last attack. La Belle Alliance next appeared -along the road, here where Wellington and Blücher -met. The name is derived from a marriage in the -time of peace: it is now applicable to a war-meeting. -Thence we returned to St. Jean, after going again to -Hougoumont. There we were shown cuirasses, helms, -buttons, swords, eagles, and regiment-books. We -bought the helms, cuirasses, swords, etc., of an officer -and soldier of cuirassiers, besides eagles, cockades, -etc. Beggars, the result of English profusion. A -dinner, measured by some hungry John Bull's hungry -stomach. We rode off the field, my companion -singing a Turkish song—myself silent, full gallop -cantering over the field, the finest one imaginable -for a battle. The guide told us that the account -Buonaparte's guide gave of him after the battle was -that he only asked the road to Paris, not saying -anything else.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Hougoumont various spots were pointed out: -amongst the rest the one where Maitland stood -<a id='Page_66'></a>watching a telegraph on the neighbouring rise, which -told him what was going on on both sides.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We rode home together through Soignies forest—black. -The twilight made the whole length of the -road more pleasing. On reaching home, we found -the coach was jogged; so much so that it would not -allow us to put confidence in it, etc. At last we gave -it into Mr. Gordon's hands. My friend has written -twenty-six stanzas (?) to-day—some on Waterloo.</p> - -<p class='c006'>There are a few points in this narrative of May 4 -which call for a little comment.</p> - -<p class='c006'>1. As to "the spot where Colonel Howard, my -friend's cousin, was buried before being carried to -England." Few passages in the 3rd canto of <i>Childe -Harold</i>, which in its opening deals with Byron's -experiences in these days, are better known than the -stanzas (29 to 31) where he celebrates the death of -"young gallant Howard." Stanza 30 is the one most -germane to our immediate purpose—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"There have been tears and breaking hearts for thee,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And mine were nothing, had I such to give.</div> - <div class='line in2'>But, when I stood beneath the fresh green tree</div> - <div class='line in2'>Which living waves where thou didst cease to live,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And saw around me the wide field revive</div> - <div class='line in2'>With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring</div> - <div class='line in2'>Come forth her work of gladness to contrive,</div> - <div class='line in2'>With all her reckless birds upon the wing,</div> - <div class='line'>I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>2. The statement that "the coach was jogged" -<a id='Page_67'></a>refers to that calèche which had been just bought in -Brussels for the servants—not to the elaborate travelling-carriage. -Some trouble ensued over the calèche. -The coachmaker who had sold it tried to make Lord -Byron pay up the balance of the price. Not carrying -his point, he got a warrant-officer to seize a different -vehicle, a chaise, belonging to the poet. The latter, -so far as appears, took no further steps.</p> - -<p class='c006'>3. To write twenty-six stanzas in one day is no -small feat; especially if these are the nine-line stanzas -of <i>Childe Harold</i>, and if the substantial work of the -day consisted in riding from Brussels to Waterloo -and back, and deliberately inspecting the field of -battle. The entry, as written by Charlotte Polidori, -stands thus—"26 st.," which I apprehend can only -mean "stanzas." If one were to suppose that the -stanzas thus written on May 4 were the first twenty-six -stanzas of <i>Childe Harold</i>, canto 3 (but this of -course is not a necessary inference), Byron now got -up to the stanza which begins</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"And wild and high the 'Camerons' gathering' rose."</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>I made up my accounts, and was not a little startled -by a deficit of 10 napoleons, which I at last found -was a mere miscalculation. Rode about thirty miles -in all.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Forgot to say I saw Sir Nath[aniel] Wraxall at -<a id='Page_68'></a>Dover, who, having introduced himself to Lord Byron -as a friend <i>de famille</i>, began talking, knocking his feet -in rattattat, still all the while oppressed by feeling -very awkward.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[I do not find in Byron's correspondence any reference -to this interview, on April 25 or 26, with Sir -Nathaniel Wraxall. But, in his letter of April 25 to -his half-sister, he mentions that he met on the 24th -with Colonel Wildman, an old school-fellow, and later -on the purchaser of Newstead Abbey, who gave him -some details concerning the death of Colonel Howard -at Waterloo.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Brussels, the people were in a great stew, the -night of the battle of Waterloo—their servants and -others waking them every minute to tell them the -French were at the gates. Some Germans went there -with mighty great courage, in flight. Lord W[ellington?] -sent to a colonel to enquire whether he was -going to fly from or to the battle, giving him his -choice to act in either way. On hearing this, the said -colonel boldly faced about, and trotted to Brussels -with his troop. A supernumerary aide-de-camp, the -brother of N., with two others, was riding between -the ranks while the French were firing; when, ours -crying out "They aim at you," all three were struck -in the jaw, much in the same place, dead. After the -battle, a friend asking what was become of N., the -<a id='Page_69'></a>serjeant pointed to his feet, saying "There," which -was fact. Dacosta, the guide, says that Buonaparte -was cool and collected till the Prussians arrived; that -then he said to Bertrand, "That appears to be the -Prussian eagle"; and, upon Bertrand's assenting, his -face became momentarily pale. He says that, when -he led up the Imperial Guard, on arriving at the red-tiled -house, he went behind a hillock, so as not to be -seen, and so gave them the slip. Wellington acted -the soldier when he should have acted the general, -and the light-limbed dancer when he should have -been the soldier. I cannot, after viewing the ground, -and bearing in mind the men's superior courage, give -Wellington the palm of generalship that has been -snatched for him by so many of his admirers. -Napoleon only took one glass of wine from the -beginning of the battle to the end of his flight.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 5.</i>—Got up at ten from fatigue. Whilst at -breakfast, there came a Mr. Pryse Gordon for L[ord] -B[yron]. I entertained him. He has been to Italy, -and travelled a great deal—a good-natured gentleman. -Took him to see the carriage: there he introduced -me to his son by means of a trumpet. After -his departure we set off for the Château du Lac, -where we found the hind front much finer than the -other for want of the startling (?) dome and low -windows. It has all its master-apartments on the -<a id='Page_70'></a>ground-floor: they are extremely well laid out both -with regard to comfort and magnificence—they were -furnished by Nap[oleon]. We saw the bed where -Josephine, Marie Louise, and the Queen of Holland, -have been treading fast on one another's heels. The -hall for concerts divides the Emperor's from the -Empress' rooms—it has a rich appearance, and is -Corinthian. The flooring of the Emperor's is all -wood of different colours—checked—having to my eye -a more pleasing appearance than the carpeted ones of -the Empress. I sat down on two chairs on which had -sat he who ruled the world at one time. Some of his -eagles were yet remaining on the chairs. The servant -seemed a little astonished at our bowing before them.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We returned, it raining all the while. After dinner -Mr. G[ordon] came for us to go to coffee. We went, -and were graciously received; Lord B[yron] as himself, -I as a tassel to the purse of merit. I there saw -a painting of Rembrandt's wife or mother by himself, -which was full of life, and some verses by Walter -Scott written in the hostess' album, where he says -Waterloo will last longer than Cressy and Agincourt. -How different! They only agree in one thing—that -they were both in the cause of injustice. The novels of -Casti were presented to me by Mr. Gordon, which I -was rather surprised at. We came over. Scott writes -in M[rs]. G[ordon's] book—</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div><a id='Page_71'></a>"For one brief hour of deathless fame" [Scott].</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"Oh Walter Scott, for shame, for shame" [Byron].</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>[The novels of the Abate Casti (who died in 1803) -are notoriously licentious: hence, I suppose, Polidori's -surprise at the presentation of them by Mr. Gordon. -Byron, it is stated by this gentleman, was asked by -Mrs. Gordon on May 5 to write some lines in her -album. He took the volume away with him, and on -the following day brought it back, having inserted in -it the two opening stanzas on Waterloo forming part -of canto 3 of <i>Childe Harold</i>—from</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"Stop, for thy tread is on an empire's dust,"</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>to</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"He wears the shattered links of the world's broken chain"]</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 6.</i>—Mr. G[ordon] and son came while at breakfast; -gave us letters, etc. Saw the little child again; -B[yron] gave it a doll.</p> - -<p class='c006'>It may be excusable to suppose that this trifling -incident is not wholly foreign to a stanza, 54, in the -3rd canto of <i>Childe Harold</i>. This stanza comes -immediately after Byron has begun to speak of the -Rhine, and incidentally of the affection which his -half-sister bore him. Then he proceeds—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"And he had learn'd to love—I know not why,</div> - <div class='line in2'>For this in such as him seems strange of mood—</div> - <div class='line in2'>The helpless looks of blooming infancy,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Even in its earliest nurture. What subdued,</div> - <div class='line in2'><a id='Page_72'></a>To change like this, a mind so far imbued</div> - <div class='line in2'>With scorn of man, it little boots to know:</div> - <div class='line in2'>But thus it was; and, though in solitude</div> - <div class='line in2'>Small power the nipp'd affections have to grow,</div> - <div class='line'>In him this glow'd when all beside had ceased to glow."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The <i>carrossier</i> came. Set off at two, passing through -a country increasing in inequalities. We arrived first -at Louvain, where we saw the outside of a beautiful -Town-hall, which is one of the prettiest pieces of -external fretwork I have seen. Thence we went to -Tirlemont, where was a Jubilee. Saints and sinners -under the red canopy (the sky dirty Indian-ink one) -were alike in the streets. Every street had stuck in -it, at a few paces from the house-walls, fir-branches -16 or 17 feet high, distant from one another 5 or 6 -feet. Thence to St. Trond, where we ate—and slept, -I suppose. The country is highly cultivated, and -the trees older. The avenues have a more majestic -appearance from the long swells of ground and the -straight roads, but there is more squalid misery than -I have seen anywhere. The houses are many of them -mud, and the only clean part about them is the white-wash -on the external walls. Dunghills before some -must be trodden on before entering the houses. The -towns also fall off greatly in neat and comfortable -looks. The walls round them look ruined and desolate, -and give a great idea of insecurity. We put the -servants on board-wages.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_73'></a><i>May 7.</i>—Set off from St. Trond at 11. The -country is highly cultivated; continual hill and dale; -lower orders miserable in perfection; houses built of -mud, the upper storeys of which are only built of -beams, the mud having fallen off. Bridges thrown -over the dirt they were too idle to remove. Dunghills -at their doors, and ditches with black fetid water -before their first step. Liège has a pretty neighbourhood, -but the town itself is filthy and disagreeable. -They visited our passports here at three -different places. The hill above the town is enormously -steep; and from some way beyond it has a -beautiful view of Liège with its towers and domes—of -the country with its many cots and villas—and of -the Meuse. The road now lies through a scene -where cottages are spread like trees, and hedges -like furrows of corn, the fields are so minutely -divided. A little farther still we had a most splendid -view through many miles. From a valley we -could see everything clearly, crowded in a blue tint, -and in a river through it we could see the shadows -of the trees. The cottages are improving, and the -roads becoming the worst ever seen; paved still, but -so horridly hilled and vallied that the rolling of the -carriage is like the rolling of a ship.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We came at last to Battice; but before entering -we passed by a village where beggar little cherubs -<a id='Page_74'></a>came to the carriage-side, and running cried out, -"Donnez-nous quelque chose, Monsieur le chef de -bataillon"; another, "Monsieur le général." And a -third little urchin, who gesticulated as well as cried, -perceiving the others had exhausted the army, cried, -"Un sou, Messieurs les rois des Hanovériens!" We -arrived at Battice, where beggars, beggars. There -we found horses just come in.</p> - -<p class='c006'>After debate (wherein I was for Aix-la-Chapelle, -L[ord] B[yron] for stopping) we set off; and such -a jolting, rolling, knocking, and half-a-dozen etc., as -our carriage went through, I never saw, which put -L[ord] B[yron] to accusing me of bad advice; clearing -however as the road mended. The rain fell into -a pond, to be illuminated by sunshine before we -reached Aix-la-Chapelle at half-past twelve.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 8.</i>—Got up late. Went to see the Cathedral: -full of people, lower ranks, hearing mass. Miserable -painting, architecture, etc. Saw also a church wherein -was no particular picture or anything. At Liège the -revolutionists had destroyed the fine Cathedral.</p> - -<p class='c006'>A German boy who led me about Aix-la-Chapelle, -on my asking him in broken German about the -baths, led me to a very different place. I was -astonished to find myself in certain company. The -baths are hot sulphuretted-hydrogen-impregnated -water. The sulphur-beds are only shown to dukes -<a id='Page_75'></a>and kings: so a kingdom is good for something. -I saw the baths themselves: like others, not very -clean-looking.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We left Aix-la-Chapelle at twelve, going through -a fine country, with no hedges but fine woods in the -distance. We arrived at St. Juliers, strongly fortified, -where they took our names at entering and at -exiting. It is a neat town, and was besieged last -year. We were at the post taken by a man for -Frenchmen, and he told us we had been driven from -Russia by a band of the Emperor. He seemed to -be very fond of them, and gave as a reason that he -had been employed by them for many years. And, -I forgetfully saying, "What! were they here?"—"Yes, -and farther." I answered, "Jusqu'à Moscou." -"Oui, et presque plus loin." That "presque" means -much. The French were not generally liked, I believe. -The lower orders perhaps liked them, but the -middle, I doubt. But I cannot say; I may perhaps -be influenced by the opinion of a beautiful face of -this town, who, on my asking her whether the <i>dames -n'aimaient pas beaucoup les Français</i>, answered, "<i>Oui, -les dames publiques</i>."</p> - -<p class='c006'>We find it a great inconvenience that the Poste is -a separate concern, and generally pretty distant from -the inn. The women are many of them very beautiful, -and many of them, as well as the men, have fine -<a id='Page_76'></a>dark eyes and hair. The men wear ear-rings, and -curl their hair; which, if I remember rightly, was the -custom in the time of Tacitus. Many of the women -wear their hair combed quite back, and upon it a -little square piece of linen. The French were particularly -polite during the siege.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We entered the dominions of the King of Prussia -a little beyond Battice. It causes a strange sensation -to an Englishman to pass into one state from another -without crossing any visible line. Indeed, we should -not have perceived that we had, if we had not been -stopped by a Belgian guard who asked us if we had -anything to declare. The difference is, however, very -striking. The men, the women, everything, improve—except -the cottages. The people look cleaner, -though everything else is dirty; contrary to the -Belgians, they seem to collect their cleanliness upon -themselves, instead of throwing it upon their cots, -tins, trees, and shrubs.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We arrived at Cologne after much bad, sandy, -heavy road, at 11. The pavement begins to be -interrupted after Aix, but ends almost entirely after -St. Juliers. Cologne is upon a flat on the Rhine. -We were groaning at having no sight of far-famed -Cologne, when we came suddenly under its battlements -and towers. We passed through its fortifications -without question. After having found the gates -<a id='Page_77'></a>shut, and feed the porter, we found inns full, and -at last got into the Hôtel de Prague.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 9.</i>—Got up very bad.<a id='r2' /><a href='#f2' class='c014'><sup>[2]</sup></a> Sat down to breakfast. -Just done, we heard some singing. Enquiry told us, -buyable. Got them up. A harp played by a dark-haired -German, pretty, and two fiddlers. She played -and sang <i>The Troubadour</i>, which brought back a -chain of Scotch recollections, and a German song; -then a beautiful march, in which the music died away -and then suddenly revived. After a waltz we dismissed -them. We both mounted a voiture, and drove -through the town to the Cathedral. Great part -pulled down by the revolutionists, and the roof of -the nave obliged to be restored with plain board—a -staring monument over Gallic ruin. There is fine -stained glass, and the effect of its being very high -and variegated in the choir is beautiful. We saw -a fine painting here by Kalf: vide <i>Taschbuch</i>. The -tomb of the three kings said to be worth three -millions of francs, and an immensely rich treasury -wherein was a sacrament worth one million of francs. -In falling down a step I broke a glass, for which they -at first would not take anything—which at last cost -me three francs. Kept countenance amazingly well.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_78'></a>Went to see St. Ursula's Church, where we were -shown virgins' skulls of ninety years old, male and -female, all jumbled into a mass of 11,000 virgins' -bones arranged all in order—some gilt, etc. A whole -room bedecked with them. All round, indeed, whatever -we saw were relics, skulls; some in the heads of -silver-faced busts, some arranged in little cells with -velvet cases, wherein was worked the name of each. -Paintings of St. Ursula, etc. Asked for a piece out -of the masses: only got a smile, and a point of a -finger to an interdiction in Latin, which I did not -read.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We went to see a picture of Rubens, <i>The Nailing -of St. Peter to a Cross</i>; the best design, though not -very good, I yet have seen of his. A German artist -copying it spoke English to us.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Returned home. Sent my name to Professor Wallraf: -got admission. Found a venerable old man who -has spent his life in making a collection of paintings -and other objects of vertù belonging to his country, -Cologne, which he intends leaving to his native -town.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This is no doubt the Wallraf who was joint founder -of the celebrated Wallraf-Richartz Museum in Cologne. -The statement which ensues as to an early oil-painter -named Kaft is noticeable; whether correct I am unable -to say. The Wallraf-Richartz Museum does not -contain any painting by Tintoretto to which the name -<a id='Page_79'></a><i>Campavella</i> could apply: there is a fine picture by -him of <i>Ovid and Corinna</i>.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Many pictures were extremely good, especially -painting of individuals. Kaft was a native of this -town, who painted in oil before oil-painting was -known. Saw some Poussins, Claude Lorraines. Some -moderate. A Tintoretto of <i>Campavella</i> beautiful: -colouring and drawing strong and expressive. A -Rembrandt and a Teniers, etc. A master of Rubens. -A copy in colours from the drawing of Raphael by -one of his disciples. Cologne has stamped more -coins than some empires, and has coined twenty-six -kinds of gold. He had made drawings of them, but -the revolution stopped it. The revolutionary Gauls, -he said with a tear in his eye, had destroyed many -very valuable relics of Cologne; and, pointing to a -leaf of a missal with another tear, he said: "Many -like this once adorned our churches: this is all." He -had the original manuscript of Albert le Grand, -<i>History of Animals</i>; Titian's four designs of the -Cæsars at Polenham, with his own handwriting; the -Albert Durer's sketch of Christ's head which belonged -to Charles II; and a painting of Albert Durer's -Master.<a id='r3' /><a href='#f3' class='c014'><sup>[3]</sup></a> He wishes for a copy of any of Caxton's -printing in England.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_80'></a>Went to buy some books. Found Miss Helmhoft, -a fine woman. Had a long confab. Bought more -books than I wanted. Heard her spout German -poetry that I did not understand; and laughed at -the oddity of her gesticulation, which she took for -laughter at the wit of a poet who was describing -the want of a shirt—and was highly pleased.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The French destroyed convents, and made of them -public places for walking.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Have been taken for servants, Frenchmen, merchants—never -hardly for English. Saw the Rhine -last night—fine mass of water, wide as the Thames -some way below Blackwall; but no tide, and very -deep. Town dirty, very decayed, badly paved, worse -lighted, and few marks of splendour and comfort.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 10.</i>—We have seen crucifixes for these four -days at every turn, some made of wood, some of -stone, etc. Set off, after having defeated the imposition -of a postman, to Bonn; the scenery not anything -particular till we see the Seven Hills, a large -amphitheatre on the right, glimpses on the left of the -Rhine, and the Seven Hills. Bonn at last appeared, -with its steeples, and on the neighbouring hills castles -and cots, towers, and (not) towns.<a id='r4' /><a href='#f4' class='c014'><sup>[4]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_81'></a>I saw yesterday a picture of Rembrandt's with -three lights in it very well managed, at Wallraf's.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Saw R. Simmons' writing in the police-book at -Bonn, and wrote to Soane.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This was John, the son of Sir John Soane, founder -of the Soane Museum in Lincoln's Inn Fields.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The innkeeper makes you put your name—whence—whither—profession -and age—every night. Rogues -all of them, charging much.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 11.</i>—We saw the first vines a little before -entering Cologne some days ago. We left Bonn at -eleven, the town having nothing in particular. The -Seven Hills were the first that struck our sight on -one of the highest pinnacles in Drachenfels, now a -mere ruin, formerly a castle of which many a tale is -told. There was by the roadside a monument raised -upon the spot where one noble brother killed another. -Crucifixes all the way. We had the river on one -side, whence rose hills (not mountains) cultivated -halfway for vines—and the rest, nuts, shrubs, oak, etc. -Towers on pinnacles, in ruin; villages (with each its -spire) built of mud.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Cultivation in a high degree; no hedges, ground -minutely divided into beds rather than fields; women -working in the fields; ox and horse ploughing; oxen -draw by their heads alone. Peasantry happy-looking -and content. Two points particularly struck us—the -<a id='Page_82'></a>Drachenfels, and the view at a distance before -coming to Videnhar when the distant hills were -black with the rain. But the whole way it is one of -the finest scenes, I imagine, in the world. The large -river with its massy swells and varied towered banks.</p> - -<p class='c006'>We changed horses at Bemagne, and passed over a -road first cut by Aurelius, Theodoric, and Buonaparte. -B[uonaparte]'s name is everywhere. Who did this? -N[apoleon] B[uonaparte].—Who that?—He. There -is an inscription to record this. Andernach—a fine -entrance from Bemagne, with its massy towers and -square-spired church. From Andernach we passed -on. Saw on the other side Neuwied, a town owing -its existence to the mere toleration of religion. It -is the finest and [most] flourishing we have seen since -Ghent and Antwerp. We saw the tomb of Hoche at -a distance; went to it. There was inscribed "The -army of the Sambre and the Moselle to its general-in-chief -Hoche." The reliefs are torn off, the marble -slabs broken, and it is falling. But—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in18'>"Glory of the fallen brave</div> - <div class='line'>Shall men remember though forgot their grave,"</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>and the enemies may launch malicious darts against -it. After Andernach the Rhine loses much. The -valley is wider, and the beautiful, after the almost -sublime, palls, and man is fastidious.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The celebrated lyric by Byron introduced into -<a id='Page_83'></a><i>Childe Harold</i>, an address to his half-sister, is stated -farther on to have been written on this very day. I -cite the first stanza—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>"The castled crag of Drachenfels</div> - <div class='line'>Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,</div> - <div class='line'>Whose breast of waters broadly swells</div> - <div class='line'>Between the banks which bear the vine;</div> - <div class='line'>And hills all rich with blossom'd trees,</div> - <div class='line'>And fields which promise corn and wine,</div> - <div class='line'>And scatter'd cities crowning these,</div> - <div class='line'>Whose far white walls along them shine,</div> - <div class='line'>Have strew'd a scene which I should see</div> - <div class='line'>With double joy wert thou with me."]</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>About a mile from Coblentz we saw Marceau's tomb—too -dark. Crossed the bridge over the Moselle, -entered Coblentz; asked of military, no pass; went to -inns, rascals. Went to the Trois Suisses—well served; -fine view of Ehrenbreitstein fortress in sight. When -French besieged it, Marceau was here at this inn, -and the cannon-ball pierced it several times.—There -were 84 French officers here, when they would not -believe the Cossacks would pass; they had to fly as -quick as horses could convey them, for the C[ossacks], -getting into boats, made their horses swim across. -C[ossack]s rascals—ate and drank and never paid. -The general of them mean into the bargain; for he -sent the waiter in search of a louis he had never -dropped, and went off.—A flying bridge in face -of me.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_84'></a>[Marceau died in 1796 of a wound received near -Altenkirchen, at the age of only twenty-seven. High -honours were paid to his remains both by his own -army and by the Austrians whom he had been combating. -Polidori passes rapidly from the affair of -Marceau to that of eighty-four French officers and -a body of Cossacks: but it is clear that these two -matters have no real connexion: the latter must -relate to 1815 or 1814. Byron devotes to Marceau -two stanzas of <i>Childe Harold</i>—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground,</div> - <div class='line in2'>There is a small and simple pyramid</div> - <div class='line in2'>Crowning the summit of the verdant mound.</div> - <div class='line in2'>Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Our enemy's: but let not that forbid</div> - <div class='line in2'>Honour to Marceau; o'er whose early tomb</div> - <div class='line in2'>Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Lamenting and yet envying such a doom,</div> - <div class='line'>Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"Brief, brave, and glorious, was his young career," etc.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>General Hoche, although a separate monument to him -was observed by Byron and Polidori, was in fact -buried in the same tomb with Marceau. He died at -Wetzlar in 1797, aged twenty-nine. It may be -noticed that Byron (line 4) writes "heroes'," plural, -followed by "enemy's," singular. "Heroes'" must be -intended for both Marceau and Hoche, and I suspect -that "enemy's" is a misprint for "enemies'."]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_85'></a><i>May 12.</i>—Got up. Looked at the fine view, and -went to the bath, which was at a maltster's—30 -sous. Thence entered a Catholic church—organ—children -singing, which had a fine effect. A copy of -Rubens—lineal. Breakfasted.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Mounted a calèche, and went to Marceau's monument. -The tomb of heroes made into a certain place -very much expressed the flickering flame of fame. -Thence to the Chartreuse: deserted, ruined, windowless, -roofless, and tenantless—with another in sight in -the same state. Plenty of reliefs on the roadside -belonging to the Road to Calvary, an oratory on -the hillside, where were many peasants bowing in -reverence. Thence to the flying bridge managed -by boats fastened in the stream with a rope, and -by the rudder.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Saw a motley group of peasants with their head-dresses -of gold and crimson or green with the steel -pin. Cocked hat, blue coat and stockinged heroes -with a fork. Officers, artillery-men, etc.; crosses given -apparently with as profuse a hand to the soldiers as -to the roadside.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to Ehrenbreitstein. Everything broken by -gunpowder; immense masses of solid stone and -mortar thrown fifty yards from their original situation; -ruined walls, gateways, and halls—nothing perfect. -Splendid views thence—Coblentz, Rhine, Moselle -<a id='Page_86'></a>with its bridge, mountains, cultivation, vines, wilderness, -everything below my feet. Mounted again. -Passed the Rhine in a boat (rowed), looking very -like the Otaheitan canoes. Into the carriage—set -off. Scenes increasing in sublimity. The road raised -from the side of the river without parapet: two -precipices coming to the road headlong. Indeed the -river reaches foot to foot—splendid, splendid, splendid. -Saw the fort belonging once to Muhrfrey, where he -raised customs, and resisted in consequence sixty -cities. Arrived at St. Goar. At the first post saw -the people in church; went to hear them sing—fine.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 13.</i>—Left St. Goar. Found scenery sublime -to Bingen. Men with cocked hats and great buckles -hacking at the vines. The scenery after Bingen -gains in beauty what it loses in sublimity. Immense -plain to the mounts, with the Rhine <i>in medio</i>, -covered with trees, woods, and forests. Fine road to -Mayence made by Nap[oleon]; his name has been -erased from the inscription on the column commemorative -of the work. Insolence of power!</p> - -<p class='c006'>Mayence a fine town, with a cathedral raised above -it of red sandstone. Bavarians, Austrians, and Prussians, -all in the town—belonging to all. The best -town we have seen since Ghent.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Mayence was at this date, locally, in the Grand -<a id='Page_87'></a>Duchy of Hesse: but as a fortress it appertained to -the German Confederation, and was garrisoned by -Austrians, Prussians, and Hessians (hardly perhaps -Bavarians)].</p> - -<p class='c006'>One of our postillions blew a horn. Saw yesterday -a beautiful appearance—two rainbows, one on the -top of trees where the colours of the foliage pierced -the rainbow-hues.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Arrived at Mayence at 6-1/2. Saw along the Rhine -many fine old castles. This below is what L[ord] -B[yron] wrote to Mrs. L[eigh] some days ago: -written May 11 on Rhine-banks. See <i>Childe -Harold</i>, from "The Castled Crag of Drachenfels" to -"Still sweeten more these Banks of Rhine."<a id='r5' /><a href='#f5' class='c014'><sup>[5]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 14.</i>—From Mayence, where I saw the spot -where they said lately stood the house where printing -was invented; it had been pulled down by the French. -The gallery I could not see, because the keeper had -taken it into his head to make a promenade. Saw -the cathedral, pierced at the roof by bombs in the -last siege the town underwent. The reliefs—some -of which were in a good style—many decapitated. -There was a German marshal who was represented -as gravely putting forth his powdered head from -under a tombstone he has just lifted up—with an -inscription saying "I am here."</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_88'></a>From Mayence we went to Mannheim through a -fine country. Crossed the Rhine on a bridge of -boats. Taken very ill with a fever at Mannheim—could -not write my Journal.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 15.</i>—Being a little recovered, set off. Fine -alleys of Lombardy-poplars and horse-chestnuts—neat -villages. Entered Carlsruhe through a grove of -Scotch firs and other trees that had a fine effect. -Saw the Palace.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Entered the inn, and was very ill. Took ipecac -and op. gr. 15. Headache, vertigo, tendency to fainting, -etc. Magnesia and lemon acid—a little better, -no effect.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went a drive about the town. Saw the neatest -town we have yet met with: the only objection is the -houses stuccoed white—bad for the eyes. Saw the -outside of the Palace, and went into the garden laid -out in the English manner.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went home: dreadful headaches: ate some stewed -apples; took some more magn[esia] and acid; had no -effect; lay down; got up after two hours. Was just -going out when L[ord] B[yron] came to take from -my hand a plated candlestick, to give me a brass one. -Got on a few steps; fainted. My fall brought the -servants to me. Took 4 pills; going out again, when -<a id='Page_89'></a>L[ord] B[yron] made the servant put down the -plated candlestick, to take up a brass one; went -to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This, as Polidori evidently thought, was an odd -incident, not easily accounted for. One cannot -suppose that Byron simply aimed at humiliating or -mortifying his physician. There must have been -a candle in each candlestick; and it is conceivable -that the candle in the brass one was the longer, and -therefore the more suitable for an invalid who might -have needed it throughout the night.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Medicine had violent effect: better on the whole, -though weak.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Just as we were going out I met Sir C. Hunter at -my chamber-door, who told me he had heard so bad -an account of my positively dying that he came to -enquire how I found myself. I asked him in. He -took care to tell us he was a great friend of the -Grand Duke, who had sent his groom of the stole -(he called it stool) in search of lodgings for the -worthy Mayor;<a id='r6' /><a href='#f6' class='c014'><sup>[6]</sup></a> gave us a long sermon about -rheumatism, routes, etc.; left us. In the evening -he sent in the <i>Guide du Voyageur en les pays de -l'Europe</i>, begging in return some of L[ord] B[yron's] -poems.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_90'></a>Went out. Saw a church. Columns like firs—Corinthian, -golden capitals: loaded everywhere with -gilt, perhaps tawdry, but fine-tawdry. The environs -are beautiful. Drove a great deal about: fine trees -and fine cultivation.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 18.</i>—From Carlsruhe to Offenberg; much -better. Slept halfway: blinds down the other, so -nothing to mention except fine trees, fine cocked -hats, fine women, and yellow-coated postillions.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 19.</i>—Set off from Offenberg; saw some scenes -that pleased me much; hills and clouds upon them; -woods with mists. Passed through Freiburg, where we -saw the steeple pervious to the top with trellis-work -showing the light, which had to my eyes a beautiful -appearance.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I think Charles, when he said, "The German for his -horse," remembered the G[erman] postillions; for they -talk to theirs, and the horses on their part listen and -seem to understand. The greater part of to-day I -have found the ladies in a strange costume of short -wide red petticoats with many folds, and a hat of -straw as wide as a wheel. Arrived at Krolzingen to -sleep. Left Krolzingen: got to a hill. Fine view -thence: the Alps, the Rhine, the Jura mountains, -and a fine plain before us—fine country. Crossed -the Rhine, and were in Switzerland. The town upon -unequal ground—some parts very high, and some -<a id='Page_91'></a>low; the greater part very narrow streets. After tea -went to take a walk: went upon the Rhine bridge—upon -a hill in the town [Bâle presumably].</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 21.</i>—Went to see a panorama of Thun, the -first Swiss one: crowded foolishly with people, and -too small. Saw a gallery that the artist had formed. -A fine Raphael, not his; a good Rembrandt, the first -I saw historical; a <i>Circumcision</i>; a head of the -caricaturist David; two heads of Divinity; a <i>Christ -and Virgin</i>—mere pieces of flesh and drapery. -Went to a marchand d'estampes. Saw there <i>Nelson's -Death</i>, Chatham's ditto, and other pictures of England. -<i>The Dance of Death</i> has been destroyed: but it was -not Holbein's, but his restorer's. The collection is -dispersed, that once was here, of his paintings.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Agreed with a voiturier to take our carriages to -Geneva in five days. Set off. Country increases -from hills to mountains with great beauty. Passed -through Lipstadt and came to ——. Went before -supper to climb a hill where we found a goatherd -who could not understand the French that asked for -milk till it had the commentary, "We will pay for it." -The scene was very fine: to the right, beautiful; to -the left, it had a tendency to sublimity; on one side, -hills covered to the top with trees; on the other, -mountains with bald pates. Came down. Found -the servants playing at bowls. They were obliged to -<a id='Page_92'></a>run the bowls along a narrow board to the men. -Supper: read <i>Arabian Nights</i>; went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 22.</i>—Left —— at 9; passed the Jura mountains, -where we saw some fine castellated scenery, -and women ornamented strangely—amazingly short -petticoats, not below the knee, with black crape -rays round their heads that make them look -very spidery. Soleure is a neat town with stone -fortifications, and a clean church with fountains -before it. The houses in this neighbourhood have -a pleasing strange appearance on account of the -roofs, which slant out on every side a great way. -Immense number of Scotch firs—roads fine. Voituriers -slow, and have eight francs of drink-money a -day, being two; which being too much according -to the <i>Guide du Voyageur en Europe</i>, where it is -said 1-1/2 fr., we showed it to our courier, who was -in a passion. Came to ——, where we slept.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 23.</i>—Left ——: got a sight of some fine -Alpine snow-capped mountains. Came to Berne; -delightfully situated; beautiful streets with arcades -all their length. Dined there. Saw a splendidly -beautiful view coming down a hill, with hills covered -with fir, ash, beech, and all the catalogue of trees; -Morat at the bottom, and the Jura mounts behind, -with snowy hair and cloudy night-caps. Arrived -at Morat; neat with arcades. Stopped at the Crown -<a id='Page_93'></a>inn. All the way had debates whether clouds were -mountains, or mountains clouds.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 24.</i>—The innkeeper at Morat, being a little -tipsy, and thinking every Englishman (being a -philosophe) must be a philosophe like himself, -favoured us with some of his infidel notions while -serving us at supper. Near Morat was fought the -battle wherein the Burgundians were so completely -thrashed. Their bones, of which we took pieces, -are now very few; once they formed a mighty -heap in the chapel, but both were destroyed by -the Burgundian division when in Switzerland, and -a tree of liberty was planted over it, which yet -flourishes in all its verdure—the liberty has flown -from the planters' grasp. Saw Aventicum; there -remains sufficient of the walls to trace the boundaries -of the ancient town; but of all the buildings, both -for Gods and men, nothing but a column remains, -and that the only remnant for more than a hundred -years. There are mosaic pavements, and even the -streets may be perceived in a dry summer by the -grass being thinner. The mosaic in a barn, probably -once of a temple, was pretty perfect till the Gallic -cavalry came and turned it into a stable. It is -formed of little pieces of black, white, and red bricks; -little now remains. There was also a copper vessel -in the middle; that too has disappeared. The town -<a id='Page_94'></a>is shamefully negligent of the antiquities of their -fathers, for there is another more beautiful and perfect -mosaic pavement discovered, but which they have -allowed the proprietor to cover again with mould -rather than buy it. We found in a barn heads, -plinths, capitals, and shafts, heaped promiscuously. -The Corinthian-column capital is deeply, sharply, and -beautifully cut. A head of Apollo in all the rudeness -of first art—a capital of a strange mixed order. -There is the Amphitheatre, hollow yet pretty perfect, -but no stonework visible; overgrown with trees; -the size, my companion told me, was larger than -common. In the town there were some beautiful -fragments of ornament-sculpture incorporated in the -walls; all marble. In the walls of the church we -sought in vain for the inscription that Mathison -mentions to Julia Alpinula.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Both to Morat and to Aventicum (Avenches) -Byron devotes some stanzas in <i>Childe Harold</i>, 63 to -67, and notes to correspond. Morat he terms "the -proud, the patriot field." He speaks of the hoard -of bones, and says: "I ventured to bring away as -much as may have made a quarter of a hero," for -"careful preservation." His reference to Aventicum -and the inscription to Julia Alpinula reads rather -curiously in the light of Polidori's avowal that -"we sought in vain for the inscription." Byron's -<a id='Page_95'></a>readers must always, I apprehend, have inferred the -contrary.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"By a lone wall a lonelier column rears</div> - <div class='line in2'>A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days.</div> - <div class='line in2'>'Tis the last remnant of the wreck of years,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And looks as with the wild bewildered gaze</div> - <div class='line in2'>Of one to stone converted by amaze,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Yet still with consciousness: and there it stands,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Making a marvel that it not decays,</div> - <div class='line in2'>When the coeval pride of human hands,</div> - <div class='line'>Levell'd Aventicum, hath strew'd her subject lands.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in2'>"And there—oh sweet and sacred be the name!—</div> - <div class='line in2'>Julia, the daughter, the devoted, gave</div> - <div class='line in2'>Her youth to Heaven: her heart, beneath a claim</div> - <div class='line in2'>Nearest to Heaven's, broke o'er a father's grave.</div> - <div class='line in2'>Justice is sworn 'gainst tears; and hers would crave</div> - <div class='line in2'>The life she lived in; but the judge was just,—</div> - <div class='line in2'>And then she died on him she could not save.</div> - <div class='line in2'>Their tomb was simple, and without a bust,</div> - <div class='line'>And held within their urn one mind, one heart, one dust."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>Byron's note runs thus: "Julia Alpinula, a young -Aventian priestess, died soon after a vain endeavour -to save her father, condemned to death as a traitor by -Aulus Cæcina. Her epitaph was discovered many -years ago. It is thus: 'Julia Alpinula hic jaceo. -Infelicis patris infelix proles. Deæ Aventiæ Sacerdos. -Exorare patris necem non potui: Male mori in fatis -illi erat. Vixi annos XXIII.' I know of no human -composition so affecting as this, nor a history of -greater interest. These are the names and actions," -etc.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_96'></a>I copied the one below on account of its medical -tendency. The letters in this as well as in all the -other inscriptions are formed like our Roman print, -not in the least imperfect: "Nvminib. Avg. et Genio -Col. I. El. Apollini Sagr. 9. Postum Hermes lib. -Medicis et Professorib, D.S.D."</p> - -<p class='c006'>From Aventicum or Avenches we went to Payerne. -We have seen in many places boys leading goats just -in the antique style. Thence we went to Moudon—dirty -town. Stopped for refreshments. One fine -view we have had all the way, but nothing equal to -the view descending to Morat.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Darkness came on. We saw the Castle wherein -—— defended himself against the French who -besieged it for a month: looks so weak, it seems a -wonder. The Swiss castles are not nearly so interesting -as the Rhine ones. They are very conical-roofed -and no battlements. We saw the lake, but -for a long time doubted whether it was a cloud -below, a mist before, or water beneath us. Entered -Lausanne.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 25.</i>—Left Lausanne, after having looked at a -bookseller's, who showed me a fine collection of -bad books for four louis. Enquired for Dewar: -name not known. We went along the lake, that a -little disappointed me, as it does not seem so broad -as it really is, and the mountains near it, though -<a id='Page_97'></a>covered with snow, have not a great appearance on -account of the height [of the] lake itself. We saw -Mont Blanc in the distance; ethereal in appearance, -mingling with the clouds; it is more than 60 miles -from where we saw it. It is a classic ground we go -over. Buonaparte, Joseph, Bonnet, Necker, Staël, -Voltaire, Rousseau, all have their villas (except -Rousseau). Genthoud, Ferney, Coppet, are close -to the road.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Perhaps some readers may need to be reminded -who Bonnet was. He was a great physicist, both -practical and speculative, Charles Bonnet, author of a -<i>Traité d'Insectologie</i>, a <i>Traité de l'usage des Feuilles</i>, -<i>Contemplations de la Nature</i>, <i>Palingénésie Philosophique</i>, -and other works. Born in Geneva in 1720, he died -in 1793.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>We arrived at Sécheron—where Lord Byron, -having put his age down as 100, received a letter -half-an-hour after from Inn Keeper?—a thing -that seems worthy of a novel. It begins again to -be the land of the vine. Women, who till the Pays -de Vaud were ugly, improving greatly.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 26.</i>—After breakfast, and having made up the -accounts to to-day, and having heard that the voituriers -made a claim of drink-money all the way -back, we ordered a calèche; but, happening to go -into the garden, we saw a boat, into which entering, -<a id='Page_98'></a>we pushed out upon the Leman Lake. After rowing -some time, happening to come to the ferry, we found -the waiter with a direful look to tell us that it was -<i>pris pour un monsieur Anglais</i>, who happened to be -——.<a id='r7' /><a href='#f7' class='c014'><sup>[7]</sup></a> We got another, and went out to bathe. -I <i>rode</i> first with L[ord] B[yron] upon the field of -Waterloo; <i>walked</i> first to see Churchill's tomb; -<i>bathed and rowed</i> first on the Leman Lake.—It did -us much good. Dined; entered the calèche; drove -through Geneva, where I saw an effect of building that -pleased me: it was porticoes from the very roof of -the high houses to the bottom.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to the house beyond Cologny that belonged -to Diodati. They ask five-and-twenty louis for it a -month. Narrow, not true. The view from his house -is very fine; beautiful lake; at the bottom of the -crescent is Geneva. Returned. Pictet called, but -L[ord] B[yron] said "not at home."</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_99'></a>[There were two Genevan Pictets at this date, both -public men of some mark. One was Jean Marc Jules -Pictet de Sergy, 1768 to 1828; the other, the Chevalier -Marc Auguste Pictet, 1752 to 1825. As Polidori -speaks farther on of Pictet as being aged about forty-six, -the former would appear to be meant. He had -been in Napoleon's legislative chamber from 1800 to -1815, and was afterwards a member of the representative -council of Geneva.—The Villa Diodati was the -house where Milton, in 1639, had visited Dr. John -Diodati, a Genevese Professor of Theology. Polidori's -compact phrase, "narrow, not true," is by no means -clear; perhaps he means that some one had warned -him that the Villa Diodati (called also the Villa Belle -Rive) was inconveniently narrow, but, on inspecting -the premises, he found the statement incorrect.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 27.</i>—Got up; went about a boat; got one for -3 fr. a day; rowed to Sécheron. Breakfasted. Got -into a carriage. Went to Banker's, who changed our -money, and afterwards left his card. To Pictet—not -at home. Home, and looked at accounts: bad temper -on my side. Went into the boat, rowed across to Diodati; -cannot have it for three years; English family. -Crossed again; I went; L[ord] B[yron] back. Getting -out, L[ord] B[yron] met M[ary] Wollstonecraft -Godwin, her sister, and Percy Shelley. I got into the -boat into the middle of Leman Lake, and there lay -my length, letting the boat go its way.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Here I find it difficult to understand the phrase—"Cannot -have it (Villa Diodati) for three years—English -family." It must apparently mean either that -an English family were occupying or had bespoken -Villa Diodati, and would remain there for three years -<a id='Page_100'></a>to come (which is in conflict with the fact that Byron -soon afterwards became the tenant); or else that -Byron thought of renting it for a term as long as three -years, which was barred by the previous claim of some -English family. On the whole, the latter supposition -seems to me the more feasible; but one is surprised -to think that Byron had any—even remote—idea of -remaining near Geneva for any such great length of -time. This sets one's mind speculating about Miss -Clairmont, with whom (as is well known) Byron's -amour had begun before he left London, and who had -now just arrived to join him at Sécheron; had he at -this time any notion of settling down with her in the -neighbourhood for three years, more or less? It is a -curious point to consider for us who know how rapidly -he discarded her, and how harshly he treated her ever -afterwards. Miss Clairmont, we see, was now already -on the spot, along with Percy and Mary Shelley; in -fact, as we learn from other sources, they had arrived -at Sécheron, Dejean's Hôtel de l'Angleterre, as far -back as May 18, or perhaps May 15—and Byron now -for the first time encountered the three. It appears -that he must have met Mary Godwin in London, -probably only once—not to speak of Clare. Shelley, -to the best of our information, he had never till now -seen at all. Polidori here terms Clare Clairmont the -"sister" of "M. Wollstonecraft Godwin"; and in -<a id='Page_101'></a>the entry for May 29 he even applies the name -Wollstonecraft Godwin to Clare; and it will be found -as we proceed that for some little while he really -supposed the two ladies to be sisters in the right sense -of the term, both of them bearing the surname of -Godwin. In point of fact, there was no blood-relationship—Mary -being the daughter of Mr. and the first -Mrs. Godwin, and Clare the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. -Clairmont. It may be as well to add that the letters -addressed by Miss Clairmont to Byron, before they -actually met in London, have now (1904) been -published in <i>The Works of Lord Byron, Letters and -Journals</i>, vol. iii, pp. 429-437; and they certainly -exhibit a degree of forwardness and importunity which -accounts in some measure for his eventual antipathy to -her.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Found letter from De Roche inviting me to breakfast -to-morrow; curious with regard to L[ord] B[yron]. -Dined; P[ercy] S[helley], the author of <i>Queen Mab</i>, -came; bashful, shy, consumptive; twenty-six; separated -from his wife; keeps the two daughters of Godwin, -who practise his theories; one L[ord] B[yron]'s.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This is a very noticeable jotting. Shelley appears -to have come in alone on this occasion, and we may -infer that some very confidential talk ensued between -him and Byron, in the presence of Polidori. He was -not at this date really twenty-six years of age, but -<a id='Page_102'></a>only twenty-three. "Bashful, shy," is an amusingly -simple description of him. As to "consumptive," we -know that Shelley left England under the impression -that consumption had him in its grip, but this hardly -appears to have been truly the case. Polidori, as a -medical man, might have been expected to express -some doubt on the subject, unless the poet's outward -appearance looked consumptive. Next we hear that -Shelley "keeps the two daughters of Godwin, who -practise his theories"—<i>i.e.</i> set the marriage-laws at -defiance, or act upon the principle of free love. One -might suppose, from this phrase, that Polidori believed -Shelley to be the accepted lover of Miss Clairmont as -well as of Mary Godwin; but the addition of those -very significant words—"One, Lord Byron's"—tells -in the opposite direction. These words can only -mean (what was the fact) that one of these ladies, viz. -Miss Clairmont, was Lord Byron's mistress. Therefore -Polidori, in saying that Shelley "kept the two -daughters of Godwin," may presumably have meant -that he housed and maintained Clare, while he was -the <i>quasi</i>-husband of Mary. Whether Polidori now -for the first time learned, from the conversation of -Byron and Shelley, what was the relation subsisting -between Clare and Byron, or whether Byron had at -some earlier date imparted the facts to him, is a -question which must remain unsolved. The latter -<a id='Page_103'></a>appears to me extremely probable; for Byron had -certainly arranged to meet Clare near Geneva, and he -may very likely have given the requisite notice beforehand -to his travelling physician and daily associate. -My aunt Charlotte Polidori was not an adept in -Shelleian detail: if she had been, I fear that these -sentences would have shocked her sense of propriety, -and they would have been left uncopied. They form -the only passage in her transcript which bears in any -way upon the amour between Lord Byron and Miss -Clairmont; to the best of my recollection and belief -there was not in the original Diary any other passage -pointing in the same direction.—I may observe here -that there is nothing in Polidori's Journal to show -that the Shelley party were staying in the same -Sécheron hotel with Lord Byron. Professor Dowden -says that they were—I suppose with some sufficient -authority; and I think other biographers in general -have assumed the same.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Into the calèche; horloger's at Geneva; L[ord] -B[yron] paid 15 nap. towards a watch; I, 13: -repeater and minute-hand; foolish watch.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This means (as one of Polidori's letters shows) -that Byron made him a present of £15 towards -the price of the watch.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to see the house of Madame Necker, 100 -a half-year; came home, etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_104'></a><i>May 28.</i>—Went to Geneva, to breakfast with -Dr. De Roche; acute, sensible, a listener to himself; -good clear head. Told me that armies on their -march induce a fever (by their accumulation of -animal dirt, irregular regimen) of the most malignant -typhoid kind; it is epidemic. There was a -whole feverish line from Moscow to Metz, and it -spread at Geneva the only almost epidemic typhus -for many years. He is occupied in the erection of -Lancaster schools, which he says succeed well. He -is a Louis Bourbonist. He told me my fever was -not an uncommon one among travellers. He came -home with me, and we had a chat with L[ord] -B[yron]; chiefly politics, where of course we differed. -He had a system well worked out, but I hope only -hypothetical, about liberty of the French being -Machiavellianly not desirable by Europe. He pointed -out Dumont in the court, the rédacteur of Bentham.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Found a letter from Necker to the hotel-master, -asking 100 nap. for three months; and another -from Pictet inviting L[ord] B[yron] and any friend -to go with him at 8 to Madame Einard, a connection -of his. We then, ascending our car, went to see -some other houses, none suiting.</p> - -<p class='c006'>When we returned home, Mr. Percy Shelley came -in to ask us to dinner; declined; engaged for tomorrow. -We walked with him, and got into his -<a id='Page_105'></a>boat, though the wind raised a little sea upon the lake. -Dined at four. Mr. Hentsch, the banker, came in; -very polite; told L[ord] B[yron] that, when he saw -him yesterday, he had not an idea that he was -speaking to one of the most famous lords of England.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Dressed and went to Pictet's: an oldish man, about -forty-six, tall, well-looking, speaks English well. His -daughter showed us a picture, by a young female -artist, of Madame Lavallière in the chapel; well -executed in pencil—good lights and a lusciously -grieving expression.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to Madame Einard. Introduced to a room -where about 8 (afterwards 20), 2 ladies (1 more). -L[ord] B[yron]'s name was alone mentioned; mine, -like a star in the halo of the moon, invisible. L[ord] -B[yron] not speaking French, M. Einard spoke bad -Italian. A Signor Rossi came in, who had joined -Murat at Bologna. Manly in thought; admired -Dante as a poet more than Ariosto, and a discussion -about manliness in a language. Told me Geneva -women amazingly chaste even in thoughts. Saw -the Lavallière artist. A bonny, rosy, seventy-yeared -man, called Bonstetten, the beloved of Gray and the -correspondent of Mathison.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[I find "40" in the MS.: apparently it ought to -be "70," for Bonstetten was born in 1745. He lived -on till 1832. Charles Victor de Bonstetten was a -<a id='Page_106'></a>Bernese nobleman who had gone through various -vicissitudes of opinion and adventure, travelling in -England and elsewhere. To Englishmen (as indicated -in Polidori's remark) he is best known as a -friend of the poet Thomas Gray, whom he met in -1769. He said: "Jamais je n'ai vu personne qui -donnât autant que Gray l'idée d'un gentleman accompli." -Among the chief writings of Bonstetten -are <i>Recherches sur la Nature et les Lois de l'Imagination</i>; -<i>Etudes d'Hommes</i>; <i>L'Homme du Midi et -l'Homme du Nord</i>.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Madame Einard made tea, and left all to take -sugar with the fingers. Madame Einard showed some -historical pieces of her doing in acquerella, really good, -a little too French-gracish. Obliged to leave before -ten for the gates shut. Came home, went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Was introduced by Shelley to Mary Wollstonecraft -Godwin, called here Mrs. Shelley. Saw picture -by Madame Einard of a cave in the Jura where in -winter there is no ice, in summer plenty. No names -announced, no ceremony—each speaks to whom he -pleases. Saw the bust of Jean Jacques erected upon -the spot where the Geneva magistrates were shot. -L[ord] B[yron] said it was probably built of some -of the stones with which they pelted him.<a id='r8' /><a href='#f8' class='c014'><sup>[8]</sup></a> The -walk is deserted. They are now mending their -roads. Formerly they could not, because the -municipal money always went to the public box.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_107'></a><i>May 29.</i>—Went with Mr. Hentsch to see some -houses along the valley in which runs the Rhone: -nothing. Dined with Mr. and Mrs. Percy Shelley -and Wollstonecraft Godwin. Hentsch told us that -the English last year exported corn to Italy to a -great amount.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 30.</i>—Got up late. Went to Mr. and Mrs. -Shelley; breakfasted with them; rowed out to see -a house together. S[helley] went from Lucerne with -the two, with merely £26, to England along the -Rhine in bateaux. Gone through much misery, -thinking he was dying; married a girl for the mere -sake of letting her have the jointure that would -accrue to her; recovered; found he could not agree; -separated; paid Godwin's debts, and seduced his -daughter; then wondered that he would not see him. -The sister left the father to go with the other. Got -a child. All clever, and no meretricious appearance. -He is very clever; the more I read his <i>Queen Mab</i>, -the more beauties I find. Published at fourteen a -novel; got £30 for it; by his second work £100. -<i>Mab</i> not published.—Went in calèche with L[ord] -B[yron] to see a house; again after dinner to leave -cards; then on lake with L[ord] B[yron]. I, Mrs. -<a id='Page_108'></a>S[helley], and Miss G[odwin], on to the lake till -nine. Drank tea, and came away at 11 after confabbing. -The batelier went to Shelley, and asked -him as a favour not to tell L[ord] B[yron] what he -gave for his boat, as he thought it quite fit that -Milord's payment be double; we sent Berger to say -we did not wish for the boat.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The statement that "Shelley went from Lucerne -with the two, with merely £26, to England, along -the Rhine in bateaux," refers of course to what had -taken place in 1814, on the occasion of Shelley's -elopement with Mary Godwin, and has no bearing -on the transactions of 1816; it must be cited by -Polidori as showing how inexpensively three persons -could, if so minded, travel from Switzerland to England. -The other references to Shelley's domestic -affairs etc. are very curious. Except as to his own -personal admiration for <i>Queen Mab</i>, Polidori is here -evidently putting down (but not in the words of -Shelley himself, who would assuredly not have said -that he had "seduced" Mary Godwin) such details -as the poet imparted to him. They are far from -accurate. To some extent, Polidori may have remembered -imperfectly what Shelley told him, but -I think the latter must have been responsible for -most of the fables; and generally it would appear -that Shelley gave free rein to his inclination for -<a id='Page_109'></a>romancing or for over-stating matters, possibly perceiving -that Polidori was credulous, and capable of -swallowing whatever he was told, the more eccentric -the better. To say that Shelley, before he, at the -age of barely 19, married Harriet Westbrook in -1811, thought that he was dying, and that his only -practical motive for marrying her was that she might -come in for a jointure after his decease, is no doubt -highly fallacious, and even absurd. We have other -sources of information as to these occurrences, especially -the letters of Shelley addressed at the time to -Jefferson Hogg, and they tell a very different tale. -As to his reason for separating from Harriet, Shelley, -we perceive, simply told Polidori that he "found he -could not agree" with her; he said nothing as to -his knowing or supposing that she had been unfaithful -to him. Again, Shelley was not so boyish as -14 when he published a novel—his first novel, the -egregious <i>Zastrozzi</i>; the publication took place in -1810, when he was eighteen, or at lowest seventeen. -The statement that he got £100 by "his second -work" is worth considering. If "his second work" -means, as one might naturally suppose in this -connexion, the romance of <i>St. Irvyne</i>, the suggestion -that he got anything at all by it, except a -state of indebtedness, is a novelty. But our mind -recurs to that rumoured and apparently really published -<a id='Page_110'></a>though wholly untraced work of his, <i>A -Poetical Essay on the Existing State of Things</i>. This -poem was published, we are told, for the benefit of -an Irish agitator or patriot, Peter Finnerty, and it -has been elsewhere averred that the publication produced -a sum of nearly £100. The mention by -Polidori of £100 may be surmised to refer to the -same matter, and it tends so far to confirm the idea -that the book really existed, and even secured a -fair measure of success.—Berger (who is named in -connexion with Byron and the hire for the boat) -was, as already noted, the Swiss servant of Byron, -brought from London.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>May 31.</i>—Breakfasted with Shelley; read Italian -with Mrs. S[helley]; dined; went into a boat with Mrs. -S[helley], and rowed all night till 9; tea'd together; -chatted, etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 1.</i>—Breakfasted with S[helley]; entered a -calèche; took Necker's house for 100 louis for 8 or -365 days. Saw several houses for Shelley; one good. -Dined; went in the boat; all tea'd together.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Necker's house, here mentioned, would apparently -be the same as the Villa Diodati, or Villa Belle Rive—for -that is the house which Byron did in fact rent. -"Necker" may be understood as meaning (rather -than the famous Minister of Finance in France) his -widow, since Necker himself had died a dozen years -<a id='Page_111'></a>before. The sum of 100 louis seems to be specified -here as the rent for a year, and the phrase about 8 -days must indicate that the house could be tenanted -for that short space of time—or let us say a week—at -a proportionate payment. This rate of rental appears -low, and it differs both from what was said under the -date of May 26, and from what we shall find noted -shortly afterwards, June 6. Thus I feel a little doubt -whether "Necker's house" is not in reality something -quite different from the Villa Diodati. Byron's -proposed tenancy of the former might possibly have -been cancelled.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Rogers the subject: L[or]d B[yron] thinks good -poet; malicious. Marquis of Lansdowne being praised -by a whole company as a happy man, having all good, -R[ogers] said, "But how horridly he carves turbot!" -Ward having reviewed his poems in the <i>Quarterly</i>, -having a bad heart and being accused of learning his -speeches, L[ord] B[yron], upon malignantly hinting -to him [Rogers] how he had been carved, heard him -say: "I stopped his speaking though by my epigram, -which is—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>"'Ward has no heart, they say, but I deny it;</div> - <div class='line'>He has a heart, and gets his speeches by it.'"</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>[This must be the Honourable John William Ward, -who was created Earl of Dudley in 1827, and died in -1833. Miss Berry, the <i>quasi</i>-adopted daughter of -<a id='Page_112'></a>Horace Walpole, told Madame de Staël in 1813 that -the latter had "undertaken two miracles—to make -Ward <i>poli envers les femmes et pieux envers Dieu</i>."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>On L[ord] B[yron's] writing a poem to his sister -wherein he says, "And when friends e'en paused and -love," etc., Rogers, going to some one, said: "I don't -know what L[ord] B[yron] means by <i>pausing</i>; I -called upon him every day." He did this regularly, -telling L[ord] B[yron] all the bad news with a malignant -grin. When L[ord] B[yron] wrote "Weep, -daughter of a royal line," Rogers came to him one -day, and, taking up the <i>Courier</i>, said: "I am sure -now you're attacked there; now don't mind them"; -and began reading, looking every now and then at -L[ord] B[yron] with an anxious searching eye, till he -came to "that little poet and disagreeable person, -Mr. Samuel—" when he tore the paper, and said: -"Now this must be that fellow Croker," and wished -L[ord] B[yron] to challenge him. He talked of going -to Cumberland with L[ord] B[yron], and, asking him -how he meant to travel, L[ord] B[yron] said "With -four horses." Rogers went to company, and said: -"It is strange to hear a man talking of four horses -who seals his letters with a tallow candle."</p> - -<p class='c006'>Shelley is another instance of wealth inducing -relations to confine for madness, and was only saved -by his physician being honest. He was betrothed -<a id='Page_113'></a>from a boy to his cousin, for age; another came who -had as much as he <i>would</i> have, and she left him -"because he was an atheist." When starving, a friend -to whom he had given £2000, though he knew it, would -not come near him. Heard Mrs. Shelley repeat -Coleridge on Pitt, which persuades me he is a poet.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Here we see that Shelley must have repeated to -Polidori that famous story of his about the attempt -of his father to consign him, when he was an Eton -student, to a madhouse, and about the zealous and -ultimately successful effort of Dr. Lind, the Eton -physicist, to save him from that disastrous fate. Next -comes the statement that Shelley was betrothed from -boyhood to his beautiful cousin Miss Harriet Grove—the -marriage to take effect when he should attain his -majority; an account which we know to be substantially -true. The conduct of Miss Grove—or perhaps -we should rather say of her parents as dictating her -action—is placed in an unfavourable light; for it is -plainly suggested that she abandoned Shelley for -another bridegroom on the ground of a more immediate -advantage in worldly position—the allegation of -Percy's atheism being more a pretext than a genuine -motive. The passage about a friend to whom Shelley -had given £2000 must (I suppose beyond a doubt) -refer to Godwin; but it is evident that Shelley, in -speaking to Polidori, a comparative stranger, and this -<a id='Page_114'></a>in the presence of Mary, had the delicacy to suppress -the name. The charge thus alleged against Godwin -is not, I conceive, accurate, although it approximated -towards accuracy. I am not clear that Shelley, up to -the time when he thus spoke in June 1816, had given -Godwin money amounting to quite so large a total as -£2000; but at any rate he cannot have done so up to -the time when he was himself "starving"—or, in -milder terms, when he was in very great and harassing -straits for money and daily subsistence. That -time was late in 1814, and in the first days of 1815. -It is true that, even before this date, he had done -something to relieve Godwin; but it was only, I think, -in April 1816 that he gave the philosopher a really -very considerable sum—£1000 in a lump. I say all -this for the sake of biographical truth, and not with a -view to vindicating Godwin—whose policy of bleeding -Shelley in purse while he cut him in person has in -some recent years been denounced with increasing -vehemence, and it was indeed wholly indefensible. -But human nature—and especially the human nature -of an abstract speculator like Godwin—is capable of -very odd self-deceptions; and I dare say Godwin -thought he was equally and strictly right in both his -proceedings—right in getting large sums of money -out of Shelley, for a reforming sage ought to be subsidized -by his neophytes—and right in repudiating -<a id='Page_115'></a>and abusing Shelley, for the latter had applied -Godwin's own anti-matrimonial theories to that one -instance of practice which the philosopher did not at -all relish.—To proceed to another point. The lines -of Coleridge on Pitt which Polidori heard recited by -Mrs. Shelley are to be sought for in his early poem -entitled <i>Fire, Famine, and Slaughter</i>. In that poem -(need I say it?) those three Infernal Deities are represented -as meeting in "a desolated tract in La Vendée"; -and on mutual enquiry they learn that one and the -same person has sent them thither all three.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"Letters four do form his name"—</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>the name Pitt. Famine and Slaughter finally agree -that the multitude, exasperated by their sufferings, -shall turn upon Pitt and rend him—</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>"They shall tear him limb from limb!"</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>Fire, who has just come from doing Pitt's errands in -Ireland, thinks this ungrateful: she concludes the -poem with the memorable words—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>"Ninety months he, by my troth,</div> - <div class='line'>Hath richly catered for you both:</div> - <div class='line'>And in an hour would you repay</div> - <div class='line'>An eight years' work?—Away, away!</div> - <div class='line'>I alone am faithful—<i>I</i></div> - <div class='line'><i>Cling to him everlastingly</i>."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The poem would be well worth quoting here in full, -but is somewhat too long for such a purpose.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_116'></a>A young girl of eighteen, handsome, died within -half-an-hour yesterday: buried to-day. Geneva is -fortified—legumes growing in the fosses.—Went -about linen and plate.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 2.</i>—Breakfasted with Shelley. Read Tasso -with Mrs. Shelley. Took child for vaccination.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The child in question must seemingly have been -the beloved infant William Shelley, born in January -of this same year. Polidori does not appear to have -vaccinated the boy with his own hand; for I find in -a letter of his written to his family towards June 20: -"Got a gold chain and a seal as a fee from an -Englishman here for having his child inoculated." -As Polidori speaks only of "an Englishman here," -not naming Shelley, it looks as if he purposely withheld -from his family the knowledge that he had come -into contact with that wicked and dangerous character. -I wish I knew what has become of the -"gold chain and seal," the gift of Shelley: but I -could not on enquiry find that anything whatever -was known about them by my then surviving -relatives. I possess a letter on the subject, November -4, 1890, from my sister Christina.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Found gates shut because of church-service. Went -in search of Rossi. Saw a village where lads and lasses, -soubrettes and soldiers, were dancing, to a tabor and -drum, waltzes, cotillions, etc. Dr. R[ossi] not at home.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_117'></a>Dined with S[helley]; went to the lake with them -and L[ord] B[yron]. Saw their house; fine. Coming -back, the sunset, the mountains on one side, a dark -mass of outline on the other, trees, houses hardly -visible, just distinguishable; a white light mist, resting -on the hills around, formed the blue into a -circular dome bespangled with stars only and lighted -by the moon which gilt the lake. The dome of -heaven seemed oval. At 10 landed and drank tea. -Madness, Grattan, Curran, etc., subjects.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The "house" of Shelley and his party which -is here mentioned is the Campagne Chapuis, or -Campagne Mont Alègre, near Cologny—distant -from the Villa Diodati only about 8 minutes' walk. -Shelley and the two ladies had entered this house -towards the end of May, prior to the actual settlement -of Lord Byron in the Villa Diodati. The -Shelleys, as we have more than once heard from -this Diary, kept up the practice of drinking tea—a -beverage always cherished by Percy Bysshe. The -topics of conversation, we observe, were madness—probably -following on from what Shelley had on -the previous day said about his own supposed -madness while at Eton; also Curran, whom Shelley -had seen a little, but without any sympathy, in -Dublin—and Grattan, who, so far as I am aware -was not personally known to the poet.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_118'></a><i>June 3.</i>—Went to Pictet's on English day.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 4.</i>—Went about Diodati's house. Then to -see Shelley, who, with Mrs. Shelley, came over. -Went in the evening to a musical society of about -ten members at M. Odier's; who read a very interesting -memoir upon the subject of whether a -physician should in any case tell a lover the health -[of the lady of his affections], or anything that, -from being her physician, comes to his knowledge. -Afterwards had tea and politics. Saw there a Dr. -Gardner, whom I carried home in the calèche. Odier -invited me for every Wednesday.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Came home. Went on the lake with Shelley and -Lord Byron, who quarrelled with me.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This might seem to be the matter to which Professor -Dowden in his <i>Life of Shelley</i> (following Moore's <i>Life -of Byron</i> and some other authorities) thus briefly -refers. "Towards Shelley the Doctor's feeling was -a constantly self-vexing jealousy [I cannot say -that the Diary of Polidori has up to this point -borne the least trace of any such soreness]; and -on one occasion, suffering from the cruel wrong of -having been a loser in a sailing-match, he went so -far as to send Shelley a challenge, which was received -with a fit of becoming laughter. 'Recollect,' said -Byron, 'that, though Shelley has some scruples about -duelling, I have none and shall be at all times ready -<a id='Page_119'></a>to take his place.'" Professor Dowden does not define -the date when this squabble occurred; but the context -in which he sets it suggests a date anterior to -June 22, when Byron and Shelley started off on their -week's excursion upon the Lake of Geneva. The -very curt narrative of Polidori does not however indicate -any sailing-match, nor any challenge, whether -"sent" or verbally delivered at the moment; and -perhaps it may be more reasonable to suppose that -this present quarrel with Byron was a different affair -altogether—an instance when Polidori happened to -strike Byron's knee with an oar. I shall recur to -the duelling matter farther on.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 5.</i>—At 12 went to Hentsch about Diodati; -thence to Shelley's. Read Tasso. Home in calèche. -Dined with them in the public room: walked in the -garden. Then dressed, and to Odier's, who talked -with me about somnambulism. Was at last seated, -and conversed with some Génevoises: so so—too -fine. Quantities of English; speaking amongst -themselves, arms by their sides, mouths open and -eyes glowing; might as well make a tour of the -Isle of Dogs. Odier gave me yesterday many -articles of <i>Bibliothèque</i>—translated and <i>rédigés</i> by -himself, and to-day a manuscript on somnambulism.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[After the word <i>Bibliothèque</i> Charlotte Polidori has -put some other word, evidently intended to imitate -<a id='Page_120'></a>the <i>look</i> of the word written by Dr. Polidori: it cannot -be read. The subject of somnambulism was one -which had engaged Polidori's attention at an early -age: he printed in 1815 a <i>Disputatio Medica Inauguralis -de Oneirodyniâ</i>, as a thesis for the medical degree -which he then obtained in Edinburgh.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 6.</i>—At 1 up—breakfasted. With Lord Byron -in the calèche to Hentsch, where we got the paper -making us masters of Diodati for six months to -November 1 for 125 louis.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[See my remarks under June 1 as to "Necker's -house," and the rent to be paid. Up to November -1 would be barely five months, not six.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Thence to Shelley: back: dinner. To Shelley in -boat: driven on shore: home. Looked over inventory -and Berger's accounts. Bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 7.</i>—Up at ——. Pains in my loins and languor -in my bones. Breakfasted—looked over inventory.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Saw L[ord] B[yron] at dinner; wrote to my father -and Shelley; went in the boat with L[ord] B[yron]; -agreed with boatman for English boat. Told us -Napoleon had caused him to get his children. Saw -Shelley over again.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It seems rather curious that Polidori, living so -near Shelley, should now have had occasion to write -to him; ought we to infer that the challenge was -now at last sent? Perhaps so; and perhaps, when -<a id='Page_121'></a>Polidori "saw Shelley over again," the poet laughed -the whole foolish matter off.—The boatman's statement -that "Napoleon had caused him to get his -children" means, I suppose, that he wanted to rear -children, to meet Napoleon's conscriptions for -soldiers.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 8.</i>—Up at 9; went to Geneva on horseback, -and then to Diodati to see Shelley; back; dined; -into the new boat—Shelley's,—and talked, till the -ladies' brains whizzed with giddiness, about idealism. -Back; rain; puffs of wind. Mistake.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 9.</i>—Up by 1: breakfasted. Read Lucian. -Dined. Did the same: tea'd. Went to Hentsch: -came home. Looked at the moon, and ordered -packing-up.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 10.</i>—Up at 9. Got things ready for going to -Diodati; settled accounts, etc. Left at 3; went to -Diodati; went back to dinner, and then returned. -Shelley etc. came to tea, and we sat talking till 11. -My rooms are so:</p> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/127.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 11.</i>—Wrote home and to Pryse Gordon. Read -Lucian. Went to Shelley's; dined; Shelley in the -evening with us.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_122'></a><i>June 12.</i>—Rode to town. Subscribed to a circulating -library, and went in the evening to Madame -Odier. Found no one. Miss O[dier], to make time -pass, played the Ranz des Vaches—plaintive and war-like. -People arrived. Had a confab with Dr. O. -about perpanism,<a id='r9' /><a href='#f9' class='c014'><sup>[9]</sup></a> etc. Began dancing: waltzes, cotillons, -French country-dances and English ones: first -time I shook my feet to French measure. Ladies all -waltzed except the English: <i>they</i> looked on frowning. -Introduced to Mrs. Slaney: invited me for next -night. You ask without introduction; the girls refuse -those they dislike. Till 12. Went and slept at the -Balance.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 13.</i>—Rode home, and to town again. Went -to Mrs. Slaney: a ball. Danced and played at chess. -Walked home in thunder and lightning: lost my -way. Went back in search of some one—fell upon -the police. Slept at the Balance.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 14.</i>—Rode home—rode almost all day. Dined -with Rossi, who came to us; shrewd, quick, manly-minded -fellow; like him very much. Shelley etc. fell -in in the evening.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 15.</i>—Up late; began my letters. Went to -Shelley's. After dinner, jumping a wall my foot -<a id='Page_123'></a>slipped and I strained my left ankle. Shelley etc. -came in the evening; talked of my play etc., which -all agreed was worth nothing. Afterwards Shelley -and I had a conversation about principles,—whether -man was to be thought merely an instrument.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The accident to Polidori's ankle was related thus -by Byron in a letter addressed from Ouchy to John -Murray. "Dr. Polidori is not here, but at Diodati; -left behind in hospital with a sprained ankle, acquired -in tumbling from a wall—he can't jump." Thomas -Moore, in his <i>Life of Byron</i>, supplies some details. -"Mrs. Shelley was, after a shower of rain, walking up -the hill to Diodati; when Byron, who saw her from -his balcony where he was standing with Polidori, said -to the latter: 'Now you who wish to be gallant ought -to jump down this small height, and offer your arm.' -Polidori tried to do so; but, the ground being wet, -his foot slipped and he sprained his ankle. Byron -helped to carry him in, and, after he was laid on the -sofa, went up-stairs to fetch a pillow for him. 'Well, -I did not believe you had so much feeling,' was -Polidori's ungracious remark."</p> - -<p class='c006'>The play written by Polidori, which received so -little commendation, was, I suppose, the <i>Cajetan</i> which -is mentioned at an early point in the Journal. There -was another named <i>Boadicea</i>, in prose; very poor -stuff, and I suppose written at an early date. A -<a id='Page_124'></a>different drama named <i>Ximenes</i> was afterwards published: -certainly its merit—whether as a drama or as -a specimen of poetic writing—is slender. The conversation -between Shelley and Polidori about "principles"and -"whether man was to be thought merely -an instrument" appears to have some considerable -analogy with a conversation to which Mary Shelley -and Professor Dowden refer, and which raised in her -mind a train of thought conducing to her invention -of Frankenstein and his Man-monster. Mary, however, -speaks of Byron (not Polidori) as the person who -conversed with Shelley on that occasion. Professor -Dowden, paraphrasing some remarks made by Mary, -says: "One night she sat listening to a conversation -between the two poets at Diodati. What was the -nature, they questioned, of the principle of life? -Would it ever be discovered, and the power of communicating -life be acquired? Perhaps a corpse would -be reanimated; galvanism had given token of such -things. That night Mary lay sleepless," etc.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 16.</i>—Laid up. Shelley came, and dined and -slept here, with Mrs. S[helley] and Miss Clare -Clairmont. Wrote another letter.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This is the first instance in which the name of Miss -Clairmont is given correctly by Polidori; but it may be -presumed that he had, several days back, found out that -she was not properly to be termed "Miss Godwin."]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_125'></a><i>June 17.</i>—Went into the town; dined with Shelley -etc. here. Went after dinner to a ball at Madame -Odier's; where I was introduced to Princess Something -and Countess Potocka, Poles, and had with them -a long confab. Attempted to dance, but felt such -horrid pain was forced to stop. The ghost-stories -are begun by all but me.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This date serves to rectify a small point in literary -history. We all know that the party at Cologny—consisting -of Byron and Polidori on the one hand, -and of Shelley and Mrs. Shelley and Miss Clairmont -on the other—undertook to write each of them an -independent ghost-story, or story of the supernatural; -the result being Byron's fragment of <i>The Vampyre</i>, -Polidori's complete story of <i>The Vampyre</i>, and Mrs. -Shelley's renowned <i>Frankenstein</i>. Shelley and Miss -Clairmont proved defaulters. It used to be said that -Matthew Gregory Lewis, author of <i>The Monk</i>, had -been mixed up in the same project; but this is a -mistake, for Lewis only reached the Villa Diodati -towards the middle of August. Professor Dowden -states as follows: "During a few days of ungenial -weather which confined them to the house [by "them" -Shelley and the two ladies are evidently meant, and -perhaps also Byron and Polidori] some volumes of -ghost-stories, <i>Fantasmagoriana, ou Recueil d'Histoires -d'Apparitions, de Spectres, Revenans</i>, etc. (a collection -<a id='Page_126'></a>translated into French from the German) fell into -their hands, and its perusal probably excited and -overstrained Shelley's imagination." Professor Dowden -then proceeds to narrate an incident connected -with Coleridge's <i>Christabel</i>, of which more anon; and -he says that immediately <i>after</i> that incident Byron -proposed, "We will each write a ghost-story"—a -suggestion to which the others assented. It is only -fair to observe that Professor Dowden's account corresponds -with that which Polidori himself supplied in the -proem to his tale of <i>The Vampyre</i>. But Polidori's -Diary proves that this is not absolutely correct. -The ghost-stories (prompted by the <i>Fantasmagoriana</i>, -a poor sort of book) had already been begun by Byron, -Shelley, Mrs. Shelley, and Miss Clairmont, not later -than June 17, whereas the <i>Christabel</i> incident happened -on June 18. Byron's story, as I have already said, -was <i>The Vampyre</i>, left a fragment; Shelley's is stated -to have been some tale founded on his own early -experiences—nothing farther is known of it; Mrs. -Shelley's was eventually <i>Frankenstein</i>, but, from the -details which have been published as to the first conception -of this work, we must assume that what she -had begun by June 17 was something different: of -Miss Clairmont's story no sort of record remains.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The Countess Potocka, whom Polidori mentions, -was a lady belonging to the highest Polish nobility, -<a id='Page_127'></a>grand-niece of Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski, -who had been King of Poland up to 1798. She -was daughter of Count Tyszkiewicz, and married -Count Potocki, and afterwards Count Wonsowicz. -Born in 1776, she lived on to 1867, when she died -in Paris, a leader of society under the Second Empire. -Thus she was forty years old when Polidori saw -her. She wrote memoirs of her life, going up to -1820: a rather entertaining book, dealing with many -important transactions, especially of the period of -Napoleon I: she gives one to understand that this -supreme potentate was rather susceptible to her -charms, but a rival compatriot, the Countess Walewska, -was then in the ascendant. I have seen -reproductions from two portraits of the Countess -Potocka, both of them ascribed to Angelica Kauffman: -one of these shows a strikingly handsome -young woman, with dark eyes of singular brilliancy -and sentiment. Its date cannot be later than 1807, -when the painter died, and may probably be as -early as 1800.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 18.</i>—My leg much worse. Shelley and party -here. Mrs. S[helley] called me her brother (younger). -Began my ghost-story<a id='r10' /><a href='#f10' class='c014'><sup>[10]</sup></a> after tea. Twelve o'clock, -<a id='Page_128'></a>really began to talk ghostly. L[ord] B[yron] repeated -some verses of Coleridge's <i>Christabel</i>, of the -witch's breast; when silence ensued, and Shelley, -suddenly shrieking and putting his hands to his head, -ran out of the room with a candle. Threw water in -his face, and after gave him ether. He was looking -at Mrs. S[helley], and suddenly thought of a woman -he had heard of who had eyes instead of nipples, -which, taking hold of his mind, horrified him.—He -married; and, a friend of his liking his wife, he tried -all he could to induce her to love him in turn. He is -surrounded by friends who feed upon him, and draw -upon him as their banker. Once, having hired a -house, a man wanted to make him pay more, and -came trying to bully him, and at last challenged him. -Shelley refused, and was knocked down; coolly said -that would not gain him his object, and was knocked -down again.—Slaney called.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Some of these statements are passing strange, and -most of them call for a little comment. First we -hear that Mrs. Shelley called Polidori her younger -brother—a designation which may have been endearing -but was not accurate; for, whereas the doctor was -aged 20 at this date, Mrs. Shelley was aged only 18. -Next, Polidori, after tea, began his ghost-story. This, -according to Mrs. Shelley, was a tale about "a skull-headed -lady, who was so punished for peeping through -<a id='Page_129'></a>a keyhole—what to see, I forget; something very -shocking and wrong, of course." So says Mrs. -Shelley: but Polidori's own statement is that the tale -which he at first began was the one published under -the title of <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, which contains nothing -about a skull-headed lady: some details are given in -my Introduction. Afterwards he took up the notion -of a vampyre, when relinquished by Byron. The -original story, <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, may possibly have -been completed in 1816: at any rate it was completed -at some time, and published in 1819, soon after <i>The -Vampyre</i>. Then comes the incident (first published -in my edition of Shelley's poems in 1870) of Byron -repeating some lines from <i>Christabel</i>, and Shelley, -who mixed them up with some fantastic idea already -present to his mind, decamping with a shriek. The -lines from <i>Christabel</i> are these—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>"Then drawing in her breath aloud,</div> - <div class='line'>Like one that shuddered, she unbound</div> - <div class='line'>The cincture from beneath her breast:</div> - <div class='line'>Her silken robe and inner vest</div> - <div class='line'>Dropped to her feet, and full in view</div> - <div class='line'>Behold! her bosom and half her side,</div> - <div class='line'>Hideous, deformed, and pale of hue—</div> - <div class='line'>A sight to dream of, not to tell!</div> - <div class='line'>And she is to sleep by Christabel!"</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>From this incident Polidori proceeds to three statements -regarding occurrences in Shelley's life; it -may be presumed that he had heard them from the -<a id='Page_130'></a>poet in the course of this same evening. "A friend -of his liking his wife, he tried all he could to induce -her to love him in turn." Nothing of this sort appears -in the authenticated facts of Shelley's life. It is -certain that, very soon after he had married Harriet -Westbrook in 1811, he saw reason for thinking that -his friend Hogg "liked his wife," both of them being -then in York; but, so far from "trying all he could -to induce her to love him in turn," he at once -took her away from York to Keswick, and he -addressed letters of grave remonstrance and sad -reproach to Hogg, and then for a time broke off -all intercourse with him. The only other matter -one knows of at all relevant to this issue is that -Shelley alleged that afterwards a certain Major Ryan -carried on an intrigue with Harriet. He blamed -and resented her imputed frailty, and put it forward -as a principal motive for his separating from her. It -is certainly possible that, after the separation, he -told Harriet that she might as well "make the best -of a bad job," and adhere to Ryan, since she would -not adhere to her wedded husband: but no indication -of any such advice on his part appears anywhere -else. Be it understood that I do not at all affirm -that this suspicion or statement of Shelley's about -Harriet and Ryan was correct. I doubt it extremely, -though not venturing summarily to reject -<a id='Page_131'></a>it. The next point is that Shelley was "surrounded -by friends who feed upon him, and draw upon him -as their banker." This probably glances at Godwin, -and perhaps also at Charles Clairmont, the brother of -Clare. Thomas Love Peacock may likewise be in -question: not Leigh Hunt, for, though the cap might -have fitted him in and after the year 1817, it did not -so in the present year 1816, since Hunt was as yet -all but unknown to our poet. Last comes the -funny statement about a hectoring landlord who -twice knocked down the non-duelling author of -<i>Queen Mab</i>. It is difficult to guess what this allegation -may refer to. Shelley had by this time had -several landlords in different parts of the United -Kingdom; and quite possibly some of them thought -his rent unduly low, or more especially his quarterly -or other instalments irregularly paid, but who can -have been the landlord who took the law so decisively -into his own hands, and found so meekly unresisting -a tenant, I have no idea. There was an odd incident -on January 19, 1812, when Shelley, then living at -Keswick, was (or was said to have been) struck down -senseless on the threshold of his door—seemingly by -a couple of robbers. On that occasion, however, his -landlord, Mr. Dare, appeared in the character of a -guardian angel: so we must dismiss any notion that -this incident, the one which in some of its features -<a id='Page_132'></a>seems to come nearest the mark, is that which Shelley -so ingenuously imparted to Polidori.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 19.</i>—Leg worse; began my ghost-story. Mr. -S[helley?] etc. forth here. Bonstetten and Rossi -called. B[onstetten] told me a story of the religious -feuds in Appenzel; a civil war between Catholics and -Protestants. Battle arranged; chief advances; calls -the other. Calls himself and other fools, for battles -will not persuade of his being wrong. Other agreed, -and persuaded them to take the boundary rivulet; -they did. Bed at 3 as usual.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 20.</i>—My leg kept me at home. Shelley etc. -here.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 21.</i>—Same.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 22.</i>—L[ord] B[yron] and Shelley went to -Vevay; Mrs. S[helley] and Miss Clare Clairmont -to town. Went to Rossi's—had tired his patience. -Called on Odier; Miss reading Byron.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The expedition of Byron and Shelley to Vevay -was that same Lake-voyage which forms so prominent -an incident in their Swiss experiences. Their -starting upon this expedition had hitherto been dated -June 23. Professor Dowden has expressed a doubt -whether June 22 would not be the correct date, and -here we find that so it is.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 23.</i>—Went to town; apologized to Rossi. -Called on Dr. Slaney etc. Walked to Mrs. Shelley. -<a id='Page_133'></a>Pictet, Odier, Slaney, dined with me. Went down to -Mrs. S[helley?] for the evening. Odier mentioned -the cases of two gentlemen who, on taking the nitrate -of silver, some time after had a blacker face. Pictet -confirmed it.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 24.</i>—Up at 12. Dined down with Mrs. -S[helley] and Miss C[lare] C[lairmont].</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The dates hereabouts become somewhat embarrassing. -For the day which I am calling June 24 -Polidori repeats June 23; and he continues with the -like sequence of days up to June 29, when, as he -notes, he "found Lord Byron and Shelley returned." -It seems to be an established fact that the day when -Shelley got back to Montalègre was July 1: he has -stated so, and a note to the <i>Letters of Lord Byron</i> -states the same. Thus Polidori seems to have dropped -two days. One is accounted for by substituting June -24 for June 23; and I shall call the next day June -26, though uncertain as to where the second error -occurs.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 26.</i>—Up. Mounted on horseback: went to -town. Saw Mrs. Shelley: dined. To Dr. Rossi's -party of physicians: after at Mrs. S[helley's?].</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 27.</i>—Up at Mrs. Shelley's: dined. No calèche -arrived: walked to G[eneva]. No horses: ordered -saddle-horse. Walked to Rossi's—gone. Went to -the gate: found him. Obliged to break off the -<a id='Page_134'></a>appointment. Went to Odier's. Met with Mr. ——, -a friend of Lord Byron's father. Invited me to his -house: been a long time on the Continent. Music, -ranz des vaches, beautiful. Rode two hours; went -to Mrs. S[helley]; Miss C[lairmont] talked of a -soliloquy.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This last phrase is not clear: does it mean that -Miss Clairmont talked <i>in</i> a soliloquy—talked to -herself, in such a way as to excite observation?]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 28.</i>—All day at Mrs. S[helley's].</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 29.</i>—Up at 1; studied; down at Mrs. -S[helley's].</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>June 30.</i>—Same.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>July 1.</i>—Went in calèche to town with Mrs. -S[helley] and C[lare] for a ride, and to mass (which -we did not go to, being begun). Dined at 1. Went -to town to Rossi. Introduced to Marchese Saporati; -together to Mr. Saladin of Vaugeron, Countess -Breuss, Calpnafur; and then to a party of ladies.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The word which I give as Calpnafur is -dubious in Charlotte Polidori's transcript: it is -evidently one of those words as to which she felt -uncertain, and she wrote it as near to Dr. Polidori's -script as she could manage. The other three names—Saporati, -Saladin, and Breuss—are not elucidated -in any book I have consulted. Perhaps Saporati -ought to be Saporiti—see p. 149. There were two -<a id='Page_135'></a>Saladins of some note in France in the days of the -Revolution and Empire—one of them lived on to 1832; -but I can scarcely think that this Saladin in Geneva -was of the same race. He may be the "Syndic -Saladin" mentioned farther on.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Found Lord Byron and Shelley returned.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>July 2.</i>—Rain all day. In the evening to Mrs. -S[helley].</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 5.</i>—Not written my Journal till now -through neglect and dissipation. Had a long explanation -with S[helley] and L[ord] B[yron] about my conduct -to L[ord] B[yron]; threatened to shoot S[helley] one -day on the water. Horses been a subject of quarrel -twice, Berger having accused me of laming one.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Before this date, September 5, Shelley, with Mary -and Miss Clairmont, had finally left the neighbourhood -of Geneva; they started on August 29 upon -their return journey to England. The statement that -Polidori "threatened to shoot Shelley one day on the -water" brings us back again to that question, of which -I spoke under the date of June 4, about some hare-brained -quarrel with Shelley leading to a challenge -for a duel. The natural inference from the position -which this entry occupies in Polidori's Diary certainly -is that the threat to Shelley occurred at some date -between July 2 and August 28—not at the earlier -date of June 4; and so I presume it more probably -<a id='Page_136'></a>did. We find also that Polidori's conduct in relation -to Byron was considered not to be correct; and this -formed the subject of "a long explanation" not only -with Byron himself but likewise with Shelley.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>L[ord] B[yron] went to town in pursuit of thieves -who came to steal the anchors after having stolen my -sail. Was refused permission to go out. I went to -the Syndic Saladin, and told him I begged his pardon -for our servants, who must have said something insulting, -or else he could not have refused permission -to leave the port. Thieves attempted to break into -the house.</p> - -<p class='c006'>An apothecary sold some bad magnesia to L[ord] -B[yron]. Found it bad by experiment of sulphuric -acid colouring it red rose-colour. Servants spoke -about it. Appointed Castan to see experiment; -came; impudent; refused to go out; collared him, -sent him out, broke spectacles. Laid himself on a -wall for three hours; refused to see experiments. -Saw L[ord] B[yron], told him his tale before two -physicians. Brought me to trial before five judges; -had an advocate to plead. I pleaded for myself; -laughed at the advocate. Lost his cause on the plea -of calumny; made me pay 12 florins for the broken -spectacles and costs. Magnesia chiefly alumina, as -proved by succenate<a id='r11' /><a href='#f11' class='c014'><sup>[11]</sup></a> and carbonate of ammonia.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_137'></a>Dined twice at Madame de Staël's; visited there -also; met Madame de Broglie and M[onsieur?]; Miss -Randall; two Roccas; Schlegel; Monsignor Brema; -Dumont; Bonstetten; Madame Bottini; Madame -Mongelas; young de Staël.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It will be observed that Dr. Polidori, although he -details these various circumstances likely to create -some soreness between Lord Byron and himself, does -not here state in express terms that the poet had -parted with him. At the end of this entry for -September 5 he does, however, give a few words to -the subject, confirmatory of Lord Byron's ensuing -remarks. Byron, in a good-humoured spirit, gave a -general explanation in a letter addressed to John -Murray on January 24, 1817. He understood that -Polidori was "about to return to England, to go to -the Brazils on a medical speculation with the Danish -Consul" (which, however, he did not actually do); -and Byron asked Murray to get the Doctor any -letters of recommendation. Then he adds: "He -understands his profession well, and has no want of -general talent: his faults are the faults of a pardonable -vanity and youth. His remaining with me was -out of the question. I have enough to do to manage -my own scrapes; and, as precepts without example -are not the most gracious homilies, I thought it better -to give him his <i>congé</i>: but I know no great harm of -<a id='Page_138'></a>him, and some good. He is clever and accomplished; -knows his profession, by all accounts, well; and is -honourable in his dealings, and not at all malevolent." -In March 1820 Byron made a few other observations -applicable to his intercourse with Polidori: "The -sole companion of my journey was a young physician -who had to make his way in the world, and, having -seen very little of it, was naturally and laudably -desirous of seeing more society than suited my -present habits or my past experience. I therefore -presented him to those gentlemen of Geneva for -whom I had letters of introduction; and, having thus -seen him in a situation to make his own way, retired -for my own part entirely from society, with the -exception of one English family"—<i>i.e.</i> Shelley and -his two ladies. At times, however, Byron was less -lenient to the Doctor. On June 17, 1817, he wrote -to Murray: "I never was much more disgusted with -any human production than with the eternal nonsense -and <i>tracasseries</i> and emptiness and ill-humour and -vanity of that young person: but he has some talent, -and is a man of honour, and has dispositions of -amendment in which he has been aided by a little -subsequent experience, and may turn out well."</p> - -<p class='c006'>It may be hardly needful to state that "Madame -de Broglie and Monsieur" (<i>i.e.</i> the Duc Victor de -Broglie) were the daughter and son-in-law of Madame -<a id='Page_139'></a>de Staël: they were now but very recently wedded, -February 20, 1816. Byron thought the youthful wife -devoted to her husband, and said "Nothing was -more pleasing than to see the development of the -domestic affections in a very young woman." Of the -two Roccas, one is remembered as Madame de Staël's -second husband. He was a very handsome officer -of Swiss origin. They married privately in 1811, -she being then aged about forty-five, and he twenty-two. -He only survived his wife about six months, -dying in 1818. August Wilhelm von Schlegel was -at this date about forty-nine years old, celebrated as -a translator of Shakespear and Calderon, and as a -scholar of extensive range. He had travelled much -with Madame de Staël, who drew on him for some -of the ideas set forth in her book <i>De l'Allemagne</i>. -Monsignor Brema is a good deal mentioned farther -on: he was a son of the Marchese di Brema (or -Brême), who had been a valuable Minister of the -Interior under the Napoleonic <i>régime</i> in Italy. -Dumont, who has been previously named by Polidori -as the translator of Bentham, was also closely -associated with the great Mirabeau.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Vaugeron, the Saladins, Auguste Mathould, -Rossi, Jacques Naple [?], Brelaz, Clemann, Countess -Mouskinpouskin, Breuss, Abate Gatelier, Toffettheim -e figlio, Foncet, Saussure, Lord Breadalbane and -<a id='Page_140'></a>family, a ball; Saladin of Maligny, Slaneys, two -balls; Dr. and Mrs. Freckton White, Galstons (Miss -etc. sisters), a ball; Lord Bingham, Lord F. Cunningham, -Lord Belgray, a ball; Mr. Tillotson St. Aubyn, -Mrs. Trevanion, Valence Meers, R. Simmons, Lloyd, -Princess Jablonski, Lady Hamilton Dalrymple, -Odiers, Lord Kinnoul, Somers, Lord Glenorchy, Mr. -Evans, Coda (songstress), M. G. Lewis, Mrs. Davies, -Mr. Pictet, Mr. Hobhouse, Dr. Gardner, Caravella, -Shelleys, Sir John St. Aubyn.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Most of these numerous names must be left to -themselves: several of them are hereafter commented, -often caustically, by Polidori himself. Saussure is -not the more celebrated naturalist and traveller, -Horace Benedict, who died in 1799; but is his son, -Nicolas Théodore, who coöperated largely with the -father, and produced an important book of his own, -<i>Recherches sur la Végétation</i>. Born in 1767, he lived -on to 1845. Mrs. Trevanion may be supposed to -have belonged to the same family as a certain Mr. -Trevanion who figured very discreditably in the -history of that Medora Leigh who was the daughter -of the Honourable Mrs. Leigh (Byron's half sister) -and ostensibly of her husband, but who is now said -to have been in fact the daughter of Byron himself. -Lady Hamilton Dalrymple ought seemingly to be -Lady Dalrymple Hamilton: she was a daughter of -<a id='Page_141'></a>Viscount Duncan, and wife of Sir Hew D. Hamilton. -Somers is mentioned on p. 150: this is probably the -correct spelling, not (as here) Summers. Matthew -Gregory Lewis (whom I had occasion to name before) -was the author of <i>The Monk</i>, which he wrote at the -early age of nineteen, of the musical drama <i>The Castle -Spectre</i>, and of other works whose celebrity has not -survived into the present day. He was now near the -end of his brief career, for he died in 1818, aged -forty-two.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The society I have been in may be divided into -three sets: the canton of Genthoud, Coppet, and -Geneva. The canton is an assemblage of a neighbourhood -of about seven or eight families, meeting -alternately on Sundays at each other's houses, and -every Thursday at the Countess Breuss's. The -Countess Breuss lives at Genthoud in a villa she -has bought. She has two husbands, one in Russia, -one at Venice; she acted plays at the Hermitage -under Catherine. Not being able to get a divorce, -she left Russia, went to Venice for six days, stayed -as many years, married (it is said), bought villas etc. -in the Venetian's name, and separated. Her family -consists of Madame Gatelier, a humble friend, a -great lover of medicaments etc., Abate ——, her -Almoner, an excellent Brescian, great lover of religionists. -A mania in the family for building summer-houses, -<a id='Page_142'></a>porticoes, and baths; neatly planned; an island -with a ditch round it; a Tower of Babel round the -trunk of a chestnut; a summer-house by the roadside -of a Moorish construction. The Countess is very -good-natured, laughs where others calumniate and -talk scandal with prudish airs, kind to all. The -society is extremely pleasant; generally dancing or -music. It was the birthday of Charles Saladin, who, -having been four years in Nap[oleon]'s army, knew -nothing of the matter. She asked to have the fêting -of him. They acted first a charade on the canton of -Genthoud. She acted with Mr. Massey junior, with -others, and myself as a woman—the words to blind.<a id='r12' /><a href='#f12' class='c014'><sup>[12]</sup></a> -Then came a kind of farce, in which Charles was -dressed as the C. B. [Countess Breuss?], Gatelier as -the Abbé, and Miss Saladin as Gatelier: each took -one another off. Written by C. B. When at last -another of the society brought a letter announcing it -to be Charles' birthday. Then they, while he was in -his amazement, sang a song to him, presented him -with a bouquet and purse. Then an elegant supper, -and afterwards a ball on the arrival of Madame -Toffettheim with her son. A great party was invited; -and after tea two plays were acted—<i>Le Pachà de</i> -<a id='Page_143'></a><i>Suresne</i> and <i>Les Ricochets</i>. There was an immense -number of spectators. The actors were, in <i>Le Pachà -de Suresne</i>, Madame Dorsan, la Comtesse Breuss; -Laure, Madlle. Brelaz; Aglaé, Clemann; Nathalie, -M.; Madlle. Remy, Madame Gatelier; Perceval, Alexis -Saladin; Flicflac, Polidori; Joseph, C. Saladin.—<i>Les -Ricochets</i>—I do not remember the characters. -The actors were Alexis, Charles, Auguste Saladin, -Massey le jeune, La Comtesse Breuss, Madame -Mathilde Saladin. The rehearsals before were -frequent.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I got a discretion from the Countess, which I took -in the shape of a Swiss,<a id='r13' /><a href='#f13' class='c014'><sup>[13]</sup></a> in consequence of a wager -that I could not go straight home.</p> - -<p class='c006'>La Toffettheim is a nice, unpretending, lady-like -woman, pleasing and affectionate. Her son full of -liberty-ideas. It was here, in consequence of Massey -junior dancing extremely well, that, being defied, I -danced a pantaloon-dance, by which I made enemies; -for, upon my refusing it at the Saladins', they thought -it was a personal refusal. Saladins of Vaugeron, -father and mother. Father deaf, good-natured: said -to me upon reading my thesis, "Mais, Monsieur, il -n'y a pas de paradoxe." The mother pretended to -play shy on account of Madame B.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_144'></a>[By Madame B. it would appear, from a statement -farther on, that Polidori means Madame Brelaz.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The daughter—because, the first night I saw her, -knowing her by particular introduction, I stuck to -her—thought me in love, and said so,—fool! Madame -Mathilde [Saladin] pretended prude in mine and -Madame B.'s case, while she herself has got Mr. -Massey junior dangling, not unheard, after her. -Charles a good boisterous soldier, at Leipzig, Nassau, -and 13 ingwen [?]<a id='r14' /><a href='#f14' class='c014'><sup>[14]</sup></a> Waterloo business. Makes up for -wit by noise, for affection by slaps on the back. On -his birthday I addressed him with (after supper)—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>"Jeune guerrier dans l'armée du premier des héros,</div> - <div class='line'>Dans la cause de la France dédaignant le repos,</div> - <div class='line'>Que la chute de vos ans soit tranquille et heureuse,</div> - <div class='line'>Comme fut l'aube de vos jours éclatante et glorieuse."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>[This little specimen suffices to show that Polidori -had no true idea of French versification: he was -evidently unaware that a final <i>e</i> mute coming before -a consonant counts as a syllable.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Auguste, a simple neat fool, despising learning -because he is noble and has enough to live upon; -content to dangle, with a compliment and a sentiment, -after a woman's tail. Alexis, so so, good-naturedly -ignorant husband to Mathilde. Massey senior, active -<a id='Page_145'></a>pleasant man, excellent fencer and dancer—been -secretary to Bertrand. Massey junior, confident, -impudent, insolent, ignorant puppy. Saladins of -Maligny, neither good nor bad, rich: to gain a little -more, let their villa to Lord Breadalbane, and retired -to a cottage, though both old and only one ugly vain -daughter. Lord Breadalbane, an excellent, good-sensed -though not quick man: answered—when the -Duke of Bedford said to him, "What would you give -to have the Breadalbane estate in Bedfordshire?"—"Why, -your Grace, I should be sorry if my estate -would go in Bedfordshire." Gave a very good ball -at which I was. His son Lord Glenorchy, good, shy, -not brilliant young man. His lady not spoken to. -His daughter excellent dancer, rather haughty. Mr. -Evans, a good sensible man, biassed in his thoughts -by his cassock. At the society he took up the immortality: -Lord Glenorchy gave a positive No. -Saussure, Mrs., a wax talkative figure. Mr., a -would-be scientific gentleman: thought me a fool -because I danced pantaloon, and himself a wise man -because he knows the names of his father's stones. -Jacquet, Madlle., got half in love with her,—no, her -8000 a year: her face and bad-singing exposures -cured me. Foncet, officer of the Piedmontese troops, -jealous of him.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Brelaz, Portuguese lady,—in love with her; I think -<a id='Page_146'></a>fond of me too; imprudent; her daughter also against -me on account of it; shows it too much publicly; -very jealous; her daughters, sprightly good-looking -girls. Clemann—got half in love with her; nice -daughter. The Cavalier pleasing. Had a dispute in -a public ball with her two fools. One of the Saladins, -Auguste, courts her, and she laughs; she excites love -in every young man's breast. Miss Harriet is rather -too serious for her age, pretty and well-informed in -novels and romances, and rather too sentimental. -Cavalier's Marianne is a fine hoydenish creature: -applies when studying, and romps when playing.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Madame de Staël I have dined with three times; -she is better, those who know her say, at home than -abroad. She has married poor Rocca. She talks -much; would not believe me to be a physician; presented -her my thesis, which she told me she had read -with pleasure. Talked about religion, and puts down -every [?] of Rocca. Ugly; good eyes. Writing on -the French Revolution; polite, affable; lectures, and -tells all to L[ord] B[yron]. Madame de Broglie, her -daughter, a beautiful, dirty-skinned woman; pleasant, -soft-eyed speaker; dances well, waltzes. Schlegel, a -presumptuous literato, contradicting <i>à outrance</i>; a -believer in magnetism. Rocca, a talkative, good-natured, -beautiful man, with a desire for knowledge; -the author of <i>Walcheren</i> and <i>Espagne</i>; excellent at -<a id='Page_147'></a>naïve description. Rocca, the judge, very clever and -quick, rising; know little of him. Been seven years -in the courtship of Miss Saladin; she neither refuses -nor accepts him, but keeps him in her train. Miss -Randall, sister to Mrs. Norgate. Monsignor Brema, -friend of Ugo Foscolo, enthusiastic for Italy, encomiast -in all, Grand Almoner of Italy, hater of Austrians. -Dumont, a thick, heavy-thoughted body, editor of -Bentham. Bonstetten, friend of Gray.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The first time L[ord] B[yron] went, there was Mrs. -Hervey there; talkative, sister and a great friend of -the Noels; she thought proper to faint out of the -house, though her curiosity brought her back to speak -with him.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Bonstetten told me that, upon his saying to Gray -that he must be happy, he took and read to him the -criticism of Johnson, which happens to have been -written after Gray's death; he used to go in the -evening to tea, and remain all night reading the -English authors with him. Gray introduced him to -society;<a id='r15' /><a href='#f15' class='c014'><sup>[15]</sup></a> and, one of the professors having asked him -if he understood what he said, he replied he thought -<a id='Page_148'></a>so, but very diff[idently?]—"So you think so only!" -Gray, hearing this, showed B[onstetten] some passages -to ask <i>him</i>, which B[onstetten] did in a public -company, complimenting him upon [his?] known -knowledge; when all the company, one after the -other, began contradicting the Professor's opinion. -Then B[onstetten], turning to him, said, "You perhaps -thought <i>you</i> understood Shakespear." Gray told -him that there was none who could <i>perfectly</i> understand -him.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Rossi, an Italian of about thirty, pleasant, agreeable, -and good-natured, professor at Bologna, thence -obliged to fly with two others. One of his companions -was beginning his lecture, when the students called -out, "No lecture, but an improvise upon the liberty -of Italy"; as he was an improvisatore. He objected, -as, on account of Murat's approach, it might be suspicious. -They insisted, and the professors at hand -said, "No harm if not upon present circumstances." -He did it, and the students issued forth to join Murat; -they had however made up their minds to do so -before. Rossi joined it more openly and loudly, and -was obliged to fly. He wrote a memoir to defend -himself, in which he said it was only to avoid the -Roman dominion, and give it to the Archduke; who -told him that he had better write another, as Bologna -was already ceded to Pius. When he was ruined thus -<a id='Page_149'></a>partially he wrote to the father of his betrothed, to -say that he must not (if he chose) think himself bound -by his promise, as he was not in the same circumstances -as when the promise was given. The father -did retract. So far a man of honour. Now how to -reconcile his being with Calandion, a magistrate of -G[eneva] violent on the other side? who says he has -made a good profession to him, and at the same time -professing other opinions to others.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Gave me a letter to Milan, and by him I have been -introduced to Saporiti, a good, enthusiastic, ignorant -Italian. Talked of the English landing 100,000 -soldiers here and there, as if they were so many -peas.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Slaneys: the husband jealous of every one—Cambridge -degree. When I danced with his wife, he -after, when walking with her, came up and gave an -arm too. The wife beautiful, but very simple. -Galston, Miss, very beautiful.</p> - -<p class='c006'>"Genevan Liberal Society" is a muster of Englishmen -for debate on speculative questions. Twice -there. Immortality, accomplice's evidence. The -members whom I knew were—Lord Kinnoul, a most -tiresome, long-winded, repeating, thick-headed would-be -orator, Lord Conyngham.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The MS. gives "Cunningham," which must be a -mistake. The Lord Conyngham of this period began -<a id='Page_150'></a>the year 1816 as an Earl, and ended it as a Marquis. -He was born in 1766, and lived on to 1832, and was -husband of a lady, Elizabeth Denison, whose name -figures much in the gossip, not excluding the scandal, -of those years.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Mr. Somers, good head enough. Valence, whom I -cried to hear; and, meeting me after at Chamounix, -the first thing he asked me was, "Why did you laugh -at me?" St. Aubyn, Lloyd, Slaney.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Lloyd, of good Welsh blood, his original name -Ap Griffith, rode out. We went out visiting one -day, and, in returning in his gig, he touched a horse -of a row of carts. The carter struck me upon my -back with his whip; I jumped down, and six jumped -at me. I fortunately was between a wheel and a -hedge, so that they all could not reach. Lloyd, -seeing this, jumped down also; then three left me -and went to him, and another untied a piece of his -wagon with which, while I defended myself from -the two (one with a whip), he struck me while -fortunately my arm was striking a blow, so that it -did but just touch my face. He lifted again; I -sprang back, and with all the force of my leap struck -him with my fist in his face. His blow fell to the -ground, and with his hand to his nose he retreated. -They then seized stones to throw, but we closed with -them; they could not throw above two, when we -<a id='Page_151'></a>saw an English carriage we knew coming. We -called, they came, and immediately the boisterous -[fellows?] were calm. Some who tried to divide us -got blows also.</p> - -<p class='c006'>St. Aubyn, an excellent fellow, introduced me to -his father at Genthoud: is a natural son, studying -for the Church. His father is a good polite man, -according to the "go" school.<a id='r16' /><a href='#f16' class='c014'><sup>[16]</sup></a> Keeps a mistress -now, though sixty-five years: has many children by -different mistresses.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Dr. Odier's—who is a good old, toothless, -chatty, easy-believing man—there was a society -every Wednesday, where I went sometimes. They -danced, sang, ate cakes, and drank tea; English -almost entirely, changing every Wednesday.—Went -to a concert of Madamigella Coda—the theatre dirty.</p> - -<p class='c006'>When Mr. Hobhouse and Davies arrived, we went -to Chamounix. The first day through Chesne, Annemasse, -Vetra, Nangy, Contamine, Bonneville (dinner), -Cluses, Sallenches (slept). Next day by Chede in -two <i>char-à-bancs</i>, with each a guide; a fine pine-glen -of the Arve, to Chamounix. We went that evening -over the Brisson, and to the source of the Aveyron. -Next day so bad we left, and returned to Sallenches, -taking the fall of Chede in our way; thence to -<a id='Page_152'></a>Diodati. Mr. Scrope Davies played against the -marker at tennis: then went, taking Rushton with -him. [Rushton was one of the servants.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>L[ord] B[yron] determined upon our parting,—not -upon any quarrel, but on account of our not suiting. -Gave me £70; 50 for 3 months and 20 for voyage. -Paid away a great deal, and then thought of setting -off: determined for Italy. Madame de Staël gave -me three letters. Madame B[relaz?] wept, and most -seemed sorry.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[I suppose that most likely the "Madame B." here -is Madame Brelaz, with whom, as stated on p. 145, -Polidori was "in love." Or it might perhaps be the -Comtesse de Breuss.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The night before I went, at Madame B[reuss?]'s, -they acted <i>C'est le Même</i> extremely well; a Lausanne -girl acting the lady very well. The costumes also -extremely good. Wished nobody good-bye: told -them, though, I was going. Set off with 47 louis, -112 naps.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Le Valais from Schürer's book, <i>Description du -Département du Simplon</i>, 1812, lent me by the -Cav[aliere]. See elsewhere.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 16.</i>—Left Cologny and Lord Byron at -six in the morning. Breakfasted at Doraine, 3 -leagues. Dined, Thouson, ditto. Evrein, 2. Slept -St. Gingoux, 4. Passed Meillerie. Saw Lausanne -<a id='Page_153'></a>at a distance, right through this part of Sardinian -King's dominions. Read Madame Brelaz's verses. -Wept—not at them, but at the prose.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 17.</i>—Left St. Gingoux at 6. Walked -to ——.<a id='r17' /><a href='#f17' class='c014'><sup>[17]</sup></a> Took bread and wine. Crossed to Chillon. -Saw Bonivard's prison for six years; whence a -Frenchman had broken, and, passing through a -window, swam to a boat. Instruments of torture,—the -pulley. Three soldiers there now: the Roman -arms already affixed. Large subterranean passes. -Saw in passing the three treed islands. The Rhone -enters by two mouths, and keeps its waters distinct -for two stones' throw.</p> - -<p class='c006'>From Chillon I went to Montreaux—breakfasted—leaving -Charney on my left. I began to mount -towards the Dent de Jamanu. Before beginning to -mount Jamanu itself, one has a beautiful view, seeing -only part of the lake, bound by Meillerie, Roches, -and the Rhone. Higher up the view is more -extensive, but not so beautiful—nothing being distinct; -the water looking merely as an inlet of sky, -but one could see the Jura as far as Genthoud.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I entered a chalet, where they expressed great -astonishment at my drinking whey, which they give -to their pigs only. Refused at first money.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_154'></a>Descended towards Mont Boyon. What owing to -the fatigue and hardly meeting any one, sick with -grief. At Mont Boyon dined, and, finding they -would not dance, slept immediately after.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 18.</i>—Up at 4. Drank wine and bread. -At 6 set off. Passed the Château d'Ox where there -was a fair. After that, hardly met a soul. Always -on the side of the mountains, each side of a river -or torrent; with torrent-beds, pine-forests, chalets, -villages without a visible soul—all at work—and ups -and downs: so that this road, if I had not had that -of yesterday, I should have called the worst in the -world. Passed through Château d'Ox; Rougemont, -breakfast; Zwezermann, dinner; Gessenay; Lambeck; -Reichenstein; Weissenbach; Bottingen, tea -and night. The French language leaves off at -Gessenay (rather, patois), and they begin their -German: found it difficult to go on.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 19.</i>—Got up at 4-1/2. Set off from Bottingen. -Went through Obernoyle. Breakfasted at Wyssenbach: -refused my money. Went to the Doctor, -who charged me a nap. Went through Erlenbach, -Lauterbach, Meiningen, to Thun. Splendid scenery; -especially the first look at the Lake by the river's -mouth, and the pass into a great valley. Took -dinner, and then a warm bath. Arrived at 1 o'clock. -All the houses are of wood, the foundation only -<a id='Page_155'></a>being stone: great cut ornaments between the rows -of windows: the wood, fir. Felt very miserable, -especially these two last days: only met two persons -to whom I could speak—the others all Germans. -At Wyssenbach they all said grace before breakfast, -and then ate out of the same dish; remarking (as -I understood them) that I, not being a Catholic, -would laugh.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It was a mistake to suppose that Dr. Polidori was -"not a Catholic." He was brought up as a Catholic, -and never changed his religion, but may (I suppose) -have been something of a sceptic.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 20.</i>—Got up at 6. Wrote to St. Aubyn, -Brelaz, father, Vaccà, and Zio, asking letters; to my -father, to announce my parting.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Vaccà was a celebrated surgeon at Pisa, of whom -we shall hear farther. Zio is "my uncle"—<i>i.e.</i> Luigi -Polidori, also at Pisa.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Bought fresh shoes and stockings; found no book-seller's -shop. The man at the post-office made a -good reflection: that he was astonished so many -came to see what they who were so near never want -to see, and that he supposed that the English also -leave much unseen in their own country.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Thun is a neat well-situated town, not large, with -arcades—as apparently all the Berne towns. Afraid -all day my dog was poisoned; which grieved me so, -<a id='Page_156'></a>at seeing it vomit, that I wept. At 2 o'clock went -in search of a boat: none going immediately, I -walked along the left bank of the lake to Unterseen. -The views the most beautiful I ever saw; through -pines over precipices, torrents, and sleepers [?]<a id='r18' /><a href='#f18' class='c014'><sup>[18]</sup></a> and -the best-cultivated fields I ever saw. The lake sometimes -some hundred precipitous feet below my feet; at -other times quite close to its edge; boats coming from -the fair; picturesque towered villages; fine Alps on -the other side, the Jungfrau and others far off. The -bottom of the lake is especially magnificent. Lost -my way, and had two little children as guides back -again. One small cascade of seven or eight fountains.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Arrived at 7 at Unterseen: through Nilterfingen, -Oberhofen, Rottingen, Morlangen, Neuchaus, to -Unterseen. Found two Englishmen at supper: sat -down with them. Very miserable all the morning.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 21.</i>—Got up at 6, having determined to -go with the two to the Grindenwald in a <i>char-à-banc</i>, -on account of the state of my foot. I went to the -bridge at Interlachen to see the view coming -between two beautiful isolated crags. Going, met -a man, a maréchal, who had been to Vienna and -Bohemia <i>en roulant</i> after his apprenticeship, to see -the world—stopping a day at one place, a day at -another. Returned, breakfasted: and then, after -<a id='Page_157'></a>growling at the innkeeper's wishing us to take two -horses, we went off through splendid pine-clad craggy -valleys through Zweihitschirne to Lauterbrunner; -whence to the fall of the Staubach, a bare cataract -of 900 feet high, becoming vapour before it arrives—appearing -much, and ending in a little stream. The -curate of this village receives guests: there were the -Prince Saxe-Gotha and family. We lunched at the -inn, and went back to Lauterbrunner after having -looked at the Jungfrau at a distance.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went from Zweihitschirne to the Grindenwald -with the Saxe-Gotha before us, through a more -beautiful valley. Saw the glaciers come into it, -with the Eiger, Wetterhorn, and other mountains, -most magnificent. Walking about, found two girls -who gave us cherries and chatted freely. Found -that mules were 18 francs a day. A party came -in in the dark at 8 with guides, hallooing and making -a lively sound. Dined at 7, and talked about mules, -hoping to get return ones etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 22.</i>—Got up. Could not get mules under -18 francs: my foot too bad to walk. Went with -Captain Rice and others back to Interlachen. Got -into a boat rowed by two men and a boy. Went -by Brientz, Calne, to the Griesbach cascade, and -then to Brientz—wilder, but not so beautiful as the -Lake of Thun. The cascade I did not mount to see -<a id='Page_158'></a>on account of my foot. At Brientz an old woman -would give us her presence and conversation till one -of my companions courted the daughter. Met between -Grindenwald and Interlachen L[ord] B[yron] -and Mr. H[obhouse]: we saluted.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 23.</i>—Got up at 4. Tired of my company; -and, finding the expense more than I could afford, I -went to their bedrooms to wish them good-bye. Set -off at 5-1/2; and through fine copse-wooded crags, -along the Aar, with cascades on every side, to -Meyringen; where I breakfasted with two Germans, -an old and a young artist—the old, chatty. Bought -a pole. Went to see the Reichenbach, a fine cascade -indeed. Thence through the beautiful vale of Nach-im-Grunden, -where for a moment I planned a -sovereignty; but, walking on, my plans faded before -I arrived at Guttannen, where I dined.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Rode all the way to-day—horrible, only passable -for men and mules: it is the way to St. Gothard. -The road is merely huge unequal masses of granite -thrown in a line not the straightest. From Guttannen -the road went through the wildest and most sublime -scenery I ever read of: vegetation less and less, so -that, instead of grass, there was moss; then nothing. -Instead of trees, shrubs; then nothing—huge granite -rocks leaving hardly room for the road and river. -The river's bed the most magnificent imaginable, cut -<a id='Page_159'></a>deep and narrow into the solid rock, sinuous, and -continually accompanied by cascades, and amazing -bold and high single-arched bridges. Snow covering -in some parts the whole bed of the river, and so thick -and strong that even huge stones have fallen without -injuring its crust. There are only two houses between -Guttannen and the Hospital: one, a chalet wherein -I entered; the other, a cow-herd's. Arrived at 6 -o'clock precisely, having walked in only 9-1/2 hours 30 -miles at least.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This is a little indistinct in connexion with what -precedes. I suppose that the phrase "rode all the -way to-day" must be understood as meaning "all -the way up to Guttannen"; and that, after leaving -Guttannen, there were 30 miles of walking before the -Hospital was reached. Yet this seems an unreasonably -heavy day's work in travelling. After "only -9-1/2" the initial written is "m": but I presume it -ought to be "h" (hours).]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The Hospital is an old stone ugly building, consonant -with the wild scene, where the poor are lodged -for nothing; others, us, [as?] an inn.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 24.</i>—On account of rain did not get up -till 7. Set off across the Grimsel, a dreary mountain -with snow in every hollow—5000 feet above the -Four-canton Lake. Descended on the other side to -Obergustellen, where I breakfasted at 10. Thence -<a id='Page_160'></a>through Verlican, Guesquerman, Munster, Rexingen, -Biel, Blizzen; where, out of the dead flat valley, I -began to mount, and the scenery began to increase -in beauty. One bridge especially over the Rhone, -which fell between two clefts' sides, was beautiful. -Sinderwald, Viesch, pine-wood; sax (?) along the -rocks, and fine path along the mountain. Very fine, -though continued hard rain, which drenched me and -hindered my seeing a great deal. To Morel, where I -went to bed, and ate a kind of dinner in bed at 7 o'clock.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 25.</i>—Up at 5; my foot, from having -been obliged to walk with the shoe down at heel, -very much swelled and too painful to walk. Breakfast. -Two students from Brieg, of the Jesuits' -College, came in, who had during the vacations been -beyond Constance with only two <i>écus neufs</i> in their -pockets. It costs them ten batsches a year at -College. Impudent one: the other modest-looking, -but, when I gave him six francs because he had no -more money, he asked me for more on other accounts. -The Jesuits been restored two years.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Brieg<a id='r19' /><a href='#f19' class='c014'><sup>[19]</sup></a> I sent for the curate, a good old man -of sixty. We conversed together in Latin for two -hours; not at all troublesome in enquiries, but kind -in answering them. The Valaisians resisted two -<a id='Page_161'></a>years against the French in 93. It was the only -part of the country in which they did so, except -Unterwalden, and then it was only the peasants, and -in every village there was a French party. The -cruelty of the French was dreadful; they stuck their -prisoners in a variety of ways like sheep. One old -man of eighty, who had never left his house but -whom they found eating, they strangled, and then -put meat and bottles by him as if he had died -apoplectic. They fought very hard and bravely, but -such was the power of numbers united to the force -of treachery that they were obliged to yield. In -1813, after the French had quitted Brieg, they again -attempted to penetrate from Italy by the Simplon; -when the Brieg, Kelor [?], and other villagers, joined -by only one company of Austrians, surrounded them -in the night, and took them prisoners. In Schwytz [?] -and Unterwalden the division was more strongly -marked. In Unterwalden (where was the scene) the -men [?] divided and fought against each other, some -joining the French from Stanz [?] to Engelberg. -They were for freedom, and fought as the cause -deserved. They killed 5000 French, more than double -their own number; women fought; they were in -all 2100 Swiss. One maid in the ranks, when her -comrades were obliged to retreat, seeing a cannon -yet unfired, went with a rope-end and fired it, killing -<a id='Page_162'></a>thirty [?] French. She was taken; a pardon was -offered. She said, "I do not acknowledge any -pardon; my action is not pardonable; a thief [one?] -pardons, not a just man." They killed her with -swords. The hundred men who came from the -higher part of Schwytz, attempting to go to their -relief, were through their own countrymen forced to -cut their way and march by night; and, when in -retreating they came to the other shore of Lucerne -Lake, they had again to cut through their own -countrymen to arrive at their homes, they refusing -them permission to pass. The Austrians, for the help -the higher Valaisians gave them, from sovereigns -have made them subjects to the lower Valaisians. -The curate came in again, with a description of the -Simplon; sat an hour and a half, then left the book. -When [he was] not here I have written the part of -my Journal I missed at the time, and the extract -from his book. He came in again about 6 with a -basket of prunes for me, and offered to go with me -half-way, as he had to go to a church on the way.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 26.</i>—Got up at 5. The curate came, -and, my foot being better, I set off. He showed me -the bridge over the Massa where was a battle, and -the ruins of a tyrant's tower. We came to his church, -where he showed me the miraculous figure that was -found in the Rhone. He told me the lower Valaisians -<a id='Page_163'></a>were ready to join the French in '13, and that, in -spite of this, they [the Austrians?] had given them a -majority of voices. Left me in sight of Brieg, telling -me he hoped to see me again in heaven. I walked -on to Brieg; breakfasted, and then set off along the -Simplon, a magnificent road indeed. It is cut in -many places through the rocks, in others built up -to its side. It has caverns and bridges always wide -enough for four carriages; it ascends all the way to -the new Hospice, and again descends from it. At its -side are houses of refuge (as they are called) where -many are kept by government, with privilege of -selling food to help the passers-by. There is in each -a room with a bed where one can go in case of rain, -accident, etc.; and, when the time for avalanches etc., -these men are obliged to accompany the travellers -from house to house. Just where the rising ends the -new Hospital was to have been erected, and is half -done, but stopped now. A little farther on is the old -one; whither I went, and got a dinner in the cell of -one of the monks; bread, wine, cold meat, and nuts. -He seemed very <i>ennuyé</i>; his words slowly fell; said -they were St. Augustines, not St. Bernardites. That -St. Bernard was a mere reformer of the order. They -have been here since 1810 only, in an old castle for -which they pay £20 a year. The Simplon was a -department of France, and rather well off on account -<a id='Page_164'></a>of the quantity of work and money, and not having the -<i>droits</i> revenues. The Archduke Regnier was there a -few days ago incog., and they did not recognize him—which -mortified them very much. It is six leagues -hither from Brieg, so that I had walked twenty-six -miles.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I set off at 2: passed through Sempeln[?], and -through the most magnificent scenery, through the -granite galleries. The Italian part is by far the -most difficult and splendid. The first boy that I -met before coming to Isella, in answer to a question -in German, answered "Non capisco";<a id='r20' /><a href='#f20' class='c014'><sup>[20]</sup></a> I could have -hugged. I arrived after much difficulty at Isella, -knocked up. I was ruined in my feet, and it was not -till near here that the carriages which parted in the -morning from Brieg overtook me. Went to bed -immediately in a room where the grease might be -scraped from the floor.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 27.</i>—Did not get up till 1 on account -of fatigue. Breakfasted most miserably, everything -being bad; and then set off, but immensely slowly -till a cart overtook me. Entered; lay upon the logs -of wood and hay, and was driven to Domo d'Ossola. -Is it imagination only that I find the sky finer, -the country where cultivated extremely rich, green-looking? -The dress of the women picturesque, blue -<a id='Page_165'></a>with red stripes here and there; the men more acute -and quicker-eyed. Arrived at Domo d'Ossola at 3; -got into a clean though poor inn, and dined well. -A gendarme came in to ask how it was that my -passport had not been viséd yet; and then, seeing I -was a physician, requested a cure for his toothache. -It is useless to describe the picturesque: the best -page to turn to for it is the memory. After one of -the most comfortable fireside-evenings I have had -since I left Geneva I went to bed at 7-1/2.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 28.</i>—Set off at 6 o'clock through vine-country, -with little hills here and there starting out -of the low Alps, highly cultivated, with beautiful -little white villas at their tops and sides. Asked a -woman what was a house whereon was painted -a Democritus, Diogenes, etc. Answered, "È roba -antica"<a id='r21' /><a href='#f21' class='c014'><sup>[21]</sup></a>—though evidently modern, but deserted. -Indeed, the whole of the houses seem too large for -the inhabitants—much falling to ruin. From Domo -d'Ossola went to Vella; to Vagagna, where I breakfasted -and saw the first good-looking Italian girl. -The children are pretty, the women quite otherwise. -There began to suffer from my feet so much as that -to go about six more miles took me five hours. No -car passed me, or anything.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_166'></a>I arrived at last at Ornavasco. Could get no car, -though they kept me half-an-hour in the yard -standing, in hopes of getting one. At last agreed -with a man that he should set off at 4 o'clock -to-morrow to Fariolo for 4 francs. Looked at a -bedroom: shrugged up my shoulders, but forced. -Dinner: no meat, because "meagre." Ate the fruit. -The Italian grapes, nectarines, peaches, and pears, I -got yesterday, excellent. Two bunches of grapes -half-a-franc: two at dinner.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>Sunday, September 29.</i>—Up at 5. Got into the -char, or rather cart. Passed through Gravellino to -Fariolo. Asked 10 francs to take me to Laveno: -offered 4—accepted. Got into the boat. Rowed -towards Isola Madre; passed Isola Pescatori; and -landed on Isola Bella.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went over the palace. Many of the floors miserable -on account of their being the mere rock. Some good -pictures. A whole set of rooms below in the style -of grottoes, with windows looking on to beautiful -views, close to the lake for <i>il fresco</i>. Looked at the -terrace: not pleasing the style: and, thinking I -should see it all in going round, did not go over -the gardens. Went round the island in the boat; -magnificently paved, like terrace on terrace.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Thence towards Laveno, intending to go to Lugano -and Como; but, hearing that I could go all the way -by water to Milan, I preferred this, and accordingly -<a id='Page_167'></a>turned round towards Belgirato. Breakfasted on -<i>caffè al latte</i>, <i>uve</i>, <i>and fichi</i>,<a id='r22' /><a href='#f22' class='c014'><sup>[22]</sup></a> 4-1/2 francs. Boatman -proposed my joining a party to Sestri-Calende, which -I did. Arona, with the colossus, on my left, Anghera -on my right; Monte Rosa; all the bottom part of -the lake richly magnificent.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The colossus is the celebrated gigantic statue of -San Carlo Borromeo.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Arrived at an inn—taken for a servant. After -some time things got round, when in came two -soldiers with swords by their sides, to desire me to -step to the police-inspector. I did, and found he -could not read the writing in my passport. The -boatman came soon after, offering me a plan for -to-morrow for five francs, and showing me twelve -naps. they got for the boat—which cost only seventy -francs. Agreed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>September 30.</i>—Up at 5. Off at 6 in a large barge, -with yesterday's English party and two carriages, by -the Tessino and canal to Milan: at first through a -fine hilly country, and rapidly by the Tessino flood. -After, slower, and through a flat plain with trees and -neat villas and hanging grapes, to Milan. Slept out -of the town by the canal.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 1.</i>—Up at 7.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Polidori blunderingly calls this "September 31": -<a id='Page_168'></a>he also calls the day a Monday, but October 1, 1816, -was a Tuesday. For the next following day he -rightly writes "October 2."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>The boatman came as I had desired, to guide -me. Entered Milan by a fine gate with a kind of -triumphal arch. The streets are clean but narrow—fine -houses. There are two strips of pavement for -wheels, and often two for pedestrians. Passed by -Santa Maria—fine, all white marble, with many fine -statues on the outside. Many palaces. A bad taste -shown in plastering the columns and corner-stones -of a lighter colour than the body.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Got a letter from Brelaz; well written in composition -and in letters, but badly spelled. Got my trunk, after -some difficulty, passed. The diligence-keepers asked -if they could direct me to rooms: showed two where -a man was at that moment going. Got them for 40 -lire il mese; a bedroom and sitting-room, second -storey, Contrado San Spirito. Sent to the custom-house. -Made the men wait—sent them away for two -hours, again away for one. More stoppages, and, in -centimes, 3 francs to pay. They would not at first let -it (the trunk) go because it was the last day of the -month.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Did they share Polidori's blunder that the day -was September 31?]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to dine at a restaurateur's: 1-1/2-franc dinner. -<a id='Page_169'></a>Afterwards put my things into a little order, dressed, -and went strolling towards Teatro della Scala. -Entered, two hours before beginning, alone. Immense -theatre: six rows of boxes, with, I think, -thirty-six in a row. <i>La Testa di Bronzo</i>, a ballet, -and a comic ballet: the ballet the most magnificent -thing I ever saw—splendid indeed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 2.</i>—Got up at 8. Breakfasted on grapes, -bread and butter, wine, and figs. Wrote to Lord -Byron. Dressed. Went to Marchese Lapone—out -of town; Monsignor Brema—not at home. Walked -about looking at booksellers' shops. Entered the -Duomo—invisible almost, so black and dark. They -were putting up drapery for Friday, which is the -Emperor's birthday (probably the same as for -Napoleon). Returned home, arranged my papers. -Took a walk on the Corso; then to the Teatro Rè. -The same price for all the places. The piece <i>Il -Sogno di Ariosto</i> [Dream of Ariosto], where Fortune, -Merit, Orgoglio, with Mrs. Disinganno,<a id='r23' /><a href='#f23' class='c014'><sup>[23]</sup></a> were all -personified. The dialogue abounded in truths, especially -regarding women, which they applauded. -The theatre is very small, like the Haymarket. -Home to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 3.</i>—Up at 8. Went to a circulating library: -read Denina, <i>Vicende</i>, all the part on Italy and -<a id='Page_170'></a>preface. To the Teatro Scelto di Milano. Enquired -about Andricini etc. for my father—not found.</p> - -<p class='c006'>["Andricini" is clearly written in the transcript -before me. I am not aware that there is any such -Italian author as Andricini, and apprehend that the -name ought to be Andreini. This author wrote, early -in the seventeenth century, a dramatic poem entitled -<i>Adamo</i>, which was indisputably present to Milton's -mind when he was writing <i>Paradise Lost</i>. Dr. Polidori's -father, who translated Milton, was probably -interested in this work of Andreini.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to the Teatro Rè;<a id='r24' /><a href='#f24' class='c014'><sup>[24]</sup></a> a play of English people -in which they kiss the hand, and make more bows -than were ever made in a century in England. There -were German soldiers in English uniforms present. -Home, to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 4.</i>—Up at 8—breakfasted. Went to call -on Monsignore Brême—found him. Received me -with two kisses and great apparent joy. About to -learn English: I promised my help. Walked with -me, and invited me to his box.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Lord Byron, in two of his letters, October and -November 1816, remarks regarding Milan: "The -society is very oddly carried on—at the theatre, and -the theatre only, which answers to our opera. People -<a id='Page_171'></a>meet there as at a rout, but in very small circles.... -They have private boxes, where they play at cards, -or talk, or anything else; but, except at the cassino, -there are no open houses or balls etc. etc."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Left him—came home. Read Denina's <i>Ultime -Vicende</i>, a poor book. Went to Guyler. Met Caravella—walked -with him. Went to dine: where I met -his brother, who told me the physician at Florence -was dead, and promised to come and take me to the -hospital. Met after dinner Abate Berlezi the Crabule.<a id='r25' /><a href='#f25' class='c014'><sup>[25]</sup></a> -Came home. Read the <i>Calandra</i> of Bibiena, and -<i>Sofonisba</i> of Trissino. Took an ice, and went to -La Scala. Feast of St. Francis, the Emperor's. When -the Dukes went this morning to mass at the Duomo -not a hat moved, not a voice of applause: however, -when Regnier entered, there was a slight clapping -of hands. The theatre was lighted up like an English -one, and was magnificent, but showed what the Italians -allege—that the scene does not improve by it, but the -contrary.</p> - -<p class='c006'>In Brema's loge there were Monti, Brema's brother, -and others. Monti a short man, round face, quick -eye; pleasant in conversation, not haughty, modest, -unassuming; seemed to take great pleasure in parts -of the music and in the dancing.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It will be understood that this is the celebrated -<a id='Page_172'></a>Vincenzo Monti, the poet who was at one time -acclaimed as the legitimate successor of Dante in -virtue of his poem <i>La Basvigliana</i>, upon a personage -of the French Revolution. In 1816 Monti was sixty-two -years of age: he died in 1828. Though sufficiently -Italian in his tone of mind and sentiment, he was not -a consistent Italian patriot, but was eminently susceptible -of inflation by a series of conflicting winds—anti-revolution, -revolution, Napoleonism, and even -Austrianism. Not indeed that he was sordidly self-interested -in his various gyrations. As Dr. Richard -Garnett has said: "He was no interpreter of his age, -but a faithful mirror of its successive phases, and -endowed with the rare gift of sublimity to a degree -scarcely equalled by any contemporary except Goethe, -Byron, and Shelley."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Brema related that a friend of his, Porro, asked for -a passport to Rome: refused, and asked for documents -to prove his business. Gave what proved he -had business at Maurata and relatives at Rome. -Refused. Went to Swarrow, who told him he could -not give it. Porro said: "Why do the Austrians -think the Italians are always making conspiracies?" -Swarrow said that they did not know, but, now that -they had the upper hand, they cared not; and at last -that, if Porro would give his word of honour not to -visit any of the foreign embassies, he should have -<a id='Page_173'></a>a passport. He had it. Porro was not a revolutionist -but had always been against Napoleon, and had -belonged to a legislative body by him dissolved on -account of obstinacy. Brema and others accompanied -me as far as the door, and I went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[It appears in the sequel that there were two -Austrian governors in Milan at this period—Swarrow -and Bubna—one for civil and the other for military -affairs.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>From that day I neglected my Journal till this day,</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 8.</i>—My residence at Milan lasted till -October 30. During that time I had a most happy -and pleasant life, Monsignor de Brême taking great -friendship for me. My friends and acquaintance -were Brême, Borsieri, Guasco, Cavalier Brême, Beyle, -Negri, Byron, Hobhouse, Finch, Caravellas, Locatelli, -Monti, Monti's son-in-law, Lord Cowper, Lord Jersey, -etc.; Lloyd, Lee, Wotheron.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[Beyle was the great romance-writer best known -as De Stendhal. In 1816 he was aged thirty-three, -and had published only one book, entitled <i>Lettres -écrites de Vienne sur Haydn, suivies d'une Vie de -Mozart, etc.</i> He had seen some service under -Napoleon, in Russia and elsewhere. His passionate -admiration of the now dethroned Emperor induced -him to retire from France towards 1814, and he -resided in Milan up to 1821. He died in Paris in -<a id='Page_174'></a>1842.—Hobhouse had rejoined Byron in mid-September, -and they had continued together since -then.—Colonel Finch was the person through whom -Shelley, in 1821, heard of the death of John Keats.—The -Lord Cowper living in 1816 was the fifth Earl, -born in 1778, and was married to a daughter of the -first Viscount Melbourne.—The Earl of Jersey, born -in 1773, was married to a daughter of the Earl of -Westmorland.—Mr. Wotheron is spoken of later -on under the name "Werthern." Neither of these -surnames has a very English aspect, and I cannot -say which is correct.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>De Brême and I became very intimate, and I believe -he is really a good friend. In the morning at 10 -o'clock I went to him to help him in English, and -towards the end he corrected my Italian translation -of <i>Count Orlando</i>.<a id='r26' /><a href='#f26' class='c014'><sup>[26]</sup></a> We afterwards met at his box -every night in the theatre of La Scala. He gave a -dinner to Lord Byron, at which were a good many -or rather all my acquaintances—Monti, Finch, Hobhouse, -two Brêmes, Borsieri, Guasco (translator of -Sophocles), Negri (author of <i>Francesca of Rimini</i>, a -play). The dinner was very elegant, and we were -very merry, talking chiefly of literature, Castlereagh, -Burghersh, etc. We got up immediately after dinner, -and went to coffee; thence most to the theatre. De -<a id='Page_175'></a>Brême was Vicar Almoner under the French Government. -A priest came to him to ask leave to confess; -Brême, knowing the subject, refused. The Princess -was put to move Beauharnais, who sent for Brême -and in a very angry mood asked him why he had -refused leave. B[rême] said that, as he was placed -to give leave, he imagined it was that it might not be -granted indiscriminately, that he could not in his -conscience give it, but that he was not the chief, -and the Almoner, being applied to, might grant it. -B[eauharnais] asked why, saying that the Princess -wished it, and it must be done. De B[rême] said he -had undertaken the office under the idea that his -conscience was to be his guide; if not, the office -should be immediately vacant; that he put it to -Beauharnais himself whether a man who was buried -in the vilest dissoluteness was a proper person to be -entrusted with the care of young women's minds. -Beauharnais said, "Right, right; you shall hear no -more of it." This, and another occasion of the same -nature, were the only occasions in which he saw -Beauharnais privately; he avoided the court, and did -not seek preferment. He twice under that government -refused a bishopric, and under the new government; -giving me as a reason that it went against -his conscience to inculcate what he did not believe, -and to add power to those who gave them, as he -<a id='Page_176'></a>would be expected to side with them. He is -violently for the independence of Italy. Christianity -he believes not, and gives (I think) a new argument -why we should not be holden to believe it. Saul, who -was contemporary, who beheld the miracles etc., did -not believe till a miracle was operated upon <i>him</i>; -we at this distance cannot believe with greater facility. -He has published an eulogium of Caluro, <i>Ingiustizia -del Giudizio, etc.</i>, poems, etc. Has written several -tragedies; <i>Ina</i> made me weep like a child. He is -warm in his affections, and has never recovered the -death of one he loved—a young noble lady, of great -accomplishments and beauty. His friendship for me -was warm: it gratifies me more than any attentions, -friendship, or any relation I had before, with my -fellow-companions. I cannot express what I feel for -him. When parting from him, I wept like a child -in his arms. He maintains from principle, not from -belief, all the hardships imposed upon him by his -tonsure. He would have the world to see that his -belief is not swayed by a wish to escape from the -bonds of the clerical state. He is charitable, giving -away great sums of money in charity; eats only once -a day, and studies all day till the hour of the theatre; -kind to all who are recommended to him; sacrificing -whole days to show them what he has seen a -thousand times; a great admirer of English women; -<a id='Page_177'></a>has an excellent library, of which I had the use. A -great friend of comic, good-natured mimicry. Has -an idea of writing <i>Ida</i>, a novel containing a picture -of the most promising movements of the Milan -revolution, and I have promised to translate it. He -has two brothers; his father lives yet; his eldest -brother is Ambassador at Munich. The youngest -is Cavalier Brême—been officer in Spain; extremely -pleasant and affectionate with me. Brême was a -great friend of Caluro's, and to him Caluro dedicated -one of his opuscules.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Borsieri, a man of great mental digestive power -and memory, superficially read; author of <i>Il Giorno</i>, -a work written with great grace and lightness. He -was very intimate with me, Guasco, and Brême. -Guasco, a Piedmontese; little reading, but great -mental vision and talents. He also was one who -attached himself a good deal to me. De Beyle, -formerly Intendant des Marchés (I think) to Buonaparte, -and his secretary when in the country. A fat -lascivious man. A great deal of anecdote about -Buonaparte: calls him an <i>inimitable et bon despote</i>. -He related many anecdotes—I don't remember -them: amongst other things, he said Buonaparte -despised the Italians much.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This last detail is confirmed in Beyle's <i>Reminiscences -of Napoleon</i>, published not long ago.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_178'></a>These four were the usual attendants at De -Brême's box.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Monti is a short, roundish, quick-eyed, and rather -rascally-faced man, affable, easily fired; talks rather -nonsense when off poetry, and even upon that not -good. Great imagination; very weak. Republican -always in conversation with us; but in the first -month, after having declaimed strongly in B[rême']s -box about liberty and Germans, just as they were -going out he said, "But now let us talk no more of -this, on account of my pension." Under the French -government he gained a great deal by his various -offices; by this one he has been abridged of half. -He translated the <i>Iliad</i> of Homer without knowing -a word of Greek; he had it translated by his friends, -word for word written under the Greek. Easily -influenced by the opinions of others; in fact, a complete -weathercock. He married the daughter of -Pickler, the engraver; a fine woman, and they say -an exceedingly good reciter, as he is himself. She -has acted in his plays upon the Philodramatic stage. -His daughter is married.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_179'></a>Negri—Marchese Negri<a id='r27' /><a href='#f27' class='c014'><sup>[27]</sup></a>—a Genoese, not an -improvisatore—very chatty; has at Genoa a most -beautiful garden which all the English visit. Related -to me Gianni's beginning. Gianni was an apprentice -to a stay-maker, when one day an Abate, going -into the shop, found him busily engaged in reading. -Looking at the book, he asked him if he understood -it. He said yes, and, on reading, showed it by his -expression. The Abate, who was an improvisatore, -asked him to see him next morning; when he -improvised before him, and observed that the young -Gianni seemed as if his mind was full and wished -to give forth. He had him sent to school, and introduced -him. Gianni in the Revolution, taking the -Liberal side, was obliged to leave Rome, and, going -to Genoa, Negri heard by letter of it, and went to -seek him, inviting him to dine with him. He refused; -and Negri, who had promised his friends that he -would be of the party, at the hour of dinner went -and found him with his nightcap on, deeply reading -his favourite Dante; and in a manner dragged him -by force to his house, where Gianni pleased much—and -stayed a year at Negri's house, teaching him the -art of improvisation. Gianni's improvisations were -(many) improvised on the spot by an Abate into -Latin verse.—Negri came to Brême's box several -times, and had the effect of making all except -Brême burst with laughter: me he sent to sleep.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_180'></a>Lord Byron came to Milan, and I saw him there -a good deal. He received me kindly, and corrected -the English of my essay in <i>The Pamphleteer</i>.<a id='r28' /><a href='#f28' class='c014'><sup>[28]</sup></a> He -visited a good deal Brême's box. Mr. Hobhouse -was with him.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Colonel Finch, an extremely pleasant, good-natured, -well-informed, clever gentleman; spoke Italian extremely -well, and was very well read in Italian -literature. A ward of his gave a masquerade in -London upon her<a id='r29' /><a href='#f29' class='c014'><sup>[29]</sup></a> coming of age. She gave to -each a character in the reign of Queen Elizabeth -to support, without the knowledge of each other, -and received them in a saloon in proper style as -Queen Elizabeth. He mentioned to me that Nelli -had written a Life of Galileo extremely fair, which, -if he had money by him, he would buy that it -might be published,—in Italy they dare not; and -that Galileo's MSS. were in dispute, so that the -heirs will not part with them; they contain some -new and some various readings. Finch is a great -admirer of architecture and Italy.—Wotheron, Mr., -a gentleman most peaceable and quiet I ever saw, -accompanying Finch; whose only occupation is, -when he arrives at a town or other place, to set -about sketching and then colouring, so that he has -perhaps the most complete collection of sketches -<a id='Page_181'></a>of his tour possible. He invited me (taking me -for an Italian), in case I went to England, to see -him; and, hearing I was English, he pressed me -much more.—Locatelli was the physician of the -hospital, a good unimpostoring physician. I saw -under him a case of pemphizus, and had under my -care an hysterical woman.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Jersey, Lady, promised to enquire of her mother, -Lady Westmorland, if she would employ me as -her physician; but said she thought my having been -with Lord B[yron] a great objection.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[I have an impression, not a secure one, that Dr. -Polidori did act to some extent as Lady Westmorland's -medical adviser. It would here appear that -her Ladyship was not very partial to Byron; and -Byron must have repaid her dislike, for I find, in a -letter of his to Murray, November 1817, that Polidori -was in the way of receiving "the patronage of Frederic -North, the most illustrious humbug of his age and -country, and the blessing of Lady Westmorland, -William Ward's mad woman." Joseph Severn the -painter (Keats's friend), who saw a good deal of Lady -Westmorland at one time, terms her "this impulsive, -arrogant, dictatorial, but witty and brilliant woman."]</p> - -<p class='c006'>Lloyd;—as I was moving in the pit, found him, and -never saw a person so glad in my life. He offered -me half of the money he had at his banker's, as he -thought I must be much embarrassed. Told me -<a id='Page_182'></a>Brelaz and Bertolini seemed to be together, and that -the man seemed worked off his legs.</p> - -<p class='c006'>My life at Milan was very methodical. I got up, -went to the hospital, breakfasted, came home, studied, -dined, and then at 7 went to the theatre. Between -breakfast and study went to de Brême to help him -in English. It was proposed too, by him, to teach -English, which I had intended to do.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I saw only the dome under which is the chapel of -St. Borromeo—very rich in silver, crystal, and jewels. -The body is vested in pontificals, and quite dry. The -orbits seem only filled with a little heap of black -dirt, and the skull etc. is black. There is here the -gnometer of Cassini. They preserve here a nail of -the cross of Christ.—St. Ambrose, the ancient Cathedral. -It was at the gates of this that Theodosius was -refused entrance.—The Brera library; and the Ambrosian, -where I saw the Virgil with marginal notes -of Petrarch; some of the pieces of MSS. of the -Plautus and Terence, fragments edited by Mai.—Some -of the paintings there are beautiful. The -Milanese Raphael has some heads expressing such -mild heavenly meekness as is scarcely imagined.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This Raphael is, as many readers will know, the -<i>Sposalizio</i>, or Espousal of the Virgin Mary and -Joseph. Being an early work by the master, it -exhibits, in its "mild heavenly meekness," more of -<a id='Page_183'></a>the style of Perugino than of that which became -distinctive of Raphael in his maturity.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>When at Milan, I spent almost all my money in -books, buying nearly 300 volumes, not being able to -resist that thirst for printed sheets, many of which I -never shall read.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Swarrow, the Governor of Milan, when the -Emperor was there, accompanying him to the theatre, -saw that one poor man in the pit, leaning against a -box, had dared to keep his hat on. Violently -enraged, he enters the box, without leave or saying -a word; and, leaning over the box with all his orders -dangling at his breast, applies two hearty slaps to the -poor man's cheeks, and then, rising majestically, -leaves the box, and goes to receive the despot's -smile. This making a great hubbub, and exciting a -great deal of ridicule against the noble police-officer, -he insisted with the police-director that not a word -more should be allowed to be said.</p> - -<p class='c006'>When at Milan, there came Sgricci, a Tuscan, -under the patronage of Monti, who puffed him most -egregiously, especially his tragic <i>improvisati</i>. I -accompanied de Brême to Casa Crivelli, where I saw -Swarrow and a cardinal; a dried-up ganache[?] with -a face of malice that had dried up with the features of -the face, but still remained sketched there in pretty -forcible lines. The improvisator entered; yellow -<a id='Page_184'></a>boots with trousers, blue coat, and a Flemish collar to -his shirt. He began <i>The Loves of Psyche and Cupid</i>; -commonplace, unpoetic rhymes. <i>Coriolanus</i>, a tragedy; -such an abominable opiate that, in spite of -my pinching myself and Cavalier Brême rousing me -every minute, I found myself, when ended, roused by -the applause from a pleasant nap. Heard him again -at the theatre; terza rima; <i>The Grief of Mausolea</i>.<a id='r30' /><a href='#f30' class='c014'><sup>[30]</sup></a> -The only bearable parts were those about Aurora, -night, etc., which he had beforehand prepared, to -clap-in at convenience, from the <i>Gradus ad Parnassum</i>. -The tragedy being drawn out, first came <i>The Death of -Socrates</i>. He came forward, saying that, this subject -being undramatizable, he would, if the public insisted, -attempt it, but that he had rather another might be -drawn. <i>Montezuma</i> came out. "Oh," says he, "this -will touch your passions too much, and offend many -probably personally." The public here stoutly -hissed, and insisted he should proceed; he as stoutly -called on the boy to draw, which he did, and, there -coming forth <i>Eteocles and Polynices</i>, he was satisfied, -making <i>olla podrida scenica</i> of French ragouts, Italian -minestras, and Greek black soup. It was reported -that Monti's taking him up was by the persuasion of -his daughter. An epigram was written upon Sgricci, -as follows nearly—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c012'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><a id='Page_185'></a>"In questi tempi senza onore e merto</div> - <div class='line'>Lavora Sgricci in vano, ha un altro il serto."</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>[The translation of this couplet is—"In these times -without honour and merit Sgricci labours in vain—another -man wears the wreath." It will be seen that -the epigram, if such it can be considered, runs in -favour of Sgricci. He was a native of Arezzo, and, as -our text shows, a renowned improvisatore. I happen -to possess a printed tragedy of his, <i>Ettore</i>, which is -notified as having been improvised in the Teatro Carignano, -Turin, on June 13, 1823. Shelley in January -1821 attended one of Sgricci's improvisations, and was -deeply impressed by it as a wonderful effort, and even, -considered in itself, a fine poetic success. In 1869, -being entrusted with some MS. books by Shelley -through the courtesy of his son the late Baronet, I -read a tribute of some length which the great English -poet had paid to the Italian improvisatore: it has -not yet been published, and is included, I suppose, -among the Shelley MSS. bequeathed to the Bodleian -Library. The subject on which Shelley heard -Sgricci improvise was Hector (Ettore). One rather -suspects that the <i>Ettore</i> improvised in 1823 may have -been partly reminiscent of its predecessor in 1821. -The portrait of Sgricci, a man of some thirty-five -years of age, appears in the book which I possess: -it shows a costume of the fancy-kind that Polidori -<a id='Page_186'></a>speaks of. I have looked through the tragedy, and -do not concur in the tone of ridicule in which -Polidori indulges. An improvise can only be -criticized as an improvise, and this appears to me -a very fair specimen.—As I have had occasion here -to re-mention Shelley, I may as well add that Medwin -(<i>Life of Shelley</i>, vol. i, p. 250), says that the poet had -no animosity against Polidori, consequent upon any -past collisions: "Shelley I have often heard speak of -Polidori, but without any feeling of ill-will."]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_187'></a>Going one evening with L[ord] B[yron] and Mr. -H[obhouse] to B[rême]'s box, Mr. Hobhouse, Borsieri, -and myself, went into the pit, standing to look -at the ballet. An officer in a great-coat came and -placed himself completely before me with his grenadier's -hat on. I remarked it to my companions: -"Guarda a colui colla sua berretta in testa" (I believe -those were my words), waiting a few minutes to see if -he would move. I touched him, and said, "Vorrebbe -farmi la grazia di levarsi il cappello purch'io vegga?" -He turning said "Lo vorreste?" with a smile of -insult. I answered: "Sì, lo voglio."<a id='r31' /><a href='#f31' class='c014'><sup>[31]</sup></a> He then asked -me if I would go out with him. I, thinking he meant -for a duel, said, "Yes, with pleasure"; and called Mr. -Hobhouse to accompany me. He did. When passing -by the guard-house he said, "Go in, go in there"; -I said I would not, that it was not there I thought of -going with him. Then he swore in German, and drew -half his sabre with a threatening look, but Hobhouse -held his hand. The police on guard came, and he -delivered me to their custody. I entered the guard-house, -and he began declaiming about the insult to -one like him. I said I was his equal, and, being in -the theatre, to any one there. "Equal to me?" he -retorted; "you are not equal to the last of the -Austrian soldiers in the house"; and then began -abusing me in all the Billingsgate German he was -master of—which I did not know till afterwards. In -the meanwhile the news had spread in the theatre, and -reached de Brême and L[ord] Byron, who came running -down, and tried to get me away, but could not on -any plea. De Brême heard the secretary of police -say to the officer: "Don't you meddle with this, leave -it to me." De Brême said he would go to Bubna -immediately, and get an order for my dismission; on -which the officer took Lord Byron's card, as bail that -I would appear to answer for my conduct on the -morrow. Then I was released.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_188'></a>Next morning I received a printed order from -the police to attend. As soon as I saw the order -I went to De Brême, who accompanied me to the -gate. I entered.</p> - -<p class='c006'>"Where do you wish your passport viséd for?"</p> - -<p class='c006'>"I am not thinking of going."</p> - -<p class='c006'>"You must be off in four-and-twenty hours for -Florence."</p> - -<p class='c006'>"But I wish for more time."</p> - -<p class='c006'>"You must be off in that time, or you will have something -disagreeable happen to you."</p> - -<p class='c006'>Brême, upon hearing this, immediately set off to Bubna, and I -to Lord Byron, who sent Mr. Hobhouse in company -of Colonel McSomething to Swarrow to ask that I -might not be obliged to go. They went. Swarrow -received them with a pen in his hand; said it was -a bagatelle; that the Secretary of Police had been -there in the morning, and that he had told him of it. -That it was nothing, that I should find myself as well -off in any other city as there, and that, if I stayed, -something worse might happen. Hobhouse tried to -speak. S[warrow] advanced a foot; "Give my -compliments to Lord Byron; am sorry I was not at -home when he called." "But if this is so mere a -trifle ..."—"I hope Lord Byron is well"; advancing -another foot, and then little by little got them -so near the door that they saw it was useless, and -left him. De Brême in the meanwhile had been -to Bubna. Bubna received him very politely, and -said he had already seen Colonel M., who had explained -to him the whole; and that for the mistake -of speaking to the officer on guard he thought it -<a id='Page_189'></a>enough that I had been put under arrest. "I -am much obliged to you, and am glad then that -my friend will not have to leave Milan." "What do -you mean?" Brême explained. "It is impossible, -there must be some mistake, for I have had no -memorial of it. I will see Swarrow this evening -about it." De Brême mentioned with what idea I had -left the theatre. Bubna said that German soldiers -had one prejudice less; and at the theatre in the -evening I heard many instances of the officers of -the Austrian Army acting meanly in this respect. -Amongst others, Bubna's son, being challenged for -insulting a lady at a public ball, accepted the -challenge, but said there were several things he had -to settle first, and that he would appoint a day for the -following week. He left Milan the Saturday before. -A young Italian had a dispute with a Hussar officer, -and challenged him, for which he was brought before -the police and reprimanded. Some days after, the -officer, standing at a coffee-room door, asked him if -he wished to settle the affair with him. He said yes, -and they immediately entered. The officer spoke to -several of his companions in the room, and they all -struck the young man, and pushed him out. He -could get no redress.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This affair of Dr. Polidori's shindy in the theatre -excited some remark. His feelings in favour of Italy -and Italians were keen, as he was himself half Italian -<a id='Page_190'></a>by blood; and he was evidently not disinclined to -pick a quarrel with an Austrian military man. He -was indiscreet, and indeed wrong, in asking an -Austrian officer on guard to take off his cap; and, -although he addressed the officer at first in courteous -terms, his expression "Lo voglio" was not to be -brooked even by a civilian. Lord Byron mentioned -the matter in a letter to his sister, November 6, 1816, -as follows: "Dr. Polidori, whom I parted with before -I left Geneva (not for any great harm, but because he -was always in squabbles, and had no sort of conduct), -contrived at Milan, which he reached before me, to -get into a quarrel with an Austrian, and to be ordered -out of the city by the Government. I did not even -see his adventure, nor had anything to do with it, -except getting him out of arrest, and trying to get -him altogether out of the scrape." And on the same -day to Thomas Moore. "On arriving at Milan I -found this gentleman in very good society, where he -prospered for some weeks; but at length, in the -theatre, he quarrelled with an Austrian officer, and -was sent out by the Government in twenty-four hours. -I could not prevent his being sent off; which, indeed, -he partly deserved, being quite in the wrong, and -having begun a row for row's sake. He is not a bad -fellow, but young and hot-headed, and more likely to -incur diseases than to cure them." Beyle likewise -has left an account of the affair, translated thus. -<a id='Page_191'></a>"One evening, in the middle of a philosophical -argument on the principle of utility, Silvio Pellico, a -delightful poet, came in breathless haste to apprise -Lord Byron that his friend and physician Polidori -had been arrested. We instantly ran to the guard-house. -It turned out that Polidori had fancied himself -incommoded in the pit by the fur cap of the -officer on guard, and had requested him to take it -off, alleging that it impeded his view of the stage. -The poet Monti had accompanied us, and, to the -number of fifteen or twenty, we surrounded the -prisoner. Every one spoke at once. Polidori was -beside himself with passion, and his face red as a -burning coal. Byron, though he too was in a violent -rage, was on the contrary pale as ashes. His patrician -blood boiled as he reflected on the slight consideration -in which he was held. The Austrian officer ran from -the guard-house to call his men, who seized their -arms that had been piled on the outside. Monti's idea -was excellent: 'Sortiamo tutti—restino solamente -i titolati' (Let us all go out—only the men of title to -remain). De Brême remained, with the Marquis di -Sartirana, his brother, Count Confalonieri, and Lord -Byron. These gentlemen having written their names -and titles, the list was handed to the officer on guard, -who instantly forgot the insult offered to his fur cap, -and allowed Polidori to leave the guard-house. In -the evening, however, the Doctor received an order to -<a id='Page_192'></a>quit Milan within twenty-four hours. Foaming with -rage, he swore that he would one day return and -bestow manual castigation on the Governor who had -treated him with so little respect."—One other observation -of Beyle, regarding Polidori and Byron, may be -introduced here. "Polidori informed us that Byron -often composed a hundred verses in the course of the -morning. On his return from the theatre in the -evening, still under the charm of the music to which -he had listened, he would take up his papers, and -reduce his hundred verses to five-and-twenty or thirty. -He often sat up all night in the ardour of composition."—As -Polidori's passport is prominently mentioned -at this point of the Diary, I may add a few particulars -about it. It was granted on April 17, 1816, by the -Conte Ambrogio Cesare San Martino d'Aglia, -Minister of the King of Sardinia in London; and it -authorized Polidori to travel in Italy—no mention -being made of Switzerland, nor yet of Lord Byron. -The latest visa on the passport is at Pisa, for -going to Florence. This is signed "Il Governatore, -Viviani," whom we may safely assume to have been -a relative of Shelley's Emilia. The date of this final -visa is February 17, 1817.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 30.</i>—Got up early next morning, packed up -my books and things; then went to seek for a coach -that was parting for Lodi. Found one, and fixed that -<a id='Page_193'></a>a vetturino, who was going to set off next day for -Florence, should take me up at Lodi. Went to see -de Brême. He told me he had been to Bubna's, but -that he had found him out at a council of war, and -that he had left an order none should follow him. I -took leave of de Brême, and wept in his arms like a -child, for his kindness and friendship had been dear -to me. I took leave of L[ord] B[yron], H[obhouse], -and Guasco. The last offered me his services in any -way, and said he should take it as a favour the oftener -he was applied to. I got into the coach with only -5 louis in my pocket, leaving my books in the care -of de Brême, and left Milan with rage and grief so -struggling in my breast that tears often started in my -eyes, and all I could think of was revenge against -Swarrow and the officer in particular, and a hope that -before I left Italy there might be a rising to which I -might join myself. I arrived at Lodi; wrote to Lloyd -to ask him to lend me some money, and went to bed -exhausted.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>October 31.</i>—Up at 9: breakfasted. Went to see -the Duomo and other churches without feeling interest; -the hospital, which is a magnificent building. -Returning to the inn, I met the vetturino. I found -in the coach a Prussian student of Heidelberg who -had made the campaigns of '13 and '14 with the -rest of his companions, and who was banished -<a id='Page_194'></a>Heidelberg for slapping a Russian in the face. -Growled against his king for not keeping his promise; -hated the French, and gave me an interesting account -of the way of spending the winter evenings in his part -of Germany, Pomerania; the young working at some -pursuit of hand, the old relating their tale of youth. -A Milanese woman and son. We went that evening -to Casal Panterlungo. Supped and went to bed, I -and the Prussian in the same room.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 2.</i>—Up at 4. Across the Taro to Parma. -Went, in spite of my having so little money, in search -of books—Boccaccio's <i>Fiammetta</i>. The Cathedral -and Baptistery. From Parma to Reggio, a beautiful -town with fine palaces and porticoes, though, on -account of the few inhabitants, appearing a huge -sepulchre. To Rubiera: supped and slept.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 3.</i>—Up at 4. Through Modena, where -I saw the Duomo, and the Tower which contains the -Lecchia porticoes—palaces of the Duke—four orders -heaped one on the other. Here they examined my -box, and were going to send it to the dogana on -account of books; when, upon my saying I was a -physician, they let them pass.</p> - -<p class='c006'>At Bologna supped with the Prussian. To the -opera. Saw a ballet, extremely ridiculous: barbarian -dances with astonishing powers of limbs forming in -the air [postures] out and in on their feet.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_195'></a><i>November 4.</i>—Up at 9. Went to see the churches -and (a) private gallery. After dinner roamed about -the town in a most melancholy mood, entering the -churches and sitting in the dark for an hour, etc. -Went to the Theatre of Cento Cavalli: beautiful -Greek architecture. To bed—a play.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 5.</i>—At 10, expecting to have been called -before, the vetturino came, saying he would not go, -since I had hindered the Prussian from setting off on -Monday, without security; and that he would go to -the police to gain it from the Prussian that he should -be paid at Florence. After a good deal of disputing -I gave it, in a promissory note that I would pay if -he could not. Found afterwards it was only to get -time.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to see the churches, the public place, San -Prospero, the Neptune. After dinner to Madonna -Santa Lucia. Along the portico "Questo è da -vendere"<a id='r32' /><a href='#f32' class='c014'><sup>[32]</sup></a> was written on portions of the wall. The -public cemetery. Saw a coffin, when dark, brought -into the church with torches. The poor are separated -from the rich, and have only the turf upon them: the -rich groan under the weight of marble. The priests, -monks, nuns, etc., all in separate squares; a cardinal's -hat covering a death's head.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_196'></a>Returned to Bologna. Went to the theatre. Saw -<i>Agnese</i>: wept like a child: the acting of the madman -inimitable. Went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 6.</i>—Up at 11. Set off with the Prussian -and an Italian officer across the Apennines. Oxen in -continual use. Misty, so could not enjoy the view. -Dreadful winds to Pianoro. That evening the officer -related all the services he had been in; French -liberty, Consulship, Emperor. Refused by the -Austrians; went to Murat, and now going to offer -himself to the Pope; if not accepted, to America. -For which side? "Spanish or Creole."<a id='r33' /><a href='#f33' class='c014'><sup>[33]</sup></a> He had the -unfeelingness to joke upon his father's being killed in -the time of the liberty-rows, saying he got that for not -changing; on which I felt so nettled that I spoke for -half-an-hour upon the ruin the fickleness of the -Italians had brought upon themselves. He felt, I -think, ashamed; at least he gave up that kind of light -talk.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_197'></a>Forgot to say that at Modena I presented<a id='r34' /><a href='#f34' class='c014'><sup>[34]</sup></a> my -passport so that the "24 hours" were invisible; and -left at Modena one who had accompanied us from -Piacenza, telling the most barefaced lies about boars, -dogs, and thieves, that were ever heard.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 7.</i>—At 4 up. Arrived at night at -Fortebuona. Dreadful wind and rain. Supped and -went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 8.</i>—At 5 walked a good part of the -road. Arrived at Florence by the Porta San Gallo, -through the Arch. The custom-house officer, when -we told him, if he wanted to look, he might open, -[replied]: "Che? Un servo del sovrano? Ci sono dei -facchini."<a id='r35' /><a href='#f35' class='c014'><sup>[35]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c006'>Florence, on entering, disappointed me, as we were -obliged to go round on account of the road being -mended. Went to the inn. Dressed—not having -changed linen since Milan. Went to the post: no -letters. In despair, remaining with only four scudi. -Walked about the town,—Arno: into the Cathedral -and Baptistery.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_198'></a>Went to seek Cavalier Pontelli.<a id='r36' /><a href='#f36' class='c014'><sup>[36]</sup></a> Knocked at his -door, along Arno—both before and behind. Could -not make any one hear. One who lived near -(Lecchini), upon my asking how to get in, said he was -thankful to say he was not Pontelli, and did not know. -Returned home. Gave the Prussian a missal I had -bought at Bologna. He broke my pipe. Went to -bed. Wrote to Pontelli and Brême.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 9.</i>—Got up; went to seek Pontelli. -Found he had a villa at Porta San Gallo. Went -thither, knocked; saw his head pop out of the window -in a greasy night-cap. On my announcing myself, -he descended, opened the door, and received me -with welcome. Found him at breakfast, sausages, -caviare, etc. Sat down; told me his housekeeper would -not show herself; invited me to come to his house -instead of the inn. Went into town; took a peep at -the Gallery—at the precious vases, Venus, etc. Went -to the inn. Put up my things, paid; and, seeing -the Prussian envied me my desk, I gave it him, on -condition that, if we ever met again, he would paint -me a picture he sketched in my album. Went to -Pontelli; dined; accompanied him to town. His -servant took a porter to carry my things to the Arno -house, and then we went to pay visits.</p> - -<p class='c006'>In the way he told me he lived very retired, and -very economically that he might not want; that the -people now looked upon him with a good eye; that -the Government also did not prosecute him; and that -he in fine thought that a revolution would be general—trying -to persuade me that his avarice was mere -policy.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Went to pay a visit to Cavalier Tomasi, a Cortonian. -<a id='Page_199'></a>Found many in the room, who all sat upon me about -English politics. Left them when they were going -to play. Thence to Abate Fontani, Librarian of the -Riccardi Library. Talked of Madame de Staël, -Finch, etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Returned home. Found I was in the house of the -Capponis, Pontelli having the lower storey.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 10.</i>—Up at 9. Dressed in black silk etc., -the housekeeper going to mass; and, Pontelli apparently -not being willing that I should accompany her, -I went out a little after, and went to the same church, -where I spoke with her. Looked at the church; and -then went to San Lorenzo, Santo Spirito [Santa -Croce],<a id='r37' /><a href='#f37' class='c014'><sup>[37]</sup></a> where I saw the tomb of Galileo, Machiavelli, -Alfieri, Cosmo de' Medici, etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Returned, and went with a letter from de Brême -to the Countess of Albany. Found there several. -Presented my letter: "Very like your father."</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The Countess of Albany, it need hardly be said, -was the widow of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, -the "Young Pretender." Born in 1752, Princess of -Stolberg-Gedern, she married the Prince in 1772. -Being much ill-treated by him, she left him, and -maintained a practically conjugal relation with Conte -<a id='Page_200'></a>Vittorio Alfieri, the famous dramatic poet: they -could have married after a while, but no nuptial -ceremony took place. Alfieri died in 1803, and the -Countess then became very intimate with a French -painter, much younger than herself, named Fabre. -She died in Florence in January 1824. If Dr. Polidori -had been a Jacobite, he would have held that, in -waiting upon the Countess of Albany, he was in -the presence of the Queen Dowager of the United -Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. It will be -observed that the Countess told Polidori that he was -"very like his father." The latter had, from 1787 to -1789, been secretary to the Conte Alfieri, and had -known the Countess in Colmar and Paris. In one -of his privately printed books he has left on record -a little anecdote of the royal dame, which, trifling as -it is, may find a place here. "While the Conte -Alfieri was slowly recovering health I was invited -to pass the evenings with him and the Countess, so -that on various occasions I '<i>fui terzo tra cotanto -senno</i>.'<a id='r38' /><a href='#f38' class='c014'><sup>[38]</sup></a> But this honour did not last long. For -one time when I was with them the lady turned her -eyes on me, and asked Alfieri why my thighs were -rounded while his were flat. 'Stuff and nonsense,' -he replied, wrinkling his nose, and he passed on to -some different talk. From that time I no more had -the honour of being one of the exalted party; neither -could I complain of this, for I myself felt that that -question had been unseemly, and more in character -for a drab than for a discreet and modest lady."]</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_201'></a>Conversation became general. Republics being -brought upon the tapis, I took to defending them, -especially against a gentleman near me. After some -time he went, and I gathered he was brother to the -King of Prussia.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Took my leave, and came to dinner, after going to -the caffè to wait for Pontelli. Rain hindered him -from keeping his appointment, so that I went at last -alone to San Gallo, he having the custom of staying -the Sundays only in town. Was presented by him -to Lecchini, the Inspector of Police, who recognized -me as a Tuscan, and the domiciliary communication -was made out as such.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 11.</i>—Tried to stay at home. Forced by -Pontelli's long-in-vain repeated hints to go out; -jealous of his young housekeeper, though she is -hardly worth it. Roamed about, dined, and went -to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 12.</i>—Same. Dined with him at a -restaurateur's.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 13.</i>—Got up at 7; tired of Pontelli, and -set off for Arezzo, with a shirt in my pocket and -<a id='Page_202'></a>with my dog. When at Incisa it began to rain; -walked on through Feline, Monte Varchi, to Arezzo. -Thunder and lightning excessive, with violent rain. -I was at last so numbed that when roused I seemed -to be wakened; my dog could not stand it, but at -7 miles from Arezzo fell. I did not perceive it, but -walked on. Arrived at 8, having walked 45 miles -in 12 hours, having stopped once at Incisa to eat -and rest. Found my uncle's house; knocked. The -servant, hearing I was his nephew, flew up-stairs, and -I met a tall, stout, slovenly woman, my aunt. On -the second storey, where they lodged, they made a -fire. I changed my things for my uncle's, and while -changing he arrived—a tall, stout, handsome, mild-looking -man. Put myself to bed; ate, and they left -me to sleep.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This uncle, Luigi Polidori, was a physician, and -had a considerable reputation for the cure of the -local typhoid fever (tifo).]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 14.</i>—Found myself well; no cold, only -my left groin stiff from a wound in my foot. Saw -my two cousins, Pippo and Teresa; put myself to -study. After 6 went with my uncle to Signor Gori, -where I heard music. Four or five girls wanting -husbands, two priests, whitewashed walls, and several -young men, were the entertainment.</p> - -<p class='c006'>While at Arezzo, my life was quiet enough; study -<a id='Page_203'></a>till I went out at 6, when I went to play at cards and -talk at Signor Gori's. Saw the prisons. One of the -descendants of a true Lombard family walking about -in a dirty sailor-looking jacket. Signora Onesti and -daughter the most abominable scandal-talkers I ever -heard, though she was a Pitti. Library always shut. -The School of Ignatius a fine building. Churches -fine: the Chapel of St. Mary, the Cathedral with the -basso-rilievo altars, the church with the altar painted -by Vasari, etc.—I recovered my dog.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 21.</i>—Set off to return to Florence with -half-a-scudo in my pocket; having refused to accept -from my uncle, not being willing to let him know -how it stood. Frost on the ground: hurt my foot. -Lost my dog again at Montesarchi. At Feline got -into a carriage, not being able to do more on account -of my foot. Met a physician, a cavaliere and his -wife. Arrived at 7; Pontelli lent me a scudo to pay.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 22, 23, 24.</i>—Stayed at Pontelli's on account -of my foot, though Pontelli tried to send me out -under pretence that I should see the town. But, not -being able, he stayed at home till 6, when he told me -I had better go to bed—which I generally did to quiet -him. No letters according to servant.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 25.</i>—Tired of Pontelli. That I might go -to Pisa, I issued out intending to sell my watch-chain; -but as a last chance looked at the Post Office, and -<a id='Page_204'></a>found two letters from Lloyd, who, as soon as he had -received my letter, set off from Venice to see me. -On the road he lost his purse with 36 louis, and, -having no letters at Florence, he could only give me -20 scudi. Received me with great kindness, and -assured me that, while he had money, I should never -want. Dined with him and Somers. They advised -me to settle in Florence as physician to the English. -I however determined to see Vaccà first; wished him -good-bye, as he was obliged to go to Rome for money.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[There were two brothers named Vaccà, or Vaccà -Berlinghieri, who had been known to Gaetano Polidori -in Pisa before he left Italy with Alfieri. Gaetano -(who was a native of Bientina near Pisa, his family -belonging chiefly to Pontedera) also stayed in the -same house with the Vaccàs in Paris after leaving -his secretaryship with the Count. They were then -both medical students. One of them, Leopoldo—who -had been intimate with Napoleon while the latter -was in the Military College—abandoned medicine, -and served under the French empire in Spain, dying -not many years afterwards. The other brother, -Andrea, attained an European reputation in medicine, -and especially surgery: Shelley, when in Pisa, consulted -him more than once.]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 26.</i>—Went to seek the Naviglio, to go -by water to Pisa. At going out, stopped by the -<a id='Page_205'></a>gate-officer, who, on hearing me enquire where the -boat was, would not let me pass without proofs of -my being <i>originario Toscano</i>; so I went to Lecchini, -and got him to write me a declaration. The boat -could not set off to-day, so returned to Pontelli and -went to bed.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 27.</i>—At 7 set off in the boat on the -Arno for Pisa.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>November 29, 30, December 1.</i>—Stayed in my room, -copying <i>Osteologia</i> of my grandfather.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[This <i>Osteologia</i> is a treatise on osteology written -in verse—octave stanzas. The author was Agostino -Ansano Polidori, by profession a surgeon, born in -1714 and deceased in 1778. In 1847 Gaetano Polidori -printed this poem at his private press. He had previously -made a MS. copy of it, with an introduction -giving a few family-particulars. One statement made -in this introduction is that the mother of Agostino -was a Florentine lady named Folchi—"perhaps" (so -says Gaetano Polidori) "descended from an English -family domiciled in Florence, which may have changed -its name Folks into Folchi."]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 2.</i>—Up at 9; went to see Vaccà; still at -hospital. While waiting for him, saw an Austrian -colonel, who, in the excess of his gratitude to Vaccà, -called him the <i>Dio della Medicina</i>. Vaccà expressed -great joy to see me; told me to make his house my -<a id='Page_206'></a>own; to dine there when I chose, and often; to -begin to-day; not to use ceremony. Left me, and I -returned home; went to dine at V[accà]'s. Introduced -me to his wife, a pleasing pretty Frenchwoman, -the former wife of his brother; he had just -obtained the Pope's dispensation to marry her. Spent -the evening there.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 3, 4, to 21.</i>—Went to the hospital in the -mornings when Vaccà was not ill; three or four -times to the Library. Studied in the mornings; went -to dine either at Vaccà's or at eating-house; always -evenings at Vaccà's. Corsi, a well-informed lawyer, -cav[alier] serv[ente] to V[accà?];<a id='r39' /><a href='#f39' class='c014'><sup>[39]</sup></a> Mario ex cav[alier] -serv[ente]. Cecco Castanelli, Pachiani, etc.; chess -with the English; with Vaccà. For the various -information I obtained there see notes.</p> - -<p class='c006'>[The Pachiani (or Pacchiani) here mentioned must -certainly be the same Abate Pachiani who in 1820 -introduced Shelley to the Contessina Emilia Viviani, -to whom the poet dedicated his <i>Epipsychidion</i>. -Medwin, in his <i>Life of Shelley</i>, a book which does not -now obtain many readers, gives a lively but partly -very unfavourable account of Pachiani: I append a few -extracts from it, more as being relevant to Shelley -than to Polidori. "Pachiani was about fifty years of -age, somewhat above the common height, with a -<a id='Page_207'></a>figure bony and angular. His face was dark as that -of a Moor. During the reign of Austrian despotism -he was admirably calculated for a spy. As to his -religion, it was about on a par with that of l'Abate -Casti. At Pisa, il Signore Professore was the title -by which he was generally known. He lost [his -professorship] by an irresistible <i>bon mot</i>. During one -of his midnight orgies, which he was in the habit of -celebrating with some of the most dissolute of the -students, he was interrogated, in the darkness, by the -patrole in the streets of Pisa as to who and what he -was,—to which questioning he gave the following -reply: 'Son un uomo pubblico, in una strada pubblica, -con una donna pubblica.' His epigrams were <i>sanglants</i>, -and he gave sobriquets the most happy for those -who offended him. His talent was conversation—a -conversation full of repartee and sparkling with wit; -and his information (he was a man of profound -erudition, vast memory, and first-rate talent) made -him almost oracular. He was a mezzano, cicerone, -conoscitore, dilettante, and I might add ruffiano."<a id='r40' /><a href='#f40' class='c014'><sup>[40]</sup></a>]</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 21.</i>—Went in the evening to the Countess -Mastrani's. Ices, iced people, prepared poetry, music. -Went to the theatre, in the days past, several times. -Saw Goldoni's <i>Bugiardo</i>, with Harlequin etc.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_208'></a><i>December 22.</i>—As usual.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 23.</i>—Same.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 24.</i>—Ditto.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 25.</i>—Christmas-day. Walked along Arno. -Spent the evening and dined at Vaccà's.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 26.</i>—Up at 7. Went with Vaccà to -Leghorn, a neat, regular, well-built town. The -first thing I went in search of was the sea, and I -stood gazing some time on the waves. The Public -Place and Strada Maestra fine. Saw Vescali's -collection of alabasters. Returned by 3. Dined -with Vaccà. Went to the theatre with Mrs. Vaccà, -who introduced me to Signora Bettina Franciuoli.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 27.</i>—As usual. Up at 4—dined at Vaccà's—went -to theatre, and to B.'s box.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 28.</i>—Went to hear nella Chiesa dei -Cavalieri (after a ride with Mrs. Vaccà) Nicolini play -a sonata upon the organ, which is perhaps the finest -in Italy. There were the Prince Villafranca, the -Countess Castelfiel, Princess della Pace, and other -nobles. At Vaccà's and theatre.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 29.</i>—Up at 3-1/2. Dined at Vaccà's: -theatre. English etc. as usual.</p> - -<p class='c006'><i>December 30.</i>—Up at 1. Reading Sismondi. Got -up—went to Vaccà to dine. After English, to the -Casa Mastrani: all evening with Sofia. The others—Biribro, -Dionigi.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_209'></a>[According to a letter from Lord Byron, April 11, -1817, Dr. Polidori had at least three patients at Pisa—Francis -Horner, a child of Thomas Hope, and -Francis North, Lord Guilford. They all died—which -may or may not have been partly the Doctor's -fault.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>With this entry we come to the end of Dr. -Polidori's Diary—although (as I have before intimated) -not by any means to the end of his sojourn in Italy. -He saw Byron again in April 1817 in Venice: -Shelley, to the best of my knowledge, he never -re-beheld.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I add here two letters which Polidori wrote to his -sister Frances (my mother, then a girl of only sixteen), -and two to his father. The first letter was written -soon after beginning the journey with Byron; the -last not long after the date of parting from him. I -also add a letter sent to Mr. Hobhouse during -Polidori's sojourn with Byron, and a note, of much -later date, written by Mrs. Shelley to my father, -Gabriele Rossetti.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The letter to Mr. Hobhouse, it will be observed, -goes over some of the same details which appear in -the Diary. This letter has been copied by me from -the Broughton Papers, in the Manuscript Department -of the British Museum (Add. MSS. 36456 to 36483). -I did my best to trace whether these papers contain -<a id='Page_210'></a>anything else relating to Polidori, and I do not think -they do. In fact, the affairs of Lord Byron, and the -very name of him, scarcely figure in those Broughton -Papers at all: for instance, I could not find anything -relating to his death.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><span class='sc'>John Polidori to Frances Polidori.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c010'><span class='sc'>My dear Fanny</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>I shall see Waterloo in a day or two—don't -you wish to be with me? but there are many more -things that I have seen which would have given you -as much pleasure. Shakespear's Cliff at Dover, the -French coast, the phosphorescent sea, Bruges, Ghent, -Antwerp, and Brussels, have all got more than is in -any of Feinaigh's plates to excite the memory to -bring forth its hidden stores. The people amongst -whom we are at present dwelling is one that has -much distinguished itself in the noblest career, the -race for liberty; but that tends little to the ennobling -of a people without the sun of literature also deigns -to shine upon them.</p> - -<p class='c006'>It was not the warlike deeds, the noble actions, of -the Greeks and Romans or modern Italians, that has -rescued these names from the effacing daub of oblivion; -if it had not been for their poets, their historians, -their philosophers, their heroes would in vain -have struggled for fame. Their actions would have -<a id='Page_211'></a>been recorded in the dusty legends of monks, and -consequently have been forgotten, like those of the -Belgians, Carthaginians, and others. How many fine -actions of modern times will be buried in oblivion -from the same want, and how many merely secondary -characters will be handed down with a halo round -their deeds reflected from the pages of historic genius!</p> - -<p class='c006'>I am very pleased with Lord Byron. I am with -him on the footing of an equal, everything alike: at -present here we have a suite of rooms between us. -I have my sitting-room at one end, he at the other. -He has not shown any passion; though we have -had nothing but a series of mishaps that have put <i>me</i> -out of temper though they have not ruffled his. The -carriage, the new carriage, has had three stoppages. -We are at present at Brussels merely to have the -carriage-part well looked at and repaired.</p> - -<p class='c006'>The country till here has been one continued flat; -and, except within this neighbourhood, we have not -seen a rising ground on which to feast our eyes. -Long avenues paved in the middle form the continued -appearance of our roads. The towns are magnificently -old, such as England cannot rival, and the state of -cultivation is much greater than in England: indeed -we have not seen a weed or a foot of waste ground -all our way. The people in the country show no -misery; the cottages comfortable, whitewashed, large-windowed, -<a id='Page_212'></a>shining with brass utensils internally, and -only having as many heaps of dirt as there are inhabitants—who -certainly throw away all their cleanliness -upon the house, fields, roads, and windows. -But I will not fill my letter with this, as some time -you will either see my Journal in writing or print—Murray -having offered me 500 guineas for it through -Lord Byron. L[ord] B[yron] is going to give me the -manuscript, when done printing, of his new cantos of -<i>Childe Harold</i>.<a id='r41' /><a href='#f41' class='c014'><sup>[41]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c006'>Have you seen Mrs. Soane and Mr. S[oane]? how -are they? If you see them, remember me to her and -him. I shall write when I have seen the seat of <i>his</i> -hero's glory, <i>mine's</i> disgrace; no, not disgrace—misfortune. -See Mrs. S[oane], and write how she is.</p> - -<p class='c006'>How are you all at home? Papa, Mamma, Meggy -(have you heard from her?), Charlotte, Bob, Henry, -Eliza, and Mr. Deagostini. Remember me to all, and -to all who enquire about me not merely from curiosity—telling -me in your next whether they exceed the -number 0. I am very well, and wrote Mamma from -Ostend.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>I remain, my dear Fanny,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'>Your affect. Brother,</div> -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>J. Polidori</span>.</div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='small'>Brussels, <i>May 2, 1816</i>.</span></p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_213'></a>Write to me—Dr. Polidori, à Genève, poste restante,—and -soon, as I shall be there in 12 days.</p> - -<h3 class='c016'><span class='sc'>To John Hobhouse, Whitton Park,<br />near Hounslow.</span></h3> - -<div class='c007'><span class='small'>Coblentz, <i>May 11, 1816</i>.</span></div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='sc'>Dear Sir</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>As we are at last some way on our -journey, I take a sheet of paper up, in despair of -filling it, to tell you we are both well and hearty. -Lord Byron's health is greatly improved, his stomach -returning rapidly to its natural state. Exercise and -peace of mind, making great advances towards the -amendment of his <i>corps délabré</i>, leave little for -medicine to patch up. His spirits, I think, are also -much improved. He blithely carols through the day, -'Here's to you, Tom Brown': and, when he has -done, says, 'That's as well as Hobhouse does it.' -You and his other friend, Scrope Davies, form a great -subject of conversation.</p> - -<p class='c006'>God! here I am at the end of all my thoughts. -Oh no! Waterloo was ridden over by my Lord on a -Cossack horse, accompanied by myself on a Flemish -steed; Lord Byron singing Turkish or Arnaout -riding-tunes, and your h[umble] s[ervant] listening. -We had a very good day of it. Lord Byron visited -Howard's (I think, Colonel) burying-place twice. -<a id='Page_214'></a>We have had two days by preëminence in our -tour—to-day and Waterloo. To-day we came from -Bonn hither through the finest scenes I ever saw, -modern and ancient; the 13th and 18th century -forming an <i>olla podrida</i> with the bases given in the -year 1. Towers and towns and castles and cots were -sprinkled on the side of a.... But here I am on -poetic stilts, cut short for prose ones.</p> - -<p class='c006'>They boast—the Ministerialists and others—of -ours being the happy land. I should like to carry -John Bull to Flanders and the Rhine: happiness, -content, cleanliness (here and there), husbandry, -plenty without luxury, are here bestowed on all. -War has had no effect upon the fields; and even at -Waterloo no one (except for the glittering button -or less brilliant cuirass in beggar's hand) would -imagine two such myriaded armies had met there. -No sulkiness is seen upon the face here, and no impudence. -On the Rhine and in Flanders there are -hardly any beggars. To-day we had nosegays given -us by little girls for centimes. But the other day, -coming to Battice, we met the best beggars: three -little girls, pretty though not well dressed, ran -along our carriage, crying out—"Donnez-nous un -sou, Monsieur le Général en chef"; and another, -"Chef de bataillon." Having given these some, a -boy followed, pulling faces comic enough to make -<a id='Page_215'></a>such grave dons laugh, and crying out, "Vivent -Messieurs les Rois des Hanovériens—donnez-moi -un sou."</p> - -<p class='c006'>As I fear I have tried your eyes, and lost my -pains after all on account of the illegibility of my -accursed pen's scratches, I must end—assuring you -at the same time I am with esteem</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Yours etc.,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>J. Polidori</span>.</div> - -<p class='c006'>We count upon being at Geneva in ten days at -best. Excuse the bad writing etc., for I am in a -fever of digestion after my ride.—J. P.</p> - -<h3 class='c016'><span class='sc'>To Gaetano Polidori.</span></h3> -<div class='c007'><span class='small'><i>September 20, 1816.</i></span></div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='sc'>My dear Father</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>You judged right with regard to my -writing. I had written twice since your letter -announcing <i>The Pamphleteer</i>, and was anxiously -waiting yours. Your letter gave me pleasure; -and I was indeed in want of some just then, for -I was in agitation for my parting from Lord -Byron. We have parted, finding that our tempers -did not agree. He proposed it, and it was settled. -There was no immediate cause, but a continued -series of slight quarrels. I believe the fault, if any, -<a id='Page_216'></a>has been on my part; I am not accustomed to have -a master, and therefore my conduct was not free and -easy. I found on settling accounts that I had 70 -napoleons; I therefore determined to walk over -Italy, and (seeing the medical establishments) see if -there proves a good opportunity to settle myself, so -that I hope I am still off your hands for nine -months: perhaps Lady Westmorland, who is at -Rome, is desirous of having an English physician -for longer, I having a letter for her from Mme. de -Staël. I shall write to-day to Vaccà and Zio [uncle] -for letters to Milan to physicians, in your name; and -at present, till I think they and my trunks can have -arrived, will wander amongst the Alps,—in which -course I am now at Thun, almost in the centre. I -have seen Mont Blanc and its glaciers, and will see -the Jungfrau, Grindelwald, and Grimsel. Then I -will go by the Simplon to Milan, whither direct to -me poste-restante, only putting my Giovanni etc. -names in full, as there are Polidoris there.<a id='r42' /><a href='#f42' class='c014'><sup>[42]</sup></a> I am -in good health and spirits; I hope this won't hurt -yours, for assure yourself I will do all I can not -to allow you to feel any inconvenience on my -account.</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_217'></a>Remember me to my mother, who I know will -feel deeply this disappointment; to Mary,<a id='r43' /><a href='#f43' class='c014'><sup>[43]</sup></a> Fanny, -and Charlotte, to Signor Deagostini and Signor De -Ocheda, and to all.</p> - -<p class='c006'>If you could get me letters of introduction, they -would be of great use. In the meanwhile, my dear -father, believe me</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Your affectionate son,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>John Polidori</span>.</div> - -<h3 class='c016'><span class='sc'>John Polidori to Gaetano Polidori—Translation.</span></h3> -<div class='c007'><span class='small'>Arezzo, <i>November 14, 1816</i>.</span></div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='sc'>Dear Father</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>I fear you must be in much anxiety at not -having heard from me for so long; but the reason -was that I did not wish to write before having seen -my uncle—to whom I went the day before yesterday, -and who received me with great affection and pleasure. -I wrote to him from Thun. Thence I went to -Grindelwald and Lauterbrunner; thence to Interlachen, -and, by the Lake of Brientz, to Meyringen; by -the Grimsel in the Valais to Obergasteln; thence to -Brieg; and then by the Simplon down to Farinoli -in the Borromean Islands. Thence I embarked to -Sestri Calende; thence to Milan—where, meeting the -<a id='Page_218'></a>poet Monti, Lord Byron, Monsignor de Brême, and -others of my acquaintance, I remained some weeks. -Thence I went to Florence, by Bologna, Modena, -Parma, and Piacenza, and crossing the Apennines. In -Florence I stayed two days, and saw Cavalier -Pontelli, Abate Fontani, Dr. Frosini, and others. -Thence I went on foot to Arezzo, where I found my -uncle, my aunt, Pippo, and Teresa, all well; and they -received me with great cordiality into their house, -where I now am.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Seeing, by your letter to my uncle, in how much -trouble you are on my account, I have determined, -after learning whether Lady Westmorland will employ -me or no—if yes, to go to Rome; if no, to go straight -from Leghorn to London, to the bosom of my family. -I shall soon hear from Lady Westmorland, as Lady -Jersey undertook, at the instance of Monsignor de -Brême, to ask her mother whether she wants me or -not, and she is now in Florence, <i>en route</i> for Rome. -In case she should tell me yes, I shall at once go to -Rome: but meanwhile I don't proceed any farther -than Arezzo. If she says no, I shall be off to Leghorn, -and return to London.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I wish that in your next letter you would send me -enough money, in a bill on Florence, for paying the -passage from Leghorn to London, for the chance of -my not having enough remaining....</p> - -<p class='c006'><a id='Page_219'></a>When I see you again I shall have much to tell you -about, but will not put it into a letter. Suffice it that -I have found that what you told me about Italy is -but too true. I am in good health....</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Your affectionate son,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>John Polidori</span>.</div> - -<p class='c006'>[To this letter the uncle Luigi Polidori added -something. One point regarding Lord Byron is of a -certain interest.]</p> - -<p class='c006'>I became indignant at some references [made by -John Polidori] to the strange conduct of that Lord -with whom he was travelling: but <i>he</i> kept his temper -well—I envy him for that. All these people are hard: -Sævus enim ferme sensus communis in illâ fortunâ.—Patience!</p> - -<hr class='c011' /> - -<p class='c006'>[My father, about the date of this ensuing letter, met -Mrs. Shelley several times, and he liked her well. He -did not think her good-looking: indeed I have heard -him say "Era brutta" (she was ugly).—The letter is -written in fairly idiomatic, but by no means faultless, -Italian.—I am not aware whether Gaetano Polidori -supplied Mrs. Shelley with information, such as she -asked for, for her Biography of Alfieri: perhaps a -minute inspection of the book might show.—<i>Cleopatra</i>, -acted in 1775, was Alfieri's first attempt at -tragedy.]</p> - -<div class='c009'><a id='Page_220'></a><span class='small'>Harrow, <i>April 20, 1835</i>.</span></div> - -<p class='c006'><span class='sc'>Courteous Signor Rossetti</span>,</p> - -<p class='c008'>Thank you so much for your amiable reply, -and the interest you show in the undertaking of a -pen but too unworthy of those great names which give -so much lustre to your country. Meanwhile I am -about to make a farther request: but am afraid of -showing myself troublesome, and beg you to tell me -your opinion sincerely. I should not like to seem to -take impertinent liberties; and, if my idea appears -to you impracticable, don't say anything about it -to any one.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I am informed that your Father-in-law the celebrated -Polidori can relate many interesting circumstances -regarding Alfieri. The Life which I am writing -will be printed in <i>Dr. Lardner's Cyclopædia</i>: therefore -it is very short, running perhaps to 70 pages—not -more. Thus, if I could introduce some details not yet -known but worthy of publication, I should be very -pleased indeed. I don't know whether Polidori would -be willing to give me such details. For example, -I should like to know whether Alfieri was really so -melancholy and taciturn as is said by Sir John -Hobhouse in his work, <i>Illustrations to the Fourth Canto -of Childe Harold</i>; whether he gave signs of attachment -to his friends, and whether he was warmly -<a id='Page_221'></a>loved by them in return. Some anecdotes would be -welcomed by me; also some information about the -Countess of Albany. There is an affectation of -silence, as to all that relates to her, in whatever -has yet been written concerning Alfieri. But, now -that she is dead, this is no longer necessary. Were -they married? If not, nothing need be said about -it; but, if they were, it would be well to affirm as -much.</p> - -<p class='c006'>I shall be in London next Sunday, and shall be -staying there several days. But I am in a quarter -so distant from yours (7 Upper Eaton Street, Grosvenor -Place) that it would be indiscreet to ask for a -visit from you—and much more indiscreet to say -that, if Signor Polidori would visit me, he could -perhaps tell me some little things more easily than -by writing. As the Tuscans say, "Lascio far a lei."<a id='r44' /><a href='#f44' class='c014'><sup>[44]</sup></a> -You will do whatever is most fitting, and will give -me a reply at your convenience.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Repeating the thanks so much due to your kindness, -believe me</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Your much obliged servant,</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='c009'><span class='sc'>M. W. P. Shelley</span>.</div> - -<p class='c006'>I hear that Alfieri was intimate with Guiccioli of -Ravenna, the latter being then quite young; and -<a id='Page_222'></a>they had a joint idea and project (which did not turn -out manageable) of establishing a national theatre -in Italy. Possibly Signor Polidori knows about this. -Is there any historical work containing particulars -about the closing years of the royal husband of the -Countess of Albany? I don't know, and am in the -dark. He (is it not so?) was the last of the Stuarts, -except his brother the Cardinal of York.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Oh what trouble I am giving you to reply! Really -I now feel more than ashamed of it. But you are -so kind. And, besides, the grammar of this letter -must be like Alfieri's <i>Cleopatra</i>.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <a id='Page_223'></a> - <h2 class='c004'>INDEX OF NAMES</h2> -</div> - -<ul class='index c003'> - <li class='c017'>A</li> - <li class='c017'><i>Agnese</i> (drama), <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Aix-la-Chapelle, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Albany, Countess of, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>-<a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Alfieri, Count, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-<a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Andreini, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Adamo</i>, by, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Antwerp, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Arezzo, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Arrow, Eliza, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Avenches, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - <li class='c003'>B</li> - <li class='c017'>Bâle, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Battice, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Beauharnais, Prince Eugène, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Berger, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Berne, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Beyle, Henri, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Reminiscences of Napoleon</i>, by, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bologna, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bonn, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bonnet, Charles, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bonstetten, C. V. de, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Borsieri, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Il Giorno</i>, by, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Breadalbane, Lord, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Brelaz, Madame, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>-<a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Brême, Cavalier de, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— de (or Brema), Monsignor, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-<a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>-<a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Brême, de (or Brema), Monsignor <i>Ina</i>, by, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Breuss, Countess, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>-<a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bridgens, R., <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Costumes of Italy, etc.</i>, by, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Brieg, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>-<a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Broglie, Duc Victor de, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Duchesse Victor de, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>-<a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bruges, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Brussels, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>-<a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Bubna, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>-<a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Junior, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Byron, Lady, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Lord, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>-<a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>-<a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>-<a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>-<a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>-<a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>-<a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>-<a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>-<a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>-<a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Childe Harold</i>, by, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Churchill's Grave</i>, by, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Letters and Journals of</i>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>The Vampyre</i> (fragment), by, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>-<a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>To Princess Charlotte</i> by, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c003'><a id='Page_224'></a>C</li> - <li class='c017'>Caluro, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Campagne Chapuis, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Canterbury, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Caravella, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Carlsruhe, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Carnot, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Castan, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Casti, Abate, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Novelle by, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Chamounix, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Charles Edward, Prince, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Charles V, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Chillon, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Churchill, Rev. Charles, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Clairmont, Clare, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>-<a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>-<a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>-<a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Clemann, Harriet, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Madame, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Coblentz, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Colburn, Henry, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Coleridge, S. T., <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Christabel</i>, by, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Fire, Famine, and Slaughter</i>, by, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Cologne, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Cologny, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Conyngham, Lord, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Copeland, Thomas, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Coppet, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Corsi, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>Courier, The</i>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Cowper, Lord, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Curran, J. P., <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li class='c003'>D</li> - <li class='c017'>Dacosta, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Davies, Scrope B., <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Deagostini, John A., <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Domo d'Ossola, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Dover, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Dowden, Professor, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Life of Shelley</i>, by, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>-<a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Drachenfels, the, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Dumont, Etienne, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li class='c003'>E</li> - <li class='c017'>Ehrenbreitstein, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Einard, Madame, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Evans, Rev. Mr., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c003'>F</li> - <li class='c017'>Fabre, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>Fantasmagoriana</i>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Finch, Colonel, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Fletcher, William, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Florence, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Floris, Franz, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Angels and Devils</i>, by, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Folchi, Signorina, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Francis, Emperor, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Freiburg (Baden), <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c003'>G</li> - <li class='c017'>Galilei, Galileo, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Garnett, Dr., <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Dictionary of National Biography</i>, article in, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Gatelier, Abate, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Madame, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Geneva, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Genthoud, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Ghent, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Gianni, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Glenorchy, Lord, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Godwin, William, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>-<a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Gordon, Mrs., <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Pryse L., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>-<a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Gori, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Gray, Thomas, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c017'><a id='Page_225'></a>Grove, Harriet, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Guasco, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Guiccioli, Count, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Guilford, Lord (Francis), <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Guttannen, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> - <li class='c003'>H</li> - <li class='c017'>Hamilton, Lady Dalrymple, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Helmhoft, Miss, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hentsch, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hervey, Mrs., <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hobhouse, Sir J. Cam, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>-<a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hoche, General, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hogg, T. Jefferson, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Horner, Francis, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hougoumont, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>-<a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Howard, Colonel, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hunt, Leigh, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Hunter, Sir C., <a href='#Page_89'>89</a></li> - <li class='c003'>I</li> - <li class='c017'>Isella, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Isola Bella, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Italy, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> - <li class='c003'>J</li> - <li class='c017'>Jacquet, Madlle., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Jersey, Countess of, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Earl of, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Jordaens, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>St. Apollonia</i>, by, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Julia Alpinula, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li class='c003'>K</li> - <li class='c017'>Kaft, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Kalf, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Kauffman, Angelica, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Keats, John, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Keswick, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Kinnoul, Lord, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Kruger, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Judgment of Solomon</i>, by, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c003'>L</li> - <li class='c017'>Lac, Château du, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Lake Leman, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Lausanne, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Lecchini, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Leghorn, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Leigh, Hon. Mrs., <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Medora, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Lewis, Matthew G., <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Liège, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Lloyd, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Locatelli, Dr., <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Louvain, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - <li class='c003'>M</li> - <li class='c017'>Malines, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Mannheim, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Marceau, General, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>-<a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Marschner, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>The Vampyre</i>, opera, by, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Martineau, Harriett, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Massey, Junior, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>-<a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mr., <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Mastrani, Countess, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Mayence, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Medwin, Captain, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Conversations with Byron</i>, by, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Life of Shelley</i>, by, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Metsys, Quintin, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Milan, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>-<a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Milton, John, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Modena, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Monti, Signora, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c017'><a id='Page_226'></a>Monti, Vincenzo, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>-<a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Homer translated, by, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Moore, Thomas, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Life of Byron</i>, by, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Morat, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>-<a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>Morning Chronicle, The</i>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Murat, King Joachim, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Murray, John, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li class='c003'>N</li> - <li class='c017'>Napoleon I., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>-<a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li class='c017'>National Portrait Gallery, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Negri, Marchese, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Nelli, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>New Monthly Magazine, The</i>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>New Times, The</i>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c017'>North, Frederick, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Norwich, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c003'>O</li> - <li class='c017'>Odier, Dr., <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Odier, Madlle., <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Onesti, Signora, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Ostend, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - <li class='c017'>P</li> - <li class='c017'>Pachiani, Abate, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Peacock, T. L., <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pellico, Silvio, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pictet de Sergy, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pisa, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Polidori, Agostino A., <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Osteologia</i>, by, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Charlotte, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Dr. John W., <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Cajetan</i>, by, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Polidori, Dr. John W., <i>Costumes of Italy, etc.</i>, by, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Ernestus Berchtold</i>, by, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>-<a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Oneirodynia</i>, by, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Punishment of Death</i>, by, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>The Vampyre</i>, by, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>-<a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>-<a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Ximenes</i>, by, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Gaetano, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-<a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Luigi, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Signora, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pollent, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pontelli, Cavalier, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>-<a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Porro, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Potocka, Countess, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— memoirs of, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Pradt, Abbé de, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c003'>R</li> - <li class='c017'>Raphael, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Lo Sposalizio</i>, by, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Reed, Charlotte, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>-<a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Régnier, Grand Duke, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rembrandt, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rhine, the, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rocca, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Judge, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Roche, Dr. de, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rogers, Samuel, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rossetti, Frances, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Gabriele, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Wm. M., <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Memoir of Shelley</i>, by, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rossi, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rousseau, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rubens, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li class='c017'><a id='Page_227'></a>Rubens, <i>Adoration of Magi</i>, by, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Assembly of Saints</i>, by, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Crucifixion</i>, by, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Descent from the Cross</i>, by, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Martyrdom of St. Peter</i>, by, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>St. George, etc.</i>, by, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>St. Roch and the Plague-stricken</i>, by, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Visitation</i>, by, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Rushton, Robert, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Ryan, Major, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c003'>S</li> - <li class='c017'>Saint Aubyn, Sir John, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Tillotson, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Saint Gothard, Mount, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Saladin, Alexis, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Auguste, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Charles, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Madlle., <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mathilde, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— of Vaugeron, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>-<a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Saladins of Maligny, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Saporati, Marchese, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Saussure, Nicholas T., <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Scala, Teatro della, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Scheldt, the, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Schlegel, August W. von, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Scott, Sir Walter, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Sécheron, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Severn, Joseph, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Sgricci, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>-<a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Artemisia</i>, by, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Eteocle e Polinice</i>, by, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Ettore</i>, by, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Shakespear, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Shelley, Harriet, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mary, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>-<a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>-<a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>-<a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>-<a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Frankenstein</i>, by, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Memoir of Alfieri</i>, by, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Percy B., <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>-<a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>-<a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>-<a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>-<a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Epipsychidion</i>, by, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Poetical Essay</i>, etc., by, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Queen Mab</i>, by, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— —— <i>Zastrozzi</i>, by, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— William, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Sherwood and Neely, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Simplon, the, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Slaney, Mr., <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mrs., <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Soane, John, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mrs., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Somers, Mr., <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Staël, Madame de, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Swarrow, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> - <li class='c003'>T</li> - <li class='c017'>Tasso, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Teniers, David, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Temptation of St. Anthony</i>, by, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Thun, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Lake of, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Tintoretto, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Toffettheim, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Toffettheim, Madame, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> - <li class='c017'><i>Traveller, The</i> (magazine), <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Trevanion, Mr., <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Mrs., <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c003'><a id='Page_228'></a>U</li> - <li class='c017'>Unterwalden, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> - <li class='c003'>V</li> - <li class='c017'>Vaccà, Antonio, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>-<a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Leopoldo, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— Madame, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Valence, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Vandyck, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c017'>—— <i>Crucifixion</i>, by, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Van Eyck, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Villa Diodati, Cologny, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>-<a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Viviani, Conte, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Viviani, Emilia, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> - <li class='c003'>W</li> - <li class='c017'>Wallraf, Professor, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wallraf-Richartz Museum, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Ward, John W. (Lord Dudley), <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Waterloo, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>-<a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Watts, Mr., <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wellington, Duke of, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Westmorland, Countess of, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wildman, Colonel, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wordsworth, Wm., <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wotheron, Mr., <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - <li class='c017'>Wraxall, Sir Nathaniel, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -</ul> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div><i>Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London and Bungay</i></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c002' /> -</div> -<div class='footnotes'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c018'>FOOTNOTES:</h2> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f1'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. The word, as written by Charlotte Polidori, seems to be -"dole" rather than anything else. It looks as if she had copied -the form of Dr. Polidori's word without understanding what it -was. I substitute "door," but this is done <i>faute de mieux</i>.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f2'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. Such is the word written by Charlotte Polidori. I fancy it -ought to be "late."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f3'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. Only an initial is written, "M": but I suppose "Master"—<i>i.e.</i> -Michael Wohlgemuth—is meant.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f4'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. It seems rather odd that Polidori should make this jotting, -"and (not) towns." Perhaps he aimed to controvert the phrase, -"scattered cities crowning these," in Byron's poem quoted -further on.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f5'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. These are the precise words as they stand in Charlotte -Polidori's transcript. It is to be presumed that Dr. Polidori -wrote them some while after May 13, 1816.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f6'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. I don't understand "Mayor" in this context: should it be -"Mylor"?</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f7'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. No name is given: should it be Shelley? Another Englishman -who was in this locality towards the same date was Robert -Southey.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f8'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. I don't think there was any such stone-pelting in Geneva: -it took place elsewhere in Switzerland.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f9'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. The word written is perpanism, or possibly perhanism. Is -there any such word, medical or other? Should it perchance be -pyrrhonism?</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f10'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. The "ghost-story" which Polidori <i>published</i> was <i>The -Vampyre</i>: see p. 128 as to his having begun in the first instance -some different story.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f11'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. Word obscurely written.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f12'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. "Blind" appears to be the word written. It seems an odd -expression—meaning, I suppose, "to blind (mislead or puzzle) -the auditors."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f13'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. This, again, is not clear to me: something in the nature of -a game of forfeits may be indicated.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f14'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. So written: should it be "Bingwen" or something of the -kind?</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f15'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. The word "society" is perfectly clear in Charlotte Polidori's -transcript. From the context, I question whether it ought not -to be "Shakespear." As to "the criticism of Johnson" on Gray -in the <i>Lives of the Poets</i>, many of my readers will recollect that -this criticism is somewhat adverse, Gray being treated as a rather -nebulous writer.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f16'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. Seems rather an odd phrase, but I suppose correctly -transcribed.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f17'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. A name is written here, but so obscurely that I leave it out. -It somewhat resembles "Neravois," or "the ravois."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f18'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. Should this be "glaciers"?</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f19'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. This name is illegibly written: I can only suppose that it -must be meant for Brieg.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f20'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. "I don't understand."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f21'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. "It's an old affair."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f22'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. Coffee with milk, grapes, and figs.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f23'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. Orgoglio is pride; disinganno is undeceiving, disillusion.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f24'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. There is a word following "Rè," evidently the title of the -play which was acted. It looks something like "Amondre," -but cannot be read.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f25'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. The word is more like Crabule than anything else: I don't -understand it.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f26'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. Presumably some English book, but I know not what.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f27'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. I think the name would correctly be Marchese di Negro: -my father had some correspondence, towards 1850, with the then -Marchese of that family.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f28'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. This essay was on the Punishment of Death.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f29'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. The word written is "his"; but the context shows that this -must be a mistake.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f30'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. <i>i.e.</i> Artemisia, who built the mausoleum of Halicarnassus.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f31'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. The speeches run thus: (<i>a</i>) Look at that man, with his cap -on his head. (<i>b</i>) Would you do me the favour of taking off -your hat, so that I may see? (<i>c</i>) Would you wish for it? -(<i>d</i>) Yes, I wish it. In Italian, this last phrase has an imperative -tone, "I will it."—It may be added that the Austrian's phrase -"Lo vorreste?" was itself not civil: the civil form would have -been "Lo vorrebbe ella?"</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f32'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. "To be sold."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f33'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. These words form (I <i>suppose</i>) the answer of the Italian -officer—<i>i.e.</i> he would side with either party indifferently.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f34'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. I presume that the word should be "presented": the -writing looks like "pented."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f35'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. "What? A servant of the sovereign? There are porters."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f36'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. I suppose that Pontelli was a person who had been more or -less known to Dr. Polidori's father before the latter left Italy in -1787, and that the father had given his son some letter of introduction -or the like. Or possibly the introduction came from -some acquaintance in Geneva or in Milan.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f37'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. The name of Santa Croce is not in the MS.: but it ought -to be, as this is the church containing the sepulchral monuments -of Galileo, etc.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f38'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. "Was third amid so much intellect." The phrase is adapted -from a line in Dante's <i>Inferno</i>.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f39'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. Rather (it must be understood) to <i>Signora</i> Vaccà.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f40'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. Ruffiano does not correspond to our word "ruffian," but to -"pimp" or "go-between."</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f41'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. No doubt this intention was not carried into effect.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f42'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. These Polidoris were not (so far as I know) members of the -same family as John Polidori.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f43'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. This was Dr. Polidori's elder sister, Maria Margaret, who -in my time was invariably called "Margaret" in the family.</p> -</div> -<div class='footnote' id='f44'> -<p class='c006'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. "I leave the question to you."</p> -</div> - -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c004'>Transcriber's Note</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>The original spelling and punctuation have been retained.</p> - -<p class='c006'>Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been -preserved.</p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of Dr. John William Polidori, by -John William Polidori - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF DR. 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