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diff --git a/old/54606-0.txt b/old/54606-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 794702b..0000000 --- a/old/54606-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9236 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Flower Garden, by Ida Dandridge Bennett - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Flower Garden - - -Author: Ida Dandridge Bennett - - - -Release Date: April 25, 2017 [eBook #54606] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FLOWER GARDEN*** - - -E-text prepared by Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by -Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 54606-h.htm or 54606-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/54606/54606-h/54606-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/54606/54606-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/flowergardenhand00bennrich - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - - - - -THE FLOWER GARDEN - - -[Illustration: SWEET ALYSSUM AND GOLDEN SAXATILE ARE DESIRABLE FOR -ROCKWORK] - - -The Country Home Library - -THE FLOWER GARDEN - -by - -IDA D. BENNETT - -[Illustration: McC P & Co. SIMPLEX MVNDITIIS NY] - - - - - - -New York -McClure, Phillips & Co. -MCMV - -Copyright, 1903, by -McClure, Phillips & Co. - -Published, May, 1903, N - -Second Impression - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. THE LOCATION AND ARRANGEMENT OF THE GARDEN 3 - - II. SOILS 17 - - III. FERTILISERS 23 - - IV. THE HOTBED, COLD-FRAME AND SAND-BOX 30 - - V. PURCHASING OF SEEDS 41 - - VI. STARTING SEEDS IN FLATS 48 - - VII. TRANSPLANTING AND REPOTTING 53 - - VIII. HOUSE-PLANTS FROM SEEDS 62 - - IX. OUTSIDE WINDOW-BOXES 88 - - X. VARIOUS ANNUALS FROM SEED 98 - - XI. VINES 128 - - XII. ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS FROM SEED 141 - - XIII. BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS 147 - - XIV. AQUATICS 165 - - XV. THE CARE OF THE SUMMER ROSE-BED 173 - - XVI. THE HARDY LILY-BED 179 - - XVII. THE CARE OF CANNAS, CALADIUMS, DAHLIAS, AND OTHER BULBS - DURING WINTER 185 - - XVIII. HARDY SHRUBS AND PLANTS FOR FALL PLANTING 196 - - XIX. WINTER PROTECTION 203 - - XX. THE CARE OF HOUSE-PLANTS IN WINTER 208 - - XXI. COMMON AND ENGLISH NAMES OF FLOWERS 217 - - XXII. BLOOMING SEASON OF VARIOUS TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS 234 - - XXIII. A CHAPTER OF ODDS AND ENDS 245 - - XXIV. A CHAPTER OF DON’TS 253 - - INDEX 259 - - - - - ILLUSTRATIONS - - Sweet Alyssum and Golden Saxatile are Desirable for - Rockwork _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - Ornamental Grasses and Foliage Plants 8 - - Manure Water is a good Way to apply Animal Fertiliser 26 - - When Plants Appear too Thickly in Rows, Transplant 32 - - A Well constructed Hotbed 32 - - Starting Seeds in Flats 50 - - Sifting Loam through a Sieve 56 - - Repotting 60 - - When Two or Three Inches High—Transplant Carnations into - Pots 72 - - An Easily made Carnation Support 72 - - Injured or Faded Leaves should be Removed at once 86 - - Outside Window-boxes 90 - - Boxes in which Scythes are Packed make very good - Window-boxes 94 - - Hanging-baskets for Windows 94 - - Small Water Gardens 104 - - Cool, Moist Spots between Stones 108 - - Dusting with Sulphur 114 - - Spraying with Bordeaux Mixture 114 - - Sow Poppies in the Perennial Border among the late - Flowering Plants 116 - - A Dead Tree Draped with Vines 132 - - Furnish Support for Vines to Run on 134 - - Vine-covered Shed 134 - - Clematis Paniculata Blooms when most Others have Ceased 138 - - Shift into larger Pots as Required 144 - - Should Bulb Outgrow its Quarters Shift into Pot two - Sizes larger 160 - - Wild Water Flowers for Edging Lily-pond 166 - - Water-lilies with Background of Bamboo and Native - Grasses 168 - - A Full blown Cat-tail 170 - - Native Plants Edging a Natural Water Garden 172 - - Training a Climbing Rose 176 - - A Rose covered Building 178 - - A Portion of the Grounds Protected by Shrubbery is the - Place for the Lily-bed 182 - - Turn out Ball of Earth to Ascertain if Pot is filled - with Roots 192 - - A Good Background for Low Shrubs 200 - - Plants for Late Winter Blooming should be brought into - the House before Fall 210 - - Fences may be Made Attractive with Vines or Plants 250 - - - - - PLATES - - - FACING PAGE - - I. Height and Season of Bloom of the Different Perennials 10 - - II. Plan for a Hardy Border 12 - - III. Plan for Rose-garden and Foliage-bed 14 - - - - - THE FLOWER GARDEN - - - - - Chapter _ONE_ - The Location and Arrangement of the Garden - - -A south slope is the ideal situation for a garden, since it insures good -drainage and the greatest amount of sunlight. The garden should also be -open to the east and west, if possible; that it may have the benefit of -the morning and evening sun. Shelter on the north is desirable, as north -winds are disastrous to Roses and tender perennials. Partial shelter on -the west should be given in localities where the prevailing winds of -winter are from that quarter. - -The south side of a building, or even of a high fence, with trees and -tall shrubs at a little distance to the west, is best; though any site -that receives abundant sunshine through the morning and early afternoon -may be made satisfactory by planting trees and shrubs on the north and -west. - -The garden should always be at the rear or side of the dwelling, never -in front or along the street. The reasons for this are obvious. The -garden proper is intended to furnish cut flowers, to provide a place of -experiment with new varieties, and to grow hardy perennials which have -certain seasons of bloom and cannot be depended upon, at all times, for -ornamental effect. One should feel free to work there unobserved of the -passer-by, and this is impossible in a garden close to the street. - -Again, while the permanent garden is beautiful in itself, it is not -suitable for the lawn and greatly mars the effect of the grounds. Beds -of ornamental foliage plants—Cannas, Ricinus, Coleus, and the -like—appropriately placed, add much to the beauty of a well-kept lawn, -but should be carefully considered in relation to its size and the trees -and shrubbery already there. - -On a small city lawn not more than one such bed should be allowed. On a -large lawn three will give a better effect than a great number, -especially if care is taken to have them all visible from different -points on the lawn and from the house, never isolating them by so -placing that clumps of trees or shrubbery intervene, but using these -rather as a background for the beds. - -It is from the hammock that the amateur gardener will most enjoy the -results of her labour. It is there she will find leisure to watch the -growth of plants, to compare the effect of different varieties, to note -where she may improve the vista by a different arrangement next year, to -observe the effects of locality, of the afternoon and morning sun and -all the peculiarities of plant growth that escape her when busy with -trowel and watering-pot, so that the view from it should be first -consideration. - -A very good arrangement is to put a large bed of Ricinus on the most -remote space of the lawn—four plants in the centre of a twelve-foot -bed—surrounded with a row of Salvia splendens edged with Little Gem -Sweet Alyssum. Nearer, an eight-foot bed of the large-flowered Cannas -may be introduced and edged with Coleus or the second size of Caladiums, -while a six-foot bed of ornamental grasses—Arundo Donax, Erianthus -Ravennæ, Eulalia gracillima univittata—will make a satisfactory third. -Such beds are rich in tropical effects and give more distinction to a -lawn than any other class of plants. - -Where there is an ample water-supply these beds may be elevated a few -inches above the lawn to make them more conspicuous; but where the -seasons are hot and dry and water must be carried it is better to set -them slightly lower than the lawn, so that all the available moisture -may be utilised. A few inches of margin must be allowed around the edges -of beds on the lawn so that the mower may run close to the beds without -injuring the plants, though even then it will be best to use the -lawn-shears. Such beds call for carefully trimmed lawns. Unless the -grass can be properly cared for, it is better to exclude flowers from -this part of the grounds entirely, as it is time thrown away to plant -flowers which will presently be hidden by tall grass and weeds. A -neglected lawn involves an amount of labour in the semi-annual cleaning -of spring and fall out of all proportion to the results, while a lawn -well cut and raked is more easily cared for with each recurring year, -the grass growing clean and straight, and the rake and mower passing -freely and easily through it. - -The scheme for a permanent garden must be decided by the size and shape -of the plot of ground at command, an irregular plot sometimes lending -itself to more graceful arrangement than a symmetrical one. The -operation of laying out the beds will be the same, whatever the shape. -Having decided the boundaries of the garden it will be best to mark the -outlines by a cord attached to pegs driven into the ground. The sod -should then be removed from the entire area by cutting just below the -crown of the grass. Desirable arrangements of beds are shown in -accompanying illustrations. Two and one-half or three feet should first -be allowed for walks. The beds may be placed to advantage by finding the -centre of the plot and driving there a stake to which a cord is loosely -attached. Mark off on this cord half the diameter of the bed desired, -for centre of plot, four, five or six feet—fasten to the cord at this -point a sharp stick and describe the circle on the ground. In this way -the garden walks may be outlined and the inner and outer circles of the -round beds. The oval beds must be measured off and defined by stakes -driven into the ground. The width of the beds should be not more than -can be easily reached across for weeding and cultivating. Where the soil -has not been previously cultivated it must be spaded at least two feet -deep, and thoroughly pulverised. All roots and stones should be removed. -If the soil is clayey or gravelly it will be best to remove it entirely -and to fill in with soil better adapted to the growth of flowers. Or the -surface may be removed for several inches and laid aside. Then the -poorer subsoil should be dug out and removed and the surface-soil -replaced in the bottom of the bed with a liberal quantity of old, -well-rotted manure. The bed should then be filled to its original level -with leaf-mould or muck. If all the original soil is to be retained, -remove the top-soil for top-dressing. Spade the manure into the subsoil -and replace the surface-soil. In ground which has not been cultivated -this surface-soil is rich in humus or leaf-mould, which furnishes food -in its most available form for the young plant, and should, therefore, -be left where the plant can use it and not be turned under as is usually -done. Nature never turns the soil upside down; nor will the wise -gardener, except when a richer and better soil is to be added or when it -is necessary to work in manure. - -In making beds that have been worked before and need no enriching, -excellent results may be secured by pushing a long spade into the ground -the whole length of its blade and twisting it around. This breaks up and -mellows the ground more effectually than turning it over, while it -leaves the good soil on top where the young plant-roots can get it. -Later, when the plant grows sturdier and stretches out its roots in -search of food, the manure-enriched earth in the bottom of the bed will -attract and draw them down into its cool, moist depths, away from the -heat and drought of the surface. But the young plants must have mellow, -nourishing soil from the start, or they will perish before they reach -this store-house provided for the mature plant. - -Never prepare a garden by turning under the sod. I am well aware that -this, together with turning under the surface-soil, will be the method -of the average man who has had some experience of farming, but the -flower-grower cannot always follow farming methods with safety. - -After spading the beds it will be well to inclose them with some such -permanent material as brick, cement curbing, or narrow boards. Four-inch -siding set in the ground an inch or more, and held in place on each side -by pegs of wood (old waggon spokes, which can usually be found at the -blacksmith’s, are excellent for this), make the cheapest and most -quickly constructed inclosure, and may be quite covered with such -border-plants as Dusty-miller or Phlox subulata. The boards may be given -a coat of dull-green paint or shingle-stain before being put in place. - -[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND FOLIAGE PLANTS] - -The permanent garden beds should have some such protection, as it -greatly lessens the work of caring for them. Sod borders are very -attractive, but involve an amount of care altogether out of proportion -to the effect, as they must be kept closely shaved and the constantly -encroaching roots of the plants must be as constantly curbed. This is -also the case with grass walks, attractive to look at, but a supreme -nuisance to the gardener. Walks of gravel, cinders or coal-ashes are -preferable, and should be dug deep enough to smother out all weeds in -the soil. If coal-ashes are used the paths should be nearly filled, the -roughest part raked off and the surface gone over with a heavy roller. -If left unrolled, however, the surface will be found firm and hard after -the first heavy rain. Very good and inexpensive walks are obtained in -this manner. Walks, of whatever kind, should never be hoed, and the -weeds must be removed from them by hand. Hardness and smoothness are the -requisites of a good walk. It is well to avoid self-sowing flowers like -Sweet Alyssum, or Petunias, near the inside walks, as they come up by -thousands in the spring and can only be removed by salting, scalding or -uprooting. - -The beds should be well above the surface of the walks, especially those -containing hardy perennials like Peonies and Lilies. In the case of most -plants, water standing around their roots in winter is absolutely fatal. - -The location of the beds and their consequent moisture and sunshine must -determine the flowers to occupy them. If you are fortunate enough to -have a corner low, damp and shaded in the afternoon, that is the place -to set out the beautiful Japanese Iris, Cypripedium acaule and other -moisture-loving plants, while the Gladiolus may be given a prominent -place in full sunshine. Asters and other flowers that do not bloom until -fall should have a less conspicuous place; they are so showy that they -will not fail to attract attention, wherever they may be planted. -Pansies and other low-growing plants should be set out in the bed next -the lawn. The general effect is finer when only one kind of flower is -grown in a bed, but when two or more varieties of flowers, harmonising -in colour, are grown together, the tallest must be placed in the centre -and the others grouped according to height. Various plants may be used -as edgings, due consideration being given to the plants which are to -fill the beds. - -[Illustration: KEY TO PLATE I.] - - - GIVING THE HEIGHT AND SEASON OF BLOOM OF THE DIFFERENT PERENNIALS, ETC. - - - OUTER CIRCLE. - - Pansies—all summer. - - - FIRST CORNER BED. - - A—Montbretias in corners, scarlet and orange, 2 to 3 feet—all - summer. - - B—Gladioli in centre, in variety, 3 to 4 feet—September, October. - - C—Tuberoses, 3 feet—August, September. - - Border of blooming Oxalis, pink and white, 6 inches—all summer - - - CENTRE BED OR MOUND. - - 1—Dark red Peony, 2 feet—May. - - 2—White Peony, 2 feet—June. - - 3—Pink Peony, 2 feet—June. - - 4—Large flowered perennial Phlox—August, September, October. - - x A—Auratum Lily, 2 feet—August. September. - - x B—Speciosum Album, 2 feet—August, September. - - x C—Melpomene, 2 feet—August, September. - - x D—Auratum. - - x E—Longiflorum, white, 2 feet—June. - - x F—Rubrum, 2 feet—August. - - x G—Candidum, white, 3 feet—June. - - Border—Phlox Subulata. - - - REAR CORNER BEDS. - - North Bed—Anemones, Whirlwind and Queen Charlotte, white and pink, 3 - feet—September. - - Border—Wood Anemones. - - South Bed—Asters, 2 feet—September, October. - - Border—Auricula, 8 inches—May. - -A mass of one kind and colour is more effective than a mixed bed. The -beginner will find that the percentage of success is greater in growing -a large number of one kind, all requiring the same conditions of soil, -moisture and sunlight, than in trying to force plants of widely -different habits to grow under the same conditions. Hardy perennials, -however, not many of which deserve an entire bed, do very well with -several varieties in the same long bed or border, and may be so grouped -as to give a succession of bloom throughout the season. A raised bed of -Peonies interspersed with the new, large-blooming Phlox and bordered -with Japan Lilies will give a succession of flowers from May to October; -or a long bed of Hollyhocks, or Hibiscus with a row of large-flowered -Phlox in front and edged with dwarf Phlox Drummondii will give months of -lovely bloom. This last combination also makes a serviceable screen -between the vegetable garden and the lawn, or to hide a rear fence. - -In arranging parti-coloured beds of flowers, due attention must be paid -to the harmonising of tints. Do not combine magenta and scarlet, or -purple and blue. Separate them by the interposition of white—the most -valuable colour in the garden, as it not only harmonises all colours but -wonderfully enhances their brilliancy. White with scarlet, with blue, or -with yellow is always good. Lavender and heliotrope are lovely with -nearly all shades of scarlet, rose and pink. Blue flowers planted in the -rear of the garden increase its apparent size, while white, bright -yellow and scarlet, by bringing the background nearer, decrease it. -Monkshood and the tall blue Larkspur are excellent for rear beds. - -The accompanying diagrams will be of assistance in planning the -garden—not so much in supplying plans to be followed literally as in -suggesting other plans and variations, while giving practical -information as to number of plants required, their distance apart and -the like. Soil and other details will be treated elsewhere. - -In planning a shrubbery (see Plate II.) it is neither necessary nor -desirable to use boards or other curbing for the beds, but the turf -should be kept neatly trimmed and cut. A plot 60 by 40 feet or more, -inclosing a considerable area of turf, gives room for rustic seats, a -stationary hammock, and a tree or two. The circle in the border greatly -increases the accommodation for plants and furnishes an ideal spot for -Lilies. The lily-pond in the centre will be discussed at length in the -chapter devoted to aquatic plants. - -The rather complicated design in Plate III. is intended for a -rose-garden or for foliage-beds on a large lawn. It is not at all -difficult to construct, and a little practice with paper and pencil will -remove any apparent obstacle. If you will draw, on a scale of one inch -to a foot with a compass a succession of circles of six, eight and a -half, twelve and a half, fifteen and nineteen inches, respectively, the -foundation of the plan will be laid. Now, divide the fourth circle into -fifths and draw a half circle 4½ by 14 feet or inches on the circle of -each fifth by placing the point of the compass midway between the fourth -and third circle. This will leave a crescent-shaped bed. Mark off from -each side of these half circles or crescents, on the space between the -third and fourth circle, two and one-half feet for paths. Making the -lines parallel with the crescents, the remaining spaces will form -triangular beds, that for convenience may be called the third or outer -row of beds. - -[Illustration: KEY TO HARDY BORDER. PLATE II.] - - Name of Plant. Color. Height. Season of Bloom. - - Feet, Inches. - - - 1. Hypericum Yellow 1 6 All summer. - - 2. Deutzia Gracilis White 1 8 May, June. - - 3. Lychnis Roseum Pink 1 8 All summer. - - 4. Spiræa Filipendula White 1 0 May, June. - - 5. Platycodon Blue 2 0 All summer. - - 6. Anemone Whirlwind White 3 0 September, October. - - 7. Spiræa Anthony Crimson 2 to 4 0 May, sometimes all - Waterer summer. - - 8. White Foxglove White 3 0 All summer. - - 9. Scarlet Lychnis Scarlet 3 0 All summer. - - 10. White Foxglove White 3 0 All summer. - - 11. Lychnis Splendens Red 3 0 June, July. - - 12. White Veronica White 2 0 August, September. - - 13. Blue Veronica Blue 2 0 July, August. - - 14. Spiræa Van Houttei White 3 0 May, June. - - 15. Monkshood Fischeri Pale 4 0 September, October. - Blue - - 16. Hollyhocks in Var. 4 to 5 0 Summer, fall. - - 17. Monkshood, Uncinatum Dark 4 0 June, August. - Blue - - 18. Bocconia Cream 5 to 6 0 July, August. - - 1. Tall Shrubs. 2. Low Shrubs. 3. Herbaceous Pereum. - x x Hardy Lilies. —— — Edging Plants. - -Now if radiating lines be drawn from the corners of the crescents to the -centre of the plan the point where they cross the third circle will be -the upper corners of the first row of beds—the lower corners being -formed by the point where the radii from the centre and left corners of -the crescents cross the second circle; the third and second circles -forming the upper and lower sides; the ends being formed by curved lines -drawn from the upper to the lower corners. Or, having completed the row -of five crescents and five triangular beds, mark off with pole or ruler -radiating lines from the corners and centre of each crescent to the -centre of plan; the point where these radii from the circle of crescents -cross the third circle will be the upper corner of the first row of -beds; the lower corners being formed by the radii from the centre and -left-hand corner of crescents; the ends being formed by curved concave -lines from upper to lower corner—the intervening spaces forming paths. - - - For Laying Out the Beds - -Use a long pole with a sharp stake passed through a hole at one end and -fastened with a nail driven through it horizontally, so that it can turn -easily, with a number of holes for pegs at the required distances—six, -eight and one-half, twelve and one-half, fifteen and nineteen feet. -Drive the movable stake firmly into the ground, and do not remove until -the work is finished. Slip the sharp marking peg into the hole, which it -should fit closely, and mark out the circles. For the half circles, or -crescents, a nine-foot stick laid straight across the edge of fourth -circle will give an approximate fifth, the loss in the curve about -equalling the fractional loss caused by multiplying by three alone. -Drive a peg with a stick or string attached into the path a foot inside -the third line and mark the circles on it; mark the paths by lengthening -the stick or string two and a half feet and drawing sections of circles -on each side of the half circles from the fourth to the fifth circles. -Now bring the end of the long pole to the left corner of half circle and -mark the radiating lines and half lines to the centre, and mark off the -first row of beds as you did on paper. In this way almost any form of -flowerbed may be laid out. The following diagrams for foliage-beds on -the lawn will be helpful. - - - For a Twelve-foot Foliage-bed - -One Ricinus in centre; three Ricini four feet from first, an equal -distance apart—or about eight feet. Alternate with these three clumps of -tall-growing Cannas. Surround with a row of scarlet Salvias, set one -foot from edge of bed and twenty inches apart. Edge with Little Gem -Sweet Alyssum. - -[Illustration: - - PLATE III. - - PLAN FOR ROSE-GARDEN AND FOLIAGE-BED.] - - - Another Twelve-foot Bed - -One Ricinus in centre, surrounded at three feet distance by six of the -largest sized Caladiums three feet apart. The third row, three feet -outside, to be composed of low-growing Cannas—Queen Charlotte, Chicago, -Florence Vaughan, or Papa—eighteen inches apart. Edge with dwarf -Nasturtiums. - - - Nine-foot Bed - -One Ricinus trimmed in umbrella form—that is, the lower leaves removed -so that the upper may serve as a shade for the Cannas. First row, six -Allemannia Cannas; second row, twelve inches outside, twelve Burbank -Cannas, fourteen inches apart; third row, twenty-five Italia Cannas, -fourteen inches apart. Edge with Coleus, set fifteen inches apart. - - - Nine-foot Bed - -Centre three discolour Cannas, grouped in the corner. First row, twelve -Black Beauty Cannas, eighteen inches apart; second row, eighteen inches -outside, twelve large Caladiums, twenty-seven inches apart. - - - Twelve-foot Bed - -Three Ricini in group, equal distance apart. First row, three feet out, -scarlet Salvias, twenty inches apart; second row, twelve inches out, -white-flowered Vincas, twelve inches apart. Edge with scarlet Phlox -Drummondii or blue Tom Thumb Ageratum, six inches apart. - - - Nine-foot Bed of Ornamental Grasses - -Large clump of Arundo Donax in centre. First row, three feet out, three -Erianthus Ravennæ, six feet apart; second row, twelve Eulalia gracillima -univittata, two feet apart. - - - Eight-foot Bed - -A large clump of Setaria magna in the centre. First row, Coix lachryma, -eighteen inches apart; second row, twenty inches out, Pennisetum -Ruppellianum, eighteen inches apart. - - * * * * * - -I cannot too highly recommend the planting of ornamental grasses on the -lawn. They are extensively used in parks and in other public grounds, -but not nearly so extensively as they should be on private grounds. Many -of them are perfectly hardy, and once established grow in beauty from -year to year; others in the Northern States may be easily wintered in -the cellar, while still others may be cheaply and easily raised from -seed each year. - - - - - Chapter _TWO_ - Soils - - -In every garden the matter of soil is of first importance. In case of an -outdoor garden the existing conditions will largely determine the class -of plants to be grown. - -A good loam—that is a non-coherent mixture of clay and sand with a -proportion of such decayed vegetable matter as leaves and the fibrous -roots of grasses—is the best garden soil, being what is termed warm and -early. Soil containing a good proportion of sand is warm, while a -preponderance of clay makes what is known as cold or wet soil. - -If there is good drainage, cold soil can be rendered lighter, sandier -and more friable by the liberal application of manure, which in two or -three years will quite change its character. But this is a long time to -wait, and to get quick results it will be necessary, after laying out -the garden and outlining the beds, to remove the earth to a depth of -twenty inches or more, filling in with soil suitable for the class of -plants to be grown in each bed. In the beds intended for Roses, however, -the clay may be left, as Roses require this soil. Where it is not -present it should be supplied and added to each year, as the heavy -manuring which Roses require constantly reduces the relative proportion -of clay. For the Pansy bed nothing better than leaf-mould from the woods -can be procured. For this bed remove six or eight inches of earth, spade -in a good supply of old, well-rotted manure from the cow-stable, -top-dress with several inches of leaf-mould. You will have a bed that -will give magnificent Pansies and few weeds. For the Salvia, Canna, -Ricinus, Caladium and other strong-growing plants no soil is better than -the muck or peat of swamps—soil composed of partly carbonised vegetable -matter decomposed by the action of water. Leaf-mould consists of -vegetable matter which has decayed without being submerged, and it -usually contains a liberal quantity of sharp, white sand, to which it -owes its friable, non-adhesive character. Leaf-mould is commonly found -around decayed stumps and in hollow places in the woods, where the -leaves have drifted and decayed. It is ready for immediate use. Muck or -peat, however, which is found in bogs and swamps, is unfit for garden -use when freshly dug—except for aquatic plants—being tough and fibrous. -It should therefore be dug during the summer, thrown in a heap and left -for the winter frost to rot and render tractable. For immediate use the -best method is to place it in a deep hole in the bed and cover with -several inches of loam, or old muck. If this is kept worked or mulched -to exclude air and retain the moisture in the muck, excellent results -may be secured. The bed may also be partly filled with muck and covered -with loam, the whole object being to prevent the muck drying out into -hard lumps, as it will, when green, on exposure to sun and air. The -following spring the loam may be spaded into the muck, giving a warm, -mellow, exceedingly rich soil that will grow anything. The importance of -starting out with good soil cannot be too strongly urged. It seems at -first sight to call for a considerable expenditure of time and -money—especially where the earth must be purchased and the labour paid -for—but in the long run it is a decided saving. - -With unsuitable soil there must be many failures, resulting in loss of -both plants and seeds, and this in itself is no small expense. The -labour of caring for such a garden is many times greater, for the -top-dressing of manure required produces an incessant crop of weeds, -which must be removed, not once, but many times during the summer, while -beds filled with leaf-mould or muck need but one or two weedings. The -weeds which grow naturally in these soils do not flourish in the open -ground. A few Smartweeds and Nettles may be expected in the one case, -and Violets and Spring-beauties in the other. In the manured garden soil -an endless procession of Purslane, Malice, Ragweed and the like must be -constantly watched for. The presence of clay and gravel in the soil -always renders it hard and given to caking, necessitating frequent -cultivation; while muck-beds, after the preliminary spading in the -spring, remain free and mellow throughout the season. - -Replacing soil presents more difficulties to city dwellers than to those -living in the country, or in small towns, but, as there are in the -vicinity of most of our cities rich peat lands, it ought not to be -difficult to obtain one or two loads of this useful material. Near the -small towns are always to be found farmers who own or live near -marsh-land, and can supply muck, especially where they have been -ditching. A good waggon-load may be had at prices ranging from fifty -cents to two dollars, according to the distance to be hauled. The cost -in the city would, of course, be much greater. - -It is well for the amateur gardener to learn early in her experience to -keep her eyes open to all things pertaining to the success of the -garden. When driving, note the marsh-lands easily accessible from the -highway, especially where they have been ditched or partially reclaimed, -and interview the owner or tenant. In the dull season on the farm the -owner of such soil may be glad to earn an extra dollar or two, and it -may also be suggested to the farmers’ boys, who have marsh-and -wood-lands, that they may earn pocket-money by calling on people known -to be cultivating flowers or building new homes, to solicit their -orders. Many people who grow flowers do not know where to apply for -earth, and an advertisement in a local paper would, doubtless, prove -advantageous to customer and purveyor. On hillsides along the road, and -places which the rain has washed, one may gather quantities of pure -white or grey sand for potting. Yellow sand is not suitable for such -use, as it contains much clay and cakes badly after watering, while the -white or grey sand remains line and loose. - -Leaf-mould is not so readily procurable, as it must be gathered from -suitable patches through the woods, and the farmers do not like to -bother with it. Besides, they are likely to dig up much undesirable -under-soil. It is better to go one’s self for this. A still better way -is to make your own leaf-mould. Thus: when sod is removed from the -ground for any purpose, shake out the fine soil that adheres to it for -future use; or slice off the fine roots with a sharp knife just below -the crown of the grass. This is known as fibrous loam, and, in -combination with leaf-mould, old manure and fine, sharp sand, makes the -very finest potting soil. Throw the tops of the sods in a heap in some -out-of-the-way corner and add the rakings of the yard in fall and -spring, all weeds pulled during the summer, all vegetable refuse, -potato-parings, apple-peelings, corn-husks, and berry-hulls—anything -that has vegetable matter and will decay. All dish-water and slops that -are not needed on the garden may be thrown on the pile, which should be -turned over occasionally during the winter. By the following spring you -will have the finest kind of leaf-mould. Not all of the pile will have -decayed, but along the sides and underneath it will be found ready for -use. Add to it every bit of available vegetable matter during the year, -including the annual flowers pulled up after their season of bloom, the -tops of such root-plants as Cannas, Caladiums, Gladioli, etc., and you -will soon have a supply quite adequate to the needs of an ordinary -garden. Where there are water-works the hose may be turned on frequently -to hasten decomposition. If it is impossible to replace all poor soil in -the garden with better, by the addition of leaf-mould and manure, much -may be accomplished in the way of building up the old and rendering it -suitable. - -If the plot to be used can be ploughed up, well manured, and sown to -clover, the clover turned under in the fall, a good top-dressing of -manure given, and the whole turned again in the spring, the soil should -be in good garden condition. - -Where the soil is a good, warm loam the addition of fertilisers will -always give excellent results, though there is the disadvantage of weeds -and extra cultivation to consider. The first cost of suitable earth is -great, but it pays in the end in the saving of fertilisers, labour, -expensive seeds and flowers. - - - - - Chapter _THREE_ - Fertilisers - - -Fertilisers in the form of animal manures, chemicals or vegetable matter -come next in importance to a good soil. Horse, cow, sheep, and poultry -droppings are the cheapest and most direct in results. Of the four, cow -manure is probably the best for the majority of plants, especially -Pansies, Iris, Violets, Ferns and others which love a cool soil. Cow -manure is known as a cool manure, and is suitable for a warm or sandy -soil. Horse manure, which is more heating, especially when from young -stock, is better on cold or clayey soil, as it has the effect of -breaking up the adhesiveness of the clay and promoting the formation of -sand. Hen manure is very warm and is therefore most suitable for cold -soils. Sheep manure is especially desirable for Roses and house-plants, -about one part manure to six of earth being the proportion. - -Good results may be obtained by the use of any or all of these, if in -the proper condition and judiciously applied. Manure is in proper -condition when it has passed completely through the heating or -fermenting stage. Fresh manure should never be placed where it, or the -water that leaches from it, can possibly come in contact with the -plants; manure should be six months or, better still, a year old before -being used. Old and well-rotted manure has much the appearance of rich, -black earth, and is readily assimilated by the plants. It should be fine -and free from such rough litter as corn-stalks, cobs, and long straws, -and should be thoroughly mixed with the soil. As manure is full of the -seeds of weeds and grasses, it is better, when applying it in the -spring, to remove a portion of the top-soil and work the manure into the -subsoil by spading, and then to return the top-soil. This will prevent -their germination and save a great deal of weeding during the summer. - -Manure that retains its original form is too fresh to use and should be -thrown in a heap and frequently forked over to hasten decomposition. It -will be fit by another season, but older stuff must be procured for -present use. Where there is room it is a wise provision to keep a pile -of manure from year to year, in order to avoid the inconvenience of -looking for it when you need it. No better expenditure can be made by -the gardener than in purchasing several loads of old manure, when it is -discovered in some neighbouring barn-yard. If one has no supply and must -purchase, the matter should be attended to in the fall at latest, to -allow ample time for saving it. Farmers usually draw the manure on the -land as it accumulates, so that it is difficult to obtain in the spring. - -Ashes contain a certain amount of phosphates, which tend to sweeten the -soil. They are also beneficial in increasing the strength or stiffness -of the stalks, and for this reason are valuable for Aster and Gladiolus -beds; they should never be mixed with manure, as is frequently done, but -should be strewn over the surface of the soil after the other -fertilisers are worked in. Ashes mixed with manure release the ammonia -of the latter, depriving it of one of its most valuable properties. -Ammonia itself is not a fertiliser but a stimulant, creating in the -plant a desire for the food stored up in the manure—in other words, an -appetiser. Plants, like people, will not eat unless they have an -appetite, and manure mixed with ashes is poorer and much less valuable -in every way to the farmer and gardener. Soot is another excellent -chemical fertiliser, adding much to the richness of colour in both -flower and foliage. Apply either dry or mixed with the surface-soil, or -in the form of a tea made by pouring water over the soot in a vessel. -Draw off the liquid after the mixture has settled and apply it around -the roots of the plants, taking care that it does not touch the foliage. -It is especially good for Pansies and Roses. - -Manure-water is a good way to apply animal fertiliser, as it is fairly -free from the seeds of weeds, which constitute the chief drawback to the -solid form. To prepare it take a water-tight barrel or half-barrel and -put a spigot in the side near the bottom. Place three or four inches of -clean straw in the barrel, letting it come well up above the spigot, -then fill half full of manure. It is not necessary that the manure -should be so very old; it needs only to have passed the fermentation -period. Fill the barrel with water. Fit a tight cover over it and it is -soon ready to use. As long as the liquid runs the colour of coffee or a -strong tea the manure will not need renewing, and more water may be -added from time to time, but when it shows signs of exhaustion empty the -barrel, put the refuse on the compost heap and fill the barrel as -before. If the liquid is to be used on pot-plants it will be better to -use boiling water in the barrel to destroy the eggs and chrysalis of the -white-worms and other larvæ that infest the manure; or add a half -teaspoonful of Paris green to the water. The first drawings from the -barrel should be well diluted before using, especially when applied to -dry soil. If hen manure is used, it should be made much weaker than -other manures, as it is very heating and likely to burn the roots of -plants. A convenient way to handle the manure barrel is to carry a -watering-pot of water to the barrel each time, emptying it in at the top -and drawing off a corresponding amount at the spigot—in this way the -barrel is kept constantly full and extra steps saved. Liquid manure may -also be prepared by filling a pail half full of manure, adding boiling -water, and dipping off the liquid when the sediment is settled. - -[Illustration: MANURE WATER IS A GOOD WAY TO APPLY ANIMAL FERTILISER] - -After a heavy rain there will often be a pool in some corner of the -barn-yard where sufficient liquid manure may be dipped up to fill a -barrel or hogshead. Where the barn-yard is paved with cobble-stones—as -all barnyards should be, for health and cleanliness—a catch-basin may be -easily arranged which the natural slope of the land will fill when it -rains. This will more than pay for the trifling outlay for its -construction, as it need only be a depression in the soil, covered with -cement. Even stiff clay will answer. It is surprising how carelessly -farmers let such valuable property go to waste while they buy load after -load of manure at the stables in town and haul it long distances. The -yield of the strawberry-and asparagus-beds alone would be sufficiently -increased to pay for such a catch-basin many times over. - -Soapsuds furnish another excellent fertiliser, and every drop of water -from the wash-room, bed-room and kitchen should be saved and applied -around the roots of plants—especially Roses, Dahlias, and vines, which -never seem to get enough of either moisture or nourishment. Slop-water -should not be put on the foliage of plants, as it leaves a scum that is -difficult to get rid of. - -A very good substitute for commercial bone-meal may be manufactured at -home by saving all the bones from the kitchen, throwing them into a -stone jar, covering them with strong lye, and allowing them to remain -until soft enough to be pulverised and dug into the soil. The lye that -remains may also be applied to the soil after being diluted with water. -Blood obtained at the slaughter-house is an excellent fertiliser, -containing much easily assimilated plant food in a soluble form. -Feathers contain much valuable material in the way of phosphates, but -are not suitable for the annual beds. They may be applied to shrubs and -hardy perennials by digging them into the ground at a little distance -from the plants, where the roots will reach out and find them. -Hoof-parings from the blacksmith shop are also valuable for the -perennial bed. Indeed, with all the forms of plant food available there -is no excuse for starving plants. There are, of course, many commercial -plant foods and fertilisers on the market, bone-meal and guano being the -most reliable among them, but many of them are expensive and uncertain -in their action. Being highly concentrated they are likely to do harm in -the hands of the inexperienced. The natural manures are the safest. - -In using liquid manures either on the open ground or on potted plants, -they should only be applied when the soil has been well watered the day -before, never when it is dry. The plant, being supplied with all it -needs to drink, absorbs only what it requires for nourishment and is -less likely to be injured by an overdose. The moisture in the soil -serves also to reduce the strength of the manure. - -In applying old cow or horse manure to new beds a wheel-barrow load to -every nine square feet is not too much for strong growing plants such as -Ricinus, Cannas, and Salvias. Half that quantity of hen manure will be -sufficient. - - - - - Chapter _FOUR_ - The Hotbed, Cold-Frame and Sand-box - - -The hotbed is an enclosure, affording bottom heat and protection from -cold, for the propagation of tender plants unsuited to sowing in the -open ground, and for starting plants too early in the season for -open-air operations. The hotbed is usually started in February or March -in the latitude of Philadelphia, while April is early enough in the -latitude of Detroit and Chicago. Plants are transferred to the open -ground when all danger of frost is past. With the exception of a few -plants like Poppies, which do not bear disturbance, all seeds yield -better results if planted where they have protection in their early -stages from drying wind, burning sun and nipping cold. This protection -the cold-frame gives, while the hotbed affords the additional advantage -of artificial heat. Plants thus started will be ready to transplant -about the time seeds could be started in the open ground—an important -gain in northern latitudes, where, between the early and late frosts -there is hardly time for the maturing of annuals. - -The hotbed should be situated on the south side of a building, wall or -fence, where it will have the full benefit of the sun and be protected -from cold winds. It is also desirable that the land should slope toward -the south, that all surface water may drain away, and that the bed may -receive the greatest amount of sunshine during the day. In constructing -a hotbed dig a pit two feet deep. This may be lined with planks or -bricks, or left with its earthen walls. Over this build a frame of rough -lumber around four posts of three-or four-inch stuff, three feet two -inches high in the back, and two feet eight inches high in the front. If -the pit is not lined, this will bring the frame below the surface and -allow a sufficient slant for the free shedding of water and the -concentration of the greatest amount of sunshine on the bed. Regular -hotbed sash are three feet by six, and cost about two dollars and -seventy-five cents each, glazed and painted. These are usually arranged -to rest on the frame, simply sliding up and down, the size of the bed -determining the number of sash. A bed three by six, however, is more -easily handled than a larger one; and two or more beds, set end to end, -or one long, narrow one divided by partitions into three-by-six beds, -will be more satisfactory in every way than a wider one. The partitions -are necessary, not alone to strengthen the frame and support the sash, -but to insure to each section the special treatment it requires. Not all -seeds germinate in the same temperature, or require the same degree of -moisture. There is, also, a great difference in the period of -germination; some seeds sprout in from three to five days; others -require as many weeks. With separate sections seeds of similar habits -and requirements may be planted together. - -Florists’ sash makes an expensive hotbed, and quite as satisfactory -results may be obtained by using such old window-sash as may be picked -up for about twenty-five cents apiece where buildings are being torn -down or from junk or hardware dealers. Old sash will probably need some -glazing and painting, and these are among the things the amateur -gardener should learn to do for herself, as sash must be water-tight and -in order at all times. A sudden hail-storm, a mischievous cat or -careless handling may leave one with broken glass that must be replaced -at once. When old sash is used the back of the frame should be higher -than the sides by the thickness of the sash, so that the sash may be -fastened to it with hinges if desired. A cross-piece from the back to -the front for the sash to rest on will give greater stability and -prevent draughts of cold air on a sudden fall of temperature. - -[Illustration: WHEN PLANTS APPEAR TOO THICKLY IN THE ROWS, TRANSPLANT] - -[Illustration: A WELL-CONSTRUCTED HOTBED] - -Having constructed the pit, fill it with fresh manure from the -horse-stable—that from young, grain-fed stock being best. It must be -perfectly fresh, gathered from the stalls in the morning, and should be -mixed with a quantity of litter—long straw or leaves. This serves as -fuel, insuring a continuous heat. Without it the heat germinated by the -manure would quickly die out and the bed become cold. Throw the manure -loosely into the frame, close the sash and wait for fermentation or -heating. This should take place in from twelve to twenty-four hours; if -longer than that it will be as well to throw out the manure and begin -again, making sure this time that the manure is absolutely fresh. When -the thermometer by rising to 100 or more degrees shows that fermentation -is well under way, the manure should be well tramped down, as level and -smooth as possible. Over this place a couple of inches of fine, old, -well-rotted manure. This will afford nourishment for the young plants -should they make sufficient growth to need it, or on account of stress -of weather be detained in the hotbed longer than expected. If this is -not supplied the tender roots of the plants are apt to go in search of -the crude manure in the bottom of the hotbed, and be injured by contact -with it. When plants that have come up thrifty suddenly turn yellow and -look as if they had been scalded, though sufficiently protected from the -sun, it is probable that their roots have been burned by the manure. -This may be determined by digging down to the roots. If they have -reached the manure the cause is evident; other plants in the same beds, -with shallower roots, it will be observed, are not affected in the same -way. As this is not likely to happen until the plants have made -considerable growth the season will probably be enough advanced to -permit of planting out, especially with protection at night, or they may -be transplanted into the cold-frame until the weather is warm. Such -mishaps seldom occur, but when they do, they must be met promptly. Few -plants will make over four inches of roots before transplanting, and -when they reach the old manure they usually spread out without going -deeper. - -To return to the construction of the hotbed: Cover the manure with four -inches of rich, fine loam, free from rough lumps and stone; it would -better be put through a sand-or coal-sieve if not mellow and fine. Make -as level as possible, and place a thermometer in the soil to register -the temperature. When it has risen to 90 degrees or above, and then -fallen to 75 or 70 degrees, the seed may be sown. - -In planting seed it is best to use narrow strips of wood to separate the -different varieties. This prevents mixing and running together when -watered. It is impossible to distinguish between different varieties of -Asters, Ageratums and Pansies once they have become mixed. Where one -lives within reach of a box factory narrow strips of wood—admirable for -this purpose—of uniform width and very thin, may be readily obtained. It -is best to begin at the upper right-hand corner with seeds that require -the most time to germinate, labelling each section plainly with name, -date and the period of germination. - -Flowers that make the tallest growth may be placed against the back with -advantage—as Cobæa scandens, Ricinus, the Dolichos, Cosmos, and the -like; giving them the advantage of the extra light and keeping them from -withholding the light from the plants in front of them. - -Coarse seeds should be planted in drills and covered to twice their -depth. A furrow may be scratched with a sharp stick from an eighth to a -half-inch deep, and the seed sown thinly in it, the earth being replaced -and pressed firmly down with a piece of wood. This is important, as it -brings the seed in close contact with the earth, and the tiny sprout can -lay hold of it at once when germination takes place. Many seeds of weak -germinating power are lost when sown in loose, coarse soil by failure to -obtain immediate contact with the nourishment contained in it. - -Fine seeds like Petunias, Nicotianas and Ageratums must be sown -broadcast in little squares reserved for them. Sow on the surface, press -into the soil with a piece of board and merely sift fine sand over. - -A piece of thin wood eight or ten inches long and four or five inches -wide, with a handle on one side, will be found very useful to press the -soil down quickly and firmly. This should be an adjunct to every -well-regulated hotbed. So should a thermometer, hung on the back wall of -the hotbed, the bulb level with the soil. After the seeds are all sown, -if the soil is at all dry, sprinkle carefully with a rubber sprinkler, -or a whisk-broom dipped in water and shaken over the bed. Do not use the -watering-pot, as it will wash the seed out of the ground. When the -plants are up and of some size the watering-pot may be resorted to, but -not before. When all the seeds are sown as directed cover with -newspapers and close the sash. - -The most careful attention must now be given the hotbed. If the -temperature rises above 75 degrees in the warmest part of the day the -sash must be raised an inch or two. In doing this, if the wind is cold, -it will be best to slip a strip of wood between the sash and frame on -the windward side, or protect the opening on the windward side with a -bit of carpet. - -When the seeds in any particular plot show a single pair of leaves, -remove the paper over that much of the bed, still shading from the sun -during the hottest part of the day by a bit of paper on the glass -directly over the plants. When the plants appear too thickly in the row, -transplant them as soon as they have their second leaves into other rows -between the first, or into another hotbed or cold-frame. Encourage -vigorous growth by giving room to develop and as much air and light as -possible. - -As soon as the plants are of sufficient size and the weather is warm -enough, remove the sash during the day, replacing it with screens made -of lath. These screens are easily made by nailing strips of lath, the -width of the hotbed, to strips of wood the length of the bed. The lath -should be set its own width apart, and the nails, of which there should -be two in each end, clinched on the under side. Such screens are a -necessary part of the hotbed, and will last for years. - -Before transplanting to the open ground these screens should be removed -entirely and the plants left exposed to the weather for a few days to -harden. Screens of chicken netting may be substituted, if protection -from cats, dogs or chickens is needed. If, in the early stages of the -hotbed, drops of moisture gather on the glass, the soil is too wet and -the sash must be raised to allow the surplus moisture to pass off, -avoiding always a cold draught across the bed. - -The cold-frame is simply a frame of boards fitted with sash and placed -over a prepared bed of earth. As the bed will be raised slightly above -the surface of the soil, the frame should be set over it, shutting out -the cold from the sides as well as the top. A covered bed, prepared -without heating material, is a cold-frame; and one in which the heating -material is spent is often used as a cold-frame after it has served its -purpose as a hotbed earlier in the season, for growing Gloxinias and -rooting cuttings during the summer, and in August for sowing Pansy seed -for the next summer’s blooming. Cold-frames are useful to protect beds -of such tender perennials as Tea-roses, Pansies, Canterbury-bells, -Foxgloves and Violets. Violets may, by this means, be kept in bloom -during the winter. They are also useful for bringing forward, early in -spring, beds of Hyacinths and Narcissi. They should be protected by -carpets or mattings at night and during the colder days, and exposed to -the heat of the sun on bright days when the soil is not frozen. When it -is, they must remain covered and thaw out in the dark, to be aired when -the weather is above freezing, but draughts across the bed must be -avoided, as they will certainly blast any buds there may be. - -The cold-frame in winter must have good drainage, or much damage will -ensue from water standing around the roots of plants. The surface of the -bed must be above the level of the land outside and a trifle lower at -one corner. From this corner a trench should be dug having an outlet, or -a deep hole may be dug and filled with broken crockery and stones to -carry off all surplus water. - -The sand-box is a receptacle for the summer storage of plants which are -not to be bedded out. It is also used to prepare plants for winter -blooming, and for experiments with novelties in house-plants. It is, -finally, the ideal place for rooting cuttings. I have never known a -plant capable of being started from cuttings that would not take root in -the sand-box. Any shallow box that may be reached across easily is -suitable for this purpose; or a deep box may be cut down to six or eight -inches and rendered available, the length depending on the plants to be -accommodated and the room at disposal. The sand-box should be placed, if -possible, in a convenient place on the east side of the house. Elevate -on saw-horses, blocks, posts or a regular frame to a height easy to -reach when sitting in a chair. Fill nearly full with clean white sand; -in this bury the pots nearly to the brims and keep the sand constantly -wet. - -Plants that can stand full sunshine—as Geraniums, Crotons, Heliotropes, -etc.—should be placed in front; those requiring more shade may be in the -second row, and those needing the most against the wall. Vines, also, -may be trained against the wall, and over the sides of the box, if it is -desired to make it beautiful as well as useful. A wooden chair should be -placed conveniently near, and the space underneath may be utilised for -ferns, or the storage of tools and pots. - -Once established, the sand-box will be found one of the most fascinating -of spots. Cuttings of all kinds may be thrust into the sand between the -pots—Geraniums, Carnations and Roses in front. Gloxinias and -Begonias—with the leaves laid flat on the sand in the rear—will quickly -take root in it. No one who cultivates a garden, or house-plants, should -try to get along without a work table or bench, and this should be -situated in some cool, shady spot out of doors. It may be either a large -kitchen table or a large packing box, the latter being preferable, -perhaps, as affording shelter for the various tools used in working. It -should be high enough to work at conveniently when standing up, and a -tall stool should be provided for sitting on when desired, to be pushed -under the top of table when not in use. There should be a shelf -underneath, sufficiently roomy to hold a supply of pots and flats, and, -below it, a box of potting soil and one of fine white sand should be -kept ready for use. If the potting soil lies on the ground it will keep -moist in the dryest weather. A tin pail of pebbles, broken crockery and -charcoal for drainage, and a supply of sphagnum moss should also be kept -handy. A trowel, knife, shears, pencils and a stick—or, better still, a -piece of a broken carving-steel—for pushing a plant out of the pot by -inserting it in the drainage hole when, for any reason, it is not -readily removed by tapping, will greatly lessen the labour of repotting -and shifting house-plants in summer. - -A shallow tray, with a bail of wood, large enough to hold a number of -pots, will be useful to carry plants from the potting table to the -sand-box, and will save many steps. With a well-equipped table to depend -on and no litter around the house, one is much more likely to give -plants necessary attention promptly. The work then becomes a pleasure -instead of a labour to be dreaded. There, too, may be kept the supply -for staking plants. The nicest stakes for house-plants are made of -Cat-tail stems, any quantity of which may be gathered in the fall and -stored away for future use, each stalk furnishing two or three stakes. -Being round and smooth they are sightly and just what is needed for -Carnations, Freesias and the like. - - - - - Chapter _FIVE_ - Purchasing of Seeds - - -Buying seeds is largely a matter of experience. So glowing are the -descriptions in the numerous catalogues sent out that one may easily be -led into ordering many worthless novelties, and many desirable ones for -which there is neither room nor sufficient knowledge of their wants to -grow them successfully. Cheap collections, where one is requested to -send ten cents for a catalogue and twelve packages of seeds, are worst -of all. - -In buying flower-seeds, as in everything else, one never gets “something -for nothing”—not even experience, and cheap seeds usually prove a very -poor investment; the only safeguard is to buy of trustworthy dealers -whose seeds are offered at fair prices. Take, for instance, Pansy seed: -one ought not to expect to buy a fine mixture in a full-size packet—two -hundred and fifty seeds—for less than twenty-five cents, while such -varieties as Giant Trimardeau and Giant Cassier should be fifteen cents -or more, according to the place of purchase. A few of the old -favourites—like the Snow Queen—may be bought in packets costing from -three to five cents and prove good value. But generally speaking, -packets selling for less than five cents are to be looked upon with -suspicion. Seeds bought at the grocer’s or other local dealer’s are -likely to be old or inferior stock—the better class of seedsmen selling -direct to the consumer only. At the end of every season seedsmen have a -large stock left over. The best concerns destroy these, but the less -scrupulous put them up as prizes for advertising purposes, or sell them -to the local dealers. - -Some varieties of seeds retain vitality for years, like the -Morning-glory, while others lose vitality in a few months or weeks, like -the perennial Phlox, which must be sown as soon as ripe. From this it -can be readily seen how worthless some of the seed carried over from -year to year must be. As an experiment, I planted under glass in the -house, with more than usual care, a part of one of these trial packages -of twelve for a quarter. From five of the packages I got just one -plant—a Lantana, while from the sixth I grew a number of inferior -Petunias. In striking contrast to this I planted, under the same -conditions, a packet of Bush Hill Pioneer Cyclamen containing twelve -seeds, for which I paid fifty cents, and secured eleven plants, every -one of which lived, making four and a half cents apiece for a very -choice variety of Cyclamen, while the one little common Lantana cost me -ten cents. - -The prices of one firm will frequently be much higher than those of -another equally trustworthy, the difference being caused, in most cases, -by the number of seeds in the packets. A few firms now state the number -of seeds in their price-lists. This should become the general practice. -There is manifest injustice in selling packets containing a quantity -which is entirely problematical, and often much below what the purchaser -has a right to expect. To advertise seeds much under the usual price and -reduce the number accordingly is a common practice. - -It is better to buy a few good seeds, and by careful cultivation bring -the plants as near perfection as possible, than to buy a quantity of -cheap seeds. One can join with a friend or neighbour and thus secure a -larger variety at less cost than would otherwise be possible. Generally -speaking I think it a great mistake to save one’s own seed. Few choice -varieties are fixed and so tend to run out in two or three seasons. From -fine strains of Asters you may save seed that will give good results the -first year, but flowers grown from seed saved from these will show more -or less centre, so that fresh seed should be purchased every other year -at least. As the bees do not visit the Asters so assiduously as other -flowers, they are less given to hybridisation and come quite true from -seed; the trouble with them being deterioration. The first flower on the -plant is usually the best, and should be reserved for seed by tying a -string around it and labelling it, if it is desired to keep the -varieties separate. Remove all other blooms on the plant, as they fade, -allowing only the one selected to ripen. - -Pansy seed should never be saved, as the ripening of it weakens the -plant and checks its blooming. Pansies growing in a mixed bed never come -true from seed and deteriorate rapidly. Growing Pansy seed is work for -the Pansy specialist, but if it must be saved a few plants should be -grown in a bed by themselves and covered with a netting to keep off the -bees, which work incessantly over the Pansy bed. Not more than two or -three of the finest flowers on a plant should be allowed to seed, all -other buds being removed as they form, and the plants kept in a high -state of cultivation and supplied with liquid manure at least once a -week during the season of seeding. - -Seed may be saved freely from Poppies, as they do not deteriorate -appreciably, and the hybridisation constantly going on results in a -wonderful variety of form and colouring. The ripening of one or two -capsules of seed does not materially affect the period of bloom; but it -is well to mark one blossom on each plant, giving a preference to the -terminal blossom on the main stalk, as being usually the finest. Remove -all other blossoms as they fade. Perennial Poppies will do better, -however, if no seeds are allowed to form. Morning-glories, Cosmos and -Verbenas sow themselves better than the gardener can, the plants being -much more vigorous than from the hand-sown seeds. Verbenas mix badly, -and are apt to hark back to the original purple strain, or come striped. -The seeds of the pink variety come true, I find, and some of the finest -pinks I have seen were from self-sown seed. They range in colour through -all the shades from pink to deep rose. A fair proportion of white may -also be expected, but scarlet and red with a white eye are shy and -rarely appear. - -Nasturtiums rarely come true from seed, and if one desires a particular -colour or shade, she must either buy fresh seed or grow that particular -variety alone. If, however, one simply desires an abundance of bright -flowers with a preponderance of yellow, orange and scarlet, it is worth -while to save seed, as its vitality is remarkable and every seed may be -expected to germinate. - -No variety of Petunia can be depended upon when grown in a mixed bed. A -particularly fine variety may be lifted and planted on the opposite side -of the house, either in the ground or in a window-box, or in a pot in -the house. From one exceedingly fine specimen of the large ruffled -variety, lifted and grown in a window-box on the opposite side of the -house from the Petunia bed, I saved a single pod of seed from which I -grew, the following year, sufficient plants for a large bed. No two of -these were alike in colour, but they retained the immense size, ruffled -edges, velvety texture and beautifully marked throats of the parent -strain; some were a velvety crimson, nearly black, some white with -crimson blotches, and some showed rare shades of grey. - -Sweet Alyssum sows itself, and the trouble is usually not to save but to -get rid of it. Candytuft may be saved, but the fewer flowers allowed to -seed the better for the continuation of bloom. Where one does not -actually need the seed all flowers should be removed as fast as they -fade. No one thing will add so much to the appearance of the garden as -this, as nothing is more untidy than flowers gone to seed. - -Perennials are greatly benefited by having the withered flowers removed; -indeed so noticeable is the advantage that some, like the Monkshood, -will give a second crop of flowers, and those that will not respond in -this way will be more robust and bloom more freely the next year. - -Vincas, too, and Hibiscus bloom more freely if not allowed to seed, -while Coleus should not even be allowed to bloom. Sweet-peas must on no -account be permitted to seed unless grown for the purpose. Seed may be -gathered from the Thunbergia, Maurandya, Adlumia, common Morning-glory -and Hollyhock without risk of deterioration or harm to the vine. -Antirrhinums suffer severely from seed-bearing, while the Ricinus, -Lantanas and Salvias may be allowed to seed freely. Ageratums look rusty -when ripening seed, and it pays to go over them frequently with the -shears; this will keep them fresh and full of bloom until frost. One -flower-head will furnish all the seed one is likely to want. - -All seeds should be gathered when ripe and the foliage dry. They should -be exposed to the air in any convenient receptacle, except in the case -of the Thunbergias, Balsams, and others having pods which snap open and -expel the seeds to a distance. These should be saved in paper bags until -perfectly dry, when they may be freed from their husks by sifting or -winnowing, and stored in paper bags, envelopes, or boxes. It pays to -save the florists’ envelopes for this purpose, as they are already -labelled. Never put seeds away unlabelled, and it is a good idea to add -to the label the date, period of germination, with the colour of the -bloom, height, and other data of interest. It is still better to keep a -book of such information to which one may refer from year to year. There -are frequent doubts concerning some operation—the season of starting the -hotbed, the time it took a certain class of bulbs to bloom after -potting, and the like. In all such cases the note-book offers -unimpeachable evidence. - - - - - Chapter _SIX_ - Starting Seeds in Flats - - -There are many choice seeds, especially in the greenhouse varieties, -that cannot be handled successfully in the hotbed—Begonias, Gloxinias, -Cinerarias, and Primulas among them. All seeds too fine to be covered do -better with house treatment. For starting these the shallow boxes or -flats, as they are called, are used. Shallow cigar-boxes, or the larger -ones sawed in two and the lid nailed on for the extra bottom, make -convenient sizes for the finest seeds. They may be used from year to -year if care is taken to store them away, at the end of the season, -where they will keep dry and ready for use. - -Holes for drainage should be bored in the bottom and covered with bits -of glass or broken crockery. Fill with finely sifted leaf-mould to -within an inch of the top and shake the earth smooth and even. A smooth -piece of board, three inches wide and as long as the inside width of the -flat, with a handle that can be easily grasped, is indispensable for -pressing down the soil, both before and after sowing the seeds. It -should be stored away with the flats at the end of the season. - -Sow very fine seed broadcast, scattering it thinly and evenly over the -surface and pressing it into the soil with the wood. It will be better -to sow only part of a packet at a time. This will usually give all the -plants of a kind wanted at one time, and if success does not follow this -first trial there will be seed left for another sowing. Label plainly -with the name and date of sowing, and, when known, the date of -germination. Give the soil a thorough watering by setting the flat in -lukewarm water until the water rises to the surface, but not above it. -When the entire surface is wet, remove the box, draining off all surplus -water by tipping on one corner, until the water ceases to run off. Cover -the flat with a glass and sheet of white paper and place in a warm -place—a shelf above a coal-stove or radiator is an excellent location, -as it affords the bottom heat so essential in starting tender seeds. -Seeds while germinating need but little light, and a box on a shelf in a -living-room may be so screened as not to be unsightly. A shelf under -another, having a light valance, is an ideal place, as the heat strikes -more on the bottom of the box, leaving the top cool. Coarse seeds may be -sown in rows and lightly covered, or enough fine white sand to merely -cover may be sifted over them. Large seed, like the Asparagus Sprengeri -may be pressed into the soil to twice their depth. Or the soil may first -be covered with a thin layer of fine white sand, and the seeds sown on -this and covered according to need. Sand counteracts the troublesome -tendency to damping off caused by the presence of a minute fungus in the -form of a fine moss or thread-like filaments covering the ground. Since -this is the result of too much moisture, the remedy is to remove the -glass, allowing the surplus moisture to pass off and the dry air to -strike the soil for a short time. Care must be taken that the dryness -does not extend below the surface. Drops of water on the glass indicate -too much humidity. The glass should be removed, wiped, and aired. Where -the plants are not too close together a crochet-hook or hat-pin may be -used to scrape the moss or filament from the earth. This slight -disturbance of the soil often serves to destroy the fungus. If the soil -threatens to become dry, water carefully with a rubber sprinkler. If the -dryness begins in the bottom, water as before by setting the flat in a -pan of water. - -When the plants have their second leaves give more air and remove the -paper; in a day or two set in a light, warm window, screening from the -hot sun by placing a piece of white paper between the box and the window -glass. Leave the glass partly off the flat to admit air, and when the -plants have their first true leaves remove it entirely for a part of the -time. - -[Illustration: STARTING SEEDS IN FLATS] - -When large enough to handle, transplant the seedlings into other flats, -setting them one or two inches apart according to their growth. When the -leaves again touch prick them out in two-inch pots of leaf-mould, -placing a piece of crockery over the drainage hole and filling with -earth to within half an inch of the top. Plunge the pots into a box of -sand in a sunny window until large enough to go out of doors. As soon as -the roots fill the pots shift to a size larger, using compost of two -parts fibrous loam, four parts leaf-mould, one part old, well-rotted -manure, and one part sharp white sand, all thoroughly sifted together. -This is called fine compost, while soils that have not been sifted are -known as rough compost. To remove sticks, stones, or hard bits of root -put through a sand or coal-ash screen. A piece of wire netting slightly -gathered up in the hand makes a convenient screen for a small quantity -and a box with a netting bottom for larger quantities of earth. - -By the time the plants again need shifting it should be warm enough to -bed out all those that are to grow in the open ground, while those -intended for the house must be shifted from pot to pot as they outgrow -their quarters and be given such special treatment as the individual -plants may require, always aiming at as thrifty a growth as possible. -Plants intended for winter blooming must have all their buds removed and -their branches pinched back according to their summer development. - -Weak liquid manure may be given once a week during summer. Keep the sand -in the sand-box wet at all times, but do not over-water. Water -thoroughly and then allow the earth to become nearly dry before watering -again; this alternate moisture and dryness allows the wood to ripen and -make a stockier growth and one that will stand frequent changes of -temperature better than the tender growth induced by over-watering. - - - - - Chapter _SEVEN_ - Transplanting and Repotting - - -Tender annuals should not be planted out of doors until all danger of -frost is past—usually about the twentieth of May in the latitude of -Detroit and Chicago, and correspondingly earlier in the latitude of -Philadelphia. Corn-planting time is safe in all latitudes. Even hardy -annuals, if not too crowded, do better in hotbeds and boxes until the -nights are warm. Vines especially suffer from cold nights and cold -ground, and often receive a set-back from which they may not recover all -summer. - -It is best to prepare the beds a few days in advance that they may -settle, as freshly dug soil is too loose for the roots of tender -seedlings. - -For solid beds of one flower make straight, parallel rows about nine -inches apart for plants like Pansies, and from twelve to eighteen for -Asters and their kind. A most convenient method is to use a board the -length of the bed, or as long as convenient, with the distance between -the plants marked on it. By using a board wide enough to stand or kneel -on, stepping on the bed is avoided. On a round bed the lines may run -straight across or they may radiate from the centre, in which case it -will be necessary to skip a part of every other row, as the rows run -together at the top. - -It is better to transplant on a bright, warm day when the soil is dry -than on a damp or wet one. Never transplant when the soil is wet. Many -people take advantage of an approaching rain to set out plants, but this -is a doubtful practice. If the rain is followed by several days of -cloudy weather, it may do, but if followed by hot sunshine the plants -will suffer more than if first planted in sunshine in hot, dry weather. - -Only as many plants should be lifted from the hotbed at one time as may -be transplanted before they wilt badly. The plants should be well -watered the night before, that they may have a good supply of moisture -stored, and that the soil may be moist and cling closely to their roots. - -With the trowel make a hole deep enough to receive the roots without -crowding, place the plant, fill the hole with water, and when that has -partly disappeared press the earth firmly about the roots. Work the -surface earth fine and smooth about the plant, taking care that it is -perfectly dry. If, after setting the bed, wet spots appear, go over them -carefully with dry earth. _Do not cover or protect in any way_; far more -plants are lost by so-called protection than by any other form of -mismanagement. If the planting has been done properly the roots will -keep cool and damp—the mulch of earth preventing evaporation. This being -the case, the tops will take care of themselves if sun and air have free -access and the wind can sweep across them. Planting, as it is usually -done—with the surface left wet, and the air shut away from the -top—causes the water to evaporate rapidly in the hot air, and the plant -is literally cooked to death. The water applied to the roots at planting -will usually last for several days. The condition of the soil may be -ascertained by removing a portion of the surface. If the earth -underneath is found to be drying out too much make a hole on one side of -the plant and fill it with water as before, carefully replacing the -mulch of dry earth. Should it rain before the plants have become -established the earth must be worked over as soon as it begins to dry -that the moisture may be retained. If these directions are carefully -carried out the tenderest plants may be transplanted in the hottest sun -without injury. Occasionally a plant will wilt from exposure before -planting, but it will be all right the next day—unless it was really -injured before being placed in the ground. I repeat the caution to lift -no more plants at one time than may be set in the ground before they -wilt; to form a fine mulch of dry earth over the soil; to cover plants -in no way, and to use no water on the surface for a few days until they -have become established, which they will indicate by spreading out their -leaves and making ready to grow. This method of planting should be -followed in moving plants from one part of the garden to another, in -resetting clumps of perennials, in bedding out house-plants and those -received by mail. Where these last have had part or all of the soil -removed it will greatly benefit them to set them in pots until these are -filled with roots. - -It is desirable that young plants should be kept growing vigorously all -the time, and frequent shifting is necessary. Whenever the earth becomes -full of roots, or the ball of earth is covered with a network of roots, -the plant should be shifted into a pot a size larger. - -“Shifting” means changing the plant to a pot a size larger without -disturbing the ball of earth, while “repotting” properly means an entire -renewal of the soil, the same sized crock being sometimes used. Shifting -may be done at any time, even though the plant be in full bloom, while -repotting should be done when the plant is dormant, as it is likely to -cause the buds to blast and the foliage to droop. Plants less than a -year old are better shifted than repotted—especially such as have -neither bloomed nor shown any decided tendency to rest. After blooming -and resting, if they are in as large a pot as you care to handle, they -may be repotted in fresh soil, care being taken not to injure the roots, -while dead roots should be removed with the shears. When a plant has -outgrown its pot and it is inexpedient to give it a larger -one—especially if it is not making a very vigorous top growth, part of -the roots may be removed by running a knife down on two sides of the -plant, which should not be disturbed afterward until the roots begin to -grow anew, say, in three or four weeks, when it may be repotted with -good rich soil. - -[Illustration: SIFTING LOAM THROUGH A SIEVE] - -In shifting plants turn them out of the pot without disturbing the ball -of earth. This may be done by placing the hand over the pot, reversing -it and giving it a sharp tap on the edge of the table, which will loosen -it. Sometimes, when a plant has become pot bound, it will stick to the -sides of the pot, when a stick inserted in the drainage hole against the -stone in the bottom will usually loosen it. Having removed the plant -from the pot, take out the old drainage material carefully, place in a -pot a size or two larger an inch or two of broken charcoal covered with -a little sphagnum moss to prevent the earth working into the drainage -and clogging it. Fill in as much earth as the difference in the size of -pot seems to require, working it well up around the sides with the -trowel; press the old pot into this to make a hole the proper size and -shape; place the plant, press the earth around it, and add more if -needed. Water well and return to its place on the shelf or in the -sand-box. - -In potting some plants will require to have the soil pressed much more -firmly around the roots than others. Those which make a soft growth, -such as Impatiens sultana, various Primulas, Cinerarias, and most -tuberous plants, like Begonias and Gloxinias, may be potted rather -loosely, that is, with the earth pressed down lightly. Geraniums should -be potted much more firmly, while such hard-wooded plants as Roses, -Hibiscus, Otaheite Orange and Fuchsias, should be potted very hard -indeed. Many failures in plant growing may be traced to neglect of this -rule. - -Cuttings of common house-plants are so easily rooted that it seems -almost superfluous to give directions for handling them. Geraniums, -Petunias, Coleus, and the like will rarely fail to root if stuck in the -ground by the side of the plant; they will do still better if placed in -the sand-box. On the whole I prefer to set them in small pots of earth -plunged in the sand-box and kept moist, as by this method they do not -suffer the shock of disturbance when ready to pot off. - -A word about the selection of cuttings will not be amiss, as failure to -choose wisely often results in the loss of the cutting, or in a poor or -straggly plant. Quick, tender growths are not suitable for cuttings, -except in the case of the Chinese Hibiscus, where the extreme tips are -used for rooting; hard or woody growths are equally undesirable. The -part where the new wood begins to harden and will break with a snap is -best. No cutting should be over two or three inches long. The little, -stubby side branches on Geraniums are best, and as soon as growth begins -these should be pinched back to within an inch of the ground, or to the -lowest buds on the stalks; this insures a stocky plant, branching close -to the ground. Heliotropes do not root readily and should be started in -wet sand in full sunshine and covered with a glass, which should be -lifted occasionally to allow the surplus moisture to pass off, or in a -bottle of water hung in a sunny window. Rose cuttings are so easily and -so quickly rooted in the sand-box that it seems a waste of time to try -any other way. In cutting Roses for bouquets, during summer, one should -be generous with stems, cutting down to a robust leaf-bud in the axil of -a leaf. After the Roses have faded the stems may be used for cuttings, -dividing them into as many lengths as the buds allow, leaving two or -three buds to a cutting. By this method one may have a large number of -young Rose plants with little trouble and no expense. Coleus cuttings -are quickly rooted by putting them in a glass dish filled with water and -set in a warm place. If in the fall it is desired to save choice -varieties growing on the lawn, large cuttings may be taken of the finest -plants. Grouped together in a bowl, they are sightly and root readily. -As the plants begin to grow they are likely to lose their large -leaves—the new growths starting at the axils of these push them -off—injuring the appearance of the plant. They should be potted off as -soon as possible, the tops pinched out, and the plant encouraged to grow -vigorously. To this end a warm, even temperature is necessary, sudden -chills being fatal. - -Gloxinias may be started in the sand-box by laying a leaf flat on the -sand, in partial shade, covering the stem end with the sand. A callus -will soon form, followed presently by a bulb. This may be as large as a -hazel-nut before top growth begins. When tiny leaves appear the plant -may be lifted and potted and grown until it blooms. It is not necessary -to rest Gloxinias—either from seeds or cuttings—before they have -bloomed. Begonias and Achimenes are rooted in the same way. -Umbrella-plants are started by placing face down in a dish of water in -the sun. Rubber and any other hard-wooded plants may be rooted by making -an incision in the under side of a branch near a leaf, at a point where -the wood has begun to harden, and wrapping the wound in a quantity of -sphagnum moss, kept constantly wet. A thread should be tied to the -branch on the side farthest from the main stalk and attached to a limb -above to hold the cut slightly open that it may quickly become -calloused. After a time roots will make their appearance through the -moss, when the branch may be removed and potted. A method sometimes -employed, when it is desired to save the crown of a plant which has a -leggy or unshapely undergrowth, is to partly sever the stem at the point -at which it is desired to root the plant, cutting out a wedge-shaped -piece and packing with sphagnum moss. Or a small flower-pot, divided in -halves, may be fitted around the cut, the bottom of the pot resting on a -lower limb or other support, and filled with earth or sand kept -constantly moist. - -[Illustration: REPOTTING] - -Cuttings liable to decay, as are some of the Cacti, may often be saved -by tying them to a bit of wood and inserting that in the ground so that -the end of the cutting just rests on the surface. In this way the air -will reach and harden it so that a callus can form. Without the -formation of the callus the sap escapes and the branch withers or -decays. When the callus forms the imprisoned sap goes to the formation -of roots. Some plants form more pronounced calluses than -others—particularly the Gloxinia and Rose. - -Layering is another form of rooting cuttings, and is especially valuable -for Carnations, Honeysuckles, and plants whose branches grow near the -ground or are supple enough to be bent down below its level. A cut -should be made in the under side of a branch just below a joint, the cut -portion brought down below the ground to insure moisture, and bent -sufficiently to spread the cut somewhat, or it may be laid on the -surface and a stone placed at the point of the cut. From a long branch -like the Honeysuckle a number of cuttings may be started at once by -notching the branch in several places and pegging it down, making the -ground higher between each notch that there may be sufficient bend to -the branch to keep the cut open. - - - - - Chapter _EIGHT_ - House-plants From Seeds - - -Raising house-plants from seed is a most fascinating work, and it is -also the most economical way of obtaining a number of choice plants, as -a packet of seeds may be purchased for the price of a single plant. A -package of Geranium seed may give a dozen plants, while a packet of -Gloxinias or Cinerarias may give a hundred or more—the fine seed -germinating more freely than the large. - -Mixed seeds also give a variety, no two plants being identical in bloom, -and, what is most important, seedlings always bloom—while plants from -cuttings are often stubborn in this respect and sometimes refuse to -bloom at all, owing probably to the check received at propagation. A -cutting taken from a vigorous plant, rooting quickly, and continuing to -grow, is quite certain to bloom—while the reverse is the case with one -slow to root and slow to start into growth after rooting. The seedling, -meeting with no check, blossoms in the natural course, and it has the -advantage of growing from the start in the same atmospheric conditions, -and does not suffer the violent change from the moist, warm air of the -greenhouse into the dryer, more uneven temperature of the living-room. - -By sowing seed one obtains a number of plants with the same season of -bloom, making a finer appearance than mixed plants blooming at different -times. A half dozen Cinerarias or Calceolarias in full bloom is a sight -to gladden the heart of the gardener. - -In giving the following cultural details I have selected those seeds -which are always carried in stock and may be depended upon to give good -results in the hands of the amateur. Unless some one particular colour -or marking is desired it is better to purchase the mixed seed—selecting -always the finest, or “extra choice mixed,” which will also be the -highest priced. Never buy cheap seed for house-plants. Exception may, -perhaps, be made in the case of Primroses, which are more inclined to -come true, and it is, for this reason, better to purchase any particular -colours one may wish in separate packets. Some seedsmen now put up -expensive seeds in whole and half-sized packets, and the half packets -will usually give all the plants needed of one kind. The mystery of tint -and colour, only to be revealed at blossom time, is one of the greatest -charms of growing mixed seedlings. - -The Abutilons, or Flowering Maples, if set going any time before April -will flower the same season. Start in the house in flats, and when large -enough to handle transplant into tiny pots in a hotbed or sunny window -and grow on until time to plant in the open ground, shifting as -required. They may also be started in the hotbed, or in a protected bed -in the open ground when the trees are in bloom. Set from one to two feet -apart, according as a close hedge or fine specimen plants are required. -The new California Abutilons present a great diversity of form and -colour—there are beautiful drooping bells, gay little parachutes, -flowers crinkled like crape or shining like satin, some so full as to -appear double. They should be cultivated frequently if grown in the open -ground and potted before the nights become cold, as a chill is often as -harmful as frost, and plants so exposed are likely to lose their -foliage. Plants intended for winter blooming should be lifted while the -days and nights are still warm. - -Asparagus plumosus nanus and A. Sprengeri (emerald feather) may be -started any time in the late winter or early spring. The seeds are large -and should be planted in rows an inch apart each way, pressing them into -the soil a quarter of an inch and covering them over. They germinate in -about twenty-one days, and require no especial care other than to be -kept moist and fairly warm. When an inch high transplant to thumb-pots, -using the fine compost. Shift as often as necessary; all -Asparagus—especially the Sprengeri—are greatly benefited by frequent -repotting. Spray frequently, keep moist always, and give liquid manure -once a week while growing. - -A. Sprengeri grows rapidly and is the most easily managed of all -varieties. It needs, however, abundant root room, and where that is -restricted must be given some kind of plant-food. It is the plant most -used for hanging-baskets. A basket of three two-year-old seedlings is a -thing of beauty, throwing off wonderful fronds—even in the dry air of a -sitting-room heated with a coal-stove. They should be given a chance to -rest during the summer by setting in a cool, shady place, watering -sparingly. When the plant shows signs of renewed growth repot, giving a -larger pot if necessary, or, if two or three plants have been growing in -one basket they may be separated and given more room. An elongated tuber -is formed on the roots, which stores nourishment—like the nodules on the -Clematis and Clover roots. It is useless for propagating purposes, and -should not be disturbed. A basket or a pot on a bracket or pedestal is -the only way in which to grow A. Sprengeri successfully, while A. -plumosus nanus succeeds best in deep pots, as it sends its roots far -down, often pushing its crown well above the soil in this way. A. -plumosus sends out fronds several feet long, and is best adapted for -growing on strings. A deep pot on a north or east window-sill suits it -well, provided it is not too cool, and fine spool-wire makes a neat -support and is almost invisible. - -The seeds of Rex and other Begonias are so fine as to look like dust. -They should be sown on the surface of the soil, in flats in the house, -in February or March, and an even temperature maintained. They germinate -in eight or ten days, and the greatest care is required to keep the -tender seedlings from damping off or drying out. The tiny plants appear -first as a vague green bloom on the face of the soil, and a magnifying -glass is necessary to show that each infinitesimal green point is -possessed of a pair of leaves. From this time on it is a delight to -watch the development of character in the leaf—quite tiny plants showing -different markings. I have never raised two Rex Begonias exactly alike. -When the little plants are large enough to handle prick them out into -other flats, setting them an inch apart each way. When an inch high put -into two-inch pots of leaf-mould, and plunge the pots in a pan of wet -sand in a cool, north window where bulbs are growing, if possible, as -the constant evaporation from these keeps the air moist. This is an -important consideration in the culture of Begonias, and in winter water -should be kept on stove, radiator or register to supply moisture. Among -the fine bedding, fibrous-rooted Begonias the new Vulcan, a fiery -scarlet; Vernon, a deep red; Erfordii, a soft pink, and the dwarf Bijou -are the best. By starting these during January and February in flats in -the house they may be bedded out in early summer. If planted in the -house in January, transplanted to flats, and thence to the hotbed when -it is emptied after the 20th of May, and partly shaded, they will be -fine, robust plants by August, and may be used to replace the Pansies -when it is not desired to carry these through the summer. If one has a -sufficient number of pots, pot and plunge in the hotbed and they will -not be set back by transplanting, but they must be plunged to the rim. -They should be shifted when necessary, duly mulched, and not allowed to -dry out. - -Nothing finer than the tuberous Begonias can be desired either for -bedding or for pot culture. The single are perhaps showier for bedding, -but the double are handsomer for pot culture. They do admirably bedded -out in a shady corner, or in pots in the sandbox. Peat, or a compost of -two parts loam, two parts leaf-mould, and one part each of sand and old, -well-rotted manure suits all varieties of Begonias. In setting out the -tuberous Begonia it is well to mulch the bed with lawn clippings. Water -thoroughly once a day, and, if very dry, or at all exposed to the sun, -twice a day. So really wonderful are their blossoms, and so long and -freely do they bloom, that they well repay a little extra care and -protection. When frosty nights come the tuberous Begonias must be -lifted, potted and kept indoors until they have completed their season -of growth. Then water should be gradually cut off and the pots stored -away in a dark, warm closet until spring, or if there are too many -Begonias to pot they may be ripened off at once by putting on a tray of -damp earth with the roots covered, and allowing them to dry gradually. -When dry the tubers may be removed, wrapped separately in tissue-paper -and stored in a dry, fairly warm place—a shelf in a closet or a drawer. - -Probably no greenhouse flower is as little known or repays acquaintance -as royally as the Calceolaria. Of infinite variety, its showy -purse-shaped flowers range from a rare pure white through all the shades -of pale lemon, orange, and scarlet to a deep, rich, velvety cardinal. It -is one of the most easily cultivated of house-plants. The seed is fine -like the Begonia, is handled in the same way, and germinates in eight or -ten days. Shift as often as the pot fills with roots, using a size -larger each time and disturbing the roots as little as possible. Rather -more loam than leaf-mould is used in potting them. Keep in an east -window in winter, where there is good morning sunlight and a temperature -of at least 60 degrees. The air should be kept moist, either from -blossoming bulbs or dishes of water on the stove. In a dry atmosphere it -is liable to attacks of red spider, which greatly mar the foliage. The -remedy or preventive measure is fresh air and moisture. Keep the soil -moist but not wet. When the flower-buds appear slightly increase the -supply of water and give a little manure once a week. The large felty -leaves grow so thick and close that when the buds appear, to prevent -injury from lack of light it may be necessary to remove a few leaves. If -kept growing vigorously and shifted frequently, plants should be in -five-inch pots by February and coming into bloom. When in full bloom it -is well to remove to a cool room, where the blossoms will last for -weeks. Cuttings may be taken when they are through blooming, but I think -it best to begin afresh each year with seed. - -Cinerarias make fine, large plants, as broad as they are high, their -rich, velvety leaves showing on the under side wonderful colourings of -green and lavender, purple and plum. The large heads of single -daisy-like flowers show many shades of white, lavender, crimson, purple, -and maroon. Most of the varieties have a dark eye and are sharply -margined with some contrasting color. The seed is fine and is simply -pressed into the soil. It germinates in from five to seven days, and -requires little heat. As the plants are rather difficult to carry -through the hot weather it is better to defer sowing until August. Their -growth is rapid if given a cool, moist atmosphere, but a draught is most -injurious and care must be taken never to over-water them. They like a -moist, but never wet, soil, frequently stirred when there is any sign of -damping off. They may be carried through an unusually hot spell in a -cool north or east cellar window, always avoiding draughts. In winter an -east window suits them best, with abundant room to develop their leaves. -They are an exceedingly ornamental plant even without the flowers. The -shady side of the sand-box is the best place for them in summer. They -need frequent shifting, and by winter should be in five-inch pots. After -the buds appear give liquid manure once a week. The utmost care must be -taken to guard against aphides or green plant-lice, which are absolutely -fatal if allowed to gain any foothold. The prevention is plenty of fresh -air and tobacco-dust sprinkled on the leaves, which mars their beauty. -The remedy—dipping in water heated to about 135 degrees, or brushing off -the lice and killing them. - -Carnations are the most easily grown of all desirable house-plants. If -planted in drills in the hotbed in April, or in the open ground when the -trees are in leaf, they will bloom in about four months. For outdoor -blooming the Marguerite Carnations are usually selected, and the Giant -of California is a new and choice variety of this popular strain. The -seed is sown an eighth of an inch deep, the plants appearing in from -five to seven days. When large enough to handle transplant into fresh -rows in hotbed or flats, setting them an inch or two apart each way. -When they are two or three inches high prick off into pots filled with -three parts good loam and one of leaf-mould and plunge back into the -hotbed. When the weather is warm enough set them in well-prepared beds -of loam, enriched with a liberal quantity of well-rotted manure, -planting them a foot apart each way. Cultivate frequently during summer -to keep them free from weeds. A little soot and ashes added to the soil -between the rows will heighten the colour of flowers and foliage and add -stiffness to the flower-stems. The ashes will also counteract the -tendency to burst the calyx, so troublesome in the Carnation. Plants -intended for winter blooming should have all the buds removed during the -summer, up to the first of September. - -Only a few flowers will be obtained in the open ground the first year, -but if the plants are protected during the winter they will bloom freely -the second season. While blooming no seed should be allowed to form, and -if size and quality are desired more than profusion of bloom, all but -the terminal buds on each stalk should be removed. This is the method -employed by florists to produce their long-stemmed beauties. Dig in the -second summer a little old manure between the rows and sprinkle ashes -there. A mulch of two or three inches of lawn clippings between the -plants will hold the moisture so that cultivation will not be necessary. -Fresh Carnation seed should be sown each spring, that there may always -be blossoming plants and the bed made perpetual. Carnations will not -stand the second winter, hence the need of young plants to renew the -bed. - -If it is desired to perpetuate any variety cuttings may be taken, or the -plants may be increased by layering. Branches from each plant may be -pegged down between the rows, equal distances apart, severed from the -old plants when sufficiently established, and allowed to remain when the -old plants are removed in the fall or following spring. The bed will, in -this way, perpetuate itself; but cuttings from the same plants -deteriorate in two or three years, and fresh seed should be sown every -two years at least. - -In growing winter Carnations for the house shift them as often as the -growth of the plant requires, using three parts loam, one part -leaf-mould, and one part each of sharp sand and old manure. When ready -to bloom they should be in five-or six-inch pots. They require an -atmosphere cooler than that of the ordinary living-room. A south window -away from direct fire, where the temperature stands at 50 or 55 degrees, -is best. Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to nearly dry out before -watering again. If possible sprinkle the foliage every day and watch -carefully for green fly and red spider; though there is less danger of -their appearance in a cool room than in the hot, dry air of the -living-room. When the flower-stalks appear they will need support, which -may be supplied by placing three or four sticks or cat-tails at the side -of the pot and twisting strings around them, back and forth, forming a -frame around the plant. There is an excellent Carnation frame on the -market, costing a few cents, which is similar but much neater. Stakes -thrust into the ground near the crown of a plant are apt to injure it, -and must be used carefully if at all; the finer the point on the stake -the less damage done. Should green lice or flies appear syringe the -plants with tobacco tea, or fumigate with tobacco, leaving them in the -smoke long enough to insure success. Or the plant may be dipped in hot -water at about 130 degrees; this will kill all insects or eggs. - -[Illustration: WHEN TWO OR THREE INCHES HIGH, TRANSPLANT CARNATIONS INTO -POTS] - -[Illustration: AN EASILY MADE CARNATION SUPPORT] - -Cyperus, or Umbrella-plant, may be easily raised from cuttings, but it -is sometimes desirable to have a number of plants for aquatic gardening, -and growing from seed is an economy. The seeds should be sown in flats -and kept warm; they germinate in about ten days, coming up very freely. -As many as three hundred plants have been secured from one packet. Prick -the seedlings out into larger flats as soon as they are big enough to -handle, and when two or three inches high pot them off into two-or -three-inch pots of muck, plunging into wet sand and keeping constantly -moist. Shift them as the pots fill with roots, and by the time the -plants are in four-inch pots the water should be kept standing in the -saucer all the time. When they attain proper size they should be grown -in a jardinière or other vessel holding water, or else the pot in which -they grow should be plunged in water. The Cyperus, being a semi-aquatic -plant, cannot have too much water; the lack is quickly shown by the -leaf-tips turning brown. Two plants kept fairly wet in pots, but plainly -suffering, so were plunged into a lily-tank; in a few days the roots had -pressed to the surface in search of water, and hung, a perfect fringe, -over the edge of the pots. The effect on the tops was as pronounced—the -crown quickly sending up lush green umbrellas in striking contrast to -the discolouration of the original plants. There are two varieties of -the Umbrella-plant—a dwarf, growing not more than eighteen inches high, -and a tall variety growing three or four feet; the former is prettier -for table decorations, while the latter is more effective for pedestals -in halls and drawing-rooms. Remove all weak or spindly umbrellas and all -discoloured ones; it is also well to remove the flowers, as seeding -injures the plant. - -Cyclamen may be started in flats or in a cool hotbed from January to -March, pressing the seed into the soil about twice their depth. They -must be kept moist, not wet, all the time. They do not require as much -heat as the Calceolaria, but the temperature must be kept as even as -possible. The seed germinates in from two to four weeks, according to -its vitality. It is best to start them in large flats and let them grow -on undisturbed. About the last of May remove them to a cold-frame on the -east side of the house, disturbing the roots as little as possible, and -setting the plants about eight inches apart each way. Keep the soil -moist and mellow by frequent cultivation, or by mulching it with -sphagnum moss or lawn clippings. When the plants have attained some size -give weak liquid manure once a week, pouring it in a shallow trench -between the rows, that it may not touch the bulbs or foliage. Treated in -this way they should be ready to bloom by winter; if grown in pots they -will not bloom until the second season. When cold weather comes lift the -plants and put in four-or five-inch pots, according to size, using good -garden loam and one-fourth the quantity of old, well-rotted manure. They -should be grown in a cool east room and syringed daily. - -In the spring after blooming withhold water gradually, giving no more -than will keep the roots from drying out, and set them in a cool, shady -place during the summer—the rear of the sand-box is best, where other -growths will protect them from the sun. In continuous wet weather they -should be turned on their sides or otherwise protected from extreme -moisture. When they show an inclination to grow again, if they are in -large enough pots, remove as much of the top-soil as possible without -disturbing the roots, and replace it with fresh, rich earth and old -manure. If the plants are crowded with roots remove them into pots one -or two sizes larger. Give them a good watering and set in a somewhat -lighter and warmer position. Cyclamen bulbs, like the Amaryllis, should -not be allowed to dry out entirely, as this destroys the roots, and when -the top growth starts in advance of the root growth, as is usual, the -plant will die from insufficient nourishment. Florists frequently send -out dry bulbs with flower-buds half an inch long and no sign of roots; -such bulbs rarely amount to anything. When obliged to start a dry bulb, -it is better to sink it half way in the soil and cover with sphagnum -moss. Set it in a dry, cool place, and examine it from time to time that -it may not be kept back longer than necessary. The starting of leaves is -a fair indication of root growth, as the premature growth is usually of -buds. - -Geraniums are as easily raised as Carnations—indeed, it seems only -necessary to put them in the ground and await results. In the spring sow -the seed in drills in hotbeds or flats, covering with an eighth of an -inch of soil. The plants should appear in from ten to fifteen days, and -if they do not stand too closely may be allowed to grow on until they -have two or three leaves. If mixed seeds are sown of the fancy-leaved, -the scented, the zonale and the Lady Washington, the development of the -several kinds will afford a fascinating study. - -Care should be taken to save the more delicate-looking seedlings, as -these will give the choicest varieties; the more robust plants among the -zonales indicate a retrogression toward the original type, which has -scarlet blooms. All choice new Geraniums are produced by seeds from -hybridised flowers. Pot off the last of May in three-inch pots, using -good garden loam and well-rotted manure. Pot them rather firmly and -plunge into the sand-box in full sunshine. Water thoroughly and allow -the soil to become dry before watering again; this tends to harden the -new growth and makes the plants stocky. Nip out the top of the plants, -forcing them to break or make new branches near the ground. The nearer -the ground a Geranium branches the better plant it will make. Pinch off -the shoots as they appear, allowing them to grow only three or four -inches long. Remove all buds that appear before fall and shift to larger -pots if needed, though Geraniums do not need as much pot room when -blooming as many other flowers. Give liquid manure once a week after the -buds appear—before that time the use of fertilisers encourages the -production of foliage rather than of flowers. - -Zonales should bloom by February and Pelargoniums by March or April the -first year. They should be watered more freely when in bloom. Geraniums -should be grown close to the glass to give best results. In prolonged -cloudy weather the buds will blast and the new growth look sickly in -spite of all care. Pelargoniums are very satisfactory when raised from -seed, showing great diversity of colour and markings. When they have -finished blooming in the spring cut them back freely, using the cuttings -for new plants. The old plants should be set in the shade to rest and -watered sparingly. At the end of that time they may be brought into the -sunlight or plunged into open ground and encouraged to grow freely. -Removing a portion of the leaves at this time—every other one, for -instance—will cause new shoots to break at the axils of the leaves, and -every new shoot means new blossom points. By the middle of September the -plants should be lifted, cut back to the point where the wood begins to -harden, and given a warm, sunny window. Cuttings started in spring, if -shifted, kept growing and pinched back occasionally, should be in -splendid condition for early spring blooming. In growing Geraniums never -lose sight of the fact that stocky, many-branched plants give flowers in -abundance; tall, spindly plants the reverse. A Geranium should always be -as broad as it is high to be at its best. Ivy Geraniums need extra care -to keep them low and stocky. Water sparingly and give abundant sunshine -if you wish these to bloom. - -Geranium seeds come up very irregularly, so that it is well not to -disturb the ground for some time after the proper season of germination -has passed. In this way many extra plants are secured. - - - Gloxinias - -Like all fine seeds the Gloxinias often give a surprising number of -plants from a single packet. The seed is sown on the surface of small -flats in the house and the plants appear in about ten days. They are -very tender at first and must be protected from undue heat, moisture, -cold or draughts. They may be potted when large enough and plunged in -the shady side of the sand-box, in a cold-frame, on the east side of the -house, or in a shady corner in the open ground, where they will be -protected from the sun during the hottest part of the day. Keep the soil -constantly moist; a light mulch of sphagnum moss or lawn clippings will -keep it in proper condition. Avoid wetting the foliage and as far as -possible touching it. The stems of both leaf and blossom are very -brittle and the slightest blow may deprive one of a cherished blossom. -For this reason I like to grow them by themselves and use a mulch -instead of cultivation. So much of the beauty of the plant depends upon -the perfection of the foliage that every effort should be made to -preserve it. In setting or potting Gloxinias the crown of the bulb -should be above the earth, the soil should slope to the rim of the pot, -that no water may settle about the crown and rot it. The plants may -remain in the hotbed or other quarters until the approach of frost, when -they must be shifted into larger pots and given a position in an east -window with plenty of light. Gloxinias, if kept growing vigorously and -shifted frequently, should bloom the following season. Some florists -advise resting the bulb the first winter, but this, I think, is a -mistake; the plant has done nothing to require a rest, nor has the bulb -gained sufficient size to live without nourishment for any length of -time, so that drying off is likely to result disastrously. After the -Gloxinia has completed its period of bloom water should be gradually -withheld and the foliage allowed to ripen. The bulbs may then be set -away in their pots in a warm, dry place, until the following spring; or, -if grown in hotbeds, they may be dried off by withholding water until -the foliage ripens, when they may be lifted, wrapped in cotton-wool or -tissue-paper, and stored in a dry, fairly warm place during the winter. - - - Heliotropes - -Are more easily raised from seed than from cuttings, which require -special care. Several of the new varieties, like Lemoine’s seedlings, -give exceptionally large and early flowers, ranging in colour from pure -white through all the shades of lavender, purple, and blue to deep -indigo. If wanted for winter blooming the seed may be sown any time -during the spring, but for bedding out it should be sown in February or -March, and the plants duly potted off and plunged in a box of sand in a -warm, sunny window, or a hotbed, until it is time to bed them out in the -open ground. The compost should contain a large proportion of -leaf-mould—three-fourths mould and one-fourth loam and sharp sand. - -The seeds of Heliotrope must be kept merely moist, never wet and never -allowed to dry out, or they will not sprout; keeping the soil just on -the verge of drying out, yet never allowing it to do so, is the whole -secret of starting Heliotrope from seeds. It is best to sow the seed in -moist soil to avoid the necessity of watering afterward, as is done with -other seeds; if the soil is just wet enough to be crumbly, neither wet -nor sticky, and can be kept so, they will prosper. Cover the seed -lightly with white sand and remove the glass if any appreciable moisture -appears—anything more than a fine mist. It germinates in from fifteen to -twenty days, and the plants require no special care beyond good soil, -warmth, and plenty of sunshine with frequent waterings. When grown as -house-plants they should be showered once or twice a day to prevent the -inroads of the red spider—their worst enemy. - -There is no more desirable bedding plant than the Heliotrope, and the -more freely it is cut by removing generous portions of stem with the -blossom the more freely it will bloom. It is admirable for replacing -Pansies and may be grown on in the hotbed until the Pansy’s day is past. -Where there is not enough Heliotrope for large bedding operations, -purple Ageratum may be combined with the Heliotrope with excellent -effect; this is a method often employed in the city parks, and when -judiciously done one scarcely notices that the beds are not all -Heliotrope. Plants may be taken up in the fall and cut back for winter -blooming. Blossoms always form on the terminals of the branches. - - - Lantanas - -Are hard-wooded, shrubby plants, the leaves more or less rough and -prickly. The colours range from pure white through various shades of -lemon to orange, red, a new bright scarlet, and the rosy lavender of the -Weeping Lantana. The seed in its immature state is incased in a green -pulp or berry, changing to blue as it ripens, and consists of a little -nut with several kernels, so that one is sometimes surprised with two or -more plants from what seems to be a single seed. The seed may be started -in the house, or in the hotbed early in the spring; sowing in drills -one-quarter of an inch deep. It germinates in from twelve to fifteen -days, but soaking in warm water, for a few hours before planting, will -hasten its appearance. They require about the same treatment as -Geraniums, but should be shifted oftener and given plenty of water. As -soon as the plants are four or five inches high transplant them to a -tobacco pail, or some large wooden receptacle containing a compost of -muck, loam, and old manure, or muck alone, and place in full morning -sunshine, out of doors. Thus managed I have grown, from seed sown in -March, plants that measured nine feet or more in circumference by -September and were a mass of bloom all summer long, the blossoms defying -all efforts at counting. - -Grown in this way, with an abundance of roots and top room, rich soil, -sun, and water, no better ornament could be desired for the porch or -steps; but I do not think it a desirable plant for the house, as the -hot, dry air causes it to drop its leaves, and it is almost sure to be -attacked by the red spider. It is better to start fresh plants each -spring and let them go when frost comes. - -Lantanas make fine hedgerows between house lots or for defining -different portions of the grounds. They should be planted in rich ground -two and one-half feet apart. - -The new Weeping Lantana is the most charming member of the family. It is -of much more slender growth than the rest and inclined to be pendulous, -or weeping. Its delightfully fragrant flowers are produced in round -heads the size of a half-dollar at the axil of every leaf and show a -lovely rosy-lilac hue. If planted in the open ground the Weeping Lantana -quickly covers a considerable area, presenting a solid sheet of bloom -throughout the summer. It will bloom freely in the house if given a -warm, sunny window, abundant room, and showered daily to keep back the -red spider, or dipped occasionally in hot water for that purpose. It -must always have abundant root and top room and plenty of water. - - - Petunias - -Probably no common flower of the garden has been so improved during the -last few years as the Petunia. The small-flowered variety of a few years -ago with its straggly habit and narrow range of colour—chiefly white and -faded magenta—is now superseded by magnificently fringed and ruffled -beauties in a wealth of colour, from purest white to glowing crimson, -and a velvety purple that is almost black, with wonderfully veined and -tinted throats and thick, stocky stems. It is difficult to realise that -they are the same plants, plus a few generations of good living and -culture. - -The double Petunias are desirable for pots, vases, and bedding out, but -I do not think they compare with such strains as Burpee’s Defiance, the -Giants of California, the Ruffled Giants, and the Miranda. Miranda, for -example, is a rosy carmine merging into a brilliant scarlet in the -throat—the nearest approach to a scarlet Petunia yet produced. The seed -of double Petunias will yield a fair proportion of double flowers. The -young plants of both the single and double varieties require great care -at first, being very sensitive to hot sun or cold air. Once established, -however, they will stand a great deal of both—more, indeed, than almost -any other flower of this class. Plant them in flats in the house in -March by pressing the seed into the soil without covering; keeping moist -and warm until the seed germinates, usually from eight to ten days. When -large enough to handle, prick off into larger flats and set them in a -warm north or east window. When the leaves touch set them two or three -inches apart each way in other flats and let them grow until it is time -to place them in the open ground, hardening them gradually by exposure -to more sun and air each day, and transplant with great care. If -intended to replace the Pansies they may be set in the bed in June, the -Pansies affording them protection until they have attained some size. -Set each little seedling on the north-east side of a Pansy plant, and by -the time the Pansies have passed their zenith they will be ready to -stand alone. - -Always remove poor or inferior plants in order that the highest standard -may be maintained; the finer varieties may be readily distinguished from -the more common sorts by the stems and foliage; the latter having thin -stems and small leaves, set rather far apart, while the stems of the -fine varieties are very stocky; the leaves large, more or less crinkly, -and set closely on the stem; the buds thick and compact, while those of -the common type are long and thin. Petunias grow so rapidly that vacant -places left by culling are soon filled. The finest specimens may be -lifted for winter flowering. They will bloom freely in the house and -often show a richer colour than when out of doors. They need -considerable root room—any crowding of the roots, or starving of the -plants being quickly shown in the deterioration of the flowers. Avoid -chills and draughts. Give liquid manure and water freely, but do not let -the soil get wet or sour. A little charcoal in the potting soil is an -excellent corrective of this tendency. Always remove the flowers as they -fade, thus prolonging the blooming season and increasing the beauty and -size of the blossom. - - - Primroses - -Require the same general treatment as other house-plants. A good compost -of leaf-mould, loam, and sand is best for the first few shiftings, -manure being added as the plants attain size. Repeated shifting hastens -blooming, while keeping the plants in small pots retards it. When ready -to bloom they should be fine, large plants in five-or six-inch pots. -They should blossom in November and, if well cared for, they will flower -from that time on until spring. In potting the Primrose care must be -taken to have the crown of the plant slightly above the surface of the -soil and the soil lowest at the edge of the pot, that no water may -settle around the crown and cause it to rot. When the buds appear give -the plants diluted liquid manure once a week. As the leaves of Primroses -are easily injured they should be placed where they will be subjected to -as little handling as possible. Window brackets make an ideal place for -them, as they can be turned and inspected without removal, and the large -velvety leaves, drooping gracefully over the pot, will develop -perfectly. Injured or faded leaves should be removed at once. A -receptacle rather broad than deep gives opportunity for the best -development. A hanging-basket, milk-crock with drainage hole, or -jardinière with outlet will answer. Sufficient root room is particularly -necessary in the case of old plants, as these have more divisions to the -crown and therefore spread more. Primula obconica does better when grown -in shallow dishes; a dish four inches deep and eight wide is much better -than the usual flower-pot. - -[Illustration: INJURED OR FADED LEAVES SHOULD BE REMOVED AT ONCE] - -Florists start their Primroses each year from seed, but there is no -reason why, if one has a choice plant, it should not be carried over to -the second year, when, being larger, it will give more flowers. - - - - - Chapter _NINE_ - Outside Window-boxes - - -The outside window-box is a thing of beauty if well cared for, a -disfigurement if neglected. So greatly does it add to the cheerfulness -and apparent size of the rooms under the windows of which it is placed -that I should advise its use whenever practicable. One of my pleasantest -recollections is a window-box full of Heliotrope under a sitting-room -window, filling the room so full of perfume that going into it in the -early morning was like stepping into a garden of fragrance. - -Window-boxes do well in any window not shaded by porches, and the plants -best suited to the light may be selected. Many plants too tender to bed -out in the open ground may be trusted to the window-box. Fuchsias, -Ferns, Asparagus Sprengeri, A. tenuissimus, Ageratums, fancy-leaved -Caladiums, and various tuberous-rooted Begonias, like the -silver-spotted, known as Angel’s Wing, are all lovely in the window-box. -Rubra and most of the Begonias do admirably in a north window. For -windows facing the street, where effect is principally sought, bright -Geraniums, Heliotropes, Coleus, Crotons, and similar plants are -preferable, provided there is sufficient sunshine to bring out all their -rich colouring. - -The fancy-leaved Caladiums may be used where bright effect is sought in -a north window. - -The boxes used for this purpose should be as ample as possible, the full -length of the window-casing outside and at least a foot wide and deep. -They should be made of inch boards, closely fitted together so that the -sides shall not warp and allow the water to run through too freely, -washing out and exhausting the soil. A hole may be made in the bottom at -one end, and provided with a plug, for the escape of surplus water -during continued rains. A piece of broken crock or other drainage must -be placed over the hole on the inside of the box to prevent the earth -working in and obstructing the free passage of water. The hot air of -summer will shrink the earth away from the sides of the box, leaving a -channel for the water to escape without properly soaking the soil; but -if the surface of the soil is kept open, and the centre left a little -lower than the sides, this will be prevented. A little experimenting -will show just how much water is needed to wet the soil properly without -letting it run away, and this amount should be used daily during dry -weather. Only as many plants as will do well in the limited space of -four square feet should be planted in the window-boxes. Five erect -plants and three vines are enough for a box of that size, and even these -may need attention before the season is over, especially if in south or -west windows. North or east boxes will, usually, keep their contents -fresh until frost; but a west or south light makes great demands upon -the vitality of plants confined within the limited area, and it is a -good plan to leave Geraniums and similar flowers in their pots, that -they may be easily exchanged for others when they grow shabby, cutting -back and repotting the old ones for winter blooming if removed not later -than August. - -A better plan is to have two boxes; starting one in the house in March, -that it may be ready to place as soon as danger of frost is past; and -the second in June, that it may be ready to replace the first when -needed. For the latter the vines started in the house, or hotbed, in -April will be available. Maurandya, Thunbergia, and the like, and many -flowers from seed will have reached sufficient size to be used for the -second box. Plants that have been carried over from another season, or -purchased from the florist, will be necessary for the first boxes. There -is no more beautiful vine for a window-box than the Maurandya; it drapes -more gracefully than any other vine I know (unless it be the Wild -Cucumber, which attaches itself to the window-screen in wreaths of -exuberant bloom, drooping far below the window-box, and making a lovely -background for scarlet Geraniums). Its only fault is that it will grow -shabby before the season is over, when it had better be pulled up and -replaced by a fresher vine that has been grown in a pot for the purpose -and can be slipped into place without checking its growth. - -[Illustration: OUTSIDE WINDOW-BOXES] - -Perhaps no plant is more satisfactory for a south or west window-box -than a good Geranium—either the dark, rich vermilion of the S. A. Nutt, -or the vivid scarlet of the Bruant. Both of these appear to better -advantage when contrasted with white flowers. Camphor Geranium is -excellent, being a freer bloomer than other white Geraniums, and the -Giant White Antirrhinum is especially vivid. Double white Petunias and -white Phlox Drummondi are also good. Purple Ageratums and Heliotrope are -charming with scarlet and white. The large-flowered Ivy -Geraniums—Souvenir de Charles Turner—are the best, and do finely in east -and west window-boxes, while the variegated variety makes a lovely mass -of pendent foliage for an east or north box. Trailing Fuchsia, Japanese -Morning-glory, Glechoma, and Wild Cucumber all do well on the north side -of the house. The following combinations may all be depended upon to -give satisfactory results: - - - Southern Exposure. - - - No. 1. - - Bruant Geranium White Antirrhinum. S. A. Nutt Geranium - (scarlet). (cardinal). - Heliotrope. Heliotrope. - White Maurandya. White Maurandya. - - - - No. 2. - - Jean Viaud Geranium Mrs. J. M. Garr. Jean Viaud - (pink). (pink). - Dwarf blue Ageratum. Dwarf blue Ageratum. - Nepeta Glechoma. Souv. de Charles Turner. Nepeta Glechoma. - - - No. 3. - - Beaute Poitevine Ger. White Verbena. Madame Charlotte Ger. - (salmon). (salmon). - Weeping Lantana. - Var. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc. - - - No. 4. - - Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons. - Light Crotons. Light Crotons. - Adlumia. Lotus Peliorhynchus. Adlumia. - - - No. 5. - - Light Crotons. Light Crotons. Light Crotons. - Dark Coleus. Dark Coleus. - Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons. - - - No. 6. - - East Window-box. - - Scarlet Tuberous Begonia. White do. Scarlet Tuberous Begonia. - White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia. - White Thunbergia. Scarlet Nasturtium. White Thunbergia. - - - No. 7. - - Pink Justicia. Pink Justicia. Pink Justicia. - Heliotrope. Heliotrope. - White Maurandya. Solanum Jasminoides. White Maurandya. - - - No. 8. - - Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow - Tuberous Begonia. - White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia. - Yellow Thunbergia. Yellow Thunbergia. - - - No. 9. - - Pink Double Petunia. White Antirrhinum. Pink Double Petunia. - Wild Cucumber. - - - No. 10. - - Heliotrope. Heliotrope. Heliotrope. - Duke Zeppelin Begonia. Duke Zeppelin Begonia. - Solanum Jasminoides. Solanum Jasminoides. - Manettia Vine. - - - No. 11. - - North Window-box. - - Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums - (dark). (dark). (dark). - Fancy Caladiums (light). Fancy Caladiums (light). - Vinca Var. Vinca Var. - Trailing Fuchsia. Maurandya. Trailing Fuchsia. - - - - No. 12. - - Fuchsia Phenomenal. Begonia Angel’s Wing. Fuchsia Phenomenal. - Dwarf Ageratum. Dwarf Ageratum. - Ivy Geranium. Trailing Fuchsia. Ivy Geranium. - - - No. 13. - - Rubra Begonia. Asparagus Tenuissimus. Begonia Velutina. - Farfugium. Feastii Begonia. - Variegated Vinca. Manettia Vine. Variegated Vinca. - - - No. 14. - - Asparagus Sprengeri. Boston Fern. Asparagus Sprengeri. - Russellia Grandis. Cissus Discolour. Russellia Grandis. - -Nasturtiums make an attractive window-box, but need abundant root room, -and not more than three plants should be put in a box having three other -erect plants. Morning-glories, on the contrary, require but little room, -and one may be put in each end of a north window-box and trained over -the window. If strings are provided they will reach the roof by -midsummer, blooming every step of the way; other vines may be grown in -the front of the box. The Centrosema—when it can be persuaded to grow—is -a charming vine for a north or east window, but it is a very shy plant, -hard to get started, and refusing to grow in an uncongenial situation, -though quite hardy when once established. - -[Illustration: BOXES IN WHICH SCYTHES ARE PACKED MAKE VERY GOOD -WINDOW-BOXES] - -[Illustration: HANGING-BASKETS FOR WINDOWS] - -The best support for the window-box is the wooden bracket made by -nailing to the side of the house, thirteen inches below the window-sill, -a strip of inch stuff the length of the window-frame and three or four -inches wide; on top of this and at right angles to it nail three similar -strips of wood one foot long, the outer ends resting on strips of wood -attached to the sill of the house; these last strips must have the ends -bevelled sufficiently to fit snugly against the baseboards and the -bottom of the horizontal pieces and be securely nailed together. If the -measurements are carefully taken the box will slip into place, on the -supports, just under the window-sill. Paint boxes and supports to match -the house. Window-boxes may be kept in the cellar through the winter, or -emptied, dried and stored in a dry place, according to their contents. -Always empty and thoroughly scald the boxes before using. - -In stocking window-boxes never put plants received by mail directly into -them; they should be ordered early enough to pot and become established -(the pots full of roots) by the time they are needed for the -window-boxes, when they may be slipped into place without disturbing the -roots or checking their growth. Placed at once in the boxes, in a sunny -position, they would probably be lost. - -Very fair window-boxes may be obtained at trifling expense by using the -boxes in which grass scythes are packed, which may be purchased at the -hardware store for five or ten cents apiece. These are not as wide nor -as deep as one could wish, but have the advantage of cheapness and -availability. Preference should be given to those having close seams. If -warped or open they must be tightened by driving in extra nails, or -nailing thin strips of wood over the cracks on the inside. The longevity -of the window-box is greatly lengthened by keeping the windows above -them—especially on the south and west sides of the house—open as much of -the time as possible. If the sun beats on the glass of the closed window -and is reflected on the plants, it is literally confining them between -two fires and they cannot be expected to come through uninjured. Let the -wind sweep through and over them and they will stand any reasonable -amount of heat or moisture. This is the reason plants do better in the -open than when placed against the side of a wall or building—the air -must not only have free access, but pass beyond, carrying off noxious -vapours and excess of moisture. - -When there is garden room for their cultivation I do not approve of -growing annuals in window-boxes; it is better to reserve these for -choice plants; but when the window-box must be the only garden, and -economy must be studied, very pretty boxes may be arranged with Sweet -Alyssum; scarlet, white, or pink Phlox Drummondi; scarlet, pink, or -white Verbenas; the various coloured Antirrhinums, Petunias, -Nasturtiums, the blue Phacelia and Ageratums, Wild Cucumber, the finer -foliaged fancy gourds, as Bryonopsis Coccinea Indica, and Abobra -viridiflora. By using the scythe boxes, and starting the plants from -seed, very pretty boxes may be gotten up for from thirty-five to fifty -cents a pair that will give as much pleasure as more expensive ones. The -more flowers are cut from these boxes of annuals the more freely they -will bloom, and no seeds should be allowed to form. A little liquid -manure should be given all window-boxes—except those containing -Begonias—once a week during the summer, and all withered flowers and -leaves promptly removed. Nip back weak, straggly growths and encourage -the plants to grow stocky and the vines to branch freely. - - - - - Chapter _TEN_ - Various Annuals from Seed - - -Antirrhinums (Snapdragon), of late much interest has been shown in the -newer forms of this old-time favourite, and some fine new varieties have -become popular for cut flowers. The Giant White and Queen of the North -are most desirable for cut flowers, window-boxes, and vases; while -Niobe—a beautiful half-dwarf variety of velvety maroon with white -throat, Giant Yellow, Giant Crimson, and Firefly—a bright scarlet—are -excellent for bedding. - -Seed should be started early in hotbed or flats. Merely press it into -the soil and cover with a paper until the plants appear, which should be -in from eight to ten days. Transplant into rich soil where the plants -are to remain, setting one foot apart each way. They are effective in -rows with some taller plant, or vine, for a background. The tall, showy -spikes are most striking against a background of green. The Antirrhinum -is a half-hardy perennial, blooming the first season if seed is started -early enough, and hardy at the North with good protection in winter. If -a succession of flowers is desired, no seed should be allowed to form. -Protect in winter with a mulch of leaves, evergreen boughs, or -corn-stalks, as high—or higher—than the plants, or they may be pegged -down and covered with evergreen boughs, or boards to shed the rain. Thus -protected they will live through the winter and bloom heavily the -following summer. Occasionally in favoured locations they will live -through the winter unprotected, but this cannot be depended upon. - -Antirrhinums are not particular as to soil or situation, provided they -have plenty of water; rich loam or half loam and half leaf-mould suiting -them equally well, and any exposure that affords a fair amount of -sunshine. - -Asters have come to be a recognised necessity of the fall garden, and -there has been marked improvement in varieties during the past few -years. Starting with the old-fashioned Aster of medium size and inferior -colour, showing a marked yellow centre, the aim of the Aster specialist -has been to eliminate the centre, enlarge the flower, and improve the -colour and texture of the petal. Results are shown in such varieties as -the Giant White Comet, the Bride, the Japanese Tassel Aster, -Chrysanthemum Flowered, Peony, Perfection, and the wonderful Ostrich -Feather. - -With such an embarrassment of riches it is difficult to declare any one -variety the finest, but for cut flowers and corsage wear nothing can -excel the Chrysanthemum Flowered in white and pink. - -The lasting quality of the flowers when cut is quite phenomenal. I have -known them to keep fresh and sightly in water for a month, until the -stems had entirely rotted away, leaving the flower uninjured. In -arranging them for vases remove all leaves below the top of the vase, -leaving clean stems, which should be thoroughly cleansed daily, and the -ends clipped. A teaspoonful of charcoal added to the water in the vase -will keep it sweet and retard decay. - -Early planting of Asters is to be strongly recommended, as the early -plants are not subject to the dreaded Aster disease or to attacks of the -black beetle, which often destroy all the flowers of a late bed in a -single day. - -A teaspoonful of Paris green in the watering-pot, sprinkled on at night -or very early in the morning, will usually rid the plants of their -unwelcome guests, or they may be brushed off into a pan of water -containing a small quantity of kerosene—which is fatal to them. They are -sluggish, especially in the early morning, dropping to the ground when -touched, and easily killed. The point is to take them in time, and the -appearance of the first beetle should be the signal for active -operations. - -For early flowers the seed may be planted in the hotbed, flats, or -cold-frame in March or April, covering an eighth of an inch deep and -keeping rather cool. They germinate in from five to seven days, and when -the plants have attained their second pair of true leaves they should be -transplanted, setting an inch or two apart in the flats or bed. -Transplant again when the leaves close up the gaps between them, setting -three or four inches apart according to their growth. If possible, -transplant a third time, as this frequent moving serves to produce a -great quantity of feeding roots, at the same time checking the top -growth and making a stocky plant with stiff stems. Transplant when the -weather is favourable into a well-prepared bed of sandy loam enriched -with old manure, or a bed of woods earth. Set a foot apart each way, -except in the case of the branching Asters, which should be at least two -feet apart. - -Sprinkle ashes freely, and as long as there is room to work between the -rows cultivate once or twice a week. They may then be mulched with lawn -clippings to keep down the weeds for the rest of the season. If they are -planted in woods earth they will need only such cultivation as is -necessary to keep down the weeds. Do not let them suffer for water at -any period of their growth, and remove all flowers as they fade. - -Ageratums (Floss Flower) are almost indispensable for edgings, -window-boxes, vases, and for filling out beds of Heliotrope. The dwarf -or Tom Thumb are the most desirable for edgings. Princess Caroline, -Swanley Blue, and Little Dorrit are the best of this class in the blue -or lavender shades. The white does not show a good, clear colour under a -hot sun, and is therefore not desirable. For early plants sow in flats -or in the hotbed early in spring. Later seed may be sown in the open -ground when the trees are in bloom, and transplanted when large enough. -Sow broadcast, covering the seed lightly and pressing it into the soil. -They germinate in from three to five days, and may be grown on until -time to transplant into permanent quarters. Though they may start -somewhat spindly, they quickly regain their dwarf and stocky character -in the open ground. Set plants from eight to ten inches apart in the -row. If the flower heads are removed as fast as they fade plants will -bloom from early June until cut down by frost. - -Balsams (Lady Slipper), like Asters, are greatly benefited by frequent -transplanting, and one at least they must have. Start seed early in the -hotbed or flats, or later, when the trees are in bloom, in protected -beds in the open ground. Transplant at least once in the seed-beds; -twice, if possible. When danger of frost is past remove to beds of muck -or marsh earth, setting from twelve to fifteen inches apart each way. -Given plenty of room, the Balsam branches freely, and one well-developed -specimen will give more and finer flowers than a half-dozen cramped -specimens. In purchasing select the camellia-flowered varieties, as it -does not pay to waste time with inferior kinds. Really fine Balsams are -well worth cultivating, and are very effective in rows in front of -taller plants. The double white and shell pink are valuable for floral -designs for funerals and for other decorative work. - -Probably no flower that has come into vogue of late years has won more -popularity than the Cosmos—certainly for cut flowers nothing can surpass -it in graceful beauty. The large pink and white Hibiscus, with a -generous handful of long-stemmed pink, crimson, and white Cosmos, makes -an ideal bouquet for a high glass vase. Placed in front of a large -mirror the effect in form and colour is hardly surpassed by the choicest -exotics. The graceful, fern-like foliage adds greatly to the beauty of a -well-grown clump in the garden or lawn. They are at their best when seen -against a background of darker green, a shower of crimson, pink, and -white. - -Only the early flowering varieties should be grown at the North, as the -seasons are much too short for the giant or California varieties; though -if one has room for both, the California may be grown as a background -for the dwarf early flowering, as the foliage is much superior and the -late flowers very fine. If started very early in flats in the house, -pricked, out into pots, shifted and grown on until time to set in the -open ground, the season of bloom will be much advanced. - -Set out in rich garden soil and supply abundantly with water. Strong -stakes must be provided, as the plants are very brittle at the joints, -and a storm may do great damage if they are unsupported. An excellent -way of growing them is to plant them in front of a wire fence or chicken -netting on the side toward the prevailing wind, that they may be blown -against, rather than away from their support, and the stalks and main -branches tied to the wires with raphia, wool twine, or strips of cloth; -thus protected there will be little danger of their being injured by -rough winds. - -If an occasional seed is allowed to form and self-sow there will come up -very sturdy little plants the following spring, but fresh seed should be -purchased every other year to insure against deterioration in size of -blossom and quantity of bloom. - -Columbine (the Aquilegia) seed may be sown in the open ground in the -North when the trees are in leaf, or any time after May 10th. Cover the -seed-bed with a newspaper and keep moist until the plants are up, in ten -to twelve days. Transplant when large enough to handle into fresh rows -or, when they have attained sufficient size, into their permanent -quarters. Planted in a row where they will have a background of green -the effect is beautiful. One of the prettiest beds I remember was of -mixed Columbine—pure white, rose, and lavender—in front of an old grey -building, on which grew a delicate vine in its first tender spring -green. They had been moved the fall before from a bed where they -attracted no particular attention, but in their new quarters they awoke -to find themselves famous. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: SMALL WATER GARDENS] - -Dahlias are so easily raised from seed that it hardly seems worth while -to bother with the tubers, unless one has exceptionally favourable -conditions for storing them. Plants grown from seed, started early in -the house or hotbed, will come into bloom quite as soon as those grown -from tubers. Plant the seed in drills two inches apart, dropping an inch -or more apart in the drills, and cover with one-eighth to one-fourth -inch of earth. The seed germinates in from five to seven days, and the -little plants are quite robust from the start, though sensitive to cold -and drought. When all danger of frost is past and the nights are warm -transplant the Dahlias into beds of mellow soil heavily enriched with -manure. Set three feet apart each way and cultivate thoroughly as long -as there is room to work between the rows. Then mulch heavily with rough -manure covered with lawn clippings. Water copiously during dry weather, -showering the tops at night to counteract the effect of the dry air on -the buds. Save waste water from kitchen and bath, and apply to their -roots. This affords nourishment as well as moisture. When two feet high -tie carefully to tall, stout stakes, which, to avoid injury to the -tubers, would better be placed when the plants are set. Sprinkle soot -and ashes between the plants and cultivate it in. The finest flowers are -produced by protecting with an awning of thin cotton cloth after the -buds are fully grown—though this would only be desirable in the case of -exhibition flowers. When several buds appear in one place remove all but -the largest, as the difference in size will more than repay for the loss -in number, besides there is danger of all blasting if allowed to remain. - -If worms or beetles appear on the buds they should be sprayed with -Paris-green solution—one teaspoonful of Paris green to three gallons of -water. Should the borer—that pest of the Dahlia, Aster, and -Cosmos—appear, pour the Paris-green mixture around the roots, soaking -the soil to the depth of three or four inches. Examine the stock of the -plant near the ground for the hole made by the borer. When found run a -flexible wire up the stalk to destroy the worm and prevent further -damage, and heap the earth above the wound. If brought up to a point -above the wound, and kept moist, new roots will start, thus insuring the -recovery of the plant. If one has previously been troubled with this -worm it will be well to anticipate matters, and, commencing when the -plants are a foot high, apply once a week a weak Paris-green solution; -continue this until the plant is grown and the wood hardened near the -ground. - -The fine mixed double Dahlias, the Cactus and the magnificent single -varieties, are all desirable for cut flowers and effective in garden -rows; but for corsage wear the last are best. It would be difficult to -find a flower more beautiful than a vivid-coloured single Dahlia. - -For the rockwork try English Daisies—pink, white, crimson, and striped. -They do admirably in such a situation, digging their toes in between the -stones, finding cool, moist spots, and holding their heads up in the hot -sunshine. Start the seeds where they are to remain, or in a flat or -cold-frame. The little plants appear in from five to seven days, and -will need shade and moisture until they have become established. For -beds that lie in partial shade they make beautiful borders, forming -little rosettes of leaves that in the fall may be taken up and divided -by pulling apart into as many plants are there are crowns; in this way -one will, in a short time, secure a large bed or border. They should be -protected in winter by a mulch of rough stable litter, evergreen boughs, -or corn-stalks, and the bed raised to shed water. - -The Hibiscus (Marshmallow) is a perennial deserving much more general -cultivation. Even to flower lovers it seems quite unknown, and yet it is -cheaply and easily raised from seed, and one of the hardiest of our -garden perennials. There are three varieties hardy in the North—an -immense pure white blossom with a velvety crimson eye, a pale pink or -flesh colour, and a lovely bright pink. These three are hardy in the -open ground without protection, but they will be stronger plants and -bloom more freely if protected with a little rough litter and hilled to -shed water. - -There are several that may be treated as hardy annuals, and various -tender perennials that must be kept in the house or greenhouse during -winter. Among the first are Africanus, a large cream-coloured, -brown-eyed variety; it is low-growing and effective in front of the -tall, crimson-eyed sort, which with age attains a height of six or more -feet. - -Giant Yellow is a beautiful canary yellow with crimson throat, hardy as -far north as St. Louis, but safer in the cellar above that latitude, and -Coccinea, a tender perennial of a brilliant crimson. If started early -all will give flowers the first season from seed, which may be sown in -hotbeds or flats in February or March in drills one-fourth inch deep. -They germinate in from five to seven days. Plant out in good garden soil -at corn-planting time, setting the hardy varieties where they are to -remain, as they do not bear transplanting well when they have attained -any considerable size. Cultivate during the hot weather or mulch. A -two-quart tin can, with holes on one side near the bottom, may be sunk -in the ground and filled with water. This with the mulch will keep the -earth cool and moist during the hottest weather. The plant is an -herbaceous perennial, dying down to the ground in winter and coming up -from the roots the following spring—rather late in May. Plants increase -in size and beauty each year, and a five-or six-years clump is superb. - -[Illustration: COOL, MOIST SPOTS BETWEEN STONES] - -Cut off the stalks a few inches above the ground when killed by frost, -but do not attempt to break them off or pull them up, as that will -injure the crown of the large, fleshy roots and cause decay during the -winter. The remainder of the stalk serves to mark the location of the -plant. When they have grown to blooming size they should be tied to -stout stakes. The large clumps have a tendency to spread at the roots, -and a severe rain and wind storm may lay them prostrate. Make a support -of two or three wooden hoops nailed to two or more stout stakes, the top -hoop standing three feet above the ground. Place this over the plants in -the spring and train them to grow up through the hoops. - -For effective grouping, to fill in a corner, to serve as a screen to -unsightly objects, to catch the eye and carry it on from point to point, -there is no finer flower than the Hollyhock. The double flowers, of -course, are more attractive at close range, but at a distance the single -are rather more effective. Everyone who grows plants should find at -least one corner for a big clump of this gorgeous flower. - -The seeds should be sown in the spring, either where they are to remain -or in a cold-frame; the location matters little so that favourable -conditions of the soil are secured. Plants started after the seed ripens -in the summer, even when protected by a cold-frame, do not make -sufficient growth to endure a very severe winter. The new Alleghany -Hollyhocks are hardier, and a fair proportion of plants from August-sown -seeds may be expected to survive the winter. When the plants run up -their blossom stalks the second season they must be securely staked to -prevent injury by high winds. If the borer appears apply the Paris-green -solution about the roots. The Hollyhock is subject to attack very early -in the season by a variety of red spider which feeds on out-of-door -plants. The Paris-green solution may be used for this, or a kerosene -emulsion, or the plants may simply be showered with hot water at about -145°. The remedy should be applied promptly. The Hollyhock blight is a -fungous disease of a most destructive nature. Its ravages almost drove -the Hollyhock out of our gardens some years ago. Infected plants should -be burned. Though hardy the second year, they should be hilled up -sufficiently to shed water and given a shelter of corn fodder or -evergreen boughs during the winter. - -When the trees are in bloom Nasturtiums may be planted in the open -ground where they are to remain. They should have fairly rich soil and a -sunny situation, as they will not bloom well in the shade. The dwarf -varieties make very attractive borders for Canna beds, the colour and -texture of the foliage harmonising better with the Canna than that of -the Coleus and many other plants commonly employed, while the brightness -of the blossoms makes a very attractive whole. - -The tall varieties make effective beds when pegged down, as the plants -root wherever they touch the ground and send up flower shoots. Usually, -however, they are grown on strings or trellises. The latter is a -troublesome method, as they must be fastened to their support with -strings. They are not climbers, but trailers, and have no tendrils or -other means of attaching themselves to their support. - -The finest bed of Nasturtiums I have seen is an elevated one built -around a pipe which brings water from a distance. Some of the water—not -much—reaches them, and they are given little, if any, attention, but in -their elevated bed they grow luxuriantly, trailing over the sides of the -ground and showing a brilliant mass of flowers until cut down by frost. -Usually the Nasturtium receives too much water, and produces quantities -of rank, lush foliage instead of flowers. - -The new Nasturtium, Sunlight, is one of the finest varieties brought out -in years—a pure, clear, golden yellow without any markings and of fine -size. Its companion, Moonlight, is a pale cream, almost white, showing -wine-coloured markings in the throat. For mixed varieties the hybrids of -Madame Gunther are the most desirable, and the new Chameleon shows a -variety of different coloured flowers on the same stem. - - - The Pansy Bed - -To obtain the best results seed should be sown by the middle of August, -using fresh seed of the year if procurable. Rather than delay planting, -however, it is better to risk the lessened vitality of last year’s -seed—sowing somewhat more generously as an offset. Sow as thinly as -possible in the cold-frame or a spent hotbed, in drills two inches -apart, drawing the earth from the sides of the drills and pressing it -down with the board. The drills should run lengthwise of the bed from -east to west, and each variety should be distinctly labelled with name -and date of sowing. After sowing water well with the rubber sprinkler, -cover with newspapers, and protect the bed with lath screens. Pansy seed -germinates in from eight to ten days. When the plants have their second -leaves thin out by setting some between the rows, and encourage growth -by giving sunshine and water as needed and liquid manure once a month. -The aim should be to get a sturdy rather than a quick growth to fit them -for the winter. The soil in the frame should stand well above the soil -outside, and a trench or hole, filled with stone or broken crockery, -should be made in one corner, corresponding to the lowest level of the -earth outside, to carry off any surplus moisture that may gather in the -bed. When cold weather comes place the sash in position and, if it -remains steadily cold—below freezing—leave the bed undisturbed until -spring. The best results usually follow such a condition. If the winter -is an open one, and the ground free from frost much of the time, the -Pansies may be exposed to the sun and, on mild days, to the air. In this -way considerable winter growth will be secured. Should the temperature -fall sufficiently to freeze the ground inside the frame, the sash should -remain closed and be protected with mattings, old carpet, or the like, -and the plants allowed to thaw out in the dark. Never expose to the sun -when frozen, but thaw out under cover. - -As soon as the ground can be worked in the spring prepare a bed in an -open, sunny situation by removing the soil to a depth of six or eight -inches and spading in a generous amount of old, well-rotted cow manure—a -wheel-barrow load to every fifteen square feet is not too much if it is -old and thoroughly spaded into the soil. Replace the surface soil, or, -better still, fill up the beds with leaf-mould or earth from the compost -heap. Instead of the cow manure, old, well-rotted hen manure and chip -dirt in equal quantities, with a liberal sprinkling of soot, may be -substituted. Dig it well into the subsoil and cover with fine loam or -leaf-mould, raking this fine and even and free from stones. Leave it to -settle for a few days and then transplant the Pansies, setting them nine -inches apart each way. Where several strains of Pansies are grown it is -an advantage to plant each variety by itself, marking the line of -separation by two or more rows of some distinct colour; such as pure -white, clear yellow, or black. This enables one to compare the varieties -at a glance and form a better estimate of their qualities than would be -possible in a mixed bed. - -During hot, dry weather the Pansy bed should be watered twice a day—at -night and at noon. Watering the garden in the middle of the day may seem -a reckless innovation to many, especially to the professional gardener, -but years of experience have taught me the value of giving a plant water -when it most needs it—and that is when it is parched with heat. Of -course all plants will not stand water under a hot sun, but Pansies are -not injured by it in any way. Pansies do not send their roots as deeply -into the ground as most plants, but make many surface roots (hence we -place the fertilisers well below the surface to induce a deeper growth), -which even a temporary drying out of the top-soil will injure. A good -soaking of the soil at night will last until ten or eleven o’clock the -next day, according to exposure, and if another good wetting is then -given with water fresh from the hydrant or well it will remain cool and -moist throughout the twenty-four hours. The rapid evaporation caused by -the hot sun will create a moist atmosphere around the plants, producing -much finer flowers than would be possible in the dry air resulting from -withholding water until night. Always plant Pansies in an open, airy -situation, where the wind can have full sweep over them. There is no -more mistaken idea than that Pansies should be grown in the shade. The -aim should be to get stocky, upright plants with the flowers borne well -above the foliage on stiff stems. This is impossible when plants are -grown in the shade, where long, straggly branches will invariably be -produced, with flowers at the extreme end. Then, too, plants grown by -the side of the house, or in protected positions, where the wind cannot -sweep over them, are much more liable to disease than plants grown in -the open. - -[Illustration: DUSTING WITH SULPHUR] - -[Illustration: SPRAYING WITH BORDEAUX MIXTURE] - -Fungoid disease and mildew often attack the Pansy in hot, muggy weather. -The remedy for the former is to spray with the Bordeaux mixture, and for -the latter to dust with sulphur. It will be better still—if the disease -appear in August, as is usual—to remove all the old growth, cutting or -breaking it off close to the crown, care being taken not to injure the -tender new shoots, which will have started by this time. Burn the old -tops. The new growth, being open to the air, will probably be free from -disease, and will quickly fill the bed, giving an abundance of fine -flowers throughout the cool days of fall. From a bed so treated I -gathered five hundred blossoms the day before Thanksgiving with no -apparent diminution of bloom. After removing the old growth the earth -between the plants should be thoroughly cleaned and worked over with the -trowel. - -From the blooming of the first Pansy until frost the bed must be gone -over every day and all faded flowers removed. This is absolutely -necessary to insure free blooming. The formation of a single pod of seed -lessens the blooming capacity of the plant and reduces the size of -succeeding flowers. - -To maintain a high standard it is best to purchase fresh seed each year, -buying the best to be obtained. Special mixtures sent out by the leading -florists are made up of the best strains of the Pansy specialists in -this country and Europe. One must not expect to purchase these -collections for the price of ordinary seed, from twenty-five cents to -fifty cents being the usual range of price. A packet of such fine -strains as Giant Cassier and Giant Trimardeau should be included; and -such special colours as may be wanted in larger quantities than the -mixed packages furnish. Snow Queen is the best pure white, and the bed -should contain a liberal number of these plants. Aurora is considerably -larger than the Snow Queen, but shows purple markings in the centre, and -is not so fine in shape and texture. With the exception of size, Snow -Queen is an ideal Pansy. If it is desired to carry the Pansy bed through -the winter it may be done by using pieces of board, half a yard long, -with notches cut in one end and the other end pointed. Put these through -the centre of the bed a few feet apart, hammering the sharp end into the -ground. Place long poles lengthwise of the bed, resting them on the -notches. This forms a support on which the evergreen boughs, corn -fodder, boards, bark, or anything that will shed water and protect from -sun and wind. Leaves and litter are not suitable protection for Pansies, -as they settle around the plants, freezing and causing them to decay. - -[Illustration: SOW POPPIES IN THE PERENNIAL BORDER AMONG THE LATE -FLOWERING PLANTS] - -When there is a large garden to be cared for it is not always expedient -to carry the Pansy bed through the summer, as the daily labour of -removing the withered flowers is very great. In that case it will be -better to let the Pansies go when hot weather reduces the size and -quantity of the flowers, replacing them with plants grown for the -purpose, Petunias, bedding Begonias, Heliotropes, and the like. - -Sow Poppy seed freely wherever there is a corner to spare, especially if -it is a corner that would otherwise be neglected and grow up to weeds. -It is surprising how many places may be found to sow them. A barren -angle of a fence, a vacant strip behind or at the side of some -outbuilding, an exposed spot among trees where nothing else will grow, a -foot of ground here and there, in the perennial border and among late -flowering plants, where the Poppies will have danced through their brief -season of bloom and passed on before the former have discovered that -they need the room. Use all these odds and ends of room, but, if -possible, have a long, narrow bed of them—single and double, the deep -blood red, the gorgeous scarlet, the wonderful Shirleys, whose delicate -cups like crinkled silk seem to flush and pale with the tremulous colour -of an opal as you look at them. Plant Eschscholtzias as a border, but -sow Iceland and the Oriental Poppies, which are hardy perennials, by -themselves; otherwise they are easily destroyed in the clearing-up time -which comes after blossoming. There is a fine yellow Poppy, Hunnemannia -fumariæfolia, which should not be overlooked. Poppy seed sown in August -gives richer coloured flowers than spring-sown seed. Seeds of -Eschscholtzia and Hunnemannia should always be sown in May. Sow -broadcast as thinly as possible on soil that has been worked mellow and -fine, pressing it into the ground with a board. As it is difficult to -sow the seed thinly enough it is a good plan to mix it with fine sand—a -teaspoonful or less of seed to a teacup of sand—and scatter that as -thinly as possible. It will, even then, be found that the plants will -come up too thickly and will need to be thinned to stand a foot apart -each way. Poppies grown too closely will throw up one or two slender -stems with only a few blossoms, while, given plenty of room, they will -branch freely, producing dozens of flowers and remaining in bloom for -weeks. Mark the finest blossoms on the plant from which you wish to save -seed, removing all others as they fade, that they may not self-sow or -check the bloom. If self-sown they are apt to come up so quickly as to -be troublesome. Pull up the plants as soon as they have done blooming to -add to the compost heap, and prepare the ground, if not needed for other -plants, for the fresh seed. When there is sufficient shade to grow them -the blue of Myosotis and of Anchusa capensis is lovely among the -Poppies. - - - Phlox Drummondi - -Try a border of the dwarf Phlox Drummondi, sown to make a colour scheme. -Set six to eight inches apart, in the form of scallops, the point coming -between every other plant of the tall, perennial Phlox. Make the rows -two or three plants wide at the centre, narrowing to a single plant at -the point, using scarlet or pink, and filling in the space between the -scallops and the straight edge of the bed with solid white. Or a double -scallop, one beginning in the centre of the other, may be made of -scarlet and buff, or pink and buff, filling in the large spaces between -with white and the small spaces with Cope’s Favourite Ageratum. The -dwarf Ageratums grow very evenly and are admirably adapted for carpet -bedding. Seed of the dwarf Phlox germinates very slowly. It should be -sown where it will have bottom heat and be given plenty of time, -frequently three weeks or more. The common Phlox Drummondi germinates -more freely, and may be sown where it is to remain, thinning to six -inches apart in the rows, or it may be sown and transplanted, which -insures more even rows. - - - Salvias (Flowering Sage) - -It is surprising how seldom one sees the Salvia grown to any -considerable extent outside the public gardens and parks, though no -other flower can compare with it in richness of colour and freedom of -bloom, but there seems to be an impression that it must be purchased -from a florist or grown from cuttings. Salvia is much more desirable for -bedding than for any other purpose. In the house it is subject to -attacks of red spider, which make it more trouble to care for than it is -worth, while in the open ground it is remarkably healthy and free from -insect pests. - -Seed should be started early in flats or hotbed, and plants set out -where they are to remain, when all danger of frost is past, as they are -very sensitive to cold. Muck or marsh earth seems the most congenial -soil in which to grow the Salvias, and if this is supplied they will -need little care beyond watering during the summer. - -I have grown the Salvia splendens—the usual height of which is about two -and a half feet—to a uniform height of five feet in a bed of marsh -earth, with a supply of water from a pipe, keeping it constantly moist. -They will do well in the hottest situation if well supplied with water, -and even better in partial shade—the foliage being a deeper green and -the colour of the blossoms richer and more velvety than when exposed to -full sunlight. For years I have grown them around a twelve-foot bed of -Ricinus and Cannas, and notice that the plants are always much finer on -the north side. - -Try them as a border to a bed of Cannas or Ricinus, edging them with -white Sweet Alyssum or dwarf Ageratum. They root readily in wet sand in -a warm situation, and if a house-plant is available it may be used for -cuttings instead of sowing seed. - -Seed may be saved without injury to the plants as it ripens, and must be -gathered before the flowers entirely fade. The corolla or lip of the -flower falls out, leaving four white seeds an eighth of an inch long at -the base of the calyx, which remains fresh until the seeds have ripened, -when they may be shaken out. By going over the plants daily one soon -saves a fine lot of seed, which may be depended upon to germinate. The -Salvia seed germinates in about five days. But less vigorous seed will -continue to appear for two or three weeks after sowing, and the soil -should not be disturbed until all have had time to appear. They require -considerable heat to germinate freely, and when this is supplied will -give very satisfactory returns. Bonfire, Clara Bedman, and S. splendens -are the best of the scarlet-flowered variety. The white-flowered Salvias -would be desirable if the blossoms were more closely massed on the -spray; as it is they are too scattered to have any value. S. patens, -however, when brought to perfection is magnificent, the individual -flowers being double the size of the scarlet and of the most wonderful -shade of blue. It is seldom seen, but should have a place in every -garden, as it is a colour rare among flowers, the nearest approach to it -being the Monkshood. It is a tender perennial, but may be wintered in a -warm, dry cellar, dying down to the ground usually, but starting up from -the root in the spring. - -Sweet Alyssum and Golden Saxatile are both desirable for edging or for -rockwork, and may either be sown in the open ground where they are to -remain, or in a seed-bed and transplanted. - - - Sweet-peas - -So much has been written on this subject that the culture of Sweet-peas -might, without much exaggeration, be called a cult. Though blooming with -its head in the sun, the Sweet-pea loves to plunge its roots deep in the -cool, moist earth, and the seed should be planted as early in the spring -as the ground can be worked, or, better yet, in the fall. This late fall -planting has much to recommend it, as there is more leisure and the work -is apt to be better done than in the hurried days of spring when -everything seems to call for immediate attention. - -The seed should be planted deep in two rows a foot apart, running, if -possible, north and south, that the plants may receive the maximum -amount of sunshine. Placed in this way, they receive both morning and -afternoon sun. A strip of wire netting five feet high should be -stretched between the rows and securely fastened to stout posts driven -into the ground. Six-foot netting is even better than five, as the -Sweet-pea loves to climb, and blooms better if not thwarted. Dig on each -side of the netting, as close as may be without breaking the space -between, a trench a foot or eighteen inches deep and as wide as is -necessary to work conveniently. Place in the bottom about six inches, -when trodden down, of old, well-rotted cow manure, fill in about six -inches of the removed soil, making it fine and mellow; sow the seed and -cover with two or three inches of soil and press firmly down. If planted -in the fall protect with several inches of rough manure, removing it in -the spring that the soil may get the benefit of the sun’s warmth. When -the plants are two or three inches high thin to six inches apart in the -rows, and draw up part of the soil removed from the trench. Add more as -the plants grow until it is all banked up against them, leaving a slight -trench between the ridges and the surface of the ground. - -The wire should come close to the ground that the plants may have -support from the start. Do not water until necessary, then sufficient -water should be poured into the trench to thoroughly soak the ground at -the bottom of the roots, but do not turn it on the foliage or stems. -Thorough and frequent cultivation should be given during the blooming -season. Should it become necessary to shower the foliage during dusty -weather it would better be done early in the morning or sufficiently -early in the evening to allow the foliage to dry before the chill of -night. This guards against the blight and mildew, so prevalent in -Sweet-pea culture. - -When for any reason it is not convenient to cultivate frequently, a -mulch of lawn clippings will keep the ground about the vines cool and -moist. To insure freedom of bloom all faded flowers should be removed -each day. If the flowers are cut as fast as they open the quality will -be improved. Under no circumstances should seed be allowed to form, as -the ripening of the seed is fatal to the flowers. - -There is such a bewildering variety of Sweet-peas that any suggestion of -choice is impossible, but usually the special collections put up by -seedsmen will prove more satisfactory than those of one’s own choosing, -if one is unfamiliar with the names of the varieties. - - - Verbenas - -In sowing the seed of Verbenas it is best to keep colours separate, as -white, pink, scarlet, scarlet with white eye, and the new Mayflower -Verbena—one of the finest novelties brought out in recent years. - -They should be started early in flats or hotbed, soaking the seed in hot -water for three or four hours before planting. It germinates very -irregularly, often coming up after one has ceased to expect it. The soil -should be kept moist so long as there is any chance of more plants -appearing. Verbenas will thrive in any good soil, striking root wherever -a point touches the ground. Cultivate, if in loam or stiff soil, as long -as there is room to work between the plants, which should be set at -least a foot apart. Verbenas do finely on the rockwork, seeming to enjoy -the cool corners they find under the stones, and the finest I have ever -grown have been in such a situation. - -Vincas (Periwinkles) are an exceedingly beautiful and little known -tender perennial worthy of extensive cultivation, as easily grown as an -Aster or Verbena, and very effective in large beds. For the price of one -greenhouse plant a dozen plants may be raised from seed. The foliage is -deep green and glossy, and large single flowers of exquisite colour and -texture—pure ivory white, white with a crimson eye, and rosy crimson—are -borne at the end of every branch covering the plants, which grow from -fifteen to eighteen inches high and nearly as broad. As a border for a -Canna bed nothing could be better, and they make fine symmetrical winter -bloomers. No finer plants for house decoration could be desired. - -The seeds, which should be started early in hotbeds or flats, germinate -in from ten to fifteen days, sometimes earlier. Set out plants, when all -danger of frost is past, in muck, if possible, or in well-enriched loam, -setting a foot or fifteen inches apart each way, cultivating once a -week, if in loam or stiff soil, but if in muck it will only be necessary -to mulch. Water every day during the hot weather, and if kept from -seeding they will bloom from June until cut down by frost. They do well -in full sunshine or in shade, but must have a fair amount of moisture. -If no seeds form plants may be lifted in the fall and potted in large -pots for winter blooming. - -Small plants of the Chrysanthemum obtained from the florist in the -spring will, with proper care, make fine blooming plants by fall. Plant -out, when all danger of frost is past, in a sunny bed composed of rather -sandy loam and muck well manured and made deep and mellow. Set the -plants from a foot to eighteen inches apart each way and cultivate at -least once a week during the summer. They should never suffer for water, -as if once allowed to dry out they never fully recover. - -When the plants are six or eight inches high pinch back to four inches. -Allow four branches to spring from this main stalk, removing all others. -When these are four inches long pinch back again, allowing each of the -four shoots to form three or four branches and nipping out all others as -they appear. If a few very large flowers are desired, allow only the -four branches to grow from the main stem, removing all other shoots. -When the branches are six inches in length pinch back for the last time -not later than August 1st, after which they should be allowed to grow on -undisturbed, removing all but the terminal buds if fine flowers are -desired. - -Lift by September 1st, transfer to large pots or boxes, according to the -size of the plants. The soil should be given a good watering the day -before lifting, that the earth may cling to the roots and that the plant -may be in the best condition for moving. Cut around the plant with the -trowel, leaving a ball of earth as near as possible the size and shape -of the pot it is to fill. Avoid disturbing the roots. - -Set in a cool, shady place for a few days and keep in a rather cool, dry -atmosphere after removing to the house. Water freely and give liquid -manure once a week. Do not shower the tops after buds appear, or keep -where bulbs are growing in water, as moisture at this stage is apt to -cause the buds to blast. Chrysanthemums are quite certain to be attacked -at some stage of their growth with black aphis, or lice, which are very -troublesome to get rid of once they have gained a foothold. It will be -wise, therefore, to keep the foliage constantly dusted with tobacco at -all seasons of their growth, as in this form tobacco is most effective. -Once the pest has gotten a start fumigating with tobacco smoke will be -necessary. Shut the plants in a close room or box and smoke thoroughly. - - - - - Chapter _ELEVEN_ - Vines - - -Harsh outlines of buildings, a dead tree, a dilapidated fence, a sunny -window, an obtrusive outbuilding, may be transformed by the use of -Nature’s drapery. There exists in the minds of many, unfortunately, a -prejudice against vines on the house as injurious to walls. This is -entirely unfounded, the contrary, so far as I am able to judge, being -the case, especially on the south and west sides of frame houses, where -the paint and consequently the woodwork, will be found in a much better -state of preservation when protected by such vines as Ampelopsis -Veitchi, Virginia Creeper, Woodbine, and the like, than when exposed to -the burning, blistering rays of the sun. Vines make a thick growth of -overlapping leaves which shed rain and prevent its penetrating to the -walls. In England, where it is much used, it is said that walls covered -with Ivy are almost indestructible, so hard and dry has the cement -remained under its protecting care. - - - Adlumia (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Alleghany Vine) - -One of the prettiest of summer vines is the Adlumia, though it lasts but -one short summer. It is a biennial, stooling the first summer and the -second summer bursting into a wealth of tender green foliage, as finely -cut as a fern, with hundreds of sprays of delicate flowers—a delightful -vine when grown on the north side of the house, where it retains its -fine green throughout the season, though in the hot sun it is inclined -to burn. It is especially appropriate for funerals. It self-sows, and -once established there is sure to be an abundance of it from year to -year. In the fall seeds may be scattered where the plants are to remain, -or the seed may be germinated in another spot and the seedlings -transplanted later. As the plants always receive a check when moved, it -is better to do so as early as possible in the fall, that they may -become established before cold weather. Plants should be set two feet -apart. - -Cobæa scandens (Cup-and-Saucer Vine) is a most desirable summer vine. It -grows to a great height and blooms freely, throwing great, bell-shaped -flowers—pure white, greenish white, lavender, mauve, and purple—from the -axil of nearly every leaf. The flowers of the purple variety are pale -green at first, changing through all the shades of lavender and purple -to plum. - -There is another variety—the San Salvador Cobæa—that is even more -desirable than the C. scandens. The flowers are much smaller, but have -greatly exaggerated stamens that give them distinction. Its chief -beauty, however, is the foliage of light, translucent green, to which -the sun, shining through it, gives a luminous quality rare in vines. In -manner of growth, too, it is superior, its many-lobed leaves lying -parallel to, or flat on the netting, instead of at right angles, as is -the case with C. scandens. Both these vines do well in a north or east -exposure and require less water than most vines. They are admirable for -covering an old tree or any partly dead wood. - -Seed should be started in the hotbed early in spring, setting them on -edge and covering a quarter of an inch deep. Unless the soil appears dry -they should not be watered until the plants are up and have their first -true leaves. Set out when danger of frost is past in mellow soil, -watering as needed, and giving support for the vines to cling to. To -stone and brick, or the bark of a tree, they will cling of themselves, -each leaf-spray ending in a tendril that attaches itself to any rough -surface. I have never been able to ascertain what height they will -attain if given support, but the top of a reasonably tall tree falls -short of their ambition. - -The Centrosema (Butterfly Pea) is rather a hard vine to propagate from -seed. Seeds germinate freely, but the young plants seem strangely -lacking in vigour, so that frequently, after making a few inches of -growth, they refuse to go further, and gradually dwindle away. It is -therefore better to make several sowings, soaking the seed in hot water -for an hour before using, and planting in hotbed or cold-frame. If it is -dropped an inch or two apart in the rows there will be no occasion for -disturbing until it is time to transplant into the open ground—which -would better be deferred until the plants are six or eight inches high. -They should be moved with as little disturbance as possible, pressing -the trowel down its full length and lifting and transferring to their -permanent position on the east side of the house in one operation. Water -and press the earth around the roots and furnish immediate support. Thus -treated they will usually thrive and bloom in a few weeks, continuing -until frost unless seeds form, which should not be allowed on young -plants. - -Were they much more difficult to raise, it would still be worth many -trials and failures to secure one thrifty plant, so lovely it is when in -bloom. I do not remember another plant whose blossoms give one such an -idea of perfection—of exquisite and minute finish, as this lovely -Centrosema with its beautiful colour, delicate markings, and symmetry of -form. Before it bloomed I had begun to wonder whether it was worth all -the trouble, but when I saw the first perfect blossom all doubts -vanished and I would go to much greater trouble to possess it. - -The Centrosema is of slender growth, and seldom exceeds eight or ten -feet. Plants should be set a foot apart in front of a wire trellis or -other support. They are hardy, but should be given protection in winter. - -Gourds are a very useful family. They are an ornamental feature of the -summer garden, and afford an economic and unique addition to the -winter’s supply of plant receptacles, hanging-baskets, low bowls for -Tulips, Crocus, and other bulbs. Many of them are highly ornamental and -graceful climbers—as the Wild Cucumber, Bryonopsis, Coccinea Indica, and -Abobra, which have delicate foliage and showy fruit, and may be grown -where any quick-growing vine is wanted. They are especially good for -covering rear fences or unsightly outbuildings. - -Some of the varieties have large white flowers which are finer than a -Clematis, and of the fruit of large-flowered ones the prettiest -hanging-baskets are made. Saw them in two when thoroughly ripe and dry, -remove the pulp, scrape the shell clean and thin and give a coat of -green or brown shellac inside and out, and hang with brass chains. They -are more satisfactory if the gourds are a year old and perfectly dry. A -hole must be made for drainage, and in case of bowls, tiny supports -fastened to the bottom with glue to raise them from the table, as -without the free circulation of air they are liable to mould. - -[Illustration: A DEAD TREE DRAPED WITH VINES] - -Seed must be sown as early as possible that the fruit may have time to -ripen before frost. Set out when all danger of frost is past in any -garden soil in a sunny position where they will have good support, as -they are vigorous and rapid climbers and will quickly go to the top of a -tall tree. They are liable when first set out to be eaten off by -cutworms, and they should be protected by a bottomless tin can sunk into -the ground two or three inches, care being taken that there are no worms -inside the can. The gourds do not grow for some little time after -setting out, as they are making roots; but once they begin the -development is rapid. - -The variegated Japanese Hop is another summer vine that should be -extensively grown. Its large, handsome foliage, freely splashed with -white, is very showy and effective, and it thrives in almost any -situation and soil, though paying well for extra care or attention in -the way of cultivation, watering, and food. The vines are not hardy, -but, as they self-sow, once established they are practically permanent. -Several plants should be set near each other, as only the female plant -bears seed. The leaves of this are smaller and the vine more slender. -The great-leaved, robust vine bears no seed. - -It is better to plant the seed in the fall, as when planted in the -spring it may not come up until the following year. If this is the case -the ground where it is sown should be left undisturbed until the -following spring, when it will make an early appearance. When it does -sprout the same season, the seed germinates in from eight to ten days. -The plants do equally well on north, south, east or west walls, but -should be kept sufficiently watered on the south or west. - -There is but one precaution I have found necessary in growing the -Japanese Hop: namely, to give it a rather elastic support, a twine -trellis being better than a rigid wire one. The finest Japanese Hop I -ever saw grew over a south window on a trellis of chicken netting; the -growth was wonderful, and the great leaves were beautifully splashed -with white. I was exceedingly proud of the vine, but one day I saw it -hanging limp and withered from its trellis, and an investigation -revealed the astonishing fact that it had grown so rapidly and attached -itself so firmly to the unyielding wire that it had pulled its roots -entirely out of the ground, literally committing suicide. Since then I -have used a more yielding support. - -The Japanese Morning-glory should be started in the house or hotbed and -not transplanted into the open ground until the nights and ground are -warm. - -[Illustration: FURNISH SUPPORT FOR VINES TO RUN ON] - -[Illustration: VINE-COVERED SHED] - -Many of the varieties received direct from Japan are only adapted for -growing in pots; that is how the Japanese grow them, and we can hardly -expect to improve on their methods. Pot off all plants showing unusual -markings, or oddly shaped leaves, and plunge in the sand-box, giving -sunshine and abundance of water and using large pots, or shifting -frequently as needed. Give liquid manure once or twice a week. Furnish -support for the vines to run on, either a trellis or sticks in the sides -of the pot and strings run back and forth through and around them, or -they may be trained against the wall back of the sand-box. Most of the -seeds purchased here, however, are grown in this country, and the plants -are as rugged as the old-fashioned Morning-glory. It will be noticed -that those with oddly shaped leaves and broad, hairy stems rarely bloom -here, the buds appearing too late to develop before frost. Grown in pots -these might give some interesting specimens. If only a few of the buds -are allowed to develop the size will be greatly increased. - -The Maurandya Vine is one of the most satisfactory for low trellises, -window-boxes, vases, rockwork, and the like, in summer, and for -hanging-baskets in winter. In the open air it attains a height of five -or six feet, giving an abundance of pink, white, and lavender-coloured, -foxglove-shaped flowers, an inch and a half in length. The smooth, -shining leaves are ivy-shaped and cling to supports by a twist of the -stem. It grows readily from seed, and germinates in from twelve to -fifteen days. For trellis and outdoor work start early in flats or -hotbed, setting out when danger of frost is past, but for winter use -June is early enough to sow seed. It requires no special treatment, -doing well in any situation with good soil and sufficient moisture. This -is one of the most graceful and useful vines for either summer or -winter. - -Thunbergias (Black-eyed Susans) like a warm, sunny situation, and in -good soil will grow six or eight feet tall and be covered, until cut -down by frost, with a wreath of tube-shaped, flat-faced blossoms two -inches in diameter—pure white, white with black eye, yellow with white -eye, and yellow with black eye. They are very valuable for covering low -trellises, the foundations of porches, window-boxes, urns, or rockwork -where a small vine is needed. They are admirable as basket or bracket -plants in winter. They grow freely from seed, germinating in about -twelve days, and should be started early in flats in the house or the -hotbed. Much finer plants are grown in this way than can be purchased -from the florist. Their only enemy is the red spider, and they should be -showered frequently to prevent an attack. - -The Manettia Vine is one of the most satisfactory vines for winter -blooming, requiring only a small pot and a place in a sunny window, and -blooming better when pot-bound. A daily watering, and occasional doses -of weak liquid manure when the other plants are getting it is all the -care it needs. It does not require a warm atmosphere, blooming freely in -a temperature of about 50°, and giving an unfailing succession of its -bright little flowers every day during the winter. It is that rare -thing—a plant which the florists have not overpraised. It is every bit -as good as it is claimed to be. Though equally at home in a -hanging-basket or on a trellis, I have found it most attractive when -grown on strings across the window in company with Solanum jasminoides, -whose sprays of airy white flowers contrast with the orange and scarlet -of the Manettia. A small plant obtained from the florist in spring and -potted in a four-inch pot, with good compost, will be ready to bloom by -November, and will remain in bloom from that time until spring, when it -should be repotted in a six-inch pot and plunged in the sand-box to grow -for winter blooming. The only precaution necessary is to keep it in a -small pot, as it blooms more freely when pot-bound. Cut back if not -branching freely, as the bloom comes at the ends of the new growth. - - - Clematis (Virgin’s Bower) - -The large-flowered Clematis are the most expensive vines we have. So -slowly do they propagate from cuttings that the price remains high from -year to year. The cheapest way to obtain them is to raise them from seed -and, though this is a more or less uncertain method, the expense is so -slight compared to the purchase of plants that where many are required -it is worth repeated efforts. Plant the seeds in flats in the house -either in fall or spring. Cover an eighth of an inch and press the soil -down firmly, keeping moist and warm. They germinate in from six weeks to -a year; for this reason fall planting is desirable, as the soil may more -easily be kept in the right condition. When the plants are large enough -to handle, pot off into small pots and plunge in the sand-box, if the -weather is warm enough, or in a sunny window if cold. Winter in a -frost-proof cellar the first winter, putting them in the open ground -where they are to remain till the following spring. The plants will give -a few blossoms the second season, enough to show the variety, and the -next year may be expected to bloom freely. Plants raised from seed are -more likely to bloom and do well than those from cuttings. - -Clematis paniculata comes more freely from seed than the Jackmanni -strains, and should be largely grown, as it is one of our loveliest -vines and blooms when most others have ceased. Clematis flammula -self-sows and established little plants are continually coming up in -unexpected places, which may be removed to any desired position, as this -variety does not in the least mind being disturbed. All Clematis are -benefited by winter protection, and such varieties as Ramona and other -spring bloomers should have the tops protected with sacking or old -carpet. Mrs. Edward Andre dies to the ground in the winter, but should -be well protected around the roots. Many growers cut back Clematis to -within a few feet of the ground each fall, but where large spaces are to -be covered one loses much time, as the frost usually does all the -trimming necessary. The early spring bloomers from last season’s wood -and cutting back in the fall simply lessen the blossom points. If it is -necessary to trim for symmetry or lack of room it should be done -immediately after the plants are through blooming, that they may have -abundant time for new growth. - -[Illustration: CLEMATIS PANICULATI BLOOMS WHEN MOST OTHERS HAVE CEASED] - - - Bignonia Radicans (Trumpet Vine) - -It is to be regretted that this fine vine is so common and old-fashioned -that no one seems to appreciate it sufficiently to bring it up to its -really magnificent possibilities. When grown as a shrub no finer plant -for a hedge could possibly be desired. For this purpose the plants -should be set about three feet apart, or even closer, if it is desired -that the hedge should be useful as well as ornamental. Set in an even -row where the hedge is desired, tie each plant to a stout stake, and -allow only one branch to grow, cutting this back when three feet high to -form the head, which should be made to branch freely. By the time the -stake has rotted away the plant will have made a trunk as large as one’s -wrist and perfectly self-supporting. All dead and weak branches should -be trimmed out each year and the hedge kept pruned back to symmetrical -growth. If the seed-pods are not allowed to form the plant will be in -bloom nearly all summer. Such a hedge will be a thing to bequeath to -posterity along with old oaks and fine elms. - -The Trumpet Vine is equally desirable as a climber, and on some surfaces -is self-supporting, but on others, as the side of a building or a board -fence, it often fails to attach itself, and in that case must be -artificially supported. This should be very securely done, as a hard -storm may tear a heavy-topped specimen entirely away from its support -and do much damage. The best support is afforded by stretching a -galvanised wire across a branch, just under a joint, and fastening each -end by a staple driven firmly into the building. - -Grown as a shrub on the lawn the Trumpet Vine is very fine and should be -trained to a stake and grown the same as a Kilmarnock Willow. Every -year, as my Bignonias bloom, I grow more and more enthusiastic over -their possibilities, and wish more people would grow them with some -definite aim in view. - - - - - Chapter _TWELVE_ - Ornamental Foliage Plants from Seed - - - Canna (Indian Shot) - -All Cannas—the gorgeous orchid-flowered, as well as the old-fashioned -sorts—can be easily and cheaply grown from seed and will give blossoming -plants almost as soon as those started from bulbs. When one must buy -plants and the fine new varieties are desired, the starting of an -eight-or ten-foot bed is a matter for economical consideration. Five or -six dollars is as little as one can expect to pay for such a bed if -plants are purchased, but by starting the seed the cost is reduced to a -mere bagatelle. It is better to buy seed by the ounce, as not all will -come up, and one should make sure of a sufficient quantity. The seed -must be filed on the end opposite the germ, so that the white shows -through plainly, and the best way to do it is to tack a piece of medium -sand-paper to a piece of wood and rub the seed on that. It is better to -do this before they are wanted, as it is a tedious process when one is -in a hurry. Soak the seeds in hot water for an hour or two before -planting and sow in hotbed or flat, keeping moist and warm. When large -enough to handle, prick out in thumb-pots and place in a warm, sunny -window. It would be even better to start them in tiny pots, plunged in a -box of sand or in the hotbed, to avoid danger in removing, as they -sometimes suffer in the process. Though one of the toughest plants when -of some size, the little seedlings are exceedingly tender. Shift as -needed until time to place in the open ground when all danger of frost -is past. Plant, if possible, in muck well manured, as Cannas do -exceptionally well in that soil and can scarcely have too much food and -water. Unless one has city water or other supply it is better to make -the Canna bed somewhat lower than the lawn, that all the water may be -retained and not run off, as it will if the beds are raised. If -tall-growing varieties are grown in the centre the effect will be as -good as though the bed were raised and less water will be needed. A good -mulch of lawn clippings will help to keep the soil moist, mellow, and -free from weeds and will greatly lessen the care of it. Seed sown in -February or March will give blooming plants in June, and by fall there -will be a fine lot of roots to store away for another year. - -Coleus, which are practically indispensable in all ornamental bedding, -are easily raised from seed and will make fine plants by June. Start -seed in rather deep flats in the house in February or March, covering -lightly and giving a warm place (see directions for growing house-plants -from seed). They germinate in from five to seven days. As soon as the -plants have their first true leaves place in a warm, sunny window and -encourage them to grow as rapidly as possible. When they have two or -three leaves the colours will be sufficiently developed to admit of -making selections, and if the box is at all crowded they can be potted -off and grown on until time to plant out. Coleus are very sensitive to -cold and should not be planted out in the open ground until the nights -are warm. Never allow the Coleus to flower, as this injures the foliage -greatly. Pinch out the flower heads as they appear. Water liberally and -pinch back occasionally to symmetrical form. Any soil that suits the -Canna, or other ornamental foliage plant, will do for the Coleus—a -light, sandy loam enriched with manure is as good as anything, and -leaf-mould answers admirably. - -Where a quantity of Cineraria, or Dusty Miller, is needed for borders, -it is much more economical to grow from seed, starting them in hotbeds -and planting out when all danger of frost is past, setting six inches -apart. - - - Ricinus, or Castor-oil Bean - -Probably the most effective and tropical-looking plant in cultivation -to-day is the Ricinus, and fortunately it is within the reach of -everyone. It is usually seen as a solitary specimen on the lawn, or as -the centre of a bed of other plants, or probably in a long row; it is -more effective, however, in a group, and thus grown makes a good -background for low plants. Seed should be started early in house or -hotbeds. It germinates in twelve to fifteen days. The best results will -be obtained when started in the house by planting in three-or four-inch -pots. Put two or three seeds in a pot and remove all but one if more -come up. Before filling the pots with earth mixed with good compost, a -piece of shard, or flat stone, should be placed over the drainage hole -to confine the roots, as they make a very rapid growth. Shift into -larger pots as required, and plant out when all danger of frost is past -in a deep, rich soil. Marsh earth is best, but where this is not -available any good garden soil will answer if heavily manured and well -watered. The young plants are somewhat backward after transplanting and -frequently refuse to grow at all, so that it is well to have a few -plants in reserve against a possible emergency. After the plants are a -foot high, little if any trouble will be experienced. The newer Zanzibar -varieties are the most desirable, being very fine both in colour and -development, growing under favourable conditions from eight to ten feet -tall with leaves three feet in diameter. - -[Illustration: SHIFT INTO LARGER POTS AS REQUIRED] - -Banana plants are very showy and attractive and in the North are more or -less of a novelty. They may be planted out in the open ground or in tubs -when all danger of frost is over. Though less sensitive to root -disturbance than the Ricinus, they are very impatient of the immediate -presence of other plants, and young plants should be grown by -themselves. Robust two-year-old plants, however, may be used as centres -for beds of Cannas or similar plants with fine effect. When obtainable -they should be given a compost of muck and old manure and supplied with -a very liberal amount of water; the water from the laundry and kitchen -should be saved for them, as one can scarcely overfeed them. Give a -warm, sunny situation, protected from rough winds, which whip and tear -the broad leaves, rendering them most unsightly. A southeast angle of -building or shrubbery furnishes an ideal location. In the fall the -plants may be removed to the cellar in the tubs in which they have been -grown, or they may be lifted, if grown in the open ground, and planted -in suitable tubs for the adornment of the conservatory or living-room. -Grown indoors they are very ornamental, the foliage being perfect, which -is rarely the case out of doors. It is also much easier to carry the -plants through the winter in this way; as they are very sensitive to -cold and damp when dormant and cannot be carried successfully in a -cellar where these conditions exist, even though it be free from frost. -In the South—and the same method may be employed in the North, provided -the cellar conditions are right—the plants are dug up, the soil removed, -and the roots wrapped in gunny-sacks and laid on a shelf in the cellar, -all the leaves being removed except the central one, which must be -carefully protected from all injury. - - - - - Chapter _THIRTEEN_ - Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted Plants - - -Cannas may be started any time in April or May. The old-fashioned -tall-growing varieties may be put in the open ground early in May. Cover -with three or four inches of soil and protect the bed with a little -rough manure if the nights are cold, the finest of the manure being left -to enrich the soil when the plants are up. - -The large-flowering French and Orchid-flowered Cannas are delicate and -very sensitive to cold and damp and should be started in the house with -heat. Divide the roots into points and pot separately in leaf-mould, or -they may be placed in baskets of sand set in a warm, sunny place and -kept constantly moist; this is the simplest and best way of handling -them. Cannas are less likely to mould or decay in sand than in soil, and -it is easier to keep a uniform degree of moisture in the baskets than in -the small pots. The baskets should be partly filled with fine white sand -and the roots laid in place, points up, as closely as convenient, and -sufficient sand added to cover them. They must not be planted out until -all danger of frost is past and the nights are warm, and they should -then be handled very carefully to avoid injuring the tender roots. Give -them a soil of muck or heavily manured loam and abundance of water. The -most convenient place for starting bulbs of all kinds is a warm upstairs -room, over a kitchen or elsewhere, with a south or west light. A wide -shelf may be arranged under the windows and one’s entire supply of bulbs -started there in pots and baskets out of the way. Seeds of flowers and -vegetables may also be started there to advantage. - -Dahlias are best started in the baskets of sand, putting the bunches in -whole, with the crown just below the surface of the sand. When they have -sprouted and the weather is warm they should be removed from the sand -and carefully divided. A number of tubers will have failed to start, -while others will have thrown several shoots. If the number of plants is -not sufficient more may be secured by grafting part of the green shoots -into the dormant toes. Remove a shoot, cut the end to a wedge shape, -remove a corresponding wedge from the crown of a toe and insert the -shoot; it should rest in the toe an inch or more and be placed in the -ground at once—drawing the earth around it snugly that the scion may be -in no danger of separating from the toe before it has formed a union. -Only one shoot should be left on a tuber, and the removal of the extra -ones for grafting is a distinct gain. Whenever it is necessary to divide -the roots a portion of the stem with a well-defined eye must be given to -each division, otherwise there will be no top growth; the toes will -root, but they will not grow. For further directions see chapter on -growing Dahlias from seed. - -Caladium esculentum, or Elephant’s Ears, is a native of the Sandwich -Islands, where it furnishes a staple article of food called Poa. The -root when cooked is like a potato. It is better to start separately in -pots an inch larger than the bulbs, setting the top of the bulb just -above the surface of the soil. Pot with muck or good compost and keep -moist and warm. They respond to heat and moisture the most readily of -all dormant bulbs, beginning to grow at once and making steady progress, -the root growth keeping step with the top much more uniformly than is -usual with bulbs that are wintered dry. It is an ideal plant for the -amateur, as easily grown as a hill of corn. If fine plants are desired -only those bulbs showing a live centre-shoot should be used. If the -winter conditions have been favourable the bulbs will show a strong -centre-shoot or rolled-up leaf; where this has decayed or dried off -there will frequently be side-shoots which are worth saving when the -supply of bulbs is small, and which will produce fair results, but for -really good plants the centre-shoot is necessary. - -Plant out when all danger of frost is past, in muck if possible, or in -heavily manured loam; the more freely they are watered the finer will be -the growth. Old bulbs should give leaves three feet or more in length -and correspondingly wide. - -Single specimens are fine in pots, vases, or tiles, but they are really -seen at their best in large clumps on the lawn, or edging beds of Cannas -or other subtropical plants. - -They are easily wintered and multiply very rapidly; and, as much better -effects can be obtained by planting largely of one variety, an effort -should be made to have a generous supply. Aim for a tropical luxuriance -of effect—whether the plants used are Cannas, Caladiums, Ricinus, or all -three. - -Tuberous Begonias should be started at the same time as the Caladiums, -Cannas, and other tuberous plants. Pot singly in small pots of -leaf-mould, setting the tuber level with the surface of the earth, but -shaping the soil away from it toward the edge of the pot that water may -not settle around it. The side showing a slight depression is the top. -Often it is difficult to determine this, in which case the bulb may be -laid on the surface until growth begins and the fact can be determined, -when it may be potted. Do not keep too warm, as that induces a leggy -growth; a temperature of about 60° is right. - -Bed out, when all danger of frost is past, in partial shade. In England -it is claimed that they will stand the hottest sun, but the atmosphere -of England is very different from our dry air, and the tuberous Begonia -does better with us if shaded. Where there is no natural shade an awning -of cotton cloth during the hottest part of the day answers every -purpose. Gloxinias are started the same as tuberous Begonias and require -practically the same treatment, but more heat. Fuller cultural -directions are given in the chapter on growing from seed. - -Fancy-leaved Caladiums, though belonging to the same family as C. -esculentum, bear little resemblance to that sturdier branch, being small -in growth, gorgeous in colouring, and exceedingly delicate. Unlike the -Crotons and Coleus, which revel in full sunshine, they develop their -beautiful colours best in partial or complete shade. They do, however, -love a warm atmosphere and must be guarded against sudden chills and -draughts. They are very desirable for window-boxes on the north side of -the house, for growing in sheltered nooks, and for warm, sheltered -positions on porches. Several may be grouped together in a ten-inch pot -very effectively, as they require but little room. They may be brought -inside in the fall, and kept growing until they show signs of resting, -when water should be gradually withheld until the leaves have ripened. -The pots should then be set away in a warm, dry place—as a shelf in a -closet—until wanted the following spring. - -Such wonderful things have been accomplished in Gladiolus culture that -one scarcely recognises the old favourite. All along the line, size, -colour, texture, markings show the effect of a high state of cultivation -and careful hybridising. The Childsi are, perhaps, the finest; while -several of the strains of giant Gladiolus show wonderful size and -colour. They increase rapidly, and one should buy a few bulbs each year -so as to maintain a high standard. - -When ready to plant, remove all loose husks, dead roots, and stalks, -leaving the bulb clean and fair. Plant directly in the open ground, -sufficiently late for frost to have gone by the time they are up. Plant -the bulbs eight inches deep in fine leaf-mould, or a mixture of muck, -loam and old manure, or even well-enriched garden loam. Planted deeply -they will not need staking—an important point in growing Gladioli; nor -will they be so much affected by cold, heat, or draught as in the case -of shallow planting, and may be planted earlier and left much later in -the fall, giving the bulbs more time to ripen. - -They should be cultivated frequently during the summer or well mulched -and supplied with water as needed. No seed should be allowed to form, as -the plants make new bulbs each year, sometimes several, and that, with -the production of flowers, is enough for one plant. A plant that seeds -freely will not produce as many or as good bulbs. Take up in the fall -before the ground begins to freeze, and put in a warm, sunny place for a -few days to dry. Remove the stems by cutting off six or eight inches -above the bulb, but do not attempt to pull or break them, as that will -injure the new shoot which lies just inside the old stalk. Tie in -bunches and hang in a dry, cool place, free from frost, or store in -paper sacks. - -Montbretias resemble the Gladioli in flower and foliage, but are very -slender of growth. They throw long, graceful sprays of brilliant -scarlet, orange, and lemon, very desirable for cut flowers. The flowers -open successively, as do the Gladioli, and are in bloom a long time. -They may be grown in the corners of the Gladiolus bed with good effect. -The culture is the same, except that the Montbretias are not planted so -deeply—about three inches. They multiply very rapidly—about fourfold, -and are as easily cared for as the Gladioli. - -Tigridias (Shell Flowers) are beautiful in colour, and odd in shape, and -rather gorgeous in effect whether set singly or in groups. The colours -are a pure white, white with lilac, purple and white, yellow and orange -with dark spots, white with a brownish spot on a yellow ground, and rose -colour. The flower remains open for only a day, but as there is always -another to take its place it is not missed. They would better be started -in the house in pots and bedded out when frost is past, as, planted in -the open ground, they sometimes fail to appear. Lift and dry in fall and -store in a dry, warm place during winter, examining occasionally for -mould or grey lice. The leaf much resembles that of the date-palm, being -ribbed and pointed at either end. - -Summer-blooming Oxalis are very desirable plants for borders. They are -extensively grown in parks and public gardens, but are little seen in -private grounds. They are the most easily raised of all the bulbous -plants and increase in a manner quite alarming, each bulb forming a long -tuber resembling a white radish in general appearance, and covered with -small bulbs—probably fifty—the top being crowned with one large bulb, -the source of the season’s florescence. These bulbs are not a solid -body, as would appear at first glance, but are made up of hundreds of -minute scales like a lily bulb. Added to its interesting character below -ground is its rather remarkable performance above ground. It comes into -leaf and blossom two weeks after planting, about the time the first tiny -tips of other bulbs appear. - -One great advantage of this precocity of growth is that Oxalis may be -substituted when for any reason other border plants have failed to come -up and it is necessary to replace them in a hurry. Often a hardy border -plant winter-kills and one keeps waiting for it to start until it is too -late to get plants from seed, then the little Oxalis comes to the -rescue. - -Buy them by the hundred and set about three inches apart and about two -inches deep. Take up in the fall and put in a sunny place to dry, -turning often; when dry remove from the centre tuber and sort, saving -the largest bulbs. - - - Crinums and Amaryllis - -For the past year or so an unusual amount of interest has been shown in -this magnificent class of plants, followed in many instances by grievous -disappointment, as, led away by the glowing descriptions of the dealers, -investments are made in bulbs whose proper culture is entirely unknown. -It is to be regretted that dealers sending out bulbs requiring special -treatment—as the Crinums—do not give instructions for their culture. It -would save a vast amount of disappointment, complaint, and distrust. -Unfortunately many florists do not themselves understand their -requirements; they merely purchase the bulbs from other dealers, and -publish trade advertisements and illustrations. - -Seen in bloom under proper conditions and treatment it is not strange -that florists wax eloquent in their praise, and invest heavily in bulbs -which they sell to an ignorant and confiding public. There is, however, -little difficulty in growing the Crinum—indeed, I know of no plant more -easily grown, once it is understood. - -Most of the complaints show that there has been no effort made to study -the nature of the plant. A little study would show that an immense bulb -like Crinum ornatum must have a generous supply of roots to sustain it; -that these roots must have time to grow, commensurate with the length of -time the bulb has been out of the ground, and that not much could be -expected of it until these conditions were fulfilled. These facts are -obvious from a study of the dry bulb, other facts are only arrived at -after experience with the Crinum as a plant. - -The root growth is quite in keeping with the size of the bulb; it forms -great quantities of fleshy white roots as thick as pipe-stems, which are -very impatient of disturbance and should be left practically unmolested -for a number of years. When a bulb is prepared for market these roots -are all removed. It is not strange that when called upon to rally from -the shock of dismemberment and to replace the entire root growth it -should sometimes fail to bloom as readily as expected. Often only a -portion of the former roots start again, and this must be taken into -consideration when anticipating bloom. - -When a dry bulb is received from the florist it should be potted at once -in a pot two inches larger in diameter than the bulb, that is, one -allowing one inch of space between the pot and the bulb all around. Good -potting soil, loam, leaf-mould, or muck, good sharp sand and old, -well-rotted manure should be used. I do not think the muck absolutely -essential, except in the case of C. Americana, which may be grown in -pure muck, but good fibrous loam and sharp sand must be used. Place an -inch or two of drainage material in the bottom of the pot, covering with -sphagnum moss to keep the water from washing the soil into the drain and -clogging it; fill within an inch of the top of the pot with soil; press -the bulb into it, making a depression the shape of the base of the bulb -and a couple of inches deep; line this hollow an inch deep with clean -white sand, replace the bulb, water, and give a warm, sunny position. -The bulb may be lifted and examined daily without injury, to note the -root development and to watch for signs of blue-mould, which is apt to -attack the Crinum if slow in rooting and which, when it appears, should -be carefully wiped off. As soon as the root growth has fairly commenced -the bulb must not again be disturbed, as there is then danger of -injuring the root. This inspection shows the root development the bulb -is likely to make, and gives an idea of the probable florescence. The -bulb is planted on top, and not in the soil, but if it makes the root -growth it should that will hold it as firmly as though it were entirely -embedded. - -Usually a bulb will bloom in about three months from potting, sometimes -sooner, but it is better to allow it a margin of time. Few leaves are -made up to blooming time, but after the bloom has faded the foliage -grows rapidly and, in the case of large bulbs, is really magnificent. -When the foliage begins to fade and turn yellow at the tips the growth -for the season is practically over, and water should be gradually -withheld, and the plant allowed to rest. From this time on give only -sufficient water to keep the plant from going dust-dry. Enough water may -be given to keep the roots from shrivelling but not sufficient to induce -top growth. Soon after starting it will be noticed, perhaps, that the -bulb has shrunk and grown smaller and somewhat soft. As the foliage dies -it becomes firm and hard again, the strength of the top has returned to -the bulb from which it came, and it is at this period that it makes its -own growth and prepares for another season of bloom, readiness for which -it will announce by beginning to grow though water be withheld. The top -earth—which should be dry at this time—should be removed as far as -possible without disturbing the roots, and replaced with good, rich -soil. Water freely, and when the buds appear give a little weak liquid -manure once a week. The second blooming will be much finer than the -first, as the plant has now sufficient root growth to support both stalk -and blossom. - -Should the bulb outgrow its quarters it may be shifted into a pot two -sizes larger, care being taken not to disturb the roots. In this way the -Crinum may be grown on from year to year, shifting when really -necessary, renewing the top-soil each year without disturbing the roots -and allowing it seasons of complete rest. This is the whole secret of -Crinum culture—undisturbed root action and well-defined seasons of rest -and growth. It requires a warm, sunny window in winter, and an eastern -exposure in summer, where it will get the full morning sun and be -protected from rough winds which injure the foliage. In protected -situations certain varieties, as C. Kunthianum, hold their great leaves -erect and are very fine; they will not do this when exposed to wind. -Care must be taken to protect them from heavy rain, as water settling in -the leaves sometimes causes the bulb to rot. I have lost some very fine -specimens from this cause. A protected sand-box is an ideal place for -them, as the evaporation from the wet sand supplies just the moist -atmosphere they like. They may be wintered in a warm, dry cellar, but, -if the cellar is at all cold or damp, it will be better to keep them on -the back of the plant-stand or on a shelf in a closet where they may be -inspected frequently. - -Crinums are such expensive floral luxuries that it pays to take good -care of them. Many varieties make few offshoots, and hence can never -become cheap, but there is a distinct pleasure in possessing something -rare and fine. - -Unfortunately much confusion exists in regard to the two Crinums, Kirkii -and ornatum, and the same bulb is often offered under different names. -The dealers themselves seem to have no clear idea as to which is which. -I believe, however, that ornatum is distinguished by a pink stripe -through the centre of each petal, while the corresponding stripe in -Kirkii is reddish-purple; these two are the most uncertain and -unsatisfactory of all Crinums in the hands of the amateur. - -C. Moorei, also often offered as ornatum or Kirkii, is one of the -choicest Crinums and a native of South Africa. Its flowers, produced in -umbels of from ten to twelve, are of a soft, delicate blush with a pink -bar through the centre of each petal. It is deliciously fragrant, and -the large bulb and handsome foliage much resemble C. ornatum. C. -erubescens is another rare tropical species, having umbels of as many as -a dozen lily-like flowers of a claret-purple outside and a soft pink -inside with filaments of dark red. It is a free bloomer of easy culture. -C. Capense rosea has the reputation of being the most easily grown of -any Crinum, and is quite hardy with protection as far north as St. -Louis. It is said to winter in the cellar like a Dahlia. Farther north -it should be given the same care in winter as other varieties. The -flowers are numerous—white flushed with rose with a pink stripe through -the centre, and more drooping than the flower in other species. C. -scabrum, often called Christ and the Apostles, having thirteen flowers, -produces an abundance of pale-green foliage beautifully waved and -crimped. It has usually two flower scapes at once, flowers much like the -old Annunciation Lily, but with a longer tube, so that the outer row -droops. The six broad petals are pure, sparkling white with a light red -stripe down the outside of each and a pink one on the inside. This is -one of the most desirable varieties. C. fimbriatum—Milk-and-wine Lily—is -much like C. Kirkii in habit and appearance, but smaller, the flowers -being but three or four inches in diameter, the foliage more erect and -sword-like. - -[Illustration: SHOULD BULB OUTGROW ITS QUARTERS SHIFT INTO POT TWO SIZES -LARGER] - -C. pedunculatum grows to a magnificent size, fine specimens averaging -six feet in height and width. Its flowers, of pure white with purple -anthers, are formed in umbels of thirty or more; the petals are narrow -and the flowers exquisitely fragrant. It has a queer stump-like bulb -which grows to an immense size, and is an evergreen, producing its -flowers at intervals through the year like C. Americana, which has also -pure white, fragrant flowers, the petals long and narrow. The latter, -when in bloom, throws up one immense spike in the centre of the foliage, -giving the plant the appearance of a great rounded bouquet. It is a -native of the Florida swamps, and should be grown in muck with -considerable moisture, blooming best when pot-bound. C. grandolia, or -augustum, is the finest of all the Crinums: one grown in Florida “with -leaves six feet long and correspondingly wide, with a crown of bloom the -size of a bushel measure.” Its umbels of flowers, thirty or more in -number, with broad petals eight inches long, make a magnificent display. -The buds are a purplish-red, the flowers, when open, a blood red -outside, and a delicate, satiny flush inside. The bulbs grow to an -immense size. - -C. Kunthianum, another of the large-growing Crinums, is highly to be -recommended for amateur culture, being much more easily managed than -either ornatum or Kirkii. It is evergreen, and has broad strap leaves of -a bluish green that, in the house, are held erect, and for this reason -it presents the finest appearance of all Crinums. It throws up a tall -spike crowned with ten or twelve large, lily-like flowers of a rosy -white with crimson stripes through the petals. - -The general treatment of Amaryllis is the same as for Crinums. Disturb -the roots as little as possible, and give as complete seasons of rest as -the plant seems to require. When it is apparent that they are trying to -rest they should not be forced to grow, but aided to sleep by judicious -withholding of water, tempering of the light, and the like. Evergreen -Amaryllis, like the Aulica platypetala, do not need these periods of -complete rest, but they need a partial rest, and as long as no new -leaves appear should be watered moderately and the roots left -undisturbed as long as possible. Remove all offshoots that have grown to -any size when the plant starts to grow and the top-soil is being -renewed, and pot them off in small pots an inch larger than the bulbs. -The number of fine hybrids have increased so rapidly of late years that -it is impossible to describe them separately, as many of them are flaked -and splashed with colour in a wonderful manner. Of the old-time -favourites it is doubtful if any excels the A. Johnsonii, and a -collection of Amarylli might well begin with this. - -Tuberoses should be started in a warm place where they will not be -exposed to draughts or chills. Before potting, take a sharp knife and -remove all the old root and hard substance about the base, leaving but a -thin layer below the bulb. Unless this is done, growth will be either -delayed or prevented, as the new growth cannot push through this hard -substance. Pot singly in four-inch pots and keep moist and warm until -growth begins, when they may be given a position in a sunny window, and -encouraged to grow until time for planting out in the open ground, after -all danger of frost is past. If it is not desired to plant directly in -the open ground they may be shifted into six-or eight-inch pots and -plunged in the ground. They must be plunged to the brim, or over, and -will require more water than when growing in the ground. If they are -still blooming at the approach of frost they may be lifted and removed -to the house. Others that have been bedded out may be lifted, potted, -and brought in, and will bloom as freely, though not as quickly, as -those in pots. Disturbing the roots does not seem to interfere at all -with the process of bloom. - -The double pearl Tuberose blooms but once, and it is hardly worth while, -unless one has much room and time, to try to bring the small bulbs -forward to the blooming stage, as they must be cultivated for two or -three summers and cared for for as many winters. The variegated leaved, -however, blooms from year to year, and should be taken up in the fall -and stored in a warm, dry place. This variety is single, but very -fragrant and pretty. Tuberoses do well in the Gladiolus bed, and their -pure white spikes are very attractive among the more brilliant flowers, -but they should be planted in clumps and not scattered among the -Gladioli. - - - - - Chapter _FOURTEEN_ - Aquatics - - -There is special delight in the cultivation of aquatics, due partly to -the novelty of the work, and partly to the feeling of rest associated -with this particular branch of floriculture. One can rarely go into the -garden in the early summer without seeing something to do, a plant to be -trimmed, or a vine the wind has blown down, and always plants needing -water. When the lily pond is reached, be it natural or artificial, one -feels that here there is rest, for an established lily pond seldom needs -care. In small tanks the water must be renewed occasionally, but once a -week will be sufficient. - -Probably the simplest way of constructing a lily pond where the lay of -the land and soil are favourable, is to mark out a desired area, remove -about two feet of soil and turn the cattle on it. With stiff clay soil -this will in a few months give a bottom sufficiently hard to hold water. -Spread several inches of muck and old manure on this prepared ground and -the place is ready for the water, which may be piped from a well or -supplied by a wind-mill. Such a pond has this advantage over one made of -cement, that semi-aquatic plants, such as Reeds and Bamboos, Japanese -Iris, Cardinal Flowers, and the native Flame Lily may find a place on -its banks and add greatly to the beauty of the pond. - -When one is so fortunate as to have a little stream flowing through a -corner of the grounds it can be diverted to form a pond with sufficient -current to prevent stagnation, yet not enough to interfere with the -growing of water-plants. By selecting a low spot beside the stream very -little excavating will be necessary, and the nature of the soil and -force of the water will decide what, if any, barrier may be needed. -Should the stream be some distance from the house a shrubbery, hardy -perennials, and an occasional tree may lead up to the pond. If this is -so fortunately placed as to be on the north side of the grounds, so that -the sun lies on it when seen from the house, the effect will be greatly -heightened by a clump of evergreens on its northern shore, making a -background to arrest the eye and focus it on the lily pond. Where the -landscape is limited, a group of tall Bamboos is effective at this -point, and Japanese Iris may have a place in the foreground; Sagittarias -and ornamental grasses may also be used with good results. - -[Illustration: WILD WATER FLOWERS FOR EDGING LILY-POND] - -Where one lacks the advantage of natural conditions a cement pond is a -good substitute. It may be expensively constructed with piping for -water, drainage, etc., or it may be made at a cost of from five to -thirty dollars, according to size. Five or six by eight, or eight by ten -or twelve feet, will be found convenient sizes, as they will admit of -reaching the centre. The basin should be about two feet deep when -completed, and if of clay the soil should be wet and made as hard and -smooth as possible. If the soil is loose and sandy it will need a coat -of clay before applying the cement. This may be done by mixing the clay -with water to the consistency of mortar and applying in any convenient -way. Allow this to dry before using the cement. A neat curbing will -greatly improve the appearance of the pond. - -When the cement is perfectly dry, place six inches of old, well-rotted -manure in the bottom of the basin, and cover with eight or ten inches of -muck. Make this smooth and level, and cover with one or two inches of -clean white sand to keep the water clear and sightly and prevent the -muck from rising to the surface. Fill with hose or watering-pot, letting -the pond overflow until the water is clear and the sand firm and smooth, -when it is ready for plants. - -When a permanent bed of this kind is out of the question, a large zinc -tub, or half a hogshead, will make a small water-garden. These would -better be raised somewhat above the surface of the ground to protect -them from decay. Three small five-inch drain-tiles laid sidewise make a -good foundation, and a very pretty effect may be obtained by piling -rough stones around the tank. Fill in with earth and cover with vines -and plants suitable for a rockery. If a tall Bamboo, or even a fine -clump of Papyrus or Umbrella-plant can be grown on the north side, so as -to overtop the tank without shutting off the sunshine, it will add much -to the general effect. The Lily pond should have full sunshine, but be -protected from rough winds, as the leaves of large Lilies that stand -well above the water are easily injured. The Egyptian Lotus is the -finest of all Lilies suitable for growing in small ponds or tanks. These -plants should be purchased from growers, as they do not seed in this -country and the imported seed is uncertain. One plant is sufficient for -a tub or tank, as they increase very rapidly and do better when not -crowded. - -One of these Lilies may be placed in the centre of a small pond of ten -feet or more, and other Lilies grouped around the sides. Hardy Nymphæas -may be planted in the soil of the pond, while the more tender -Zanzibarenses should be planted in twelve-inch pots and plunged in the -tank, as these are not hardy like the Nelumbiums, to which class the -Lotus belongs. Both the Egyptian and the American Lotus are quite hardy -in the open ground with a protection of rough litter and boards. An -interesting peculiarity of the Lotus, by which it may be distinguished -from other Lilies when quite small or out of bloom, is that water -splashed on the leaves always rolls up into little drops like -quicksilver instead of spreading over the leaves, as on Nymphæas and the -like. - -[Illustration: WATER LILIES, WITH BACKGROUND OF BAMBOO AND NATIVE -GRASSES] - -There are several varieties of Nymphæas suitable for amateur -cultivation—the Cape Cod Water Lily, with its large, cup-shaped flowers -of a lovely pink; T. Richardson, probably the finest white variety; our -native Nymphæas, and the lovely Zanzibar Lilies in blue and crimson. -These last are very easily raised from seed, which, if planted early in -February, will give bloom by July, and may be wintered in a warm, dry -cellar. In a cold, damp cellar they rot. If grown in tubs drain off the -water at the approach of cold weather, remove to the cellar and keep -merely moist. If grown in ponds it is better to plant them in pots, -which may be lifted and brought into the cellar for the winter. Into a -large bowl or crock put a few inches of rich soil, cover with clean -white sand and turn on tepid water until it runs clear. Sow the lily -seed on the surface of the water; it will go to the bottom when entirely -wet and be more evenly distributed than would be the case were it sown -on the soil and the water turned over it. - -Through the clear water the whole process of germination may be watched. -In six days a thread-like sprout will have started from the swollen -seed; in six days more this thread-like shoot changes into a tiny -dart-shaped leaf; in another six a true leaf comes upon the scene, a -very small lily-pad, but giving promise of great performance. - -When the dish becomes crowded transplant into other dishes, keeping -plants out of water as short a time as possible. When the nights are -warm—at least 60°—plant out in tubs or ponds. For the first year an -eight by ten foot pond may have a Nelumbium in the centre, two or three -Zanzibar varieties on either side, and pink and white Nymphæas at the -end. If the plants have done well reduce the number the second year. - -Water Hyacinths are found interesting principally because they are more -or less of a novelty even at the South, having been introduced from -Venezuela about fourteen years ago. This plant has already proved itself -a nuisance in the Florida rivers, seriously interfering with navigation -and calling for appropriations from the Government for its destruction. -In house or garden cultivation the roots increase rapidly. A small plant -set in a tub in full sunshine in May will fill it by August. The leaves -form rosettes and expand at the stem into a sort of bladder that -supports the plant on the surface of the water. The roots trail in the -water until the plant is ready to bloom, when they enter the soil. The -flowers are a pleasing shade of lavender with a yellow centre and form -in spikes like a Hyacinth. Paris green must not be used in the water -where the Hyacinths are grown, but lumps of charcoal and a small -quantity of kerosene may be substituted. - -[Illustration: A FULL BLOWN CAT-TAIL] - -A few Water Poppies holding their bright yellow cups well above the -surface of the water are always attractive, and Parrot’s Feather -trailing over the sides of the tub gives a bit of tender green through -the summer, but the rockwork, with ferns and plants and a tall reed or -two, makes a much tidier appearance. The Papyrus—the plant from which -our first paper was made—is very effective and will grow wherever a -Canna thrives, though it prefers a low, damp soil. It must be wintered -in greenhouse or cellar. A well-developed clump will grow to a height of -ten feet. Several varieties of Bamboo, to be had from South Florida -nurseries, will do well in the North in summer and stand a considerable -degree of cold. Bambusa arundinacea is a magnificent quick-growing sort -from forty to sixty feet tall at maturity, and will stand considerable -frost. B. aurea and B. Metake are hardy with good protection at the -North. B. Metake is a handsome evergreen species of considerable -decorative value for indoor culture, growing six feet tall with large, -handsome foliage, while A. falcata is a pretty variety with the tiniest -of leaves. Bamboo requires an abundant water-supply, and is therefore -most suitable for the borders of natural ponds, or low, damp spots on -the grounds. - -The objection raised to ponds is that they breed mosquitoes and malaria -and are likely to become offensive. So will anything that is neglected, -but there is not the slightest reason for the lily pond becoming a -nuisance in any way. A small amount of Paris green in the water—a -teaspoonful to an eight-foot pond—will keep it perfectly clear and sweet -and prevent the formation of green scum and moss, so offensive in -stagnant water, and the breeding of mosquitoes. Or a little charcoal and -kerosene will give the same results. - -[Illustration: NATIVE PLANTS EDGING A NATURAL WATER GARDEN] - - - - - Chapter _FIFTEEN_ - The Care of the Summer Rose-bed - - -The old-fashioned June Roses, with their long season of flowerless -bloom, hardly repay the trouble of raising. The hardy perpetuals and -hybrid Teas may now be purchased so cheaply that, even though a large -proportion of them should not survive the winter, a small outlay will -replace them. The thorniness of the old hardy June Rose adds greatly to -the labour of caring for them, and this alone would lead some to discard -them. - -If, however, one clings to the old-fashioned Roses from economy or -sentiment, they should be grown to their fullest possibilities by -pruning, cultivation, and liberal mulching with coarse manure in the -fall, and lawn clippings in the summer. Pruning should be done late in -the winter or early in the spring before the sap begins to run. Remove -all weak and straggly branches, cutting back the new growth to the first -strong leaf-buds on the shoot. It is well to cut out the centres, as the -new growth will quickly fill the space and be stronger and better in -every way for the removal of the old wood. It will also leave less wood -and briers to collect and hold dead leaves and grass during winter, -which must be taken out, at the expense of bleeding fingers, in the -spring. Bushes which grow upright with little wood at the base are more -easily cared for. Only strong, new growths should be left, which will -break freely and give firm new wood, producing fine flowers. Breaking -means the starting of young leaf-buds at the axils of each leaf, which -sprout and form new branches. It is the new wood that bears the flowers, -so that its growth should be encouraged. The fewer shoots allowed to -grow the finer will be the flowers. - -Cultivate thoroughly in spring and fall and give a heavy mulch of lawn -clippings during summer. Mulch heavily with coarse manure in the fall, -digging in the best of it in the spring. It is not necessary to give -winter protection, though it is best to wrap the tops with straw when -exposed to cold winds. - -Hardy climbers should have all weak shoots removed, and branches that -are too long shortened. Thin out a part of the canes to give room for -air and growth, and remove all wood that has grown too hard to break, as -it will produce no new wood and is only an incumbrance. - -For the summer rose-bed nothing equals the Hybrid Teas, which bloom from -June until frost. If young plants are purchased in the spring they may -be bedded out at once, if sent by express with the ball of earth about -their roots intact. If sent by mail it will be better to pot off in -three-inch pots, and set in a cool, rather shady place for a few days, -bringing gradually into the sunshine until they have become established, -when they may be turned out into the open ground without disturbing -their roots. If planted at once in the open ground, the more delicate -ones would be likely to perish. - -Give the rose-bed a sunny, protected situation, using a soil of good -garden loam, clay, and old, well-rotted manure, made deep and mellow. If -the plants are the small mail-order size set one foot apart each way, -planting according to directions for transplanting, and make the soil -_very firm_ and _hard_ about their roots. Cultivate frequently, or mulch -with lawn clippings, working them in as they decay. _Liquid manure must -not be given until the plants are growing vigorously, when it may be -applied once or twice a week._ More plants are injured by the -injudicious use of fertilisers than in any other way. - -If two-year-old plants are purchased, set from eighteen inches to two -feet apart each way. See that each plant has a zinc or wooden label -securely fastened to it, or, what is better, make a list in their -regular order, or a diagram of the bed in a note-book. This permanent -memorandum will enable you to be sure of the name of any particular -Rose. - -Cut Roses with a liberal amount of the stem, and only enough pruning -will be needed to keep them in good shape and remove any weak growth. It -is a good plan to cut them down to a bud that will be likely to throw a -good shoot. Hardy Perpetuals or monthly Roses often fail to give more -than a few early spring flowers at the tips of the branches. If the -plants are in good condition, and the branches of some length, peg the -ends down to the ground with a clothes-pin or stick, as the tendency in -Rose growth is for new wood to start from the highest point. Bending the -end down brings the highest point at the middle of the branch, which -will then break and bloom. - -Roses, especially the old hardy kinds, will often refuse to bloom, -though well cared for and sufficiently pruned. In such cases -root-pruning may be resorted to by cutting down on two sides of the -plant with the spade and severing a part of the roots. This will often -induce bloom when all other methods fail. Plants occasionally run to -roots as well to tops. - -So many and varied are the insect enemies that a hardy Rose, with even -fair foliage, is rare during the season of bloom, unless ceaseless -warfare has been waged from the first swelling of the buds. Slugs, rose -thrip or hopper, and rose-bugs make the life of the rose-grower a -weariness. On this account alone I would recommend discarding the June -Roses in favour of the Teas, which are fairly free from these pests. -Their dark-green, healthy foliage is a striking contrast to the -worm-eaten, rusty foliage of the hardy Rose. The only weakness they show -is an occasional tendency to mildew, and this may be avoided by giving -an airy, sunny situation, setting far enough apart to insure free -circulation of air, and watering early that the foliage may dry before -the chill of night. The remedy is flowers of sulphur dusted over the -leaves. - -[Illustration: TRAINING A CLIMBING ROSE] - -Rose-slugs are small green worms that feed on the foliage, lying on the -under side of the leaves, which they roll around them or draw together -with a slight web. The remedy is to spray the under side of the foliage -with kerosene emulsion, or with hot water heated to 140°, being careful -to reach every part, or to go over the plant leaf by leaf, pinching the -leaves between the fingers and crushing them. The rose hopper, or thrip, -is a small, yellowish-white insect feeding on the under side of the -leaves, sucking their juice and causing them to turn yellow. The best -remedy is the whale-oil solution sprayed on the under side. For rose -bugs, or beetles, spraying with Paris green is quite effective, but it -must be used promptly, as the amount of injury they can do in a short -time is remarkable. After using an insecticide, the plants should be -thoroughly sprayed with clear water, and if treated with Paris green -label them, that no one may be poisoned by eating the rose-leaves. Roses -for pillows should not be gathered from plants that have had any kind of -poison used on them. - -Roses kept in the house during winter are sometimes attacked with green -lice. They may be treated with tobacco in some of its forms, or with hot -water—dipping the entire plant in a pail of water heated to 130°. I -prefer the hot-water treatment, as it leaves the plant clean and -invigorated. Few, if any, plants are injured by it, and most are -benefited. Where there is any question of the effect on a particular -plant a single branch may be dipped as an experiment. It is difficult to -make any choice of Roses where all are so beautiful. American Beauty is -probably the most popular crimson Rose to-day. The Bride stands first -among the whites. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria is a most desirable hardy -white, and the new rose, Virginia R. Coxe—also offered under the name of -Gruss an Teplitz—is one of the most desirable reds; a profuse and -constant bloomer with loose-petalled, medium-sized flowers of the -richest scarlet, shading to glowing velvety crimson. Among the climbers -Mrs. Robert Perry is the finest, an immense, pure, creamy white, quite -hardy, and a free and constant bloomer, valuable for cut flowers. - -If one has room for a hundred varieties it is easy to select that number -with the certainty that there need not be a poor Rose among the number. - -[Illustration: A ROSE-COVERED BUILDING] - - - - - Chapter _SIXTEEN_ - The Hardy Lily-bed - - -There is no better investment for the garden than a bed of hardy Lilies, -which should be started in the fall as early as the bulbs may be had. -This is often later than is desirable, but the matter is entirely beyond -control. The best that can be done is to get orders for foreign-grown -bulbs placed early in the fall. It is not necessary to wait for the new -catalogue, as the old will give the varieties and approximate cost. The -main thing is to get in the order early that it may be filled promptly -when the bulbs arrive. Orders received last are filled last. This means -not only considerable delay, but second choice in bulbs; the -first-comers secure the best, the last must take the cullings. - -Having ordered your bulbs, proceed at once to make your beds. Better -results are obtained by planting Lilies in beds with fibrous-rooted -plants, hardy shrubs, and perennials that do not need frequent -disturbing. The Lily is very impatient of moisture, and water standing -around the roots in winter is absolutely fatal. A raised bed of Peonies -affords favourable conditions, provided there is sufficient room between -the plants for the Lilies to increase from year to year, as once planted -they should not be disturbed. If the Lily-bed is to be by itself an -angle of a building, or a portion of the grounds protected by trees, or -adjacent shrubbery, on the west and north, should be chosen. Such a -site, if well drained, will give good results. The bed should be dug -deep and mellow, and enriched with old, well-rotted manure. Strict -attention must be paid to this point—only old, well-decomposed manure -must be used. The bed should be sufficiently rounded to shed water. -Lilium candidum will be ready to ship in August, and should be planted -as soon as received. All Lilies are greatly injured by exposure to air, -and if it is necessary to keep them out of the ground for any length of -time they should be well wrapped in tissue-paper, or otherwise -protected. The Japanese protect their great auratum Lily bulbs from the -air by encasing them in a ball of clay before starting them on their -long journey to the far West. Candidum Lilies make a fall growth of -leaves, and must be planted early; no other Lily is as hardy and -satisfactory with us as this. They should be planted four inches deep -and a foot apart each way, that they may have room to increase, and left -undisturbed for years. The soil may be made very rich with manure, but -none of it should touch the Lily bulbs. Make a hole of sufficient depth -and size, put an inch or more of sand on the bottom, place the bulbs on -this and fill up with the sand, packing it closely all around the bulb. - -Of the Japanese Lilies, rubrum is most easily grown here and should be -planted eight to ten inches deep. Planted deep they are not injured by -thawing and freezing, but when too near the surface the frost often -throws the bulbs out of the ground. Lilies are not injured so much by -freezing as by sudden and frequent thawings. - -As long as the rubrum is doing well it should not be disturbed, but if -it suddenly fails to grow and bloom the bulbs should be taken up when -dormant, and cleansed. Remove all decayed scales and look for -worm-nests, which are usually the source of the trouble. Ants sometimes -make nests in the Lily bulb in the spring, and cause the top to decay. -When this occurs it should be lifted, cleaned, and reset in a place free -from ants. The greatest care must be exercised in cleaning bulbs not to -injure the sound scales, as that will only induce further decay. - -All the speciosum Lilies are exceedingly beautiful. L. Album is one of -the finest; its reflexed flowers are a clear, sparkling white with a -green band through the centre of each petal, and a peculiar glistening -appearance, as though covered with water. It is one of the most easily -grown of the speciosum family. S. Roseum is another handsome variety, -white flushed with rose, and with dull crimson spots on the white -ground; while S. rubrum has large reflexed petals of frosted white, -heavily bearded and spotted with rich crimson, with many glistening -points of white. Aside from the speciosum Lilies there are many other -fine Japanese Lilies, the auratums easily leading in size and beauty. -While Krameri is a tube-shaped Lily of a soft pink; longiflorum has -lovely trumpets of pure white; the wonderful Lilium giganteum, six to -ten feet high, sends up immense clusters of twelve to twenty creamy -white flowers, with purple throat. Washingtonianum is another tall -variety bearing large clusters of delicate white flowers spotted with -black, and the grand and rare Brownii shows a chocolate-purple outside -with a creamy interior. The list is long, but with a generous planting -of well-selected varieties a succession of bloom may be had from the -first blooming longiflorums and candidums in June until auratum and the -late speciosums cast their ivory petals in September. - -The general treatment of all is the same: deep planting, keeping the -manure from actual contact with the bulbs by packing in sand; -well-drained soil and the presence of fibrous-rooted or perennial plants -near enough to absorb the surplus water from the soil. During the hot -weather, give a heavy mulch of lawn clippings brought well up around the -stems, and water as needed. If planted deep they will hardly require -staking, as the stalks send out surface roots which not only afford -nourishment, but also act as a brace to the plant and hold it firmly in -its place. - -[Illustration: A PORTION OF THE GROUNDS PROTECTED BY SHRUBBERY IS THE -PLACE FOR THE LILY-BED] - -A heavy mulch of old manure and rough litter should be given in the -winter, and the bed protected with leaves and evergreen boughs, or -anything that will shed water. - -Spring-planted bulbs rarely do well. It is better to plant after severe -cold weather sets in than to wait until spring. As long as the ground -can be worked they may be planted safely, but they should be set eight -or ten inches deep. I have planted them late in December—when the ground -had to be broken with an axe—and have had excellent success. - -The planting of hardy Lilies should be done on a scale limited only by -one’s means and the ground at command. A few new and rare sorts should -be added every year. In this way a magnificent collection will, in time, -be acquired, as they increase very rapidly under favourable conditions, -and the larger the clumps of one kind the finer the effect, so that each -variety should be given abundant room to spread and develop. - -It is often stated that Lilies left to themselves place their bulbs near -the surface. Such bulbs are the small ones that form on the blossom -stalk above the main bulb, and lie near the surface from force of -circumstances. The main bulb sends its offshoots deep in the ground, as -in the case of our native Lilies, which are almost impossible to dig. -Especially is this the case with the native Flame Lily, the bulb of -which I have never been able to reach with a trowel. Travellers in Japan -report various native Lilies growing in forests among the interlacing -roots of the trees, quite out of the reach of any small tools. There the -auratum Lily grows on wooded hillsides where the drainage is perfect, -and the falling leaves give a deep mulch at all times, and supply the -best of nourishment, leaf-mould, and the roots of the trees absorb all -superfluous moisture. - - - - - Chapter _SEVENTEEN_ - Care of Cannas, Caladiums, Dahlias, and Other Bulbs during Winter - - - Fall Bulbs, Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocus, Scillas, and the Like - -The first hard frost in September—about the 20th inst. at the North—is -usually followed by a few weeks of mellow fall weather. If one has been -so fortunate as to have saved Cannas, Caladiums, and other tender -bulbous plants by night protection or by turning the hose on very early -in the morning before the sun reaches them, they will grow and ripen -well in these last warm days. These sudden falls of temperature usually -find the gardener unprepared, and unless water is at hand plants will be -cut down by frost. When this happens remove, with a sharp knife, the -frozen portions, and consign to the compost heap. If allowed to remain, -these not only give the yard a most untidy appearance, but the decay is -likely to extend to the bulbs. The plants may then be left to ripen in -the ground for several days, according to the weather, or the necessity -of preparing the ground for other plants. - -Dig all roots to be saved on a warm, sunny day, and dry in the sun for -several days if the weather is fair and warm. Cover with blankets at -night or leave them on the floor of a sunny room until the earth about -their roots is dry, pack in boxes of dry earth or sand, and store in a -dry, frost-proof cellar. - -Dahlias and the common tall Canna are easily wintered in a warm, dry -cellar. The large Orchid-flowered Cannas are much more difficult to -winter, and are very apt to dry-rot under the most favourable -circumstances. I have found laying on the ground (under the steam-pipes -where they are run outside the cellar) and covering with dry earth a -very good way of handling them. They should be examined occasionally, -and if they seem too dry sprinkle with water. If the Caladium bulbs show -any decay of the centre-shoot all the decayed parts should be pulled off -down to sound tissue. Parts of Cannas broken in digging should be -removed with a sharp knife. Where there is but a small quantity of -roots, shave off the dirt and wrap the tuber in tissue-paper. Store on a -shelf in a closet, or other convenient frost-proof place. There is no -more uncertain root to carry through the winter. Florists often lose -their entire stock by decay or dry-rot, and were it not for this the -Canna would soon become a drug on the market, and only novelties have a -sale. - -Dahlias are much more easily wintered, doing well in any cellar that -will keep potatoes in first-class condition. All roots wintered in -cellars should be placed on elevated shelves or tables away from the low -temperature of the floor—on a swinging shelf, if the cellar is -frequented by rats and mice. - -Gladioli will keep perfectly if stored in flour-sacks and hung from a -beam or post near the ceiling. Montbretias may be wintered in the same -way. - -When the Cannas, Caladiums, and other summer plants are out of the way -the beds may be prepared for the fall planting of bulbs for early spring -blooming. The vacant foliage-beds on the lawn offer the best place, as -the bulbs will have played their part and passed on by the time these -are needed again for the summer occupants. - -If the beds have been lowered owing to limited water-supply haul on a -few wheel-barrow loads of very old manure and earth, and mix thoroughly -with the soil, raising them sufficiently to shed water. If permanent -bulb beds are preferred (which may be planted with annuals in the -summer) choose an exposure slanting toward the south, if possible, as -this will insure earlier flowers. See that the soil has good natural -drainage, or, if this is lacking, supply it by excavating to a depth of -eighteen to thirty inches, and placing several inches of broken stone or -crockery in the bottom for drainage. Return the soil to the bed, making -it mellow and fine. The earlier the bulbs are planted the more roots -will be started before the ground freezes, but late fall or winter -planting, providing the ground is not frozen, is preferable to spring -planting. Spring-planted bulbs rarely amount to anything, having lost -much of their vitality by being so long out of the ground. - -A bed facing the south is warmer and earlier than any other, hence it is -sometimes liable to a set-back—if not actual injury—from a sudden sharp -frost after the plants have started in the spring, and the litter should -not be wholly removed until it is entirely safe to do so. An ideal bed -for early bulbs would be one on the south side of the house, sloping -slightly toward the south, with a frame around it somewhat higher at the -back, over which a canvas attached to hooks could be drawn on cold -nights and days. The frame should be made so that it could be readily -lifted on the approach of warm weather. - -Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi look far better when planted each in a -bed by themselves, as they are not at all in harmony. Plant Hyacinths -seven inches apart and four inches deep, either in beds of vivid colours -without other order than a regular distance apart, or according to some -colour arrangement or geometrical design. Tulips should be planted four -inches apart each way and four inches deep. A good arrangement is to -draw lines across the bed forming squares—four inches for Tulips, seven -for Hyacinths—and set a bulb at each corner. The centre of the square -may be filled with Crocus or Scillas, which will have finished blooming -before the larger flowers are out. Only Tulips of the same height and -season of bloom should be set together. - -Scillas and Crocus together make a bed that can hardly be surpassed in -bulb planting. The effect is best where only the white Crocus is blended -with the blue of the Scillas. - -Protect the bulb beds with rough manure, leaves, and evergreen boughs -during winter. Remove the protection gradually in the spring, and leave -the finest of the manure to enrich the soil. - -When through blooming in the spring, and the foliage has ripened, the -bulbs may be lifted, dried, and stored away in a cool place until fall. -All these bulbs increase rapidly, both by multiplying and by seed. -Neglected beds of Tulips seem to multiply and perpetuate themselves -indefinitely, but the new plants will be found to be all from seed, as -the Tulip forms its new bulbs at the base of the old, and if they were -not frequently taken up and reset they would grow so deep in the ground -that all the strength of the plant would be exhausted reaching the -surface, and there would be no bloom. The seedlings make robust plants, -and do not deteriorate materially. - -The seed formation of the Crocus is very interesting. If dug a few weeks -after its season of bloom is over, under the ground, below the blossom, -the stem will be found to have expanded into a long chamber or cell as -large around as a lead-pencil and an inch or more in length. Open this -and it will be found full of exquisite pink pearls; these are the seeds. -As they ripen they become nearly black, the cell bursts, and the earth -receives them. The Scilla lengthens its flower-stems until they lie on -the ground, forming large seed-pods filled with white pearls. When the -plants are taken up, if these little seeds are saved the stock will -increase much more rapidly. - -The beds are often wanted for other plants before the foliage has had -time to ripen. In that case the bulbs may be lifted and heeled-in, in -some out-of-the-way place, until ripe, care being taken to preserve the -seed-pods. Heeling-in means digging a shallow trench, laying in the -roots of the plants in a row, and covering them with earth. They must be -lifted when ripe and not allowed to grow. - -A pretty way to grow the Scilla, Crocus, and Snowdrop is to scatter them -on the lawn in the grass, planting singly or in clumps. Lift the sod -with the trowel and slip the bulbs under, right side up, leaving them to -care for themselves. Plant hundreds in this way; they will be through -blooming by the time the grass needs cutting. - -The various varieties of Narcissi should be planted in permanent beds or -borders, where they need not be disturbed except as it is necessary to -divide them. They should be set four inches deep and twelve inches apart -each way, that they may have room to increase. The new bulbs of Narcissi -form in a cluster around the old, and unless allowed to develop freely -will not bloom. If set the proper distance apart they will need to be -taken up but once in four years. Do not wait for them to show signs of a -crowded condition, but move on schedule time, and keep them blooming -continuously. All the Narcissi, except the Polyanthus, are hardy, and -all are lovely—especially the large trumpet sorts. Emperor and Empress, -Horsfieldi, and Sir Watkin are especially good in the open grounds. -Poeticus, P. ornatus, Alba plena, Odorata, and Von Sion all make -beautiful borders. - -There are a few other bulbs for fall planting that are hardy all over -the country. The Chionodoxa, Glory of the Snow, is a recent introduction -from Asia Minor. Like the Scilla it is blue, a rare and desirable colour -in spring flowers. Winter Aconite, with its tiny, golden-yellow flowers, -the first of the spring; Wood Hyacinths, Dog-tooth Violets, -Fritillarias, Crown Imperials, and Snowdrops are all worth a place. - -The bulbs advertised by the seedsmen as hardy in a temperature like that -of Philadelphia may not prove hardy in Canada, Michigan, Northern -Illinois, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Dakota, and this must be borne in mind -when purchasing same. The safest way, when in doubt, is to address a -letter of inquiry to the dealer offering the plants, in regard to -suitability for your particular climate. - -Bulbs for winter blooming. I have come to the conclusion that almost -anything will grow and blossom if given the proper care. For the -amateur, whose only field is the sitting-room window, it is better to -undertake only those varieties with which one may be sure of success -under ordinary care, as the Hyacinth, Narcissus, Scilla, Crocus, -Anemone, Ornithogalum arabicum, and Freesia. These are absolutely sure -bloomers, and much more reliable in the matter of producing flowers than -a Geranium. In selecting Hyacinths the single will generally give better -satisfaction than the double, and there should always be a generous -proportion of white among the colours selected. Alba superbissima, -Baroness Van Thuyl, and La Grandesse are among the best whites; Norma -gigantea, Roi des Belges for pinks and reds; Ida is the best yellow; and -Czar Peter and Grand Lilas the best blues. - -Among the Narcissi nothing finer than the large trumpet varieties could -be desired: Horsfieldi, with its yellow trumpet and snow-white perianth; -Sir Watkin, or the Giant Welshman, as it is sometimes called; Empress -and Emperor and the clustered Paper White are all exquisite; and the old -double Von Sion is most effective in the window-garden. - -[Illustration: TURN OUT BALL OF EARTH TO ASCERTAIN IF POT IS FILLED WITH -ROOTS] - -Hyacinths and Narcissi require the same treatment: Pot as early in the -fall as they can be obtained, using good compost and sufficient broken -charcoal to insure good drainage; fill to within an inch of the top with -the soil, using a four-inch pot for a single bulb or a six-inch one for -three bulbs. Place the bulb with the tip slightly above the surface of -the soil, label plainly with name and date of planting, and set away in -a dark box in the cellar for six weeks or more, or until the pot is well -filled with roots; this can be ascertained by turning the ball of earth -out of the pot. If the earth is not well covered with roots return to -the box for a few days longer. If there is sufficient root growth place -in a warm, sunny window in a temperature of about 70°. When first potted -they should be well watered, and thereafter kept merely moist, but on -bringing to the light and heat they should have water in the saucer most -of the time. When the flowers are fully expanded they may be moved into -a cooler, less sunny window, where they will remain in perfection much -longer. - -Anemones give beautiful winter blossoms and require practically the same -treatment as Hyacinths. The bulbs are placed an inch and a half below -the surface. They are queer, shrivelled-up little things, with roots -which fill up surprisingly after being in the damp soil. When up and -growing they require abundant water and sunshine. Keep the saucer full -of water all the time; failure in this respect means blasted buds. As -Anemones give a succession of flowers they must be left in the window -until through blooming. Tulips, Crocus, and Scillas should be potted and -placed out of doors where they will not be disturbed, covered with earth -and left until freezing weather, when they should be stored in the -cellar like other bulbs. It is well in placing bulbs out of doors to set -the pots in beds of coal-ashes to prevent the entrance of worms into the -soil. They may be covered with ashes instead of earth, the object being -to give them the benefit of the frost. - -A half dozen Scillas planted in the centre of one of the large round -gourds and surrounded with a border of white Crocus makes a very pretty -show, and will come into bloom in about three months from the time of -planting. The Ornithogalum is an effective flower, and quite sure to -bloom, but requires a rather high temperature, as it is of slow -development. - -Freesia bulbs deteriorate very rapidly once they are out of the ground, -and should be ordered early and potted as soon as received. Plant a -dozen in a five-or six-inch pot, and set at once in a warm east window, -as these do not need to go to the cellar. The leaves and stalks are very -tender, and will require support, and this is the greatest objection to -the Freesia. Ashes in the soil will counteract this tendency somewhat, -and the wire carnation supports are very neat and satisfactory. - -Alliums, which have the same defects, require the same treatment. - -The varieties of Oxalis are usually started in a sunny window, as they -require a strong light. Like the summer bloomers, they increase rapidly -and need considerable root room. The Bermuda Oxalis is lovely in a gourd -hanging-basket; indeed, a hanging-basket, or bracket, is the only -suitable arrangement for it, as it loves to droop and spread itself, and -requires abundant room for its wealth of golden flowers. When through -blooming it should be allowed to ripen its foliage. It may then be set -in the cellar, or a cool place, until September, when the bulbs should -be shaken out of the pot and repotted; one bulb to a four-inch pot. - -Bulbs of hardy plants may be ripened off, and in the spring planted out -in the open ground, where they will bloom the following spring, but are -valueless for forcing in the house. - - - - - Chapter _EIGHTEEN_ - Hardy Shrubs and Plants for Fall Planting - - -In some localities, especially in the South, the practice of setting out -hardy plants in the fall has much to commend it. The mild winters, -during which growth is never entirely checked, allow the plants to fully -establish themselves; but in the Northern States, where the severe -winters set in early and last long, the plants do not become -sufficiently established to stand the severe cold followed by the hot -summer. They sometimes live through the one only to succumb to the -other. - -Plants moved from one part of the grounds to another will frequently -winter-kill, while those left undisturbed will be found in excellent -condition in the spring. Again, a plant may come through the winter in -apparently good condition, but without sufficient vitality to withstand -any severe heat or drought, and failure to recognise this condition -results in loss. Plants transplanted in the fall, however hardy their -character, should receive particular care during the following summer in -the matter of water, cultivation, and mulching. Plants transplanted at -any time of year will do better if the top growth is reduced by trimming -or cutting back, and all broken or injured roots removed with a sharp -knife. - -Spring-planted shrubs rarely fail to do well if the precaution is -observed of moving them while dormant. The only exception I need to -mention being the various Irises when purchased from florists. These, -being dug in the fall, and kept in cold storage during winter, have -their vitality much depleted by spring, and are then of doubtful value. -This is especially true of the Japanese Iris; the German and English, -being much more hardy, are not so easily injured. Home-grown Iris would -better be moved in the spring. - -Among the desirable shrubs for fall or spring planting are the various -Spiræas; these are both shrubby and herbaceous. Of the shrubby variety -Anthony Waterer is the only really good crimson, or red, variety, and is -very fine. The catalogues give it a dwarf character rarely exceeding -eighteen inches, but my own experience with the plant is, that with rich -soil it much exceeds that height. Van Houttei is the finest white sort, -and is especially valuable grown singly on the lawn, where it may -develop its beautiful form to perfection. Of the herbaceous Spiræas the -filipendula is very desirable for the border or for edging shrubbery. -The fern-like foliage, which is of itself handsome enough to gain -recognition, is surmounted in June with spikes of double daisy-like -flowers of creamy white. It is very fine for cut flowers, and for -forcing in winter. The clumps increase rapidly, and should be divided -and reset every three or four years. Then there is the old-fashioned -garden Spiræa, with its pinky-white, feathery blossoms, very -fragrant—especially when wet with the dew. - -Hypericum Moserianum is a delightful little perennial, growing from one -to two feet tall; the flowers are exquisite in form and colour—a clear, -golden yellow lasting well when cut. Other hardy yellow flowers are the -California Sunflower and Rudbeckia, or Golden Glow, both too well known -and popular to need eulogy. - -The Lychnis (Rose Campion) is another of our herbaceous perennials which -has not attracted the notice its good qualities deserve. L. -Chalcedonica, its trusses of scarlet rivalling the most vivid Geranium, -is the best known of the species, and combines beautifully with Clematis -flammula and Spiræa filipendula. Planted against a wall covered with the -Clematis, or contrasted in the border with S. Japonica, it is very -effective. Plant L. semperflorens plenissima with Deutzia gracilis and -Spiræa filipendula. Planted together in the border they are exquisite. -L. semperflorens is much more delicate than the other Lychnis, and -cannot be considered entirely hardy at the North. It is a very dainty -little flower with soft pink, finely toothed blossoms, and worth -considerable trouble to grow. Viscaria (Ragged Robin) has tall spikes of -double red, deliciously scented flowers, and should find a place in -every garden. Chalcedonica resembles the scarlet variety except in -colour, which is pure white. It also is quite hardy and needs little -care when once established. - -Plant Iris (Fleur-de-lis) generously. They will grow in size and beauty -from year to year, and are valuable for borders along drives or walks, -for the filling of corners or low, damp spots. By planting the different -varieties a succession of bloom, from May until the latter part of July, -may be secured. The German Iris furnishes some magnificent colour -effects in purple and bronze, yellow and lavender, blue and white. The -Japanese are wonderful, both in colour and size—flowers seven inches in -diameter being quite common, while twelve inches is attained in some -instances. The flowers differ so materially in form from other Iris as -to appear a distinct class. Unlike the German Iris, they hold their -petals neither erect nor drooping, but horizontally, or flat, making a -great disc of lovely colour, ranging through all the shades of blue, -lilac, blue and white, and plum, to crimson-purple, magenta, and pink. -They are more tender and less quickly started than the German, but do -well when established. A low, damp spot suits them best, and where this -is not available they should be abundantly supplied with water. German -Iris will do well in any good garden soil and under ordinary -cultivation. Iris should be taken up and divided every three or four -years, removing all dead or exhausted growth, and setting one live toe, -or point, in a place. They will not do well the first year of dividing, -but the following year will be very fine, especially if there have been -enough roots to make several long, parallel rows. - -While not troubled with any disease or insect pest, the moles seem to -have an especial liking for the roots of the Japanese Iris, and have -caused me much loss. The only preventive is to shut the moles out of the -bed by sinking a close wire netting around it to a depth of eighteen -inches, or by making early and persistent use of good mole-traps—one at -each end of the row, or at the spots where they enter and leave the bed. -By this method I caught ten moles in as many days in the Iris beds, and -was comparatively free from them the remainder of the season. Salt pork -or bacon rinds buried in their runs will sometimes drive them away for a -time, but this is not to be depended on, neither is the presence of -Castor-oil plant, which, so far as I have observed, has not the -slightest value. The only method is to trap them early in the spring, -before they begin to breed; setting the trap in the runs from the nest -and not in the shallow feeding runs they make close to the surface. -These they may not visit again in days, if at all, but the main runs, -which usually extend in several directions from their burrows, and are -several inches below the surface, are traversed several times a day. - -[Illustration: A GOOD BACKGROUND FOR LOW SHRUBS] - -Peonies—what would the spring garden be without these old-time -favourites? Whatever flowers are lacking in country gardens, it is -rarely these; and yet, we seldom see them at their best. They like rich, -well-drained soil in a sunny location, and once established should -remain undisturbed for years, or until they become so crowded as to need -dividing, as they require several years to recover after being moved, -and only actual necessity should lead to their disturbance, certainly -not the requests of friends and neighbours to dig them up and divide. -Better buy a root to give away, if reluctant to refuse, than injure the -plant. - -Mulch the Peony bed heavily with rough manure in the fall, removing the -coarsest in the spring and working the rest into the soil. A good mulch -of lawn clippings during July and August will keep the soil cool and -moist, and greatly benefit the plants. This should be given before they -bloom, as there is usually heavy rain about that time, which beats the -flowers down into the dirt and ruins them. - -The Funkia (Plantain Lily), or Day Lily, as it is commonly called, is -another plant impatient of disturbance; and once planted it should not -be molested. It likes a good, rich, mellow soil, but is not particular -as to location, so that no other plant is near it. Though perfectly -hardy I prefer to give it a little protection in the winter. In the -spring cut away the sod from around it the width of the spade, making -the soil fine and mellow, and working in some old manure. This annual -enlarging of its boundaries is all the care it needs to make it grow -larger and finer, year by year, and bloom profusely. - -The French Lilacs are to be recommended for liberal planting, as they -are free from the vice of suckering which makes the old-fashioned sort -so troublesome. They should be planted wherever they will be useful as -backgrounds for lower shrubs, or perennials, or in a row along a lane or -fence. As the blooming season of the different varieties varies, by -judicious selection they may be had in bloom for several weeks. - -Althæas (Rose of Sharon) have the happy notion of blooming when other -plants do not, so they are doubly welcome. As they bloom from the bottom -up they should have a place by themselves on the grounds, where they -will make quite tall trees in a few years. The white and light-coloured -ones are the most attractive. Young trees should be wrapped in straw -during winter, and old ones well mulched with rough litter. - - - - - Chapter _NINETEEN_ - Winter protection - - -When the frost has cut down the flowers, and robbed the shrubs of their -leaves it is time for the fall cleaning of the garden. This should be -completed before the leaves begin to fall, as if left until then they -will greatly complicate matters. - -Pull up and consign to the compost heap all annuals, weeds, stalks of -perennials, Lilies, and ornamental plants, and the litter used for mulch -during summer. This last might be left on were it not for the fact that -it is likely to harbour insects which would do mischief. It is therefore -better to remove it and work the bed over, leaving all clean and neat. - -This is the time to look out for cutworms, chrysalids, and the like, and -destroy them. Much may be done in this direction. Look carefully along -the edging between the curbing and the grass where the cutworm lurks. -Look for the chrysalids of borers in the ground around the Clematis, -Cosmos, Hollyhocks, and Dahlia beds, and when found destroy them. On the -under side of boards, steps, and under the edge of the siding of the -house will be found the cocoons of the hickory tussock-moth and the -cabbage-worm, all of which should be destroyed. After removing the dead -annuals rake over the beds, leaving them clean and neat. - -Beds of perennials, Roses, bulbs, and especially of Lilies and Peonies, -must be well rounded up to shed water, as all plants are injured by -water standing about their roots. If not already high enough to admit of -this, more earth must be added to raise them sufficiently. The earth -from the window-boxes may be used to advantage, especially for the -Tea-rose bed, where a foot of mellow earth, brought well up around the -plants and rounded to shed water, will so protect them that, though the -tops may freeze, all below the soil will be likely to live. Over this -should be placed several inches of rough litter or leaves and a frame of -rough boards put around the beds and covered with sash, canvas, or -boards to shed rain. - -Young climbing Roses should have three or four inches of earth banked up -around them; wrap their tops with straw or sacking, or old carpet may be -drawn over them and tacked to the trellis or support on which they grow. -Plants under the eaves of the house, where the water drips, should have -boards arranged to catch and divert it to the lawn. - -Protect equally from the cold winds of winter and the sun; plants are -not injured so much by freezing as by thawing suddenly, as they must -when the sun shines directly upon them. If they thaw gradually, little -if any damage is done, but sudden thawing ruptures the plant-cells, -causing serious injury. To prevent this and the settling of water about -the roots are the points to keep in mind when giving winter protection. - -For plants whose tops die, leaves offer an excellent protection—better -than manure, in that they do not scatter seeds of weeds. For plants that -form a fall crown of leaves—as the Hollyhock or Annunciation Lily—a box -with an open end filled lightly with leaves is satisfactory. Close, -air-tight covers, as boxes, tin pails, iron kettles, and the like, -should never be used to protect plants of any kind. Wooden frames -covered with wire netting, and filled loosely with leaves, allowing the -moisture to evaporate rapidly, have given the best results; next come -frames covered with thin cotton cloth, then loose boxes with one end -knocked out. The idea is to retain the dry leaves around the plant, -protect from sun and cold wind, and allow the rapid evaporation of any -moisture that may collect. Wet or frozen leaves around a plant are worse -than no protection; especially is this true in the case of Myosotis, -Pansies, Carnations, Canterbury-bells, and Foxglove, all of which do -better in the cold-frames. Where these are not available, recourse may -be had to the boxes with netting, or to evergreen boughs. When filling -in about a plant with leaves do it lightly, as a mass closely packed -becomes damp and mouldy, and kills rather than protects. - -Plants too tall to be covered should be protected with straw or -corn-stalks; cover for some little distance beyond the roots with leaves -or litter, and place straw or corn fodder around them, bringing it to a -point at top, and tying firmly there and in the middle, sloping the -stalks sufficiently to shed rain. Tall Rosebushes, young Althæas, and -similar growths, are much benefited by this form of protection. Long -beds of plants—as Japanese Iris, Pansies, and the like—maybe protected -by taking narrow boards eighteen or twenty inches long, with a notch cut -in one end, the other end being pointed and driven into the ground; set -these at intervals through the centre of the beds; place the poles -lengthwise of the beds, their ends resting in the notches, and arrange -evergreen boughs across the poles on each side to shed rain. Corn fodder -may be used where the evergreens cannot be procured, or a row of pegs -may support two boards, forming a ∧-shaped roof, which will protect from -wind, sun, and water equally. Protect the Lily and Peony beds with a -foot of leaves and rough, old manure. Rhododendrons, at the North, must -have both roots and tops protected if there is to be any bloom the -following year. Muslin-covered frames and leaves will do this best. -Great care must be taken not to break off the buds, which are -exceedingly brittle. Frames with removable lids that will admit of -filling in gradually, and allow the leaves to settle before finishing, -are best. Pile leaves around the roots of Clematis, and stretch sacking -or other cloth over the trellises on which they grow. Protect in the -same way English Ivy and Ampelopsis Veitchi while young. A northwest -angle of a building affords very good protection. - - - - - Chapter _TWENTY_ - Care of House-plants In Winter - - -Plants for winter blooming should be brought into the house before the -nights get chilly. By becoming gradually accustomed to the air of the -house before the doors are closed and the fires started, they will be -less affected by the change. - -Do not crowd into the window more plants than it can conveniently hold. -Plants must have room to breathe and grow, and abundant light. No plant -should touch its neighbours. Even with this amount of room at the start -they will be badly crowded before spring, and it will probably be -necessary to remove some. - -Shelves, brackets, and stands should be in place before the plants are -brought in, as changing about and handling are bad for them. Plants with -tender foliage, as Cinerarias, Primulas, and the like, do best on a -window-bracket, and the capacity of the window is greatly increased by -the use of brackets. Plants with drooping leaves should have single -brackets, to avoid contact with other plants. The Bougainvillea, also, -does better on a bracket, being of a trailing habit. It is not, however, -a good winter bloomer, usually coming in late in March and continuing -until December, but it is very reliable during that time and requires -less care than any house-plant with which I am familiar, unless it be -the Araucaria. - -See that all shelves are securely fastened, and strong enough to sustain -the weight to be placed upon them. The additional protection of a small -brass chain fastening the outer edge of the shelf to the window-casing -above it will ease the strain on the brackets and give greater security. - -See that all hanging-baskets are securely hung with copper wire, and -that there is no danger of the hooks from which they are suspended -pulling out. - -Do not start in with a number of plants the requirements of which are -entirely unknown. Where conditions for their proper care are not -obtainable it will be wiser to content one’s self with familiar plants -offering a reasonable hope of success, as Geraniums, Hyacinths, or -Primroses. A healthy, vigorous plant, however common, is preferable to a -sickly one, be it ever so rare. - -A fair degree of atmospheric moisture should be maintained by keeping a -dish of water on stove, register, or radiator. Where bulbs are grown a -healthy degree of humidity is secured by evaporation and transpiration -as shown by moisture gathering on the glass when the temperature falls. -Moisture in the soil is a more difficult matter, and greater harm is -done through ignorance in this particular than in any other way. Either -plants are allowed to suffer for water, or they are drenched -indiscriminately. All are watered alike, irrespective of individual -need, whereas the requirements of each should be studied. A few plants, -natives of bogs—as the Calla—require constant moisture when growing. -Heliotrope, on the other hand, turns yellow when over-watered. Water -should be applied thoroughly when given and then withheld until the -plant is nearly dry again. This induces a stocky growth, with -well-ripened wood, capable of producing healthy bloom. To keep a plant -constantly wet may produce a quick growth, but it will be a soft one, -incapable of the best results. - -Flower-pots should not be filled to the brim with earth, but sufficient -space should be left to hold enough water to thoroughly saturate the -soil in each pot—a full inch or more in the case of six-inch pots, and -at least half an inch for small pots. The soil must be sufficiently open -to take the water quickly. Heliotrope, and some other plants, form a -thick network of roots, which the water cannot penetrate readily, and -channels should be opened through them with a pencil or stick. See that -the water really penetrates the soil instead of merely passing between -the ball of earth and the pot. Hanging-baskets of wire and moss are best -watered by setting in a large pail until thoroughly soaked. One such -watering will last a week, unless the room is very hot and dry. - -[Illustration: PLANTS FOR LATE WINTER BLOOMING SHOULD BE BROUGHT INTO -THE HOUSE BEFORE FALL] - -Give sun-loving plants all the sunshine possible. Geraniums especially -love to be close to the glass, and the difference is quickly seen in the -quality of the blossoms. Shower every day, if possible, especially such -plants as Heliotropes, Cinerarias, Cyclamen, Lantanas, and, if not once -a day, at least once a week. Dipping the entire plant in a tub of quite -warm water is a great benefit, as in that way every part of the plant is -reached. - -I do not especially approve of the advice so constantly given to “keep -an old fork handy to stir the soil, that the roots may have air.” The -leaves are the lungs of the plants, and if these are kept clean there -will be no trouble about their breathing. Moreover, if necessary to get -air to the roots, stirring the soil would be a very poor way to do it, -as cultivation of the surface is intended to keep air out and moisture -in. To this end we make a dry mulch over flower-beds and the farmer -cultivates his corn in a “dry spell,” knowing that the formation of a -dry crust will result in the rapid evaporation of the moisture in the -soil, the dry air shrinking the soil and opening up its pores, as it -were, letting the hot air in and the moisture out. This advantage the -practice has: it counteracts any tendency to sourness in the soil, and -should be resorted to whenever there is any suspicion of this, or when -the earth in which tender or succulent-stemmed plants are growing seems -hard and will not take water readily. The Amaryllis objects to this -disturbance, and hard-wooded plants, which require firm potting, should -not be disturbed by more than the merest scratching of the surface. - -Give support to such plants as need it, promptly; failure in this -respect may result in the loss of a cherished blossom, or the -disfigurement of a plant. - -Pinch back all weak and straggling growths, trimming the plants to grow -stocky and symmetrical. - -Avoid, as far as possible, a sudden change of temperature, as a sudden -chill will greatly injure some plants, though they may not be actually -frozen. Plants may be left in the window as long as the glass is not -frosted, but at the slightest appearance of frost they must be moved -back out of actual contact with the glass. The thermometer drops -suddenly at times, and plants that were considered quite safe at night -may be found frozen in the morning. When the thermometer in the window -indicates a safe temperature and that outside a stationary one, though -very low, the plants may be left where they are; but beware of falling -temperature, and protect with several thicknesses of newspaper between -the plants and the window, bringing it well out beyond the -window-frames. All cracks between the sash and casing should be -carefully sealed with strips of cloth or paper, the colour of the -woodwork, neatly pasted over, effectually shutting out draughts. This -alone will help immensely in protecting plants, and storm-windows are -safe and save much trouble. - -Fresh air, which plants must have, should be supplied through another -room, where it will be warmed before reaching them. A screen, so placed -as to cut off draughts when a door is opened to air the room, will be -found a great convenience. - -When plants are frozen they should be thawed very gradually. Darken the -room and keep the temperature low, raising it gradually. If, however, -the plants are in a living-room, where the temperature cannot -conveniently be kept low for any length of time, remove them to the -cellar until the frost is drawn out of them, when, if not too badly -damaged, they may be returned to the window and encouraged to grow. -Geraniums are rarely injured by one freezing, the loss of the leaves -being the chief damage, and if the plants are returned at once to the -window this may prove an advantage, as wherever a leaf falls a new shoot -will usually be forced, making the plant much more stocky and thrifty. -During an unusually severe storm, a Geranium left in the window of a -room away from direct heat was badly frosted. As it was not a very -choice variety no effort was made to save it. The room was closed, and a -temperature of 12° below zero reigned for several days. When the weather -moderated and the temperature rose to 32° the room was opened and -warmed, the Geranium remaining on its shelf. In a few days, seemingly, -the axil of every vanished leaf had bourgeoned into tender green, and in -a short time the Geranium was as thrifty as ever, blossoming better the -following summer than at any time before. Favourable growing conditions -should be given as soon after freezing as possible, that all the -vitality may be utilised and not wasted to sustain life in the -unfavourable conditions existing in cellars. - -Showering with, and dipping in, cold water slightly above freezing are -also good for frosted plants; 33° is about right, as a higher -temperature will be apt to precipitate the evil it is desired to -avoid—the rupture of the plant-cells. - -The freezing of the soil in pots, which often happens with bulbs or -plants kept quite wet, does no particular harm, and no attention need be -paid to it as long as the tops are not frozen. - -Remember that heat rises, and that the upper sash of a window is many -degrees warmer than the lower, so that by having an upper shelf you can -grow plants requiring a much higher temperature than those on the lower -shelf. For the same reason hanging-baskets require much more water than -plants on low shelves, and should be showered frequently to counteract -the dryer atmosphere. A rubber sprinkler is indispensable for this -purpose; by its use flowers may be sufficiently showered every day to -keep back red spiders and materially change the atmosphere. - -Compost, sand, old manure, and drainage material should be prepared in -the fall and put in a frost-proof place ready for any repotting that may -be necessary during the winter, and for the early sowing of seeds in the -house. - -In another chapter will be found formulas for the various insecticides -required for the extermination of the pests likely to attack plants in -the close, dry air of the living-room. If attention is paid to the -supply of fresh air and moisture little, if any, trouble will be -experienced on this score. - -Plants coming into bloom will require some fertiliser, and as there are -objections to the use of manure-water in the house the following formula -will be found very satisfactory: Get at the druggist’s one and a half -pounds (or ounces) nitrate of soda, one-half pound (or ounce) phosphate -of soda, and one pound (or ounce) sulphate of potash. Mix and pulverise -the material thoroughly. When required for use put a rounding -tablespoonful of this mixture in a gallon of hot water. To fertilise the -plants put a teacupful of the water, when cool, on a six-inch pot, and -more in proportion on larger pots. Do not use oftener than once in two -weeks, and do not let it touch the foliage. - -All the Asparagus group are benefited by the use of a good fertiliser, -especially is this the case with A. Sprengeri, which makes a root growth -so vigorous that it would be unmanageable were it not for the use of -fertilisers, which make it possible to keep it within reasonable bounds. - -Begonias, on the other hand, are usually injured by the use of -fertilisers. - - - - - Chapter _TWENTY-ONE_ - Common and English Names of Flowers - - -Where a plant has a double name—as Hypericum Moserianum—only the first -will be given, as it will be indexed in the catalogues that way. - - Abyssinian Banana, See _Musa_. - Adam’s Needle, See _Yucca_. - Alleghany Vine, See _Adlumia_. - Alum Root, See _Heuchera_. - American Cowslip, See _Dodecatheon_. - American Senna, See _Cassia_. - Amethyst, See _Browallia_. - Artillery Plant, See _Pilea_. - Aurora’s Bower, See _Gaillardia_. - Australian Glory Pea, See _Clianthus_. - Baby’s Breath, See _Gypsophila_. - Bachelor’s Button, See _Globe Amaranth_. - Balsam Apple, See _Momordica_. - Balsam Pear, See _Momordica_. - Banana Shrub, See _Magnolia_. - Barrenwort, See _Epimedium_. - Basket of Gold, See _Alyssum_. - Bath Flower, See _Trillium_. - Beard Tongue, See _Pentstemon_. - Bird’s Nest Fern, See _Aspidium Nidus-Avis_. - Bishop’s Weed, See _Ægopodium_. - Black-eyed Susan, See _Thunbergia_. - Bleeding Heart, See _Dicentra_. - Blood Flower, See _Hæmanthus_. - Bluebottle, See _Centaurea_. - Bluebottle, See _Grape Hyacinth_. - Blue Leadwort, See _Plumbago_. - Blue Lyme Grass, See _Elymus_. - Blue Salvia, See _S. patens_. - Blue Vetch, See _Grape Hyacinth_. - Bluet, See _Houstonia_. - Boston Ivy, See _Ampelopsis_. - Bowman’s Root, See _Gillenia_. - Bugle, See _Ajuga_. - Bugle Vine, See _Calampelis_. - Burning Bush, See _Euonymus_. - Butterfly Flower, See _Centrosema_. - Butterfly Flower, See _Schizanthus_. - Butterfly Orchid, See _Epidendrum_. - Butterfly Weed, See _Asclepias_. - Calico Bush, See _Kalmia_. - California Poppy, See _Eschscholtzia_. - Canterbury Bell, See _Campanula_. - Cape Hyacinth, See _H. candicans_. - Cardinal Flower, See _Lobelia_. - Castor Bean, See _Ricinus_. - Cheneil Plant, See _Acalypha_. - Chilian Glory Flower, See _Eccremocarpus_. - Chimney Bell Flower, See _Campanula_. - Chinese Bell Flower, See _Platycodon_. - Chinese Lantern Plant, See _Physalis_. - Chinese Matrimony Vine, See _Lycium_. - Chinese Paper Plant, See _Bougainvillea_. - Christmas Berry, See _Ardisia_. - Christmas Rose, See _Helleborus_. - Cinnamon Vine, See _Dioscorea_. - Cinquefoil, See _Potentilla_. - Climbing Fumitory, See _Adlumia_. - Climbing Hawthorn, See _Actinidia_. - Cock’s Comb, See _Celosia_. - Columbine, See _Aquilegia_. - Cone Flower, See _Rudbeckia_. - Coral Plant, See _Erythrina_. - Corn Flower, See _Centaurea_. - Cowslip, See _Primula_. - Crane’s Bill, See _Geranium_. - Creeping Mallow, See _Callirhoe_. - Crown Vetch, See _Coronilla_. - Cruel Plant, See _Physianthus_. - Cup-and-Saucer Plant, See _Campanula_. - Cup-and-Saucer Vine, See _Cobæa_. - Cup Flower, See _Nierembergia_. - Cushion Pink, See _Armeria_. - Dark Mullen, See _Verbascum_. - Day Lily, See _Hemerocallis_. - Devil-in-the-Bush, See _Nigella_. - Double Buttercup, See _Ranunculus_. - Dropwort, See _Spiræa_. - Duck Plant, See _Aristolochia_. - Dutchman’s Breeches, See _Dielytra_. - Dutchman’s Pipe, See _Aristolochia_. - Dusty Miller, See _Centaurea_. - Dusty Miller, See _Cineraria_. - Edelweiss, See _Gnaphalium_. - Emerald Feather, See _Asparagus_. - English Daisy, See _Bellis_. - Evening Glory, See _Ipomœa_. - Evening Primrose, See _Œnothera_. - Everlasting, See _Acroclinium_. - Everlasting, See _Ammobium_. - Everlasting, See _Globe Amaranth_. - Everlasting, See _Helichrysum_. - Everlasting, See _Lathyrus_. - Everlasting, See _Rhodanthe_. - Everlasting, See _Xeranthemum_. - Fair Maids of France, See _Ranunculus_. - False Chamomile, See _Boltonia_. - False Dragon Head, See _Physostegia_. - False Indigo, See _Baptisia_. - Feverfew, See _Matricaria_. - Fire on the Mountain, See _Euphorbia_. - Flame Flower, See _Tritoma_. - Fleur de Lis, See _Iris_. - Flora’s Paint Brush, See _Cacalia_. - Florida Rattle Box, See _Crotolaria_. - Floss Flower, See _Ageratum_. - Flowering Currant, See _Ribes_. - Flowering Dogwood, See _Cornus_. - Flowering Maple, See _Abutilon_. - Flowering Sage, See _Salvia_. - Flowering Spurge, See _Euphorbia_. - Forget-me-not, See _Myosotis_. - Fountain Plant, See _Acalypha_. - Four-o’clock, See _Marvel of Peru_. - Fringe Flower, See _Schizanthus_. - Garden Flower, See _Schizanthus_. - Gardener’s Garter, See _Phalaris_. - Garland Flower, See _Daphne_. - Gas Plant, See _Dictamnus_. - Gay Feather, See _Liatris_. - Gilliflower, See _Cheiranthus_. - Globe Flower, See _Trollius_. - Glory Pea of Australia, See _Clianthus_. - Goat’s Beard, See _Spiræa_. - Gold Lack, See _Wall Flower_. - Golden Bush Pea, See _Crotolaria_. - Golden Feather, See _Pyrethrum_. - Golden Honey Bell, See _Mahernia_. - Golden-leaved Elder, See _Sambucus_. - Golden Rod, See _Solidago_. - Golden Tuft, See _Alyssum_. - Great Reed, See _Arundo Donax_. - Great Sea Lavender, See _Limonium_. - Groundsel, See _Glechoma_. - Hawk’s Beard, See _Crepis_. - Holly Fern, See _Cyrtomium_. - Honey Bell, See _Mahernia_. - Horn of Plenty, See _Datura_. - Horned Poppy, See _Glaucium_. - Horse Mint, See _Monarda_. - House Leek, See _Sempervivum_. - Humble Plant, See _Mimosa_. - Hyacinth Clematis, See _Clematis Davidiana_. - Jacobean Lily, See _Amaryllis_. - Jacob’s Ladder, See _Polemonium_. - Japan Quince, See _Pyrus_. - Japanese Bell Flower, See _Platycodon_. - Japanese Beni, See _Caryopteris_. - Japanese Hop, See _Humulus_. - Japanese Ivy, See _Ampelopsis_. - Japanese Primrose, See _Cortusoidea_. - Japanese Primrose, See _Primula_. - Japanese Virgin’s Bower, See _Clematis_. - Japanese Winter Cherry, See _Physalis_. - Jerusalem Cherry, See _Solanum_. - Jerusalem Cross, See _Lychnis_. - Kenilworth Ivy, See _Linaria_. - Lady Washington, See _Pelargonium_. - Larkspur, See _Delphinium_. - Lavender Cotton, See _Santolina_. - Lawn Pearlwort, See _Spergula_. - Lemon Verbena, See _Verbena_. - Leopard Plant, See _Farfugium_. - Lilac, See _Syringa_. - Lily of the Palace, See _Agapanthus_. - Lily of the Palace, See _Amaryllis_. - Little Bo-Peep, See _Antirrhinum_. - Liverwort, See _Hepatica_. - London Tufts, See _Sweet William_. - Look at Me, See _Centrosema_. - Love Grove, See _Nemophila_. - Love in a Mist, See _Nigella_. - Love Lies Bleeding, See _Amaranthus_. - Lungwort, See _Martensia_. - Madagascar Periwinkle, See _Vinca_. - Maidenhair Fern, See _Adiantum_. - Mallow, See _Hibiscus_. - Maltese Cross, See _Lychnis_. - Mariposa Lily, See _Calochortus_. - Marsh Mallow, See _Hibiscus_. - Meadow Beauty, See _Rhexia_. - Meadow Sage, See _Salvia_. - Meadow Star, See _Spiræa_. - Mexican Fire Plant, See _Euphorbia_. - Mexican Lily, See _Amaryllis_. - Michaelmas Daisies, See _Aster_. - Monkey Flower, See _Mimulus_. - Monkshood, See _Aconitum_. - Moon Flower, See _Ipomœa_. - Moonpenny Daisy, See _Chrysanthemum_. - Moonwort, See _Honesty_. - Morning Glory, See _Ipomœa_. - Mosses, See _Selaginellas_. - Moss Pink, See _Phlox_. - Moss Verbena, See _Verbena_. - Mother of Thousands, See _Saxifrage_. - Mountain Fleece, See _Polygonum_. - Mountain Fringe, See _Adlumia_. - Mountain Laurel, See _Kalmia_. - Mourning Bride, See _Scabiosa_. - Mouse-ear Chickweed, See _Cerastium_. - Moustache Plant, See _Caryopteris_. - Musk Plant, See _Mimulus_. - Old Maid, See _Vinca_. - Old Man, See _Artemesia_. - Old Woman, See _Artemesia_. - Orchid Vine, See _Stigmaphyllon_. - Oriental Poppy, See _Papaver_. - Oswego Tea, See _Monarda_. - Painted Daisy, See _Chrysanthemum_. - Painted Leaf, See _Euphorbia_. - Painted Tongue, See _Salpiglossis_. - Pampas Grass, See _Gynerium_. - Pancratium, See _Ismene (in part)_. - Paris Daisy, See _Chrysanthemum_. - Passion Flower, See _Passiflora_. - Peacock Flower, See _Tigridia_. - Pearl Bush, See _Exochorda_. - Peppermint, See _Mentha_. - Periwinkle, See _Vinca_. - Persian Daisy, See _Pyrethrum_. - Pheasant’s Eye, See _Adonis_. - Pincushion Flower, See _Scabiosa_. - Pinks, See _Dianthus_. - Plantain Lily, See _Funkia_. - Plume Poppy, See _Bocconia_. - Pot of Gold, See _Calendula_. - Purple Bells, See _Rhodochiton_. - Purple Fountain, See _Pennisetum_. - Purple Grass, See _Pennisetum_. - Purple-leaved Plum, See _Prunus_. - Queen Lily, See _Amaryllis_. - Ragged Robin, See _Lychnis_. - Ragged Sailor, See _Centaurea_. - Red-hot Poker, See _Tritoma_. - Rock Cress, See _Arabis_. - Rock Madwort, See _Alyssum_. - Rose Campion, See _Lychnis_. - Rose of Heaven, See _Agrostemma_. - Rubber Plant, See _Ficus_. - Sage Palm, See _Cycas_. - St. John’s Wort, See _Hypericum_. - St. Bernard’s Lily, See _Liliago_. - Sand Root, See _Arenaria_. - Sand Verbena, See _Verbena_. - Scarbrough Lily, See _Valletta_. - Scarlet Flax, See _Linum_. - Scarlet-fruited Gourd, See _Bryonopsis, or Gourds_. - Scarlet Sage, See _Salvia_. - Sea Holly, See _Armeria_. - Sea Pink, See _Armeria_. - Seal Flower, See _Dielytra_. - Segar Plant, See _Cuphea_. - Sensitive Plant, See _Mimosa_. - Shaking Fern, See _Pteris_. - Shell Flower, See _Tigridia_. - Shooting Star, See _Dodecatheon_. - Shrubby Honeysuckle, See _Lonicera_. - Silk Oak, See _Grevillea_. - Silver Bells, See _Halesia_. - Slipper Flower, See _Calceolaria_. - Smoke Tree, See _Rhus_. - Snapdragon, See _Antirrhinum_. - Sneezewort, See _Helenium_. - Snowball, See _Viburnum_. - Snowberry, See _Symphoricarpos_. - Snow in Summer, See _Cerastium_. - Snow on the Mountain, See _Euphorbia_. - Southern Wood, See _Abrotanum_. - Speedwell, See _Veronica_. - Spider Plant, See _Cleome_. - Spike Grass, See _Uniola_. - Spring Beauty, See _Claytonia_. - Starworts, See _Asters_. - Stone Crop, See _Sedum_. - Straw Flower, See _Helichrysum_. - Sulphur Fern, See _Gymnogramma_. - Sunflower, See _Helianthus_. - Sun Plant, See _Portulaca_. - Swan River Daisy, See _Brachycome_. - Swan River Everlasting, See _Rhodanthe_. - Sweet Olive, See _Olea_. - Sweet Sultan, See _Centaurea_. - Tassel Flower, See _Cacalia_. - Thrift, See _Armeria_. - Toad Flax, See _Linaria_. - Toad Lily, See _Castalia_. - Tobacco Plant, See _Nicotiana_. - Torch Lily, See _Tritoma_. - Tree Celandine, See _Bocconia_. - Trumpet Flower, See _Datura_. - Trumpet Vine, See _Bignonia_. - Umbrella Plant, See _Cyperus_. - Variegated Comfrey, See _Symphytum_. - Venus’ Looking-Glass, See _Campanula_. - Virgin’s Bower, See _Clematis_. - Wake Robin, See _Trillium_. - Waxhaw, See _Euonymus_. - Wax Plant, See _Hoya_. - Wax Plant, See _Mesembryanthemum_. - White Fringe, See _Chionanthus_. - Whitlow Grass, See _Draba_. - Wild Cucumber, See _Echinocystis_. - Wind Flower, See _Anemone_. - Winged Everlasting, See _Ammobium_. - Wolf’s-bane, See _Aconitum_. - Wood Lily, See _Trillium_. - Woodruff, See _Asperula_. - Yellow Flax, See _Linum_. - Youth and Old Age, See _Zinnia_. - Zanzibar Balsam, See _Impatiens_. - Zebra Grass, See _Eulalia_. - - - Time For Germination of Seeds - - - _From Three to Five Days_ - - Ageratum, - Ammobium, - Aster, - Celosia, - Centaurea, - Chrysanthemums, - Cypress Vine, - Gilla, - Hollyhock, - Lavatera, - Layia Elegans, - Leptosyne Maritima, - Marigold, - Mimulus, - Mina lobata, - Salvia, - Sedum, - Silene Shasta, - Spherogyne, - Stevia, - Stock—ten week, - Sweet William, - Tradescantia, - Trifolium, - Tunica, - Verbascum, - Veronica, - Virginian Stock, - Viscaria, - Vittadinia, - Whitlavia, - Zinnia. - - - _In Five to Seven Days._ - - Acacia, - Amaranthus, - Arabis Alpina, - Beta, - Brompton Stock, - Bromus, - Browallia, - Candytuft, - Cannabis, - Carnations, - Centaurea, - Chelone, - Chrysanthemum Indicum, - Cineraria, - Clitoria, - Coleus, - Coreopsis Lanceolata, - Crucianella, - Cuphea, - Cynoglossum, - Dahlia, - Daisy, - Eschscholtzia, - Eupatorium, - Gaillardia, - Geranium, - Gypsophila, - Hablitzia, - Helenium, - Helianthus, - Helichrysum, - Hibiscus, - Iberis Gibraltarica, - Linaria Reticulata, - Lobelia, - Lupinus, - Lychnis, - Malva Moschata, - Mathiola, - Mesembryanthemum, - Mignonette, - Morning Glory, - Nicotiana, - Picotee, - Pink, - Salpiglossis, - - - _In Eight to Ten Days_ - - Abutilon, - Achimenes, - Agrostemma, - Antirrhinum, - Armeria, - Balsams, - Begonia, - Calceolaria, - Campanula, Annual, - Canna, - Capsicum, - Commelina Cœlestis, - Deutzia, - Digitalis, - Dracocephalum, - Erianthus, - Gaura, - Gloxinia, - Gnaphalium, - Hibiscus Syriacus, - Humulus Japonica, - Kaulfussia, - Lychnis, - Morina, - Pansy, - Pansy, Viola, - Papaver, - Pentstemon, - Petunia, - Phacelia, - Phlox Drummondi, - Poinsettia, - Potentilla, - Pyrethrum, - Rudbeckia, - Thunbergia, - Tropæolum, - Valeriana, - Verbena, - Zea. - - - _In Ten to Twelve Days_ - - Achillea, - Alonsoa, - Alyssum Saxatile, - Anchusa, - Aquilegia, - Argemone, - Artemisia, - Asphodelus, - Aubrietia, - Bidens, - Calandrinia, - Calonyction, - Campanula, - Feverfew, - Galtonia, - Geum, - Gypsophila, - Helianthemum, - Linaria, - Ipomopsis, - Scutellaria, - Silphium, - Spiræa. - - - _In Twelve to Fifteen Days_ - - Anemone Sylvestris, - Antigonon, - Asters, Per., - Callirhoe, - Campanula Tenorei, - Datura, - Didiscus, - Gazanopsis, - Gourds, - Hunnemannia, - Lantana, - Mandevillea, - Maurandya, - Myosotis, - Nicotiana, - Nierembergia, - Peas, - Perilla, - Petunia, Double, - Platycodon, - Polemonium, - Ranunculus, - Ricinus, - Thalictrum, - Torenia, - Verbena Venosa. - - - _In Fifteen to Twenty Days_ - - Acanthus, - Agapanthus, - Anemone, - Antigonon, - Armeria Maritima, - Calla, - Cobæa, - Cuphea, - Dictamnus, - Geranium Sanguineum, - Heliotrope, - Hemerocallis, - Impatiens Sultana, - Iris, - Liatris Spicata, - Primula Sinensis, - Rivina Humilis, - Smilax, Boston, - Solanum Robustum. - - - _In Twenty to Thirty-five Days_ - - Adlumia, - Baptisia Australis, - Berberis Vulgaris, - Campanula Fragilis, - Campanula Leutweiana, - Campanula Macrantha, - Campanula Nobilis, - Clematis Diversifolia, - Clematis Integrifolia, - Clianthus Dampieri, - Delphinium Nudicaule, - Funkia, - Gentiana Acaulis, - Hibiscus Speciosa, - Humea Elegans, - Musa Ensete, - Phlox, Perennial, - Phormium, - Physianthus, - Tritoma Uvaria, - Yucca. - - - _One Year or More_ - - Adlumia, - Ampelopsis, - Anthericum, - Clematis, in variety, - Dictamnus, - Fuchsia, - Geranium Sanguineum, - Iris, - Lilies, - Lupinus Polyphyllus, - Musa, - Tradescantia, - Viola Odorata. - -In the foregoing tables it will be observed that a flower occasionally -appears in two or more sections. When this occurs, the first date -indicates the time in which strong and fresh seed should germinate in -flats in the house, or in hotbeds; the latter indicates the time for old -seed, under less favourable conditions, and marks the limit of time in -which plants may be expected. - - - - - Chapter _TWENTY-TWO_ - Blooming Season of Various Trees, Shrubs, and Plants - - - T.—Tree. S.—Shrub. V.—Vine. H. P.—Hardy Perennial. A.—Annual. H. H. - P.—Hardy Herbaceous Perennial. E.—Evergreen. - - April - - _Akebia Quinata_ H. P. V. - _Alyssum Argenteum_ H. P. - _Anemone Blanda_ H. P. - _Bellis Perennis_ H. P. E. - _Dicentra—Bleeding Heart_ H. H. P. - _Dicentra—Dutchman’s Breeches_ H. P. - _Dodecatheon_ H. P. - _Forsythia—Golden Bells_ H. S. - _Sanguinaria—Blood Root_ H. H. P. - _Saxifrage_ H. P. - _Uvularia—Bellwort_ H. P. - _Vinca, Periwinkle, Myrtle_ H. P. E. - _Violets, in var_ H. P. E. - - - May - - _Adonis_ H. P. - _Ajuga_ H. H. P. - _Alyssum Argenteum_ H. H. P. - _Alyssum Saxatile_ H. H. P. - _Amsonia_ H. H. P. - _Aquilegia Argenteum_ H. H. P. - _Arum—Cuckoo Flower_ H. H. P. - _Aubretia_ H. H. P. - _Azalea_ S. - _Barberry_ S. - _Bellis—English Daisy_ H. P. E. - _Callicarpa Japonica_ H. P. - _Calycanthus—Sweet Shrub_ H. P. S. - _Chionanthus—White Wings_ H. P. S. - _Convallaria—Lily of the Valley_ H. H. P. - _Daphne_ H. S. E. - _Deutzia_ H. P. S. - _Dicentra_ H. H. P. - _Doronicum_ H. H. P. - _Double-flowered Almond_ H. S. - _Double-flowered Crab_ H. S. - _Double-flowered Peach_ H. S. - _Epimedium_ H. H. P. - _Euonymus—Burning Bush_ H. S. - _Exochorda—Pearl Bush_ H. S. - _Genista_ H. H. P. - _Halesia—Snowdrop_ H. T. - _Hawthorn_ H. T. - _Honeysuckle—Bush_ H. S. - _Iris Aurea_ H. H. P. - _Iris Siberica_ H. H. P. - _Lychnis—Red Campion_ H. H. P. - _Ornithogalum—Bulbous_ H. H. P. - _Phlox Subulata_ H. P. - _Polemonium—Greek Valerian_ H. P. - _Polyanthus_ H. P. E. - _Potentilla, June to August_ H. P. - _Primula—English Primrose_ H. P. E. - _Pulmonaria—Lungwort_ H. H. P. - _Pyrus—(Cydonia) Japonica_ H. P. S. - _Ranunculus Half_ H. P. - _Rhododendrons_ H. S. E. - _Ribes—Flowering Currant_ H. S. - _Sanguinaria—Blood Root_ H. H. P. - _Spiræa Filipendula_ H. H. P. - _Spiræa Thunbergi_ H. S. - _Spiræa Van Houttei_ H. S. - _Syringa—Lilac_ H. T. - _Tamarix_ H. S. - _Trillium_ H. H. P. - _Veronica_ H. P. - _Viburnum—Snowball_ H. S. - _Vinca—Myrtle_ H. P. E. - _Weigela_ H. S. - - - June - - _Aconitum—Monkshood_ H. H. P. - _Alstromeria—Peruvian Lily_ H. H. P. - _Anchusa_ H. H. P. - _Anthemis_ H. H. P. - _Anthericum—St. Bruno’s Lily_ H. H. P. - _Aquilegia_ H. H. P. - _Armeria_ H. P. - _Arum_ H. P. - _Astragalus—Milk Vetch_ H. H. P. - _Baptisia_ H. P. - _Bellis_ H. P. E. - _Buphthalmum_ H. P. - _Callirhoe_ H. P. - _Campanula_ H. P. E. - _Cassia_ H. P. - _Catalpa_ H. T. - _Centaurea_ H. P. - _Centranthus_ H. P. - _Coreopsis_ H. P. - _Cornus—Dogwood_ H. T. - _Coronilla_ H. P. - _Delphinium_ H. H. P. - _Deutzia Gracilis_ H. S. - _Deutzia—Pride of Rochester_ H. S. - _Digitalis_ H. P. E. - _Doronicum_ H. P. - _Dracocephalum_ H. P. - _Erigeron_ H. P. - _Heuchera_ H. H. P. - _Hollyhock_ H. H. P. E. - _Honeysuckle_ H. V. - _Hydrangea—Climbing_ H. P. V. - _Iris_ H. H. P. - _Jasminum_ H. P. - _Laburnum_ H. T. - _Lathyrus—Everlasting Pea_ H. H. P. - _Lilium Canadense_ H. H. P. (bulb) - _Lilium Candidum_ H. H. P. E. (bulb) - _Lilium Longiflorum_ H. H. P. (bulb) - _Linden_ H. T. - _Locust_ H. T. - _Lychnis Chalcedonica_ H. H. P. - _Lychnis Coronaria_ H. H. P. - _Lychnis Gigantea_ H. H. P. - _Magnolia_ H. T. - _Monarda_ H. P. - _Mountain Ash_ H. T. - _Papaver—Poppy_ H. H. P. & A. - _Pentstemon Half_ H. P. - _Philadelphus_ H. T. - _Potentilla_ H. P. - _Pyrethrum_ H. H. T. - _Ranunculus_ H. P. - _Rhododendron_ H. P. E. - _Rose_ Hardy S. - _Salpiglossis_ A. - _Schizanthus_ A. - _Sedum_ H. P. - _Spiræa, in var_ H. P. - _Sweet Alyssum_ A. - _Sweet Peas_ A. - _Sweet Scabiosa_ H. P. - _Sweet Sultan_ A. - _Veronica_ T. P. - _Vinca_ E. V. - _Violets_ H. P. E. - - - July - - _Achillea_ H. H. P. - _Allium Angularis_ H. P. - _Anthemis_ H. P. - _Armeria_ H. P. - _Asphodel_ H. P. - _Aster Alpinus_ H. P. - _Bignonia Radicans_ H. P. V. - _Bocconia_ H. P. - _Campanula_ H. P. E. - _Candytuft_ A. - _Chrysanthemum Maximum_ H. P. - _Cobæa Scandens_ Tender P. V. - _Coreopsis_ H. P. - _Cosmos_ A. - _Dahlia_ Tender P. - _Datura_ A. - _Dictamnus_ H. P. - _Digitalis_ H. P. E. - _Dracocephalum_ H. P. - _Eccremocarpus_ V. A. - _Euphorbia_ A. - _Evening Primrose_ H. P. - _Funkia_ P. - _Gypsophila_ A. - _Iris—Japanese_ H. P. - _Liatris_ H. P. - _Lilium Auratum_ H. P. - _Linum_ H. P. - _Lychnis_ H. H. P. - _Perennial Phlox_ H. H. P. - _Phlox Drummondi_ A. - _Potentilla_ H. P. - _Salvia_ Tender P. - _Statice_ H. P. - _Thalictrum_ H. P. - _Thymus_ H. P. - _Vinca_ Tender P. - _Yucca_ H. P. E. - - - August - - _Achillea_ H. H. P. - _Allium_ H. P. - _Armeria_ H. H. P. - _Asphodel_ H. H. P. - _Bellis_ H. P. E. - _Callirhoe_ H. P. - _Campanula_ H. P. E. - _Carnation_ T. P. - _Centranthus_ H. P. - _Clerodendron_ H. P. - _Cobæa_ V. A. - _Cosmos_ A. - _Delphinium_ H. P. - _Dianthus_ H. H. P. - _Digitalis_ H. P. E. - _Dolichos_ V. A. - _Eupatorium_ H. P. - _Euphorbia_ A. - _Funkia_ H. H. P. - _Helianthus_ H. P. - _Hibiscus_ H. H. P. - _Hollyhock_ H. S. - _Hydrangea, late in August_ H. P. S. - _Hypericum Moserianum_ H. S. - _Liatris_ H. P. - _Lilium Album_ H. H. P. - _Lilium Auratum_ H. H. P. - _Lilium Melpomene_ H. H. P. - _Lilium Roseum_ H. H. P. - _Lilium Rubrum_ H. H. P. - _Lobelia Cardinalis_ H. H. P. E. - _Lychnis_ H. H. P. - _Monarda_ H. P. - _Œnothera_ H. P. - _Pentstemon_ H. P. - _Phlox, Perennial_ H. H. P. - _Platycodon_ H. H. P. - _Rudbeckia_ H. H. P. - _Salvia_ Tender P. - _Sedum_ H. P. - _Silphium_ H. P. - _Statice_ H. P. - _Vinca_ Tender P. - - - September - - _Althea_ H. P. T. - _Anchusa_ H. P. - _Anemone—Queen Charlotte_ H. H. P. - _Anemone—Whirlwind_ H. H. P. - _Asters, in var_ A. & H. H. P. - _Boltonia_ H. P. - _Clematis Paniculata_ H. P. V. - _Erianthus_ H. P. - _Eulalia_ H. P. - _Eupatorium_ A. H. P. - _Euphorbia_ A. - _Gladiolus_ Bulbs - _Golden Rod_ H. H. P. - _Hibiscus_ H. P. & T. P. - _Hydrangea_ H. P. - _Ipomœa_ A. - _Lobelia Cardinalis_ H. H. P. E. - _Pampas Grass Half_ H. P. - _Rudbeckia_ H. P. - _Salvia_ T. P. - _Statice_ H. P. - _Tritoma_ Tender P. - _Vinca_ Tender P. - - - All Summer - - _Ageratum_ A. - _Antirrhinum_ T. P. - _Armeria_ A. - _Balsam_ A. - _Bartonia_ P. - _Begonia, Tuberous_ T. P. - _Begonia, Vernon_ T. P. - _Brachycome_ P. - _Browallia_ T. A. - _Canary Bird Vine_ A. - _Candytuft_ A. - _Canna_ Tender P. Rhizomes - _Celosia_ A. - _Centrosema_ H. P. - _Clarkia_ A. - _Cleome Pungens_ A. - _Cobæa Scandens_ A. - _Collinsia_ A. - _Cosmos_ A. - _Crotolaria_ A. - _Cypress Vine_ A. - _Delphinium_ H. P. - _Gloxinia_ T. P. - _Hyacinthus Candicans_ H. P. - _Ipomœa_ A. - _Maurandya_ P. - _Nasturtium_ A. - _Pansy_ P. - _Petunia_ A. - _Portulaca_ A. - _Rose_ Hardy or Half Hardy S. - _Sweet Pea_ A. - _Sweet Scabiosa_ A. - _Sweet Sultan_ H. P. - _Thunbergia_ T. P. - _Verbena_ T. P. - _Veronica_ H. P. - _Vinca_ T. P. - _Vincetoxicum_ H. P. - - - - - Chapter _TWENTY-THREE_ - A Chapter of Odds and Ends - - -Tools: There is always a tendency among beginners to overload with the -paraphernalia of their calling, whatever it may be. When the first -enthusiasm passes, and one becomes a careful and successful worker, all -that is superfluous is gradually dropped, and one realises that it is -brains and not tools that make the successful gardener. A hotbed, a -cold-frame or two, a work-table in some convenient place, a trowel, -wheel-barrow, spade, pitchfork, rake, hoe, a few yards of stout cord, a -hatchet to sharpen stakes, a watering-pot, rubber sprinkler, rubber -gloves, a good supply of pots and wire-netting, and a couple of good -mole-traps cover the real necessaries. Incidentals, such as wire-sieves, -lath-screens, trellises, and the like, may be made as they are required. - -One should not have more tools than can be kept in good working order. - -An excellent place for Begonias, Gloxinias, and other shade-loving -plants is made by fitting a wide shelf under a north or east window on -the outside, with a raised edge three or four inches high, made by -tacking strips of wood across the front and ends. Inclose with -window-netting, first nailing strips of wood from the outer corners of -the shelf to the upper corners of the window-casing to support the -netting. When the shelf is filled with wet sand, and the plants plunged -in it, one has a miniature greenhouse accessible from the room, and safe -from trespass of chickens, cats, or careless feet. The shelf may extend -considerably beyond the window-casing if desired, and be made attractive -from the outside by climbing vines. The Maurandya is fine here, as it -will push its tips through the netting, and be very ornamental; the -Asparagus tenuissimus and A. plumosus nanus are also good. A couple of -plant-brackets fastened to the outside casing will afford room for -drooping plants, and add to the attractiveness of the shelf. Primroses -will bloom here all summer, and Ferns, Gloxinias, and fancy-leaved -Caladiums find a congenial home. - - - Insecticides - -A good supply of insecticides should be kept in store, or at least the -formulas and materials for preparing them. Plant enemies have increased -to such an alarming extent in the past few years that comparatively few -flowers are free from them, and some kinds, as the Rose, Dahlia, Aster, -Clematis, and Cosmos, are becoming more and more difficult to raise. The -Rose, especially, is in need of constant care and watchfulness from the -swelling of the leaf-bud until the end of the growing season. One of its -most dreaded fungous diseases is known as “black spot,” which must be -given thorough treatment in the beginning, before the leaves start in -the spring on plants that have been previously affected. Syringe with -Bordeaux mixture and repeat once or twice a week during the growing -season. - -Cosmos Borer is very destructive to the Cosmos, Dahlia, Asters, and -Clematis; the preventive is a teaspoonful of Paris green to three -gallons of water, poured around the base of the plant, using sufficient -to wet the ground three or four inches deep. Begin when the plant is a -foot high, and continue until fully grown. - -The Black Beetle is an unpleasant pest that has become very destructive -to the Asters, eating the flowers, and soon destroying an entire bed if -not promptly checked. It resembles the common blister beetle, but is -smaller and jet black in colour; it is easily killed by knocking off -into a pan of water containing a little kerosene. In the early morning -it is very sluggish, and may be picked off and killed, or the plants may -be showered with the Paris-green solution, but the appearance of the -first bug must be the signal for active operations. - -Plant Louse or Green Fly: This little insect commonly infests -house-plants; it is called a fly because in one stage of its existence -it has wings. The remedies are tobacco in some form, or sulpho-tobacco -soap syringed on the foliage, or the hot-water bath. - -Black or Chrysanthemum Lice require practically the same treatment. -Tobacco-dust on the leaves will usually prevent their appearance, and -should be applied early in the summer and after every rain. - -The Mealy Bug is a little whitish mass, like cotton in appearance, often -found on house-plants and on the Spiræas. Syringe with whale-oil soap -solution; or, if the plant is small, work over it, touching each bug -with a brush dipped in alcohol; or use the hot-water bath. - -Red Spider can only be kept at bay by fresh air and the plentiful use of -water; spray or syringe daily. Use the hot-water bath if the spiders -have gotten a foothold. - -Rose Hopper, or Thrips—small yellowish insects on the under side of Rose -leaves, from which they suck the juice, causing them to turn brown; -whale-oil soap syringed on the under side of the leaves is the best -remedy. - -Rose Slugs are small green caterpillars that feed on the Rose leaves and -buds, lying on the under side of the leaves, or drawing two leaves -together with a slight web. Work over the plants, pinching the leaves -between thumb and finger, or syringe with whale-oil solution, or dust -with powdered hellebore when wet. - -Rose Bug—a small, dark bug striped with light yellow, which is very -destructive to the Roses, eating the flowers. Plants may be syringed, or -showered with the Paris-green solution at night or early in the morning, -but must be attended to promptly, as the bugs are very destructive, -stripping a bed of its flowers in a surprisingly short time. Roses -treated with Paris green should always be plainly and conspicuously -labelled to that effect. - -Earth-worms and the like may be easily destroyed by thoroughly soaking -the soil in the pots with lime-water, which is best done by plunging a -pot to the brim (not over) in the solution, and removing the worms as -they come to the surface. It may be necessary to repeat this once or -twice. - - - FORMULAS - -The following formulas are from the New York Agricultural Station and -are reliable: - - _Normal, or 1.6 per cent. Bordeaux - Mixture_ - - Copper Sulphate (blue vitriol) 6 pounds - Quicklime (good stone lime) 4 pounds - Water 50 gallons - -Dissolve the copper sulphate by putting it in a bag of coarse cloth, and -hanging it in a wooden or earthen vessel containing five or six gallons -of water. After the copper sulphate has dissolved, dilute with water to -twenty-five gallons; slake the lime, and add twenty-five gallons of -water; mix the two, and keep thoroughly stirred while using. If the -mixture is to be used on Carnations, or the like, it will adhere better -if a pound of hard soap be dissolved in hot water and added. - - _Kerosene Emulsion_ - - Hard Soap ½ pound - Boiling Water 1 gallon - Kerosene 2 gallons - -Dissolve the soap in the water; add the kerosene, and churn with a spray -or force-pump until they unite and have the appearance and consistency -of buttermilk. Dilute with water to twenty-five or thirty gallons before -applying. - - _Paris-green Solution_ - - Paris green 1 pound - Water 50 gallons - -Keep constantly stirred when using. - - - _Hot-water Bath_ - -The hot-water bath will, in nearly every case, take the place of -insecticides and give better results, as it thoroughly cleanses the -foliage and leaves no bad effects, if not too hot. Heat to 140° if for -spraying, and use before it cools; 136° if the plants are to be dipped. - -[Illustration: FENCES MAY BE MADE ATTRACTIVE WITH VINES OR PLANTS] - -Next in convenience to a pair of rubber gloves for the garden are the -duck mittens sold for household purposes. All sorts of garden work may -be done in these, even the transplanting of quite small plants. They -have also the advantage of being very cheap, or they may be manufactured -at home. Always have an extra pair on hand. Gardening without gloves is -ruinous to the hands and a needless discomfort. - -For watering the window-garden, a small pot with a long spout that will -go between the plants will be a great convenience, as by its use the -farthest plants may be watered without disturbing the others. This means -a saving of time on busy mornings, and insures against neglect. - -The life of the gardener who raises chickens is full of perplexities. -Certainly nothing is more vexing and discouraging than to have one’s -plants repeatedly scratched out of the ground by chickens. With netting -so cheap there is no good reason why chickens, or other farm stock, -should have the range of the yard. - -Nothing is more filthy or conducive to disease than the presence of -fowls in the door-yard. There are few house-yards that cannot be -isolated from the rest of the premises by a judicious use of -wire-netting, and where the conditions call for it this should be the -first thing done. It will not be at all satisfactory to surround the -beds with netting, which is inconvenient and unsightly. The whole yard, -or at least the entire garden, should be inclosed, using netting high -enough to turn any fowl, say at least five feet; even Plymouth Rocks -will take a four-foot fence. For Brown Leghorns six feet is a safer -height than five feet. There should be no place on the top of the fence -on which the birds can alight. At the bottom a board will make all -secure, and prevent the chickens digging under; and it will be better if -set a little below the surface of the ground, which should be made hard -and firm around it. - -Fences may be made attractive with vines or plants. Sweet-peas, -Nasturtiums, Morning-glories, Cobæa scandens, Wild Cucumbers, the -Scarlet-fruited Gourd, Roses, Clematis or Honeysuckles make a good -background for the lawn and beds of bright flowers. - - - - - Chapter _TWENTY-FOUR_ - A Chapter of Don’ts - - -Don’t forget to air the hotbeds on warm, sunny days, and to protect them -on cold ones. - -Don’t forget that plants need room to develop, and set them far enough -apart to make this possible. - -Don’t forget to water the window-boxes every day, and to keep the sand -in the sand-box wet all the time. - -Don’t forget to go over the Pansies and Sweet-peas every day, and remove -all withered flowers. Don’t let them suffer for want of water at any -period of their bloom. - -Don’t try to raise more plants than you have room for, or strength and -time to cultivate. A few plants well cared for are better than a -neglected garden—a most discouraging sight. The gardener will find -enough real difficulty without inviting disaster. - -Don’t try to follow all the advice that is offered you; make up your -mind what you want to do and go steadily ahead. If you fail you will -know how, and why, which is in itself a distinct gain. It is a good rule -never to take the advice of an unsuccessful person, no matter how -reasonable it sounds. Distrust garrulous advice; the gardener with real -knowledge is not inclined to force advice upon others. - -Don’t be cast down by adverse criticism unless your judgment tells you -it is deserved. The person who “knows it all” is never so much at home -as in some one else’s flower-garden, where the principal labour may be -done with the tongue. - -Don’t be wheedled into spoiling your plants by saving seed for one who -is perfectly able to buy; instead, give the address of the dealer from -whom you purchased, and suggest that he will be glad to fill orders. -Don’t rob your plant of cuttings that are necessary to its symmetry; -this, too, is a case for the florist. There are people who seem to feel -it an injustice for any one to possess a plant with more than one branch -so long as they are not supplied with that particular variety. - -Don’t, when you have purchased a dozen Violets or Primulas, meaning to -divide them after awhile to make the border you did not feel like -purchasing outright, be imposed upon to the extent of giving half of -them away to some one who has been waiting for this very opportunity. -The experienced gardener learns to steer such people away from plants -she does not wish to part with, or have mutilated, but the amateur is -looked upon as legitimate prey. I have frequently known people to break -a branch from plants they were handling, with the expectation of being -told to keep it. The remedy for this sort of thing is to immediately -place it in the ground with some remark about having a place for it. - -Don’t supply with cut flowers, plants, and the like, people who spend -more money for unnecessary luxuries than you do for your whole garden, -and then tell you how foolish you are to spend so much time and money, -and work so hard for your flowers. Don’t be too deeply impressed with -the sudden friendship at gardening time of the woman who has managed to -get along without your society all winter. Don’t be imposed upon by the -chronic plant-beggar, but suggest to her that you will be glad to lend -your catalogues; that in them she will find, at reasonable prices, all -the things you have in your garden; and that the florist will doubtless -be glad of her patronage. - -Don’t, on the other hand, be lacking in generosity of the right sort. -Flowers may be given to rich and poor alike, and carry no hint of -obligation, or unfitness. To the tired worker who has neither time nor -space to cultivate them, a handful of flowers, or a potted plant, which -can be spared from your abundance, will make a bit of sunshine well -worth the trouble. For many who cannot spare the trifling amount a -single plant or packet of seed would cost, the surplus plants from flats -or hotbeds will be a great pleasure, and one should not wait for -requests. Those who really cannot afford these things are rarely guilty -of the petty meanness of the professional plant-beggars. It is a good -plan to jot down, from time to time as they occur, the names of those -you would like to benefit in this way, and then, when you have surplus -plants, send word of that fact, and of the time when it will be -convenient to take them up. This will be better than sending the plants, -which might arrive when it would be inconvenient or impossible to attend -to them. - -There are so many ways of giving pleasure with flowers that one need -never be embarrassed with a surplus: the sick; the young girl who will -enjoy them for her party; the young matron, for her pretty luncheon; the -church service, the humble funeral, where the choicest and best should -go. A beautiful tact may be shown by a choice in harmony with the taste -of the recipient and the occasion for which they are intended. Do not -send all white flowers, or flowers with a heavy perfume, to the -sick-room. Bright flowers are better. Notice the cheer in a pot of -golden Daffodils or a bunch of Hepaticas. A charming thing is a handful -of Japanese Morning-glory buds picked and sent the night before, that -the invalid may watch their unfolding in the morning. I have known these -to give the greatest pleasure. - -Don’t be too greatly cast down by failures; they have their uses. One -failure, if it sets you to studying out the cause and remedy, is worth a -dozen haphazard successes. We grow plants with even success for some -time, then, without any recognised change in the treatment, we meet with -failure. We look for the reason, and our education is begun. When we -have found the cause of failure, we have made a long step forward. - -Don’t fail to take some good floral magazines, they are helpful in many -ways, and keep you in touch with what other workers are doing. - -Don’t try to work in unsuitable clothing. Easy, broad, solid shoes—not -any old run-down pair—should be considered as essential as a spade, or -rake, and skirts that clear the instep, and hang comfortably. Waists -with easy arm-holes and collar will enable one to work with a degree of -comfort that means the accomplishment of an amount of work in a morning -quite impossible were one less comfortably clad. Skirts of blue denim, -made Princess style, and ankle length, with comfortable -shirt-waists—denim for cool days, calico for warm—make a thoroughly -comfortable outfit. - - - THE END - - - - - Alphabetical Index - - - A - - =Abobra viridiflora=, fancy gourd, 96. - - =Abutilons=, 63, 64, 92. - Diversity of form and colour of New California, 64. - Time for flowering, 63. - - =Achimenes=, 60. - Cuttings of, how to root, 60. - - =Aconite=, Winter, 191. - - =Adverse criticism=, hints about, 254. - - =Advice=, hints about, 253. - - =Adlumia= (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Allegheny Vine), 46, 92, - 129. - Appropriate for use at funerals, 129. - Delightful grown on north side of house, 129. - Gathering seed from, 46. - Sowing seeds and planting, 129. - - =Ageratum=, Cope’s Favourite, 119. - Tom Thumb, 16. - - =Ageratums=, 16, 34, 35, 46, 81, 88, 91, 92, 94, 96, 101, 119, 121. - Dwarf variety admirably adapted for carpet bedding, 119. - How to sow, 35. - Indispensable for edgings, window-boxes and vases, 101. - Little Dorrit and Swanley Blue, 102. - Princess Caroline, 102. - Season for sowing, 102. - Should be clipped frequently, 47. - Tom Thumb, useful for edgings, 101. - - =Air-tight covers=, should never be used to protect plants, 205. - - =Alba plena Narcissi=, 191. - - =Alba superbissima Hyacinth=, 192. - - =Allegheny Vine=, 129. - - =Allemannia Cannas=, 15. - - =Alliums=, care and treatment of, 194. - - =Altheas=, 201, 202, 206. - - =Alyssum=. See Sweet Alyssum. - - =Amaryllis=, 75, 155, 162–165. - Evergreen, 162. - General treatment of, same as for Crinums, 162. - Johnsonii, 163. - - =American Beauty Rose=, 178. - - =Ammonia=, a stimulant for flowers, 25. - - =Ampelopsis=, 128, 207. - - =Anchusa capensis=, 119. - - =Anemones=, 192, 193. - Treatment and raising of, 193. - - =Annuals=, various, from seed, 98–111. - Hardy and tender, time for planting, 53. - Should not be grown in window-boxes, 96. - - =Annunciation Lily=, 205. - - =Anthony Waterer=, crimson Spiræa, 197. - - =Antirrhinums= (Snapdragons), 46, 91, 93, 96, 98, 99. - Firefly, 98. - Giant Crimson, Giant Yellow, Giant White and Niobe, 98. - How to protect in winter, 99. - Queen of the North, 98. - Seed of, 46. - Soil suitable for, 99. - Transplanting, 98. - Useful for cut flowers, window-boxes and vases, 98. - When to start seed, 98. - - =Ants=, nests of, in the Lily bulb, remedy for, 181. - - =Aphides=, or green plant-lice, prevention and remedy for, 70. - - =April=, shrubs and plants that bloom in, 234. - - =Aquatic Plants=, 165–172. - - =Aquilegia=. See Columbine. - - =Arrangement of flower-beds=, 10. - - =Arundo Donax=, ornamental grass, 5, 16. - - =Ashes=, a good fertiliser to sweeten the soil, 25. - Should not be mixed with manure, 25. - - =Asparagus=, 49, 64, 88, 94, 246. - All kinds benefited by frequent repotting, 64, 65. - Benefited by use of good fertiliser, 215. - How to raise and manage, 65. - - =Asparagus plumosus nanus=, 246. - Proper time for planting, 64. - - =Asparagus Sprengeri=, how to sow, 49, 50. - Successfully grown in baskets or pots, 65. - Unmanageable without fertiliser, 216. - - =Asparagus tenuissimus=, 246. - - =Asters=, 10, 25, 34, 43, 53, 99. - A necessity of the fall garden, 99. - Aim of the specialist, 99. - Arranging for vases, 100. - Bees do not care for, 43. - Black beetle an unpleasant pest to, 247. - Bride, 99. - Chrysanthemum flowered, 99, 100. - Cosmos borer destructive to, 247. - Early planting recommended, 100. - Frequent watering necessary, 101. - Giant White Comet, 99. - Japanese Tassel, 97. - Kerosene for killing insects on, 100. - Ostrich Feather, 99. - Paris-green in the watering-pot for killing beetles, 100. - Peony, 99. - Perfection, 99. - Proper place for planting, 10. - Transplanting, 101. - Use of seed of, 43. - When to plant seed, 100. - - =Aster-beds=, ashes for fertilising, 25. - - =Atmospheric moisture=, maintaining a fair degree of, 209. - - =August=, shrubs and plants that bloom in, 240–242. - - =Auratum Lily=, growth of the, on wooded hillsides, 184. - - =Aurea Bambusa=, 171. - - =Aurora Pansy=, 116. - - - B - - =Bacon rind=, for keeping moles from Iris roots, 200. - - =Balsams=, 47, 102, 103. - Benefited by transplanting, 102. - Camellia-flowered varieties best, 102. - Double white and shell pink, valuable for decorative work, 103. - Plenty of room required for branching, 102. - Starting the seed, 102. - Transplanting, 102. - - =Bamboo=, 171. - Requires abundant water-supply, 171. - Varieties of, 171. - - =Bambusa Arundinacea=, 171. - Aurea, 171. - Metake, 171. - - =Banana plants=, 145. - Caring for, in winter, 145. - Grow more ornamental indoors, 145. - Planted in tubs or open ground, 145. - Plants should be grown by themselves, 145. - Showy and attractive, 145. - Soil and water for, 145. - Southeast angle of building an ideal location for, 145. - Storing in cellar during winter, 146. - - =Baroness Van Thuyl Hyacinth=, 192. - - =Baskets, hanging.= See Hanging-Baskets. - - =Beetles, black.= See Black beetles. - - =Begonia cuttings=, how to root, 60. - - =Begonia=, Dwarf Bijou, 66. - Erfordii, 66. - Rex, how to plant and raise, 66. - Vernon, 66. - Vulcan, when to plant, 66. - - =Begonias=, 39, 48, 58, 60, 66, 67, 88, 92–94, 97, 117, 150, 245. - An excellent place for, 245, 246. - Injured by use of fertilisers, 216. - Setting out, and storing during winter, 67, 68. - The best varieties of, 66. - The finest flower for bedding or pot culture, 67. - - =Begonias, tuberous=— - Bedding out, 150. - Instructions for planting, bedding and setting out, 67. - Proper temperature for growing, 150. - Shading from the heat, 151. - Starting and potting, 150. - - =Bermuda Oxalis=, should be grown in hanging-baskets, 195. - - =Bignonia Radicans= (Trumpet Vine)— - Best method of supporting it, 140. - Blooms nearly all summer, 139. - Desirable as a climber, 140. - Grown as a lawn shrub, 140. - Hedges of, should be kept pruned for symmetrical growth, 139. - Most desirable for hedges, 139. - Not appreciated sufficiently, 139. - - =Black Beauty Cannas=, 15. - - =Black beetles=, a pest to Asters, 247. - How to destroy, 100. - - =Black lice=, remedy for, 248. - - “=Black spot=,” fungous disease of the Rose, 247. - - =Black-eyed Susan=, 136. - - =Blood=, from slaughter-houses, a good fertiliser, 28. - - =Blooming season of various trees=, shrubs, and plants, 234–244. - - =Boards for siding in making flower-beds=, 8. - - =Bone-meal=, a substitute for, 27. - As a fertiliser, 28. - - =Bonfire Salvia=, 121. - - =Bordeaux mixture=, for fungoid disease in Pansies, 115. - As an insecticide, 244. - Formula for, 249. - - =Borders=, exquisite flowers for, 197, 198. - - =Borers=, destroying chrysalis of, 203. - - =Bougainvillea=, 209. - - =Bouquet=, an ideal, 103. - - =Bracket plants=, Thunbergias valuable for, in winter, 136. - - =Brackets=, use of, increases capacity of window, 208, 209. - - =Bride Aster=, 99. - - =Bride Rose=, 178. - - =Bruant Geranium=, for south and west window-boxes, 91. - - =Bryonopsis=, 96, 132. - - =Bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants=, 147. - - =Bulbs=, for the amateur, 192. - For winter blooming, 192. - Hardy in Middle States, may not be so in Northern States, 191, 192. - Hints on potting outdoors, 194. - Late fall or winter planting of, preferable to spring planting, 188. - Of hardy plants, caring and preserving, 195. - - =Burbank Cannas=, 15. - - =Burpee’s Defiance Petunia=, 84. - - =Buying seeds=, 41–47. - - - C - - =Cabbage-worm=, how to destroy, 204. - - =Caladium esculentum= (Elephant’s Ears), 149. - An ideal plant for the amateur, 149. - Native of Sandwich Islands, 149. - Root of, edible, 149. - Roots should be started in pots, 149. - Winter easily and multiply rapidly, 150. - - =Caladiums=, 5, 15, 18, 22, 88, 89, 93, 149, 150, 151, 185, 186, 246. - Beds of, 5. - Proper soil for, 18. - - =Caladiums, fancy-leaved=— - Caring for, in fall and winter, 151. - Desirable for window-boxes and for porches, 151. - Develop their colours best in the shade, 151. - Flourish in a warm atmosphere, 151. - Gorgeousness of colour and delicacy of growth, 151. - - =Calceolaria=, 63, 68, 74. - Handling and raising, instructions for, 68. - Infinite variety of, 68. - One of the most easily cultivated house-plants, 68. - Varieties and easy cultivation of, 68. - - =California Sunflower=, 197. - - =Callus=, formation of, in cuttings, 61. - - =Camphor Geraniums=, 91. - - =Candidums=, 182. - - =Candytuft=, 46. - - =Cannas=, 4, 5, 14, 15, 18, 22, 29, 110, 121, 141, 142, 145, 147, 148, - 150, 185, 187. - Allemannia, 15. - Beds of, should be lower than the lawn, 142. - Best way of handling roots, 147. - Black Beauty, 15. - Burbank, 15. - Care of, 185–187. - Chicago, 15. - Florence Vaughan, 15. - French and orchid-flowered varieties should be started in the house, - 147. - Frozen portions should be removed, 185. - Grow from seeds as easily, cheaply, and as soon as from bulbs, 141. - Hints for planting and potting, 142. - Italia, 15. - Most convenient place for starting bulbs, 148. - Orchid-flowered Cannas difficult to winter, 186. - Papa, 15. - Planting in baskets, 147. - Proper soil for, 18. - Queen Charlotte, 15. - Roots to be saved should be dried in the sun, 186. - Seeds should be filed before planting, 141. - Should be wintered in a dry cellar, 186. - Storing of tubers, 186. - Suitable soil for, 142. - Time for sowing seed, 142. - Time for starting, 147. - - =Canterbury-bells=, cold-frames useful to protect, 37. - - =Carnation-frames=, 72. - - =Carnation support=, an easily made, 72. - - =Carnations=, 39, 40, 61, 70–72, 76, 205, 250. - Giant of California, 70. - Growing winter plants, 72. - How to perpetuate any variety, 71. - Keeping for winter blooming and for second year, 71. - Keeping free from insects, 72, 73. - Layerings valuable for, 61. - Marguerite, 70. - Methods employed by florists to produce long-stemmed varieties, 71. - Most easily grown of all house-plants, 70. - Planting and varieties of, 70. - - =Castor-oil Bean=, 144. See Ricinus. - - =Centrosema= (Butterfly Pea), 130. - Beautiful plant when in bloom, 131. - Charming vine for north or east window, 94. - Hard to propagate from seed, 130. - Slender growth but hardy, 132. - Transplanting and watering, 131. - Treatment of seeds before sowing, 130, 131. - - =Chalcedonica Lychnis=, hardy white flower, 198. - - =Chameleon Nasturtium=, 111. - - =Charcoal for preserving Asters=, 100. - - =Chicago Cannas=, 15. - - =Chicken fences=, how to make, 251, 252. - - =Chicken netting=, for use in the hotbed, 37. - - =Chickens should not be allowed in the garden=, 251. - - =Chionodoxa=, 191. - - =Christ and the Apostles=. See Crinum Scabrum. - - =Chrysanthemum Flowered Aster=, 99. - - =Chrysanthemum lice=, remedy for, 248. - - =Chrysanthemums=, 126. - Keeping free from insects, 127. - Planting out and cultivating, 126. - Potting and boxing, 127. - Treatment of branches, 126. - - =Cigar-boxes=, convenient for raising fine seeds in, 48. - - =Cinder walks=, construction of, 9. - - =Cinerarias=, 48, 58, 62, 63, 69, 143, 208. - Care in raising in summer and winter, 69. - Colours and varieties of, 69. - Treatment of, for preserving through winter, 69, 70. - - =Clara Bedman Salvia=, 121. - - =Clematis= (Virgin’s Bower), 65, 137–139, 203, 252. - Caring for and protecting in winter, 138. - Cosmos borer destructive to, 247. - Flammula, 138, 198. - Jackmanni, 138. - Leaves protect roots in winter, 207. - Mrs. Edward Andre, 138. - Most expensive vines to buy, 137. - Paniculata, 138. - Planting and raising, 137. - Potting, 137. - Raising from seed cheapest way of obtaining them, 137. - Ramona, 138. - Trimming plants, 139. - - =Clothing=, suitable, necessary for comfort for working in the garden, - 257. - - =Clover-root=, 65. - - =Coal-ash walks=, construction of, 9. - - =Cobæa San Salvador=, 130. - Admirable for covering old trees, 130. - Cling to stone and brick, 130. - Foliage of, 130. - Manner of growth, 130. - Starting seed, 130. - - =Cobæa scandens= (Cup-and-Saucer Vine), 129. - Desirable summer vine, 129. - Height and bloom of, 129. - Position of, in the hotbed, 35. - - =Coccinea Hibiscus=, 108. - - =Coccinea Indica=, foliaged fancy gourd, 96. - - =Coix lachryma=, 16. - - =Cold-frame=, the, 37, 38. - Drainage of, in winter, 38. - For growing Gloxinias and rooting cuttings, 37. - For sowing Pansy-seed, 37. - How made, 37. - Protection of, at night, 38. - Useful to protect beds of tender perennials, 37. - - =Coleus=, 4, 5, 15, 46, 58, 59, 89, 92, 142, 143, 151. - Cuttings, treatment of, 59. - Indispensable in ornamental bedding, 142. - Must not bloom, 46. - Period of germination, 143. - Pinching and watering, 143. - Raised from seed, 142. - Sensitive to cold, 143. - Suitable soil for, 143. - - =Colours=, harmony of, in flowerbeds, 11. - - =Columbine=, 104, 105. - Time for sowing seed, 104. - Transplanting, 104. - - =Common names of flowers=, 217–233. - - =Compost=, composition of fine and rough, 51. - - =Compost heap=, use for, 203. - - =Cope’s Favourite Ageratum=, 119. - - =Corn Fodder=, winter protection for flowers, 206. - - =Cosmos=, 44, 103, 203. - Cut flowers of, popularity of, 103. - Early flowering varieties only should be grown in the North, 103. - Excellent way of growing them, 104. - Fresh seed necessary every other year, 104. - How to advance their bloom, 103. - Make ideal bouquets, 103. - Popularity of, 103. - Position of, in the hotbed, 35. - - =Cosmos borer=, preventive of, 247. - - =Cow manure=, best for the majority of plants, 23. - - =Crinums=, 155–162. - Americana, 161. - Blooming, time required for, 157. - Capense, 160. - Easily grown, 155. - Erubescens, 160. - Expensive luxuries, 159. - Fimbriatum, 161. - Grandolia or Augustum, 161. - Kirkii, 159. - Kunthianum, 159, 162. - Lack of knowledge as to habits of, by florists, 155. - Moorei, 160. - Must be protected from heavy rain, 159. - Ornatum, 159. - Pedunculatum, 161. - Potting of the dry bulbs, 156. - Root-growth of, 156. - Scabrum, 160. - Secret of culture of, 158. - Soil required for, 156. - Treatment of bulb before growth, 157. - Water, amount of, necessary, 158. - Wintering of, 159. - - =Criticism=, adverse, hints about, 254. - - =Crocus=, 189, 192, 193. - A pretty way to grow them, 190. - Seed formation of, 189. - - =Crotons=, 39, 89, 92, 151. - Best position for, in the sandbox, 39. - - =Crown Imperials=, 191. - - =Cucumber=, Wild, 90–96, 132, 252. - - =Cup-and-Saucer Vine=, 129. - - =Cut flowers=, judgment should be used in giving away, 247. - - =Cuttings=, of common house plants, directions for handling, 58. - How to save those liable to decay, 61. - Lists for selection of, 58. - - =Cutworms=, destruction of, 203. - - =Cyclamen=, 42, 74, 75. - Bush Hill Pioneer, cost of seed of, 42. - Protecting from moisture and repotting, 75. - Starting, raising, and setting out, 74. - Treatment of, in the spring, 75. - - =Cyclamen Amaryllis=, must not be allowed to dry out entirely, 75. - - =Cyperus=, or Umbrella-plant, 60, 73, 74, 168. - Growing from seed an economy, 73. - Growing in jardinières, 73. - How to sow the seeds, 73. - Raising from cuttings, 73. - Semi-aquatic qualities of, 73. - Two varieties of, 74. - - =Cypripedium Acaule.= See Japanese Iris. - - =Czar Peter=, blue Hyacinth, 192. - - - D - - =Daffodils=, 256. - - =Dahlias=, 27, 105, 148, 149, 186, 187, 204. - Best started in baskets of sand, 148. - Borer, how to destroy, 106. - Care and protection of, for exhibition purposes, 106. - Cosmos borer destructive to, 247. - Easily raised from seed, 105. - Easily wintered, 187. - For corsage wear, single varieties best, 106, 107. - Hints on grafting, 148, 149. - Planting the seed, 105. - Should be wintered in a dry cellar, 186. - Transplanting, and treatment after, 105. - Variety desirable for cut flowers and garden rows, 106. - Worms or beetles on, how to destroy, 106. - - =Daisies=, 107. - Beds, suitable for borders of, 107. - Protection of, in winter, 107. - Rockwork, colours suitable for, 107. - Starting the seeds, 107. - - =Day Lily=, 201. - - =Deutzia Gracilis=, 198. - - =Diagrams for planning a garden=, 11–14. - - =Dog-tooth Violets=, 191. - - =Dolichos=, where to place in the hotbed, 35. - - =Don’ts=, a chapter of, 253–257. - - =Drainage=, good, necessary for rendering soil light and sandy, 17. - - =Duck mittens=, for garden work, 250. - - =Dusty-miller=, border plants of, 8. - - =Dwarf Bijou Begonia=, 66. - - - E - - =Earth worms=, how to destroy, 249. - - =Eastern exposure=, combination of flowers suitable for window-boxes, - 92, 93. - - =Edgings=, plants used for, 10. - - =Egyptian Lotus=, interesting peculiarity of leaves of, 168. - Suitable for growing in small ponds, 168. - - =Eight-foot flower-beds=, 16. - - =Elephant’s Ears=, 149. - - =Emperor and Empress Narcissus=, 191, 192. - - =English names of flowers=, 217–233. - - =Erfordii Begonia=, 66. - - =Erianthus Ravennæ=, ornamental grass, 5, 16. - - =Eschscholtzias=, as a border for Pansy-beds, 118. - - =Eulalia univittata=, 5, 16. - - =Evergreen Amaryllis=, 162. - - - F - - =Farfugium=, 94. - - =Feathers=, as fertiliser for shrubs and hardy perennials, 28. - - =Fences=, how to make attractive, 252. - - =Ferns=, 23, 88, 94, 246. - - =Fertiliser for house-plants=, 215. - - =Fertilisers=, 23–29. - Injurious to Begonias, 217. - Necessary for Asparagus Sprengeri, 216. - Next in importance to a good soil, 23. - - =Filipendula=, herbaceous Spiræa, 197. - - =Firefly Antirrhinum=, for bedding, 98. - - =Flame Lily=, 183. - - =Flats, or boxes=, treatment of young plants in, 50. - - =Floral magazines=, helpful in many ways to the amateur gardener, 257. - - =Florence Vaughan Canna=, 15. - - =Florists’ sashes for hotbeds=, 32. - - =Floss Flower.= See Ageratum. - - =Flower-beds=, arranging and marking off, 6. - General effect of growing one kind of flower in, 10. - Instructions for laying out, 14. - Instructions for making solid beds of one flower, 53. - Water-supply for, 5. - Width of, 7. - - =Flower-pots=, must not be filled to the brim with earth, 210. - - =Flowering Maples=, 63. - - =Flowers=, common and English names of, 217–233. - Many ways of giving pleasure with, 256. - Necessary for a twelve-foot foliage-bed, 14. - Occasionally appearing in two or more sections, 232, 233. - Selecting, for the sick-room, 256. - - =Foliage-bed=, how to make a twelve-foot, 14. - Beds facing south warmer than others, 188. - Design of, 12, 13. - Ideal bed for early bulbs, 188. - Manuring and fertilising, 187. - Soil of, should have good natural drainage, 187. - - =Foliage plants=, ornamental, from seed, 141–146. - - =Formulas=, for Bordeaux Mixture, 249. - For house-plant fertiliser, 215. - For insecticides, 249. - For kerosene emulsion, 250. - For Paris-green solution, 250. - - =Foxgloves=, in the cold-frame, 37. - - =Freesia=, 40, 192, 194. - Hints on caring for and raising, 194. - - =Freezing of soil in pots=, no harm to plants or bulbs, 214. - - =French Lilacs=, 201. - Blooming season of, 201. - Planting of, 201. - Useful as backgrounds, 201. - - =Fresh-air=, how it should be supplied, 213. - In the living room necessary to keep insects from plants, 215. - - =Fritillarias=, 191. - - =Frosted plants=, treatment for, 214. - - =Frozen plants=, how to thaw out, 213. - How to treat, 213. - - =Fuchsias=, 58, 88, 91, 93, 94. - - =Fumitory=, Climbing, 129. - - =Funkia= (Plantain Lily), or Day Lily, 201. - Impatient of disturbance, 201. - Needs protection in winter, 201. - Suitable soil for, 201. - - - G - - =Garden, the location and arrangement of=, 3–16. - Beds, laying out the, 13, 14. - Best position for the garden, 3. - Fall clearing of the, 203. - Flower-beds, elevated, 5. - Flower-beds, selection of flowers for, 10. - Foliage beds for lawns, diagram of, 10, 12, 14, 15. - How to prepare the flower-garden, 8. - Lawns, arrangement of, 4. - Ornamental grasses, beds of, 16. - Ornamental plants for beds, 4. - Parti-coloured flower-beds, arrangement of, 11. - Rose-garden, design for, 12. - Scheme for permanent garden, 6. - Shrubbery, planning a, 12. - South slope, ideal situation for garden, 3. - Walks, arrangement and treatment of, 9. - - =Garden Spiræa=, 197. - - =Garden-walks=, marking off and measuring, 6. - - =Gardener=, amateur, advice to the, 20. - - =Geranium seeds=, irregularity of growth, 78. - - =Geraniums=, 39, 58, 59, 62, 76–78, 89–92, 94, 192. - Bruant, 91. - Camphor, 91. - Choice varieties produced by seeds from hybridised flowers, 76. - Developing of, a fascinating study, 76. - Easy to raise, 76. - Flourish best in the sun, 211. - Hints on growing, 78. - In the sand-box, 39. - Ivy, 78. - Lady Washington, 76. - Most satisfactory for south or west window-boxes, 91. - Pelargonium, 77. - Should be grown close to glass, 77. - Souvenir de Charles Turner, 91. - When to sow seed, 76. - Zonale, 77. - - =German Iris=, colour effects of, 198, 199. - - =Germination of seeds=, time for, 228–232. - - =Giant Cassier Pansy=, 116. - Cost of seed of, 41. - - =Giant Crimson Antirrhinum=, for bedding, 98. - - =Giant of California Carnation=, how to raise, pot out, and cultivate, - 70. - - =Giant of California Petunia=, 84. - - =Giant Trimardeau Pansy=, 216. - Cost of seed of, 41. - - =Giant Welshman Narcissus=, 192. - - =Giant White Antirrhinum=, 91, 98. - - =Giant White Comet Aster=, 99. - - =Giant Yellow Antirrhinum=, for bedding, 98. - - =Giant Yellow Hibiscus=, 108. - - =Gladioli=, keep well in winter stored in flour-sacks, 187. - - =Gladiolus=, 10, 22, 25, 152, 187. - Bulbs should be planted deeply, 152. - Childsi, 152. - Fall and winter care of, 152, 153. - Hints on planting, 152. - Improvement in culture of, 152. - Rapid increase of, 152. - Reasons for planting deeply, 152. - Require frequent cultivation, 152. - Should be planted in the full sunshine, 10. - - =Gladiolus-beds=, ashes for fertilising, 25. - - =Glazing and painting old window sashes for hotbeds=, 32. - - =Glechoma=, suitable for the north side of house, 91, 92. - - =Glory of the Snow=, 191. - - =Gloves=, gardening without, ruinous to hands, 251. - - =Gloxinia-cuttings=, treatment of, 60. - - =Gloxinias=, 37, 39, 48, 58, 60–62, 78, 79, 151, 245, 246. - An excellent place for, 245, 246. - Caring for the bulbs, 79. - High temperature required for growing, 151. - Hints on potting, 79. - How seeds are sown, 78. - How to start the plants, 151. - In the cold-frame, 37. - Keeping soil moist, 78. - Mulch preferable to cultivation for, 79. - Must be protected from heat, cold, and draughts, 78. - Period of blooming, 79. - Potting, 78. - - =Golden Glow= (Rudbeckia), hardy yellow flower, 197. - - =Golden Saxatile Alyssum=, 122. - - =Gourds=— - Develop rapidly after making root, 133. - Good for covering fences or unsightly buildings, 132. - Liable to cutworms, 133. - Ornamental feature of summer garden, 132. - Seed sown early in season, 132. - - =Gracillima univittata Eulalia=, ornamental grass, 5. - - =Grand Lilas=, blue Hyacinths, 192. - - =Grass walks a nuisance to the gardener=, 9. - - =Gravel walks=, construction of, 9. - - =Green fly=, remedies for, 248. - - =Gruss an Teplitz Rose=, 178. - - =Guano as a fertiliser=, 28. - - - H - - =Hammock=, view of the garden from the, 4. - - =Hanging-baskets=— - How to water, 210. - Manettia Vine very attractive for, 136. - Plants in, require more water than those on low shelves, 214. - Should be securely hung with copper wire, 209. - Thunbergias valuable for, in winter, 136. - - =Hardy perennials=, planting beds of, 10. - - =Hardy plants=— - Moving and transplanting of, 196. - Setting out in Southern and Northern States, 196. - - =Hardy shrubs and plants for fall planting=, 196. - - =Harmonising of tints in arranging parti-coloured beds=, 11. - - =Heeling-in=, definition of, 190. - - =Heliotropes=, 11, 39, 59, 80, 81, 88, 89, 91, 93, 117. - Care of, when grown as house-plants, 81. - Channels should be opened in roots of, to allow water to pass in, - 210. - Combined with Ageratum, effect of, 81. - Desirable bedding plants, 81. - Lemoine’s seedlings exceptionally large and early, 80. - More easily raised from seed than from cuttings, 80. - Proper time for sowing the seed, 80. - Secret of successful growing, 80. - Should be in front of the sandbox, 39. - - =Hen manure suitable for cold soils=, 23. - - =Hepaticas=, 256. - - =Hibiscus= (Marshmallow), 11, 46, 58, 103, 107–109, 203. - Africanus, hardy annual, 108. - An herbaceous perennial, 108. - Beds of, 11. - Blooms freely if not allowed to seed, 46. - Chinese, 58. - Coccinea, a tender perennial, 108. - Cultivation of, 107, 108. - Do not bear transplanting well, 108. - Flowers the first season if started early, 108. - Giant Yellow, partially hardy, 108. - Increase in size yearly, 109. - Principal varieties of, 107. - Should be potted very hard, 58. - Six-year clumps superb, 109. - Supports for, 109. - Time for planting, 108. - - =Hickory tussock-moth=, destroying cocoons of, 204. - - =Hints on planting and transplanting=, 54–56. - - =Hints on potting=, 57, 58. - - =Hints on shifting plants=, 57. - - =Hollyhocks=, 11, 46, 109, 110, 203. - Allegheny, hardy variety, 110. - Attacks of insects on, 110. - Beds of, 11. - Planting, 109. - Require hilling up in winter, 110. - Seed of, 46. - Sowing the seed, 109. - Suitable for effective grouping, 109. - - =Honeysuckle=, 61, 252. - Layering valuable for, 61. - - =Hoof-parings=, good for the perennial flower-bed, 28. - - =Horse manure=, good in clayey soil, 23. - - =Horsfieldi Narcissus=, 191, 192. - - =House-plant raising a most fascinating work=, 62. - - =House-plants=, a good fertiliser for, 215. - Care of, in winter, 208–216. - Cuttings of, easily rooted, 50. - Directions for handling, 58. - From seeds, 62–87. - - =Hotbed=, the, 30–37. - A cheap way of making a, 32. - Best position for, 31. - Care and attention of, 36. - Chicken netting for use as screens in the, 37. - Construction of pit of, 32. - How to construct a, 31–34. - Screens for, 36. - Treatment of plants in the, 33, 34. - - =Hotbeds=, airing and protecting, 253. - - =Hotbed-sashes=, cost of, 31. - Proper size of, 31. - - =Hot-water bath=, gives better results than insecticides, 250. - - =Hyacinths=, 38, 170, 188, 189, 192. - Alba superbissima, 192. - Baroness Van Thuyl, 192. - Czar Peter, 192. - Grand Lilas, 192. - Hints on selecting, 192. - Ida, 192. - La Grandesse, 192. - Norma gigantea, 192. - Planting, distance apart for, 188. - Roi des Belges, 192. - Should be planted alone, 188. - Treatment of, and potting in the fall, 192, 193. - Use of cold-frame for, 38. - Varieties of, 192. - Wood, 191. - - =Hyacinths=, Water, 170. - Novelty of, 170. - Nuisance of, in Florida rivers, 170. - Paris green must not be used in water, 170. - Roots increase rapidly, 170. - - =Hypericum Moserianum=, 197. - - - I - - =Iceland Poppies=, 118. - - =Ida, yellow Hyacinth=, 192. - - =Impatiens sultana=, 58. - - =Indian Shot=, 141. - - =Insecticides=, 246–252. - - =Insects in the Rosebud=, remedies for, 177. - - =Instructions for raising seeds and young plants in flats or boxes=, - 50. - - =Iris=, 23, 166, 197. - Care required in raising various kinds of, 197. - Should be divided every three or four years, 199. - Transplanting of, 196. - Valuable for borders on drives and walks, 198. - See, also, Japanese Iris. - - =Italia Cannas=, 15. - - =Ivy=, use of, for covering and protecting walls in England, 128. - - =Ivy Geraniums=, extra care required to keep low and stocky, 78. - - - J - - =Jackmanni Clematis=, 138. - - =Japan Lilies=, beds of, 11. - - =Japanese Hop=— - Deserves to be extensively grown, 133. - Female plant only bears seed, 133. - Foliage very showy and effective, 133. - Pays well for care in cultivation, 133. - Requires an elastic support, 134. - - =Japanese Iris=, best place for setting out, 10. - Has no insect pest, 199. - Moles have a liking for roots of, 199. - Wonderful colours and size of, 199. - - =Japanese Morning-glory=, 91, 134. - Grown in pots by Japanese, 134. - Hints how to raise successfully, 134, 135. - Requires support, 135. - Should be started in house or hotbed, 134. - - =Japanese Tassel Aster=, 99. - - =June and July=, shrubs and plants that bloom in, 237, 239, 240. - - =June Roses subject to insects=, 176. - - =Justicia=, 93. - - - K - - =Kaiserin Augusta Victoria Rose=, 178. - - =Kerosene emulsion=, 250. - - =Kilmarnock Willow=, 140. - - =Krameri Lily=, 182. - - - L - - =Lady-slipper.= See Balsams. - - =Lady Washington Geranium=, 76. - - =La Grandesse Hyacinth=, 192. - - =Lantanas=, 42, 46, 81–83, 92. - Description of, 81. - Make fine hedgerows, 83. - May seed freely, 46. - Not a desirable plant for the house, 82. - Starting the seed, 82. - Treatment of, in raising, 82. - Weeping Lantanas, 81, 83. - Will bloom freely in the house, 83. - - =Larkspur=, excellent for rear beds, 11. - - =Lavender=, 11. - - =Lawn=, a neglected, amount of labour involved in a, 6. - - =Layering=, a form of rooting cuttings, 61. - - =Laying out flower-beds=, 13, 14. - - =Leaf-mould=, composition of, 18. - For flower-garden, 7. - For use in boxes, 48. - How to make, 21. - Where found, 18. - - =Leaves=, an excellent protection to plants in the winter, 205. - - =Lilies=, 9, 11, 12, 168, 179–184, 204. - Auratum Lily bulbs, 180. - Best time for planting, 183. - Day, 201. - Flame, 183. - Funkia, 201. - General treatment of all kinds of, 182. - Hardy, planting of, 183. - How Japanese protect their plants, 180. - Ideal spot for, 12. - Injured by exposure to air and thawings, 180, 181. - Japanese, 181, 182. - Krameri, 182. - Left to themselves, growth of, 183. - Longiflorum, 182. - Plantain, 201. - Washingtonianum, 182. - - =Lilium album=, description of, 181. - - =Lilium auratum=, 180. - - =Lilium Brownii=, 182. - - =Lilium candidum=, 180. - Must be planted early, 180. - Soil required for, 180. - - =Lilium giganteum=, the most wonderful and tallest variety of Lily, - 182. - - =Lilium rubrum=, most easily grown, 181. - - =Lilium speciosum=, exceeding beauty of, 181. - - =Lily-bed=, the hardy, 179–184. - As a garden investment, 179. - Building the bed, 180. - Fibrous-rooted plants, hardy shrubs, and perennials give best - results, 179. - Selecting a site for, 180. - - =Lily, Pond=— - Process of germination of, 169. - Sowing the seed of, 169. - - =Lily-pond=— - Cementing a pond, 166, 167. - Constructing a, 165. - Diverting a small stream for a, 166. - How to keep clear and sweet, 172. - Objections raised to, 171. - Renewing water in, 165. - Zinc tubs for small water-ponds, 167. - - =Liquid manure=, how to prepare, 26, 27. - How to use, 28. - - =Little Dorrit Ageratum=, 102. - - =Loam=, the best garden soil, 17. - - =Longiflorum Lily=, 182. - - =Lotus=, 168. - - =Lotus Peliorhynchus=, 92. - - =Lychnis=, herbaceous perennials, 198. - Semperflorens plenissima, 198. - - =Lychnis Chalcedonica=, 198. - - - M - - =Madame Gunther Nasturtium=, 111. - - =Manettia Vine=, 93, 136. - Blooms more freely when pot-bound, 137. - Daily watering required, 136. - Satisfactory for winter blooming, 136. - Time for repotting, 137. - - =Manure=, preparation of, for the garden, 24. - Proper use of, in the hotbed, 32. - - =Manure-barrel=, how to handle, 26, 27. - - =Manure-water=, how to prepare, 25, 26. - - =Manures=, cow, horse, hen, and sheep, 23. - Quantity necessary for use, 29. - - =Maples=, flowering, 63. - - =Marguerite Carnations=, best for outdoor blooming, 70. - - =Marshmallow.= See Hibiscus. - - =Maurandya=, 46, 90, 91, 93, 135, 246. - A beautiful vine for window-boxes, 90. - Height of plant and colours of flowers, 135. - Requires no special treatment, 135. - Seed of, gathered without harm to vine, 46. - Suitable for trellises, window-boxes, and vases, 135. - Time for sowing seed, 135. - - =May=, trees, shrubs, and plants that bloom in, 235, 236. - - =Mealy bug=, remedy for the, on house-plants, 248. - - =Metake Bambusa=, 171. - - =Milk-and-Wine Lily=, 161. - See also Crinum fimbriatum. - - =Miranda Petunia=, 84. - - =Mixed seeds=, variety of, 62. - - =Moisture-loving plants=, best place for setting out, 10. - - =Moles=, liking of, for roots of Japanese Iris, 199. - Netting and traps for, 199. - - =Monkshood=, 11, 46, 122. - Excellent for rear beds, 11. - - =Montbretias=— - Desirable for cut flowers, 153. - Keep well through winter in flour sacks, 187. - May be grown in corners of flower-bed, 153. - Multiply rapidly, 153. - Resemble Gladioli in flower and foliage, 153. - - =Moonlight Nasturtium=, 111. - - =Morning-Glories=, 42, 44, 46, 91, 94, 252, 256. - Reaching the roof by strings, 94. - Require little root room, 94. - Seed of, 46. - See also Japanese Morning-Glories. - - =Mountain Fringe=, 129. - - =Mrs. Edward Andre Clematis=, 138. - - =Mrs. Robert Perry Rose=, 178. - - =Muck or peat=, preparation of, 18, 19. - - =Myosotis=, 119. - - - N - - =Narcissi=, 38, 188, 191, 192. - Alba plena, 119. - All species are hardy, 191. - Emperor and Empress, 191, 192. - Giant Welshman, 192. - Horsfieldi, 191, 192. - Odoratus, 191. - Paper white, 192. - Planting of various varieties of, 190. - Poeticus, 191. - Treatment of, and potting in the fall, 192, 193. - Trumpet varieties of, 192. - Use of cold-frame for, 38. - Varieties of, 191, 192. - Von Sion, 191, 192. - - =Nasturtiums=, 15, 45, 92, 94, 96, 110, 111, 252. - Chameleon, new variety, 111. - Dwarf varieties very attractive for Canna-beds, 110. - Flourish well in elevated beds, 111. - Grown on strings and trellises, 111. - Madame Gunther, mixed variety, 111. - Make excellent edges for beds, 15. - Moonlight, pale cream variety, 111. - Require abundant root room, 94. - Saving seed of, 45. - Sunlight, new variety, 111. - Tall varieties make effective beds, 111. - Trailers, not climbers, 111. - Will not bloom well in shade, 110. - - =Nicotianas=, how to sow, 35. - - =Nine-foot flower-beds=, 15. - - =Niobe Antirrhinum=, for bedding, 98. - - =Norma gigantea Hyacinth=, 192. - - =Northern exposure=, combination of flowers suitable for window-boxes, - 93, 94. - - =Nymphæas=, 168–170. - Hardy, for planting in soil of Lily-pond, 168. - Varieties of, suitable for amateur cultivation, 169. - - - O - - =Odds and ends=, chapter of, 245–252. - - =Odoratus Narcissus=, 191. - - =Orchid-flowered Cannas=, treatment of, in winter, 186. - - =Oriental Poppies=, 118. - - =Ornamental foliage plants=, beds of, 4. - From seeds, 141–146. - - =Ornamental grasses=, 5. - Nine-foot bed of, 16. - On lawns recommended, 16. - - =Ornithogalum arabicum=, 192. - Requires high temperature, 194. - - =Ostrich Feather Aster=, 99. - - =Otaheite Orange=, 58. - - =Oxalis, Summer-blooming=— - Advantage of precocity of growth, 154. - Bermuda, 195. - Desirable for borders, 154. - Extensively grown in parks and public gardens, 154. - Good substitute for other plants that have failed to come up, 154. - Hints on raising, 195. - How to buy and set, 154. - Most easily raised of all bulbous plants, 154. - Rapid growth of, 154. - - - P - - =Pæonia.= See Peony. - - =Pansies=, 10, 18, 23, 25, 34, 37, 41, 44, 53, 67, 81, 84, 85, 112–118, - 205, 206, 253. - Aurora, 116. - Best place for planting, 10. - Cold weather, care of, during, 112, 113. - Daily care of, 253. - Fungoid disease and mildew, remedy for, 115. - Germination, period of, 112. - Giant Cassier, 116. - Giant Trimardeau, 216. - How to carry Pansy bed through winter, 116, 117. - How to raise sturdy plants, 112. - In the cold-frame, 37. - Planting, best place for, 115. - Seeds, fresh, every year for best varieties, 116. - Snow Queen, 116. - Soot as a fertiliser for, 25. - Sowing in cold-frame or hotbed, 112. - Special mixtures of seeds, 116. - Spring, treatment of roots in the, 113. - Time for sowing seed, 112. - Transplanting, 113. - Watering beds of, 114. - - =Pansy-bed=, the, 112–119. - Proper soil for, 18. - - =Pansy-seed=— - Should be grown by a specialist, 44. - The best is the cheapest, 41. - - =Papa Canna=, 15. - - =Paper White Narcissus=, 192. - - =Paris green=, 100, 170, 172, 177, 247, 249. - - =Paris green solution=, 250. - - =Parti-coloured beds of flowers=, arrangement of, 11. - - =Pelargonium Geraniums=— - Cuttings of, for new plants, 77. - Time for blooming, 77. - Very satisfactory when raised from seed, 77. - - =Pennisetum Ruppellianum=, 16. - - =Peonies=, 9, 11, 179, 200, 201, 204, 206. - Best soil and location for, 200. - Raised beds of, 11. - - =Peony Aster=, 99. - - =Peony-beds=, should be heavily mulched with manure in the fall, 201. - - =Perennial-beds=, must be well rounded up, 204. - - =Perennials=, benefited by removal of withered flowers, 46. - Hardy, grouping of, in flowerbeds, 10. - - =Perfection Aster=, 99. - - =Perpetuals=, hardy, 176. - - =Petunias=, 9, 35, 42, 45, 58, 83–85, 93, 96, 117. - Bloom freely in the house, 85. - Burpee’s Defiance, 84. - Double variety more suitable for pots, vases, and bedding out, 84. - Giant of California, 84. - Growing plants of, from seed, 45. - How to distinguish the finer varieties, 85. - How to sow seed of, 35. - Improvement in growth of, the last few years, 83. - Instructions for raising, 84. - Miranda, 84. - Poor or inferior plants should be removed, 85. - Potting and caring for, 85. - Young plants require great care, 84. - - =Phacelia=, 96. - - =Phlox Drummondi=, 11, 16, 42, 91, 96, 119. - Beds of, 11. - Border of dwarf variety, 119. - Germination of seed, 119. - - =Phlox subulata=, border plants of, 8. - - =Pinks=, grow best from self-sown seed, 45. - - =Plant enemies=, increase of, 246, 247. - - =Plant growing=, failures in, 58. - - =Plant lice=, or green fly, remedies for, 248. - - =Plantain Lily=, 201. - - =Planting seed=, 34–36. - - =Plants=— - Blooming season of various, 234–244. - For winter blooming should not be exposed to chilly nights, 208. - How to treat when frozen, 213. - Learning to keep, 254. - Method of shifting and bedding out, 51. - Need room to develop, 253. - No more should be raised than there is room for, 253. - Proper breathing of, 211. - Protecting from cold and sun, 204, 205. - Protection for tall ones, 206. - Received by mail, treatment of, before being put in window-boxes, 95. - Saving seed and giving away cuttings, 254. - Should have room to breathe and grow, 208. - Sudden change of temperature should be avoided, 212. - Support should be given to such as need it, 212. - Transplantation of, in the fall, 196. - Treatment of, for winter blooming, 51. - Wintering of, 196. - - =Poa=, an edible food of the Sandwich Islands, 149. - - =Pond Lily=, 169. - - =Poeticus Narcissus=, 191. - - =Poeticus ornatus Narcissus=, 191. - - =Polyanthus=, 191. - - =Poppies=, 44, 117–119, 170. - Hunnemannia fumariæfolia, 118. - Iceland, 118. - Oriental, 118. - Shirley, 117. - Should not be grown too closely, 118. - Value of seed from, 44. - - =Poppies, Water=, 170, 171. - Attractiveness of, 171. - - =Poppy-seed=, sowing in the Pansy-bed, 117. - - =Porches=, Thunbergias valuable for covering foundations of, 136. - - =Pot-bound plants=, how to remove, 57. - - =Potting=, hints on, 57, 58. - - =Potting-soil=, always keep ready for use, 40. - How to obtain, 21. - - =Primroses=, 63, 86, 87, 246. - Blooming time, 86. - General treatment of, 86. - Potting, 86. - Primula obconica grown in shallow dishes, 87. - Raising from seed, 87. - Receptacles for, 86. - Repeated shifting aids blooming, 86. - Root room necessary, 86. - - =Primula obconica=, 87. - - =Primulas=, 48, 58. - - =Princess Caroline Ageratum=, 101, 102. - - - Q - - =Queen Charlotte Cannas=, 15. - - =Queen of the North Antirrhinum=, 98. - - - R - - =Radicans Bignonia=, 139, 140. - - =Ragged Robin= (Viscaria), red, scented flower, 198. - - =Ramona Clematis=, 138. - - =Red Spider=, remedy for, 248. - - =Repotting=, meaning of term, 56. - - =Repotting house-plants in summer=, 40. - - =Rex Begonia=, 66. - - =Rhododendrons=, protection of, in Northern winters, 206. - - =Ricinus= (Castor-oil Plant), 4, 5, 14, 15, 18, 29, 35, 46, 121, 144, - 150, 200. - Beds of, 5. - Good background for low shrubs, 144. - In flower-beds, 14, 15. - Most tropical looking plant in cultivation, 144. - Position of, in the hotbed, 35. - Proper soil for, 18. - Seed of, 46. - Seeds should be started in house pots, 144. - Soil must be heavily manured and well watered, 144. - Transplanting, 144. - Zanzibar varieties best, 144. - - =Rockwork=, Thunbergias valuable for covering, 136. - - =Roi des Belges=, a red Hyacinth, 192. - - =Rose=, the, need of constant care of, 247. - - =Rose-bed=, care of the Summer, 173–178. - Choice of plants for the, 178. - Cutting and pruning, 175, 176. - Hardy Perpetuals, caring for, 176. - Insect enemies of Roses, 176, 177. - Manuring, 175. - Planting the bed, 175. - Soil suitable for, 175. - Sunny, protected situation necessary, 175. - Treatment of Roses that refuse to bloom, 176. - - =Rose-bug=, destruction of, 249. - - =Rose-bugs and beetles=, remedy for, 177. - - =Rose Campion= (Lychnis), herbaceous perennial, 198. - - =Rose-cuttings=, handling of, 59. - - =Rose-garden=, design for, 12, 13. - - =Rose-hopper or thrips=, on Rose leaves, remedy for, 177, 248. - - =Rose of Sharon= (Althea)— - Method of blooming, 202. - Winter care of young and old trees, 202. - - =Rose-slugs=, how to get rid of, 177, 248. - - =Rose, June=, 173, 174. - Cultivation and pruning of, 173, 174. - Hardy climbers, treatment of, 174. - Insects, a pest to, 176. - Labor of caring for, objectionable to some, 173. - Mulching in the fall, 174. - New wood should be encouraged, 174. - Thorniness of, 173. - Winter protection of, 174. - - =Rose, Tea=, 174, 175. - Excellent for summer Rose-bed, 174. - Insects, generally free from, 176. - Mildew, how to avoid and remedy for, 177. - Potting, 175. - Transplanting into open ground, 175. - - =Roses=, 3, 17, 18, 23, 25, 27, 37, 39, 58, 59, 61, 173–178, 252. - American Beauty, 178. - Bride, 178. - Climbing, winter protection of, 204. - Gruss an Teplitz, 178. - Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 178. - Kept in house in winter, how to keep free from pests and insects, - 178. - Mrs. Robert Perry, 178. - North winds disastrous to, 3. - Proper soil for, 17. - Soot a good fertiliser for, 25. - Virginia R. Coxe, 178. - - =Rubber gloves for garden work=, 250. - - =Rubber-plants=, rooting and care of, 60. - - =Rubber sprinklers=, indispensable for watering hanging-baskets, 214. - - =Rudbeckia=, 197. - - =Ruffled Giant Petunia=, 84. - - - S - - =S. A. Nutt Geranium=, for south and west window-boxes, 91. - - =St. John’s Wort= (Hypericum Moserianum), a perennial, 197. - - =Salt pork=, for keeping moles from Iris roots, 200. - - =Salvia= (Flowering Sage), 5, 14, 15, 18, 29, 46, 120. - Bonfire, 121. - Clara Bedman, 121. - Desirable for bedding purposes, 120. - Do well in partial shade, 120. - Most congenial soil, 120. - Root readily in wet sand, 121. - Scarlet, 14, 15. - Seed germination, 121. - Splendens, 5, 121. - Subject to red spider in the house, 120. - When to start seed, 120. - White-flowered variety, 121. - - =Salvia patens=, 121. - Seldom seen in gardens, 122. - Wonderful blue shade of, 122. - - =Salvias=— - Proper soil for, 18. - Seed freely, 46. - - =San Salvador Cobæa=, 130. - - =Sand=, white or grey, best for potting, 21. - - =Sand-box=, the, 38–40. - A fascinating spot, 39. - How to make one, 38. - Summer storage of plants in, 38. - - =Saxatile, golden=, 122. - Desirable for edging or rockwork, 122. - - =Scilla=, 189, 190, 192, 193. - - =Scillas and Crocuses=— - A pretty way to grow, 190. - Beds of, 189. - Lengthening of flower-stems, 190. - Protection of, 189. - - =Screens for the hotbed=, 36. - - =Scythe-boxes make good window-boxes=, 94. - - =Seed=, various annuals from, 98–111. - - =Seedlings=, blossom in the natural course, 62. - - =Seed-planting=, 34–36. - - =Seeds=, coarse varieties, how to sow, 49. - Fine varieties should be sown broadcast, 49. - House treatment of some fine varieties, 48. - Labelling and storing, 47. - Need little light while germinating, 49. - Protection of, in their early stages, 30. - Purchasing of, 41–47. - Should be gathered when ripe, 47. - Starting in flats, 48–52. - Temperature and period of germination, 32. - Time for germination of, 228–232. - Uselessness of buying cheap varieties of, 42. - Vitality of some kinds of, 42. - What kinds to save, 43, 44. - Where to buy, 42. - Where to plant coarse, 35. - - =September=, shrubs, plants, and bulbs that bloom during, 242, 243. - - =Setaria magna=, 16. - - =Shade-loving plants=, an excellent place for, 245, 246. - - =Sheep manure=, desirable for house-plants, 23. - - =Shell Flowers=, 153. - - =Shelves for flowers in winter=, 208. - Should be securely fastened, 209. - - =Shelter=, proper, for flowers, 3. - - “=Shifting=,” meaning of term, 56. - - =Shirley Poppies in the Pansy-bed=, 117. - - =Shrubbery=, planning a, 12. - - =Shrubs=, blooming season of, 234–244. - Spring-planted, should be moved when dormant, 196, 197. - - =Shrubs and plants=, hardy, for fall planting, 196. - - =Sir Watkin Narcissus=, or Giant Welshman, 191, 192. - - =Skirts=, suitable, for working in the garden, 257. - - =Slop-water should not be used for foliage plants=, 27. - - =Snapdragon.= See Antirrhinums. - - =Snow Queen Pansy=, 116. - Cost of seed of, 42. - - =Snowdrops=, a pretty way to grow, 190, 191. - - =Soapsuds a good fertiliser=, 27. - - =Sod=, preparing garden, 8. - - =Sod borders=, involve too much care in flower-beds, 9. - - =Soil=, preparation of, for the flower-garden, 7. - Replacing, difficulties of, 20. - Unsuitable, cause of many failures in raising plants, 19. - - =Soils=, 17–22. - - =Solanum Jasminoides=, 93. - - =Soot as a fertiliser for flowers=, 25. - - =South slope=, the ideal situation for a garden, 3. - - =Southern exposure=, combination of flowers suitable for window-boxes, - 91, 92. - - =Souvenir de Charles Turner Geranium=, 91. - - =Spade=, results secured by use of, in making flower-beds, 7. - - =Spading flower-beds=, 8. - - =Speciosum Lilies=, exceeding beauty of, 181. - - =Speciosum roseum Lily=, 181. - - =Speciosum rubrum Lily=, 181. - - =Sphagnum moss=, for wrapping Rubber-plants’ roots in, 60. - - =Spiræa filipendula=, 198. - - =Spiræa Japonica=, 198. - - =Spiræas=— - Anthony Waterer, 197. - Desirable for fall or spring planting, 196. - Filipendula, 197. - Garden, 197. - Mealy bug on, 248. - Van de Houttei, 197. - - =Spring=, treatment of roots and seeds in the, 113, 196. - - =Spring-planted shrubs=, 196. - - =Stakes for house-plants=, 40. - - =Stocking window-boxes=, 95. - - =Subsoil=, removing for flowerbeds, 7. - - =Sulpho-tobacco soap=, a remedy for plant lice, 248. - - =Sulphur=, for mildew on Pansies, 115. - Flower of, for dusting over rose-leaves to prevent mildew, 177. - - =Summer=, shrubs, plants and vines that bloom all the, 243, 244. - - =Sunflower=, California, 197. - - =Sunlight Nasturtium=, 111. - - =Sun-loving plants=, care of, 211. - - =Supports for window-boxes=, how to make, 94, 95. - - =Surface-soil=, treatment of, for flower-beds, 7. - - =Swanley Blue Ageratum=, 102. - - =Sweet Alyssum=, 5, 9, 14, 46, 96, 121, 122. - Little Gem, edging for flowerbeds, 5, 14. - Sows its own seed, 46. - - =Sweet-peas=, 46, 122–124, 252, 253. - Bewildering variety of, 124. - Culture of, 122. - Daily care of, 253. - Habit of climbing, 123. - Must not be permitted to seed, 46. - Planting, 122. - Sowing seed of, best time for, 122. - Watering, method of, 123. - Wire supports necessary for growth, 123. - - - T - - =Tea-roses=, 37. - Freer from insects than June Roses, 176. - In the cold-frame, 37. - - =Temperature=, a sudden change of, should be avoided with flowers, 212. - - =Thawing out frozen plants=, 213. - - =Thermometer=, necessary for the hotbed, 35. - - =Thunbergia= (Black-eyed Susan), 46, 47, 90, 92, 93, 136. - Admirable for basket or bracket plants in winter, 136. - Grow freely from seed, 136. - Red spider attacks, 136. - Requires sunny situation, 136. - Seed may be gathered from, 46. - Valuable for covering low trellises, 136. - - =Tigridias=, beautiful in colour, 153. - Ephemeral flowers of, 153. - Peculiar leaf of, 153, 154. - Potting and bedding out, 153. - - =Tobacco=, use of, for killing plant-lice, 248. - - =Tom Thumb Ageratum=, desirable for edgings, 101. - - =Tools necessary for the successful gardener=, 245. - - =Top-soil=, removal of, in making flower-beds, 7. - - =Transplanting=, instructions for, 54. - Seedlings, 50. - The proper time for, 54. - - =Transplanting and repotting=, 53. - - =Trailing Fuchsia=, 91. - - =Trapping moles in Iris-beds=, 200. - - =Trees=, blooming season of, 234–244. - - =Trellises=, Thunbergias valuable for covering, 136. - - =Trumpet Vine=, 139. - - =Tuberoses=, do well in Gladiola-bed, 164. - Double Pearl, blooms but once, 163, 164. - Must be started in a warm place, 163. - Plenty of water required, 163. - Potting, 163. - - =Tulips=, 188, 189, 193. - Neglected beds of, 189. - Planting, distance and depth for, 188. - Plants of same height and season should be set together, 189. - Storing away, 189. - - =Twelve-foot flower-beds=, 14, 15. - - - U - - =Umbrella-plants=, 60, 73, 74, 168. - How to start root, 60. - - =Unsuitable soil=, cause of many failures in raising plants, 19. - - =Urns=, Thunbergias valuable for, 136. - - - V - - =Van Houttei=, white Spiræa, 197. - - =Verbenas=, 44, 45, 92, 96, 124–127. - Colours should be kept separate, 124. - Enjoy rockwork, 125. - Thrive in any good soil, 125. - Treatment of seed before planting, 124. - - =Vernon Begonia=, 66. - - =Vincas= (Periwinkles), 15, 16, 46, 94, 125. - As border for Canna-bed, 125. - Bloom more freely if not allowed to seed, 46. - Foliage and flowers, colour and texture of, 125. - Moisture, fair amount of, necessary, 126. - White-flowered, 15, 16. - Worthy extensive cultivation, 125. - - =Vines=, 128–140. - Prejudice against, 128. - Time for planting, 53. - Training of, over sides of the sand-box, 39. - Walls indestructible when covered with, 128. - - =Violets=, 23, 37. - Dog-tooth, 191. - Protection of cold-frame for, 37, 38. - - =Virginia Creeper=, 128. - - =Virginia R. Coxe Rose=, 178. - - =Virgin’s Bower=, 137. - - =Viscaria= (Ragged Robin), a scented garden flower, 198. - - =Von Sion Narcissus=, 191, 192. - - =Vulcan Begonia=, 66. - - - W - - =Walks=, garden, construction of, 9. - - =Washingtonianum Lily=, 182. - - =Water gardens=, 104. - - =Water Hyacinths=, 170. - - =Water=, standing, injures roots of all plants, 204. - - =Water-supply for elevated bed=, 5. - - =Watering seeds in flats=, 50. - - =Watering soil in boxes=, 49. - - =Watering-pot=, should not be used in sowing seed, 36. - - =Weeping Lantana=, 81, 83. - See, also, Lantana. - - =White=, the most valuable colour in the garden, 11. - - =Wild Cucumber=, 90, 91, 93, 96, 132, 252. - A beautiful background for Geraniums in the window-box, 90. - - =Willow, Kilmarnock=, 140. - - =Window-boxes, inside=, best support for, 94. - Cheap and available boxes, 95, 96. - Combination of plants suitable for a southern exposure, 91, 92; - for eastern exposure, 92, 93; - for northern exposure, 93, 94. - Economical arrangement of, 96. - Geraniums best for south or west boxes, 91. - How to care for and raise flowers in, 97. - Longevity of, 96. - Plants in, require watering every day, 253. - Preserving during winter, 95. - Quantity of plants necessary for, 89, 90. - Stocking, 95. - Two boxes necessary for the season, 90. - - =Window-boxes, outside=, 88–97. - Add to cheerfulness of rooms, 88. - Plants best suited to the light should be selected for, 88. - Proper construction of, 89. - Suitable plants for, 88. - Supply of water necessary, 89. - - =Window-sashes=, old, for use in making hotbeds, 32. - - =Winter Aconite=, 191. - - =Winter=, care of old and young trees in the, 202. - - =Winter protection of flowers and shrubs=, 203–207. - - =Wire netting=, judicious use of, in the flower garden, 251. - For Moles, 199. - - =Wood Hyacinths=, 191. - - =Wooden frames=, best results from, as winter protectors, 203. - - =Work-table=, indispensable in cultivating a garden, 39. - - =Worthless seeds=, 42. - - - Z - - =Zanzibar varieties of Ricinus=, best for cultivation, 144. - - =Zonale Geraniums=, time for blooming, 77. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE COUNTRY HOME LIBRARY - - - _VOL. 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