diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/54591-h')
49 files changed, 0 insertions, 5623 deletions
diff --git a/old/54591-h/54591-h.htm b/old/54591-h/54591-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 8f88660..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/54591-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5623 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> - <title>An English Girl in Japan, by Ella M. Hart Bennett</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - body { margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 10%; } - h1 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.4em; } - h2 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.2em; } - .pageno { right: 1%; font-size: x-small; background-color: inherit; color: silver; - text-indent: 0em; text-align: right; position: absolute; - border: thin solid silver; padding: .1em .2em; font-style: normal; - font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; } - p { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; text-align: justify; } - sup { vertical-align: top; font-size: 0.6em; } - .fss { font-size: 75%; } - .sc { font-variant: small-caps; } - .large { font-size: large; } - .xxlarge { font-size: xx-large; } - .small { font-size: small; } - .lg-container-b { text-align: center; } - @media handheld { .lg-container-b { clear: both; } } - .linegroup { display: inline-block; text-align: left; } - @media handheld { .linegroup { display: block; margin-left: 1.5em; } } - .linegroup .group { margin: 1em auto; } - .linegroup .line { text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em; } - div.linegroup > :first-child { margin-top: 0; } - .linegroup .in22 { padding-left: 14.0em; } - div.footnote > :first-child { margin-top: 1em; } - div.footnote p { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: 0.0em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - div.pbb { page-break-before: always; } - hr.pb { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-bottom: 1em; } - @media handheld { hr.pb { display: none; } } - .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } - .figcenter { clear: both; max-width: 100%; margin: 2em auto; text-align: center; } - div.figcenter p { text-align: center; text-indent: 0; } - .figcenter img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; } - .id001 { width:60%; } - .id002 { width:100px; } - .id003 { width:75%; } - .id004 { width:90%; } - .id005 { width:425px; } - .id006 { width:270px; } - .id007 { width:500px; } - .id008 { width:225px; } - .id009 { width:300px; } - .id011 { width:275px; } - .id012 { width:400px; } - .id013 { width:298px; } - .id014 { width:300px; } - .id015 { width:326px; } - .id016 { width:275px; } - .id017 { width:300px; } - .id018 { width:166px; } - @media handheld { .id001 { margin-left:20%; width:60%; } } - @media handheld { .id002 { margin-left:40%; width:20%; } } - @media handheld { .id003 { margin-left:12%; width:75%; } } - @media handheld { .id004 { margin-left:5%; width:90%; } } - @media handheld { .id005 { margin-left:10%; width:80%; } } - @media handheld { .id006 { margin-left:20%; width:60%; } } - @media handheld { .id007 { margin-left:5%; width:90%; } } - @media handheld { .id008 { margin-left:20%; width:60%; } } - @media handheld { .id009 { margin-left:20%; width:60%; } } - @media handheld { .id011 { margin-left:22%; width:55%; } } - @media handheld { .id012 { margin-left:10%; width:80%; } } - @media handheld { .id013 { margin-left:22%; width:55%; } } - @media handheld { .id014 { margin-left:30%; width:40%; } } - @media handheld { .id015 { margin-left:20%; width:60%; } } - @media handheld { .id016 { margin-left:30%; width:40%; } } - @media handheld { .id017 { margin-left:5%; width:90%; } } - @media handheld { .id018 { margin-left:33%; width:33%; } } - .ic004 { width:100%; } - .ic010 { width:120%; margin-left:-10%; margin-right:-10%; } - .ig001 { width:100%; } - .table0 { margin: auto; margin-top: 2em; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 0%; - width: 100%; } - .table1 { margin: auto; width: 85%; } - .table2 { margin: auto; width: 100%; } - .table3 { margin: auto; width: 90%; } - .nf-center { text-align: center; } - .nf-center-c0 { text-align: left; margin: 0.5em 0; } - img.drop-capi { float: left; margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; position: relative; z-index: 1; } - p.drop-capi0_9 { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.0em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - p.drop-capi1_0 { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.0em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - p.drop-capi0_9:first-letter { color: transparent; visibility: hidden; - margin-left: -0.9em; } - p.drop-capi1_0:first-letter { color: transparent; visibility: hidden; - margin-left: -1.0em; } - @media handheld { - img.drop-capi { display: none; visibility: hidden; } - p.drop-capi0_9:first-letter { color: inherit; visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0em; } - p.drop-capi1_0:first-letter { color: inherit; visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0em; } - } - .c000 { margin-top: 1em; } - .c001 { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: 0.0em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - .c002 { margin-top: 4em; } - .c003 { width: 100%; text-align:center; margin:auto; } - .c004 { text-align:right } - .c005 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 1em; } - .c006 { margin-top: 8em; } - .c007 { margin-top: 1em; font-size: 95%; } - .c008 { page-break-before:auto; margin-top: 4em; } - .c009 { margin-top: 2em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - .c010 { text-align: right; } - .c011 { text-align: center; } - .c012 { vertical-align: top; text-align: justify; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; } - .c013 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } - .c014 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c015 { margin-left: 5.56%; text-indent: -5.56%; margin-top: 2em; font-size: 95%; - margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - .c016 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 0.8em; - margin-bottom: 0.8em; margin-left: 35%; margin-right: 35%; width: 30%; } - .c017 { text-decoration: none; } - .c018 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; width: 10%; margin-left: 0; - margin-top: 1em; text-align: left; } - .c019 { margin-top: 1em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - .c020 { vertical-align: top; text-align: center; padding-right: 1em; } - .c021 { margin-top: 2em; font-size: 95%; } - .c022 { margin-top: 4em; font-size: 95%; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; } - .c023 { font-size: 95%; } - .c024 { font-size: 95%; text-indent: 1em; margin-top: 0.0em; margin-bottom: 0.0em; - } - .c025 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 17%; width: 66%; margin-right: 17%; } - .c026 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; padding-right: 1em; } - .c027 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; } - a:link { text-decoration: none; } - div.tnotes { padding-left:1em;padding-right:1em;background-color:#E3E4FA; - border:1px solid silver; margin:1em 5% 0 5%; text-align: justify; } - .blackletter { font-family: "Old English Text MT", Gothic, serif; } - .epubonly {visibility: hidden; display: none; } - @media handheld { .epubonly { visibility: visible; display: inline; } } - .htmlonly {visibility: visible; display: inline; } - @media handheld { .htmlonly { visibility: hidden; display: none; } } - div.float-left { float: left; clear: both; width: 33%; } - .plate { width: 60%; } - .column-container { margin: auto; clear: both; } - .left { display: inline-block; text-align: left; vertical-align: bottom; - width:49%; } - .right { display: inline-block; text-align: right; vertical-align: top; width:49%; - } - ins.correction { text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray; } - .quote { font-size: 95%; margin-top: 1.0em; margin-bottom: 1.0em; } - .linegroup .group { margin: 0em auto; } - </style> - </head> -<body> -<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 54591 ***</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> -<div class='tnotes'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>Transcriber’s Note:</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='htmlonly'> - -<p class='c001'>Illustrations have been moved slightly to avoid falling within -paragraphs. The full-page illustrations with a blank verso -participated in pagination. These pages have been removed, -and page numbers are skipped.</p> - -</div> -<div class='epubonly'> - -<p class='c001'>Illustrations have been moved slightly to avoid falling within -paragraphs. Each chapter begins with an illustrated 'drop-cap' -including the first letter of the chapter. With the exception -of Chapter XI, these are not reproduced in this version. The -illustration for Chapter XI has a caption, and is mentioned -in the list of illustrations, and so has been retained in -a slightly altered form.</p> - -</div> - -<p class='c001'>The few footnotes have been moved to the end of paragraph in which -they are referenced.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Minor errors, attributable to the printer, have been corrected. Please -see the transcriber’s <a href='#endnote'>note</a> at the end of this text -for details regarding the handling of any textual issues encountered -during its preparation.</p> - -<div class='epubonly'> - -<p class='c001'>Corrections appear as hyperlinks to the endnote’s errata table where -the original text is given, in context, and brief note of the -change.</p> - -</div> -<div class='htmlonly'> - -<p class='c001'>Corrections appear as <ins class='correction' title='original'>underlined</ins> word or phrase. If the -cursor is placed over the phrase, the original text appears in a popup -tool-tip. The endnote’s errata table will provide a brief explanation -of the change to be found at the indicated page and line of the original.</p> - -</div> - -<div class='htmlonly'> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='xxlarge'>AN ENGLISH GIRL IN JAPAN</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'><a id='frontis'></a></p> -<div class='figcenter plate'> -<img src='images/i_frontis.jpg' class='ig001' alt='' /> -<table class='c003' summary='caption'> -<colgroup> - <col width='70%' /> - <col width='30%' /> -</colgroup> -<tr><td> </td><td class='c004'><span class='small'>(<i>Page</i> 24.</span></td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2">A LITTLE NASAN APPEARED.</td></tr> -</table> -</div> - -<div> - <h1 class='c005'>AN ENGLISH GIRL <br /> IN JAPAN</h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c000'> - <div><span class='small'>BY</span></div> - <div><span class='large'>ELLA M. HART BENNETT</span></div> - <div class='c002'><i>SECOND EDITION</i></div> - <div class='c006'><span class="blackletter">Illustrated</span></div> - <div class='c006'>LONDON</div> - <div>WELLS GARDNER, DARTON & CO., LTD.</div> - <div>3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, E.C.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/i_a006.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><i>First Edition, May, 1904</i></div> - <div><i>Second Edition, June, 1906</i></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c006'> - <div>TO</div> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>MY FRIEND MARY</span></div> - <div class='c000'>A SOUVENIR</div> - <div class='c000'>OF MANY PLEASANT DAYS</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c007'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>‘Though wide the ocean now dividing us,</div> - <div class='line'>Ne’er let its waters separate our souls.’</div> - <div class='line in22'>(<em>Japanese quotation.</em>)</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c008'>PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The following sketches of life in Japan and the -voyage there and back are taken from a diary which -I kept during my travels.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Since writing my little book of personal reminiscences, -which, thanks to indulgent readers and kind -friends, is now republished in a second edition, many -and great changes have taken place in the Far East.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Japan has now become a great Power--not only -in the East, but also in the West. It is <em>little</em> Japan -no longer; or, rather, its greatness is now understood -and acknowledged by all the world. Western -civilization has taken a firm hold on the Japanese -people. They have been rapidly adopting, and, in -fact, improving on, Western methods, customs, and -manners. The fear of the globe-trotter of to-day is -whether he will be in time to see the Japan of his -dreams and of romance, before this great Western -wave of progress and reform has divested the Land -of the Rising Sun of its quaint originality and -fascinating charm.</p> -<div class='c010'>E. H. B.</div> -<p class='c001'>1906.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_I'>I</span> - <h2 class='c008'>PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The following sketches of life in Japan and the -voyage there and back are taken from a diary which -I kept during my travels.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As Japan and its wonderful little people have -come so much before the world during the last -few years, and especially at this time are one of the -chief factors in the crisis in the Far East, I thought -that these reminiscences and anecdotes taken from -real life might be of interest.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I am indebted to the editors of the <cite>Cornhill</cite>, -<cite>Sketch</cite>, <cite>Sunday</cite>, and the <cite>Buenos Aires Standard</cite> for -the reproduction of some of the following sketches.</p> - -<div class='c010'> ELLA HART BENNETT.</div> -<p class='c001'>1904.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xi'>xi</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='85%' /> -<col width='14%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER I</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>ON THE WAY</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'> </td> - <td class='c013'><span class='small'>PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>I start on my travels--A fair Theosophist--Life on an American liner--Arrival at New York--Delmonico’s---The Hotel Waldorf--Niagara Falls--Across the Lakes--The prairies--A quiet Sunday</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_1'>1–12</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER II</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>IN THE ROCKIES</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>First sight of the Rockies--Stay at Banff--Indians and salmon--Arrival at Vancouver--The <i>Empress of India</i>--Chinese passengers--The missing day--A court-martial--First sight of Japan</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_13'>13–22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER III</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>EARLY DAYS IN JAPAN</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>A new friend--A Japanese dinner--Japanese temples--An earthquake--A fire in Yokohama</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_23'>23–32</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IV</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>A JAPANESE HARROGATE</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xii'>xii</span>A trip to the Japanese Harrogate--A curious travelling companion--A Japanese inn--A mountain ride--At the sulphur springs--A sulphur bath--A night in a tea-house--Sad news</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_33'>33–50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER V</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>AN IMPERIAL GARDEN-PARTY</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Silk dresses and frock-coats--A disappointed Colonel--The Royal procession--The chrysanthemums--I am presented--A Japanese play--Japanese royal sport--The Mikado and his subjects</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_51'>51–65</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VI</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>JAPANESE LADIES</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Their habits and ways--Home life--The Honourable Bath--Count Ito and his wife--Old Japan--Loyalty to husbands--A mixed marriage--Curious customs--Japanese sayings</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_66'>66–82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VII</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>JAPANESE CHILDREN</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Boys and girls--Games--The Feast of Dolls--School life--The ‘Hina Matsuri’--The Feast of the Carp--The ‘Bon Matsuri,’ the festival for dead children</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_83'>83–97</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VIII</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>SERVANTS IN JAPAN</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Their politeness--Frequency of their baths--Always ready for a nap--Mrs. Peter Potts</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_98'>98–108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IX</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>SOME FESTIVALS AND A FUNERAL</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>The Imperial Silver Wedding--Parade of the troops--The wedding feast--The Chinese ball in Tokio--A gay assembly--A Royal funeral--Strange customs</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_109'>109–123</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xiii'>xiii</span>CHAPTER X</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>CHANG, MY CHOW</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>His first appearance--Adventures and mishaps--Companions in the Hospital--Chang goes to church--Facing the enemy</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_124'>124–140</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XI</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>FURTHER ADVENTURES OF CHANG</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>The tale of a tub--Sayonara--Board-ship acquaintance--Queer company</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_141'>141–163</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XII</td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='2'><span class='fss'>PAUL AND VIRGINIA</span></td></tr> - <tr><td colspan="2"> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Life on a tea-estate--My animal friends--Two brown bears--Brutus, the monkey--Always in mischief--The Brazilian macaw</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_164'>164–176</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_xv'>xv</span> - <h2 class='c008'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='63%' /> -<col width='22%' /> -<col width='14%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c012'> </td> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c013'><span class='small'>PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>A little Nasan appeared</td> - <td class='c014'><a href='#frontis'><em>Frontispiece</em></a></td> - <td class='c013'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>In the Heart of the Rockies</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b015'>15</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>‘Tum adain soone! sayonara!’</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b026'>26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>One of the Shinto Temples</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b027'>27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Great Bronze Buddha</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b028'>28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>We start for Kodzu</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b035'>35</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Idaka, the Guide</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b039'>39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Prepared for the Night</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b047'>47</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Our Invitation-cards were very large and thick</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b053'>53</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Gardens are very beautiful</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b057'>57</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Quaint Signboards in some of the Streets, Tokio: Butcher’s, Umbrella Shop</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b063'>63</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Quaint Signboards in some of the Streets, Tokio: Poultry and Egg Shop, Japanese Tailor</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b064'>64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>‘Many are distinctly pretty when young’</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b068'>68</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>A Japanese Lady of the Upper Class</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b069'>69</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>A Tea-house Veranda</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b072'>72</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>‘How picturesque they looked!’</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b084'>84</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Japanese Children</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b087'>87</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Japanese Servants</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b099'>99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>That Delightful Hotel in the Hills</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b102'>102</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Three Friends</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b125'>125</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Garden of the Little Tea-house</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b129'>129</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xvi'>xvi</span>The Kind Old ‘Isha-san’</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b133'>133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Little House in the Forest</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b137'>137</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Chang’s First Appearance</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b140'>140</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Yum-Yum and Dodo</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b141'>141</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Monastery in the Rock</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b143'>143</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Mystical ‘Fuji-Yama’</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b151'>151</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>The Lotus Flower of Japan</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b154'>154</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012' colspan='2'>Arara</td> - <td class='c013'><a href='#b173'>173</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='3'>Initials, Tailpieces, etc.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_a016.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span><span class='xxlarge'>An English Girl in Japan</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER I <br /> <span class='fss'>ON THE WAY</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>I start on my travels--A fair Theosophist--Life on an -American liner--Arrival at New York--Delmonico’s--The -Hotel Waldorf--Niagara Falls--Across the Lakes--The -prairies--A quiet Sunday.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b001.jpg' width='200' height='205' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -The visit to the Far East, -where my father had business -in Japan, was taken -when I was only eighteen. -Being an only child, I had -been his constant companion -since the death of -my mother nine years previously. -I was never sent to school, and, after a -succession of governesses, my education was put -into the hands of the old bachelor Rector of our -parish, whose ideas as to what a girl ought to know -were somewhat peculiar. However, in other ways -<span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>I had more practical knowledge of life than was -usual for one of my age, as my father discussed -subjects of all kinds with me freely; and I grew up -to take interest in topics of the day, in animal life -of all kinds, and in my garden, of which I was -very proud.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Until the last moment I feared something might -occur to prevent our going; and it seemed almost -too good to be true to think I was actually to see -the country from where my father had brought so -many beautiful curios on his former visit, and which -I had always heard spoken of as an earthly paradise.</p> - -<p class='c001'>However, the day of departure came at last, and -after many preparations and tearful farewells from -the two old servants, who were to keep house for us -during our absence, we started--two planet pilgrims -bound for the Land of the Rising Sun.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I have always disliked books of travel with dates -describing the day and hour when the writer did this -or that, and giving minute descriptions of food, -climate, feelings, etc. I don’t think it is in the least -amusing to read that on Monday, the 26th, the -heroine was seasick, and on the 30th, at 6 p.m., -was able to enjoy roast mutton and pudding. Or -that she landed on such a day at such a place, and -exactly how she spent each hour. I have decided -only to write about the events and experiences which -have most impressed me during my travels, and to -describe as well as I can the characteristics of the -people that I came across.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>We sailed from Southampton in the <em>Paris</em>, a huge -American liner of 12,000 tons, more like a floating -hotel than a ship. My first impressions of life on -board were not altogether enjoyable, as we started in -a gale, and I own to more than once wishing myself -back again in Old England. However, in a couple -of days the weather calmed down, and I soon -recovered my sea-legs, and was able once again to -enjoy life.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There were a good number of passengers of every -description and nationality on board--a theatrical -company, Mr. Carnegie (the millionaire), the late -Dr. Barnardo, Mrs. Annie Besant, a foreign Ambassador -and a Colonial Governor, besides many other -well-known people. Mrs. Besant was accompanied -by two Indian Mahatmas, who were the objects -of much interest. They spent the greater part of -their time together, reclining in long deck-chairs, -with pillows behind their heads, and covered up -to their chins with thick rugs. Sometimes they -lay for hours, hand in hand, with closed eyes; at -other times they talked earnestly in low tones. -One Indian was very short and fat, the other long -and thin, with snake-like movements and curious -piercing eyes. They had thick black hair down to -their shoulders, little red caps with tassels on their -heads, and long, rusty black frock-coats and white -trousers--a truly remarkable pair. I overheard the -fat one remark to Mrs. Besant that before they could -disintegrate and assume their astral shapes it was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>necessary to abstain from food for twelve hours, -when their bodies would be in a fit state to soar. -The fat little man must evidently have made up for -his abstinence at other times, judging from his portly -appearance. We were told that the trio were going -to lecture on Theosophy in Chicago, and, after some -little persuasion, Mrs. Besant consented to give a -lecture on board. Over three hundred of the -passengers assembled in the saloon, and the fair -Theosophist held us fascinated for more than an hour. -She spoke very quietly, but with intense earnestness, -in a rich, deep voice, with hardly a moment’s pause. -The subject was evolution, and the manner in which -the soul passes from one body to another, either -getting higher and more spiritual, or deteriorating -and becoming more animal.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One of the audience got up and asked for the -proofs of Buddhism being superior to other religions, -others followed suit, and the discussion became -somewhat heated, until the chairman, Mr. Carnegie, -restored order by saying that we were not at a -debating society, but that Mrs. Besant having been -persuaded to speak for our pleasure and entertainment, -he thought the least we could do was to listen -with respectful attention, if not agreeing with the -subject in question. (Loud applause.)</p> - -<p class='c001'>The remainder of the voyage passed in the -usual way--sports, tournaments, concerts, the daily -lottery on the run--the prize number being sometimes -worth between thirty and forty pounds. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>Various other amusements were arranged by enterprising -passengers and officers of the ship.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We were fortunate in arriving at New York up to -time--in five days and a half--as the week before -the mails had been delayed by a severe cyclone, from -the effects of which New York was still suffering. -On landing at the Custom House the scene of confusion -baffled description. We luckily possessed a -pass, so had not to open our trunks, but it seemed -hours before our thirty-five boxes and packages were -collected together. Meanwhile, I sat waiting on one -of my boxes until my patience was quite exhausted.</p> - -<p class='c001'>My father had engaged rooms at the Hotel -Waldorf, where we found a most charming suite -had been reserved for us. Each set of rooms in the -hotel is furnished in a different style--one Indian, -one Japanese, another Egyptian, and a special honeymoon -suite, all pink, blue, and Cupids. This hotel--probably -the most luxurious in the world--was -built by Mr. Astor, the millionaire, costing £400,000, -and £200,000 to furnish. The State-rooms, fitted -up for the Prince of Wales, who never went there -after all, are magnificent. The walls are hung with -Gobelin tapestry, and all the dinner-service is of -solid silver. I was particularly fascinated with the -winter garden, which resembles a huge conservatory, -with fountains, palms, and little tables dotted about. -A string band played there every evening, and I saw -a number of smartly-dressed American women and -girls, as well as men, enjoying their favourite American -<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>drinks. I was not content until I had sampled a -‘corpse reviver,’ drinking it through a long straw, but -I cannot say the result was altogether satisfactory.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Everything about New York interested me immensely -after the quiet country life I had led at -home. The crowds in the streets, the bustle, the -electric-cars and overhead railways, were at first -bewildering. We were given a box at the Opera -Comique to see ‘Panjandrum,’ and there I saw -several American society beauties. The girls reminded -me much of Dana Gibson’s charming -drawings. The men seemed insignificant in comparison; -but it is said they make ideal husbands, -which is an important consideration.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After the theatre we went to a ‘roof garden,’ going -up by lift to the top of a large building, and through -a door on to the roof. This had been converted -into a Café Chantant--plants, chairs, a small stage, -and a restaurant, all lit up with little coloured lamps. -It was very amusing, and a delightful way of spending -a hot evening, as, although the end of September, -the weather in New York was still sultry.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Before returning to the hotel, my father took me -to Delmonico’s, the famous New York restaurant, -where we had an excellent supper, beginning with -hot, soft-shell crabs--a very favourite dish in America. -They are just like our crabs, but the shells are quite -soft and crisp, and one eats shell, legs, and all. -Mrs. Besant and her two Mahatmas were sitting at -a table near us. They had evidently no immediate -<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>intention of assuming their astral shapes, to judge -by the number of dishes which were placed before -them and were carried away empty. A precocious -little American girl of about ten was having supper -with her ‘poppa’ and ‘momma’ at the table next to us. -Between the intervals of eating she placed her elbows -on the table, brandishing aloft her knife and fork, -and made comments on the people round in a loud, -nasal voice. After some especially indiscreet remark -about the long, thin Indian, who turned and looked -at her with a melancholy gleam in his snake-like -eye, ‘momma’ exclaimed in equally strident tones: -‘I guess, Jemima, you had better keep your remarks -to your own <em>in</em>side, and not make them public, or -you’ll get yourself <em>dis</em>liked--say?’ For a few moments -Jemima remained silent, but soon began -again.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next morning I was awakened to find a negro -standing by my bedside with a tray in his hands. -He stood motionless in an attitude of attention, his -feet well turned out, a broad grin showing his -white teeth, apparently awaiting my commands. -After receiving my orders, he departed with another -low bow, still smiling. Most of the house-work is -done in America by negroes, who are very quick -and willing.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After three delightful but most fatiguing days in -New York, spent in sight-seeing, we left by the night -train for Niagara. I shall never forget my first -impressions of those wonderful Falls, which even -<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>exceeded my expectations, they are so indescribably -beautiful and impressive.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After lunch at the hotel where we were to stay the -night, we walked to various points on the American -side, and at each the view seemed more beautiful -than the last. The Niagara River divides and -forms three islands. On one side are the American -Falls; on the other, over a large suspension-bridge, -are the Canadian Horseshoe Falls. I persuaded my -father to take me down under the latter. We were -first both arrayed in a complete set of oilskins--coat, -long boots, and pointed hood--and presented most -comical figures. A guide led the way, as the path in -places was very steep and slippery. At one spot the -water poured down on us like a shower-bath, and it -required some strength of mind not to turn back; -but when we had once started we were determined to -see all. We came to a tunnel, lighted by lanterns, -where the water dripped from the roof and walls, -forming deep puddles, through which we plunged; -and I was glad to find myself in the daylight again, -safe and sound. The sunshine on the water produced -a rainbow at both Falls--a most beautiful -sight on the white foam.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Almost more impressive, if possible, than the Falls -are the whirlpool rapids, which we visited next -morning--the place where Captain Webb was -drowned, and where only lately a foolhardy woman -lost her life attempting to cross in a cask. The cask -reached its destination safely, after some hours’ -<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>buffeting with the current, but when opened, the -woman was found dead.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I can only liken the scene to a tremendous storm -on a rocky coast, as the waves dashed over the rocks, -throwing up foam and spray high into the air, whilst -the thunder of the water was deafening. The cliffs -on either side of the river were covered with grass -and trees growing to the water’s edge, calm and -peaceful--a striking contrast to the Rapids and their -ceaseless tumult.</p> - -<p class='c001'>From Niagara we went by train and boat to -Toronto. On our arrival at the hotel we found five -reporters sitting in the hall awaiting us, ready to -pounce on my father, who, being well known in the -literary world, was doomed to be victimized. In -vain did my unfortunate parent remind them it was -past nine o’clock, that we had had no dinner, and -having only that evening made our first acquaintance -with the delights of Canada, it was impossible fully -to do justice either to himself or the country. All -was of no avail; a long string of questions had to -be answered before we were permitted to depart in -peace, and the next morning in all the leading papers -appeared wonderful and totally untrue accounts of -our family history, appearance, and sentiments.</p> - -<p class='c001'>From Owen Sound we went by steamboat across -Lake Huron and Lake Superior to Port William, -which is in connection with the Canadian-Pacific -Railway. The lake scenery is very beautiful, and -was a pleasant change after the dusty train. We -<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>were three hours passing through the lock which -divides the two lakes. As the steamboats are run -on strictly temperance principles, and no wine or -spirit of any description allowed on board--although -we were fed with such dainties as frogs’ legs and -soft-shell crab--the excitement was great on seeing -a little shanty by the lock where home-brewed beer -could be obtained. There was a frantic rush on -shore, and the little inn must have reaped a harvest -that day. Whilst waiting at the lock I was much -interested in seeing large quantities of timber floating -over the rapids, having come downstream hundreds -of miles from the Canadian forests. The wood is -caught by huge nets made of chains, and just by the -side of the lock is a storage depot, where the timber -is collected and cut into planks. We had some -excellent lake trout for dinner, and in the evening -watched the northern lights, which illuminated the -sky far into the night.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next morning we left Port William, a quaint -little town which had only been in existence three -years, but already boasted of a church and good -shops and houses, and started westward on our four -days’ train journey to Vancouver. During the first -twenty-four hours we passed through the prairies, a -vast stretch of yellow plain, with its deep purple -shadows, looking terribly desolate, but yet fascinating -in its loneliness. Here and there were prairie fires--some -still smouldering, others which had left only -their charred and blackened marks behind them. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>We passed many little settlements and farms--one -farm was a hundred miles in size--and an immense -quantity of wheat is grown in this district. At each -station are huge elevators, and the grain is sucked up -into them through tubes by means of compressed air -at marvellous rapidity. It was harvest-time when -we passed, but, being Sunday, none of the men were -at work. It seemed quite pathetic to see lines of -buggies and cars waiting outside some of the little -settlement churches, and as we passed we saw many -of the settlers riding and driving to and from service. -Some must have come very long distances. At one -place, far away from any dwelling, there was a little -cemetery--just a dozen white stones and one little -cross standing out against the sky--only divided by -a rough wooden rail from the rest of the prairie. In -winter the country is covered with snow to a depth -of from twenty to thirty feet, and the occupants of -the farms have to dig their way out, leaving only -the front-door exposed. We saw large herds of -cattle and horses, but the buffalo is almost extinct. -He, as well as the Indian, seems to disappear as -civilization advances.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There are still some Indians left, however, and -we passed several encampments. Their wigwams -looked more picturesque than comfortable, composed -of mud and sticks. The few specimens we saw -were miserable-looking creatures. The women’s -cheeks were painted a bright brick-red, long matted -hair hung over their shoulders, and their costumes -<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>consisted of the most extraordinary collection of old -rags and finery imaginable. They seemed quite -harmless, but were much alarmed when I attempted -to snap-shot them, and slunk away, evidently warning -the others against us. The papooses, fastened like -little mummies to their mothers’ backs, had some of -them quaint, almost pretty, faces, but looked horribly -dirty and uncomfortable, swathed tightly in their -filthy rags.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The violent rocking of the train, the dust, the heat -of the cars, all combined to give me a bad attack of -car-sickness, added to which I knocked my head -violently against the door of our car, and was almost -stunned. At each station the one thought of everyone -on board was to get out for some fresh air and -to stretch one’s limbs, and I was almost left behind at -a little wayside station, where I had quite forgotten -my troubles looking at the glorious sunset lighting up -the prairie. Suddenly, to my horror, I saw the train -slowly gliding off; had not the guard cleverly caught -me up in his arms as the end carriage was leaving -the platform, I should have been left to the tender -mercies of the station-master and signalman in the -middle of the prairie until the next train passed, -twenty-four hours later.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After this adventure and fright I became so -thoroughly upset that my father decided to break -our journey at Banff for a couple of days.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER II <br /> <span class='fss'>IN THE ROCKIES</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>First sight of the Rockies--Stay at Banff--Indians and salmon--Arrival -at Vancouver--The <em>Empress of India</em>--Chinese -passengers--The missing day--A court-martial--First -sight of Japan.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b013.jpg' width='200' height='155' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -After leaving the prairies -the scenery became more -hilly and the country -wooded and fertile. The -maples had just turned, -and their gorgeous colouring -of crimson and gold -made the landscape appear like a gigantic flower-garden. -Ill as I felt, the beauty of the scene so -fascinated me that hours passed like minutes. -Gradually the distant blue mountains grew nearer -and more distinct, and, almost without knowing it, -we found ourselves in the heart of the Rocky -Mountains, four thousand feet above the sea-level.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At sunset a mist rolled across the valley, and above -towered the great Cathedral Rock, thirteen thousand -feet high, tinged a lovely rose-colour which gradually -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>faded into soft pink and gray; then all was left -in shadow, with the young moon shedding her pale -light upon the dark, rugged outline of rock. It was -a scene never to be forgotten.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We spent three pleasant days at Banff. Oh, the -joy of a quiet night’s rest, a hot bath, and being -clean again! I soon felt much better, though still -stiff and shaken. The hotel was very comfortable, -built like a huge Swiss chalet of pine-wood, with a -big veranda, and beautifully situated, overlooking -lake, forest, and river, and surrounded by high peaks -in the distance. The hot, iron, and sulphur springs -are a great feature of the place, and I much enjoyed -the warm, open-air bath, formed out of the rocks, -where I had a delightful swim each morning. The -air at Banff is most invigorating--so clear and pure. -We spent a good deal of our time on the Vermilion -Lake, paddling about in a Canadian canoe, and -exploring the many little creeks, some only a few -feet wide. Trout are very abundant in the lake, -and my father was fortunate in catching one weighing -nearly thirty-five pounds, much to the envy and -admiration of the other people at the hotel.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After leaving Banff we travelled in the observation-car -of the train as far as Field, a little village five -thousand feet up in the mountains, where we stopped -to dine. It was intensely cold, and snow was already -on the ground. The train after Field makes the -most extraordinary turns and twists, and is called -the loop-line. In some places both ends of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>train were visible from the car. The skeleton iron -bridges, hung from rock to rock, shook as we passed -over them, and I felt dizzy as I looked down at the -yawning chasms far below.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After leaving the Rockies we passed into the -Selkirk Range, and crossed and recrossed the great -Frazer River, with its high rocks and great boulders. -The river is full of salmon, and in a clear pool we -saw at least forty or fifty big fish basking. The -Indians catch them in great quantities, and we -passed several little encampments where queer-looking -strings of red stuff were hanging from long sticks, -which we were told was the salmon.</p> - -<div id='b015' class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i_b015.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>IN THE HEART OF THE ROCKIES.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Here and there were little wigwams by the river-bank, -with Indians and their papooses, forming -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>picturesque groups, some wading in the creeks, or -busy at work hanging up the salmon to dry in the -sun.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The scenery as we neared Vancouver became less -wild. Mount Baker, over fifteen thousand feet high, -rose up solitary and grand, its snow-capped summit -standing out like a white pyramid against the deep -blue of the sky. We were fortunate in seeing it in -all its beauty, as it is generally hidden in clouds.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Vancouver is a clean, well-built town at the mouth -of the Frazer River. The harbour there is large -enough for men-of-war to anchor in, and there we -found our steamer, the <em>Empress of India</em>, awaiting us--a -fine boat of 6,000 tons, painted white and built -on the lines of a large yacht. We spent Sunday, -the day after our arrival, in visiting the park near -Vancouver, where the famous big trees are to be seen--cedars, -firs, and spruce; one, perhaps the largest in -the world, measures sixty feet round, and a carriage -and pair of horses can go inside the trunk, which -is hollow. The forest is almost tropical with its -luxuriant vegetation and beautiful ferns. Wild -animals are to be found there, such as deer, -panthers, and a kind of lion, but the latter are -rarely seen now near the town.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The voyage between Vancouver and Yokohama -takes fourteen days. I was glad to find on board a -very nice-looking set of passengers, mostly English. -The first day or two we took each other’s measure -cautiously, and limited the conversation to a few -<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>polite nothings, but before the end of the voyage -many of us were firm friends.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There were about a hundred first-class passengers, -and three hundred miserable-looking Chinese in the -steerage. Many of them looked wretchedly ill, and -we saw a number of long black boxes in the hold, -which we heard afterwards were coffins. It seems -that the one desire of a Chinaman is to be buried in -his native land, otherwise he believes that his soul -will go into some low animal instead of to Paradise. -Just before sailing at midnight, I noticed a long line -of Chinese passing up the gangway to the steamer. -Before being admitted, they were carefully examined -by the ship’s doctor. Many poor wretches were turned -back, discovered to be suffering from some fatal -chest disease very prevalent amongst the Chinese. -As it was, I believe, there were several deaths on -board, in which case the steamship company was -bound under contract to convey the Chinese passenger, -alive or dead, to his destination.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Our stewards on board were all Chinamen, and -most quick and willing. They had all very long -pigtails tied with black silk at the ends, and little -black caps with red tassels on their heads. When -waiting at table they wore butcher-blue garments -down to their heels, white cuffs; and their funny -little feet were encased in white shoes with black -rosettes. They had sad, old-looking faces, but were -really quite cheerful, and talked incessantly in their -queer pigeon-English. I longed to send one home -<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>as a present to our old Rector, who always described -our Norfolk servants as ‘the curse of the age.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>An amusement committee was soon organized on -board, and by the end of the first week we were all -busily engaged in Bridge, Chess, Halma, and other -tournaments--cricket matches, athletic sports, and -one or two dances when the weather was sufficiently -calm. The Pacific Ocean rather belies its -name, as typhoons and severe storms prevail at -times, and we met one battered-looking sailing-ship, -which reported very rough weather off the -Japanese coast. However, we were most fortunate -during the whole voyage in having nothing worse -than a stiff breeze on one or two occasions, although -that was quite sufficient to send many of the passengers, -including myself, to their berths; but my -fears of being ‘battened down’ were never realized.</p> - -<p class='c001'>In consequence of continually travelling westward, -when we reached the meridian of 180° from Greenwich, -we were told that a day would be dropped to -equalize matters. Consequently, after going to bed -one Sunday night, we woke up to find it was -Tuesday morning, and our missing day was never -recovered until, on our voyage home to England, we -sailed eastward. As there was much variety of -opinion as to the reason of the missing day, one of -the passengers offered a prize for the best poem -describing <em>why</em> we must lose a day, <em>where</em> it goes to, -and <em>what</em> is done with it. About twenty of the passengers -sent in verses, which were read aloud by the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>Captain in the saloon and voted for. The prize was -won by an American missionary. Not that his was -by any means the best poem, but the entire missionary -party--there was a large gathering of them -on board--all arranged beforehand to vote for their -dear brother, a rather unfair proceeding.</p> - -<p class='c001'>During the voyage a stupid practical joke was -played, of which I was one of the chief victims. An -Australian lady and her daughter sent out invitations -to a tea-party in honour of the daughter’s birthday. -About a dozen of us were invited, including the -Captain and my father and me. A sumptuous -spread was prepared--cakes, sweets of all kinds, -and a delicious-looking soufflé, which our hostess -particularly begged us to try. I innocently put a -spoonful into my mouth, when I discovered to my -disgust it was made of nothing but beaten-up soap--the -most horrible concoction imaginable. Two or -three other people at the table followed suit, and our -feelings can be better imagined than described. It -took, indeed, some time before I recovered from the -effects.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Nemesis, however, awaited the originators of this -unpleasant trick. A trial by jury was decided upon. -Judge, counsel, and jury were got together, and large -notices were placed about the ship saying that a most -cold-blooded attempt at wholesale murder by poison -had been attempted, but fortunately, with no fatal -results; that the police had every reason to believe -that jealousy was at the bottom of it, and so on.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>After this, the Australian lady and her daughter -found life on board ship not altogether so delightful -as they had expected, but began to realize that it is -sometimes unwise to play practical jokes. The trial -took place two evenings later in the saloon, which -was arranged as much as possible like a court-room. -The judge, an English Colonel, arrayed in a long -scarlet cloak and a wig, sat at a table. The prisoners -were placed in chairs on another table, guarded by a -policeman. The counsel for the plaintiffs and the -defendants had wigs made by the ship’s barber, a -man of resource, who painted us up to represent our -various characters, making the three victims who -had swallowed the soap appear ghastly with white -chalk. The jury was composed of seven ladies. -There were also six witnesses, an usher, and a clerk -of the courts.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The counsel on both sides spoke well. The -defence was that soap was harmless and good to -eat, and a witness was called who was really a soap -manufacturer at Shanghai. After the jury had -retired for some minutes, they returned with the -verdict ‘Guilty,’ at which the two prisoners turned -pale and dissolved into tears. The judge, looking -very stern, after a short speech on the iniquity of -practical jokes, sentenced the prisoners to be taken -on their arrival at Yokohama to be tattooed on their -wrists with the words ‘Pears’ Soap.’ Needless to say, -this threat was not carried into effect; but I think -the offenders were already sufficiently punished. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>Early the following morning my father called me to -see the first glimpse of Japan--a faint outline of blue -hills against the horizon, which gradually became -more and more distinct until by mid-day we anchored -in Japan waters, and our long, pleasant voyage was -at an end.</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>On landing at Yokohama, we took rickshaws to -the Grand Hotel, a large English building on the -Bund facing the harbour. Never shall I forget my -first ride in the quaint little carriage resembling a -small buggy, only instead of having a horse in the -shafts, there was a funny little brown grinning -man, dressed in a blue cotton garment, barefooted, -with a large white hat like a mushroom on his head, -on which was printed his name and number. He -started off at a steady trot and, after the first feeling -of insecurity had passed, I thoroughly enjoyed the -motion and was quite sorry when we, with our luggage, -which had followed us in a long line of rickshaws, -were deposited at the steps of the hotel.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I was much amused the morning after my arrival -before I was dressed to receive visits from three -Chinese tailors. They marched calmly into my room -at various times, without waiting for me to answer -their knock, bringing patterns and begging me to -patronize them. The last had hardly departed when -another visitor appeared, in the shape of a dealer in -curios. He proceeded to strew my room with -brocades, embroideries and every conceivable knick-knack. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>I was unable to resist a quaint little Japanese -clock, a small bronze Buddha, and an embroidered -silk kimono, for which treasures I afterwards found -I had paid about three times their value, though I -fondly imagined I had made excellent bargains.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There was a charming view from the veranda of -my room. The harbour was gay with Japanese sanpans,<a id='rA' /><a href='#fA' class='c017'><sup>[A]</sup></a> -little sailing-boats,--here and there a man-of-war -and a couple of mail-steamers. Late that -afternoon I saw the <em>Empress of India</em> steaming slowly -out of the harbour, bound for Hongkong. It seemed -rather like saying good-bye to an old friend, and I -felt a little homesick as I watched my last link with -the old world disappear into the dim distance.</p> - -<hr class='c018' /> -<div class='footnote' id='fA'> -<p class='c001'><a href='#rA'>A</a>. Japanese boats.</p> -</div> -<hr class='c018' /> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER III <br /> <span class='fss'>EARLY DAYS IN JAPAN</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>A new friend--A Japanese dinner--Japanese temples--An -earthquake--A fire in Yokohama.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b023.jpg' width='150' height='318' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -The first few weeks after our -arrival in Japan would have -been rather dull, as my father -had to leave at once for Tokio -on business, had I not made -the acquaintance of a girl staying -in the hotel who was also -travelling with her father in -Japan. Pauline, as she was -called, was a few years older -than myself, a clever girl with -very decided opinions on most -subjects. She was also an only -child, and her father, who was -an invalid, gave way to her in -everything. For some reason -or other she took a great fancy to me at first sight. -We soon became good friends and I was delighted to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>have someone to go about with as I had always longed -for a girl companion. We explored the streets of -Yokohama together, picking up a few words of -Japanese which enabled us to make purchases and -direct our rickshaw coolies. What delightful drives -we had, going out sometimes far into the country -with green rice-fields on either side and here and -there a little tea-house where we would stop to rest -and have a cup of the honourable tea!</p> - -<p class='c001'>One evening my father took us both to dine at a -Japanese restaurant to have a real Japanese dinner. -On arriving, we had to take off our shoes before -entering the house and were then taken to a room -with absolutely no furniture, but divided by screens. -The floor was covered with spotless matting and -some little cushions on which we sat in various -attitudes. The Japanese way of sitting on one’s -heels is far too fatiguing to try for long.</p> - -<p class='c001'>First a little nasan (servant) appeared bowing -to the floor, bringing tea in tiny cups and some -cakes made of sweet beans; then three charming -little geishas (dancing girls) entered, dressed in -scarlet-embroidered kimonos and bright sashes. -Their faces were carefully painted, and their black -hair decorated with many-coloured pins. They were -the dearest little people imaginable, not more than -thirteen or fourteen years old, with pretty little -hands and feet and charming, graceful manners. A -lacquer tray was placed before each of us on the -floor with a cup of saké, the national drink--something -<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>like sherry and water, but with a burning taste, -and most intoxicating. As water-drinking is dangerous -in Japan we had to content ourselves with -tea. Bowls of soup were first brought us with large -pieces of fish and some strange-looking morsels floating -in it. These we chased about with our chopsticks -with little success, much to the amusement of -the geishas, who sat in a row watching us, laughing -merrily and evidently discussing our clothes and -appearance.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next dish was raw fish cut in slices, with some -green and very nasty sauce made from seaweed; then -came a course of fried fish, after which there was a -dance by the two geishas--wonderfully graceful and -pretty. It consisted chiefly in the waving of fans -and the revolving on one leg to the melodious strains -of a samisen, which resembles anything rather than -what we call music. Still, it seemed to suit the -dance and the strange surroundings.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Shrimps in batter was the nicest dish that we -tasted, followed by a concoction of fermented turnip -in slices and cabbage-stalks soaked in vinegar; and -finally a bowl of rice was served, always the last -course at a Japanese dinner.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Spoons and forks were given us, but we stuck -manfully to our chopsticks. It was a polite way of -not eating more than absolutely necessary. Two -more dances finished our entertainment.</p> - -<p class='c001'>On leaving we were each presented with a fried -fish in a little wooden box for good luck, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>little geishas and nasans followed us to our rickshaws, -calling out as we left: ‘Tum adain soone! -Sayonara!’</p> - -<div id='b026' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_b026.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>‘TUM ADAIN SOONE! SAYONARA!’</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>The Shinto and Buddhist temples round Yokohama -are curious and interesting with their stone -lanterns and little lacquer shrines. Most of them -are built of wood painted red. Those in the town -are generally crowded with people constantly coming -and going, some buying prayers on rice-paper for -their own particular want, price one sen (quarter of a -farthing), others only gossiping and strolling about.</p> - -<div id='b027' class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i_b027.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>ONE OF THE SHINTO TEMPLES.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Outside some of the temples is to be seen the -bronze or wooden figure of a god enclosed in a kind -of cage covered with wire-netting. These figures are -literally plastered over with little pellets of paper -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>prayers which the people chew in their mouths and -throw or spit at the image. If the paper sticks on -the figure their petition is answered; if, on the other -hand, it remains in the netting their prayer is not -heard--a true relic of old Japanese superstitions. -The great bronze Buddha at Kamakura is very -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>wonderful, and contains a small temple. The eyes -of the figure are of solid gold.</p> - -<div id='b028' class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_b028.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE GREAT BRONZE BUDDHA.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>At one of the temples which Pauline and I visited -a sacred horse is kept in a stall, and close by small -trays of corn are sold and given to the horse to do -duty as prayers. Needless to say, the poor beast is -almost as broad as it is long.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We had our first experience of an earthquake soon -after our arrival in Yokohama. It was not a severe -shock, but quite enough to alarm the visitors at the -Grand Hotel, who came rushing out on the landings -and corridors in the strangest and most sketchy -attires. I hardly like to describe the appearance of -one or two visions I met as I ran out of my room to -see what had happened. One lady was tearing downstairs -followed by her maid holding out a dressing-gown, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>which she vainly endeavoured to persuade her -mistress to put on. Two old maiden ladies, who -had arrived only the day before, insisted on the -manager of the hotel hiring them two rickshaws, -although it was nearly midnight, and in them the -two agitated spinsters spent the rest of the night -driving slowly up and down the Bund (parade), to -be prepared in case of further alarms. I saw them -the next morning looking very pale and weary, but -still holding on their laps bundles of underclothing, -several bags and a miserable little pet dog.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One or two cracks in the ceilings and walls of the -hotel was all the damage done by the shock that -night.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A fire is almost as much dreaded as an earthquake -in Japan, and, unfortunately, is of common occurrence -owing to the houses in the native quarters of -the towns being built entirely of wood and paper.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A few nights after the earthquake scare I was -awakened at about 2 a.m. by a brilliant glare in my -room and the noise of many hurrying footsteps -passing the hotel. Looking out of my window, I -saw what was apparently the entire native quarter -of Yokohama in a blaze. Flames and sparks were -leaping high into the air and great clouds of smoke -were pouring down the street. Quickly flinging on -a few clothes, I hurried to Pauline’s room, which -was next mine, and found her already half dressed. -It needed but little persuasion on her part to convince -me that the one and only thing to be done was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>to go and see what we could of the fire from a safe -distance. We crept downstairs and out of a side-door -into the street, which was by this time full of -little figures running rapidly in the same direction, -all carrying lanterns in their hands. I then remembered -that our passports, which had been given us -by the British Consul only a few days previously, -notified that no one was to attend a fire on horseback, -or without carrying a lantern. I could well -understand the danger there would have been riding -amongst this excited crowd of little Japs, but what -were we to do without a lantern? Suddenly I -remembered I had my purse in my pocket, and -seeing two shabby-looking boys carrying a light just -in front of me, I stopped them, and holding out -a yen (dollar), pointed to their precious lantern. -They understood my signals and, grinning broadly, -snatched at the money, handed me the lantern and -scampered off.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Pauline and I, clinging closely to each other, were -swept on in the crowd, which every moment grew -denser, until we found ourselves on the edge of the -moat separating the native quarter from the settlement.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As it seemed hopeless to attempt to put out the -fire, which every moment attacked fresh houses, -figures of men could be seen jumping from roof to -roof and tearing down houses still untouched to stop -the flames going further. The fierce glare lit up the -pale, excited faces of the thousands of little spectators -<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>swaying in one moving mass backwards and forwards, -whilst the clashing of bells from every quarter of the -town--one of the regulations in case of a fire--the -shouts of the crowd, and the crackling of the burning -wood, all added to the strangely horrible, yet fascinating -sight. The heat and smoke became almost -unbearable, sparks began to fall on us and one had -even scorched my hair. It seemed probable, unless -the wind changed, that the fire might cross the -moat, in which case our lives would be in danger. I -turned and asked Pauline whether we had not better -try to get out of the crowd and return home. To -my horror I found she was looking ghastly and ready -to faint. The heat and excitement had been too -much for her. I was in despair, knowing it would -be impossible to help her out in such a crush. At -that moment, to my intense relief, I saw my father’s -head and shoulders towering above the crowd not far -behind. I managed to call loud enough to attract -his attention, and he soon pushed his way through -to where we were standing. After some difficulty -we managed to get poor Pauline safely to a cooler -and less crowded spot. When she had revived a -little, we returned to the hotel half dead with fatigue, -our clothes ruined, and both of us thoroughly ashamed -of ourselves. I think my long-suffering parent thought -we had been punished sufficiently, as he did not refer -to our escapade, and Pauline’s father never knew -in what danger his idolized daughter had been that -night.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>The next day we heard that over four hundred -houses had been destroyed in the fire and three lives -lost. The loss of property was not great, as the -Japanese keep all their valuables in ‘go-downs’--small -fireproof buildings, which alone remained -standing and unhurt when we visited the spot a few -days later. Even before the ashes were cold the -plucky little people were hard at work marking out -fresh sites for new buildings, and three or four months -later it was difficult to believe that a fire could ever -have taken place in that neighbourhood.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Shortly after this Pauline confided to me her great -desire to see something of Japanese life in the interior, -far away from Treaty-port towns and European -hotels. Naturally, I also became seized with a -similar desire, so, after much persuasion and many -entreaties, our parents gave their consent to our -making a ten days’ tour, accompanied by a highly-recommended -and most respectable guide and interpreter, -by name Idaka. He was a most superior -person, with a fair knowledge of the English language, -and quite deliciously ugly. I liked that guide; -he told me I was a most intelligent walker, and had -a noble foot. Pauline insisted on calling him a fool--of -course not to his face, as ‘bacha,’ Japanese for -fool, is a terrible term to apply to anyone in Japan--but -even she admitted he certainly was useful.</p> - -<p class='c001'>During our absence Pauline’s father decided to -remain quietly at Yokohama, whilst mine had still -much important business to do in Tokio.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER IV <br /> <span class='fss'>A JAPANESE HARROGATE</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>A trip to the Japanese Harrogate--A curious travelling companion--A -Japanese inn--A mountain ride--At the -sulphur springs--A sulphur bath--A night in a tea-house--Sad -news.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b033.jpg' width='150' height='243' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -As our passports seemed to permit us -to go anywhere we liked, except to -a fire on horseback, we decided, -after much consultation with -Idaka, to go by train to Karuizawa, -and from there to visit the -hot sulphur baths at Kusatzu, a -place not generally known to -globe-trotters, where we were told -we should see much to interest us.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Accordingly the next morning -we bade an affectionate farewell to our parents and -also to the kind little manager of the Grand Hotel -at Yokohama, and started for Kodzu in the quaint -little train, which goes at the rate of, at least, ten -miles an hour. Oh what a hot, steamy, journey -it was! and we anything but looked forward to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>the five hours’ journey which lay before us. However, -we rejoiced in having the carriage to ourselves, -which was something to be thankful for. -Idaka, very busy and important, travelled third class -in charge of the luggage, clad in a marvellous costume, -consisting of a scarlet and white blazer, thick homespun -shooting stockings, patent-leather shoes rather -the worse for wear, and a deer-stalking cap, all evidently -‘cast-offs’ of former employers. We quite -regretted that we had nothing to give him to add to -the collection.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Just, however, as the train was starting, much to -our annoyance a stout little Japanese jumped into -the carriage and took his seat at the opposite end of -the compartment to where we were sitting. He was -a pale-faced little man, dressed in a black frock-coat, -dark trousers and a top-hat. He appeared very -much oppressed with the heat, but that was not -unnatural with a temperature of about 90° in the -shade.</p> - -<div id='b035' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b035.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>WE START FOR KODZU (<em>p.</em> 33.)</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Finding our companion very quiet and inoffensive, -we paid no further attention to him. An hour -passed, Pauline was fast asleep, and I suppose I also -must have closed my eyes, for presently, looking -across the carriage, I saw to my astonishment, -instead of the little black-coated man, a somewhat -slighter figure, in a set of gray dittos and cap to -match, quietly reading his Japanese papers as if -nothing had happened, a neatly-folded suit of clothes -on the seat beside him. I was somewhat startled at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>this curious transformation, and stories of disguised -criminals rushed into my mind, when up jumped the -little man and proceeded calmly to divest himself -of his gray suit, folding up the garments he took off -and placing them beside the black pile. Feeling -extremely embarrassed, I gazed severely out of the -window for several minutes. Pauline still slept. On -hearing the rustle of a paper, I ventured to look -round, and there sat our strange fellow-traveller, deep -in his ‘nichi-nichi shimbun’ (Japanese newspaper), -clad from head to foot in white duck and cricketing-cap -to match. ‘Now,’ thought I, ‘I should hope -his toilette is completed.’ No such thing. After -about half an hour the little man again seemed -restless and overcome with heat, and after casting a -despairing and perspiring glance around him, he got -up and reaching down from the rack a small black -bag, he pulled out a ‘ukata’ and ‘obi’ (the national -dress of a Japanese). Seeing the same performance -about to begin with regard to the white suit, I -coughed violently; but that having no effect and -escape being impossible I feigned sleep, and, when -I again ventured to open my eyes, a little thin figure -sat in the corner in correct Japanese attire. Three -neatly-folded bundles lay at his side,--hat, boots, -and all.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Fortunately, this was the last metamorphosis that -our strange companion indulged in, and soon afterwards -we changed trains, leaving him in full possession -of the carriage; so I shall never know whether -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>he redressed himself before the end of his journey, or -how he disposed of the remainder of his wardrobe. -It was certainly a novel way of carrying luggage.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Pauline was very indignant when I told her of the -occurrence. She said had she been awake it would -never have happened.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At last, after crawling along for five hours across -the burning plain, we reached Kodzu; and after a -short rest and a few little cups of yellow tea and -some peppermint sticks at the tea-house in the village, -we started off again in the little mountain train for -Karuizawa. Thankful enough we were, after passing -through twenty-six pitch-black tunnels reeking with -sulphur and smoke, to arrive at last, exhausted and -half-choked, but safe and sound at our journey’s end.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Karuizawa is situated on a large plain, formed -by the lava from the great volcano Asama, and is -about four thousand feet above the sea-level.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It is the strangest and weirdest spot imaginable. -For miles and miles in every direction as far as the -eye can reach stretches a vast plain covered with -pampas-grass and wild-flowers of every description, -and hemmed in by long ranges of blue mountains in -the far distance. In the centre of the plain rises -Asamayama like a great black pyramid, absolutely -bare; and from the summit a thin column of smoke -can be seen and an occasional flame, as if to give -warning of the fires down below.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The village of Karuizawa, some little distance -from the base, is composed of a collection of hideous -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>little wooden houses, principally the summer residences -of missionaries from all parts of Japan, a -small English church, only lately built, and a long, -straggling village street, with a few small native -shops of a primitive nature.</p> - -<div id='b039' class='figcenter id008'> -<img src='images/i_b039.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>IDAKA, THE GUIDE.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Idaka had taken a room for us at the chief tea-house -in the village, and, although the smell of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>‘daikon’ (fermented turnip) which permeated every -corner was not conducive to appetite, we managed -to make a fair supper of the tinned food we had -brought with us, supplemented by some native rice -and hot ‘saké’ (native drink).</p> - -<p class='c001'>We were escorted to our bedroom by the landlord. -Either from mistaken politeness or curiosity, he -declined to leave us, repeatedly bowing and apologizing -for the want of comfort in his miserable -establishment, and assuring us how highly he appreciated -the honour of entertaining such distinguished -guests. All this in the most excruciating English. -Hints that we wished to retire to bed were of no -avail; and at last Pauline, unable to restrain her -impatience any longer, drew back the ‘shoji’ (sliding -panel) and, with an imperious wave of her hand, -pointed from our little tormentor to the door, and -said: ‘Go, wretch!’ This had the desired effect. -He departed, bowing even lower than before, still -murmuring to himself ‘honourable distinction.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Well,’ I said to Pauline as, closing the panel carefully, -she turned towards me, ‘what about Japanese -politeness? I thought it was the only thing that -really was important out here. You have put your -foot in it.’ Pauline’s face was a study. Notwithstanding -her manner, which was most impressive, she -was at heart extremely nervous and highly strung. It -was some time before I could assure her that doubtless -the little man was quite as glad to go as we -were to get rid of him, and that there was no fear -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>of his detaining us by force or showing any resentment.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At last, however, we settled ourselves as comfortably -as we could on our ‘futons’ (Japanese mattresses) -on the floor, and slept the sleep of the just. -I have the impression that I saw a figure glide past -the foot of my bed during the night, but I was too -sleepy to rouse myself, and it may have been a -dream.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next morning we were off at sunrise. Pauline -was meekness itself; and the little landlord had -evidently made a very good thing out of us, as he -presented us with some poisonous-looking cakes of a -bright green colour to eat on the journey; the last -we saw of him as we rode down the village street -was a quaint little form bowing backwards and forwards -repeatedly until we were well out of sight.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Our cavalcade consisted of Pauline in a rickshaw -drawn by three men, two in the shafts and one -pushing behind. I was on a solid-looking white -pony which we had hired from the village carpenter. -Idaka and the cook rode mules, and three other -mules carried our provisions and baggage.</p> - -<p class='c001'>What a glorious morning it was! The sun had -just risen, and the woods through which we passed -for the first couple of hours of our journey seemed -alive with the songs of birds and the hum of myriads -of insects. The climb was a steep one, and we -were glad to arrive on the open moorland, which -stretched for miles around, covered with wild-flowers--poppies, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>marguerites, campanulas; red, yellow, and -white lilies, and waving pampas-grass, all in wild -profusion--a perfect blaze of colour. Certainly there -is no place like Japan for wild-flowers.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We halted at a little rest-house far away from any -other habitation. The air was very keen, and we -sat round the open fire, built in the ground, whilst -we ate our breakfasts. Our coolies kept up an incessant -chatter the whole time as they gobbled up -their little bowls of rice with their chopsticks. I -think Pauline rather regretted having chosen a rickshaw -instead of a pony, as the path was rough, and -the springs of the ‘kurama’ had seen their best -days; but after all, as I told her, a rickshaw was far -more Japanese, so she could not complain.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After a few hours’ ride through a park-like -country--quite different from anything else we had -as yet seen in Japan--we arrived at a curious little -village, and halted for tiffin in what is called the -Town Hall of the place--a wooden hut built on long -posts over a deep ravine. Three sides were open, -except for a little balcony; the posts and the one -wall were covered with Japanese advertisements--such -strange-looking hieroglyphics. Here we rested -an hour. Another steep climb, through scenery -which gradually became wilder and more and more -desolate, brought us about sunset to the village of -Kusatzu (pronounced ‘Koosats’)--a place which has -been noted for centuries for its mineral springs and -baths, and where thousands of sick little Japanese -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>come every year to try to get cured of various complaints. -Foreigners rarely come to Kusatzu, and, as -we passed down the village street, half the population -turned out to look at us, staring with open eyes -and mouths at the mad Englishwomen.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The village is built in a hollow and surrounded -by bare and desolate hills, on which no vegetation of -any kind or description grows. In the centre of the -village a large enclosure is railed in, inside which is -a seething, steaming mass of sulphur rocks and water -at boiling heat. Round this enclosure are large open -bath-houses, with water at different temperatures -and with different mineral properties, as all sorts of -diseases are treated here. The patients spend their -entire day either in the water or standing just outside -awaiting their turn. From time to time the -most unearthly groans are to be heard proceeding -from the baths--a chorus of long-drawn ‘Ohs!’ as -the master of the ceremonies, the doctor of the bath-house, -gives the word of command for the patients -to enter the water. Then a tremendous splashing -ensues, which is caused by the bathers beating the -water to cool it. We were told that each bather -has to beat the water over a hundred times before -entering or leaving the bath. The temperature of -the water in some of the baths is almost incredible, -and the poor creatures must suffer torments. In -the bath-house we passed, we saw rows of heads, -each tied round with a blue handkerchief, rising out -of the steaming, yellow water, and weird-looking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>figures were scrambling in and out, each holding a -‘beating board.’ It was a most depressing sight, and -we were both glad to pass to the outskirts of the -village, where Idaka had taken rooms for us.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I understand there are about two thousand patients -generally under treatment in Kusatzu, chiefly for -rheumatism and beri-beri. The lepers are separately -treated at some baths two miles away.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Pauline was rather anxious to pay a visit to the -lepers, as she remarked, ‘When one is in for a -thing it is best to miss nothing.’ But I stoutly -refused to go. The memory of the poor crippled, -deformed and suffering creatures I had seen in the -streets of Kusatzu was quite enough. In fact, I -found sleep almost impossible that night. The -groans of the unfortunate bathers rang in my ears, -and my dreams were peopled with visions of horrors -of every description.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We were lodged in a quaint little cardboard house, -innocent of furniture, but, fortunately, comparatively -clean, and we made ourselves fairly comfortable on a -couple of ‘futons’ which Idaka secured for us; and -we were too tired after our long day to find fault with -our quarters.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next morning I thought I would try the -effects of a warm sulphur swimming-bath attached -to the house. Milky-looking water bubbled up out -of the white rocks, and the sensation as I plunged in -was rather pleasant. After swimming and floating -about for a few minutes, I heard a splash, and looking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>round, I saw, to my horror, a dark head rising -out of the water at the other end of the bath. What -on earth to do I knew not. As long as I was in the -water at my end of the bath it was all very well, but, -unfortunately, I had left my clothes hanging on a nail -on the door at the other end! I waited, hoping the -intruder might recognise my predicament and have -the grace to depart. On the contrary, he seemed -prepared to spend hours at his morning ablutions. -Apparently he paid not the smallest attention to -poor me, but went through strange contortions in the -water, accompanying his movements with a weird -incantation I suppose he considered music. Feeling -desperate, as the strong sulphur water was rapidly -making me faint, I waved my arms frantically in -his direction and pointed to my garments on the -door. Then my companion evidently grasped the -situation, and a wide grin spread over his countenance -as he dived down into the water. I waited a -moment, but, as he did not reappear, I scrambled as -fast as I could on to the rocks, rushed to the door, -tore on my clothes, and vanished. Whether the -grinning little face ever appeared again on the surface -I know not, but when I reached my room, breathless -and exhausted, I vowed that nothing on earth would -again tempt me to take a sulphur bath.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After breakfast, although still feeling very sleepy -and tired from the effects of my prolonged swim, -Pauline and I started for a walk, escorted by Idaka, -to the ‘Valley of the Iced Winds.’ What a desolate -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>spot it was! The rocks were of every conceivable -shade and colour--some orange, some green, others -bright yellow and red, encrusted with the mineral -deposit from the little streams with which they were -intersected. Some of the streams were boiling hot, -others icy cold, but all had a strong sulphurous smell; -and we were surprised to see vegetation growing -almost to the edge of the water. In one place, however, -the fumes of sulphur were so strong that no bird -could pass above without being killed, and we were -glad enough to get away, feeling half suffocated.</p> - -<p class='c001'>During the rest of the day we explored the -village and made friends with some of the patient -sufferers, who live most of their time when not at -the baths sitting on the rocks in the sun. Some -come every year to Kusatzu, spending all their hard-earned -savings in the hope of deriving benefit by -the treatment; but many looked far too weak and -feeble for such drastic remedies.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The following morning we left at 7 a.m. for the -Shibu Pass, a stiff bit of riding; and the cold at the -summit was very piercing--a height of over seven -thousand feet. We were very glad of our tiffin in a -little rest-house, seated close to a peat fire. Pauline -and I had at last accomplished the trick of eating -rice with chopsticks--not an easy matter to the -uninitiated. With that and some hard-boiled eggs -and sandwiches we managed to fortify ourselves for -our downward journey.</p> - -<div id='b047' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b047.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>PREPARED FOR THE NIGHT (<em>p.</em> 49).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>After a brisk tramp of about three hours, we -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>reached Shibu, a pretty little town situated in a -valley, surrounded by mountains. We found the -tea-house so full, on account of the arrival of a party -of pilgrims on their way to Asamayama, the great -sacred volcano, that we had to do with very small -accommodation--in fact, a large blue mosquito-like -cage only separated us from the rest of the lady -visitors at the tea-house. There being only two spare -rooms, one was reserved for the ladies and the other -for the gentlemen of the party.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How we laughed as we lay in our blue cage and -watched the little ladies preparing for the night! -Sleep was practically impossible, owing to the mosquitos -and other lively inhabitants of the room and -the incessant tap-tap of the little Japanese pipes -which, even in her slumbers, a Japanese lady seems -to require.</p> - -<p class='c001'>However, as Pauline said, such an experience of -the inner life of the Japanese was worth a little -discomfort, and in the abstract I fully agreed with -her.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We were glad to be up betimes the next morning, -and started off again--all in rickshaws--for a pretty, -though hot, ride down to Nagano, where we took the -train. The heat in the plains was intense, but fortunately, -ice was obtainable at all the stations, and -by putting pieces on our heads and in our mouths we -managed to keep alive.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It was evening again before we reached Yokohama, -travel-stained, brown and weary, but very well -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>pleased with ourselves and our trip to the Japanese -Harrogate.</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>Soon after our return Pauline and her father left -Yokohama for Shanghai. I missed my friend terribly, -and at first felt quite lost without her. We parted -with many promises to write every week to each -other and made numerous plans as to our future -meetings in England. But, alas, how little we can -foresee or direct the future! After three or four long -and cheery letters from my friend, she suddenly -ceased writing, and my letters to her remained unanswered. -Some time afterwards we learnt that she -had caught typhoid fever in Shanghai, and died after -a week’s illness. I suppose her poor old father had -not the heart to write and tell us the sad news, but -we heard that he had left for England almost immediately -after his daughter’s death.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER V <br /> <span class='fss'>AN IMPERIAL GARDEN-PARTY</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Silk dresses and frock-coats--A disappointed Colonel--The -Royal procession--The chrysanthemums--I am presented--A -Japanese play--Japanese royal sport--The Mikado -and his subjects.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b051.jpg' width='150' height='272' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -We had been in Japan nearly -three months when we were -invited to attend the chrysanthemum -garden-party -given by the Emperor and -Empress each November in -honour of His Majesty’s birthday. -Invitations are sent but a few days -beforehand, as the date of the -party depends on the state of the -chrysanthemums. Only the Corps -Diplomatique, Government officials, -and a few globe-trotters are invited; -the latter obtain their invitations -through their own Legations. As -it is almost the only occasion when Their Imperial -Majesties are seen in public, I was delighted at the -idea of going.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>Our invitation-cards were very large and thick, -with the Imperial crest at the top and a gold border -of chrysanthemums. The writing was in Japanese -characters, but enclosed in the same envelope was -a slip of paper in French, saying that ladies were to -appear in silk dresses and gentlemen in frock-coats -and top-hats. Not possessing a suitable garment, -I was puzzled at first to know what to wear, but I -eventually succeeded, with the assistance of one of -the little Chinese tailors, in converting a blue silk -evening frock into one suitable for the garden-party.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The day was fortunately fine and exceptionally -warm for November. We started from the Imperial -Hotel in Tokio, where we were staying, at about -half-past one, Colonel S. and his wife from Hongkong -sharing a carriage with us.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Japanese horses are willing little beasts, not much -larger than ponies. Our coachman drove full gallop -through the streets, and the ‘betto,’ or footman, -ran along in front shouting at the crowds to get out -of the way. How an accident was avoided I do not -know, as the streets seem to be the playground of all -the children in Tokio; and I thought several of the -little doll-like figures must have been run over. Our -driver and betto wore dark blue linen with a crest -embroidered on their backs, and large white pith -hats fastened under the chin with a strap.</p> - -<div id='b053' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b053.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>OUR INVITATION-CARDS WERE VERY LARGE AND THICK (<em>p.</em> 52).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Colonel S., who was only passing through Japan -on his way to England, had no frock-coat with him, -but in his well-cut dark suit and top-hat we all -<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>thought he could not fail to pass muster. We were -mistaken, however. On our arrival at the palace, we -were ushered into a large hall where a row of officials -in blue-and-gold uniforms were waiting to inspect us. -As the gallant Colonel passed up the room, two of -the officials stepped up to him, pointed to his frockless -coat, began gesticulating wildly and talking -rapidly in Japanese, of which the Colonel did not -understand a word. My father, who speaks Japanese, -attempted to explain matters, but without success. -The discomfited and disappointed officer had to -retire, leaving his wife, who fortunately had on the -required silk dress, to go on with us alone.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After walking about half a mile through the -grounds, which are very beautiful, over little bridges -and up little winding paths, we arrived at some large -tents, where the chrysanthemums were on show. -Numerous groups of people were dotted about--Japanese -officers and officials in uniform; others in -grotesquely-cut frock-coats and opera-hats; their -wives and daughters in European dress; also members -of the different legations and consulates. I could not -help thinking how far better the little Japanese ladies -would have looked in their own national costume, -but European dress is the strict order at Court. -The scene was a very picturesque and animated -one, and great excitement prevailed when, about -half-past two, the Emperor and Empress were -announced to be coming. The Corps Diplomatique -arranged themselves in line--first the French Minister -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>as <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>doyen</em></span>, with his wife, daughters, secretaries, and -Belgian staff; then followed the English, German, -American, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, Russian, Chinese -and Korean diplomats, the two latter looking very -picturesque in their quaint head-dresses and long -robes. The remainder of the guests stood in a -group a little apart.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As the Royal procession appeared in sight, walking -slowly up the winding paths, the band played the -Japanese National Anthem and there was dead -silence amongst the crowd.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Emperor walked first in full General’s uniform, -quite alone. He is a tall man for a Japanese, stout -and extremely plain. He had a stern, somewhat -forbidding expression, which he always wore in -public; and as Sir Edwin Arnold says, ‘The -slightest bend of his brow in salutation appears -to be the result of superhuman effort of reluctant -will.’ Yet he is idolized by his people; it is said -that his power is enormous, while no one knows how -he controls and rules the Empire from the privacy -of his walled-in palace.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Behind him walked the Empress, quite alone also, -dressed in crimson brocaded satin with a little Paris -bonnet to match, followed by her ladies-in-waiting -and the Court officials and Ministers of State--amongst -them the Marquess Ito, Count Oyama, and -General Yamagata, all well-known names in Europe -at the present time.</p> - -<p class='c001'>They bowed low as they passed us, and we kept -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>up a succession of bobs and curtsies until we joined -into line and followed the procession into the flower-tents.</p> - -<div id='b057' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b057.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE GARDENS ARE VERY BEAUTIFUL (<em>p.</em> 55).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Apparently the great feature at a chrysanthemum -show, from a Japanese point of view, is not the size -and shape of each flower, but the number of blossoms -on a plant flowering at the same time. Three of the -tents contained but one enormous plant in each; -with from one to two thousand blooms all the same -size and colour. We were told that one of these -plants alone requires a gardener’s entire time to look -after it, as the difficulty is to get all the flowers to -perfection at once. In other tents, chrysanthemums -with small, different-coloured flowers had been -trained over wires to represent figures of people and -animals, more curious than beautiful.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After the flowers had been inspected, the Emperor -and Empress entered a large tent, where the presentations -were made. Each Legation went in turn to -felicitate the Emperor on his birthday and to bow to -the Empress. All had to walk backwards out of the -tent past the Court ladies and officials--not an easy -task. With some the Emperor said a few words. -His face when smiling lighted up, changing his -morose expression to one of almost benevolence. I -own to feeling horribly nervous when my turn came -to be presented by our Minister’s wife, and breathed a -sigh of relief when I returned safe and sound from -the Royal tent without having utterly disgraced -myself by tumbling over my train, or knocking down -<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>one of the little officials who were stationed at every -available corner.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Small tables were placed about on the grass, and -we were offered sandwiches of foie-gras, caviare and -chicken, creams, ices, and champagne.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It was amusing to watch some of the Japanese -guests, not only partaking of a hearty meal, but -quietly secreting sweetmeats and cakes in their -pockets, probably for some little child at home.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The royal party, after having some light refreshment -at a table a little apart from the rest, then rose -to leave. The National Anthem was again played, -and we all followed as we liked.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At one end of the gardens a play was going on. -No stage, only a ring of chairs and a big sheet. The -actors were being made up and dressed in sight -of everyone. Men clothed in black, with masks, -arranged the scenes, and were supposed to be invisible. -The play was ‘The Forty-seven Ronins.’ -All the Japanese in the audience held handkerchiefs -to their eyes and wept copiously, although I failed to -see anything at all pathetic in the wild gesticulations -of the actors. The famous Danjiro was there--the -Irving of Japan. Amongst the audience the poetess -of the Empress was pointed out to us, a curiously -shrivelled-up little lady in a stiff green-and-white -brocade, with a large bustle, green shoes and -stockings, and a wonderful erection of flowers and -feathers on her head. This costume must have done -duty on these occasions for many years, to judge by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>its antique style; but the little lady was evidently -very proud of her toilette. Three of the young -Princesses, pretty little girls, with round, merry -faces and bright dark eyes, were also spectators. We -did not see the Crown Prince, a delicate, consumptive -youth, already married and a father. The -Empress is not his mother. She is childless, but -the Japanese law has sanctioned the adoption of this -boy, the son of one of the Emperor’s unofficial wives, -as heir to the throne. I am told, however, that the -Crown Prince looks upon the Empress as his -mother.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Emperor has five unofficial wives, all ladies of -good family, who have separate establishments in the -palace grounds, but are never seen in public; in fact, -of the private life of the palace the outside world -knows nothing. Japan is one of the oldest dynasties -in the world, and the Japanese were living very much -as they do now, except for electric light and European -dress, when we Westerners were savages in -blue paint and feathers.</p> - -<p class='c001'>In another part of the palace grounds are the -duck-ponds and decoys. The killing of these wild -duck, which come in great quantities every winter to -the moat and decoys, is held to be a royal sport in -Japan, and they are considered more or less sacred. -The official who showed us the decoy begged us to -keep quite silent, and we walked on tiptoe, in single -file, up a narrow path to a small wooden hut, where -we were allowed to peep at the sacred birds through -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>little slits in the wood. There were already great -numbers of them collected together, all apparently -quite tame. The ‘sport’ is this: There are long -dykes, with a high net at the end. The ‘sportsmen’ -stand on either side with large hand-nets, and the -duck are driven into the dykes from the pond, and, -not being able to get out, rise, when they are caught -in the nets and their necks wrung. It is supposed to -be a great disgrace to miss a bird.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We were afterwards taken to the aviaries, where -we saw a collection of birds of every description, from -a Cochin-China hen to an eagle. There was a parrot -there which is known to be a hundred and twenty -years old, possibly more. They were all beautifully -kept and cared for. One of the attendants amused -us by saying: ‘Is it not a sign of the Emperor’s -good heart to have so many birds?’ But when we -asked him how often His Majesty came to see them, -he said: ‘Oh, he never <em>comes</em> here.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Imperial Palace is an enormous building of -wood surrounded by a moat. The rooms are decorated -with valuable paintings, the walls hung with -‘kakimomos’ by celebrated Japanese artists, and old -embroideries; the Emperor also possesses a priceless -collection of gold lacquer and ivories. The palace is -fitted up with electric light, but the Emperor considers -it dangerous, so the rooms are lighted by -thousands of candles.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The palace grounds cover many acres in the centre -of Tokio--the highest position in the city. Imperial -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>etiquette forbids that the ruler of the Land of the -Rising Sun should be looked down upon from any -point of view; therefore from his palace windows <em>he</em> -can look down upon every part of the city. For the -same reason, on the rare occasions when His Majesty -passes through the streets of the city, orders are given -for all the upstair window-blinds to be lowered.</p> - -<div id='b063' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_b063a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p><span class='fss'>BUTCHER’S.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_b063b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic010'> -<p><span class='fss'>UMBRELLA SHOP.</span><br />QUAINT SIGNBOARDS IN SOME OF THE STREETS, TOKIO.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Formerly men, women, and children fell on their -faces as the royal carriage passed by; now they only -bow low, in token of their awe and respect.</p> - -<div id='b064' class='figcenter id009'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span> -<img src='images/i_b064a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p><span class='fss'>POULTRY AND EGG SHOP.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id011'> -<img src='images/i_b064b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p><span class='fss'>JAPANESE TAILOR.</span><br />QUAINT SIGNBOARDS IN SOME OF THE STREETS, TOKIO.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Soon after our arrival in Tokio I had a rather -startling experience. I was standing in one of the -streets to watch the Emperor drive past in his -carriage, when suddenly my hat was wrenched off -my head, and I was pushed forward violently by -some heavy hand. On looking round, I saw an -officious little policeman glaring at me, my poor hat -in his clutches. Not until the procession had disappeared -from view could I understand what had -happened, but remained meek and hatless. It seems -the little man considered my attitude towards his -Sovereign was not sufficiently humble, and took -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>this somewhat drastic way of correcting me. I -must say this was the only occasion when I have experienced -the slightest rudeness or incivility in the -streets of a Japanese town, although I do not consider -that foreigners are altogether beloved in Japan.</p> - -<p class='c001'>An artist who painted the portraits of the Emperor -and Empress told me that he had been obliged to do -them almost entirely from photographs, as their Imperial -Majesties are far too sacred to pose as models. -On one occasion he persuaded one of the Court -officials to allow him to stand behind a curtain at a -Royal banquet. Through the curtain he made a little -hole, and was thus enabled to get a glimpse at the -Emperor. Another time he waited patiently for -hours at some place where the Empress was to pass; -but on her arrival all present were obliged to bow -their heads in obeisance, and the poor man could see -nothing. However, the likenesses were considered -good, and the artist received three thousand dollars -for each picture, as well as a large medal, of which -he is very proud.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER VI <br /> <span class='fss'>JAPANESE LADIES</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Their habits and ways--Home life--The Honourable Bath--Count -Ito and his wife--Old Japan--Loyalty to husbands--A -mixed marriage--Curious customs--Japanese sayings.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b066.jpg' width='160' height='261' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -The fair sex in Japan are the most -simple and, at the same time, the -most complicated creatures imaginable. -In their general ideas -and knowledge of the world they -are like children--delightful children, -too--and in their love of -enjoyment and simple pleasures -they retain their youthful simplicity -all their lives.</p> - -<p class='c001'>But, on the other hand, it is almost impossible for -a foreigner really to understand their natures. Up -to a certain point a Japanese lady is apparently -friendly, as she greets one on meeting with that easy -grace and courtesy which is one of her peculiar -charms. But one seldom becomes more intimate. -There seems to be a wall of reserve, beyond which it -is impossible to penetrate. I have often attempted -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>to fathom the cause of this barrier, but without -success; and I find it is the general experience of -those who, like myself, have lived amongst the -Japanese and known them well.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Perhaps the natural antipathy which has so long -existed between the Eastern and Western races may -somewhat account for this want of intimacy; and -also, I fear, we Europeans have often wounded the -delicate susceptibilities of our Eastern cousins by our -want of tact, and our tendency to treat their manners -and customs with ridicule, if not contempt.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I am speaking more particularly of the ladies of -the upper classes. The little ‘musmee,’ generally -considered by the ordinary globe-trotter to be the -recognised type of a Japanese woman, is no more so -than is the grisette the typical Frenchwoman, or -the English ballet-girl the typical Englishwoman.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Nowhere, perhaps, in the world does one find a -more ideal ‘lady’ than amongst the wives and -daughters in fair Japonica.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A Japanese lady reminds me of a delicate sea-anemone, -which at the first approach of a rough -hand shrinks into itself, avoiding contact with the -practical hardness of everyday life.</p> - -<p class='c001'>She is almost morbidly sensitive, but her natural -pride and politeness forbid her in any way to retaliate. -How little we understand her feelings! A Japanese -<em>never</em> forgets. Sometimes revenge is impossible, but -I have heard of more than one case when a foreigner’s -official position has been lost owing to his wife’s -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>indiscretion, though he and his wife also may be -entirely ignorant of the cause of his dismissal.</p> - -<p class='c001'>In appearance, a Japanese woman is smaller and -of slighter build than a European. Many are distinctly -pretty when young, but they age very quickly, -and with their youth every vestige of good looks -departs. Their complexions are very sallow, but -their faces are generally thickly painted and powdered, -a hard line round the neck showing the point -where art stops and Nature begins.</p> - -<div id='b068' class='figcenter id012'> -<img src='images/i_b068.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>‘MANY ARE DISTINCTLY PRETTY WHEN YOUNG.’</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Beauty, from a Japanese standpoint, consists in a -long, oval face, regular features, almond-shaped eyes -sloping slightly upwards, a high, narrow forehead, -and abundance of smooth, black hair.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Their movements are graceful, although the style -of their dress prevents them walking with ease; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>their feet and hands are delicately formed, and their -manners unquestionably charming.</p> - -<div id='b069' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_b069.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>A JAPANESE LADY OF THE UPPER CLASS (<em>p.</em> 68).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>They take hardly any exercise, and one wonders -sometimes how the little ladies employ their time. -There seems so little to be done in a Japanese house. -To begin with, there are no regular meals. The -shops near at hand supply daily numberless minute -dishes, which seem to be eaten at all hours of the -day and night, a few pecks with those impossible -chopsticks at a time. Nothing is kept in the larder -except some slices of ‘daikon’ (fermented turnip), -some rice, and sweet biscuits.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘The honourable live fish’ is sold by men who -carry round large water-tubs from house to house, -and cut off as much as is required from the unfortunate -fish, replacing the sadly mutilated but -still struggling remains in the tub.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Eggs are cheap and plentiful. Bread is never used, -so there is no necessity for an oven.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The great stand-by is tea. A Japanese lady is -seldom seen in her home without the quaint little -tea-tray by her side and the inevitable pipe, containing -one whiff of tobacco, which is in constant -requisition.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There is practically no furniture in a Japanese -house. The beds consist of large quilted rugs called -‘futons,’ which are rolled up every morning and put -in the cupboards concealed behind the ‘shoji,’ or -panels, in the walls. There are no carpets, curtains, -tables, or chairs, only the straw ‘tatami,’ and a few -small, flat cushions on the floor.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>Instead of our European fireplace, a brass or -wooden ‘hibatchi’ (fire-box) is substituted, containing -charcoal. The boxes can be moved about a -room as desired.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Everything is spotlessly clean. No muddy shoes -are allowed inside a house, and one can generally -judge of the number of inmates by the row of -wooden clogs placed in a row outside the front-door.</p> - -<div id='b072' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_b072.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>A TEA-HOUSE VERANDA.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>It is all very quaint and strange in Japan, and the -longer one lives in the country, the more fascinated -one becomes with the little people, whose manners -and customs differ so greatly from our own.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Before the Chino-Japanese War broke out there -was quite a revival of cordiality between the Japanese -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>and foreigners in the capital. Dinners and garden -fêtes were given and returned, and the wives of the -Japanese Ministers and officials had their ‘At Home’ -days during the winter, when nothing could have -exceeded their dainty politeness and the apparent -interest they took in our European houses and dress--especially -dress, I remember. Sometimes, when -conversation became rather strained, the introduction -of a <cite>Lady’s Pictorial</cite> or <cite>Queen</cite> would quite revive -flagging interest, and many a time have I been consulted -in the choice of some important item in their -‘toilette.’ I am glad to say there has been a reaction -the last year or two in favour of the national -dress, the long flowing kimonos and quaint obis -being infinitely more becoming to their slender little -figures than the madly complicated and ever-changing -fashions of the West.</p> - -<p class='c001'>But everyone must appear at Court in European -dress, and many have been the dilemmas of the little -ladies when called upon to appear at some function -at the palace.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It has been said that foreign clothes make a -difference in a man’s behaviour to his wife: -‘European dress, European manners.’ How far -this is correct I cannot say, but there may be some -truth in it. As I mentioned before, we were congratulating -ourselves on the progress we were making -in our friendly relations with the little ladies. But -when the war broke out, the Japanese Ministers -left in the Emperor’s train for the headquarters -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>of the army at Shimonoseki, the officers joined their -regiments and ships, leaving their wives behind, -and for the next eighteen months no Japanese lady -crossed our thresholds, nor was to be seen at home -or abroad.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Now, this was most disappointing. In vain we -called at their houses. ‘“Arimazen” (‘Not at -home’), said a smiling, and I fear untruthful, nasan.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The nearest approach we had to success was one -afternoon, calling on the wife of one of the Ministers -of State. In answer to our inquiries if the Countess -was at home, the doors were drawn back--they don’t -open in Japan--and we were admitted, feeling very -triumphant. We removed our shoes, and were -ushered down long corridors to a room evidently -kept to receive foreigners, having as its only furniture -one small table and four chairs. After waiting -about ten minutes we heard a shuffling of feet and -much suppressed laughter; one of the panels of the -room was drawn aside, and to our great surprise our -own Japanese coachman appeared, followed by two -nasans, who seemed immensely amused about something. -After some difficulty--for our coachman’s -vocabulary in English was extremely limited--we -were given to understand that the ‘oksama’ (honourable -lady of the house) was engaged in having her -bath, and unable to receive us. We beat a hasty -and discomfited retreat, and after that resisted our -desire to renew the acquaintance of the mysterious -little people, who for some reason best known to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>themselves had so completely given us the cold-shoulder.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Some months later, the war being ended and the -husbands having returned, their wives reappeared in -public as friendly and as smiling as before. We -asked them the reason of their apparent desertion, -but all we could gather was that their husbands had -forbidden them to enter society during their absence; -I fancy, however, their own inclination had a good -deal to do with their retirement from European -society.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A Japanese lady is noted for her courage, her -strength of mind and self-possession. It is wonderful -to think what physical trials and dangers -these fragile, delicate little creatures will undergo in -an emergency. The Prime Minister’s life was once -saved by the courage and presence of mind of his -wife.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Many years ago, when quite a young man, during -a rebellion, Count Ito was hiding from his enemies, -who, having tracked him to his house, sent a band -of ‘soshis’ to assassinate him. On hearing his -enemies approaching, and trapped like a rat in its -hole, the Count drew his sword and prepared to die; -but the Countess whispered, ‘Do not die; there is -hope still’; and removing the hibatchi, or fire-box, -and lifting up the mats and the planks beneath, she -induced her husband to conceal himself in the hollow -space which exists under the floor of all Japanese -houses. The murderers broke into the room just as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>the fire-box had been replaced, and demanded of the -Countess their victim. In vain they threatened and -cruelly ill-treated her, dragging her about the room -by her long black hair. But it was of no avail; they -could not shake her resolute fidelity. Thanks to her -courage Count Ito escaped, and has lived to give to -his country a new Constitution, and become one -of the greatest statesmen of modern Japan.<a id='rB' /><a href='#fB' class='c017'><sup>[B]</sup></a> I -often wondered when I saw the Countess, now a -delicate, gray-haired little lady, at the courage -and presence of mind that she displayed at that -critical moment of her life.</p> - -<hr class='c018' /> -<div class='footnote' id='fB'> -<p class='c001'><a href='#rB'>B</a>. Sir Edwin Arnold.</p> -</div> -<hr class='c018' /> - -<p class='c001'>Another instance of the high spirit of Japanese -women and their pride is shown in the following -anecdote, described by a German writer, entitled -‘A Japanese Lucretia’:</p> - -<p class='c001'>In 1646 a nobleman named Jacatai was ordered to -present himself before the Mikado, and was obliged to -leave his wife behind. During his absence a former -rejected suitor of the lady’s, taking advantage of his -successful rival’s absence, came, with his retinue, and -by force carried off the unfortunate bride to his castle. -She, however, eventually managed to escape, and -instantly determined to be revenged. Holding out -distant hopes of pardon to the offender, she induced -him to remain in the neighbourhood of Saccai until -her husband’s return, when she gave an entertainment -to all her relations and friends to welcome him -back. In the middle of the banquet, which was held -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>on the housetop, Lucretia suddenly rose up and -stated what had occurred, saying: ‘I pray you to -take my life now that I have been dishonoured, for I -do not care to live.’ All present protested against the -idea of punishing her for another’s crime, and her -husband assured her he loved her none the less for -what had happened. But her high sense of honour -was not satisfied. ‘Will no one punish me?’ she -said. ‘Then must I do it myself; but I pray you to -avenge me.’ With these words she flung herself -head foremost from the housetop and broke her -neck. The culprit was instantly pursued, but -escaped, only, however, to commit ‘hara-kiri’--the -honourable despatch--by the dead body of the unfortunate -lady whom he had wronged, but did not -desire to survive.</p> - -<p class='c001'>From her youth a Japanese lady is taught to control -her feelings, and the strange immobility that is -so noticeable in the Empress is considered, from a -Japanese point of view, the very highest mark of -good breeding. During the war, when one of the -Japanese Princes was away fighting in China, and -exposed to every possible peril in that deadly -country, his wife was asked if she was not terribly -anxious as to her husband’s safety. ‘Oh no,’ she -replied; ‘I am proud that my husband should be -fighting for his country. If he is killed in the -service of His Majesty, I should feel he was honoured -above others who have not had the opportunity of -showing their loyalty.’</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>The Prince, however, returned in safety, and he -and his wife are living happily together; and one -trusts the brave officer may have other ways of showing -his valour than by his death.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Much has been said about mixed marriages in -Japan. On rare occasions they are a success, but -this is not generally the case, especially if the wife -be the foreigner.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I was much interested in a European lady I knew -who had married a Japanese officer. They were a -very united couple, and, had it not been for the husband’s -mother, all might have been well. But in -Japan a wife is still entirely in subjection to her -mother-in-law, who makes the most of this authority, -in some cases reducing her son’s wife into a sort of -upper servant. In the present instance, as long as -her husband remained at home his wife was able to -do pretty much as she pleased. When, however, -the war broke out and he joined his regiment in -China, the mother-in-law entirely regained the upper -hand. The unfortunate daughter had to abandon -her European customs, adopt Japanese dress for herself -and her child, sit on the floor, and live principally -on Japanese food. Nor was this all. During her -husband’s absence the elder lady absolutely forbade -her victim to accept any invitations or to receive any -visitors except her Japanese relations and a few of -their friends.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I managed, however, to gain admittance one day, -and found my friend very miserable, shivering over a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>wretched charcoal ‘hibatchi,’ and without a single -book or paper to distract her thoughts from her -anxiety as to her husband’s safety. So great was the -old lady’s power and influence that the Western -woman did not dare to disobey, but had to submit -in silence until her husband’s return home, when, I -am glad to say, life once more became bearable to -her.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The case is somewhat different when it is the wife -who is Japanese. To begin with, no Japanese lady -of gentle birth would ever think of marrying a -foreigner. She would consider it a <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>mésalliance</em></span> of -the very worst description. Therefore the Japanese -wives whom one meets in society are of very humble -origin, and generally know no language but their -own. They are charming little creatures when -young, pretty and gentle; but they have nothing in -common with their husbands, and are looked upon -more in the light of playthings than anything else. -They have often, though, great influence with their -husbands in their household, and succeed in bringing -up their children as much like Japanese and as -little like foreigners as possible. I fancy it is chiefly -owing to the Japanese parent’s jealousy and the -negligence of the foreigner that this is the case.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The social position of Japanese women has very -much changed for the better during the last few -years, chiefly owing to foreign influence and the -spread of Christianity in the country.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Empress, too, has done much by promoting -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>charitable work of all kinds in the country, and -through her influence the horrible custom of blackening -the teeth and shaving the eyebrows of married -women has been abolished. Her personal interest -in the Red-Cross Society was especially noticeable -during the last war, when she and the wives of -many of the nobles visited, and some even nursed, -the sick in hospital, and employed their days making -lint and bandages for the use of the wounded.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A Japanese courtship and wedding are both very -curious ceremonies, and still somewhat savour of -barbarism.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘When a young man has fixed his affections upon -a maiden of suitable standing, he declares his love -by fastening a branch of a certain shrub to the house -of the damsel’s parents. If the branch be neglected, -the suit is rejected; if it be accepted, so is the suitor’ -(Siebold).</p> - -<p class='c001'>At the time of the marriage the bridegroom sends -presents to his bride as costly as his means will allow, -which she immediately offers to her parents, in -acknowledgment of their kindness in infancy and of -the pains bestowed upon her education. The wedding -takes place in the evening. The bride is dressed -in a long white silk kimono and white veil, and she -and her future husband sit facing each other on the -floor. Two tables are placed close by. On the one -is a kettle with two spouts, a bottle of saké, and cups; -on the other table a miniature fir-tree, signifying -strength of the bridegroom; a plum-tree, signifying -<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>the beauty of the bride; and lastly a stork, standing -on a tortoise, representing long life and happiness, -desired by them both.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At the marriage feast each guest in turn drinks -three cups of the saké, and the two-spouted kettle, -also containing saké, is put to the mouths of the -bride and bridegroom alternately by two attendants, -signifying that they are to share together joys and -sorrows. The bride keeps her veil all her life, and -at her death it is buried with her as her shroud. -The chief duty of a Japanese woman is obedience--whilst -unmarried, to her parents; when married, -to her husband and his parents; when widowed, -to her son.</p> - -<p class='c001'>In the ‘Greater Learning of Women’ we read: -‘A woman should look upon her husband as if he -were heaven itself, and thus escape celestial punishment.... -The five worst maladies that afflict the -female mind are indocility, discontent, slander, -jealousy, and silliness. Without any doubt these -five maladies afflict seven or eight out of every ten -women, and from them arises the inferiority of -women to men. A woman should cure them by -self-inspection and self-reproach. The worst of them -all and the parent of the other four is silliness.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>The above extract shows us very clearly the position -which women have until quite recently taken in -Japan. As a German writer says, ‘Her condition is -the intermediate link between the European and the -Asiatic.’ On the one hand, Japanese women are subjected -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>to no seclusion, and are as carefully educated -as the men, and take their own place in society; -but, on the other hand, they have absolutely no independence, -and are in complete subjection to their -husbands, sons, and other relations. They are without -legal rights, and under no circumstances can a -wife obtain a divorce or separation from her husband, -however great his offence. Notwithstanding this, in -no country does one find a higher standard of -morality than amongst the married women of Japan. -Faithlessness is practically unknown, although the -poor little wives must often have much to put up -with from their autocratic lords and masters. They -bear all, however, silently and uncomplainingly, their -characteristic pride and reserve forbidding them show -to the outer world what they suffer. I read the other -day that a Japanese poet has called a Japanese wife -‘social glue,’ meaning, I suppose, that she had to -cement the happiness of everyone in the house -together.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We Europeans might well in many respects imitate, -and have still much to learn from, our little -cousins in the Far East.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER VII <br /> <span class='fss'>JAPANESE CHILDREN</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Boys and girls--Games--The Feast of Dolls--School life--The -‘Hina Matsuri’--The Feast of the Carp--The ‘Bon -Matsuri,’ the festival for dead children.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b083.jpg' width='180' height='184' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -There is nothing more delightful -in Japan than the -children. Japan has been -called ‘the Paradise for -Babies,’ and the Japanese -‘a nation at play.’ Certainly -these titles seemed to me -appropriate as I took my -first drive through the narrow Japanese streets, and -saw at every turn the crowds of happy-faced little -beings, either flying huge kites--whose long strings -got sadly in the way of our rickshaws, though no -one seemed to care--or spinning tops on the pavement, -a fatal practice to short-sighted pedestrians.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How picturesque they looked toddling about in -their bright-coloured kimonos and high wooden -clogs, with a baby almost as big as themselves -firmly secured on their backs, the rider and ridden -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>sometimes so near of an age that one almost fancied -they must be taking turns and carrying one another!</p> - -<div id='b084' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b084.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>‘HOW PICTURESQUE THEY LOOKED!’</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>The babies, too, appeared to enjoy the fun as -much as anyone, which was fortunate, as, willing -or unwilling, they had to join in all the games of -their elder brothers and sisters, and one wondered -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>how on earth it was their little heads didn’t roll off -as they rocked backwards and forwards, and up and -down, in time to the rapid movements of the game -their elders were playing.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Little girls, too small to carry real babies, had -big dolls strapped on their backs, and it was really -difficult to distinguish the live article from the -imitation. No wonder their backs become bent -nearly double by the time they are old women--they -age very quickly do the women in the Far -East--but they are wonderfully fascinating when -young, with their curious, old-fashioned manners, -their marvellous self-possession, and the politeness -and dignity with which they comport themselves on -every occasion. They have but one drawback, and -that I must confess is a very serious one--namely, -the total absence of pocket-handkerchiefs; and somehow -they always seem to have colds! I think I need -say no more.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There are many strange and original customs -relating to the management and bringing up of -children in Japan. Boys are the most thought of, -as is universally the case all over the East, but not -to the same extent as in other Eastern countries.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘On the birth of a son there is great rejoicing in -a family. Two fans are presented to the infant by -his godparent, representing courage. When he is -thirty days old he is taken to a temple to receive -his name. Three names are written on separate -bits of paper and given to a priest, who, asking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>the gods to direct the choice, throws the slips into -the air, and the first falling to earth is supposed to -contain the name the gods approve of, and is consequently -given to the child.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Other names are added during the boy’s life--on -his fifteenth birthday, on his marriage, and one is -given to him after death by his relations.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘A boy’s head is clean-shaven until he is five years -old, with the exception of four little tufts of hair--one -in front, one behind, and one at each side of his -head. On his fifth birthday the function of the -“hakama” takes place--the child, in other words, -goes into trousers. A godparent is appointed for -this important event, who presents his godson with -three gifts--a false sword, a wooden spear, and a -ceremonial dress embroidered with storks, tortoises, -branches of fir, bamboo-twigs, and cherry-blossom--all -emblems of good luck and long life. From that -date his hair is allowed to grow, though it is -generally very closely cropped in French fashion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘On his fifteenth birthday the last and most -important function is celebrated--"the Ceremony of -the Cap"--when a new godparent is chosen, the -boy receives his second name, and he attains his -majority.’<a id='rC' /><a href='#fC' class='c017'><sup>[C]</sup></a></p> - -<hr class='c018' /> -<div class='footnote' id='fC'> -<p class='c001'><a href='#rC'>C</a>. Siebold.</p> -</div> -<hr class='c018' /> - -<div id='b087' class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_b087.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>JAPANESE CHILDREN.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>We are also told by Siebold that it was the custom -of the ancients, on the birth of a female child, to let it -lie on the floor for the space of three days, and in -this way to show the likening of the man to heaven -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>and the woman to earth. This custom has fortunately -been abolished, with many other cruel and -barbarous practices, and female children are no longer -neglected.</p> - -<p class='c001'>When a daughter is born in a house, a godparent -is chosen, who presents the baby with a shell of -paint, implying beauty. A pair of ‘hina,’ or images, -are also purchased for the little girl, which she plays -with until she is grown up. When she is married -her hina are taken with her to her husband’s -house, and she gives them to her children, adding -to the stock as her family increases.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Dolls occupy a very important part in the life of a -little girl. They are not merely playthings to be -thrown away and discarded at will; on the contrary, -they are considered ‘heirlooms’ in a family, and -carefully guarded and treasured for generations. I -really think an ‘ichi ban,’ or best doll, receives much -more care and attention than the real baby, who -from its earliest infancy, as I have before remarked, -is made to share in all the work and play of its -elders, with no regard to its own feelings or wishes.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The ‘Hina Matsuri,’ or the Feast of Dolls, takes -place annually on March 3, and lasts about a week. -I remember paying a very interesting visit to the -wife of the late Japanese Minister of Marines in -Tokio, when I was invited to see her little girl’s show -of dolls.</p> - -<p class='c001'>O Haru San--the Honourable Miss Spring--who -was an only child, and adored by her parents, greeted -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>me with charming politeness and dignity, placing -her tiny white hands on her knees and bowing her -head down to the ground. She was a delightful -little creature of eight years of age, very small and -slender, with manners quite equal to the Countess, -her mother, who is one of the most charming women -I have met in the East. O Haru San was dressed -in a fascinating gray silk crape kimono, with -a fold of scarlet crape round the neck and a gold -brocaded obi. Her face and throat were much -whitened, the paint terminating in three points at -the back of the neck; her lips were reddened and -slightly touched with gold. Her hair was drawn -back, raised in front and gathered into a double -loop, into which a band of scarlet crape was twisted. -On her feet she wore ‘tabi,’ little white linen socks -hooked up at the side, with a separate place for the -great toe, and I noticed her little lacquered ‘geta’ -(clogs) were placed neatly together just outside the -door. The whole effect reminded me of an exquisite -wax model, and it was impossible to imagine that -tiny delicate being capable of any mental or physical -exertion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>To my surprise, however, she tripped gaily in -front of me up the wooden staircase and down a -long corridor to a large room where the Hina -Matsuri was being held. She appeared perfectly -at her ease, and chatted away, asking me many -intelligent questions, through the interpreter, about -little English girls, their games, dolls, etc.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>On the landing a dolls’ garden was arranged, with -small houses, bridges, miniature fir-trees--the latter -a great speciality in Japan--a river with real -water, even a minute pond with three gold-fish--the -whole arrangement very artistically planned -and set out. As O Haru San drew back the -lacquered panels of her room, she looked at me -anxiously to see how I should be impressed. I -certainly had no cause to feign surprise. The -sight was a most unusual one. The room was -literally packed with dolls of every sort and description; -almost every nationality was represented, some -nearly life-size, others the length of one’s little -finger; all were arranged in groups, standing, sitting, -propped up against cushions, in every conceivable -attitude.</p> - -<p class='c001'>On a kind of daïs were two dolls on thrones, -representing the Emperor and Empress of Japan. -As far as I could see every doll was in perfect order, -every detail of their costumes correct--no broken -noses, arms, or legs--no pins! Even in the hospital, -where several pale-faced dolls were lying in bed, I -noticed the splints and bandages were not to hide, -but to represent, injuries.</p> - -<p class='c001'>My small hostess darted hither and thither, pointing -out special favourites, rearranging some of the groups -with her delicate little white hands with great care -and precision. I thought of my favourite rag-doll -Sally, with no features and destitute of legs, that I -used to hug in my arms as a child when I went to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>sleep; and I wondered what O Haru San’s feelings -would have been if I had suggested adding that -mutilated remnant to her collection. What havoc a -few English children would have made in that room! -But a Japanese child is perfectly content to look and -admire; and I imagine such a thing as breaking a doll -would be considered almost a crime. Many of these -toys, I was told, were over two hundred years old; -some represented warriors and ‘samuri’ of the seventeenth -century--uniforms, weapons, complete. I -must not forget the dinner-service which was spread -on one of the tables, and from which every day during -the Matsuri food was served to the more important -of the dolls by their young mistress.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How comic it all seemed, and yet how real and -serious it was to little Miss Spring! She told me -that at the end of the week every doll was carefully -wrapped in paper and locked away until the following -year, although one or two special favourites were -occasionally brought out for change of air.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Before leaving O Haru San presented me with -about a thimbleful of tea in a tiny transparent -cup of white and gold, saying in her pretty little -way: ‘This tea is worthless indeed, and green, but -deign to moisten your honourable lips with it.’ I -did as she requested, assuring her that never before -had I tasted its equal in delicious fragrance.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One <em>must</em> be polite to avoid hopelessly disgracing -one’s self in Japanese society.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I felt strongly inclined to kiss the tiny piquant -<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>face, white paint and all, as we said good-bye; but -that would have been far too great a breach of -etiquette to be tolerated by the little lady, who, -bowing low as I left the house, begged ‘to be very -kindly remembered to my most honourable father, -of whom she had heard so much.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>The following extract, taken from a German book -written in 1841, shows us how much importance has -always been attached to the rules of politeness and -etiquette in Japan. It says, speaking of education: -‘Children of the higher orders are carefully instructed -in morals and manners, including the whole science -of good-breeding, the minutest laws of etiquette, and -the forms of behaviour as graduated towards every -individual of the whole human race, by relation, -rank, and station.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>Compulsory education exists all over the country, -even in remote country villages in the interior. A -drum beats at seven o’clock in the morning to -summon the children to school, and if one is energetic -enough to be about at that early hour, one -sees troops of quaint little figures wending their way -to the school-house with satchels on their backs, -very possibly flying kites or spinning tops, according -to the time of year, as they go along.</p> - -<p class='c001'>On a wet morning, instead of the merry little faces, -nothing is visible but a long procession of large -yellow parchment umbrellas, and bare brown legs -and feet. With one hand the kimono is carefully -held up high out of harm’s way, with no respect to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>appearances; in the other hand the children carry -their ‘geta’ (clogs), which are only used in fine -weather.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As Miss Bird says, describing a Japanese school:</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘The model behaviour of the children during school-hours -is quite remarkable; they are so imbued with -the spirit of obedience that their teachers have no -difficulty in securing quiet and attention. In fact, -they are almost too good; and their little old-fashioned -faces look painfully serious sometimes as -they pore over their books or repeat verses and -lessons in their monotonous voices.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>One of their recitations, which I have since seen -translated, ran as follows:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c007'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>‘Colour and perfume vanish away;</div> - <div class='line'>What can be lasting in this world?</div> - <div class='line'>To-day disappears in the abyss of nothingness.</div> - <div class='line'>It is but the passing image of a dream, and causes only a slight trouble.’</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c019'>In other words, ‘vanity of vanities’--a dismal -ditty for young children, but very characteristic of -the spirit of fatalism in the East.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘The penalties for bad conduct used to be a few -blows with a switch on the leg, or a slight burn with -the “moxa” on the forefinger, but now the usual -punishment is detention after school-hours.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘The cost of education is not expensive--from a -halfpenny to three halfpence a month, according to -the means of the parent.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>Besides the national schools, there are many -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>excellent colleges and schools for the children of the -nobles and upper classes in Japan. In Tokio alone -there are military, naval, and engineering colleges, -besides a large University. Japanese students, however, -frequently finish their education at foreign -Universities, where they often take high degrees.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A girl generally leaves school when she is fifteen, -but she continues her studies until she marries. An -important part in her education is the arrangement -of flowers, an art cultivated into a veritable science -in Japan. I was anxious to take a few lessons, but -was told that no satisfactory result could be obtained -under three years’ constant study, so decided to -leave that accomplishment to those who had more -time and patience at their disposal.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I must not forget to mention some of the games -and fêtes which take such an important place in the -lives of Japanese children. I have described the -Hina Matsuri, the festival for girls, which is celebrated -on the 3rd of March. The feast for boys is -held on the 5th of May at the festival of Hachman, -the god of war. The towns and villages on that -date present a most curious spectacle. Where there -are any boys in the family, large, hollow, canvas kites -in the form of a carp are hung at the end of long -poles from every home; the number and size of the -fish corresponding to the number and age of the -boys in the family.</p> - -<p class='c001'>These fish used to be made large enough to carry -a man up in the air, and have been known to be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>employed in time of war to spy into the interior of -an enemy’s castle. On one occasion a robber was -caught by means of their help, and killed, but they -are no longer used for these practices.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The carp is chosen as an emblem at the feast -of boys on account of its strength and power to -swim up against stream. In like manner a boy -is supposed to push his way along the stream of -life and combat difficulties.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There is a very picturesque, and at the same time -curiously pathetic, festival which takes place annually -at the end of August at Nagasaki--the ‘Bon Matsuri,’ -or festival to dead children. Every day during the -week children in gorgeous costumes parade the streets -of the town, carrying fans, banners and lanterns, -collecting subscriptions. On the last day of the -festival, at sunset, whole fleets of little straw sailing-boats, -with food and a light on board each, are -launched on the beach for the souls of the little -children who have died.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How well I remember the scene! The sun was -sinking like a ball of fire into the purple sea, tinging -the mountains, the islands, and the yellow sand a -delicate rose colour.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As far as the eye could reach numberless little -figures were hurrying to and fro on the beach, fitting -out their tiny crafts ready to launch into the water. -As the sun sank behind the horizon the murmur of -many voices broke the stillness, gradually resolving -into a weird incantation, which echoed from hill to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>hill. This was the signal for the lighting and launching -of the boats; a few minutes later, when night -had fallen, the sea seemed ablaze with countless -flickering lights; and on the shore, thousands of -little figures, fast disappearing into the darkness, -could be seen kneeling on the sand offering up their -prayers and petitions for the welfare of the little ones -they had lost, in whose memory the festival had -been celebrated.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Since the opening up of the country to foreigners -and the introduction of Western civilization, many -of the quaint manners and customs in Japan are fast -disappearing, and the Japanese children, especially -in the Treaty-port towns, cannot be said to have -benefited by the change.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Nothing can be more delightful than a Japanese -child with Japanese manners; nothing, I grieve to -say, more objectionable than one with European -manners. Why is it, I wonder, that bad habits are -so much more easily learnt than good ones?</p> - -<p class='c001'>In spite of all this, however, one must admit that -much still remains, especially amongst the girls, of -that grace, that gentle politeness and courtesy, which -has ever given such a charm and attracted one so -much to the children of Japonica.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER VIII <br /> <span class='fss'>SERVANTS IN JAPAN</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Their politeness--Frequency of their baths--Always ready for -a nap--Mrs. Peter Potts.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b098.jpg' width='200' height='225' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -The Japanese make good servants--willing -and obliging -and quick to learn English -ways. They cost very little -to feed, living chiefly on rice -and vegetables, although they -are fond of European food -when they can get it. Their -honesty depends chiefly on -their masters and mistresses. -Where they attach themselves they are faithful and -trustworthy. On the other hand, an unpopular -English house is often servantless, and many are -the stories I have been told, especially in the English -settlements in Yokohama and Kobé, of the extravagance -and theft of the Japanese ‘boy’--a word -always employed in the Far East for all male -servants.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The head boy of our establishment in Tokio, where -<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>we had a house for some time, was a Japanese who -in more prosperous days had been a <em>samuri</em>, or -two-sworded man. He had a fair knowledge of -English, was responsible for the payment of the -weekly bills, looked after the other servants, and -always accompanied us when travelling in the -interior. Yami was a little shrivelled-up-looking -man who might have been any age between thirty-five -and sixty. He possessed a father and mother -<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>as well as a wife and large family, all of whom lived -together in two small rooms in the Japanese quarter -of our house. Except on the occasion of a shock of -earthquake, when the garden seemed full of small -quaintly-robed figures running in every direction, I -saw little or nothing of some of the members of our -household; and on those unpleasant occasions I was -much too agitated to think of anything but my own -safety.</p> - -<div id='b099' class='figcenter id013'> -<img src='images/i_b099.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>JAPANESE SERVANTS.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>The only other time that our domestic staff -appeared in force was on Christmas Day, when my -father summoned everyone to his study, beginning -with Yami and his family down to the rickshaw -and water coolies, their wives and children. There -seemed an endless number of little bowing figures as -they appeared in a long line, all dressed in their best, -and apparently much impressed with the importance -of the occasion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Politeness in Japan is proverbial, and extends to -the lowest classes of the community. However -much Japanese servants are scolded and abused, -they will listen with apparent submission and repentance, -seemingly never taking offence, although they -really hide a good deal of feeling under their -humble demeanour. I have known a servant, after -being severely reprimanded by his master, attempt -to commit suicide. On the other hand, however, -when once roused to hatred, a Japanese is very vindictive -and will stop short of nothing for revenge. -They have, as a nation, wonderful control over their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>feelings, and on no account would they like to appear -anything but happy and contented in public.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I remember one day asking Yami about the health -of his old father, who had not been well. With the -broadest of grins and every sign of pleasure, Yami -told me that only that morning his honourable parent -had ‘condescended to die’ and was about to be -buried that afternoon. He then apologized profusely -for mentioning such a trivial matter. I believe, -as a matter of fact, the death of the old man was -a great grief to his son, as there is much filial -affection existing between parents and children in -Japan.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Yami was very devoted to me, and when travelling -always considered his duties embraced those of maid. -On arriving at our destination, his first thought was -to unpack my clothes and put out on my bed whatever -he considered suitable for me to wear--a somewhat -strange selection occasionally. Wherever we -were staying, he always brought me my morning -cup of tea, saying as he entered the room: ‘Good-morning, -everybody.’ Poor Yami died of pneumonia -just before we left Japan. I went to see him a few -hours before his death. On the floor by his side -were two little wooden frames with photographs of -my father and myself. He was too weak to speak, -but pointed to the photos, and then put his hand to -his heart to show us his affection, poor fellow!</p> - -<p class='c001'>Japanese servants, if left to themselves, are lazy -little beings. Their chief joy in life seems to be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>their bath. How often have I had to wait to go for -my drive until the betto returned from the bathhouse! -Their horror of a drop of rain seems strange, -considering this; but not for one minute will a coolie -continue work in the garden if there is the slightest -indication of wet weather.</p> - -<div id='b102' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b102.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THAT DELIGHTFUL HOTEL IN THE HILLS.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>They are ready to sleep on all possible occasions. -I remember we were staying in a little Japanese -house near Lake Chiunsenji, and having started out -for the day, we left orders that certain things were -to be done in the way of cleaning, during our -absence. We had not left a quarter of an hour, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>when we discovered our lunch-basket had been forgotten, -and my father hastened back to fetch it. On -entering the little hall, he heard a noise proceeding -from a large cupboard in which was a shelf kept for -boots and fishing-tackle. Looking in, he discovered -our four servants--cook, maid, house-boy and water-coolie--all -stretched out on the shelf among the -contents of the cupboard, evidently just preparing for -a pleasant siesta. They scurried away like rabbits -on seeing my father, and seemed overwhelmed with -shame when we spoke to them seriously the next -morning on the sin of laziness.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Some of the nasans at the up-country hotels -are charming little creatures. How well I can still -see the row of merry, laughing faces that always -greeted us when we arrived at the delightful -hotel up at Myanoshita, where we went sometimes -for a change of air and rest after the gaieties of -Tokio. Before we knew it, our muddy boots would -be taken off, warm slippers given us, hot baths -prepared; to say nothing of an excellent meal always -ready at whatever hour we arrived--and all without -any fuss or noise but the patter of small feet up -and down the long corridors, as the little maidens -hastened to do our bidding.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Once or twice at Christmas time, when games were -the order of the evening, we would request the -company of half a dozen of our little handmaidens -to join in a game of ‘hunt the slipper,’ How they -laughed and entered into the fun, and yet never -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>forgot their polite manners, nor failed to treat us -with the greatest deference and respect!</p> - -<p class='c001'>Soon after our arrival in Tokio we had a difficulty -in getting servants, and it was suggested that we -should obtain the services of Mrs. Peter Potts, whose -duties as ‘charwoman’ at the English Legation only -occupied her one day a week. When I first made -the old lady’s acquaintance she was about sixty-five -years old, still hale and hearty, in spite of a somewhat -strong predilection, I grieve to say, for ‘old -Tom.’ Her face always reminded me of a dried -russet apple, furrowed and lined by years of toil and -constant exposure. Her complexion was fresh and -ruddy, and shone from a lavish application of soap-suds -and much polishing. Her scanty gray locks were -generally hidden in the house by a red cotton handkerchief, -tied under the chin, out of doors by an -appalling erection which was once a bonnet, but -which the ravages of time and weather had reduced -to a confused jumble of faded blue velvet, jellow -flowers, and souvenirs from a deceased rooster’s tail.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Her clothes, though shabby through much wear -and faded from many introductions to the wash-tub, -were always scrupulously clean and neat. A rusty -black silk dress and mantle, relics of former mistresses, -only appeared at weddings and funerals; -and the wonderful violet silk garment kept expressly -for Royal functions--for the old lady was nothing -if not loyal--was the above-mentioned garment -turned inside out!</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>From many years’ employment at the Legation, -Mrs. Peter Potts had come to consider herself -one of the ‘staff,’ and expected to be treated as such. -Her respect for the authorities, from the English -Minister downwards, was immense, and she had a -scale of reverence with which she greeted them--the -Court curtsey to His Excellency was a sight to be -remembered and wondered at. It could hardly be -properly accomplished in an ordinary-sized room, -although I have seen the old woman, interrupted in -the midst of cleaning a grate, her face and hands -black with soot, rise to her feet, catch a piece of -rough holland apron in either hand, and sweep -backwards across the room in a style a Duchess of -the eighteenth century could not have surpassed.</p> - -<p class='c001'>History, however, relates that a former Minister -many years previously had come under ban of -Mrs. Peter Potts’ displeasure, and, in a moment of -indignation too strong to be suppressed, she grasped -His ‘Excurrency’--as she called His Excellency--by -the beard and shook it violently, much to -the great man’s surprise and alarm. Since then, -either the Corps Diplomatique became more cautious -as to their dealings with their ‘colleague,’ or our -friend learnt prudence with age. In any case, of -late years the Legation has had no firmer ally than -Mrs. Potts. ‘I allus makes my h’inclinations to -them of the Corps ’cause I knows my dooty, Miss,’ -she said to me one day.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The late lamented Mr. Peter Potts had departed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>this life some years before our arrival in Japan. He -was a pensioner, having been sent out as gate-keeper -to the Legation, then in Yokohama, early in the -sixties. Mrs. Potts surrounded the memory of her -‘poor Peter’ with such a halo of romance, and -attributed his death to such a marvellous number -of mortal diseases, that the ex-sergeant of Marines -became a glorified figure in her imagination. As -a matter of fact, I believe he was a weak sort of -creature, very hen-pecked, who died from too great -an affection to the gin bottle.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Mrs. Potts has no family living, and seems to -rejoice in the fact.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘I did once ’ave a little bit of a thing not worth -mentioning, but, thank the Lord, it was took arter -three days. My mother, she ’ad eleven of us, pore -soul! all told, and I was the only one as lived to grow -up. I was a twin, too, and born with three teeth, -and they do say as ’ow they allus are vixens--I -know I was when a gal.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>She treated our little Japanese maid-servants with -condescension and secret contempt. How could -anyone under sixty know how to do things in the -proper way?</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘It’s comfort, not style, as you wants, my good -young lidy,’ she would say as she bustled about. -‘Them slips of Jap things can’t know your ways as -I does.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>Once a week she used to have her mid-day meal -with us, and a glass of stout. Then how her tongue -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>would wag! I asked her one day how she had -enjoyed her dinner.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Why, miss, I fancied as ’ow I was at the Gilt -’All (Guild Hall). Them young gals was that -pressing I thought as ’ow I should never ’ave -done.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>The memories of her early courtship and marriage -always brought a blush to her withered cheek, as -she would tell us how she met her ‘pore Peter,’ for -the first time, on the Thames Embankment--‘Jist -by one of them little trees in cages, you know, my -good young lidy.’ (This, you will remember, -was forty years ago; the trees have grown since -then.) ‘He did look a proper dook, did Peter, in ’is -red uniform--the dead split of the Colonel ’e were.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>They were married at the Tower, and soon afterwards -came out to Japan, Mrs. Potts as temporary -maid to the wife of the English Minister.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Law, miss,’ she said to me one day, ‘His Excurrency -used to get real Victoria Cross sometimes, -and stamp, ’e did, fit to scare you into next week, -but ’e was a kind master, ’e was. He’d say, “Come -along, Mrs. Potts, and choose a drink for yourself,” -and when I said I kind o’ fancied a glass o’ beer, -he’d go and draw it with ’is own ’ands, ’e would.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>The old lady had a great admiration for my father. -I overheard her saying to Yami one day: ‘I think -as ’ow the master represents the one from above. -He’s no respecter of persons, ’e isn’t, but treats -us all alike--so perlite and consid’rate, ’e is. He -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>says, “Thank you, Mrs. Potts,” as if I was a -Duchess, he do.‘</p> - -<p class='c001'>She was a perfect walking <cite>Court Circular</cite>. Every -event connected with Royalties was of the greatest -personal interest to her, and she invariably took a -holiday to celebrate any Royal birthday, and hung a -little Union Jack out of her cottage window. Just -before the Coronation of the King we were all busy -preparing for the festivities, but for some reason best -known to herself Mrs. Potts refused to share in the -general rejoicings, although as a rule she was the -gayest of the gay on these occasions.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘I don’t somehow feel like jubilating, my dears,’ -was all she would say.</p> - -<p class='c001'>When the news of the King’s illness reached Tokio, -she said to my father, ‘You see, sir, I ’ad a “presentimum” -that there was something wrong, and I -thank the Lord that I wasn’t thinking of merry-making -with His Blessed Majesty ill-a-bed and like -to die.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>Whether this was a strange coincidence, or second -sight I know not, but it was a fact.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER IX <br /> <span class='fss'>SOME FESTIVALS AND A FUNERAL</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>The Imperial Silver Wedding--Parade of the troops--The -wedding feast--The Chinese ball in Tokio--A gay assembly--A -Royal funeral--Strange customs.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b109.jpg' width='225' height='144' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi0_9'> -It seems curious at first to -think of an Emperor with -six wives having a silver -wedding, but, as I have -previously mentioned, His -Majesty has but one wife -who is recognised officially--the present Empress of -Japan. My father and I were staying at Tokio at -the time of this ceremony, and were fortunate in -receiving invitations, as, out of the three thousand -guests invited to the palace, only about a hundred -were foreigners.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The event caused great excitement in the capital, -for the Japanese are most loyal and devoted subjects. -Every street was decorated with flags and garlands -of flowers, whilst on the auspicious day, March the -9th, everyone donned their best attire and there -was a public holiday all over Japan. Thousands of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>peasants came from the country on the chance of -getting a glimpse at the ‘Ruler of the Rising Sun,’ -who was to review his troops on the parade-ground -just outside the walls of the city. The cherry and -peach trees were also <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>en fête</em></span> for the occasion, their -pink and white blossoms adding much to the charm -of the scene, whilst the wind scattered their petals on -the passers-by, covering the ground like newly-fallen -snow. By two o’clock over ten thousand troops had -assembled, as smart and well-turned-out a set of -men as one could wish to see. The cavalry left -something to be desired, as the horses were small -and mostly in poor condition, but they are strong, -willing little beasts, and very serviceable for rough-riding.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Three large tents had been erected on the parade-ground, -one for the Royal party, another for the -staff and Ministers of State, and the third for the -Corps Diplomatique and a few favoured foreigners.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At mid-day a loud fanfare of trumpets was heard, -the massed bands struck up the Japanese National -Anthem and the Royal procession arrived in sight. -The Emperor and Empress were in a golden coach -drawn by six horses, followed by eight other carriages -containing Royalties and officials. As usual, on their -arrival there was dead silence, and their Majesties’ -expressions were perfectly impassive, as if carved in -stone; in fact, during the whole afternoon and the -march-past of the troops, I never saw a smile or the -slightest sign of interest on either of those statuesque -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span><a id='corr110.1'></a><span class='htmlonly'><ins class='correction' title='faces'>faces.</ins></span><span class='epubonly'><a href='#c_110.1'><ins class='correction' title='faces'>faces.</ins></a></span> When the review was over, we had barely -time to rush back to the hotel to dress for the -banquet and reception at the Palace. On this important -occasion I wore my first Court train, and very -proud I felt as I drove off with my father in the -carriage.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Palace grounds were brilliantly lighted by -thousands of coloured lanterns and little lamps. As I -stepped out of the brougham into the large entrance-hall, -where already many of the guests had assembled, -and had my train arranged by two of the gold-laced -attendants, I felt as if I were living in some other age, -being no longer only an English country girl, but -some Japanese Princess of old Japan.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After passing down endless corridors brilliantly lit -with countless candles, along highly polished and -very slippery floors, we arrived at the banqueting-hall. -I presently found myself sitting with the -Chinese Minister, Mr. Wong, on my right and a -little Japanese Admiral on my left. My father was -some way down on the other side.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It was a never-to-be-forgotten sight. Over five -hundred guests were present, seated at long tables, -which were exquisitely decorated with orchids, roses, -ferns, and every kind of fruit in silver dishes. All -the dinner-service was also of solid silver. At one -end of the hall, a little raised and apart, sat the -Emperor and Empress. The latter wore a European -dress of rich white satin embroidered all over with -silver; and masses of priceless diamonds were round -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>her neck and in her dress. On her head was a -small crown studded with precious stones. On -either side sat the Royal Princes and Princesses; -they all wore the Grand Cross Order of Japan--a -broad orange and white ribbon. Every conceivable -uniform seemed to be represented--Diplomats, -Generals, Admirals, and a few foreigners in Court -dress.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The dinner lasted nearly three hours, and, to judge -by the manner His Excellency Mr. Wong appreciated -every dish, it must have been a very good one. -Mr. Wong was a tall, oldish man with a shrewd, -parchment-like face. He spoke English well and -said he was a natural philosopher. He had gorgeous -brocades and thick furs lining his long robes. I asked -him why he did not wear these brocades outside -at night for variety, which idea seemed much to -amuse him. He told me his jade ring was worth -five thousand dollars. It certainly was a lovely -green stone.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The little Japanese Admiral, who spoke no -English, tried to entertain me by making all sorts of -figures out of his bread. At each course he asked -for a fresh roll, and, by the end of dinner, we had an -array of minute bread soldiers, ladies and animals on -the table before us, really most cleverly contrived.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Before the banquet was half finished I felt I could -eat no more, but my two neighbours seemed so -distressed when I passed a dish, that I felt obliged -to taste everything.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>Each guest had before his plate a stork made of solid -silver, beautifully chased, standing on a little silver -box, with two tortoises at the foot, also in silver. -These were presented by their Majesties as souvenirs -of their silver wedding. The stork is the emblem -of happiness in Japan and the tortoise of long life. -Before leaving, we were also presented with silver -medals, coined especially for the occasion with an -inscription, and enclosed in a black and silver -lacquer box.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After the banquet we went to the throne-room, -where seats were arranged for two thousand guests, -many being present who had not attended the dinner. -There was a stage, and some very curious acting -was performed--old Japanese plays, with weird -Japanese music, which resembled cats on a roof -more than anything I have ever heard.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The solemnity of the large audience, the weird -acting and the appalling music suddenly inspired me -with a wild desire to laugh, and I only saved myself -from disgrace by bending my head low and trying -to think of everything sad I could recollect. It was -no use; I was rapidly becoming hysterical, when a -kind little Japanese lady, thinking I was feeling faint, -offered me her scent-bottle. This restored me to -my senses, and I repressed my feelings until the end -of the entertainment.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Emperor and Empress were present, sitting -in state together on their thrones. During the whole -performance they hardly moved a muscle of their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>faces, the sign of high breeding in Japan, but the -poor Empress looked very pale and exhausted before -the end, and neither she nor the Emperor attended -the supper to which we were all bidden before -leaving the palace.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Truly it was a strange and unique ceremony.</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>Another entertainment of interest to which we went -some time later was a ball given at the Chinese Legation -by their Excellencies the Minister and Lady Yü, -who had succeeded my old friend and philosopher, -Mr. Wong, in Tokio. Looking at the large cosmopolitan -company gathered together, all apparently -on the most friendly and cordial terms, it was hard -to believe that there had ever been war between -China and Japan, or that even then there were -strained relations between several of the countries -whose representatives were there on apparently the -most friendly and cordial terms. However, I suppose -even the most zealous statesman must at times put -aside his official capacity and yield to the enjoyment -of the moment, and this they certainly seemed to be -doing on the present occasion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The Chinese Legation is a large European building -of red brick, commanding one of the best -situations in Tokio. But for its yellow flag flying -aloft on fête-days and a few Chinese ‘monban,’ or -guards, at the gates, there is nothing to distinguish -it from any of the other official residences in the -capital. The Legation is furnished in European -<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>style, with curtains and coverings of bright-coloured -brocades, and has a large ball-room, with a parquet -floor and electric light. On this important evening -the walls were decorated with Chinese weapons and -flags, arranged very effectively. The guests, who -numbered between two and three hundred, arrived -shortly after nine o’clock; they included nearly all -the Japanese Ministers of State and high officials, -the various Corps Diplomatiques and their staffs, the -Russian Admiral and a number of Russian officers, -and also the greater part of the foreign community of -Tokio.</p> - -<p class='c001'>On arrival, we were met at the entrance by an -imposing group of Chinese officials, who escorted us -two by two across the hall and up a long flight of -stairs to the dressing-room. After delivering over -our cloaks and wraps to the quaintest and most -picturesque-looking little maid-servants, we were -marched arm in arm solemnly in procession downstairs -to the drawing-room, where the Minister and -Lady Yü were waiting to receive us. Lady Yü -wore a European dress of violet satin and lace, and -had a Court train trimmed with ostrich-feathers; -although she is usually seen in her national costume. -She is a nice-looking woman, with a kind, pleasant -face. By birth she is American-Japanese, her father -having married and settled in Shanghai. Her two -daughters, Miss Lizzie and Miss Nelly Yü, were also -in European dresses of white silk. They are bright-looking -girls, very popular in Tokio society. All -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>three speak English fluently. The Minister, however, -speaks only Chinese, but, I believe, understands -a good deal of the conversation going on around -him. He is a native of the province of Manchu, in -the North of China, and, like most of the inhabitants -of that part of the country, is above the average height -and a powerfully-made man. He adheres entirely to -his Chinese dress, and was attired in a long coat of -yellow brocade, lined with white Mongolian fur.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There are two sons, the eldest about twenty-one -years of age, who is already married, and is a proud -father--the other a boy of about seventeen. They -both seemed thoroughly to enjoy the dancing, -although their long satin petticoats and curious high -shoes must have been somewhat inconvenient. They -are being educated by French and English governesses, -and one of them confided to me that his -mother fines him 10 sen (= 2½d.) whenever he speaks -Chinese!</p> - -<p class='c001'>A number of Chinese guests were present, their -gorgeous, embroidered garments adding much to the -general effect of the ballroom, as did also the gay -uniforms of the various naval and military officers. -There was a curious mixture of costumes. Chinese in -Chinese dress, Chinese in European dress, Japanese -<span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>à l’Anglaise</em></span>, Japanese <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>à la Japonaise</em></span>, and Europeans -in every imaginable combination of colour and style; -some toilettes as much ‘up-to-date’ as the distance -from the land of fashions permitted, others evidently -desirous of striking out a line of their own. One -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>American lady had actually draped herself in a -Japanese kimono, but in a way that no Japanese -lady would dream of appearing. I also noticed a -German lady in a dress of pure white.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Perhaps, however, they imagined it was a fancy-dress -ball! Contrary to the Chinese dress, which -is a combination of the most vivid colouring, the -Japanese ladies over twenty--in fact, even younger--wear -nothing but the most sober colours--grays, -drabs, fawns; and the elderly ladies are generally -seen in black, the only adornment being their crest -embroidered on the back of their kimonos. The -men and boys wear gray, dark blue, and black -ukatas.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The cotillon was led by Miss Yü and a secretary -of the Russian Legation, and included some pretty -and original figures. The Russian <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><em>contredanses</em></span> -seemed to be especially appreciated, and the fun had -waxed fast and furious towards the small hours of -the morning when we took our departure. In fact, -the ball was a great success in every way, and the -general originality of the entertainment added much -to its charm.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Some of the guests were a little disappointed in -not having a real Chinese supper; but when I -mention a few of the palatable dishes that were -served to us at a Chinese dinner at which we -were once present, I think you will agree with me -that we had a lucky escape.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The chief dainties at that delectable feast--which, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>by-the-by, lasted three hours and a half--were -swallows’-nest soup, a very expensive dish, I believe; -sharks’ fins, more or less eatable; eggs, which had -been buried for several months and had become the -consistency and colour of old Stilton cheese; and -many other similar dainties which I fail to remember, -but all swimming in the inevitable and savoury -Chinese sauce made of pig and goose fat. Of course, -tastes differ, but I own to preferring the more commonplace -chicken-and-ham supper menu to the above -delicacies.</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>Another ceremony of a very different character at -which I was soon afterwards present, was the Shinto -funeral of His Imperial Highness Prince Arizugawa, -uncle to the present Emperor. There is a most -remarkable custom in Japan--that any person of -Royal blood who dies away from home must have his -death concealed until his body can be removed to his -own palace. On this occasion, for several days after -the Prince’s death was an open secret, official bulletins -were issued describing his condition as very critical. -On the arrival of the coffin at the Imperial Palace in -Tokio, however, his death was publicly announced -to have taken place--quite a week later than was -really the case.</p> - -<p class='c001'>By an early hour the streets of Tokio were thronged -with an expectant crowd, all in their best attire--a -picturesque gathering, very different from our sober-coloured -crowd in England. Death to a Japanese -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>does not inspire the same dread and awe with which -we are accustomed to associate it.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The day was all one could desire--one of those -brilliant frosty days which make the winter of -Japan so delightful. The funeral procession left the -palace about 9 a.m., preceded by a large number -of mounted troops; and the roads were lined by -the infantry to keep back the crowd. Not wishing -to follow the procession at a foot-pace for over -two hours--the Imperial burial-ground being nearly -five miles from the Prince’s palace--my father and -I started an hour later and, driving by a shortcut, -reached our destination in good time. Only -those having tickets were admitted into the Temple -grounds, but there was a very large gathering--almost -every nation being represented. The gay uniforms -of the Japanese Officials, Admirals, and Generals; the -entire Corps Diplomatique, Consuls from Yokohama, -the officers from the Russian and German men-of-war, -and the Chinese and Koreans in their quaint -dress, all formed a brilliant gathering, standing out -against the dark background of the great cryptomeria -trees.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Several ladies were present, all in deep mourning; -among them we noticed two of the Royal Princesses. -Refreshments were provided in a small Japanese -house in the grounds; and the hot coffee and sandwiches -seemed much appreciated by many who had -come up by an early train from Yokohama that -morning. As the faint notes of the bugle announced -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>the approach of the procession, we all formed into -a long line near the entrance-gate.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The priests walked first, arrayed in white silk -kimonos, with curious erections of stiff black silk -on their heads, somewhat resembling the helmet -of Britannia. Then followed the choir, playing a -weird incantation on their curious instruments. As -I have said before, those who have not heard -Japanese music can hardly realize how utterly -unlike it is to the music of the West. Harmony it -has none, and the wailing, dirge-like sounds are -somewhat trying to the uninitiated. Notwithstanding, -I noticed a solemn dignity in the mournful -strains which had never struck me before.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Great numbers of wreaths, also enormous erections -of artificial and natural flowers in bamboo stands, -were carried by men in white cloaks. Some of -these offerings were over twelve feet in height and -required two men to carry them. These were -followed by the late Prince’s servants, his horses, -then more priests--one carrying on a wooden stand -a pair of shoes for the use of the departed spirit on -its journey to Paradise or Hades, as the case might -be. Then came the coffin, enclosed in a plain white -wood sarcophagus, from which appeared a piece of -the sleeve of the dead Prince’s kimono, which, I -must own, produced a most uncanny effect.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A Shinto corpse is always buried in a sitting -position, fully dressed, with head bent to the knees -in attitude of prayer. The coffin was carried by a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>dozen men, all in white and bare-headed. Young -Prince Arizugawa followed immediately after his -father’s coffin. He was in old Court dress--a petticoat -of black silk, very full, giving the appearance of -a divided skirt and a white silk kimono. He carried -a long, narrow piece of wood, which he held in front -of him, on which, doubtless, were inscribed prayers. -His head-dress was somewhat similar to that worn -by the priests, but at the back of the head was -fastened a large black wire hoop covered with silk. -In appearance the Prince is a small man, even for -a Japanese, but very dignified in manner, with a -clever, rather sad face. The ceremony must have -been a trying one for him, as he marched on foot in -the centre of the procession from one end of Tokio -to the other, and the Shinto funeral rites, as far as -the immediate relatives of the dead are concerned, -compelled them to remain by the coffin until after -sunset.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Princess Arizugawa, the Empress’s messenger -and the late Prince’s mother were also in old -Japanese Court dress--enormous trousers of bright-red -material and white silk kimonos. Their hair -was dressed in the most fantastic style, part of it -standing out on either side of the head in stiff wings, -the back view of the head resembling a heart in -shape, the rest of the hair falling loosely down the -back. The poor little ladies seemed to experience -some difficulty in walking in their high clogs and -stiff trousers. I imagine they must prefer even -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>European dress to this quaint, but unpractical -style.</p> - -<p class='c001'>After waiting about an hour, while the coffin and -floral offerings were being arranged, we were conducted -to the other end of the Temple grounds, -where a temporary altar had been erected. The -priests, who were eight in number, after clapping -their hands before the altar to call the attention -of the gods and bowing to the ground repeatedly, -chanted several long prayers, and the choir again -began its dirge-like wailing. Then the priests in turn -placed a small white wooden stand in front of the -altar-steps, on each of which was a dish containing -different sorts of food. First, two fish were presented, -then a pair of wild duck, game, meat, rice, -bread, fruits, and lastly, a bottle of saké. Food is -always offered at a Shinto funeral for use of the -spirit of the departed, who is supposed to travel for -fifty days before his fate is finally decided by the -gods; and during that period prayers are incessantly -offered up by the priests and the family of the -deceased until the fiftieth day, when judgment is -supposed to be pronounced as to his future state.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Before leaving, each guest in turn, beginning with -the messengers of the Emperor and Empress, placed -before the coffin a small branch of a tree, from which -hung strips of white paper cut into little angular -bunches, intended to represent the offerings of cloth -which in ancient days were tied to the branches of -the ‘cleyera’ tree in festival time. When our turn -<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>came, over a hundred branches had been presented, -and, on leaving, we passed a large crowd with their -offerings in their hands. The whole ceremony was -exceedingly simple. Indeed, the chief characteristic -of the Shinto religion is its simplicity; and ‘to follow -the dictates of your own conscience and to obey the -Mikado’ embraces the whole of its religious teaching. -The present religion of the country is Shinto, but -many of the Buddhist ceremonies have become -mingled with it, although each religion has its distinctive -marks.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id014'> -<img src='images/i_b123.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER X <br /> <span class='fss'>CHANG, MY CHOW</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>His first appearance--Adventures and mishaps--Companions -in Hospital--Chang goes to Church--Facing the enemy.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b124.jpg' width='175' height='361' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -Among all the reminiscences of -my life in Japan I think those -in which my Chinese chow dog -played a part are perhaps the -most vivid in my memory.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We had some good times -together, Chang and I, and I -fear the chief blame lies at his -mistress’s door for not training -him up in the way he should -go. But who can teach a chow -what he doesn’t want to learn? -A cleverer person than I.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How well I remember Chang’s -first appearance on the scene--a -Sunday afternoon in Tokio. -Enter Yami, very hot and agitated, holding a -struggling yellow ball in his arms. Here was the -much-longed-for chow puppy, sent me by a friend -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>from Hong Kong. What a queer little chap he -was, with his bright brown eyes and black tongue. -Exceedingly dirty, too, I am sorry to have to -confess, in spite of several baths on his arrival at -Yokohama, to which I was told he much objected.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As Chang grew up he became the very finest -chow dog seen out of China. What high-class -specimens may be reserved for the special consumption -of the yellow-jacketed and peacock-befeathered -Chinese mandarin I know not, but in the ‘Land of -the Rising Sun’ he decidedly held his own.</p> - -<div id='b125' class='figcenter id015'> -<img src='images/i_b125.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THREE FRIENDS (<em>p.</em> 127).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Which reminds me--and I have it on the best -authority, that of His Excellency Mr. Wong, late -Chinese Minister in Tokio, since beheaded--that -chow dogs are <em>not</em> eaten in China.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I had two little Japanese chins at that time--Yum-Yum -and Dodo--which ran Chang very close -in my affections. What pretty little things they -were! Yum-Yum, no bigger than a fair-sized kitten, -but almost human in intelligence and powers of -affection, with her pretty little bird-like ways. I -fancy even Chang’s stony heart now and then felt a -pang of jealousy when he saw her sitting on my -shoulder, nibbling a bit of lettuce, or chin-chinning -to an admiring audience on the dining-room table -for a grape or wee bit of apple.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Then the fat, sturdy Dodo too, with his long, -black-and-white, silky coat and inquiring mind. I -can see him now, gazing, with head on one side, like -a pert cock-robin, at that funny, immovable little -<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>policeman outside the gates. I sometimes almost -wondered myself if that small wooden figure were -really alive, or only a dummy in uniform and sword, -for surely it would have made a cat laugh to see -Dodo’s never-ending astonishment and curiosity.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One constant source of excitement in Chang’s life -at Tokio were the black crows. What games he -used to play with them, feigning sleep, until those -wary thieves would venture to make a raid on a half-finished -bone; then up he would jump, and a mad -chase would follow. But those wily old birds somehow -always got the best of it, and would sit, cawing -away triumphantly, in the twisted pine-tree just out -of his reach.</p> - -<p class='c001'>But Chang was a great source of anxiety to me -sometimes in those days, to say nothing of expense. -Only the other evening, looking over some old papers, -I came across the following bill, for which he is -responsible:</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='sc'>Bill for Medical Treatment of the Chow Dog.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='66%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Consultation</td> - <td class='c014'>1 yen.</td> - <td class='c013'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Examination</td> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c013'>75 sen.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Operation</td> - <td class='c014'>2 yen</td> - <td class='c013'>25 sen.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'>Lodging, milk-and-egg diet for above-named animal during one month</td> - <td class='c014'>4 yen</td> - <td class='c013'>50 sen.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'> </td> - <td class='c013' colspan='2'>‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒‒</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c020'>Total</td> - <td class='c014'>8 yen</td> - <td class='c013'>50 sen.<a id='rD' /><a href='#fD' class='c017'><sup>[D]</sup></a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c012'> </td> - <td class='c013' colspan='2'>‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c020'><em>First-class Veterinary Institution,</em></td> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c013'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c020'><em>Komobar, Tokio.</em></td> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c013'> </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class='c018' /> -<div class='footnote' id='fD'> -<p class='c001'><a href='#rD'>D</a>. Equals about 17s. 6d.</p> -</div> -<hr class='c018' /> - -<div id='b129' class='figcenter id007'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span> -<img src='images/i_b129.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE GARDEN OF THE LITTLE TEA-HOUSE (<em>p.</em> 131).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Ah! had it not been for the kind care and skill -of those clever little Japs, he would not now be -basking in luxury by the fire.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One day I found him lying, to all appearance, dead -under the pink camellia-bush in the garden of that -little tea-house far away from Tokio in the interior -where we were staying. What could be the matter?</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Poison, evidently,’ suggested one would-be comforter. -Had he not barked at that melancholy-looking -individual, who had apparently come to this -far-off, secluded spot, in search of quiet and repose? -No wonder, then, a foreigner’s dog--and such a dog--should -be quietly, but surely, condemned!</p> - -<p class='c001'>I was in despair. What was to be done?</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Consult a city magistrate?’ There was no city, -and certainly no magistrate.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘The village doctor’--brilliant suggestion from -our faithful interpreter, Idaka. A rickshaw was -summoned, and with many injunctions and--let me -confess--a few tears, the poor, unconscious treasure -was sent off in Yami’s watchful charge.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Three hours’ waiting, whilst a long line of patient -and sick little Japanese went up for consultation to -the kind old ‘isha-san’ (doctor), who lived in the -little wooden house at the end of the narrow street, -with the big tiger-lily before the door. There he sat -upon his mat on the floor, clad in his blue kimono, -with spectacles and pipe, waiting to receive his -patients, with a little brass hibatchi burning away -beside him.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>Chang’s pulse and tongue having been both -examined, Yami was given a small cardboard box -containing six minute pills.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘One every two hours until the patient is better.’ -By mistake the pills all falling into his bread-and-milk, -were swallowed in one dose, but fortunately -no fatal result ensued.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next day we returned to Tokio. How were -we to dispose of the poor suffering one during the -four hours’ rickshaw drive? Finally Chang was rolled -up in a rug at my feet and all went well for the first -twelve miles or so, when our rickshaw coolie in the -shafts took it into his head to bolt down a steep hill. -Result, a smash--a confused heap of mistress and -dog on the ground, a broken-kneed coolie, to say -nothing of the telescoping of the other rickshaws in -the rear, which, not being able to stop in their -downward course, were literally jammed together, -the shafts of one going straight through the back of -the one in front. Stiff and shaken as I was, I have -seldom laughed more than at the sight the unfortunate -occupants presented in their original -prison. However, after some difficulty, at last we -arrived home, and the next day Chang was sent off -to that most excellent Japanese institution, the -Komobar, where, after a month’s residence and the -previously mentioned bill, he returned home convalescent, -not, however, in his former unblemished -condition. Having had inflammation of both lungs, -it was thought necessary to blister his sides, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>absence of hair was replaced by a blue linen wadded -coat, tied on with tape, and with two holes for the -front-legs.</p> - -<div id='b133' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b133.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE KIND OLD ‘ISHA-SAN’ (<em>p.</em> 131).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Poor Chang, how he hated being the laughing-stock -of those odious curs in the neighbourhood. -But we tried our best to console him by making him -a coat of yellow iron-cloth, which we likened to -the late Li Hung Chang’s renowned yellow jacket.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Chang’s little friends, the Japanese spaniels, were -also his companions in hospital. Strange to say, -about this time Dodo caught small-pox, or what -Dr. Hitchikito pronounced to be such, and was -promptly bundled off to the hospital for a three-weeks’ -residence in a large wicker cage, with strict -quarantine, whence he returned somewhat thinner, -but just as pompous as ever.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Little Yum-Yum’s illness was of a different nature. -During our absence from Tokio she pined to such an -extent that her little brain could no longer stand the -strain, and she developed brain-fever. We received -one morning a frantic telegram from the cook to -say ‘Yum-Yum seriously ill; under treatment.’ On -our return, we found the patient better, looking -very interesting, lying in a small brown basket -before the kitchen fire. She had sufficient strength -to give a weak little bark of joy, and feebly lick -our hands with her tiny red tongue. We were told -she had literally been packed in ice to reduce the -fever, until her silken coat stood out stiff and -straight like frozen snow.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>They are clever men those Japanese veterinaries. -Where else in the world would an animal have been -treated in that scientific and up-to-date fashion?</p> - -<p class='c001'>I think there were moments when Chang must -have been possessed of an evil spirit, otherwise what -can have put it into his disobedient head to follow -me to church one Sunday morning, in spite of strict -orders to remain at home?</p> - -<p class='c001'>After he had been three times removed from the -aisle by the irate churchwarden, I was at last -obliged to escort him myself to what I thought was -a safe distance, and, leaving him trotting sadly away -up the little path towards the house, I returned to -church and my devotions quite happy in my mind.</p> - -<p class='c001'>All went well until the sermon. The curate was -just going up into the pulpit when I saw him -suddenly start back, very nearly falling over as he -did so, and then beckon to one of the choir-boys. -An animated discussion followed, then the boy, -looking somewhat pale, mounted the steps, dived -down into the pulpit, and, to my horror, I saw -Chang being dragged out, much against his will, -looking extremely cross, but otherwise perfectly -regardless of the commotion he was causing.</p> - -<p class='c001'>When he had been safely marched out through -the vestry, and the door firmly closed, the service -was resumed, but I noticed that the sermon was -somewhat dogmatic that morning. A thousand -pardons!</p> - -<div id='b137' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b137.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE LITTLE HOUSE IN THE FOREST (<em>p.</em> 139).</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>On investigation, I discovered that Chang, as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>soon as my back was turned, had followed me quietly -at some little distance, and, entering the church -unperceived by the vestry door, decided to take his -morning nap on the pulpit mat until it should be -time to escort me home.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The next morning I received a polite note from -the curate asking me kindly to abstain in future -from bringing my dog to church, as, although he -admired him immensely, he thought a dog a somewhat -disturbing element on such occasions. In -future, on Sunday mornings, before our departure to -church, the offender was firmly secured to the leg of -the kitchen table, and we had no more startling -apparitions to distract us.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I think life would have been quite ideal in our -summer quarters at Karuizawa had it not been for -that odious black chow that lived in the other little -house in the forest, just across the stream down -below.</p> - -<p class='c001'>He was not to be compared to Chang in beauty, -and, I must confess, in a tooth-to-tooth fight, Chang -invariably got the worst of it. After a daily encounter -on neutral grounds, affairs reached a crisis when, -one day, in a fit of bravado, my hero ventured into the -enemy’s camp, and a terrific and sanguinary battle -followed. In one last, desperate struggle, they fell -together into the gold-fish pond, and were only -rescued from a watery grave by the gallant exertions -of the black chow’s master, who dragged them out -dripping, half dead, but still locked in a deadly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>embrace, only to be loosened by the repeated application -of buckets of water and finally pepper on their -respective noses.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The appearance of my friend for the next few days -resembled that of a victim to mumps, combined with -a black and swollen eye and a somewhat mangy -condition of his naturally glossy coat.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Even that, alas! did not cure Chang’s pugilistic -tendencies. How often has he returned home a -sadder, though I fear not a wiser, dog! On one -occasion with but three sound legs; on another, with -a hole the size of a bullet-wound in his throat from -a mastiff’s fang. But enough of these painful reflections.</p> - -<div id='b140' class='figcenter id016'> -<img src='images/i_b140.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>CHANG’S FIRST APPEARANCE.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER XI <br /> <span class='fss'>FURTHER ADVENTURES OF CHANG</span></h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c021'> - <div>The tale of a tub--Sayonara--Board-ship acquaintance--Queer company.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c022'><a id='b141'></a></p> -<div class='float-left c023'> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='100%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='1'><span class='htmlonly'><img class="inline" src="images/i_b141.jpg" alt="b141" /></span><span class='epubonly'><img class="inline" src="images/i_b141e.jpg" alt="b141" /></span></td></tr> - <tr><td class='c011' colspan='1'>YUM-YUM AND DODO.</td></tr> -</table> - -</div> -<p class='drop-capi1_0'>There is one more reminiscence -of that happy summer -I must recall; I recollect it -very nearly ended disastrously -for my hero.</p> - -<p class='c024'>We started one morning -at sunrise, a party of four -foreigners, twelve coolies, a -guide, and one wildly-excited -yellow dog, to the little -island of M----, where there -is a curious old monastery inhabited -by Buddhist monks. -After a steep descent of nearly two hours, we reached -the valley, and drove off gaily, three coolies to each -rickshaw, two pulling tandem in front and one -pushing behind.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Our road lay close along the coast: on one side -the blue waters of the Inland Sea, with the waves -<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>rippling upon the yellow sand; on the other, the -green rice-fields, with the women hard at work at -their monotonous labour, looking, nevertheless, very -picturesque in their short blue linen kimonos and -white handkerchiefs tied over their black hair. A -peculiarity we noticed in this locality was that the -female portion of the population seemed to do all -the work. Women, mares, and cows are be seen -everywhere as beasts of burden, whereas the masculine -element appears to enjoy comparative leisure.</p> - -<p class='c024'>This is by the way, however.</p> - -<p class='c024'>After a three hours’ ride, at the rate of about five -and a half to six miles an hour, during which time -the sun had risen and become very powerful, whilst -we felt the change from the invigorating mountain -air we had come from, we at last arrived at a small -and exceedingly dirty tea-house. The first stuff they -brought us we could not drink. It was only daikon, -our guide assured us; wholesome possibly, but very -nasty.</p> - -<p class='c024'>After partaking of some honourable tea and being -supplied with ‘waragi’ (straw sandals) and long sticks, -as the road was bad, we left our jinrickshaws and -coolies to wait our return, and started off on foot.</p> - -<p class='c024'>The island is only accessible at low tide, so we -waited patiently on the beach for an hour, and -watched the innumerable little ‘sampans,’ with their -curious square sails, plying their way through the surf.</p> - -<p class='c024'>As soon as the tide was sufficiently low, we were -carried across to the island on the backs of some -<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>funny brown-skinned fishermen--an experience more -exciting than comfortable.</p> - -<div id='b143' class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_b143.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE MONASTERY IN THE ROCK.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c024'>Then up the narrow street, with quaint little -shops on either side, where we spent all our ‘sens’ -buying curious shell ornaments, dried sea-horses and -endless rubbish; and where I distinguished myself -by purchasing what I fondly imagined to be the red, -painted shell of a small crab. On putting it, for -safety, in the crown of my hat, I discovered, to my -<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>horror, the brute was still alive and capable of using -its claws!</p> - -<p class='c024'>Then a steep climb up the rocks, at every turn -getting the most glorious peeps of the sea down -below, until we arrived, hot and breathless, at the -monastery. There we found two smiling monks, ‘all -shaven and shorn,’ standing at the door waiting to -receive us, who begged us ‘to be kind enough to -favour their wretched dwelling by reposing our -honourable forms on a mat.’ In a weak moment, -I suggested a bath, always a great institution in -Japan on every possible occasion, and our guide, -translating my request to the monks, was informed -that one should be prepared immediately for the -‘ojo-sama’ (honourable young lady) at whatever -temperature she required.</p> - -<p class='c024'>In the meantime, we decided to climb to the topmost -rock and inspect the view. On our return, I -was told that my bath was ready, and, with many -smiles and the lowest of bows, I was conducted by -two of the monks to a large open quadrangle, in the -centre of which was a big wooden tub, about four -feet high, out of which clouds of steam were issuing. -Groups of monks stood about the quadrangle. -The advent of visitors was a great event in their -monotonous lives and the idea that I might not -appreciate their presence had not occurred to them -for a moment.</p> - -<p class='c024'>What on earth was I to do?</p> - -<p class='c024'>I explained as well as I could, to our guide, that -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>foreign ladies were not accustomed to take their -baths in public, and at length, after an animated -conversation, of which I did not understand a word, to -my great relief, I saw that terrible and still steaming -tub being slowly but surely removed from its place -of honour.</p> - -<p class='c024'>What a strange ‘tiffin’ those kind monks gave -us, and what a merry party we were sitting on the -floor, round a little table one foot high and trying -to eat with chopsticks! How our hosts laughed at -our awkwardness. I think Chang got most of those -queer-looking little dishes. I can remember the -menu now.</p> - -<p class='c024'>First we had raw fish, with soy and pickled -turnip; then seaweed soup and young rushes; -prawns, bamboo-shoots, and lotus-root; rice, in -bowls, which we found absolutely maddening to eat -with chopsticks; hot saké, tea, and pipes. I believe -there were also some unwholesome-looking little -biscuits and arsenic-coloured bean-cakes. Without -these delicacies no Japanese banquet is complete.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Then, after an hour’s rest, off we started again to -the caves down by the sea. How clear the water -was! We could distinctly see the beds of coral far, -far down below. A shoal of sardines flitted hither -and thither like a long line of silver. A school of -porpoises were splashing about at a little distance; -and we fancied we saw the black fin of a shark rising -out of the water not very far off.</p> - -<p class='c024'>As we sat there watching the waves dashing up -<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>over the rocks, two strange, brown, naked beings -suddenly appeared from one of the caves and offered -to dive for some live lobsters, if we would give them -a few sen. Down they plunged, and so long were -they gone that we began to think, they really must -be demons from the sea, and not men at all. -Suddenly, a dripping creature stood before us, with -surely a lobster in its mouth, which it put down on -the rocks with a grin of triumph. Then, what must -Chang do but examine this strange-looking sea-trophy, -with the result that we heard a yell of pain -and saw him dancing madly about with a black -lobster firmly fastened to his nose! Before we could -come to his help over he fell, backwards, into the -sea below, and was borne rapidly away by the swift -current. The two brown demons plunged in after -him, and with some difficulty he was restored to land, -gasping and stunned, but safe.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Full of gratitude, I presented the rescuers with a -yen (Japanese dollar), which they received with many -bows, rubbing their knees with their claw-like fingers -and hissing through their teeth in the most polite -Japanese manner. We noticed, however, they -seemed much entertained about something as they -scrambled off to their caves, chattering and laughing.</p> - -<p class='c024'>What could have so amused them?</p> - -<p class='c024'>After some hesitation, our guide confessed that they -were saying that the ‘ojo-san’ must be a silly fool -to have given so much for saving a dog, when, on a -previous occasion, having rescued a child at the same -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>spot, the grateful parents had presented them with -only ten sen (2½d.)!</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c024'>I have not forgotten how Chang was once the -means of saving my life. How well I remember -that night in January! The snow lay thick on the -ground and there was every appearance of a continued -hard frost as I looked out of my bedroom -window on the moonlit scene below.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Chang had been very restless all the evening, -jumping up and giving an impatient bark from time -to time, as if something were disturbing him. I had -induced him, however, to lie down on the mat in my -room, where he always slept, and jumping into bed -myself, I was soon fast asleep.</p> - -<p class='c024'>It was about midnight, when I was suddenly -awakened by something pulling at my bed-clothes -and heard a low whine at my side. Wondering -what could be the matter, I sprang out of bed, and -had just hastily slipped on my dressing-gown and -slippers, when there was a loud roar like thunder, -followed immediately by a terrific crash, and the -whole house seemed to be falling. In less time than -it takes me to tell you, I was out of my room, flying -as fast as my feet would carry me down the stairs, -which were rocking so violently I could hardly -stand. On I rushed, out through the veranda into -the garden, until I found myself--how I know not--clinging -desperately to the branches of the twisted -pine-tree.</p> - -<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>The earth was still trembling, though much less -violently, but I expected at any moment another, -and possibly a stronger, shock to follow and the -ground to open and swallow me up. However, all -gradually became still, and I was able to look around -me and realize what had happened.</p> - -<p class='c024'>What a strange scene it was!</p> - -<p class='c024'>The black crows, which had been much disturbed -by my sudden intrusion to their roosting-place, -cawed harshly as they flapped down from the -branches above me, brushing heavily against me -with their great black wings in their flight. The -ground all around was covered with its pure mantle -of snow, white and peaceful, as if no terrific force -of nature lay below, ready at any moment to blot -it out for ever.</p> - -<p class='c024'>The moon, shining through the fleecy clouds, -looked down calm and cold. The cries of children, -the barking of many dogs, the twittering of birds -awakened from their slumbers, were heard on all -sides, whilst, as I climbed down from my perch, I -discovered it was decidedly cold, and that a tree is -not the most agreeable place in which to spend a -winter’s night.</p> - -<p class='c024'>On approaching the house, which I found, almost -to my surprise, to be still standing, I was greeted -with many anxious inquiries as to my disappearance, -and by loud barks of joy from my faithful Chang. -Later on I realized how much I owed to him, as, -on going up to my room, I discovered that a large -<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>piece of plaster from the ceiling had fallen on my -bed and, had I not been warned in time, I should -most certainly have been severely injured, if not -killed.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Slight shocks continued at intervals, and I spent -the remainder of the night on the drawing-room -sofa. The earthquake had evidently unhinged Dodo’s -inquiring mind, as at each recurring tremor he rushed -frantically round and round in a circle, howling -dismally, and would not be pacified.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Chang, being more philosophic--like all Celestials--considered -that his duty lay in defending his -mistress from that ‘terrible subterranean fish, whose -tail was the cause of so much disturbance’--Japanese -superstition--and lay down calmly at my feet; with -one ear, however, well on the alert, to be prepared -for all emergencies.</p> - -<p class='c024'>The next morning we found the town was a -scene of desolation, and had the appearance of a -bombarded city. There were cracks in the ground -in some places five feet wide, walls down, roofs off, -chimneys shattered, our dear little church destroyed, -and, worse than all, the reported loss of many lives, -though, happily, of no Europeans.</p> - -<p class='c024'>An earthquake evidently takes people differently. -Several persons I heard of afterwards, mad with -fear, had jumped from the upper windows of their -houses, and were more or less seriously injured. -One lady I knew, had retired under her bed, whilst -her husband, in the act of running from the house, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>suddenly remembered he had left behind him, not -his wife, but his favourite cigar-case, which he -promptly returned for and rescued! One of the -servants took refuge on the roof, another in the arms -of her more-valiant half in violent hysterics. Others -flew wildly hither and thither, whilst a few had -sufficient presence of mind to station themselves in -the doorways.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Buildings and furniture have also the strangest -vagaries on these occasions. A solidly-built house -close by us was literally in ruins, whereas ours -sustained little or no injury. I remember finding a -heavy clock on the ground, which had fallen off the -mantelpiece, and was still ticking away merrily, while, -in some cases, every possible ornament that could -get smashed did so with a thoroughness that defied -mending.</p> - -<p class='c024'>‘But,’ as the French say, ‘one must suffer to -be beautiful,’ and had it not been for those terrible -volcanic eruptions, and those awful earthquake convulsions, -where would be that wonderful, that -mystical ‘Fuji-yama’ the Sacred Mountain--those -picturesque valleys and hills--those fantastically-shaped -rocks and mountain ranges, which add such -a charm and beauty to the islands of Japan?</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c024'>Oh, what good times we had that summer in the -little wooden house in the midst of the forest of -fir-trees far away in the mountains of Japan!</p> - -<p class='c024'>What gallops over the hills in the early mornings, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>with the dew still on the grass and the larks -singing overhead!</p> - -<div id='b151' class='figcenter id012'> -<img src='images/i_b151.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>MYSTICAL ‘FUJI-YAMA.’</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c024'>Sometimes Chang would escort us--though without -permission, I grieve to say--on our riding expeditions. -When we had gone two or three miles -along the plain, after leaving strict injunctions that -he was to be shut up until our return, a little speck -would be seen in the distance, rapidly developing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>into a panting, disobedient, yellow dog. Even -then, I fear, he did not get the punishment he -deserved. Who could be severe for long, with the -delicious mountain air fanning our cheeks, the blue -sky above, and, on either side of the narrow path, a -dazzling confusion of the most lovely wild-flowers--from -the tall white and orange lilies, waving their -stately heads in the summer breeze, down to the -little Japanese mountain edelweiss, which seemed to -flourish equally well under the hot Eastern sun as -does its sister in the West amongst the Alpine -snows?</p> - -<p class='c024'>But I really believe the chief reason of the wily -one’s appearance was due to the thoughts of that -delectable and oily sardine-box, of which he was so -fond, and the tit-bits and scraps, which tasted so -much better out in the open than at home.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Sometimes, too, after dinner, we would start off -to pay an evening call on one of our friends staying -in the village, each carrying a little paper lantern to -light the way. Here and there, in the opening -between the dark fir-trees, we could distinctly see -the outline of ‘Asamayama,’ the great volcano, -rising up like a black pyramid against the star-lit -sky, a crimson cloud concealing the summit, and an -occasional flame shooting up, as if to remind one of -the fires down below. The path through the forest -was so narrow we were obliged to go in single file, -our ‘four-runner,’ as we called Chang, trotting along -in front to guide us.</p> - -<p class='c024'><span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>One evening, as we were warily picking our way -over the stepping-stones across the stream at the -edge of the forest--a somewhat difficult matter in -the darkness--Chang suddenly stopped short, uttered -a low growl, and we distinctly heard the rustle of -something in the long grass close by. Peering down -with our lanterns, we saw the outline of a large -snake, and heard the reptile hiss viciously as it disappeared -into the brushwood. In spite of many -assurances that these large snakes in Japan were -perfectly harmless, and only the little flat-headed -‘mamushi’ deadly, I always chose to consider that, -but for Chang’s timely warning, one of us would -certainly have been poisoned.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Alas! those happy days in Japan are over now. -All things must come to an end, and we, too, at last, -had to say good-bye to fair Japonica, with its flowers, -its sunshine, its dear, kindly, merry little people, and -sail away westward. I look back and see it all again: -the quaint little streets; the children flying their -kites, with their small brothers and sisters firmly -secured on their backs; the never-ceasing murmur -of ‘Houdah-huydah,’ as the patient coolies slowly -drag their heavy burdens up the hills; and all the -countless sights and sounds only to be seen in that -delightful land.</p> - -<p class='c024'>Even the earthquakes, the typhoons, and the -terrible floods seem to lose half their terrors viewed -across that mighty expanse of ever-rolling ocean that -separates us now from all things Japanese.</p> - -<div id='b154' class='figcenter id007'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span> -<img src='images/i_b154.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>THE LOTUS FLOWER OF JAPAN.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c024'>Sometimes, at night, as I lie awake in my Norfolk -home and listen to the murmur of the surf breaking -against the cliffs far below, I fancy I can hear the -whispered Sayonaras, borne on the waves from my -<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>friends far away; and as the wind sighs round the -house like a soul in trouble, I am reminded of those -charming lines from ‘The Light of Asia’:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b c007'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>‘Ye are the voices of the wandering wind,</div> - <div class='line'>Who seek for rest, and rest can never find,’</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c019'>and I wonder if perchance in their restless journeyings -they will bear back my answering message: -‘Sayonara! Farewell, farewell!’</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>But I am moralizing. This will never do. I -must not forget our journey to Assam, nor the -disaster that befell us at Hong Kong. Up to there -all went well. At Kobé we were fêted and made -much of by the kind friend who rescued Chang -from drowning in the gold-fish pond. No dog could -have behaved better. His meekness and propriety -were such that I inwardly marvelled at the change, -and our hospitable host and hostess were almost -in tears at his departure. ‘Such a sweet, gentle -creature, and so good!’ I knew better; but ‘sufficient -for the day.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>At Nagasaki we had only a few hours on shore, -but, wishing to give Chang exercise, I took him for -a walk along the Bund, and we wandered about -the quaint streets of that most picturesque town -immortalized by Pierre Loti.</p> - -<p class='c001'>There, in spite of many temptations--such as tailless -cats and mangy curs, that looked only made to -be annihilated--my hero returned to the steamship -<em>Hohenzollern</em>, having resisted all except a villainous-looking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>coolie’s legs and a half-blind mongrel puppy--they -hardly count.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Our next port was Hong Kong, where we changed -steamers and spent a couple of days in that charming -Blue Bungalow away up on the hill. What a -lovely spot it was, with its trailing creepers and -tropical vegetation, though terribly hot in summer, -I believe. There, too, Chang was admired and -made much of by all, except the five Siamese cats, -who were banished to the kitchen regions, much to -their disgust. It was a necessary removal, though, -and the one and only meeting between him and -those strange-looking, mouse-coloured, blue-eyed -quadrupeds was rather disastrous to the drawing-room -furniture; but one must draw the line somewhere, -and he evidently considered--at a Siamese -cat.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The morning of our departure on board the North -German Lloyd’s steamship <em>Kaiser</em> was one of those -days in a Hong Kong spring when the air seems -full of the scent of delicious flowers. The twining -bougainvillea was a blaze of brilliant crimson in -the morning sunlight; the waxen flowers of the -stephanotis and gardenia glistened like snow against -their dark-green foliage; masses of delicate tropical -ferns grew all around in rich profusion; gorgeous -butterflies flittered hither and thither across our -path.</p> - -<p class='c001'>A delicate gossamer mist hung over the harbour, -converting those great iron monsters of civilization -<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>into phantom ships, as we were rowed across the -water to our steamer, bound for Colombo.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Oh, what was it induced Chang, the now virtuous -and reformed dog, to bolt down the gangway and on -to the quay just as we were about to sail from Hong -Kong? Heedless of all else but that my well-beloved -was leaving me, I tore after him, on and on -along the quay, into the hot and steaming town. -What cared I for the frantic shouts from my father -on board, or the wild excitement of John Chinaman, -who, seeing the mad chase, added yet to the general -confusion by his hideous yells?</p> - -<p class='c001'>At last I captured the runaway, and, breathless -and spent, we sank together in a heap on the muddy -road. A few minutes later, an exhausted and disreputable -pair were to be seen wending their way back -to the quay, the deserter firmly secured by a chain.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I wonder if that wicked dog had any self-reproach -for my feelings when, on arriving at the docks, I -saw to my horror the <em>Kaiser</em> had departed with all my -worldly possessions on board, including money; and -was slowly, but surely, steaming out of the harbour.</p> - -<p class='c001'>What was to be done?</p> - -<p class='c001'>In the distance I saw my friends rushing up and -down the deck, gesticulating wildly. I could even -hear a faint shout from the captain, but what good -was that?</p> - -<p class='c001'>I was just considering whether to jump in and -swim--such was my state of mind at the moment--or -to accept the inevitable, and throw myself on the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>mercy of some kind friend in Hong Kong until the -next steamer, a fortnight later, when, suddenly, I -heard a shout from one of the steamers close by, -and to my joy, perceived the kind, jolly face of the -captain of the <em>Hohenzollern</em>. He shouted to me to -wait until he could fetch me in his steam-launch, -luckily near at hand, and a few minutes later the -captain and I, with Chang securely fastened up in -the bows, were steaming along merrily towards the -great mail steamer; I fear, laughing heartily over -the adventure.</p> - -<p class='c001'>When, however, the <em>Kaiser</em> stopped, and let down -a ladder to take the two runaways on board, I own -to a certain feeling of dread as to what punishment -might be in store for us.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Luckily the captain was merciful and, in fact, -treated the affair as a good joke, which was far more -than we deserved, as it is considered rather a serious -matter to stop a steamer carrying mails, if even for -only a short time. We had to stand a good deal of -chaff during the voyage home, but somehow I don’t -think either of us minded much.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The funniest part of it all was that Florence, my -friend from the Blue Bungalow, who had come on -board to see us off, in the excitement of the moment -was nearly carried off in my place, and had to be -lifted over the side of the ship, and into a boat -below, as the steam-launch, with all the other people -on board returning to Hong Kong, had already left -some minutes.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>The time that elapsed between our sensational -‘send off’ and our arrival at Colombo was a little -over three weeks.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At first Chang was regarded rather as a pet lamb -among the children and babies--there were seventy-five -little olive-branches on board. Then an officious -and quarrelsome German made a request to the -captain--who, poor man, always tried to please -everybody--that dogs on the promenade deck were -dangerous to the community at large; so my poor, -harmless chow, and also a minute canine specimen--a -Chinese sleeve-dog I believe it was called--were -banished to the charge of the butcher and steerage -passengers, in spite of many tears on the part of the -sleeve-dog’s owner and remonstrances from myself.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Sometimes, however, before the ‘disagreeable -man,’ as he was called, appeared in the morning, we -would bribe the jolly old quarter-master to bring -Chang up on deck.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Zo,’ he would say, ‘vat dee kinders dee hund -vant for to play vith? Ferry vell, I vill him up -bringen for a leetle.’ And then what romps he used -to have with his little playmates, chasing each other -round the deck, when the sailors would stop in their -never-ending work of polishing to watch the fun.</p> - -<p class='c001'>How well I remember that strange little being, -half child, half demon, who used to fondle and caress -Chang so much! What a pretty pair they made, -sitting side by side, their heads close together, her -red-brown curls mingling with his thick yellow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>coat, and her little brown arms thrown round his -neck.</p> - -<p class='c001'>What was it, I wonder, made him start away with -a yelp of pain, and look reproachfully at her from -under the refuge of my chair, safe from her wicked -little fingers?</p> - -<p class='c001'>I think the ‘fiend,’ as we called her, was quite -the most beautiful child I had ever seen; she was -about eight years old, and was being sent to England, -under the charge of the captain, to be educated.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Her father was an Englishman and her mother a -Cingalese, which accounted for the curious combination -of olive skin, red-brown hair and deep blue eyes -with their long lashes. She was marvellously graceful, -too. Her movements often reminded me of a young -tiger. Her moods were various. Sometimes, if the -spirit moved her, she would organize strange games -of her own invention, in which the children--who -were all completely under her influence--would be -commanded to join. Woe betide any child who -dared to disobey her instructions. ‘Fiend’ would -stamp her foot, her eyes would flash, and the unfortunate -little offender would retire howling to its -indignant ayah. In vain were the complaints of -fond parents to the captain. Such a spell did the -strange, beautiful child cast over the other children, -that neither threats nor entreaties could keep them -away when the next wild game was organized. -Even I fell under her strange fascination, although, -I regret to say, I, too, had to pay the penalty.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>I think, in her half-savage way, she was fond of -me; and I had for that reason more influence with -her than had most people on board.</p> - -<p class='c001'>But one morning, as I was sitting in my deckchair -with Chang at my side enjoying the sweet, -sleepy existence of a morning in the tropics, I -suddenly felt a little hand stroking my hair and -a soft cheek rubbing against my arm. Knowing -well what those cat-like caresses meant, and that -I was probably about to be asked some favour, I -continued reading until a sharp pain in my shoulder -caused me to jump to my feet, and there I saw my -tormentor, a truly wicked expression on her lovely -face, poised on the glass roof of the saloon well -out of my reach, and indignant Chang, evidently -knowing from experience what had happened, vainly -trying to reach the bare legs of the culprit. She -had calmly bitten my shoulder through my thin -cotton blouse, and it was some time before the marks -of her sharp little teeth disappeared.</p> - -<p class='c001'>For the rest of the day I completely ignored her -existence. I think my plan was effective.</p> - -<p class='c001'>That evening I came upon a solitary little -figure in the stern of the ship leaning against the -rails, her hands clasped, her eyes gazing far away at -the still crimson sunset.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Oh God,’ I heard her say, ‘I know I am very -wicked, but somehow I can’t help it! <em>Please</em> wash -me with that stuff you always use to make bad people -good, for I am sorry, <em>really</em>!’</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>Poor child! There was much that was good -in her nature, but she needed a strong, yet loving -and patient, hand to guide her. I fear her life may -be a hard one. What a change from the wild, unfettered -existence in the East, where she ruled the -natives on her father’s estate with a rod of iron, and -rode bare-backed where her fancy chose over the -hills, to the stiff, conventional life, however advanced -and modified, of an English boarding-school!</p> - -<p class='c001'>Soon after the incident just mentioned poor Chang -was seen on deck by the ‘disagreeable man,’ who for -some reason best known to himself had risen earlier -than usual that morning. Furious at having his -commands disregarded, he strode up to the captain’s -cabin, and, after abusing everyone on board, from the -skipper downwards, informed him that he should -lodge a complaint against the North German Lloyd -Steamship Company if that abominable Chinese cur -was seen again on deck.</p> - -<p class='c001'>So from that day poor Chang was banished from -civilized society; not but what I consider--I speak -reservedly--that his steerage companions were infinitely -the more entertaining.</p> - -<p class='c001'>What a strange collection they were! First, -the Burmese--quiet, gentle, brown-eyed creatures. -They were on their way to the Indian Exhibition, -where I afterwards saw them selling cigars and going -through their various performances. At first they -did not know me; but when I mentioned a certain -yellow dog named Chang they remembered at once, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>and were much delighted at hearing of their old -board-ship companion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Then there was the Buddhist priest in his quaint -garb, likewise on his way to the Exhibition; some -Cingalese rickshaw coolies--merry, indolent-looking -fellows, who seemed to take life very easily; also -several Chinamen, who sat all day long smoking -their long pipes or playing cards. I must not -forget those most uncanny-looking ourang-outangs, -too, which, as the weather became colder, were -dressed up in some cast-off sailors’ clothes, and -looked more horribly human than ever; nor that -dear little white bear, which was always curled up -fast asleep--and such heaps of small, chattering -monkeys; fowls, birds of all descriptions--a true -‘happy family.’</p> - -<p class='c001'>I would often go down to pay Chang a visit and -find him the centre of an admiring group, looking -rather melancholy, but patiently submitting to the -unconscious teasing of those pretty little Burmese -children who so adored him.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Sometimes he would be ‘down below’ in the -butcher’s quarters in company with a Siamese cat. -‘Friends in affliction’ they certainly had become, -sitting close together, puss purring away contentedly, -and rubbing her brown head against her companion’s -yellow coat as if they had been chums all their lives, -and the Siamese cat’s mistress and I would watch -them both unperceived, and wonder at the sight.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span> - <h2 class='c008'>CHAPTER XII <br /> <span class='fss'>PAUL AND VIRGINIA</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>Life on a tea-estate--My animal friends--Two brown bears--Brutus, -the monkey--Always in mischief--The Brazilian -Macaw.</p> - -<div class='c009'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_b164.jpg' width='225' height='177' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_0'> -At Colombo I basely -deserted Chang, -leaving him to the -charge of his kind -friend the butcher, -who dispatched him, -on the steamship -<em>Kaiser’s</em> arrival at -Southampton, to my -cousin at Aldershot; and for some weeks I heard no -more of my old favourite.</p> - -<p class='c001'>We stayed a few days at Colombo, and from there -took a small steamer up to Assam, where my father -had a tea-estate, which needed his personal supervision -for a time. The change after my gay and busy -life in Japan was very great. My father was away -riding all day, and I was left alone at the bungalow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>except for the natives belonging to the estate, who -could hardly be considered companions.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At first I felt rather forlorn and desolate, and -longed more than ever for some girl friend to keep -me company, but gradually I became very dependent -upon the society of a large and strange variety of -animals, to which I grew very much attached. Endless -are the tales I could relate about the faithfulness -and sagacity of various of my horses and dogs--to -say nothing of birds of all descriptions, from the -macaw--which saved my life from a desperate thief -one night by his keen sense of hearing when I was -alone in the bungalow--to the little bantam hen -that laid an egg for my breakfast every morning on -my bed.</p> - -<p class='c001'>My strangest companions, I think, however, were -two brown bears who went by the names of Paul -and Virginia. Why they were thus called I forget. -My father found them as little cubs about three -weeks old in the jungle, their mother having been -killed a day or so previously by one of the men on -the estate. The poor little beasts were nearly -starved when I first saw them, but they rapidly -recovered after having a few pints of warm milk -poured down their throats. We fed them out of -an old soda-water bottle wrapped in flannel, and -it answered the purpose admirably.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As the cubs grew older they became the most -delightful little creatures, and as playful as two -kittens. Paul was always the larger and stronger of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>the two, but little Virginia was like a ball of brown -fur, and had the gentlest and most winning ways -imaginable. Like all bears, they dearly liked water, -and we had a zinc bath made for them in the -compound, in which they would sit for hours during -the heat of the day--one at one end of the tub, and -one at the other; swaying their bodies backwards -and forwards as if they loved to hear the splash of -the water against the sides.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As Paul grew bigger, however, he found that there -was not sufficient room for him and Virginia to -bathe together; so, hurrying to the bath a little -before the appointed bathing hour, he would jump -in, lie down flat at the bottom of the tub, and -effectually prevent his sister from taking her morning -ablutions until he had finished, and the water had -become most distinctly muddy. Poor Virginia’s face -was a study. Round and round the bath she used to -pace, uttering from time to time a plaintive whine, -but all of no avail; Paul ignored her existence -completely until his morning bath was finished, -although at other times they were excellent friends--in -fact, a most devoted couple.</p> - -<p class='c001'>They had a constant companion in the shape -of a small gray monkey named Brutus. Now, -Brutus may have been ‘an honourable man,’ but my -Brutus was a most dishonest monkey. Had it not -been for his strange friendship with the bears, I -think I could not have stood his vagaries. Nothing -was sacred to him. Once my brush and comb -<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>disappeared, and when all efforts to find them had -been unavailing, I heard a mocking chuckle, and -discovered Brutus on the roof calmly brushing and -combing himself with my lost property, just as he -had, doubtless, observed me doing. Needless to say, -when my brush and comb came into my possession, -they were not of much further use to me.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I cannot mention a quarter of Brutus’s many -offences and mischievous ways. If only he had -exercised his talents in some useful capacity, he -would have been, indeed, a valuable addition to -the family. He nearly put an end to himself one -day by trying to shave his little gray chin with -my father’s razors; and had I not been near at the -time and heard his piteous and truly human yells, -he would certainly have bled to death, as he had -given himself a frightful gash behind the neck, -completely severing one ear. His appearance for -several weeks afterwards resembled an old woman -with the toothache, and it was a long time before -he ventured into my father’s room again, although -he made up for it by persecuting the cook almost -to distraction. He was an intensely jealous little -beast, and took a most violent dislike to a black -kitten belonging to the kitchen regions. One day -the kitten disappeared, and the poor little thing’s -body was found in a saucepan of boiling soup. -Brutus, in a fit of jealous rage, had thrust his victim -into the saucepan on the fire, carefully replacing the -lid so that no escape was possible.</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>The monkey’s friendship with the bears was -purely mercenary. He was a lazy little beast, and -found that riding was the pleasantest way of getting -about the country. He therefore used to accompany -Paul and Virginia in all their expeditions, springing -lightly on the back of one or the other, holding on -by their thick brown fur, and sticking to his seat like -any jockey.</p> - -<p class='c001'>It was the funniest thing in the world to see the -trio starting off for a long excursion into the jungle; -and I think in time that Bruin and his sister got -quite fond of their little master.</p> - -<p class='c001'>The bears’ favourite sleeping-place was at the top -of a short, stunted tree just outside my room. This -had its disadvantages, as their presence attracted -other bears from the neighbourhood, which had not -the friendly and harmless dispositions of Paul and -Virginia. From time to time numerous ducks and -chickens began to disappear in a mysterious way. -A small and favourite dog also vanished, and, during -the night, we frequently heard sounds of stealthy -footsteps on the veranda, and, although my father -rushed out with his gun to investigate, nothing was -visible. In the morning, however, the invaders were -tracked right into the jungle, as, wherever they had -come, they had left devastation behind, tearing up -roots, breaking down hedges, and doing terrible -damage in our vegetable garden. In vain were traps -laid, and coolies set to watch round the house. All -was of no avail. Our live-stock grew gradually less -<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>and less, one by one the fowls disappeared, and we -were in despair. Affairs reached a climax, however, -one morning, when one of our coolies was missing, -and, after a long search, his mangled remains were -discovered some distance from the house, evidently -the victim of the midnight invaders.</p> - -<p class='c001'>This settled the question. Paul and Virginia -must go--but where? Although they would have -been accepted at the Zoological Gardens in Calcutta, -we did not like the idea of subjecting them to confinement -in a cage. At last my father reluctantly -decided to shoot them; and one morning a court-martial -was held in the compound, attended by all -the coolies on the estate; a grave was dug, the condemned -were led out, two reports resounded through -the still morning air--one following quickly after -another--two brown heaps lay on the ground -motionless, and now nothing is left of poor Paul -and his sister but a grassy mound, with a little -wooden inscription bearing their names and the -date.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Poor Brutus felt the loss of his companions keenly, -and for several days refused to take food. In fact, I -quite thought he would have died. But one morning, -on looking for him in his box where he always -slept, I found he had disappeared. I hunted for him -in vain, and had just come to the conclusion that he -must have committed suicide from grief, when one -of the coolies came to me in great excitement to say -Brutus had been seen riding one of the goats. True -<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>enough, riding in state on one of the largest goats in -the herd was seen the truant, looking very proud of -himself, and seemingly perfectly content with his -new companions. How the goats approved of their -rider I cannot say; anyhow, willing or unwilling, -they had to put up with his company. Every morning, -as soon as the herd were released from the enclosure -where they passed the night and turned out on the -hills, Brutus would spring on to the back of the -foremost goat and disappear with them for the day, -only returning at evening for his supper.</p> - -<p class='c001'>About this time my supply of goat’s milk, which I -always took for my breakfast and supper, began to -diminish. I inquired the reason of the cook, but -could get no satisfactory solution. The quantity -became less and less, and one day I was informed -with many apologies that there was none, as Brutus -had taken it all!</p> - -<p class='c001'>Thinking that probably the coolies were cheating -me and selling the milk, I abused every member of -the household roundly, and threatened, if no milk -were forthcoming for my supper that evening, they -would one and all be dismissed.</p> - -<p class='c001'>At sunset that evening, however, my cook came -and begged me to come with him to the enclosure -where the goats were being milked. On my arrival -there, what was my amazement to see Brutus calmly -milking one of the goats, drinking a little from time -to time with much relish, whilst the remainder -trickled along the ground in a long white stream. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>The goat seemed perfectly unconcerned, and stood -quietly nibbling some grass as if nothing unusual -was occurring. We then discovered that all the -other goats had already been milked, probably at -intervals during the day, whenever it suited the -pleasure and wishes of Master Brutus, who evidently -seemed to consider that he was performing a very -meritorious action. I thought differently, however. -I was particularly fond of goat’s milk, and I was -in a country where good things were not to be had -for the asking, nor for money either, for that -matter.</p> - -<p class='c001'>So after this I decided to shut Brutus up in a large -cage, anyhow for a time, until I could find some -other plan to keep him out of mischief. For the -next few days I was away from home a good deal -riding in the district with my father, and did not -notice Brutus particularly. Naturally he would be -feeling somewhat bored, but a little punishment -would do him good.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One evening about a week later, on returning -home from a long ride, I went as usual to take the -little prisoner his supper. I thought the cage seemed -unusually quiet, but supposed he was asleep. On -looking in, however, I saw a tragic sight. How it -had happened, to this day I know not, but suspended -by a long string from the top of his cage hung -Brutus quite dead, evidently strangled. One end -of the string still fastened together a portion of -the roof of his wooden prison; the other end was -<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>tightly wound round and round his little gray -throat.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I have never kept another monkey. They are too -human.</p> - -<hr class='c016' /> - -<p class='c001'>The only other member of my happy family that -I brought home to England was the Brazilian -macaw, which I have already mentioned. Arara is, -without exception, the most beautiful and by far the -most intelligent bird I have ever seen. I have him -still, and long may he live, for he will never have an -equal. I believe he is about a hundred and fifteen -years old; but as the macaw belonging to the -Emperor of Japan is on the best authority a hundred -and thirty years old, there is every hope my old -favourite may still have many years before him. -Arara formerly belonged to a naval officer, who -brought him from Rio de Janeiro, where his ship -was stationed. On leaving there Captain R---- -brought the macaw with him to Colombo, but the -long confinement in a cage much too small, and -indifferent food and treatment, affected his health -and temper so much that my friend decided to part -with him, and I became the happy possessor of -Arara. It is difficult to describe his plumage and -its wonderful combination of different colouring. -His back and breast are bright crimson, his tail -feathers a vivid electric blue, and his wings emerald -green. His eye is a bright yellow--I say eye -advisedly, as he possesses but one, owing to a fight -<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>on board ship with a young eagle. This loss, however, -rather adds to his personal appearance, giving -him a most cunning expression as he gazes down -from his perch, always on the alert as to what is -going on.</p> - -<div id='b173' class='figcenter id017'> -<img src='images/i_b173.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic004'> -<p>ARARA</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>Although Arara’s vocabulary is not large--these -macaws are rarely taught to speak--he says a few -words very distinctly, and his imitation of other -animals is quite extraordinary.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Often I have hunted vainly for a cat in my room, -hearing a piteous mewing, and thinking one must -be imprisoned in some cupboard, and all the time it -was Arara sitting on a branch of a tree below my -window. His imitation of the bleating of sheep, the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>cackling of hens, and the crowing of cocks would -puzzle the most observant.</p> - -<p class='c001'>I must not forget to mention what happened -to that Chinese rascal Chang after we left him at -Colombo. Hearing nothing of him for over two -months, I fondly imagined he had settled down in -England a respectable and civilized dog. Alas, this -was anything but the case.</p> - -<p class='c001'>One morning a letter arrived from my cousin at -Aldershot, saying that, after fighting with every dog -in the regiment and mortally wounding two pedigree -poodles, that terrible chow-dog had finally and hopelessly -disgraced himself by appearing one morning -on parade, completely disorganizing the men, who -were drawn up at attention, by wildly careering, up -and down between the lines, and jumping up at any -he chanced to recognise--a performance which did -not improve the appearance of their spotless pipe-clayed -belts and clean tunics, the morning happening -to be rather muddy.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Finding that his affectionate greetings were not -appreciated, Chang next turned his attention to the -legs of the Colonel’s horse, thereby much disturbing -that noble steed and his rider.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Whose dog is that?’ roared the Colonel, casting -an infuriated glance upon him.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Captain X----’s, sir,’ replied the orderly.</p> - -<p class='c001'>‘Confound it! what does he mean by keeping such -a brute? Tell Captain X---- to have the dog -removed from the barracks immediately.’</p> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>Oh, I blush now to think of Chang’s disgrace. -He was promptly billeted at a neighbouring inn; -but an evil spirit seems again to have possessed his -Celestial brain, and he was returned a few days later -‘with thanks,’ and an alarming bill for the slaughter -of numerous chickens and ducks.</p> - -<p class='c001'>His subsequent career, I grieve to say, was a long -succession of iniquities. On our arrival in England -we took him down with us to Norfolk, thinking there -he must be out of harm’s way. At first all went -well. He spent his time meekly lying under the -dining-room table, looking as pious as a China pug. -But, alas! he chanced one day to observe one of -those irresistible pheasants he used to chase in the -mountains of Japan. From that moment he was -lost. Furious keepers brought tales of a ‘great -yallow, savage baste havin’ scared them thur burds, -‘til there’s no doin’ northin’ with ‘em’; of nests -destroyed, coops overturned, and countless other -offences too numerous to recount. Chang narrowly -escaped being shot on more than one occasion; and -from that time until his departure from the land -of game he was securely imprisoned in the stable, -there to repent his sins in solitude.</p> - -<p class='c001'>What was I to do with such a dog? My -friends urged me to sell him, and I had several -excellent opportunities of doing so, but I could -not in that mercenary fashion part with my old -companion.</p> - -<p class='c001'>Looking back on those days now, I marvel that -<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>we were not banished from civilized society; but -it is a long lane that has no turning, and at last -Chang began to reform. Whether it was the wire-muzzle -I made him wear, or the recollection of the -well-deserved and severe thrashing he received on -the terrible occasion when he worried a flock of -sheep, I know not; but slowly and surely he gave -up his many evil ways, until at length he became -the steady, sober watch-dog and ever constant and -faithful companion he is now.</p> - -<p class='c001'>As I look at my old favourite stretched out on the -hearthrug at my feet in a way peculiar to chows, -I realize that we ran a great risk of getting ourselves -disliked in those days. It is of no use for -him to pretend he does not understand me, as I -know by the placid smile on his wicked old face -and the sly wink in his sleepy eye that he does so -perfectly.</p> - -<p class='c001'>But I often wonder if dogs have any memories of -the past, and if Chang sometimes thinks, as I so -often do, of those happy, far-off days in fair Japonica.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id018'> -<img src='images/i_b176.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<hr class='c025' /> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>WELLS GARDNER, DARTON AND CO., LTD., LONDON</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> -<p class='c001'><a id='endnote'></a></p> -<div class='tnotes'> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='large'>Transcriber’s Note</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c001'>There was only one error detected during the preparation -of this text, which has been corrected, and is noted here. -The reference is to the page and line in the original.</p> - -<table class='table3' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='12%' /> -<col width='69%' /> -<col width='18%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c026'><a id='c_110.1'></a><a href='#corr110.1'>110.1</a></td> - <td class='c026'>of those statuesque faces[.]</td> - <td class='c027'>Added.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 54591 ***</div> -</body> - <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.56k on 2017-04-25 11:59:21 GMT --> -</html> diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e3f331d..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_a006.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_a006.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 16db18a..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_a006.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_a016.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_a016.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cd68d38..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_a016.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b001.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b001.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 63a1f93..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b001.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b013.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b013.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4d3d2d1..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b013.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b015.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b015.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 04e6fec..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b015.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b023.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b023.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a5d83cc..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b023.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b026.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b026.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 73f71ec..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b026.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b027.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b027.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e2d3eea..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b027.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b028.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b028.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 56c2aaf..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b028.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b033.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b033.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7d91755..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b033.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b035.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b035.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b720277..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b035.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b039.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b039.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fc80ee8..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b039.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b047.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b047.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 59750b9..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b047.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b051.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b051.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 01a9177..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b051.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b053.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b053.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 48b0c34..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b053.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b057.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b057.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9acb68f..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b057.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b063a.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b063a.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1d99496..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b063a.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b063b.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b063b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 619c553..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b063b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b064a.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b064a.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1beecf5..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b064a.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b064b.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b064b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2c45073..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b064b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b066.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b066.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0133622..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b066.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b068.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b068.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4b4cab3..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b068.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b069.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b069.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9748c19..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b069.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b072.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b072.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ee5dad5..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b072.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b083.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b083.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 99674e0..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b083.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b084.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b084.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f2f0251..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b084.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b087.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b087.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 11f19d1..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b087.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b098.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b098.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index bc8e90d..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b098.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b099.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b099.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5eb5439..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b099.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b102.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b102.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 39b1211..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b102.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b109.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b109.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4b431e1..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b109.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b123.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b123.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2b007d8..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b123.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b124.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b124.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e09e794..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b124.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b125.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b125.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ed132ee..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b125.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b129.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b129.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index be374f8..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b129.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b133.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b133.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 77861e8..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b133.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b137.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b137.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b1b6d62..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b137.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b140.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b140.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cf12ce2..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b140.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b141.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b141.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0a91b23..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b141.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b141e.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b141e.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fee2b18..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b141e.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b143.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b143.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2e458bb..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b143.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b151.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b151.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 50ca72c..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b151.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b154.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b154.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 823c764..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b154.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b164.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b164.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 86bd240..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b164.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b173.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b173.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7683794..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b173.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_b176.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_b176.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0b896f9..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_b176.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/54591-h/images/i_frontis.jpg b/old/54591-h/images/i_frontis.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0b24920..0000000 --- a/old/54591-h/images/i_frontis.jpg +++ /dev/null |
