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diff --git a/old/54255-0.txt b/old/54255-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 93bf0ae..0000000 --- a/old/54255-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12081 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and -Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Volum, by Evliya Çelebi and Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Volume II, by Evliya, Çelebi, 1611?-1682? - -Author: Evliya Çelebi - Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -Release Date: February 28, 2017 [EBook #54255] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS - - IN - - EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, - - IN - - THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY, - - BY - - EVLIYA EFENDI. - - TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH - - BY - - THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER, - F.M.R.A.S., &c. &c. &c. - - VOL. II. - - [Illustration: Colophon] - - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND - OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; - - SOLD BY - WILLIAM H. ALLEN & CO. LEADENHALL STREET. - - M.DCCC.L. - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - Page - - JOURNEY TO BRUSSA. - - Description of the Town and Fortress of Modania 2 - - Description of the Buildings of Brússa 4 - - The Public Officers of Brússa ib. - - Description of the Imperial and other Mosques 6 - - The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán - Murád I. 7 - - The Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I. ib. - - The Mosque of Mohammed I. ib. - - The Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. ib. - - The Mosque of Emír Sultán 8 - - The Colleges of Brússa ib. - - The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, - Mills, and Sebíls of Brússa ib. - - Praise of the Baths of Brússa 10 - - Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh - Sultán ib. - - Description of the sulphurous hot spring - (Gogurdlí Kaplíjeh) 11 - - Description of New Kaplíjeh ib. - - Description of the Market of Brússa 12 - - Description of the bridge of Erghándí 13 - - Description of the Walks and pleasure-places - of Brússa 14 - - A Dissertation on Mountains 15 - - Description of the Ice-worm 16 - - Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the - Inhabitants of Brússa 17 - - The Climate of Brússa ib. - - The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa ib. - - Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the - first Ottoman Sultáns 18 - - Short account of the Conquests of Osmán - Khán 19 - - Conquests of Sultán Orkhán ib. - - Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb ib. - - Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the Great Saint ib. - - Short account of Sultan Murád I. 21 - - Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár ib. - - Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd ib. - - Short account of Sultán Mohammed I. 22 - - Short account of the reign of Murád II. ib. - - Tombs of Ottoman Princes 23 - - Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa 24 - - - JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA. - - Qualities of a Mineral Spring 30 - - Pilgrimages of Nicomedia 33 - - - JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE. - - Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope 36 - - Description of the Castle of Samsún 39 - - Description of the Castle of Onia 40 - - Description of the Town and Ancient Fortress - of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians 41 - - Begs of Abaza Tribes 43 - - The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of - Trebisonde ib. - - Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde 44 - - Form and size of the Town, and description - of its Monuments ib. - - Description of the Lower Castle ib. - - Description of the Mosques 45 - - Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, - Market-places, &c. 46 - - Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants - of Trebisonde 47 - - Occupations, Guilds, &c. ib. - - Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts 48 - - Eatables and Beverages ib. - - Walks of Trebisonde 49 - - Praise of the River Kosh-oghlán 50 - - Visit to the Monuments of Sultans and Saints ib. - - - JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA. - - Description of Mingrelia 51 - - - JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV.) - - Description of the Land of Abáza 52 - - Specimen of the Abáza Language 58 - - Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza ib. - - - JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA. - - Description of the Castle of Baliklava 67 - - Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán 70 - - Return to Constantinople 73 - - - EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE - YEAR 1055 (1645). - - Station of Gallipolis 78 - - Siege of the Fortress of Canea 79 - - Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá 83 - - - JOURNEY TO ERZERUM. - - Gebize 89 - - Praise of the Lake of Sabánja 91 - - The Station of Khandak-bazárí 92 - - Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí 93 - - Pilgrimage to Habíb Karamání 94 - - Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint - Koyún Bábá 96 - - Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh 97 - - Form and Size of Amasia 98 - - Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c. 100 - - Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs 101 - - The Town and Castle of Nígíssár 102 - - The Hot-Spring of Nígíssár 103 - - Pilgrimages of Nígíssár 104 - - The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm ib. - - Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún 107 - - Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm 108 - - Description of the great river Euphrates 110 - - Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of - Erzerúm 111 - - Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm ib. - - Of the Mosques ib. - - Fountains 112 - - Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and - Markets 113 - - Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c. ib. - - Genealogies of Erzerúm ib. - - Description of Mount Egerlí 115 - - Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr ib. - - Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní 116 - - Stations of our Military expedition to the - Castle of Shúshík 117 - - Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan 118 - - Description of the Hot-baths 119 - - Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis 120 - - Description of the Hot-bath 120 - - Description of the Castle of Shúshek or - Shúshík 121 - - Size and form of Magú 122 - - Description of our journey along the Aras to - Persia 123 - - Curiosities of Uch Kilisse 125 - - Pilgrimage of Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb ib. - - - JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ. - - Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein - Bikara 129 - - Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the - ancient town of Tabríz 133 - - Description of the Mosques of Tabríz 134 - - Colleges of Tabríz 135 - - Praise of the Air and Climate 136 - - Account of the Persian Crown (Táj) ib. - - Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, - Beverages, Gardens, &c. 137 - - Account of a curious conversation 139 - - General Praise of Tabríz 140 - - Bad and reprehensible things in Irán 141 - - Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz 142 - - Description of the Expedition we undertook - with the Khán to Shám Gházán 143 - - Description of Merághá 144 - - Description of Aján 145 - - Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl 147 - - - JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN. - - Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí 149 - - Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván) 150 - - Description of the important town of Genje 154 - - Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs ib. - - Description of the Castle of Shekí 156 - - Account of the Tribe of Ettels 157 - - Pilgrimage of Ashár-bábá 158 - - Praise of Mount Caucasus ib. - - Description of the Town of Shamákhí 159 - - Description of the Fortress of Bakú 162 - - Description of our journey from Bakú through - Georgia 163 - - Description of a Whale with ears like an - Elephant 164 - - Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates 165 - - Size and figure of the Castle 166 - - Description of the Iron Gate ib. - - Buildings within the Castle 167 - - Pilgrimages 168 - - The Pilgrimage of the Forty ib. - - - JOURNEY TO GEORGIA. - - Description of the Castle of Serír-ul-Allán 169 - - Tomb of Emír Sultán 170 - - Description of the old town of Kákht ib. - - Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz.: - Betlís 171 - - Size and Figure of the Fortress 172 - - Products ib. - - The Hot-baths of Tiflís ib. - - Description of the Castle of Kúsekht 173 - - Description of Súrán ib. - - Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language ib. - - Genealogy of the Georgian Kings 173 - - Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, - Sultán Selím’s conquest 174 - - Khas or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs 175 - - Number of Ziámets and Timárs ib. - - Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka 176 - - Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province - of Chaldir 177 - - Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm 178 - - Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán ib. - - - JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR - 1057 (1647). - - Journeys on our return 185 - - - JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, - TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A. - - Form and size of the Castle 188 - - Description of the River Jorúgh 189 - - Pilgrimages ib. - - Description of the Castle of Tortúm 190 - - Size and Shape of the Castle 191 - - Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia 195 - - Of the Language of the Mingrelians 197 - - Moral Reflections 198 - - Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople - in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 - (1647) 199 - - Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh ib. - - Description of the Castle of Kumákh 201 - - Description of the Castle of Erzenján 202 - - Praise of the Eatables and Beverages 204 - - Pilgrimages ib. - - Description of the strong Castle of Shín or - Shábín Kara-hissár 205 - - Description of a Lion 207 - - Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum 208 - - Description of the Castle of Ládík 209 - - The Walks of Ládík 210 - - The warm baths of Ládík 211 - - Description of the Lake of Ládík ib. - - Pilgrimages of Ládík 212 - - Description of Merzifún ib. - - Description of the Baths 213 - - Praise of Pírdedeh ib. - - Products 215 - - Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún ib. - - Journey from Merzifún to Koprí 216 - - Description of the old town and great bridge - of Koprí 217 - - Description of the town of Gumish 220 - - Praise of Sheikh Bárdákli-bábá 225 - - Form of the Castle 227 - - The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán ib. - - Description of Angora 229 - - Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint 231 - - The Eatables and Products ib. - - Pilgrimages 233 - - Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or - Bebek-bazárí 239 - - Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople 240 - - Description of the tomb of the great Saint - Akshems-ud-dín 241 - - - - -NOTES. - - -_Note 1, p. 16._—_It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top._ - -The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the journey -having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the company -of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the Prussian -Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places the time -necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of the length -and difficulty of the road. - - -_Note 2, p. 197._—_The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the -Istikbál (solemn meeting.)_ - -See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ: -“At two o’Clock we came to Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small -fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were waiting our -passage. (In the Journey this is the first notice of the _Istakball_, -which so frequently recurs in the future progress of the mission, as an -honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distinguished traveller, -and to conduct him in his passage.) They were all armed with pikes, -matchlocks, swords, and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. -They then advanced to us and being announced by the _Arz-Beg_, wished -us a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility -“_Khosh amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded our party was -headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all -in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with -his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village -performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase -the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us, -until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army -who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon: these also fired their -muskets.” - - -_Note 3, p. 211._—_The river Khalliz._ - -This was no doubt originally called _Halys_, which seems to have -formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil -Irmák. - - - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. - - - - - THE - - TRAVELS - - OF - - EVLIYA EFENDI. - - -JOURNEY TO BRUSSA. - - -Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii -to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels -and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses -and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals; -the moon and the radiant sun: greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet, -who by his family accomplished his divine mission! Praise be to the -Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and destined me to -obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, alms -and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly -servant Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the -pilgrimage, first tried my strength by commencing, in the month of -Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot through the environs and quarters of -Constantinople; the account of which is contained in the first volume -of these travels. My ardent wish was to see Jerusalem and Baghdád, -Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to my dream related -in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when the -prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue, -said to him, instead of the usual form, _Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah_ -(Intercession, O envoy of God) _Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah_ (Travelling, O -envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, granted my wish. - -“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.” -Thus ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my -friend Okjí Zádeh Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a -journey to Brússa. He invited me to be his companion according to the -maxim, “First the companion, then the road;” and said, “Let us spend -a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments at Brússa: the -tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great Saint -Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this -proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all -present responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey. - -For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out -on this journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in -a boat of Modania, leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of -my birth, with the intention of seeing other towns and villages. The -present volume gives an account of this journey, which I undertook in -consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel therein safely day and -night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for according to -the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We -weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí -to take on board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the -morning on the first Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen -finding the time favourable for sailing, unfurled the sails and -weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the ship’s head towards -Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in high -spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy -voyage by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to -accompany them in their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile, -I fixed on the measure girdánieh, and sung three tetrasticks and one -sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. Several of the -boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such effect, -that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst -these amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands), -eighteen miles distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference; -it contains a famous Convent which is visited every year by many boats -from Constantinople. The inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains -and masters of ships. The public officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of -Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. From hence we -weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves with -a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five -hours’ sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania. - - -_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania._ - -It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first -enabled to perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion, -and then went forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and -forms a safe harbour, being closed against the wind from seven points -and open only to the North. The anchorage is excellent. At the head -of the harbour stands the custom-house, the lease of which amounts to -a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore, on a low rocky -ground. Prince Orkhán, with his father Osmán’s permission, conquered -this town in the year 721 (1321) and destroyed the walls in several -places, that it might no longer afford shelter to the infidels. It -is governed by a Voivode, subordinate to Brússa, the chief seat of -the Sanjak of Khodávendkiár. The judge is appointed with one hundred -and fifty aspers a day. His annual revenue amounts to two thousand -piastres. This appointment is sometimes given to the Mollá of Brússa -as Páshmáklik (pin-money). The houses are all faced with brick. There -are three mosques (jámí) and seven mesjids, three kháns, one bath, -two schools for boys, and two hundred small streets; but no room for -reading the Korán or tradition, because the greater number of the -inhabitants are Greeks. There are fine gardens producing superior figs -and grapes. From the excellence of its vinegar, it has acquired the -name of Dárkhill (vinegar-house). South-east of the town we passed on -horseback continuously through gardens and the cultivated field called -Filehdár. The river Nílúfer, not fordable in the beginning of spring, -is a clear stream, which issuing from the mountains Rúhbán, Ketelí and -Castel, waters the valley of Fillehdár and disembogues into the White -Sea. The main road crosses it over a handsome bridge, each arch of -which resembles the arch of heaven; its name, as well as that of the -river, was received from its builder the Princess Nílúfer, daughter -of a Sultán (Orkhán): after continuing our journey among gardens and -vineyards for two hours, we reached the town of Brússa, the emporium of -silk, the ancient capital of this country (Bithynia). - -The town of Brússa having been built towards the North on natural -rocks has no ditch, but on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) -and the quarter of the Mills, it has a deep one, which at the time -of the Asiatic rebellions of Kará Yazijí, Kallender and Sa’íd Arab -was filled up. Some of the stones of the walls are of the size of the -cupola of a bath, and some bear Greek inscriptions on them. The town is -protected against southerly and easterly winds from its being situated -at the foot of Mount Olympus. The houses have a northern aspect and -look over the plain of Filehdár. The fortress, the circumference -of which is eleven thousand paces, has six thousand battlements, -sixty-seven towers, and four gates, viz. the gate of the head fountain, -the prison-gate, the hot-baths’-gate to the west, and the gate of -the fishmarket. This stronghold was besieged more than once by the -Seljúkians, who came with an army of twenty thousand men; the siege -lasted between seven and eight months, the besiegers retiring only -on the approach of winter. Osmán the founder of the Ottoman dynasty -besieged it three times, but was compelled on the last occasion by an -attack of the gout to retire to Iconium. He sent his son Orkhán with -Sheikh Hájí Begtásh, who renewed the siege, and built two great towers, -one at the side of the hot-baths (Kaplijah), and the other on the -side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí), which took seven months to -complete. Orkhán posted himself at the hot-bath, his nephew Timúr-beg, -at the head-fountain, and Yalabánjik-beg at the mountain’s side. It -surrendered in 722 (1322) after a year’s siege, and Osmán died at the -moment he received the news. Orkhán his successor entered Brússa with -Hájí Begtásh, there fixed his residence, and buried his father’s body -in the castle. Osmán conquered seventy towns during the lifetime of -his father Ertoghrúl. His first conquest was in Kojá-Ilí by Akcheh -Kojá. Near Nicæa at the castle of Wáilakabád, he begat his son Orkhán -on Sheikh Edebáli’s daughter, who was related to the prophet, so that -the Ottoman Sultáns are Seyyids or Sherífs on the mother’s side. Sheikh -Túrsún their first divine was a relation of Sheikh Edebáli, and said -the first prayer from the pulpit in Sultán Osmán’s name. Brússa soon -became populated by mussulman colonists from all quarters. - - -_Description of the Buildings of Brússa._ - -The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many -high palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many -mosques, one bath and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is -one hundred and ten feet square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán -Orkhán lies buried here, and the large drum called Orkhán’s drum is -suspended in this mosque; it was used during Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The -palace in the castle was the residence of the early Ottoman Emperors -to the time of Mohammed II., who removed to Constantinople; Sultán -Murád I. having previously resided at Adrianople. Since Brússa has had -its own Bóstánjí-bashí (like Constantinople) the streets of the castle -are paved with large stones, and in some places stones are found with -inscriptions of the time of the Infidels, by which may be ascertained -how long the houses have been built; they are all built of stone, -faced with brick, and have a kind of sexangular chimneys to let out -the smoke, which look very well. In some places also grow cypress-nut -trees and vines, and from the elevation of the ground, the air is very -wholesome. - - -_The public Officers of Brússa._ - -The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with -a revenue of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty -fiefs called ziámet and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal -militia is commanded by an Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and -assemble at the Páshá’s command in time of war. The Páshá leads five -hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) is appointed with 500 -aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople and -Constantinople, it is a high office, valued annually at forty thousand -piastres. Seven Náíbs (deputies) in the town are subordinate to the -Mollá. The five other districts are those of Kíná, Fileh, Abolonia, -Castel, and Chokúrjeh. The civil officers are, a Chokádár of the -janissaries, a chamberlain (Kápújí-báshí); the commanding officer of -the janissaries, the colonel of the armourers (Jebejí), the officer -of the Sípáhís (Kiayá-yerí); the Muftí, the head of the Sherífs, the -inspector of the silk, of the custom-house, the Voivode of the town and -the provost, who all have power of life and death. - -The lower town was fortified in the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror -of Erla against the Anatolian rebels Kará Yazíjí, Kalender-oghlí, -Delí Hassán, and Jennet-oghlí, but it is not very strong; it extends -from East to West to the foot of Mount Olympus for the length of one -farsang and the breadth of half a farsang. The circuit is fifteen -hundred paces, the walls are not very high. There is but one ditch near -the gate of the Tátárs and no where else, and there is no need of it, -because if an enemy were to dig approaches, water would rush up in the -trenches. Guns and falconets are mounted on the towers, which are fired -on festivals; there is no other garrison than the doorkeepers, but -there are six thousand guards in the town. The gates are of iron and -above each are towers whence grenades and stones may be thrown on the -besiegers. The gate of the Tátárs opens to the East, that of Filehdár -to the North; and that of Hassan Páshá towards the Kiblah. There are -twenty-thousand large and small houses built in the ancient style; the -most conspicuous of all is the ancient residence of the Emperors, in -the upper town or fortress, it has three baths and three hundred rooms, -but no garden on account of the narrowness of the place. There are in -the whole town one hundred and sixty-six quarters of Moslims, seven of -Armenians, nine of Greeks, six of Jews, and one of Copts. The quarter -of the Meskins (Lepers) is a separate quarter leading to the road of -Sultán Murád. The upper part of the town with Mount Olympus rising in -the background is beautiful when seen from the plain of Filehdár, an -hour’s distance from it, and I can truly say that I have seen nothing -like it during my travels. Brússa is a very devout town, abounding with -Divines, expounders of the Korán and keepers of tradition, who are -found no where else so numerous, excepting at Baghdád. Mount Olympus -at the back of the town on the south side is a mine of living water, -no less than one thousand and sixty well-known springs flow from it, -and supply water in abundance to the palaces and houses. It abounds -also in all kinds of flowers, particularly in syringa (Erghiwán), the -annual assembly of Emír Sultán held in the season when the syringa is -in perfection being much celebrated. The inhabitants being fair, the -air good, the water full of holiness, contribute altogether, to render -Brússa one of the most delicious spots on earth. - - -_Description of the Imperial and other Mosques._ - -There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three -hundred and fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and -other great men. The first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by -Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated spot of Brússa, it is supported -within by large square pillars, the bases of which are gilt and painted -to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, _Yá Hannán_, “O all -gracious!” _Yá Mennán_, “O all merciful,” _Yá Diyán_, “O all faithful!” -_Yá Hassán_, “O all beautiful!” and other names of God. The letters -of these inscriptions are three cubits high; nineteen cupolas covered -with lead and crowned with golden crescents are supported by these -pillars. The twentieth cupola is placed on the centre of the mosque, -and is left open so that light and air may enter, but birds and animals -are shut out by a grating of brass wire. Directly beneath this cupola -is a round basin of water, wherein fish are swimming and whence the -Moslim community take the water necessary for their ablutions. The -pulpit made of black nut is skilfully carved and chiselled with flowers -and arabesques of all kinds. It must be absolutely seen, for it is so -wonderful that it cannot easily be described, and has no equal any -where except at Sinope on the Black Sea. The mahfil or place where -the Muëzzins repeat the proclamation of prayer, is painted with great -art. The mosque is lighted by glass windows on the four sides, and the -floor covered with carpets which are not found elsewhere because this -mosque is so richly endowed. It is nightly lighted by seven hundred -lamps, and is crowded with people at all hours, because no less than -seventy lectures are read here on scientific subjects to two thousand -scholars. The distance from one of the side-gates to the other is three -hundred and fifty feet, and from the Kiblah to the mihráb one hundred -and eighty feet; it has three gates. On the left side, the gate of the -Emperor’s oratory (mahfil), the gate of the Kiblah (opposite to the -mihráb), and on the right side, the gate of the Mehkemeh. Outside of -the Kiblah-gate is a stone bench; it has no great courtyard like other -mosques, but a small one, in the centre of which the Muftí Abdul-azíz -Efendí has built a basin with water-pipes. - -On the right and left are two high brick mináreh, and at that of the -Mehkemeh-gate is a fountain (_jet d’eau_), the water of which comes -from Mount Olympus, but it is now in ruins, the pipes having become -decayed by age. When it rains the water collects in the basin of this -fountain on the top of the Mináreh, and the birds flock hither to -drink. In short there is no more holy mosque than this in Brússa; it is -the Ayá Sofía of Brússa, and has therefore been described the first, -but the first consecrated in chronological order, was that of Orkhán in -the upper castle. - - -_The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I._ - -On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate -suburb called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a -peculiar style, because the architect was a Frank. The lower part is -devoted to worship, the upper devoted to science, is distributed into -rooms for students, so that each may follow the Imám’s directions at -prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one hundred feet, -and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a falcon, -which having been recalled by Sultán Murád I. and not obeying, was by -his curse changed into stone. This mosque has one gate, and a mináreh -one story high, but no courtyard. - - -_Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I._ - -It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by -fields and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance -from the town; it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in -width, in the old simple style, and remained unfinished during the war -of Timúr, but was completed by Mússa Ilderím’s son. - - -_The Mosque of Mohammed I._ - -This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret -(the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on -the East side of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one -hundred and eight feet long and eighty feet in width. It is impossible -to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) and minber (pulpit) because the -carving is beyond all conception; the only gate is also ornamented with -such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could not be represented -finer even by the pen on Chinese paper. The stone-cutter who worked -this gate, spent full three years on it, during which he received forty -thousand ducats from Mohammed I. as is generally reported; in short, -there is no mosque of more elegant and exquisite workmanship in the -world. The reason of its being named the green building, arises from -the cupola and the mináreh being covered with green fayence which -radiates like emeralds in sunshine. Tall plane trees surround the -outside. I saw no finer mosque in Brússa, and other travellers say no -where else. - - -_Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I._ - -On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this -mosque and its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The -builder was Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II. -who died at Adrianople and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and -has two cupolas. From the gate of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length -is one hundred and fifty feet, the width sixty. The (mihráb) altar, -(minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) are in the ancient -simple style, built in the year 850 (1446). Tall plane-trees adorn the -courtyard. Many Princes of the Ottoman family are buried here. - - -_The Mosque of Emír Sultán._ - -This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques -which I visited. - -On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a -small mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í, -its fine situation invites the people to pray there. The mosque of -Uftádí Efendí is in the inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques -(where Khutbeh is not said on Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd -Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, where I read the -Korán from beginning to end in one day, without interruption. Here -the Mollá Khosrew composed his famous book. At that time two hundred -lead-covered mosques and seven hundred minárehs might be seen from -Kází-yailá, a height half way up Mount Olympus. - - -_The Colleges of Brússa._ - -The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I., -Emír-sultán, Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín -Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, and Hamza-beg. - - -_The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa._ - -There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that -of Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a -place for the dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered -with lead, which stands on a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect -of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí Efendí, in the inner castle, of -Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán of the Begtáshís, men -fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open breasts, -wait upon the Moslims who frequent this delightful walk; it was built -by Orkhán and possesses more than a thousand kettles, pans, and copper -vessels; visitors perform their devotions here. That of Sheikh Kílí -near the camel-driver’s station, the dervishes are Begtáshís and very -poor, having no endowment, it was built by Sultán Orkhán. That of Abdál -Sultán Mússa built by the same. That of Ak-bi’ík Sultán of the order of -Begtásh. That of Abú Ishak Kasúlí who is buried at Erzerúm within the -gate of Tebríz. That of Gulshení; seventeen Convents of Khalvetís; nine -of Kadris; three of Nakshbendís; one of Rúfa’áïs; one of Kalenders, and -one of wrestlers. - -The Imárets (dining establishments for the poor) are those of Murád I. -Ilderím Báyazíd, Emír Sultán, and that of Mohammed I., called the green -one. - -There are one hundred and eight kháns; the principal one is the rice -khán, which has iron gates, a large stable, worthy of Antar, with two -hundred cells; the silk khán, of the same size, where the inspector -of the silk resides; the custom of the silk is let for three hundred -purses a year; the butter khán on the gate of which is suspended a -cask, which, being filled with búza, was once drank out by a single man -who had laid a bet that he would do it. There are also seventy kháns -called Mujerred Kháns for unmarried people. The cáravánseráï of Alí -Páshá was built by Sinán the famous architect, and has doorkeepers. - -The fountains of Brússa amount to the number of two thousand and sixty, -every one of which vies with the spring of life. The Muftí Azíz Efendí -himself built two hundred, his name appearing on all of them, with an -inscription begging for a fátihah from those who drink. Besides these -public fountains, each of the twenty-three thousand houses has its own -supply. From certain springs water-courses pass from house to house, -along the streets, and carry water to many basins, water-pipes, baths -and gardens. The town being built at the foot of Mount Olympus, and the -houses rising in rows one above the other, the water naturally flows -to them. There are seventeen fountains, from which this large quantity -of water is derived, the principal one is that called Búnár-báshí, -which rushes out of the rock in several places on Mount Olympus and -spreads itself over the town. The head fountains of Súnderlí, of Chatál -Kainak, of Kepíz, of Náshí Dersí, of Sobrán, of Arejlí, of Chárshú, -of Bellor Kainak, of Samánlí Kainak, the latter obtained the name of -straw-boiler, because it issues from Mount Olympus, flows for some -distance underground, and comes out again at another place, which is -proved by the re-appearance of straws that have been put into the upper -part of the stream; the Sheker Kainak (sugar-boiler); the Selám Kiassí -Kainaghí; the Királ Kainak (king’s boiler); the Murád-dedeh Kainaghí; -in short there are seventeen large fountains which yield the clearest -and coldest water; but the channels decaying in the course of time, the -keepers of the aqueducts, at night, throw horsedung into them, by which -the openings are obstructed and the purity of the water is spoiled; -they would not dare to do this in the day-time because they would be -punished for it by the public officers. - -The Water-mills are an hundred and seventy, which succeed one another -from the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) to the fish-market and all the way -down from Balabánjik; also in the valley of Eghzándí, at the tanners, -the quarter of the lepers, the foot of the Castle, the gate of Hassán -Páshá, &c. The establishments for distributing water (Sebíls) are six -hundred. Although here, as at Brússa, there is such abundance of water -that these establishments are superfluous, yet the generosity of the -Ottoman Sultáns provided them for the distribution of iced water in the -summer months. - - -_Praise of the Baths of Brússa._ - -The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond -all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím -Khán; the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the -bath of Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of -Ilderím, have all two rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three -thousand private baths in the palaces, some of which are also devoted -by the proprietors to public use. The hot-baths in Turkish are called -Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Maíhamím; in Persian, Germáb; in Rúmelí, Kainarjeh -(boiling); and at Brússa, Kaplíjeh (from [Greek: kapnos] smoke, which -hangs over these hot springs;) in the Mogolic language they are called -Kerensa, and in Europe, bagnio. These springs are impregnated with -sulphur from mines which they pass through underground, and when mixed -with cold water, are equally wholesome for bathing or drinking, but if -drank to excess, it is said, they cause the teeth to fall out. There -are many hundred hot springs at Brússa, which being neglected in the -time of the Infidels, were not covered. The hot-bath of old Kaplíjeh, -built by Murád I. has a great cupola covering a large basin ten feet -square, on the four sides of which are washing-tubs, with two retired -cabinets (Khalvetí), upon entering these the flesh feels soft as an -ear-lap and all uncleanliness is boiled as it were from the body. To -drink the water is a good remedy for palpitation and throbbing of the -heart; but a certain method is prescribed to those using the baths, -which if neglected brings on pleurisy. - -The following are the rules to be observed:—First, take a common -ablution at the edge of the basin, then wash the head with warm water, -throwing some over the body preparatory to walking into the bath, till -the whole body is covered, do not remain too long, and dress quickly -upon coming out, in order to avoid catching cold; this precaution is -necessary, and if neglected causes many ailments. The most powerful -of all the hot-baths of Brússa is that of Murád I. the dressing-place -being built in the old style is not cold. - - -_Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán._ - -The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers -who have been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and -bathe here forty days. Persons affected with this disease lose their -eyebrows and eyelashes, and their breath becomes infectious. God avert -it from us! There are for this reason separate quarters for the leprous -(Meskin) in all towns in Rúm. - - -_Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)_ - -It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it -is principally used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters -(Dellák) know how to treat people so affected. Those who can bear to -be rubbed by them in the private cabinets for half an hour, will see -within twenty-four hours a miraculous alteration; the skin peels off -in black scales, and the body appears white as silver. In short, the -suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists of -three hundred houses with gardens and hot springs, some for men, some -for women, some for children, and some for old men. The inhabitants of -Brússa, who are acquainted with their qualities, come here to stay a -fortnight with their relations, and use the baths. - - -_Description of New Kaplíjeh._ - -It stands near the town on a rocky place, and all the buildings are -covered with lead, like those of old Kaplíjeh. It was formerly a small -building, but Sultán Súleimán having been cured of the gout here, -he ordered his Vezír, Sárí Rostem Páshá, to build a large bath. The -travellers of Múltán, Balkh and Bokhara, say, that they have no where -seen a bath so magnificent as this. Its dressing-room is a vast place -covered with cupolas, capable of holding a thousand men; on its walls -is written in Ta’lík letters, a Turkish verse, saying; - - “In life on your apparel lay no stress - As every body must his body here undress.” - -In the centre of this dressing-room is a basin, and in the middle of -the basin a fountain. There are more than a hundred inspectors walking -round in high pattens, besides clean waiters (Dellák). The interior -basin (the bath itself) has a cupola which some say is one hundred -cubits high, it is covered with lead, and pierced with six hundred -glass windows; the basin is like a sea into which you descend by six -marble steps; at its four corners are figures of lions and dragons, -which spout the water from their mouths. In the cooling place (Súklik) -is a fountain (jet d’eau) which reaches to the top of the house. On -the side of the basin are eight large vaults, underneath each of them -is a bathing trough of stone, where those who perform their ablutions -can see those who swim in the basin. The floor of the whole bath is -paved with variegated marble, as though enamelled by goldsmiths. It -has two private cabinets (Khalvetí), in that on the right is a small -basin, the water of which is extremely warm, but when mixed with that -of a cold spring which is adjacent, a proper temperature is obtained. -Though this hotbath is not in such good repute as the former, yet it is -a pleasant place, where lovers delight with their beloved, especially -in the long winter nights; when these baths are lighted with candles, a -thousand tricks are played by the bathers, some diving, some swimming, -some wrestling in the water, some swelling their aprons into sails, -others spouting water from their mouths, some lying dead flat on the -water, others joining hands and imitating the cries of boatmen, “Tírá -Molá,” drive the water round like a whirlpool, which forces all those -who are in the water to follow the quick rotation of it. - -There is also a private hotbath, called Kainárjeh, which, with many -others, I did not see, because I was a stranger, and only setting out -on my travels. - - -_Description of the Market of Brússa._ - -There are nine thousand shops. The Bezestán is a large building with -four iron gates secured with iron chains; its cupola is supported by -strong columns. It contains three hundred shops (doláb) in each of -which merchants reside, who are as rich as the kings of Egypt. The -market of the goldsmiths is outside the bezestán, and separate from it; -the shops are all of stone. There are also the markets of the tailors, -cotton-beaters, capmakers, thread merchants, drapers, linen merchants, -cable merchants, and that called the market of the bride, where essence -of roses, musk, ambergris, &c. are sold. The brains of the passers by -are refreshed with the most delicious odours, and nobody is willing to -leave it on account of the fragrance of the perfumes and the politeness -of its merchants. These markets are established around the Bezestán, -and the shops are arranged in rows. In each corner is a fountain -supplying water out of two pipes. In the summer months the servants -sprinkle the ground with water, so that the whole market resembles a -serdáb or cooling place of Baghdád. The principal men of Brússa sit -here during the hottest hours of the day. According to the descriptions -of travellers there is no where to be found so pleasant a market place. -The market of Haleb and of Alí Páshá at Adrianople are famous, but -neither they, nor even those of Constantinople, are to be compared with -the markets of Brússa. The saddlers, and the long market are the most -crowded; and the one occupied by the sellers of roast meat near the -rice khán is very elegant. None of the provisions at Brússa are sold by -Infidels but all by true Moslims. The shops of the Sherbet-merchants -are adorned with all sorts of cups, and in the summer-time they put -flowers into the sherbet and also mix rosewater with it, which is not -the custom any where else. The fruit merchants ornament their shops -with branches bearing fruit. There are seventy-five coffee-houses -each capable of holding a thousand persons, which are frequented by -the most elegant and learned of the inhabitants; and three times -a day singers and dancers execute a musical concert in them like -those of Hossein Bikara. Their poets are so many Hassáns, and their -story-tellers (Meddáh) so many Abúl-ma’álí. The one most famous for -relating stories from the Hamzeh-námeh is Kúrbání Alí, and Sheríf -Chelebí enchanted his hearers by those he told from the Sháh-námeh. -Other story-tellers (Kissah Khán) were famous for reciting the tales -of Abú Moslem the hatchet-bearer, which may be compared to the memoirs -(Seir) of Weissi. All coffee-houses, and particularly those near the -great mosque, abound with men skilled in a thousand arts (Hezár-fenn) -dancing and pleasure continue the whole night, and in the morning every -body goes to the mosque. These coffee-houses became famous only since -those of Constantinople were closed by the express command of Sultán -Murád IV. There are also no less than ninety-seven Búza-houses, which -are not to be equalled in the world; they are wainscoted with fayence, -painted, each capable of accommodating one thousand men. In summer the -Búza is cooled in ice, like sherbet; the principal men of the town are -not ashamed to enter these Búza-houses, although abundance of youths, -dancers and singers, girt with Brússa girdles, here entice their lovers -to ruin. The roads are paved with large flint-stones, a kind of paving -not met with elsewhere; these stones are not the least worn by age, but -they are dangerous for horses, who stumble on them because they are so -hard and bright. - - -_Description of the bridge of Erghándí._ - -A market for weavers is established on both sides of the bridge of -Erghándí at Gokdereh (the valley of Olympus) the small windows of each -shop look on to the torrent of Gokdereh, which flows beneath. The shops -are covered with lead, and the bridge is shut in on two sides by iron -gates pierced with loopholes. A part of the bridge is reserved for the -use of strangers to fasten up their horses. There is no covered bridge -like this, either in Arabia, Persia or Turkey. The name of this bridge, -Erghándí, is derived from the word Erghalándí, which signifies, “it has -been shaken,” and to which the following tradition is attached:— - -In the time of Sultán Orkhán, a warrior, going early to the bath here, -heard a voice, saying, “Shall I come out or not?” The soldier being -a brave fellow, called out, “Come out,” adding a curse or two; when -out broke from the place whence the sound came, a rich treasure, with -great shaking and trembling of the earth (Erghálandí). The soldier, -upon seeing such a quantity of gold coins, went and related the story -to Orkhán, who advised him to spend in pious works, what Heaven had -thus granted him. He took the treasure to his home, paid a tenth of it -to the revenue, and then built this bridge, which took its name from -the circumstance. There are forty-eight large and small bridges in and -about Brússa. The streets and some of the markets are adorned with -festoons of grapes, which grow here in great plenty, and others with -tall plane-trees and willows. Brússa is truly a garden-town; the number -of gardens is said to be forty-seven thousand, all abundantly supplied -with water. - - -_Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa._ - -Of these there are no less than three hundred and sixty-five, so -that there is one for every day in the year. The finest is that of -Búnár-báshí, where if you eat roast meat and drink of the water, you -feel hungry again immediately; of such digestive power is the water: -a mosque adorns this famous walk. The walk of the Mevleví-kháneh, or -convent of Dervishes, built by Orkhán, where twice a week the Mevlevís -assemble for their religious dances (sima’á), and afterwards take their -pleasure in the fields. The walk of Abdál Murád Sultán is situate in a -valley high up on Mount Olympus, whence the finest view of Brússa is -obtained. The verdure is so luxuriant, that the earth seems covered -with green velvet. There are plane-trees, willows, cypresses and -box-trees, of an immense height, under the shade of which ten thousand -men may procure shelter. Swings are fastened with ropes to some of -these trees, where lovers and their beloved swing each other. There are -benches for company and benches for prayer; it is a most delightful -place, and extends as far as the eye can reach. The walk of Fissdíklí -is adorned with pine-trees, and is a secluded but very pleasant corner. -The walk of Karanfillí, on the way to Kaplíjah, is a resting-place. -The walk of Kaplí Kiaya is a fine spot without any buildings, and -surrounded by woods, and that of Abd-ul-múmen is above all praise. -Outside of the town, to the east, in a chesnut-wood, half an hour’s -distance from the foot of Mount Olympus, stands the fountain of A’ssá, -which is said to have rushed forth by a miracle, when the great Saint -Emír Sultán struck his staff (a’ssá) into the ground on this spot. The -chesnuts are grafted trees, each not weighing above forty drachms. The -walk of Sobrán is also adorned with chesnut-trees. The place of Ulumest -is a convent for the accommodation of strangers. The pleasure-place of -Kazí-yailá (the judge’s Alp) is situate half-way up Mount Olympus, and -is ascended from below in five hours. The Okmeïdán, or archery-ground, -is so pleasant a place, that it is beyond all description. The walk of -the Monks’ mountain (Olympus) obtained its name from its having been -the retreat of Greek Monks. - - -_A Dissertation on Mountains._ - -God created one hundred and forty-eight mountains, as locks of the -earth, which is held together by them when shaken by earthquakes; -this is hinted in the verses of the Korán, “His (God’s) are the keys -of the earth and Heaven;” and again, “and the mountains as pales”. -According to geographers there are in the first climate, nineteen; in -the second, twenty-seven; in the third, thirty-one; in the fourth, -twenty-four; in the fifth, twenty-nine; in the sixth, thirty-six; and -in the seventh, thirty-seven great mountains. The root of all mountains -is mount Káf, thus designated by the verse of the Korán, “Káf and the -glorious Korán;” it surrounds the earth and is reached by the Kalmúks -beyond the ice-sea; they call it in their language Yaldarák Ták. If -it pleases God, I shall describe it when I undertake that journey. -Since the time of Alexander none but the Kalmúks have seen Mount Káf, -they assemble every forty or fifty years to the number of seventy, -or eighty thousand, in order to visit it. The Caucasus (Kúh-al-burz) -faces the desert of Tartary called Heihát, the great mountain of -Germany (Riesengeburg), and the mountain of the moon twenty farsangs -beyond the equator, where the Nile originates. Mount Olympus was the -first of these mountains which I ascended with a goodly company; we -took litters, tents and all necessary preparations with us, and set -out from Búnár-báshí ascending during five hours. The first height, -Ghází Yailá, is so called because the Moslim victors (Ghází) had a -station here during the siege of Brússa, which lasted a whole year. -It is a pleasant spot with meadows and chesnut-trees, a small rivulet -running through it is full of trout. From this place a full view of the -town of Brússa is obtained. Five hours further on is the table-land -called Sobrán Yailássí, a large plain with chesnut-woods; trout are -also found in the lakes of it; we took a great many of them, and ate -them fried with fresh butter; each fish seemed like one of the dishes -Jesus multiplied amongst the people (six thousand men). Some hundred -thousand sheep graze here, descended from the forty thousand sheep of -Sultán Osmán: the shepherds are Turks, they brought us some sheep as -a present, which we immediately roasted, and passed the night in the -open air. Next day we mounted again in a south-east direction (Kibláh) -the road lined with hyacinths, roses, basilicon, and other flowers, -the scent of which perfumed our brains. We refreshed ourselves with -water from the living spring, and came after three hour’s travelling to -the place called Menzíl Bakajak, where we halted three days and three -nights in the woods, delighting in fresh fish and roasted sheep. This -place is called Bakajak, or look-out, because from hence on the nights -previous to Ramazán they watch for the new moon, and, as soon as they -see it, light a fire to give notice to the town, where the guns are -fired to announce the commencement of the fast. This look-out is on -the top of an isolated rock, which stretches towards the town like an -elephant’s proboscis and hangs over so deep a precipice that nobody -dares look down. From it the plain Filehdár, with all its villages, -fields, and cultivated grounds appear, like a picture on paper. It is -so steep and prominent that the great mosque, the castle and bezestán -of Brússa seem as it were sinking into the base of the mountain, and -from the summit cannot be seen at all. Rocks towering to the sky take -the appearance here of many strange shapes, such as dragons, elephants -and eagles. We mounted still further in the direction of the Kiblah -through flowery meadows, where no tall trees were to be seen, and after -five hours came to the station of Sultán Suleïmán’s fountain-head. A -delightful spot with a spring of water so cold that a man cannot take -out of it three stones in succession. There is here a large mass of -rock the size of the cupola of a bath, which vibrates on being touched, -and also many rivulets containing trout of one or two becas each. These -rivulets and brooks being frozen in the winter, the head ice-man, -(Kárjí-báshí) sends two or three hundred persons to cut the ice, which, -transparent as crystal and brilliant as diamonds, is used in summer to -cool their sherbet by the inhabitants of Constantinople and Brússa. -Some hundred ass-loads are every day embarked at Modania for the use of -the coffee-houses, Imperial kitchens, and the Imperial Harím; for the -Vezírs, the Kází-askers, and the Muftis. - - -_Description of the Ice-worm._ - -This is a worm, which is found in the midst of ice and snow as old as -the creation, but is difficult to find; it has forty feet, and forty -black spots on its back, with two eyes as red as rubies, all ice, -without a tongue, and its interior filled with an icy fluid; it shines -like a diamond but melts quickly away, because it is all ice. In size, -it is like those cucumbers which are sold for seed at Lángabestán, -sometimes larger, sometimes smaller. The ice-worm I brought to Sultán -Ibrahím was smaller than a cucumber. It is an aphrodisiac, sharpens the -sight, and makes a man as healthy and vigorous as a new-born child. It -is rarely found, and falls but to the lot of kings! It is said that on -the Caucasus they are of the size of dogs, with four feet, living and -walking among the ice and snow. Faith be upon the teller! I have not -seen them. - -Above the station of Súleimán vegetation ceases and the mountain is -barren. Kulleí Jehán, the tower of the world, is on the topmost peak of -the monk’s mountain (Olympus) whence beneath your feet the clouds may -be seen passing over the town. It is a journey of two days from Brússa -to the top; being so very high it is entirely barren; the mountains -of Cútahía are seen from the south side; the mountains of Sogúd from -the East, and from the west side the mountains of Galipolis, beyond -the White Sea. The summits of the Seven Towers and of the Minárehs -of Sultán Ahmed, may be discerned from hence when the sun shines on -Constantinople. From its height, it is so much exposed to the wind, -that if men did not cling to, or shelter themselves behind, the rocks, -the wind would blow them away like cotton. On the highest spot is a -burying place, the four sides composed of immense stones; it is the -tomb of Sa’dán the son of Landha, who is said to have taken refuge here -from fear of Hamzah. Near it is a deep dark cave which leads to seventy -or eighty small cells, where Monks resided in the time of the Byzantine -Empire; on some of them are inscriptions in Greek and Latin, two -thousand years old. People who come to the top also write their names -in this place. We again mounted our horses and came after ten hours -ride, ascending and descending, to the Victor’s height, Ghází Yailá, -from whence, after another ride of ten hours, we arrived at Brússa. - - -_Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa._ - -There are many thousand rich merchants and learned divines who dress -in sable pelisses. Being in Asia, the language is related to the -Turkish, hence they say Ahmed Chepú instead of Ahmed Chelebí; Memet -Chepú instead of Mohammed Chelebí; Assmíl instead of Ismaíl; Jafár -instead of Ja’fer, besides some words and expressions entirely unknown; -young men of the town however speak with great purity. Their principal -occupation is the cultivation of silk, the manufacture of velvets and -other stuffs of Brússa called Sereng and Chátma, it is also famed for -the manufacture of cushions for sofas. - - -_The Climate of Brússa._ - -The longest day is fifteen hours: the inhabitants are fresh-coloured -on account of the healthy air, but as Mount Olympus intercepts the -southerly winds, the air is dull and heavy when they blow. The -youth are numerous and have been celebrated in many a town-revolt -(Shehrengíz). The women are exquisite beauties, with well-arranged -teeth, and well-arranged words; their hair curled and dressed in -tresses is celebrated in the poetical expression Kessúí merghúleh. -The men attain a very old age; in short the pleasant advantages which -this town affords are not to be met with elsewhere. The people are of -a graceful stature, silver bodies, cautious, and so eloquent that when -they speak they never fail to produce the greatest effect on their -hearers. - - -_The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa._ - -The first is white bread of the kind called Súmún, which is as good as -the best of Constantinople; then that sort of bread called Chákil, -like white roses; the Gozlemeh, the Kerdeh, a kind of roast mutton -dressed over a stove (Tennúr). The sheep which are very fat come from -Mount Olympus. The white Halvá of Brússa is also celebrated. - -The beverages are the delicious water of the head fountain Búnár-báshí -and seventeen other principal springs; excellent coffee from Yemen, -very good búza, the sherbet Khanedán-beg (smiling Prince), that of -Tírelí-oghlí, Karan-fillí and Shujáb. - -The fruits are forty-day pears, exquisite grapes, apricots, cherries, -and chesnuts famous all over the world. These chesnuts, weighing forty -drachms each, are put on spits with the meat, the juice of which -penetrates them; they grow so succulent that it is almost impossible -to leave off eating them till one dies. The seven day mulberries are -also famous. The plain of Filehdár is laid out in mulberry plantations, -because the chief product of Brússa is silk, which is said not to be -equalled by the Persian silk of Shirwán. - -The manufactures are those of ruby-coloured velvet, like that made at -Genoa, Brússa linen of different colours, aprons called Kirk-kalem, -purses of silk, silken nets, and finally cushions of cut velvet called -Chátma munakkash katífeh. - - -_Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns._ - -The Seljúk family arrived in the country of Rúm (the Asiatic provinces -of the Roman Empire) in the year 476 (1083). They first allied -themselves with the Danishmend family, and occupied with them the -districts of Malatia, Cæsarea, Alayeh, and Konia. The Seljúkians took -up their residence in the latter town, while the Danishmend family -resided in those of Sivás and Erzerúm. Melek Ghází died at Nigissár and -is buried there; Ala-ud-dín the prince of the Seljúk family, called -Toghrúl-beg, the ancestor of the Ottoman family from Mahán was a -relation of his, and created him a Beg; he made some inroads from Konia -on Nicæa, Brússa and Nicomedia. Ertoghrúl-beg, who was invested with -drum and banner, had not yet the right of striking coins and of the -Friday prayer, he was buried at Sogudjek near Nicæa. His son Osmán-beg -was the first absolute monarch of the Ottoman family whose name was -struck on the coin, and prayer said by Túrsún Fakíh, 699 (1299). He -married the daughter of Sheikh Edebálí who became the mother of Orkhán, -and through whom the Ottoman Sultáns are related to the prophet. Until -the time of Mohammed II. these princes were called Beg. Mohammed II. -was the first called Sultán by Akshems-ud-dín and whose name was struck -upon coins. Selím I. was then proclaimed servant of Mecca and Medina -by Kemál-páshá-zadeh, and Ebúsúd Efendí the famous Muftí added to the -title of Sultán Súleimán, that of Sultán of two lands, and Khakán of -two seas, because he had conquered Baghdád and Rodos, but if he lost -either of them he was to lose the title also. - - -_Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán._ - -He conquered the castles of Bílejik, Ainegol, Kara-hissár, Inogí, -Iznik, Kopru-hissár, Elibád-hissár, Castel, Kítah, Bígha, &c. Osmán-beg -reigned twenty-one years after the death of Sultán Ala-ud-dín, and died -at the age of sixty-nine, after having reigned twenty-six years, at the -moment Brússa fell into the hands of his son. - - -_Conquests of Sultán Orkhán._ - -The Castles of Yází, Kogreh, and in Rúmelí, Yanbolí, Galibolí, Moderní, -Kojá Elí, Iznikmid, Belakabád, Brússa, Taraklí, Goinek, Karassí, -Bálikersí, Bergama, Adremyt, Ashlúna, Rodosto, and Búlair; the last was -conquered by Súleimán-páshá, Orkhán’s son, who lies buried there. - - -_Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb._ - -Sultán Orkhán died in the year 771 (1369), he is buried with his father -Osmán beneath a cupola in the mosque of the inner castle; he died, -after a reign of forty-one years, at the age of sixty-four; he was a -mild monarch, a father to the poor, and a warrior in the ways of God. -The divines of his time were David Kaissarí of Caramania, he was named -Kaissarí because he was brought up at Cæsarea, he commented on the text -of Mohay-ud-dín Arabí and was a second Taftazání in mystic science. He -was the first Professor (Muderris) of the College which Sultán Orkhán -built at Nicæa. Molá Ala-ud-dín commonly called Eswed Khojá (the black -master) who commented doctrinally on the work Moghní-ul-lebíb and -also on the book, Wikayit. Molá Jenderelí Kará Khalíl, who was first -created Kází-asker of Anatolia by Orkhán. Molá Hassan Kaissarí, one of -the greatest Jurisconsults; he wrote a good commentary on Andalusian -prosody, he was a disciple of Mohay-ud-dín, and completed his education -at Damascus. - - -_Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the great Saint._ - -When young he never mixed with other boys but sought retirement and -scorned all worldly pursuits. He refused to accept the dignity of -Sultán which was offered him by his father, who died a Prince in -Khorassán. Forty years long he did nothing but pray and fast, and -arrived at such a degree of perfection, that in the night, during his -sleep, his soul migrated from his body into the world of spirits, -and he became filled with the mystic science of spirits, and divine -knowledge. One Day the men of Khorassán asked him to perform a miracle -as a proof of his sanctity; he then performed many miracles, and was -acknowledged by all the great men of Khorassán to be their superior. -My ancestor, the pole of poles, the Sultán of learning, the fountain -head of science, the chief of the Sheikhs of Turkistán, Khojá Ahmed -Yessúí Ibn Mohammed Hanefí, was his disciple, and hinted that he had -received from him even the gift of direction to bliss (Irshád), and -of true Dervishship, which Gabriel brought from Paradise, with its -symbols, the crown, the habit, the carpet, the lamp, the table, and -the banner, to Mohammed the true fountain-head of all Dervishship. The -prophet delivered the direction to Imám Alí, from whom it came to his -son Hossein, who bequeathed it to Imám Zein-ul-ábedín, who left it to -Ibrahím Almokerrem, who when in the prison of Merván handed over to -Abú Moslim, the crown and gown, carpet and table, lamp and banner, the -symbols of Dervishship. From him they came to the Imám Mohammed Báker, -then to his son Imám Ja’fer, and to his son Mússa Kázím, and from -him to Ahmed Yessúí the head of the Sheikhs of Turkistán, who being -asked by his disciples to leave to them the aforesaid symbols, never -consented till Hájí Begtásh made his appearance, who became by the -possession of it, the pole of the poles (Kutbal-atkáb). - -Hájí Begtásh of Khorassán was the son of the Seyyid Ibrahím Mokerrem, -who died in the prison of Merván, as it has been just said, and there -is no doubt of his descent in direct lineage from the Prophet; the -history of Ain Alí gives, however, the following genealogy: Seyyid -Mohammed Hájí Begtásh, the son of Seyyid Músá Nishabúrí, son of Seyyid -Ishak Essákin, son of Seyyid Ibrahím Mokerrem El-askerí, son of Seyyid -Mússa Ebí Sebha, son of Seyyid Ibrahím Elmurteza, son of Imám Músa -Alkázim, who had thirty-seven children. Hájí Begtásh’s father left -Khorassán after his father’s death and established himself at Nishabúr, -where he married Khatmeh the daughter of Sheikh Ahmed and by her had -Hájí Begtásh. While yet a boy he was distinguished for his devotion, -and was entrusted to the care of Lokmán, one of the disciples of Ahmed -Yessúí, from whom he learned the exoteric and esoteric sciences. Lokmán -had been invested with the religious habit of Imám Ja’fer by the hand -of Báyazíd Bostámí. With this habit Lokmán invested Hájí Begtásh. This -is the crown or turban which has twelve folds in remembrance of the -twelve Imáms, and the white abbá with sleeves like a jubbeh, which -is worn by the Dervishes of the order of Begtásh. By order of Ahmed -Yessúí he accompanied Mohammed Bokhara Sáltik with seven hundred men, -Shems-ud-dín Tebrízí, Mohay-ud-dín Al-arebí, Kárí Ahmed Sultán, and -other pious men and Saints into Rúm, where the Ottoman dynasty took its -rise. - -Hájí Begtásh instituted the new militia called Yenícherí, and having -established his seven hundred disciples in the towns conquered by -Sultán Orkhán, he sent Mohammed Bokhara Sárí Sáltik into Dobrúja, -Wallachia, Moldavia, Poland and Russia. The seven hundred convents -of Dervishes, Begtáshí, which actually exist in Turkey, are derived -from the seven hundred disciples of Hájí Begtásh. Hájí Begtásh died in -Sultán Orkhán’s reign, and was buried in his presence in the capital of -Crimea, where a Tátár princess raised a monument over his tomb. This -monument having fallen into decay Sheitán Murád, a Beg of Cæsarea of -Sultán Súleimán’s time, restored and covered it with lead. If it please -God we shall describe it in its proper place. Sheikh Seyyid Ahmed -Ruffa’í, buried at Ladika near Amasia. Sheikh Hassan Rufa’í, buried at -Tokát near Sunbullí, was the nephew of the former. Sheikh Geigli Bábá -was a Dervish of the Begtáshís. Sheikh Kárá Ahmed Sultán a Persian -prince, who when on his travels came to Sultán Orkhán, was initiated by -Hájí Begtásh, and is buried at Ak-hissár. Sheikh Abdál Mússa Súltán, -and Sheikh Abdál Murád, both of Sultán Orkhán’s time. - - -_Short account of Sultán Murád I._ - -He gave caps (Úskúfa) to the janissaries, embroidered with gold; built -a mosque at Bilejk, another mosque at Brússa and a convent for Postín -Púsh Bábá. He was assassinated in the year 791, after the battle of -Khassova, by Milosh Kúblakí. A cupola is erected over the spot, which -was renewed by my gracious Lord Melek Ahmed Páshá. - - -_Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár._ - -He is buried on the west side of Brússa near old Kaplíjah, beneath a -large cupola. His arrow, bow and quiver are suspended over his tomb, -with the bloody garment in which he was killed, which fills with awe -all who enter this monument. He was seventy years of age at his death, -and had reigned thirty. - - -_Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd._ - -Besides numerous conquests in Anatolia, he passed seven times in -one year from Anatolia into Wallachia, and from the rapidity of his -movements obtained the name of Ilderím (lightning). He besieged -Constantinople, and established a judge there and seven hundred -Mussulmán houses, from the Flour-hall (Ún-kapán,) to the Rose mosque, -also the tribunal of Sirkejí-tekkieh. In the year 805, following bad -advice, he waged war against Timúr, and was taken prisoner by the -Tátárs after a long struggle on foot, his horse having been thrown -down. Brought into Timúr’s presence, he was well received, but Timúr -asking what he would have done to him had he been taken prisoner; -Báyazíd answered, that he would have put him into an iron cage and -carried him to Brússa; Timúr being enraged, ordered Báyazíd to be put -into an iron cage, intending to carry him into Persia, but he died on -the third day of a violent fever. - -His son, Mohammed Chelebí pursued Timúr’s army towards Amasia, and had -tents made of the skins of the slain Tátárs, beneath which he sheltered -himself from the sun. The field of the above defeat is called to this -day, in derision, Táshak-ová-sí. He took his father’s corpse from the -enemy, and buried it in the mosque he had built at Brússa. Sultán Murád -IV. when he visited this tomb gave it a kick with his foot, saying: -“What, do you lie here like a monarch,—you, who have destroyed the -Ottoman honour, and have been made prisoner by the Tátárs?” At the -moment he kicked the coffin, he cried, “Oh! my foot!” and from that day -was attacked by the gout, which carried him off. He lived sixty-seven -years, and reigned fourteen; he was a great Emperor, but could not war -against fate. - -The Divines of his time were Sheikh Sheháb-ud-dín Sivássí, who -composed a valuable commentary, and is buried at Aya Solúk (Ephesus); -Khosb-ud-dín of Nicæa, who contended much with Timúr; Simánezadeh -Sheikh Bedr-ud-dín Ben Mahmúd Ben Abd-ul-azíz; the Mevlená Fakhr-ud-dín -the Persian, buried at Adrianople; Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím Ben Emír Azíz -Merzifúní, and the Sheikh Pír Elías, who is buried at Amasia. - - -_Short account of Sultán Mohammed I._ - -He first shared the Empire with his brethren Súleimán, Mússa, and Issa -Chelebí, whom he subdued in one year and became absolute monarch. He -built Yerkoí (Gimgera) on the banks of the Danube. He died in 824, -and lies buried beneath a painted cupola before his mosque called the -green building, (Yeshil Imáret), he was forty-seven years old, and had -reigned seven years. He was the first who sent a Surreh, or present of -money, by the caravan of pilgrims, to the poor of Mecca and Medina. He -finished the old mosque at Adrianople, the foundations of which had -been laid by his brother Mússa, and built a cupola near Philippolis -over the tomb of Ghází Mohammed Beg, at the place called Kúnis. - -The divines and learned men of his time were Kara Shems-ud-dín Semaví, -famed for his works and travels, who was exiled from Brússa to Zaghrah -in Rúmelí, where he is buried. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí Ben -Abd-ur-rahmán Ben Alí Ben Ghánem. - - -_Short account of the Reign of Murád II._ - -The soldiers having revolted, dethroned him under the pretext that he -had grown too old, and put his son Mohammed II., who was only thirteen -years of age in his place; but being found incapable to hold the reins, -the janissaries again displaced Mohammed II. sending him to Magnesia, -and recalled old Murád to the throne. Afterward in the year 855 they -deposed Murád II. for the second time, and Mahomed II., then twenty-one -years old, obtained absolute sway, and took up his residence at -Constantinople. His father died the next year (856) at Adrianople, but -was buried at Brússa. He lies in more magnificent state than any of the -Sultáns buried at Brússa, his tomb being covered with a golden stuff. -He was thirty-nine years old when he died, and had reigned twenty-eight -years. He built the mosque Ujsherfelí at Adrianople, two other mosques, -a Dar-ul-hadíth, a Bezestán, and the bridge of Erkeneh with a mosque. -He was the first who assigned a salary to the Seyyíds or Sherífs. - -The Divines and Sheikhs of his time were Zekeriah Khalvetí, the -disciple of Pír Elías, who is buried near him, and Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán -Ben Hassám-ud-dín, commonly called Gumishlí-zádeh; he was the -son-in-law of Pír Elías, and having had the honour of kissing the hands -of the three sons of Murád II., he foretold to Mohammed II. that he -would conquer Constantinople, and establish the true faith there. - - -_Tombs of Ottoman Princes._ - -Ala-ud-dín Páshá, son of Osmán, who died in 804, lies near his brother -Orkhán; Shehinshah, son of Báyazíd, Governor of Brússa; Mohammed, -son of Báyazíd, and eight princes, brethren of Sultán Selím I. whom -he killed when going to war against Prince Ahmed, are all buried -near Orkhán; also their brother Ahmed, who was strangled by Sultán -Selím, and sent hither. Ahmed’s son Murád fled into Persia to Sháh -Ismaíl, where, at the end of three years, he died, and was buried at -Erdebíl near Sháh Safí. Two of his brothers, who had been spared at -the intercession of the Ulemas, died soon after at Constantinople -of the plague, and are also buried here. Korkúd, who, persecuted by -Selím I., was taken at Tekkah in a cavern with his governor Piáleh and -killed (909), is buried beneath a private cupola near Murád II. Prince -Hassan, the son of the latter and brother of Mohammed II., and who was -strangled soon after his brother had ascended the throne, also lies -buried here near his father; so also does the unfortunate Jem, brother -of Báyazíd II. He left a cup, which, on being emptied, filled itself -again, an ape who played at chess, and a white parrot, which was dyed -black by Sa’dí the poet of Jem, and presented to the Sultán, saying -the words, “We belong to God, and return to him.” In the year 1074 -(1663) at the time I, poor Evliyá, was on my journey to Vienna, Prague -and Lúnjat (?), I conversed with many monks and patriarchs, who all -agreed that Jem was the son of a French princess, who being taken by -Mohammed II. at the point of the Seraglio, became the mother of Báyazíd -and Jem. The three brethren of Mohammed I., Issa, Mússa and Súleimán -are buried beside their father Báyazíd at his mosque. There are many -hundred princes and princesses buried at the mosque of Sultán Murád II. -at Brússa. Chelebí Sultán Mustafa, the son of Súleimán I., who, on the -invidious report of his enemies, was strangled by his father, also lies -buried in the tomb of Sultán Murád II., though some pretend that he -is interred on the east side of the courtyard gate of Eyyúb, but that -is another Mustafa, who was killed by his father Súleimán, he having -had two sons of that name. The first six Ottoman emperors are also -interred at Adrianople, at the heads of their coffins a particular kind -of turban is placed, with folds and farthingales, after the fashion of -Mahán, the town of Khorassán. The art of folding them has descended -from father to son in one family, from the time of the Seljúkians. -Mahommed II. wore the Urf (a kind of round turban), and the conqueror -of Egypt wore the Selímí; may it last for ever! - - -_Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa._ - -Sheikh Geiklí Bábá Sultán was one of the followers of Ahmed Yessúí, and -came from Azerbeiján. He used to ride on wild roes in the woods, and -load gazelles with his baggage after he had harnessed them. He planted -a tree near the Seráï in the castle at Brússa, which has now arrived at -a great height. His tomb at Brússa in the great convent was built by -Orkhán. - -Abdál Mússa, also a disciple of Ahmed Yessúí, came from Khorassán with -Hájí Begtásh to Rúm. He was a companion of Geiklí Bábá, and was present -with him at the conquest of Brússa, where he was buried in a convent. - -Abdál Murád Sultán, one of the Saints lost in abstraction (Santons), -who was present at the conquest of Brússa. He is buried in a convent -facing the town on the South side, in a pleasant place, which is at the -same time a pleasure garden for the inhabitants of Brússa. A sword, -three cubits long is shown here from which Sultán Ahmed I. cut off one -cubit’s length, which he placed in his treasury. - -Molá Shems-ud-dín Mohammed Ben Mohammed Ben Hamza Ben Mohammed -Fanarí, the sun of hidden things, and the moon of life, one of the -first divines of Sultán Ilderím, has left works on seventy different -scientific subjects, but by God’s will became blind at last. It is -related that having opened the grave of his master Kara Ala-ud-dín, a -voice was heard saying: “Art thou there? God deprive thee of sight!” -and a whirlwind rising at the same moment blew all the dust of the -grave into his eyes, by which he became blind. He was one of the -divines who denied the verse; “The earth does not eat the flesh of -the Ulema.” Aúz-páshá, Sultán Orkhán’s Vezír, having a spite against -Fanárí, said, “May I see the day on which I shall perform the prayer -for the dead over this blind Mollá’s grave.” This being told to the -Mollá, he said “God Almighty can yet take away the sight of the -Páshá, and give me back mine to perform prayer on his grave;” and it -so happened that Aúz-páshá having had his eyes put out by command of -Sultán Orkhán for a badly executed commission, Fanarí had his sight -restored to him the same night, and performed the prayer of death on -the Páshá. He died in the year 833, and reposes at Brússa near his -college. - -Shems-ud-dín Mahommed Ben Alí, called Emír Sultán, born at Bokhára, -came first to Mecca, and then to Medina, where the Sherífs refused to -give him the portion allotted to the Sherífs, though he was entitled -to it by his descent from the prophet through Hossein. The Saint -appealed to the decision of the prophet himself, and went to his tomb -accompanied by his adversaries, where, having saluted the grave, a -voice was heard, saying: “Health to you my child, Mohammed Ben Ali, -go to Rúm with the lamp;” upon hearing which the Sherífs instantly -threw themselves at his feet, and Emír Sultán undertook the journey -to Rúm, whereupon a lamp suspended in heaven became his guide to -show him the way, and was only extinguished when he entered the town -of Brússa. He took this as an evident sign that he was to fix his -residence there, where he had four hundred thousand disciples. The -inhabitants of Brússa had seen the lamp for three days, and knew by -that miracle that he was a great saint. They all became Dervishes -under his direction. Báyazíd Ilderím not only walked on foot by the -side of his stirrup, but also gave him his daughter Nilúfer Khánum in -marriage. Ilderím having built the great mosque Úlújámí at Brússa, -and having asked Emír Sultán whether it was not a perfect mosque, the -Saint answered; “Yes, it is a very elegant mosque, but some cups of -wine for the refreshment of the pious are wanting in the middle.” The -Sultán replied with surprise; “How, would it be possible to stain God’s -house with the liquor forbidden by the law.” “Well,” said the Saint, -“thou hast built a mosque, Báyazíd, and, find it strange to put cups of -wine therein; and thou whose body is God’s house, more excellent than -a talisman composed of the divine names, or the throne of God, how is -it thou art not afraid of staining the purity of this godlike house -with wine day and night.” From that moment Báyazíd, repenting, left -off drinking wine. When Timúr marched against Brússa the inhabitants -being alarmed, inquired of Emír Sultán what was now to become of the -town. The Saint said, “the commander of the town having recommended it -to the care of Eskejí Kojá and Khizr, they must be informed of it.” -Ilderím being defeated, Emír Sultán wrote a note which he sent by one -of his Dervishes into the camp of Timúr, with an order to deliver -it to Eskejí Kojá, that is to the chief of the tailors who mend old -clothes. Having read the Saint’s note, he said, “Emír Sultán shall -be instantly obeyed;” he stuck his needle in his turban, and before -he could put up his things in his bag, all the tents of the camp -were broke up by the power of his command, because this old tailor -happened also to be a pole of poles, or great Saint. Emír Sultán died -in the year 833 (1429), and is buried outside of Brússa to the East, -beneath a high cupola; the gates are inlaid with silver, so also is -the entrance, by which you descend six steps. The walls are covered -with variegated china (Chíní). The four windows looking westward to -the field of Brússa are brass; four others look towards the Kiblah -into the yard of the mosque. The great number of suspended ornaments -which adorn the interior of the mosque are equalled only by those of -Medina; the silk carpets are richer than are found elsewhere. The tomb -is encircled by gold and silver lamps, candlesticks, candelabras, and -vases for perfumes and rosewater. On the coffin lay Koráns by the hands -of Yakút Mostea’-assemí, Sheikh Bekrí, Abd-allah Krími Kháledí, Timúrjí -Kúlí, Zehebí, Ibn Sheikh-dedeh Mohammed, Kará Hissári, Hassan Chelebí, -&c. The coffin is covered with silk embroidered with gold, and at the -head a large turban reposes majestically. Those who enter are struck -with such awe, that many do not dare attempt it, but only look into it -by the window at the head, and recite a Fátihah. On the south side of -the tomb is a very elegant mosque, the four sides of which are laid -out in cells for the poor, who dine here at the Imáret. When Sultán -Selím I., after the death of his brother Ahmed, visited the tomb of -Emír Sultán, a voice was heard, saying: “Enter Egypt in security,” -which was interpreted as news of the conquest of Egypt, which Emír -Sultán promised to Selím I., and on that intimation Kemál-páshá-zádeh -instantly said a Fátihah. - -The Muftí of divine secrets, the champion of mystic illumination, -Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán Ben Alí Ben Ahmed Al-bostámí, a great lawyer, -who was also a good poet, is buried at Brússa. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf -Mokadessí Ibn Abd-ur-rahmán Ibn Alí Ibn Ghánem Al-anssarí, having -visited the tomb of Sadr-ud-dín at Konia, the dead saint stretched -out his hand from the tomb, drew the Sheikh to him on the grave, and -ordered him to read the Súrá Yass. He then built the convent Zeiniler, -where he is buried. There lived not a greater Saint than him in the -time of Sultán Mohammed I. - -Mevlana Mohammed Shah Ibn Mollá Yegán, one of the Úlemas of Murád I., -buried at Zeiniler. Mevlana Yússúf Bálí Ibn Yegán, who wrote notes on -the Telvíh. Mevlana Seyyid Ahmed Ibn Abd-allah who also wrote notes -on the Telvíh. Mevlana Elias Ben Ibrahím, who wrote an abridgement of -the Kodúrí Sheik Ak Bi’ík Sultán of the Dervishes Bairámí. Sheikh Uzún -Mosslah-ud-dín, who died at Táj-ud-dín’s tomb at Brússa, after having -read the Korán for the space of forty days. The pole of the spiritual -world, the mine of divine science, Fanárí, a great divine of the time -of Murád and Mohammed II., died 834. The Santon (Mejzúb) Abdál Mohammed -on the great road. Sheikh Sultán Ramazán Bábá, buried in a pleasant -meadow at Brússa in a convent of Begtáshís. - -Sheikh Abú Ishak Kazúní, his name was Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak. -His mother, Shehriár, was an Armenian princess and married to one of -the princes of the white sheep (Baiandurí.) He was born in the year -352, in the month of Ramazán, and was the pole of poles in his day; -he is buried at Erzerúm, inside the gate of Tebríz, beneath the same -cupola with Murteza Páshá, who gave up Eriván to the Persians. When -I visited this place the keeper was an old woman with a white beard, -whose story is as follows. At the time of the rebellion of Abáza Páshá -some of his Segbán came to the village Kánkoí, with the intention of -ravishing a beautiful Armenian girl, she being aware of her danger, -turned her face to heaven and said, “O Abu Ishak deliver me from these -rioters, and I for the remainder of my life will watch thy tomb.” At -that moment a white beard grew from her chin, and she thus escaped the -pursuit of the Segbán. I have myself seen her three times. The chapel -in memory of Kazúní, which exists at Brússa, was built by Ilderím; it -is opposite to the burying place of the Camel-drivers. - -Chekirkeh Sultán at Eskí Kaplíjah, before the monument of Murád I. -Shádí Sultán near Emír Sultán. Abd-allah Efendí. Sheikh Emír Alí Efendí -of the order of Khalvetís. Karaja Mejid-ud-din. Karanfillí-dedeh -at Hassan Páshá’s gate. Sunbullí-dedeh at the Tátárs’ gate. Sheikh -Alí Mest in the same place. Mollá Arab Jebbári at the foot of the -mountain. Mollá Ashjí-dedeh, Hassám-ud-dín Chelebí, Kháliss-dedeh, -&c. Mollá Khosreu Ibn Khizr, the author of the celebrated canonical -work, “Durer-u-gurer;” he is buried near Zein-ud-dín Háfi. There is -a small dark cell, wherein he composed this precious work, which I -did not leave until I had finished the lecture of the whole Korán in -it, as an offering to the blessed spirit of Mollá Khosreu. Sheikh -Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí the Imám of Ilderím Khán. Sáurimssakjí-zadeh -Súleimán Efendí buried near the old Kaplíjah, he is the author of the -“Mevlúd-námeh,” or hymns on the Prophet’s birth sung on his birth-day. -Mollá Bagdádí-zadeh Hassan Chelebí Ibn Yússúf Albagdádí is buried at -the convent of Zeiniler, where he lived and died. Mollá Hassám-ud-dín -Hossein Ben Mohammed, known by the name of Kara Chelebí-zadeh, buried -before the mosque of Emír Sultán. Sheikh Mohammed Uftádeh Efendí of -the order of Jelvetís, buried in the mosque of the inner castle, -with a large convent near it. Mollá Kemál-ud-dín known by the name -of Karadedeh, born at the village Súvinsa near Amasia; he was a -tanner, and did not begin to study until he was sixty years old, -seven years afterwards he became Professor of the college of Murád -at Brússa; he lived many years after this, and wrote a great number -of books; the work “Dedeh-júngí” is of his composition. He is buried -near Emír Sultán. The Muftí Azíz Efendí who was Sheikh-ul-Islám in -Sultán Súleimán’s time, and being exiled to Brússa died there. Mollá -Alí Ben Sáleh celebrated by the name of Vassí Alí, the author of the -“Húmaiún-námeh” (the Turkish translation of Pilpay’s Fables). Sheikh -Núr-allah Ben Ak-Shems-ud-dín, who having fled from his father to -Brússa, accidentally killed himself with his pen-knife, and is buried -near Zeiniler. Mevlana Abd-ul-ghaní Emír Sháh, his birth-place was Bolí -and he is buried at Zeiniler. - -There are besides, some hundred thousand great and holy men buried -at Brússa. Many of their tombs I visited and said a Fátihah in -remembrance of their noble spirits, but I do not know their names. -In remembrance of those whom I have named, I said the Súra Yass, and -recommended myself to their favour and assistance. I began my travels -with visits to many great Saints, and said a Fátihah on behalf of all -the Faithful. Health to you, and God’s mercy upon them all! During -forty days and nights I enjoyed all kinds of pleasure at Brússa, and -with my companions took leave of our friends on the 20th of Safer -1050; Okjí-zadeh Aghá accompanied us as far as the bridge of Nilúfer, -from whence we reached Modania in four hours. Here we sent back our -horses, embarked in a light boat, were tossed about by a stormy sea, -and at last reached Bozborún with the greatest difficulty at the end -of twenty-four hours. It was formerly a good harbour but was neglected -because it did not afford sufficient shelter. There is a khán and a -small mosque, some bakers and búza seller’s shops, and no other trace -of good buildings, but it is surrounded with fine gardens. The walls -of the mosque are covered with inscriptions by passengers complaining -of this wretched place, there is no possibility of saying a word for -it, because all who reach this point storm-beaten, have the same -cause of complaint. The inscriptions are in different languages, all -lamenting or cursing this place of Bozborún. One cannot refrain from -laughing at some of these odd inscriptions, which are both in prose -and verse. I was obliged to wait here two days, which I spent with ten -or fifteen gay companions walking amongst the gardens and vineyards, -which lie to the East, and eating pears. We walked about three thousand -paces into the district of Armúdlí belonging to Brússa, from whence a -Súbáshí is established here. It derives its name from the quantity of -pears (Armúd) which grow on all the hills, in the valleys, gardens and -vineyards. It is a village of three hundred neat houses, faced with -brick, a mosque, a bath, three mesjíds, a khán and ten shops, the air -is very pleasant. We spent a night here, and in the morning the boatmen -advised us to make haste because the wind was favourable, which, God -be praised, carried us out of this sad whirlpool of Bozborún. At cape -Bábá-borún at the foot of Kátirlí-tágh we said a Fátihah in honour of -Bábá Sultán, and beat up towards Constantinople. We arrived at last -at Agios Stephanos (St. Stefano) which is ruled by a Súbáshí, under -the Bostánjí-báshí of Constantinople, and by a guard of janissaries -(Yassakjí Kúllúghí), it is in the district belonging to the Mollá of -Eyyúb. In the time of the Infidels it was a large town, which was -ruined at the siege of the Arabs by Omar Ibn-ul-azíz in the Khalifat of -Súleimán Ibn Abd-allah. It is now a large Greek village of five hundred -houses faced with brick. It has a convent, some small streets and two -churches. We disembarked here and passed the night, walking next day -along the sea shore for three hours to the garden of Iskander Chelebí, -which belonged to the Defterdár of Sultán Selím II., who having died -without children, the garden became an Imperial one. There is an Ustá -or master with two hundred Bostánjí. The Muftí Hossein Efendí, who -had been accused by his enemies of ambitious and dangerous schemes -was first exiled to this place by Sultán Murád IV. and was afterwards -seized by the Bostánjí-báshí, strangled and buried here. He is the -first Muftí in the Ottoman history, who like the martyrs of Kerbela -died a violent death; he could repeat forty thousand Fetwas by heart. -We took horse here and rode along the shore in sight of our ship -advancing by the aid of oars, with our baggage. - -Thus returned I, poor Evliya, on the 25th Safer of the year 1050, to -Constantinople, went the same day to my paternal house, and kissed the -hands of my father and my mother. My father crossing his hands said: -“Welcome, welcome, traveller of Brússa!” I was astonished to hear this -as I had not told anybody where I was going to, but my father said: “In -the night of A’shúra the 10th of Moharrem, when I was anxious about -thy being lost, I performed many efficacious prayers, and read the -Suna (Ena Atainak) a thousand times. The same night I saw in my dream -that thou wast gone to Brússa to implore Emír Sultán’s assistance in -thy travels. That same night I gave thee leave to go this journey, -which may God bless! but now, my son, sit thee down, touch my left -ear with thy right hand, and hear my paternal advice.” I did so, and -he gave me many moral maxims, and much good advice on the manner of -my travels, enjoining me to compose a faithful and detailed account -of them; when he had finished he gave me a strong box on the ear, -concluding his lesson with a Fátihah. I kissed my father’s hand, who -then gave me twelve valuable books and two hundred well-coined ducats -to provide for my travels, and gave me leave to set out for whatever -place I liked. I then also kissed the hands of twelve great Sheikhs, -and to my unspeakable joy obtained their blessings on my undertaking. -This gave me great satisfaction, and the same week in the first days -of Rebí-ul-evvel, I agreed with one of my relations Kúl Oghlí Mohammed -Reis for a voyage to Ismíd (Nicomedia). - - - - -JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA. - - -“May God bless and make easy the voyage, Amen!” On Friday at -Yemish-iskeleh, after having performed the Friday prayer in the mosque -of Akhí Chelebí, where I remembered the vision I had had there of the -Prophet, whose hand I kissed, saying, “Siyáhat (travels)” instead of -“Shifá’at (intercession) O prophet of God!” and having given thanks -and prayed for health and faith, we embarked on our voyage, saying “In -God’s name!” (Bis millah). With a fresh breeze we weathered the point -of the Seraglio, passed Chalcedonia, the point of Tener-baghjeh and ran -straight before the wind to Darija, a square castle on a chalk cliff -eighty miles from Constantinople. This castle is built of stone, has -one gate, which looks on the harbour, thirty houses faced with brick, -one mosque, but no market or bath, and neither commander nor garrison. -It is said to have derived its name from the children of Darius, who -were imprisoned here in a cave; it was conquered by Mahommed I. in the -year 827 (1423), is ruled by a Súbashí and belongs to the district -of Gebízeh. Below the castle there are three hundred neat houses -faced with brick, a mosque, a khán, a bath, and small streets; its -harbour is the port of Gebízeh. At an hour’s distance from here the -road to Erzerúm and Baghdád passes through mountains. The wind not -being favourable we rowed to the passage where travellers to Konia, -Haleb, Damascus and Mecca embark in flat-bottom boats to pass over to -Hersek-dílí on the opposite shore, in order to save the going round the -gulf which is eighty miles long, and at the end of which is situated -Nicomedia. In the harbour of Gebízeh-dílí (the passage on this side) -are two old kháns, two bakers-shops, a búza-shop, two grocers-shops and -a fountain, erected by Mustafa Aghá the Bostánjí-báshí of Sultán Murád -IV. 1048 (1638). Here we again embarked and after rowing three hours -arrived at the mineral spring (Ichmesú), where we disembarked with all -our friends, pitched our tents on the shore, and gave ourselves up to -quiet and pleasure. - - -_Qualities of a Mineral Spring._ - -In the month of July annually, many thousand men from Constantinople -assemble here, and live merrily under tents during the space of forty -days and nights, amusing themselves with firing muskets and guns. Sick -persons drink of the water from the well for three days, which causes -vomiting, and relieves the stomach of a quantity of offensive bile, -while the lower evacuations cleanse the intestines of worms and similar -matters. It is a white, clear water, with a slight bitter taste, and -issues from a chalk cliff. The regulations prescribed for its use -enjoin a three days fast as a preliminary, no meat or any thing salt -must be eaten; on the fourth day the patient drinks a cup of water -morning and evening, taking care to keep himself warm: he continues to -drink the water for the next three days, taking for food chicken-broth -without salt. When the water has had its effect fifteen times, further -operation is stopped, by drinking soup seasoned with lemon-juice. After -this regimen the patients embark and go to the hot-bath of Yalova -directly opposite, where they rest themselves, washing and cleansing -their bodies. - -We then re-embarked, and after half an hour’s rowing arrived at the -village of Ainehájí on the sea-coast, a Turkish village with a mosque -and sixty houses. Eight hours further rowing brought us to the village -of Zeitún-burní (Olive Cape) a port of Nicomedia, where the ships -belonging to the Aghá of the Janissaries take in their cargoes; we -were pleased with the cultivated appearance of the country on either -side the gulf, and at the end of eight hours more came to the large -town of Nicomedia. It was formerly a strong built and populous place, -the ruins of which still remain; and is said to have been built by -Alexander, to whom the foundation of Scutari is also ascribed; and the -canal which was cut from the lake of Sábanja to the gulf on one side, -and from the river Sakaria to the Black Sea on the other, causing Kojá -Ilí and Nicomedia to be completely insulated; but that communication -was choked up by Constantine, and Nicomedia ceased to be an island. -It would be an easy thing to re-establish this canal, by which means -wood might be procured at a very low price. Nicomedia was conquered -by Sultán Orkhán in the year 731 (1330) and destroyed, in order that -it should never again afford shelter to the Infidels. A large square -tower of that period is still standing on the sea-coast, garrisoned -by seamen, which is now a repository for wood and timber. When Orkhán -besieged this town he gave the first command of his troops to Kojá -Baí, to whom he said, “Isnim vár git,” (You have my leave, go,) which -became the name of the town, by contraction of Isnim-git into Ismit. -After the conquest of Nicomedia, and Kojá-Baí had subdued the adjacent -country, it was called after his name Kojá Ilí and Nicomedia was made -the capital of it; but by the order of Sultán Mohammed II., Nicomedia -was added to Anatoli, and many times since has been given as Arpalik -to Vezírs of three tails. The imperial Khass amounts to twenty-six -thousand, five hundred and twenty-six aspers, twenty-five ziámets, -one hundred and eighty-seven timárs. The judge is appointed with three -hundred aspers a day, but his annual revenue may be reckoned at five -thousand, and that of the Páshá at twenty thousand piastres. The port -is much frequented by great merchants; its public officers are, a -commander of the janissaries and Sipahís, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. -The merchants, most of whom trade in wool, are richly dressed; the -invalids of the janissaries (Otúrák) and Kúrijí are wealthy. The town -contains three thousand five hundred elegant houses with gardens. -The largest is the Seráï of Sultán Murád IV. which is appropriated -to the Emperors, and guarded by two hundred Bostánjís; the next is -the Seráï of the Páshá. There are altogether twenty-three quarters, -three of which are occupied by Infidels, and one by Jews; and -twenty-three mosques. At the old market is the mosque of the tribunal -with one minareh; the mosque of Pertev-Páshá, with a leaden cupola -and one mináreh, stands on the sea-shore, it was erected by order of -Pertev-Páshá who was governor here for seven years in the time of -Sultán Súleimán. It is an elegant, bright mosque built by Kojá Sinán. -There is no establishment for reading the Korán or tradition. The best -bath is also that of Pertev-Páshá, it is a fine building, there is good -air and water, and attentive waiters. The bath of Rostem-Páshá, like -the former, is Sinán’s work. The best khán is that of Pertev-Páshá -with seventy fire-places. Besides the kháns, two hundred magazines for -wood and other materials are in the port, one thousand one hundred -shops of handicraftsmen, and forty coffee-houses, the most brilliant -of which is that of the Serdár, famous for its waiters. This town has -no stone-built Bezestán, but many valuable things are notwithstanding -to be met with in the kháns and shops. Near the palace of the Emperor -is the Imperial arsenal. The houses of the town are all on the side of -the mountain, with the windows looking towards the sea. The streets -are all paved with white stone. At the back of the houses the mountain -is laid out in gardens. The inhabitants are healthy, the air and water -being very good; their complexion is white. The woody mountains East -of the town are called Aghá Danesí (sea of trees), an immense forest -in which it is very easy to lose one’s way; here are trees towering -into the skies, under which ten thousand sheep find shelter in their -shade, which the sun’s rays cannot pierce. In these thick forests -are many saw-mills and works which must be seen, for they cannot be -described; they cut trees of one hundred cubits length, and the trees -of Yalova are famous all over the world. At the end of the gulf are -salt-marshes which afford pure salt, and are under the direction of -a salt-inspector. The white cherries and red apples of Nicomedia are -famous. - - -_Pilgrimages of Nicomedia._ - -On the west side of the town is the tomb of Sheikh-zadeh Mohammed -Efendí, a great Sheikh of the order of Khalvetís, and a great -alchemist. He distributed food and clothes amongst the brethren of -his order, though he never had any fixed revenue. I was entertained -for ten days in the house of my relation Kúl-oghlí Mohammed Chelebí -in this town; then embarked and went to the opposite shore only three -miles distance, whence after a journey of thirty miles, we reached -the port of Deal, the further side of which is called Gebízeh’s Deal, -while this side is called Hersek’s Deal or tongue. The origin of this -tongue of land is ascribed to a Dervish, who having been refused a -passage by the ferryman, took up earth in his apron, and threw it -into the water, where it grew out immediately into a point, on which -he walked to the length of twelve thousand paces, to the great fright -of the ferrymen, who saw that he was going to unite the two shores -and stop their living. They ran after him, and did not desist from -entreating him, till he left the remainder of the sea open, and entered -their boat. He is buried at the Deal of Gebízeh, on the spot called -Deal-bábá. At Hersek Deal is a large Khán for travellers who wait there -for a passage; Hersek-oghlí Ahmed Páshá was Vezír to Mohammed II., and -this Khán, built by him, bears his name. We set sail, and at the end -of fifty miles reached the castle of Kara Yalaváj, built by a Greek -princess, and named Kara Yalaváj-oghlí, who conquered it in the time of -Osmán. The castle was destroyed at the siege, which was difficult and -prolonged, the ruins still remain; in the time of Ilderím this castle -was said to belong to the sanjak of Brússa. The judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the -janissaries and a Súbashi, the town has seven-hundred houses, faced -with brick, and seven mihrabs. In the Market-place is a mosque with a -minareh capable of holding a great number of people, one bath, three -kháns and from forty to fifty shops, but the air being very heavy, -agues frequently prevail. Its yoghúrd and fruits are excellent. Having -visited all that was worth seeing here, we entered our chariots (araba) -took a south east direction, and at the end of five hours arrived at -Germáb Jihán-námah, a pleasure spot in the midst of thick forests, -where we found a couple of hundred tents. We pitched ours and entered -into conversation with the guests, who come here after taking a course -of the purgative waters at Deal, to cleanse themselves in the hotbath, -which was built in the time of Yanko Ben Madián. Helena, the daughter -of Yanko, being leprous and exiled to these mountains, discovered by -accident the marvellous quality of these waters; by bathing in them, -she became cured of her leprosy in forty days, which was the cause -of this building being erected. Her father built six cupolas, of -which two are yet existing, with a large basin beneath, the water of -which is extremely hot, but is pleasant when mixed with cold. These -baths are frequented by a great many people in the cherry season. We -remained here a whole week, after which we again started, and at the -end of a five hours journey, came to the castle of Samánlí, which was -conquered in Sultán Osmán’s time by Samánlí-oghlí from whom it took -its name. Its castle is in ruins, and there are but an hundred and -fifty houses with gardens, a mosque and three mesjids, belonging to the -district of Yalova. The air is heavy. We embarked for the island of -Heibelí, distant twenty miles, which is nine miles in circumference, -and which we have already mentioned in our journey to Brússa. Six -miles further on is the island Táshánlí, which derives its name (Hare -island) from the infinite number of hares, found there; it is only one -mile in circumference, and is uncultivated. The tree Rakíta (?) grows -on this island. After rowing eight miles we came to the island of -Búrgházlí with a strong but small castle, situate on the chalk cliffs -by the sea-shore. The island is eleven miles in circumference, and is -called Búrgház from its castle ([Greek: pyrgos]) it has three hundred -houses with fine gardens and good wells, and is ruled by a Súbashí -and Yassakjí, the inhabitants are all Greeks, and are rich masters of -boats. The island abounds in goats and hares. Their wealth is ascribed -by the author of the Taríkhí Yalován, to the loss of a richly laden -Spanish fleet which was wrecked among the Prince’s Islands in the time -of the Greek Emperors, the cargo of which being thrown on shore or -fished up by divers, enriched the inhabitants of Kizilata (Prince’s -Island), Heibelí (Khalki), Borgházlí (Antigone), Táshánlí (Platys -or Oxia), and Kanálí (Proti). The latter island is eight miles in -circumference, has a convent and a village of one hundred houses. Ten -miles distant from it is Kizilata (the Prince’s Island), a cultivated -island of twenty miles in circumference, with a village of two hundred -Greek houses. It is called Kizilata or the red island, from the -appearance of its mountains, and is near Scutari. On its four sides -Daliáns (look-outs for catching fish) are established. These islands -are seven altogether, ruled by the Bostanjí-báshí, and form part of -the Captain Páshá’s province, who appoints the Súbashí and a Yassakjí. -These seven islands are eighteen miles distance from Constantinople, in -a line between Constantinople and Yelova. I passed seven days visiting -these isles, the weather being unfavourable. At last the wind became -fair, and I entered Constantinople on the first of Rebi-ul-ákhir, after -a month’s absence, landing at Wood-gate. I kissed the hands of my -father and mother, presented them with some gifts from Nicomedia, and -received their benediction. Ketánjí Omer Páshá, an old and particular -friend of my father having been named governor of Trebisonde, he -appointed my father as his Kapú Kiaya or agent at Constantinople, and I -accompanied him on the journey to his government. - - - - -JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE. - - -In the beginning of Jemazi-ul-akhir, 1050, after having taken leave of -my friends, I embarked at the Flour-hall in the ship called Kara-mursal -of Fertíl-oghlí of Trebisonde, and in three hours time arrived at -Yenikoí on the Bosphorus, which has been already described in the -first volume. We there took in five hundred quintals of biscuit, and -ten boat-loads of ballast. In seven hours more we reached the castle -of Kavák, which was built by Sultán Murád IV. as stated in the first -volume. Here we read a Fátihah for a prosperous voyage through the -mouth of the Bosphorus, and, trusting in God, we sailed along the -Asiatic rocks, and arrived at the harbour of Irva on the frontiers of -Kojá-Ilí, a district with a Súbashí, a mosque, a khán, from forty to -fifty magazines, and one hundred houses faced with brick and surrounded -with gardens. The south and south-east sides are all gardens. We took -in water, and advanced by rowing, along the Asiatic shore. At the end -of thirty-six miles we came to Shila, a jurisdiction of Kojá-Ilí, here -are six hundred houses faced with brick, with a garden to each, and -a mosque at the head of the harbour. The small town of Kefken has a -bath, some shops and a khán. One hundred miles further on we arrived -at the island of Kerpe, which is twenty miles in circumference, but is -uninhabited; it is but a mile distant from the continent of Kojá-Ilí. -The small town of Kándria, with gardens, mosque, khán and bath, is -in the mountains of Kándrí at four hours distance from the island. -The river Sakaria here disembogues into the Black Sea; it rises from -the mountains of Cútahia, goes to Kiva, a place belonging to the -district of Nicomedia, and falls into the Black Sea near Kerpe. There -being no wind we rowed ten miles further on, and came to Akcheshár, -a Voivode’s residence in Kojá-Ilí, here is a judge with an income of -one hundred and fifty aspers. It was formerly a fine town, but burnt -by the accursed Cossacks in the reign of Ahmed I. There are now only -six hundred Turkish houses, some faced with brick, and others of wood; -on the market-place stands a brick-built mosque, forty shops but no -Bezestán, a bath and three kháns, one of which was formerly covered -with lead. The cultivation of the place is now in a very low state. -It is the harbour of Bolí; on the shore are seventy magazines full of -wood and timber. Mountain on mountain rises on the east side of the -town, and gardens appear one above the other; the people are healthy -on account of the purity of the air. We passed Ereglí (Heraclea) and -the tower of the shepherds (Chobán Kúlessí) a small castle on a lime -cliff, but not garrisoned. Near it is the statue of the builder, very -like life. We passed the rivers Túfadár and Bárten, the last of which -is a great river, where Egyptian ships enter to be loaded. The Castle -of Bárten was built by the Genoese; and is situated at the end of a -gulf eighteen miles in depth. We went from hence eighteen miles further -north, and arrived at Amassra (Amastris) built by the Greek Emperors, -the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Bolí. The castle is -a strong square building on a high hill, it was attacked at different -times by the Russians, who were always compelled to retreat. It has no -Dizdár, but a judge with an income of one hundred and fifty aspers, -and a commanding officer of the janissaries. In the castle is a mosque -and some mesjíds, but no dining or reading establishment. Amassra is -situated on the east of Sinope, distant five days journey by land, and -one hundred miles by sea. It is also on the east side of Heraclea, at -a distance of four days journey by land, and fifty miles by sea. The -climate and fruits of this place are much praised. On the east and west -side are two excellent ports, the safest refuge in the world; at the -eastern harbour is a bath, and good magazines. The river Kayú forms the -frontier between the sanjak of Bolí and Kastemúní. It is forty miles -from here to the harbour of Kadoz; at the distance of seventy miles is -reached the point of Kerenbe, a cape like that of Sinope; on the rocks -are some remarkable inscriptions. - -The castle of Ainebolí was built by the Genoese, and is now the seat -of a Súbashí, subordinate to Kastemúní; the judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the -janissaries, a Dizdár and garrison. The castle is a strong pentagon on -the seashore; its gate looks to the east, the houses are all faced with -brick, in the market-place are mosques and mesjíds, a bath and shops, -it is the landing-place of Kastemúní, but has no good harbour. We rowed -from hence till we came in sight of the cape of Sinope, and anchored -before Shátir-koí, a pleasant village, where all the passengers went -on shore. The high mountains (Balkán) are covered with tall trees, -which afford excellent timber for the large ships that are built here. -The inhabitants are all ship-builders. Sixty miles to the north, along -the seashore, lies the village of Istefan belonging to Kastemúní; the -houses are faced with brick, and seven miles beyond is the town of -Sinope. - - -_Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope._ - -Omer Ben Abd-ul-assíz, the nephew of Súleimán Ben Abd-ullah of the -Ommiades, having laid siege to Constantinople without effect, also -besieged this castle, but retreated without taking it. It was conquered -by Úlú-Beg the Lord of Kastemúní, and again in the year 796 by Ilderím. -As it is an extremely strong fortress, it was with difficulty taken -after the third siege. It is a free fief entirely separated from -Kastemúní; a Dizdár, Serdár, a judge, Muftí, and Nákíb-ul-ishráf, are -the authorities of the place. - -The inhabitants are a commercial people, being mechanics and merchants, -with some Sheikhs and Ulemas. They commonly wear ferrájís of cloth -and caftáns of Bogassin. The mountains on the east and Kiblah side -of the town are laid out in gardens. The town of Kastemúní is three -journies distant on the east side. Sinope is situated on a cape of the -Black sea, which bears the same name. Opposite to it on the European -shore of the Black sea are the rocks of Kilghra Sultán, and the -Black sea appears between them like a straight, which widens towards -Constantinople and Trebisonde. Sinope is five hundred miles distant -from Constantinople, and lies on the west side of Samsún at four -journies distance. The castle stands on a high hill with triple walls -of Shedád (gigantic or cyclopean) and was built by the Greeks. It is -seven thousand paces in circumference, and has six thousand six hundred -battlements, and eight gates, viz. the sand-gate, the place-gate, the -arsenal-gate, the new-gate, the hospital-gate, the gate of the inner -castle, (Lonjá), the Oghran gate, and the gate of the inner castle -towards the sea. All these gates are of iron and double. The lower part -of the castle on the seashore is washed by the waves on the two sides, -its form is an oblong square; viewed from the top of Mount Búzdepeh it -appears like a ship’s deck divided into three parts. The commander is -a constant prisoner, for the inhabitants are empowered by an Imperial -rescript to kill him if he goes further from the castle than the -distance of a cannon’s shot. The garrison consists of six hundred brave -warlike men. In the time of Sultán Ahmed, on a dark night, the Cossacks -took the town by escalade, and the great Vizír Nassif Páshá, was put -to death for having concealed it from the Sultán. It was retaken from -the Infidels and garrisoned with fifty additional men, and provided -with one thousand quintals of powder, a great number of large and small -guns, and other arms. From that period the watch has been kept nightly -by two hundred officers and Chaúches, and after the music of sunset the -guards, cry their “all’s well,” (Yeg dir Allah). The Infidels tried -several times to retake it, but were routed and driven back in great -confusion, and God be thanked! they have made no new attempt since -the reign of Sultán Murád IV. The town is divided into twenty-four -quarters, those of the Infidels are on the sea-beach; one thousand one -hundred Infidels pay the tribute (Kharráj) and one hundred are exempted -because they are employed in renewing the fortifications; there are -five thousand and sixty ancient houses of stone, with slated roofs, -facing the sea to the west. The oldest mosque is that in the castle of -Ala-ud-dín which has a lead-covered cupola, and a mináreh one hundred -paces long, in a fair proportion, with three gates. The mihráb and the -place of the Muëzzins are of exquisite workmanship, but the minber -is so elegant that angels alone could adequately describe it; I will -make the attempt, but it will be like a drop in the ocean or a mote in -the sun. It was composed by ancient masters of six different kinds of -marble, which are so well put together that even the cleverest artists, -such as Jemshíd would be unable to discover the joints. All the flowers -and blossoms of the earth are here skilfully engraved and carved, so -that in all Islám there is no minber to be compared with this, unless -it be that of the great mosque at Brússa, which, nevertheless, cannot -compete with it in the abundance of floral ornament; in short, all -travellers and artists who behold this minber, place the finger of -astonishment on their mouths, for it seems more like a supernatural -than a human work. Being situated in the suburb of the Castle, it is -always crowded with people whose prayers are put up to Heaven. The -remaining mosques are the Súleimánie in the inner castle with one -mínáreh; the new mosque near the gate of the Meidán (Almeida); the -Ayá Sofiáh, an old mosque faced with brick, the mosque Kefelí outside -of the gate of the Meidán, and that of Mohammed Aghá with a well -proportioned mínáreh. - -The Baths are as follows:—The bath in the upper part of the market -is a double one, that of the lower is a single one like that on the -sea-shore, Yallí, the building, the air and the water are equally -pleasant and agreeable. There is the college of Sultán Ala-ud-dín and -sixty abecedarian schools. When I visited this town, the inhabitants -boasted, that there were two thousand boys and girls who had learned -reading and knew the Korán by heart. There is an Imaret, a house -for lectures on Tradition, and three for reading the Korán, and one -thousand shops, full of valuable goods; provisions, the white bread -especially, and beverages are good. The harbour is excellent, affording -shelter for ships against all quarters of the wind; there is no better -port in the Black sea unless it be that of Báliklava; the best water -is found here, and the beautiful symmetry of the Turkish youth of both -sexes is to be attributed to the mildness of the climate. - -I visited the tombs of Sídí Belál Sultán, Súbhan Khojá, that of Jují -Sultán, in the green monument within the Castle; that of Kází-Beg -Sultán in the college of Ala-ud-dín, that of Bekir Khojá below it, that -of Imrza Efendí at the Sand-gate, and those of Hamza and Emír Efendi -near it. - -South of the town is the high mountain called, Búzdepeh (ice peak) -opposite to which the rocks of Kilghra are seen on the European shore; -foxes, jackals and bears abound on this mountain. We spent three days -in this town, then re-embarked and at the end of three miles came to -Findíják-ághzí, whose inhabitants are all boatmen and ship-builders. -The river Kizil Irmák here enters the sea, it rises from a mountain -in the sanjak of Angora, passes under the bridge of Cháshnegvír to -the castle of Osmánjík, and to Hájí Hamza near Túsia, it derives the -name red river from its reddish colour. Higher up the river in the -mountains are found cornelians large enough for handles of knives and -daggers; no village in the neighbourhood is cultivated through fear of -the Cossacks; forty miles further on we came to Báfra, the seat of a -Súbashí subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers a day; there is a separate Serdár (officer -of the janissaries). The distance from Samsún is a day’s journey. -Báfra lies south-west of Samsún and at two farsangs distance from the -Black sea. The Kizíl-Irmák, which comes from the district of Gunánabád -flows on the west side of Báfra, and near this place it is crossed by -a bridge of fir-trees, which forms a wooden arch from one side of the -shore to the other; it is well worth seeing. There are two mosques and -two baths at Báfra, and the houses are all built of fir. - - -_Description of the Castle of Samsún._ - -It was first taken from the Greeks, who built it, by Ala-ud-dín a -prince of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Sultán Ilderím; it is -the seat of a voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge’s -provision is fixed at one hundred and fifty aspers. Order is kept -by a commanding officer of the janissaries (Serdár Kiayayerí), and -the commander of the castle, Dizdár, but there is neither Muftí nor -Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The inhabitants are all packers and boatmen, no great -rich men (Awán) but a number of Ulemás. Every body dresses according -to his means. The distance between Sinope and Samsún is by sea one -hundred and fifty miles, and five days journey by land. Sinope lies -to the south of Samsún, which is a strong fortress on the seashore. -In the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror of Erla, the Cossacks -took this castle and destroyed the fortifications in some places, -which, after they were driven away, were repaired, and the garrison -strengthened, with great store of ammunition; it is now five thousand -paces in circumference, has seventy towers, two thousand battlements -and four gates. The river of Chárshenbe-Bazárí, which passes before -Amasia, disembogues in the Black Sea on the east side of Samsún. It -is a large river, not fordable, rises in the sanjak of Bolí, goes to -Tokát, and then passes before Amasia; hence originates the proverb -coarsely applied by the inhabitants of Tokát to those of Amasia; “you -drink what we have defiled.” The water of Samsún is called bad, it is -however clear and transparent. The houses are faced with brick and -surrounded with gardens, it has a mosque and kháns, but no college or -reading establishment, seven abecedarian schools, a bath, and a market, -but no port. It is an open place but the anchoring ground good. The -grapes and pears of Samsún are pickled (túrshí) and sent in casks to -Constantinople; its cables, ropes and resin are famous. The town is -situated on the edge of a gulf. We visited all that was to be seen at -this place and then re-embarked with our companions. - - -_Description of the Castle of Onia._ - -It was built by one of the Emperors of Trebisonde, was first conquered -by Keikúbád of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Orkhán. It is -the seat of a Voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge -is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers: a Serdár and Dizdár -are in possession of the military power, but there is no Muftí nor -Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The castle is a square stone building on the seashore; -the houses well inhabited, the mosques light, and the markets populous. -Having seen all this we re-embarked, and proceeding a few miles with a -favourable wind, came to Fátsha on the seashore, consisting of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a khán and a bath. It is a ziámet belonging -to Janík; the inhabitants are for the most part Greeks. The cape -of Stephan is a sharp point advancing ten miles into the sea. The -mountains are interspersed with well cultivated Greek villages. We -passed it and came more northward to the castle of Wúna, built by the -Genoese, and conquered by Úzún Hassan the lord of Azerbeiján, who took -this castle together with those of Gumish Khání, Baiburd and Jánkha, -at a later period it was taken by Mohammed II. It is the seat of a -Súbashí from the sanjak of Janík. The castle is of a round shape, and -stands on a hill by the seashore, but it is not strongly garrisoned; -the gate looks to the east. It is ruled by a Serdár, and a judge with -an income of one hundred and fifty aspers. It has mosques, kháns and -baths. The inhabitants are known by the name of Wúna Greeks and Turks. -It is a good port, where the largest ships can anchor at any time. We -went from hence, straight before the wind, one hundred miles to the -castle of Gíressin built by Constantine the founder of Constantinople. -It fell into the hands of Úzún Hassan, was afterwards taken by the -Genoese, and lastly by Mohammed II., who ordered his general Mahmúd -Pashá to enter the castle in the night, the name of the castle is said -to have originated from this order, “giressin” (thou shalt enter). -It is on the frontier of the Pashalik of Trebisonde, to the Khass of -which it belongs; its public officers are, a judge with one hundred -and fifty aspers, a Serdár of the janissaries, a Dizdár of the castle, -an inspector of the custom-house, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. It is -situated on the seashore between Janík and Trebisonde, to the east -of the latter. By the appearance of the ruins, it was a large town -when in the possession of the Genoese, but it is now only a small one, -with mosques and kháns, a bath and a market; the gardens yield fruit -plentifully. Though the anchorage is excellent, yet the harbour affords -no shelter against contrary winds. On the west side of it is a small -island, where the Cossacks concealed themselves when they burnt and -plundered this town, which is not defended by the Castle. As it belongs -to the government of Trebisonde, some hundred men of Omer-Páshá’s suite -took horse here and continued their journey to Trebisonde by land. -We then steered our boat to the north, and arrived at the castle of -Purpolúm, which is a small square castle, situated on a hill by the -sea-shore, with a commander (Dizdár) and a garrison; the inhabitants -are Greeks. We weathered the Cape of Zemreh, where villages are to be -seen in the mountains. The castle of Kúrelí is a district belonging to -Trebisonde. The castle is situated on a hill by the seashore. Further -on we came to the station of Popolí on a great gulf, where traces of -ruined castles are to be seen in many places. Further to the north is -the castle of Kelpe, a district belonging to Trebisonde. The castle -stands on a high hill by the seashore, and was built by the Genoese. -The castle of Bozúr-búrní is a small square castle on a rocky cape, -called the point of Bozúr, which was the name of a monk who built it. -The castle of Akche-abád, a large district belonging to Trebisonde. -The castle is a strong pentagon on the seashore, also built by the -Greeks. Pulta Bazárí is the seat of a Súbashí and Naíb subordinate to -Trebisonde. A fair is held here every week which is visited by many -thousand inhabitants from the neighbouring villages; it belongs as Wakf -to the foundations of Khatúnieh the mother of Selim I., the Súbashí -is at the same time the Mutevellí or administrator of the Wakf. The -port is one of the most celebrated in the Black sea on account of its -safety. The torrent of Kalatímána, which rises in the mountains of -Trebisonde, enters the Black sea near the harbour of Púlta. The valley -of Seredere is enlivened by cultivated villages, whose inhabitants -go in boats to the market of Trebisonde, to the south of which these -places are situated. - - -_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the -Capital of the Lezgians; God guard it from all mischief!_ - -It was built by the Greeks and was conquered by Úzún Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján, but retaken by the Greek Emperors at the time of -Timúr’s invasion, until, in the year 878 (1473), it fell into the power -of Mohammed II. He brought forward an immense army by way of Jánkha, -and gave battle to Úzún Hassan in the field of Terjián, where forty -thousand of Úzún Hassan’s men were slain, and he himself fled to the -Castle of Azerbeiján. Since the victory at Kossova of Sultán Murád I. -no greater victory had been gained. Mohammed II. conquered the town of -Trebisonde thirteen years before; its name was spelt Tarbefzún (joy -increasing). Mohámmed II. fixed his residence here, coined money, had -public prayer performed in his name, and remained here three years. -He subjected the northern provinces of Georgia, Mingrelia, and Abaza, -established his son Báyazíd here as commander, and went himself to -his third residence, Constantinople. Báyazíd II. having ascended the -throne in his father’s place, gave the government of Trebisonde to -his son Selím I. who twice passed over to the Crimea, and heading the -Tátárs led them against his father. Being defeated in battle, once at -Varna, and once at Adrianople, he left his son Súleimán his Lieutenant -at Trebisonde, and retired in disguise into Persia, where he played -at chess with Sháh Ismaíl, then travelled over Baghdád, Meshhed, -Mecca and Medina to Egypt, conversed there with Ebú Sa’úd Járehí, and -Mezrúk Kafákí, who said “O Selím go into Rúm and Persia, and then -come to Egypt.” After three years travel he returned to Trebisonde, -from whence, keeping up secret intelligence with the janissaries and -with Menglí Geraí Khán, he led a Tátár army against his father, whom -he vanquished at Chorlí, and banished to Dimitoka, where he died at -the village of Hawsa. Sultán Selím remained absolute monarch, and -immortalised himself by the victories of Chaldir and Egypt. - -Súleimán was brought up at Trebisonde, which has been the seat of four -Ottoman Emperors. In remembrance of his youth spent here, he sent his -mother to this place and raised it to a separate province, with the -addition of the sanjak of Batúm. It is a Beglerbeglik of two tails, -but was given more than once to Vezírs of three tails as arpalik, in -the reign of Murád IV. and Ibrahím. The Khass of the Páshá consists -according to the Kanún (law) of forty thousand aspers. Two Súbashí are -attached to this place, and the Páshá may get, in a fair way, every -year, nineteen thousand piastres, but if he is severe, even thirty -thousand piastres. There are five sanjaks, viz. Jánkha, Batúm, Zír, -Gonia, and Trebisonde, which is the chief place. The feudal officers -are a Defterdár of the Timárs, a Kiayá of the Defter, an Inspector of -the rolls (Defter-emíní), and a Kiayá of the Chaúshes; an inspector of -the Chaúshes is also appointed here. There are forty-three ziámets, two -hundred and twenty-six timárs in the sanjak of Trebisonde, and thirteen -ziámets with seventy-two timárs in the sanjak of Batúm, altogether one -thousand eight hundred well-armed men, besides a thousand Jebelis of -the Páshá, so that the whole including the officers amounts to three -thousand men. They hold villages and land on condition that they should -go to war under the command of the Páshá, which if they do not they -forfeit their leases. - - -_Begs of Abaza Tribes._ - -The tribe of Jájlar, of Erlán, of Chándalar, of great Chándalar, -of Kechilar, of A’rtlar, of Kámishlar, of Sújelar, of Bozúrúk, of -Kúnassí, of Ashuflí, of Yokarúlí, of Jembeh, and of Súntija. There -are seventy Abaza tribes, who have made obeisance since the time -of Sultán Súleimán, and who every year in token thereof, send in a -tribute consisting of boys and girls, camphor, candles, pelisses, and -a thousand pieces of coarse linen for towels for the Imperial kitchen, -to the Páshá of Trebisonde, who then renews the treaty of protection -with them. Envoys come every year from Mingrelia with this tribute -to Trebisonde, according to the constitution of Sultán Súleimán. The -Judge, a Mollá with five hundred aspers, extends his jurisdiction to -forty-one districts, and makes annually a revenue of eight thousand -piastres. - - -_The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde._ - -These are the Páshá, Muftí, Nakíb, and instead of the Serdár of the -janissaries a Chaúsh of high authority, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a -Súbashí, an Ayák Náíb, a Mohtessib, an inspector of the Custom-house -and of the fish-market, a Sháh Bender or chief of the merchants, an -inspector of the dyers, of the wine, and wax, in short seventeen public -magistrates appointed by an Imperial rescript. The inhabitants also -possess an Imperial privilege which allows them to kill the Jews who -enter the town, the reason of their being thus empowered shall, if it -pleases God! be detailed in another place. The town is situate on the -eastern side of the Black sea and is surrounded by delightful gardens. -The distance from Constantinople is exactly a thousand miles. The -mountains of the Lezgís are towards the south and the east; the name -Lezgí has been corrupted into Laz. Mohammed II. having conquered this -town, colonized it from all quarters and rendered it a populous place; -the inhabitants are Lezgís and Janissaries, who inherit this right -from father to son. Their names are, Alí, Welí, Khodaverdí, Ja’fer, -Peshír, Feslí, Memí, Meizer, Fakhzád, and Memet, with the word báshá -added to the end, which is pronounced here páshá. The surnames are, son -of Fertúl, Fodúl, Fazár, Kashúmbúr, Katráz, Kalafát, Kosdúd, Júndah, -Alialí, Súrmenelí, Pípolí, Kashíd-bárí, Siámí, Jorkájí, Khángí-chíchú, -Kotúzmeslí, A’álí, Gúnelí; the names of the women, Omkhán, Esma -Khán, Rábieh, Assieh, Hánifeh, Afífa, Saikha, Fátima, Khúftí, Túntí, -Gulshákhí, Mihrmáh, Khiva, Khúma, Zákhila, and Ánifah; the names of the -slaves, Ússuf, Paiván, Kananan, Allah-kúlí, Rostem, Apártí, &c. These -names were originally pure Arabic names, but are spelt in such a way by -the Lezgians, that they appear quite strange. Many of the inhabitants -of the order of the Dervíshes Gulshení wear necklaces of coral, jasper -and turquoise. Both Prose and Poetry are cultivated to a high degree, -and there are in our age no less than eleven poets, every one of whom -is the author of a Diván or alphabetical collection of Ghazels (Odes). - - -_Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde._ - -Ghanayí Efendí was Secretary to Tayem-Páshá, and afterwards to Melek -Ahmed Páshá. He knew the dictionaries of Kamús and Shemií by heart, -as well as the discourses of Urfí and Túzúlí. Ghanayí went with Melek -Ahmed Páshá to his government of Rúmelí, and is buried at Sofía in -the mosque of Dervish Mohammed Páshá 1021 (1612). Alí-jání succeeded -to his father’s office. He left three volumes in verse and prose, in -comparison with which Weissi himself is but a stammering child. - - -_Form and Size of the Town, and Description of its Monuments._ - -It consists of two great castles between the edge of Mount Bozdepeh -and the shore of the Black sea, and is divided into three parts; the -first is the lower castle, the second the middle castle, and the -innermost or tower castle, it is extremely strong being protected by -mount Bozdepeh. The ditch is very deep, and seventy paces broad, all -cut in lime-stone; inside this castle is a mosque, barracks for the -garrison, magazines and storehouses. On the north side a gate leads to -the middle castle, which is the only open gate; a second secret gate -(Oghrún Kapú) is always kept closed. The middle castle is an oblong -square enclosed by walls. The gate on the east side which leads from -the tower or innermost castle is called the New Friday’s gate, the -second gate is also at the end of the same wall. The tanneries are -outside of it, and it is therefore called the tanner’s gate. In front -of it flows a rivulet which rises in the mountains of Bozdepeh and the -Lezgían mountains on the east, and passes through the tanneries into -the sea; it sometimes swells into a furious torrent. In the centre of -the tanner’s market is a large bridge built of stone by Úzún Hassan -the lord of the castle, it lies to the east of Erzerúm. The third gate -of the middle castle is on the western wall and is called the prison -gate, where the malefactors and debtors are confined. From this gate -you pass over a stone bridge to the gate Za’anús. The fourth gate is on -the northern side of the wall, and leads to the lower castle, or third -division of the town, and is therefore called the lower castle gate. - - -_Description of the Lower Castle._ - -The north wall abuts on the sea, the castle is of a square form, -nineteen thousand paces in circumference. It has also four gates, -viz.—the gate of Za’anús next the prison gate close to the walls, -leading to a long bridge; the gate of Sútkháneh leading to the quarters -of the Christians; the gate of Mevlúz which signifies in Greek (?) a -small stone, from the abundance of pebbles that lie on the shore. In -the language of the Lazes, Mevlúz is the name of spurs or piers which -are raised to support ruined walls. The walls of the lower castle -extend on both sides to the sea, so that the town is closed against -hostile invasion, by a wall running along the seashore. The fourth gate -is that of Múm Kháneh or the wax fabric, because all the candles, of -which a great number are made at Trebisonde are manufactured outside -of this gate. Three quarters of the town are inhabited by Moslims and -Christians, but by no Jews. The houses rising one above the other are -all faced with brick and look to the north or west. - - -_Description of the Mosques._ - -In the centre of the castle was an old Christian church, Mohammed II. -having conquered the town in the year 865, turned the mihráb from -the east towards the Kiblah. Its mihráb and minber are of ancient -workmanship, and on the east side is an oratory (mahfil) of most -elegant carving. The wood is cypress, nut, and box; it is always -closed, and reserved entirely for the Emperor’s use. There are besides -three other mahfils or oratories supported by pillars in this mosque, -where people are also allowed to pray when there is a great crowd. -It has two gates, an elegant mináreh, and cells for students in the -courtyard outside; it is covered with lead. In the west suburb are also -four mosques, and two in the eastern; the mosque of the tower castle -is a beautiful structure with a mináreh much ornamented. The mosque of -Khatúnieh was built by the mother of Selím I. who was born here, it is -extremely well endowed, the market called Púlta-bazárí belongs to its -foundation, with many cultivated villages. The cupola is illuminated -by candles every night, its elegant mináreh pierces the sky. The gate -and walls of this mosque are built of black polished stone, and white -marble, in alternate rows; it was built in the year 920. The mosque -of Súleimán Beg on the west of the mosque of Khatúnieh, but at a mile -distance from it on the place of Kawák, has one mináreh covered with -lead. - -The mosque of Ayá Sofiyáh is on the seashore on the west side, it was -built in the time of the Infidels. Kúrd Alí-beg took it out of the -hands of the Christians, in the year 951 (1573), and adorned it with a -fine minber and mahfil; it is beautified with many marble and granite -columns, which cannot be described with sufficient praise. The mihráb -and minber are in the ancient style, and it is surrounded by vineyards -and plantations of olives. - -The mosque of Wárdogdi-Beg stands half a mile distance south of the -mosque of Khatúnieh in the quarter of Tekfúr-seraï, it was raised from -a mesjíd into a mosque by Torghúd-beg in 985 (1577). It has a well -proportioned gate and mináreh. The new mosque was formerly a church, -and stands in a lofty situation. The mosque of Iskender Páshá, known -by the name of Káfir-Meidání, (the Infidel’s place) has its cupola -entirely covered with lead, with a well proportioned mináreh. - - -_Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c._ - -Outside of the courtyard of the mosque of the middle castle is the -college of Mohammed II. with a great number of cells and students. -There is a general lecture (Dersí-a’ám), the lecturer holds the degree -of a Molla; it is a mine of poets, and meeting-place of wits. The -college of Katúnieh is adorned with cells on four sides; the students -receive fixed quantities of meat and wax for their subsistence. The -college of Iskender Páshá on the north side of the mosque, that bears -the same name, is richly endowed with stipends for the students. The -reading-houses of Trebisonde are those of the middle castle, at the -mosque of Mohammed II., where reading after the manner of Ibn Kether -is introduced; that of Khatúnieh, where works on the Korán are read -after the seven established methods of Jeserí and Shátebieh; and that -of Iskender Páshá close to its mosque. The abecedarian schools for boys -are that of Mohammed II. in the middle castle; the school of the new -mosque, a school so blessed, that a boy who has been taught here to -read the Bismillah (in God’s name!) cannot fail to be a learned man; -the elegant school of Khatúnieh on the west side of the mosque is built -of stone, with a cupola, where orphans are supplied with mental and -bodily food, with dresses on great festivals and presents besides; and -the schools of Iskender Páshá; these are the most celebrated. - -There is a pleasant double bath for the use of both sexes, in the -middle castle near the gate which leads to the lower castle. - -The bath of the tower is on the north wall of the innermost or tower -castle; it is a single one, and is said to have existed in the time -of the Infidels. The bath of the Imáret, built by Khatúnieh mother of -Selím I. The bath of the lower castle is a single one, that of Iskender -Páshá is double; the bath of the Infidels is between the New Friday -quarter and the Infidels’ place, and the bath of Tekfúr-seraï. There -are besides at Trebisonde two hundred and forty-five private baths, and -a great number of Kháns. The Khán of Khátúnieh has a stable equal to -that of Antar, which will accommodate one hundred horses; besides many -other Kháns for merchants and single persons. - -Of the Market-places, the first is outside of the gate of the -wax-manufactory. There is a well-built Bezestán where the Arabian and -Persian merchants reside, who are extremely rich and wealthy. In the -middle castle the market called the small market, is furnished with -every thing; its shops amount to the number of eighty. - -The Imárets are those of Mohammed II. in the middle castle, -accommodating both rich and poor. The Imáret of Khátúnieh, close to -the mosque, is not to be equalled, even at Trebisonde; passengers and -boatmen may dine here at their pleasure; there is an oven for baking -white bread, and a cellar (kílár) for keeping the provisions of the -Imáret. Near the kitchen is the eating-place for the poor, and the -students have a proper dining-hall. Every day, in the morning, and at -noon a dish of soup and a piece of bread is provided for each, and -every Friday a Zerde Pilaw, and Yakhní (stewed meat); these regulations -are to remain in force, as long as it pleases God. - - -_Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde._ - -The climate and the air being extremely favourable, the inhabitants are -all jolly merry fellows, who think of nothing but eating and drinking, -of amusement and pleasure. Being all idle amorous fellows, their -colour is red, and the women are fair, coming from Abaza, Georgia and -Circassia; every one a moon or a portion of the sun. - - -_Occupations, Guilds, &c._ - -The inhabitants are divided from the earliest period into seven -classes. The first are the great and mighty Princes and sons of Princes -(Beg and Beg-zadeh), who are dressed in magnificent pelisses of sables. -The second are the Ulemás, the sheikhs and pious men, who dress -according to their condition and live on endowments. The third are the -merchants, who trade by sea and land to Ozakov, into the country of the -Cossacks, into Mingrelia, Circassia, Abaza and the Crimea; they dress -in ferrájís of cloth and dolimáns called kontosh. The fourth are the -handicraftsmen, who dress themselves in ferrájís of cloth and bogássín. -The fifth are the boatmen of the Black Sea; they have their peculiar -dress, with iron buckles, shalwárs, dolímáns of cloth, and a kind of -lining (astár) wrapped round the head, ready, thus accoutred, to trade -or to fight at sea. The sixth class are the men of the vineyards, -because the mountains of Bozdepeh are all planted with vines, and in -the register are set down no less than thirty-one thousand gardens and -vineyards, so that if only one man is reckoned to each garden, there -are thirty-one thousand gardeners, but in some there are two and three. -The seventh class are the fishermen, a calling in which many thousand -men are employed. - - -_Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts._ - -The goldsmiths of Trebisonde are the first in the world. Selím I. being -brought up in this town was taught the art of a goldsmith, and cut dies -for the coin of his father Báyazíd, so skilfully, that they appeared -as if engraved in marble; I saw some of this coin at Trebisonde. -Súleimán (the great) himself was the apprentice of a Greek called -Constantine, who was the foster brother of Yahya Efendí, who is buried -at Beshik-tásh. From this time the goldsmiths of Trebisonde became the -most famous in the world, and work vases for rose-water and incense, -swords, daggers and knife-handles in most wonderful perfection. The -knives of Ghorghúr-oghlí are the most famous of all; the hatchets -of Trebisonde are a new and clever invention. The inlaid work of -pearl-shells, with which tables, pulpits, inkstands, sand-boxes and -chairs are ornamented in such perfection, that they cannot be equalled -in any country, except it be by the pearl-shell work of India. - - -_Eatables and Beverages._ - -The water of Trebisonde is fresh as the spring of life; the must of the -raisins of Bozdepeh is sweet, and gives no headache to those who drink -it; the sherbets called the triple, the muscat, and the clove wine are -the best. The gardens produce most exquisite fruit; fine flavoured -grapes, cherries red as woman’s lips, pears of different kinds, apples -called Sinope, figs called Bádinjíán-Injúr, which are not found so -sweet any where else, different kinds of lemons, oranges of a deep -purple colour, pomegranates and olives, of which alone there are seven -sorts to be found nowhere else except at Damascus and Jerusalem. One of -the small sorts is eaten before it is quite ripe and resembles a black -cherry; this is also an exclusive production of Trebisonde. Another -fruit, which is called the date of Trebisonde is roasted on stoves, and -is exported to many places; it is a sweet fruit, and has two or three -kernels. The ruby-coloured pink which grows here, is peculiar to this -place, each blossom is like a red rose, and perfumes the brain with the -sweetest scent, and weighs, without the stalk, from five to six drachms. - -The fish which are worthy of mention are Lorek-bálighí, Kefál-bálighí -(Cephalus), the Kalkán-balighí (Rhombus), which if eaten by women -renders them prolific; the fish called Kiziljeh-tekerbálik, with a red -head and delicious to taste; the gold fish, the Sgombro which is taken -in the season Erbain (forty days). But the most precious of all, which -frequently causes bloody strifes and quarrels in the Market-place, is -the Khamsí-bálighí taken in the season of Khamsan, (the fifty days when -southerly winds blow); these fish were formerly thrown on the shore at -Trebisonde by virtue of a talisman erected, as is said, by Alexander, -before the gate of the town, representing a fish of this kind in brass -on a column of stone; but on the birth-night of the prophet, when all -talismans lost their power, the same happened to this at Trebisonde; -thus the fish are no longer thrown on the shore, but the sea abounds -with them during the said fifty days. At this season boats loaded -with these fish arrive in the harbour, and the dealers in fish cry -them in a peculiar manner, at the same time sounding a kind of horn -or trumpet; as soon as this sound is heard, the whole town is in an -uproar, and people who hear it, even when at prayer, instantly cease, -and run like madmen after it. It is a shining white fish of a span’s -length, and is an aphrodisiac of extraordinary potency; strengthening -and easy of digestion, does not smell like fish, creates no fever in -those who eat it, and also cures sore mouths. If the head of this fish, -Khamsí-bálighí, pronounced Khápsi-bálighí, is burnt, serpents and other -venomous reptiles are killed by the smoke. The people use it during -forty days in all their dishes, to which it gives a peculiar flavour, -it is thus used with yakhní, roasts, pies, and baklava (mixed pies), -a dish called pílegí is made of it in the following manner, the fish -is first cleaned, then cut into slices on which is laid parsley and -celery, then another layer of fish, the best oil is then poured on it, -and it is cooked over the fire for one hour, it thus becomes quite a -luminous dish, which may be said to illuminate those who eat it. But -however this fish may be dressed and eaten, it is extremely useful to -the stomach and the eyes, and is a dish of friendship and love. God the -Almighty has blessed this town with all kinds of rare trees, including -box, cypress, and Turkish nut. It is wonderful that in the mountains -of Erzerúm, situated a great deal further to the south, all is winter -and storm, while here are roses, syringas, lemons, oranges, and other -sweet fruits. The winter and the air is mild, and the nature of the -people partakes of this happy equality of the seasons; they are kind -to strangers, but the Greeks and the Lezgians, the Chichú and Chifta -are extremely troublesome people; the language of the Lezgís cannot -be written or expressed in Turkish orthography; they have a peculiar -dialect, which even the inhabitants of Trebisonde do not understand -without an interpreter; they are for the most part boatmen, who -navigate the river Chorúgh to Mingrelia, carrying boxwood and slaves, -with which they trade to the harbour of Trebisonde, one of the best of -anchoring grounds and ports; it is open to the west, and looks towards -the harbour of Kaffa in Crimea, three hundred miles distance. - - -_Walks of Trebisonde._ - -On the place of Kawák outside of the gate of Za’anús, the Páshás play -jeríd with their troops on days of recreation. Three masts are erected -in the centre, one of them having a golden top which is shot at by -arrows. There have been no Jews at Trebisonde since the time of Sultán -Selím, who was governor of the town, the following circumstance was -the cause; a Dervish discovered on a piece of leather (saffian), that -was handed about for sale, an inscription, written in a way not to be -observed by every body, which implored the assistance of all righteous -Moslims, to deliver two innocent Moslim youths tyrannically shut up -in the Jewish tanneries. The Dervish having explained the inscription -to Prince Selím, a general search of all the Jewish tanneries took -place by an armed force, when not only the two brothers, lost many -years before, but many other Moslim boys were found, on whose backs -the Jewish tanners had worked in tanning their skins. This discovery -occasioned a general slaughter and banishment of the Jews, none of whom -have since dared to show their faces at Trebisonde, the inhabitants of -which town are a religious and devout people. - - -_Praise of the River Khosh-oghlán._ - -It rises in the province of Erzerúm, in the southern part of the -District Kerkdeh, from the mountain called Yailak-mesjidí, and after -supplying water to many gardens, passes on the right side of Trebisonde -into the sea. On the mountain whence it issues, stands a castle built -by one Khosh-oglán of the Chobanián family, but the mountain itself is -called Agháj-bashtághí by the inhabitants; it is passed on the way from -this town to Baiburd by a gate. - - -_Visit to the Monuments of Sultáns and Saints._ - -The mother of Selím I. is buried before the gate of Za’anús beneath -a high cupola, ninety men are appointed there to be monument-keepers -and readers of the Koran, which is read through three times a day. -She was a pious lady, a second Rabia Adúyeh. The cupola is covered -with lead as well as the mosque near the monument. God’s mercy upon -her! I remained three months at Erzerúm making the acquaintance of all -learned and distinguished men, and then accompanied Hossein-aghá, the -kiaya of Ketánjí Omer Páshá, who set out with presents on an embassy to -Mingrelia. - - - - -JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA. - - -We embarked in Lezgian boats with an escort of two hundred men, and, -trusting in the Lord, sailed from the harbour of Trebisonde to the -north. The station of Menzil Degermen Deressí is near Trebisonde, and -is a large harbour. From thence we sailed northward to Shána where -there is a harbour called Rútha. The forests are principally hazel, -the nuts of which are everywhere famous. At the end of some miles -from this place we arrived at the castle of Súrmena, built by the -infidel Greeks, and conquered by Mohammed II. from whom it was taken by -Hersek-oghlí; there is a Súbashí, a judge with an income of one hundred -and fifty aspers, a Dizdár and a garrison; it has an excellent harbour -sheltered against the wind from all quarters except the north-west, -but when the wind blows from that quarter three or four anchors are -required to enable ships to ride in safety. The district of Mahnúz -consists of sixty villages belonging to Trebisonde, the whole mountain -is covered with box-trees, the wood of which is made into handles for -spoons. There is the large village Kalipravúlí, whose inhabitants are -all Chíchú, and the large place of Khobán on the seashore, surrounded -with gardens; the inhabitants of which are Lezgians. The strong town -of Konia in the sanjak Batúm belonging to Trebisonde has thirteen -ziámets and seventy-two timárs, the militia is ruled by a Cherí-bashí -and Alaï-Beg, who in war time commands eight hundred men, three -hundred are the Páshá’s private troop; the garrison of the fortresses -on the frontier consist of a Dizdár and five hundred men. The judge -has a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers, but his revenues are -_in partibus_, because the inhabitants are all Chíchú Lezgís, who can -only be controlled at the point of the lance. The revenues of the -judge may amount to one thousand, those of the Beg to seven thousand -piastres; the castle originally built by the Infidels, stands on a high -square hill, it was conquered by Mohammed II. and has been many times -plundered by the Cossacks. The houses are faced with brick, as are also -the mosque and kháns. It lies on the river Júrúgh, the spelling of -this word is corrupted from Júí-rúh, which rises in the mountains of -Jánkha-Kawilí-hissár and Shín-kara on the west side of Erzerúm, passes -through Baiburd, waters the country of the Lezgians, and enters the -Black Sea near the castle of Konia. - -It has neither ferry nor bridge, but is a river like a sea, covered -with many thousand Lezgian boats, trading on this river to Mingrelia -with salt, iron, and different sorts of linen, and bringing box, -wax, honey, with slaves of both sexes, from Mingrelia and Georgia to -Trebisonde. From Konia we advanced to the north, and only disembarked -at the place Kemerler, then entered the river Júrúgh, and sailed -eastward for one day. - - -_Description of Mingrelia._ - -The sanjak of Konia ends at Khánedá the frontier of the tribe Ada Khosh -of Mingrelia. The mountains are covered with box, and the gardens are -planted with box-trees. We slept one night in the village of the Beg, -who did every thing to treat us kindly. We saw more than seventy -Mingrelian villages, each one like a town, and then returned to Konia; -our companions went back to Trebisonde, but I was commanded to go with -the company of the Zenberekjí-báshí of Konia to the siege of Assov. - - - - -JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV) 1050. - - -We embarked with three hundred fusileers of the janissaries, and -five rowing boys of my own, in ten Lezgian barks called Munkesileh. -These boats are made of the large plane-trees growing on the river -Júrúgh, and consist of three planks, two of which form the sides, and -the third forms the bottom; the sides are lined with reed twice as -thick as a man’s wrist; this lining of reed keeps them afloat in the -storms of the Black Sea, and they swim like sponges; they have neither -stern nor forecastle, but are equal on both sides, and are called -Munkesileh. On these boats I left Konia with a good wind, passed the -river Júrúgh and arrived at the harbour Sofárí on the frontier of -Mingrelia. The landing-place (iskele) of Khandra has no port (limán). -The landing-place Súri has an old ruined port. The landing-place -Yarissa is a ruined castle where goats are now kept. The landing-place -Raijeh is without a port, but has an old ruined castle. These five -landing-places are all on the frontiers of Mingrelia, they are only -visited in the summer time by the merchants who carry on the slave -trade. The mountains are inhabited by forty or fifty thousand warlike -Mingrelians. We passed the said five landing places, and came next day, -at a hundred miles distance from Konia, to the great river Fáshechai -(Phasus). The Fásha (Phasus) is a great river like the Danube, in some -places a mile, in others but half a mile broad, and from eight to ten -fathoms deep, fresh as the spring of life; it disembogues in a gulf -at the north end of the Black Sea, one thousand three hundred miles -from Constantinople. It rises between Mingrelia, Georgia, Thágistán, -Kabartaí, and Circassia, from Mount Caucasus (Kúhal-burz), Ubúr, and -Sadasha, and passes between Mingrelia and Abáza into the Black Sea. On -the east side are the Mingrelian villages, on the west the Abáza; and -both shores being covered with thick forests, the two people mutually -steal their children of both sexes and sell them as slaves. We passed -the Phasus, marching to the west, and for a whole day went along the -shore of the Black Sea. - - -_Description of the Land of the Abáza._ - -It forms the northern shore of the Black Sea, begins at the mouth of -the Phasus, and ends at the castle of Anapa near the island of Tamán. -The following tradition is related of the origin of Abáza. According to -the most authentic historians Adam was created in Paradise in the true -Tátár form, and having after his exile met Eva on mount A’arafát, they -begat forty thousand children all in the form of Tátárs. Adam having -spoken Arabic in Paradise, forgot it when on earth, and began to speak -Hebrew, Syrian, Dehkilí (?) and Persian, which languages were spoken -till the deluge, after which mankind divided into seventy-two nations -and as many languages. The first who invented new languages was Edrís -(Enoch) who first wrote and bound books, and hid them in the pyramids, -whence they were taken out after the deluge by the philosophers, who by -this means multiplied the languages to the number of one hundred and -forty-seven. Ismail retrieved the Arabic and Persian originally spoken -in Paradise, and Esau brought forward the Turkish as the language of -Tátárs; the people belonging to them are:—the Hind, Sind, Moghání, -Kurds, Múltáns, Baniáns, and twelve nations of fire worshippers, -with as many languages; the Noghaí, Heshdek, Lipka, Chagataí, Lezgí, -Georgians, Mingrelians, Shúrshád, Dadián, Ajikbásh, Armenians, Greeks, -Turcomans, Copts, and Israelites or Jews. The Franks divided into -Spaniards, French, Genoese, Portuguese, Venetians, Tuscans, Servians, -Bulgarians, Croats, Italians, &c. Four children of Menúchehr, the old -Persian king, having fled towards Erla (Agra), and being asked who -they were, answered, “we are four” (Men chár is) which being corrupted -remained the name of their descendants, Majár. Of the Arabs forty -tribes first settled in Egypt, such as the Mogrebí, Fess, Merakesh, -Afenú, Maibornú, Jíchel Khán, Aswán, Súdání, Fúnjí, Kara-mánkí, -Bogháskí, Múnjí, Berbers, Nubians, Zenjí, Habeshí, Gulapshí, Alewí, -Rompí, the Arabs of Yemen, Baghdád, Mekka, Medina, Badiah, and Ommán. -All the Arabic tribes amount to three thousand and sixty; some say -more. The principal, most noble and eloquent of them, is the tribe -Koreish Hashemí of which the Prophet was born, for whose sake God -created time and space, and who is entitled the Lord of Arabs and -Persians. - -But to return after this digression to the origin of the Abáza; it is -related by authentic histories that in the year 25 of the Hejíra, in -the Calífat of Omár, there was an Arab called Basha Melek who then -ruled Yathreb, Batha, Aden and Saba, and had five sons; the first was -called Jebel-ul-himmet; the second Arab; the third Kisú who had three -sons named Kais, Meválí, and Taí; the fourth Lazkí; and the fifth -Abází. After the father’s death, the principality of the tribe devolved -on the eldest son Jebel-ul-himmet, who, having by accident, knocked -out the eye of an Arab was sentenced by Omar to lose one of his own. -Jebel-ul-himmet on the same night took with him his four brethren, -and sought refuge at Antiochia, with the Emperor Heraclius, who gave -him the mountains of Syrian Tripolis. He there built the town of -Jebellieh which still bears that name. Having undertaken some predatory -excursions from thence towards Damascus and Medina, Kháled Ben Welíd -and Eswed Ben Mokdád overpowering him with their forces, obliged him to -fly. He embarked and went to Albania, where he took up his residence -in the mountains of Avlonia, the inhabitants of which are now called -the Koreishite Albanians: their songs have Arabic tunes, and they -derive their origin from Jebel-ul-himmet, who is buried near Ilbessán. -His descendants became apostates, and dwell in the mountains of Dúkat -(Ducato) between Avlonia and Delonia. They are of a tawny colour like -the Arabs, and hairy. So far of Jebel-ul-himmet. His brother Arab, -and his three nephews Kais, Taí, and Meválí were carried by Kháled -Ben Welid prisoners to Hedjáz, where Kais and Taí became masters of -the tribes that bear their names. Arab their uncle became master of -Ommán, their father Kisú and his two brethren Lazkí and Abází fled -from Kháled Ben Welid, first came to Konia and then to Constantinople, -where having heard, that Moavia the son of Ebí Sofián was approaching -Constantinople, he sought shelter at Trebisonde. Here the banks of -the river Júrúgh within the castle of Konia was assigned to the -Lazkis (Lezgís) who are also of Arabic descent. To the brother Kisú -was assigned the Circassian mountains, who, therefore, as well as the -Lezgís boast of being Koreishites. Abazí got the country which actually -bears his name, and thus the Circassians, Lezgís, Abáza, Albanians, the -Arabic tribes of Taí, and Kais are all branches of the Koreish family. -So God populated the earth, God does what he likes, and commands what -he pleases! The principal tribe in Abáza are the Chách, who speak -Mingrelian, which is spoken on the opposite shore of the Phasus; they -are warlike men, in number about ten thousand, who follow more than one -religion, and are an unruly set of people. Their mountains are very -fruitful, particularly in nuts, hazel-nuts, and apricots; they bear the -same arms as the Arabs, arrows, bows and lances, have few horsemen, -but valorous footmen. Their harbour Lákia lies two journies to the -west, three hundred miles from Trebisonde, but, on account of the -heavy southerly and easterly gales, no ship can pass the winter there. -Further to the west on the seashore is the village Khafál the frontier -of the tribe Arlán, consisting of ten thousand warlike men; their -harbour is called Láchigha; we remained here a night; it is a pleasant -harbour both in winter and summer. We travelled two journies further to -the west to the frontier of the tribe Chánda, fifteen hundred valiant -men, true Abázas, they are called the mountain Chándas, and their -harbour Kakúr. The village Kháke, near it, surrounded with gardens, -faces the sea. Three journies beyond, by the seashore, are the great -Chándas, twenty-five villages, fifteen thousand men; their harbour -is called Chándalar, but it gives no shelter in winter. Behind these -mountains is the land of the Mamshúkh Circassians. From the Chándas we -marched a day’s journey towards the west, by the seacoast, and came to -the tribe Kechilar; their country is like a paradise; it consists of -seventy-five villages which furnish two thousand marksmen; its waters -are pleasant. The great river Pessú flows from the Caucasus, and goes -into the Black Sea; it is a fresh stream, which affords no ferry in -summer, but is a safe shelter for ships in winter. Both shores are laid -out in gardens by the people of Kechilar, who may bring ten thousand -men into the field, the greater part horsemen. They are a very rich and -rapacious people. We remained guests in the village Háka in the house -of an Abáza, called Zeperaha, the janissaries our companions made an -entertainment of ten sheep, on which we feasted, and then proceeded two -journies westward to the tribe of Árt, who are more numerous than the -Kechilar, but they are neither so brave nor so rapacious, most of them -are merchants trading in fur. They feed a great number of swine. They -know neither religious book nor sect, but keep their word; their number -amounts to thirty thousand. Their Beg accompanied by from forty to -fifty armed Abáza brought us twenty sheep and three roes, as a present -to welcome us; he wore a coat called Kilchaklí-gebe-chekmání, carried -a bow and arrows in his hand, and wore a sword; he was a stout young -fellow. All his servants wore long hair like himself. The landing-place -of this tribe is called Ártlar; we passed a night there as guests; -it is an open place, ships therefore cannot lie there in the winter. -Another landing-place is called Liúsh, where ships lie for six months. - -To the north, in the midst of mountains, is Sadsha, the land belonging -to Sídí Ahmed Páshá; the inhabitants speak well the language of both -the Abáza and the Circassians; to the latter their country adjoins, -they are seven thousand brave stout men. The Abáza and Circassians -are continually on their guard, but keep up good intelligence by -trading together to the landing-place at Árt with slaves and wax. The -Circassians (Takakú) also come in ships, and trade in safety. We went -three stations further to the west, along the sea-coast, through a -woody tract, with high mountains, between which are many cultivated -villages, to the tribe of Kámish, ten thousand brave men; they defeated -the tribe of A’rt many times, and took their Begs prisoners, because -these Abázas steal each other’s children, and a man who does not steal -and plunder is thought to be bad company, so that they give him not -their daughters in marriage. In these mountains of Kámish swine are -fed to the size of asses; the landing-place is not much frequented on -account of the riotous character of the people. Among these people -of Kámish the children of the Abáza are sent from Constantinople and -Cairo; they have a Mesjíd, the air is pleasant, the villages all face -the Kiblah and the south. The market is held at the landing-place. -Three stations further to the west we came to the tribe of Sújalar, ten -thousand brave men; the ground being very rocky there are few houses. -There is a landing place, but I do not know its name. We remained as -guests one night in the village of Hádeka. As there happened to be a -wedding, they feasted us with a great many dishes, fine girls and boys -waited on us, and the next day the Aghá of Konia, our companion, gave -to the master of the house a turban, which was valued as much as though -it had been a crown, because having neither market, nor khán, nor bath, -nor church, they know nothing of cultivated manners. Their villages of -from forty to fifty houses are situated in the mountains. Ships of all -countries bring powder, lead, muskets, arrows, bows, swords, shields, -lances and other weapons, old shoes, borders of cloth, linen, bogassin, -kettles, hooks, salt, soap and similar articles, and take in exchange, -without using money, slaves, butter, wax and honey. From the Súchas we -went further on two stations to the west, along the seashore, to the -tribe of Dembe, who furnish two thousand armed men. We remained three -days at their landing-place and exchanged our old cloth for slave girls -and boys. I myself bought an Abáza boy. The fourth day we marched two -journies to the west to the tribe of Bozdúk, the Beg of which commands -seven thousand men. We found at their landing-place ten ships from -Constantinople and many of our friends, the meeting with whom was a -great treat to us. Mengelí-geraí Khán led three thousand men of the -Bozdúk to the war of Astrachan, which being ended he gave them a Yúrd -(Camp) in the Circassian mountains of Obúr where they remained. They -are a brave people speaking the Abáza and Circassian language. The -Bozdúk of Abáza and Circassia are separated by Mount Obúr; the distance -between them is three stations. They mutually steal each others -children and sell them. Two journies further along the seacoast is the -old ruined castle of Osowísh, where we passed a night as guests. The -inhabitants make bows and arrows; the Beg has three thousand men in his -service, who carry muskets; the landing-place of the castle is called -Gírmen Sowísh. Bears, swine, foxes, jackals, and woodcocks are found in -great numbers in the mountains. These Abáza people have a strange mode -of burying their Begs; they put the body into a wooden coffin, which -they nail on to the branches of some high tree and make a hole in the -coffin near the head, that the Beg, as they say, may look up to Heaven: -bees enter the coffin and make honey, entirely wrapping the body up -in it; when the season comes they open the coffin, take the honey and -sell it, much caution, therefore, is required to be used in purchasing -the honey of the Abázas. We here bought some more slave boys, and went -two journies towards the west to the tribe of Ashagalí, whose Begs can -bring two thousand brave men into the field, but they are all thieves, -and dreaded by the Abázas themselves. There is also a ruined castle -here, the landing-place of which is called Ashagalí, much frequented -by the ships of Kaffa and Tamán, but they cannot remain here in the -winter. One journey further to the west, is the village of A’atima -belonging to the Ashaghlís; there are amongst them many Mussulmáns of -the Abáza of Top-khánah. From hence Circassia is distant but a day’s -journey. Two journies further is the tribe of Súksú, their Begs command -three thousand armed men; they have horses of high breeding. The -landing-place is Hárdena. The river called Súk has no ferry, it issues -from the mountains of Circassia and flows into the Black Sea; there -are some wealthy persons amongst them. Two journies further on is the -tribe of Kútassí, whose Begs command seven thousand armed men. They -have magazines covered with mats. In the port a great number of ships -from Kaffa and Tamán are found. We met some acquaintances here from the -Crimea, the horsemen of which country are in continual intercourse with -Circassia. On account of the facility of communication the people are -wealthy; they also sow corn, the rest of the Abáza sow millet, which -multiplies a hundred fold. The houses of the Kútassí are covered with -reed; a cluster of ten houses is called a Kabák, the four sides are -circumvallated like a castle, and their dogs watch like lions around -it, they are obliged to do so, as all their dwellings are in the woods, -and each village is afraid of the other. The Kútassí are bounded by -the Shána Circassians; they are only separated by a mountain, which is -a day’s journey across; they speak the Circassian language. Thus the -country of the Abázas extends from the Phasus along the seacoast forty -days journey in length, and in breadth from five days journey down to -one, as is the case in the distance between the Kútassí Abáza and the -Shána Circassians. These forty days journey are marked by forty large -rivers, which issue from the mountains situated between the Abáza -and Circassians, and run into the Black Sea. Altogether seventy high -mountains, with two thousand villages, of which I know nothing, as -I did not visit them. Within this country are some hundred thousand -men, without law or religion, who, however, if you call them infidels -will kill you, and if you call them Moslims are delighted, but if they -become real Moslims, they are very good ones. They are a wild roving -people descending from the Arabs, Koreishites, from Abáza. - -The tribes of Abáza in the mountains are the Posúkhí, seven thousand -turbulent men; Akhchissí, ten thousand men; Besleb, seven thousand -five hundred brave people; Mukellebeh, thirty thousand men; Waipígha, -one thousand men; Jághras, eight hundred weak men; Ala Koreish, five -hundred men; Chíchakores, three thousand men; Mácha, two thousand men; -and Páncháresh, four thousand men; these ten turbulent tribes never -mix with the Abázas of the coast. The bravest and best of them are -the Sadasha. On the coast and in the mountains there are altogether -twenty-five tribes. - - -_Specimen of the Abáza Language._ - -One, _if_; two, _weba_; three, _ikhba_; four, _beshna_; five, _khoba_; -six, _fiba_; seven, _bezba_; eight, _aba_; nine, _sheba_; ten, _zoba_; -eleven, _akzoba_; twelve, _webazoba_. Come, _wai_; go, _úchi_; seat, -_otúi_; get up, _okil_; don’t go, _omchin_; boy, _arísh_; I go, -_sicháb_; wife, _abharesh_; I don’t go, _sikiján_; why, _úzú_. - - -_Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza._ - -One, _weh_; two, _toka_; three, _sitte_; four, _pali_; five, _ashú_; -six, _korn_; seven, _ipli_; eight, _ogha_; nine, _ipfi_; ten, _zú_; -eleven, _wehzú_; twelve, _tokazú_. Bread, _sakha_; meat, _gha_; water, -_beri_; cheese, _feh_; curd, _chehwáh_; pear, _kha_; raisin, _mosú_; -figs, _lakhmak_; chesnuts, _akshú_; salt, _laka_; seat, _otúz_; get up, -_odeto_; don’t go, _omke_; I go, _síkú_; where do you go, _síoken_; I -am busy, I go, _súwú_ _shakagh síkú_; bring a girl, _zinje doko_; I -found no girl, but a boy, _zinje dokalmet zeni okhad_, &c. - -There are many other languages and dialects besides, but I have quoted -only some words which I acquired in the course of trading; I have -written them as I could, but there is a great difference between the -speaking and writing, the pronunciation being extremely difficult, -like the chirping of birds. A great deal of judgment and sagacity is -required to converse with them, but a traveller who knows something -of the world, and of God, and desires to travel quietly, must have a -sufficient idea of every language to understand whether good or evil -is intended to him, whether they are going to offer him bread or a box -of the ear; the proverb says, “Men speak according to their intellect, -and, therefore, it is very prudent to learn some languages for the -use of the world;” such a man easily makes his way through strange -countries, and returns safely into port. - -We left the harbour of the Kútassí, and at the end of two days journey -along the seacoast, reached the castle of Anapa. It is said that -Alexander the Great, when commanded by God to build the wall of Gog -and Magog, arrived at this place, he was so much pleased with its air -and situation, that he built here a pentagon castle of immense stones -(Shedádí, Cyclopean); the room of the diván was paved with rubies, -emeralds, turquoises and cornelians, and for that reason was called -the Castle Kevherpaí Anapaí. It afterwards fell into the hands of the -Genoese, and when Timúr laid waste the towns of Dadián, Heshdek, and -other towns amounting altogether to the number of seven hundred, in -his expedition against Tokhatmish the Lord of Crimea, he also wasted -the suburbs of the castle of Anapa, but the castle itself was spared. -In the reign of Sultán Bayazíd II., the great Vezír Gedek Ahmed Páshá, -leading the expedition against Kaffa, took this castle also from the -Genoese, and put troops into it. It is situated at the extremity of -the Cape which divides the territory of the Abáza from Circassia, on -a clay cliff; it is a strong castle without a garrison, and has been -several times ransacked by the Cossacks of the Tanais. Outside of the -castle are one hundred and fifty houses built of reed; this village is -called Kabák. North of the castle are the mountains of Anapa. The ships -which go to Assov sail past these mountains, which extend as far as the -Cossacks of Assov. The castle of Anapa is well built, and in such good -preservation, that it appears as if it had just come out of the hands -of the builder. Sheep and goats are kept inside during the winter. -According to the description of Demir-oghlí Osmán Páshá, Anapa is the -seat of a Voivode of the sanjak of Tamán in the province of Caffa. The -people of Shefákí, which is the name of the inhabitants, only pay their -tithes at the point of the halberd, and are three hundred rebellious -subjects. This castle has a large port where a thousand ships tied -together with one rope may ride in safety. It is a large harbour, -sheltered against the wind from all quarters. There is no port like it -in the Black Sea; a kind of pearl was formerly fished for here; the -shells still lie on the shore; another reason why the castle is called -Kevhergán (jewel-mine). The Russians anchor here every year, without -the least apprehension, and fish for pearls. If this castle was put -into good condition, with a sufficient garrison and ammunition, it -would be easy to keep all Abáza and Circassia in complete obedience. -The Noghais also bring merchandise to this port in complete security. - -While I, poor Evliyá, was remaining at Anapa with the Yenicherí-agassí -of Konia, the Imperial fleet made its appearance in the Black Sea, -and came to anchor at noon in the port of Anapa. They stayed three -days, during which time all the small craft which had been left behind -arrived, and took in water. I and the Aghá of Konia waited on the -Kaima-kám of the Aghá of the Janissaries with some presents. I then -waited on the Lord High Admiral Delí Hossein Páshá, who assigned me a -tent and rations, made me his Múezzin and gave me a passage on board -the galley of his Kiaya Welí. On the following day the 12th Sha’bán, -1053, the Imperial flag was hoisted, and at noon, the gun for departure -being fired, we left Anapa and made sail for Assov. - -Sultán Murad IV. had planned a great expedition against the Maltese, -who alone remained to be subdued after the conquest of Baghdád, when -he was removed by death; amongst the fleet fitted out for the purpose -there were two immense large ships, called Kara Maona, of three hundred -guns. After his death the Infidels everywhere raised their heads -against the Ottoman Empire, and the Khán of the Crimea reported to Kara -Mustafa Páshá, the great Vezír of Sultán Ibrahím, that the Russians -had overran and plundered the districts of Crimea and Assov. At last -one hundred thousand Cossacks took the fortress of Assov after a siege -of forty days. Eighty thousand Cossacks remained in possession of it, -and one hundred and fifty boats, manned by the rest, infested all the -shores of the Black sea. This news having spread to Constantinople, -Imperial rescripts were sent throughout the whole of Rúmelí. Kojá -Gurjí Canaan Páshá, the governor of Ozakov, and the Governor of Rúmelí -with twenty-eight sanjak Begs, forty thousand Tátárs of Búják, and -forty thousand infidels of Moldavia and Valachia, and twenty thousand -Transylvanians, surrounded the fortress of Assov on the land side. On -the seaside came the Imperial fleet of one hundred and fifty galleys, -as many frigates, two hundred shaikas and karamursal, altogether four -hundred ships having forty thousand men on board, which had weighed -anchor in the port of Anapa, passed the mouth of the river Kúbán, and -the castle of Tamán; on our left hand was the Crimea with the point -of Kilissejík, and opposite on the right, the point Chúcka on the -peninsula of Tamán. These two points are but a mile distant, and the -inside of this strait is called the sea of Assov. We entered it with -a favourable wind, and came to an anchor in the port of Bálisíra. -Here all the ammunition and provisions were embarked in small boats, -called sandal, sacoleva, sarbúna, and túnbáza; and carried thirty miles -further on to the castle of Assov, because galleys and chaiks drawing -five feet water cannot be used here, as the water is but from two -to three feet in depth. Bálisíra is on the western extremity of the -steppes (Heihát Sahrassí) a lonely place; but the army and fleet having -arrived, many thousand houses for men and wares were built, and it had -the air of a large town, being the harbour of Assov. There arrived here -from Circassia, which belongs to the Governorship of Caffa, of the -tribes of Shagák, Shána, Meshúkh, Takafer, Bozúdúk, Pultakaí, Khatukaí, -Kabartaí, and of the troops of Shám-khál Sultán the Lord of Taghistán -forty thousand men, excellent troops, with seven thousand waggons, -which served to transport a part of the munitions and provisions to -Assov. The troops entered the trenches on the 21st of Sha’abán, and -the 25th of the same month arrived from Anatolí seven Vezírs, eighteen -Begler-Begs, seventy Sanjaks, and two hundred Alaï Begs with all the -Zaims and Timariots, who with their men (Jebellí) were forty-seven -thousand men. The Tátár Khán was ordered to keep the look-out, and -he surrounded the camp with his army of Noghaí, Kechin-noghaí, -Shedák-noghaí, Urúmpit-noghaí, Shirínlí, Manssúrlí, Sebhúnlí, Mankitlí, -Nakshi-vánlí, Chekeshke, Irbátlí, Úlí, Olánlí, Badrákli, Arslán Beg -Ilí, Chobán Ilí, Deví Ilí, Nevrúz Ilí, all Tátárs. - -On the same night the Infidels in the fortress, made an immense -noise by shouts and fireworks, which was caused by the arrival of -ten thousand Cossacks, who came by the Tanais to the assistance -of the castle, and did not cease firing all night, so that seven -hundred men were killed. The next day the Tátár Khán and the Páshá of -Silistra placed watches on the shore of the Tanais to prevent further -reinforcement of the Infidels, foraging parties were sent out, the -trenches opened in seven places, and on the side of the monument of -Yogúrdí-Baba pushed to the edge of the ditch. The camp of the Moslims -was out of reach of the cannon-shot from the castle. Next day Hossein -Páshá, prepared twelve large cannon for the attack in the trench of -Yogúrdí-Baba; and at the same time the Admiral Seyawúsh Páshá landed -troops from a hundred boats, who entered the trenches from the side of -the water tower. These boats (firkata), guarded the side of Úlúton, -Deriton, Kánlijah, Uzegí and the island of Timúr. Above the water tower -the troops of Anatoli with eight large guns, and ten regiments of -janissaries entered the trenches; at those on the south was posted the -troops of Karamania with six regiments; on the western suburb of Tayák, -the governor of Silistra Canán Páshá led ten regiments of janissaries, -one of armourers, and one of artillerymen, with ten large guns in the -trenches. In short the castle was battered on seven sides by seventy -large and small cannon, and the Infidels firing on their side, a -terrible contest ensued during seven hours till daybreak, with an -incredible noise and roaring. In the morning seven hundred martyrs were -found, whose goods were consigned to the revenue. The fire was renewed, -and the houses of the town dashed to pieces, but the walls having been -strongly built by the Genoese, continued to resist. This lasted seven -days, during which the Commander-in-chief continually made the round of -the trenches, encouraging the Moslim warriors with words and presents, -and carrying every thing on with deliberation. Several breaches being -opened some volunteers ascended one of them, without order, and planted -the Ottoman banner on the wall, which being seen by the Cossacks, they -rushed on in superior numbers, and crushed many of them by throwing -down a leaden basket. The rest, however, defended their post so well -on the walls, that in the end the Ottoman banner was planted on seven -places, and the Mohammedan prayer proclaimed. The Infidels getting -new strength and rushing on like a herd of swine, with the cry “Ne -bose,” drove back the Moslim victors, so that many standards and bodies -remained on the breaches, and the victors solaced themselves with -the idea that the conquest was predestined for another day. For ten -days more the Infidels were kept in continual anxiety. Four thousand -Cossacks who came to the assistance of the fortress in forty boats -(firkata) were attacked by Canán Páshá, who brought his guns to bear -upon them so completely, that more than a thousand men perished, and -the Moslíms made an immense booty, which was some comfort for the -hardships they had to struggle with. They rejoiced in the idea that the -general assault was near, because of all the towers of the town there -now remained but one, all the rest having been levelled with the dust -by the seventy pieces of artillery. But the Infidels now intrenched -themselves underground like so many Ferháds, and again fortified -themselves in such a manner, that whenever an attempt was made to -overwhelm them by a mine, they averted it, and threw the earth dug up -for an intrenchment into the river. They were most able miners also, -and continued to make mines even underneath the river, with resined -boats. Thus they stopped the Ottoman army for the space of forty days, -during which, notwithstanding great vigilance, many thousand Infidel -Cossacks found means to enter the Castle by throwing themselves naked -into the Tanais, and swimming across under water with a reed in their -mouths; their arms and ammunition were put into leathern jacks, which -they threw behind them while swimming, and thus relieved the fortress. -To prevent this the Moslims shut the Tanais with a wall of stakes -impenetrable even to fish, and by this means got great riches from the -Infidels, who now having lost all hope of succour continued the war -underground, killing a great number of the besiegers. A rumour began -to spread that the Czar of Russia was coming with twenty thousand men, -and this rumour, though it was only an invention of the enemy, caused a -great deal of disturbance. A great council of war of all the commanders -and officers was assembled to take into consideration, that though -there was now no walls left, yet it had hitherto been found impossible -to take the Castle; that a sedition of the janissaries, who are not -obliged to continue above forty days in the trenches, was to be feared; -that the winter was drawing near, when the Sea of Assov freezes, when -all communication would be intercepted, and no safety for the fleet -after the day of Kássim (S. Demetrius); that there would be no shelter -nor provisions for the army, the country of the Infidels being on the -north, and the salt steppes of Heihát on the east and south. After a -long consultation, in which all these topics were touched upon, Canán -Páshá and Piále Aghá, the Kiaya of the Arsenal, proposed to fix the -general assault for the next morning. The Fátíhah being read on this -resolution, great joy was spread in the Ottoman camp; seven thousand -swords, two thousand shields, two thousand muskets, five thousand bows, -forty thousand arrows, six thousand halberds, five thousand granades, -and many thousand other articles of arms were distributed amongst the -army, the cannons fired from seven sides and the shout of Allah raised -so that it filled the steppes of Kipchák. The Moslims rushed into the -castle and penetrated into the inmost recess of it, where they hoisted -the banner and proclaimed the prayer of Islám. - -The guns were now silenced, and the swords alone were clashing. During -seven hours and a half the Mussulmáns were raging in the castle like -wolves amongst sheep, and stained with blood like butchers. It was -a complete victory to which none can be compared excepting those of -Kossova and Mohacs. The rest of the Infidels hidden beneath the ground, -now set fire to the mines, and sent by that means great numbers of the -Moslim besiegers to Heaven; others shot them from the loopholes so that -they were in great distress. It being now near sunset, and the victors -being exhausted by fatigue and hunger, were called on to retire by the -Chaúshes, who admonished them to leave the end to the next day. They -carried an immense deal of booty with them, arms of all kinds and three -thousand heads of Infidels, besides one thousand and sixty prisoners. -A general salute was fired, and the martyrs buried, after the funeral -prayer was said over them. The wounded and maimed received pensions, -and were given into the hands of the surgeons. Those who brought -heads received a reward of a hundred piastres, and those who had made -prisoners were allowed to keep them. Chelenks, ziámets, timárs, and all -kind of military rewards were distributed, and the property of seven -hundred janissaries who were killed was made over to the revenue. Of -the troops on the seven sides of the attack one thousand two hundred -men became martyrs and ascended to Heaven. On this night the Infidels -made incredible efforts to repair the works of the castle, by raising -walls and digging ditches, opening loopholes and pointing guns. The -foundations of the castle resembled the wall of Gog and Magog, to the -great consternation of the Moslims, who solaced themselves, saying: -“Man proposes and God disposes,” recommending their business to God. -They continued the war, but not with the same unanimity, though not -with less zeal than before. A great council of war was held, under -the consideration that there now remained only forty days to Kássim -(S. Demetrius). The result of the council was, that Geraï-Khán, with -seventy thousand regular troops, and eight hundred thousand horse, -was ordered to ravage the provinces of Russia. So they did, and this -Tátár army returned on the 14th day to the Ottoman camp at Assov, with -forty-five thousand prisoners and two hundred thousand horses as booty, -besides a great number of valuable things, pelisses, rich cloth, &c. By -this arrival, the hearts of the Moslims were comforted, and those of -the Infidels afflicted, when they saw the triumphal procession with the -prisoners fettered, and the crosses upset. Since the time of Jenguíz -Khan the Tátárs had not made a richer booty. This sight raised a howl -among the Infidels in the castle, who pierced the skies with their -lamentations. The same night seventy Infidels, hungry and sad, left the -castle, and were brought into the presence of the Commander-in-Chief, -Hossein Páshá. Some of them embraced the Islám, and received presents, -then were sent altogether to the castle of Khoros Kermán near Assov. - -By this immense booty every thing became immensely cheap in the Ottoman -camp, so that a horse was sold for one piastre, a girl for five, and a -boy for six piastres. The safe return of the Tátár army was celebrated -by a triple salute of muskets and guns, and the whole camp illuminated -during the night. But winter drawing near, a new council was held, all -the seniors of the regular troops and of the Tátárs agreed, and signed -unanimously a petition of three hundred signatures of Vezírs, and -officers of all ranks, saying: “that for this year it was impossible to -take the castle, that one of the Russian Capitals had been laid waste, -that seventy thousand Infidels had been taken prisoners, and more than -one hundred thousand destroyed by the sword.” At the same time two of -the prisoners, who had been instructed accordingly, were sent back into -the castle to say; “that if the Turks had intended to take the castle, -they might have taken it in a month, but their object was to pillage -the Russian countries, and to return with a rich booty, which they -had now accomplished.” The same night as the messengers went off to -Constantinople there was such a hard frost that all the Moslim warriors -thought they could not stand it, and by this specimen found out that -the salt steppe of Heihát was as unmerciful as the Black Sea. At last -the despair of conquering the castle becoming general, the whole army -at once resolved to raise the siege. The trumpets were sounded, the -artillery and ammunition embarked and carried to Bálisíra, where the -fleet was lying at anchor. The army returned by different ways, some by -sea and some by land, to Constantinople; some by the desert of Kipchák -in six days and nights to the river Kúbán, to Circassia, Taman and -Crimea; some through the steppes (Heihát), returned by the north into -their native country Circassia. When the Imperial fleet weighed for -Constantinople I got permission, from the Commander-in-Chief Hossein -Páshá, to accompany the Khán of Crimea into his country, and the -Imperial fleet sailed, trusting in God, through the sea of Assov. - - - - -JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA. - - -I left Assov in company with the army of Geraï Khán of eighty thousand -men, and twenty thousand Infidels of Moldavia and Valachia, and -crossed the Tanais with them, which disembogues at the end of the sea -of Assov. The water being shallow in the great Don, it was passed by -eight hundred thousand horsemen without the least difficulty, the water -reaching only to the stirrups. The Tátárs tied their jacks and luggage -to the tails of their horses, and in the space of twenty-one hours, the -whole army reached the opposite steppes of Heihát. - -At the station of Búrebaí, opposite to the western side of Assov, -a branch of the Don flows in its way to the sea of Assov, where it -disembogues in three different channels; as it runs through reeds for a -great distance, it is not very sweet: the complexion of the inhabitants -on its shores is yellow, and they have a kind of excrescence or crop on -the neck. The whole army halted here, as on a pleasant flowery meadow, -and three hundred horses were slaughtered and eaten up that evening. It -was here that I ate horseflesh for the first time. Though I belonged to -the Tátár Khán, yet I lived with Kiá Beg of the tribe of Mássúrlí, who -have their Yúrds (encampments) in Crimea; the district of Mankis Eli on -the side of Gozlava is their Yúrd. Their horses are extremely fat, and -their flesh can hardly be distinguished from roes’ flesh, and is easy -to digest. Next morning the kettle-drums beat, and after a march of -nine hours we arrived at the river Sud, which the whole army crossed, -and halted on the other side, but the ground being extremely marshy, -one hundred horses and fifty slaves were lost in the marshes. This -river issues from the western mountains of Russia and here enters the -sea of Assov. The name Sud or milk-river is derived from its whitish -colour, which it contracts from the different metallic strata over -which it passes in its course. It is not good for drinking, and causes -crops or swellings on the necks of those who drink of it. There are -seventy cultivated towns and villages on both sides of this river, but -they are not very flourishing on account of the depredations of the -Crimea Tátárs. These places all belong to the Russians. - -We left this place and came to the river Mús, a large river which we -passed over with the greatest difficulty at this cold season, the arms -being all put in leather jacks. It is fresh water like that of the -Don, Dnieper, and Danube, and contains excellent fish. It comes from -the northern mountains of Russia. We crossed it, and next day when -the Kettle-drums were beaten for departure, the snow had fallen three -cubits deep. We slept that night on the snow of the field of Kipchák, -and arrived next day at the station of Búrúmbaí; here we slept again on -the snow, and on the following day after sixteen hours ride, reached -the frontier of Crimea. - -The moment we entered the castle of Orághzí, Kara Rejíb Aghá, the -Courier of the great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, with twenty horsemen -arrived from Constantinople, and after having heard the sad story -of the impossibility to take Assov, took letters from the Khán, -and returned to Constantinople. I poor Evlíya entered the town of -Bágcheseraï with the Khán, and was assigned a house there on the -borders of the valley of Chúrúksú (rotten water) where I quietly passed -the winter without travelling one step. But the Khán to prevent the -Infidels sending reinforcements to the castle of Assov, made three -excursions with between forty and fifty thousand horsemen even up to -the guns of Assov, bringing back prisoners. His Vezír (the Kalgha -Sultán) made also three expeditions into the interior of Russia, -and returned with ten thousand slaves and a great deal of booty to -Crimea. In the beginning of spring came Hassan Aghá the Chamberlain -of the Sublime Porte bringing to the Khán twelve thousand ducats as -boot-money, and an Imperial diploma commanding him to be ready to take -the field, with the commencement of the fine season, against Assov. The -Khán received the orders with all signs of submission and duty, the -horses were put to feed in the meadows for forty days, after which the -army broke up again to return to Assov, the garrison of which, weighing -all the hardships of siege, their losses, and the impossibility of -holding the fortress finally against the Ottoman power, abandoned it -and fled with their arms and effects to different other Castles. - -The Tátár Khán having arrived on the border of the river Sud, heard -of the flight of the garrison from some prisoners he had taken, and -made the greatest possible haste to reach the fortress. He found it -empty, not only of men, but also of animals, neither dog, cat nor -mouse being seen; only one Genoese tower remained standing. The Tátár -Khán then sent the welcome news to Constantinople. On the eleventh day -some Russian spies coming from Constantinople were taken and brought -before the Tátár Khán. They confessed freely and openly, that there -were forty spies at the Port, who, having been aware of the immense -preparations of the Ottoman Army, had given notice to the garrison to -leave the Castle, and that arriving there themselves, they had fallen -into the hands of the Tátárs. These three spies were beheaded. On -the 13th day of this month the Ottoman army arrived with great pomp, -commanded by Chowán Kapújí-báshí Vezir Mohammed Páshá, and found the -fortress empty. They ascribed it at first to some infernal stratagem of -the Infidels, and waited three days, on the fourth day Moslim prayer -was proclaimed, and all the Moldavians and Valachians were commanded -to work on the foundations and to build them anew. They dug three days -till they came to springs of water; the ships were all busy carrying -stones from an old Convent in the island of Timúrlenk, and the work of -building was begun. In one month two towers were finished, stronger -than the former Genoese towers, and the histories of Crimea record the -date of its building and name of the builder. It was declared the seat -of a Sanjak Beg belonging to the government of Kaffa, a Begler-Beg was -left as commander with twenty regiments of Janissaries, six regiments -of artillerymen, ten regiments of armourers, seven thousand Tátárs, -seven Sanjak Begs, and twelve Alaï Begs, with twenty-six thousand -men; seventy large guns on the bulwarks, and three hundred small ones -on the border of the ditch. The complete repair and fitting out cost -the sum of five thousand purses. During its building the Tátárs made -seven inroads into Russia, and returned with from fifteen to twenty -thousand prisoners to the Ottoman camp, so that the prisoners were -sold for no more than ten piastres each. At last the King of the -Moscovites imploring pardon and crying out, Amán! Amán! (pardon O -Family of Osmán!) sent ambassadors to Constantinople. The building -being nearly finished, the Commander-in-Chief Mahommed Páshá returned -to Constantinople, and the rest of the army got permission to return -to their homes. I again followed the tribe of Mássúrlí, and came with -them to Crimea. We took our pleasure for twenty days in Bágcheseraï, -then got permission from the Khán to return to Constantinople, with -a present of a purse of piastres, three slaves, a sable pelisse, and -a caftán. The Kalgha Sultán and Núr-ud-dín Sultán (the two first -dignities of the Tátár court) and fourteen Aghás, gave me a slave -each, so that I had a number of slaves and four purses of money; to -these slaves I added the eighteen which I had acquired on my travels -from Trebisonde to Mingrelia and Abaza, took leave of the Khán and all -the great men, and mounted on the horses of the Kalgha-Sultán, began -my journey in company with some friends, who remained with me till -we arrived at Káchidere. There we parted, all my friends returned to -Bágcheseraï, and I continued my way to the south for the space of six -hours to Báliklava. - - -_Description of the Castle of Báliklava._ - -Prevented by warlike expeditions from visiting with leisure the -curiosities of Crimea, I dare not give a description of it; such is -also the case with the castle of Báliklava. Having embarked here with -three hundred persons on board of the Shaika of Úchelí Sefer Reis, I -slept on board, troubled by heavy dreams; on the next day I went on -shore, to do away the evil of the night by some alms, and next day -got clear of the port in an evil hour, succeeded, as the text of the -Korán says, by worse days. One day and one night we went straight -before the wind, and were then about the middle of the Black Sea. The -mountains of Báliklava and Súlúyár had disappeared, neither were those -of Sinope and Amassra to be seen, and we were tossed about without well -knowing where we were going to. All at once an easterly gale sprung up -with thundering clouds, at the appearance of which the boatmen changed -colour, and began to wring their hands; they looked at the compass, -and then on each other, and already made up their minds to lose their -souls. An old sailor said to them; “Lads (Dais!) don’t you see the -forerunners of a tempest, what are you afraid of? Lower the topmast -with the sail.” This they did, but the ship going too heavy, they -threw the bags, mats, casks and trunks that were on deck into the sea; -they stowed two hundred young prisoners below (Enbár) and closed the -hatches. Thus the ship was lightened, but still terribly tossed by the -effect of the currents. Verse:— - - “If in the storm my bark drives on the strand, - What shall I do? none can the winds command.” - -On the fourth of Safer of the year 1055, the storm began to buffet us -most unmercifully, nothing but thunder and lightning, hail and torrents -of rain pouring down on us for three days and nights. The sailors -exhausted by fatigue all crept into one corner of the ship. Of the -passengers, some were vomiting, some praying, some vowing victims and -sacrifices, some alms and pilgrimages. I, poor Evliyá, said: “Come, -Servants of God, come and pray with me the Súra Ikhláss (deliverance) -which God may be pleased to grant to us.” All having began to recite -this Súra fervently, the weather cleared up, the storm ceased, but -the tossing of the ship continued in a most dreadful manner; the ship -now touched the highest heavens, and now descended into the deepest -of hells. The waves of the Black Sea towered before us like the -perpendicular walls of Mount Bisútún. At last we opened the magazine -(Enbár) and threw all the heavy merchandize into the sea, but again to -no purpose. We saw that the rudder was going to break, and to prevent -this all the sailors united and began to cut with hatchets, first the -stays, then the mast, which in falling into the sea killed eleven men. -Until their bodies were thrown overboard, there was such a howling in -the ship, that every body despaired of life, and felt that he must give -up his soul. At this moment there again came a puff of wind (Sighinák) -which threatening to tear the ship asunder drove all the prisoners and -slaves crying and lamenting out of the magazine; some held together, -clasping one another, some stripped naked, and all endeavouring to -lay hold of a plank or a cask. I, poor Evlíyá, feeling myself in a -state of agitation continued to pray the Súra-Yass, and recommended -all my things to God by saying the verse: “I recommend my business to -God,” and that: “Who fears God shall find a place to walk out, and -shall find his lot provided, from whence he did not expect it; and who -trusts in God shall not be abandoned by him.” While repeating these -prayers I saw that some Infidels (prisoners) got hold of the launch, -and let it down by ropes, at the same time some other sailors were -throwing themselves on the other side, with planks, into the sea. I, -and seven of my companions watching the moment of the launch going down -threw ourselves into it; the Infidels instantly cut the ropes, and two -of them, attacked with a knife Ramazán Chelebí of Aintáb. My seven -companions immediately drew their swords against the eight Infidels -who had raised their hands against us, and killed four of them; the -four others throwing themselves into the sea from fright, we remained -masters of the launch. We threw all heavy luggage overboard, and the -launch being now light and tossed by the waves, I saw how the great -ship was cleft asunder from stem to stern, and three hundred and fifty -passengers, merchants, and four hundred slaves were spread over the -sea, some going to the bottom, some trying to be saved by swimming, -some on planks, and some trying to reach our boat, of whom we took in -the story-teller Emír Chelebí. When we laid hold of him, others came up -swimming, and we were soon convinced, that if we took them in we should -all go to the bottom together, we, therefore, sword in hand, kept off -all those who offered to lay hold of the launch. The wreck of the ship -had now disappeared with all the men, and while we continued tossing up -and down, our turbans heavy with the water, we perceived the Judge of -Menkúb, Alí Efendí, swimming like an angel of the Ocean. By the hand of -Divine power he was brought near our boat, and we took him in, so that -there were now ten of us in it. We continued to pray the Súra-Yass, -and drove on, baling out the water, and all despairing of life. Thus -we drove a day and night, all shivering with cold, naked and starved, -crying and lamenting. The story-teller and the judge were attacked by a -fit of apoplexy, we threw their corpses into the sea, and were reduced -as before to eight persons; but we had the misfortune to have a large -piece of timber twenty cubits length and one yard in breadth, which -drove along with the boat, touching it from time to time without our -being able to prevent it. - -On the third day at noon a wave came which upset the boat, and I -fell head-foremost into the sea; being a good swimmer I worked with -all my strength, recommended myself to the Lord, to the intercession -of the Korán, and all the Saints, all the great and pious men I had -hitherto known on my travels, and by this kind of effort, keeping my -head clear, I swam undaunted. I saw that the large piece of timber, -which had before swam alongside our boat, was passing near to me, and -instantly laid hold of it, encircling it like a serpent. Driving in -this way, shivering and starved, all at once I heard a noise behind -me, and looking round I saw two Georgian boys, two Circassian girls -and a Russian slave, who had all laid hold of the long piece of timber -on which I was driving. I was much afraid that their weight would sink -the timber, and was just thinking how to get rid of my companions in -misfortune, when an empty cask driving by, the Russian slave wished to -get hold of it, and threw himself into the sea for that purpose, but -not being able to reach it he was drowned, and only the four slaves -remained. The storm was now completely clearing-up, the sea going down, -and the next day land coming in sight, we were thrown on the shore -exhausted and half-dead. I threw myself on the ground, to praise God -and to thank his infinite mercy, who having taken away from me eighteen -slaves acquired in my travels in Mingrelia and Abaza, again made me -a present of four slaves, two fine boys and two pretty girls. Being -thrown into an inlet of the rocks, some good people gave us dresses -to cover our nakedness, and hoisted us up the rocks which appeared to -pierce the skies. Having asked where I was, I was told that these were -the mountains of Kilghra in the sanjak of Silistra. Thus I had been -driven three days in the boat from the moment the ship went down, and -after the boat was upset, twenty-four hours on the timber, till I was -thrown on the shore at Kilghra, with the Dervishes of which place I -immediately began a devotional conversation, and occupied the cells, -which they assigned to me and my slaves. - - -_Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán._ - -This building is ascribed to Sárí Sáltik Sultán, who having been -ordained a Dervish in the town of Yassú by Ahmed Yassúí, came with -Hájí Begtásh and three hundred poor people to Sultán Orkhán, and was -sent after the conquest of Brússa into Russia and Poland, Bohemia and -Dobrúja. Hají Begtásh gave him a wooden sword, a carpet, a banner, a -drum, kettle-drum and trumpet. Kilghra Sultán with seventy disciples -spread the hide (on which they sat) upon the sea, and went, praying, -drums beating and banners flying, from Rúmelí to Crimea, and from -thence to the people of Heshdek in Moscovy and Lipka in Poland. At -Danzig he conversed with Svíty Nicola the patriarch, whose name is the -same as Sárí Sáltik whom he killed, adopted his habit, and by this -means converted many thousands to Islám. Thus he travelled many years -under the name of Sárí Sáltik, and being himself yellow-coloured (as -Sárí Sáltik was) he obtained from Ahmed Yassúí the name of the yellow -Beg. But his proper name is Mohammed Bokhara, and he settled afterwards -at Paravadí. The King of Dobrúja requested a miracle from Sárí Sáltik -in confirmation of his mission. There was then in Dobrúja a terrible -dragon, to which even the two daughters of the King were allotted as -food. Sárí Sáltik agreed to deliver the two girls, on condition that -they with their father would embrace Islám. He went to the column to -which they were tied as victims for the dragon, accompanied by his -seventy Dervishes, who were beating drums and swinging the banner; -untied the Princesses, and then waited with his wooden sword, expecting -the dragon himself, meanwhile the seventy Dervishes beat the drum. The -dragon coming near, Sárí Sáltik addressed it with the verse of the -Korán beginning;—“Greeting on Noe in both worlds,” and then cut off -three of his heads, so that the dragon fled with the remaining four. -Sárí Sáltik followed him up to his cave, at the entrance of which he -cut off the remainder with his wooden sword, and followed the dragon -into his den. The beheaded dragon began to struggle with the Saint and -to press him against the rock, which gave way so wonderfully as to -receive the Saint’s body, which place with the marks of his hands and -feet are still actually shewn. The dragon having exhausted his strength -fell to the ground dead, and the Saint, with his bloody breast and -bloody wooden sword, now led the two girls to their father the king. -Previous to their arrival a cursed monk, who had shewn to Sáltik Súltán -the road to the column, and picked up there the tongues and ears of the -three heads cut off, had laid them before the king, boasting that he -had killed the dragon. Now, though the daughters asserted the contrary, -yet the monk persisting in his boast, the Saint proposed as a proof, -to be boiled with the monk in a cauldron, and though the monk did not -like this kind of trial, yet by order of the king he was obliged to -undergo it. Sárí Sáltik was tied up by his Dervishes, and the monk by -his companions, and both put into a cauldron heated by an immense fire. -It was at this hour that Hájí Begtásh, who was then at Kírshehrí in -Anatolia swept with a handkerchief a dripping rock, saying: “My Sáltik -Mahomed is now in great anxiety, God assist him!” Ever since that day -salt-water has dropped from that rock, and from thence the salt called -Hájí Begtásh is produced. The place where this cauldron was heated is -shewn at the present day, and the mountain is called the mountain of -the cauldron Kazán Balkání. The cauldron being opened Sárí Sáltik was -found sweating and saying: “Ya Hayí, O all vivifying;” and of the monk -nothing remained but black coals and burnt bones. The King of Dobrúja -moved by this miracle, instantly embraced Islám, with seven thousand -of his subjects; he sent ambassadors to Sultán Orkhán, and received -from him in exchange, the appointment of a Judge, a tail and a banner. -His name was Alí Mokhtár. In the same year Sárí Sáltik made his will, -wherein he commanded seven coffins to be made, because seven kings were -to contend for his body after his death. This happened indeed as he -foretold, because being washed after death and put into the coffin, -seven kings claimed to have the true body, which was found in every -one of the seven coffins when opened. The seven kings who desired to -be possessed of the true body were the King of Muscovia, where Sárí -Sáltik is held in great veneration under the name of Svíty Nicola; the -King of Poland, where his tomb is much frequented at Danzig; the King -of Bohemia, where his coffin is shewn in the town of Pezzúnijah (?) -and in Sweden at Bívánjah (?). The fifth King was of Adrianople, where -his tomb is in the Convent of the town of Batúria which is now a large -place called Baba-eskissí, and is visited by those, who travel from -Constantinople to Adrianople. The sixth King was that of Moldavia, who -buried it in a shady place near the Castle of Bozák, where Báyazíd II. -after the conquest of Akkermán, built a mosque, an imáret, a college, a -bath, a khán and a monument for Sárí Sáltikdedeh; this town is called -Babatághí; a pleasant town all belonging to the endowments of Sárí -Sáltik. The seventh coffin was taken possession of by Alí Mokhtár the -converted King of Dobrúja, who buried it at Kilghra in the cave of the -Dragon, and hence he is called Kilghra Sultán; Kilghra signifies in -Latin a seven-headed dragon, it is the purest Latin. Of these seven -burial-places of this Saint, three are in the Ottoman Empire, from -which he is called Baba Sultán at Babatágh; Sárí Sáltik Sultán at -Baba-Eskissí; and here, Kilghra Sultán; in Christian countries he is -generally called St. Nicolas, is much revered and the Christian monks -ask alms under his auspices. - -The Convent is situated on a cape which extends into the Black Sea like -the proboscis of an Elephant. The ships that sail from Constantinople -to Kara Khirmen, Kostenjí, and Kilí pass along these rocks of Kilghra -directly opposite to those of Sinope, and if the weather is clear, are -mutually seen from both shores. The cave in which Sárí Sáltik killed -the dragon is at the same time his burial place. The convent was built -by Alí Mokhtár; the wooden sword of the Saint, his swing, half-drum, -kettle-drum, drum, banner and sanjak are kept here, numerous cells -surround it, occupied by learned and virtuous Dervishes, who reside -here on their hides, all true Sunnis and faithful believers, more than -one hundred. They read with me more than eight months according to the -method of Hafss. The windows of the Convent, and of the monument, all -look towards the sea. The magnificent kitchen like that of Keikavús -is worth seeing; day and night the fire is kept up on the stove for -passengers and strangers, they have no endowments but live on alms; -they are all purified by mystic divine love. To the right and left of -the mountain are many wells in the rocks. The rocks being perpendicular -like those of Mount Bisútún are excavated at the base. The projecting -rocks are so lofty that ships with topmasts an hundred yards high -may enter here, and come to an anchor. The masters of these ships -take in barley and wheat which is brought in waggons to the mouths of -the aforesaid shafts which are cut in the rock, and poured down them -into the holds; these shafts were cut in ancient times by Infidel -stonecutters, who were like so many Ferháds; and it is a peculiar sight -not to be seen elsewhere, and saves a circuit of between three and four -hours in bringing the barley to the foot of the rock. There are no such -high and dreary rocks any where in the Black Sea. During southernly -and easternly gales, the sea produces a roaring in the excavations, -which is heard as far as Iflatár and Ilhánlar near Silistra, a day’s -journey from hence. On the top of these rocks are nests of eagles each -as large as a sheep, they are even killed and eaten by some for mutton. -Near the Convent is the Castle of Kilghra, which was taken by Mússa -Chelebí out of the hands of the Infidels. It belongs to the district -of Bálchik in the government of Ozakov. It is a small but strong -square castle on the seashore, twenty paces in circumference, with a -gate opening to the west, it has neither mosque or khán, commander -or garrison. Being situated on a limestone cliff it has no ditch on -one side; on the east side is a precipice of one hundred fathoms; the -lower part of this castle is also excavated, like the rocks of the -convent. When Nassif Páshá Zadeh Hossein was governor of Ozakov, these -shores were sometimes infested by the Cossacks and Infidel Russians, -who made prisoners of the inhabitants. Hossein Páshá then renewed this -castle at his own expense, and garrisoned it, so that the shores were -protected from inroads; but the Great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, having -taken away the garrison in order to mortify Hossein Páshá, the castle -remained deserted. Praise be to God, that after having escaped the -dangers of the sea, and being delivered from it before, as the bird of -the soul left the cage of the body, I passed eight months here in sweet -conversation, till at the commencement of the spring I took leave of my -friends and returned to Constantinople. - - -_Return to Constantinople._ - -In the spring of 1054, I took leave of Kilghra Sultán and embarking -with my four slaves coasted the shore of the Black Sea, so that at -the least storm I could come to an anchor. Thus I passed on my road, -Kavarna, Bálchik, Varna, Ahiebolí, Sízebolí, Missivra, Búrghás, -Chenkina, the island of mirrors (Aina adassí or Inada) and the strong -castle of Torkoz. Near this place is the flowery meadow, and pleasant -place of Skúmrí-jair where the janissaries and kúrújis are encamped, -and from hence watch over the security of the adjacent villages, -because some years ago these shores were infested by Cossacks. From -hence we came to the black stones (Cyanies), a rocky ground outside of -the mouth of the Bosphorus. It was changed into stone by a woman’s -distaff, and is a curious sight. We passed it, and in God’s name -entered the channel of Constantinople, anchoring before the Castle -of Kavák. I went on shore, and thanked God for the happy escape from -the dangers of the Black Sea. The length of the Black Sea from the -Bosphorus to Trebisonde at the mouth of the Phasus is fifteen hundred -miles, the shores of the Abáza are seventeen hundred miles, and to -the corner of the sea of Assov two thousand miles; seventeen hundred -large and small streams fall into it. The largest is the Danube, which -receives seven hundred rivers in its course, and disembogues into the -Black Sea by five branches, at Kili, Túlja, Súlina, and Kara-khirmen; -the Phasus, and Chúrúgh on the Asiatic side. The Kúbán near the -castle of Tamán, the river of Assov, the river of Ozakov, and the -Dniester; on the Asiatic shore the Kizil Irmák, the Wesnesday river, -and the Sakaria. From Constantinople to Caffa is reckoned one thousand -miles, to Báliklava eleven hundred, to A’kkermán fifteen hundred, to -Varna five hundred; from the point of Kilghra to that of Sinope five -hundred, from the mouth of the Bosphorus to Amassra one thousand, and -to Heraclea one hundred. The whole circuit of the Black Sea, with that -of Assov, is six thousand and sixty miles, and if made by land is one -hundred and fifty days or five months journey, each day’s journey to -be reckoned twelve hours. As soon as I arrived at Constantinople I -hastened to Eyyúb to read once more the Korán there, having performed -which I went to my parents, who received me with the greatest kindness. -I swore never to try the navigation of the Black Sea any more. May God -guard from its misfortunes all the faithful people of Mohammed. I then -became the Imám of the Inspector of the mouth, and soon found by the -presents from my friends, compensation for the loss I sustained in the -Black Sea, of my eighteen slaves and other things. - - - - -EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE YEAR 1055 (1645). - - -The Kizlar Aghá of Sultán Ibrahím Sunbul Aghá after his dismissal -from the Seraï, embarked for Egypt with fifty fair slave girls, and -as many boys, and forty horses of the best breed, in the Caravel of -Ibrahím Chelebí. He stowed all his riches for three months into the -six magazines of this Caravel, and went on board with five hundred -armed men of his suite, three hundred merchants, two hundred sailors, -and Ezírí Mohammed Efendí who was exiled into Egypt; altogether one -thousand three hundred persons, who sailed on Friday, trusting in -God. Near Rodos they met six Maltese Galleys, with whom they had an -engagement of twenty four hours, during which the horses getting -loose increased the confusion of battle. The Caravel was dismasted and -dismantled, and except two hundred men all the rest fell martyrs. The -owner of the ship upbraiding the Kizlar Aghá, said unto him: “Cursed -Arab did I not tell thee not to put horses into the ship, but rather -to take in stores and ammunition; but thou didst obtain an Imperial -order, hast overloaded the ship, and in that way given up to the -Infidels.” Thus saying, he with his sword severed the Kizlar Aghá’s -head from his body, and was himself at the same moment cut into pieces -by the suite of the Eunuch, who rushed on him with drawn swords. The -Infidels witnessing this fact, boarded the ship, fought for three hours -more on board of it, made the rest of the men including Ezírí Mohammed -Efendí prisoners and took the ship directly into the harbour of Canea, -where they came to an anchor. Here they remained a month selling the -horses and slaves, and violating all the girls. Some prudent monks -and patricians said: “Woe to us, better would it have been not to see -this Ottoman ship in this town, with its horses and girls, because a -prophecy exists, that if this happened, the island would fall into -the hands of the Moslíms.” This rumour being spread was the cause of -many families emigrating from the island, the population of which -then consisted of four hundred thousand Greeks, and seventy six towns -and castles were garrisoned by sixteen thousand Soldiers. This is the -account obtained at that time by my Lord Alí Aghá the inspector of -the custom house. The Emperor being much hurt at the unhappy accident -of the Kizlar Aghá, immediately sent for the Venetian Bailo, accusing -him and his whole mission with a breach of the peace, by allowing the -Maltese to sell Ottoman goods in their harbour. They kissed the earth -and said: “Gracious Emperor, our capitulations stated, that if your -Imperial fleet conduct prizes of Infidel ships into our ports, we are -to receive them as guests. God forbid that we should intend to break -the peace, we were forced by the Maltese Infidels to admit them.” The -Emperor then asked, if they would assist him with men and ships; they -promised readily to furnish three hundred ships, on which they were -invested with robes of honour, and lulled by these means into the -sleep of hares. Three thousand purses were issued from the Imperial -treasury for the preparations for war, and Kapijí-Báshís sent to one -hundred and fifty districts on the side of Jáínak, Sinope, Amassra, -Ergelí, Koja Ilí and Isnikmíd, to buy and get ready timber for three -hundred ships. From the mountains A’alemtágh and Kapútágh (in the -neighbourhood of Constantinople) wood was brought in abundance, so that -all the magazines of the arsenal were full of it. The ship-builders of -all the Islands were called in, and every week a galley was launched. -An Imperial High Admiral’s Ship (Bashtarda, Head tartana,) and ten -Maúnas were built, and the Arsenal swarmed with busy men. Vezírs were -sent into Rúmelí and Anatoli to collect armies, Khassekís and the -standard-bearer of the prophet were dispatched to Algiers, Tunis, and -Tripolis, with twelve thousand ducats of powder-money, and Imperial -rescripts exhorting them to join the Capitan Páshá in the spring. It -was generally reported, that this expedition was planned against Malta, -but the Emperor, the Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and the Muftí were alone -in the secret. The following was the Fetva proposed and given by the -Mufti. - -_Query_:—If the Infidels are possessed of a land, which was formerly in -the possession of Moslíms, if they have defiled its mosques, colleges -and oratories with their superstitions, if they plunder Mussulman -merchants and pilgrims, can the Emperor of the Islám, moved by his zeal -for the house of God, wrest these countries from the hands of Infidels, -and add them to the Mussulman territory? - -_Answer_:—God knows everything best. Peace with the Infidels is but -legal, if advantageous to all Moslíms, but if not, it is not legal at -all. As soon as it is useful, it is also allowed to break the peace, be -it concluded for a fixed time, or for ever. This is justified by the -example of the Prophet, who having concluded peace with the Infidels, -which was broken by Alí in the 6th year of the Hejíra, took the field -against them in the 8th year, and conquered Mecca. The Emperor has but -imitated the Sunna of the Prophet. God bless his victories. This was -written by the poor despised Abú Sá’id. - -The Emperor took this Fetva and stuck to it like to a cable of safety; -he went the same day to visit the tomb of Eyyúb, was twice girt there -by the Muftí with the sword of Omar, in anticipation of victory, -and then went to the Arsenal, where two hundred galleys were fitted -out and filled with troops. Fifty other galleys were ready at the -landing-place of the Flour-hall; thirty-six regiments of janissaries, -ten of artillerymen, and ten of armourers, were embarked in great -transport ships, Maúna. The governor of Rúmelí with the troops of -twenty-four sanjaks, with all the Tímariots and Zaims forming an army -of twenty-two thousand, and with the Jebellís of twenty-seven thousand -men, was ordered to repair to the Dardanelles; the troops of Morea, -Sirmium, Semendra, Bosna, and Herzogavina, were ordered to embark at -the castle of Benefshe in the island of Morea. The governor of Anatoli -with the army of his fourteen sanjaks, and the men of one hundred and -ninety-nine military fiefs, amounting to five thousand five hundred -and eighty-nine men, with the Jebellís and the household of the Páshá, -altogether twenty thousand men, were also commanded to the Dardanelles -on the Asiatic side. The governors of Damascus, Haleb, Diarbekr, -Mera’ash, Adana, Karamán, Sivás, and Trebisonde, with seventy thousand -men received similar orders. At the same time that the Kapíjí-báshís -and Khassekís, who had been sent to collect those troops, reported -that they were ready at the Dardanelles, the cavalry had been embarked -at Constantinople. At the beginning of spring, the whole fleet was -ready, consisting of two hundred galleys, tartanas, galliots, twelve -large Maúna, one hundred Firkata, Caravella, galleons, pinks, Bútáj, -Shaitie, Shaika and Karamursal, with a great number of pioneers and -miners on board. Altogether seven hundred ships, were anchored before -the point of the Seraglio. - -At the Sinán Koshk the Úlemas and all the great men waited on the -Emperor; the Vezírs, Begler-begs, Captains, Aghás, and Colonels, going -to war, one thousand seven hundred individuals, were invested with -magnificent dresses. The Commander-in-Chief Yússúf Páshá, the great -Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and the Muftí alone remained with the Emperor, -the rest having already gone on board. Sultán Ibrahím took the Vezír -and Commander-in-Chief each by the hand, went with them into a corner, -and said: “Yússúf, where art thou going to.” Yússúf Páshá answered, -“To Malta if it please God,” and Ibrahim replied, “If it please God, -by the destination of the all vivifying, all standing, have I given to -thee the destination to go to the island of Crete. Keep this a secret -to thyself, and continue to say thou art going to Malta; take that -direction with the fleet first, remain a couple of days on the shores -of Morea, and then sail back to Candia; disembark the troops before -daybreak, and take possession of St. Todero, so as to have a firm post, -from whence to begin the siege of Canea. These are my instructions, -if thou return victorious, (if it please God) I’ll reward you to a -degree that you shall appear with a brilliant face before God. Keep -your secret well, according to the maxim, which commands every man to -hide three things, Zeheb, Zeháb, and Mezheb, viz. his gold, his walks, -his sect.” After this instruction Yússúf Páshá was invested with two -golden robes one above the other, and Sultán Ibrahím said; “Go now with -God, who will assist thee.” He went on board the High Admiral’s ship, -Bashdarda, and the astronomers of the Court having fixed the favourable -moment for getting under weigh, the Commander-in-Chief gave the order -to the High Admiral, and at the same time five hundred clarions -sounded; from the Admiral’s ship the shouts of Allah! allah! pierced -the air, and the skies were rent with the noise of muskets and guns. -The shouts and salutes were repeated three times, and the Admiral’s -ship took the lead, the music playing the tune Segáh. Passing the -Sinán-koskh the Commander-in-Chief saluted the Emperor and the Great -Vezír, and the other ships followed like a row of cranes, keeping up -such a heavy fire, that the birds of heaven found themselves so many -salamanders in the midst of fire, like Abraham in the oven of Nimrod. -I, poor Evliyá, accompanied this expedition as Chief Moëzzin of the -Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf Páshá, was messmate of Ibrahím Chelebí, -Clerk of the Treasury, on board of the Bashdarda, and passed my time -pleasantly eating dates and diavolini (Kotrobunát). - - -_Station of Gallipolis._ - -The fleet anchored here after a salute fired from the fortress, and -repeated by the whole fleet. The Mussulman victors all went to the -arsenal to hasten the embarkation of the European troops on board of -fifty barbaresque vessels, and on the opposite side in the harbour of -Chárdák, the Asiatic troops were also doing the same. In twenty-four -hours every thing was completed, and next day the fleet weighed anchor -again amidst the noise of muskets and guns. We passed Tenedos (Búzja -Ada); ten Firkata were sent on ten miles a-head to keep a good look -out. Their captains were invested with robes of honour, and promised -to be made Begs of the Imperial arsenal (post captains). We passed -Tine (Istendíl) which belonged to the Venetians, who sent presents -on board the Admiral’s ship, but no notice was taken of them, and we -sailed by. We passed Thera (Degirmenlik), an Ottoman island belonging -to the khass of the Captain Páshá, weathered the point of Temashalik -(Sunium), passed Athens, the castle of Termísh in Morea, and stopped at -Napoli (di Romania), a strong castle at the end of a great port, where -we took in provisions for the troops of twenty-seven Rumelian sanjaks; -we did the same at Benefshe, which is an open place with no port; -passed Candia, taking no notice, as if we were going to Malta, passed -Cerigo and Cerigotto also belonging to the Venetians, the fortresses of -Coron and Modon, and the island of Borák, a small island near Morea, -till we came to Navarin. This is a large port defended by two castles, -one on the shore, the other on high rocks. Here we came to anchor -and discharged the lading of ten heavy transport ships (Chakálgemí) -of the Arsenal, shifting their cargoes of troops and artillery on -to lighter ones. During our stay here, the commanders of Zante and -Cephalonia, Venetian Islands, sent presents of powder and lead to the -Commander-in-Chief, wishing him a happy voyage and success in the -expedition; seeing that every thing was directed against Malta, they -returned with great satisfaction. We took on board here three thousand -brave Albanians, and also took in water, because a great fresh water -river disembogues into the sea at the extremity of this port. - -On the third day the flag was hoisted, the trumpet of departure -sounded, and nine hundred small and large ships left the port. -The two captains Karabaták and Dúrák with ten small Firkata were -at the head, as look-out ships, leading towards Malta, which was -thought by the whole of the fleet to be its destination. At noon the -Commander-in-Chief turned round on a sudden, made signals for the -whole fleet to do the same, and again passed by Cerigo, the Castle of -which now began to light fires, and fire signal guns. At sunset we were -before Candia, and before daybreak the whole fleet anchored opposite -the castle of St. Todero on the north side of the island at the harbour -of Súda. Troops and two light guns (culverines) were disembarked with -the necessary ammunition, the castle assailed, and in less than two -hours forced to surrender. At sunrise the Infidels marched out and -were embarked in ships for Cerigo. The ships were now secured in the -port, and large guns placed behind gabions to defend them. The two -governors of Karamán and Adana were left in garrison, and the whole -fleet anchored at the harbour of the Lazaret, close to Canea. The whole -army disembarked with their tents, seventy great guns (Bályemez), forty -falconets, and two hundred small guns (Sháhitop) and encamped out of -reach of gun shot. The fleet anchored in the port of the Lazaret safe -against all possible winds, and the Begs (Captains) of the Barbareses -received orders to cruise with seventy Firkata. The Shaikas and Kara -Múrsal also now disembarked their cargoes, and the governor of Sivás -was commanded to watch over the security of the port, which is situated -on the west side of Canea. Praise be to God, it was taken very easily. -It is situated sixty miles distance from Cape Kabájá in Morea, and its -conquest as well as that of St. Todero, was first thought necessary -for the facility of passing troops from Morea. Great batteries were -raised and furnished with large guns to protect the fleet lying in it, -meanwhile Firkatas were keeping the open sea at twenty and thirty miles -distance as guardships, (Karaúl Kúllik). - - -_Siege of the Fortress of Canea._ - -The camp being pitched round the Castle of Canea at a gun-shot’s -distance, and every man having taken his post according to the orders -of the Commander-in-Chief, the janissaries first entered the trenches. -The next day the Commander-in-Chief held a grand review in sight of the -Infidels, and in defiance of them, who were confounded at this show -of the Ottoman power. As soon as he had dismounted at his tent, forty -thousand men with shovels and axes began to work on the trenches at -seven points round the fortress. (1) On the south side the Aghá of the -janissaries, in whose company the Commander-in-Chief himself entered -the trenches. (2) The governor of Anatoli, with ten regiments and the -Zagarjí-bashí. (3) The governor of Rúmelí with ten regiments headed -by the Samsúnjí-bashí. (4) The governor of Sivás with five regiments -headed by the Khassekí. (5) On the east side at the silver bulwark, -the Barbareses opened the trenches. (6) On the west side at the golden -bulwark, the governor of Haleb, with three regiments of Zenberekjí. In -short, the attack was carried on from seven points. The north side -bordering on the sea and the port was alone unable to be attacked by -trenches, which were opened on all other points of the compass. The -Infidels having enjoyed peace ever since the conquest of Cyprus, their -artillery and arsenals were in the highest state of perfection. During -seven days and nights they fired forty thousand guns and many hundred -thousand musket-shot; seven thousand men became martyrs being killed -in the trenches, and their property taken possession of by the fiscus. -But the Moslím victors encouraged by the presence and the gifts of the -Commander-in-Chief, advanced with undaunted steadiness, and arrived -on the tenth day at the edge of the ditch. Seven batteries with large -guns were battering the walls on seven sides. During twenty days and -nights the fire continued to rage from both sides. The Moslims at last -began to raise mounds of earth on the side of the sand bulwark, which -being perceived by the garrison, they burned the Moslims with shells -and grenades. This way of continuing the siege above ground being -found impracticable, it was carried on by mines under ground. On the -west side of the town, where the Lazaret is established, a mine of -three mouths was blown up, and with it seventy yards of the wall, with -all the Infidels upon it, who were sent through the sky to hell. The -Infidels witnessing this artful mining, imitated it, they passed under -the ditch and blew the mounds of earth with a couple of hundred men -into the air; so that the air was obscured by the dust for more than an -hour’s time. The Mussulman victors not caring for this, exhorted one -another, and the volunteers brought in heads and prisoners whom they -caught at the breaches. The Commander rewarded those who brought heads -with fifty, and those who brought prisoners with an hundred ducats, -making them besides a present of the men and distributing ziámets and -timárs. - -The Faithful devoting themselves with heart and soul, penetrated -sometimes into the interior of the fortress, from whence they brought -heads and prisoners, and amongst the last even the son of the -commanding general. But this day was a bloody one, which cost many -lives. - -One day an Infidel descending on a rope-ladder, came into the -Commander-in-Chief’s tent, and said he had good news to tell -him, if he would promise the safety of his house and family. The -Commander-in-Chief granted immediately what he asked, and promised to -give him the command of the Infidels besides. He then confirmed his -promise by an oath, and tied a handkerchief of pardon round his neck. -Then the Infidel said that there were two parties in the castle, the -Greeks who wished to surrender, and the Venetians who wished to defend -themselves to the last man. The latter were assembled on the side of -the harbour, where the fortress had not yet been battered, he advised, -therefore, to disturb them by a battery raised on that side, and -to throw into the Greek quarter, some arrows only, with flattering -promises to the Greeks. This advice having been followed, ten Greeks -came, who embraced Islám, and received Mussulman names. The siege -was, however, continued with the same zeal. On the east side of the -harbour a great bastion was raised, from which the high houses and -palaces of the Infidels near the port were battered, and where cries -and lamentations pierced the skies. The same day orders were issued to -all Captains of the Navy, and to the Begs of the Barbareses, to keep -a good watch, and twelve Maúnas were ordered to batter the port, and -the sea side of the town. This raised a great outcry there, but some -of the shots injuring the camp, other orders were issued to the chief -gunner of the fleet. The Infidels never relaxing in their fire and -their stratagems, there was no day without a couple of hundred falling -martyrs. It would be too tedious to relate all the memorable events of -this siege; in short, one day the Infidels seeing forty thousand brave -men with drawn swords and heavy shields, ready to assail the walls, -hoisted the white flag of surrender, crying, “Amán, amán, O exquisite -family of Osmán!” No regard being paid to this, and the firing -continuing as before, some Captains came out by the breaches, asking -for a respite of ten days. The Commander-in-Chief answered, “You will -walk out to-morrow, or all fall victims to the sword.” This was agreed -to. Some of them remained in the tent of the Commander-in-Chief, some -went into the castle and returned with the answer, that next morning -they would all be ready to surrender. The Janissaries, Sipáhis, Jebejis -and Topjis, instantly took possession of the walls and the artillery, -and during the night, the Infidels were embarked for their cursed -country. The next day the Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, salutes of -guns and muskets fired, and those salutes repeated thrice from time to -time during three days. The ships of the Infidels steering eastward to -the Castles of Retimo and Candia, their General when he saw and heard -these rejoicings, when he heard the profession of Islám proclaimed from -the belfries, when he saw the crosses upset and the green banner of -Mohammed waving on the spires, could not bear such a sight, but blinded -himself. The whole fleet now entered the harbour, and messengers were -sent to Constantinople with the good news. Seventy-seven tartanas and -galleys, and fifty barbaresque ships, came to an anchor. All the stores -and ammunition were disembarked, and large batteries raised on the -shore to mount the guns on. The troops were occupied in cleansing the -trenches and ditches, and repairing the walls; thus the castle became -ten times stronger than it was before; all the churches were converted -into mosques, and the first Friday prayer performed in the mosque of -Sultán Ibrahím. The streets were adorned with shops and lighted with -lamps during the night. The clarions sounded after the prayer was -performed, the shouts of Allah pierced the skies, and a triple salute -was fired, the report of which shook not only Rome and Irak, but the -whole of earth and Heaven. - -The sixth day after the conquest of the castle, a fleet of a hundred -sail bearing the Venetian, Tuscan, and Popish flag came to the -assistance of it; but when they saw the port full of the Ottoman fleet, -and the ships of the Barbareses cruising before it, when they saw the -belfries turned into minarehs, and the Crescents in the place of the -Crosses, they sighed heavily, “Good-by Canea! Good-by Canea!” and -sailed in despair for Súda. The Ottoman victors found in the conquered -fortress all the slaves and girls of the late Kislar Agassí embarked -on board the galleon of Ibrahím Chelebí, all his precious things, and -high-bred horses; they revenged the blood shed, and turned the Convents -of their monks and nuns into those of Dervishes. The contest at this -siege was scarcely so heavy and bloody as at the sieges of Assov, -Eriván and Baghdád, which have been celebrated by eloquent writers. -The Commander-in-Chief sent messengers and letters to nine towns and -fortresses of the island, and to the Rayas in the interior of the -island in the mountains of Assfákia, summoning them to pay tribute, -to surrender to the Sultán the keys of their castles, and to enjoy -ease and plenty under the protection of the Emperor; threatening those -who would not comply with this demand, with the havoc of their lands, -slavery of their families, and death to themselves by the sword. Within -seven days came three hundred deputies from all places and villages -in the island to pay obeisance and bring presents. The rest of the -island not having submitted, the Vezírs and Begler-Begs received -orders to send the Ottoman victors to collect the legal tithes. From -seventy to eighty thousand men were immediately dispersed over the -seven hundred and seventy miles of the island, taking booty, day and -night, in the ways of God. Gold, silver, brass vessels, fine boys, and -pretty girls, were carried in immense numbers to the Ottoman camp, -where there was such an abundance that a boy or girl was sold for -eighteen piastres. Some thousand men of the army, seeing such plenty, -settled in the island. Kuchúk Hassan Pashá with seventeen Begler-Begs, -seventy Alaï-Begs, and all the Zaims and Timariots, remained at Canea, -besides the garrison of regular troops, consisting of twenty-seven -regiments of janissaries, ten regiments of artillery, ten regiments of -armourers, four regiments of cavalry, and three thousand men, Egyptian -troops; altogether seventy-seventy thousand men. In the castle remained -seven thousand seven hundred Azabs, and forty ships were left for the -transport of troops from Menkeshe, besides fifty firkata manned with an -hundred stout lads. - -The Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf, took leave of all the Vezírs and -great men, and weighed anchor with a favourable wind, and sailed for -Constantinople. He passed with a fleet of two hundred sail before -Cerigo and Cerigotto, destroyed the repairs of the Mainotes at the -Cape of Maina in Morea, with the Castle of Killí situated on the same -point; passed the Cape of Capospada, and the Castle of Menkeshí, and -came to anchor at Napoli. After a stay of three days a council was -held, and it was resolved to lay waste the Island of Istendil (Tine), -belonging to the Venetians. At the moment the fleet was sailing, an -Imperial rescript arrived from Constantinople congratulating the -Commander-in-Chief on his victories, and rewarding him with an Imperial -robe of honour, and a sword and cutlass set with jewels. The same day -the Island of Tine was plundered, but no great booty found. Its castle -being strong and high, the signal of departure was immediately given, -and the southerly wind being favourable, in the course of ten days -we touched at different places, such as Chios, Lemnos, Mitylene, and -Tenedos; these castles were put in repair, and garrisoned with the -necessary number of troops. From Tenedos we arrived at Gallipolis, -where we took water, and where the Commanders received strict orders -to be watchful. From hence, in two days and one night, we reached the -Prince’s Islands, in sight of Constantinople, and next day arrived -at the Seraglio point, with such demonstrations of joy as cannot be -expressed. The conqueror of Canea, Yússúf Páshá, kissed the ground -before the Emperor, was decorated with Imperial robes of honour, and -offered a treasure worth that of Egypt, and youths like those of -Paradise, besides an infinite number of presents. But he was afterwards -calumniated and killed. When Sultán Ibrahím saw his body, he said, “how -white he was!” and fell a-crying. He added, “My Yússúf, may those, who -have played thee this trick soon share thy fate!” and, while saying -so, he looked at his favourite Jinjí Khojá. His death caused general -complaint and lamentations, and there was but one voice of sorrow. -God’s mercy be upon him! - - -_Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá._ - -Envious calumniators informed the Emperor, that Yússúf Páshá had -secreted from the treasures of Canea three great tubs of gold, three -millions of money, and a golden column; that he had not given a drop -of the ocean nor an atom of the sun of his treasures to the Emperor. -After his death nothing was found, and the column wrapt up in felt, -which had been said to be a golden tree, was found to be a column of -yellow stone, which was afterwards used to support the oratory of the -mosque built by the mother of Mohammed IV. It is a stone more precious -indeed than gold and jewels, because persons afflicted with jaundice -are cured by touching it three times on a Saturday. This is the stone -which caused the death of Yússúf Páshá. - -“The servant proposes and God disposes, and the tongues of the people -are the pens of God.” When Sultán Ibrahím disclosed the secret of -the expedition to Yússúf Páshá on his departure, he said, “If thou -returnest victorious I’ll reward thee according to thy merits:” and -indeed it happened so, because the conquest of Canea, an enterprise -so difficult, was granted to Yússúf Páshá before the arrival of the -enemy’s fleet by a special favour of God, and no reward could equal -such merit, but the glory of Martyrdom. He was beloved of God, who -first granted him the conquest and then the Martyr’s crown. Praise be -to God that I, poor Evliyá, witnessed such a famous siege, and returned -safe to my native city. I kissed my parents’ hands, who wished me joy -on my safe return. My father said, “The campaign thou hast made now -renders my going into the field superfluous.” I said, “My dear father, -you have grown old, you have been present at seventy battles since -Sultán Súleimán’s time. Pray now for your beloved son, who shall go -into battles instead of you.” I kissed his hand, and he then told me -the following story, exhorting me to listen to it with the ears of my -soul. - -“In the year when thou wast born, my son, in the reign of Sultán Ahmed -I. a great assembly of seven hundred Vezírs and great men was held -at the Hippodrome in order to lay the foundation of Sultán Ahmed’s -mosque. They dug from forty to fifty cubits deep, and the walls of -the foundations having reached the level of the earth, the Ulemas and -Astronomers were assembled, and with the prayers and ceremonies usual -in similar cases the position of the mihráb determined. Kalender Páshá -was named inspector, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, the Secretary, and our -Khoja (Evliyá’s reading-master) Evliyá Efendí, Imám of the foundations; -the Sheikh of Scutarí, Mahommed Efendí, was named the Sheikh; Mahmúd -Chelebí, Kara Mahmúd Agha, and forty other men with fine voices, the -Moëzzins of the foundations. One day Sultán Ahmed came, and pitched -his tent on that part of the courtyard of the mosque, where there then -remained only a single painted Koshk belonging to the Seraï of Koja -Mohammed Páshá. Here the Sultán gave a feast to all the Vezírs and -great men of the capital, which surpassed even that which was given -at the feast of circumcission of Sultán Ahmed. The assembly having -retired, there remained in the Sultán’s tent, only Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutarí, Evliyá Efendí my master, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, Ibrahím -Efendí the senior of the surgeons, Dervish Omar Gulshení one of the -favourite singers and I, thy poor father, sitting on our heels. The -Sultán said unto us, “If it please God this mosque shall be finished, -and be a fine praying place, but it requires to be well endowed.” -Evliyá and Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí said, “My gracious Emperor, -undertake a military expedition, and then devote the revenues of the -conquered land to your new built mosque, as your ancestor Súleimán did, -who having in person conquered Rodos, Stancio, and different other -islands, devoted their revenues to his mosque, which is, therefore, -the best endowed of all the Imperial mosques. If your Majesty should -undertake an expedition against Creta (Kiríd), you would protect -the passage of Ottoman merchants and pilgrims from the ships of the -Infidels. The senior of the surgeons, Ibrahím, and Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutari said a Fátihah for this good intention, the seven prayers of -which were repeated by all present, who finished it by saying, ‘If it -please God our prayer shall be granted.’ - -“Sultán Ahmed then said, ‘But, learned gentlemen, we are at peace -with the Venetians, is it decent for a Shehin-shah (king of kings) to -encroach on treaties of peace? Under what pretext shall we break it, -particularly now, when Anatoli is kept in rebellion by Kara Yazijí, -Saíd Arab, Kalender-oghlí and Jennet-oghlí, against whom my Vezír Murad -Lálá is marching? How shall I then think of the conquest of Candia?’ -Evliyá answered, ‘My Emperor, on the third day all the rebels shall be -beaten, and you shall receive the good news on the twelfth, they shall -pass away like a torrent; Murad Páshá shall fill wells with their dead -bodies, and obtain in history by this deed the name of Murad Páshá the -well-maker (Kúyújí).’ This prediction was accomplished by the news that -Murad Páshá, had filled all the wells near Haleb and Azez with the -bodies of the rebels. Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari availed himself of this -opportunity to remind the Emperor of the project of the Cretan war, -and suggested to him, first to send an embassy to the Prince of Venice -to ask that he should give up the island of Creta. Sultán Ahmed, being -pleased with this idea, sent Kúrd-Chaúsh, a good and eloquent speaker, -with presents, as ambassador to Venice. He made great haste, and at the -end of seven days arrived at Venice, making his public entrance on the -eighth, and read his letters in public council; the Senate consented -to the demand, and letters were made out, with which Kúrd-Chaúsh was -sent back; having kissed the ground before the Emperor, the letters -were read by the Interpreter in presence of Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari, -Evliyá, Sunbul Alí, Ibrahím, Togháni, Ismail Efendí the Commentator on -the Mesneví, Júnúbí the Sheikh of the Mevlevís at Kássím Páshá, Dervish -Omer Gulshení, Guzeljí Gulábí, Kúzú Alí Aghá, Abdí Aghá, and of me, thy -poor father, in the following form and tenor, ‘You have asked from me -the Principe, your most humble servant, the island of Creta, with six -hundred thousand inhabitants, seven hundred and seventy villages, and -of seven hundred and seventy miles circumference, with seven mines of -gold, silver and other metals, which we are ready to give.’ At these -words all those who were present read the Fátihah, and the Mohammedan -shouts (Allah! Allah!) rent the air. - -“The end of the letter said, ‘But we poor fellows, giving to you, great -Monarch, an island as rich as that of Creta, we beg of you the favour -to make us a present of the ports of Acra, Saida, Beirút, and of the -old seat of our religion, Jerusalem. It is only for this purpose we can -cede to you the island of Creta, and it would be more reasonable to -deliver your hereditary countries from the rebels, who infest it, than -to form such strange demands:—Our compliments to you!’ Ahmed hearing -this answer was deeply afflicted, and began to cry. Mahmúd Efendí -said, ‘Why should your Majesty be afflicted; they began by saying, -that they were ready to give up the island, it is God who has dictated -these words to them, according to which they shall be obliged to yield -the island.’ A Fátihah was said, and the Mahommedan shouts (Allah!) -repeated. Then they said, ‘If it please God, it shall most certainly -be conquered,’ and saying so, they changed the conversation. When this -letter was again read at the Diván, the Emperor happened to be in his -innermost garden at the place called Chemensoffa, conversing with the -abovenamed learned and virtuous gentlemen. At this moment the gate of -the innermost Harem opened, and the Kislar-agassí walked out, followed -by seven Princes, who kissed the hands of the Emperor, and then of -the Sheikhs, who were with him, and the Sultán said, ‘Gentlemen, the -Princes my sons, are your most humble servants.’ He then ordered that -they should play before him, to dissipate the melancholy which the -answer of the Venetians had caused. They played ball, and Prince Osmán, -the strongest and stoutest of them, was superior to the rest. Coming -near his father’s throne, he asked him, ‘My Osmán! wilt thou conquer -Creta?’ The Prince answered, ‘What shall I do with Creta? I will -conquer the land of the white Russian girls, and shed blood there.’ -Saying so, he continued to play; Evliyá Efendí, praise to God, the -innocent boy could not reach the meaning of the Emperor’s words. Mahmúd -observed, that he had understood well the word Creta, but that there -was something mysterious in his answer about the white Russian girls. -Now Prince Osmán came up pursuing his brother Mohammed even under the -throne, where Mohammed sheltered himself, and having crept forth again, -the ball, which Osmán threw at him, touched his gilt turban, and hurt -his neck so that blood was flowing, and he turned giddy. - -“Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Look Mohammed, Osmán is thy brother, and yet he -has hurt thee, this is the course of the world: strike him in your -turn.’ He wiped his blood off, and having seated him at the foot of -the throne, he asked him, ‘Will you conquer Creta, Mohammed?’ Mohammed -said, ‘I will, but my brother Osmán sheds my blood; if it is not me, -another Mohammed will finish the conquest begun by me.’ The Senior -of the Surgeons, Ibrahím said, ‘Praise be to God, what secrets are -revealed to-day! but nobody yet understands them.’ Now the Princes -continued to play at ball; Bayazíd and Súleimán were chasing each -other, when all at once, Prince Murad sallied forth from the place -called the black cypress, and threw a ball at them, which hurt them -both, so that blood dropped from their noses. Sultán Ahmed said, ‘My -Murad, why dost thou beat thy brethren so.’ The Prince replied, ‘It was -not my intention, but such is the play of the world, I was obliged to -do it because they gained upon me, and were going to take my place!’ -Omer Gulshení said, ‘There is also some mystery in that.’ Now came -Prince Ibrahím in a ruby-coloured dress: Sultán Ahmed asked him, ‘Where -have you been my Ibrahím?’ ‘I,’ said he, ‘have taken the ablution of -martyrdom, and am now come to wrestle and play with all my brethren.’ -He entered wildly and threw a ball at Sultán Osmán’s head, so that he -knocked off his turban and set him crying. Prince Murad now threw a -ball at Ibrahím, which he received undaunted, feigned to direct his -ball at Bayazíd, but turned round in a moment, and threw it at Murad -with such violence, that he was for some time senseless. Ibrahím now -ran to his father’s throne, sat at the foot of it, and said, ‘Have I -not aimed a good ball at Murad,’ and then fell to indelicate play. -Murad was crying on the ground, saying, ‘I had rather died, than have -been beaten in that way by Ibrahím!’ The play continuing, to the -surprise of all the beholders, Murad again pursued Ibrahím, and threw -the ball at him, which he received as boldly as the first time, and -retreated under the throne, from whence he then issued without his -turban and in a state of undress. Sultán Ahmed caught hold of his ear, -and said, ‘Wilt thou conquer Creta, and make of it an endowment for my -mosque for Mecca and Medina.’ The Prince said, ‘If God assists me, and -helps me, in God’s name, and if it pleases God, my son Yússúf shall -conquer it under Yússúf the Prophet’s favour!’ All who were present now -said a Fátihah that this might happen, and Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Now, -how curious it is, that I am fallen into melancholy since the Venetian -letter has been read, that wishing to divert myself with my children’s -play, they got bloody necks and noses, and made me more melancholy than -before, till Ibrahím has at once chased away my spleen by saying that -he will conquer Creta by his son.’ God’s mercy on Sultán Ahmed! All -that had been foreshewn in this play, really happened. - -“1. Sultán Osmán who hurt his brother Mohammed’s neck, ordered him to -be executed when going to Khotyn. - -“2. Sultán Osmán, who was hurt by Ibrahím’s ball in his groin, died -after his unsuccessful return from Khotyn, at the Seven Towers, when -one Piniál tortured him till he died by compression of the scrotum. - -“3. The two Princes, Bayazíd and Súleimán, overtaken by Murad at the -black cypress, were strangled in the same place, the blood dropping -from their noses, by Sultán Murad’s order in the year 1045, when he -sent Beshír Aghá to Constantinople with the news of the conquest of -Eriván. They were buried in their father Ahmed’s tomb, twenty-one years -after this play had happened in their father’s presence. - -“4. The ball received by Ibrahim from Murad foreboded that Ibrahím -would be, as he was, Murad’s successor. - -“5. Ibrahím’s indelicate play at the foot of the throne, showed the -luxury of his reign passed in weddings and pleasure parties. - -“6. His having then said; ‘woe to my cullies,’ was the forerunner of -the infamous disease of which he died. - -“7. The reply given by Ibrahím, when coming forth from beneath his -father’s throne, and saying, that he would conquer Creta with his son -Yússúf, is to be understood of Yússúf Pashá the Commander-in-chief of -the expedition to Canea. - -“8. God knows my son (continued Evliyá’s father) whether the name -of Yússúf may not be applied to Ibrahím’s son, who shall finish the -conquest of Creta begun by his father. - -“My son, all these mysteries I witnessed in Sultán Ahmed’s presence, -and have waited ever since for the conquest of Creta promised by Sultan -Ibrahím to his father, and now fulfilled accordingly. I, thy poor -father, was present at the prayers then said at the suggestion of this -conquest, and thou my son hast witnessed the fulfilling of it. If it -please God, thou shalt witness also its entire conquest.” - -It was in this manner that my father, Dervish Mohammed, the chief of -the goldsmiths at Constantinople, related the story of the Princes. -God’s mercy upon him! As some thousand descriptions of the siege of -Canea exist, I would not expatiate too much on this subject, but have -related what I witnessed in a plain way. - -Jowánjí Kapújí Mohammed Páshá the great Vezír being deposed, he was -named Commander-in-chief at Creta, and the Vezírat given to the -Defterdár Sáleh Páshá, who bestowed on his brother, Murteza Páshá, -the governorship of Bude with three tails; and on Ibrahim Chelebí, -who had been Khazinedár, the governorship of Baghdád. The son of -Sáleh Páshá, Chelebí Mohammed, known by the name of the hanged -Defterdár-zadeh Mohammed Páshá, was made Aghá of the janissaries, with -the character of Vezír, but, as he did not accept of it, he was sent -as Commander-in-chief to Erzerúm. I, poor Evliyá, was appointed clerk -at the custom-house of Erzerúm, Moëzzin and companion to this Páshá. -He was a man of agreeable conversation, great acquirements in all -sciences, generous, brave, a poet and statesman. He bestowed on me rich -presents, and I prepared my tents for the journey to Erzerúm. I was -invested with a robe of honour (caftán) in Sultán Ibrahím’s presence. -He said unto the Páshá, giving him the Imperial rescript, “Thou art -my absolute Vezír and Commander against the Persians; if they should -become rebels, all the army of Anatolia as far as Eriván is under thy -command.” He gave him five purses, fifty mules and as many camels for -the journey, a splendid tent, and two sable pelisses. We passed under -Sultán Ibrahím’s blessing to Scutari, where we pitched our tents at -the place called Agháchairí. The same day, Cherkess Derzí Mustafa, one -of the Imperial armsbearers (Silahshor), was sent express to Erzerúm -to Malatialí Silihdár Súleimán Páshá. During our stay at Scutari, -the treasurer of the Páshá Dilber Chelebí was deposed by an Imperial -firmán, and his place given to Alí Aghá one of the relations of the -Páshá; we remained a week at Scutari, and then, on the first day of -Rejeb, set out on our journey for Erzerúm. - - - - -JOURNEY TO ERZERUM. - - -Having remained a month in Scutari, the buildings of which town have -been minutely described in our first volume; the news arrived that the -Mossellem (substitute of the Páshá) had happily taken possession of -the governorship; the Páshá immolated victims, and everybody rejoiced, -because the principal reason for conferring this governorship on -Defterdár-zadeh was the rumour which prevailed, that Abaza Páshá the -famous rebel, whom Sultán Murad had spared, contrary to the wishes of -the troops, had returned from his travels in Africa and India, but -most happily Súleimán Páshá, the governor of Erzerúm (predecessor of -Abaza) killed this pretender and sent his head to Constantinople, and -the Mosellem, Mustafa Aghá, took possession of the governorship. We -set out from Scutari in the early part of Sha’abán, and arrived at the -end of seven hours march at Pendík, a great village on the seabord, it -belonging to the foundation of Kirechjíbashí at Scutari. Its numerous -gardens supply the Capital with vegetables. Here our master received -from the Great Vezír Sáleh Páshá, ten purses, ten horses, and a great -number of other valuable presents. From hence the quarter-master -(Konakjí) and chief of the cellar (Kilárjí), with the inspector of the -kitchen (Mutbakhemíní), and the purveyor at market (Bazára giden), led -the van with five hundred men and a tail. - - -_Gebíze._ - -This was formerly a large town. At the time when Sídí Battál besieged -Constantinople, a great convent existed at Constantinople, within -the gate of Sílívrí, at the place now called the mosque of Koja -Mustafa Páshá. Harún-ur-rashíd, built a fortress here and garrisoned -it with three thousand men, in order to keep the infidels in check. -The inhabitants of Gebíze having killed some men belonging to Sídí -Battál, who commanded the garrison of the said fortress, he laid the -town of Gebíze in ruins, and retired to Malatia; traces of this havoc -are still visible. It was conquered by Mohammed I., who destroyed the -castle, that it might not be a refuge for the infidels; but Sultán -Mohammed II. rebuilt it after the conquest of Constantinople. It is -now a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers in the sanjak of -Koja Ilí. Mustafa Páshá, who built the bridge which bears his name -in Rúmelí, built a mosque here, whose administrator (Mutevelí) is -at the same time commanding officer of the place. It lies an hour’s -distance from the sea, at the top of a dry mountain; there are about -one thousand houses with gardens, in the ancient style, three mosques, -the largest of which covered with lead, outshines the mosques of the -Vezírs at Constantinople; it was built by Mustafa Páshá, the builder -of the bridge called by Sultán Súleimán, the bridge of the illiberal -(Namerd), who when governor of Egypt had the finest stones cut in -plates to adorn this mosque, and made a stone candelabrum of them, -which has no equal in the world. The stones came direct from Egypt to -the landing-place of Daríjí, where they were disembarked. The interior -of the mosque is lined with marble and granite to the height of three -men, which is not to be seen in any other mosque in the capital. The -minber (pulpit), mihráb (altar), and mahfil (oratory) of the Moëzzins -are of most excellent workmanship, which is impossible to describe -to those who have not seen it. It was built by the architect Hassám, -the first assistant to the architect Koja Sinán, who showed his skill -here most minutely. The windows on the four sides are composed of -small painted glass, which in sunshine illuminates the mosque with -a most delicious light, therefore it is that you read on the middle -vault the verse of the Koran, God is the light of Heaven. The interior -of the cupola is adorned with circles of lamps and a great number -of suspended decorations. The Egyptian carpets on the floor vie -with those of Isfahan. The pulpit of the preacher (Kursí) is inlaid -with pearl-shell. Outside of the walls is a delicious garden, where -flowers and odoriferous herbs fill the air and brain with perfumes, -and nightingales enrapture with their warbling notes. The mosque has -but one gate opposite the altar; on the threshold is written the -chronograph in the writing of Kara Hissárí Hossein, and in the mosque -seventy Koráns are kept, each of which is worth an Egyptian treasure. -A copy of Yakút Mostea-assemí, like that which is seen here on the -left of the altar, is not to be found elsewhere, except it be at the -mosque of Sultán Ahmed at Constantinople. On both sides of the gate are -six cupolas supported by as many columns, and the cupola immediately -over the gate is the seventh. The Harem or courtyard, as spacious as -those of imperial mosques, is adorned with trees, the mináreh, with one -gallery, is well proportioned. Close to the mosque is a Caravánseraï, -affording accommodation for three thousand men, and two thousand -horses, with a stable appropriated for camels. In the dining-room -(dar-ul-ita’ám), old and young men and women dine in plenty; and at -the Caravánseraï, every evening, every fire-place is furnished with a -dish of soup, a loaf of bread, a candle, and a bag of forage for every -horse, ass, mule or camel. A bath is attached to it, covered with -lead like all the other buildings of this foundation. Besides this -Caravánseraï there are forty large and small kháns, and one hundred and -eighty shops, all the work of Sinán; the mosque in the market is an old -simple building; the houses are all faced with red bricks, the water of -the wells is a little thick, but the air is good. - -We advanced from hence five hours towards the east to the Castle of -Helke or Herke, conquered by Mohammed I. with considerable loss of men. -It is a nice small castle, of immense stones, built on the seashore, -on a cliff between two vallies. Its gate opens to the north and has no -houses within. The district belongs to the sanjak of Koja Ilí. At the -end of eight hours journey along the seashore, we arrived at Isnikmíd -(Nicomedia), which has been already minutely described in our former -journey. After a day’s rest we again started and came, at the end of -six hours march, to Sabánja, called so from Sabánjí Koja, who first -cleared the thick woods here by the plough. In Súleimán’s time it was -cultivated, and Sárí Rostem Páshá founded a khán here with one hundred -and seventy fireplaces, a pleasant mosque and bath covered with lead, -and about one thousand houses faced with brick built by Koja Sinán. -The administrator of these endowments of Rostem Páshá, is at the -same time the first public officer of the place. Besides its white -cherries, it is renowned for its white bread, Súmún, which is baked -in a shop underneath the bath, and which keeps its flavour and does -not become mouldy for the space of six days. It has often been sent by -couriers to the Sháh of Persia, has arrived fresh, and obtained general -approbation. Its good qualities are due to the water. - - -_Praise of the Lake of Sabánja._ - -Its circumference is twenty miles, and seventy-six villages adorn its -shores. The people who drink of its water are of ruddy complexion, and -the products of the land are abundant; there are no vineyards, but a -great number of gardens. On the borders of the lake there are melons -and water-melons of such a size that two make an ass-load. On the lake -are from seventy to eighty kaiks and boats, which are employed in the -passage from village to village, and for the transport of wood. There -are a great number of most delicious fish. Its depth is twenty fathoms, -the water is clear and brilliant, and excellent for washing without -soap. It is this water which gives a whiteness resembling cotton to -the bread Súmúní. On the east side of the lake, at two hours distance, -passes the river Sakaria, which disembogues into the Black Sea in the -province of Koja Ilí at the place called Irva; it would require but -little spirit of enterprise to unite the lake with the sea, by means -of this river, a branch of which goes down to the salt-marshes of -Nicomedia. As early as the reign of Mohammed III. a great number of -workmen were employed in establishing a communication between the gulf -of Nicomedia and the lake of Sabánja, but the undertaking was given up -at the request of the inhabitants. If the Sakaria were united with this -lake, and the lake with the gulf of Nicomedia, this town would be quite -an inland port; the timber and wood might be brought down to Bolí, and -it would cost no more than five aspers the quintal. God make it easy! - -We marched to the eastward six hours, along the seashore, through thick -forests, called “Ocean of trees,” and crossed the Sakaria by a wooden -bridge; this river issues from the mountain Chifteler, passes through -Koja Ilí, and goes into the Black Sea near Irva. - - -_The Station of Khandak-bazárí._ - -A small place belonging to the territory of Koja Ilí, with woods, -mountains, gardens, a mosque, a khán, a bath, a market, a judge -appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers, an officer of the -janissaries, and a Súbashí. In the woody marsh here, is a long wooden -bridge (causeway) famous all over Arabia and Persia. We marched twelve -hours further on through thick forests, and came to Dúzje-bazár, the -first place belonging to Bolí, in a mountainous region, with a mosque -and two kháns founded by Shemsí Páshá, who also paved the road. In the -neighbourhood are many villages. - -West of this place on the side of Akcheshár, and two hours beyond the -river Melán is the place of Úskúbí, a khass of the territory of Bolí, -with a mosque, a khán, and a bath. Nine hours further on we reached -Bolí, conquered in Osmán’s name by Sonkor Baí Shemsí, to whom and to -whose descendants it was given as hereditary property (Ojáklik). Its -castle was built by the Greek Commander of Brússa, it is a small ruined -castle, on a high mountain without vestige of cultivation. According -to the division of Sultán Mohammed II. it is the seat of a sanjak. The -khass of the Beg amounts to three hundred thousand one hundred and -twenty-two aspers, fourteen ziamets, and fifty-five timárs, with the -Jebellis two thousand eight hundred swords. The judge is appointed -with three hundred aspers: five districts belong to it, viz. the -district round the town of Bolí, that of Gokjesúí, that of Sázák Kerde -to the left of Bolí, that of Túrtúr-diván, and that of Yaflije. The -annual revenue is five thousand piastres, and those of the Beg fifteen -thousand. But the judge and Beg are obliged to be very cautious, -because if they commit the smallest injustice, the Rayas can reach -Constantinople in three days, and complain of the oppressor. There is -an officer of the janissaries, of the Sipahís, and a Nakíb-ul-íshráf. -Though the inhabitants are Turcomans, yet there is a great number of -merchants. It is a large town of thirty-four quarters and as many -mosques, three thousand well covered houses, some of which are faced -with bricks; some seraïs and mosques. In the market-place is that of -Mustafa Páshá and of Ferhád Páshá, much frequented; they are both the -work of Koja Sinán the great architect: the best and most pleasant -bath is that of Shemsí: seven kháns, and seven fountains, all founded -by Shemsí Páshá; four hundred elegant shops, but no college or school -of tradition, as far as I know of; but there are seventy schools for -boys, and more than two hundred of whom know the Korán by heart. The -book Mohammedieh is much read here; they have also story-tellers who -recite moral maxims (Oghúz). The mildness of the air contributes to -the beauty of the inhabitants. The women wear Ferrájís and large -head-dresses, they are very decent and modest ladies. There are a -great number of gardens and vineyards. Of its eatables and products -the cherries are the most renowned. The water-cans of fir-tree refresh -those who drink out of them like the living spring; these cans are -called Akasik and Podúch. The inhabitants for the most part are -merchants. The surrounding forests being composed of fir-trees, the -inhabitants live by cutting and making planks of them, which are much -esteemed at Constantinople. Two journies to the west from this place is -the landing-place of Akcheshár; those of Ereglí, Bartín, and Hissárogí, -also belong to the sanjak of Bolí. The hotbath lies to the south, -on the outside of the town; amidst the gardens is a small hotbath, -extremely hot and particularly useful against the itch. It purifies -the stomach and cleanses the body. People of all degrees flock to this -hotbath on waggons. - - -_Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí._ - -The convent of Yúzghád Baba near the hotbath. We marched twelve -hours to the east, through cultivated villages to Kerde, the seat of -a Súbashí subordinate to Bolí; a judge with one hundred and fifty -aspers. The town consists of a thousand wooden and brick-built houses -in a large valley, nine quarters, and eleven mosques, besides the -Mesjíds; three convents, three kháns, two hundred shops, and seven -coffee-houses. The knife-cutlers and tanners of Kerde are renowned for -the knives and Safien of this place. The air is pleasant, and the -inhabitants healthy; they are mostly students eager for information -(Súkhte Thalebí). It is a common saying that Kerde is famous for its -thieves, its tanners, and its winter, which is compared to that of -Erzerúm; the inhabitants are a set of lively stout Turks. At the four -points of the compass, and particularly on the south towards Kánghrí, -are cultivated districts inhabited by forty or fifty thousand Turks. -The names of the districts are, Kizíl-úzú, Alaja-úzú, Aleh-diván, -Bir-diván, Ikí-diván, Uch-diván, and so on to seven Diváns, all in the -mountains. The name of Diván given to these districts originated in -the time of Ertoghrúl, who, being named Beg by Ala-ud-dín the Prince -of the Seljúk family, granted to the Infidels, whose districts he -conquered, the privilege of kettle-drums. The name is thus preserved in -seven districts, whose inhabitants are a rebellious people, speaking a -peculiar language of their own. - -From Kerde we travelled to the eastward for the space of eight hours, -through cultivated villages, to the village of Bayander in the -district of Bolí, a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers. -The conquest of these villages situated amongst steep mountains cost -much blood to Osmán. Here are three hundred covered houses, a khán -where every passenger is allowed to stay, and receives wood, straw -and water, gratis. We travelled thence through a straight, called -Hamámlí Bogház, and came with a thousand difficulties at the end of -nine hours to the place Jerkesh, the seat of a Súbashí in the sanjak -of Kánghrí. Here is a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, an -officer of the janissaries, and Sipáhis. The town consists of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a bath and from forty to fifty shops. Mustafa -Páshá, the sword-bearer to Sultán Murad IV., built a khán here of fifty -fire-places, and one hundred shops, but died before it was finished. -Once a week a great market is held here. Seven hours further on is the -village of Karajalar, a ziámet in the jurisdiction of Kánghrí, three -hundred houses of poor but very obstinate Turks; they will sell a trunk -of a tree forty times over, putting it in the water every night, so -that you may be compelled to lay out ten aspers in brushwood to set it -on fire. A traveller marked one of these trunks by fixing a nail in it, -and when he returned three years afterwards from the siege of Eriván, -they gave him the very same trunk, which he had tried in vain to burn -three years before. Thus they will sell a trunk forty times, and -praise it as being forty years old. They also trade in different small -articles, particularly in girdles, for which Karajalar is renowned. - - -_Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání._ - -Habíb was born at Ortakoí near Nikde, and is buried here. He died a -Sheikh of the Beirámí in the reign of Mohammed II. Hamza Efendí was one -of his disciples. We left Karajalar, and after nine hours walk, we -came to Kojhissár a jurisdiction of Kánghrí. Its castle was conquered -in the year 708 by Osmán, and destroyed in order that it should no -longer afford shelter to the Infidels. Nine hours further on, we -reached the town of Tússia, conquered by Mohammed I, the seat of a -Súbashí, and of a judge appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. -The public officers are a commander of the janissaries (Serdár), an -officer of the Sipáhís (Kiaya-yerí), a Muftí and Nakíb; though it is -a Turkish town, yet there is a great number of learned divines. The -town is situated on an elevation, and consists of three thousand wooden -houses faced with brick, there are eleven quarters, twenty-one mosques, -besides the mesjíds, seven kháns, three hundred and forty shops, and a -Bezestán with an iron gate. The Kúzlí and Leblebí Halwa (two sorts of -sweetmeats) of the place, are famous. The air is heavy; the inhabitants -are Turks, but very kind to strangers. Outside the town in a fine -meadow is the tomb of Sheat Baba Sultán, to which pilgrimages are -performed. - -Our road now led for eight hours, amongst the mountains along the -border of the Kizil Irmák (Red river) when we arrived at the village of -Háj Hamza, the companion and disciple of Habíb Karamání; this village -was his birth-place: there remains only an ancient mosque on the great -road, the other houses are in ruins. It is on the banks of the Kizil -Irmák, the opposite shore of which is laid out in elegant gardens. The -Kizil Irmák issues from the mountains of Churúm and enters the Black -Sea near the village of Báfra, where it forms a cascade, the noise of -which alarms men like the rolling of thunder; the river rushes on with -great impetuosity, and is not navigable. Its colour is red both in -winter and summer; it is a cruel water, for, in attempting to cross to -the opposite shore on horseback I was upset with my horse in the middle -of it, and saved with difficulty by getting hold of a willow. We left -Hájí Hamza and continued our road to the eastward among the mountains -and along the Kizil Irmák. The road winds along the rocks at the base -of the high mountain called Sárímáshiklí, so that on the right side are -the cliffs, and on the left a precipice, at the bottom of which flows -the Kizil Irmák, which in some places must be crossed. After eight -hours march we came to the Castle of Osmanjík. Some say that Osmán was -born at this place, and the castle built by his successors. In the year -795 it was taken out of the hands of the Turks by Ilderím Bayazíd. It -is the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Chúrúm, and has a -judge with a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers appointed to it; -there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Muftí or Nakíb. There are few -distinguished inhabitants, but a great number of gardens. You cross the -Kizil-Irmák by a bridge to the castle, it is of a strong architecture, -no more than eight hundred paces in circumference, with an iron gate. -As it is situated so amazingly high I did not see the interior, but -only the outer town or suburb, consisting of a thousand old Tátár -houses covered with planks and earth, there are seven quarters and -as many mosques, three kháns, and a small bath, the water of which -is drawn from a well supplied by the Kizil Irmák. On three sides of -the town is sandy ground. Raisins are very sweet here on account of -the heat of the soil. In the sand grows a plant called Kabre (Capers) -which preserved in vinegar is in great use. The poor and almost all the -inhabitants are Dervishes of the order of Hají-Begtásh, because one of -their principal Saints is buried on the west side of the town on an -elevated spot. - - -_Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the -Dynasty of the Sheep.)_ - -He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán -Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a -convent, a meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï -with kitchen and cellar. All these establishments are covered with -lead, which with the golden crescents on them dazzle the eyes of -beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen for the poor) is -smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, I -went to visit this place of pilgrimage; I kissed the threshold, -saying, “Es-selám aleik,” and entered the tomb, where I read the -Korán, thanking God for the grace he had granted me to visit it. The -cupola is perfumed with musk and amber, which is very agreeable to the -senses of visitors, on whom the keepers of the mausoleum also sprinkle -rose-water. The preacher and the other Dervishes Begtáshí who watch and -pray at the tomb, said prayers on the head of me, poor Evliyá, wishing -me a happy journey, with good sight, and perfect health and happiness -in both worlds. The Dervishes all uttered the Mohammedan shout (Allah!) -and read a Fátihah. When the Sheikh covered my head with his cap, -I felt a wind blowing on both my ears, and my eyes were lighted up -like Arab torches. Since the shipwreck which I had suffered in the -Black Sea, swimming naked for three days and nights, my sight had -suffered cruelly, and was only restored by this head-dress (the Crown -of felicity) being put on my head. I then conversed with all the poor -of the convent, and dined with them, and I have ever since kept the -symbols of Dervishship, which I received at the Convent, viz. the habit -(Khirka); the carpet (Sejáde;) the standard (A’alem); the drum (Tabl -Kúdúmí); the halter (Pálehenk); the stick (Assa); and the head-dress or -crown, (Táj). - -Inside of the cupola are different inscriptions by the visitors, to -which I added one of my own composition which suddenly occurred to me. -The name of Koyún Baba was given to this Saint, because when he came -from Khorassán in Hají Begtásh’s company, he bleated like a sheep once -in twenty-four hours, which was the signal for prayer. The Dervishes -of the order of Begtásh are generally in bad repute, but those of this -convent are indeed meek like sheep, devout, pious, praying people, and -in all my travels in Rúm, Arabia, and Persia, I met nowhere a more -worthy convent. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh._ - -A great Saint renowned for many miracles. The bridge, a work of Bayazíd -II. is a marvellous pile of building of nineteen arches, each arch -gives an idea of the rainbow, of the galaxy, of the girdle of Divine -Power, or of the Ták Kosra. Its length, from one end to the other, is -four hundred and fifty paces; and although the river was so rapid, the -architect built it straight as the bridge of Sirát (over which souls -are to pass on the day of the last Judgment). We halted here for a day, -then again crossing the bridge, and marching towards the west, amidst -frightful mountains, we arrived at the small pass of Direglibíl; which, -if one man only ascends to the top of the rock, and rolls stones down, -he may defend against a thousand men. It is known in all Asia, and -called Diregli-bíl (the pass with trees), because the mountain being -excavated in many places, and threatening to fall down, the rocks are -supported by trees, which were placed there by well-meaning people. -Here our gracious lord the Páshá descended from his horse, and taking -some of the stones out of the road, which encumbered it, himself threw -them down the precipice; this example was instantly followed by the -whole suite, four hundred men, who dismounting, cleared the road of -the stones, shouting Allah, with the clarions sounding. After nine -hours march from Osmánjik, we came to the village Hájíkoï, the frontier -of the sanjak of Amasia, a ruined village, with a khán in ruins, -though it is very well situated for cultivation. Six hours further -on we reached the field of Márziván, and the village of Kerkiráz, -belonging to Amasia, with sixty villages, a mosque, and khán, also -falling into ruins. At the end of eight hours we came to the mountain -town of Amasia, which is said to have been built by the Amalekites, -and, according to others, by Ferhád, the mountain cutter. In the year -476 (1083) it was conquered by Sultán Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend -family. The princes of Azerbeiján laid siege to it more than once, -without being able to take it. From the hands of the Dánishmend family -it passed into those of the Seljúk. It was then conquered by Sultan -Ilderím, who thus prevented its falling into the hands of Timúr. He -then made his son Issa Chelebi governor, and coins were struck, which -bear the inscription of Amasia, of the purest silver, which is found -in three mines here. At the division of the empire by Sultan Mohammed -II, Amasia is described as the seat of a Beg. It has sometimes been -given as Arpalik to Vezírs of three tails. According to the Kanún, -its khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets, -and forty-two timárs; it has an Alaï Beg and Cheri-bashí. The Zaims -and Timáriots, with the Jebellí, amount to three thousand men; the -judge has three hundred aspers a day. The districts (Náhie) are those -of Aine-bazár, Kildighán, Aktágh, and Kafála; the jurisdictions those -of Koprí, Samara, Zeitún, Gumish, Búlák, Merzifún, Kerkerár, Ládik, -Veraï, and Zenún-abád. The annual revenue of the judge is valued at -seven thousand piastres, and those of the Páshá at seventy thousand -piastres. Five Súbashis are attached to the khass of the Pásha, -viz., Shehrbáh-bazár, Weraï, Aine-bazárí, Aktágh, and Súliova. Its -magistrates are, the Sheikh-ul-Islám, the Nakíb-ul-ishráf, the Serdár -of the Janissaries, and the Kiayayerí of the Sipahis. There are many -learned divines and rich merchants. - - -_Form and size of Amasia._ - -Its towers, crowning the height of the mountains are always veiled with -clouds, and it is only at noon that the spires of the mosques, and the -roofs of the houses are visible. Its circumference is nine thousand -and sixty paces. In form it is a pentagon, extremely strong, worthy -of being a work of Ferhád, with forty-one towers, and eight hundred -battlements altogether. The number of the houses is not known to me. -There are magazines, cisterns, and a road cut in the rock, leading down -to the water, called Chapán Yolí, of three thousand and seven steps. It -has no market-place (Charshú), or market (Bazár). There are four iron -gates looking to the east. In the castle is a mosque built by Sultán -Ilderím, and a marvelously deep dungeon, resembling the pit of hell; -and seventy cannons, but of no great calibre, as it is not a frontier -fortress. This castle has six wonderful caverns, where the rich -inhabitants hid their valuable effects in the time of the Anatolian -rebellions of Kara Yazijí, and Kara Sáid. - -Timúr besieged this fortress with an innumerable army for the space -of seven months, and was obliged to retire in confusion. Though it is -situated in the midst of the province, yet a commander (Dizdár) and -a garrison is appointed, lest rebels should gain possession of it. -The lower castle is built on the banks of the river Túzánlí, a small -castle, whose circumference is not known to me. It has three gates, the -first opens towards the Kiblah, Karánlik Kapú; the second Ma’adenos -Kapú, looks in the same direction; and the third, Meidán Kapú, to the -west; from whence a great bridge leads to Gok-medresse, on the opposite -side of the town. The gate Serkíz leads over a wooden bridge to the -mosque of Gháríblar. The number of mosques, palaces, and houses are -six hundred. The river Túzánlí, which passes through the town, issues -from the mountains of the same name above Tokát, passes by Eskí, -Aine-bazár, Kargol, the castle of Túrhál, Chengellí-bíl, Sárikúsún, the -bridge of Davíkaví, Chapán, through the pass of Ferhád to Amasia, where -it joins the river Chekerek, opposite the great stone bridge. This -river springs from the lake of Ladek, comes from Súliova, and joins -the Tuzánlí near Amasia as aforesaid. It is vulgarly called Yava; the -proverb, “Tokát defiles it, Amasia drinks it,” is applied to it because -it flows from Tokát to Amasia. After it has passed Amasia it is called -Chehár Shenbesú (Wednesday’s water), and after irrigating many fields, -it disembogues in the Black Sea, on the western side of Samsún. Below -the village Chehár Shenbeh it is joined by several springs, and below -Nígissár, in the province of Sivás, it receives the river Kerkúk; thus -it reaches Samsún, after having increased its stream by those of seven -other rivers. The town of Amasia is built on both sides of this river, -and on the hills and mountains bordering on it. A bridge worth seeing, -the work of Sultán Bayazíd, crosses it. This river comes to Amasia from -the south, running northward, and turning many mills and water-wheels; -which at Amasia are not less to be praised than those of Hama and -Adana. Amasia is divided into forty-eight quarters of Moslíms, and -five of Christians; there are altogether five thousand houses, besides -palaces. - -The Seraï of the Sultán is situated on the banks of the river, -surrounded by delightful gardens, curious trees, and many seats; it -is cultivated by a master gardener (Usta), and fifty gardeners, who -wear yellow caps. The Seraï of Mahommed Páshá is close to the mosque; -within the castle is the Seraï of Sultán Bayazíd, and many others, -faced with brick; there are altogether two hundred and forty mosques. -Among them is the mosque of Bayazíd II. In his youth Bayazíd was first -made governor of Trebisonde, and then of Amasia; his father, Mahommed -II, having died at Máldepeh, he went to Constantinople to ascend the -throne, but gratefully remembering that he was made Emperor at Amasia, -he freed the inhabitants from all contributions, and built this mosque, -one hundred feet square: the mihráb, minber, and mahfil of the Muëzzins -are of elegant workmanship. The cupola is not very large, but adorned, -like those of other imperial mosques, with circles for suspending lamps -and other ornaments. The chronograph on the gate opposite the Kiblah -gives the date of its building, 892 (1486), it has two minarehs, and in -the middle of the court-yard a water-basin for ablutions. The mosque -of Kúchúk Aghá, opposite the river Chekerek; the mosque of Bayazíd -Páshá, covered with lead, and paved with marble; the mosque of Mohammed -Páshá, covered with lead, and one minareh; the mosque of Khizr Elias, -a large building, covered with lead; the mosque of Mekkeme, built of -wood, as also is the minareh; the mosque Fethie, formerly a Christian -church and convent; the mosque of Yogúrch Páshá, who was Vezír to -Mohammed I.; the mosque of Gokmedresse, covered with lead, but without -a minareh; besides a great number of Mesjids. There are ten colleges, -the most elegant of which is that of Sultán Bayazíd; nineteen houses -for reading the Korán; at that of Sultán Bayazíd there are more than -three hundred Háfizes (who know the Korán by heart); ten houses of -tradition; and two hundred schools for boys, some of which are covered -with lead. There are forty convents for Dervishes, the best of which -is that of Jelál-ud-dín Rúmí, and ten dining establishments; at that -of Sultán Bayazíd all the poor dine twice a day. Of the Caravánseraïs, -that of Sultán Bayazíd is covered with lead, as is also that of Bairám -Páshá, the Vezír of Murad IV. The Kháns are lead-covered, with iron -gates, besides those for merchants (Khoja), there are those for single -men (Mújerred); these last have their own gatekeepers, and are shut up -every night, so that those who do not come home before the hour for -closing are not let in, and those who are within cannot go out till the -gates are thrown open in the morning, when every person goes to his -work. - -In the market-place (Charshú) there are altogether one thousand and -sixty shops, and one hundred and sixty different workmen, with vaults -of stone like the market place of Brússa. A Bezestán with four iron -gates. The market place is paved with large slabs. There are many -distinguished inhabitants. - - -_Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c._ - -The inhabitants are a set of merry jolly fellows, and are all red-faced -and fresh-coloured; their occupation may be thus described;—first, -the Zaims and Timariots and the Páshá’s court; secondly, the divines, -judges, and professors; the Imáms, Khatíbs, Muëzzins, &c.; and -thirdly, the merchants and handicraftsmen. There are many well-bred -highly-finished gentlemen, who speak with great eloquence, but the -dialect of the common people is harsh. The wealthy dress in sable -pelisses and Ferráji of cloth, the middle classes in Bogassin. The -women are Turkish beauties, with well-ranged teeth and words. - -From the district of Kághla comes a sort of corn called Dárdevedíshí, -of which most excellent bread is made, called Levásha, Kerde, Chákil; -there are forty sorts of pears, ruby-coloured cherries, and seven sorts -of grapes and quinces, of which a far-famed _robb_ is made, and sent to -Princes as a present. - -Sherbet of must, scented with musk; sherbet of quince jelly, which, -on account of its heating quality, is as useful in medicine as terra -sigillata. The sherbets called Khardalie, Búldáklí, are exported into -Persia; a pleasant white beverage. - -The workmen are clever in all kind of handicraft, but the tailors -and cotton beaters are the most famous, as well as the barbers and -confectioners. In the time of the Amalekites, the river Túzánlí did -not pass through the town; it was Ferhád, the lover of Shirín, who cut -these mountains like cheese, and the traces of his work is yet to be -seen in the mountains on the west side of the town. - -The situation of this town in a deep valley, and on the banks of a -river, contributes to the mildness of the air, and the riches of its -cultivation. The windows of the houses look to the west and north; the -winter is temperate. The water which Ferhád carried to the town from -the opposite mountains is delightful; it is distributed from house to -house. - - -_Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs._ - -There are seventy different walks; the first is that of the bloody -fountain (Kánlí bínar;) it is so called because a wicked old woman -having brought false news to Ferhád here, of Sherín’s death, he threw -his hatchet into the air, and himself down the precipice, by which -means he was killed. - -The tomb of Ottoman Princes, who are buried in the cypress wood, -their names I do not know; the tomb of Zekeria Khalvetí, he was the -first disciple of Pír Elias, and is buried near the saddlers’ shops -(Serrájiler). The pilgrimage of the Sultán of the faith, the Simorgh -of truth Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman Ben Hassám-ud-dín Gomishlí-zadeh, he is -the nephew of Pír Elias, and was a dervish of the order of Khalvetí, -of whom many miracles are related. The three Princes, sons of Murad -II. having visited this Sheikh, two of them kissed his hand, and the -third, Mohammed, kissed his feet. The Sheihk took the handkerchief -(Reda) he wore on his neck, tied it round the neck of Prince Mohammed, -and admonished him to take care of the Moslíms at Constantinople. -This Sheikh has left many poems on divine love; his poetical name -is Hossámí. His tomb is near that of Pír Elias, in the convent of -Yakúb Páshá. Molla Kassem Khatíb Ben Yakúb, who was born and buried -at Amasia, one of the deepest of learned divines. Molla Ala-ud-dín -Ilíkámi, born and buried at Amasia. Molla Abd-ul-jebbár Ajemí, near the -tomb of the Ottoman Princes. Molla Abd-ur-rahman Ben Ali Ben Moyed, -born and buried at Amasia. The Sultán of poets, Munírí Efendí, born -and buried at Amasia, he improvisated Arabic, Turkish, and Persian -poems, and was one of the Vezírs of Prince Ahmed, when Governor of -Amasia. The excellent female poet, Mihrmáh Khatún, descending from -Pír Elias’s family, was a virtuous lady like Rábie Adúye, who knew -seventy scientific books by heart, and beat the most learned men in -disputing: her true name being Mihrmáh, she took the name of Mihrí for -her poetical surname; she left a Diván, and some theological treatises, -and was buried near her grandfather, Sheikh Pír Elias. - -Pilgrimage of the Pole of Poles, the Sheikh, _par excellence_, the -cream of saints, the column of the Princes, Sheikh Pír Elias. He -was one of the Sheikhs of Sultán Bayazíd I., and went with Timúr to -Shirván, from whence he returned to Amasia, his birth-place, where he -is buried on an elevated spot, called Sevádie, near Amasia. He is famed -for many miracles, one of the most celebrated is, that when his corpse -was washed, he straightened the hand which had been placed crooked by -the washing-man. His mausoleum, with all the foundations belonging to -it, was erected by Bayazíd II., son of Sultán Mohammed II. Strangers -and poor persons are here most liberally entertained. Praise be to -God, that I was so happy as to visit it, and to finish a complete -lecture of the Korán there. The pilgrimage of Kelíj Arslán, a Sheikh of -the Mevlevís, buried in the convent of that order. The pilgrimage of -Ferhád; he is buried on the top of the mountain which he cut for the -love of Sherín, and the old woman who was the cause of his death is -buried between him and his mistress. The thistles and thorns which grow -on the tomb of the old woman prevent the flowers uniting, which grow on -the tombs of Ferhád and Sherín. - -There are a great number of pilgrimages of great and holy men, but -I visited only those I have given an account of, and at each, in -honour of their souls, said the Súra Yass, asking for their spiritual -assistance. On the third day of our stay the clarions of departure -sounded; we took leave of our friends, and travelled the same day -through the mountains of Chengelli-bíl, reaching, after six hours -march, the station of Kánlí-bínár, which is the spot where Ferhád -killed himself. It is a pleasant place, with a luxuriant spring of most -delightful water. We watered our horses here, and pitched our tents, -and continued our road next morning towards the north for seven hours. -We arrived at the village of Ezíl, a district belonging to Amasia, -three hundred houses with gardens, a khán, a mosque, and a bath. - - -_The Town and Castle of Nígíssár._ - -The next day we reached, in eight hours time, the seat of the -Dánishmend family, the old town and stronghold of Nígíssár. Its builder -was a Greek Emperor; it was conquered in the year 476 (1083) by Sultan -Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, and became the seat of this -dynasty; their second residence was Amasia. The Seljúks, who anxiously -wished to possess it, laid siege to it several times without success. -Its name is a corruption of Níg-hissár, the good castle. It is an -ancient, strong-built castle, on a limestone rock, five hundred and -sixty paces in circumference, of an hexagon shape: the three gates face -the east, west, and south; within the castle are three hundred houses -and magazines, and a mosque, which was formerly a church. The garrison -is small in number, because it is not a frontier fortress; they only -keep watch against rebels; the lower suburb is a large town, but its -streets being narrow, and going continually up and down hill, it is -with difficulty that a horseman can make his way to the market-place, -and for a waggon to do so is out of the question. This town belongs to -the khass of the Páshá of Sivás, the residence of a Súbashí of seven -hundred purses’ revenue, the judge is appointed with one hundred and -fifty aspers, and there is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, and Kiaya-yerí. -The town comprises forty-three quarters, with sixty mihráb (Jámí and -Mesjids), of which nine are Friday mosques, wherein the Khutbe is -performed. The mosque of the castle was formerly a church, an ancient -place of worship. To the mosque of Melek Ghází, the visitor descends by -five or six steps; it has a slender, thin, well-proportioned minareh: -its equal is not to be seen elsewhere. The mosque of Chaplakáneh -is faced with bricks. At the west end of the town is the mosque of -Júregí; outside of the castle is the mosque of Khalíl Efendí, just -finished, faced with brick; also outside of the castle is the mosque -of the Muftí. The houses of the town, in the valley, and on the hill, -ascending one above the other, are two thousand seven hundred in -number, faced either with earth or bricks. There are three baths, viz., -that of the Muftí in the castle, that of Chaplakháneh outside of the -castle, and that of the Infidels, also outside of the castle, besides -forty-five private baths in the palaces. - - -_The Hot-spring of Nigíssár._ - -It is a small hot-bath outside of the town to the south; the women -and boys of the town wash their clothes here; it is a well-flavoured -water, has no sulphurous smell, and is useful as a remedy in leprous -and arthritic diseases. It is visited every year, in the month of July, -by a great number of people, who amuse themselves for a month, and -then return to their homes. There is a college, and house for reading -of the Korán and tradition, but no kitchen for the poor; there are -seventy schools for boys. The inhabitants are an honest set of people, -with some beautiful women amongst them. There are seven convents, the -first of which is the great convent of Chevregí; that of Elias-dedeh -is not less famous. There are a great number of springs and fountains, -which move as many corn and fulling mills, also five hundred elegant -shops, but no Bezestán. The narrow street, which leads down from the -castle, is lined on both sides with shoemakers’ shops; the principal -streets are paved with large slabs. The inhabitants are fresh-coloured -lively looking Turks, who pay great attention to strangers. Among the -eatables, pomegranates are much famed; they each weigh an occa, and -some even as much as five hundred dirhems, and are of the size of a -man’s head. The cheese, Kufte and Passdagh of this place are famous; -the environs are laid out in rice plantations (Cheltuk). The Black Sea -is two journies distance from this place. - - -_Pilgrimages of Nígíssár._ - -The conqueror of Nígíssár, Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, is -buried near the castle gate. God’s mercy be upon him! Chevregí-boyúk -Sultán lies near the great mosque, beneath a cupola. We left this town -and advanced towards the east, through mountains and forests. After -six hours march we reached Kariebásh Chiftlik, the frontier of Sivás, -here bordering the governorships of Erzerúm, with two hundred Armenian -houses, and a ziamet. The next day, as soon as we trod the ground of -Erzerúm, we offered up a sacrifice of two hundred and seven camels, -and the inhabitants of Erzerúm, with the Kiaya of the Chaúshes, the -Defter-Emíní, the Chaúshlar-Emíní, the Timár Defterdárí, and other -gentlemen of the Diván at their head, came to meet us with presents. - - -_The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm._ - -It is situated in Azerbeíján and Armenia, and, according to some, -erected by Núrshiván; but the truth is that it was by Erzenbaí Ben -Softár Ben Kúndúz, of the dynasty of the White Sheep, whose ancestors -had come from Mahán, and built the castle of Akhlát, on the borders -of the lake Wán; they are all buried at Akhlát, and the ancestors of -the Ottomans, Ertoghrúl and Súleimán, derive their lineage from them. -Uzún Hassan, having become master of Azerbeiján, built the castle -called Hassan, after his name, at Erzerúm. Envious of the conquest of -Constantinople by Mohammed II., he began to trespass on the frontiers, -and to violate the peace. Mohammed II., in defiance of him, conquered -Trebisonde, and defeated him with twenty thousand men in the field of -Terjeán. With great difficulty we traversed the rude pass of Iskefser, -and in three hours we reached Shákhna, an Armenian village of two -hundred houses, where the Armenian girls are wonderfully pretty. From -Constantinople to this place we had constantly ascended towards the -east, and all the rivers were flowing from that direction towards us; -this will show on what high ground Erzerúm is situated. From Shákhna we -crossed the Governorship of Erzerúm, which was our allotted province, -in different directions to the south, north, east, and west, and shall -now describe the stations of these our excursions. - -Tekine is a village in the jurisdiction of Iskefser, with one hundred -houses, a ziámet. Five hours further on is the village of Chádár, of -one hundred houses, in the jurisdiction of Koilí. The castle of Koilí -was built by Usún Hassan, from fear of Mohammed II.; it belongs to -the sanjak Shuban Kara Hissár, in the province of Erzerúm; it is -situated on a high rock, and is one thousand three hundred paces in -circumference. Inside are one hundred houses and magazines, an iron -gate opens to the west; it has a commander and seventy men; the suburb -outside consists of one hundred houses, a mosque and some shops. The -castle saluted us with seventeen guns, and the inhabitants met us -with presents; they slaughtered ten sheep as a sacrifice, for which -they received ten ducats. Two stations north of this village, on the -shore of the Black Sea, is Baihssa-bazárí, which a man on foot may -reach in one day. In the reign of Ahmed I. the Cossacks of Oczakov -pillaged this place: the environs being gardens and flowery meadows -are extremely favourable to bees, and the honey of Koilí-hissár, -scented with musk and ambergris, is famous; the inhabitants are a -turbulent set of people. We descended a deep precipice, and after seven -hours reached the village of Doirán. The river here issues from the -mountains of Kerkúk, is joined by several streams from the mountains of -Koilí-hissár, and below Chehárshenbe by the river of that name, which -passes Amasia. The Kerkúk is an excellent freshwater river. The village -of Doirán, situated on its banks, in the valley of Akshár, consists -of one hundred houses. We now went towards the east four hours, to -Anderes on the frontier of Shuban Kara-hissár, in the valley of Akshár, -a village of one hundred houses. Having marched two hours towards the -east, we reached the Chiftlik of Tabán Ahmed Agha, where the Páshá -was presented with an Arabian horse, and with twenty horses for his -suite, three thousand sheep, seven strings of camels, seven of mules, -and ten purses; it was a great festival, worthy of the Ottoman court -itself. In recompense for this great festival, the giver of it, Ahmed -Agha, was imprisoned in the Kiaya’s room, and bought his life by the -payment of forty purses and seventy camels, by which opportunity I also -got a horse. Two hours further on lies the village of Ezbeder, in the -territory of Shuban Kara-hissár, an Armenian village surrounded with -gardens. Four hours further we reached the valley of Tilismát Za’aba; -the torrent of Tilismát Za’aba issues from the neighbouring mountains, -and falls into the river Akhlát; there are one hundred houses here -built upon rocky ground; the subjects here are all Armenians. A cave -is still shown in which there was formerly a treasure, guarded by two -swords, which were continually moving up and down, a mast has many -times been put beneath them and instantly cut through; a magician has -since got possession of the treasure, but the cave still remains to be -seen. There is, besides, another talisman somewhere hereabout, but I -have not seen it. Five hours from hence is the village Yakúb, on the -frontier of Shuban Kara; three hours further on, that of Korkún Kiassí, -and in one hour more, the village of Barú; after which we came through -the pass of Tekmán, which is closed by the winter for seven or eight -months. After having got through it with much difficulty, we reached -Kázíoghlíkoí, an Armenian village. Four hours further is the castle -of Shírán, on the frontier of Shuban Kara; in four hours the village -of Kara Jalar; in five hours the village of Sáríchalar, inhabited by -Moslíms and Armenians; in eight hours the village of Sálút, the pass -of which we traversed with considerable trouble, and for the space of -five hours were crossing the great plain of Kerkúk. At the end of this -plain is the village of Genj Mohammed Agha, with two hundred houses -and a mosque, on the frontier of the district of Shuban Kara-hissár; -five hours to the east is the village of Keremlí, inhabited by Moslíms -and Armenians; opposite to it, on a hill, lies the Castle of Dermerí, -built in the reign of Sultán Ahmed from fear of the rebels; it is a -small castle with a gate to the north, without commander and garrison. -Here the Páshá made an excursion (Ilghár), with three hundred horsemen, -and we arrived, at the end of twelve hours, at Chághir Kánlí Sultán, -who was a great Sheikh in the time of Sultán Mohammed II. His tomb -is adorned with several lamps (chirághdán), candelabras (shemidán), -censers (búkhúrdán), and vases for sprinkling rose-water (gulábdán). It -is a reverential place, where prayers are put up to Heaven. I visited -it, and read the Súra Yass there; through the sanctity of this saint -the country abounds with cattle. Two Chiftliks are exempted by Imperial -diploma from all taxes; the village consists of three hundred houses, -with a mosque and a convent, the dervishes of which go bareheaded and -barefooted, and wear their hair long. The people carry wooden clubs -in their hands, some of them crooked sticks (litúi). They all came to -wait on the Páshá, and to exhibit the grants of their foundation. The -Páshá asked from whence they dated their immunity, and they invited -him to visit their place of devotion (Sema’ákháneh). We followed them -to a large place where a great fire was lighted of more than forty -waggon-loads of wood, and forty victims sacrificed. They assigned a -place for the Páshá at a distance from the fire, and began to dance -round it, playing their drums and flutes, and crying “Hú!” and “Allah!” -This circular motion being continued for an hour, about an hundred of -these dervishes naked, took their children by the hand, and entered -the fire, the flames of which towered like the pile of Nimrod, crying -“O all constant! O all vivifying!” At the end of half an hour, they -came out of the fire, without the least hurt except the singeing of -their hair and beards, some of them retiring to their cells, instead -of coming before the Páshá, who remained much astonished. They then -gave a feast to the Páshá, which was even greater than Ahmed Tabán’s -feast. It was surprising that they were enabled to prepare such a -feast in so short a time, as the Páshá had arrived suddenly, and by a -by-road. The Páshá confirmed their immunities, and gave them a present -of one hundred ducats. In sixteen hours more we came to the plain of -Terján. The mosque of Sultán Hassan is a praiseworthy monument of Uzún -Hassan, but ít stands alone here. Uzún Hassan, who liked the situation, -intended to build a town here bearing his name, but Sultán Mohammed II. -destroyed all his projects by the famous battle, which was fought on -this plain; it was a scene of great slaughter, even now the peasants -find bones and hidden treasures when ploughing the field. We crossed -this plain hastily, and in eight hours reached the village, where -the Kiaya of the Chaúshes had provided a great feast for the Páshá, -and presented him with five horses, five purses, and three Georgian -slaves. At the end of five hours we reached the village of Púlúr, and -in four hours that of Terjánlí Alí Agha, an Armenian village of three -hundred houses, a mosque and a bath. Alí Agha gave a grand repast here, -accompanied with a present of ten horses, ten purses, ten strings of -camels, and five of mules. We went from hence nine hours further, to -the village of Mama Khatún, in the district of Erzerúm, consisting of -one hundred Mussulman houses; it is a free ziámet. - - -_Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún._ - -This lady is buried beneath a cupola, at the foot of a rock; she was -the daughter of one of the Princes of the Aúk Koyúnlí, and lies buried -here with all her children, but without any keeper attached to her -mausoleum, she is buried in a marble coffin; near it is a mosque and -a bath. Six hours further is the village of Habs, at the western end -of the plain of Erzerúm; it consists of one hundred and fifty Armenian -houses. All the principal men of Erzerúm came to this place with -presents to meet the Páshá’s Diván. We proceeded with a large retinue -for the space of five hours, to the hot-bath, which is also situated -at the western end of the plain of Erzerúm, and where every year some -person or other is drowned. It is a very useful bath, but too warm to -be used without a mixture of cold water. Some of the former princes -have built a dressing-room here (jámeghán), and a basin (havúz): the -climate is pleasant. The Motesellem Mustafa Agha, here presented the -Páshá with an Arabian racehorse, caparisoned with jewels, a sable -pelisse, a quiver, and a sword set with jewels, a dagger and a girdle, -and ten racehorses, mounted by ten Georgian boys, all armed. His three -hundred and seventy slaves were clad in showy dresses, like so many -waiting youths in Paradise. He gave also to me, poor Evliyá, a sable -fur, some cloth, and one hundred piastres, because I had been master -to his son for some time. Our arrival at this hot-bath was exactly -the seventieth journey we had made since we left Constantinople, and -an entrance in grand procession was organized, which outrivalled in -brilliancy those of the greatest Vezírs. Indeed, the Páshá was a -Commander-in-Chief (Serdár), who by Imperial rescript (Khattí Sheríf) -was allowed even to use the Túghra, or cypher of the Sultán. The troops -of Erzerúm paraded on both sides of the way from this hot bath, which -is six hours distance from Erzerúm, up to the gates of the town; with -cuirasses and casques, bearing long lances, their horses being adorned -with knots of sea-horses’ bristles, and various other trappings. The -Páshá was surrounded by eight body-guards (Shátir), who wore golden -caps on their heads, carried battle-axes in their hands, had golden -girdles, and splendid caftáns, walking like the peacocks of Paradise. -On the right and left of the Páshá walked the Matarají-bashí (keeper -of the leaden bottle, which contains the water for purification), and -the Tufenkjí-bashí, or head of the fuzileers, bearing a water-bottle -set with jewels, and muskets of costly workmanship. The Páshá passed -between two lines, greeting both sides, and the people returned his -salute. Four hundred Ulemás all clad in armour were headed by the -Imám, and I, poor Evliya, as Múëzzin. Behind us followed the treasurer -and the standard-bearer, with the eightfold Turkish music. The Tátár -troops, the Muteferrika, the chamberlains, passed, all clad in armour. -As soon as the procession drew near Erzerúm, the fortress began to -salute by firing the great guns from the highest tower, called Kessik -Kala’á, as a selám aleikum, after which the Janissaries fired the guns -of the inner castle, and so continued during the procession. But when -the Páshá himself entered the gate of Erzenján, the six hundred and -seventy guns, which compose the artillery of the fortress, were all -discharged at once, and the skies were rent and the earth trembled. -Seven regiments of Janissaries lined the way from the gates of the town -to the gates of the palace, ready to salute the Páshá, who, as soon as -he had entered the palace, was saluted once more by a general discharge -of the artillery on the walls. Many hundred victims were sacrificed, -and a splendid repast equal to that of Mádí Kerb followed. After dinner -the music played, and a diván was held, wherein, after the decision -of many lawsuits, the twenty-seven Aghas of the castle, those of the -Janissaries, artillerymen, armourers, &c., were invested with seventy -brilliant robes of honour, and Molla Chelebí Efendí, the relation of -Emír Bokhara, with a green sable pelisse. I received a caftán in my -degree of clerk of the custom-house. The governor then most graciously -assigned me a lodging in the palace built by Tekelí Mustafa Páshá, -where I lived quietly, sometimes keeping company with the Governor, and -at others discharging the functions of clerk of the custom-house. I had -full opportunity of acquiring the most perfect knowledge of the state -of Erzerúm, as I was allowed to see all the kanúns, registers, and -protocols. - - -_Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm._ - -It was wrested out of the hands of Kara Yússúf, the son of Uzún -Hassan, by Sultán Mohammed II. The khass of the Vezír is fixed at one -million, two hundred and fourteen thousand six hundred aspers; the -whole province is divided into twelve sanjaks. The officers are a -Defterdár of the treasury, a Kiaya of the Defterdár of the Timárs, a -Kiaya and Inspector of the Chaúshes, an Alaï-Beg, and a Cherí-bashí. -The sanjaks are as follows:—Kara-hissár, Akií, Pássin, Siper, Hassan, -Melázgerd, Tekmán, Kúrúján, Túrtúm, Mujtekerd, Mámreván, and Erzerúm. -The khass of the Defterdár of the treasury amounts to one million and -fifty-two thousand nine hundred aspers; that of the kiaya of the fiefs -to fifty thousand, and that of the Defterdár of the fiefs to twenty -thousand two hundred. There are fifty-six ziamets, and two thousand two -hundred and nineteen timárs; the feudal militia number five thousand -two hundred and seventy-nine swords, and the Jebellís, in time of -war, twelve thousand men, besides two thousand men who are furnished -by the khass of the Páshá. The soldiers of Erzerúm are stout, brave -fellows. The judge is a Molla, with a revenue of five hundred aspers, -with three subordinate Naíbs or Vicars. An Agha of the Janissaries, -an Agha of the artillerymen, and one of the armourers, who are all -in the interior fortress. Abasa Páshá, the famous rebel, one night -surprised this fortress, and put the whole garrison of Janissaries to -the sword, except the Agha, who was absent that night by accident, and -consequently escaped. Abaza remained in rebellious possession of it -for ten years, in defiance of seven Vezírs, who marched against him -with the power of absolute command, such as Cherkess Mohammed Dishlín -Hossein Páshá, Timúr Kázík Khalíl Páshá, &c. but owing to the strength -of the fortress, they were unable to reduce the rebel, until Khosrew -Páshá assumed the command; he took Abaza prisoner, and carried him with -him into the presence of Sultán Murád IV. He obtained a general pardon, -and was first made Governor of Bosnia, afterwards of Bude, and finally -of Ozakov, which he retained up to the time of the expedition against -Eriván. The troops rebelling at that moment, called loudly for Abaza -Páshá, which, coming to the ears of the Sultán, he ordered him to be -killed, and buried in the tomb of Murád Páshá, near the market of the -ink-makers. He escaped, however, and wandered for some time in Arabia -and Persia, re-appearing at Erzerúm the same year that we came there. -I saw his blood even before my own door, because Silihdár Súleimán -Páshá cut his head off on the arrival of our Motessellím, or Páshá’s -substitute. Since the rebellion of Abaza, the greatest attention -has been paid to this important post by the government; it has been -strengthened by an immense artillery, and six companies, so that the -whole garrison amounts to two thousand five hundred men, a commander -of the castle, Dizdár, and twelve Aghas. In the inner castle are one -hundred and eighty cannons, and at the gate of Tabríz, in the centre -of the two fortresses, are twelve large cannons, placed there by Murád -IV. The fortress is situated at a gun’s shot from Mount Egerlí; on the -north and north-west extends the plain of Erzerúm, two miles square, a -fertile flowery field, covered with villages. - - -_Description of the great river Euphrates._ - -The great river Euphrates flows through the middle of the plain of -Erzerúm. Its source is at the bottom of the pilgrimage of Dúmlibaba, -on the east side of Georgia; it flows towards the west, causing in its -way many marshes and canals, passes before the village of Kián, the -castle of Kemáni, through the Yaila of a thousand lakes, inhabited by -the Curds Izúlí, joins the Murád (the name of which it assumes), and -passes like a sea in the neighbourhood of Malatia to Samosat, Kala’aí -Rúm, Birejík, the bridge Búmbúja, Bálissa, Ja’aber, Rakie, Rahbie, -Karkessia, Ania, Hita, Ebyár, Takúk, Helle, and Kúfa; it is joined at -Kaverna by the Shatt-ul-arab (Tigris), and thus becomes an immensely -large river, which is ascended by Indian ships from Bassra; the whole -extent, with all its windings, is four hundred farsangs; it passes -four hundred towns and villages. In the plain of Erzerúm its water is -very sweet and palatable, well worth being recorded in the Korán by -the verse:—“And we gave you to drink of the water of the Euphrates.” -Besides the Euphrates no less than seventy-two rivers descend from -the mountains of Erzerúm and Diárbekr. Makrisí says, that the Tigris -and Euphrates were dug out by Daniel with the assistance of Angels. -The Tigris is the Shatt, which rises east of Diárbekr, between Torjíl -and Miafarekein, receives an infinite number of springs, and goes to -Hossní Kaifa and Mossul. This river unites the upper and lower Zarb, -and becomes a tremendous and roaring stream which is called the mad -Zarb. It was of the river Euphrates that the prophet is reported to -have said:—“O inhabitants of Cufa, your river Euphrates takes up two -channels of Paradise.” Imám Ja’afer is reported to have said in praise -of this river:—“If the inhabitants of Irák and Rúm were acquainted with -all the excellent qualities of the Euphrates, they would build a wall -on each side of it. Whoever bathes therein three times, may be certain -of being cured of many diseases.” Another tradition on the Euphrates -is reported by Abúhoreirí, as follows:—“The last day shall not arrive -till the Euphrates flows not from a mountain of gold, on which men are -killing each other; ninety-nine shall be killed out of each hundred, -and yet every one shall say, ‘perhaps it is I who may be saved.’” The -Euphrates and Orontis (A’assí), are the only two rivers which touch -the frontier of the Holy Land. The Euphrates freezes in the winter so -that during two months many caravans cross it, but it never freezes -south of Erzerúm; it is a sweet clear water, and a great comfort to the -inhabitants of Erzerúm, though they have the spring, called the Source -of Paradise, within their walls. - - -_Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm._ - -It consists of two castles of a square form, the distance between the -two walls is seventy paces; the ditch is eighty paces broad, and twenty -deep, but, on the side of the Gurjí and Erzenján gates, the ditch is -not so deep: the whole circumference is eighty thousand paces, and it -has three gates, that to the west is the gate of Erzenján, where the -ditch is crossed by a bridge; the second to the east, and the third -to the north, are likewise entered by crossing bridges. The first, -which is the Georgian gate (Gúrji), is double, like that of Erzenján; -but that of Tabríz, as it is close to the walls of the inner castle, -is only a single one. The guns are all pointed towards the quarters -of the town Dáragháj and Gumishlí Kunbed. Within the outer castle is -an immense tower reaching to the skies, known by the name of Kessik -Kulle, on the top of which is a high wooden Koshk; as it is one hundred -cubits high, ten guns pointed from thence in all directions, intercept -even the flight of birds. The height of the wall of the inner castle -is seventy cubits; the other walls are but from forty to fifty cubits -high; there are two hundred and ten strong towers, and two thousand and -eighty battlements round the castle, and seventeen hundred houses, all -covered with earth (_terrasses_) in the ancient style, so also are all -the villages which I saw in the whole government of Erzerúm. - - -_Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm._ - -The palace of the Páshá has no less than one hundred and ten rooms of -various sizes, for the Diván and Koshks; of the last, the two finest -are those of Tayár Páshá, and of Benlí Páshá, with a bath and a fine -fountain. On the outside, above the stables, are the rooms for the -watchmen; the court-yard is a spacious place where they play the jeríd. -It has two gates, one is that of the Diván, opening on the great road, -the other is a secret gate, always kept shut. Erzerúm contains seventy -quarters of Moslíms, and seven of Infidels. There are no Armenians, -Copts, or Jews; if any make their appearance they run the risk of being -killed. In the quarter called the Source of Paradise the houses are -built of stone; most of them are only one story high, because the air -is sharp and the winter severe. It has been known to snow here for ten -or eleven months in the year, which is the reason that the greatest -part of the houses are built of one story, like a bath, with windows, -and a felt door on the top. - - -_Of the Mosques._ - -There are seventy-seven mihrábs; the oldest is the great mosque inside -the gate of Tabríz, with a minareh in the ancient style, built by the -Princes of the Akche Koyúnlí, two hundred feet square. The mimber and -mihráb are also in the ancient style; it is supported by two hundred -columns of fir-tree, and the cupola is also of wood; on one side of the -mosque the biscuit for the garrison of Eriván is kept. On the east side -of this mosque, close to the wall, is an old college with two minarehs; -some say that they were built by the Princes of the Akche Koyúnlí, -while others ascribe them to Uzún Hassán; in short, it is an old -prayer-place, which has been cruelly damaged in the different sieges -of Erzerúm, and never been repaired because it was never endowed. -Within the gates of Tabríz are two tall minarehs, the shining porcelain -of which dazzles the eyes of beholders; tumblers exhibit their skill -on ropes extended between these two high minarehs. Sultán Murad IV. -converted the ruined mosque into a cannon foundry. God grant it may -be repaired! The mosque of Lále Mustafa Páshá, before the gate of the -Seraï on the great road, built by the grand Vezír of Sultán Súleimán. -Its cupola is built in the style of those of Constantinople, eighty -feet square, and covered with lead. Its mihráb, mimber, and mahfíl are -very simple. Outside is a stone bench, but the courtyard is narrow. It -is the work of the great architect Sinán. Its sheikh is Wání Efendí, -one of the most learned divines, and famed commentators, a second -Na’amán, an eloquent man, whose renown is spread all over the empire; -its Imám is a high-minded priest, who knows the whole Korán by heart, -whose reading plunges those who listen into the depths of meditation. -He is a most perfect musician, and is called the Imám of the -Janissaries; and if the Muëzzin, a second Belál (the Prophet’s Muëzzin) -ascends the minareh, and proclaims with David’s voice Mahommed’s shout, -“God is great, God is great,” all hearers begin to tremble, every -person leaves his business or repast, and hastens to the mosque. All -the inhabitants of Erzerúm are devout, pious men. Ja’afer Efendi’s -mosque is a pleasing new built mosque, with a high cupola and gate, a -courtyard and a spouting fountain; the windows are guarded with iron -gratings. In the inner castle is an old mosque much frequented. Outside -of the gate of Erzenján is the Páshá’s mosque, covered with lead, and -outside of the gate of Tabríz, on the edge of the ditch, is the mosque -of Mohammed Páshá, with one minareh, and with a terrace. Besides these -great mosques (Jami’í), there are also seventy-seven mesjíds, one -hundred and ten schools for boys, convents, and houses for reading the -Korán. - - -_Fountains._ - -On the market-place, is the Source of Paradise, Jennet-bunár; and -outside of the gate of Erzenján is the Camel fountain; on the fountain -of Mustafa Páshá on the edge of the ditch, outside the gate of Tabríz -is this inscription from the Korán saying:—“there are flowing -fountains in it (Paradise).” There are seventy Se-bílkháneh, or places -where water is distributed. - - -_Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets._ - -The most elegant bath is that of Ja’afer Efendí, there are seventy -kháns, some of them for Caravans (Caravanseraï); some for merchants -(Kháns, _par excellence_); some for unmarried workmen (barracks); of -the latter there are ten, where foreign workmen find accommodation. The -Bezestán has eight hundred shops, four gates and a stone cupola. The -markets of the saddlers, goldsmiths, button-makers and tailors are very -elegant. The mint is near the gate of Erzenján. - - -_Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c._ - -The inhabitants are all Turkomans and Armenian kurds, of lively -complexion, middle size, stout, strong in youth, and vigorous in old -age. From ten to twenty-five years of age they are extremely fine, but -after that they quickly become hairy men, good natured and brave. The -principal men dress in sable furs, the Ulemás in ferrájís of cloth and -caftáns of Bogassin; the workmen wear abbas, and sometimes a caftán of -Bogassin. During three months the air is mild and pleasant; the water -is sweet and extremely wholesome for the women; whoever drinks of the -spring called the Source of Paradise in the summer, understands in its -full sense, the verse of the Korán, “Water vivifies all things.” Seeds -ripen here in sixty days, and bring forth fruit from eighty to one -hundred fold; there are seven sorts of corn, one of which is as white -as camel’s teeth. The workmanship of the tailors and goldsmiths is -very skilful. They make two kinds of pies here, one of chicken and the -other of a sort of vegetable called Cheresh; white and excellent pastry -(Chorek), white bread called Koláj, and meat roasted on stoves, &c. -Their beverages are Sherbet of Ribbes, and excellent Búza. - -The walks are the place of the Jeríd; at the mills in the meadow; -the place of Gumishlí Kunbed (the silver vault), and the Convent of -Abd-ur-rahman Ghází. - - -_Genealogies of Erzerúm._ - -Outside of the gates of the fortress on the east, west and north -sides, is the suburb, inhabited by more than thirty thousand Rayas; -on the south side, from the gate of Tabríz to that of Erzenján a wall -has been begun, had it been finished, it would have made Erzerúm an -amazingly strong fortress. Between this wall and the castle is the -suburb divided into seven quarters. The suburb of the Tabríz gate -extends from the quarters of Dáragách, and that of Dúlúkler to Gumishlí -Kunbed. The suburb of the Georgians on the north side, is the quarter -of the rich merchants; here is the custom-house where I was employed -as clerk: round it are the houses of Persian, Indian, and Chinese -merchants, next to the custom-houses of Constantinople and Smyrna, that -of Erzerúm is the most busy. The suburb of Erzenján extends, on the -eastern side of the castle-gate, from the Camel fountain to the mill -of Alí. This suburb being mostly inhabited by Armenians, there are -thirteen churches here. The Infidels wear variegated turbans, and blue -coats, and the lower classes wear felt, with coarse shoes called Chárk; -their women wrap white sheets round their heads, and the Musselmán -women wear pointed caps of gold and silver stuff, velvet trowsers and -yellow boots: they are extremely pretty, their teeth as well arranged -as their words; with their beautiful hair, dragging a thousand lovers -after them as slaves. The men are long-lived, in society may be -found many men past seventy years of age, with full use of all their -faculties. They generally speak a peculiar dialect, but their divines -and poets speak with great eloquence, and their story-tellers delight -intelligent people by their tales of Hamza, and by Chinese shades. -There are also many Santons and holy men, of whom Allahán-dede was -famous for his uxoriousness. Though the air of Erzerúm is cold, yet -its vegetables are abundant, its soil being extremely fertile, and -blessed with productions of all kind, which makes Erzerúm one of the -cheapest places in the world. Though Erzerúm has neither gardens nor -vineyards, yet it is famed for roses; some winter apples and pears -are the only fruits which are found here. Plane-trees and willows are -in abundance in all the walks and in the rose-gardens; on account of -their long winter and short summer, the sowing and harvest is over in -two months. At the time I was at Erzerúm there happened, in the month -of July, when the horses were out at grass, such a storm of lightning, -thunder, hail and snow, that all the horses broke away and ran half mad -to the neighbouring villages. The length and severity of the winter -here is explained by the following tale. They asked a Dervish “from -whence he came?” he said, “from the snow of Divine Mercy;” they asked, -“what was the name of the place;” “Erzerúm,” said the Dervish, which -may be spelled Erezolúm (cruel to man); they continued to ask “whether -he had seen any summer there.” The Dervish said, “By God, I remained -there eleven months and nine and twenty days, the people said that -summer was coming, but I did not see it. It happened, however, that a -cat, which ran over the roofs of the houses, became froze there while -in the act of running, and remained so for the space of nine months, -when the spring arriving, the cat began to thaw, cried ‘Miaú!’ and fell -down.” This tale has become a common proverb. It is really a fact, -that if a man touches a piece of iron with his wet hand during winter, -they freeze together, and cannot be separated without tearing off the -skin. I have passed forty days in the coldest weather at Assov, and -in the desert of Kipchák, but I never felt cold like this; the people -are, however, very healthy. The fruits come from Isper, Tortúm, and -Erzenján; peaches, apricots, and grapes are sold at the weight of an -occa for a para; a waggon-load of melons or water-melons may be had for -ten paras. Eatables are found here in great perfection, but there is no -wood, the mountains being naked; wood is nevertheless very cheap, as -it is brought from mountains at two journey’s distance; a mast of from -thirty to forty cubits length is sold for forty aspers. The Páshá’s -wood is brought to the town by the camels of the caravans, which arrive -at the custom-house. An agha has the inspection of the wood; the poor -people burn cow-dung. The Rayas place the stove in the middle of the -house, on the sides of which the cattle stand; the house is as warm as -a bath, and they cook their bones and offal on the fire. - - -_Description of Mount Egerlí._ - -This is a high mountain, at half an hour’s distance on the south -side of Erzerúm, its name is derived from its form, which is like a -saddle (Eger); its top is bifurcated, it abounds in medical herbs, -particularly in the Tútia flower, the scent of which perfumes the air. -Oculists come here to collect the plant Tútia, and with it cure people -who have been diseased for forty years. The odour of aromatic plants -and scented flowers fills the atmosphere. - - -_Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr._ - -I once played Jeríd at the foot of this mountain, when I fell from -the horse, and in falling said to myself, “Where art thou now, -saddle-mountain (Egerlítág)?” Having recovered my senses I mounted -another horse, and galloping full speed towards the mountain, I -ascended it. I saw on the top a large tomb, on which I first said a -fátihah, and having measured it by my steps, I found it eighty paces -in length, with two columns, which marked the situation of the head -and the feet. I was looking on the tomb, when a bad smell arose, very -disagreeable both to me and my servants, who held the horses; I looked -on the grave, and saw that the earth within it, being black and greasy, -was boiling like gruel in a pan. I then returned, and having related -my adventure in the Páshá’s company in the evening, Ja’afer Efendi of -Erzerúm, a learned and elegant writer, warned me not to visit this -place any more, because it was the grave of Balaam, the son of Baúr, -who had died an Infidel by the curse of Moses, and whose grave was -now boiling, both in winter and summer, by subterraneous fire. At the -foot of the same mountain, Abd-ur-rahman Ghází, the standard-bearer -of the prophet, lies buried. One day I ascended from the south side -of the convent about two thousand paces, when I saw on the second -top of this bifurcate mountain a tremendous dragon turned into black -stone. It measured seven hundred and seventy paces from the head to -the tail, the head looks to the field of Erzerúm, the tail to the -castle of Meláz Kerd. If snow falls on the mountains, the figure of -this black dragon is easily distinguished from the windows of the -Páshá’s palace; the circumference of its body is two hundred paces, -each of its four feet is as large as ten men put together, and its -tail is raised like a minareh. It remained whole until the reign of -Selím I. when it was broken by an earthquake, so that its fragments now -lay scattered about. The head was then split asunder, and one of the -eye-balls rolled down on the south side towards Melázguerd, where it -lies on the plain like a cupola; the left eye-ball of the same size, -yet remains in the petrified head, and is seen very distinctly with its -ears, tongue, nose, and mouth every time it snows, because no snow will -remain on this black stone, but melts away, and renders more prominent -the black colour of it. In winter the stone becomes hot, and emits -vapour; in summer it is cold, and exhales a pleasant odour. The legend -reports that this most tremendous dragon was changed into stone by the -Prophet’s standard-bearer, when it came to swallow up the inhabitants -of Erzerúm as food for its young, who were shut up in a cave of Mount -Siján, on the borders of the lake Ván. - - -_Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní._ - -His name is Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak, a native of the town -Kárzún, where he was born in the year 352 of the Hejira. In his travels -he visited Brússa and Adrianople and returned to Erzerúm, where he -settled in a great tower within the gate of Tabríz; his tomb-keeper -is a white-bearded woman, whom I saw when I visited the tomb. Shehíd -Murteza Páshá, who was shut up seven months in Eriván, is buried at -the foot of Abú Ishak Kárzúní, with Abaza Páshá, who was killed by -Dishlín Hossein Páshá. Opposite to the Páshá’s palace, in a pointed -vault, lies Sultán Kássim, the son of Mahmúd Gazneví, and near him -his sister Fírúzeh Khánum. Outside of the gate of Erzenján, above the -camel’s fountain, Jánpúland-zadeh, lies Mustafa Páshá, who after the -conquest of Eriván was killed by the grand Vezír Mohammed Pásha. He was -a protector of my father and myself. Abd-ur-rahman, the standard-bearer -of the Prophet, is buried at the foot of Egerlítágh, in a fine convent. -Outside of the gate of Tabríz, at the place called Gumishlí Kunbed (the -silver vault), because it was once faced with silver, reposes Sultán -Mahmúd, the Gasnevide, on whose marble coffin is written only the -word Mahmúd. There are besides many other pilgrimages, which I had no -opportunity of visiting. - - -_Stations of our military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík._ - -Letters of complaint arrived from Genj Alí Khán, the Khán of Eriván, -stating that the rebellious Beg of the Castle of Shúshík had broken the -peace by inroads into the Persian districts of Eriván. The sanjak Begs, -Timariots and Zaims were summoned to take the field with half of their -contingents, and to assemble at the Silver vault. The Páshá himself -fixed his tent there, with seventy banners of Segbán or Seimen and -Sárija (irregular troops), and four thousand regulars. The Beglerbegs -assembled around him, pitching their tents according to the orders -issued. It was an army of seventy-six thousand men. When the Persian -Envoy saw this immense army collected, he repented of his complaint -against the Beg of Shúshík, because he was afraid that this army might -receive orders to lay siege to Eriván. Alaja Atlí Hassan Agha, with -a thousand horse, was named Quarter-master (Konákjí-bashí); he took -the van with the tails and tens. Sídí Ahmed Páshá was named Chárkají, -or leader of the vanguard, and Bákí Páshá, Dúmdár, or leader of the -rearguard. The army set out from the Silver vault in such order that -the Persian Envoys and Khans remained quite perplexed. After four -hours march it reached the place called the Camel’s Neck (Deve-boiní), -where the Páshá, commander-in-chief, gave an entertainment to all the -Begs and Beglerbegs, after which every one retired to his tent; this -is a pleasant meadow, where our horses were refreshed with excellent -trefoil, it is also the commencement of the field of Pássin. In winter -time snow lies here to the height of a minareh, and many caravans have -been lost in it. It was the snow that prevented Tabáni Yassí Mohammed -Páshá from passing the Deve-boiní, and as he did not arrive before -Eriván soon enough, that fortress was taken from the Osmanlís after -seven months siege by the Persians. Three hours further towards the -east, we arrived at the village Ja’afer Efendí, where Ja’afer Efendí, -its owner, gave a splendid entertainment to the Páshá, with a present -of three horses, and three boys. It is a well cultivated Armenian -village of three hundred houses. We marched five hours across the plain -of Pássin to the strong fortress of Rúm Hassan, renovated by Uzún -Hassan, the Sultán of Azerbeiján; it is a lofty castle which was taken -by Sultán Súleimán out of the hands of the children of Kara Yússúf, -and is now the seat of the sanjak Beg of Pássin, in the province of -Erzerúm. The khass amounts, according to the canon of Sultán Súleimán, -to twelve thousand four hundred aspers; there are six Zaims, and three -hundred and twenty-five Timariots. An Alaï Beg, Cherí-bashí, and -Yuz-bashí (Colonel, Captain, and Lieutenant), are the officers of the -feudal militia. In the time of war, the number of the troops amounts -to fifteen hundred, the half of which now joined the Páshá’s army. The -castle saluted the Páshá, as soon as his tent was fixed, with a great -noise of guns and muskets. The Páshá sent an order to the commander -to place the whole garrison under arms on the walls, as he wished to -enter in state. When we entered it shouts of Allah rent the skies, -and the reports of the guns shook them, so that the Persian Envoy -was quite perplexed, putting the finger of astonishment to his lips. -In the inside of the castle, the space between the outer and inner -gate was set round with armour and different kinds of weapons, and -beginning from the hot-bath gate, both sides of the road were lined, -two deep, by armed men, who gave the salute. The prayer of Friday was -performed in the mosque, and when we left it all the walls were covered -with flags and banners of different colours. The Páshá entered the -inner castle, where the guns of Sultán Súleimán, of forty four spans -length, were fired, and the balls were thrown as far as the Bridge of -the Shepherds, Shobán Jissrí. Here the company sat down to a splendid -dinner, after which the Beg and Dizdár were invested with robes of -honour. The Páshá returned to his tent, where he received the visit of -the judge (appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers), the Serdár -of the Janissaries, the Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, of the Muftí, the -Nakib-ul-ishráf, and other principal men (Ayán.) - - -_Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan._ - -It is situated on the northern side of the field of Pássin, on an -isolated high cliff, so high, that to look down from the side of the -hot-bath makes the head giddy. Inside there is nobody but the Imám, -the Múezzin, and the Dizdár, or commander. Horses and asses cannot -get up to this place. There is a small Koshk built for Murad IV. by -our protector Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, at the time of the expedition -to Eriván, was the imperial sword-bearer, having succeeded the former -sword-bearer, who was removed from his office because the coverlet -of the Sultán’s bed was set fire to by a spark one night. The -circumference of the castle is one thousand paces, without a ditch; -an iron gate opens to the west. On the north side, below the upper or -innermost castle, is another castle with two walls, whose circumference -is six thousand paces. It is an oblong square, of a shining whiteness. -The walls are but eighteen yards high, but they are double, and on -three sides the ditch is very deep, so that there is no fear of an -enemy; the ground being marshy, no trenches can be opened. Its three -gates are: on the west side, the gate of Erzerúm, a great gate with -iron wings; the gate of the hot-bath, and a secret gate, shut to the -east side; there is a garrison of seven hundred men, with a well-filled -arsenal, and sixty large and small guns. Towards the south opens -the plain of Pássin, which is seven journies long. The houses, five -hundred and ninety in number, are all stone-built winter houses: the -town consists of nine quarters, with as many mosques. The mosque of -Súleimán is a low terraced mosque, with one minareh in the ancient -style; there is no Bezestán or Medresse, but six schools for boys, a -khán, and a bath. The inhabitants are a brave set of people, kind to -foreigners. There are some men of wit and learning. The great poet -Nefií Efendí was born here; no gardens exist round the castle, because -it is too cold, nevertheless, vegetables are found here in abundance. -Bread and honey are rather to be suspected, for I, myself, poor Evliyá, -having eaten some honey in the commander’s house, became in half an -hour so giddy that I thought of throwing myself down from the castle. - - -_Description of the Hot-baths._ - -On the south side of the lower town (Robáth), on the Kiblah side, are -several hot-baths; seven of them are covered with small cupolas, and -in eight other places the water is boiling in the open air, each place -being used for different animals, such as horses, mules, camels, sheep, -and others. The water of these hot-baths is carried to distant places -on camels, and those who are afflicted with leprosy are cured if they -drink of it. - -Three hours to the east from hence, we came to the village of Sefer -Agha, consisting of one hundred Armenian houses, in the field of -Pássin. Three hours further on, is the great Bridge of the Shepherds -(Chobán Koprissí). It is called so because it was built by Melek -Sultán, of the dynasty of the shepherds (Chobán). It is vaulted like a -rainbow over the river Aras, which comes from the great Gok-yaila, and -flows to the east; passes under Melázjerd, before the village of Artof, -the castle of Khinis, beneath the bridge of Altún Khalkalí, supplies -water to many hundred villages below the Bridge of the Shepherds, -joins the Zengi river below Eriván, which falls into the Kúr (Cyrus), -and with it disembogues into the Caspian Sea. The river Aras (Aranes) -is an impetuous river, which, at the melting of the snow, rages like -the sea. The army passed during three days over the bridge, with the -Páshá himself in grand state. After seven hours we came to the village -of Great Artof, in the sanjak of Khinis, a village of one hundred -Armenian houses. Eight hours further to the east, is the village of -Kúzúlí Sultán Baba, belonging to Khinis. The castle, which lies six -hours further on, was built by Shah Shapúr, the uncle of Uzún Hassan, -the Prince of Azerbeiján. It was conquered by Sultán Súleimán, and -is now the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to Erzerúm. The khass is -forty-eight thousand four hundred aspers, two ziamets, and four hundred -and twenty-five timárs, with the Jebellís, two thousand men, besides -one thousand men of the Páshá’s troops, all Kurds of the tribe Mahmudí. -The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers; there is no -Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Muftí, or Nakíb, but there is a Disdár. - - -_Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis._ - -It is three journies distance (if you walk fast) from Erzerúm, and is -a square, strong built castle, in the centre of a piece of high table -land, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The height of the -castle wall is ten cubits, it is six thousand paces in circumference, -with a gate to the north. In the eastern quarter of the castle is a -clear fountain. Below the castle, at the foot of the wall, is an iron -grating, which intercepts the stream, and distributes its water into -the gardens. The gate of the castle is near this spring; there are -within the castle twelve hundred Kurdish houses, and seven mosques, -a khán, a bath, and some small streets; the houses are all covered -with earth, and no bricks are to be seen. The inhabitants are all -Mahmúdí Kurds, rich in sheep and goats; every year they repair with -their cattle to the mountains of Boyúk-gol-yaila. Here the Beg of -Melázjerd, in his quality of sanjak Beg of Erzerúm, came with three -thousand well-armed Mahmúdí Kurds. He was invested with a robe of -honour, and presented with a Chelenk, and took the van of the army. -Ghazí Sídí Ahmed Páshá, commanding an army of fifty-three thousand men, -with twelve guns and two culverins, directed his march from Khinis to -Shúshík, and the Páshá, our master, remained with twelve hundred men on -the field of Khinis. We now marched to the east, through precipices, -for six hours, till we came to Khássík, a Kurdish village of two -hundred houses, and I, poor Evliyá, advanced with two hundred horse to -the castle of Zia-ud-dín, nine hours further; it is a strong castle in -the territory of Azerbeiján, built by the Princes of that name. It is -the frontier of the sanjak of Khinis; its keys were surrendered to the -Ottomans after the conquest of Ván, and the inhabitants were exempted -from all duties. There is no Serdár and Kiaya-yerí; there is a mosque -and six hundred houses, with terraces and lower stories only, a khán, -a bath, and from forty to fifty shops. The inhabitants are brave and -honest. - - -_Description of the Hot-bath._ - -Between the river Aras, the lake of Ván, and the castle of Arjesh, is a -famous hot-bath, in the neighbourhood of the castle Zia-ud-dín. It is -a curious fact that the springs rise in five or six different places; -at some of them the water is as cold as ice, in others it boils like -gruel. Here is a spring so cold that the hand cannot bear it, and close -to it one in which eggs and sheep’s feet are cooked. Only one of these -hot springs is covered with a cupola, the rest are exposed to the open -air; every one is large enough to drive a mill. We now turned to the -west, along the mountains of Súnjáb-Ainí, and arrived after nine hours -at the castle of Atík, built like the former, by Zia-ud-dín, the Prince -of Azerbeiján; it is a square castle on a rock. - - -_Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík._ - -It was built by Zia-ud-dín, the son of Sultán Hassan, and is a square -castle, on the top of a high rock. The camp was fixed at the distance -of a gunshot from the castle, and the siege began immediately. As soon -as the Mussulman victors opened the trenches, all the guns were fired -from the castle, and seventy men fell to the ground as martyrs. The -Commander, Sídí Ahmed Páshá, exhorting the Begs, Beglerbegs, and other -officers, with sweet words and presents and himself making all possible -exertions, brought four cannons on to the heights opposite the eastern -side of the castle, which being fired, killed Chendán Beg, the nephew -of the Beg of the castle. At the same moment a great lamentation arose -in the castle, and the Ottoman victors began to ascend the breaches by -ladders; in short, the siege lasted twenty-four hours, and the next -day the flags of truce were planted on the battlements, and all the -Kurds were crying Amán! Amán! O chosen family of Osmán! The commander, -Sídí Ahmed Páshá, with his first Colonel, went to the gates of the -castle, from which came out seven Kurdish Begs as hostages; they said, -“On this night Mustafa Beg, our Beg, deserted the castle and fled to -the Persians.” Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave no credit to this report, and -told them to find their Beg, lest they might have their hands cut -like sheeps’ feet; he fettered them, put seven hundred men into the -castle, confiscated all the goods found in the palace of the Beg, -disarmed the Kurds, collected three thousand muskets and six thousand -swords and other arms, and sent the merry news to my Lord, Mohammed -Páshá. The same day the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was proclaimed in the -castle; two thousand muskets and many guns were fired as a salute; the -whole district of Shúshík, up to the Persian frontier, was ravaged -and pillaged, and the Moslím victors enriched with the booty of -some hundred thousand sheep, oxen and mules. Men were sent into the -interior of the country in search of the Beg, but only found a spy, -whose nose and ears were in the first place slit, but at the moment -the executioner was about to cut off his head, he implored the Páshá’s -mercy, saying that he had something of importance to communicate to -him. He said that the Beg of Shúshík had fallen into the hands of the -Persian Khán of Magú, and was imprisoned there. Bákí Páshá, Katgáj -Páshá, and Dilawer Páshá, with the Beg of Melázjerd, Mohammed Beg, with -three thousand men, were ordered to go in search of the Beg of Shúshík -at the castle of Magú. I, poor Evliyá, was also in the expedition. -We marched across the Minváldereh amidst the mountains, and at the -end of eight hours, reached the tomb of Tahmúrass Khán, a Persian, -who was killed in the war of Cighálezadeh, and buried at this spot; -here are two hundred Armenian houses, which pay tribute to the Beg of -Shúshík, and to the Persians. We advanced for seven hours through a -woody country, and for two more through flowery fields, and arrived -at the castle of Magú, built by Núshirván. The Kurds submitted to -Súleimán, who made a present of this castle to the Beg of the Mahmúdí -tribe. The Persians took it from them, and it is now subordinate to the -governor of Melázjerd. In the time of the grand Vezír of Sultan Murad -IV. Kara Mustafa Páshá, after the conquest of Baghdád, went to Derne -and Derteng, in order to settle the boundary; my lord, Melek Ahmed -Páshá, my gracious protector, was then Governor of Diarbekr, and named -on this commission for settling the frontiers and renewing the peace. -The Ottomans had laid waste the castle of Zálim, in the province of -Shehrzol, and the Persians that of Kotúr, in the province of Ván. The -Ottomans also took possession of Magú, and transferred the Beg and the -garrison to Melázjerd. Under the pretext of the rebellion of the Beg of -Shúshík, the Persians laid hold of Magú, which is a fortress, like the -castles of Ván, Márdín, Shuban Kara, Afiún Kara Hissár, A’adil Jiwás, -Tokát, and Amasia. - - -_Size and Form of Magú._ - -It is situated on a high and steep rock, the base of which is thin and -narrow, and towers into the skies, being inaccessible on all sides. -There is but one gate to which you ascend by a small staircase cut -in the rock like a minareh. Seven hundred houses afford lodgings to -two thousand musketeers of Mazenderán, commanded by a Sultán (Beg) -subordinate to the Khán (Páshá, governor) of Eriván. The drawbridge -which leads over the river, to the Castle, is raised every night, and -it thus becomes entirely isolated; the water is raised by ropes of one -hundred fathoms length. The Khán descended with one thousand of his -serving men (Dízchoken Túlúnkí), and gave a grand entertainment to Bákí -Páshá, who, after dinner, requested that the Beg of Shúshík might be -given up to him: this was done accordingly, and he was carried to Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, who came on the seventh day to Khinis, and delivered him -to Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, who spared his life, but put -him into prison. Forty thousand sheep, forty horses, seventeen strings -of mules, twenty Georgian slaves, and fifty purses were taken from him, -he was afterwards released, but his castle was given to Mohammed the -Beg of Melázjerd, who furnished twenty purses, twenty strings of mules, -a great number of furs and skins of lynxes and leopards; the Moslím -victors returned in safety with their booty to Erzerúm. On the same day -after seven hours, we reached the village of Alajalar; it is situated -on the border of Aras, under the command of the castle of Bayazíd, and -consists of three hundred Armenian houses. Here our gracious Lord gave -a grand entertainment to the Persian Envoys of the Kháns of Eriván, -Nakhshiván and Tabríz, and gave each of them letters of amity, with a -couple of Arabian horses, beads of coral, bow and arrows, and Genoese -and Venetian cloth. He told them in his speech, that in order to -satisfy the Khán of Eriván he had reduced the Beg of Shúshík, but that -he hoped now that the Persians on their side would fulfil with equal -faithfulness the conditions of the peace, and therefore evacuate the -castle of Shúshík, and give it back to the Ottomans, if not, that he as -Commander-in-Chief would ravage the districts of Eriván and Nakhshiván. -The three envoys kissed the ground and were invested with Persian sable -pelisses. The Kelárjí Velí Agha was sent with the Envoy to Eriván; -Alaja Atlí Hassan with the second to Nakhshiván, and I poor Evliyá -in quality of Clerk of the Custom-house was named to go with letters -and presents in the third Envoy’s company to Tabríz, to arrange the -commercial affairs. I took two horses richly caparisoned to the Khán, -handkerchiefs, beads of pearl, and a magnificent quiver. I received -myself, on setting out on my journey, a purse of money, and a robe of -honour, and was accompanied by ten servants, and ten men of all arms, -altogether forty-five men. I took leave of the Páshá, and set out -trusting in the Lord for Nakhshiván and Eriván. - - -_Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia._ - -On the first day, we travelled for the space of eight hours along the -Aras, towards the east, and arrived at the village Yailajak, partly -Armenian and partly Moslím, subordinate to the Castle of Anek. Further -eastward we came to Barúd Kháneh belonging to the Castle Shúshík, -consisting of three hundred houses; saltpetre is produced here. -Sixteen hours further is the station of Kendúsh Kia, on the banks -of a torrent called Okhdere; we pitched our tents here in a flowery -meadow amidst beds of tulips. Twelve hours further on is the station -of Chághla-ghúrna, the inhabitants are Kurds. We saw the castle of -Shúshík, on our left on high rocks, and were saluted by it with seven -guns. The new Beg also sent us a quantity of provisions. Here we parted -company with Kássim Khán, the Envoy of Eriván, who went to the left, -while I poor Evliyá took the road on the right to Nakhshiván. After -having travelled thirteen hours through a mountainous tract, we came -to Karish, the first town in Persia. It was built by Shárokh, the -son of Timúr, and then came into the power of Uzún Hassan the Prince -of Azerbeiján. Its castle is situated on a high peak, is square and -built of stone, an elegant yet strong fortress, garrisoned by one -thousand Dizchoken Túlúnkí. They saluted us contrary to our wishes, -by firing eighteen guns, the report of which was re-echoed among the -neighbouring hills. We encamped at the foot of the castle, and visited -the town at our leisure. It was formerly a large town, but is now in -ruins, in consequence of the pillage it suffered at the time of the -expedition to Eriván by Sultán Murad IV. when the troops of Erzerúm, -Achika and Karrs revolted, and plundered this town of Karish. There are -seven mosques with minarehs, three baths, and gardens and vineyards -in abundance. The town is situated on the banks of the river Karish, -which issues from Mount Súkún, and flows to the Aras. The Agha of -the Castle invited me with the envoy to a feast, and our horses with -difficulty ascended to the castle in half an hour. The Agha of the -garrison dressed in an odd way, and giving us welcome, invited us to -his house, from which a beautiful view may be enjoyed. He treated us -to eleven sorts of pilaw and a great number of other good dishes; he -presented me, the envoy, and Alaja Atlí Hassan, with leopard skins, and -sent after us when we had returned to our tents, a present of fifty -sheep, one thousand loaves of white bread, and from seven to eight -mule-loads of delicious fruits, with several sorts of sherbet. We kept -the great feast (Bairám) here, remained a couple of days, and were then -entertained with a sumptuous dinner in a garden. Returning from the -garden we took a view of the outside of the mosque of Evhad Allah, it -is an incomparable mosque with a well-proportioned minareh; near it is -the bath of Táj-ud-dín Munshí, and seven Kháns. The beautiful women of -the place have such fine and brilliant eyes, that one glance from them -delights the heart more than a thousand from others. The next morning -three hundred Persian horsemen joined us, and accompanied us on our -way, which led through a mountainous tract, thirteen hours towards the -east, to the station of the village of Kend Massír; Kend is the Persian -word signifying the same as the Turkish Kassaba (small town). It is -situated on the border of Mount Massír, and consists of one thousand -houses with earthen roofs, surrounded with gardens, seven mosques, -three baths, and three hundred shops. It is the seat of a Kelenter -(provost) subordinate to Eriván. We advanced fourteen hours to Kend -Zúh Khán, on the frontier of Nakhshiván belonging to its khass, it is -a flourishing small town. Here we took two Persian boys, who delighted -us with their songs. We now proceeded for seven hours through a wide -valley, where we saw immense trees, to Uch Kilisse. On the top of a -mountain are three great convents, in each of which lodge a couple of -hundred priests and monks. Fine youths serve the strangers who divert -themselves here. One of these three convents was built by Núrshirván, -the second by the Greek Emperor, the third by an Armenian lady, which -is now inhabited by more than five hundred nuns, who eat nothing but -dry roots; but they serve milk, dates and sweetmeats to stranger’s, -and take care of their goods and horses. These three Armenian convents -are celebrated amongst all Christians, and are therefore well endowed. -In each of them are from five to ten guest-masters, and from forty to -fifty cooks. The Abbot of these convents gave to me and the envoys, a -grand entertainment, and presents after dinner. - - -_Curiosities of Uch Kilisse._ - -At the grand convent built by Núrshirván, every year forty or fifty -thousand Infidels assemble from all countries of Christianity, to -witness the solemnity of an old carpet being spread on the top of the -mountain. They collect all useful and medical herbs growing on these -mountains, and throw them into a boiling kettle which stands upon this -carpet; these herbs remain boiling more than an hour in the kettle -on the carpet, which receives no harm, to the great astonishment of -many thousand spectators. The herbs are then distributed amongst the -people, some of whom carry them to their own countries, others eat -them on the spot. I talked with the monks about this, who assured me -that the carpet was the same on which Jesus fell when issuing from -Mary’s womb; when shut up in a cave with his twelve disciples for fear -of the Israelites, they cooked their herbs on this carpet, which to -witness the miraculous power of Jesus, restored a dead man to life. -It is the same carpet on which Jesus gave a dinner to the Israelites. -The carpet then passed into the hands of Núrshirván, who when building -the Convent gave it to it as an endowment. When Sultán Súleimán went -to the siege of Eriván he performed a double prayer on this carpet. It -is neither cotton nor silk, but of variegated colours and very heavy. -I, poor Evliyá, am of opinion that it is of asbestos, a stone which -is found in the island of Cyprus, and worked into linen and paper, -handkerchiefs, shirts, &c., which are brought as presents to the great -men of Constantinople. Sultán Murád said to his sister Kia Sultán (Kia -signifies rock) the Lady of my gracious Lord, Melek Ahmed Páshá. “Lady -Rockby! as your name is rocky, I’ll give you a shirt of stone,” and -really gave her a shirt, which, when dirty, was cleansed by throwing -it into the fire. Great men have abundance of asbestos linen; Captain -Hassám-zadeh gave me such a handkerchief, which having become dirty, in -the presence of Melek Páshá, I threw into the fire, when it became as -pure as a white rose. God knows whether this carpet is not also made -of this Cyprian stone. We left Uch Kilisse and passed towards the east -through cultivated fields and populous villages, so that we did not see -a cubit of ground which was not productive or cultivated, and arrived -after eight hours march at a well cultivated village on the border -of Mount Sokún, like a small town. We counted no less than eleven -minarehs, but as I was indisposed I did not examine it well. - - -_Pilgrimage to Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb._ - -It is a great Convent of Begtáshís; more than three hundred came with -drums beating and banners flying to give us welcome: a crowd of poor -fellows all in raptures of divine love, by the prayers of whom I was -restored to health. Next day we crossed a plain for thirteen hours, -and halted three times on it. At the southern end of this field we -pitched our tents on the bank of the great river Zengí, where the -people of all the Kents of the neighbourhood, flocking together, -brought us abundance of provisions as presents, so that our servants -feasted as if they were as many Ma’adí Karbs, and our horses feasted on -trefoil and other luxuriant herbs, so that their bellies swelled like -wine-skins. The river Zengí issues on the south from the mountains of -Khárán, flows to the North, supplying water to many thousand Kents, -and then joins the Aras, which falling into the Kúr (Cyrus) runs into -the Caspian sea. We continued our journey hunting hares, and came at -the end of ten hours to the Kent Sídreghí, a Wakf of Imám Riza in the -territory of Nakhshiván. It is a flourishing Kent of about one thousand -houses surrounded with gardens. The inhabitants are all Shi’ís. The -hot-spring of Sídreghí is outside of the town close to the vineyards; -this hot-spring is covered with a large cupola, and in the large basin -the Persian youths swim like silver fishes; they amuse themselves by -disporting in the water, and singing with melodious voices. Fourteen -hours further to the east, we came to Zavieí Ahmed Beg, consisting of -five hundred houses, in the territory of Nakhshiván. Here are three -mosques, one of which was built by Zál Páshá-zadeh Ahmed, when governor -of Nakhshiván, in the style of the mosques at Constantinople. This is -the reason why the Persians called this Kent (borough) the cell (zavie) -of Ahmed Páshá; the whole borough is appropriated to the endowment of -this mosque. We passed during sixteen hours through many cultivated -Kents (boroughs) until we reached the large town Kara-bághlar, first -built by Menúchehr, it is the seat of a Sultán (Beg) in the territory -of Nakhshiván, it was wrested from the Ottomans by the Persians in the -time of Mohammed III. and laid waste by the army of Sultán Murád IV., -so that now ruins are only to be seen. Timúr passed a winter in perfect -quietness at Karabághlar; Suleimán Khán and other commanders-in-chief -were stationed here at different times for five or six months in the -greatest affluence. This place is now recovering from the havoc made -by Sultán Murad IV., but in comparison with its former state, it is -not as an atom in the sun, nor a drop in the ocean. Our servants -counted forty minarehs, and according to the report of our Mihmándár -it consisted of ten thousand houses with gardens and vineyards, and -seventy mosques (forty of which have minarehs), a great number of -Kháns, baths and markets. The mildness of the air contributes to the -beauty of the inhabitants; the variety of fruits which abound here, is -no where else to be met with. Taking a walk with the Envoy in a garden, -the gardener brought us twenty-six different kinds of pears, the best -are the Meleje, Abbássí, Ordúbaí, which when eaten, inundates the -mouth and hands with rich juice, like jelly or sirup; there are also -ruby-coloured pomegranates. In the cleanly cookshops you find pilaw of -Eriván, with excellent herísse (fricassee). The cooks are extremely -clean because they are all Moslíms, and in the whole of Persia eatables -are never sold by Armenians or Greeks; indeed there are no Greeks at -all in Persia, except a few travelling merchants, but there are a great -many Shi’ítes and Jews being the sect of the Teberraites and Karaites. -There are also Mulhads (impious); Zindíks, (atheists); Ja’aferites, -Jeberites, Kadrites, Húrúfites, Zimínites, and other such heretics. -After having taken a good view of the gardens at Karabágh we departed, -and in seven hours reached the fortress of Nakhshiván, which by some is -spelt Nakhjíván, (the cosmetic water of all the towns of Irán;) it is -the seat of a Khán (answering to the Turkish Páshá) on the frontier of -Azerbeiján and Avján. Its officers are an Itimád-ud-devlet (minister); -Kelenter, (provost, in Turkish Súbashí); a Múnshí, (secretary, -otherwise Kiatib); a Dárogha, an Agha of the Dízchoken (the troops) a -judge and a muftí. It was originally built by Sháh Efrasiáb, and the -cupolas are shewn where his ancestors are said to be buried; in their -times it was extremely populous and cultivated: it was then pillaged -by the Moghols, who levelled the castle with the dust; Sháh Ismaíl -rebuilt it, and in the reign of Mohammed III. it was taken possession -of by Zúltakár Khán, and again conquered in the time of Sultán Murad -IV. by Tabán Yassí Mohammed Páshá. Such is the state of the world where -nothing remains unchanged, but every thing perishes except His (God’s) -face. After Sultán Murad’s conquest it consisted of twelve thousand -houses with terraces, seventy mosques, forty mesjíds, twenty kháns, -seven baths, and one thousand shops. The air is mild, but as it has -few gardens, it has also but few fruits, one of its best products, is -cotton of seven colours, black, yellow, ruby-coloured and of the purest -white. The corn and wheat of Nakshiván is praised every where. Above -all its painted linen and its Chít (chintz) deserve to be recommended. -Its barley is so rich, that if a horse eats four grains of it, it is -satiated; its gardens are repositories of melons and water-melons. The -youth are all fair and white on account of its excellent air, they wear -the Persian turban, Táj, and robes of painted cotton and Chít (chintz) -breeches of different colours, and green, red and orange-coloured -papúshes. The women wear pointed caps on which they wrap white muslin, -and boots of various colours. The fashionable young men wear pelisses -of Isfahán, and walk with great pomp and dignity, but they are wholly -attached to women. The people pretend to be of the orthodox sect of -Sháfií although they are Persians, but this is a foul lie, they are -Ja’aferites, who, however, keep the regular prayer hours five times a -day, but never in company. They have some very fine mosques, every one -of which may be compared to Eden, they are lined with painted pottery, -and at some, the cupolas are covered in the same manner, there are -thirty-three minarehs in the style of those of Constantinople; that of -Ahmed Páshá exactly resembles that of Rostán Páshá at Constantinople. -The bath of Jenání is very pleasant, the walls are faced with -porcelain, and the floor is paved; the waiters are black-eyed youths -from Khoten, whose crystal white bodies are set off by the dark blue of -their aprons. Near the house where we lodged, as guests, is the bath -of Zál Páshá, which is also a soul-delighting bath, owing to its fine -water and excellent attendance; the walls are faced with porcelain, -and the floor paved with jasper, marble, and granite of various hues. -In the large basin ten feet square, which is underneath the cupola, -the young people swim like angels of the sea: the bath-keeper every -day pours into the basin, a basket of rose-leaves, which attaching -themselves to the bodies of the bathers forms a kind of veil which -is very becoming; thus they sport and play like peacocks and doves, -their nakedness being covered by rose-leaves; in short this bath is so -delightful that such poets as Hassán and Selmán could not sufficiently -praise it, how then could it be possible for me, poor Evliyá, to -succeed. - -Rich merchants are established in the market, who trade by land and -sea, each of whom is as rich as Karún; the inhabitants are all given to -pleasure, and pass part of every day in each other’s gardens. The Khán -of Nakhshiván, Rísa-ud-din, after having met us, carried us directly to -one of his gardens, where he read our letters to the principal men of -Nakhshiván, and gave us an entertainment, attended by so many singers -and musicians, that it was equal to the feast of Hossein Bikara. The -Khán, a person of great repute, had been the treasurer of Sultán Sifí, -who had delivered the castle of Baghdád to Sultán Murad; he was a man -of great judgment, of Georgian extraction, and his name was Devlet -Murád Khán. After dinner he gave to Alaja Atlí Hassan, who came as -envoy from the Páshá, and to me, brilliant robes of honour, ten tománs -of Abbássí, and a horse, investing his own envoy also with a caftán. -He has from forty to fifty delightful companions excelling in various -arts. The inhabitants of this town generally speak the dialect Dihkáni, -or of peasants, but they have poets who speak the Pehleví and Moghol -languages with elegance. The languages that are spoken here, are the -Dihkání or rough Persian; the Derí, or court language; the Farsí, or -pure but less elegant Persian; the Ghází and the Pehleví, two ancient -dialects. - -In the commentary of Dilemí, it is reported that the Prophet asked -Michael “whether God ever spoke any thing in Persian;” and Michael -replied, “yes, that there were some passages in the books which -Abraham received from Heaven:” and the Prophet answered, “whoever -ridicules the Ghází dialect is an Infidel”. - -The Turkomans, Gokdúlák and Moghols, who are settled in the different -districts, again speak other dialects. All these districts are defended -by strong castles, some of which I passed on hunting parties, without -having leisure to examine them properly. The names of these castles -are:—Alánjak Ván, built by Molla Kotb-ud-dín; Serán, Sersú, and -Semaraván, built by Merván Ibn-al-himár. The names of Persian towns -almost all terminate as follows:—in Tartary the castles are named, -Cherkers Kermán, Kiresh Kermán, Sháhin Kermán, Irbát Kermán, In Kermán, -Ghází Kermán, Uzí Kermán, and Ak Kermán. The names of Polish fortresses -are Kamanija (Kaminiuk), and Alúnjissa. The names of fortresses in -Transylvania terminate in ár, as Sakmár, Sakswár, Oivár, &c. The -German fortresses are Iran, Comoin, Tata, Papa, Santmarton, Posonium, -Bedj (Vienna), the latter is the residence of the German Emperor. -Amongst the names of Ottoman towns, those of the Holy land are the -most sounding. The whole Ottoman Empire consists of seventy seats of -Begler-Begs, three hundred and sixty sanjak Begs, and thirteen hundred -and eighty strong castles. May they all remain in the power of the -Ottoman family until the end of the World. Amen! The names of Persian -castles will be given in the course of our travels. - - - - -JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ. - - -From Nakhshiván we proceeded for eight hours towards the Kiblah, and -arrived at the place Kessik Kunbed, containing one thousand houses with -gardens, three mosques, a Khán and Hamám. - - -_Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara._ - -The inhabitants of the kent told us, that it was the tomb of the son of -Hossein Bikara, but on the marble coffin was written Murád Ibn Beháder -Shefád Ibn Hossein Bákara. It is a high cupola, and the tomb-keeper -is one of the descendants of Hossein Bikara. We continued our journey -from hence seven hours along the Arash, which rises in the mountains -of the Curds Bínpánshí, in the province of Ván, flows to the North and -joins the river Zenghí. It may be crossed on horseback. We now advanced -for some time amongst gardens, and arrived at Karabágh, a town of -Azerbeiján, which was built by one of the princes of this country, and -ruined by Koja Ferhád Páshá one of the Vezírs of Sultán Mohammed the -conqueror of Erla. The traces of havock are still to be seen. - -When Sultán Murad IV., on his expedition to the conquest of Eriván, -came to this country, he again pillaged the town, which is just now -rising from its ruins. It is the seat of a Sultán, who commands one -thousand men. Its officers are a Kelenter, Darogha, Múnshí, Bínbáshí, -and Dizchoken-agassí. The town is situated on a beautiful wide plain, -and consists of three thousand houses, seven mosques, seven baths, -three kháns, and six hundred shops. The youth of both sexes are -pretty; the products good and plentiful; the air salubrious and the -water excellent; it is adorned and surrounded with gardens. Among the -fruits deserve to be mentioned twelve different sorts of ruby-coloured -grapes, and eighteen sorts of cherries; some of its quinces are of the -size of a man’s head. Its waters are carried in some places through -subterraneous conduits, and are most refreshing in summer time. The -cupolas of the mosques are built in the old style of architecture, that -is to say, pointed, and are covered with china of different colours; -eleven minarehs are conspicuous, but there are altogether seventy -mihrábs. The inhabitants have been exempted from the payment of all -gifts and duties, on condition that they would rebuild the town; they -only contribute annually to the Sháh of Irán an hundred camel-loads -of dried fruits. In short, there are three towns in Azerbeiján called -Karabágh, each of which is a garden resembling Paradise. We went from -hence turning towards the Kiblah, and arrived at the place where -the river Irs joins that of Shán. We crossed it amidst a thousand -difficulties; it collects its waters from the mountains of Punyánshí -(Bínpánshí?) Bíredos, and Bághassí. Three stations below the plain of -Nakhshiván the Irs runs into the Zenghí, the Zenghí into the Aras, -the Aras into the Kúr, the Kúr into the Terek, (?) and the Terek into -the Caspian Sea. After having crossed the river we came in six hours -to Kent Kerken, which is situated in the province of Tabríz on the -frontier of Merend, consisting of three hundred houses, a mosque, a -khán, and a bath; but the inhabitants are extremely uncivil Persians; -they are all cotton weavers, of which their plain produces a large -quantity; bogassins of various colours are manufactured here. - -After a march of nine hours towards the Kiblah, we arrived at the kent -of Zeneves, one thousand well-built houses, ten mosques, a khán, and -bath. Ten hours further on, towards the Kiblah, is the town of Tessúí; -it is situated on the frontier of Merend and the bank of the Irs, and -has three thousand houses with terraces, seven mosques, three baths, -and six kháns. Its Sultán commands one thousand armed men; there is -a Kelenter and Darogha, a Múnshí and Kádhí. It was also destroyed by -Murad IV., and is now recovering from its ruins; it is twelve farsangs -distant from the town of Merend; the fruits of Tessúí are celebrated. -The inhabitants are Shiítes, who live by gardening. We now passed to -the south, drinking fresh water from wells, because the greatest part -of the water is here subterraneous, and at the end of twelve farsangs -we reached the town of Merend, the residence of the Khán of Elvend, and -the seat of a Sultán commanding one thousand men. Its authorities are a -Kelenter, Darogha, Munshí, and Dizchoken Aghá. The interval of fourteen -farsangs between here and Tabríz is all well cultivated ground. -Merend lies to the east of Tabríz. It was formerly a hunting place -of Sháhrokh, the son of Timúr, and was in a flourishing state, but -Sultán Murad IV. laid it waste; there are now three thousand houses, -seven mosques, three kháns, five baths and six hundred shops, but no -Bezestán, no colleges nor abecedarian schools; but praise must be given -to its seventy fine walks and gardens, each of which outrivals those of -Eden. Its youth of both sexes are pretty and eloquent. The inhabitants -are for the most part military men, all the sect of the Shiítes; on the -Kiblah side of the town is the tomb of Hossein Teftazání, one of the -ancestors of the great Teftazání, also of Alí Khándí, Sheikh Súsemári, -and Alí-ud-dín. We received presents from the Sultán of this town, -and went on seven hours, on the Kiblah side, through roads planted on -both sides with willows and planes, so that we always travelled in the -shade, sheltered against the rays of the sun. We halted at the wells, -and arrived at Kent Kuherín, belonging to the Secretary of the Khán -of Tabríz, of one thousand houses, six mosques, three baths, and two -great palaces. It is an extremely flourishing kent. May God destroy -it! because they are all Shiítes, and because I heard here for the -first time, curses uttered against Omar. Allah confound them! I was -obliged to listen quietly to those obloquies, though I had a great mind -to kill the rascal, which I might have done without incurring much -responsibility, because envoys travelling from Rúm to Persia are free -in all their actions, even if they should kill a Persian. - -We now marched six hours further to Kent Sehlán, which is the khass of -the Khán of Tabríz, situated in a plain, consisting of one thousand -houses, seven mosques, a khán, a bath and some small markets (Súk). -Its streets are all planted with willows and planes. The inhabitants -of Tabríz have their koshks and pleasure-houses in this kent; the -inhabitants of the place pretend to be Sháfiítes, but are all cursed -Ráfedites; the young people and the air of the place is praiseworthy. -As we continued our journey, we saw on our right, the high cupola of -Ghazán Mohammed Sháh towering into the skies, conspicuous at six hours -distance. We said a Fátihah to his memory, halted on a fine meadow, and -sent a messenger to Tabríz. After three hours we mounted our horses for -the solemn entry, I and the Envoy of Tabríz side by side; before the -envoy marched his soldiers well dressed, and before me forty persons -composing my train; the Kiaya of the Khán of Tabríz came to meet us -in solemn pomp (Istikbál), and accompanied by him we made our entrance -into the town of Tabríz, where many thousand persons in the market were -collected to stare at us; our march from the town-gate to the palace -of the Khán at the other extremity of the town lasted for two hours. -The Khán received us in his Diván, where a great Council was assembled, -the Persian music consisting of kettle-drums and trumpets were three -times sounded, and the troops paraded. After the music was over, I -got up, and drew forth from my breast the letter of Defterdár-zadeh -Mohammed Páshá, the governor of Erzerúm, giving it into the hand of -the Khán, who got up and kissed it, and put it on his head. The Ishek -Aghá (master of the ceremonies) then shewed me my place, where I stood -in the Mohammedan fashion. The Khán gave the letter to his secretary -(Múnshí), who kissed it respectfully, and read it with a loud voice. -At the mention of God’s name, and the Prophet’s name, all stood up -praising the Prophet, but at the mention of his four friends, some -looked askance (not liking to hear Omar mentioned amongst them.) - -The reading being finished the Khán said: “With the aid of God I will -send to my honourable brother the Vezír of the Emperor, before a month -elapses, a caravan of a hundred horses, and one of a hundred camels.” -Then adding different kind greetings and words, he made us sit down -close to him, and ordered the repast to be brought in. After dinner, I -delivered the pearl beads, the quiver and the Venetian stuffs, which, -said I, “the Páshá has furnished me with, that I may not appear before -your Excellency with empty hands; he has added to these two Arabian -horses of high breeding, which shall now make their appearance, if -your Excellency would be pleased to see them.” He rose up, and we -came to the end of the room; the horses richly caparisoned were on -the signal given by me led into his presence: they came dancing and -capering to the great astonishment of all the gentlemen of the Diván; -saying, “Bismillah!” I gave the bridle of the horse into the hands of -the Khán, adding “Mobarek-bád” (Be it prosperous!) The Khán took some -turns on the horse, riding without stirrups in the fashion of Persian -horsemanship. I then presented him with the second horse (Yelkendiz), -with which he was no less satisfied, and sent it to his stable. At -a signal by the Khán all our servants were served with sherbet, -rosewater and incense was repeated; and we were then given in to the -care of the Mihmándár, Kúrújí-báshí, Darogha, and Kelenter. The latter -conducted us to his garden, where we remained. The Khán sent me forty -tománs bath-money, a caparisoned horse (Karajabuk), with an elegant -saddlecloth, and seven camel-loads of provisions. The public cryers -now published, throughout the town, an order of the Khán to make known -that an Ottoman embassy of Sunnís having arrived, every body should be -cautious of insulting them, lest they might be killed by the Sunnís. -They curse neither Abúbekr nor Osmán, but Omar gives them a terrible -head-ache, and they cannot refrain from injuring him by slanderous -words. The same day the Khán sent us ten fine youths all dressed in -embroidered cloth. They were led by our Mihmándár to kiss our hands, -according to the ancient etiquette by which the Kháns of Persia used to -send ten fine youths as servants to the Ottoman Envoys. We now began to -take a view of the town. - - -_Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz._ - -In the Moghol language it is called Túris; in the Derí dialect, -Táríz; in the Dihkání, Tábríz; and in the Farsí, Tabríz: in all these -dialects, _tab_ signifies fever, and _ríz_ pouring [dispersing], -because the air is so salubrious, and the water of Aján so good, that -people who come from regions where fever prevails, completely recover -here; the fortress of Cairo is also a place where no fever is to -be found. Tabríz was founded by Zobeide, Harún Rashíd’s wife, who, -when pregnant with Mamún, built a pleasure-house here on account of -the excellent air. Afterwards a large town was built at an immense -expense, and of such extent that it took three days to go round it. -In the time of Calíf Motevekel, it was ruined by an earthquake which -destroyed forty thousand men. Motevekel came himself from Baghdád to -rebuild the town at the expense of immense treasure. It rests on one -side upon mount Aján, on another side upon mount Sehlán, on a third -side upon mount Senján, and on the fourth upon the Maiden’s mount -(Kiztágh). The actual circumference of Tabríz, is six thousand paces, -there are three hundred towers, three thousand battlements, and six -gates, viz., that of Aján, of Berserván, of Serzúd, and of Shámnemázán, -each of which is guarded by five hundred watchmen. The third builder -of Tabríz was Húlagú, who resided here seven years, and embellished it -wonderfully: Mohammed Khodabende Ibzárgún Sháh transferred the whole -palace, built by Húlagú, on camels to his new built town. The timber -used in the buildings was all cypress and aloe wood, and they have -been faced with china ever since. The fourth builder was Mohammed Sháh -Ghazán, who extended the boundaries to the mountains of Senján, Aján, -and Sehlán, and surrounded it with a wall, which required four days to -make a tour of it. The town formerly built by Motevekel became then -the inner castle or citadel of the new town. In the year 959, it was -taken by Sultán Suleimán, who did not ravage it, but made a present -of it to Sháh Elkáss Mirza. In the year 994 (1585), it was taken by -the Persians. In the reign of Murad III., Uzdemir-oghlí Murad Páshá -undertook the expedition into Persia with an immense army, the van of -which was led by Jighála-oghlí Sinám. Osmán Páshá, one of his generals, -took the town of Tabríz out of the hands of the Sháh. - -To defend this town a strong citadel was then built of twelve thousand -seven hundred cubits, which seems as though it had been built by -Ferhád, and on the gate of which the name of Uzdemir is inscribed. -Uzdemir Páshá, the fifth builder, finished the castle in thirty-six -days, and filled it with all necessary stores, and a garrison of forty -thousand men. But he was not so happy as to perform the Friday’s -prayer, having died before it; the whole army proclaimed Jighála-zadeh -Sinám their commander, who was not however confirmed in his place by -the Porte, which when made acquainted with the news, named Khándin -Ja’affer Páshá, formerly Governor of Tripolis; under whose government -the flourishing state of Tabríz excelled even that at the time -of Sultán Gházán. According to the description made in his time, -Tabríz reckoned eighty thousand houses, and three hundred thousand -inhabitants. During the troubles which took place soon afterwards by -the rebellion of the troops, it happened, that the Persians became -masters of Genje, Shirván, Shamákhí, Eriván, Nakhshiván and Tabríz, -until the time of vengeance arrived in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. He -conquered the fortress of Eriván in seven days, ransacked the towns of -Nakhshiván, Merend and Karabágh, remained a week at Tabríz, levelled -the palace of Sháh Abbás, and set fire to all the wooden houses, so -that only stone buildings, such as mosques and baths, remained; after -which havock he returned to Constantinople. Sháh Abbás returned, -conciliated the inhabitants, and began to restore it to its former -splendour. It is now the capital of Azerbeiján, and the seat of the -Khán its Governor, who commands ten thousand men. Its officers are the -Muftí, Nakíb or head of the Seids (Emírs), the Molla (Judge), Kelenter -(Lieutenant of police), Múnshí, (Secretary), Darogha (Provost), -Kúrújí-báshí (chief of the guards of the woods and heaths), Dízchoken -Aghá, (commander of the garrison), Chiyek-yeyen Aghá (another officer -of the troops), Yassúl Aghá (Inspector of the sentinels), and Ishek -Aghá (Master of the Ceremonies) Mihmándár. These public officers keep -good order in the town of Tabríz, so that justice prevails as it did in -the time of Núrshírván, and no person can take a grain of mustard-seed -from another. - - -_Description of the Mosques of Tabríz._ - -There are altogether three hundred and twenty mihrábs, nineteen of -which are Imperial mosques. The first is the old mosque of Zobeide, -the cupola and walls of which are all inlaid with china (fayence;) -the mortar of the Mihráb having been mixed with musk, exhales the -sweetest perfume; its minareh is also entirely inlaid with china. The -mosque of Motevekel is a mosque in the old style, with one minareh, -which like the former is faced with china. In the course of time the -builder’s name has been lost, and it is now called Meshkieh. The -mosque of Sultán Mohammed Shám Ghazán, which was formerly a splendid -mosque, is now falling into decay in an obscure place; the mosque of -Jihán Sháh Emín is a high building with a dome vying with that of Ták -Kesra, like the mosque of Táher Bibars, at Cairo; its walls are white -polished like Chinese paper, and before the Mihráb is a fine garden, -the scent of which perfumes the air. The name of this fine mosque is -Dihshetí-Behesht (terror of Paradise). The mosque of Sultán Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján, the same who built the fortress of Hassan Kala’a -to the east of Erzerúm, and who was defeated by Sultán Mohammed II. in -the field of Terján. He is buried at this mosque, the cupolas of which -are inlaid with china inside and out; it is quite equal to the mosque -of Sultán Hassan at Cairo. The minber, mihráb and mahfil are adorned -with such elegant sculptures and carving, that the greatest masters -of the present day would not be able to finish it in that style; the -windows shine with unparalleled splendour, but the greatest masterpiece -is conspicuous in the arabesques and ornaments of the great gate. Above -all the gates and windows are inscriptions in the character of Yakút -Mostea’assemí. On the side of the altar are two columns of a yellow -stone, each of which is worth the revenue of Irán and Turán: these two -columns have no equal, either in Egypt, Syria, Arabia, or Persia. The -other Imperial mosques are also faced with china, paved with marble and -adorned with paintings and suspended ornaments, so that each is quite a -Chinese gallery. These five mosques are not however so much frequented -as those in Turkey, because prayers are not performed in community, -but singly by persons, who enter and leave abruptly. Opposite to the -mosque of Uzún Hassan is that of Sháh Ismail, and near it that of Sháh -Makssúd, the son of Sultán Hassan; the old mosque of Chármenán, the -mosque of Abbás the first, and the great mosque, so large that from the -great gate to the mihráb opposite, a man can hardly be distinguished. - - -_Colleges of Tabríz._ - -There are forty-seven large Colleges, where lectures are held on all -sciences; the first is that of the lady of Sháh Jihán: and twenty -rooms for reading the Korán (Dár-ul-kira) but they read it wrong -throughout all Persia. There are seven houses for reading tradition -(Dár-ul-hadíth), but the doctors of tradition are not much renowned, -because they confine themselves to the tradition of Alí and the twelve -Imáms, and have some thousand books on the traditions of Alí alone; -six hundred schools, where boys are taught to spell and read the -Korán, and are clothed once a year; one hundred and sixty convents of -dervishes; six fountains, which all issue from mount Semendán. The town -is besides furnished with seven canals of water, and there are one -thousand and forty Sebíls, or places for distributing water, which -are well covered. The town is divided into one thousand and sixty -quarters which are called Derveze. The water magazine (serdáb) which -was cleaned by Uzdemir Páshá furnishes the water of the canals. One -thousand and seventy palaces of great men, two hundred caravánseraïs, -seventy kháns for merchants and one hundred and ten for single workmen; -seven thousand market streets (Súk) many of which are vaulted like -those of Haleb; and a great Bezestán, which is the seat of the richest -merchants, with four iron gates. - - -_Praise of the Air and Climate._ - -By the mildness of the climate the inhabitants are all healthy and -stout, with red cheeks and black beards, merry faces, and lips like -rose-buds; the women are pretty, and conscious of the fairness of their -skins are extremely proud; those advanced in age are of sweet company, -so that the proverb, “the old is sweeter than the young,” may well be -applied to them. The inhabitants are all Shiís or Mulhad (impious), -a great number are Dumbúlí, Khaljání, Turcomans, and Gokdúlák. There -are two thousand Ulemás, amongst whom are excellent doctors, surgeons -and oculists. There are more than seven thousand pious Sheiks, who are -much esteemed in this town, the inhabitants never do any thing without -consulting them, but their sect is not exactly known. Eighty-two most -eloquent poets, authors of Diváns. Yárí and Shábí are the Saíb and Unfí -of their time. Of the Mujazib or Santons (Saint fools) we saw Sherímí, -whom no person ever saw eating, drinking, lying down, sleeping, or -performing any of the natural offices of life for seventy years. The -Persians are generally called Kizil-básh or red heads, because they -wrap red sashes round their heads, though many of them also wear the -Mohammedan white turban; but the cap is always pointed, and that of the -Ulemás, which is called Táj, or crown, is more than two yards long. The -great men wear sable. - - -_Account of the Persian Crown (Táj)._ - -The shape is founded on a dream of Ibrahím, the founder of the dynasty -of Sefí; he dreamt that he bore a child to an ass, that had seventy -fingers. This dream having been interpreted as foreshadowing the -Empire, he swore, that if it should be fulfilled, he would commemorate -the circumstance, by wearing an asinine phallus in his turban, and by -imitating the cries of the animal in music. This is the reason why the -Persian crown and head-dress have the present shape, and why their -music resembles the braying of an ass. - -The purity of the air drives away all fevers, and prolongs life to -the age of one hundred and seventy years. The water issues from mount -Semenden, and is distributed into more than nine hundred conduits and -pipes, which furnish the town with water. The water aids digestion, and -like the air is rather cold. There is also good water in wells, but -the water of the canals is better; some of the wells are from forty to -fifty cubits deep, in the summer their water is cold, and in the winter -it is warm. Astrologers say that Tabríz was built by Zobeide, under the -influence of the sign of the scorpion when ruled by Mars, and that for -this reason, it has been so many times disturbed and ruined by rebels -and by conquerors, such as Timúr, Gengíz, Húlagú, and Murad IV. - -There are twenty-one pleasant baths each with one or two basins, a half -soffa, and fountains (jets d’eaux). The attendants are fine youths, the -water and air are excellent. Besides the public baths there are seven -hundred private ones, where the silver-bodied youth swim like angels of -the sea. On the china or fayence of these baths, is written the famous -poem of Fozúlí, called the poem of the bath (Kassideí Hamám). There are -seven sorts of corn growing at Tabríz, besides an abundance of barley. -There are also seven sorts of cotton. - - -_Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c._ - -Painters, architects, goldsmiths, and tailors are nowhere to be found -so perfect as here. Precious stuffs manufactured here go all over the -world; the velvet is much renowned. The provisions consist of the white -bread called Kerde, and Súmún, cracknels, pastry, roasts, chicken pies, -forty different kinds of pilaw with spices, the Herisse and sweetmeat, -Palúde. Among the abundance of delicious fruits are particularly the -pears and exquisite apricots, they are not found in such perfection -even at Constantinople. The beverages consist of seven sorts of Muscat -wine, the common wine of the Royal grape, the pomegranate, the cherry -wine, and oxymel; and for the common people búza of millet and rice. - -There are some dining establishments for the poor, such as the Imáret -of Sháh Yakúb, of Sultán Motevekel, of Lady Zobeide, and of Sultán -Hassan, large buildings with kitchens worthy that of Keikavús, but in -the hands of the Persians they have all decayed. - -The principal walk is the mount Surkháb (Red-water) near Tabríz; at -noon the sea of Rúmie may be distinguished from the top of it; it is at -a farsang distance from Tabríz. - -The number of gardens amounts to forty-seven thousand, the finest is -that of Sháh Yakúb, where the Khán gave me a splendid entertainment. -Eleven times in the day, seventy dancers and singers exerted themselves -in the practice of their art, so that it resembled an evening party -of Hossein Bikara. This garden owes its origin to Koja Ferhád Páshá, -Governor of Tabríz under Sultán Murad III., who adorned it with -numerous koshks, bowers and pleasure-houses; and at the time of the -pillage of the town by Murad IV., this garden was preserved by the care -of Osmán Aghá. The Chronostic of the koshk where we dined, alluding to -the name of the builder, says that, Ferhád built this sweet (Shirín) -palace. The walk of Sháh Sefí cannot be praised enough. It is the -place of the Maïl; in the centre of it two immense columns lift their -tops up to Heaven; on one of them every Friday a silver plate is put, -which is aimed at by all the bowmen, who shoot at it, encouraged by -the presence of the Khán. On New Year’s day (Nevrúz) or the beginning -of spring, battles are fought in this place by horses trained in the -dark during forty or fifty days, by camels, buffaloes, sheep, asses, -dogs, and cocks. These fights are peculiar to Persia. Every year on -the tenth of the month Moharrem, being the feast of A’ashúra, all the -population of the town assemble under tents in this large place, and -during three days and nights cook many thousand dishes of A’ashúra (a -kind of hotch-potch), in remembrance of the martyrs of Kerbela; these -dishes are distributed with an abundance of sugar-sherbet, which is -carried round in crystal vases, and cups of cornelian and turquoise: -at the same time singing certain verses, such as “Their Lord gave them -of the purest beverage.” Some of the great men on this day carry cans -and tankards round their necks, and go about distributing water like -common porters. But the finest show is in the variegated tent of the -Khán, where all the great men of Tabríz are assembled, and where a Hymn -on the death of Hossein is recited, in the same manner as the Hymn on -the Prophet’s birthday is in the Turkish mosques. The hearers listen, -sighing and lamenting, but when the reciter arrives at the passage -where Hossein is killed by accursed Shabr, a curtain opens behind him, -and a severed head and trunk of a body, representing that of the Imám -when dead, is thrown on the ground, when there rises such an uproar of -cries and lamentations that everybody loses his wits. At this moment -some hundred men mingle in the crowd with razors, with which they cut -the arms and breasts of all loving believers, who desire to shed their -blood on this day in remembrance of the blood shed by the Imám; they -make such deep incisions and scars, that the ground appears as if it -was blooming with tulips. Some thousands brand the marks and names of -Hassan and Hossein on their heads, arms, and breasts. They then carry -Hossein’s body away from the ground with much pomp, and finish the -ceremony with great howlings. - -The town has numerous fine walks and pleasure grounds, each of which -may be compared to the gardens of Ispúze and Merám. The beautiful -koshks worthy to be the seats of Sherín and Ferhád, of Wámik and Azra, -are every where renowned; but I must refrain from their praise and -description, as I have yet so many other things to mention. God be -thanked! I remained here two months, which I spent in full pleasure -and delight, and I shall now give the description of the districts and -castles, which I visited in the Khán’s company. Round Tabríz are seven -districts, which furnish military men, whose office is to train birds -and dogs for hunting. - -The first is the district of Mehránrúd, five farsangs to the east of -Tabríz, the three places Koraúkendrút, Isfenj-kent, and Sa’ád-abád are -like large towns, with numerous mosques, kháns and baths. The second -district is that of Sera-vurúd on the west side of Tabríz; containing -eighty well cultivated villages. The third district is that of Dídeher, -four farsangs south-west of Tabríz, twenty-four kents with mosques, -kháns, baths and gardens. The fourth district is that of Ardenik, on -the west side of Tabríz at only a farsang’s distance; thirty well -cultivated villages. The fifth district is that of Rúdkát behind -mount Sorkháb, and north of Tabríz, at a farsang’s distance from it; -a hundred great kents with gardens, mosques, markets, &c. The sixth -district, that of Khánumrúd; twenty elegant villages. The seventh, that -of Bedostán behind Rúdkát; seventy villages. If I were to describe -minutely all the hunting and pleasure parties on which I accompanied -the Sháh for the space of twenty days, it would alone fill a book, -because Tabríz is like Isfahán, one of the finest towns in the world. -God grant its possession to the Ottomans, and keep it from ruin! - - -_Account of a curious Conversation._ - -One day being in company with the Sháh he presented me with the purest -wine. I said, “By God! with God! through God! and by Ali’s purest -spirit, since I was born I never drank wine or any other spirituous -liquor, and since our great ancestor Khoja Ahmed Yessúí, none of our -family have ate or drank any thing of an intoxicating quality. I beg, -therefore, to be excused by you.” The Khán said, “My beloved and -darling brother, what are you afraid of; if it is of your Emperor, he -is five months journey from you; if it is of your Khán (the Páshá), -it is forty days distance from Erzerúm to Tabríz. The Khán of the -Sháh of Irán and the dog of Alí, my Sháh, has expressly forbidden me -to drink a drop of wine; what do I care for that, I drink it secretly -and delight in it; follow my example.” I said, “Very well, my Khán, -if your Sháh has prohibited it to you, it is prohibited to me by the -express command of the Sháh of Sháhs, the Lord of Lords, who says -in the Korán, ‘wine, gaming and fortune-telling are Satan’s work:’ -it is of this Lord, that I am afraid.” “You are,” said the Khán, “a -rigorous Methodist (Mutea-assib).” “By God!” replied I, “I am no -Methodist but only a true follower of the orthodox sect of Na’amán Ben -Thábet, and a true lover of the Prophet’s family.” At this reply the -whole company became silent, the Khán rose up with all his youthful -attendants, and sitting down close to me, he said, “My dear Evliyá -Aghá, which of these my favourite servants would you like to have, I -will make you a present of him if you drink a cup of wine out of his -hand. Come drink a glass, if you love red Alí and the twelve Imáms; -let us be warm of head and tender of heart, let us enjoy a moment of -delight in this perishable world.” So saying, all the youths came to -salute me, and I returned their salutes; yet did I implore at the same -time Heaven’s assistance, and then said, in answer to his further -pressing requests; “You drink wine to get into good humour, but the -first thing is to be good-humoured in God; I beg you will let me have -a half-drum to accompany my own song, in order to show you how people -get good-humoured in God.” “Be it so,” said he, “for Alí’s sake bring a -half-drum to Evliyá, my brother;” I took it, and sang three tetrastichs -on Divine Love, in the tune Sigáh, which made all the hearers appear as -though they were drunk. The Khán, being extremely pleased, invested me -with his own sable pelisse, gave me a thousand praises, and a Georgian -slave as a present, ten tománs of Abbássí, and a racehorse (Karajubúk). -“Now,” said he, “I will not plague you any more with a request to drink -wine,” and I continued to enjoy his conversation undisturbed during a -whole month, feasting every night. I spent this time observing all that -was worth seeing at Tabríz, the good order and government of which is -worthy of all possible recommendation. The inhabitants are merry, but -orderly people, and I never saw a drunkard in the streets. It is in -their praise that the verse was composed, which says, “The people of -Tabríz, though given to pleasure, are as pure as the glass of a mirror; -and if you say they are not true to friends, you must know that the -mirror only reflects the object before it as it really appears.” - - -_General Praise of Tabríz._ - -The first and most agreeable properties of Tabríz is the abundance -of water, by which means the streets are washed and cleansed from -all dust, as though it was continually New Year’s day. The second -praiseworthy circumstance is, that the Sherífs or descendants of -Mohammed do not give their daughters indiscriminately to servants, -but only to their equals. They proposed the following nice point to -me, saying:—“You take Infidel girls as women, because you say that -the man plants the seed, and that is very well; but you also give -your own daughters to Moslíms, who were first Infidels and afterwards -converted; now if this new Moslím relapses into his former error, -what then becomes of the children, who though their mother be a true -descendant of the Prophet, may become apostates and fly into the land -of the Infidels?” I answered, with the tradition of the Prophet, which -says, “that even the children of Christians and Jews are born true -Moslims, but that they are afterwards seduced into error by their -parents.” There was no reply to that. The third good thing is that all -sales are transacted with Persian money coined in the country, and that -no foreign coin is received. Money is coined in seven towns, viz. at -Erdebíl, Hamadán, Baghdád, Isfahán, Tiflís, Nehávend, and Tabríz. The -inscription on one side is, “There is no God, but God, and Mohammed -is the Prophet, and Alí the friend of God;” on the reverse is the -name of the Sháh, with the epithet of Alí’s dog: their small coins or -pennies are called Kázikí, they bear only the place of the coinage on -one side, and the date of the year on the other: on their measures and -weights are also written the words, “There is no God but God,” and -who dares to cheat in the name of God is blinded by a heated stone -drawn over his eyes. Before their shops and markets, scales of yellow -brass are suspended, which are never taken away, but always remain, -and all eatables and drinkables are sold by weight according to the -fixed market prices; even corn and wheat are sold by weight. The fourth -good things are the cookshops, fitted-up with china and furnished with -plates of the same material; they are opened with prayer as usual in -the morning, and then filled with all kinds of pilaws, and stewed meat -(Herisse), which are also sold by weight. The waiters, clean and smart, -stand with pewter dishes under their arms, on which are inscriptions -like the following: “No nobility above the Islám;” “The nobility of the -place depends upon who occupies it;” “The nobility of the house depends -upon its inhabitants; and the nobility of the inhabitants upon their -generosity.” After dinner these waiters bring clean basins and cans for -washing, but vulgar people (Tolúnkí and Tokir) wipe their right hand -under their left shoulder, and their left hand under the right. - - -_Bad and reprehensible things in Irán._ - -It is a bad custom in Persia that only twelve classes of the troops -and as many of the Ulemás and the other ranks of society are allowed -to have regular kitchens in their houses; all the rest eat from the -market, therefore, although their dinner is cheap it is very bad. The -army has its cooks, who cook in that way at a fixed price, so that they -are not allowed to take a grain more or to furnish a grain less than -the established quantity. When the army takes the field, the kitchen is -established in tents made of felt. - -Another bad thing in Persia is that they do not kill or hang their -delinquents, but the Darogha and Mohtessíb (two officers of police), -bring them to the public place, where the executioners torment them -in a most cruel manner; during three days and nights, they inflict on -them three hundred and sixty different kinds of torture. They first -give them three hundred strokes of the whip and Korbáj, press their -knees, introduce reeds under their nails, cauterize the whole body with -fire, force them to swallow greasy rags with a rope attached, which if -dragged out again brings the stomach and bowels with it; nail their -hands and feet down, bore holes in the elbows and knees, and then pour -melted lead in the holes so that the lead runs out with the marrow: -they tie the four first fingers and toes tight together, suspend the -delinquent and perfume him with sulphur and asses’ urine, so that the -poor men’s cries pierce the skies; they cut pieces out of the back, and -attach burning candles to the shoulders; they squeeze the testicles, -tickle the nose with pointed thorns, put iron kettles on the head, and -blind the eyes; and inflict even more horrible tortures than those -already described. God forgive us our sins! They paralyse thieves by -cutting the sinews. They cut off the ears, noses, and hands and feet -of false witnesses, and fasten other delinquents to seven different -kinds of gibbets and pales, and leave them so exposed during three -days and nights. The Khán having one day glorified himself with these -cruel tortures, in my presence, I asked him, “What was the object of -such manifold cruelties;” he said, “That death being pronounced on -these culprits, the tortures were added, in order to terrify others by -the example.” I said, “That it was not lawful, because the text of the -Korán states no other punishment for thieves but cutting off the hand, -and retaliation in cases of murder; and that this was quite sufficient -to keep the people in terror and awe.” He was obliged to acknowledge -that I was right. These additional tortures have been contrived by -them, because their people are all riotous and heretical, that they may -be kept in order the easier. So they established it as law. - - -_Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz._ - -In the cemeteries are many places of pilgrimage of great and holy men. -In the cemetery of Súrkháb are the tombs of poets, such as Enwerí, -Khakání, Zahír-ud-dín Faryábí, Felekí of Shíráz, and Felekí of Shirván. - -Of Saints buried in the neighbouring villages, there are, in the -village of Gúchúchán the Saint Khoja Mohammed Gúchúchání; in the -village of Sabádabád, no less than seven hundred learned writers. -Essáma Ben Sherík, the Prophet’s companion is buried near Tabríz on -the martyrs’ mount; and Sárut-ul Jebel, the brother of Hamza, who was -carried wounded from the battle of Nehávend to Tabríz, died here. The -Sheikh Sejid-ján Memí, a writer deeply versed in ancient and modern -sciences and in mystics. On mount Súrkháb, two children of Alí are -buried; in the quarter of Serde the place is shown where Efasiáb’s head -is buried. Sheikh Nassr-allah, the son of Ak-Shems-ud-dín. It would be -too long to describe all the monuments which exist at Tabríz, and we -contented ourselves with these. - - -_Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám -Gházán._ - -We left Tabríz accompanied by one thousand horse, and after a march -of five hours through flowery gardens came to Kent Ajisú, half way to -Kúmla, two hundred houses with gardens belonging to the Khán’s khass, a -mosque and three convents. The waters of this plain are subterraneous, -flowing from village to village, and there are some thousand wells on -the great roads, this place is called A’jisú (bitter water) because -its water is a little brackish. We continued our road next day to the -burying-place of Mohammed Shám Gházán; it is called so because this -country bears great resemblance to Damascus (Shám). Mohammed Gházán -Sháh built this castle, and peopled it with from ten to twelve thousand -subjects free from all duties and gifts. He then built this monument, -which has no equal either in Arabia or in Persian Irák, it is a tower -lifting its head to the skies like that of Galata. When I saw it, it -was a little damaged on the side of the gate by an earthquake; it is a -monument well worth seeing. I entered it with the Khán, said a Fátíhah, -and read the inscription on the marble coffin. More than two hundred -Dervishes inhabit the convent; outside of the gate, piles of sheep’s -heads are erected, many thousand sheep being immolated here by the -inhabitants of Persia, who have great confidence in this place; a well -ten yards deep affords refreshing water in summer. - -The name of Shám Gházán is a corruption of the Moghol language, in -which this Prince is called Shanb, whence Shám originated. The castle -which bears his name on Mount Welián is now in ruins. At the foot of -it is the Kent-Welián consisting of three hundred houses with a fine -mosque, khán and bath, founded by the Vezír Rashíd-ud-dín Dembolí. We -reached after five hours from hence, the Castle of Kúmla, built by Koja -Ferhád Páshá, the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. in the year 998 (1589), -it is a square castle at the foot of Mount Welián. It is eighty paces -in circumference, has seven towers, and two gates, one to the east and -one to the west; the eastern one is that leading to Tabríz. It was -from this place that Ja’afer Páshá, when besieged by the troops in -rebellion, made a sally at night, and completely routed the rebels. He -afterwards built this gate. Within the castle are seven hundred houses -and a mosque; the suburb forms the town of Kúmla, which abounds in -gardens; the grapes and pears of Kúmla are much celebrated. There are -seventy mosques, eleven of which are Jamiís (wherein Friday prayer is -said), the best is that of Ferhád Páshá. It is the seat of a Sultán -subordinate to Tabríz. A Kelenter and Darogha keep public order; a -Sultán is here the same as in Turkey a Sanjek Beg, and a Begler Beg is -called a Khán; a Vezír of three tails is called Itimád-ud-devlet; a -Commander-in-chief (Serdár) is here named Sipehsalár; Múnshí answers -to the Turkish Reis Efendí; Kelenter is the same as Alaï Beg, that is -to say Colonel of the Militia, and Darogha is the same as Súbashí or -Lieutenant of police; the head of the Chaúshes or ushers here takes -the name of Yessaúl Aghá, and the Aghá of the Dízchoken is the same -as an Aghá of the janissaries in Turkey. The names of Kúrúji, chief -of the forest guards, and Mihmándár or travelling commissary, are -common both to Turkey and Persia. We advanced from hence five hours -to the district of Serawerd, a great Kent north-west of Tabríz, with -a mosque, khán, and bath. We were entertained here during a whole -night by the Kelenter, and continued our journey next day, hunting -along the river Serawerd to the Kent-Dúsht, where we dined and halted -a little. We proceeded for six hours to the Kent-Jevlán Dorúk in the -district of Serawerd on the river of that name, with one thousand -houses, a bath and mosque. Further on is the Kent of Kánidlis, three -hundred Moslim houses and a mosque; the Armenians have three churches -and three thousand houses. Three hours further is the Kent-Lákid, the -khass of Rokhsháh’s Lady; the inhabitants are Armenian weavers, there -are two thousand houses, a mosque, a khán, and three convents; on the -mount of Serawerd stands a ruined castle. The Kent of Kujabád has five -hundred houses, a khán, a mosque and a bath. We now went eastward to -the district of Rudkát on the north of Tabríz behind mount Sorkháb, a -district of a hundred Kents, which we passed in hunting during three -days. - - -_Description of Merágha._ - -It is the seat of a Sultán commanding a thousand troops, and has a -Judge, Kelenter, Darogha and Múnshi; it was built in the earliest time -by Húshenk-sháh, and is the first town of Azerbeiján and its ancient -capital, surrounded with fruitful gardens, eleven farsangs distant from -Tabríz; eleven mosques, forty kháns, sixty mesjíds, forty convents of -Dervishes, eleven baths and three thousand shops. The inhabitants are -all weavers, who manufacture excellent Bogassin. The beautiful youth of -both sexes at Merágha are everywhere renowned. The town has risen from -its ruins since the havoc it suffered from the army of Sultán Murad -III. Its builder in the time of Islám was Merván Ibn Mohammed Al-Himár, -in whose time it extended to Mount Sehend and comprised seventy -thousand houses; but since it was destroyed by the Moghols in Húlagú’s -time, the buildings are at some distance from Mount Sehend, which as it -intercepted the north wind, was the reason that the air of its former -situation was so heavy. The water, however, issues from the mountain, -and abundantly furnishes the houses and gardens. Its pomegranates and -cotton are famous, the inhabitants are white and gazelle-eyed, of sweet -words and shining faces; a great part of them secretly follow the -orthodox rite of Hánefí. They mostly speak Pehleví; the whole country -is divided into eight districts, viz.: Serajún, Penajún, Jerút, Kaodúl, -Hestrúd, Behsánd, Engúrán, and Kizilorán; each district containing -from eighty to one hundred cultivated kents; altogether five hundred -and sixty kents, sixty towns, and seven castles; the description of -which, if we could undertake it in detail, would alone fill a volume. -We left Meragha and entered the district of Túrnachairí, wherein the -town of Aján is situated; the kent of Petiker of one thousand houses is -situated in this district. - - -_Description of Aján._ - -On the east side of mount Aján a large town was built by Peshen the -son of Keiúmerth, and, being ransacked by Húlagú, fell into decay, so -that all its inhabitants were transferred to Tabríz; it was rebuilt by -Gházán, who also built a castle of two thousand paces in circumference -on the edge of the mountain, with an iron gate opening to the east; -within it are one hundred houses, but no garrison, outside there are -three thousand houses, seven mosques, three baths, seven kháns, and -six hundred shops. The water comes from mount Aján; the inhabitants -are Sháfiítes, but keep their doctrine secret, they are merry fellows -(Ehl meshreb), and no rigourists (Ehl mezheb). The Armenians have two -convents. After having seen the town we continued our journey, hunting, -to the district of Mehránberúd, five farsangs to the east of Tabríz, -of sixty great kents. We passed those of Werd, Isfej and Saídabád, -built by a Vezír of that name in the time of Sultán Tahmurass, a large -kent of two thousand houses, seven mosques, a khán and bath, which -was ransacked by Sultán Súleimán in his way to Baghdád, but escaped -the havoc of Sultán Murad. We remained one night here and next day -proceeded seven hours towards the south-east to the Kent of Mán, built -by Máhkúr the daughter of Khodabende; nine hours further we arrived at -the castle of Kehreván built by Sháh Tahmáss, out of fear of Sultán -Súleimán. At the time of the expedition of Kojá Ferhád Páshá, as soon -as he arrived at Baghdád, he sent the General Solák Ferhád Páshá -against this place, who besieged the castle in vain during seventeen -days. This Khán Meimendí made continual inroads, till at Tabríz he was -completely routed by Ja’afer Páshá of Tabríz, who took seven thousand -heads and five thousand prisoners from him. The next day Ja’afer set -out with seventy thousand men for the siege of Kehreván, which was -taken on the third day. Meimendí being brought into the presence -of Ja’afer Páshá, his ear was cut off, his property confiscated and -himself hanged at the gate of the castle, the keys of which were -sent to Sultán Murad; there is even now a mosque named after Sultán -Murad: it remained eleven years in the hands of the Ottomans. It is -situated on a hill on the road to Baghdád; it is six thousand paces -in circumference, and has two gates, one to the south, and one to the -north; its Sultán commands one thousand men. The suburb consists of -seven thousand well-terraced houses, and sixty mosques, in eleven of -which public prayer is performed on Friday, seven baths, eleven kháns, -and eight hundred shops; the sheets and blankets manufactured here -are celebrated. We advanced seven hours further eastward, to a large -kent embellished by a mosque of Jíghála’s son; and nine hours further -on we arrived at the large town of Erdebíl, the first residence of -the Persian Sháhs of the Safí dynasty. It has been taken and retaken -several times by both Ottomans and Persians, and is now the seat of a -Khán, who commands three thousand men; it is a day’s journey from mount -Seilán, and is surrounded by high mountains at the same distance; it -lies in a fertile valley close to a lake. It was built by an Armenian -King in fear of Omar’s power, in the same year that Sáriet-ul-jebel -was sent to Nehavend; this is one of the principal reasons why Omar -is so much hated by the Persians, who do not show so much dislike to -Abúbekr and Osmán. This town formerly extended as far as mount Seilán, -from which it is now two farsangs distant; the farsang is equal to -twelve thousand ordinary paces, so that two farsangs are equal to -twenty-four thousand paces. The top of Seilán is always covered with -snow, which shines like silver in the middle of summer, and furnishes -all the water of the town; it is a very digestive water, which enables -the inhabitants to feast like Ma’adikarb. The inhabitants pretend to -be Sháfiítes; they are great liars. The distance between Tabríz and -Erdebíl is twenty-five farsangs, which with a good horse may be gone -over in two days. The climate much resembles that of Erzerúm; hard -winter, and a fruitful soil, the corn multiplying eighty fold: there -are no fruit-trees and vines, but gardens for vegetables and rosebeds. - -The lake near Tabríz on the east side is covered with many hundred -fishing-boats, on the west it is but a farsang’s distance from Rúmie; -between Erdebíl and the lake the country is covered with wood, and -villages are interspersed in the forest; there are seventy sorts of -fish; the boats on the lake also trade to Rúmie, Dúmdúmí and Dúmbúlí; -the circumference of this lake is greater than that of Wán, a man may -go round it in ten days; the water of the lake of Wán is bitter as -poison, but this is sweet as the water of life. Its depth is seventy -cubits. This lake was produced on the birthnight of the prophet, when -the vault of Chosroes, and that of Ayá Sófiyah, and the idols of Mecca -fell down by an earthquake; forty-five large and small springs flow -into it; the river Seilán which affords water to Erdebíl, the river -Kuherán and others fall into this sea. On the banks of the river Seilán -lies a large round mass of iron, three quintals in weight, extremely -well polished, on which ancient philosophers have written a kind of -Hebrew inscription with a figure lifting its two arms up to Heaven; if -rain is wanted this stone is carried in procession into the town, and -it never fails to rain day and night without ceasing till the stone is -replaced. The basis on which this marvellous stone reposes is a large -rock, covered with strange inscriptions; it also has twelve holes, from -which as soon as the iron mass is rolled away, water begins to rush -forth, and ceases not until the stone is returned to its place. Some -persons assert this to be the stone which Moses struck in the desert, -others believe that this miracle is performed in favour of Sheikh -Safí; be it as it may, it is a great talisman. Erdebíl is famous for -its immense number of mice which are great destroyers of cloth. Cats -are, therefore, so dear that they are sold in cages by public auction; -some of Dívrígui fetch the price of a hundred piastres, but they are -short-lived like all cats of Erdebíl. The cryers at the auction call -out; “A good hunting cat, well bred, a good companion, an enemy to -rats, which steals not!” - - -_Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl._ - -The first of all is the tomb of Sheikh Safí, the son of Sheikh Khoja -Alí, the son of Sheikh Sadr-ud-dín Mússa, the son of Sheikh Safr-ud-dín -Abú Ishák of Erdebíl, the founder of the dynasty of the Safís. His -tomb-keepers are some hundred dervishes, a large foundation. Sheikh -Safí governed only in a spiritual sense; his son Hyder was his -successor, and Ibrahím the son of Hyder having dreamt of concubinage -with an ass, his possession of the Empire was foretold by his grandsire -Sheikh Safí; indeed Sheikh Ibrahím was the first who enjoyed the rights -of sovereignty; from Sheikh Safí to Sháh Abbás are five Sháhs who -coined money. We left Erdebíl, marched nine hours further to the north, -and came to Kent Rarám, a kent of six hundred houses with gardens; -eight hours further we came to the Kent Yár Alí, three hundred houses, -a mosque, no khán or bath, but a large number of shops and a weekly -market; six hours further to the north, the Kent of Merzáde Amád in -the district of Dídher, eight hundred houses. After eight hours, we -arrived at Tabríz again, where I remained some days more, passing from -one entertainment to another. Letters were now written for the kháns -and commanders of the places I was to pass through on my return, and -the letter of the Khán to the Páshá made ready. The presents sent to -him consisted of ten camel loads of rice, dried raisins, dried pears, -pomegranates, and two racehorses of the breed Karajubúk, four trotting -horses, and two boys dressed in precious cloth perfumed with musk. To -me he gave ten tománs Abbássí, a Georgian slave, a Persian pelisse, a -Persian dress, six turbans, and a string of camels, loaded with rice, -a black horse of the race Karajubúk, a trotting one (Chapár-átí), with -Persían bridle and saddle. I took leave of all my friends, and next -day left Tabríz in grand procession with the khán, accompanied by the -Royal music of trumpets and kettle drums. We halted at the place Ain -Alí, where a grand dinner, and five tománs Abbássí more, were given to -me for the expenses of the journey. My suite received twenty tománs of -aspers, a piece of velvet, three of Alas, and six turbans. The Khán -recommended me to the care of a Yessavúl Aghá, who was to escort me -with three hundred men, embraced me, and returned to Tabríz, while we -took the road to Eriván. - - - - -JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN. - - -In God’s name we set out from Tabríz to the north, and reached the Kent -Hají Harámí, of three hundred houses surrounded with rose gardens; -a foundation of Shám Ghazán, whose tomb may be seen from hence. The -next day the Kelenter took leave, and we continued our way to Kent -Safián, which was formerly a great kent, but has since been ruined -by the Mogols and still more by Sultán Murad IV., it is a delightful -place on the territory of Tabríz. Some learned men and writers are -buried here, but I don’t know their names; there are more than twenty -cupolas. In the month of Moharrem on the day of A’ashúra, the feast in -commemoration of the murder of Hossein is celebrated here with great -pomp, the people are all Sháfiítes. Further to the north we reached -Mezídkhán on the frontiers of Tabríz; five hundred houses covered -with terraces, two mosques, a very spacious khán, a bath and royal -market-place. Seven hours more to the northward is the station of Kent -Keremish, on the frontier or Nakhshiván; a thousand houses, seven -mosques, a khán and bath. Our way now led northward through marshy -grounds, and we pitched our tents on the borders of Wishlechaí. This -river issues from the mountains of Nahkshiván and joins the Aras. We -suffered much from dust here, and after two hours travelling reached -the castle of Khúí, a fine town of Azerbeiján, the seat of a Sultán, -who commands a thousand men; the public authorities are a judge, -Muftí, Darogha, Kelenter, Nakíb, Múnshí, Kúrújí and Dízchoken Aghá. -The castle is built in a square form on the plain, its circumference -is seven hundred paces; the ditch is not very deep. Of its two gates -one leads to the south, the other to the west; it contains a hundred -houses and a mosque. Its builder was Ferhád Páshá, but the old town -was built by Sháh Haider, and it has been sacked more than once since. -This suburb or outer town consists of seven thousand houses with -terraces, seventy mosques, eleven of which are Jamis, two baths, seven -kháns, and a thousand shops with gardens. I and my boys measured the -circumference, which is ten thousand paces. The air is rather warm -and favorable therefore to the culture of rice. The river issues from -Mount Selmás, and flows into the Araxes. The fruits are famous, above -all the Prophet-pears, which have no equal in sweetness and delicious -taste. Owing to the mildness of the climate, the inhabitants are all -white, and the women are innumerable. Some historians call this town -Asháristán, Iránistán or Turkistán. Its districts reckon one hundred -and eighty villages, the inhabitants of which are for the most part -Sunnites, Sháfiítes, who paid a capitation tax to Sháh Ismail for the -privilege of letting their beards grow (Sakál Túlí), but have been -exempted since the time of Sháh Sefí. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí._ - -He died in the year 495 on his way from Antiochia to Isfahán, in this -town of Khúí. After a stay of two days, we continued our journey with -two hundred armed guards to the north, and arrived at the end of nine -hours at the town of Behestán, the seat of a Kelenter. It was anciently -a town of the size of Tabríz but was ruined by Húlagú; it is now a -small place of a thousand houses, three mosques, a khán, bath and small -market, with innumerable gardens. Three hours further northward, we -reached the castle of Joris on the frontier of Nakshiván; the seat of -a khán, who commands two thousand troops, a judge and twelve public -officers in honour of the twelve Imáms. The castle, a pentagon, is -situated on a hill, simply walled and therefore not very strong. It -was first built by Uzún Hassan the Sháh of Azerbeiján and was ruined -by Murád IV. its ruined parts are now chalked off [fenced off?] like a -Palanka. Though situated on a hill, yet the hill itself is at the foot -of a high mountain. It has a gate looking to the south-east; within the -castle there is no remarkable building but the mosque of Rúshen Hassan -Páshá. The outer town consists of seven thousand houses, and eleven -mosques, of which that of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá and Ferrúkh-zadeh Sháh -Ibn Timúr are the best; there are three mosques, seven kháns, and two -hundred shops. The young people are extremely pretty, with eyes like -the roes of Khoten, sweet-tongued with merry faces, who, if they walk -dressed in red embroidered dresses, like peacocks of Paradise, make all -their lovers lose their wits, and by half a look make as many Mejnúns -of them. We spent three days and nights here with Eyúb Khán the Khán -of the town, continually entertained by music. On the fourth day we -continued our journey, after having been overwhelmed with presents. - -We now passed on towards the east where the river of Karajubúk issues -from the mountains of Joris, and then joins the Araxes; in the summer -months this river may be crossed by sheep and goats. We advanced to -the north amidst Kents for four hours to Kent Hallí, on the frontier -of Eriván; five hundred houses with gardens, a mosque and a bath, -on the banks of the Hallí river, which issues from the mountains of -Sepend and joins the Aras. Passing on to the north through woods, -we came after eight hours march to the pleasant meadow of Tútolúmí, -where there are some hundred shady trees, but no village. The Daroghas -and Kelenters of the neighbouring kents flocked together to furnish -us with necessary provisions. We passed one night here, and next day -continued our journey along the Aras, crossed it, and came to Kent -Kagáj situated on the eastern bank of the Aras; it has a mosque, a -khán, a bath, and three hundred houses, with a great number of rice -fields. We passed through sandy ground with great dust, nine hours to -the north, and reached Kent Ashárlí in the territory of Eriván, with a -thousand houses, a mosque, a khán, and a bath; its product is rice; it -takes its name from the inhabitants, who belong to the tribe Ashárlí. -Travelling along the Aras through well cultivated fields and gardens, -we reached after seven hours the town of Shúreglí, the seat of a -Sultán, who commands one thousand horsemen; there is a mosque, a khán -and a bath. After ten hours we came to Sheráb Khán with five hundred -houses, a mosque and a khán; then to Kent Seif-ud-dín on the frontier -of Eriván, and on the banks of the Aras, it was built by Seifkúlí the -Khán of Eriván, and belongs to the khass of Eriván, there are a hundred -and eighty houses, a mosque, and some plantations of rice. Five hours -further to the north along the Aras is the Kent Tílfirák, of a thousand -houses, a mosque, a convent, a khán, a bath, and plantations of rice. -At the time of the siege of Eriván, Murad IV. cut down seventy thousand -trees which were used as bulwarks, but since that time an immense -number of trees have grown again. We sent a message from hence to the -Khán of Eriván, next day crossed a lively river, halted on a meadow, -and met a great procession (Alaï,) which was the Kiaya of the Khán of -Eriván who was sent to meet us (Istikbál); we made our entrance into -Eriván with him, were saluted by twenty guns, and lodged in a palace of -the Khán. Hassan Beg went on from hence with the letters and presents -of the Khán of Tabríz to Erzerúm, and I occupied myself in delivering -those for the Khán of Eriván. - - -_Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván)._ - -In the year 810 (1407) Khoja Khán Lejchání, a rich merchant of Timúr’s -suite settled here with all his family and servants, cultivating -plantations of rice, by which means a great Kent was soon formed. -Five years later Sháh Ismail gave to Reván Kúl, one of his Kháns, an -order to build a castle here, which being finished in seven years, was -named after him, Reván or Eriván. It is situated on the eastern bank -of the Zenghí river, and is of brick and stone. In the year 995 (1586) -Súleimán Khán, having undertaken the expedition against Nakhshiván, -pillaged Eriván, and returned to his residence with immense booty. In -the reign of Murad III. Ferhád Páshá, his general, pillaged Kenje, -Reván, Shamákhí and Nakhshiván, destroyed the palaces of the son of -the Sháh, killed a great number of Persians, fixed his camp before the -castle, and assembled a council of war to deliberate on the siege, and -begun it by digging a ditch on the bank of the Zenghí from south to -north. By the exertion of all the siege was finished in forty days. -Jigálazadeh Yússúf Páshá, who had been bred in the Turkish Harím, -was named the first Commander of Eriván with a garrison of seventy -thousand men. Ferhád Páshá, took care of the repair of the castle of -Shúreglí and Karss, and filled them with Moslim troops. In the same -way the castle of Erdehán and Akhichka were garrisoned, and Ferhád -Páshá returned to Constantinople. Under the government of Jigálazadeh -Yússúf Páshá, the town of Eriván was even in a more flourishing state -than in Súleimán’s time, and the neighbouring villages grew thereby -populous. In the year 1011 (1602), the Persians having usurped the -possession of the castles of the Genge and Shirván, forced the garrison -of Eriván, which had received no succour from Erzerúm, to surrender -to Tokmák Khán, after a siege of seven months; in the year 1037 -(1627), the Khán of Eriván, Emírgúneh, having infested the districts -of Kághzemán, Karss, Cheldir, Akhichka and Erdehán, and complaints -having arrived from the Begs of Georgia and from the Governor of -Erzerúm, ambassadors were sent from the Khán of Persia, and at the -same time the Imperial tails fixed at Scutari as the signal of Asiatic -war. In the following year 1044 (1634) Sultán Murad IV. completed -his Imperial camp of Scutarí according to the canons of the Empire, -with the greatest splendour and pomp, heaped presents upon his forty -thousand janissaries and twenty-two thousand sipáhís, left Bairám -Páshá, Kaima Khám at Constantinople, and moved on the 5th of Shewál -from Scutari, marching over Konia and Kaissarie to Sivás; at which -place he appointed his sword-bearer Mustafa to the office of Second -Vezír, and the sword-bearer Mússa Páshá to the post of Quarter-master -General. The Nishánjí was made Silihdár, and Melek Ahmed, Chokadár -(First Lord in waiting). When he entered Erzerúm report was made -to him, that his army then amounted to two hundred thousand men: -Jánpúlád-zadeh Mustafa Páshá, the governor of Rúmelí, alone mustered -thirty-one thousand men, with seventeen hundred excellent horses; -Khalíl Páshá the Governor of Erzerúm fell into disgrace, to the joy of -his enemies, the Silihdár Páshá and Murteza Páshá; the government of -Erzerúm was conferred on the Governor of Damascus, Kúchúk Ahmed, but -the revenues, as barley-money, were given to Silihdár Mustafa Páshá. -The army marched in three days to Hassan Kala’assí, and from thence by -Karss to Eriván. On the 21st day after having left Erzerúm, the army of -two hundred thousand men fixed its camp before Reván. The river Zenghí -was crossed in spite of the long guns of the Persians, with which they -endeavoured to annoy the Ottoman army. On this occasion it happened -that one of the Soláks (bowmen) of the Sultán’s guard, crossing the -river on foot by the side of the Sultán’s horse, was carried away by -the water, the Sultán having observed it rode after him, caught hold -of him by the necklace and dragged him out of the river; this anecdote -is much celebrated in Persia. The river being crossed, the trenches -were opened, and Jánpúlád-zadeh Páshá entered them with the Rúmelian -troops from the side of the gate of Tabríz; on the right Gúnjí Mahomed -Páshá with the Asiatic troops entered the trenches, and in the midst of -them the grand Vezír Tabání Yassí Mohammed Páshá took his station; the -Aghá of the janissaries Kara Mustafa Páshá, with his Kiaya, battered -the castle day and night with a battery of twenty guns, and similar -batteries were prepared on five sides. One day Sultán Murad himself -entered the trenches of the Rúmelian troops, and fired a good shot -at the Khán’s palace from the gun called Karabálí. The governor of -Erzerúm, Kúchúk Ahmed, battered the castle from the north side, and the -Kapúdán Páshá, Delí Hossein, from the hill of Mohana-depeh. - -Murteza Páshá, with the Sipáhís, were placed as sentinels on the side -of the earth castle, while Mússa and Cana’an Páshá with the Moteferrika -kept guard over the Imperial tent. The castle was surrounded by troops -in the space of five hours, and every day many thousand Sunnís came to -claim mercy. On the ninth day they asked to capitulate, and Emírgúneh -brought the keys. The next day the Persian Aghá of the Fusileers, Mír -Fettáh, was allowed to kiss the Emperor’s feet, and to return with -the garrison to Nakhshiván. Emírgúneh, by birth a Georgian, and Aded -Khán kissed the Emperor’s feet, and each received an Imperial tent as -a present. The Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, all the banners and -standards waving during seven days and nights on the walls; after each -prayer the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was repeated three times, and at -night a great number of candles and lamps were lighted. The castle was -repaired in forty days, and Mustafa Páshá appointed Governor of Eriván, -with forty thousand men as garrison. Sultán Murad appointed the Khán -Emírgúneh first governor of Haleb, but afterwards removed him and gave -the government to Kúchúk Ahmed Páshá. Emírgúneh remained the favourite -of Sultán Murad IV. until the death of the Sultán, when he was killed -by Kara Mustafa Páshá. - -The towns of Shureglí, Joris, Behestán, Khúí, Ordúbárí and Tabríz were -pillaged during seven days and nights, together with the castles of -Bágjenán, Aján, Kuherán, Kúmla, Merend, and Selmás, after which havoc -he returned by Betlis, and Diarbekr to Constantinople. The Sháh then -laid siege to Eriván for the space of seven months, which received no -relief on account of the enmity existing between the Grand Vezír Tabání -Yassí and Murteza Páshá, who was shut up in Eriván. The latter having -no subsistence left, killed himself by swallowing his diamond ring, -and the next day the whole garrison, half naked and starved, threw -themselves on the mercy of the Persians and were killed by them, a -great number being driven into the Aras, of whom a few being saved by -charitable Sunnís fled to Karss and Bayazíd. Sultán Murad IV. hearing -this sad account, girt himself on two sides with the sword of religious -zeal and high enterprise, with the intention to conquer Baghdád, and to -deliver the tomb of the great Imám Na’amán Ben Thábet out of the hands -of the Infidels. - -Eriván meanwhile remained in the hands of the Persians, who increased -its flourishing state; it could not however resist an assault of the -Ottoman army for seven days, because it is only surrounded by a simple -wall. It is situated on the bank of the Zenghí, extending from the -south to the north, having so little breadth, that the balls fired -on it by Sultán Murad bounded from one extremity of the town to the -other; many of these balls are even now seen fixed in the towers. The -walls built by Ferhád Páshá are forty royal cubits high; those built -by Tokmák Khán, fifty cubits high and twenty broad; it has no ditch on -the side of the Zenghí, but it has a wall on the south, north and east -sides, which however is not deep, being a marshy ground. It has three -iron gates; to the south, the gate of Tabríz; to the north, the gate of -the Meidán called Yaila Kapússí, on this spot they play Maïl; to the -west, the gate of the bridge; there are seven hundred cannons large and -small, which remained from the time of the Ottomans, and an immense -number of other stores, because it is the frontier of Azerbeiján. It is -garrisoned by three thousand men of the fortress, three thousand men of -the Khán, and seven thousand men of the province. Sometimes its Khán -enjoyed the title of Khán of Kháns. A judge, Nakíb, Kelenter, Darogha, -Múnshí, Yessaúl-aghá, Kúrújí, Ishek Aghá, Dízchoken Aghá, seven -Mihmandárs and Sháhbenders, keep public order. The town consists of one -thousand and sixty elegant houses covered with earth, the best is the -palace of the Khán much embellished by Emírgúneh. Near it is the mint -where large and small silver coins (Abbássí and Bestí) are coined. The -suburb outside of Yaila Kapússí is called the old town; at the head of -the bridge is the Khán’s garden, and a suburb with mosque and bath. In -the year 1045 (1635), when the Persians conquered this fortress, they -also built a castle on the east side, with walls of clay and straw, -which is even more solid than stone. At the time I was looking at all -the curiosities of Eriván, I received an invitation from the Khán to -assist at the ceremony of the circumcision of his sons. His Kiaya gave -me ten tománs of Abbássí, for the expenses of the journey, and I began -my journey from Eriván to Shirván, by Shamákhí, Tiflís, Termís, Aras -and Bakú. We first travelled to the north through cultivated fields of -rice, along the river Zenghí to Kent Khoja, the khass of the Khán of -Eriván, with five hundred houses, a mosque and a bath; then fourteen -hours further to Kent Demijí Hassan, which was anciently a town of -the Turcomans, and is even now inhabited by a Turcoman tribe. It was -destroyed by Murád IV. We arrived at last at Genje. - - -_Description of the important town of Genje._ - -It was wrested from the hands of Sháh Tahmás, in the year 1014 (1065), -by Kojá Ferhád Páshá. At the time when Mohammed Páshá the Kiaya of Sárí -Ahmed Páshá, was governor of Genje, the Sháh besieged it for seven -months, and killed the whole garrison. Since that time it remained in -the possession of the Persians, a large town, but the Sháh destroyed -its castle; it is now an elegant town of six thousand houses with -gardens and vineyards, a khán, a bath, and imáret, situated in a large -plain. Its gardens are watered by the Kúrek, which joins the Kúr; the -Kiblah side of the town is a mountainous tract, and the foot of the -mountains is cultivated in gardens and vineyards; the silk of Genje -is famous. On the plain round Genje are seven districts of Infidel -villages, where cotton, silk and rice are cultivated; here are rich -Moghs (ancient Persians, worshippers of fire) and beautiful youth of -both sexes; the horse-shoes of Genje are not less famous than the silk. -The town is governed by a Khán, who commands three thousand men. The -public officers (the Khán included) are twelve in number, in honour of -the twelve Imáms. Its first Ottoman governor was Khádim Hassan, who -conquered Berda’a. - - -_Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs._ - -Twelve thousand Moslims, who had surrendered the castle by capitulation -to the Sháh, were unmercifully killed, and are now buried outside the -town in a place called Shohedaí Ervám (martyrs of Rúm). We remained -three days as guests in the khán of the town, and continued our journey -with about fifty companions to the north; on our right was the Khánlik -of Loristán. After seven hours march we arrived at Gilkzár Ahmedí, -formerly a town, but now a kent of seven hundred houses, the khass -of the Khán of Genje, with a mosque, a khán, and a bath; fine silk -is manufactured here. Nine hours further, is the Kent of Megúchúr of -seven hundred houses, with a mosque, and a fine garden. On the opposite -shore of the Kúr is a great kent called Kendere; we passed in boats to -Megúchúr, the frontier of Genje, and after eight hours we reached the -great town of Aras. - -The town of Aras was built by Keyúmerth, and conquered in the year -985 (1577), by Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. Emír Khán -arrived with forty thousand men to succour the town, and finding it -taken he fought a battle, which terminated in his being made prisoner, -and all his troops consisting of Turcomans, Koks, Doláks, and Georgians -were dispersed. They were routed for the second time by the Kiaya of -Uzdemir-oghlí on the banks of the Kúr river which swallowed up a great -number of them, the bridge having broken down under the weight of the -fugitives; their bones are yet seen in heaps, and the bridge still -lies in ruins. The Turkish general having convinced himself of the -importance of the town of Aras, situated between Genje and Shirván, -collected masons and workmen, and enclosed the town with a wall, -including the garden Sháh Khiabán, which was outside of the town; three -gates led through this wall of clay, the circumference of which is nine -thousand six hundred paces. It was finished in forty days, and the -governorship, with the rank of a Begler Beg, conferred on Kaitáss-Beg, -who had been brought up in the Harím of Sultán Murad. From its -situation at the foot of a mountain, the town resembles that of Brússa, -surrounded with gardens of fruits and flowers, vineyards and rosebeds. -It consists of ten thousand houses with terraces, and forty mosques; in -the castle are those of Murad III., of Ferhád Páshá, and of Kara Sinán. -The Turkomans and Komúks of Dághistán, pronounce the name of this town -Arash. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Mustafa, this town like -that of Merend fell into the hands of the Persians. Forty quarters may -now be reckoned, and as many mosques, sixteen baths, eight hundred -shops, and seven coffee-houses. The youth are gazelle-eyed, with faces -shining like the sun, because their women are Georgians, Dadiáns, -Achikbásh, and Shúshád. The air is mild and the water of the royal -mountain (Sháhkúh) most excellent. Around it are seven great districts -each of which reckons one hundred populous kents, the most populous is -that of Levend Khán near Aras. On crossing the bridge of Uzdemir-oghlí -Osmán Páshá, the traveller arrives at the district of Palvanaí, and the -district of Shair Abadán, where a castle is seen on a rock, the name of -which I do not remember. - -The royal mount, opposite the town, is the summer abode of the -Turcomans. Amidst the districts of Aras is also that of Shekí, which -is now governed by the governor of Aras, though it was sometimes ruled -by the power of the Princes of Dághistán. The Khán of Aras leads -twenty-three thousand men into the field. Twelve public officers keep -order in the town. After a stay of three days in this town, we advanced -to the north, and after two stations reached the castle of Shekí. - - -_Description of the Castle of Shekí._ - -It was built by Alexander a Prince of the Shúshads, from whose hands -it passed into those of the Prince of Dághistán, and then into those -of the Persians. Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. -conquered it, and it was conferred on Erkelád Beg, the son of Levend -Khán. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Mustafa it returned into -the possession of the Persians, and is now the seat of a Sultán, who -commands one thousand men. It is a nice castle built on a rock, its -circuit three thousand paces, a ditch is not required; its two gates -are that of Genje and that of Shirván; though situated on the frontier -of Dághistán it is reckoned to belong to Georgia, the more so as its -builder was a Georgian; there are three thousand houses, and seven -mihrabs; in the market is the mosque of Mirza Alí Beg, in the castle -that of Lagúsh-oghlí Ahmed Beg; that of Murad III. is falling into -decay. In the gardens great quantities of silk are produced. At a -journey’s distance east of this castle passes the river Kanúk, flowing -into the Zenghí. Advancing to the north, we crossed the river of -Uzdemir-oghlí Osmán Páshá and arrived at the place Koyún-gechid, where -we saw piles of human bones; our companion Yasser Alí Aghá told us, -that it was on this spot that Mustafa Páshá, the general of Murad III., -was attacked by the Kháns of Tabríz, Lor, Nakhshiván, and Karabágh, -who with more than two hundred thousand men surrounded him. Koja Lala -Mustafa Páshá ordered a general attack, which was instantly made on -one side by Uzdemir-oghlí, on the second by Mohammed, the governor of -Haleb, and on the third by Mustafa, the governor of Mera’ash, who cut -to pieces more than a thousand men, and drove the rest like sheep to -the ferry of Koyún-gechid, where a great many of them were drowned, -some in the river Kanúk and some in the Kapúr. In short there remained -altogether more than forty thousand men on the field of battle, whose -bones are piled up as an everlasting monument; I said a Fátihah for -their souls, and crossed the sheep’s ferry. Further on to the north -we passed the white river (Aksú), which is called by the Persians -the river of Gilán. It comes from the mountains of Aras, and flows -into the Kúr. At the end of three hours we entered the district of -Mahmúdabád consisting of two hundred highly cultivated kents, which -produce a thousand Yúks of silk, each kent resembling a large town. The -inhabitants are Turkománs, Kok, Dulák, Moghols, and Ettels. - - -_Account of the Tribe of Ettels._ - -Ettel signifies in the Mogolic language, tongue of dogs; they take this -name from their war-cry, which is a kind of howling. Near Márdín, in -the sanjak of the mountains, which I entered with Melek Ahmed Páshá, -the Ettels are a tribe like that of the hairy Kurds, impure, impious, -irreligious robbers, who pretend to be of Hamza’s sect, keep neither -prayer-hours nor fasts, are ignorant of moral duties and of God. Seven -or eight of them share a woman amongst them; if she gets with child, -her seven or eight keepers after some time assemble, and the woman -gives an apple into the child’s hand, the man to whom the child gives -it is reckoned to be the father, and henceforth the woman belongs -exclusively to him, without any man being allowed to raise pretensions -to her. The famous sect of the candle-extinguishers (Múm sonduren), -must be a branch of them, because I saw or heard nothing of them any -where else. It is a certain fact that they drink out of the shoes of -their Sháhs, to whom they are most obedient. - -The Kaitáks are about twenty thousand men on the frontiers of -Dághistán, who sometimes come to the towns of Aras and Shekí; a strange -race of men like the beast of the day of judgement, with heads in the -form of kettles, brows two fingers broad, shoulders so square that a -man may easily stand upon them, thin limbs, round eyes, large heels, -and red faces. They pretend to be Sháfítes; if they come to the market -of Aras and Shekí, they come on waggons, or ride on buffaloes, because -horses and asses could not carry their weight: as they pass with their -turbans of the size of a cupola, saluting on both sides with great -dignity, they seem to be of the race of Dejál (the Antichrist) true -Oghúzians. These Kaitáks come originally from the province of Mahán, -are Mogholian Turks, and therefore speak the Mogolic language, of -which I could only collect a few words, as I remained but two days -among them. I saw these people in the district of Mahmúdabád, and -after having travelled further to the north, reached the kent Chailán -on the frontier of Shirván on the banks of the river of Guílán, with -six hundred houses of Turcomans and Oghúzians. Further on is the town -Niázabád on the frontier of Shirván built by Yezdejerd-sháh, great -ruins of its ancient magnificence are yet extant, it was ruined by -the Moghols, who united with the Komúks and Kaitáks of Dághistán. In -the reign of Murad III., Ferhád Páshá fixed his winter quarters here, -and levelled the castle, when he left it in the spring. It is now the -frontier between Dághistán and Persia, with forty quarters and as -many mosques, a khán, bath and market-place, the seat of a Sultán who -commands a thousand men. There are twelve magistrates; according to -the statement of the Kelenter, there are more than six thousand houses -surrounded by gardens. It is a pity that its strong castle lies in -ruins; if God should again grant that it be restored to the Ottoman -power, it might be easily repaired, and become a very strong castle. -This town is surrounded by an endless plain on all four sides. - - -_Pilgrimage of Ashár-Baba._ - -Ashár-Baba was one of the disciples of our great ancestor the Turk -of Turks, Khoja Ahmed Yessúí; as the rites of Yessúí are liked in -Persia the convent at this place is inhabited by more than a hundred -Dervishes. It is a general pilgrimage, the inhabitants profess to be of -the sect of Hanefí. We here took some companions and advanced to the -north to the kent Ferrakhzád on the frontier of Shamákhi, and on the -bank of the white river (Aksú) with five hundred houses, a mosque, a -khán, a bath and a small market. The mihmándár of this place paid me -many attentions. We advanced to the north amongst shady groves, dined -at a hunting place of Sháh Khoda-bende, and arrived at Nílchaí, the -same as blue river (Goksú), which coming from Dághistán joins the Kúr -at this place. - - -_Praise of Mount Caucasus._ - -The rivers which come from Mount Caucasus, on the south, flow into -the Kúr, and those towards the north, straight into the Caspian Sea. -Again there are rivers on the south side, which fall into the Black -Sea, and on the north side into the Kúbán. Mount Caucasus is the -greatest mountain in the world, its tracts are ruled by five different -monarchs, and to the south the Abáza tribes are settled to the extent -of eighty journies. On the east side on the border of the mountain are -the Mingrelians, Georgians, Ajíkbásh, Shúshád, Kúrdíl, and Dadián to -the extent of forty journies. Again there is the province of Tiflís on -the Persian frontier, and the throne of the Alans (Serer-ul-allán) on -the border of Mount Caucasus nineteen journies long; Dághistán, within -Mount Caucasus, twenty journies long to the north. Inside of Mount -Caucasus is also Circassia inhabited by the tribes Kabartaí, Bestí, -Púltakaí, Khatúkaí, Memsúkh, Bozadúk, Takakú, Zana, Shefáke and other -Circassian tribes, eighty-one journies. According to this reckoning the -extent of all the tracts of Mount Caucasus is two hundred and forty -journies. It is so high that it is seen at ten days distance. God -has created on the surface of the earth one hundred and forty-eight -mountains, twelve of the highest _par excellence_, are, Mount Caucasus, -Mount Bingol, Mount Demavend, Mount Siján, Mount Kamar, the mountains -in Germany at the source of the Danube; the mount Samúr, where the -Zeiro and the Dniester take their origin. No man has ever reached half -the height of Mount Caucasus: passing on our way through the districts -of Dághistán we saw its top wrapped in clouds. But we shall now return -to the description of our journey. - -The kent of Kokchaí (the blue river) is a great place with a Kelenter -and Mihmándár, seven hundred houses with gardens. The inhabitants are -Sunnís, who pay tribute to Sháh Ismail for permission to wear beards. -We continued our journey through fields to the north, for seven -hours, and reached the kent Aksú, on the territory of Shamákhí, of -one thousand houses, a mosque, khán and bath. The White River passes -through the place and flows into the Kúr, it comes from the mountains -of Shirván, waters the fields of Shamákhí and falls into the Kúr. - - -_Description of the Town of Shamákhí._ - -It was first built by Yezdejerd Sháh the Persian Monarch; it is the -centre of seven Khánliks, some spell it Shám Akhí (the brother of -Damascus), and some Shám Ahí (the sigh of Damascus), because its first -inhabitants were a colony from Damascus; forty Sultáns and forty judges -are attached to it, seventy castles and thirteen hundred kents like -large towns: Ulama Páshá and Pírí Páshá, two Vezírs of Sultán Súleimán -took possession of it in their Emperor’s name, and Ulama Páshá was -named governor of Shirván; Sháh Tahmás then besieged the town during -three months, conquered it, and gave the government to his younger -brother, Elkáss Mirza, who remained three years at his post, but then, -being afraid of his brother, took flight with all his valuable things, -came through the steppes in forty days to Kafa, embarked himself and -paid his homage to Sultán Súleimán at Constantinople. In the year 954 -(1547), Elkáss Mirza undertook with Lala Mustafa an expedition to -Persia, and then took up his abode in the palace of Pertev Páshá at -Constantinople. Having witnessed the pomp of Sultán Súleimán’s solemn -entrance, he said, “How it is possible that with such power your -Emperor of the Ottomans should not be at the same time the monarch of -Iran?” Súleimán carried Elkáss along with him on the expedition to Wán -and Azerbeiján. Lala Mustafa Páshá was named governor of Shirván, and -Elkáss Mirza, his predecessor in this government, ravaged the provinces -of Nakhshiván, Eriván, Genje, and Shirván. Sháh Tahmas having died, the -castle of Shamákhí was taken after a siege of seven days from his son; -Lala Páshá was named governor of Shamákhí, and Elkáss Mirza Khán of -Mahmúdabád. He ravaged Persia as far as Isfahán in order to quench his -thirst for vengeance. Shamákhí was then contested for by both powers, -till in the reign of Murad III. it was conquered, and then repaired -by Uzdemír-oghlí Páshá. The Persians reconquered it and lost it again -to Ferhád Páshá. It remained in the hands of the Ottománs till the -time of Sultán Murad IV. when the Persians took Derbend and Shamákhí -by usurpation, and sent the garrison prisoners to Constantinople. It -has ever since remained in the power of the Persians, and is now the -seat of a Khán. The castle is on a hill on the bank of the river, the -interior one is very strong, but the exterior is in decay. The town -consists of about seven thousand well built houses, stone walls, and -terraces, each house provided with water; there is an infinite number -of gardens, and twenty-six quarters; the quarters called Meidán and -Shabúrán being in the inner castle are the most elegant; there are -seventy mosques, the oldest is that of Div Alí, who was one of the -Kháns of Shah Tahmáss, but a Sunní; in the suburb is the great mosque -of Sháh Safí, which rivals the vault of the palace of Chosroes. In the -court-yard is a basin, and round it cells for students; the gates of -the mosque of Ferhád Páshá are closed, because it has no endowment; -the mosque of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá is a college, where the Muftí holds -lectures: there is a dining establishment of Sultán Khodabende’s -foundation, forty schools for boys, seven pleasant baths, the best of -which is that of Shabúr, with numerous private rooms and a basin, its -waiters are fine youths. Besides the public baths, there are private -ones in every garden. There are forty caravánseraïs, in each of which -many thousand tománs of wares are deposited. The public security is so -great, that every man leaves his shop open, without the least danger, -when he goes away on business; there are altogether twelve hundred -shops. There is no Bezestán of stone, but nevertheless a great number -of valuable articles; the coffee-houses are meeting-places for wits and -learned men; the air is mild and the land fertile; rice, cotton, seven -sorts of grapes, pears, and water-melons are in great perfection. The -greatest part of the inhabitants are Sunnís of the Hanefirites, who -perform their prayers secretly. I remained during seven days a guest -of the Khán of Shamákhí, Takí Khán, a generous, liberal man, who liked -society and good company. He presented us with many pieces of silk -stuffs, ten tománs of Abássí, and a horse (Karajubúk). Being himself -invited to the entertainment of the Khán of Eriván, he set out from -Shamákhí with one thousand men. Marching to the north we came to the -pilgrimage of Pírderkúh (the old man of the mountain) a great saint, -a fine walking-place the view from which embraces all the buildings -of Shamákhí; the inhabitants of three hundred adjacent villages are -for the most part Dervishes of the order of Begtásh, belonging to -the Convent of this Saint. We advanced from hence six hours to the -north through a cultivated country, and reached the station of Pír -Merízát, where we were treated as guests by the Kelenter. The convent -of this place is called Pír Mirza by some, and Pír Mirka by others, -but the proper mode of spelling the word is Merizát, which signifies -incurvated, because his body is seated in one of the corners of the -convent in an incurvated position, his face turned towards the Kiblah, -his head recumbent on a rock. His body is light and white like cotton, -without corruption at all. The Dervishes who are busy all day long in -cleaning and sweeping the convent, put every night a basin of clear -water at the feet of the Saint, and find it empty in the morning; his -dress is thus always washed white without the least dust upon it. The -brains of those who visit this place are perfumed by the scent of -ambergris. Sheikh Sefí who came from Erdebíl to visit this Saint spent -treasures in building this convent of Dervishes Begtáshí, which has -its equal perhaps only in the town of Meshhed Mússa Riza. Its entrance -fills all who visit it with a sacred awe, like culprits appearing -before a great monarch as their judge. I visited it, read the Súra Yass -in honour of the Saint, and made spiritual acquaintance with him. I am -unable to quote the date of his death, as there is no chronostick on -the gate; but one of the Dervishes told me that he was the Múëzzin of -Sheikh Ibrahím Shirvání, who had arrived at such a degree of sanctity, -that when he proclaimed prayers at the five hours, the skies all moved -in uproar. Sheikh Ibrahím touched his back bone, which is the cause of -his incurvated position and good preservation. Whoever says at his tomb -the seven verses of a Fátihah may be sure to have for seven days the -object of his wishes. Passing about a mile to the north of the convent, -through gardens, we came to the Kent of Kharjdeh, another place of -pilgrimage, which was covered with a cupola by Khodabende Sháh; in -seven hours more, to the caravánseraï of Kúzlí, a great Khán, the -foundation of Sháh Ismaíl; further on, to the station of six trees, a -great caravánseraï with a ruined Kent, on the frontier of Derbend; and -then to the pilgrimage of Khizrzende, who lies beneath a cupola in good -preservation. Uzdemir-oghlí Pásha who came here hunting, built this -cupola because he had great faith in the Saint. Still further northward -in the district of Musekker, on the frontier of Shaburán, is the place -Regál. - -There is a Regál, a small Kent, near Shamákhí, but this has a mosque, -a khán, a bath with gardens, and three thousand houses with terraces; -it belonged formerly to Derbend and is now a dependence of Bakú, the -inhabitants are for the most parts Turcomans, Kaitáks and natives of -the towns of Dághistán, Enderí, Tarkhú, Koúk, and Thálibserán; they -are not duellists, though many exist in these parts. We halted on -the border of the river Regál, and afterwards continued our journey -through the fields; all at once we saw a great troop coming from the -Black Sea, which as we approached proved to be the troops of seven -great Persian Kháns, viz. Eriván, Genje, Lor, Bakú, Kílán, Moghán, and -many Sultáns, all in state dresses, with more than ten thousand men -of Turcomans, Moghols, Kalmúks, Kodeks, Valács, and Cossacks, with a -variety of dresses and arms, sounding trumpets of Efrasiáb, beating -drums and kettle drums, and playing Persian tunes in a style beyond -all description. The Khán of Eriván leaving the troops and advancing -to meet us, the Khán of Shamákhí acquainted me with it. He saluted me -first, and then the Kháns of Kílán and Bakú, and we continued improving -our acquaintance till we arrived at the town of Bakú. So many salutes -were fired from the walls and towers of Bakú that it seemed like a -salamander in the fire of Nimrod’s pile. We met with Envoys who had -arrived from the Russian towns of Astrakan, Heshdek and Terek, to -compliment the Khán with presents on his feast; thus we entered the -Castle of Bakú on Friday the first Moharrem of the year 1057 (1647). - - -_Description of the fortress of Bakú._ - -After a grand repast we delivered the letter of Defterdár-zádeh -Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, our gracious Lord, with the -presents consisting of beads of pearls, Irák stuffs, and a fine sword. -I also delivered the letters of the Kháns of Tabríz and Nakhshiván, -complimenting him on the feast of his wedding; the Khán entertained me -as a guest in his sister’s palace, the festival lasted ten days and -nights, during which he praised the presents he had received through -me, in the presence of all the Kháns and Sultáns; he then presented me -with a Persian dress, ten tománs of Abbássí, and ten tománs of Bisití; -after which, with my companions, I went to view the town. - -The castle of Bakú is built on a hill and is of a square form; the -gate looking to the west is of iron from Nakhshiván, the circumference -is seven hundred paces, it has seventy towers, and six hundred -battlements, the height of the wall is forty royal cubits; being -situated on a rock, there is no necessity for a ditch. Within the -castle are seventy houses with terraces, a mosque of Hyder Sháh, but -without a minareh. In the castle is no khán, bath or market, but on -the shore of the Caspian Sea the suburb (Robát) consists of a thousand -houses with gardens, mosques and kháns, surrounded with walls on -three sides; there are three gates, the gate of Guílán to the north; -the gate of Derbend to the south; and westward towards the sea-shore -is the harbour-gate. Seven minarehs of as many mosques are to be -seen, the names of which I am ignorant of, and three baths, the most -brilliant of which is that of Mirza Khán. This place being a frontier -fortress opposed to Russia is garrisoned with excellent troops called -Sháhseven and Dizchoken (who love the Sháh and bend their knees before -him.) It is the seat of a Khán in the province of Shirván, ruled by -twelve magistrates. The Russian Cossacks have several times pillaged -the town of Bakú, and the province of Guílán; they besieged it at the -instigation of the Persians soon after its conquest by Uzdemír-oghlí -Osmán Páshá, when Kobád Páshá was governor, but were all cut down, and -their bones are yet piled up on the shore. The climate is mild and -favourable to the cultivation of rice and cotton; the water all smells -of Naphtha which is found in seven mines near the town, of different -colours, yellow, red and black. The inhabitants of the districts of -Musekker, Sedán, and Ríneb do not use oil or grease, but all burn -black Naphtha. The people are sound and stout, and some of them fine -figures; they are for the most part Sunnís. The distance between this -town and Derbend is four days journey, peopled by wandering Turcomans. -Three journies east of Bakú is the town of Shabúrán, and Shamákhí is -five journies to the east; the port of Shamákhí is much frequented by -Chinese, and Tartars, Kalmúks and Russians, who bring different wares, -in exchange for which they take salt, naphtha, safian, and silk. Round -the town are many places, where if a portion of earth is dug up fire -bursts forth, which is used by the Caraváns in cooking their victuals. -Near the town to the north flows the Kúr, which is sometimes navigated -by Cossack and Russian pirates, who ravage the Persian provinces, and -sell their prisoners privately in the markets of Guílán. It is a great -river like the Danube, broad but not deep. I remained some days at -Bakú to witness the festival at the wedding of the sister of the Khán -of Eriván, who was married to the Khán of Bakú. If I were to describe -minutely all that took place at this festival it would more than fill -a large book. During a fortnight’s stay I received many valuable -presents, from the Khán and others, viz. rich cloth, seven horses, -three Georgian slaves, a Persian sable pelisse, two camels, ambergris, -&c. ten tománs of Abbássí for the expenses of the journey, and as much -to be distributed amongst my servants. We took leave of our friends, -and the Khán himself, out of friendship, accompanied us when we left -the town. - - -_Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia._ - -We passed to the south over a dreary tract along the sea, where we -saw mines of Naphtha in seven places; it boils up from the earth on -the seashore, and in the district of Musekker in hot springs, on the -surface of which it collects. It is a Royal lease, let for seven -thousand tománs of aspers per year. The men belonging to the inspector -of the Naphtha collect it from the surface of the springs and small -lakes, fill jacks of goatskin with it and sell it to the merchants; the -yellow is the most esteemed; the black Naphtha is carried as a Royal -revenue to the fortresses, and used to light the walls on dark nights, -and to be thrown on the besiegers. It is also used by the Mihmándárs -for torches; all the torches at the Court of the Sháh and at their -great houses are made of Naphtha of Bakú; if it catches fire it burns -to the last drop; to prevent, therefore, the destruction of the mines, -heaps of earth are piled up near them, and if one of them should be -ignited by a spark, all the people flock together and throw earth upon -it to quench the fire. There are also mines of Naphtha in other places, -which, however, I did not see. We advanced to the south, and halted in -the district of Musker, beneath tents of felt belonging to Turcomans, -who with Moghols and Kúmúks pass the winter here; it is a fertile tract -of country. - - -_Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant._ - -A whale had been driven on shore, one hundred yards long, with two -heads, one at the tail end, the other of the size of a cupola. In the -upper jaw it had one hundred and fifty teeth, each a yard long, ears -like an elephant, and eyes of the size of a round table, and covered -with beaver’s hair. The inhabitants of Bakú, Derbend and Shamákhí -flocked together to see it. Khoja Sarúkhán, a voyager in the Caspian -Sea, told me that this kind of whale was common in that sea; there are -certainly many strange creatures and animals in that sea which are not -to be found elsewhere; the shore is covered with bones and carcasses -of strange kinds with square and pentagon heads, and an immense number -of extraordinary fish. According to the reports of sailors, the -circumference of the Caspian Sea is twenty-four thousand miles; it -has no islands like the Black Sea and White Sea, wherein two thousand -and forty islands are reckoned, forty of which are great ones, like -Cyprus, Creta, Rodos, &c. with large towns and rivers. The conflict of -the waves of the Caspian Sea is stronger than those of the Black Sea; -it is bounded on the west by the Russian provinces; and on the east -by the country of the Uzbegs, Kalmúks, and Cossacks. In winter-time -the Kalmúk Tátárs pass over the ice of lakes and rivers which are -frozen for the space of seven months, committing depredations in the -Russian provinces, and carrying a great number of prisoners away. On -the western side its extremity is at Derbend, and south to it, in the -district of the Avárs, which is comprehended by a gulf on the frontier -of Dághistán, is the castle of Terek on the river of the same name. Its -length from north to south is four thousand miles, and its depth three -hundred cubits; thousands of boats and vessels carry on trade, but they -are all afraid of Russian Chaiks, with whom they fight; the vessels -are not large ships like those of the White, Black and Red Sea, but -small boats of reeds with small guns; there are no men of war or great -Caravellas like those of the White Sea, which are necessary to meet the -vessels of the Franks in the Archipelago and Mediterranean; such great -means of defence are not required on the Caspian, as there are only -Cossack boats to be met with. - -We continued our journey eastwards through plain fields, and arrived -at the great town of Shabúrán, an elegant yet ancient town, which was -first built by Isfendiár, and ruined by Húlagú. Uzdemír-oghli Osmán -Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III., took possession of this town after -the conquest of Derbend, and it became the seat of a sanjak Beg. In -the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad IV. the Persians became -masters of it again, and it is now the seat of a Sultán which is the -same as a sanjak Beg in Turkey, it is a well inhabited town, with -seventy mosques, the largest of which are the mosques of Uzún Hassan, -of Tokmák Khán and of Ashár Khán. The fountains and china work, with -which the mosque of Uzún Hassan is inlaid, are no where found in such -profusion. Uzdemir-oghlí used to come every Friday with a great train -from Derbend, in order to perform his prayers here; it is adorned with -so many arabesques and carvings in marble, that the greatest architects -are astonished on beholding it. The town is situated in a valley rich -in bowers, roses, flowers and fruits. Its districts are seven, named -after the seven planets. We continued our journey to the south in the -district of Musker, and reached the station of Kent Charkhí on a wide -plain at a great distance from the Sea. It is the khass of Shah Mikhál, -the Prince of Dághistán, with five hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, -a caravánseraï, and a market-place. The inhabitants are for the most -part Kúmúks of Dághistán. We travelled further on to the south, leaving -Regál on our left, and arrived at last in the district of Musker at the -capital of it, the pass of Alexander, the strong fortress of Derbend. - - -_Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates._ - -It is generally known that Alexander having designed to build the dike -of Gog and Magog, when he arrived at this place, thought of executing a -project for uniting the Caspian with the Black Sea, by means of a canal -which was to join the Caspian Sea with the Phasus; but being advised by -his Vezírs of the danger of this union, as the Black Sea was a great -deal lower than the Caspian, he left it unexecuted, and built three -immense walls with three ditches as a stronghold between the Black and -Caspian Seas, and as a line of defence against the Bení Assfar Sala’at, -Rús, and the people of Crimea and Kipchák. These triple walls, on Mount -Caucasus in the mountains of Irák Dadián, with triple ditches, I, -poor Evliyá, saw, and which all those who travel from Crimea into the -country of the Kúmúks also see; by the lapse of time some of the towers -are in ruins and the ditches choked up with earth. The author of the -History of Tophet pretends that the Caspian Sea issues by subterraneous -canals cut by Alexander into the Phasus, but this is an evident -blunder, as I can most positively assert, because when I saw the Phasus -on my journey to the siege of Assov, I found its water clear and fresh, -while that of the Caspian Sea is so salt and bitter, that it burns a -man’s skin if used for purification. This is a case for applying the -Persian proverb; “Where is hearing, and where is seeing?” - -We have already mentioned in our journey to Trebisonde, that Alexander -built a strong castle on the shores of the Black Sea at the mouth of -the Phasus, and on the shores of the Caspian he built this gate of -gates or iron gate. - - -_Size and figure of the Castle._ - -Yezíb Ben Abd-ul-Melek, the son of Atika, the daughter of Moavia, took -this place from the Khavarej, and the whole district of Dághistán -was then ennobled with the glory of Islám. In the year 986 (1578) -Uzdemir-oghlí the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. appearing with a great -army before its walls, the Sunnís who were inside bound Jírágh -Khalífeh, the Sháh’s commander, cut off his head, and surrendered -the fortress to the Ottoman general, who was appointed by the Porte, -Governor General of Shirván. He repaired the castle and made subject -to it seventy surrounding villages. One thousand janissaries, four -regiments of Sipahís, ten of armourers, ten of gunners, sixty cannons, -five hundred boxes of ammunition and fifteen hundred militia of Eriván -completed its means of defence. Communications were opened with the -Tátárs of Crimea and Kipchák, with the garrisons of Akhichka, Genje, -Tiflís, and Shamákhí, and the town was in a highly flourishing state, -till in the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad IV. the troops -rebelled and surrendered the fortress to the Sháh of Persia, in whose -hands at the present time it is in a most prosperous condition. It is -the seat of a khán and judge and twelve public officers, garrisoned by -nineteen hundred good troops. I occupied a place here on the bulwark -of Kainák khán, and was extremely well treated by the khán who gave me -five tománs for the expenses of my journey. - - -_Description of the Iron Gate._ - -Alexander closed this passage with an iron gate, which remained up to -the time of Núshirván by whom it was renewed. Jezdejerd Sháh, Ismail -Sháh and Uzdemír Páshá repaired the castle situated at the foot of -mount Arghan and Deneb. The foundations of the western walls are washed -by the Caspian Sea. The walls were built by Herzsháh, as is recorded -by the Persian chronostick on the gate of the harbour. The remains of -the wall of Alexander also, which was a broad thick wall, are still -to be seen projecting from the Sea. If the government would undertake -it, it would be easy to extend the harbour from these walls up to the -fortress. The length of the wall from the sea to the high mountain is -an arrow’s shot, and the breadth of the castle itself is the same. It -is built in a pentagon form on a high hill, the strongest I ever saw -during my travels; the intelligent architect distributed it into three -parts, one of which looks eastward to mount Safah; the second gate is -the entrance to the town. In the wall which looks to Mount Arghan are -also two gates, and two others leading to the lower town; the first -is called Meskúr because it opens towards the district of that name, -persons leaving this gate in waggons, may arrive at Shamákhí in three -days. Another gate leads towards Kipchák, Crimea and Circassia. In -Dághistán, waggons with horses cannot travel, but the roads to Terek, -Kazán and Desht Kipchák are all practicable for those vehicles. The -third division of the fortress looks towards the sea; it is not so -well inhabited as the other two, as the barracks for the garrison are -the only buildings. The waggons of the merchants who come from Kílán -and Bakú with goods are all put in array in this castle; the circuit -of the whole fortress is eleven thousand paces, it has seventy towers, -at each of which is a college and a mosque. The students are allowed -Naphtha instead of candles, and are fed twice a day. In this way they -have contrived to interest the Ulemás in watching the castle; there -are besides these seventy towers, seven thousand and sixty battlements -round the fortress; on dark nights the whole fortress is illuminated -with Naphtha, which is a most necessary precaution, as the castle is -continually threatened by no less than thirteen mortal enemies, the -worst of whom are the Cossacks, who come in boats and ravage all these -districts; they cannot, however, come near the border of the castle on -account of seventy large cannons, which defend the avenue, and whose -brilliancy dazzles the eyes of all the beholders. The other powerful -enemies are the Tátárs, Kalmúks and the Ottománs on the west side; the -Circassians on the south side; and the worst of all enemies, the Kúmúks -of Dághistán on the south-east or Kiblah side; to the east is the -inimical district of Georgia belonging to Tamaras khán: for this reason -the men of the garrison pass the whole night on the walls crying Khoda -Khob (all’s well!) There is also a post of fifty watchmen (Túlúngí) -stationed on mount Deneb at a great distance from the town; if an enemy -appears anywhere his arrival is made known to the town by fires lighted -on the top of this mountain. - - -_Buildings within the Castle._ - -The stones of the wall are each of the size of an elephant, but cut -square, and are so large that fifty men at the present day, could not -lift one of them. In the castle are two hundred well terraced houses; -close to the southern wall is a large palace, the architectural -ornaments of which are not to be found in any other palace in Persia; -near to it is a great mosque with a ruined minareh, and a bath built in -the Ottoman style, and a fountain. Near the gate of boats opening to -the east, is the mosque of Uzdemir-zadeh Osmán Páshá, with some kháns -and shops. The suburb outside the castle consists of about a thousand -houses, with no imáret, but kháns, mosques and baths. The people get -their living by cultivating silk, they are Sunnís and Shafiís, rich -men, and fine youths. On the opposite side of the Caspian Sea are the -Russian provinces of Heshdek and Kazán; and further on Kipchák and -Heihát, where twenty years ago Taissi Sháh, Moyunják Khán, and Kúba -Kalmákh Khán with fifty or sixty thousand men wandering about in the -steppes, pushed their inroads up to the bank of the Kemúklí river and -there killed Gúrgí Mustafa Páshá; these Kalmúks are all Infidels, who -have no idea of religion and faith, but are a careless slavish set -of people, some of whom now begin to come with Russian merchants to -the harbour of Derbend, which is frequented by Chinese, Tátárs, and -Russians in great numbers. - -When it was governed by the Ottomans its annual revenue was two hundred -and forty-seven thousand aspers, besides the revenues of the seven -Sultáns or sanjak Begs, and the annual sums given to the Prince of -Dághistán for the preservation of peace. This is according to the -description of Zál Mohammed, made after the conquest of Uzdemir-oghlí -Osmán Páshá. The province of Shirván at present consists of seventy -jurisdictions, seven khánliks, and twelve Sultánliks. May God bring it -back to the possession of the Ottomans! - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -Yezíd Ben Abd-ul-Melek, son of Atika the daughter of Moavia, came from -Damascus with a great army to make war against the heretic rebels -(Khavarej); seven hundred moslim martyrs, who were killed on that -occasion, are buried outside the western wall at a mile’s distance. -Another army came in the time of Heshám Ben Abd-ul-Melek, which -conquered the provinces of Dághistán, Kúmúk, Thábserán, Kaiták, and -Derbend. The martyrs who fell on this occasion were also buried in this -cemetery; their names are written on the tombs in Cufic characters and -in Thúlúth writing; the inhabitants of Derbend boast that amongst this -crowd of martyrs seventy-five doctors of true tradition are buried. -Amongst these tombs some are to be seen with inscriptions in Jellí -(great Neskhí) of Ottomans, giving an account of their lives and deaths. - - -_The Pilgrimage of the Forty._ - -There are forty tombs much frequented by visitors. The tomb of -Derekhorkhot, a great Saint, in whom the people of Shirván had great -faith. Several thousand great Saints are buried here, but I visited and -made myself acquainted with those only that I have mentioned. God’s -mercy upon them all! After having seen all the curiosities of this town -I received from the Khán a horse of the race (Kádhibeg,) and a trotting -horse (Chapár), ten pieces of cotton stuff of Guzerát, and two hundred -guards to accompany me on the journey; I took leave of all my friends -the Kháns and Sultáns, and set out on my journey to Gúrjistán, or -Georgia. - - - - -JOURNEY TO GEORGIA. - - -After a march of sixteen hours to the south-east through woods, we -arrived at the place called Kúr, of a thousand fine houses and a -mosque, on the frontier of Dághistán, not far distant from Táyeserán, -the residence of Mikhál Sháh, Prince of Dághistán. Every Friday people -flock here together to buy and sell, not for money, but by exchange. -There are ten thousand inhabitants, all Sunnís and Sháfiítes. I saw -no women at all here; the women of Dághistán are not allowed to leave -the house, excepting on a journey to Mecca, or to be carried to the -cemetery after death. The men are hospitable. We left this place, -passed a ruined castle in the midst of woods, and then entered the -great district of the Avárs: it is a district belonging to the khass of -the Prince of Dághistán, and during three days journey we saw seventy -great kents with mosques and kháns. - - -_Description of the Castle Serír-ul-allán._ - -This ancient town was built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; it was -wrested from the hands of the Princes of Dághistán by the Persian Sháh -Kor Khodabende, and fell into those of the Ottomans, who destroyed -the castle that it might not be used as a defence against them; it is -now a large ancient town situated on the border of Mount Caucasus, -belonging to the government of Aresh. According to fabulous history it -was in this town that Solomon set up his throne, which had been carried -through the air by Genii, when he came with Balkis and an immense army -to view Mount Caucasus; this is why it was called the throne of Lán, -a Persian word signifying both a nest, and one who walks or travels. -It is situated between the towns of the gate of gates, Shamákhí, -and Niázabád, but is not much cultivated as it is on the extremity -of the frontier, its gardens are few on account of the coldness of -the climate; there are three thousand houses with terraces, and some -mosques not much frequented, seven baths, eleven caravánseraïs, and -seventy shops: as we remained here but one night, it was impossible to -see much of it. It is the seat of a Khán, Judge, Kelenter, Darogha, -and Munshí, and has a garrison of a thousand men; there are a great -number of Sunnís, who get their living by cleaning cotton. The waters -which give life to the plantations of cotton, all issue from the west -side of Mount Caucasus, and fall into the Kúr. We marched for some -hours towards the Kiblah, to the district of Khata a dependence of the -Princes of Dághistán, a woody tract comprising three hundred kents, -with mosques, kháns, and gardens. We remained here for three days as -guests, and continued our journey on the fourth to the district of -Zákhor, consisting of a hundred and fifty villages and large kents, -governed by Yússúf one of the Princes of Dághistán, who commands seven -thousand brave warlike men; the Beg, with whom we spent a night, -presented me with fifty skins of wild cats, and I gave him three -handkerchiefs embroidered by Sultána Kia. - - -_Tomb of Emír Sultán._ - -He was a great Saint. The Divines of this country, all learned Doctors, -have no enmity amongst themselves, but they shun all communication with -the Reváfes (heretic Persians). Here ends Dághistán, and the province -of Georgia begins. - -The frontier castle Ur belongs to the Persians; we passed it on our -left, and skirted the boundaries of the castle of Shekí, which I -formerly saw on my way to Shamákhí, and arrived at the kent of Zakhorie -on the frontier of Tamarass-khán, belonging to the Khán of Tiflís; the -inhabitants are all Georgians, Armenians, and Gokdúlák. - - -_Description of the Old Town of Kákht._ - -This town is situated on the frontier of Georgia and now governed by -the Persians. It was built by Núshirván to keep the tribes of the -Caucasus in order. It is a pentagon castle, fourteen thousand large -paces in circumference, with one hundred and seventy bulwarks, three -gates, two thousand houses within the castle, a mosque, a bath, and a -khán. Its waters, so many springs of life, issue from the west side -of Mount Caucasus, and after irrigating the gardens fall into the Kúr -to the eastward. The climate being rather cold, its silk is not much -praised. The inhabitants are Georgians, Armenians and Gokdúlák; the -Sultán commands a thousand soldiers, all Shiís, and there are twelve -civil commanders and a judge. Sháh Ismail liked its climate so much -that he remained here three years before the battle of Cháldirán, and -built a suburb outside of it, so that it bears much likeness to the -town of Kaschau in the middle of Hungary. After the loss of the battle -of Cháldirán, the Ottoman flying troops arriving at this town destroyed -it, and since that time many thousand loads of stones have been carried -away by Ferhád Páshá for the repairs of the Castle of Aras. The Sultán -of this place accompanied me, out of kindness, to the next station, and -we passed the night in Khodraí, a kent of a thousand houses, with a -mosque, khán and bath, on the frontier of Tiflís. - - -_Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz. Betlís._ - -According to the author of the Sheref-námeh, this town was first built -by Betlís the Treasurer of Alexander, who also built the castle of -the same name in the province of Ván; its name is now Tiflís, which -for a long time was a great Persian government, till in the time of -Sultán Murad III. Lala Kara Ferhád Páshá with an immense army undertook -the conquest of Georgia, and conquered Chaldír and seventy castles. -Daúd Khán, who was then governor of Tiflís, garrisoned it with forty -thousand men, and fortified it in all possible ways. On the other side -the Ottoman commander summoned the town to surrender to his Emperor; -at an assembly held on this occasion it was advised to send back the -bearer of the summons, and to put themselves into a state of defence, -but the more prudent foreseeing that they would not be able to make -resistance, they all fled away one night, and left the Castle without -defence. The Ottoman commander pursued them with the greatest speed, -and came up with the Khán of Tiflís at the Castle of Zekúm, where -he had entrenched himself with all the treasures carried away from -his capital. A great battle ensued, in which no quarter was given by -the Ottoman victors, and forty thousand Persians were cut to pieces. -The booty taken by the Ottoman army was immense; the Aghá of the -janissaries with seven regiments of his corps was sent to garrison -Tiflís, and the castle of Zekúm was taken in the year 956 (1578). A -few days after, the Castle of Kerím also fell. I have not seen the -Castle of Zekúm, but I saw that of Kerím without entering it, when -passing through the plain of Kákht. Lala Ferhád pursued his victory -as though he had been on a hunting party; he took twenty-six great -and small castles, some of which he destroyed, and some he repaired, -placing a Dizdár in each, and made his entry into Tiflís amidst the -greatest demonstrations of public joy. He fortified this castle to -such an extent, that no fortress of Georgia or Azerbeiján is equal -to it, except that of Bakú and Megú. The province was given with the -rank of a Begler Beg to Mohammed Páshá the son of Ferhád Páshá, then -in possession of the sanjak of Kastemúní; its works were repaired, -and its stores completed. He sent the keys of no less than seventy -large and small castles to the Ottoman Court and then returned himself -to Constantinople. After his departure the Persians besieged the -town of Tiflís for the space of seven months. The garrison being in -the greatest distress for food, eat their dogs first, and then the -dead; the famine was so great that the dog belonging to the Súbashí -Alí sold for seven thousand aspers. At last the governor of Erzerúm, -Mustafa Páshá, arrived with a flying troop, put the Persian General to -flight and relieved the garrison. Hassan Páshá the son of the Grand -Vezír arrived with a caraván, bringing three thousand camel loads of -provisions, which were placed in the Magazines of the small castle. -In short, this fortress remained in the hands of the Ottomans from -the time of Sultán Murad III. till that of Sultán Mustafa, when the -Persians united with the Georgians took the castle by surprise, and -gave it up to the Sháh; and it has remained ever since in the hands of -the Persians. It is the capital of Georgia, to which belongs sixteen -Sultáns, seventy judges, forty districts and seven tracts called Oimák. -Three-tenths of Georgia are occupied by the province of Tiflís; the -khán commands two thousand soldiers, it has also a judge and twelve -public officers in honour of the twelve Imáms. - - -_Size and Figure of the Fortress._ - -It consists of two castles opposite to each other on the banks of -the Kúr which separates the rocks on which they stand, and which are -connected above by a bridge leading from one castle to the other. -The great castle is on the south side of the Kúr and the small one -on the north of it. This river rises in the mountains of Chaldir, -passes Erdehán, Akhiska, and Azgúra and flows into the Caspian Sea; -the Persian historiographers say, that its waters are supplied from a -thousand and sixty sources; it is the largest river in these countries -next to the Euphrates. The circumference of the largest castle is six -thousand paces, the wall sixty cubits high, with seventy bulwarks, -and three thousand battlements, but no ditch; the water-tower which -supplies water to the garrison in time of siege is situated on the Kúr. -In the castle are six hundred houses, terraced, some with and some -without gardens, the palace of the Khán, a mosque and a bath. The small -castle was built by Yezdejerd Sháh, it is of stone, in a square form -with only one gate at the head of the bridge, and has no Bezestán or -Imáret. - -Three thousand watchmen light fires every night, and continually -cry Khoda Khob (all’s well.) Though it is a Persian town, yet its -inhabitants are for the most part Sunnís and Hanefis from the time of -the Ottomans. - - -_Products._ - -The white bread of Tiflís, and the peaches are renowned; the vegetables -exquisite; there is no silk, but most excellent grapes: all these -productions prosper through the quantity of rain water which falls, and -do not require water from the Kúr, this is the case with an hundred and -fifty towns and villages, which it passes on its way. - - -_The Hotbath of Tiflís._ - -On the east side of the large castle a hot-spring boils out of the -ground without the assistance of fire; sheep’s heads and feet are -cooked therein. There are also several pilgrimages at Tiflís, as those -of Imám Hossein Efendí, Rizwán Agha, Jem Alí Efendí, &c. Tiflís -is five hours distance from Kiákht, from the Castle of Aras, four -journies, and the same from that of Genje. We took from the khán two -hundred men to accompany us, and received three tománs for the expenses -of the journey. - - -_Description of the Castle Kúsekht._ - -It stands on a chalk cliff, is of a square form, and belongs to the -district of Tiflís. The castle Lorí near Tiflís was seen on our right -side in the mountains, but we passed it at a great distance. - - -_Description of Súrán._ - -Though a small castle on a hill, yet it is extremely strong and high: -it is one of the oldest castles of Georgia built by Núshirván. Its -inhabitants are Georgians, Gokdúlák and Armenians. We proceeded four -hours to the west, and reached the old town Azgúr: according to the -author of the Sheref-námeh, it is the oldest town in Georgia, and -was built by Alexander. In the Georgian language Azgúr signifies the -King of Kings. The immense blocks of stone used in the formation of -the walls, show that it must have been built by Alexander, because -five hundred men of the present age would not be able to move one -of them; it stands on a high hill, and is of a square form; it has -one gate opening to the south, a mosque, a bath, a khán, and forty -small streets; the gardens are beautiful owing to the mildness of the -climate; the river which passes below it, issues from the mountains of -Akhiska through which it passes, and waters the gardens of the town, -falling into the Araxes. This town being on the frontier of Gurgistán -Shúshád, the inhabitants all speak Georgian. - - -_Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language._ - -One, _árí_; two, _úrí_; three, _sám_; four, _otkhí_; five, _khotí_; -six, _egsí_; seven, _shudi_; eight, _revaí_; nine, _khújraí_; ten, -_atí_; bread, _púrí_; water, _chígál_; meat, _kharj_; wine, _ghita_; -cherries, _bák_; pears, _bishál_; figs, _lefi_; grapes, _kúrzení_; -hazel-nuts, _inikhlí_; melon, _nesú_; &c. - - -_Genealogy of the Georgian Kings._ - -Their first kings were Jews, then Dadiáns and Shúshád, from whom -originated the people of Gúriel, Achikbásh, and Mingrelia, who are all -Christians. They speak twelve different languages, and only understand -each other by the aid of interpreters. The purest language, according -to their opinion, is that of the Shúshád and Dadián. If the dynasty -of the Moscovites should be extinguished, the Princes of Georgia -would succeed. The Aiza and Cherkessians who are an Arabic colony, -have no books at all; according to the histories of their priests they -descended from Keikavús, and then from David. - -There was formerly here a Queen who pretended to reign unmarried; one -night having drank with some young men, she was violated by one of -them, and got with child, which happened to be a girl. To get rid of -the ravisher, the Queen sent him fowl-hunting on a frozen canal, when -the ice broke, and the man was swallowed up, so that all talk about the -matter was at an end. The daughter married a Prince named Begdiván, -and had three sons, who when of age, divided Georgia into three parts. -The first Prince obtained the district of Cotatis otherwise called -Básh Achik, and its inhabitants derive their descent from him. To -the second, Simon, was allotted the district of Tiflís; and to the -youngest, the province of Bághat; from the latter, the Dadiáns derive -their lineage. This Dadián Prince was a just monarch, and even now the -whole of Georgia pay homage to the Princes of Achikbásh and Dadián. -When Sultán Selím I. was Governor of Trebisonde, he lived on good -terms with the Beg of Achikbásh, and spent some time in the castle of -Cotatis, and when he ascended the throne after Bayazíd II. he exempted -by a Khattí-sheríf, the inhabitants of Achikbásh from all gifts and -duties, a privilege they enjoy up to the present day; since that time -it has only been the custom to send annually falcons and fine youths as -presents to the Porte. We left the castle of Azgúr, and going westward -through woods and fields, we arrived all well at Chaldirán and Akhaskha. - - -_Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultan Selím’s conquest._ - -This strong fortress of Akhaska is also spelled Akhachka, Akhjaska, -Okhaskha, and Oksakha, according to the difference of the languages -of the surrounding people. In the Imperial register it is laid down -by the name of Chaldir. The builder was Núshirván, the great Persian -monarch who built the Ták Kesra. He used to spend six months of the -summer here, on account of its climate. It would be too long to relate -all the changes that this place underwent under different kings. The -first moslim conqueror of it was Heshám Ibn Abd-ul-Melek, of the family -of the Ommiades, who, proceeding from Syria with an immense army, -conquered Aintáb, Mera’ash, Malátia, Haleb, Diarbekr, Erzerúm, and -this castle of Akhaska, which then became the Capital of Georgia. He -also conquered Genje, Shirván, and Derbend, and returned to Damascus. -Kara Yússúf, the Prince of the dynasty of the Kara Koyúnlí, not being -able to resist the arms of Timúr, fled to Bayazíd I. for assistance, -and Sultán Uzún Hassan became the possessor of the castle of Akhaska. -Paying homage to Timúr he was put in the number of eleven tributary -princes, that marched by the side of Timúr’s horse, who conferred upon -him, the province of Azerbeiján. It afterwards came into the power -of Sháh Ismail of the Safí family, who chose Akhaska for his summer -quarters and subdued the whole of Georgia. He ravaged the Ottoman -provinces, and pushed his incursions up to Sivás, the granary of the -Ottoman capital. Selím I. was then governor of Trebisonde, and many -times pursued the Persian troops. Having himself ascended the throne, -he immediately began the Holy war, and fought the famous battle on -the plain of Chaldir, which cost the lives of one hundred thousand -Persians, and nearly that of Sháh Ismail, who had a narrow escape. He -then conquered the castle Akhaska, and subdued the whole of Georgia. -A survey of it was commanded, and it was assigned as a government to -a Páshá of three tails. As this town is the frontier of Gúrjistán -(Georgia), Turkistán, and Kurdistán, in immediate contact with Persia, -it was declared a separate Eyálet or government, of which the following -is the description in the Kanún-námeh of Sultán Súleimán. The sanjak -of Chaldir consists of thirteen sanjaks, the officers are a public -treasurer of the timárs (Timár Defterdárí); an inspector of the rolls -(Defter Emíní); a kiaya, an inspector and a secretary of the Chaúshes, -(Chaúshlar kiayassí, Emíní, and Kiátibí). The sanjaks are as follow: -(1) Oltí; (2) Khortíz; (3) Ardíkh; (4) Khajrek; (5) Erdehán; (6) -Postkhú; (7) Mákhchíl; (8) Achárpeník; (9) Akhachka, the seat of the -Páshá. There are also four hereditary sanjaks Yordlik, or Ojáklik, viz. -Portekrek, Lesána, Nussf Levána, and Shúshád; making in all thirteen. - - -_Khass or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs._ - -Khass of the Beg of Oltí, two hundred thousand and seventeen aspers; -Portek, forty-six thousand two hundred and nineteen; Ardenj, two -hundred and eighty thousand; Erdehán, three hundred thousand; -Shúshád, six hundred and fifty six thousand; Lesána, three hundred -and sixty-five thousand; Khartíz, two hundred thousand five hundred; -Khajrek, three hundred and sixty-five thousand; Postkhú, two hundred -and six thousand five hundred; Makhjíl, twenty thousand three hundred -and eleven; Ajára, two hundred thousand; Penek, four hundred thousand. - - -_Number of Ziámets and Timárs._ - -The ziámets and timárs are altogether six hundred and fifty-six swords, -which with the Jebellis form eight hundred men; and with the troops of -the Páshá fifteen hundred troops. In the sanjak Oltí, three ziámets, -a hundred and thirteen timárs; Erdehán, eight ziámets, eighty-seven -timárs; Ardíkh, four ziámets, forty-two timárs; Khajrek, two ziamets, -seventy-two timárs; Khartíz, thirteen ziámets, thirty-five timárs; -Postkhú, twelve ziámets, twenty-eight timárs; Penek, eight ziámets, -fifty-four timárs; Sászín, seven ziámets, thirty-two timárs; Khatla, -nineteen ziámets, seven timárs; Isper, four ziámets, fourteen timárs. -These feudal troops are commanded by their Yúzbashí (Lieutenants), -Cheribashí (Captains), and Alaï-Beg (Colonels). They possess a thousand -and sixty villages on condition of going to war when called upon, the -annual revenue of which amounts to three hundred and twenty Ottoman -purses. In the time of Selím I. the Páshá of this province, commanded -those of Erzerúm, Sivás, Mera’ash, Adana, and Rakka. The place of a -judge with the rank of Molla was given to Ramazán Efendí with five -hundred aspers, now it has a judge with three hundred aspers; he -may however annually collect from the districts belonging to his -jurisdiction, the sum of eighty purses. The Khass of the Begler-beg -amounts to four hundred thousand aspers; the garrison consists of two -thousand men, regular troops, with an Aghá of the janissaries, of the -Jebejí and of the Topjí. In the year 1044 (1634) the Persians became -masters of Chaldirán, but after the conquest of Eriván, Canaan Páshá -was sent by Sultán Murad IV. with an immense army who conquered the -fortress of Akhachka, and put it in a good state of repair, in which it -is kept by the Ottomans, up to the present time. - - -_Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka._ - -It is a square castle built of stone, standing on a chalk cliff, with -two gates and about a thousand houses without gardens covered with -terraces. One of the two gates leads to the east, and the other to -the west, there are twenty-eight mosques. The old mosque in the upper -castle is covered with earth. There is no Imáret (religious foundation) -covered with lead in this fortress. The mosque of Kunbet-oghlí is also -covered with earth, and without a minareh. In the lower castle is the -mosque of Khalíl Aghá. Besides the five legal prayers a day, there are -certain lectures in all these mosques on the Korán and tradition, but -there are no private rooms or establishments for these lectures. The -Muderris (Professors) hold them in the mosques, the students (Thelebe) -are numerous. The suburb outside of the castle is well built, and its -baths pleasant, but the bath inside the castle is very small; the -best is that outside the eastern gate of the castle, the waiters are -fine Georgian boys; there are a great number of kháns; no vineyards -(Bágh), but in some places gardens (Bághje); a large number of gardens -of fruit trees (Mushebek-bostán) full of valuable trees, well watered -by springs. The water of this place comes from the mountains of Uda, -waters the fields of the town, goes straight to the castle of Arghán, -and falls near the Castle of Kúrehkt into the Araxes. The passage -between the castle and the suburb is established by a bridge; the -suburb is not surrounded by walls; the market consists of about three -hundred shops, but no Bezestán of stone. The temperature of this place -being fresh and invigorating its people are strong and brave also; -the Páshá Sefer Páshá, by birth a Georgian, is one of the most wise -and virtuous Vezírs of the Ottoman Court. Eriván is six journeys from -Akhashka to the east, and mid way is the Castle of Karss. From Akhaskha -to Tiflís is five journeys towards the north-east, to Genje five -journeys direct east, and seven journeys to the north is the castle of -Georgia. The fortress of Akhaska is situated between them all in the -plain of Chaldir. - - -_Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir._ - -The castle of Khartíz near Chaldir was conquered in the year 886 -(1481), by Lala Páshá, together with the castle of Adhil, and the -castle of Perkán near Chaldir at a journey’s distance, situated -between two high mountains on a high hill. The castle of Cotatis is -two journies distance from Chaldir, it is the capital of the district -of Ajikbásh near mount Perírat. It is the proper residence of Georgia -otherwise called Shúshád, and Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, -sometimes came hither to divert himself. It was created by him a -hereditary province (Ojáklik), the khass of which amounts to six -thousand and six aspers. There are no ziámets and timárs. The castle -of Khajrek, situated between Akhachka and Erdehán, is the residence -of the Sanjak-Beg of Burdehán, and was conquered by Lala Páshá; the -Khass amounts to three hundred and sixty-five thousand aspers, six -ziámets and twenty-two timárs. The castle of Shatán, which by mistake -is called Sheitán Kala’am, (the Castle of Satan), was conquered by -Ferhád Páshá in the year 990 (1582); it is situated near Chaldir, on -a steep rock. The castle of Kizlar (of the maiden) near Chaldir, on -the border of the river Jágh, is a magic castle. The castle of Altún -(gold), the conquest of Lala Páshá, is three hours distance from -the latter. The castle of Odoria near Chaldir, the conquest of Lala -Páshá. The castle of Al near Akhaska. The castle of Postkhú, which is -the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the province of Akhaska, was conquered -by Lala Páshá in the year 998 (1589); a jurisdiction, the judge of -which is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. There is an Alaï -Beg and Cheríbashí. Shúshádistán is the name of one of the principal -provinces of Georgia, governed by a Begler-beg. Shúshád, the castle, -has no judge. Shúshádistán is a mountainous tract full of precipices. -The castle of Kharbe on the border of a valley, is a steep castle. -The castle of Ardíkh, the seat of a Sanjak-beg in the province of -Chaldir, a conquest of Lala Páshá. The castle of Akhanjí, the seat of -a Sanjak-beg. The castle of Jághirmán near Chaldir, conquered by Lala -Páshá. Besides these castles there are a great number of others seen on -the great road. Georgia is indeed a fine and well cultivated country. -After having seen all this, I took leave of Sefer Páshá, who presented -me with two Georgian boys, a horse, and a hundred piastres; I took an -escort and began my journey westward to Erzerúm. - - -_Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm._ - -We passed the summer quarters of Ulghár, and arrived at the end of four -hours at the castle of Kínava on the frontier of Ardehán; we passed -through a mountainous tract and at last arrived at the Castle of Kara -Ardehán, which was conquered in the time of Selím I. and made the seat -of a Sanjak Beg; the khass is three hundred thousand aspers, eight -ziámets, and eighty-seven timárs; an Alaï Beg, (Colonel); Cheribashí, -(Captain); Dizdár, (Commander of the castle); are the commanding -officers of the garrison, which consists of two hundred men; the whole -contingent in war time including the troops of the Beg amounts to one -thousand men. The judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers. -There is no Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Sheriffs or relations of the -prophet) and its Muftí resides at Akhaska. The castle is built on a -rock, and is five hundred paces in circumference; it is not commanded -by any neighbouring height, it has two hundred and seventy towers, -and three gates. A company of armourers (Jebejí) of the Porte, is in -garrison here. In the town, the family establishment (Khandán) of Kia -Páshá is the most renowned. - - -_Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán._ - -The castle of Wálá, conquered by Lala Páshá 987 (1579); the castle of -Kermek, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castle of -Akhársin, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castles -of Mamerván and Nazarbán, the latter built by Ghází Sefer Páshá in the -year 1053 (1643); the castle Kense Dusál in the district of Erdehán -on a hill; its water flows to Erdehán. The houses all have terraces; -there is no college, but a school for boys. No gardens on account -of the temperature, which is rather cold. Its fruits come from the -castle of Tortúm and Acháras; the inhabitants are all Sunnís, and -live by agriculture. This castle is five journeys to the east of -Erzerúm; and Karss is one journey’s distance from Erzerúm by the way of -Kargha-bazár. We then passed westward sometimes on a stony and woody -ground, sometimes in rich meadows, and arrived at the castle of Gúle. -It was built by Levend-Khán, a Georgian Prince, and is the seat of a -Sanjak Beg, the khass of which is three hundred thousand aspers; it has -a Colonel, Captain, Dizdár and garrison; it is an elegant castle on a -chalk hill. Eight hours further to the west, we reached the castle of -Penek also named after its Georgian builder, it is the seat of a sanjak -Beg subordinate to Chaldir; its khass is four hundred thousand aspers. -Its feudatory militia with the troops of the Beg are a thousand men; -there is a judge with a hundred and fifty aspers, no market nor garden. -The water of the river is very good, its subjects are Armenians, -Gokdulak, and Georgians. Seven hours further is the Castle of Uliní, -built by a Georgian king, and conquered by Sultán Selím; it is the seat -of a Sanjak Beg, whose Khass is two hundred thousand and seventeen -aspers. And has a Colonel, a Captain, a Judge with a hundred and fifty -aspers, a Dizdár, and garrison; the castle stands on a chalk hill with -two gates, one opening to the east, and the other to the west. At the -foot of the castle flows the river Oltí, which waters the gardens of -the town, and enters the Aras on the Kiblah side. The houses are all -inhabited and covered with terraces. There are a number of mosques, a -khán, a bath, garden, and school for boys; its beauties are celebrated. -The inhabitants are good moslims. From hence we travelled direct north, -and came at the end of two hours to the castle of Maverván built by -the Georgian Kings, and conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá; it is -the seat of a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Erzerúm, whose khass amounts -to two hundred and three thousand aspers; the officers are a Colonel -and Captain of the feudal militia. The militia of the Beg amounts to -fifteen hundred men; the judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty -aspers. The castle is of a square form and gigantic size, standing -upon a hill; its gate looks to the Kibláh, there are eight hundred -houses, a mosque, a bath, and a khán, the inhabitants are almost -all poor people. Three hours further on to the west, is the village -Aide Mamerván, a village inhabited by Armenians and Moslims. Further -on among bleak mountains is the village Karakunk, it belongs to the -district of Erzerúm; we passed the straight of Georgia and arrived at -the village of Osmúdúm Sultán, a fine kent of a hundred houses on the -border of a high mountain; it is situated at the very source of the -Euphrates, which issues from a cavern in the mountain of Dúmlí Sultán, -a delightful, refreshing water, which seems to be alluded to in the -Korán by the verse: “I gave thee the Keuther.” Trouts of a cubit’s -length sport in it; their bodies are ruby-coloured and interspersed -with smaragdine spots. Umúdúm Sultán the Saint, who is buried here, -protects these fish, so that it is impossible to catch them; but a -farsang below they are taken by fishermen, and fill the brains of those -who eat them with ambergris; however much a man may eat, he is never -incommoded by them. The Pilgrimage to Rúmlí Sultán is much frequented. -We marched five hours to the south, on the plain of Erzerúm and entered -it, God be thanked! in perfect health. Before I changed my dress, I -laid the letters and presents of the khán of Eriván at the feet of my -gracious Lord the Páshá, and gave him a detailed account of all the -castles, towns, kents and villages, which I had seen on my journey. He -gave me a splendid dress and three hundred piastres bath-money, besides -two purses, which he assigned to me on the extraordinary revenues of -the custom-houses. I had remained scarcely a week, when a message -arrived from the Khán of Eriván complaining that some of the soldiers -of Karss had molested one of his caravans, and requesting that an Aghá -might be sent to convey the caraván safe to Erzerúm. In consequence of -this letter I was sent back into Persia on the tenth day. - - - - -JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR, 1057, (1647). - - -From Erzerúm twelve hours to the east, is the castle of Hassan Kala’a -which has already been described; and further on to the east, through -the plain of Pássin, the village Bádil Jovánlí, an Armenian village. -We passed it, and reached in nine hours the station of Meidánjik; -the inhabitants are all Armenians. Ten hours further is the castle -of Mishingerd in the province of Erzerúm, a square castle on a chalk -cliff; which has a Dizdár and a hundred and fifty men, two hundred -houses, but no market; a mosque of Sultán Súleimán Khán, without a -garden. We passed to the east, through the valley of Khándere, by the -ruined convent called the seven churches, through a narrow straight, -and then to the west by a flowery meadow for six hours to the castle -Bardúz, in the territory of Karss, built by Lady Kerím-ud-din, the -daughter of King Azz-ud-din of the dynasty of the Auk-koyúnlí. The -chronograph is written on the gate; there is a Dizdár and a hundred and -fifty men in garrison, a small bath, but no garden. From hence we went -southward to the castle of Gejkerán built by Núshirván; this is the old -town of Dúdemán Gejkerán which is mentioned in the ancient histories -of the wars of Pízen and Efrasiáb. It was ruined by Holagú at the same -time as Baghdád, but flourished again under the government of Kara -Yússúf Sháh of the family of the Kara Koyúnlí. Timúr again destroyed -it. It was conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá, and now belongs to -the government of Karss, it is a square castle. The karss of the Beg -amounts to fifteen thousand three hundred and fifty aspers. According -to the canon of Sultán Súleimán there are two thousand two hundred men -including the troops of the Beg; a Dizdár, an Aghá of the Azábs and -Gonullí, with three hundred men in garrison, a judge of a hundred and -fifty aspers, twelve hundred houses covered with earth, three small -mosques, and from forty to fifty shops. Eight hours further to the -east we reached the frontier fortress of the Ottomans, the castle of -Karss. There are three towns of that name; one is in Silefka, the -Karss of Karatáshlik; the second, the Karss of Mera’ash, and the last -that of Dúdemán, which is the present one. In the time of Murad III. -it was conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá. The repairing this town -after it was ruined by the Persians, was undertaken by the Ottoman -generals, and on this occasion a large square marble stone was found, -which they placed on the gate looking to the south-east, and which had -the following inscription:—“This Castle was built under Vezír Fírúz -Akaí in the time of Sultán Azz-ud-dín; and repaired by his daughter -Sultana Karím-ud-dín. May God illuminate her tomb!” Lala Páshá who is -the last builder of Karss, placed this stone on the wall, however, -out of reverence for its ancient builders. Lala Páshá repaired it in -seventy days, within which time he completed its munition. A soldier -came to relate to him a dream which he had, and which was as follows. -An old man appeared to him, saying, his name was Abúl Hassan Kharkaní, -that he was buried here, and that if a well at his feet was to be dug, -marvellous things would be seen. Some hundred workmen were instantly -set to dig the well, when they found a red granite tomb, on which was -written “I am the martyr, Saíd Kharkání.” He was found quite fresh, -and the blood yet flowing from his right arm. The tomb was re-covered -amidst prayers, and Lala Páshá raised a convent upon it. The government -of Karss has been given at different times to Vezírs of three tails as -barley-money (Arpalik); the karss is sixty thousand aspers. It belonged -formerly to the government of Erzerúm, but is now a distinct province -with the addition of Pássin. There are seven sanjaks, a Kiaya, and Emín -of the Defter, a Defterdár of the treasury and of the timárs, but no -Kiatib Kiaya and Emín of the Chaúshes, Its sanjaks are; Little Erdehán; -Khojúján; Zárshád; Gejewán; Kaghzmán; Werishán, and Karss the seat of -the Páshá, there are seven ziámets and a hundred and two timárs, with -the Jebellis and troops of the Páshá, three thousand exquisite troops; -a Colonel, a Captain, a judge with three hundred aspers, a Dizdár, -an Aghá of seven companies of Azábs, and an Aghá of the Janissaries, -armourers, and gunners; the Colonels reside for the most part at -Erzerúm: the garrison consists of fifteen hundred excellent men; the -garrisons of Wán, Karss, and Akhachka are decidedly brave men. Their -pay is collected from the produce of the ferry-boats at Bírejik on the -Euphrates, and from the villages Súrúj and Bombúj at Haleb, amounting -annually to seventy thousand aspers. The government of Karss is divided -into ten jurisdictions, and eight districts; there is a Sheikh-ul-Islám -(Muftí); Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Emírs), and other distinguished -men. - - -_Size of the castle of Karss._ - -At a gun-shot distance on the north side is a high mountain, at the -foot of which this fortress rises on a separate hill; the lower castle -is situated in the plain, and has five strong walls. The gate of the -outer or lower castle looks to the east, and that of the inner or -upper castle to the west. There is only the house of the commander, -and barracks for the garrison of two hundred men; no bath, market, or -any remarkable building. The lower town or suburb is surrounded by -two strong walls, and has three iron gates which are adorned with all -kinds of armour. One of these gates on the west is the water-gate, also -called the gate of the troops, looking towards Erzerúm; the second or -middle gate opens to Kaghzmún; the third to the east is the gate of -Behrám-páshá, opening towards Eriván. Watchmen keep watch the whole -night, lighting torches and lamps. The lower castle is surrounded by a -lake instead of a ditch, which encircles it from the middle gate to the -gate of Behrám-páshá, and hence it is impossible to get possession of -the fortress. There are two hundred and twenty strong towers, and two -thousand and eighty battlements; the circumference of the whole is five -thousand seven hundred paces. The buildings consist of three thousand -houses, forty-seven mosques, in eight of which prayer is performed on -Fridays; the most remarkable is that of Sheikh Hassan Kharkání, built -by Lala Páshá; the mosque of Waíz Efendí at the water-gate; the great -mosque of Súleimán Efendí, which was formerly a church; the mosque of -Hossein Kiaya called the red church; the mosque of Omar Efendí, which -was destroyed when the Persians got possession of the castle, solely -on account of being named after Omar, and turned into a stable; the -mosque of Káltákjí-zadeh, at the gate of Behrám-páshá; the mosque of -Beirám Chelebi-zadeh; and on the south side of the town across the -bridge, the mosque of Emír Yússúf Páshá, all covered with terraces. -There are eighteen schools for boys, but no colleges for lectures on -the sciences, which are all held in the mosques. Within the water-gate -is the bath of Emír Yússúf Páshá; within the middle gate is the old -bath. There are no houses for reading of the Korán or tradition, or -for dining the poor, who are, however, well taken care of by private -generosity; there is no stone Bezestán, but two hundred shops in which -Indian and Persian wares are found. No gardens and vineyards on account -of the cold temperature of the climate. The inhabitants are a lively -set of people who gain their living by agriculture and commerce. - -We travelled from Karss twelve hours to the north, passed the village -of Arjúk and the valley of Bághirsak, and the summer quarter (Yaila) -of Olghár twelve hours long. It is three journies from hence to the -castle of Akhiska (otherwise Akhaska, Akhachka). From Karss to Erdehán -is one journey by the way of Korgha-bazár. I arrived at last at the -object of my journey, the castle of Gúle, and on the same day I entered -it, read the letters of our gracious Lord, the Páshá of Erzerúm, to -the Aghás of Gúle, who excused themselves, saying: “that they never -had disturbed the Persian caraván, and that it was a calumny of the -inhabitants of Kaghzemán.” Next day we mounted our horses, proceeded -for a whole day to the south, and arrived at the castle of Kaghzemán. -The towns and castles on the Kiblah side of the Aras are all reckoned -to be on the frontier of Azerbeiján. The river Aras rises on the west -from the mountains of Bíngol (thousand lakes) flows to the east, joins -the barley river (Arpachayí), and the Zenghí. The castle of Kaghzemán -being situated on the Kiblah side of the Aras is reckoned to be on -the frontier of Azerbeiján, but belongs to the Ottoman government -of Karss. It is named after its builder, one of the daughters of -Núshirván. It was taken out of the hands of Uzún Hassan by Sháh Ismail, -and then submitted to Sultán Súleimán. It is the seat of a Sanjak Beg -whose khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nine ziámets, -a hundred and seventy-eight timárs; nine hundred feudal militia, a -judge appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers, and a garrison of -three hundred men, who are paid by the impost on salt; the salt mines, -and a quarry of mill stones, are on the west side of the castle. The -mill-stones of Persia and Rúm come from Kaghzemán; the borax of the -goldsmiths, barbers, whetting-stones, and the common whetting-stones -are extracted from the mines of Kaghzemán; in two places gold and -silver are found, but as the product was exceeded by the expenses, -they were abandoned; there are altogether eleven mines. The castle is -a square strong building standing on a hill on the bank of the Aras, -there are seven hundred small houses; it is not a commercial town -(Bender), but a frontier town (Serhadd). Mount Aghrí which appears to -the west, is one of the most praiseworthy mountains in the world, it is -near the town, and is the summer abode (Yaila) of Turcomans. The air is -temperate and allows of the cultivation of gardens on some spots; the -inhabitants are mild and some of them fair. - -The Levend troops (irregular levies) sing Persian songs with harmonious -voices. As soon as I entered the town, the Diván assembled, and -notwithstanding the repeated oaths of the members of it, that they had -not molested the Persian caravan, but only taken their custom duties, I -took seven Aghás of them with me to prove the truth of what they said, -by their presence at Erzerúm, whereunto I returned. The Beg and eleven -Aghás presented me with a purse of money, two horses (Mahmúdí), and two -Georgian slaves; and we travelled towards the east for nine hours, to -the castle of Moghazberd, it is a district belonging to Karss, built -by Mogház a Persian Khán; it passed into the hands of the Ak-koyúnlí -of Sháh Ismail, and then into those of Sultán Súleimán; the garrison -consists of a hundred and fifty men; the castle is built of stone in a -pentagon form on a rock, not commanded by any neighbouring height; it -has six hundred houses with gardens and vineyards; a mosque, khán, bath -and ten shops; at the foot of this castle flows the river Arpachaí, -which comes from the mountains of Georgia, and mingles with the Aras -at the Kend of Tekeltí. The castle of Mogházberd is contiguous to the -territory of the Persian castle Shúregil, which alone remained in the -power of the Persians, meanwhile all the districts of it belong to the -government of Karss; the river Arpachaí forms the limits: the eastern -tract of this town is Persian, and the western, Ottoman, belonging -to Karss. Opposite to Mogházberd, at a journey’s distance, is the -castle of Ana on a hill, a square mud castle, built by Núshirván, the -inhabitants are Armenians; between Ana and Karss are two mountains; we -passed this castle and after nine hours journey we arrived at Zárshid -on the utmost frontier, built by the Persian Sháhs, it is the seat of -a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Karss; in the time of war, twelve hundred -men bear arms, the judge has a hundred and fifty aspers; there is no -Muftí nor Nakíb; but a Dizdár (Commander of the castle) and a hundred -and fifty men. The castle is situated on a hill in a plain, at a day’s -journey from Karss to the east on the road to Eriván, there are three -hundred houses with terraces, a mosque, a convent, a bath, and a khan. -Nine hours further eastward is the kent Thálish, on the frontier of -Eriván; we passed Kara Taib, and arrived after twelve hours march -to the east at Three Churches, a great convent built by the Greek -Emperors; the convent is divided into three parts, in one are Greek, in -the others Armenian nuns; these Three Churches and the Seven Churches -on the road to Nakhshiván are the most famous convents of Persia. It -is a convent well worth seeing on account of its monuments and strange -talismans. - -The balsam, called Mirún-yághí, is made here, of plants boiled in a -kettle upon a carpet, to which fire does no harm; the balsam which -is skimmed off from the kettle is put into jars, and used through -the whole of Frengistán as a panacea or universal remedy. In the -neighbourhood of this castle is an iron bar suspended in a cave without -being supported up from above below; the Infidels believe it to have -been suspended by a miracle of Simeon the Apostle: if a strong wind -blows it vibrates, and it is enclosed by iron rails to prevent it being -touched by the profane. The explanation of this matter is, that the -architect who made the vault of this cave, placed on the top of it a -great magnet, and a similar one on the floor, so that the iron bar is -kept in equilibrium between them. This is what I, shortsighted Evliyá, -found out by my own weak intellect. If it please God, there is no -blunder in our guess. The convent is inhabited by about five hundred -monks; almost every night five or six hundred horsemen, either from -Persia or Turkey arrive here, and are entertained by the monks with -milk, honey and dates. From hence we passed to the east through level -fields for nine hours, crossed the great rivers Aras and Zenghí, and -arrived for the second time at Eriván, where the Khán had just returned -from the wedding of his sister at Bakú, and lodged me at his house. The -next day I repaired to the Diván with the Aghás of Karss and Kaghzemán, -who complained, in the strongest terms, of their having been unjustly -accused of molesting the Persian caravan; a long discussion ensued, -at the end of which the Aghás appeared to be innocent, and the men -of the caraván to be calumniators. Takkí Alí Khán feasted the Aghás -three days, gave me five tománs Abássí, and a horse, and for the Páshá -a string of camels, laden with rice, also some letters. Charged with -these, I set out to return to Erzerúm. - - -_Journeys on our Return._ - -We set out from Eriván, with a caraván of seven hundred persons toward -the west, and reached after five hours the kent Abdallí, a Persian -village of a hundred houses, which at the time of the conquest was -fixed to be the frontier of Karss. We advanced to the north four hours -to kent Ayárán with five hundred houses; the inhabitants of which -are Gokdúlak; from hence through mountains of luxuriant vegetation -to kent Sheráb-kháneh, situated on a hill, of three hundred Armenian -houses with many gardens, it is a ziámet on the frontier of Karss. We -continued our journey to the west, passing over fertile steppes, and -seeing many castles, which had been ruined by Sultán Murad IV. After -four hours we arrived at kent Begum; the daughter of Uzún Hassan Sháh -of that name built it; the Persian Princesses are even now styled -Beghum: there are three hundred houses of Armenians and Georgians; it -was ruined by Timúr, but seven high arches are still extant among the -ruins on the border of Arpachaí, where the Princes of the Ak-koyúnlí, -Meimendi Khán, Ashár Khán, Otgabai Khán, Gúndúzbai Khán and other Sháhs -are buried, some lying, some seated on their thrones, as if they were -in life, with their names, and the chronographs of their deaths. The -three sides of this old town are a great Yaila. From hence we went to -the west through marshy ground, and some meadows, to the old castle of -Shúreger; Hossein Bikara, delighted with its situation on the river -Arpachaí, built this town according to the advice of Doctor Shúrgerí; -it passed into the hands of Kara Yússúf and was destroyed by Timúr; -Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá ruined it again; large vaults and masses are -yet conspicuous amongst its ruins. The musical tune Shureh is said -to have been invented by Shúreger at the time he was building this -town, whose inhabitants all delight in music, and are famous singers. -The castle is in ruins, and no more than three hundred houses with -terraces are now existing. The half of its districts being situated -on the other bank of Arpachaí belong to the government of Eriván; -those on this side to Karss. It is a mountainous fertile tract of -Georgia which extends northward to the Aras and Zenghí, and along -Mount Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; and on the west to Erzerúm. From -Shúreger we advanced to the west, crossing five small rivers, some of -which come from Georgia, some from the mountains of Azghúr, and flow -into the Aras; some of the ground is marshy. We then arrived at the -ferry of a river, the name of which I am ignorant of. Sultán Murad -crossed this river on his expedition to Eriván, and the spot is yet -marked, where his tent was fixed; the inhabitants planted trees round -it, and made it a prayer-place. Five hours further to the west through -fertile ground is the village of Búlánik, a free ziámet of Sefer Aghá, -of three hundred houses. Seven hours further is the castle of Karss; -we remained a night as guests with Alí Aghá, and continued our journey -next day to the village of Dushen Kia (the falling rock), on the -frontier of Karss, with two hundred houses; then five hours, ascending -and descending through high fir-woods and meadows to Wernishán on the -frontier of Karss, formerly a sanjak. The opposite shore of the Aras -belongs to the castle of Bayazíd, and the Alaï Beg of Wernishán resides -here; it is an Armenian village of three hundred houses. Akhiska is -two journeys from hence to the north; six hours further to the west -through fields to Zeinkhán on the territory of Karss, of two hundred -houses, a Dizdár, a garrison, a khán, a mosque, a bath, and forty -shops; it is the seat of a Súbáshí subordinate to Karss; the castle is -square and built of stone, the inhabitants are an obstinate people. We -continued our journey through fir woods for seven hours to Soghánlí -Belí, a strait famous all over Persia and Turkey for the difficulty -in crossing it; three hours beyond this straight we reached the kent -Kúmadámí, of a hundred and fifty houses, on the frontier of sanjak -Pássín, an Armenian village on the banks of the Aras. Eight hours -further is the village of Pássín, of three hundred Armenian houses, -in a plain, it is the ziámet of Ja’afer Efendí the land registrar -(Moharerí Wiláyet) at Erzerúm; five hours further along the Aras is the -station of Goz; we passed in sight of the bridge of Chobán, built by -the dynasty of that name, through level fields, and arrived at Hassan -Kala’a, which has been already described. Four hours from hence we -arrived safe at Erzerúm, where we found our gracious Lord the Páshá, -on the walk of Abd-ur-rahman Ghází; I presented the camels, letters -and caraván of the khán of Eriván, and reassumed my functions as Clerk -of the Custom-house, assisting every night at the assemblies of the -Páshá. At this time the Capijí Alí Aghá arrived from Constantinople, -with a Khattí-sheríf of Sultán Ibrahím, by which the Páshá received -the Imperial command to repair with all the troops of his government -to Karss, to be ready for the war against the Infidel Persians. The -Páshá paid obeisance to the noble túghra and instantly dispatched -commissaries to Erzerúm, Mera’ash and Sívás, in order to raise and -collect troops. I, poor Evliyá, received a commission to go to Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, the governor of the sanjaks of Sánja and Tortúm. - - - - -JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A. - - -I left Erzerúm with nine servants, proceeding to the north in the plain -of Erzerum, two hours to the village of Kán, of two hundred Armenian -houses; five hours more to the north we came to the village of Sheikh -Umúdúm, which has been described in our journey to Georgia. Six hours -further to the north, through vallies and hills, to the bridge of the -Georgian straight, a bridge built over the Euphrates by Shah Uzún -Hassan. It is on this spot that the rebel Abáza Páshá cut to pieces -forty regiments of janissaries sent against him; their bones are piled -up near the bridge: the village of Gúrgí-boghází (Georgian straight), -has two hundred houses, in the district of Erzerúm. We passed to -the north over flowery meadows nine hours to Rúmlí Sultán, a great -saint buried underneath a cupola. Here is the cave whence springs -the Euphrates, which is above all praise, since it is mentioned with -praise in the Korán. At Keifí, one of the sanjaks of Erzerúm, are the -iron mines, where iron shot are cast; several hundred little rivulets -run from these iron mines into the Euphrates, and somewhat spoil the -sweetness of the water; but from its source in the rock of Rumlí Sultán -unto Keifí it is the most delicious and most healthy water in the -world. Rumlí Sultán was a Saint, who appreciating the good qualities of -this river, took up his residence at its source; it is a village of two -hundred houses. We advanced three hours to the north to Akchekala’a in -the territory of the sanjak of Tortúm, built by Ulama Páshá in order to -control Georgia; in course of time the castle has been dismantled of -its walls and garrison. It lies north of Tortúm, and has six hundred -houses, a khán, and a mosque; it was destroyed by Bayazíd II. when -governor of Trebisonde in his youth. We proceeded six hours to the -west, to the village of Saúlú of a hundred houses in the territory of -Jánja, on the top of a high mountain without gardens; and seven hours -further to the west, to the castle of Jánja, otherwise Gumish Kháneh -(silver house). I went straight to the Court of Justice, and read the -firman, which all the inhabitants were ready to obey. I remained as -guest in the house of the inspector of the silver mines and began to -visit the town. It was built by Alexander, one of whose philosophers -discovered the silver mines. Mohammed II. conquered it by the sword -after the defeat of Uzún Hassan in the field of Terján. Silver is here -found in such abundance, that every child has a silver plate. The -inspectorship is let for seven million aspers; the inhabitants are -exempted from all taxes, because they are obliged to labour in the -silver mines, seventy of which are worked. These are the richest silver -mines in Turkey, the others are those of Kághzemán, Hakkárí, Bingol, -Sanjar, Akár, Aswán, Libanon, and Merzifún. These are the Asiatic and -African silver mines of the Ottoman Empire; the European ones are the -following: on the frontier of Bosnia, Sira, Berinjesse near Uskúb at -Karatova, Novaborda near Pereshtina, Sidr Kaissi near Salonia; but -their veins are thin; those of Jánja are as big as an arm, perfectly -pure silver: There was also a mint here, but it is now abandoned, I -however, got some aspers with the inscription, coined at Jánja. After -taking a good view of the town I was presented by the principal men -with three hundred piastres, a vase for rosewater (gulábdán), and -a censer (bokhúrdán) of silver, and after two days march through -mountains and straights I arrived at the old fortress of Baibúrd. -The Princes of the family of Akkoyúnlí, who came with the Dánishmend -family, and with the ancestors of the Ottomans from Mahán to Rúm, -first settled here, and having found a rich treasure of silver in the -mines, by which they became rich (Bai), the place was called Baiyúrd, -which was changed into Baibúrd. Mahmúd Pasha the Vezír of Mohammed II. -conquered it from Uzún Hassan. According to the description of Sultán -Súleímán, it is the seat of a Súbashí separated from the khass of the -Vezír of Erzerúm, a jurisdiction of a hundred and fifty aspers, the -revenues of the judge amount annually to six purses. There is a Muftí, -a Nakíb, Sipáh-kiayayerí, and Yenicherí-serdárí. - - -_Form and size of the Castle._ - -It is a pentagon, and stands on a high hill, the height of the wall -is forty royal cubits, it has no ditch, on account of its position; -there are three hundred old houses, but no market, khán, or bath; -two gates, one to the east, opening towards the gardens, and one to -the west, by which you descend to the lower town, consisting of more -than a thousand houses with terraces; there are nineteen quarters of -Moslims, and nine of Armenians; no Jews nor gipsies, but a great number -of Greeks, because it is not far from the seashore. A great number of -its inhabitants are Turks and Turcomans. Mohammed II. transplanted -hither a colony of three thousand men of the inhabitants of Tíre, whose -descendants are very orderly, good men. Its mosques are pleasant, the -most frequented of them is that of the conqueror, in the Castle; in the -market that of Záhid Efendí, a mosque covered with a terrace in the -olden style; its minareh is a slender building of bricks; at its left -are the Court of Justice, the Imperial dyeing-house and the Flour-hall. -Near to the women’s bath is the mosque of Kázizádeh Mohammed Chelebi, -an old but sweet mosque; near the river Jorúgh, is the mosque of -Shengel-baí; the part of the town beyond the river Jorúgh is called -Yoris Mahallessí; there is a dining establishment and college, with -three baths, the first is the bath at the bridge; the second, that of -Alí Shengáh; the third, the red bath; the temperature of these baths is -most excellent: there are three convents of Dervishes, and a great khán -close to the mosque of Kázizádeh; before this khán there is a market -every Sunday attended by from five hundred to a thousand persons; -three hundred shops, an elegant Bezestán, and some coffee-houses. -Of its provisions, fresh butter, white pies, and a kind of wheat -called camel’s teeth are much renowned; so are also the carpets and -felts of Baibúrd, light, well-coloured, fanciful carpets, which are -exported into all countries. The air being rather cold, it is not -very favourable to flowers and fruits, but it is amply provided with -fruit from the neighbouring places. There are some pretty faces, and -seventy schools for boys, who are quick and clever; the old men live -to the age of a hundred and fifty, who losing their teeth pronounce -with difficulty the letter S, but the women are very eloquent. Erzerúm -is two journeys direct north from hence. A man may go from here to -Erzerúm, by footpaths, in two days, and on horseback in four days. - - -_Description of the River Jorúgh._ - -It rises in the mountains of Erzerúm, supplies water to a great number -of fields, and flows straight to the lower town of Baibúrd; the two -banks are adorned with many elegant palaces and koshks and gardens, -where the inhabitants delight to fish; its name is corrupted from -Júírúh (river of spirit) a name it well deserves by its most excellent -qualities. The inhabitants of the town cut their wood on the mountain, -and putting on it a private mark throw it into the river, which it -floats down until it is stopped in the middle of the town by a great -rake, where each person comes to fetch out his wood. This river comes -to Baibúrd from the east, washes the rocks of the castle, passes -through many well-cultivated villages, and flows at the bottom of the -Castle of Conia, a large river, into the Black Sea. Some hundred boats -of the Lázes, which are called Sarpúna and Mengesila, navigate this -river to Georgia and Mingrelia, and exchange their merchandize for -slaves. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -The mountain facing the mosque in the quarter on the opposite bank of -the Jorúgh, is called the parrot’s mountain, it is the burying-place -of Abd-ul wahháb A’ari, and is a general walk. This high mountain -commands the town, but cannon shot cannot reach it from hence, the -distance being too great, and the river Jorúgh flowing between. The -hill which rises in the town, opposite the mosque, is ascended in half -an hour. The Pilgrimage of Osmán Ghází, who is here buried underneath a -cupola of bricks. The Pilgrimage of Jághir Kánlidedeh has the greatest -credit with the inhabitants of this town, as he is a recent Saint; -people yet alive having witnessed his miracles. Near this place, an -able architect built a bridge of fir-tree across the river Jorúgh, in -the shape of a swallow’s wing, to which the fir bridge over the Duina -at Fúja Shehrí in Herzgovina can alone be compared; but this bridge -of Baibúrd having only a single arch, is higher and finer than that -of Fúja. In the cemetery to the Kiblah of the town, are buried many -thousand great men, but I have mentioned only those I visited. After -taking a good view of the town, and having collected the number of -troops fixed by the firmán, I received from the Súbashí a present of -three hundred piastres, and continued my journey accompanied by fifty -armed men. - - -_Description of the Castle of Tortúm._ - -It was built by the old King of Georgia Mamerúl, was conquered by Uzún -Hassan, and by Mohammed II., and then fell again into the hands of -the Georgians. Selím I. first retook it when Governor of Trebisonde, -and Sultán Súleimán lost it again. He despatched his second Vezír -Ahmed Páshá to reconquer it, who took it after a siege of seven days -and an assault of seven hours, cutting all the Infidels to pieces; -and providing it with stores and men. He then advanced further into -Georgia, and the two castles of Nejákh and Mírakhor surrendered. From -hence he proceeded to Akchekala’a, which being a stronghold was not -taken till the seventh day. The Begs of the castles of Penkerd, Asherd, -and the little Akchekala’a paid obeisance. The district of Bevána with -three hundred villages did the same, and the inhabitants remain Ottoman -subjects even to the present time. The castles Isper and Pertekrek -yielded to the Ottoman power; so did also the district of Dadánlí with -seventy-six villages, and fifteen castles, large and small; the castles -of Tekkhíss and the valley of Bersássa were conquered, and Tortúm was -put down in the register as the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to -Erzerúm; it furnishes sixty thousand men, and the Páshá’s revenues -amount annually to twelve thousand piastres in a fair way: Its judge -is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers, and there are nine well -cultivated districts, the principal of which are those of Bervána, -Dadánlí and Isper, their annual revenue amounts to three thousand -piastres. - - -_Size and Shape of the Castle._ - -It is built in a square form, on a high rock; an iron gate opens to the -east; in the castle is a mosque of Sultán Súleimán’s time, and in the -lower town is seven hundred houses and seven mosques, two baths, two -kháns, twelve schools and seventy shops, but no stone bezestán, imáret -or medresseh. The pears, grapes and peaches are much praised; as it -is only two journeys from Erzerúm, the merchants send chests full of -fruit to that place; the inhabitants are righteous, hospitable men; -the river which flows through it goes into the Black Sea; in the town -of Tortúm saltpetre is produced for Government. While I was collecting -troops here, and visiting the town, news arrived to Ghází Sídí Ahmed, -the Páshá of the place, that the Cossacks had assailed the castle of -Gonia; he instantly put on his armour, mounted on horseback, summoned -all the Zaims and Timariots who wished to volunteer in this expedition, -assembled about a thousand men, and started with his troop under the -triple shout of Allah. We marched a whole day and night, reinforcing -our number on the road, and halted next morning in a valley. We -continued our course to the north for the whole of the second day, -passed on to the frontier of Trebisonde and entered that of Gonia: -here we met the Mingrelian troops, which came to join the Páshá, and -were honourably received, they consisted of three hundred well armed -horsemen with lances, and about a thousand riflemen with flying hair, -between forty and fifty years of age, with strange figures and ugly -faces, whom the Páshá flattered with good words. This night we passed -along the river Jorúgh, and arrived next morning at the castle of -Gonia on the Black Sea, which we saw filled with Infidel Cossacks, who -at the moment they saw us roared out, Jasus! Jasus! (Jesus); seventy -Chaikas were moored behind the castle. The Páshá with a hundred and -fifty Aghás, and all the troops which had joined him on the way, with -loud cries of Allah, attacked the ships lying in the river, cut the -cables, and let the boats float out into the Black Sea, cutting down or -making prisoners, those who were left to guard the boats, and towing -the Chaikas into a bay at a gunshot’s distance from the castle; the -Infidels, seeing they could not escape in their boats, acted like -swine that are laid hold of, and began to fire. The Moslim troops -on their side prepared every thing for an assault; and made ladders -of the masts and rigging of the captured ships. The Mingrelian and -Georgian troops entered the trenches in broad daylight, the walls were -fired upon, and the assault was made from all sides. The Páshá led -the assault himself with such courage and spirit, that the Infidels -had not time to recollect themselves, but fled to some ships, which -were left on the Jorúgh. Some of these boats being overloaded went -to the bottom, those who by swimming reached the opposite shore were -received by the muskets of the Moslims and went to Hell: seventeen -of the ships on the Jorúgh were burnt, and two hundred Infidels, who -could not re-enter the castle, were taken prisoners; seventy Moslims -fell martyrs in this triple assault. The Páshá now pressed the arrival -of the troops from the district of Sanjak Batúm. Finally there arrived -some thousand Lázes armed with lances, casques, muskets, and sounding -their war fifes, called Zígúla, with white banners waving; they joined -the Páshá, halting on the bank of the river. The Páshá left them not a -moment’s rest, but encouraged them by addressing them in the Circassian -language. Thus a crowd was collected who threw up earth and faggots in -mounds before the castle, on which the storming ladders were fixed. -The neighbouring mountains re-echoed the shouts of Allah! the Moslims -heaped bundles on bundles of twigs, and began to climb the ladders -like spiders and goats of Isper; the bundles heaped up before the gate -were set on fire. Ghází Ahmed Páshá himself mounted on the tower at -the eastern corner, and by his example encouraged the general assault. -From early dawn till the afternoon, neither the Páshá nor his troops -had tasted a bit of bread; in the afternoon the castle was conquered, -and I, poor Evliya, had the advantage of first proclaiming on its -walls the sound of Ottoman prayer. The castle being now filed with -victors, seven hundred Infidels were taken prisoners, and eight hundred -heads cut off, and planted on the walls; the seventy-seven boats were -towed back to the castle, and moored ready with all provisions and -munition. The rejoicings lasted three days and three nights, during -which the castle was illuminated. God be praised that I witnessed such -a conquest. At the moment when prayer was first proclaimed on the -wall, there appeared, on the eastern side of the Jorúgh, some thousand -standards and banners, who answered the report of the salutes fired -with the shouts of Allah; these were the troops of the Páshá of Karss, -who had arrived before Gonia after a flying march from Erzerúm, and now -encamped on the bank of the Jorúgh. - -Gonia now became the meeting-place of the whole army summoned by -the governor of Erzerúm; forty or fifty boats of Láz Mengesile, who -descended the river of Jorúgh, took to flight as soon as they were -aware, that the castle was again in the hands of the Moslims, and that -an Ottoman army was encamped along the shore of the river. They were -pursued by Sídí Ghází Páshá, who captured forty-seven boats, made three -hundred Mingrelians prisoners, and drowned about six hundred in the -river. This expedition was thus crowned with three victories: 1. The -conquest of the boats; 2. that of the castle; 3. the conquest of the -Mingrelian boats, which had arrived to the assistance of the Cossacks -with provisions. Sídí Ahmed Páshá distributed those provisions amongst -the Moslim victors, so that plenty now prevailed in the Ottoman camp. -The night was again passed with illuminations and feasting; the -shouts of Allah, and the sounds of the Ottoman drum interrupting the -silence of the night. The next day clouds of dust rising on the side -of the Jorúgh announced the arrival of a new army, whose glittering -armour dazzled the eyes; it was that of Koja Sefer Páshá, the Vezír of -Chaldir, who summoned by the command of our Lord the Páshá of Erzerúm, -arrived with the Georgian army in great speed to the assistance of the -Castle of Gonia; Sídí Ahmed Páshá went with the other Páshás to meet -them, and it was a grand sight to see these troops on fine horses, -well armed with spears, swords, shields, and muskets, with flying hair -and strange figures. When Sefer Páshá himself came with the train of -his guards (Matarají, Tufenkjí, and Shátir), he received Sídí Páshá’s -salute, and then rode on his right, Báki Páshá keeping on the left. -When they approached the castle a general salute of guns and musketry -gave them welcome. Provisions now arrived in abundance at the Imperial -camp from Georgia, Mingrelia, Láz, and Batúm. Next day fresh troops -appeared to the south of Gonia, it was the Páshá of Trebisonde, who -came with three thousand good troops; in seventy boats (sandal) and -a hundred ships of the Lázes, called Mengesila, he carried plenty -of provisions, and ten guns. Sídí Ahmed Páshá being acquainted with -his arrival neither went himself to meet him, nor sent any troops to -perform that ceremony. He halted with his troops on one side of the -castle. Having waited on Sídí Ahmed Páshá he received him without the -least honour, but with the following speech. - -“I am the Páshá of Tortúm, which is from four to five journeys distant -from Gonia, and it was not my duty to hasten to its assistance; but I -did it for the sake of the faith and the Empire. You, Páshá, who are -the Governor of Trebisonde, and Begler-beg of two tails, and at only -two journies from Gonia, why did you not arrive till within these seven -days to its assistance. Quick, executioner!” - -The Páshás of Pássín, Akhiska and Kaighí interfered, saying, that it -was against constitutional law, that he being only a Páshá of one -tail, should kill one of two. He replied, “By God! if it is righteous, -according to religious duties, I’ll cut off his head, even if he be a -Páshá of seven tails; in consideration, however, of your intercession, -I won’t kill him, but relate the business to the Emperor; call quickly -for the Diván Efendí (Secretary).” While the dispatch was being drawn -up, orders were given to put seventy of the principal officers of the -troops of Trebisonde into prison, and they were accordingly shut up in -the castle, for not having urged the Páshá to hasten to the deliverance -of Gonia. The Diván Efendí made out the account of the conquest of -Gonia, and the accusation against the Páshá of Trebisonde; it was -signed and sealed by the three Begler-Begs, by the Judges of Gonia -and Trebisonde, and was ready to be sent off, when the inhabitants -of Trebisonde threw themselves at the feet of Sídí Ahmed Páshá, -supplicating not to be accused to the Porte. Sídí Páshá persisting in -his resolution, showed all the obstinacy of a Circassian. The principal -men of Trebisonde however, solicited the Páshás to intercede with the -Commander-in-chief Sídí Ahmed; and it was ultimately arranged, after -three days negotiation, that the Páshá and principal men of Trebisonde -should give forty-three purses of money, three sable pelisses, twelve -beautiful boys, twelve girls with eyes like Narcissuses, and of sweet -language, a silken tent richly embroidered with gold, a sword set with -jewels, a mare, seven quivers, vases of silver, the work of goldsmiths -of Trebisonde, bridles, hatchets, candlesticks of silver, three strings -of camels, three of mules, and a hundred and twenty horses. By these -gifts they obtained the favour of not being named in the report to -the Emperor; to whom only were mentioned the Begler Begs, Alaï and -Sanjak Begs, who had hastened to the deliverance of Gonia, and this -report was sent by Gurji Beg Zadeh to Constantinople. Another Kapijí -Báshí was despatched with the same news to the governor of Erzerúm, -but at the moment he was setting out, clouds of dust announced the -arrival of fresh troops on the banks of the Jorúgh; these were the -troops of Erzerúm sent to the succour of Gonia, under the command of -Hassan Atlí Aghá. The Zaims, Timariots and Jebellis of Erzerúm with -half the garrison, and the guards of the Páshá, forty banners of Segbán -and Sáríja (irregular levies of the Páshá), led by their colonels -(Bolúk Báshí). They were followed by a squadron of Delí, by another -of Gonullí (Volunteers), six squadrons of Tatar horsemen, a squadron -of six hundred Moteferrika, a squadron of two hundred Cháshnegírs -(carvers), a squadron of two hundred Serraj (saddle-men), squadron -of two hundred Kílarjí (men of the cellar), and lastly a squadron of -two hundred Ichaga (indoor servants), led by the Key-keeper (Miftáh -ghúlám agassí). They were also followed by forty chamberlains, each -one surrounded by from forty to fifty men clad in armour, on horses -of the finest breed, caparisoned with silver, and ornamented with -sea-horses bristles; they rode two and two, and immediately after them -came Hassan Atlí Aghá himself, with trumpets sounding, and took up his -encampment on the border of the fortress. All these chamberlains were -men, who had seen service in the quality of Kiayas (substitutes), Kaima -Káms (Lieutenants), Motessellims (Vice-governors) and Administrators -of provinces. Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave them a great repast, and next day -assembled all the architects of the country to repair the castle of -Gonia. The Turkish music played from seven sides, seventy tables were -spread, and day and night was spent in festivities. The side of the -castle that was damaged by the fire, and the mosque of Bayazíd II. was -first put in repair. Seven hundred men forming a new garrison, with a -new Beg, as Commander, were put into it with sufficient stores, and -all the arms taken from the enemy. Thus the castle of Gonia shone forth -in greater splendor than before. God be praised that I, poor Evliyá, -was so fortunate as to proclaim the first prayer on its newly conquered -walls! - -The troops of the sanjaks of Trebisonde and Bátúm were left for the -safety of the castle of Gonia, and the whole army of sixty thousand -men, then began to march along the banks of the river Jorúgh towards -Erzerúm. The army having halted on the bank of the river Jorúgh on -a large meadow surrounded with trees, a council was held, and Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, said:—“The Mingrelians, though belonging to the Province -of Trebisonde have rebelled, and I have related to the Emperor, that -we took their boats; which, together with those of the Russians, may -now wait in the port of Gonia for the Emperor’s decision. I have also -acquainted His Majesty that so many thousand Cossacks and Mingrelians -have fallen to the share of the Ottoman victors, as prisoners, and I -now intend to take vengeance on the Mingrelian infidels with this army, -ready for expedition, that it may gain some booty as compensation for -its journey.” The governor of Georgia, Sefer Páshá, who was very angry -at the Mingrelians, proposed that all the horsemen should join the foot -and undertake an inroad for booty, the Moslims of Akhiska and Georgia -leading the way, who were then also to share the spoil. The Council -broke up with this resolution, for the happy execution of which I said -a Fátihah. The cryers gave notice, that all Moslims who wished for -breeches and horses, for boys and girls, for money and booty, should be -ready in arms. This notice produced an astonishing effect, the Moslim -victors roared like lions, armed and washed themselves, and waited for -the orders of the Commander. - - -_Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia._ - -Ketgáj Páshá led the van of three hundred men, towards the Kiblah, -followed by three thousand men of Georgia and Akhaska, and by Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, at the head of nine thousand men. Bákí Páshá commanded the -rear of three hundred men; the troops of Erzerúm and Kara Hissár formed -the two wings; the sanjak Begs of Khinissin, Tekmán and Melázjerd -were deputed to provide the forage. We marched this day ten hours to -Zárchairí, a pleasant position between Mingrelia, and the sanjak of -Batúm. The next day we passed the Jorúgh, and Sefer Páshá began to -pillage the district of Darína; the twenty-two companies of Sárija -(irregular levies) of the Páshá, our gracious Lord, two thousand two -hundred brave men, pursued the fugitives in the mountains, made seven -hundred prisoners, and lost seven men as martyrs. The troops proceeded -till they arrived under the walls of castle of Merava, which was taken -by assault, with the loss of seventy Moslims, who drank the sherbet of -martyrdom; seven hundred men, five hundred women, two hundred girls, -and six hundred boys, were made prisoners. The pillage was pushed as -far as the districts of Georgia, and we arrived at the end of nine -hours, at the field of Boghdú; here a Soffa (or meadow seat) is shown, -where Sultán Selím I. was seated when Governor of Trebisonde. Two -spies sent by the Prince of Mingrelia, were taken prisoners, and they -showed the way (the necessary precautions being taken) to the district -of Tamaras Khán, whose son with a thousand horsemen and two thousand -infantry, met the Commander-in-chief, and led the Ottoman party of -pillage further against the Mingrelians, with whom he was angry. - -The pillaged districts were those of Pernák, Selsel, Perkán, Penák, -Gúmle, and Samárgha; we halted before the castle of Akhár, a small -round castle on a hill, built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; the -inhabitants are not very brave, but great thieves; two hundred and -fifty castles and villages were pillaged, and nine thousand prisoners -taken. Ketgáj Páshá, the leader of the van, alone took two thousand -beautiful girls, whom the commander-in-chief bought for a thousand -piastres, and sent them to Sultán Ibrahím with twenty other fine -maidens; they were so beautiful that the text of the Korán, “We have -created man in the finest shape,” seems to have been revealed only -for their praise. The booty was so rich, that a slave was sold for -ten piastres, an ox for half a piastre, and a sheep for five aspers. -The Beg of Báshajik sent to the Commander-in-chief a present of five -boys and five girls, and also gave me a boy and girl. We arrived -after eleven hours predatory march at a plain, in the middle of which -was a building raised by the Beg of Mingrelia, it was ruined by Uzún -Hassan, and is now contiguous to Batúm on the frontier of Mingrelia. -We passed the Castles, Nejákh, Merkhor, Akchekala’a, Chepek, Penkerd, -Asherd, Kúchúk Akchekala’a, the Begs of which all came with presents, -paying obeisance to Sídí Ahmed Páshá. These castles being situated on -high mountains, and in woody tracts, were passed by indulgently, but -the villages situated in the plain were all ravaged; the district of -Yúvána, overrun for the space of seven days, furnished such beautiful -boys and girls, that each of them was worth a treasure of Egypt. We -halted underneath the castle of Tekrek, the inhabitants of which -came with presents, to ward off the danger of the pillage, they were -threatened with; six districts more, the names of which I am ignorant -of, shared the common fate of havock. The Ottoman victors were now so -loaded with spoils and booty, that it became impossible to carry it -all away. Many of them returned bringing their booty to the Castle of -Gonia, and from thence to Trebisonde. - - -_Of the Language of the Mingrelians._ - -Georgia is inhabited by seventeen Christian tribes, the principal of -which are, the Achikbásh, Dadián, Shúshád, and Gúriel. The Mingrelians -are the last and most despised specimen of their language: one, _artí_; -two, _sherí_; three, _shumí_; four, _ámekh_; five, _khotí_; six, -_pishkúí_; seven, _ishkúí_; eight, _rúo_; nine, _júghúr_; ten, _wetí_. -Bread, _gúpál_; fire, _dájkhir_; shield, _púr_; sheep, _ashkhorí_; -girdle, _derkát_; head, _dúdí_; wood, _deshke_; dog, _joghúr_; ox, -_khijú_; calf, _kissin_; salt, _ajém_; swine, _gháj_; ass, _kirút_; -bear, _nút_; cheese, _kúl_; curds, _merjván_; come, _wai_; man, _chaí_; -sit down, _dakhúr_; girl, _tíne_; go, _halawlí_; come mother, _waí -diás_, &c. - -Mingrelia is inhabited by a great number of different tribes, who speak -different dialects; there are seventy different products; its sheep, -goats, swine and fine breed of horses (Kohailán) are renowned; there -are neither mules nor asses in the whole of Georgia and Mingrelia, -but a great number of foxes, wild cats, and martens; corn and wheat -are scarce as hardly any thing but millet and Lazúd (?) is sown; on -the high mountains are many nut and fir-trees, box-trees and cedars. -The inhabitants, like those of Mingrelia, Abaza, and Circassia, are -settled in the mountains; they have castles with gardens and churches. -In short, during seventy-seven days, we made the tour of Mingrelia and -Georgia, after which time the Ottoman troops took the direction of -Erzerúm; on the third day we came to the district of Darátlí, which is -contiguous to the sanjak of Tortúm. Perfect security being restored, -the troops were licensed to break up by the Vezír of Akhiska, Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, and we then went with the Georgian Begs towards Chaldir. -After fourteen hours we reached the valley of Yúvána, where the -inhabitants of Isper and Tortúm met us with presents. At the public -entrance into Tortúm, the Cossack and Mingrelian prisoners were dragged -along in chains; the inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the -Istikbál (solemn meeting. See Morier’s travels). Sídí Páshá himself -wore the plumes of honour (Jíghatelí) which the Governor of Erzerúm -had sent to him, put on his well caparisoned state horse, trappings of -six pieces of steel of Nakshiván, wrapped round his head a red sash -in the Mohammedan fashion, clad himself in blue steel with armour -on his thighs, and, looking of stupendous size, like a seven-headed -dragon he passed through the crowd who received his salute crying, -“Aleik awnallah eí ghází seifollah!” “God’s assistance be upon thee, -O victor, sword of God!” The guns of the castle of Tortúm saluted and -the mountains re-echoed the thundering noise. Sídí Páshá repaired to -his palace, and Ketgáj Páshá, Bákí Páshá and eight Sanjak Begs encamped -before the town for three days, and on the fourth the whole of the -troops moved towards Erzerúm, the territory of which we reached on -Kássim (St. Demetrius’ day) and passed the straight of Ghází-boghází. -The governor expecting the troops, was in his tent at Gumishlí Kunbed -(silver vault) where Sídí Ahmed, Ketgáj, and Bákí Páshá were received -with the greatest distinction, treated with a splendid repast and -invested with pelisses of honour. Here the Páshá and Sanjak Begs laid -with great pomp their presents before the governor. The season being -now too far advanced to think of the expedition against Eriván, we -remained in this place spending our days in pleasure. The Governor, my -gracious Lord, being a little angry with me on account of my having -accompanied the expedition without leave, Sídi Ahmed Páshá interceded -in my favour, saying, “If it is a fault that I took Evliyá with me -to the siege of Gonia, it is he that proclaimed first the Mohammedan -prayer on its walls; he is a traveller of the world, a good companion -of mankind, a Háfiz (who knows the Korán by heart) and a warrior in -the ways of God.” Having asked pardon for me in this gentle manner, -the Páshá said, “His duty was to collect troops and not to assist at -the siege of Gonia, I will not pardon this fault unless he finishes in -eight hours the recital of the Korán (Khatem sheríf).” I began with the -Bismillah and finished in somewhat more than nine hours, after which I -kissed the earth before my gracious Lord, and received from him a sable -pelisse, a thorough bred horse, two fine boys, and a sinecure; so that -I now spent all my time both day and night in pleasure. - - -_Moral Reflections._ - -The end of all joy is disappointment, and the end of every day is -bitter. There is no doubt about this. So at the end of this 1075th -year we received the news by a swift messenger despatched from -Constantinople, that Sultán Ibrahím had killed without reason the Grand -Vezír Sáleh Páshá, and had appointed in his place Tezkereji Ahmed -Páshá. Though this news greatly afflicted the Páshá yet he kept it -secret not to spoil the pleasure of the company, and transacted the -rest of his business at Erzerúm. Sáleh Páshá, who had been one of the -favorite slaves of the father of our Governor, had for this reason -given him the government of Erzerúm; but the present Grand Vezír, ever -since he had been the Tezkerejí of Kara Mustafa Páshá, had become his -mortal enemy. He kept however this secret to himself and continued to -feast in his tent with his guests, Sídí, Ketgáj, Bákí and Dilaver Páshá. - -(_Here follows the separate history of these four Páshás and of the -Governor, which we omit. In the chapter of Sídí Páshá it is mentioned -that playing at jeríd one day with Evliyá he broke four of his teeth._) - - -_Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of -Zílka’deh 1057 (1647)._ - -We left the town by the gate of Erzenján and halted first in the -plain called the circles of Bazár-bashí, where farewell presents -were lavished on us by all the Aghás and principal men of Erzerúm, -who both by day and night formed their court around the tent of the -Páshá. The Kiaya of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, accompanied -by an hundred and fifty Aghás, an hundred and seventy Kapijí-bashí, -seven hundred men, Sárija, and three hundred Segbán, arrived here with -the news of Sáleh Páshá having been killed. The next day a messenger -came from Constantinople with a Khattí-sheríf conferring on governor -Mohammed Páshá, our gracious Lord, the Governorship of Karss with the -obligation to take the field against the Persians by defending the -frontier. The Governor, our gracious Lord, said, “Be it now as it -may”, and without paying attention to the Khattí-sheríf continued his -way to Constantinople. The first station, three hours to the west of -Erzerúm, was the village of Kán, an Armenian village in the midst of -the plain. Five hours further westward, the village Ilija, possessing a -hot spring, covered with high cupolas by the munificence of the Princes -of the dynasty of Akche-koyúnlí. The basin is not paved with stones, -but only strewed with white sand. The water is of a moderate heat -and smells like that of other hot springs, but is more conducive to -health than the warm spring of Zia-ud-dín. From hence we advanced five -hours to the westward to the village of Khinnis, an Armenian village -of two hundred houses, and in five hours more came to the village of -Mamakhatún, a mussulman village of two hundred houses. This Lady was a -pious Lady of the Akche-Koyúnlí family, and lies buried here with her -children beneath a high cupola; there is a mosque, an imáret, and a -college. Advancing for five hours over valleys and hills we reached the -village of Ketúr on the territory of Erzerúm, where the Euphrates is -crossed by a bridge of fir-tree. The Páshá halted here for three days, -and sent me on a mission to Mirakhor Aghá, the inspector of the salt of -Kumákh. - - -_Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh._ - -The Castle of Kumákh was built by the Greek Emperors and then came -into the hands of the Akche-koyúnlí. When in the possession of Uzún -Hassan, the king of Azerbeiján, it was besieged by Timúr for seven -months, during which the besieged disdained to fire a single shot or -throw a single stone on the besiegers. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan -it was also besieged by Mohammed III., during three months without -success. Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, availed himself of a -good opportunity and conquered it. He then crossed from Trebisonde -with three hundred ships to Caffa and Crimea on the opposite shore with -the intention of wresting the sovereign power from the hands of his -father, Báyazíd II. assisted by the Tatars of the Crimea. The Father -and Son met near Hájí Oghlí-bazárí in the valley of Oghrásh, and Selím -being defeated left his son Súleimán, Governor of Trebisonde, and went -himself into Persia, where he visited the tombs of great Saints like -Imán Mússa and played at chess with the Sháh, who at this time had -taken possession of Kumákh. Selím then defeated his father at Chorlí, -who exiled to Demitoca died at Hássa. Selím I received at Yení-bághje -the obeisance of the inhabitants of Constantinople, and instantly -fixed the tails at Scutari as the signal of a Persian expedition. -The castle of Kumákh was conquered by Bíklí Mohammed Páshá. It is -one of the strongest fortresses of the Ottoman Empire, like those -of Diárbekr, Márdín, Ván, Sín Kara-hissár, Afiún Kara-hissár, Megú, -Eremnák, Merkáb, Hassan, Karak in Asia, and in Rúm Mengesha, Napoli, -Misistra, Rodos, &c. It is loftier than all these and is invisible till -noon, from clouds which pour frequent showers upon it. At the time of -the description of the country by Sultán Súleimán it was set down as -the seat of a Voivode, subordinate to Erzerúm. Three districts belong -to it; that of the town, of Gerjánis, and of Kúrúchaí, from which the -Judge gathers an annual revenue of three thousand piastres. The Castle -has a Dizdár and a garrison of five hundred men, an officer of the -Janissaries (Serdár), of the Sipahís (Kiayayerí), and a Nakíb; another -officer rules the village of Gomúr on the other side of the Euphrates, -which consists of seven hundred houses: this officer is the Inspector -of the salt, which is sweeter than the salt of Hají-begtásh. - -The inhabitants of Turkistán and Turcomania get all their salt from -Kumákh. A linen which is no where else to be found in such perfection, -is made here for tents. There is a proverb in praise of the linen of -Kúmákh, the sheep of Erzenján and the girls of Baiburd. The river -Komúr, which passes through the gardens of the village that bears its -name, comes from the mountains of Jerjánish and joins the Euphrates -near the convent of Melek Ghází Effendí. Near, and opposite to it, is -Mobarek, an armenian village, the khass of the garrison of Erzerúm. -The water, which distils in the caverns of the mountain freezes in -the summer time and in the winter is as warm as a hot spring. The -inhabitants keep in these caverns their cheese called Katik-peinirí. In -coming hither from Erzerúm you cross the Euphrates over a large single -arched bridge, ascend a height of five hundred paces and pass along the -rocky tract called Kebán. There towering rocks are on the right, as -you ascend the castle and on the left are deep precipices. The small -river Ain Manzar here flows into the Euphrates. This river issues from -Mount Manzar, unites with the Sáterdereh, a torrent which supplies -water to the gardens of the town and joins the Euphrates below the -rocks of Kepán. The water is clear and fresh. Near it is a rock called -Alí’s rock, where people believe they are cured of pains in the limbs, -because Alí is said to have rested here his weary limbs; it is a stone -like a magnet, and the inhabitants call it Kullikia; above is the -suburb of the Infidels. The houses, with and without gardens, are all -covered with earth. The subjects are all Armenians; there are three -hundred shops, but no bezestán of stone, two kháns, two baths, and a -great mosque: the bath near it is called Chorbájí-hamám. The suburb has -no fortification (Robát) round it, but above it is a great castle. - - -_Description of the Castle of Kumákh._ - -This castle is a pentagon of stone situate on a chalk cliff; it may -be compared to the castle of Sín-hissár on the frontiers of Erzerúm. -On the opposite side of the Euphrates is a height by which it is -commanded, but the distance is too great to make it of consequence. -It has three strong gates one behind the other; on the right and left -of the first gate are two brass guns, well worthy to be seen, of -such dimensions that a cobbler might very well work in them without -complaining of the narrowness of the place. They are of the time of -Sultán Súleimán; their length twenty-seven spans and their balls of -three quintals weight. The greatest wonder is how they succeeded in -bringing such large guns to so high a place. At the innermost or third -gate is suspended the mace of a Pehliván, and a bow of Alí. The number -of the houses great and small is six hundred, but they want gardens and -water. Five magazines have been filled with rice and millet ever since -the time of Sultán Selím I., which seem as though they had been laid -up but to-day. There are eleven mosques; the Beg’s is a large mosque -with a minareh of stone; though this castle is built on a rock, yet -the houses are paved with flat stones. On the tower called the Martyrs -towards the north are thirty-two large and small guns; from the gate -of the Martyrs, a water-way cut in the rock leads down to the foot of -it, by which they fetch the water at the time of a siege. There are -three cisterns here near one another, the first is full of good water, -the second smells of saltpetre and the third is very salt. Though this -town is a town of Turkistán, situated on the territory of Erzerúm, yet -its inhabitants are goodnatured, sound people. The linen for tents, the -white salt and the cheese called Katik-peinirí, which is better and -sweeter than that of Mytilene and of Koreisha at Damascus, are famous -all over Asia. The quails, which in summer come in great numbers, the -inhabitants preserve in vinegar for the winter. - -Near the magazines are the pilgrimage of Kend Effendí and at the head -of the bridge, that of Melek Ghazí. As this town is not situated on -the great road, caraváns do not pass here. The Euphrates on the east -comes from the mountains of Rúmlí Sultán and flows round the rock -towards the west to the Izúlí Kurds. From the Alps of a thousand lakes -(Bíngol) comes the Murad river, which joins the Euphrates. Whoever -travels from Malatia, Kharpút, Ekín, Pálava, or Diárbekr can only cross -it in a boat. I viewed this town for three whole days, collected what -was due by the Voivode to the Páshá, and received from him an hundred -piastres as a present of arrival (Kúdúmie). I returned in five days to -Kumákh and set out next day northward along the Euphrates to Shúrím, -which has two hundred houses; ten hours further, to the station of -Jebjeh-khání; then leaving the Euphrates to the right, to the village -of Jemen, an Armenian village on the plain of Erzenján; from whence we -arrived at Erzenján. - - -_Description of the Castle of Erzenján._ - -This castle belongs to Erzerúm and not to Azerbeiján. There are -four towns, which bear the name of Erzen, viz: Erzen in Mesopotamia -(Jezíre), Erzen Akhlát, Erzenrúm commonly called Erzerúm, and Erzenján. -It is a delightful spot, the possession of which occasioned many -wars, till in the year 855 Sultán Bayazíd I. received it from its -prince, Záhir-ud-dín, who, the very same day he heard of the conquest -of Amasia, repaired to this town and delivered to Sultán Bayazíd the -keys. Bayazíd out of generosity returned the keys to Záhir-ud-dín -on condition that Khutbeh be performed, and the coinage struck in -his name. Záhir-ud-dín died three years afterwards and the town was -taken possession of by Kara Yússúf, the Prince of the dynasty of -Kara-koyúnlí, who held it for seven years, until Timúr overrun Asia. -Kara Yússúf fled from his residence and sought shelter at the throne -of Sultán Bayazíd, together with Ahmed Jelair, the Commander of -Baghdád. Timúr required Bayazíd to deliver them up to him, but Bayazíd -refused, and this refusal was the chief cause of the war between them. -Kara Yússúf and Jelair afterwards fled into Egypt to Sultán Berkúk. -Erzenján fell into the hands of Uzún Hassan, who being already Prince -of Azerbeiján became also Prince of Erzenján. His mint is still extant -near the convent of the Mevlevís. After the defeat and death of -Bayazíd, the Empire was disputed by the Princes Issa, Mússa, Súleimán -and Mohammed, the latter obtained it and became absolute Lord, but was -unable to conquer Erzenján, which remained in the hands of Uzún Hassan -until the time of Mohammed II., who took possession of it after the -defeat of Uzún Hassan on the plain of Terján. He repaired the castle of -Sultán Záhir-ud-dín and garrisoned it with Ottoman troops. In the reign -of Bayazíd II., when Sultán Selím was governor of Trebisonde, Sháh -Ismail took possession of Azerbeijan, which returned to its first Lord -after the battle of Chaldirán in the year 921 (1515); Erzenján was then -made a part of the revenues of the Páshá of Erzerúm. Its magistrates -are a Súbashi and a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, who may -collect annually six purses. The other officers are the Muftí, Nakíb, -Serdár, Kiayayerí, a Mohtessib (judge of the market) and a Shehr-naibí -(inspector of the town.) - -The castle is situated in a delightful plain in the midst of woods, its -gates and walls are very low and its fortifications very old. At the -time of the rebellion of Abaza at Erzerúm, the ditch was cleared and -the walls repaired, but Abaza Páshá became nevertheless master of it. -It has an iron gate, and the communication from the fortress to the -suburb is by a bridge; in the castle are three hundred houses with and -without gardens, a mosque, a khán and a bath. - -The great suburb consists of eighteen hundred houses with and without -gardens, all covered with neat terraces and but few of them having -upper stories; seventy-six mosques great and small without cupolas, and -seven convents, the most renowned of which is that of the Mevlevís; -Chelebí Effendí, the son of the great Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín, is buried -here. This convent built in the olden style is situated in the midst -of a delightful Persian garden, the nightingales of which with their -delicious songs feed the brains of the poor Dervishes, and intoxicate -them with divine love, while they themselves are singing mystic hymns -in the tunes of love. Round the music-room (Ima’á-kháneh) are the cells -of the Dervishes, and the convent is endowed with a good kitchen and -cellar (Kílár). They preserve here Jelál-ud-dín’s habit, a Korán, and a -Mesneví written by his own hand. The second convent is that of Chádirjí -Sheikh Abd-ul-kádir Gíláni. There are various excellent baths, eleven -great kháns, forty abecedarian schools, no houses for reading the Korán -(Dár-ul-kirayet), tradition (Dár-ul-hadíth) nor for dining the poor -(Dár-ul-ita’ám), but there are a great number of students (Talebe); -and lectures are read in all the mosques. Amongst the inhabitants are -found many clever, goodnatured, learned, pious, well-bred men, who wear -short dresses, but no silk with the exception of the soldiers, who -dress in cloth of various colours and also in silk. The youth of both -sexes are pretty, and the ladies are chaste as Adúyeh Rábia, and wear -when walking boots and a pointed cap (Arakjín); they are prohibited -from walking in the market-place, which contains six hundred houses. -Precious articles are kept in a small bezestán. From hence to Erzerúm -situated beyond the mountains is two journies. The climate of Erzerúm -is rough and very cold, while that of Erzenján on the contrary is mild, -and favourable to roses and flowers. Snow falls sometimes, but remains -no longer than three days. Its gardens are productive of the finest -flowers and the sweetest fruits. - - -_Praise of the Eatables and Beverages._ - -Seventy sorts of pears are produced here; and though the season of -winter was far advanced at the time of our stay here, yet we now saw -seventeen various sorts of pears offered as presents to the Páshá, with -raisins and apricots; its mulberries both white and black are much -renowned and when dried are exported to all countries. The sherbet of -mulberries seasoned with different spices gives new life to the soul. -Erzerúm is provided with fruits from this town, from whence they are -transported in two days. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -The convent of Khizr, a convent of Mevlevís; the convent of Sheikk -Khaled Efendí; and the tomb of Himmet Páshá, one of the vezirs of -Sultán Selím, who was killed on his way to Chaldirán. - -I remained here for three days to collect the sums due from the -Inspectors of salt and the Súbáshí of Kúrúchaí. Whilst the inhabitants -were giving feasts to the Páshá news arrived of the rebellion of Várvár -Páshá, with a letter to the following intent: “My son! Hezárpara Ahmed -Páshá the Vezír of Ibrahím has killed eleven Vezirs and deprived me -of the Governorship of Sívás, because I did not send to the Sultán -the wife of Ipshír Páshá, the daughter of the Prince of Georgia, the -Lady Perikhán. Three Kapijí-bashí came with orders to take my head, -but I happily escaped from them. I have now received letters from all -the great and principal men at Constantinople, and from the officers -of the seven military corps, summoning me to come with my troops to -Scutarí, and to demand there the heads of the Vezir, of Jenjí Khoja, -Begtásh Aghá, Chelebí Kiaya, Mossleh-ud-dín Aghá and Kara Chaúsh. I am -now united with three Vezirs, seven Begler-begs and eleven Sanjak-begs -ready to march against Constantinople. If thou wishest to save thy head -from Ahmed Páshá (the grand Vezir), I invite thee to join us at Tokát, -from whence we shall march our united forces to Constantinople to try -our fortune.” This letter having been received at Erzenján a council -was held, and the levies (levend) having determined to follow the -auspices of the Páshá, the resolution was taken to join the party of -the rebels, and a Fátihah was said to that intention. Alaja Atlí Hassan -Aghá was sent on with a foraging party to be quarter-master general, -and letters were sent to Várvár Páshá with the declaration upon oath to -join him. I, poor Evliyá, was quite perplexed and out of my wits, I had -so many things and goods, which I knew not how to dispose of. We were -in the midst of winter, and the tradition of the prophet, “a journey -is a portion of hell, be it but a farsang’s length,” received its full -application. I did not know where to leave my things in safety; and -only with my horse and sword accompany the Páshá, my gracious Lord, as -a rebel. - -We first moved from Erzenján to the north and halted after seven hours -at Báshkhán; five hours further, to the village Erzensí, an Armenian -village, six hours further to the village of Sheikh Sinán, near -which at Bárúgúnde is the tomb of Behlúl of Samarkand, a convent of -bareheaded and barefooted Begtáshís; and three hours further we crossed -the bridge of the Shepherds near Hassan Kala’assí. Shah Kúrúdúmán of -the Chobán family is buried in the same place with Behlúl of Samarkand. -It is said, that the tomb being opened, King Chobán Kúrúdúmán with all -his family was burnt by a fire that issued out by talismanic virtue. -He was a Prince of great enterprise, built the bridge of Tiflís and -near Melázjerd the bridge with golden rings over the Araxes. Adjoining -the bridge is a magnificent caravánseraï, the windows of which look -on the river, so that travellers lodging there have the pleasure of -fishing out of their windows. I have sometimes passed this bridge on -my way to and from Eriván. This time I visited the builder’s tomb and -said the Súra yass, for his soul. We left Bárúgúnde and came after a -march of eight hours to the north to Ezendeler, a cultivated village in -the district of Terján, and after four hours more to the north to the -station of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, where a feast for ten days was ordained. -Here I took leave of the Páshá and proceeded with the men of Ahmed Aghá -to Shín Kara Hissár. I first travelled towards the east through woods -and deserts along the valley of Kara hissár, and villages belonging to -it, and reached the town itself after a nine hours march. - - -_Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár._ - -There are in the Ottoman Empire various castles, which bear the name of -Kara-hissár, the most renowned of which is that before us. The others -are Kara-hissár called Afiún (Apamea), Develí Kora-hissár, Adalia -Kara-hissárí, and Ván Kara-hissárí. The two first are superior to the -others. Shábín Kara-hissár is so called because a mine of alum (Sháb) -was found in its mountains; the stones of the castle being black, it -is also called Shabín from Shab (night, dark coloured). It was built -by the Armenian kings, fell into the power of the Greek Princes of -Trebisonde, and then into that of Záhir-ud-dín, the Prince of Erzenján, -who conquered it on a dark night, which is another reason given for -its being called Shabín. It passed into the power of Uzún Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján and was taken from him by Mohammed II. In the -time of Sultán Selím I. it was described as a sanjak belonging to the -government of Erzerúm. Its khass is thirteen thousand aspers; and -there are thirty-six ziámets and nine hundred and forty timárs, which -furnish, together with the men belonging to the Beg, two thousand -men. The revenue of the Páshá amounts annually to forty purses. It has -sometimes been given as a supplementary allowance (Arpalik) to Páshás -of three tails. It was so given to Ghází Sefer Páshá, the vezir of -Akhiska, in addition to Akhiska. His administrator (Motessellem) was -Dervish Aghá, a Georgian and powerful commander. He once sent me on -service to the valleys of Mendvál and Túsdereh by which I gained a -horse, a sword, two red mules, and a Georgian boy; presented to me by -himself. The judge is appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers and -may annually make four thousand piastres from the different districts. -There is a Muftí, a Nakíb, a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Subashí, Mohtessib, a -Dizdár and an hundred and fifty men invested with timárs. - -The castle of Shabín Kara-hissár is of a heptagon form and stands on a -high mountain, appearing like a man of war dismantled and dismasted. -It is the work of an architect who was a second Ferhád. It is one of -the twelve fortresses in the Ottoman Empire, which, not being commanded -by the neighbouring heights, seem to have been built by the hand of -Omnipotence. The height of the walls on all the seven sides is seventy -cubits, with seventy bulwarks and seven hundred battlements. The whole -circumference is three thousand six hundred paces; there is no ditch, -it being surrounded by precipices. It has three strong gates where -the garrison keep watch day and night, because the inhabitants of the -villages along the shores of the Black sea send all their best goods -into the castle to protect them from the inroads of the Cossacks; there -are seventy houses with terraces, but they suffer from want of water, -which is obliged to be brought upon asses from the river below; in case -of siege they use the water kept in cisterns. The magazines are full -of millet and rice, and have been for more than a century. As it is -not a frontier fortress the artillery is neither heavy nor numerous. -A small mosque bearing the name of Sultán Mohammed II., a khán, bath -and market are in the lower town or suburb. This suburb, with gardens -around it, consists of sixteen hundred terraced houses, the windows of -which look towards the north; the courtyards are spacious. There are -forty-two mosques, none of which are covered with lead, like those of -the Sultáns at Constantinople; the one within the market place near -the court of justice is much frequented: three convents, two baths, -four kháns, seven schools for boys and an hundred and fifty shops; -as this place does not lie on the great road, but on one side of it, -its establishments are not very elegant. Tapán Ahmed Aghá began a new -bezestán with eighty shops on both sides of the main street; it is -sheltered by a roof against rain and foul weather, and protected by two -gates on each side against thieves and bad men. Watchmen keep guard -every night because many precious things are deposited there. - - -_Description of a Lion._ - -Upon the gate leading to the outer town a lion, stuffed with cotton, -is to be seen, it has oranges in the place of eyes, yawning like a -seven-headed dragon, with a piece of red felt instead of a tongue, and -teeth as sharp as Turcoman daggers or Arab lances. It measures from -its nose to its tail forty-five spans. This mountain lion continued -his havoc on the cattle of the neighbouring country for seven years, -when it was killed by a brave man, and placed by the order of Ahmed -Tapán upon the gate of his new built bezestán. It is a terrific beast, -with feet resembling columns; it is not so beautiful as the lions -of Baghdád, Helle, Jevazer and Kavarna, with their yellow coloured -hair of a span’s length, like Angora-goats. Lions being generally the -inhabitants of deserts, this one of the mountains deserves so much -the more to be noticed. The mountains of this part, being all covered -with thick forests, abound with leopards, lynxes, wild sheep, martens, -wolves, foxes and jackals, and men are scarcely able to fetch wood from -the mountains because they are so full of ferocious animals. A party of -Cossacks, who had once pushed their inroads as far as these mountains, -became the prey of wild beasts; intending to devour men’s goods they -were themselves devoured, and ever since the town has enjoyed perfect -security from the roving Cossacks, who availed themselves of the -vicinity of the Black Sea. - -In this town I saw another marvellous thing, it was a boy standing -before a barber’s shop with his father who begged alms; the boy was -about eight or nine years of age with a stupendous head, like the -heads of the people of A’ad and Themúd, like the head of Salsál (?) -at Akgermán or like pumpkins of Adana and cabbages of Ván, on a neck -no thicker than an arm, which not being capable of bearing such an -enormous weight the head was supported by a wooden fork, which was -fixed in the ground, and on it the weight of the head rested. This -monstrous head, held up in this way before a barber’s shop, laughed in -the faces of all who passed by. It had no turban but a kind of coarse -saddle-cloth wrapped round it, the brows were of two fingers breadth -extending to the ears, which were of human form, but of immense size, -as were also the eyes, the lashes of which resembled arrows; the nose -was somewhat of the shape of a Melonyena (Bádinján) of Morea, and -when breathing, the nostrils were like those of a snorting horse; the -mouth opened to such an astonishing width, that he was able to swallow -at once a small water melon; of his teeth two were curved outside of -the mouth towards the upper, and two downwards to the under lip; the -lips were ruby-coloured but like the lips of a camel; the spittle was -continually running out of his mouth. The physiognomy was that of a -Kalmúk, and the hair crisped like that of black Arabs. The arms and -breasts were those of a boy’s of his years, the fingers very thin -and the feet like sticks. This was a case to apply the verse of the -Koran to: “God does what he wills and orders what he likes.” I asked -the father whether the mother of this monstrous child was still alive, -he said “Yes, and that she was actually again with child.” I said, -“Bandage her body tightly, that she may miscarry, for if the head of -the child should grow to the size of its brother’s, its entrance into -the world might cause an inconvenient enlargement.” The father said, -“You are joking, but I assure you most earnestly, that when the mother -of this boy laid in with him, the birth was so easy that she was aware -of nothing at all and thanked God for such an easy deliverance.” I, -poor Evliyá, said, “But never has there been created a creature with -such a head, such a face and such teeth; do you believe it to be the -real produce of your loins?” The man answered, “Having once gone to -the mountain with my wife to cut wood, we there enjoyed a shepherd’s -hour in most pleasant conversation. I then left her reposing under -a tree, and went on my business, when I suddenly heard her cries, -and saw her running towards me pursued by a naked giant, tall as the -fir-trees. When she got home she fell sick, and her figure increased -in size daily, until at the end of a year’s time she was delivered of -this boy, whose head grows bigger and bigger every day.” I said, “If it -please God, that it should still grow to a larger size, you must come -to Constantinople, where if shown to the Vezirs and great men of the -Empire he may easily gain two thousand piastres in a year.” - - -_Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum._ - -This is a reddish alum produced in the mountains of this town, which -is therefore called Shábín Kara-hissár; it is much sought after by the -goldsmiths of all countries. The Inspectorship is let at seven hundred -thousand aspers a year. It breaks up into pentagon and sexagon stones -shaped like the seal of Solomon; the goldsmiths use it to brighten the -silver, and the surgeons for plasters. It has many excellent qualities. -The temperature of this town being mild the inhabitants are fair. Its -quinces and a kind of small bread are famous. We remained here three -days as guests in the palace of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, purchased coffee, -horse-shoes and some other necessary things and then returned. - -On our journey we passed a great river, which flows into the Kerkúk, -and whose waters collect from the vallies of Mánd, Vál, and Kúrd-dereh. -After six hours march to the west we reached the village of Yakúb-aghá -and further on, along the shores of the Kerkúk, through steep and stony -ways and the tremendous pass of Bogház-kessen, to where the river, -which flows through Amasia, enters the Kerkúk, and falls into the sea -at Ener. Having passed it we continued our way for eight hours over -hills and valleys and arrived at the Castle of Hájí Murád, built by -Uzún Hassan’s vezír. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan it surrendered -its keys without contest to Mahmúd Páshá, the vezír of Sultán Mohammed -II. It is a high and steep castle like that of Kavilí-hissár, of a -thousand paces in circumference and without a ditch, which from its -situation on a hill would be superfluous. In the castle are seventy -small houses, but no market, khán, bath, college or imáret. There are a -great number of nut-trees. On the border of the Kerkúk, which flows at -the foot of the castle in a deep valley is a khán. The Súbashí resident -here is subordinate to Shábín Kara-hissár. I here informed the Páshá -of the strength of Shábín Kara-hissár, at which he was surprised. From -hence we ascended a high mountain to the north and came in six hours -to the village of Chaúdár; in seven more to Emírler, a village in the -territory of Shábín; in five more to an Armenian village; in four more -to the west to the village of Kílárjí Veliaga, on the border of a -high mountain, consisting of two hundred houses, in the jurisdiction -of Iskefser, in five more to the station of Básh-chiflik also in the -jurisdiction of Iskefser on the frontier of Erzerúm and Sívás, which -has already been mentioned on our road to Erzerúm. Further to the west -is the castle of Ník-hissár (good castle) and five hours further the -village of Kazán-kia in the province of Sívás, in the jurisdiction of -Ník-hissár. Still passing to the west by Bogház-kessen we came through -thick woods to the village of Kúmánova; in two hours more to the great -village Sontissa, on the frontier of Nígissár, with three hundred -houses, a mosque, and bath; and in five hours more to Zavádí-tekiessí, -of two hundred houses, on a high mountain on the frontier of Ládík; a -great foundation, being a great convent at the tomb of a great saint. -Its Dervishes are almost all of the Prophet’s family. I here performed -with the Páshá the prayer of I’idí-asha (Kurbán-bairám) and the Sheikh -of the convent gave us a repast. The tails having been sent on, we -passed the next morning in five hours the pass of Setlí-púlí, and -arrived at the village of Hamíd, which has a mosque and gardens; and in -five hours more to the west, at Ládík. - - -_Description of the Castle of Ládík._ - -This castle was built by one Havík one of the Greek Princes of Amasia. -Melek Ghází of the Dánishmend family, who came from Mahán with the -Seljúk family, conquered both Ník-hissár and Ládík in the same year. -There are three Ládíks in the Ottoman Empire, viz: that of Konia now -quite ruined by rebellions, that of Korládík in the province of Ván and -the third, Ládík of Amasia. After the conquest of the town by Bayazíd -I., Ládík surrendered its keys to Timúr-tásh Páshá, who accepted them -with the good wish that the inhabitants might live long. The blessing -of this wish is still evident in the long and prosperous lives of the -inhabitants. Bayazíd II., when governor of Amasia, passed six months -of the year in this place and made a delightful garden, which is kept -in order by a Master (Ustá) and forty Bostánjís, Kúrújí and Tablakjí. -It is a town free from all duties and gifts, because it is the wakf of -Bulbul Khatún the mother of Ahmed I. The governor of Sívás has no right -to interfere by his officers. The judge has the rank and pay of three -hundred aspers, but may collect in a fair way six purses annually from -the districts. There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Naíb and -Mohtessib. The Castle is an old pile of building, which is now without -a commander or garrison; the Bostánjís run over the woods and heaths -and watch the town, which has seventeen quarters; forty-seven Mihrábs, -six of which are jamís and three of them Imperial ones; three thousand -and twenty houses covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; -seven convents, the most remarkable of which is that of Seid Ahmed -Kebír; two baths; seven kháns; a large caravánseraï, built by Gházi -Davúd Páshá; four hundred shops, and a bezestán; forty-one palaces -of Vezírs and great men, all having baths; no particular college, -but lectures are given in all the mosques; eighteen schools for boys -and two dining establishments. The Noblemen wear sable pelisses, the -merchants ferráje and kontosh of cloth, and the women velvet trowsers, -boots, ferráje of cloth, white veils and pointed caps; they are no -where to be seen but in the bath and in the houses where they pay -visits. They are most modest, lovely creatures, who entangle lovers -with sweet words and gracious behaviour. - -Its eatables are large pears better than those of Malatia, Nissú, Khúí -and Merend; delicious cherries, a kind of bread called Memejik-ekmek -which is the first bread in the world after the Súmún of Sapánja: there -are no raisins, melons, water-melons, figs, &c. The white honey called -Tághbálí is not equalled either by that of Creta, Adana or Sicily. Its -fine cotton linen excels the linen of Mossúl and Lekefúr in Persia. - - -_The Walks of Ládík._ - -The head fountain of the water Bállí-kiasú, which flows through the -town, is a pleasant walk on the Kiblah side. Another famous walk on -the east side is called Frenk-gozí, the Frank’s eye; Hossein Páshá -built a koshk by the splendid spring which arises here; the water is -so cold that people cannot take out of it three stones consecutively. -The rivulets formed by those two sources of Bállí and Frenk-gozí flow -through the town supplying water to the palaces, kháns, mosques, -gardens, and mills, and terminate in the lake of Ládík. Another walk -is that called Akbínár, a fountain of cold water, which does not flow -through the town, but outside. All these sources rise in the high -mountains to the north of the town and find their way into the lake -of Ládík. On the west of Ládík, a pleasure-place called the monastery, -a delightful spot with a water called Rámja, which is sweeter than the -water of Ma’avia. These united sources divide below the castle into -two branches, one of which waters the gardens of Kowa-mahallessí below -the pilgrimage of Khizrlik, and the other passes by the pilgrimage of -Bálídedeh, where the principal men come to meet the pilgrims returning -from Mecca. - - -_The warm laths of Ládík._ - -A hot spring is situated one hour and a half on the west of Ládík on -a high hill in a village, called Khalliz, below which it flows as -a small rivulet, turns some mills, and falls into the Kizil Irmák; -being situated behind the mountains of Ládík it cannot fall into the -lake. The warm bath of Khalliz is much renowned. In the cherry season -this place is visited by thousands of people, who here renovate their -health by God’s command. An outlet from this hot bath flows into the -river Khalliz which empties itself into the Kizil Irmák. Another warm -bath (Ilije, Turkish; Humma, Arabic; Germáb, Persian;) is on the -west side of Ládík in the jurisdiction of Kaúza. Kaúza is in this -country the name of a hot bath, which in Rúmelí is called Kainarje; -in Tartary, Ilissí; in Mogolastán, Kerenda; and Frangistán, Bagno. It -is a double bath so that men and women have their separate bathing -places. The basin in the men’s apartment is ten feet square and is such -a delightful sight that it might restore dead men to life. The water -rushes forth from four lions’ mouths, which are at the four corners. -The water is not very warm, but in addition to this great basin there -is a small one the water of which is so extremely hot, that no man -can bear it. On the four sides of this great basin under vaults are -eight bathing troughs, where thousands of men are cured in the cherry -season. In the same bath is a cold, limpid spring, called the maiden’s -eye (Kiz-gozí), which gives fresh life to those who drink of it. The -distance between this spring, cold as ice, and the hot spring is but a -yard. - - -_Description of the Lake of Ládík._ - -This is a large lake to the east of Ládík, which would take a day -to go round; eleven different sorts of fish are found in it, the -description of which would be too long to give. Twenty-six springs and -rivulets flow into this lake on its four sides, from the districts of -Zedaí, Súnssa, Kaúza and Zeitúm; it has no outlet. On its border is -Bogházi-koí, a pleasant village, and the village of Otúz, renowned -for its kaimak (cream), which is no where better; it can be cut like -cheese and is elastic as gum. If any Kaimak can be compared with it, -it is that of Bíngol (thousand lakes). Amasia lies eight hours to the -south of Ládík, and to the eastward is Ník-hissár; the jurisdiction of -Kavákelí is at a journey’s distance. To the west is the town of Koprí -and the jurisdiction of Zeitúm at a journey’s distance. North to it is -the harbour of Samsún and further on Sinope. - - -_Pilgrimages of Ládík._ - -Sheikh Seid Ahmed Kebír, buried in his own convent, was the disciple -of Sheikh Ekber who is also buried here in the old mosque, built by -himself in the year 952 (1545); he was one of the Sheiks of Sultán -Orkhán. Beneath the castle Sheikh Ya Wúdúd is buried, and Báli-dedeh at -the meeting place of the caravan of Mecca. Ghází Tayár Mustafa Páshá is -also buried here beneath a lead covered cupola. - -I remained at this place three days with my gracious Lord, the Páshá, -to whom great feasts were given, and then marched five hours to the -west to the village of Shabín-ághá, of two hundred houses, where Kássim -Aghá gave a grand feast; five hours further on we reached the village -of Korkoí, of three hundred houses, a mosque and gardens. The next day, -when the tails were about to be carried forward, two Chaúshes arrived -as messengers from Constantinople to Diárbekr, whom the Páshá arrested. -On their being searched nothing was found but a Khattí-sheríf to the -Páshá of Baghdád, Sáleh Páshá, removing him from his government and -recalling him to Constantinople in order that he might be made Kápúdán -Páshá. The same day the Páshá despatched his messenger Sáleh to Murteza -Páshá, the brother of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, to acquaint -him that couriers from the Porte were on the way with an invitation to -Constantinople to which he should pay no attention, but beware of the -snare laid for him, and join instead the party of Várvár Alí Páshá, who -was marching to Constantinople. The Courier Sáleh received an hundred -ducats to join Murteza Páshá with all speed; and on the fourth day the -Khassekí and Chaúsh, who were the bearers of the Imperial rescript, -were set at liberty and continued their route to Baghdád. The Páshá -remained six days at Korkoí and moved on the seventh, when after five -hours march we reached the old town of Merzifún. - - -_Description of Merzifún._ - -It was built by the Dánishmend family and conquered by Bayazíd I. It -is now a castle in good condition and useful against rebels, in the -sanjak of Amasia, belonging to Sivás, and is guarded by watchmen. The -town is a wakf of Saint Pírdedeh and is commanded by the Kizlar Aghá. -The judge, appointed with three hundred aspers, may annually collect -from the different districts six purses. As it is an inland castle it -has neither commander nor garrison. Its public officers are a Muftí, -Nakíb, Serdár, Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb. We were here the guests -of Diláwer Aghá, the Silihdár of Tabání Mohammed Páshá, who treated -the Páshá and fourteen hundred men of his suite for ten days with -the greatest hospitality: so that not even a bag for the horses nor -a cup of coffee were provided for by the Páshás people. The officers -were lodged in the town by billet (Yáfteh) and lived with their hosts -in perfect harmony like fathers and sons; four thousand men of the -troops were provided with lodgings in the neighbouring villages, the -inhabitants of which, though Turks, are of a gentle and mild temper, -and give freely of what they have. Every necessary for sustaining life -is here found in abundance. The town is situated on the border of Mount -Deshán and contains four thousand houses covered with brick, forty four -quarters and seventy mosques, the oldest of which is that of Murad II., -in the market-place; it is in the olden style with one mináreh, and is -much visited. - -The colleges are, that of Murad II., where lectures are held also on -tradition, seventy schools for boys, and two dining rooms, one of which -is at the convent of Pírdedeh. At an hour’s distance from the town -is the Convent of Akásha, and in the towns are those of Abdul Kádir -Jílání, and one of Khalvetís; the Kháns are in the market. On the left -corner of the gate of the old khán is suspended the mace of a Pehliván. - - -_Description of the Baths._ - -The old bath, divided for men and women, was built by Mohammed I., and -has more than seventy troughs or basins. Round it dwell the felt and -safian makers, who tan blue, yellow and red safian. The walls of the -bath are all lined with chalk mixed with musk and amber, the odour of -which pervades the whole building and renders it so dry that neither on -the walls nor on the windows does a drop of moisture collect. Being an -old building, however, it is not light, but rather dark. The water is -very warm and limpid. - - -_Praise of Pírdedeh._ - -When Murad II., the father of Mohammed II., was building a mosque -and college here, the enemies of Pírdedeh calumniated him by saying, -that he accompanied the women into the bath and foretold to them -hidden things, which are forbidden in the Korán, such as whether -they would lie in with a boy or girl. Murad II., angry at such -scandalous behaviour, took his sword with the intention of performing a -meritorious action by killing the accused. When he came to the bath and -saw Pírdedeh walking about with an apron round his loins, he upbraided -him for mingling with the women in the bath and rubbing them instead of -letting it be done by the waiting women. Pírdedeh said, “My Prince, -I do such service only to women who are pregnant with great Doctors -and learned men, and therefore enter not the bath in the common way.” -Thus saying, he entered through the stone wall which opened for him, -and the place is yet shown where he passed through before the eyes of -the Sultán. The Sultán then said, “I came hither Dedeh to kill you -with this sword in a legal way.” “Such is not the act intended for you -sword,” replied the Saint; “your sword is destined to conquer Smyrna, -which Timúr was unable to subdue; but which has fallen into the hands -of the Greeks. Go, therefore, and conquer Smyrna and eat this bread.” -On saying this, he took up two pieces of marble lying before the bath, -kneaded them like dough and presented them bread, one to Murad II., -and the other to his son Mohammed II., foretelling the conquest of -Smyrna to the first and that of Constantinople to the second. This -prediction being fulfilled, twenty-six years afterwards Mohammed gave -to his convent an endowment of three hundred and sixty-six villages, -so that the whole town of Merzifún belongs to this foundation. Every -year a Mutevellí (administrator) from the Kizlar Aghá, who is the -Názir (inspector) accompanied by three hundred horsemen, comes to -take possession of the village and distribute its revenues among the -dervishes and other poor men. The two pieces of white marble bread are -actually shown fixed into the wall, where the Saint passed through it. -This bath is a place for miraculous cures, and is the counterpart of -the bath built by Avicenna. - -The houses of the town, adorned with Sháhneshíns (projecting windows) -all look towards the kiblah. Its inhabitants are sound and healthy -on account of the prevalence of easterly winds. In the summer the -inhabitants repair to Mount Deshán for summer lodgings (Yaila). These -alps were given of old, when the Dánishmend family came from Mohán in -Khorassán, to the sons of Deshán and are now in possession of one of -their descendants, who receives a duty for the pasture of many hundred -thousand head of cattle. Some hundred rills and rivulets, flowing down -from these heights, water all the fields and gardens of the town. The -nature of the soil is such, that however copiously it may rain, the -fields are not productive unless watered by the rills of Deshán; but -then they become so fertile that the corn returns an hundred fold; for -one kíle at least eighty. These rills are under the inspection of a -particular Aghá, who regulates the distribution of them, for if such a -magistrate were not appointed, the inhabitants of Merzifún would kill -each other for the sake of the water. A part of the rills and sources -of Mount Deshán flow in the direction of Koprí and water its fields and -gardens; another into the district of Kaúza in the valley of Ládík; -and another still to the northward to the valley of Osmánjik. The town -of Merzifún stands on a hilly site backed by Mount Deshán. Amasia is -fifteen hours on the kiblah-side of this town, Ládík twelve, Osmánjik -sixteen, Gumish ten, and Kerkerán eight. On the northern border of -Mount Deshán stands the castle of Koja Kala’assí, looking upon the town -of Koprí. If you march from Merzifún along Mount Deshán for five hours -to the northward you arrive at Koprí, and in three journeys further at -Samssún, which is the harbour of Merzifún, it being nearer to it than -Sinope. - - -_Products._ - -Must, pure as that of Aintáb, sweet raisins, and the white bread of -Pírdedeh; six hundred shops almost all occupied by dyers, who dye a -peculiar blue even finer than the Persians. Its cotton stuffs are -exported in great quantities to Crimea and exchanged for prisoners; -the ferrájes and dresses of the inhabitants of Crimea are made of the -stuffs of Merzifún. Its spun cotton, shirts, blankets, cushions and -other printed articles are also in good estimation. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún._ - -The first of all the Saints of this place is Sheikh Pírdedeh, who came -with Hají Begtásh from Khorassán by permission of Koja Yessúí. He -dwelled outside of Merzifún to the north on a hill, and spent his days -in the baths as a Santon from the time of Orkhán to that of Mohammed -II. His convent which is a larger building than even that of Koyún-bábá -at Osmánjik, is provided with a kitchen and cellar (Kílár) and affords -every night lodgings and food to two or three hundred travellers; two -hundred dervishes of the order Begtáshí, barefoot and bareheaded, serve -their guests who visit the tomb of the Saint, say a Yass in honor of -the deceased and perfume their brains with the sweet odour of musk, -which exhales from his tomb. So great a number of candlesticks, lamps, -candelabra, vases for rose water and censers are not even to be seen -at Imán Riza. His habit, carpet, banner, drum, crown, mace, sling and -strap, the treasure of these dervishes, are preserved in boxes, and -many thousand travellers both on land and sea have here suspended their -slings and maces in eternal remembrance. I, poor Evliya, being a great -friend of Dervishes, according to the Prophet’s tradition: “Poverty is -my glory!” put with their permission the crown of Pírdedeh, which is a -Turkish cap of felt, on my head; the whole convent meanwhile resounding -with the cries of Allah and pious prayers. The building is entirely -covered with lead. The second pilgrimage is that of Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím -Ben Emír Merzifúní, who was the disciple of Zein-ud-dín Háfí at -Brússa and composed the work, Wassayaí Kudsie (Mystic Admonitions). -He accepted a living of eight aspers a day at the mosque of Sultán -Mohammed I., at Merzifún, where he lived and died; his tomb is now -a place generally visited. In his mystic poems he has taken the name -of Rúmí, they are all in the style and cant of the Sofís. We remained -ten days in this town to look at its curiosities. On the tenth day -arrived Murád the Khassekí and Haúrúzjí the Chaúsh, who had been put -into prison for four days by our gracious Lord, the Páshá, that his -messenger, Sáleh, despatched before them to Murteza Páshá, might -arrive first; but “Man proposes and God disposes;” Sáleh was struck by -apoplexy at Nissibín and remained there, while the two messengers of -the Porte, who started four days after him, arrived at Murteza Páshá’s -lodging at Diarbekr, presented him first with the diploma of Captain -Páshá, for which good news they received a sable pelisse and a purse -of money each, and then attacked him suddenly and severed his head -from his body. They now arrived at the Mehkemeh (Court of Justice) of -Merzifún with the head in a box, which they there deposited, and then -came into the presence of the Páshá, who was surrounded by all his -men, their hands grasping the daggers in their belts. The Khassekí -and Chaúsh trembled like leaves, kissed the threshold of the gate and -after having sat down on their heels, the Páshá upbraided them saying, -“Infidels, why have you killed this unfortunate Murteza Páshá? All your -things and saddlecloths had been searched, and nothing was found but -the diploma appointing Murteza, Kapúdán Páshá; where did you hide the -order for his death? Pray, speak the truth.” They said, “Most fortunate -Vezír we are servants who but do what we are ordered. The proverb -says, ‘If there were not the Sultán’s words the executioner would not -commit the deed.’ We hid the order for death in a leaden box, in the -water-bottle, where it escaped the search. We reached Murteza Páshá -before your messenger, who was struck by apoplexy, and after having -prevailed on him to return from Baghdád to Diarbekr, we there opened -the bottle, took out the firmán and executed it. The head is now at -the Mehkemeh, and the command is yours; who should beware of your own -head. Health to you!” The Páshá satisfied with the Khassekí’s answer -gave him a purse of money, saying, “Now get you gone, or God may send -you misfortune!” The Páshá was now troubled about his own fate, and -began to collect Sárija and Segbán (irregular levies), wrote letters to -Várvár Páshá and sent me to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who was then in the -town of his birth (Koprí) and to Hassan Aghá who was at Kilis. - - -_Journey from Merzifún to Koprí._ - -We set out on the 10th Moharrem in a northerly direction along Mount -Deshán, passed the village of Begorán and in six hours reached Koja -Kala’a a small castle on a rock accessible but by one road and one -gate. It was besieged at different times by the rebels Karayázijí, -Saíd Arab and Kalender, but never was taken by them. It was however -conquered by Bayazíd I., from the Dánishmend family and belongs now to -the district of Koprí; the garrison consists of an hundred men, and -it has a mosque, cistern, magazine for corn and seven or eight small -guns, but no bath, khán or bezestán. The inhabitants make cans of -fir-tree, which go by the name of bodúj, they also manufacture musical -instruments called chekúr, tanbúr, rádha, karadozen, yúnghár, &c. In -six hours more, after passing many villages on the border of Mount -Deshán, we arrived at Koprí. - - -_Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí._ - -We dismounted at the house of Yússúf Aghá, where we stopped as guests, -and delivered our letters to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and the other -principal men, we then collected the Búlúk-bashís and ordered cryers -to proclaim that all those who wished to have goods and slaves, and -possessed breeches and a horse, were to come to us. After this we -went to view the town. Koprí is a fortress in good condition on the -border of Mount Deshán, in a tract intersected by hills and valleys at -a place watered by two rivers. One of these is called Bogha-koí and -flows past the bottom of the town; the other is at an hour’s distance, -and is called Astavolúz. The town of Koprí is situated between them. -At the time of their overflowing they inundate the whole plain of -Koprí; the town derives its name Koprí (bridge) from the great wooden -bridge by which the Astavolúz river is crossed. It is a wonderful work -constructed of fir-trees. At an early period this town was called -Shebender, the name for a bridge in the language of the Amalekites. -The stone bridge, which was formerly here, broke down on the night of -the birth of the Prophet, and was replaced by this wooden one. The two -rivers which flow past the town of Koprí unite below it and fall into -the great river Báfra. This town was first built by the Amalekites and -was taken by Melek Ghází, the Prince of the Dánishmend family, from -the Greek Emperors of Trebisonde. Bayazíd I. took the fortress, the -abovesaid castle of Koja Kala’a, by capitulation. It now belongs to -the government of Amasia, half of it being a ziámet and the other half -a subáshílik subordinate to Tokát; the judge is appointed with three -hundred aspers. Its districts contain no less than an hundred and forty -villages with gardens, kháns, mosques covered with lead, and from three -to four thousand houses all covered with bricks; the great borough -Bogház-koí has three thousand houses; the other remarkable places of -similar extent are Baghjeh-koí, Doyán-koí, Akdepeh-koí and Akoren-koí. -From these hundred and forty villages and boroughs the judge annually -collects seven thousand piastres. There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, -Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb, but as it is an inland castle it has -neither commander nor garrison. The rebels Kara Yazijí and Said Arab -were natives of this town, but having been defeated at Erla they fled -and became rebels. To secure this town against them a second castle of -earth was built close to the stone castle, and the two have four gates, -but the shops and markets are outside in the suburb. - -The town of Koprí consists of six thousand houses covered with bricks -of two stories, the lower story being built of stone and the upper -of oak whitened with chalk; so that all the houses dazzle the eye by -their brilliancy. The winter being severe they are all provided with -chimneys, which lift their bonneted heads like white Minárehs. These -chimneys looking like tall white columns give a good appearance to the -town, which is all covered with red bricks. The principal building of -stone in the castle is the Seraï of Elháj Yússúf Aghá built by Koprilí -Mohammed Páshá; there are altogether seventy palaces, and twenty -mihrábs, in eleven of which the khutbeh is performed. In the stone -castle is the mosque of Hájí Yússúf Aghá, with a water basin, a jet -d’eau, and a mináreh covered with lead. Of the convents the first is -that of the great Sheikh, that of the Káderites, and of the Khalvetí, -but there are none of the Mevleví. The people generally are friendly -to Dervishes. There are eleven kháns, two imárets, and five colleges, -because its lawyers, divines, medical men and students are numerous. -The schools for boys are forty-eight, that of Hájí Yússúf is covered -with lead and richly endowed. There are various baths, the best of -which is the double one of Ahmed Páshá, a thousand shops, and a strong -bezestán with four gates. Yússúf Aghá may be called the last builder of -this town which he enriched by a great many endowments; the bezestán -was also his building. The most elegant market-place is that of the -tanners, who illuminate every night their shops with candles; there -are also a great many dyers. Its gardens are in full cultivation and -produce excellent fruits. The pears, grapes, cotton wares, wove and -spun, and the blue linen are as famous as its rosy-cheeked beauties. -The harbours of this town on the shores of the Black Sea are Báfra and -Sinope, which are but a journey distant. At five hours distance is the -strong castle of Ardoghán, which I am now about to describe. - -The castle of Ardoghán is situated on a high hill, which is ascended -by five hundred steps and therefore only accessible to men; it is -a single rock like the fortress of Márdín. The highest point is a -crooked rock, which seems to threaten ruin every moment. Melek Ghází, -the conqueror of Nigissár, also conquered this town; and it was -afterwards taken by Bayazíd I. It is commonly called Seddí Turkmán, -the dyke of the Turcomans. The castle now contains an hundred and -fifty houses, a cistern, mosque, and magazine for corn. Precious -articles are kept within this castle and in that of Koja Kala’a on -the border of mount Deshán. A Dizdár and forty-eight men do the duty. -The castle is rendered safe by a drawbridge against the attacks of -rebels. There is no market khán or bath. The district belongs to the -jurisdiction of Koprí. Six hours westward is the station of Gol, a -village in the district of Zeitún, with a mosque, a khán, and a bath. -Six hours further, the village of Súrúk in the jurisdiction of Zeitún; -and after a march of six hours along the Yaila of Kondúz we arrived -at Zeitún, a large place in the territory of Amasia of two thousand -houses with kháns, mosques, baths, schools and numerous gardens. Six -hours further is the large place (Kassaba) Karghú, belonging to the -sanjak of Kanghrí, of six hundred houses with gardens, a mosque, khán, -and bath. Six hours further, the town of Túsia which has already been -described. We remained here one day and returned again to Merzifún. The -third day I arrived at Koprí, where I found every thing in the greatest -confusion and the whole town in an uproar, because Koprilí Mohammed -Páshá had received orders from the Porte to march against the rebels. -From hence I went in six hours towards the kiblah to the village of -Begoran on the border of mount Deshán, which we had passed in coming -but did not stop at. In another six hours we again reached Merzifún -and met Defterdár-zádeh Mohammed Páshá, my gracious Lord, to whom I -brought two hundred men, Sáríja. He was overjoyed at this and instantly -formed them into two companies (Bolúk), giving them the names of the -company of Evliya Guzerlí and Habíb; and in addition to twenty-four -other companies of irregular levies, they made together twenty-six -hundred men. I remained ten days longer at Merzifún employing my time -in collecting men, and on the 27th of Moharrem left it for the farm of -Murteza Páshá, which I reached in six hours. - -This is a very productive farm (Chiftlik) situated in the plain of -Merzifún. As snow was falling here we suffered much from the cold and -in three hours, after many difficulties, reached Kúlák Hájí Koí, a -village of two hundred houses with a ruined khán and a mosque. The -inhabitants had all fled and there remained not even a cock in the -village. The troops were dying of hunger, and during the night so heavy -a storm blew that the snow was five spans deep in the morning. When the -trumpets of departure sounded we moved on, though every one cursed the -march, and struggling with difficulty against the gale and snow reached -the straight called Diriklipúl, where the distress was very great owing -to the fury of the gale, the quantity of snow, the uncertainty of -the road and the want of provisions. The Páshá distributed money and -encouraged some of the bravest to go in search of the road, through the -midst of the snow, which they passed over in shoes made of horse-hair. -This sort of shoe is called Páchila, and is used in Turkistán and -Persia when snow has fallen to any depth. It consists of a circle -like a sieve, the inside of which is fashioned into a shoe made of -horse-hair; this they put on their feet to walk over the snow. The -circle round the shoe is to give a greater surface to the foot in order -to prevent it from sinking into the snow. Provided with such shoes the -troops entered the straight, but were in the greatest distress, for -some were lost notwithstanding these Páchila. Mules, camels and horses -were stumbling one over the other and cries and lamentations pierced -the air. The Sárija and Segbáns, so many Calibáns (Kaltiban) were the -first who fled. In short it was impossible to pass the straight of -Diriklipúl and therefore we were obliged to repair with the rest of -the troops and the heavy baggage of the Pásha to Gumish Kala’a (Silver -Castle), which we reached after a six hour’s march. We remained here -three days till the falling of the snow had ceased. All those who -hastened to the fire lost their sight for some time, and those only -who did not approach it, but endured the cold, retained the use of -their eyes. Seventeen men lost either a leg or a hand or a foot by the -excessive cold, and the leg or hand being cut off, the stumps were -dipped into boiling resin, so that their cries pierced the air. - - -_Description of the town of Gumish._ - -It was built by the Byzantine Emperors and was conquered by Melek Ghází -of the Dánishmend family. When Bayazíd I. marched to the conquest of -Amasia the inhabitants of Gumish met him, and presented him with some -silver vases and the keys of the castle. The inhabitants are therefore -free of all duties, but it is incumbent upon them to work the silver -mines. The inspectorship is held by lease, and furnishes annually to -the Porte seventy quintals of pure silver, and one thousand pair of -horse-cloths. In the Ottoman Empire there are no less than seventy -silver mines, but this affords the purest silver; the goldsmith alloy -an hundred drachms of this pure silver with ten of copper, and yet -it is a good white silver, which receives the Imperial stamp. There -are seven veins underground, which increase from day to day. The -inhabitants of the town are all employed in the mines, and their -commander is the inspector of the silver mines. The judge, appointed -with an hundred and fifty aspers, may collect seven purses a year. The -castle of this town situated on a hill is in a ruined state and has -no accommodation at all within; being an inland castle it has neither -a garrison nor commander. There is a Serdár and a Kiaya-yerí of the -Janissaries, and the town consists of a thousand houses covered with -planks, eleven mosques, of which that in the market-place is the most -frequented, but no hospital, the salubrity of the air rendering one -superfluous. Its products are the purest silver and horse-cloths -and bags, which the Imperial stables and those of the principal -men of Constantinople are furnished with from hence. The gardens -produce good grapes. In the town are heaped up mounds of earth taken -from the mines. We remained here three days on account of the heavy -gales, and then advanced five hours to the south, suffering from -the snow, to Dankaza-koí, a village of an hundred houses belonging -to the jurisdiction of Gumish in the territory of Amasia. Near the -farm of Kosseh Sha’abán Páshá is the Pilgrimage of Bardáklí-bábá and -Akche-bábá, who are both buried here. The first gained his living by -making cans (Bardák) for which the village is still famous. We visited -the tomb of Bardáklí-bábá; after holding a council we approached, -amidst a thousand difficulties, the high mountain of Kirk Dilim, which -was passed with much suffering and the loss of many stragglers who -returned to Dánkaza. Alí Aghá, the Kiaya of the Páshá, encouraged some -brave lads, who had not yet lost their hands and feet, to wrap up the -feet of the horses and mules by tearing up many carpets and coverlets, -and in this way passed them over the snowy mountain of Kirk Dilim; but -the heavy baggage, the munition, cellar, kitchen, and artillery were -all left in the snow. The Kiaya of the Páshá again distributing money, -the bags and casks were dragged up and rolled over the snow. This -night was passed in a woody valley without the means of getting on, -and seventy men, who had lost their hands and feet, remained behind. -The next morning we continued our way amidst snow and storms through -the straight of Kirk Dilim, and arrived after eight hours painful -march at a village, the name of which has escaped my memory, whose -inhabitants had all fled upon the news of our arrival. Men and horses -during the night were nearly dying of hunger, and there was such a -gale and heavy storm of snow that in the morning it was five spans in -depth. On the signal of departure being given the Kullákjí, conductors -(Sarbán), and tent-pitchers (Mehter) assembled before the Páshá’s tent -and declared they were unable to stir. Ten piastres were promised to -the men, but they answered, “Health first, then wealth.” The Páshá -said, “My children, how is it possible to remain in this place, where -there is not a grain of provisions?” In short the Kullákjí (leaders) -could not be induced to move on until they had received a present of -fifteen purses from the Páshá. There was, however, such a storm of -wind, hail and snow that the horses danced like Dervishes Mevleví, and -the camels like Lúlús (Tatar robbers). The unhappy leaders of them -put their hands in their bosoms and uttered a piteous cry. Praise be -to God! we now entered a forest and were a little sheltered against -the wind and snow, and after a march of five hours arrived at the -great village of Bardákjí, in the jurisdiction of Gumish, consisting -of an hundred houses. From hence continuing our march to the south we -arrived in four hours at the station of Kirk Dilim, a place of two -hundred Mussulmen houses in the sanjak of Chorún. Here both men and -horses rested till the following day, when the weather clearing up we -proceeded through cultivated villages to the town of Chorúm, said to -have been built (God knows if truly) by Kilij Arslán, the Prince of -the Seljúk family, who sent his son Yakúb Mirza and some hundred sick -men to this town, where being cured, it received in consequence the -name of Chorúm. From the hands of the Seljúkides it passed into those -of the Dánishmend family from whom it was taken by Ilderím; it is now -the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the government of Sívás. His khass is three -hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets, and thirty-one timárs. There -is a Colonel (Alaí-beg) a Captain (Cherí-báshí) a judge appointed with -an hundred and fifty aspers, and receiving from its districts annually -five purses, a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Mohtessib, Súbáshí, -Inspector of the hall (Kapán Emíní) and Náíb of the town. The military -officers are in great favour because the troops are numerous and there -are a great number of bad men. Lodgings were positively refused to our -Páshá; but mediators were employed and documents were made out at the -Mehkemeh (Court of Justice), so that they were prevailed upon to give -us lodgings, but only for the space of three days. The town consists -of forty-two quarters in which are forty-two mosques, four thousand -three hundred houses covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; -nine mosques where the Friday prayer is performed, of which that of -Sultán Murad is the best, it had but one minareh which was throw down -by Ilderím Bayazíd. The mosque of Sultán Ala-ud-dín was repaired under -Sultán Súleimán by the architect Sinán; as it is situated in the -market-place it is much frequented. That of Murad covered with lead is -the finest. The new bath is a foundation belonging to the bath of Alí -Páshá at Tokát; in the palaces are many other baths. Of the colleges, -of which there are seven, that of Murad is the most frequented; there -are eleven schools for boys, seven kháns and eighteen fountains, -the water by which they are supplied was conducted hither by Sultán -Súleimán, in honour of the martyrs of Kerbela (who died of thirst). -The convents of Dervishes are three, but no house for reading the -korán or for tradition exists. The shops are three hundred, in which -all the necessaries of life are to be found, although this is a town -of Turkistán. The temperature of the climate gives red cheeks and good -proportions to the inhabitants, who almost all wear cloth. The fair sex -and the winter are both renowned. The Castle on the kiblah side of the -town has only been built for protection against riots and rebellion. -It has an iron gate, a commander and garrison. God knows! but it seems -to have been built since the Islám, because there is no trace of any -building of the time of the infidels. - -On the day we came here the late chief barber of the Sultán arrived in -the quality of Kapijí-báshí accompanied by forty other chamberlains, -saying, that he was the bearer of the diploma of the government of -Diárbekr. The Páshá surrounded himself with all his guards, Sárija, -Segbán, Gonullí (volunteers) three hundred pages and all the Levends. -The forty kapijís entered trembling and the Páshá having asked, where -the diploma was they had boasted of, was assailed all at once by -them, but before they were able to do any harm to him, they were all -disarmed and bound by his guards and soldiers. The Segbán and Sárija -called for the executioners and were going to cut off their heads, -when the principal men of the town kissed the earth before the Páshá, -and begged the lives of these kapijí-báshís, who were, they said, -only servants executing their master’s commands and therefore should -be spared. The Páshá yielding to their prayers set them at liberty, -instead of thrashing them to death as he ought to have done. Being -liberated they went to the Mehkemeh, called the Sanjak Beg, read the -firmán and demanded in consequence that the troops should be driven -out of the town. The inhabitants remonstrated against it, showing that -they might all be in danger of being cut to pieces and their houses -burned down, if they were to undertake the least thing against the -troops. The Páshá being made acquainted in time of what was going on, -sent word to the kapijís immediately to quit the place if they wished -to escape in safety. Thus they were all driven out of the town. The -next day a messenger was despatched to Várvár Alí Páshá to acquaint -him with what had happened. The inhabitants finding that our Páshá was -a goodnatured and righteous Vezír gave him the salutary advice not to -march to Constantinople, but always to remain at one or two journeys -distance from Várvár Alí Páshá, and to take his station, until the snow -should melt and the weather clear up, at Tokát or Kázova. The Páshá -approving of their advice, visited the tomb of Sheikh Olván Chelebí, -the son of Ashik Páshá, and proceeded to Tokát. In this plain we -remained ten days, during which the Páshá received letters from Várvár -Alí Páshá, exhorting him to be on his guard, and, as the spring was now -approaching and the weather clearing up, to collect as many troops as -he could for the march to Constantinople. The Páshá made as though he -were going to Angora, and on the eleventh day we arrived in the plain -of Chorúm at the convent of Sídim Sultán, a convent of bareheaded and -barefooted Begtáshí, where the Páshá was lodged and splendidly feasted. -The village of Kara Kechelí of two hundred houses in the territory -of Chorúm is an hour’s distance from the red river. Here the snow -beginning to fall and the wind to blow, the Sárija and Segbán drove the -families out of their houses, threw the cradles with the children in -them on to the snow, dug out the gates and thresholds to bring their -horses into the rooms to the fire, and committed the same excesses, -that they did at Gumish and Dánkaza, and which exceeded even the -tyranny of Yessúf Hejáj. The next day we left Kara Kechelí and instead -of passing over the bridge of Cháshnegír on the red river, proceeded -to the passage of Kara Yechíd; which was indeed a bad measure, because -the passage is a cruel one. It had ceased snowing but was so piercingly -cold that the men and horses trembled like leaves; nevertheless the -orders for the passage were given. It commenced with the tent-camels, -the kitchen, stable and other heavy baggage of the Páshá’s led by -twenty able pilots. Two hundred strings of camels and one hundred of -mules belonging to the Páshá, as well as mine and the Kiaya’s passed -over, and, went with all this heavy luggage to Kúrdseraí, but myself -and the Kiaya remained on this side of the river waiting to see the -passage of the baggage of all the Aghás. In the morning their heavy -things arrived along with the treasure-camels of the Páshá, but at the -moment the pilots had entered the river with them, there arose such a -storm of hail and snow, of thunder and of lightning, that the strings -of mules and camels were broken, numbers of them upset in the middle -of the river, and a great many lost. Great masses of ice, the shape of -mill-wheels, now began to float down the river and blocked the shores -at the bridge of Cháshnegír. In the midst of the confusion which took -place on both shores of the river, the Páshá arrived with his music -sounding. He distributed large sums of money amongst the inhabitants of -Kúrdseraí, who rescued the men and animals, while the troops on both -sides of the river were running about crying and lamenting. Some brave -fellows swam amongst the drifting shoals, but others were submerged, -and camels, mules, horses and men, were floating about in confusion -and dismay; some of whom were drowned and some saved. Some Kurds and -Turcomans swam into the midst of the ice and rescued many camels, mules -and horses, but as those who had crossed had left their clothes on this -side the river, it so happened that a great number perished from cold. -Of all the baggage, only that which had passed over before the ice -began to drift was saved, the rest was lost. An hundred and sixty men, -more than a thousand horses and mules were drowned, but only a small -number of camels. The drowned men were for the most part Kulenkjí, -Sárija and Segbán; some going to paradise and others to hell: the -latter were at least delivered from the hell of winter. This horrible -discomfiture lasted only from the morning till afternoon, when the -drifting of the ice and the storm suddenly ceased, so that the Tatars, -Delís, and Gonillás, who had waited till then, crossed over without the -least difficulty. Witnessing these misfortunes I reflected on the cruel -conduct of those troops, who had behaved in so barbarous a manner in -the passage at Chardáklí-púlí, and now at Kúrd-dereh: burning down the -houses, throwing infants on the snow and wounding men and women with -battle-axes. The inhabitants of the villages came crying and lamenting -to the Páshá,; but what was to be done with this crowd of Sárija and -Segbán, of whom the Páshá stood in need and whose excesses therefore -he was obliged to tolerate. I, poor Evliya, whilst witnessing those -scenes, shivered at the thought of the vengeance which God would send -one day on those cruel troops. - - -_Praise of Sheikh Bárdáklí-bábá._ - -Near the above mentioned place is the pilgrimage of a Saint called -Bárdáklí-bábá, a disciple of Sheikh Hájí Bairám. He obtained his living -by making cans, which afforded a continual supply of water for the -ablutions of his disciples. His can is suspended from his tomb and -therefore he is called Bárdáklí-bábá, the father of cans or tankards. -With the leave of the tomb-keeper, I took down the suspended can to -perform my ablutions and found it full of clear water, though covered -with the dust of forty years. The Páshá’s Imám and some others of his -suite were astonished at this extraordinary sight, they asked the -keeper if he would swear the can had not been recently filled with -water. He swore that it had not been touched for forty years until -I, poor Evliya, had taken it down to perform my ablutions. The Imám -and the others said, “Well then Evliya hang it up again,” but I being -determined to carry my point would not until I had performed the -ablution in the legal way. The Imám and four other persons then did -the same, but the water was not diminished in the least to our great -astonishment. We again hung up the can, which was of a reddish colour, -and on its side was written the verse of the Súra Ra’ad, “He sent water -from heaven,” the number 66626, three Ks, two Js and one M, the figure -of a glass and of a can. I now began to recite the Korán according to -the intention of the Saint, with whom I made spiritual acquaintance, -remarking the Prophet’s tradition, “If you are perplexed in your -affairs look for assistance from the Inhabitants of the tombs.” The -mirror of my heart was polishing and rubbing off the rust of sadness, -when a woman walked in, who threw the body of a dead child and herself -on the threshold of the tomb, crying and lamenting that her child had -been killed by the troops, who had cast it on the snow, and calling -down divine vengeance upon them, through the aid of the Prophet and the -Saints. She was followed by a great number of injured men, who united -their prayers and imprecations with hers. I trembled at hearing them, -and drawing near with a friendly face, kissing their hands and cheeks, -I said to them, “People of Mohammed, I also belong to the troops of -the Páshá, who, God knows, does not approve of their excesses; but he -has been forced to collect them in order to save his own head, which -is endangered by the Grand Vezír, Ahmed Páshá, on whom must be laid -the fault of all this.” An old man gave me some comfort by saying, -that I was not included in this imprecation, which was to fall only on -the troops; and a good deal of it was realized at the above described -passage of the river, where so many lost their lives and goods, while -I, poor Evliya, God be thanked for it! passed over safely to the -opposite side. - -The borough of Kúrdlar-seraí (wolves’ palace) is situated in the -Sanjak of Kánghrí in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik on the bank of the -red river and consists of four hundred houses covered with terraces, -a mosque, a khán and a bath. Here the Páshá appointed two Aghás to -watch the endeavours made to retrieve from the river some of the lost -baggage. Moving on to the north we arrived at the village of Boyalí, -situated in the territory of Kanghrí; five hours further, the village -Akche-Koyúnlí of an hundred Turcoman houses; and three hours further, -the village of Kojí-bábá, situated in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik, of -two hundred Turcoman houses, which do not appear above ground but are -all below it, with stables, kitchens and sitting-rooms. The reason for -the construction of these subterraneous houses is the violence of the -winter; they are all built of a soft stone, which has the appearance -of having been whitened with chalk. Chests, boxes, and rafters are all -cut in this stone, which is as soft as cheese; the houses are so large, -that a thousand men might be lost in them, and yet is there nothing -seen of them above ground. Here is the pilgrimage of Kojí-bábá, one -of the disciples of Hájí-begtásh. There is no other building but the -convent; the tomb is adorned with lamps and candelabras. His banner, -drum, habit and carpet are all preserved as though he were himself -present. The Turcomans have great faith in this saint. At Keskin (the -name of this place) is also the tomb of Sheikh Ibrahím Tenúrí Ben -Sarráf Hossein, one of the disciples of Ak-shems-ud-dín; he was born -at Sivás. Five hours further to the north is the village of Sheikh -Shámí of the order of Bairámís, whose name was Hamza; the sect of the -Hamzeví take their name from him. Many miracles are recorded of him, -one of them is the spring which he called forth by his staff and which -is, therefore, actually called the Spring of the Staff. He is buried -beneath a high cupola near the mosque which he himself built, but which -is not covered with lead. Its mihráb is of very great dimensions, and -the stones are adorned with inscriptions in Kúfí, Jellí, Mostea’assemí, -Ríhání, and Thúlúth characters. The verses: “Every time Zacharias went -before the Mihráb,” and “He was standing praying before the Mihráb,” -and the verses Kursí and Emen-er-ressúl are written upon it. On both -sides it is carved and sculptured in a most astonishing way with -flowers and arabesque ornaments, so that the stone seems rather to -be engraved or painted than sculptured. Some say it is the work of -Sheikh Shám himself, and it is indeed probable because it is such a -wonderful work, like the paintings of Mání and Behzád Aghá Riza Wání. -Before his tomb rises the Spring of the Staff which is much visited. -From hence we went five hours to the north to the village of Hossein -Aghá in the district of Kala’ajik and five hours further to the village -of Kala’ajik itself, which was built by the Prince of Brússa Sirúna -for his daughter. Topál the commander of Kastemúní conquered it; and -he resisted the Ottoman power, till at last Ilderím Bayazíd took by -surprise this castle, which is not to be conquered in any other way. It -is now the seat of a Subáshí of the Sanjak of Kánghrí, and a judge is -appointed to it with an hundred and fifty aspers, and collects from the -districts annually four purses; there is also a Dizdár and a garrison -of twenty men. - - -_Form of the Castle._ - -It is situated on a high reddish cliff, towering into the clouds, as -though built by Ferhád. The walls are sixty royal cubits high, as it -is an isolated rock there are no ditches. An iron-gate opens to the -kiblah side and within the castle are about twenty houses, a mosque, a -magazine of corn, a cistern, and six small guns. The inhabitants of the -neighbouring tracts deposit in this castle their effects and precious -things from fear of rebels and robbers, and the commander is the keeper -of these deposited goods. It is not commanded by any neighbouring -height and is surrounded with gardens. One the kiblah-side is a -well-built suburb, but without fortifications (robát), consisting of -two thousand houses partly covered with bricks and partly with earth; -the largest is the palace of Shehsuvár Páshá, they all face towards -the kiblah-side; the streets instead of being paved with stone, are -all strewn with sand. There are seventeen mosques, that in the market -place having one mináreh, thirteen schools for boys, a small bath, -three khans and six coffee-houses; the air is good, but not the water. -We lodged here in the palace of Shehsuvár Páshá, and I thanked God that -I could change clothes, and lie quietly down after the many fatigues -undergone. - - -_The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán._ - -There is but one steep path from the castle, at the bottom of which -near the market is the tomb of this saint in a narrow place. On leaving -it we marched five hours to the North to the village of Kúrbághlí, in -the territory of Kánghrí and the district of Kala’ajik, of two hundred -houses with mosques and gardens, where Sheikh Abd-allah, the son of -Sheikh Shámí, is buried; his tomb is covered with a simple roof, and -is without a convent. Five hours further to the North we came to the -village of Nenegler, in the territory of Kala’ajik, a Turkish village -of an hundred houses; a cubit of snow fell during the night, so that -nobody could leave their lodgings. In the morning when departure was -sounded the horses were loaded with the greatest pain; Turks served as -guides, and thus we marched three hours to the straight of Alák-púlí, -where we were assailed by such a storm and rain, that the confusion -and horror was general, and many lost their lives. The Aghás of the -Páshá, and even his treasurers left the treasure and fled away. Mustafa -Beg the son of the Páshá with his governor (Lálá), master (Khoja) and -servants were missing; the strings of mules and camels were broken and -they were straying on the mountains. I halted a little in a sheltered -valley and then with six of my boys and three packhorses looked for a -house, where I found three others of my slaves and ten Cháshnegírs; so -that we were now twenty-five persons. Thus we passed the straight of -Sárí Alák and arrived happily at the plain on the other side without -knowing where we were going to. - - (_Here six pages of the original are omitted, which give a detailed - account of Evliya’s falling into a nest of robbers, headed by - Hyder-zádeh, Kátirjí-zádeh and other robbers, who held their meeting - at Háji-bábá’s, an old rogue. The robbers, on being informed by Evliya - of the Páshá’s being near, made off, and Evliya was kept by Háji-bábá - until rescued by his people and other armed men of the Páshá’s suite, - with whom he shared the rich presents which he forced out of Háji-bábá - upon taking an oath that he would not betray this den of robbers. - Evliya again joined the Páshá at the village of Hossein Aghá._) - -The village of Hossein Aghá is situated in the district of Jubúk-owassá -on a high hill. This is the pilgrimage of Ghazí Hossein of Malatia -the father of Sídí Battál. Where there are more than an hundred -Dervishes Begtáshí versed in Arabic and Persian knowledge. The tomb is -surrounded with golden candlesticks, Koráns, &c. There are two places -of religious exercise for the summer and for the winter. The valleys of -Jubúk, Yebán, and Merbút are at the foot of this convent: Every year a -Mevlúd or birth-feast is held here, when forty to fifty thousand men -assemble to celebrate the feast of Hossein Sídí Batál’s father, one -of the descendants of Imám Hossein, and who like him was killed by -the hands of the Infidels. I gave to the Dervishes ten piastres for -alms, immolated three victims and received the Sheikh’s benediction -amidst the general shout of Allah! At the foot of the hill I met my -Lord the Páshá with whom during ten days I overran the plain of Jubúk, -as if I were going on conscription. This plain comprehends seven -districts, and seventy villages. We spent ten more days on the plain -of Yebán, containing an hundred cultivated villages belonging to the -jurisdiction of Angora, and ten days more in the jurisdiction of Jorba -of eighty-six villages. We passed a month in these three plains and -celebrated Nevrúz (the spring’s commencement) near Angora. The weather -now was mild, but we were all exhausted from the continual fatigue of -loading and unloading heavy loads. At last we returned to the village -of Hossein in the commencement of the year 1058 (1648). From hence we -marched in seven hours to the north amidst cultivated villages and -arrived at Angora. - - -_Description of Angora._ - -On the day that our quartermasters entered the town with the tails it -was declared to them in the court of justice, that the Páshá would not -be allowed to enter the fortress on account of his intentions being -known to be those of a rebel, but that in consequence of the great -number of friends and clients in the town, he would be well treated -and lodged there for three days. We entered with a great Istikbál -(procession of meeting) and were saluted by the firing of twenty -guns. I was lodged in the house of Keder-zádeh and went straight to -the convent of Hájí-bairám, where I read the Korán, and fulfilled the -vow I had made when in the hands of the robbers, distributing to the -Dervishes an hundred piastres of the money obtained at the village of -Bálik-hissár from the robbers. - -Angora was conquered by Yakúbsháh, the Prince of Kútahia of the Germián -family and by his Vezir Hezár-dínar, and then by Sultán Orkhán. If -Angora is viewed from the village of Erkiksú, which is a journey’s -distance from the north, it appears a brilliant place; for the houses -rising one behind the other, similarly to Buda on the Danube, makes it -look like a ship of transport (Maúna) which has set up its trees and -adorned its head. Buda, Ván and Angora are the three first fortresses -of the Empire: its name (Engúrí) is Persian, given from the quantity -of grapes (Engúr) which are found here. It is said to have been built -by a Byzantine Emperor, and employed forty thousand workmen for seven -years, who each day received forty nuts and a loaf apiece. It is -also called the leafy castle (Motabbak), because its different parts -cover one another like leaves of a tree, and the castle of the chains -(Selasil) because the Emperor Heraclius surrounded it with seven chains -on the birth year of the Prophet. The Mogols call it Ankra; the Tatars, -Kermen Ankra; the Germans, Constantinople (!) the Turks, Aidín Karí, -Unkúr and Ungorú. In the Imperial Registers it is spelled Ankra. It -is the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the province of Anatoli, and has been -given many times as living (Arpalik) to Vezírs of three tails. The -khass of the Páshá is two hundred and sixty three thousand four hundred -aspers, fourteen ziámets, and two hundred and fifty seven timárs, an -Alai-beg (Colonel) Cherí-beg (Captain) and Yúzbáshí (Lieutenants). -The Zaims and Timariots with the Jebelle make three thousand armed -men. The Súbashís depending from Angora are, those of the town, that -of Mertátova, of Yebánava, of Jubúkova, and of Jorba, which annually -import forty thousand piastres. The Judge is a Molla of five hundred -aspers, whose revenues may be calculated at twenty purses a year. There -are also a Sheikh-ul-islám or Muftí, a Nakíb-ul-eshraf, or head of -the Emírs, Seids and Sherífs (the relations of the Prophet), a Serdár -of the Janissaries, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a Náíb of the town -and a Mohtessib (provost and lieutenant of police) the commanding -officers of the Jebejí and Topjí, a Dizdár (commander of the castle) -and a garrison of an hundred men. The castle is situated on a high -mountain, mocking all assaults, rising in four natural terraces, so -that there is a distance of three hundred paces from one enclosure to -the other; the height of each wall is sixty cubits and the breadth -ten royal cubits; the foundations are all built on vaults. The castle -forms an oblong square from east to west. It has four iron-gates one -behind the other towards the west, each strengthened behind by iron -cages. These iron cages or gratings are thrown before the gates in -time of sieges, the bars are of the thickness of an arm. The gate on -the extremity of the fortress looking to the Horse market opens to the -west, on the upper part of it are suspended the arms of old knights, -and the bones of a whale. The guards keep watch here day and night. -If the commander leaves the castle the garrison are empowered to kill -him, or at least to exile him for ever. Abaza, the rebel, besieged -this town with an hundred thousand men, and took possession of the -lower town, but wounded by a cannon shot from the upper castle, he -was obliged to return to Erzerúm; the commander ever since has been -prohibited from leaving the castle, and the watchmen all night long -cry, Yegdir-allah, One is God! It has no ditch on one side on account -of the rocks, and it is not easily to be attacked by mines because its -quarters rise one behind the other. The four enclosures have eighteen -hundred battlements, and its circumference is four thousand paces. On -the east side is a place of pilgrimage situated on a hill, it is called -Khizrlik; this hill looks over the town, which is of no consequence as -it is not within gun-shot distance. The inner castle is defended by -sixty-eight guns, but none of them are large. The houses number six -hundred and are all terraced, but have neither gardens nor vineyards; -the old mosque was formerly a convent. The lower town was surrounded -with a wall by Ahmed Páshá against the rebels. It has four gates, -and its circumference on the three sides, on which it does not join -the citadel, is six thousand paces. On the east side of the superior -castle you descend into the valley of Khizrlik by a road leading down -for fetching water. In the inner castle are cisterns and magazines; -but in the lower town are no cisterns, because water is in abundance, -there being an hundred and seventy fountains, three thousand wells, -seventy-six mosques, those of Ahmed Páshá and Hájí Beirám the saint, -having been built by the great Sinán, fifteen convents of Dervishes -with mihráb (mosques) the greatest of them is that of Hájí Bairám, -where three hundred Dervishes of his order follow the rules of their -founder. Their first patron is Khoja Abd-ul-Kádír Jeilání, by whom they -ascend to the prophet; in Rúmelí they are called also Hamzeví from -Sheikh Hamza. There is likewise a fine convent of Mevlevís founded -by Ahmed Páshá. The colleges are richly endowed, three houses for -lectures on tradition, an hundred and eighty schools for boys, two -hundred baths, seventy palaces with gardens; all these buildings are -of brick not stone, and covered with earth instead of with bricks, six -thousand six hundred and sixty houses, and two hundred sebíl-kháneh -or establishments for distributing water. The shops are two thousand, -and there is an elegant bezestán with four gates with chains; the -market places are almost all on elevated spots; the coffee houses and -barber’s-shops are always crowded; the public places and streets are -paved with white stones. Its divines, poets, and learned and pious men -are innumerable, although it is a Turkish town, it counts more than two -thousand boys and girls who know the Korán by heart; some thousand also -know by heart the Mohammedieh, or works on the Mohammedan religion by -Yázijí-zadeh Mohammed Efendí. Some of its inhabitants have the repute -of performing miracles like Abd-ur-rahman Efendí, a pious man, who is -free of four enticements, viz. hair, brows, beard and eye-lashes; he is -descended from Hájí Bairám’s family, who had the same advantage. - - -_Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint._ - -In his youth he was once invited by a cunning woman, who in order -to seduce the Saint, with whom she was in love, began to praise his -hair, beard, brows and eye-lashes. The Saint retired into a corner and -prayed to God that he might be delivered of these four inducements to -lust, and become of an ugly form; he then returned without a hair into -the woman’s presence, who shocked at his ugliness had him turned out -of doors by her maidens. Hence the descendants of the Saint by his -daughter actually wear short beards (Kosseh). - -The rich inhabitants of the town wear Ferrájes of sable, those of -the middle class, Serhaddís of cloth and Contoshes, the workmen -Ferrájes of white linen, the Ulemas, of wool, and the women also of -wool of different colours. The climate and temperature being mild the -inhabitants are fair with red faces. - - -_The Eatables and Products._ - -The calves’ and sheep’s feet of Angora are the counter part of those of -Kútahia; the salted flesh (Pássdirma) of its goats has an excellent -perfume. These goats called Teftekgechí are of a brilliant whiteness; -of the hair is made the soft (Shalloon) of different, colours which is -worn by Monarchs. If the wool is cut by scissors it becomes coarse, but -if pulled out it is as soft and as fine as the silk of Eyúb (Job). The -poor goats, when the hair is pulled out in that way, raise lamentable -cries; to avoid this some wash them with a mixture of chalk and ashes, -by which they are enabled to pull out the hair without difficulty or -giving pain; thus the poor goats are stripped naked. The hair is then -worked into Shalloons, and both men and women are busy at making or -selling them. The Franks tried to transport the goats of Angora into -their own country, but God be praised! they degenerated into common -goats, and the stuff wove from their hair was no Súf (Shalloon). They -then took the hair of the Angora-goat and tried to work it into Sof, -but were never able to give it the true lustre (Máj). They now make of -it for their monks a kind of black shalloon, which however has neither -colour nor lustre. The inhabitants of Angora say that the exclusive -working of fine shalloon is granted to them by the miracles of Hájí -Bairám, and the water and air. Indeed the sof (Shalloon) of Angora is -the most famous in the world; the chalk also of Angora is renowned. -Its inhabitants make great journies to Frengistán and Egypt to sell -their Shalloons. There are a great number of Jews, but few Greeks and -Copts. The inhabitants are a goodnatured hospitable people. It is an -incomparable town, which may God preserve till the end of time in the -hands of the Ottomans! - -The day I entered Angora I visited the tomb of Hájí Bairám, recited -the Korán and then returned to my lodgings where I soon fell asleep. -In a dream I saw a man with a yellow beard, honey-coloured cowl and -a turban of twelve folds on his head, who upbraided me for having -visited Hájí Bairám’s tomb and passed by his. I asked, who he was? and -he said, “Didst thou not call on Sárí Sáltik Dedeh, when in thy youth -thou performed prayer in the Convent of the Wrestlers at Constantinople -in Sultán Murad’s presence? didst thou not say that I was known here -by the name of Er Sultán? I am lying here under a thick cupola near -the wood market, where thou shouldest visit me and give me joy with a -fátihah. I will send to-morrow morning a man of my resemblance, who -shall lead thee to my tomb.” I awoke, said my prayers, and was waiting, -when a man came of the form of him I saw in my dream, and told me, -that Er Sultán had appeared to him in a dream and had commanded him -to show me his burying place. This man had a radiant face, and his -voice was as hollow as if it came from underground. We passed through -eleven quarters of the town and visited in passing all the tombs of -Saints, which I shall mention by and by, if it pleases God! At last -there appeared on the western side of the wood-market a small cupola, -which my companion pointed out to me, saying, “This is the tomb of Er -Sultán.” Whilst I was looking at it on my right side, he disappeared -on my left, and I was at a loss to know what had become of him and -fancied that he must have walked through a door covered with felt -which was near me. I opened it, walked in, and saw it was a Búza-house -full of riot. Ashamed of having got into such society I left the room -immediately and made the best of my way to the cupola which had been -shown to me. There I laid my face on the threshold and prayed to the -Saint, saying, that I had arrived by his blessing, and begged he would -not let me depart void of benediction in this and the other world. I -now commenced the recital of the Korán, and sheltering myself under -the green Súf with which the coffin was covered, said, “Protection, -protection, O Er Sultán!” I then fell asleep and sweated to such -a degree that when I woke my clothes were wet. Er Sultán appeared -to me again and I begged that he would not let me go hence void of -benediction. He replied, “Thou wilt not be void of it, because thou -art a Háfiz (knowing the Korán by heart) and a lover of the Saints -(Evliya) whose tombs thou always visitest. I led thee myself to this -place, I am a perfect leader (Murshid Kámil), thy path is straight. Be -merciful to the poor and weak, and tell thy Páshá not to molest the -inhabitants of Angora. God will grant to thee travel and good health, -and in thy last moments faith. Eat, speak, sleep and know little, but -do a great deal, for actions are necessary to discover the way to -God, because He hath said in the Korán, ‘Good words ascend, and good -works exalt.’ Honour thy parents, and the Sheikhs (Pír), and thy end -shall be happy. Say now a fátihah with this intent.” Here I was awoke -by a noise and voices saying, “Is there no tomb-keeper?” I arose from -beneath the cover of the coffin and to the question of the visitors, -“Whether I was the tomb-keeper?” replied, “Yes!” When they were gone I -returned home shedding many tears, and related my vision to the Páshá, -who also related to me a similar dream that he had had. He instantly -gave orders that all the Sárija and Segbán should deliver up their arms -and leave in quiet the inhabitants of Angora. The Páshá had had some -idea of shutting himself up in the town and declaring it in a state of -rebellion, but he immediately abandoned it after these visions. I then -made it a duty to myself to visit every day, during my stay at Angora, -the tombs of Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán and others of the Saints, which -I am now about to mention. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -Sheikh Hájí Bairám, the pole and column of sanctity, was born on the -bank of the river Chepúl in the village of Solkoi and was the disciple -of Sheikh Hámed. At the time when Sultán Báyazíd I. was at Adrianople, -Sheikh Bairám preached there in the old mosque, and the pulpit which -he ascended is still shown. Different Sheikhs who tried to ascend -this pulpit could never utter a word, because none were worthy to -preach after him in the same place. After his death, which happened -in Báyazíd’s reign, he was buried beneath a high cupola in the inner -castle of Angora. Sheikh Er Sultán, the leader of divine truth, the -discoverer of mysteries, called Mahmúd by his proper name, was born at -Angora, and reposes beneath a small cupola in the wood market. East -of Angora on a high mountain is the pilgrimage of Hízr, a pleasure -place from which a fine view of the town is enjoyed. This Saint was -the disciple of Sheikh Hossám-ud-dín, and being imprisoned at Angora -he gave the order one evening to be buried the next day, and in the -morning, without any body having been near him, he was found washed, -perfumed, and ready for burial. Sheikh Kátib Saláh-ud-dín was a great -astronomer, a second Pythagoras. There are a great number of other -Saints, which I do not mention, as I could not visit their tombs during -my short stay. - -The day of our departure being fixed, I made myself as light as -possible, by giving away a part of what I had taken from the robbers’ -den in alms, and the rest as a pawn to the master of the house where I -lodged and got ready with seven Mamlúcs and one light pack horse. In -the morning I heard an uproar and riot by which heaven and earth was -thrown into confusion. Some were exclaiming that they were satisfied -with the Páshá, others that he was a rebel for having united with -Várvár Páshá, and that it was necessary to obey the Emperor’s command. -In short Mustafa, one of the Emperor’s Kapijí, had arrived with forty -of his companions; they had shut the gates of the castle and proclaimed -a general call to arms (Nefír-a’ám). Most fortunately the Páshá, who -had been terrified by a disastrous dream, was gone incognito to visit -the tomb of Sídí Battál’s father, and could not therefore be found in -his palace, which was searched in every part by the Kapijí. The Páshá -of course did not re-enter the town but repaired to the village of -Erkeksú, which is to the north of it, and sent a letter to his Kiaya to -request him to send his troops. In the mean time the Páshá not having -been found the gates were opened and a proclamation issued, that all -who belonged to the Páshá were to leave the town instantly; I therefore -took leave of the master of my house and Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán, and -arrived after seven hours’ march at the village of Erkeksú consisting -of two hundred houses and a mosque at the foot of a rock. Seven hours -further on we arrived at the great place Istanozí, with a judge of one -hundred and fifty aspers, in the district of Mortátova, bordering on -a valley, on each side of which are towering rocks; it has a thousand -houses without gardens, a mosque, a bath and market: the river Erkek -flows through it. This place had formerly two great gates at either -end, which were destroyed in the time of Murad III. by the rebel -Korayazijí; if these two gates were restored it would be impossible -to take the place, because it is situated between two walls of high -rocks on which eagles and vultures build their nests, but to which -man scarcely dares to lift up his eyes. These rocks are as tremendous -as those of Ván, Shabín and Márdín, some of them are excavated below -like Mount Bisútún and some are shaped above like dragons, lions and -elephants. The inhabitants are for the most part Armenians. About a -thousand looms are employed in working Súf. This place being enclosed -by two rocks the air is very warm. The Armenian girls here are famed -for their beauty. There are caverns which can hold a thousand horses. -Formerly an old castle stood here on a rock. - -The day we entered the town there was a great conflux of men to see -tumblers and wrestlers exhibit their tricks; Istanoz and the town of -Kodoz in Anatoli being the places where tumblers and wrestlers assemble -to make bets. They stretch the rope from one rock to the other and -place watchmen at each end, that enemies may not cut it when they -are dancing on it. The rocks and the valley beneath are crowded with -spectators and on both sides of the river, which flows through the -valley, tents are pitched for the spectators. We witnessed during three -days the tricks of seventy six tumblers, who were followed by three -hundred scholars, to whom they gave lessons in their art. - - (_The Description of the tricks, and an account of two letters from - and to Vávár Páshá, are here omitted._) - -Having received the letters of My Lord the Páshá I passed Hossein Ghází -and Bálik-hissár, halted at the village of Sárí Alán, and further on -passed Kala’ajik, Sheikh Shámí, Akche-koyúnli, and the river Kizil -Irmák with great ease at Kárdlar, heard that Várvár Páshá had left the -station of Túrhál, and met him further on to the eastward at Gergezár. -I first went as the rule requireth to his kiaya, who conducted me -to the presence of the Páshá. He was seated in a tent, like Solomon -surrounded by many thousand Sárija and Segbán. I kissed the ground -and delivered the letter in the usual form. Having looked into my -face and said, “Art not thou Evliya Chelebí, who at the mosque of Aya -Sofia recited in the night Kadr, the Korán in eight hours? and who -was received by Sultán Murad amongst the pages of the Kíldár.” Having -replied, “Yes,” he asked further in what office I was to the Páshá. I -said, that on the way to Erzerúm I was head of the Muezzins, but that -he afterwards made me clerk of the Custom-house and sent me three times -into Persia, and that now I was his Imám and intimate companion. The -servants having been ordered to withdraw he called the Diván Efendí -and read the letter. “It is a pity,” said he, “that your Páshá did not -with such an army shut himself up at Angora; he might have played the -devil there, and by this glorious deed have hung his sword in the skies -(like that of Orion).” Rejoiced, however, at the number of our troops -he gave me an hundred zechins, a rosary of corals and a watch set -with jewels. I was also invested with a magnificent sable pelisse and -recommended as a guest to the Khazinedár. - -The same day news arrived that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and seven Vezírs -had taken post at the bridge of Osmánjik and the rocks of Sárimshik, -where they were entrenching themselves; and that Hossein the Páshá of -Amasia had closed the pass (Púl) of Diriklí and carried the population -away to the mountains. Upon this news Várvár Alí Páshá directed his -march straight to the passage of the Kizil Irmák. Our march was, from -Kiraz to Dánkaza seven hours, to Bardáklí-bábá seven hours and to the -river Kizil Irmák six hours. The passage of the river was effected in -the best order, without the least harm happening to any body. We halted -at Airak which lies north of the Kizil Irmák in the Sanjak of Kangrú; -it has an hundred houses and a mosque. We here visited the tomb of -Mohammed Sháh Dedeh, who came with Hájí Begtásh from Khorassan to the -court of Bayazid I., a large hospitable convent of an hundred Dervishes -Begtáshí. I witnessed the Páshá perform his visit to the tomb with a -devotion and a faith outshining that of many preachers from the pulpit. -The tomb is surrounded with censers, vases for rose-water, lamps and -candelabra. Every year the Sheikh of this convent kills a horse and -abandons the carcase to the eagles and vultures of the rocks, who -live upon it till the next year. The Sheikh has bred eagles instead -of falcons for hawking beasts of all kind. From hence we marched -for three hours along the bank of the Kizil Irmák to the village of -Tordúk, in the territory of Kánghrí. At the convent of Hassám Efendí -a great repast was given to the Páshá. Three hours further on we -came to the convent of Kúm-bábá, and then we entered the Keskin of -the Turcomans in the land of Kánghrí. Having overran it for ten days -we halted on the eleventh at the village of Sálí. I perceived that -the army was preparing for battle and learned that spies had brought -the news, that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who had been named commander -against Várvár, was ready to give him battle on the following day. The -troops having armed during the night, the Páshá put himself in the -morning at the head of six thousand men of light troops, and pushed on -for seven hours towards the kiblah. Here the two armies engaged and -that of Koprilí was entirely routed; a great number were killed and -the rest dispersed or made prisoners. Amongst the last was Mohammed -Koprilí Páshá himself, the Páshá of Amasia, Kor Hossein, and the Páshá -of Kara Shehr, both of two tails, who were obliged to walk on foot -with chains on their feet and blocks on their necks, along with the -tails of Várvár. Such is the state of the world, that these great -and powerful men were now in the power of the Sárija and Segbán, who -tortured and killed their men before their eyes and the executioners -flung their swords over their necks. In brief a Vezír (Koprilí) and -five Begler-begs were bound to the poles of Várvár’s tent, who elated -with this victory declared now more than ever open rebellion, collected -all kinds of rabble, wrote letters to Begs and Begler-begs enforcing -them to come and join him with their troops, and in fact collected -an army of thirty-seven thousand men. When we arrived at the village -of Búzoghlán, in the Sanjak of Kanghrú, I waited on him wishing him -joy of his victory, and begging he would despatch me with the letters -expected. I endeavoured to persuade him to be mild and merciful, and -to pardon and set at liberty his prisoners, according to the text, “O -God! Thou art all-pardoning, Thou likest pardon, pardon me.” He however -remained obstinate, saying, I should see in a few days what would -happen when his friends little Chaúsh Páshá, Ipshír Páshá and Shehsuvár -Oghlí Páshá should arrive to join him. He was an open frank man, but -extremely simple and of little judgment, and therefore blindly believed -in the assurances of these Páshás; and being overjoyed with the news -he had received from them, he despatched me with letters to my master, -presenting me with an hundred piastres, a completely caparisoned horse -from Koprilí’s stable, and a complete dress. - -From Yúz Oghlán in the Sanjak of Kánghru I rode for three days trusting -in God, left Angora on my right and met with the Páshá on the plain -of Múrtát. The Páshá hearing of Várvár’s blind confidence glowed with -anger and said, “He shall see it, the blockhead (Potúr).” He then -gave me Ipshír Páshá’s letter, which he had sent him to read, and I -saw it was full of flattery and deceit. The Páshá was about to answer -this letter, when a Khassekí and Kapijí-bashí arrived with Kiátib -Alí Chelebí, the Khazinedár of Seyavúsh Aghá Kiátib Alí Chelebí. The -Imperial rescript was instantly read, and contained the most positive -orders to join till the first of Jemází-ul-akhir the united troops of -Ipshír, Chaúsh, Bákí, Ketgáj and Sídí Páshá against Várvár, whose head -or the Páshá’s was required. If he refused to comply all his property -was to be confiscated, and his children and relations killed; but -under the supposition of ready obedience the Governorship of Egypt -was conferred upon him. The Páshá made immediate obeisance, ordered -the tails to proceed, gave to the Khassekí a purse for the expenses -of the road, and recommended him as a guest to his kiaya. The next -day the Cháhnegír (head carver) of Várvár arrived from Constantinople -with a Khattí-sheríf of the following tenor: “My Lálá, (Governor) thy -fault is pardoned, but the rebellion of Defterdár Oghlí, who wished -to put himself in possession of Erzerúm and Angora, is evident. His -head or yours is demanded. If you send the first the Governorship of -Egypt is assured to you.” The Páshá remained dumb at the sight of this -Khattí-sheríf and instantly despatched me back with that which he had -received to Várvár. - - (_Here follows the relation of Várvár’s complete defeat by Ipshír - Páshá by whom he was ensnared; occupying three sheets of the - original._) - -Evliya at last, afraid for his head, waited on Ipshír Páshá and asked -for letters, that he might return as he came. “Here,” said Ipshír -showing Várvár’s dead body, “is the man from whom you may ask your -expedition.” Evliya begged to be spared as he was no rebel and no -Sanjak Beg. Ipshír Páshá laughed and said, “What art thou doing at thy -master’s; wert thou not previously with Melek Ahmed Páshá?” “By God,” -I, poor Evliya, answered, “I am the common servant and joint subject of -two Vezírs, whom I accompany alternately as they come into high offices -for the pleasure of travelling. Defterdár Zádeh must now be removed -from office at this place, and your Excellency is most likely to go -as Governor to Damascus or Baghdád, in which case I attach myself to -your service.” “No,” said Ipshír, “go and follow Melek Ahmed.” “Well,” -I, poor Evliya, replied, “there is no difference between you three. -Is not the mother of my present master the nearest relation of Melek -Páshá’s and your mother?” “Look here,” said the Páshá, “he reminds me -of my relationship with Mohammed Páshá, in order to become the mediator -of peace between us.” I got up, kissed his hand and begged he would -give me a letter to My Lord the Páshá, to give him some solace in the -present state of his affairs. He ordered me a tent, seventy secchins, a -horse (being an extremely avaricious and low born Abázá) and a letter, -with which I got under way. - -From Cherkesh (where Várvár’s defeat had happened) I rode for eight -hours to Dúlúshja, a village of an hundred and fifty houses with -gardens and a mosque; eight hours further to Mestibeg, a village of -an hundred houses, a ziámet; and nine hours further to the village of -Alí Zaím, a Súbashilik in the plain of Múrtát, a ziámet of an hundred -houses, where I met the Páshá, who had heard of the defeat of Várvár, -Kor Hossein, and Hájí Oghlí, but knew not as yet of their deaths, -which I related to him as it happened three days ago. The Páshá read -Ipshír’s letter, and hearing at the same time that Bákí Páshá had left -him and joined Ipshír’s camp, he became very melancholy and prepared -for attacking Ipshír, who from Cherkesh moved towards Karamania by -the side of Keskin. The Páshá followed him at three day’s distance, -took a great deal of booty of the baggages of Várvár, Koprilí and Kor -Hossein and arrived in three days at the river Sakaria. At the village -of Merja in the district of Begbazárí the Diván Efendí of Várvár Páshá -was overtaken with forty-three thousand zecchins and seven purses -of money. He confessed to ten thousand zecchins besides and a sum -deposited at Angora of forty purses of money, after which confession -his head was cut off, and sent to the Porte as being that of a rebel. -According to the assignation of Khalíl, the Divání Efendí, on Hassan -at Angora in whose hands the money was deposited, Alaja Atlí Aghá was -despatched with three hundred horsemen to take possession of it. We -marched along the bank of the Sakaria river to the village Shikenjí -Ahmed Aghá in the district of Ayásh, a village surrounded with gardens. -We passed the village of Istanos and after seven hours reached Erkeksú -at last arriving at Angora, where Atlí Aghá was lodged in the house of -Hassan, from whom he demanded the money deposited by the beheaded Diván -Efendí, and I lodged with my old friend Kedr-zádeh who returned to me -all my things and effects, which I had left in his hands. The next day -Hassan Chelebí was obliged to pay the sum mentioned by the beheaded -Diván Efendí and to accompany us in irons. My friend, Kedr-zádeh made -me a present of two pack-horses to facilitate the transport of my -things. We left Angora, passed as before through Istanos, then during -eight hours along the pass of Ayásh; Ayásh is a foundation belonging -to the two holy cities of Mecca and Medina. It is a jurisdiction of -an hundred and fifty aspers, and contains a thousand houses and ten -mosques; the castle is in ruins, but there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí; -the air is heavy because the ground is uneven. I here visited the tomb -of Emír-dedeh, and on the opposite side that of Sheikh Bokhara buried -under a cupola on the mountain. - - -_Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazári._ - -Dinár-hezár, the vezír of Yakúb Sháh of the Germián family, having -conquered this town gave it the name Germián-hezárí. Once a week there -is a famous market chiefly of goats-hair spun and woven. It is now the -Khass of the Muftí of Constantinople who appoints the Súbashí. The -judge, appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers, may easily collect -seven purses. There is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Dizdár and -garrison, the castle being too small to hold any. At the foot of it -lies the town distributed over two valleys, and divided into twenty -quarters. There are forty one mosques, three thousand and sixty seven -elegant houses, all of mortar, but the roofs of wood, a room for -reading the Korán, another for lectures on tradition, but no stone -built colleges as in other towns, and seventy schools. There are more -than seven hundred men and boys who know by heart the Korán, and the -Mohammedieh, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-eshráf; the inhabitants are for the -most part Ulemás. This being a Turkish town the people are chiefly -Oghúz, that is to say good men of the old Turkish simplicity. There -are seven Kháns, pleasant baths, six hundred shops in which precious -articles are found, but no bezestán of stone. On the bank of the -torrent, which flows through the butcheries, a market is held every -week; this torrent falls into the river, which runs below the town, -and with this river into the Sakaria. The roads are strewn with sand -and not paved. The young men are fine, and the girls very retired -and modest, but not pretty. The gardens of Beg-bazárí are numerous; -among its products is a particular melon much distinguished for its -sweetness; the inhabitants make of it a Zerdeh (dish) with cinnamon -and cloves, sweet as the Zerdeh which was first invented by Moavia; -there is also a large green pear four or five of which go to an occa. -Every year some thousand of them are sent in boxes to Constantinople as -presents, such sweet pears are found but in Persia in the town of Nessú -and are like the pears called Melje in the town of Bár. Black barley is -produced here, which must be given with caution to horses, and there is -a great quantity of rice. In the town is the tomb of Az-dedeh. - -We had remained here three days when letters arrived for the Páshá -from my uncles, Melek-zádeh and Abd-ur-rahím, giving notice of the -death of my father, and that all his goods remained in my step-mother’s -hands. They begged leave from the Páshá for me to make a journey to -Constantinople in order to arrange my affairs, after which I might -return to him. I received three letters from my relations with the same -news, which I showed to the Páshá, who showed me those he had received. -He gave me leave to go on condition I would come back again, called the -Kiaya and Khazinedár, gave me five hundred dollars, two horses, and -two slaves, a fine tent and three mules in addition to those which I -had received as a present from the late Várvár Alí Páshá. With seven -Mamlúks and eight servants attached to me, I took leave of the Páshá -and set out at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir in the year 1058 (1648) from -Begbazárí for Constantinople. - - -_Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople._ - -We marched nine hours to the north through cultivated villages and open -meadows to the village of Sárí-beg. Here a gigantic wall is seen, which -is said to have been moved by the miraculous power of Hají Begtásh, and -the spot is shown where he sat upon the wall. It has no foundation and -therefore it is evident it must have been moved hither. Seven hours -further is the village of Kostek-beg of an hundred houses in a ground -intersected by valleys. The inhabitants are free from all duties. At -the time of the rebellion of Kara Yazijí, Seid-ul-Arab, Kalender -Oghlí, Jennet Oghlí, Delí Hassan and Sejiáh Oghlí in the time of Ahmed -I. they assailed a great caraván here, which they plundered, killing -more than two thousand men. The road then remained blocked up for some -time, till Nassif Páshá built here a great khán and transported the -inhabitants hither. There is a mosque, a khán, an imáret and a bath. -The raisins of this place are celebrated for sour preserves. The khán -has no equal in the whole of Anatolia unless it be the Khán of Katífa -and Sa’asa’a in the neighbourhood of Damascus. The stable holds two -thousand horses, there is besides a stable for camels, and all the -buildings are covered with lead. Eight hours further to the north we -arrived at Nállí Khán, a small affranchised mussulman village of an -hundred houses in a valley, governed by a Mutevellí of Nassif Páshá. -This khán is also his foundation and is built like that of Kostek-beg -Khán, having an hundred and fifty chimneys with a kitchen like that -of Keikavús. Travellers receive each a loaf in a brass plate, a dish -of soup and a candle. In seven hours more we reached the village of -Turbelí Koilik, which in the harsh language of the Turks is pronounced -Torbalí Koiluk. Akshems-ud-dín is buried in this village. The castle, -built by the Greek Emperors, was conquered by Ghazí Osmán in the year -712 (1312). It has a Kiaya-yerí and Serdár but no Dizdár. This place is -surrounded on both sides by rocks from which the water of life flows -through fir-wood pipes. Though its inhabitants are Turks, it is yet a -sweet town of two thousand houses, all covered with fir-wood, eighteen -mosques and eight quarters. The houses are overhung by the chalk -cliffs, which from time to time fall down upon them, without doing -the least harm to men or mice. The number of the houses, immediately -overhung by the rocks, is two hundred, there is no college or house -of tradition but twenty schools for boys; in the market-place are -three kháns covered with brick, a bath, a good number of mills and -seventy-five shops in which saddle-bags and horse-cloths are sold. No -Jews can inhabit this place, because in it they die instantly. - - -_Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín._ - -He was born at Damascus and derives his genealogy from Abúbekr, which -was proved by the absence of one of the joints in his finger, because -all descendants from him are born with that defect. He had conversed -with Sheháb-ud-dín Sehrverdí, who is buried in the castle of Baghdád, -and at Angora with Hájí Bairám. He accompanied Mohammed II. to the -conquest of Constantinople, and foretold the day when the town would -be conquered. He and his whole family lie buried here. It was he who -discovered the tomb of Eyyúb and on whose admonition they dug on the -spot indicated by him. He composed many volumes of books and was in -medicine a second Lokman. His son Ahmed Chelebí is the author of -Yússúf and Zúleikha, one of the most renowned of poems in the Turkish -language, he did not accept of the directorship, which his father -intended for him and which after his death devolved on Sa’ad Allah, -another son of his, and who is buried near his father. Sheikh Núrallah -his third son went to Brússa to finish his studies and killed himself -accidentally, his pen-knife entering his stomach. Sheikh Chelebí -Emrillah did not follow his father’s manner of life, and died of the -gout; he composed an historical work. Sheikh Nasrollah his fifth son -travelled for seven years in Persia and is buried at Tabríz; the -Persians visit his tomb, and some erroneously believe him to be the -son of Shems Tabrízí who is buried in the town of Khúí, whither he -walked with his head cut off, carrying it in his hand. Sheikh Mohammed -Núrolhúda the son of Akshems-ud-dín; his father having touched his -mother’s womb when she was pregnant with him, she was immediately -delivered on the salute given to the child, which returned it saying, -“Esselám aleikum.” This ecstatic child (Mejzúb) when grown up could -discern in the mosque those who would go to heaven from those who would -go to hell. He is buried in the village of Evlek, which was given to -him by Sultán Mohammed. Sheikh Mohammed Hamdollah, the abovesaid second -son of Akshems-ud-dín, was also spoken to by his father when in his -mother’s womb. At eight years old he was already author of a Diván. -He composed Leíla and Mejnún, and Yússúf and Zúleikha, which has no -equal in the Turkish language. He died when sixty-six years old. Among -a great number of treatises he wrote one on physiognomy which is much -esteemed. His son Mohammed Chelebí was a great divine and in caligraphy -a second Yakút Mostea’assemí and Ibn Mokla. The tomb of Sheikh -Abd-ul-kádir, the son of Sa’ad Allah; he is buried outside that of his -ancestor. Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím one of Akshems-ud-dín’s followers, who -lived forty years after him; he is the author of the work Wahdet-námeh -(book of unity). - -We remained here one day and then travelled seven hours to the north -to Taráklí, built by the Greek Princes of Brússa and conquered by -Osmán. The judge is appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers; there -are fifteen hundred houses in a valley all covered with brick, eleven -mihrábs, seven quarters, a bath, five kháns, six schools and two -hundred shops; this town is called Taraklí because spoons and combs -(Tarak) are made here from the box-trees which cover the neighbouring -mountains. These spoons and combs are sent into Arabia and Persia. The -torrent which flows through the village falls into the river Hármen and -with it into the sea. Eight hours to the north is the castle of Kíva, -properly Kekiva, a small castle for the sheep of a Greek Princess. It -is the foundation consecrated to the famous bridge of Sultán Bayazíd -II. here built over the Sakaria. It was formerly a large town, but -ruined in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. by the inundation of the -Sakaria, it consisted of three hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, three -kháns, and seven schools for boys. It is now situated at an arrow’s -shot distance from the river, and has a large khán covered with brick -and twenty shops near it. The sour preserve of raisins and the melons -of the district are famous, two melons are a load for a horse. The -river Sakaria, which flows here under the bridge, comes from the town -of Beg-bazarí and falls into the Black Sea near Irva. In this place -reside a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí and Mutevellí, or administrator of the -Wakf. Burhán, a companion of Osmán I. is buried here. We passed the -bridge and to the north along the banks of Sakaria through the great -forest, called Agháj-denizí (the sea of trees), a den of wild beasts -and robbers, where many strangers have been lost. The trees are high -firs and linden, which intercept the rays of the sun, and perfume the -brain with their sweet scent. - -These mountains are inhabited by some thousand unmerciful Turks, who -live by cutting wood and loading it in ships, and sometimes by cutting -passengers and unloading caravans. This forest extends through four -Sanjaks, viz: Brússa, Ismíd, and Bolí, and a month is necessary to make -the tour of it. In some places it is cut through like the road to Kíva. -Three hours from Kíva we came to the castle of the shepherds (Chobán -Kala’assí), a small castle towering to the skies. It is here that the -shepherds of Princess Kekeva dwelled and took toll from those who -passed; the passage being straightened between the mountains and the -river Sakaria, they obliged every body to pay. We passed through it and -continuing our way to the West along the bank of the Sakaria for seven -hours we reached Sabánja, a cultivated place which has been already -described on the way to Erzerúm. From hence we came to Nicomedia, also -described in the journey to Erzerúm. We passed Herke, Gebize, the tomb -of Gemiklí, Alí-bábá, Pendík, Kartál, the bridge of the Bostánji-bashí, -and Kádíkoí, and arrived at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir, 1058 (1648), -in the great town of Scutarí, and at last, praise be to God! at -Constantinople, with all my baggage. I kissed the hand of my mother and -the eyes of my sisters, then mounted again on horseback to fulfil my -vow by visiting the tomb of Eyyúb, where I immolated and distributed -a victim, and returned home. In a dream I saw my father who wished -me joy on my happy arrival and on my visit to the tomb of Er-Sultán. -Having thrice said the Súra-et-tekátherí, I awoke and took a boat -to visit the tomb of my father behind the arsenal, and my ancestors -buried there since the time of Mohammed II, thrice said the above -Súra, then returned home, took possession of my father’s heritage, and -made a vow to consecrate two thousand zechins of it to the pilgrimage -of Mecca; visited all my friends and acquaintances, and enjoyed with -them the pleasures of conversation, when the great rebellion of the -troops began on the eighteenth of Rejeb, 1058, and terminated in the -dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím and the accession of his son Mohammed IV. - - (_Here follows the account of the dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím, - which is nearly the same as has been given, in the first volume, under - this Sultán’s reign, and is therefore omitted here._) - -Evliya then relates how his master Mohammed Defterdár Zádeh came to -Constantinople, and after a lively contest with Koja Mevleví, the -grand vezír, obtained from him the nomination to the Governorship of -Malatia, begging he would grant it him with the Kharáj (tribute), -Awáriz (accidental duties) and the Mohassillik or collectorship, which -was done. Evliya waited on him and with great difficulty obtained -permission to go on the pilgrimage to Mecca. He then remained sometime -at Constantinople, and attached himself to Silehdár Murteza Páshá, as -Múezzin-báshí (chief proclaimer of prayer), he was also named Imám -of the Mahmel (the Sultán’s annual present to Mecca), and went from -Constantinople to Scutarí in the first days of the month Sha’abán, -setting out with Murteza Páshá for the journey to Damascus. The Páshá’s -Imám being an Arab whom Murteza disliked, the Arab performed prayers -outside, and Evliya inside the Páshá’s tent and was continually in the -Páshá’s company. During the time they remained at Scutari, the famous -robber Hyder Oghlí, in whose hands Evliya had fallen when he lost his -way in the pass as before related, was brought in by Hassan Aghá, and -hanged at Parmak-kapú (finger-gate). The same night as the execution of -the robber, Evliya slept in his paternal home at Constantinople, then -took leave of his friends and relations and passed over to Scutarí, -where he visited Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí, and Saint Karají Ahmed and -the tombs of all the great men in the burying ground, calling their -spirits to his assistance in the Syrian voyage, which he was about to -undertake. - - Amen, by the grace of the Lord of Apostles. - - - END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - -There are many variations in the spelling, hyphenation and accents of -proper names and other non-English terms. Except in cases where there is an -obvious dominant spelling and a variant that may legitimately be seen -as a typographical error, these remain unchanged. - -Italics are represented thus _italic_. - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, -and Africa, in the Seventeenth Centur, by Evliya Çelebi and Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 54255-0.txt or 54255-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/2/5/54255/ - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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