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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2770125 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #54255 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/54255) diff --git a/old/54255-0.txt b/old/54255-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 93bf0ae..0000000 --- a/old/54255-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12081 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and -Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Volum, by Evliya Çelebi and Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Volume II, by Evliya, Çelebi, 1611?-1682? - -Author: Evliya Çelebi - Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -Release Date: February 28, 2017 [EBook #54255] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS - - IN - - EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, - - IN - - THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY, - - BY - - EVLIYA EFENDI. - - TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH - - BY - - THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER, - F.M.R.A.S., &c. &c. &c. - - VOL. II. - - [Illustration: Colophon] - - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND - OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; - - SOLD BY - WILLIAM H. ALLEN & CO. LEADENHALL STREET. - - M.DCCC.L. - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - Page - - JOURNEY TO BRUSSA. - - Description of the Town and Fortress of Modania 2 - - Description of the Buildings of Brússa 4 - - The Public Officers of Brússa ib. - - Description of the Imperial and other Mosques 6 - - The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán - Murád I. 7 - - The Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I. ib. - - The Mosque of Mohammed I. ib. - - The Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. ib. - - The Mosque of Emír Sultán 8 - - The Colleges of Brússa ib. - - The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, - Mills, and Sebíls of Brússa ib. - - Praise of the Baths of Brússa 10 - - Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh - Sultán ib. - - Description of the sulphurous hot spring - (Gogurdlí Kaplíjeh) 11 - - Description of New Kaplíjeh ib. - - Description of the Market of Brússa 12 - - Description of the bridge of Erghándí 13 - - Description of the Walks and pleasure-places - of Brússa 14 - - A Dissertation on Mountains 15 - - Description of the Ice-worm 16 - - Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the - Inhabitants of Brússa 17 - - The Climate of Brússa ib. - - The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa ib. - - Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the - first Ottoman Sultáns 18 - - Short account of the Conquests of Osmán - Khán 19 - - Conquests of Sultán Orkhán ib. - - Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb ib. - - Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the Great Saint ib. - - Short account of Sultan Murád I. 21 - - Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár ib. - - Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd ib. - - Short account of Sultán Mohammed I. 22 - - Short account of the reign of Murád II. ib. - - Tombs of Ottoman Princes 23 - - Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa 24 - - - JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA. - - Qualities of a Mineral Spring 30 - - Pilgrimages of Nicomedia 33 - - - JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE. - - Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope 36 - - Description of the Castle of Samsún 39 - - Description of the Castle of Onia 40 - - Description of the Town and Ancient Fortress - of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians 41 - - Begs of Abaza Tribes 43 - - The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of - Trebisonde ib. - - Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde 44 - - Form and size of the Town, and description - of its Monuments ib. - - Description of the Lower Castle ib. - - Description of the Mosques 45 - - Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, - Market-places, &c. 46 - - Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants - of Trebisonde 47 - - Occupations, Guilds, &c. ib. - - Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts 48 - - Eatables and Beverages ib. - - Walks of Trebisonde 49 - - Praise of the River Kosh-oghlán 50 - - Visit to the Monuments of Sultans and Saints ib. - - - JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA. - - Description of Mingrelia 51 - - - JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV.) - - Description of the Land of Abáza 52 - - Specimen of the Abáza Language 58 - - Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza ib. - - - JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA. - - Description of the Castle of Baliklava 67 - - Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán 70 - - Return to Constantinople 73 - - - EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE - YEAR 1055 (1645). - - Station of Gallipolis 78 - - Siege of the Fortress of Canea 79 - - Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá 83 - - - JOURNEY TO ERZERUM. - - Gebize 89 - - Praise of the Lake of Sabánja 91 - - The Station of Khandak-bazárí 92 - - Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí 93 - - Pilgrimage to Habíb Karamání 94 - - Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint - Koyún Bábá 96 - - Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh 97 - - Form and Size of Amasia 98 - - Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c. 100 - - Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs 101 - - The Town and Castle of Nígíssár 102 - - The Hot-Spring of Nígíssár 103 - - Pilgrimages of Nígíssár 104 - - The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm ib. - - Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún 107 - - Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm 108 - - Description of the great river Euphrates 110 - - Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of - Erzerúm 111 - - Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm ib. - - Of the Mosques ib. - - Fountains 112 - - Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and - Markets 113 - - Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c. ib. - - Genealogies of Erzerúm ib. - - Description of Mount Egerlí 115 - - Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr ib. - - Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní 116 - - Stations of our Military expedition to the - Castle of Shúshík 117 - - Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan 118 - - Description of the Hot-baths 119 - - Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis 120 - - Description of the Hot-bath 120 - - Description of the Castle of Shúshek or - Shúshík 121 - - Size and form of Magú 122 - - Description of our journey along the Aras to - Persia 123 - - Curiosities of Uch Kilisse 125 - - Pilgrimage of Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb ib. - - - JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ. - - Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein - Bikara 129 - - Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the - ancient town of Tabríz 133 - - Description of the Mosques of Tabríz 134 - - Colleges of Tabríz 135 - - Praise of the Air and Climate 136 - - Account of the Persian Crown (Táj) ib. - - Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, - Beverages, Gardens, &c. 137 - - Account of a curious conversation 139 - - General Praise of Tabríz 140 - - Bad and reprehensible things in Irán 141 - - Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz 142 - - Description of the Expedition we undertook - with the Khán to Shám Gházán 143 - - Description of Merághá 144 - - Description of Aján 145 - - Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl 147 - - - JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN. - - Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí 149 - - Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván) 150 - - Description of the important town of Genje 154 - - Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs ib. - - Description of the Castle of Shekí 156 - - Account of the Tribe of Ettels 157 - - Pilgrimage of Ashár-bábá 158 - - Praise of Mount Caucasus ib. - - Description of the Town of Shamákhí 159 - - Description of the Fortress of Bakú 162 - - Description of our journey from Bakú through - Georgia 163 - - Description of a Whale with ears like an - Elephant 164 - - Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates 165 - - Size and figure of the Castle 166 - - Description of the Iron Gate ib. - - Buildings within the Castle 167 - - Pilgrimages 168 - - The Pilgrimage of the Forty ib. - - - JOURNEY TO GEORGIA. - - Description of the Castle of Serír-ul-Allán 169 - - Tomb of Emír Sultán 170 - - Description of the old town of Kákht ib. - - Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz.: - Betlís 171 - - Size and Figure of the Fortress 172 - - Products ib. - - The Hot-baths of Tiflís ib. - - Description of the Castle of Kúsekht 173 - - Description of Súrán ib. - - Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language ib. - - Genealogy of the Georgian Kings 173 - - Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, - Sultán Selím’s conquest 174 - - Khas or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs 175 - - Number of Ziámets and Timárs ib. - - Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka 176 - - Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province - of Chaldir 177 - - Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm 178 - - Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán ib. - - - JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR - 1057 (1647). - - Journeys on our return 185 - - - JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, - TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A. - - Form and size of the Castle 188 - - Description of the River Jorúgh 189 - - Pilgrimages ib. - - Description of the Castle of Tortúm 190 - - Size and Shape of the Castle 191 - - Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia 195 - - Of the Language of the Mingrelians 197 - - Moral Reflections 198 - - Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople - in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 - (1647) 199 - - Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh ib. - - Description of the Castle of Kumákh 201 - - Description of the Castle of Erzenján 202 - - Praise of the Eatables and Beverages 204 - - Pilgrimages ib. - - Description of the strong Castle of Shín or - Shábín Kara-hissár 205 - - Description of a Lion 207 - - Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum 208 - - Description of the Castle of Ládík 209 - - The Walks of Ládík 210 - - The warm baths of Ládík 211 - - Description of the Lake of Ládík ib. - - Pilgrimages of Ládík 212 - - Description of Merzifún ib. - - Description of the Baths 213 - - Praise of Pírdedeh ib. - - Products 215 - - Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún ib. - - Journey from Merzifún to Koprí 216 - - Description of the old town and great bridge - of Koprí 217 - - Description of the town of Gumish 220 - - Praise of Sheikh Bárdákli-bábá 225 - - Form of the Castle 227 - - The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán ib. - - Description of Angora 229 - - Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint 231 - - The Eatables and Products ib. - - Pilgrimages 233 - - Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or - Bebek-bazárí 239 - - Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople 240 - - Description of the tomb of the great Saint - Akshems-ud-dín 241 - - - - -NOTES. - - -_Note 1, p. 16._—_It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top._ - -The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the journey -having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the company -of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the Prussian -Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places the time -necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of the length -and difficulty of the road. - - -_Note 2, p. 197._—_The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the -Istikbál (solemn meeting.)_ - -See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ: -“At two o’Clock we came to Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small -fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were waiting our -passage. (In the Journey this is the first notice of the _Istakball_, -which so frequently recurs in the future progress of the mission, as an -honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distinguished traveller, -and to conduct him in his passage.) They were all armed with pikes, -matchlocks, swords, and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. -They then advanced to us and being announced by the _Arz-Beg_, wished -us a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility -“_Khosh amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded our party was -headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all -in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with -his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village -performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase -the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us, -until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army -who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon: these also fired their -muskets.” - - -_Note 3, p. 211._—_The river Khalliz._ - -This was no doubt originally called _Halys_, which seems to have -formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil -Irmák. - - - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. - - - - - THE - - TRAVELS - - OF - - EVLIYA EFENDI. - - -JOURNEY TO BRUSSA. - - -Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii -to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels -and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses -and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals; -the moon and the radiant sun: greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet, -who by his family accomplished his divine mission! Praise be to the -Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and destined me to -obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, alms -and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly -servant Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the -pilgrimage, first tried my strength by commencing, in the month of -Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot through the environs and quarters of -Constantinople; the account of which is contained in the first volume -of these travels. My ardent wish was to see Jerusalem and Baghdád, -Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to my dream related -in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when the -prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue, -said to him, instead of the usual form, _Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah_ -(Intercession, O envoy of God) _Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah_ (Travelling, O -envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, granted my wish. - -“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.” -Thus ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my -friend Okjí Zádeh Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a -journey to Brússa. He invited me to be his companion according to the -maxim, “First the companion, then the road;” and said, “Let us spend -a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments at Brússa: the -tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great Saint -Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this -proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all -present responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey. - -For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out -on this journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in -a boat of Modania, leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of -my birth, with the intention of seeing other towns and villages. The -present volume gives an account of this journey, which I undertook in -consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel therein safely day and -night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for according to -the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We -weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí -to take on board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the -morning on the first Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen -finding the time favourable for sailing, unfurled the sails and -weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the ship’s head towards -Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in high -spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy -voyage by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to -accompany them in their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile, -I fixed on the measure girdánieh, and sung three tetrasticks and one -sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. Several of the -boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such effect, -that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst -these amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands), -eighteen miles distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference; -it contains a famous Convent which is visited every year by many boats -from Constantinople. The inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains -and masters of ships. The public officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of -Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. From hence we -weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves with -a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five -hours’ sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania. - - -_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania._ - -It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first -enabled to perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion, -and then went forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and -forms a safe harbour, being closed against the wind from seven points -and open only to the North. The anchorage is excellent. At the head -of the harbour stands the custom-house, the lease of which amounts to -a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore, on a low rocky -ground. Prince Orkhán, with his father Osmán’s permission, conquered -this town in the year 721 (1321) and destroyed the walls in several -places, that it might no longer afford shelter to the infidels. It -is governed by a Voivode, subordinate to Brússa, the chief seat of -the Sanjak of Khodávendkiár. The judge is appointed with one hundred -and fifty aspers a day. His annual revenue amounts to two thousand -piastres. This appointment is sometimes given to the Mollá of Brússa -as Páshmáklik (pin-money). The houses are all faced with brick. There -are three mosques (jámí) and seven mesjids, three kháns, one bath, -two schools for boys, and two hundred small streets; but no room for -reading the Korán or tradition, because the greater number of the -inhabitants are Greeks. There are fine gardens producing superior figs -and grapes. From the excellence of its vinegar, it has acquired the -name of Dárkhill (vinegar-house). South-east of the town we passed on -horseback continuously through gardens and the cultivated field called -Filehdár. The river Nílúfer, not fordable in the beginning of spring, -is a clear stream, which issuing from the mountains Rúhbán, Ketelí and -Castel, waters the valley of Fillehdár and disembogues into the White -Sea. The main road crosses it over a handsome bridge, each arch of -which resembles the arch of heaven; its name, as well as that of the -river, was received from its builder the Princess Nílúfer, daughter -of a Sultán (Orkhán): after continuing our journey among gardens and -vineyards for two hours, we reached the town of Brússa, the emporium of -silk, the ancient capital of this country (Bithynia). - -The town of Brússa having been built towards the North on natural -rocks has no ditch, but on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) -and the quarter of the Mills, it has a deep one, which at the time -of the Asiatic rebellions of Kará Yazijí, Kallender and Sa’íd Arab -was filled up. Some of the stones of the walls are of the size of the -cupola of a bath, and some bear Greek inscriptions on them. The town is -protected against southerly and easterly winds from its being situated -at the foot of Mount Olympus. The houses have a northern aspect and -look over the plain of Filehdár. The fortress, the circumference -of which is eleven thousand paces, has six thousand battlements, -sixty-seven towers, and four gates, viz. the gate of the head fountain, -the prison-gate, the hot-baths’-gate to the west, and the gate of -the fishmarket. This stronghold was besieged more than once by the -Seljúkians, who came with an army of twenty thousand men; the siege -lasted between seven and eight months, the besiegers retiring only -on the approach of winter. Osmán the founder of the Ottoman dynasty -besieged it three times, but was compelled on the last occasion by an -attack of the gout to retire to Iconium. He sent his son Orkhán with -Sheikh Hájí Begtásh, who renewed the siege, and built two great towers, -one at the side of the hot-baths (Kaplijah), and the other on the -side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí), which took seven months to -complete. Orkhán posted himself at the hot-bath, his nephew Timúr-beg, -at the head-fountain, and Yalabánjik-beg at the mountain’s side. It -surrendered in 722 (1322) after a year’s siege, and Osmán died at the -moment he received the news. Orkhán his successor entered Brússa with -Hájí Begtásh, there fixed his residence, and buried his father’s body -in the castle. Osmán conquered seventy towns during the lifetime of -his father Ertoghrúl. His first conquest was in Kojá-Ilí by Akcheh -Kojá. Near Nicæa at the castle of Wáilakabád, he begat his son Orkhán -on Sheikh Edebáli’s daughter, who was related to the prophet, so that -the Ottoman Sultáns are Seyyids or Sherífs on the mother’s side. Sheikh -Túrsún their first divine was a relation of Sheikh Edebáli, and said -the first prayer from the pulpit in Sultán Osmán’s name. Brússa soon -became populated by mussulman colonists from all quarters. - - -_Description of the Buildings of Brússa._ - -The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many -high palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many -mosques, one bath and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is -one hundred and ten feet square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán -Orkhán lies buried here, and the large drum called Orkhán’s drum is -suspended in this mosque; it was used during Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The -palace in the castle was the residence of the early Ottoman Emperors -to the time of Mohammed II., who removed to Constantinople; Sultán -Murád I. having previously resided at Adrianople. Since Brússa has had -its own Bóstánjí-bashí (like Constantinople) the streets of the castle -are paved with large stones, and in some places stones are found with -inscriptions of the time of the Infidels, by which may be ascertained -how long the houses have been built; they are all built of stone, -faced with brick, and have a kind of sexangular chimneys to let out -the smoke, which look very well. In some places also grow cypress-nut -trees and vines, and from the elevation of the ground, the air is very -wholesome. - - -_The public Officers of Brússa._ - -The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with -a revenue of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty -fiefs called ziámet and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal -militia is commanded by an Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and -assemble at the Páshá’s command in time of war. The Páshá leads five -hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) is appointed with 500 -aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople and -Constantinople, it is a high office, valued annually at forty thousand -piastres. Seven Náíbs (deputies) in the town are subordinate to the -Mollá. The five other districts are those of Kíná, Fileh, Abolonia, -Castel, and Chokúrjeh. The civil officers are, a Chokádár of the -janissaries, a chamberlain (Kápújí-báshí); the commanding officer of -the janissaries, the colonel of the armourers (Jebejí), the officer -of the Sípáhís (Kiayá-yerí); the Muftí, the head of the Sherífs, the -inspector of the silk, of the custom-house, the Voivode of the town and -the provost, who all have power of life and death. - -The lower town was fortified in the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror -of Erla against the Anatolian rebels Kará Yazíjí, Kalender-oghlí, -Delí Hassán, and Jennet-oghlí, but it is not very strong; it extends -from East to West to the foot of Mount Olympus for the length of one -farsang and the breadth of half a farsang. The circuit is fifteen -hundred paces, the walls are not very high. There is but one ditch near -the gate of the Tátárs and no where else, and there is no need of it, -because if an enemy were to dig approaches, water would rush up in the -trenches. Guns and falconets are mounted on the towers, which are fired -on festivals; there is no other garrison than the doorkeepers, but -there are six thousand guards in the town. The gates are of iron and -above each are towers whence grenades and stones may be thrown on the -besiegers. The gate of the Tátárs opens to the East, that of Filehdár -to the North; and that of Hassan Páshá towards the Kiblah. There are -twenty-thousand large and small houses built in the ancient style; the -most conspicuous of all is the ancient residence of the Emperors, in -the upper town or fortress, it has three baths and three hundred rooms, -but no garden on account of the narrowness of the place. There are in -the whole town one hundred and sixty-six quarters of Moslims, seven of -Armenians, nine of Greeks, six of Jews, and one of Copts. The quarter -of the Meskins (Lepers) is a separate quarter leading to the road of -Sultán Murád. The upper part of the town with Mount Olympus rising in -the background is beautiful when seen from the plain of Filehdár, an -hour’s distance from it, and I can truly say that I have seen nothing -like it during my travels. Brússa is a very devout town, abounding with -Divines, expounders of the Korán and keepers of tradition, who are -found no where else so numerous, excepting at Baghdád. Mount Olympus -at the back of the town on the south side is a mine of living water, -no less than one thousand and sixty well-known springs flow from it, -and supply water in abundance to the palaces and houses. It abounds -also in all kinds of flowers, particularly in syringa (Erghiwán), the -annual assembly of Emír Sultán held in the season when the syringa is -in perfection being much celebrated. The inhabitants being fair, the -air good, the water full of holiness, contribute altogether, to render -Brússa one of the most delicious spots on earth. - - -_Description of the Imperial and other Mosques._ - -There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three -hundred and fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and -other great men. The first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by -Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated spot of Brússa, it is supported -within by large square pillars, the bases of which are gilt and painted -to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, _Yá Hannán_, “O all -gracious!” _Yá Mennán_, “O all merciful,” _Yá Diyán_, “O all faithful!” -_Yá Hassán_, “O all beautiful!” and other names of God. The letters -of these inscriptions are three cubits high; nineteen cupolas covered -with lead and crowned with golden crescents are supported by these -pillars. The twentieth cupola is placed on the centre of the mosque, -and is left open so that light and air may enter, but birds and animals -are shut out by a grating of brass wire. Directly beneath this cupola -is a round basin of water, wherein fish are swimming and whence the -Moslim community take the water necessary for their ablutions. The -pulpit made of black nut is skilfully carved and chiselled with flowers -and arabesques of all kinds. It must be absolutely seen, for it is so -wonderful that it cannot easily be described, and has no equal any -where except at Sinope on the Black Sea. The mahfil or place where -the Muëzzins repeat the proclamation of prayer, is painted with great -art. The mosque is lighted by glass windows on the four sides, and the -floor covered with carpets which are not found elsewhere because this -mosque is so richly endowed. It is nightly lighted by seven hundred -lamps, and is crowded with people at all hours, because no less than -seventy lectures are read here on scientific subjects to two thousand -scholars. The distance from one of the side-gates to the other is three -hundred and fifty feet, and from the Kiblah to the mihráb one hundred -and eighty feet; it has three gates. On the left side, the gate of the -Emperor’s oratory (mahfil), the gate of the Kiblah (opposite to the -mihráb), and on the right side, the gate of the Mehkemeh. Outside of -the Kiblah-gate is a stone bench; it has no great courtyard like other -mosques, but a small one, in the centre of which the Muftí Abdul-azíz -Efendí has built a basin with water-pipes. - -On the right and left are two high brick mináreh, and at that of the -Mehkemeh-gate is a fountain (_jet d’eau_), the water of which comes -from Mount Olympus, but it is now in ruins, the pipes having become -decayed by age. When it rains the water collects in the basin of this -fountain on the top of the Mináreh, and the birds flock hither to -drink. In short there is no more holy mosque than this in Brússa; it is -the Ayá Sofía of Brússa, and has therefore been described the first, -but the first consecrated in chronological order, was that of Orkhán in -the upper castle. - - -_The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I._ - -On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate -suburb called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a -peculiar style, because the architect was a Frank. The lower part is -devoted to worship, the upper devoted to science, is distributed into -rooms for students, so that each may follow the Imám’s directions at -prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one hundred feet, -and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a falcon, -which having been recalled by Sultán Murád I. and not obeying, was by -his curse changed into stone. This mosque has one gate, and a mináreh -one story high, but no courtyard. - - -_Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I._ - -It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by -fields and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance -from the town; it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in -width, in the old simple style, and remained unfinished during the war -of Timúr, but was completed by Mússa Ilderím’s son. - - -_The Mosque of Mohammed I._ - -This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret -(the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on -the East side of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one -hundred and eight feet long and eighty feet in width. It is impossible -to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) and minber (pulpit) because the -carving is beyond all conception; the only gate is also ornamented with -such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could not be represented -finer even by the pen on Chinese paper. The stone-cutter who worked -this gate, spent full three years on it, during which he received forty -thousand ducats from Mohammed I. as is generally reported; in short, -there is no mosque of more elegant and exquisite workmanship in the -world. The reason of its being named the green building, arises from -the cupola and the mináreh being covered with green fayence which -radiates like emeralds in sunshine. Tall plane trees surround the -outside. I saw no finer mosque in Brússa, and other travellers say no -where else. - - -_Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I._ - -On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this -mosque and its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The -builder was Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II. -who died at Adrianople and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and -has two cupolas. From the gate of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length -is one hundred and fifty feet, the width sixty. The (mihráb) altar, -(minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) are in the ancient -simple style, built in the year 850 (1446). Tall plane-trees adorn the -courtyard. Many Princes of the Ottoman family are buried here. - - -_The Mosque of Emír Sultán._ - -This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques -which I visited. - -On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a -small mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í, -its fine situation invites the people to pray there. The mosque of -Uftádí Efendí is in the inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques -(where Khutbeh is not said on Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd -Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, where I read the -Korán from beginning to end in one day, without interruption. Here -the Mollá Khosrew composed his famous book. At that time two hundred -lead-covered mosques and seven hundred minárehs might be seen from -Kází-yailá, a height half way up Mount Olympus. - - -_The Colleges of Brússa._ - -The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I., -Emír-sultán, Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín -Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, and Hamza-beg. - - -_The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa._ - -There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that -of Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a -place for the dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered -with lead, which stands on a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect -of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí Efendí, in the inner castle, of -Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán of the Begtáshís, men -fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open breasts, -wait upon the Moslims who frequent this delightful walk; it was built -by Orkhán and possesses more than a thousand kettles, pans, and copper -vessels; visitors perform their devotions here. That of Sheikh Kílí -near the camel-driver’s station, the dervishes are Begtáshís and very -poor, having no endowment, it was built by Sultán Orkhán. That of Abdál -Sultán Mússa built by the same. That of Ak-bi’ík Sultán of the order of -Begtásh. That of Abú Ishak Kasúlí who is buried at Erzerúm within the -gate of Tebríz. That of Gulshení; seventeen Convents of Khalvetís; nine -of Kadris; three of Nakshbendís; one of Rúfa’áïs; one of Kalenders, and -one of wrestlers. - -The Imárets (dining establishments for the poor) are those of Murád I. -Ilderím Báyazíd, Emír Sultán, and that of Mohammed I., called the green -one. - -There are one hundred and eight kháns; the principal one is the rice -khán, which has iron gates, a large stable, worthy of Antar, with two -hundred cells; the silk khán, of the same size, where the inspector -of the silk resides; the custom of the silk is let for three hundred -purses a year; the butter khán on the gate of which is suspended a -cask, which, being filled with búza, was once drank out by a single man -who had laid a bet that he would do it. There are also seventy kháns -called Mujerred Kháns for unmarried people. The cáravánseráï of Alí -Páshá was built by Sinán the famous architect, and has doorkeepers. - -The fountains of Brússa amount to the number of two thousand and sixty, -every one of which vies with the spring of life. The Muftí Azíz Efendí -himself built two hundred, his name appearing on all of them, with an -inscription begging for a fátihah from those who drink. Besides these -public fountains, each of the twenty-three thousand houses has its own -supply. From certain springs water-courses pass from house to house, -along the streets, and carry water to many basins, water-pipes, baths -and gardens. The town being built at the foot of Mount Olympus, and the -houses rising in rows one above the other, the water naturally flows -to them. There are seventeen fountains, from which this large quantity -of water is derived, the principal one is that called Búnár-báshí, -which rushes out of the rock in several places on Mount Olympus and -spreads itself over the town. The head fountains of Súnderlí, of Chatál -Kainak, of Kepíz, of Náshí Dersí, of Sobrán, of Arejlí, of Chárshú, -of Bellor Kainak, of Samánlí Kainak, the latter obtained the name of -straw-boiler, because it issues from Mount Olympus, flows for some -distance underground, and comes out again at another place, which is -proved by the re-appearance of straws that have been put into the upper -part of the stream; the Sheker Kainak (sugar-boiler); the Selám Kiassí -Kainaghí; the Királ Kainak (king’s boiler); the Murád-dedeh Kainaghí; -in short there are seventeen large fountains which yield the clearest -and coldest water; but the channels decaying in the course of time, the -keepers of the aqueducts, at night, throw horsedung into them, by which -the openings are obstructed and the purity of the water is spoiled; -they would not dare to do this in the day-time because they would be -punished for it by the public officers. - -The Water-mills are an hundred and seventy, which succeed one another -from the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) to the fish-market and all the way -down from Balabánjik; also in the valley of Eghzándí, at the tanners, -the quarter of the lepers, the foot of the Castle, the gate of Hassán -Páshá, &c. The establishments for distributing water (Sebíls) are six -hundred. Although here, as at Brússa, there is such abundance of water -that these establishments are superfluous, yet the generosity of the -Ottoman Sultáns provided them for the distribution of iced water in the -summer months. - - -_Praise of the Baths of Brússa._ - -The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond -all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím -Khán; the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the -bath of Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of -Ilderím, have all two rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three -thousand private baths in the palaces, some of which are also devoted -by the proprietors to public use. The hot-baths in Turkish are called -Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Maíhamím; in Persian, Germáb; in Rúmelí, Kainarjeh -(boiling); and at Brússa, Kaplíjeh (from [Greek: kapnos] smoke, which -hangs over these hot springs;) in the Mogolic language they are called -Kerensa, and in Europe, bagnio. These springs are impregnated with -sulphur from mines which they pass through underground, and when mixed -with cold water, are equally wholesome for bathing or drinking, but if -drank to excess, it is said, they cause the teeth to fall out. There -are many hundred hot springs at Brússa, which being neglected in the -time of the Infidels, were not covered. The hot-bath of old Kaplíjeh, -built by Murád I. has a great cupola covering a large basin ten feet -square, on the four sides of which are washing-tubs, with two retired -cabinets (Khalvetí), upon entering these the flesh feels soft as an -ear-lap and all uncleanliness is boiled as it were from the body. To -drink the water is a good remedy for palpitation and throbbing of the -heart; but a certain method is prescribed to those using the baths, -which if neglected brings on pleurisy. - -The following are the rules to be observed:—First, take a common -ablution at the edge of the basin, then wash the head with warm water, -throwing some over the body preparatory to walking into the bath, till -the whole body is covered, do not remain too long, and dress quickly -upon coming out, in order to avoid catching cold; this precaution is -necessary, and if neglected causes many ailments. The most powerful -of all the hot-baths of Brússa is that of Murád I. the dressing-place -being built in the old style is not cold. - - -_Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán._ - -The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers -who have been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and -bathe here forty days. Persons affected with this disease lose their -eyebrows and eyelashes, and their breath becomes infectious. God avert -it from us! There are for this reason separate quarters for the leprous -(Meskin) in all towns in Rúm. - - -_Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)_ - -It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it -is principally used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters -(Dellák) know how to treat people so affected. Those who can bear to -be rubbed by them in the private cabinets for half an hour, will see -within twenty-four hours a miraculous alteration; the skin peels off -in black scales, and the body appears white as silver. In short, the -suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists of -three hundred houses with gardens and hot springs, some for men, some -for women, some for children, and some for old men. The inhabitants of -Brússa, who are acquainted with their qualities, come here to stay a -fortnight with their relations, and use the baths. - - -_Description of New Kaplíjeh._ - -It stands near the town on a rocky place, and all the buildings are -covered with lead, like those of old Kaplíjeh. It was formerly a small -building, but Sultán Súleimán having been cured of the gout here, -he ordered his Vezír, Sárí Rostem Páshá, to build a large bath. The -travellers of Múltán, Balkh and Bokhara, say, that they have no where -seen a bath so magnificent as this. Its dressing-room is a vast place -covered with cupolas, capable of holding a thousand men; on its walls -is written in Ta’lík letters, a Turkish verse, saying; - - “In life on your apparel lay no stress - As every body must his body here undress.” - -In the centre of this dressing-room is a basin, and in the middle of -the basin a fountain. There are more than a hundred inspectors walking -round in high pattens, besides clean waiters (Dellák). The interior -basin (the bath itself) has a cupola which some say is one hundred -cubits high, it is covered with lead, and pierced with six hundred -glass windows; the basin is like a sea into which you descend by six -marble steps; at its four corners are figures of lions and dragons, -which spout the water from their mouths. In the cooling place (Súklik) -is a fountain (jet d’eau) which reaches to the top of the house. On -the side of the basin are eight large vaults, underneath each of them -is a bathing trough of stone, where those who perform their ablutions -can see those who swim in the basin. The floor of the whole bath is -paved with variegated marble, as though enamelled by goldsmiths. It -has two private cabinets (Khalvetí), in that on the right is a small -basin, the water of which is extremely warm, but when mixed with that -of a cold spring which is adjacent, a proper temperature is obtained. -Though this hotbath is not in such good repute as the former, yet it is -a pleasant place, where lovers delight with their beloved, especially -in the long winter nights; when these baths are lighted with candles, a -thousand tricks are played by the bathers, some diving, some swimming, -some wrestling in the water, some swelling their aprons into sails, -others spouting water from their mouths, some lying dead flat on the -water, others joining hands and imitating the cries of boatmen, “Tírá -Molá,” drive the water round like a whirlpool, which forces all those -who are in the water to follow the quick rotation of it. - -There is also a private hotbath, called Kainárjeh, which, with many -others, I did not see, because I was a stranger, and only setting out -on my travels. - - -_Description of the Market of Brússa._ - -There are nine thousand shops. The Bezestán is a large building with -four iron gates secured with iron chains; its cupola is supported by -strong columns. It contains three hundred shops (doláb) in each of -which merchants reside, who are as rich as the kings of Egypt. The -market of the goldsmiths is outside the bezestán, and separate from it; -the shops are all of stone. There are also the markets of the tailors, -cotton-beaters, capmakers, thread merchants, drapers, linen merchants, -cable merchants, and that called the market of the bride, where essence -of roses, musk, ambergris, &c. are sold. The brains of the passers by -are refreshed with the most delicious odours, and nobody is willing to -leave it on account of the fragrance of the perfumes and the politeness -of its merchants. These markets are established around the Bezestán, -and the shops are arranged in rows. In each corner is a fountain -supplying water out of two pipes. In the summer months the servants -sprinkle the ground with water, so that the whole market resembles a -serdáb or cooling place of Baghdád. The principal men of Brússa sit -here during the hottest hours of the day. According to the descriptions -of travellers there is no where to be found so pleasant a market place. -The market of Haleb and of Alí Páshá at Adrianople are famous, but -neither they, nor even those of Constantinople, are to be compared with -the markets of Brússa. The saddlers, and the long market are the most -crowded; and the one occupied by the sellers of roast meat near the -rice khán is very elegant. None of the provisions at Brússa are sold by -Infidels but all by true Moslims. The shops of the Sherbet-merchants -are adorned with all sorts of cups, and in the summer-time they put -flowers into the sherbet and also mix rosewater with it, which is not -the custom any where else. The fruit merchants ornament their shops -with branches bearing fruit. There are seventy-five coffee-houses -each capable of holding a thousand persons, which are frequented by -the most elegant and learned of the inhabitants; and three times -a day singers and dancers execute a musical concert in them like -those of Hossein Bikara. Their poets are so many Hassáns, and their -story-tellers (Meddáh) so many Abúl-ma’álí. The one most famous for -relating stories from the Hamzeh-námeh is Kúrbání Alí, and Sheríf -Chelebí enchanted his hearers by those he told from the Sháh-námeh. -Other story-tellers (Kissah Khán) were famous for reciting the tales -of Abú Moslem the hatchet-bearer, which may be compared to the memoirs -(Seir) of Weissi. All coffee-houses, and particularly those near the -great mosque, abound with men skilled in a thousand arts (Hezár-fenn) -dancing and pleasure continue the whole night, and in the morning every -body goes to the mosque. These coffee-houses became famous only since -those of Constantinople were closed by the express command of Sultán -Murád IV. There are also no less than ninety-seven Búza-houses, which -are not to be equalled in the world; they are wainscoted with fayence, -painted, each capable of accommodating one thousand men. In summer the -Búza is cooled in ice, like sherbet; the principal men of the town are -not ashamed to enter these Búza-houses, although abundance of youths, -dancers and singers, girt with Brússa girdles, here entice their lovers -to ruin. The roads are paved with large flint-stones, a kind of paving -not met with elsewhere; these stones are not the least worn by age, but -they are dangerous for horses, who stumble on them because they are so -hard and bright. - - -_Description of the bridge of Erghándí._ - -A market for weavers is established on both sides of the bridge of -Erghándí at Gokdereh (the valley of Olympus) the small windows of each -shop look on to the torrent of Gokdereh, which flows beneath. The shops -are covered with lead, and the bridge is shut in on two sides by iron -gates pierced with loopholes. A part of the bridge is reserved for the -use of strangers to fasten up their horses. There is no covered bridge -like this, either in Arabia, Persia or Turkey. The name of this bridge, -Erghándí, is derived from the word Erghalándí, which signifies, “it has -been shaken,” and to which the following tradition is attached:— - -In the time of Sultán Orkhán, a warrior, going early to the bath here, -heard a voice, saying, “Shall I come out or not?” The soldier being -a brave fellow, called out, “Come out,” adding a curse or two; when -out broke from the place whence the sound came, a rich treasure, with -great shaking and trembling of the earth (Erghálandí). The soldier, -upon seeing such a quantity of gold coins, went and related the story -to Orkhán, who advised him to spend in pious works, what Heaven had -thus granted him. He took the treasure to his home, paid a tenth of it -to the revenue, and then built this bridge, which took its name from -the circumstance. There are forty-eight large and small bridges in and -about Brússa. The streets and some of the markets are adorned with -festoons of grapes, which grow here in great plenty, and others with -tall plane-trees and willows. Brússa is truly a garden-town; the number -of gardens is said to be forty-seven thousand, all abundantly supplied -with water. - - -_Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa._ - -Of these there are no less than three hundred and sixty-five, so -that there is one for every day in the year. The finest is that of -Búnár-báshí, where if you eat roast meat and drink of the water, you -feel hungry again immediately; of such digestive power is the water: -a mosque adorns this famous walk. The walk of the Mevleví-kháneh, or -convent of Dervishes, built by Orkhán, where twice a week the Mevlevís -assemble for their religious dances (sima’á), and afterwards take their -pleasure in the fields. The walk of Abdál Murád Sultán is situate in a -valley high up on Mount Olympus, whence the finest view of Brússa is -obtained. The verdure is so luxuriant, that the earth seems covered -with green velvet. There are plane-trees, willows, cypresses and -box-trees, of an immense height, under the shade of which ten thousand -men may procure shelter. Swings are fastened with ropes to some of -these trees, where lovers and their beloved swing each other. There are -benches for company and benches for prayer; it is a most delightful -place, and extends as far as the eye can reach. The walk of Fissdíklí -is adorned with pine-trees, and is a secluded but very pleasant corner. -The walk of Karanfillí, on the way to Kaplíjah, is a resting-place. -The walk of Kaplí Kiaya is a fine spot without any buildings, and -surrounded by woods, and that of Abd-ul-múmen is above all praise. -Outside of the town, to the east, in a chesnut-wood, half an hour’s -distance from the foot of Mount Olympus, stands the fountain of A’ssá, -which is said to have rushed forth by a miracle, when the great Saint -Emír Sultán struck his staff (a’ssá) into the ground on this spot. The -chesnuts are grafted trees, each not weighing above forty drachms. The -walk of Sobrán is also adorned with chesnut-trees. The place of Ulumest -is a convent for the accommodation of strangers. The pleasure-place of -Kazí-yailá (the judge’s Alp) is situate half-way up Mount Olympus, and -is ascended from below in five hours. The Okmeïdán, or archery-ground, -is so pleasant a place, that it is beyond all description. The walk of -the Monks’ mountain (Olympus) obtained its name from its having been -the retreat of Greek Monks. - - -_A Dissertation on Mountains._ - -God created one hundred and forty-eight mountains, as locks of the -earth, which is held together by them when shaken by earthquakes; -this is hinted in the verses of the Korán, “His (God’s) are the keys -of the earth and Heaven;” and again, “and the mountains as pales”. -According to geographers there are in the first climate, nineteen; in -the second, twenty-seven; in the third, thirty-one; in the fourth, -twenty-four; in the fifth, twenty-nine; in the sixth, thirty-six; and -in the seventh, thirty-seven great mountains. The root of all mountains -is mount Káf, thus designated by the verse of the Korán, “Káf and the -glorious Korán;” it surrounds the earth and is reached by the Kalmúks -beyond the ice-sea; they call it in their language Yaldarák Ták. If -it pleases God, I shall describe it when I undertake that journey. -Since the time of Alexander none but the Kalmúks have seen Mount Káf, -they assemble every forty or fifty years to the number of seventy, -or eighty thousand, in order to visit it. The Caucasus (Kúh-al-burz) -faces the desert of Tartary called Heihát, the great mountain of -Germany (Riesengeburg), and the mountain of the moon twenty farsangs -beyond the equator, where the Nile originates. Mount Olympus was the -first of these mountains which I ascended with a goodly company; we -took litters, tents and all necessary preparations with us, and set -out from Búnár-báshí ascending during five hours. The first height, -Ghází Yailá, is so called because the Moslim victors (Ghází) had a -station here during the siege of Brússa, which lasted a whole year. -It is a pleasant spot with meadows and chesnut-trees, a small rivulet -running through it is full of trout. From this place a full view of the -town of Brússa is obtained. Five hours further on is the table-land -called Sobrán Yailássí, a large plain with chesnut-woods; trout are -also found in the lakes of it; we took a great many of them, and ate -them fried with fresh butter; each fish seemed like one of the dishes -Jesus multiplied amongst the people (six thousand men). Some hundred -thousand sheep graze here, descended from the forty thousand sheep of -Sultán Osmán: the shepherds are Turks, they brought us some sheep as -a present, which we immediately roasted, and passed the night in the -open air. Next day we mounted again in a south-east direction (Kibláh) -the road lined with hyacinths, roses, basilicon, and other flowers, -the scent of which perfumed our brains. We refreshed ourselves with -water from the living spring, and came after three hour’s travelling to -the place called Menzíl Bakajak, where we halted three days and three -nights in the woods, delighting in fresh fish and roasted sheep. This -place is called Bakajak, or look-out, because from hence on the nights -previous to Ramazán they watch for the new moon, and, as soon as they -see it, light a fire to give notice to the town, where the guns are -fired to announce the commencement of the fast. This look-out is on -the top of an isolated rock, which stretches towards the town like an -elephant’s proboscis and hangs over so deep a precipice that nobody -dares look down. From it the plain Filehdár, with all its villages, -fields, and cultivated grounds appear, like a picture on paper. It is -so steep and prominent that the great mosque, the castle and bezestán -of Brússa seem as it were sinking into the base of the mountain, and -from the summit cannot be seen at all. Rocks towering to the sky take -the appearance here of many strange shapes, such as dragons, elephants -and eagles. We mounted still further in the direction of the Kiblah -through flowery meadows, where no tall trees were to be seen, and after -five hours came to the station of Sultán Suleïmán’s fountain-head. A -delightful spot with a spring of water so cold that a man cannot take -out of it three stones in succession. There is here a large mass of -rock the size of the cupola of a bath, which vibrates on being touched, -and also many rivulets containing trout of one or two becas each. These -rivulets and brooks being frozen in the winter, the head ice-man, -(Kárjí-báshí) sends two or three hundred persons to cut the ice, which, -transparent as crystal and brilliant as diamonds, is used in summer to -cool their sherbet by the inhabitants of Constantinople and Brússa. -Some hundred ass-loads are every day embarked at Modania for the use of -the coffee-houses, Imperial kitchens, and the Imperial Harím; for the -Vezírs, the Kází-askers, and the Muftis. - - -_Description of the Ice-worm._ - -This is a worm, which is found in the midst of ice and snow as old as -the creation, but is difficult to find; it has forty feet, and forty -black spots on its back, with two eyes as red as rubies, all ice, -without a tongue, and its interior filled with an icy fluid; it shines -like a diamond but melts quickly away, because it is all ice. In size, -it is like those cucumbers which are sold for seed at Lángabestán, -sometimes larger, sometimes smaller. The ice-worm I brought to Sultán -Ibrahím was smaller than a cucumber. It is an aphrodisiac, sharpens the -sight, and makes a man as healthy and vigorous as a new-born child. It -is rarely found, and falls but to the lot of kings! It is said that on -the Caucasus they are of the size of dogs, with four feet, living and -walking among the ice and snow. Faith be upon the teller! I have not -seen them. - -Above the station of Súleimán vegetation ceases and the mountain is -barren. Kulleí Jehán, the tower of the world, is on the topmost peak of -the monk’s mountain (Olympus) whence beneath your feet the clouds may -be seen passing over the town. It is a journey of two days from Brússa -to the top; being so very high it is entirely barren; the mountains -of Cútahía are seen from the south side; the mountains of Sogúd from -the East, and from the west side the mountains of Galipolis, beyond -the White Sea. The summits of the Seven Towers and of the Minárehs -of Sultán Ahmed, may be discerned from hence when the sun shines on -Constantinople. From its height, it is so much exposed to the wind, -that if men did not cling to, or shelter themselves behind, the rocks, -the wind would blow them away like cotton. On the highest spot is a -burying place, the four sides composed of immense stones; it is the -tomb of Sa’dán the son of Landha, who is said to have taken refuge here -from fear of Hamzah. Near it is a deep dark cave which leads to seventy -or eighty small cells, where Monks resided in the time of the Byzantine -Empire; on some of them are inscriptions in Greek and Latin, two -thousand years old. People who come to the top also write their names -in this place. We again mounted our horses and came after ten hours -ride, ascending and descending, to the Victor’s height, Ghází Yailá, -from whence, after another ride of ten hours, we arrived at Brússa. - - -_Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa._ - -There are many thousand rich merchants and learned divines who dress -in sable pelisses. Being in Asia, the language is related to the -Turkish, hence they say Ahmed Chepú instead of Ahmed Chelebí; Memet -Chepú instead of Mohammed Chelebí; Assmíl instead of Ismaíl; Jafár -instead of Ja’fer, besides some words and expressions entirely unknown; -young men of the town however speak with great purity. Their principal -occupation is the cultivation of silk, the manufacture of velvets and -other stuffs of Brússa called Sereng and Chátma, it is also famed for -the manufacture of cushions for sofas. - - -_The Climate of Brússa._ - -The longest day is fifteen hours: the inhabitants are fresh-coloured -on account of the healthy air, but as Mount Olympus intercepts the -southerly winds, the air is dull and heavy when they blow. The -youth are numerous and have been celebrated in many a town-revolt -(Shehrengíz). The women are exquisite beauties, with well-arranged -teeth, and well-arranged words; their hair curled and dressed in -tresses is celebrated in the poetical expression Kessúí merghúleh. -The men attain a very old age; in short the pleasant advantages which -this town affords are not to be met with elsewhere. The people are of -a graceful stature, silver bodies, cautious, and so eloquent that when -they speak they never fail to produce the greatest effect on their -hearers. - - -_The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa._ - -The first is white bread of the kind called Súmún, which is as good as -the best of Constantinople; then that sort of bread called Chákil, -like white roses; the Gozlemeh, the Kerdeh, a kind of roast mutton -dressed over a stove (Tennúr). The sheep which are very fat come from -Mount Olympus. The white Halvá of Brússa is also celebrated. - -The beverages are the delicious water of the head fountain Búnár-báshí -and seventeen other principal springs; excellent coffee from Yemen, -very good búza, the sherbet Khanedán-beg (smiling Prince), that of -Tírelí-oghlí, Karan-fillí and Shujáb. - -The fruits are forty-day pears, exquisite grapes, apricots, cherries, -and chesnuts famous all over the world. These chesnuts, weighing forty -drachms each, are put on spits with the meat, the juice of which -penetrates them; they grow so succulent that it is almost impossible -to leave off eating them till one dies. The seven day mulberries are -also famous. The plain of Filehdár is laid out in mulberry plantations, -because the chief product of Brússa is silk, which is said not to be -equalled by the Persian silk of Shirwán. - -The manufactures are those of ruby-coloured velvet, like that made at -Genoa, Brússa linen of different colours, aprons called Kirk-kalem, -purses of silk, silken nets, and finally cushions of cut velvet called -Chátma munakkash katífeh. - - -_Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns._ - -The Seljúk family arrived in the country of Rúm (the Asiatic provinces -of the Roman Empire) in the year 476 (1083). They first allied -themselves with the Danishmend family, and occupied with them the -districts of Malatia, Cæsarea, Alayeh, and Konia. The Seljúkians took -up their residence in the latter town, while the Danishmend family -resided in those of Sivás and Erzerúm. Melek Ghází died at Nigissár and -is buried there; Ala-ud-dín the prince of the Seljúk family, called -Toghrúl-beg, the ancestor of the Ottoman family from Mahán was a -relation of his, and created him a Beg; he made some inroads from Konia -on Nicæa, Brússa and Nicomedia. Ertoghrúl-beg, who was invested with -drum and banner, had not yet the right of striking coins and of the -Friday prayer, he was buried at Sogudjek near Nicæa. His son Osmán-beg -was the first absolute monarch of the Ottoman family whose name was -struck on the coin, and prayer said by Túrsún Fakíh, 699 (1299). He -married the daughter of Sheikh Edebálí who became the mother of Orkhán, -and through whom the Ottoman Sultáns are related to the prophet. Until -the time of Mohammed II. these princes were called Beg. Mohammed II. -was the first called Sultán by Akshems-ud-dín and whose name was struck -upon coins. Selím I. was then proclaimed servant of Mecca and Medina -by Kemál-páshá-zadeh, and Ebúsúd Efendí the famous Muftí added to the -title of Sultán Súleimán, that of Sultán of two lands, and Khakán of -two seas, because he had conquered Baghdád and Rodos, but if he lost -either of them he was to lose the title also. - - -_Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán._ - -He conquered the castles of Bílejik, Ainegol, Kara-hissár, Inogí, -Iznik, Kopru-hissár, Elibád-hissár, Castel, Kítah, Bígha, &c. Osmán-beg -reigned twenty-one years after the death of Sultán Ala-ud-dín, and died -at the age of sixty-nine, after having reigned twenty-six years, at the -moment Brússa fell into the hands of his son. - - -_Conquests of Sultán Orkhán._ - -The Castles of Yází, Kogreh, and in Rúmelí, Yanbolí, Galibolí, Moderní, -Kojá Elí, Iznikmid, Belakabád, Brússa, Taraklí, Goinek, Karassí, -Bálikersí, Bergama, Adremyt, Ashlúna, Rodosto, and Búlair; the last was -conquered by Súleimán-páshá, Orkhán’s son, who lies buried there. - - -_Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb._ - -Sultán Orkhán died in the year 771 (1369), he is buried with his father -Osmán beneath a cupola in the mosque of the inner castle; he died, -after a reign of forty-one years, at the age of sixty-four; he was a -mild monarch, a father to the poor, and a warrior in the ways of God. -The divines of his time were David Kaissarí of Caramania, he was named -Kaissarí because he was brought up at Cæsarea, he commented on the text -of Mohay-ud-dín Arabí and was a second Taftazání in mystic science. He -was the first Professor (Muderris) of the College which Sultán Orkhán -built at Nicæa. Molá Ala-ud-dín commonly called Eswed Khojá (the black -master) who commented doctrinally on the work Moghní-ul-lebíb and -also on the book, Wikayit. Molá Jenderelí Kará Khalíl, who was first -created Kází-asker of Anatolia by Orkhán. Molá Hassan Kaissarí, one of -the greatest Jurisconsults; he wrote a good commentary on Andalusian -prosody, he was a disciple of Mohay-ud-dín, and completed his education -at Damascus. - - -_Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the great Saint._ - -When young he never mixed with other boys but sought retirement and -scorned all worldly pursuits. He refused to accept the dignity of -Sultán which was offered him by his father, who died a Prince in -Khorassán. Forty years long he did nothing but pray and fast, and -arrived at such a degree of perfection, that in the night, during his -sleep, his soul migrated from his body into the world of spirits, -and he became filled with the mystic science of spirits, and divine -knowledge. One Day the men of Khorassán asked him to perform a miracle -as a proof of his sanctity; he then performed many miracles, and was -acknowledged by all the great men of Khorassán to be their superior. -My ancestor, the pole of poles, the Sultán of learning, the fountain -head of science, the chief of the Sheikhs of Turkistán, Khojá Ahmed -Yessúí Ibn Mohammed Hanefí, was his disciple, and hinted that he had -received from him even the gift of direction to bliss (Irshád), and -of true Dervishship, which Gabriel brought from Paradise, with its -symbols, the crown, the habit, the carpet, the lamp, the table, and -the banner, to Mohammed the true fountain-head of all Dervishship. The -prophet delivered the direction to Imám Alí, from whom it came to his -son Hossein, who bequeathed it to Imám Zein-ul-ábedín, who left it to -Ibrahím Almokerrem, who when in the prison of Merván handed over to -Abú Moslim, the crown and gown, carpet and table, lamp and banner, the -symbols of Dervishship. From him they came to the Imám Mohammed Báker, -then to his son Imám Ja’fer, and to his son Mússa Kázím, and from -him to Ahmed Yessúí the head of the Sheikhs of Turkistán, who being -asked by his disciples to leave to them the aforesaid symbols, never -consented till Hájí Begtásh made his appearance, who became by the -possession of it, the pole of the poles (Kutbal-atkáb). - -Hájí Begtásh of Khorassán was the son of the Seyyid Ibrahím Mokerrem, -who died in the prison of Merván, as it has been just said, and there -is no doubt of his descent in direct lineage from the Prophet; the -history of Ain Alí gives, however, the following genealogy: Seyyid -Mohammed Hájí Begtásh, the son of Seyyid Músá Nishabúrí, son of Seyyid -Ishak Essákin, son of Seyyid Ibrahím Mokerrem El-askerí, son of Seyyid -Mússa Ebí Sebha, son of Seyyid Ibrahím Elmurteza, son of Imám Músa -Alkázim, who had thirty-seven children. Hájí Begtásh’s father left -Khorassán after his father’s death and established himself at Nishabúr, -where he married Khatmeh the daughter of Sheikh Ahmed and by her had -Hájí Begtásh. While yet a boy he was distinguished for his devotion, -and was entrusted to the care of Lokmán, one of the disciples of Ahmed -Yessúí, from whom he learned the exoteric and esoteric sciences. Lokmán -had been invested with the religious habit of Imám Ja’fer by the hand -of Báyazíd Bostámí. With this habit Lokmán invested Hájí Begtásh. This -is the crown or turban which has twelve folds in remembrance of the -twelve Imáms, and the white abbá with sleeves like a jubbeh, which -is worn by the Dervishes of the order of Begtásh. By order of Ahmed -Yessúí he accompanied Mohammed Bokhara Sáltik with seven hundred men, -Shems-ud-dín Tebrízí, Mohay-ud-dín Al-arebí, Kárí Ahmed Sultán, and -other pious men and Saints into Rúm, where the Ottoman dynasty took its -rise. - -Hájí Begtásh instituted the new militia called Yenícherí, and having -established his seven hundred disciples in the towns conquered by -Sultán Orkhán, he sent Mohammed Bokhara Sárí Sáltik into Dobrúja, -Wallachia, Moldavia, Poland and Russia. The seven hundred convents -of Dervishes, Begtáshí, which actually exist in Turkey, are derived -from the seven hundred disciples of Hájí Begtásh. Hájí Begtásh died in -Sultán Orkhán’s reign, and was buried in his presence in the capital of -Crimea, where a Tátár princess raised a monument over his tomb. This -monument having fallen into decay Sheitán Murád, a Beg of Cæsarea of -Sultán Súleimán’s time, restored and covered it with lead. If it please -God we shall describe it in its proper place. Sheikh Seyyid Ahmed -Ruffa’í, buried at Ladika near Amasia. Sheikh Hassan Rufa’í, buried at -Tokát near Sunbullí, was the nephew of the former. Sheikh Geigli Bábá -was a Dervish of the Begtáshís. Sheikh Kárá Ahmed Sultán a Persian -prince, who when on his travels came to Sultán Orkhán, was initiated by -Hájí Begtásh, and is buried at Ak-hissár. Sheikh Abdál Mússa Súltán, -and Sheikh Abdál Murád, both of Sultán Orkhán’s time. - - -_Short account of Sultán Murád I._ - -He gave caps (Úskúfa) to the janissaries, embroidered with gold; built -a mosque at Bilejk, another mosque at Brússa and a convent for Postín -Púsh Bábá. He was assassinated in the year 791, after the battle of -Khassova, by Milosh Kúblakí. A cupola is erected over the spot, which -was renewed by my gracious Lord Melek Ahmed Páshá. - - -_Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár._ - -He is buried on the west side of Brússa near old Kaplíjah, beneath a -large cupola. His arrow, bow and quiver are suspended over his tomb, -with the bloody garment in which he was killed, which fills with awe -all who enter this monument. He was seventy years of age at his death, -and had reigned thirty. - - -_Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd._ - -Besides numerous conquests in Anatolia, he passed seven times in -one year from Anatolia into Wallachia, and from the rapidity of his -movements obtained the name of Ilderím (lightning). He besieged -Constantinople, and established a judge there and seven hundred -Mussulmán houses, from the Flour-hall (Ún-kapán,) to the Rose mosque, -also the tribunal of Sirkejí-tekkieh. In the year 805, following bad -advice, he waged war against Timúr, and was taken prisoner by the -Tátárs after a long struggle on foot, his horse having been thrown -down. Brought into Timúr’s presence, he was well received, but Timúr -asking what he would have done to him had he been taken prisoner; -Báyazíd answered, that he would have put him into an iron cage and -carried him to Brússa; Timúr being enraged, ordered Báyazíd to be put -into an iron cage, intending to carry him into Persia, but he died on -the third day of a violent fever. - -His son, Mohammed Chelebí pursued Timúr’s army towards Amasia, and had -tents made of the skins of the slain Tátárs, beneath which he sheltered -himself from the sun. The field of the above defeat is called to this -day, in derision, Táshak-ová-sí. He took his father’s corpse from the -enemy, and buried it in the mosque he had built at Brússa. Sultán Murád -IV. when he visited this tomb gave it a kick with his foot, saying: -“What, do you lie here like a monarch,—you, who have destroyed the -Ottoman honour, and have been made prisoner by the Tátárs?” At the -moment he kicked the coffin, he cried, “Oh! my foot!” and from that day -was attacked by the gout, which carried him off. He lived sixty-seven -years, and reigned fourteen; he was a great Emperor, but could not war -against fate. - -The Divines of his time were Sheikh Sheháb-ud-dín Sivássí, who -composed a valuable commentary, and is buried at Aya Solúk (Ephesus); -Khosb-ud-dín of Nicæa, who contended much with Timúr; Simánezadeh -Sheikh Bedr-ud-dín Ben Mahmúd Ben Abd-ul-azíz; the Mevlená Fakhr-ud-dín -the Persian, buried at Adrianople; Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím Ben Emír Azíz -Merzifúní, and the Sheikh Pír Elías, who is buried at Amasia. - - -_Short account of Sultán Mohammed I._ - -He first shared the Empire with his brethren Súleimán, Mússa, and Issa -Chelebí, whom he subdued in one year and became absolute monarch. He -built Yerkoí (Gimgera) on the banks of the Danube. He died in 824, -and lies buried beneath a painted cupola before his mosque called the -green building, (Yeshil Imáret), he was forty-seven years old, and had -reigned seven years. He was the first who sent a Surreh, or present of -money, by the caravan of pilgrims, to the poor of Mecca and Medina. He -finished the old mosque at Adrianople, the foundations of which had -been laid by his brother Mússa, and built a cupola near Philippolis -over the tomb of Ghází Mohammed Beg, at the place called Kúnis. - -The divines and learned men of his time were Kara Shems-ud-dín Semaví, -famed for his works and travels, who was exiled from Brússa to Zaghrah -in Rúmelí, where he is buried. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí Ben -Abd-ur-rahmán Ben Alí Ben Ghánem. - - -_Short account of the Reign of Murád II._ - -The soldiers having revolted, dethroned him under the pretext that he -had grown too old, and put his son Mohammed II., who was only thirteen -years of age in his place; but being found incapable to hold the reins, -the janissaries again displaced Mohammed II. sending him to Magnesia, -and recalled old Murád to the throne. Afterward in the year 855 they -deposed Murád II. for the second time, and Mahomed II., then twenty-one -years old, obtained absolute sway, and took up his residence at -Constantinople. His father died the next year (856) at Adrianople, but -was buried at Brússa. He lies in more magnificent state than any of the -Sultáns buried at Brússa, his tomb being covered with a golden stuff. -He was thirty-nine years old when he died, and had reigned twenty-eight -years. He built the mosque Ujsherfelí at Adrianople, two other mosques, -a Dar-ul-hadíth, a Bezestán, and the bridge of Erkeneh with a mosque. -He was the first who assigned a salary to the Seyyíds or Sherífs. - -The Divines and Sheikhs of his time were Zekeriah Khalvetí, the -disciple of Pír Elías, who is buried near him, and Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán -Ben Hassám-ud-dín, commonly called Gumishlí-zádeh; he was the -son-in-law of Pír Elías, and having had the honour of kissing the hands -of the three sons of Murád II., he foretold to Mohammed II. that he -would conquer Constantinople, and establish the true faith there. - - -_Tombs of Ottoman Princes._ - -Ala-ud-dín Páshá, son of Osmán, who died in 804, lies near his brother -Orkhán; Shehinshah, son of Báyazíd, Governor of Brússa; Mohammed, -son of Báyazíd, and eight princes, brethren of Sultán Selím I. whom -he killed when going to war against Prince Ahmed, are all buried -near Orkhán; also their brother Ahmed, who was strangled by Sultán -Selím, and sent hither. Ahmed’s son Murád fled into Persia to Sháh -Ismaíl, where, at the end of three years, he died, and was buried at -Erdebíl near Sháh Safí. Two of his brothers, who had been spared at -the intercession of the Ulemas, died soon after at Constantinople -of the plague, and are also buried here. Korkúd, who, persecuted by -Selím I., was taken at Tekkah in a cavern with his governor Piáleh and -killed (909), is buried beneath a private cupola near Murád II. Prince -Hassan, the son of the latter and brother of Mohammed II., and who was -strangled soon after his brother had ascended the throne, also lies -buried here near his father; so also does the unfortunate Jem, brother -of Báyazíd II. He left a cup, which, on being emptied, filled itself -again, an ape who played at chess, and a white parrot, which was dyed -black by Sa’dí the poet of Jem, and presented to the Sultán, saying -the words, “We belong to God, and return to him.” In the year 1074 -(1663) at the time I, poor Evliyá, was on my journey to Vienna, Prague -and Lúnjat (?), I conversed with many monks and patriarchs, who all -agreed that Jem was the son of a French princess, who being taken by -Mohammed II. at the point of the Seraglio, became the mother of Báyazíd -and Jem. The three brethren of Mohammed I., Issa, Mússa and Súleimán -are buried beside their father Báyazíd at his mosque. There are many -hundred princes and princesses buried at the mosque of Sultán Murád II. -at Brússa. Chelebí Sultán Mustafa, the son of Súleimán I., who, on the -invidious report of his enemies, was strangled by his father, also lies -buried in the tomb of Sultán Murád II., though some pretend that he -is interred on the east side of the courtyard gate of Eyyúb, but that -is another Mustafa, who was killed by his father Súleimán, he having -had two sons of that name. The first six Ottoman emperors are also -interred at Adrianople, at the heads of their coffins a particular kind -of turban is placed, with folds and farthingales, after the fashion of -Mahán, the town of Khorassán. The art of folding them has descended -from father to son in one family, from the time of the Seljúkians. -Mahommed II. wore the Urf (a kind of round turban), and the conqueror -of Egypt wore the Selímí; may it last for ever! - - -_Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa._ - -Sheikh Geiklí Bábá Sultán was one of the followers of Ahmed Yessúí, and -came from Azerbeiján. He used to ride on wild roes in the woods, and -load gazelles with his baggage after he had harnessed them. He planted -a tree near the Seráï in the castle at Brússa, which has now arrived at -a great height. His tomb at Brússa in the great convent was built by -Orkhán. - -Abdál Mússa, also a disciple of Ahmed Yessúí, came from Khorassán with -Hájí Begtásh to Rúm. He was a companion of Geiklí Bábá, and was present -with him at the conquest of Brússa, where he was buried in a convent. - -Abdál Murád Sultán, one of the Saints lost in abstraction (Santons), -who was present at the conquest of Brússa. He is buried in a convent -facing the town on the South side, in a pleasant place, which is at the -same time a pleasure garden for the inhabitants of Brússa. A sword, -three cubits long is shown here from which Sultán Ahmed I. cut off one -cubit’s length, which he placed in his treasury. - -Molá Shems-ud-dín Mohammed Ben Mohammed Ben Hamza Ben Mohammed -Fanarí, the sun of hidden things, and the moon of life, one of the -first divines of Sultán Ilderím, has left works on seventy different -scientific subjects, but by God’s will became blind at last. It is -related that having opened the grave of his master Kara Ala-ud-dín, a -voice was heard saying: “Art thou there? God deprive thee of sight!” -and a whirlwind rising at the same moment blew all the dust of the -grave into his eyes, by which he became blind. He was one of the -divines who denied the verse; “The earth does not eat the flesh of -the Ulema.” Aúz-páshá, Sultán Orkhán’s Vezír, having a spite against -Fanárí, said, “May I see the day on which I shall perform the prayer -for the dead over this blind Mollá’s grave.” This being told to the -Mollá, he said “God Almighty can yet take away the sight of the -Páshá, and give me back mine to perform prayer on his grave;” and it -so happened that Aúz-páshá having had his eyes put out by command of -Sultán Orkhán for a badly executed commission, Fanarí had his sight -restored to him the same night, and performed the prayer of death on -the Páshá. He died in the year 833, and reposes at Brússa near his -college. - -Shems-ud-dín Mahommed Ben Alí, called Emír Sultán, born at Bokhára, -came first to Mecca, and then to Medina, where the Sherífs refused to -give him the portion allotted to the Sherífs, though he was entitled -to it by his descent from the prophet through Hossein. The Saint -appealed to the decision of the prophet himself, and went to his tomb -accompanied by his adversaries, where, having saluted the grave, a -voice was heard, saying: “Health to you my child, Mohammed Ben Ali, -go to Rúm with the lamp;” upon hearing which the Sherífs instantly -threw themselves at his feet, and Emír Sultán undertook the journey -to Rúm, whereupon a lamp suspended in heaven became his guide to -show him the way, and was only extinguished when he entered the town -of Brússa. He took this as an evident sign that he was to fix his -residence there, where he had four hundred thousand disciples. The -inhabitants of Brússa had seen the lamp for three days, and knew by -that miracle that he was a great saint. They all became Dervishes -under his direction. Báyazíd Ilderím not only walked on foot by the -side of his stirrup, but also gave him his daughter Nilúfer Khánum in -marriage. Ilderím having built the great mosque Úlújámí at Brússa, -and having asked Emír Sultán whether it was not a perfect mosque, the -Saint answered; “Yes, it is a very elegant mosque, but some cups of -wine for the refreshment of the pious are wanting in the middle.” The -Sultán replied with surprise; “How, would it be possible to stain God’s -house with the liquor forbidden by the law.” “Well,” said the Saint, -“thou hast built a mosque, Báyazíd, and, find it strange to put cups of -wine therein; and thou whose body is God’s house, more excellent than -a talisman composed of the divine names, or the throne of God, how is -it thou art not afraid of staining the purity of this godlike house -with wine day and night.” From that moment Báyazíd, repenting, left -off drinking wine. When Timúr marched against Brússa the inhabitants -being alarmed, inquired of Emír Sultán what was now to become of the -town. The Saint said, “the commander of the town having recommended it -to the care of Eskejí Kojá and Khizr, they must be informed of it.” -Ilderím being defeated, Emír Sultán wrote a note which he sent by one -of his Dervishes into the camp of Timúr, with an order to deliver -it to Eskejí Kojá, that is to the chief of the tailors who mend old -clothes. Having read the Saint’s note, he said, “Emír Sultán shall -be instantly obeyed;” he stuck his needle in his turban, and before -he could put up his things in his bag, all the tents of the camp -were broke up by the power of his command, because this old tailor -happened also to be a pole of poles, or great Saint. Emír Sultán died -in the year 833 (1429), and is buried outside of Brússa to the East, -beneath a high cupola; the gates are inlaid with silver, so also is -the entrance, by which you descend six steps. The walls are covered -with variegated china (Chíní). The four windows looking westward to -the field of Brússa are brass; four others look towards the Kiblah -into the yard of the mosque. The great number of suspended ornaments -which adorn the interior of the mosque are equalled only by those of -Medina; the silk carpets are richer than are found elsewhere. The tomb -is encircled by gold and silver lamps, candlesticks, candelabras, and -vases for perfumes and rosewater. On the coffin lay Koráns by the hands -of Yakút Mostea’-assemí, Sheikh Bekrí, Abd-allah Krími Kháledí, Timúrjí -Kúlí, Zehebí, Ibn Sheikh-dedeh Mohammed, Kará Hissári, Hassan Chelebí, -&c. The coffin is covered with silk embroidered with gold, and at the -head a large turban reposes majestically. Those who enter are struck -with such awe, that many do not dare attempt it, but only look into it -by the window at the head, and recite a Fátihah. On the south side of -the tomb is a very elegant mosque, the four sides of which are laid -out in cells for the poor, who dine here at the Imáret. When Sultán -Selím I., after the death of his brother Ahmed, visited the tomb of -Emír Sultán, a voice was heard, saying: “Enter Egypt in security,” -which was interpreted as news of the conquest of Egypt, which Emír -Sultán promised to Selím I., and on that intimation Kemál-páshá-zádeh -instantly said a Fátihah. - -The Muftí of divine secrets, the champion of mystic illumination, -Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán Ben Alí Ben Ahmed Al-bostámí, a great lawyer, -who was also a good poet, is buried at Brússa. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf -Mokadessí Ibn Abd-ur-rahmán Ibn Alí Ibn Ghánem Al-anssarí, having -visited the tomb of Sadr-ud-dín at Konia, the dead saint stretched -out his hand from the tomb, drew the Sheikh to him on the grave, and -ordered him to read the Súrá Yass. He then built the convent Zeiniler, -where he is buried. There lived not a greater Saint than him in the -time of Sultán Mohammed I. - -Mevlana Mohammed Shah Ibn Mollá Yegán, one of the Úlemas of Murád I., -buried at Zeiniler. Mevlana Yússúf Bálí Ibn Yegán, who wrote notes on -the Telvíh. Mevlana Seyyid Ahmed Ibn Abd-allah who also wrote notes -on the Telvíh. Mevlana Elias Ben Ibrahím, who wrote an abridgement of -the Kodúrí Sheik Ak Bi’ík Sultán of the Dervishes Bairámí. Sheikh Uzún -Mosslah-ud-dín, who died at Táj-ud-dín’s tomb at Brússa, after having -read the Korán for the space of forty days. The pole of the spiritual -world, the mine of divine science, Fanárí, a great divine of the time -of Murád and Mohammed II., died 834. The Santon (Mejzúb) Abdál Mohammed -on the great road. Sheikh Sultán Ramazán Bábá, buried in a pleasant -meadow at Brússa in a convent of Begtáshís. - -Sheikh Abú Ishak Kazúní, his name was Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak. -His mother, Shehriár, was an Armenian princess and married to one of -the princes of the white sheep (Baiandurí.) He was born in the year -352, in the month of Ramazán, and was the pole of poles in his day; -he is buried at Erzerúm, inside the gate of Tebríz, beneath the same -cupola with Murteza Páshá, who gave up Eriván to the Persians. When -I visited this place the keeper was an old woman with a white beard, -whose story is as follows. At the time of the rebellion of Abáza Páshá -some of his Segbán came to the village Kánkoí, with the intention of -ravishing a beautiful Armenian girl, she being aware of her danger, -turned her face to heaven and said, “O Abu Ishak deliver me from these -rioters, and I for the remainder of my life will watch thy tomb.” At -that moment a white beard grew from her chin, and she thus escaped the -pursuit of the Segbán. I have myself seen her three times. The chapel -in memory of Kazúní, which exists at Brússa, was built by Ilderím; it -is opposite to the burying place of the Camel-drivers. - -Chekirkeh Sultán at Eskí Kaplíjah, before the monument of Murád I. -Shádí Sultán near Emír Sultán. Abd-allah Efendí. Sheikh Emír Alí Efendí -of the order of Khalvetís. Karaja Mejid-ud-din. Karanfillí-dedeh -at Hassan Páshá’s gate. Sunbullí-dedeh at the Tátárs’ gate. Sheikh -Alí Mest in the same place. Mollá Arab Jebbári at the foot of the -mountain. Mollá Ashjí-dedeh, Hassám-ud-dín Chelebí, Kháliss-dedeh, -&c. Mollá Khosreu Ibn Khizr, the author of the celebrated canonical -work, “Durer-u-gurer;” he is buried near Zein-ud-dín Háfi. There is -a small dark cell, wherein he composed this precious work, which I -did not leave until I had finished the lecture of the whole Korán in -it, as an offering to the blessed spirit of Mollá Khosreu. Sheikh -Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí the Imám of Ilderím Khán. Sáurimssakjí-zadeh -Súleimán Efendí buried near the old Kaplíjah, he is the author of the -“Mevlúd-námeh,” or hymns on the Prophet’s birth sung on his birth-day. -Mollá Bagdádí-zadeh Hassan Chelebí Ibn Yússúf Albagdádí is buried at -the convent of Zeiniler, where he lived and died. Mollá Hassám-ud-dín -Hossein Ben Mohammed, known by the name of Kara Chelebí-zadeh, buried -before the mosque of Emír Sultán. Sheikh Mohammed Uftádeh Efendí of -the order of Jelvetís, buried in the mosque of the inner castle, -with a large convent near it. Mollá Kemál-ud-dín known by the name -of Karadedeh, born at the village Súvinsa near Amasia; he was a -tanner, and did not begin to study until he was sixty years old, -seven years afterwards he became Professor of the college of Murád -at Brússa; he lived many years after this, and wrote a great number -of books; the work “Dedeh-júngí” is of his composition. He is buried -near Emír Sultán. The Muftí Azíz Efendí who was Sheikh-ul-Islám in -Sultán Súleimán’s time, and being exiled to Brússa died there. Mollá -Alí Ben Sáleh celebrated by the name of Vassí Alí, the author of the -“Húmaiún-námeh” (the Turkish translation of Pilpay’s Fables). Sheikh -Núr-allah Ben Ak-Shems-ud-dín, who having fled from his father to -Brússa, accidentally killed himself with his pen-knife, and is buried -near Zeiniler. Mevlana Abd-ul-ghaní Emír Sháh, his birth-place was Bolí -and he is buried at Zeiniler. - -There are besides, some hundred thousand great and holy men buried -at Brússa. Many of their tombs I visited and said a Fátihah in -remembrance of their noble spirits, but I do not know their names. -In remembrance of those whom I have named, I said the Súra Yass, and -recommended myself to their favour and assistance. I began my travels -with visits to many great Saints, and said a Fátihah on behalf of all -the Faithful. Health to you, and God’s mercy upon them all! During -forty days and nights I enjoyed all kinds of pleasure at Brússa, and -with my companions took leave of our friends on the 20th of Safer -1050; Okjí-zadeh Aghá accompanied us as far as the bridge of Nilúfer, -from whence we reached Modania in four hours. Here we sent back our -horses, embarked in a light boat, were tossed about by a stormy sea, -and at last reached Bozborún with the greatest difficulty at the end -of twenty-four hours. It was formerly a good harbour but was neglected -because it did not afford sufficient shelter. There is a khán and a -small mosque, some bakers and búza seller’s shops, and no other trace -of good buildings, but it is surrounded with fine gardens. The walls -of the mosque are covered with inscriptions by passengers complaining -of this wretched place, there is no possibility of saying a word for -it, because all who reach this point storm-beaten, have the same -cause of complaint. The inscriptions are in different languages, all -lamenting or cursing this place of Bozborún. One cannot refrain from -laughing at some of these odd inscriptions, which are both in prose -and verse. I was obliged to wait here two days, which I spent with ten -or fifteen gay companions walking amongst the gardens and vineyards, -which lie to the East, and eating pears. We walked about three thousand -paces into the district of Armúdlí belonging to Brússa, from whence a -Súbáshí is established here. It derives its name from the quantity of -pears (Armúd) which grow on all the hills, in the valleys, gardens and -vineyards. It is a village of three hundred neat houses, faced with -brick, a mosque, a bath, three mesjíds, a khán and ten shops, the air -is very pleasant. We spent a night here, and in the morning the boatmen -advised us to make haste because the wind was favourable, which, God -be praised, carried us out of this sad whirlpool of Bozborún. At cape -Bábá-borún at the foot of Kátirlí-tágh we said a Fátihah in honour of -Bábá Sultán, and beat up towards Constantinople. We arrived at last -at Agios Stephanos (St. Stefano) which is ruled by a Súbáshí, under -the Bostánjí-báshí of Constantinople, and by a guard of janissaries -(Yassakjí Kúllúghí), it is in the district belonging to the Mollá of -Eyyúb. In the time of the Infidels it was a large town, which was -ruined at the siege of the Arabs by Omar Ibn-ul-azíz in the Khalifat of -Súleimán Ibn Abd-allah. It is now a large Greek village of five hundred -houses faced with brick. It has a convent, some small streets and two -churches. We disembarked here and passed the night, walking next day -along the sea shore for three hours to the garden of Iskander Chelebí, -which belonged to the Defterdár of Sultán Selím II., who having died -without children, the garden became an Imperial one. There is an Ustá -or master with two hundred Bostánjí. The Muftí Hossein Efendí, who -had been accused by his enemies of ambitious and dangerous schemes -was first exiled to this place by Sultán Murád IV. and was afterwards -seized by the Bostánjí-báshí, strangled and buried here. He is the -first Muftí in the Ottoman history, who like the martyrs of Kerbela -died a violent death; he could repeat forty thousand Fetwas by heart. -We took horse here and rode along the shore in sight of our ship -advancing by the aid of oars, with our baggage. - -Thus returned I, poor Evliya, on the 25th Safer of the year 1050, to -Constantinople, went the same day to my paternal house, and kissed the -hands of my father and my mother. My father crossing his hands said: -“Welcome, welcome, traveller of Brússa!” I was astonished to hear this -as I had not told anybody where I was going to, but my father said: “In -the night of A’shúra the 10th of Moharrem, when I was anxious about -thy being lost, I performed many efficacious prayers, and read the -Suna (Ena Atainak) a thousand times. The same night I saw in my dream -that thou wast gone to Brússa to implore Emír Sultán’s assistance in -thy travels. That same night I gave thee leave to go this journey, -which may God bless! but now, my son, sit thee down, touch my left -ear with thy right hand, and hear my paternal advice.” I did so, and -he gave me many moral maxims, and much good advice on the manner of -my travels, enjoining me to compose a faithful and detailed account -of them; when he had finished he gave me a strong box on the ear, -concluding his lesson with a Fátihah. I kissed my father’s hand, who -then gave me twelve valuable books and two hundred well-coined ducats -to provide for my travels, and gave me leave to set out for whatever -place I liked. I then also kissed the hands of twelve great Sheikhs, -and to my unspeakable joy obtained their blessings on my undertaking. -This gave me great satisfaction, and the same week in the first days -of Rebí-ul-evvel, I agreed with one of my relations Kúl Oghlí Mohammed -Reis for a voyage to Ismíd (Nicomedia). - - - - -JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA. - - -“May God bless and make easy the voyage, Amen!” On Friday at -Yemish-iskeleh, after having performed the Friday prayer in the mosque -of Akhí Chelebí, where I remembered the vision I had had there of the -Prophet, whose hand I kissed, saying, “Siyáhat (travels)” instead of -“Shifá’at (intercession) O prophet of God!” and having given thanks -and prayed for health and faith, we embarked on our voyage, saying “In -God’s name!” (Bis millah). With a fresh breeze we weathered the point -of the Seraglio, passed Chalcedonia, the point of Tener-baghjeh and ran -straight before the wind to Darija, a square castle on a chalk cliff -eighty miles from Constantinople. This castle is built of stone, has -one gate, which looks on the harbour, thirty houses faced with brick, -one mosque, but no market or bath, and neither commander nor garrison. -It is said to have derived its name from the children of Darius, who -were imprisoned here in a cave; it was conquered by Mahommed I. in the -year 827 (1423), is ruled by a Súbashí and belongs to the district -of Gebízeh. Below the castle there are three hundred neat houses -faced with brick, a mosque, a khán, a bath, and small streets; its -harbour is the port of Gebízeh. At an hour’s distance from here the -road to Erzerúm and Baghdád passes through mountains. The wind not -being favourable we rowed to the passage where travellers to Konia, -Haleb, Damascus and Mecca embark in flat-bottom boats to pass over to -Hersek-dílí on the opposite shore, in order to save the going round the -gulf which is eighty miles long, and at the end of which is situated -Nicomedia. In the harbour of Gebízeh-dílí (the passage on this side) -are two old kháns, two bakers-shops, a búza-shop, two grocers-shops and -a fountain, erected by Mustafa Aghá the Bostánjí-báshí of Sultán Murád -IV. 1048 (1638). Here we again embarked and after rowing three hours -arrived at the mineral spring (Ichmesú), where we disembarked with all -our friends, pitched our tents on the shore, and gave ourselves up to -quiet and pleasure. - - -_Qualities of a Mineral Spring._ - -In the month of July annually, many thousand men from Constantinople -assemble here, and live merrily under tents during the space of forty -days and nights, amusing themselves with firing muskets and guns. Sick -persons drink of the water from the well for three days, which causes -vomiting, and relieves the stomach of a quantity of offensive bile, -while the lower evacuations cleanse the intestines of worms and similar -matters. It is a white, clear water, with a slight bitter taste, and -issues from a chalk cliff. The regulations prescribed for its use -enjoin a three days fast as a preliminary, no meat or any thing salt -must be eaten; on the fourth day the patient drinks a cup of water -morning and evening, taking care to keep himself warm: he continues to -drink the water for the next three days, taking for food chicken-broth -without salt. When the water has had its effect fifteen times, further -operation is stopped, by drinking soup seasoned with lemon-juice. After -this regimen the patients embark and go to the hot-bath of Yalova -directly opposite, where they rest themselves, washing and cleansing -their bodies. - -We then re-embarked, and after half an hour’s rowing arrived at the -village of Ainehájí on the sea-coast, a Turkish village with a mosque -and sixty houses. Eight hours further rowing brought us to the village -of Zeitún-burní (Olive Cape) a port of Nicomedia, where the ships -belonging to the Aghá of the Janissaries take in their cargoes; we -were pleased with the cultivated appearance of the country on either -side the gulf, and at the end of eight hours more came to the large -town of Nicomedia. It was formerly a strong built and populous place, -the ruins of which still remain; and is said to have been built by -Alexander, to whom the foundation of Scutari is also ascribed; and the -canal which was cut from the lake of Sábanja to the gulf on one side, -and from the river Sakaria to the Black Sea on the other, causing Kojá -Ilí and Nicomedia to be completely insulated; but that communication -was choked up by Constantine, and Nicomedia ceased to be an island. -It would be an easy thing to re-establish this canal, by which means -wood might be procured at a very low price. Nicomedia was conquered -by Sultán Orkhán in the year 731 (1330) and destroyed, in order that -it should never again afford shelter to the Infidels. A large square -tower of that period is still standing on the sea-coast, garrisoned -by seamen, which is now a repository for wood and timber. When Orkhán -besieged this town he gave the first command of his troops to Kojá -Baí, to whom he said, “Isnim vár git,” (You have my leave, go,) which -became the name of the town, by contraction of Isnim-git into Ismit. -After the conquest of Nicomedia, and Kojá-Baí had subdued the adjacent -country, it was called after his name Kojá Ilí and Nicomedia was made -the capital of it; but by the order of Sultán Mohammed II., Nicomedia -was added to Anatoli, and many times since has been given as Arpalik -to Vezírs of three tails. The imperial Khass amounts to twenty-six -thousand, five hundred and twenty-six aspers, twenty-five ziámets, -one hundred and eighty-seven timárs. The judge is appointed with three -hundred aspers a day, but his annual revenue may be reckoned at five -thousand, and that of the Páshá at twenty thousand piastres. The port -is much frequented by great merchants; its public officers are, a -commander of the janissaries and Sipahís, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. -The merchants, most of whom trade in wool, are richly dressed; the -invalids of the janissaries (Otúrák) and Kúrijí are wealthy. The town -contains three thousand five hundred elegant houses with gardens. -The largest is the Seráï of Sultán Murád IV. which is appropriated -to the Emperors, and guarded by two hundred Bostánjís; the next is -the Seráï of the Páshá. There are altogether twenty-three quarters, -three of which are occupied by Infidels, and one by Jews; and -twenty-three mosques. At the old market is the mosque of the tribunal -with one minareh; the mosque of Pertev-Páshá, with a leaden cupola -and one mináreh, stands on the sea-shore, it was erected by order of -Pertev-Páshá who was governor here for seven years in the time of -Sultán Súleimán. It is an elegant, bright mosque built by Kojá Sinán. -There is no establishment for reading the Korán or tradition. The best -bath is also that of Pertev-Páshá, it is a fine building, there is good -air and water, and attentive waiters. The bath of Rostem-Páshá, like -the former, is Sinán’s work. The best khán is that of Pertev-Páshá -with seventy fire-places. Besides the kháns, two hundred magazines for -wood and other materials are in the port, one thousand one hundred -shops of handicraftsmen, and forty coffee-houses, the most brilliant -of which is that of the Serdár, famous for its waiters. This town has -no stone-built Bezestán, but many valuable things are notwithstanding -to be met with in the kháns and shops. Near the palace of the Emperor -is the Imperial arsenal. The houses of the town are all on the side of -the mountain, with the windows looking towards the sea. The streets -are all paved with white stone. At the back of the houses the mountain -is laid out in gardens. The inhabitants are healthy, the air and water -being very good; their complexion is white. The woody mountains East -of the town are called Aghá Danesí (sea of trees), an immense forest -in which it is very easy to lose one’s way; here are trees towering -into the skies, under which ten thousand sheep find shelter in their -shade, which the sun’s rays cannot pierce. In these thick forests -are many saw-mills and works which must be seen, for they cannot be -described; they cut trees of one hundred cubits length, and the trees -of Yalova are famous all over the world. At the end of the gulf are -salt-marshes which afford pure salt, and are under the direction of -a salt-inspector. The white cherries and red apples of Nicomedia are -famous. - - -_Pilgrimages of Nicomedia._ - -On the west side of the town is the tomb of Sheikh-zadeh Mohammed -Efendí, a great Sheikh of the order of Khalvetís, and a great -alchemist. He distributed food and clothes amongst the brethren of -his order, though he never had any fixed revenue. I was entertained -for ten days in the house of my relation Kúl-oghlí Mohammed Chelebí -in this town; then embarked and went to the opposite shore only three -miles distance, whence after a journey of thirty miles, we reached -the port of Deal, the further side of which is called Gebízeh’s Deal, -while this side is called Hersek’s Deal or tongue. The origin of this -tongue of land is ascribed to a Dervish, who having been refused a -passage by the ferryman, took up earth in his apron, and threw it -into the water, where it grew out immediately into a point, on which -he walked to the length of twelve thousand paces, to the great fright -of the ferrymen, who saw that he was going to unite the two shores -and stop their living. They ran after him, and did not desist from -entreating him, till he left the remainder of the sea open, and entered -their boat. He is buried at the Deal of Gebízeh, on the spot called -Deal-bábá. At Hersek Deal is a large Khán for travellers who wait there -for a passage; Hersek-oghlí Ahmed Páshá was Vezír to Mohammed II., and -this Khán, built by him, bears his name. We set sail, and at the end -of fifty miles reached the castle of Kara Yalaváj, built by a Greek -princess, and named Kara Yalaváj-oghlí, who conquered it in the time of -Osmán. The castle was destroyed at the siege, which was difficult and -prolonged, the ruins still remain; in the time of Ilderím this castle -was said to belong to the sanjak of Brússa. The judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the -janissaries and a Súbashi, the town has seven-hundred houses, faced -with brick, and seven mihrabs. In the Market-place is a mosque with a -minareh capable of holding a great number of people, one bath, three -kháns and from forty to fifty shops, but the air being very heavy, -agues frequently prevail. Its yoghúrd and fruits are excellent. Having -visited all that was worth seeing here, we entered our chariots (araba) -took a south east direction, and at the end of five hours arrived at -Germáb Jihán-námah, a pleasure spot in the midst of thick forests, -where we found a couple of hundred tents. We pitched ours and entered -into conversation with the guests, who come here after taking a course -of the purgative waters at Deal, to cleanse themselves in the hotbath, -which was built in the time of Yanko Ben Madián. Helena, the daughter -of Yanko, being leprous and exiled to these mountains, discovered by -accident the marvellous quality of these waters; by bathing in them, -she became cured of her leprosy in forty days, which was the cause -of this building being erected. Her father built six cupolas, of -which two are yet existing, with a large basin beneath, the water of -which is extremely hot, but is pleasant when mixed with cold. These -baths are frequented by a great many people in the cherry season. We -remained here a whole week, after which we again started, and at the -end of a five hours journey, came to the castle of Samánlí, which was -conquered in Sultán Osmán’s time by Samánlí-oghlí from whom it took -its name. Its castle is in ruins, and there are but an hundred and -fifty houses with gardens, a mosque and three mesjids, belonging to the -district of Yalova. The air is heavy. We embarked for the island of -Heibelí, distant twenty miles, which is nine miles in circumference, -and which we have already mentioned in our journey to Brússa. Six -miles further on is the island Táshánlí, which derives its name (Hare -island) from the infinite number of hares, found there; it is only one -mile in circumference, and is uncultivated. The tree Rakíta (?) grows -on this island. After rowing eight miles we came to the island of -Búrgházlí with a strong but small castle, situate on the chalk cliffs -by the sea-shore. The island is eleven miles in circumference, and is -called Búrgház from its castle ([Greek: pyrgos]) it has three hundred -houses with fine gardens and good wells, and is ruled by a Súbashí -and Yassakjí, the inhabitants are all Greeks, and are rich masters of -boats. The island abounds in goats and hares. Their wealth is ascribed -by the author of the Taríkhí Yalován, to the loss of a richly laden -Spanish fleet which was wrecked among the Prince’s Islands in the time -of the Greek Emperors, the cargo of which being thrown on shore or -fished up by divers, enriched the inhabitants of Kizilata (Prince’s -Island), Heibelí (Khalki), Borgházlí (Antigone), Táshánlí (Platys -or Oxia), and Kanálí (Proti). The latter island is eight miles in -circumference, has a convent and a village of one hundred houses. Ten -miles distant from it is Kizilata (the Prince’s Island), a cultivated -island of twenty miles in circumference, with a village of two hundred -Greek houses. It is called Kizilata or the red island, from the -appearance of its mountains, and is near Scutari. On its four sides -Daliáns (look-outs for catching fish) are established. These islands -are seven altogether, ruled by the Bostanjí-báshí, and form part of -the Captain Páshá’s province, who appoints the Súbashí and a Yassakjí. -These seven islands are eighteen miles distance from Constantinople, in -a line between Constantinople and Yelova. I passed seven days visiting -these isles, the weather being unfavourable. At last the wind became -fair, and I entered Constantinople on the first of Rebi-ul-ákhir, after -a month’s absence, landing at Wood-gate. I kissed the hands of my -father and mother, presented them with some gifts from Nicomedia, and -received their benediction. Ketánjí Omer Páshá, an old and particular -friend of my father having been named governor of Trebisonde, he -appointed my father as his Kapú Kiaya or agent at Constantinople, and I -accompanied him on the journey to his government. - - - - -JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE. - - -In the beginning of Jemazi-ul-akhir, 1050, after having taken leave of -my friends, I embarked at the Flour-hall in the ship called Kara-mursal -of Fertíl-oghlí of Trebisonde, and in three hours time arrived at -Yenikoí on the Bosphorus, which has been already described in the -first volume. We there took in five hundred quintals of biscuit, and -ten boat-loads of ballast. In seven hours more we reached the castle -of Kavák, which was built by Sultán Murád IV. as stated in the first -volume. Here we read a Fátihah for a prosperous voyage through the -mouth of the Bosphorus, and, trusting in God, we sailed along the -Asiatic rocks, and arrived at the harbour of Irva on the frontiers of -Kojá-Ilí, a district with a Súbashí, a mosque, a khán, from forty to -fifty magazines, and one hundred houses faced with brick and surrounded -with gardens. The south and south-east sides are all gardens. We took -in water, and advanced by rowing, along the Asiatic shore. At the end -of thirty-six miles we came to Shila, a jurisdiction of Kojá-Ilí, here -are six hundred houses faced with brick, with a garden to each, and -a mosque at the head of the harbour. The small town of Kefken has a -bath, some shops and a khán. One hundred miles further on we arrived -at the island of Kerpe, which is twenty miles in circumference, but is -uninhabited; it is but a mile distant from the continent of Kojá-Ilí. -The small town of Kándria, with gardens, mosque, khán and bath, is -in the mountains of Kándrí at four hours distance from the island. -The river Sakaria here disembogues into the Black Sea; it rises from -the mountains of Cútahia, goes to Kiva, a place belonging to the -district of Nicomedia, and falls into the Black Sea near Kerpe. There -being no wind we rowed ten miles further on, and came to Akcheshár, -a Voivode’s residence in Kojá-Ilí, here is a judge with an income of -one hundred and fifty aspers. It was formerly a fine town, but burnt -by the accursed Cossacks in the reign of Ahmed I. There are now only -six hundred Turkish houses, some faced with brick, and others of wood; -on the market-place stands a brick-built mosque, forty shops but no -Bezestán, a bath and three kháns, one of which was formerly covered -with lead. The cultivation of the place is now in a very low state. -It is the harbour of Bolí; on the shore are seventy magazines full of -wood and timber. Mountain on mountain rises on the east side of the -town, and gardens appear one above the other; the people are healthy -on account of the purity of the air. We passed Ereglí (Heraclea) and -the tower of the shepherds (Chobán Kúlessí) a small castle on a lime -cliff, but not garrisoned. Near it is the statue of the builder, very -like life. We passed the rivers Túfadár and Bárten, the last of which -is a great river, where Egyptian ships enter to be loaded. The Castle -of Bárten was built by the Genoese; and is situated at the end of a -gulf eighteen miles in depth. We went from hence eighteen miles further -north, and arrived at Amassra (Amastris) built by the Greek Emperors, -the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Bolí. The castle is -a strong square building on a high hill, it was attacked at different -times by the Russians, who were always compelled to retreat. It has no -Dizdár, but a judge with an income of one hundred and fifty aspers, -and a commanding officer of the janissaries. In the castle is a mosque -and some mesjíds, but no dining or reading establishment. Amassra is -situated on the east of Sinope, distant five days journey by land, and -one hundred miles by sea. It is also on the east side of Heraclea, at -a distance of four days journey by land, and fifty miles by sea. The -climate and fruits of this place are much praised. On the east and west -side are two excellent ports, the safest refuge in the world; at the -eastern harbour is a bath, and good magazines. The river Kayú forms the -frontier between the sanjak of Bolí and Kastemúní. It is forty miles -from here to the harbour of Kadoz; at the distance of seventy miles is -reached the point of Kerenbe, a cape like that of Sinope; on the rocks -are some remarkable inscriptions. - -The castle of Ainebolí was built by the Genoese, and is now the seat -of a Súbashí, subordinate to Kastemúní; the judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the -janissaries, a Dizdár and garrison. The castle is a strong pentagon on -the seashore; its gate looks to the east, the houses are all faced with -brick, in the market-place are mosques and mesjíds, a bath and shops, -it is the landing-place of Kastemúní, but has no good harbour. We rowed -from hence till we came in sight of the cape of Sinope, and anchored -before Shátir-koí, a pleasant village, where all the passengers went -on shore. The high mountains (Balkán) are covered with tall trees, -which afford excellent timber for the large ships that are built here. -The inhabitants are all ship-builders. Sixty miles to the north, along -the seashore, lies the village of Istefan belonging to Kastemúní; the -houses are faced with brick, and seven miles beyond is the town of -Sinope. - - -_Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope._ - -Omer Ben Abd-ul-assíz, the nephew of Súleimán Ben Abd-ullah of the -Ommiades, having laid siege to Constantinople without effect, also -besieged this castle, but retreated without taking it. It was conquered -by Úlú-Beg the Lord of Kastemúní, and again in the year 796 by Ilderím. -As it is an extremely strong fortress, it was with difficulty taken -after the third siege. It is a free fief entirely separated from -Kastemúní; a Dizdár, Serdár, a judge, Muftí, and Nákíb-ul-ishráf, are -the authorities of the place. - -The inhabitants are a commercial people, being mechanics and merchants, -with some Sheikhs and Ulemas. They commonly wear ferrájís of cloth -and caftáns of Bogassin. The mountains on the east and Kiblah side -of the town are laid out in gardens. The town of Kastemúní is three -journies distant on the east side. Sinope is situated on a cape of the -Black sea, which bears the same name. Opposite to it on the European -shore of the Black sea are the rocks of Kilghra Sultán, and the -Black sea appears between them like a straight, which widens towards -Constantinople and Trebisonde. Sinope is five hundred miles distant -from Constantinople, and lies on the west side of Samsún at four -journies distance. The castle stands on a high hill with triple walls -of Shedád (gigantic or cyclopean) and was built by the Greeks. It is -seven thousand paces in circumference, and has six thousand six hundred -battlements, and eight gates, viz. the sand-gate, the place-gate, the -arsenal-gate, the new-gate, the hospital-gate, the gate of the inner -castle, (Lonjá), the Oghran gate, and the gate of the inner castle -towards the sea. All these gates are of iron and double. The lower part -of the castle on the seashore is washed by the waves on the two sides, -its form is an oblong square; viewed from the top of Mount Búzdepeh it -appears like a ship’s deck divided into three parts. The commander is -a constant prisoner, for the inhabitants are empowered by an Imperial -rescript to kill him if he goes further from the castle than the -distance of a cannon’s shot. The garrison consists of six hundred brave -warlike men. In the time of Sultán Ahmed, on a dark night, the Cossacks -took the town by escalade, and the great Vizír Nassif Páshá, was put -to death for having concealed it from the Sultán. It was retaken from -the Infidels and garrisoned with fifty additional men, and provided -with one thousand quintals of powder, a great number of large and small -guns, and other arms. From that period the watch has been kept nightly -by two hundred officers and Chaúches, and after the music of sunset the -guards, cry their “all’s well,” (Yeg dir Allah). The Infidels tried -several times to retake it, but were routed and driven back in great -confusion, and God be thanked! they have made no new attempt since -the reign of Sultán Murád IV. The town is divided into twenty-four -quarters, those of the Infidels are on the sea-beach; one thousand one -hundred Infidels pay the tribute (Kharráj) and one hundred are exempted -because they are employed in renewing the fortifications; there are -five thousand and sixty ancient houses of stone, with slated roofs, -facing the sea to the west. The oldest mosque is that in the castle of -Ala-ud-dín which has a lead-covered cupola, and a mináreh one hundred -paces long, in a fair proportion, with three gates. The mihráb and the -place of the Muëzzins are of exquisite workmanship, but the minber -is so elegant that angels alone could adequately describe it; I will -make the attempt, but it will be like a drop in the ocean or a mote in -the sun. It was composed by ancient masters of six different kinds of -marble, which are so well put together that even the cleverest artists, -such as Jemshíd would be unable to discover the joints. All the flowers -and blossoms of the earth are here skilfully engraved and carved, so -that in all Islám there is no minber to be compared with this, unless -it be that of the great mosque at Brússa, which, nevertheless, cannot -compete with it in the abundance of floral ornament; in short, all -travellers and artists who behold this minber, place the finger of -astonishment on their mouths, for it seems more like a supernatural -than a human work. Being situated in the suburb of the Castle, it is -always crowded with people whose prayers are put up to Heaven. The -remaining mosques are the Súleimánie in the inner castle with one -mínáreh; the new mosque near the gate of the Meidán (Almeida); the -Ayá Sofiáh, an old mosque faced with brick, the mosque Kefelí outside -of the gate of the Meidán, and that of Mohammed Aghá with a well -proportioned mínáreh. - -The Baths are as follows:—The bath in the upper part of the market -is a double one, that of the lower is a single one like that on the -sea-shore, Yallí, the building, the air and the water are equally -pleasant and agreeable. There is the college of Sultán Ala-ud-dín and -sixty abecedarian schools. When I visited this town, the inhabitants -boasted, that there were two thousand boys and girls who had learned -reading and knew the Korán by heart. There is an Imaret, a house -for lectures on Tradition, and three for reading the Korán, and one -thousand shops, full of valuable goods; provisions, the white bread -especially, and beverages are good. The harbour is excellent, affording -shelter for ships against all quarters of the wind; there is no better -port in the Black sea unless it be that of Báliklava; the best water -is found here, and the beautiful symmetry of the Turkish youth of both -sexes is to be attributed to the mildness of the climate. - -I visited the tombs of Sídí Belál Sultán, Súbhan Khojá, that of Jují -Sultán, in the green monument within the Castle; that of Kází-Beg -Sultán in the college of Ala-ud-dín, that of Bekir Khojá below it, that -of Imrza Efendí at the Sand-gate, and those of Hamza and Emír Efendi -near it. - -South of the town is the high mountain called, Búzdepeh (ice peak) -opposite to which the rocks of Kilghra are seen on the European shore; -foxes, jackals and bears abound on this mountain. We spent three days -in this town, then re-embarked and at the end of three miles came to -Findíják-ághzí, whose inhabitants are all boatmen and ship-builders. -The river Kizil Irmák here enters the sea, it rises from a mountain -in the sanjak of Angora, passes under the bridge of Cháshnegvír to -the castle of Osmánjík, and to Hájí Hamza near Túsia, it derives the -name red river from its reddish colour. Higher up the river in the -mountains are found cornelians large enough for handles of knives and -daggers; no village in the neighbourhood is cultivated through fear of -the Cossacks; forty miles further on we came to Báfra, the seat of a -Súbashí subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge is appointed with -one hundred and fifty aspers a day; there is a separate Serdár (officer -of the janissaries). The distance from Samsún is a day’s journey. -Báfra lies south-west of Samsún and at two farsangs distance from the -Black sea. The Kizíl-Irmák, which comes from the district of Gunánabád -flows on the west side of Báfra, and near this place it is crossed by -a bridge of fir-trees, which forms a wooden arch from one side of the -shore to the other; it is well worth seeing. There are two mosques and -two baths at Báfra, and the houses are all built of fir. - - -_Description of the Castle of Samsún._ - -It was first taken from the Greeks, who built it, by Ala-ud-dín a -prince of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Sultán Ilderím; it is -the seat of a voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge’s -provision is fixed at one hundred and fifty aspers. Order is kept -by a commanding officer of the janissaries (Serdár Kiayayerí), and -the commander of the castle, Dizdár, but there is neither Muftí nor -Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The inhabitants are all packers and boatmen, no great -rich men (Awán) but a number of Ulemás. Every body dresses according -to his means. The distance between Sinope and Samsún is by sea one -hundred and fifty miles, and five days journey by land. Sinope lies -to the south of Samsún, which is a strong fortress on the seashore. -In the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror of Erla, the Cossacks -took this castle and destroyed the fortifications in some places, -which, after they were driven away, were repaired, and the garrison -strengthened, with great store of ammunition; it is now five thousand -paces in circumference, has seventy towers, two thousand battlements -and four gates. The river of Chárshenbe-Bazárí, which passes before -Amasia, disembogues in the Black Sea on the east side of Samsún. It -is a large river, not fordable, rises in the sanjak of Bolí, goes to -Tokát, and then passes before Amasia; hence originates the proverb -coarsely applied by the inhabitants of Tokát to those of Amasia; “you -drink what we have defiled.” The water of Samsún is called bad, it is -however clear and transparent. The houses are faced with brick and -surrounded with gardens, it has a mosque and kháns, but no college or -reading establishment, seven abecedarian schools, a bath, and a market, -but no port. It is an open place but the anchoring ground good. The -grapes and pears of Samsún are pickled (túrshí) and sent in casks to -Constantinople; its cables, ropes and resin are famous. The town is -situated on the edge of a gulf. We visited all that was to be seen at -this place and then re-embarked with our companions. - - -_Description of the Castle of Onia._ - -It was built by one of the Emperors of Trebisonde, was first conquered -by Keikúbád of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Orkhán. It is -the seat of a Voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge -is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers: a Serdár and Dizdár -are in possession of the military power, but there is no Muftí nor -Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The castle is a square stone building on the seashore; -the houses well inhabited, the mosques light, and the markets populous. -Having seen all this we re-embarked, and proceeding a few miles with a -favourable wind, came to Fátsha on the seashore, consisting of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a khán and a bath. It is a ziámet belonging -to Janík; the inhabitants are for the most part Greeks. The cape -of Stephan is a sharp point advancing ten miles into the sea. The -mountains are interspersed with well cultivated Greek villages. We -passed it and came more northward to the castle of Wúna, built by the -Genoese, and conquered by Úzún Hassan the lord of Azerbeiján, who took -this castle together with those of Gumish Khání, Baiburd and Jánkha, -at a later period it was taken by Mohammed II. It is the seat of a -Súbashí from the sanjak of Janík. The castle is of a round shape, and -stands on a hill by the seashore, but it is not strongly garrisoned; -the gate looks to the east. It is ruled by a Serdár, and a judge with -an income of one hundred and fifty aspers. It has mosques, kháns and -baths. The inhabitants are known by the name of Wúna Greeks and Turks. -It is a good port, where the largest ships can anchor at any time. We -went from hence, straight before the wind, one hundred miles to the -castle of Gíressin built by Constantine the founder of Constantinople. -It fell into the hands of Úzún Hassan, was afterwards taken by the -Genoese, and lastly by Mohammed II., who ordered his general Mahmúd -Pashá to enter the castle in the night, the name of the castle is said -to have originated from this order, “giressin” (thou shalt enter). -It is on the frontier of the Pashalik of Trebisonde, to the Khass of -which it belongs; its public officers are, a judge with one hundred -and fifty aspers, a Serdár of the janissaries, a Dizdár of the castle, -an inspector of the custom-house, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. It is -situated on the seashore between Janík and Trebisonde, to the east -of the latter. By the appearance of the ruins, it was a large town -when in the possession of the Genoese, but it is now only a small one, -with mosques and kháns, a bath and a market; the gardens yield fruit -plentifully. Though the anchorage is excellent, yet the harbour affords -no shelter against contrary winds. On the west side of it is a small -island, where the Cossacks concealed themselves when they burnt and -plundered this town, which is not defended by the Castle. As it belongs -to the government of Trebisonde, some hundred men of Omer-Páshá’s suite -took horse here and continued their journey to Trebisonde by land. -We then steered our boat to the north, and arrived at the castle of -Purpolúm, which is a small square castle, situated on a hill by the -sea-shore, with a commander (Dizdár) and a garrison; the inhabitants -are Greeks. We weathered the Cape of Zemreh, where villages are to be -seen in the mountains. The castle of Kúrelí is a district belonging to -Trebisonde. The castle is situated on a hill by the seashore. Further -on we came to the station of Popolí on a great gulf, where traces of -ruined castles are to be seen in many places. Further to the north is -the castle of Kelpe, a district belonging to Trebisonde. The castle -stands on a high hill by the seashore, and was built by the Genoese. -The castle of Bozúr-búrní is a small square castle on a rocky cape, -called the point of Bozúr, which was the name of a monk who built it. -The castle of Akche-abád, a large district belonging to Trebisonde. -The castle is a strong pentagon on the seashore, also built by the -Greeks. Pulta Bazárí is the seat of a Súbashí and Naíb subordinate to -Trebisonde. A fair is held here every week which is visited by many -thousand inhabitants from the neighbouring villages; it belongs as Wakf -to the foundations of Khatúnieh the mother of Selim I., the Súbashí -is at the same time the Mutevellí or administrator of the Wakf. The -port is one of the most celebrated in the Black sea on account of its -safety. The torrent of Kalatímána, which rises in the mountains of -Trebisonde, enters the Black sea near the harbour of Púlta. The valley -of Seredere is enlivened by cultivated villages, whose inhabitants -go in boats to the market of Trebisonde, to the south of which these -places are situated. - - -_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the -Capital of the Lezgians; God guard it from all mischief!_ - -It was built by the Greeks and was conquered by Úzún Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján, but retaken by the Greek Emperors at the time of -Timúr’s invasion, until, in the year 878 (1473), it fell into the power -of Mohammed II. He brought forward an immense army by way of Jánkha, -and gave battle to Úzún Hassan in the field of Terjián, where forty -thousand of Úzún Hassan’s men were slain, and he himself fled to the -Castle of Azerbeiján. Since the victory at Kossova of Sultán Murád I. -no greater victory had been gained. Mohammed II. conquered the town of -Trebisonde thirteen years before; its name was spelt Tarbefzún (joy -increasing). Mohámmed II. fixed his residence here, coined money, had -public prayer performed in his name, and remained here three years. -He subjected the northern provinces of Georgia, Mingrelia, and Abaza, -established his son Báyazíd here as commander, and went himself to -his third residence, Constantinople. Báyazíd II. having ascended the -throne in his father’s place, gave the government of Trebisonde to -his son Selím I. who twice passed over to the Crimea, and heading the -Tátárs led them against his father. Being defeated in battle, once at -Varna, and once at Adrianople, he left his son Súleimán his Lieutenant -at Trebisonde, and retired in disguise into Persia, where he played -at chess with Sháh Ismaíl, then travelled over Baghdád, Meshhed, -Mecca and Medina to Egypt, conversed there with Ebú Sa’úd Járehí, and -Mezrúk Kafákí, who said “O Selím go into Rúm and Persia, and then -come to Egypt.” After three years travel he returned to Trebisonde, -from whence, keeping up secret intelligence with the janissaries and -with Menglí Geraí Khán, he led a Tátár army against his father, whom -he vanquished at Chorlí, and banished to Dimitoka, where he died at -the village of Hawsa. Sultán Selím remained absolute monarch, and -immortalised himself by the victories of Chaldir and Egypt. - -Súleimán was brought up at Trebisonde, which has been the seat of four -Ottoman Emperors. In remembrance of his youth spent here, he sent his -mother to this place and raised it to a separate province, with the -addition of the sanjak of Batúm. It is a Beglerbeglik of two tails, -but was given more than once to Vezírs of three tails as arpalik, in -the reign of Murád IV. and Ibrahím. The Khass of the Páshá consists -according to the Kanún (law) of forty thousand aspers. Two Súbashí are -attached to this place, and the Páshá may get, in a fair way, every -year, nineteen thousand piastres, but if he is severe, even thirty -thousand piastres. There are five sanjaks, viz. Jánkha, Batúm, Zír, -Gonia, and Trebisonde, which is the chief place. The feudal officers -are a Defterdár of the Timárs, a Kiayá of the Defter, an Inspector of -the rolls (Defter-emíní), and a Kiayá of the Chaúshes; an inspector of -the Chaúshes is also appointed here. There are forty-three ziámets, two -hundred and twenty-six timárs in the sanjak of Trebisonde, and thirteen -ziámets with seventy-two timárs in the sanjak of Batúm, altogether one -thousand eight hundred well-armed men, besides a thousand Jebelis of -the Páshá, so that the whole including the officers amounts to three -thousand men. They hold villages and land on condition that they should -go to war under the command of the Páshá, which if they do not they -forfeit their leases. - - -_Begs of Abaza Tribes._ - -The tribe of Jájlar, of Erlán, of Chándalar, of great Chándalar, -of Kechilar, of A’rtlar, of Kámishlar, of Sújelar, of Bozúrúk, of -Kúnassí, of Ashuflí, of Yokarúlí, of Jembeh, and of Súntija. There -are seventy Abaza tribes, who have made obeisance since the time -of Sultán Súleimán, and who every year in token thereof, send in a -tribute consisting of boys and girls, camphor, candles, pelisses, and -a thousand pieces of coarse linen for towels for the Imperial kitchen, -to the Páshá of Trebisonde, who then renews the treaty of protection -with them. Envoys come every year from Mingrelia with this tribute -to Trebisonde, according to the constitution of Sultán Súleimán. The -Judge, a Mollá with five hundred aspers, extends his jurisdiction to -forty-one districts, and makes annually a revenue of eight thousand -piastres. - - -_The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde._ - -These are the Páshá, Muftí, Nakíb, and instead of the Serdár of the -janissaries a Chaúsh of high authority, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a -Súbashí, an Ayák Náíb, a Mohtessib, an inspector of the Custom-house -and of the fish-market, a Sháh Bender or chief of the merchants, an -inspector of the dyers, of the wine, and wax, in short seventeen public -magistrates appointed by an Imperial rescript. The inhabitants also -possess an Imperial privilege which allows them to kill the Jews who -enter the town, the reason of their being thus empowered shall, if it -pleases God! be detailed in another place. The town is situate on the -eastern side of the Black sea and is surrounded by delightful gardens. -The distance from Constantinople is exactly a thousand miles. The -mountains of the Lezgís are towards the south and the east; the name -Lezgí has been corrupted into Laz. Mohammed II. having conquered this -town, colonized it from all quarters and rendered it a populous place; -the inhabitants are Lezgís and Janissaries, who inherit this right -from father to son. Their names are, Alí, Welí, Khodaverdí, Ja’fer, -Peshír, Feslí, Memí, Meizer, Fakhzád, and Memet, with the word báshá -added to the end, which is pronounced here páshá. The surnames are, son -of Fertúl, Fodúl, Fazár, Kashúmbúr, Katráz, Kalafát, Kosdúd, Júndah, -Alialí, Súrmenelí, Pípolí, Kashíd-bárí, Siámí, Jorkájí, Khángí-chíchú, -Kotúzmeslí, A’álí, Gúnelí; the names of the women, Omkhán, Esma -Khán, Rábieh, Assieh, Hánifeh, Afífa, Saikha, Fátima, Khúftí, Túntí, -Gulshákhí, Mihrmáh, Khiva, Khúma, Zákhila, and Ánifah; the names of the -slaves, Ússuf, Paiván, Kananan, Allah-kúlí, Rostem, Apártí, &c. These -names were originally pure Arabic names, but are spelt in such a way by -the Lezgians, that they appear quite strange. Many of the inhabitants -of the order of the Dervíshes Gulshení wear necklaces of coral, jasper -and turquoise. Both Prose and Poetry are cultivated to a high degree, -and there are in our age no less than eleven poets, every one of whom -is the author of a Diván or alphabetical collection of Ghazels (Odes). - - -_Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde._ - -Ghanayí Efendí was Secretary to Tayem-Páshá, and afterwards to Melek -Ahmed Páshá. He knew the dictionaries of Kamús and Shemií by heart, -as well as the discourses of Urfí and Túzúlí. Ghanayí went with Melek -Ahmed Páshá to his government of Rúmelí, and is buried at Sofía in -the mosque of Dervish Mohammed Páshá 1021 (1612). Alí-jání succeeded -to his father’s office. He left three volumes in verse and prose, in -comparison with which Weissi himself is but a stammering child. - - -_Form and Size of the Town, and Description of its Monuments._ - -It consists of two great castles between the edge of Mount Bozdepeh -and the shore of the Black sea, and is divided into three parts; the -first is the lower castle, the second the middle castle, and the -innermost or tower castle, it is extremely strong being protected by -mount Bozdepeh. The ditch is very deep, and seventy paces broad, all -cut in lime-stone; inside this castle is a mosque, barracks for the -garrison, magazines and storehouses. On the north side a gate leads to -the middle castle, which is the only open gate; a second secret gate -(Oghrún Kapú) is always kept closed. The middle castle is an oblong -square enclosed by walls. The gate on the east side which leads from -the tower or innermost castle is called the New Friday’s gate, the -second gate is also at the end of the same wall. The tanneries are -outside of it, and it is therefore called the tanner’s gate. In front -of it flows a rivulet which rises in the mountains of Bozdepeh and the -Lezgían mountains on the east, and passes through the tanneries into -the sea; it sometimes swells into a furious torrent. In the centre of -the tanner’s market is a large bridge built of stone by Úzún Hassan -the lord of the castle, it lies to the east of Erzerúm. The third gate -of the middle castle is on the western wall and is called the prison -gate, where the malefactors and debtors are confined. From this gate -you pass over a stone bridge to the gate Za’anús. The fourth gate is on -the northern side of the wall, and leads to the lower castle, or third -division of the town, and is therefore called the lower castle gate. - - -_Description of the Lower Castle._ - -The north wall abuts on the sea, the castle is of a square form, -nineteen thousand paces in circumference. It has also four gates, -viz.—the gate of Za’anús next the prison gate close to the walls, -leading to a long bridge; the gate of Sútkháneh leading to the quarters -of the Christians; the gate of Mevlúz which signifies in Greek (?) a -small stone, from the abundance of pebbles that lie on the shore. In -the language of the Lazes, Mevlúz is the name of spurs or piers which -are raised to support ruined walls. The walls of the lower castle -extend on both sides to the sea, so that the town is closed against -hostile invasion, by a wall running along the seashore. The fourth gate -is that of Múm Kháneh or the wax fabric, because all the candles, of -which a great number are made at Trebisonde are manufactured outside -of this gate. Three quarters of the town are inhabited by Moslims and -Christians, but by no Jews. The houses rising one above the other are -all faced with brick and look to the north or west. - - -_Description of the Mosques._ - -In the centre of the castle was an old Christian church, Mohammed II. -having conquered the town in the year 865, turned the mihráb from -the east towards the Kiblah. Its mihráb and minber are of ancient -workmanship, and on the east side is an oratory (mahfil) of most -elegant carving. The wood is cypress, nut, and box; it is always -closed, and reserved entirely for the Emperor’s use. There are besides -three other mahfils or oratories supported by pillars in this mosque, -where people are also allowed to pray when there is a great crowd. -It has two gates, an elegant mináreh, and cells for students in the -courtyard outside; it is covered with lead. In the west suburb are also -four mosques, and two in the eastern; the mosque of the tower castle -is a beautiful structure with a mináreh much ornamented. The mosque of -Khatúnieh was built by the mother of Selím I. who was born here, it is -extremely well endowed, the market called Púlta-bazárí belongs to its -foundation, with many cultivated villages. The cupola is illuminated -by candles every night, its elegant mináreh pierces the sky. The gate -and walls of this mosque are built of black polished stone, and white -marble, in alternate rows; it was built in the year 920. The mosque -of Súleimán Beg on the west of the mosque of Khatúnieh, but at a mile -distance from it on the place of Kawák, has one mináreh covered with -lead. - -The mosque of Ayá Sofiyáh is on the seashore on the west side, it was -built in the time of the Infidels. Kúrd Alí-beg took it out of the -hands of the Christians, in the year 951 (1573), and adorned it with a -fine minber and mahfil; it is beautified with many marble and granite -columns, which cannot be described with sufficient praise. The mihráb -and minber are in the ancient style, and it is surrounded by vineyards -and plantations of olives. - -The mosque of Wárdogdi-Beg stands half a mile distance south of the -mosque of Khatúnieh in the quarter of Tekfúr-seraï, it was raised from -a mesjíd into a mosque by Torghúd-beg in 985 (1577). It has a well -proportioned gate and mináreh. The new mosque was formerly a church, -and stands in a lofty situation. The mosque of Iskender Páshá, known -by the name of Káfir-Meidání, (the Infidel’s place) has its cupola -entirely covered with lead, with a well proportioned mináreh. - - -_Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c._ - -Outside of the courtyard of the mosque of the middle castle is the -college of Mohammed II. with a great number of cells and students. -There is a general lecture (Dersí-a’ám), the lecturer holds the degree -of a Molla; it is a mine of poets, and meeting-place of wits. The -college of Katúnieh is adorned with cells on four sides; the students -receive fixed quantities of meat and wax for their subsistence. The -college of Iskender Páshá on the north side of the mosque, that bears -the same name, is richly endowed with stipends for the students. The -reading-houses of Trebisonde are those of the middle castle, at the -mosque of Mohammed II., where reading after the manner of Ibn Kether -is introduced; that of Khatúnieh, where works on the Korán are read -after the seven established methods of Jeserí and Shátebieh; and that -of Iskender Páshá close to its mosque. The abecedarian schools for boys -are that of Mohammed II. in the middle castle; the school of the new -mosque, a school so blessed, that a boy who has been taught here to -read the Bismillah (in God’s name!) cannot fail to be a learned man; -the elegant school of Khatúnieh on the west side of the mosque is built -of stone, with a cupola, where orphans are supplied with mental and -bodily food, with dresses on great festivals and presents besides; and -the schools of Iskender Páshá; these are the most celebrated. - -There is a pleasant double bath for the use of both sexes, in the -middle castle near the gate which leads to the lower castle. - -The bath of the tower is on the north wall of the innermost or tower -castle; it is a single one, and is said to have existed in the time -of the Infidels. The bath of the Imáret, built by Khatúnieh mother of -Selím I. The bath of the lower castle is a single one, that of Iskender -Páshá is double; the bath of the Infidels is between the New Friday -quarter and the Infidels’ place, and the bath of Tekfúr-seraï. There -are besides at Trebisonde two hundred and forty-five private baths, and -a great number of Kháns. The Khán of Khátúnieh has a stable equal to -that of Antar, which will accommodate one hundred horses; besides many -other Kháns for merchants and single persons. - -Of the Market-places, the first is outside of the gate of the -wax-manufactory. There is a well-built Bezestán where the Arabian and -Persian merchants reside, who are extremely rich and wealthy. In the -middle castle the market called the small market, is furnished with -every thing; its shops amount to the number of eighty. - -The Imárets are those of Mohammed II. in the middle castle, -accommodating both rich and poor. The Imáret of Khátúnieh, close to -the mosque, is not to be equalled, even at Trebisonde; passengers and -boatmen may dine here at their pleasure; there is an oven for baking -white bread, and a cellar (kílár) for keeping the provisions of the -Imáret. Near the kitchen is the eating-place for the poor, and the -students have a proper dining-hall. Every day, in the morning, and at -noon a dish of soup and a piece of bread is provided for each, and -every Friday a Zerde Pilaw, and Yakhní (stewed meat); these regulations -are to remain in force, as long as it pleases God. - - -_Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde._ - -The climate and the air being extremely favourable, the inhabitants are -all jolly merry fellows, who think of nothing but eating and drinking, -of amusement and pleasure. Being all idle amorous fellows, their -colour is red, and the women are fair, coming from Abaza, Georgia and -Circassia; every one a moon or a portion of the sun. - - -_Occupations, Guilds, &c._ - -The inhabitants are divided from the earliest period into seven -classes. The first are the great and mighty Princes and sons of Princes -(Beg and Beg-zadeh), who are dressed in magnificent pelisses of sables. -The second are the Ulemás, the sheikhs and pious men, who dress -according to their condition and live on endowments. The third are the -merchants, who trade by sea and land to Ozakov, into the country of the -Cossacks, into Mingrelia, Circassia, Abaza and the Crimea; they dress -in ferrájís of cloth and dolimáns called kontosh. The fourth are the -handicraftsmen, who dress themselves in ferrájís of cloth and bogássín. -The fifth are the boatmen of the Black Sea; they have their peculiar -dress, with iron buckles, shalwárs, dolímáns of cloth, and a kind of -lining (astár) wrapped round the head, ready, thus accoutred, to trade -or to fight at sea. The sixth class are the men of the vineyards, -because the mountains of Bozdepeh are all planted with vines, and in -the register are set down no less than thirty-one thousand gardens and -vineyards, so that if only one man is reckoned to each garden, there -are thirty-one thousand gardeners, but in some there are two and three. -The seventh class are the fishermen, a calling in which many thousand -men are employed. - - -_Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts._ - -The goldsmiths of Trebisonde are the first in the world. Selím I. being -brought up in this town was taught the art of a goldsmith, and cut dies -for the coin of his father Báyazíd, so skilfully, that they appeared -as if engraved in marble; I saw some of this coin at Trebisonde. -Súleimán (the great) himself was the apprentice of a Greek called -Constantine, who was the foster brother of Yahya Efendí, who is buried -at Beshik-tásh. From this time the goldsmiths of Trebisonde became the -most famous in the world, and work vases for rose-water and incense, -swords, daggers and knife-handles in most wonderful perfection. The -knives of Ghorghúr-oghlí are the most famous of all; the hatchets -of Trebisonde are a new and clever invention. The inlaid work of -pearl-shells, with which tables, pulpits, inkstands, sand-boxes and -chairs are ornamented in such perfection, that they cannot be equalled -in any country, except it be by the pearl-shell work of India. - - -_Eatables and Beverages._ - -The water of Trebisonde is fresh as the spring of life; the must of the -raisins of Bozdepeh is sweet, and gives no headache to those who drink -it; the sherbets called the triple, the muscat, and the clove wine are -the best. The gardens produce most exquisite fruit; fine flavoured -grapes, cherries red as woman’s lips, pears of different kinds, apples -called Sinope, figs called Bádinjíán-Injúr, which are not found so -sweet any where else, different kinds of lemons, oranges of a deep -purple colour, pomegranates and olives, of which alone there are seven -sorts to be found nowhere else except at Damascus and Jerusalem. One of -the small sorts is eaten before it is quite ripe and resembles a black -cherry; this is also an exclusive production of Trebisonde. Another -fruit, which is called the date of Trebisonde is roasted on stoves, and -is exported to many places; it is a sweet fruit, and has two or three -kernels. The ruby-coloured pink which grows here, is peculiar to this -place, each blossom is like a red rose, and perfumes the brain with the -sweetest scent, and weighs, without the stalk, from five to six drachms. - -The fish which are worthy of mention are Lorek-bálighí, Kefál-bálighí -(Cephalus), the Kalkán-balighí (Rhombus), which if eaten by women -renders them prolific; the fish called Kiziljeh-tekerbálik, with a red -head and delicious to taste; the gold fish, the Sgombro which is taken -in the season Erbain (forty days). But the most precious of all, which -frequently causes bloody strifes and quarrels in the Market-place, is -the Khamsí-bálighí taken in the season of Khamsan, (the fifty days when -southerly winds blow); these fish were formerly thrown on the shore at -Trebisonde by virtue of a talisman erected, as is said, by Alexander, -before the gate of the town, representing a fish of this kind in brass -on a column of stone; but on the birth-night of the prophet, when all -talismans lost their power, the same happened to this at Trebisonde; -thus the fish are no longer thrown on the shore, but the sea abounds -with them during the said fifty days. At this season boats loaded -with these fish arrive in the harbour, and the dealers in fish cry -them in a peculiar manner, at the same time sounding a kind of horn -or trumpet; as soon as this sound is heard, the whole town is in an -uproar, and people who hear it, even when at prayer, instantly cease, -and run like madmen after it. It is a shining white fish of a span’s -length, and is an aphrodisiac of extraordinary potency; strengthening -and easy of digestion, does not smell like fish, creates no fever in -those who eat it, and also cures sore mouths. If the head of this fish, -Khamsí-bálighí, pronounced Khápsi-bálighí, is burnt, serpents and other -venomous reptiles are killed by the smoke. The people use it during -forty days in all their dishes, to which it gives a peculiar flavour, -it is thus used with yakhní, roasts, pies, and baklava (mixed pies), -a dish called pílegí is made of it in the following manner, the fish -is first cleaned, then cut into slices on which is laid parsley and -celery, then another layer of fish, the best oil is then poured on it, -and it is cooked over the fire for one hour, it thus becomes quite a -luminous dish, which may be said to illuminate those who eat it. But -however this fish may be dressed and eaten, it is extremely useful to -the stomach and the eyes, and is a dish of friendship and love. God the -Almighty has blessed this town with all kinds of rare trees, including -box, cypress, and Turkish nut. It is wonderful that in the mountains -of Erzerúm, situated a great deal further to the south, all is winter -and storm, while here are roses, syringas, lemons, oranges, and other -sweet fruits. The winter and the air is mild, and the nature of the -people partakes of this happy equality of the seasons; they are kind -to strangers, but the Greeks and the Lezgians, the Chichú and Chifta -are extremely troublesome people; the language of the Lezgís cannot -be written or expressed in Turkish orthography; they have a peculiar -dialect, which even the inhabitants of Trebisonde do not understand -without an interpreter; they are for the most part boatmen, who -navigate the river Chorúgh to Mingrelia, carrying boxwood and slaves, -with which they trade to the harbour of Trebisonde, one of the best of -anchoring grounds and ports; it is open to the west, and looks towards -the harbour of Kaffa in Crimea, three hundred miles distance. - - -_Walks of Trebisonde._ - -On the place of Kawák outside of the gate of Za’anús, the Páshás play -jeríd with their troops on days of recreation. Three masts are erected -in the centre, one of them having a golden top which is shot at by -arrows. There have been no Jews at Trebisonde since the time of Sultán -Selím, who was governor of the town, the following circumstance was -the cause; a Dervish discovered on a piece of leather (saffian), that -was handed about for sale, an inscription, written in a way not to be -observed by every body, which implored the assistance of all righteous -Moslims, to deliver two innocent Moslim youths tyrannically shut up -in the Jewish tanneries. The Dervish having explained the inscription -to Prince Selím, a general search of all the Jewish tanneries took -place by an armed force, when not only the two brothers, lost many -years before, but many other Moslim boys were found, on whose backs -the Jewish tanners had worked in tanning their skins. This discovery -occasioned a general slaughter and banishment of the Jews, none of whom -have since dared to show their faces at Trebisonde, the inhabitants of -which town are a religious and devout people. - - -_Praise of the River Khosh-oghlán._ - -It rises in the province of Erzerúm, in the southern part of the -District Kerkdeh, from the mountain called Yailak-mesjidí, and after -supplying water to many gardens, passes on the right side of Trebisonde -into the sea. On the mountain whence it issues, stands a castle built -by one Khosh-oglán of the Chobanián family, but the mountain itself is -called Agháj-bashtághí by the inhabitants; it is passed on the way from -this town to Baiburd by a gate. - - -_Visit to the Monuments of Sultáns and Saints._ - -The mother of Selím I. is buried before the gate of Za’anús beneath -a high cupola, ninety men are appointed there to be monument-keepers -and readers of the Koran, which is read through three times a day. -She was a pious lady, a second Rabia Adúyeh. The cupola is covered -with lead as well as the mosque near the monument. God’s mercy upon -her! I remained three months at Erzerúm making the acquaintance of all -learned and distinguished men, and then accompanied Hossein-aghá, the -kiaya of Ketánjí Omer Páshá, who set out with presents on an embassy to -Mingrelia. - - - - -JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA. - - -We embarked in Lezgian boats with an escort of two hundred men, and, -trusting in the Lord, sailed from the harbour of Trebisonde to the -north. The station of Menzil Degermen Deressí is near Trebisonde, and -is a large harbour. From thence we sailed northward to Shána where -there is a harbour called Rútha. The forests are principally hazel, -the nuts of which are everywhere famous. At the end of some miles -from this place we arrived at the castle of Súrmena, built by the -infidel Greeks, and conquered by Mohammed II. from whom it was taken by -Hersek-oghlí; there is a Súbashí, a judge with an income of one hundred -and fifty aspers, a Dizdár and a garrison; it has an excellent harbour -sheltered against the wind from all quarters except the north-west, -but when the wind blows from that quarter three or four anchors are -required to enable ships to ride in safety. The district of Mahnúz -consists of sixty villages belonging to Trebisonde, the whole mountain -is covered with box-trees, the wood of which is made into handles for -spoons. There is the large village Kalipravúlí, whose inhabitants are -all Chíchú, and the large place of Khobán on the seashore, surrounded -with gardens; the inhabitants of which are Lezgians. The strong town -of Konia in the sanjak Batúm belonging to Trebisonde has thirteen -ziámets and seventy-two timárs, the militia is ruled by a Cherí-bashí -and Alaï-Beg, who in war time commands eight hundred men, three -hundred are the Páshá’s private troop; the garrison of the fortresses -on the frontier consist of a Dizdár and five hundred men. The judge -has a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers, but his revenues are -_in partibus_, because the inhabitants are all Chíchú Lezgís, who can -only be controlled at the point of the lance. The revenues of the -judge may amount to one thousand, those of the Beg to seven thousand -piastres; the castle originally built by the Infidels, stands on a high -square hill, it was conquered by Mohammed II. and has been many times -plundered by the Cossacks. The houses are faced with brick, as are also -the mosque and kháns. It lies on the river Júrúgh, the spelling of -this word is corrupted from Júí-rúh, which rises in the mountains of -Jánkha-Kawilí-hissár and Shín-kara on the west side of Erzerúm, passes -through Baiburd, waters the country of the Lezgians, and enters the -Black Sea near the castle of Konia. - -It has neither ferry nor bridge, but is a river like a sea, covered -with many thousand Lezgian boats, trading on this river to Mingrelia -with salt, iron, and different sorts of linen, and bringing box, -wax, honey, with slaves of both sexes, from Mingrelia and Georgia to -Trebisonde. From Konia we advanced to the north, and only disembarked -at the place Kemerler, then entered the river Júrúgh, and sailed -eastward for one day. - - -_Description of Mingrelia._ - -The sanjak of Konia ends at Khánedá the frontier of the tribe Ada Khosh -of Mingrelia. The mountains are covered with box, and the gardens are -planted with box-trees. We slept one night in the village of the Beg, -who did every thing to treat us kindly. We saw more than seventy -Mingrelian villages, each one like a town, and then returned to Konia; -our companions went back to Trebisonde, but I was commanded to go with -the company of the Zenberekjí-báshí of Konia to the siege of Assov. - - - - -JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV) 1050. - - -We embarked with three hundred fusileers of the janissaries, and -five rowing boys of my own, in ten Lezgian barks called Munkesileh. -These boats are made of the large plane-trees growing on the river -Júrúgh, and consist of three planks, two of which form the sides, and -the third forms the bottom; the sides are lined with reed twice as -thick as a man’s wrist; this lining of reed keeps them afloat in the -storms of the Black Sea, and they swim like sponges; they have neither -stern nor forecastle, but are equal on both sides, and are called -Munkesileh. On these boats I left Konia with a good wind, passed the -river Júrúgh and arrived at the harbour Sofárí on the frontier of -Mingrelia. The landing-place (iskele) of Khandra has no port (limán). -The landing-place Súri has an old ruined port. The landing-place -Yarissa is a ruined castle where goats are now kept. The landing-place -Raijeh is without a port, but has an old ruined castle. These five -landing-places are all on the frontiers of Mingrelia, they are only -visited in the summer time by the merchants who carry on the slave -trade. The mountains are inhabited by forty or fifty thousand warlike -Mingrelians. We passed the said five landing places, and came next day, -at a hundred miles distance from Konia, to the great river Fáshechai -(Phasus). The Fásha (Phasus) is a great river like the Danube, in some -places a mile, in others but half a mile broad, and from eight to ten -fathoms deep, fresh as the spring of life; it disembogues in a gulf -at the north end of the Black Sea, one thousand three hundred miles -from Constantinople. It rises between Mingrelia, Georgia, Thágistán, -Kabartaí, and Circassia, from Mount Caucasus (Kúhal-burz), Ubúr, and -Sadasha, and passes between Mingrelia and Abáza into the Black Sea. On -the east side are the Mingrelian villages, on the west the Abáza; and -both shores being covered with thick forests, the two people mutually -steal their children of both sexes and sell them as slaves. We passed -the Phasus, marching to the west, and for a whole day went along the -shore of the Black Sea. - - -_Description of the Land of the Abáza._ - -It forms the northern shore of the Black Sea, begins at the mouth of -the Phasus, and ends at the castle of Anapa near the island of Tamán. -The following tradition is related of the origin of Abáza. According to -the most authentic historians Adam was created in Paradise in the true -Tátár form, and having after his exile met Eva on mount A’arafát, they -begat forty thousand children all in the form of Tátárs. Adam having -spoken Arabic in Paradise, forgot it when on earth, and began to speak -Hebrew, Syrian, Dehkilí (?) and Persian, which languages were spoken -till the deluge, after which mankind divided into seventy-two nations -and as many languages. The first who invented new languages was Edrís -(Enoch) who first wrote and bound books, and hid them in the pyramids, -whence they were taken out after the deluge by the philosophers, who by -this means multiplied the languages to the number of one hundred and -forty-seven. Ismail retrieved the Arabic and Persian originally spoken -in Paradise, and Esau brought forward the Turkish as the language of -Tátárs; the people belonging to them are:—the Hind, Sind, Moghání, -Kurds, Múltáns, Baniáns, and twelve nations of fire worshippers, -with as many languages; the Noghaí, Heshdek, Lipka, Chagataí, Lezgí, -Georgians, Mingrelians, Shúrshád, Dadián, Ajikbásh, Armenians, Greeks, -Turcomans, Copts, and Israelites or Jews. The Franks divided into -Spaniards, French, Genoese, Portuguese, Venetians, Tuscans, Servians, -Bulgarians, Croats, Italians, &c. Four children of Menúchehr, the old -Persian king, having fled towards Erla (Agra), and being asked who -they were, answered, “we are four” (Men chár is) which being corrupted -remained the name of their descendants, Majár. Of the Arabs forty -tribes first settled in Egypt, such as the Mogrebí, Fess, Merakesh, -Afenú, Maibornú, Jíchel Khán, Aswán, Súdání, Fúnjí, Kara-mánkí, -Bogháskí, Múnjí, Berbers, Nubians, Zenjí, Habeshí, Gulapshí, Alewí, -Rompí, the Arabs of Yemen, Baghdád, Mekka, Medina, Badiah, and Ommán. -All the Arabic tribes amount to three thousand and sixty; some say -more. The principal, most noble and eloquent of them, is the tribe -Koreish Hashemí of which the Prophet was born, for whose sake God -created time and space, and who is entitled the Lord of Arabs and -Persians. - -But to return after this digression to the origin of the Abáza; it is -related by authentic histories that in the year 25 of the Hejíra, in -the Calífat of Omár, there was an Arab called Basha Melek who then -ruled Yathreb, Batha, Aden and Saba, and had five sons; the first was -called Jebel-ul-himmet; the second Arab; the third Kisú who had three -sons named Kais, Meválí, and Taí; the fourth Lazkí; and the fifth -Abází. After the father’s death, the principality of the tribe devolved -on the eldest son Jebel-ul-himmet, who, having by accident, knocked -out the eye of an Arab was sentenced by Omar to lose one of his own. -Jebel-ul-himmet on the same night took with him his four brethren, -and sought refuge at Antiochia, with the Emperor Heraclius, who gave -him the mountains of Syrian Tripolis. He there built the town of -Jebellieh which still bears that name. Having undertaken some predatory -excursions from thence towards Damascus and Medina, Kháled Ben Welíd -and Eswed Ben Mokdád overpowering him with their forces, obliged him to -fly. He embarked and went to Albania, where he took up his residence -in the mountains of Avlonia, the inhabitants of which are now called -the Koreishite Albanians: their songs have Arabic tunes, and they -derive their origin from Jebel-ul-himmet, who is buried near Ilbessán. -His descendants became apostates, and dwell in the mountains of Dúkat -(Ducato) between Avlonia and Delonia. They are of a tawny colour like -the Arabs, and hairy. So far of Jebel-ul-himmet. His brother Arab, -and his three nephews Kais, Taí, and Meválí were carried by Kháled -Ben Welid prisoners to Hedjáz, where Kais and Taí became masters of -the tribes that bear their names. Arab their uncle became master of -Ommán, their father Kisú and his two brethren Lazkí and Abází fled -from Kháled Ben Welid, first came to Konia and then to Constantinople, -where having heard, that Moavia the son of Ebí Sofián was approaching -Constantinople, he sought shelter at Trebisonde. Here the banks of -the river Júrúgh within the castle of Konia was assigned to the -Lazkis (Lezgís) who are also of Arabic descent. To the brother Kisú -was assigned the Circassian mountains, who, therefore, as well as the -Lezgís boast of being Koreishites. Abazí got the country which actually -bears his name, and thus the Circassians, Lezgís, Abáza, Albanians, the -Arabic tribes of Taí, and Kais are all branches of the Koreish family. -So God populated the earth, God does what he likes, and commands what -he pleases! The principal tribe in Abáza are the Chách, who speak -Mingrelian, which is spoken on the opposite shore of the Phasus; they -are warlike men, in number about ten thousand, who follow more than one -religion, and are an unruly set of people. Their mountains are very -fruitful, particularly in nuts, hazel-nuts, and apricots; they bear the -same arms as the Arabs, arrows, bows and lances, have few horsemen, -but valorous footmen. Their harbour Lákia lies two journies to the -west, three hundred miles from Trebisonde, but, on account of the -heavy southerly and easterly gales, no ship can pass the winter there. -Further to the west on the seashore is the village Khafál the frontier -of the tribe Arlán, consisting of ten thousand warlike men; their -harbour is called Láchigha; we remained here a night; it is a pleasant -harbour both in winter and summer. We travelled two journies further to -the west to the frontier of the tribe Chánda, fifteen hundred valiant -men, true Abázas, they are called the mountain Chándas, and their -harbour Kakúr. The village Kháke, near it, surrounded with gardens, -faces the sea. Three journies beyond, by the seashore, are the great -Chándas, twenty-five villages, fifteen thousand men; their harbour -is called Chándalar, but it gives no shelter in winter. Behind these -mountains is the land of the Mamshúkh Circassians. From the Chándas we -marched a day’s journey towards the west, by the seacoast, and came to -the tribe Kechilar; their country is like a paradise; it consists of -seventy-five villages which furnish two thousand marksmen; its waters -are pleasant. The great river Pessú flows from the Caucasus, and goes -into the Black Sea; it is a fresh stream, which affords no ferry in -summer, but is a safe shelter for ships in winter. Both shores are laid -out in gardens by the people of Kechilar, who may bring ten thousand -men into the field, the greater part horsemen. They are a very rich and -rapacious people. We remained guests in the village Háka in the house -of an Abáza, called Zeperaha, the janissaries our companions made an -entertainment of ten sheep, on which we feasted, and then proceeded two -journies westward to the tribe of Árt, who are more numerous than the -Kechilar, but they are neither so brave nor so rapacious, most of them -are merchants trading in fur. They feed a great number of swine. They -know neither religious book nor sect, but keep their word; their number -amounts to thirty thousand. Their Beg accompanied by from forty to -fifty armed Abáza brought us twenty sheep and three roes, as a present -to welcome us; he wore a coat called Kilchaklí-gebe-chekmání, carried -a bow and arrows in his hand, and wore a sword; he was a stout young -fellow. All his servants wore long hair like himself. The landing-place -of this tribe is called Ártlar; we passed a night there as guests; -it is an open place, ships therefore cannot lie there in the winter. -Another landing-place is called Liúsh, where ships lie for six months. - -To the north, in the midst of mountains, is Sadsha, the land belonging -to Sídí Ahmed Páshá; the inhabitants speak well the language of both -the Abáza and the Circassians; to the latter their country adjoins, -they are seven thousand brave stout men. The Abáza and Circassians -are continually on their guard, but keep up good intelligence by -trading together to the landing-place at Árt with slaves and wax. The -Circassians (Takakú) also come in ships, and trade in safety. We went -three stations further to the west, along the sea-coast, through a -woody tract, with high mountains, between which are many cultivated -villages, to the tribe of Kámish, ten thousand brave men; they defeated -the tribe of A’rt many times, and took their Begs prisoners, because -these Abázas steal each other’s children, and a man who does not steal -and plunder is thought to be bad company, so that they give him not -their daughters in marriage. In these mountains of Kámish swine are -fed to the size of asses; the landing-place is not much frequented on -account of the riotous character of the people. Among these people -of Kámish the children of the Abáza are sent from Constantinople and -Cairo; they have a Mesjíd, the air is pleasant, the villages all face -the Kiblah and the south. The market is held at the landing-place. -Three stations further to the west we came to the tribe of Sújalar, ten -thousand brave men; the ground being very rocky there are few houses. -There is a landing place, but I do not know its name. We remained as -guests one night in the village of Hádeka. As there happened to be a -wedding, they feasted us with a great many dishes, fine girls and boys -waited on us, and the next day the Aghá of Konia, our companion, gave -to the master of the house a turban, which was valued as much as though -it had been a crown, because having neither market, nor khán, nor bath, -nor church, they know nothing of cultivated manners. Their villages of -from forty to fifty houses are situated in the mountains. Ships of all -countries bring powder, lead, muskets, arrows, bows, swords, shields, -lances and other weapons, old shoes, borders of cloth, linen, bogassin, -kettles, hooks, salt, soap and similar articles, and take in exchange, -without using money, slaves, butter, wax and honey. From the Súchas we -went further on two stations to the west, along the seashore, to the -tribe of Dembe, who furnish two thousand armed men. We remained three -days at their landing-place and exchanged our old cloth for slave girls -and boys. I myself bought an Abáza boy. The fourth day we marched two -journies to the west to the tribe of Bozdúk, the Beg of which commands -seven thousand men. We found at their landing-place ten ships from -Constantinople and many of our friends, the meeting with whom was a -great treat to us. Mengelí-geraí Khán led three thousand men of the -Bozdúk to the war of Astrachan, which being ended he gave them a Yúrd -(Camp) in the Circassian mountains of Obúr where they remained. They -are a brave people speaking the Abáza and Circassian language. The -Bozdúk of Abáza and Circassia are separated by Mount Obúr; the distance -between them is three stations. They mutually steal each others -children and sell them. Two journies further along the seacoast is the -old ruined castle of Osowísh, where we passed a night as guests. The -inhabitants make bows and arrows; the Beg has three thousand men in his -service, who carry muskets; the landing-place of the castle is called -Gírmen Sowísh. Bears, swine, foxes, jackals, and woodcocks are found in -great numbers in the mountains. These Abáza people have a strange mode -of burying their Begs; they put the body into a wooden coffin, which -they nail on to the branches of some high tree and make a hole in the -coffin near the head, that the Beg, as they say, may look up to Heaven: -bees enter the coffin and make honey, entirely wrapping the body up -in it; when the season comes they open the coffin, take the honey and -sell it, much caution, therefore, is required to be used in purchasing -the honey of the Abázas. We here bought some more slave boys, and went -two journies towards the west to the tribe of Ashagalí, whose Begs can -bring two thousand brave men into the field, but they are all thieves, -and dreaded by the Abázas themselves. There is also a ruined castle -here, the landing-place of which is called Ashagalí, much frequented -by the ships of Kaffa and Tamán, but they cannot remain here in the -winter. One journey further to the west, is the village of A’atima -belonging to the Ashaghlís; there are amongst them many Mussulmáns of -the Abáza of Top-khánah. From hence Circassia is distant but a day’s -journey. Two journies further is the tribe of Súksú, their Begs command -three thousand armed men; they have horses of high breeding. The -landing-place is Hárdena. The river called Súk has no ferry, it issues -from the mountains of Circassia and flows into the Black Sea; there -are some wealthy persons amongst them. Two journies further on is the -tribe of Kútassí, whose Begs command seven thousand armed men. They -have magazines covered with mats. In the port a great number of ships -from Kaffa and Tamán are found. We met some acquaintances here from the -Crimea, the horsemen of which country are in continual intercourse with -Circassia. On account of the facility of communication the people are -wealthy; they also sow corn, the rest of the Abáza sow millet, which -multiplies a hundred fold. The houses of the Kútassí are covered with -reed; a cluster of ten houses is called a Kabák, the four sides are -circumvallated like a castle, and their dogs watch like lions around -it, they are obliged to do so, as all their dwellings are in the woods, -and each village is afraid of the other. The Kútassí are bounded by -the Shána Circassians; they are only separated by a mountain, which is -a day’s journey across; they speak the Circassian language. Thus the -country of the Abázas extends from the Phasus along the seacoast forty -days journey in length, and in breadth from five days journey down to -one, as is the case in the distance between the Kútassí Abáza and the -Shána Circassians. These forty days journey are marked by forty large -rivers, which issue from the mountains situated between the Abáza -and Circassians, and run into the Black Sea. Altogether seventy high -mountains, with two thousand villages, of which I know nothing, as -I did not visit them. Within this country are some hundred thousand -men, without law or religion, who, however, if you call them infidels -will kill you, and if you call them Moslims are delighted, but if they -become real Moslims, they are very good ones. They are a wild roving -people descending from the Arabs, Koreishites, from Abáza. - -The tribes of Abáza in the mountains are the Posúkhí, seven thousand -turbulent men; Akhchissí, ten thousand men; Besleb, seven thousand -five hundred brave people; Mukellebeh, thirty thousand men; Waipígha, -one thousand men; Jághras, eight hundred weak men; Ala Koreish, five -hundred men; Chíchakores, three thousand men; Mácha, two thousand men; -and Páncháresh, four thousand men; these ten turbulent tribes never -mix with the Abázas of the coast. The bravest and best of them are -the Sadasha. On the coast and in the mountains there are altogether -twenty-five tribes. - - -_Specimen of the Abáza Language._ - -One, _if_; two, _weba_; three, _ikhba_; four, _beshna_; five, _khoba_; -six, _fiba_; seven, _bezba_; eight, _aba_; nine, _sheba_; ten, _zoba_; -eleven, _akzoba_; twelve, _webazoba_. Come, _wai_; go, _úchi_; seat, -_otúi_; get up, _okil_; don’t go, _omchin_; boy, _arísh_; I go, -_sicháb_; wife, _abharesh_; I don’t go, _sikiján_; why, _úzú_. - - -_Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza._ - -One, _weh_; two, _toka_; three, _sitte_; four, _pali_; five, _ashú_; -six, _korn_; seven, _ipli_; eight, _ogha_; nine, _ipfi_; ten, _zú_; -eleven, _wehzú_; twelve, _tokazú_. Bread, _sakha_; meat, _gha_; water, -_beri_; cheese, _feh_; curd, _chehwáh_; pear, _kha_; raisin, _mosú_; -figs, _lakhmak_; chesnuts, _akshú_; salt, _laka_; seat, _otúz_; get up, -_odeto_; don’t go, _omke_; I go, _síkú_; where do you go, _síoken_; I -am busy, I go, _súwú_ _shakagh síkú_; bring a girl, _zinje doko_; I -found no girl, but a boy, _zinje dokalmet zeni okhad_, &c. - -There are many other languages and dialects besides, but I have quoted -only some words which I acquired in the course of trading; I have -written them as I could, but there is a great difference between the -speaking and writing, the pronunciation being extremely difficult, -like the chirping of birds. A great deal of judgment and sagacity is -required to converse with them, but a traveller who knows something -of the world, and of God, and desires to travel quietly, must have a -sufficient idea of every language to understand whether good or evil -is intended to him, whether they are going to offer him bread or a box -of the ear; the proverb says, “Men speak according to their intellect, -and, therefore, it is very prudent to learn some languages for the -use of the world;” such a man easily makes his way through strange -countries, and returns safely into port. - -We left the harbour of the Kútassí, and at the end of two days journey -along the seacoast, reached the castle of Anapa. It is said that -Alexander the Great, when commanded by God to build the wall of Gog -and Magog, arrived at this place, he was so much pleased with its air -and situation, that he built here a pentagon castle of immense stones -(Shedádí, Cyclopean); the room of the diván was paved with rubies, -emeralds, turquoises and cornelians, and for that reason was called -the Castle Kevherpaí Anapaí. It afterwards fell into the hands of the -Genoese, and when Timúr laid waste the towns of Dadián, Heshdek, and -other towns amounting altogether to the number of seven hundred, in -his expedition against Tokhatmish the Lord of Crimea, he also wasted -the suburbs of the castle of Anapa, but the castle itself was spared. -In the reign of Sultán Bayazíd II., the great Vezír Gedek Ahmed Páshá, -leading the expedition against Kaffa, took this castle also from the -Genoese, and put troops into it. It is situated at the extremity of -the Cape which divides the territory of the Abáza from Circassia, on -a clay cliff; it is a strong castle without a garrison, and has been -several times ransacked by the Cossacks of the Tanais. Outside of the -castle are one hundred and fifty houses built of reed; this village is -called Kabák. North of the castle are the mountains of Anapa. The ships -which go to Assov sail past these mountains, which extend as far as the -Cossacks of Assov. The castle of Anapa is well built, and in such good -preservation, that it appears as if it had just come out of the hands -of the builder. Sheep and goats are kept inside during the winter. -According to the description of Demir-oghlí Osmán Páshá, Anapa is the -seat of a Voivode of the sanjak of Tamán in the province of Caffa. The -people of Shefákí, which is the name of the inhabitants, only pay their -tithes at the point of the halberd, and are three hundred rebellious -subjects. This castle has a large port where a thousand ships tied -together with one rope may ride in safety. It is a large harbour, -sheltered against the wind from all quarters. There is no port like it -in the Black Sea; a kind of pearl was formerly fished for here; the -shells still lie on the shore; another reason why the castle is called -Kevhergán (jewel-mine). The Russians anchor here every year, without -the least apprehension, and fish for pearls. If this castle was put -into good condition, with a sufficient garrison and ammunition, it -would be easy to keep all Abáza and Circassia in complete obedience. -The Noghais also bring merchandise to this port in complete security. - -While I, poor Evliyá, was remaining at Anapa with the Yenicherí-agassí -of Konia, the Imperial fleet made its appearance in the Black Sea, -and came to anchor at noon in the port of Anapa. They stayed three -days, during which time all the small craft which had been left behind -arrived, and took in water. I and the Aghá of Konia waited on the -Kaima-kám of the Aghá of the Janissaries with some presents. I then -waited on the Lord High Admiral Delí Hossein Páshá, who assigned me a -tent and rations, made me his Múezzin and gave me a passage on board -the galley of his Kiaya Welí. On the following day the 12th Sha’bán, -1053, the Imperial flag was hoisted, and at noon, the gun for departure -being fired, we left Anapa and made sail for Assov. - -Sultán Murad IV. had planned a great expedition against the Maltese, -who alone remained to be subdued after the conquest of Baghdád, when -he was removed by death; amongst the fleet fitted out for the purpose -there were two immense large ships, called Kara Maona, of three hundred -guns. After his death the Infidels everywhere raised their heads -against the Ottoman Empire, and the Khán of the Crimea reported to Kara -Mustafa Páshá, the great Vezír of Sultán Ibrahím, that the Russians -had overran and plundered the districts of Crimea and Assov. At last -one hundred thousand Cossacks took the fortress of Assov after a siege -of forty days. Eighty thousand Cossacks remained in possession of it, -and one hundred and fifty boats, manned by the rest, infested all the -shores of the Black sea. This news having spread to Constantinople, -Imperial rescripts were sent throughout the whole of Rúmelí. Kojá -Gurjí Canaan Páshá, the governor of Ozakov, and the Governor of Rúmelí -with twenty-eight sanjak Begs, forty thousand Tátárs of Búják, and -forty thousand infidels of Moldavia and Valachia, and twenty thousand -Transylvanians, surrounded the fortress of Assov on the land side. On -the seaside came the Imperial fleet of one hundred and fifty galleys, -as many frigates, two hundred shaikas and karamursal, altogether four -hundred ships having forty thousand men on board, which had weighed -anchor in the port of Anapa, passed the mouth of the river Kúbán, and -the castle of Tamán; on our left hand was the Crimea with the point -of Kilissejík, and opposite on the right, the point Chúcka on the -peninsula of Tamán. These two points are but a mile distant, and the -inside of this strait is called the sea of Assov. We entered it with -a favourable wind, and came to an anchor in the port of Bálisíra. -Here all the ammunition and provisions were embarked in small boats, -called sandal, sacoleva, sarbúna, and túnbáza; and carried thirty miles -further on to the castle of Assov, because galleys and chaiks drawing -five feet water cannot be used here, as the water is but from two -to three feet in depth. Bálisíra is on the western extremity of the -steppes (Heihát Sahrassí) a lonely place; but the army and fleet having -arrived, many thousand houses for men and wares were built, and it had -the air of a large town, being the harbour of Assov. There arrived here -from Circassia, which belongs to the Governorship of Caffa, of the -tribes of Shagák, Shána, Meshúkh, Takafer, Bozúdúk, Pultakaí, Khatukaí, -Kabartaí, and of the troops of Shám-khál Sultán the Lord of Taghistán -forty thousand men, excellent troops, with seven thousand waggons, -which served to transport a part of the munitions and provisions to -Assov. The troops entered the trenches on the 21st of Sha’abán, and -the 25th of the same month arrived from Anatolí seven Vezírs, eighteen -Begler-Begs, seventy Sanjaks, and two hundred Alaï Begs with all the -Zaims and Timariots, who with their men (Jebellí) were forty-seven -thousand men. The Tátár Khán was ordered to keep the look-out, and -he surrounded the camp with his army of Noghaí, Kechin-noghaí, -Shedák-noghaí, Urúmpit-noghaí, Shirínlí, Manssúrlí, Sebhúnlí, Mankitlí, -Nakshi-vánlí, Chekeshke, Irbátlí, Úlí, Olánlí, Badrákli, Arslán Beg -Ilí, Chobán Ilí, Deví Ilí, Nevrúz Ilí, all Tátárs. - -On the same night the Infidels in the fortress, made an immense -noise by shouts and fireworks, which was caused by the arrival of -ten thousand Cossacks, who came by the Tanais to the assistance -of the castle, and did not cease firing all night, so that seven -hundred men were killed. The next day the Tátár Khán and the Páshá of -Silistra placed watches on the shore of the Tanais to prevent further -reinforcement of the Infidels, foraging parties were sent out, the -trenches opened in seven places, and on the side of the monument of -Yogúrdí-Baba pushed to the edge of the ditch. The camp of the Moslims -was out of reach of the cannon-shot from the castle. Next day Hossein -Páshá, prepared twelve large cannon for the attack in the trench of -Yogúrdí-Baba; and at the same time the Admiral Seyawúsh Páshá landed -troops from a hundred boats, who entered the trenches from the side of -the water tower. These boats (firkata), guarded the side of Úlúton, -Deriton, Kánlijah, Uzegí and the island of Timúr. Above the water tower -the troops of Anatoli with eight large guns, and ten regiments of -janissaries entered the trenches; at those on the south was posted the -troops of Karamania with six regiments; on the western suburb of Tayák, -the governor of Silistra Canán Páshá led ten regiments of janissaries, -one of armourers, and one of artillerymen, with ten large guns in the -trenches. In short the castle was battered on seven sides by seventy -large and small cannon, and the Infidels firing on their side, a -terrible contest ensued during seven hours till daybreak, with an -incredible noise and roaring. In the morning seven hundred martyrs were -found, whose goods were consigned to the revenue. The fire was renewed, -and the houses of the town dashed to pieces, but the walls having been -strongly built by the Genoese, continued to resist. This lasted seven -days, during which the Commander-in-chief continually made the round of -the trenches, encouraging the Moslim warriors with words and presents, -and carrying every thing on with deliberation. Several breaches being -opened some volunteers ascended one of them, without order, and planted -the Ottoman banner on the wall, which being seen by the Cossacks, they -rushed on in superior numbers, and crushed many of them by throwing -down a leaden basket. The rest, however, defended their post so well -on the walls, that in the end the Ottoman banner was planted on seven -places, and the Mohammedan prayer proclaimed. The Infidels getting -new strength and rushing on like a herd of swine, with the cry “Ne -bose,” drove back the Moslim victors, so that many standards and bodies -remained on the breaches, and the victors solaced themselves with -the idea that the conquest was predestined for another day. For ten -days more the Infidels were kept in continual anxiety. Four thousand -Cossacks who came to the assistance of the fortress in forty boats -(firkata) were attacked by Canán Páshá, who brought his guns to bear -upon them so completely, that more than a thousand men perished, and -the Moslíms made an immense booty, which was some comfort for the -hardships they had to struggle with. They rejoiced in the idea that the -general assault was near, because of all the towers of the town there -now remained but one, all the rest having been levelled with the dust -by the seventy pieces of artillery. But the Infidels now intrenched -themselves underground like so many Ferháds, and again fortified -themselves in such a manner, that whenever an attempt was made to -overwhelm them by a mine, they averted it, and threw the earth dug up -for an intrenchment into the river. They were most able miners also, -and continued to make mines even underneath the river, with resined -boats. Thus they stopped the Ottoman army for the space of forty days, -during which, notwithstanding great vigilance, many thousand Infidel -Cossacks found means to enter the Castle by throwing themselves naked -into the Tanais, and swimming across under water with a reed in their -mouths; their arms and ammunition were put into leathern jacks, which -they threw behind them while swimming, and thus relieved the fortress. -To prevent this the Moslims shut the Tanais with a wall of stakes -impenetrable even to fish, and by this means got great riches from the -Infidels, who now having lost all hope of succour continued the war -underground, killing a great number of the besiegers. A rumour began -to spread that the Czar of Russia was coming with twenty thousand men, -and this rumour, though it was only an invention of the enemy, caused a -great deal of disturbance. A great council of war of all the commanders -and officers was assembled to take into consideration, that though -there was now no walls left, yet it had hitherto been found impossible -to take the Castle; that a sedition of the janissaries, who are not -obliged to continue above forty days in the trenches, was to be feared; -that the winter was drawing near, when the Sea of Assov freezes, when -all communication would be intercepted, and no safety for the fleet -after the day of Kássim (S. Demetrius); that there would be no shelter -nor provisions for the army, the country of the Infidels being on the -north, and the salt steppes of Heihát on the east and south. After a -long consultation, in which all these topics were touched upon, Canán -Páshá and Piále Aghá, the Kiaya of the Arsenal, proposed to fix the -general assault for the next morning. The Fátíhah being read on this -resolution, great joy was spread in the Ottoman camp; seven thousand -swords, two thousand shields, two thousand muskets, five thousand bows, -forty thousand arrows, six thousand halberds, five thousand granades, -and many thousand other articles of arms were distributed amongst the -army, the cannons fired from seven sides and the shout of Allah raised -so that it filled the steppes of Kipchák. The Moslims rushed into the -castle and penetrated into the inmost recess of it, where they hoisted -the banner and proclaimed the prayer of Islám. - -The guns were now silenced, and the swords alone were clashing. During -seven hours and a half the Mussulmáns were raging in the castle like -wolves amongst sheep, and stained with blood like butchers. It was -a complete victory to which none can be compared excepting those of -Kossova and Mohacs. The rest of the Infidels hidden beneath the ground, -now set fire to the mines, and sent by that means great numbers of the -Moslim besiegers to Heaven; others shot them from the loopholes so that -they were in great distress. It being now near sunset, and the victors -being exhausted by fatigue and hunger, were called on to retire by the -Chaúshes, who admonished them to leave the end to the next day. They -carried an immense deal of booty with them, arms of all kinds and three -thousand heads of Infidels, besides one thousand and sixty prisoners. -A general salute was fired, and the martyrs buried, after the funeral -prayer was said over them. The wounded and maimed received pensions, -and were given into the hands of the surgeons. Those who brought -heads received a reward of a hundred piastres, and those who had made -prisoners were allowed to keep them. Chelenks, ziámets, timárs, and all -kind of military rewards were distributed, and the property of seven -hundred janissaries who were killed was made over to the revenue. Of -the troops on the seven sides of the attack one thousand two hundred -men became martyrs and ascended to Heaven. On this night the Infidels -made incredible efforts to repair the works of the castle, by raising -walls and digging ditches, opening loopholes and pointing guns. The -foundations of the castle resembled the wall of Gog and Magog, to the -great consternation of the Moslims, who solaced themselves, saying: -“Man proposes and God disposes,” recommending their business to God. -They continued the war, but not with the same unanimity, though not -with less zeal than before. A great council of war was held, under -the consideration that there now remained only forty days to Kássim -(S. Demetrius). The result of the council was, that Geraï-Khán, with -seventy thousand regular troops, and eight hundred thousand horse, -was ordered to ravage the provinces of Russia. So they did, and this -Tátár army returned on the 14th day to the Ottoman camp at Assov, with -forty-five thousand prisoners and two hundred thousand horses as booty, -besides a great number of valuable things, pelisses, rich cloth, &c. By -this arrival, the hearts of the Moslims were comforted, and those of -the Infidels afflicted, when they saw the triumphal procession with the -prisoners fettered, and the crosses upset. Since the time of Jenguíz -Khan the Tátárs had not made a richer booty. This sight raised a howl -among the Infidels in the castle, who pierced the skies with their -lamentations. The same night seventy Infidels, hungry and sad, left the -castle, and were brought into the presence of the Commander-in-Chief, -Hossein Páshá. Some of them embraced the Islám, and received presents, -then were sent altogether to the castle of Khoros Kermán near Assov. - -By this immense booty every thing became immensely cheap in the Ottoman -camp, so that a horse was sold for one piastre, a girl for five, and a -boy for six piastres. The safe return of the Tátár army was celebrated -by a triple salute of muskets and guns, and the whole camp illuminated -during the night. But winter drawing near, a new council was held, all -the seniors of the regular troops and of the Tátárs agreed, and signed -unanimously a petition of three hundred signatures of Vezírs, and -officers of all ranks, saying: “that for this year it was impossible to -take the castle, that one of the Russian Capitals had been laid waste, -that seventy thousand Infidels had been taken prisoners, and more than -one hundred thousand destroyed by the sword.” At the same time two of -the prisoners, who had been instructed accordingly, were sent back into -the castle to say; “that if the Turks had intended to take the castle, -they might have taken it in a month, but their object was to pillage -the Russian countries, and to return with a rich booty, which they -had now accomplished.” The same night as the messengers went off to -Constantinople there was such a hard frost that all the Moslim warriors -thought they could not stand it, and by this specimen found out that -the salt steppe of Heihát was as unmerciful as the Black Sea. At last -the despair of conquering the castle becoming general, the whole army -at once resolved to raise the siege. The trumpets were sounded, the -artillery and ammunition embarked and carried to Bálisíra, where the -fleet was lying at anchor. The army returned by different ways, some by -sea and some by land, to Constantinople; some by the desert of Kipchák -in six days and nights to the river Kúbán, to Circassia, Taman and -Crimea; some through the steppes (Heihát), returned by the north into -their native country Circassia. When the Imperial fleet weighed for -Constantinople I got permission, from the Commander-in-Chief Hossein -Páshá, to accompany the Khán of Crimea into his country, and the -Imperial fleet sailed, trusting in God, through the sea of Assov. - - - - -JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA. - - -I left Assov in company with the army of Geraï Khán of eighty thousand -men, and twenty thousand Infidels of Moldavia and Valachia, and -crossed the Tanais with them, which disembogues at the end of the sea -of Assov. The water being shallow in the great Don, it was passed by -eight hundred thousand horsemen without the least difficulty, the water -reaching only to the stirrups. The Tátárs tied their jacks and luggage -to the tails of their horses, and in the space of twenty-one hours, the -whole army reached the opposite steppes of Heihát. - -At the station of Búrebaí, opposite to the western side of Assov, -a branch of the Don flows in its way to the sea of Assov, where it -disembogues in three different channels; as it runs through reeds for a -great distance, it is not very sweet: the complexion of the inhabitants -on its shores is yellow, and they have a kind of excrescence or crop on -the neck. The whole army halted here, as on a pleasant flowery meadow, -and three hundred horses were slaughtered and eaten up that evening. It -was here that I ate horseflesh for the first time. Though I belonged to -the Tátár Khán, yet I lived with Kiá Beg of the tribe of Mássúrlí, who -have their Yúrds (encampments) in Crimea; the district of Mankis Eli on -the side of Gozlava is their Yúrd. Their horses are extremely fat, and -their flesh can hardly be distinguished from roes’ flesh, and is easy -to digest. Next morning the kettle-drums beat, and after a march of -nine hours we arrived at the river Sud, which the whole army crossed, -and halted on the other side, but the ground being extremely marshy, -one hundred horses and fifty slaves were lost in the marshes. This -river issues from the western mountains of Russia and here enters the -sea of Assov. The name Sud or milk-river is derived from its whitish -colour, which it contracts from the different metallic strata over -which it passes in its course. It is not good for drinking, and causes -crops or swellings on the necks of those who drink of it. There are -seventy cultivated towns and villages on both sides of this river, but -they are not very flourishing on account of the depredations of the -Crimea Tátárs. These places all belong to the Russians. - -We left this place and came to the river Mús, a large river which we -passed over with the greatest difficulty at this cold season, the arms -being all put in leather jacks. It is fresh water like that of the -Don, Dnieper, and Danube, and contains excellent fish. It comes from -the northern mountains of Russia. We crossed it, and next day when -the Kettle-drums were beaten for departure, the snow had fallen three -cubits deep. We slept that night on the snow of the field of Kipchák, -and arrived next day at the station of Búrúmbaí; here we slept again on -the snow, and on the following day after sixteen hours ride, reached -the frontier of Crimea. - -The moment we entered the castle of Orághzí, Kara Rejíb Aghá, the -Courier of the great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, with twenty horsemen -arrived from Constantinople, and after having heard the sad story -of the impossibility to take Assov, took letters from the Khán, -and returned to Constantinople. I poor Evlíya entered the town of -Bágcheseraï with the Khán, and was assigned a house there on the -borders of the valley of Chúrúksú (rotten water) where I quietly passed -the winter without travelling one step. But the Khán to prevent the -Infidels sending reinforcements to the castle of Assov, made three -excursions with between forty and fifty thousand horsemen even up to -the guns of Assov, bringing back prisoners. His Vezír (the Kalgha -Sultán) made also three expeditions into the interior of Russia, -and returned with ten thousand slaves and a great deal of booty to -Crimea. In the beginning of spring came Hassan Aghá the Chamberlain -of the Sublime Porte bringing to the Khán twelve thousand ducats as -boot-money, and an Imperial diploma commanding him to be ready to take -the field, with the commencement of the fine season, against Assov. The -Khán received the orders with all signs of submission and duty, the -horses were put to feed in the meadows for forty days, after which the -army broke up again to return to Assov, the garrison of which, weighing -all the hardships of siege, their losses, and the impossibility of -holding the fortress finally against the Ottoman power, abandoned it -and fled with their arms and effects to different other Castles. - -The Tátár Khán having arrived on the border of the river Sud, heard -of the flight of the garrison from some prisoners he had taken, and -made the greatest possible haste to reach the fortress. He found it -empty, not only of men, but also of animals, neither dog, cat nor -mouse being seen; only one Genoese tower remained standing. The Tátár -Khán then sent the welcome news to Constantinople. On the eleventh day -some Russian spies coming from Constantinople were taken and brought -before the Tátár Khán. They confessed freely and openly, that there -were forty spies at the Port, who, having been aware of the immense -preparations of the Ottoman Army, had given notice to the garrison to -leave the Castle, and that arriving there themselves, they had fallen -into the hands of the Tátárs. These three spies were beheaded. On -the 13th day of this month the Ottoman army arrived with great pomp, -commanded by Chowán Kapújí-báshí Vezir Mohammed Páshá, and found the -fortress empty. They ascribed it at first to some infernal stratagem of -the Infidels, and waited three days, on the fourth day Moslim prayer -was proclaimed, and all the Moldavians and Valachians were commanded -to work on the foundations and to build them anew. They dug three days -till they came to springs of water; the ships were all busy carrying -stones from an old Convent in the island of Timúrlenk, and the work of -building was begun. In one month two towers were finished, stronger -than the former Genoese towers, and the histories of Crimea record the -date of its building and name of the builder. It was declared the seat -of a Sanjak Beg belonging to the government of Kaffa, a Begler-Beg was -left as commander with twenty regiments of Janissaries, six regiments -of artillerymen, ten regiments of armourers, seven thousand Tátárs, -seven Sanjak Begs, and twelve Alaï Begs, with twenty-six thousand -men; seventy large guns on the bulwarks, and three hundred small ones -on the border of the ditch. The complete repair and fitting out cost -the sum of five thousand purses. During its building the Tátárs made -seven inroads into Russia, and returned with from fifteen to twenty -thousand prisoners to the Ottoman camp, so that the prisoners were -sold for no more than ten piastres each. At last the King of the -Moscovites imploring pardon and crying out, Amán! Amán! (pardon O -Family of Osmán!) sent ambassadors to Constantinople. The building -being nearly finished, the Commander-in-Chief Mahommed Páshá returned -to Constantinople, and the rest of the army got permission to return -to their homes. I again followed the tribe of Mássúrlí, and came with -them to Crimea. We took our pleasure for twenty days in Bágcheseraï, -then got permission from the Khán to return to Constantinople, with -a present of a purse of piastres, three slaves, a sable pelisse, and -a caftán. The Kalgha Sultán and Núr-ud-dín Sultán (the two first -dignities of the Tátár court) and fourteen Aghás, gave me a slave -each, so that I had a number of slaves and four purses of money; to -these slaves I added the eighteen which I had acquired on my travels -from Trebisonde to Mingrelia and Abaza, took leave of the Khán and all -the great men, and mounted on the horses of the Kalgha-Sultán, began -my journey in company with some friends, who remained with me till -we arrived at Káchidere. There we parted, all my friends returned to -Bágcheseraï, and I continued my way to the south for the space of six -hours to Báliklava. - - -_Description of the Castle of Báliklava._ - -Prevented by warlike expeditions from visiting with leisure the -curiosities of Crimea, I dare not give a description of it; such is -also the case with the castle of Báliklava. Having embarked here with -three hundred persons on board of the Shaika of Úchelí Sefer Reis, I -slept on board, troubled by heavy dreams; on the next day I went on -shore, to do away the evil of the night by some alms, and next day -got clear of the port in an evil hour, succeeded, as the text of the -Korán says, by worse days. One day and one night we went straight -before the wind, and were then about the middle of the Black Sea. The -mountains of Báliklava and Súlúyár had disappeared, neither were those -of Sinope and Amassra to be seen, and we were tossed about without well -knowing where we were going to. All at once an easterly gale sprung up -with thundering clouds, at the appearance of which the boatmen changed -colour, and began to wring their hands; they looked at the compass, -and then on each other, and already made up their minds to lose their -souls. An old sailor said to them; “Lads (Dais!) don’t you see the -forerunners of a tempest, what are you afraid of? Lower the topmast -with the sail.” This they did, but the ship going too heavy, they -threw the bags, mats, casks and trunks that were on deck into the sea; -they stowed two hundred young prisoners below (Enbár) and closed the -hatches. Thus the ship was lightened, but still terribly tossed by the -effect of the currents. Verse:— - - “If in the storm my bark drives on the strand, - What shall I do? none can the winds command.” - -On the fourth of Safer of the year 1055, the storm began to buffet us -most unmercifully, nothing but thunder and lightning, hail and torrents -of rain pouring down on us for three days and nights. The sailors -exhausted by fatigue all crept into one corner of the ship. Of the -passengers, some were vomiting, some praying, some vowing victims and -sacrifices, some alms and pilgrimages. I, poor Evliyá, said: “Come, -Servants of God, come and pray with me the Súra Ikhláss (deliverance) -which God may be pleased to grant to us.” All having began to recite -this Súra fervently, the weather cleared up, the storm ceased, but -the tossing of the ship continued in a most dreadful manner; the ship -now touched the highest heavens, and now descended into the deepest -of hells. The waves of the Black Sea towered before us like the -perpendicular walls of Mount Bisútún. At last we opened the magazine -(Enbár) and threw all the heavy merchandize into the sea, but again to -no purpose. We saw that the rudder was going to break, and to prevent -this all the sailors united and began to cut with hatchets, first the -stays, then the mast, which in falling into the sea killed eleven men. -Until their bodies were thrown overboard, there was such a howling in -the ship, that every body despaired of life, and felt that he must give -up his soul. At this moment there again came a puff of wind (Sighinák) -which threatening to tear the ship asunder drove all the prisoners and -slaves crying and lamenting out of the magazine; some held together, -clasping one another, some stripped naked, and all endeavouring to -lay hold of a plank or a cask. I, poor Evlíyá, feeling myself in a -state of agitation continued to pray the Súra-Yass, and recommended -all my things to God by saying the verse: “I recommend my business to -God,” and that: “Who fears God shall find a place to walk out, and -shall find his lot provided, from whence he did not expect it; and who -trusts in God shall not be abandoned by him.” While repeating these -prayers I saw that some Infidels (prisoners) got hold of the launch, -and let it down by ropes, at the same time some other sailors were -throwing themselves on the other side, with planks, into the sea. I, -and seven of my companions watching the moment of the launch going down -threw ourselves into it; the Infidels instantly cut the ropes, and two -of them, attacked with a knife Ramazán Chelebí of Aintáb. My seven -companions immediately drew their swords against the eight Infidels -who had raised their hands against us, and killed four of them; the -four others throwing themselves into the sea from fright, we remained -masters of the launch. We threw all heavy luggage overboard, and the -launch being now light and tossed by the waves, I saw how the great -ship was cleft asunder from stem to stern, and three hundred and fifty -passengers, merchants, and four hundred slaves were spread over the -sea, some going to the bottom, some trying to be saved by swimming, -some on planks, and some trying to reach our boat, of whom we took in -the story-teller Emír Chelebí. When we laid hold of him, others came up -swimming, and we were soon convinced, that if we took them in we should -all go to the bottom together, we, therefore, sword in hand, kept off -all those who offered to lay hold of the launch. The wreck of the ship -had now disappeared with all the men, and while we continued tossing up -and down, our turbans heavy with the water, we perceived the Judge of -Menkúb, Alí Efendí, swimming like an angel of the Ocean. By the hand of -Divine power he was brought near our boat, and we took him in, so that -there were now ten of us in it. We continued to pray the Súra-Yass, -and drove on, baling out the water, and all despairing of life. Thus -we drove a day and night, all shivering with cold, naked and starved, -crying and lamenting. The story-teller and the judge were attacked by a -fit of apoplexy, we threw their corpses into the sea, and were reduced -as before to eight persons; but we had the misfortune to have a large -piece of timber twenty cubits length and one yard in breadth, which -drove along with the boat, touching it from time to time without our -being able to prevent it. - -On the third day at noon a wave came which upset the boat, and I -fell head-foremost into the sea; being a good swimmer I worked with -all my strength, recommended myself to the Lord, to the intercession -of the Korán, and all the Saints, all the great and pious men I had -hitherto known on my travels, and by this kind of effort, keeping my -head clear, I swam undaunted. I saw that the large piece of timber, -which had before swam alongside our boat, was passing near to me, and -instantly laid hold of it, encircling it like a serpent. Driving in -this way, shivering and starved, all at once I heard a noise behind -me, and looking round I saw two Georgian boys, two Circassian girls -and a Russian slave, who had all laid hold of the long piece of timber -on which I was driving. I was much afraid that their weight would sink -the timber, and was just thinking how to get rid of my companions in -misfortune, when an empty cask driving by, the Russian slave wished to -get hold of it, and threw himself into the sea for that purpose, but -not being able to reach it he was drowned, and only the four slaves -remained. The storm was now completely clearing-up, the sea going down, -and the next day land coming in sight, we were thrown on the shore -exhausted and half-dead. I threw myself on the ground, to praise God -and to thank his infinite mercy, who having taken away from me eighteen -slaves acquired in my travels in Mingrelia and Abaza, again made me -a present of four slaves, two fine boys and two pretty girls. Being -thrown into an inlet of the rocks, some good people gave us dresses -to cover our nakedness, and hoisted us up the rocks which appeared to -pierce the skies. Having asked where I was, I was told that these were -the mountains of Kilghra in the sanjak of Silistra. Thus I had been -driven three days in the boat from the moment the ship went down, and -after the boat was upset, twenty-four hours on the timber, till I was -thrown on the shore at Kilghra, with the Dervishes of which place I -immediately began a devotional conversation, and occupied the cells, -which they assigned to me and my slaves. - - -_Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán._ - -This building is ascribed to Sárí Sáltik Sultán, who having been -ordained a Dervish in the town of Yassú by Ahmed Yassúí, came with -Hájí Begtásh and three hundred poor people to Sultán Orkhán, and was -sent after the conquest of Brússa into Russia and Poland, Bohemia and -Dobrúja. Hají Begtásh gave him a wooden sword, a carpet, a banner, a -drum, kettle-drum and trumpet. Kilghra Sultán with seventy disciples -spread the hide (on which they sat) upon the sea, and went, praying, -drums beating and banners flying, from Rúmelí to Crimea, and from -thence to the people of Heshdek in Moscovy and Lipka in Poland. At -Danzig he conversed with Svíty Nicola the patriarch, whose name is the -same as Sárí Sáltik whom he killed, adopted his habit, and by this -means converted many thousands to Islám. Thus he travelled many years -under the name of Sárí Sáltik, and being himself yellow-coloured (as -Sárí Sáltik was) he obtained from Ahmed Yassúí the name of the yellow -Beg. But his proper name is Mohammed Bokhara, and he settled afterwards -at Paravadí. The King of Dobrúja requested a miracle from Sárí Sáltik -in confirmation of his mission. There was then in Dobrúja a terrible -dragon, to which even the two daughters of the King were allotted as -food. Sárí Sáltik agreed to deliver the two girls, on condition that -they with their father would embrace Islám. He went to the column to -which they were tied as victims for the dragon, accompanied by his -seventy Dervishes, who were beating drums and swinging the banner; -untied the Princesses, and then waited with his wooden sword, expecting -the dragon himself, meanwhile the seventy Dervishes beat the drum. The -dragon coming near, Sárí Sáltik addressed it with the verse of the -Korán beginning;—“Greeting on Noe in both worlds,” and then cut off -three of his heads, so that the dragon fled with the remaining four. -Sárí Sáltik followed him up to his cave, at the entrance of which he -cut off the remainder with his wooden sword, and followed the dragon -into his den. The beheaded dragon began to struggle with the Saint and -to press him against the rock, which gave way so wonderfully as to -receive the Saint’s body, which place with the marks of his hands and -feet are still actually shewn. The dragon having exhausted his strength -fell to the ground dead, and the Saint, with his bloody breast and -bloody wooden sword, now led the two girls to their father the king. -Previous to their arrival a cursed monk, who had shewn to Sáltik Súltán -the road to the column, and picked up there the tongues and ears of the -three heads cut off, had laid them before the king, boasting that he -had killed the dragon. Now, though the daughters asserted the contrary, -yet the monk persisting in his boast, the Saint proposed as a proof, -to be boiled with the monk in a cauldron, and though the monk did not -like this kind of trial, yet by order of the king he was obliged to -undergo it. Sárí Sáltik was tied up by his Dervishes, and the monk by -his companions, and both put into a cauldron heated by an immense fire. -It was at this hour that Hájí Begtásh, who was then at Kírshehrí in -Anatolia swept with a handkerchief a dripping rock, saying: “My Sáltik -Mahomed is now in great anxiety, God assist him!” Ever since that day -salt-water has dropped from that rock, and from thence the salt called -Hájí Begtásh is produced. The place where this cauldron was heated is -shewn at the present day, and the mountain is called the mountain of -the cauldron Kazán Balkání. The cauldron being opened Sárí Sáltik was -found sweating and saying: “Ya Hayí, O all vivifying;” and of the monk -nothing remained but black coals and burnt bones. The King of Dobrúja -moved by this miracle, instantly embraced Islám, with seven thousand -of his subjects; he sent ambassadors to Sultán Orkhán, and received -from him in exchange, the appointment of a Judge, a tail and a banner. -His name was Alí Mokhtár. In the same year Sárí Sáltik made his will, -wherein he commanded seven coffins to be made, because seven kings were -to contend for his body after his death. This happened indeed as he -foretold, because being washed after death and put into the coffin, -seven kings claimed to have the true body, which was found in every -one of the seven coffins when opened. The seven kings who desired to -be possessed of the true body were the King of Muscovia, where Sárí -Sáltik is held in great veneration under the name of Svíty Nicola; the -King of Poland, where his tomb is much frequented at Danzig; the King -of Bohemia, where his coffin is shewn in the town of Pezzúnijah (?) -and in Sweden at Bívánjah (?). The fifth King was of Adrianople, where -his tomb is in the Convent of the town of Batúria which is now a large -place called Baba-eskissí, and is visited by those, who travel from -Constantinople to Adrianople. The sixth King was that of Moldavia, who -buried it in a shady place near the Castle of Bozák, where Báyazíd II. -after the conquest of Akkermán, built a mosque, an imáret, a college, a -bath, a khán and a monument for Sárí Sáltikdedeh; this town is called -Babatághí; a pleasant town all belonging to the endowments of Sárí -Sáltik. The seventh coffin was taken possession of by Alí Mokhtár the -converted King of Dobrúja, who buried it at Kilghra in the cave of the -Dragon, and hence he is called Kilghra Sultán; Kilghra signifies in -Latin a seven-headed dragon, it is the purest Latin. Of these seven -burial-places of this Saint, three are in the Ottoman Empire, from -which he is called Baba Sultán at Babatágh; Sárí Sáltik Sultán at -Baba-Eskissí; and here, Kilghra Sultán; in Christian countries he is -generally called St. Nicolas, is much revered and the Christian monks -ask alms under his auspices. - -The Convent is situated on a cape which extends into the Black Sea like -the proboscis of an Elephant. The ships that sail from Constantinople -to Kara Khirmen, Kostenjí, and Kilí pass along these rocks of Kilghra -directly opposite to those of Sinope, and if the weather is clear, are -mutually seen from both shores. The cave in which Sárí Sáltik killed -the dragon is at the same time his burial place. The convent was built -by Alí Mokhtár; the wooden sword of the Saint, his swing, half-drum, -kettle-drum, drum, banner and sanjak are kept here, numerous cells -surround it, occupied by learned and virtuous Dervishes, who reside -here on their hides, all true Sunnis and faithful believers, more than -one hundred. They read with me more than eight months according to the -method of Hafss. The windows of the Convent, and of the monument, all -look towards the sea. The magnificent kitchen like that of Keikavús -is worth seeing; day and night the fire is kept up on the stove for -passengers and strangers, they have no endowments but live on alms; -they are all purified by mystic divine love. To the right and left of -the mountain are many wells in the rocks. The rocks being perpendicular -like those of Mount Bisútún are excavated at the base. The projecting -rocks are so lofty that ships with topmasts an hundred yards high -may enter here, and come to an anchor. The masters of these ships -take in barley and wheat which is brought in waggons to the mouths of -the aforesaid shafts which are cut in the rock, and poured down them -into the holds; these shafts were cut in ancient times by Infidel -stonecutters, who were like so many Ferháds; and it is a peculiar sight -not to be seen elsewhere, and saves a circuit of between three and four -hours in bringing the barley to the foot of the rock. There are no such -high and dreary rocks any where in the Black Sea. During southernly -and easternly gales, the sea produces a roaring in the excavations, -which is heard as far as Iflatár and Ilhánlar near Silistra, a day’s -journey from hence. On the top of these rocks are nests of eagles each -as large as a sheep, they are even killed and eaten by some for mutton. -Near the Convent is the Castle of Kilghra, which was taken by Mússa -Chelebí out of the hands of the Infidels. It belongs to the district -of Bálchik in the government of Ozakov. It is a small but strong -square castle on the seashore, twenty paces in circumference, with a -gate opening to the west, it has neither mosque or khán, commander -or garrison. Being situated on a limestone cliff it has no ditch on -one side; on the east side is a precipice of one hundred fathoms; the -lower part of this castle is also excavated, like the rocks of the -convent. When Nassif Páshá Zadeh Hossein was governor of Ozakov, these -shores were sometimes infested by the Cossacks and Infidel Russians, -who made prisoners of the inhabitants. Hossein Páshá then renewed this -castle at his own expense, and garrisoned it, so that the shores were -protected from inroads; but the Great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, having -taken away the garrison in order to mortify Hossein Páshá, the castle -remained deserted. Praise be to God, that after having escaped the -dangers of the sea, and being delivered from it before, as the bird of -the soul left the cage of the body, I passed eight months here in sweet -conversation, till at the commencement of the spring I took leave of my -friends and returned to Constantinople. - - -_Return to Constantinople._ - -In the spring of 1054, I took leave of Kilghra Sultán and embarking -with my four slaves coasted the shore of the Black Sea, so that at -the least storm I could come to an anchor. Thus I passed on my road, -Kavarna, Bálchik, Varna, Ahiebolí, Sízebolí, Missivra, Búrghás, -Chenkina, the island of mirrors (Aina adassí or Inada) and the strong -castle of Torkoz. Near this place is the flowery meadow, and pleasant -place of Skúmrí-jair where the janissaries and kúrújis are encamped, -and from hence watch over the security of the adjacent villages, -because some years ago these shores were infested by Cossacks. From -hence we came to the black stones (Cyanies), a rocky ground outside of -the mouth of the Bosphorus. It was changed into stone by a woman’s -distaff, and is a curious sight. We passed it, and in God’s name -entered the channel of Constantinople, anchoring before the Castle -of Kavák. I went on shore, and thanked God for the happy escape from -the dangers of the Black Sea. The length of the Black Sea from the -Bosphorus to Trebisonde at the mouth of the Phasus is fifteen hundred -miles, the shores of the Abáza are seventeen hundred miles, and to -the corner of the sea of Assov two thousand miles; seventeen hundred -large and small streams fall into it. The largest is the Danube, which -receives seven hundred rivers in its course, and disembogues into the -Black Sea by five branches, at Kili, Túlja, Súlina, and Kara-khirmen; -the Phasus, and Chúrúgh on the Asiatic side. The Kúbán near the -castle of Tamán, the river of Assov, the river of Ozakov, and the -Dniester; on the Asiatic shore the Kizil Irmák, the Wesnesday river, -and the Sakaria. From Constantinople to Caffa is reckoned one thousand -miles, to Báliklava eleven hundred, to A’kkermán fifteen hundred, to -Varna five hundred; from the point of Kilghra to that of Sinope five -hundred, from the mouth of the Bosphorus to Amassra one thousand, and -to Heraclea one hundred. The whole circuit of the Black Sea, with that -of Assov, is six thousand and sixty miles, and if made by land is one -hundred and fifty days or five months journey, each day’s journey to -be reckoned twelve hours. As soon as I arrived at Constantinople I -hastened to Eyyúb to read once more the Korán there, having performed -which I went to my parents, who received me with the greatest kindness. -I swore never to try the navigation of the Black Sea any more. May God -guard from its misfortunes all the faithful people of Mohammed. I then -became the Imám of the Inspector of the mouth, and soon found by the -presents from my friends, compensation for the loss I sustained in the -Black Sea, of my eighteen slaves and other things. - - - - -EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE YEAR 1055 (1645). - - -The Kizlar Aghá of Sultán Ibrahím Sunbul Aghá after his dismissal -from the Seraï, embarked for Egypt with fifty fair slave girls, and -as many boys, and forty horses of the best breed, in the Caravel of -Ibrahím Chelebí. He stowed all his riches for three months into the -six magazines of this Caravel, and went on board with five hundred -armed men of his suite, three hundred merchants, two hundred sailors, -and Ezírí Mohammed Efendí who was exiled into Egypt; altogether one -thousand three hundred persons, who sailed on Friday, trusting in -God. Near Rodos they met six Maltese Galleys, with whom they had an -engagement of twenty four hours, during which the horses getting -loose increased the confusion of battle. The Caravel was dismasted and -dismantled, and except two hundred men all the rest fell martyrs. The -owner of the ship upbraiding the Kizlar Aghá, said unto him: “Cursed -Arab did I not tell thee not to put horses into the ship, but rather -to take in stores and ammunition; but thou didst obtain an Imperial -order, hast overloaded the ship, and in that way given up to the -Infidels.” Thus saying, he with his sword severed the Kizlar Aghá’s -head from his body, and was himself at the same moment cut into pieces -by the suite of the Eunuch, who rushed on him with drawn swords. The -Infidels witnessing this fact, boarded the ship, fought for three hours -more on board of it, made the rest of the men including Ezírí Mohammed -Efendí prisoners and took the ship directly into the harbour of Canea, -where they came to an anchor. Here they remained a month selling the -horses and slaves, and violating all the girls. Some prudent monks -and patricians said: “Woe to us, better would it have been not to see -this Ottoman ship in this town, with its horses and girls, because a -prophecy exists, that if this happened, the island would fall into -the hands of the Moslíms.” This rumour being spread was the cause of -many families emigrating from the island, the population of which -then consisted of four hundred thousand Greeks, and seventy six towns -and castles were garrisoned by sixteen thousand Soldiers. This is the -account obtained at that time by my Lord Alí Aghá the inspector of -the custom house. The Emperor being much hurt at the unhappy accident -of the Kizlar Aghá, immediately sent for the Venetian Bailo, accusing -him and his whole mission with a breach of the peace, by allowing the -Maltese to sell Ottoman goods in their harbour. They kissed the earth -and said: “Gracious Emperor, our capitulations stated, that if your -Imperial fleet conduct prizes of Infidel ships into our ports, we are -to receive them as guests. God forbid that we should intend to break -the peace, we were forced by the Maltese Infidels to admit them.” The -Emperor then asked, if they would assist him with men and ships; they -promised readily to furnish three hundred ships, on which they were -invested with robes of honour, and lulled by these means into the -sleep of hares. Three thousand purses were issued from the Imperial -treasury for the preparations for war, and Kapijí-Báshís sent to one -hundred and fifty districts on the side of Jáínak, Sinope, Amassra, -Ergelí, Koja Ilí and Isnikmíd, to buy and get ready timber for three -hundred ships. From the mountains A’alemtágh and Kapútágh (in the -neighbourhood of Constantinople) wood was brought in abundance, so that -all the magazines of the arsenal were full of it. The ship-builders of -all the Islands were called in, and every week a galley was launched. -An Imperial High Admiral’s Ship (Bashtarda, Head tartana,) and ten -Maúnas were built, and the Arsenal swarmed with busy men. Vezírs were -sent into Rúmelí and Anatoli to collect armies, Khassekís and the -standard-bearer of the prophet were dispatched to Algiers, Tunis, and -Tripolis, with twelve thousand ducats of powder-money, and Imperial -rescripts exhorting them to join the Capitan Páshá in the spring. It -was generally reported, that this expedition was planned against Malta, -but the Emperor, the Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and the Muftí were alone -in the secret. The following was the Fetva proposed and given by the -Mufti. - -_Query_:—If the Infidels are possessed of a land, which was formerly in -the possession of Moslíms, if they have defiled its mosques, colleges -and oratories with their superstitions, if they plunder Mussulman -merchants and pilgrims, can the Emperor of the Islám, moved by his zeal -for the house of God, wrest these countries from the hands of Infidels, -and add them to the Mussulman territory? - -_Answer_:—God knows everything best. Peace with the Infidels is but -legal, if advantageous to all Moslíms, but if not, it is not legal at -all. As soon as it is useful, it is also allowed to break the peace, be -it concluded for a fixed time, or for ever. This is justified by the -example of the Prophet, who having concluded peace with the Infidels, -which was broken by Alí in the 6th year of the Hejíra, took the field -against them in the 8th year, and conquered Mecca. The Emperor has but -imitated the Sunna of the Prophet. God bless his victories. This was -written by the poor despised Abú Sá’id. - -The Emperor took this Fetva and stuck to it like to a cable of safety; -he went the same day to visit the tomb of Eyyúb, was twice girt there -by the Muftí with the sword of Omar, in anticipation of victory, -and then went to the Arsenal, where two hundred galleys were fitted -out and filled with troops. Fifty other galleys were ready at the -landing-place of the Flour-hall; thirty-six regiments of janissaries, -ten of artillerymen, and ten of armourers, were embarked in great -transport ships, Maúna. The governor of Rúmelí with the troops of -twenty-four sanjaks, with all the Tímariots and Zaims forming an army -of twenty-two thousand, and with the Jebellís of twenty-seven thousand -men, was ordered to repair to the Dardanelles; the troops of Morea, -Sirmium, Semendra, Bosna, and Herzogavina, were ordered to embark at -the castle of Benefshe in the island of Morea. The governor of Anatoli -with the army of his fourteen sanjaks, and the men of one hundred and -ninety-nine military fiefs, amounting to five thousand five hundred -and eighty-nine men, with the Jebellís and the household of the Páshá, -altogether twenty thousand men, were also commanded to the Dardanelles -on the Asiatic side. The governors of Damascus, Haleb, Diarbekr, -Mera’ash, Adana, Karamán, Sivás, and Trebisonde, with seventy thousand -men received similar orders. At the same time that the Kapíjí-báshís -and Khassekís, who had been sent to collect those troops, reported -that they were ready at the Dardanelles, the cavalry had been embarked -at Constantinople. At the beginning of spring, the whole fleet was -ready, consisting of two hundred galleys, tartanas, galliots, twelve -large Maúna, one hundred Firkata, Caravella, galleons, pinks, Bútáj, -Shaitie, Shaika and Karamursal, with a great number of pioneers and -miners on board. Altogether seven hundred ships, were anchored before -the point of the Seraglio. - -At the Sinán Koshk the Úlemas and all the great men waited on the -Emperor; the Vezírs, Begler-begs, Captains, Aghás, and Colonels, going -to war, one thousand seven hundred individuals, were invested with -magnificent dresses. The Commander-in-Chief Yússúf Páshá, the great -Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and the Muftí alone remained with the Emperor, -the rest having already gone on board. Sultán Ibrahím took the Vezír -and Commander-in-Chief each by the hand, went with them into a corner, -and said: “Yússúf, where art thou going to.” Yússúf Páshá answered, -“To Malta if it please God,” and Ibrahim replied, “If it please God, -by the destination of the all vivifying, all standing, have I given to -thee the destination to go to the island of Crete. Keep this a secret -to thyself, and continue to say thou art going to Malta; take that -direction with the fleet first, remain a couple of days on the shores -of Morea, and then sail back to Candia; disembark the troops before -daybreak, and take possession of St. Todero, so as to have a firm post, -from whence to begin the siege of Canea. These are my instructions, -if thou return victorious, (if it please God) I’ll reward you to a -degree that you shall appear with a brilliant face before God. Keep -your secret well, according to the maxim, which commands every man to -hide three things, Zeheb, Zeháb, and Mezheb, viz. his gold, his walks, -his sect.” After this instruction Yússúf Páshá was invested with two -golden robes one above the other, and Sultán Ibrahím said; “Go now with -God, who will assist thee.” He went on board the High Admiral’s ship, -Bashdarda, and the astronomers of the Court having fixed the favourable -moment for getting under weigh, the Commander-in-Chief gave the order -to the High Admiral, and at the same time five hundred clarions -sounded; from the Admiral’s ship the shouts of Allah! allah! pierced -the air, and the skies were rent with the noise of muskets and guns. -The shouts and salutes were repeated three times, and the Admiral’s -ship took the lead, the music playing the tune Segáh. Passing the -Sinán-koskh the Commander-in-Chief saluted the Emperor and the Great -Vezír, and the other ships followed like a row of cranes, keeping up -such a heavy fire, that the birds of heaven found themselves so many -salamanders in the midst of fire, like Abraham in the oven of Nimrod. -I, poor Evliyá, accompanied this expedition as Chief Moëzzin of the -Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf Páshá, was messmate of Ibrahím Chelebí, -Clerk of the Treasury, on board of the Bashdarda, and passed my time -pleasantly eating dates and diavolini (Kotrobunát). - - -_Station of Gallipolis._ - -The fleet anchored here after a salute fired from the fortress, and -repeated by the whole fleet. The Mussulman victors all went to the -arsenal to hasten the embarkation of the European troops on board of -fifty barbaresque vessels, and on the opposite side in the harbour of -Chárdák, the Asiatic troops were also doing the same. In twenty-four -hours every thing was completed, and next day the fleet weighed anchor -again amidst the noise of muskets and guns. We passed Tenedos (Búzja -Ada); ten Firkata were sent on ten miles a-head to keep a good look -out. Their captains were invested with robes of honour, and promised -to be made Begs of the Imperial arsenal (post captains). We passed -Tine (Istendíl) which belonged to the Venetians, who sent presents -on board the Admiral’s ship, but no notice was taken of them, and we -sailed by. We passed Thera (Degirmenlik), an Ottoman island belonging -to the khass of the Captain Páshá, weathered the point of Temashalik -(Sunium), passed Athens, the castle of Termísh in Morea, and stopped at -Napoli (di Romania), a strong castle at the end of a great port, where -we took in provisions for the troops of twenty-seven Rumelian sanjaks; -we did the same at Benefshe, which is an open place with no port; -passed Candia, taking no notice, as if we were going to Malta, passed -Cerigo and Cerigotto also belonging to the Venetians, the fortresses of -Coron and Modon, and the island of Borák, a small island near Morea, -till we came to Navarin. This is a large port defended by two castles, -one on the shore, the other on high rocks. Here we came to anchor -and discharged the lading of ten heavy transport ships (Chakálgemí) -of the Arsenal, shifting their cargoes of troops and artillery on -to lighter ones. During our stay here, the commanders of Zante and -Cephalonia, Venetian Islands, sent presents of powder and lead to the -Commander-in-Chief, wishing him a happy voyage and success in the -expedition; seeing that every thing was directed against Malta, they -returned with great satisfaction. We took on board here three thousand -brave Albanians, and also took in water, because a great fresh water -river disembogues into the sea at the extremity of this port. - -On the third day the flag was hoisted, the trumpet of departure -sounded, and nine hundred small and large ships left the port. -The two captains Karabaták and Dúrák with ten small Firkata were -at the head, as look-out ships, leading towards Malta, which was -thought by the whole of the fleet to be its destination. At noon the -Commander-in-Chief turned round on a sudden, made signals for the -whole fleet to do the same, and again passed by Cerigo, the Castle of -which now began to light fires, and fire signal guns. At sunset we were -before Candia, and before daybreak the whole fleet anchored opposite -the castle of St. Todero on the north side of the island at the harbour -of Súda. Troops and two light guns (culverines) were disembarked with -the necessary ammunition, the castle assailed, and in less than two -hours forced to surrender. At sunrise the Infidels marched out and -were embarked in ships for Cerigo. The ships were now secured in the -port, and large guns placed behind gabions to defend them. The two -governors of Karamán and Adana were left in garrison, and the whole -fleet anchored at the harbour of the Lazaret, close to Canea. The whole -army disembarked with their tents, seventy great guns (Bályemez), forty -falconets, and two hundred small guns (Sháhitop) and encamped out of -reach of gun shot. The fleet anchored in the port of the Lazaret safe -against all possible winds, and the Begs (Captains) of the Barbareses -received orders to cruise with seventy Firkata. The Shaikas and Kara -Múrsal also now disembarked their cargoes, and the governor of Sivás -was commanded to watch over the security of the port, which is situated -on the west side of Canea. Praise be to God, it was taken very easily. -It is situated sixty miles distance from Cape Kabájá in Morea, and its -conquest as well as that of St. Todero, was first thought necessary -for the facility of passing troops from Morea. Great batteries were -raised and furnished with large guns to protect the fleet lying in it, -meanwhile Firkatas were keeping the open sea at twenty and thirty miles -distance as guardships, (Karaúl Kúllik). - - -_Siege of the Fortress of Canea._ - -The camp being pitched round the Castle of Canea at a gun-shot’s -distance, and every man having taken his post according to the orders -of the Commander-in-Chief, the janissaries first entered the trenches. -The next day the Commander-in-Chief held a grand review in sight of the -Infidels, and in defiance of them, who were confounded at this show -of the Ottoman power. As soon as he had dismounted at his tent, forty -thousand men with shovels and axes began to work on the trenches at -seven points round the fortress. (1) On the south side the Aghá of the -janissaries, in whose company the Commander-in-Chief himself entered -the trenches. (2) The governor of Anatoli, with ten regiments and the -Zagarjí-bashí. (3) The governor of Rúmelí with ten regiments headed -by the Samsúnjí-bashí. (4) The governor of Sivás with five regiments -headed by the Khassekí. (5) On the east side at the silver bulwark, -the Barbareses opened the trenches. (6) On the west side at the golden -bulwark, the governor of Haleb, with three regiments of Zenberekjí. In -short, the attack was carried on from seven points. The north side -bordering on the sea and the port was alone unable to be attacked by -trenches, which were opened on all other points of the compass. The -Infidels having enjoyed peace ever since the conquest of Cyprus, their -artillery and arsenals were in the highest state of perfection. During -seven days and nights they fired forty thousand guns and many hundred -thousand musket-shot; seven thousand men became martyrs being killed -in the trenches, and their property taken possession of by the fiscus. -But the Moslím victors encouraged by the presence and the gifts of the -Commander-in-Chief, advanced with undaunted steadiness, and arrived -on the tenth day at the edge of the ditch. Seven batteries with large -guns were battering the walls on seven sides. During twenty days and -nights the fire continued to rage from both sides. The Moslims at last -began to raise mounds of earth on the side of the sand bulwark, which -being perceived by the garrison, they burned the Moslims with shells -and grenades. This way of continuing the siege above ground being -found impracticable, it was carried on by mines under ground. On the -west side of the town, where the Lazaret is established, a mine of -three mouths was blown up, and with it seventy yards of the wall, with -all the Infidels upon it, who were sent through the sky to hell. The -Infidels witnessing this artful mining, imitated it, they passed under -the ditch and blew the mounds of earth with a couple of hundred men -into the air; so that the air was obscured by the dust for more than an -hour’s time. The Mussulman victors not caring for this, exhorted one -another, and the volunteers brought in heads and prisoners whom they -caught at the breaches. The Commander rewarded those who brought heads -with fifty, and those who brought prisoners with an hundred ducats, -making them besides a present of the men and distributing ziámets and -timárs. - -The Faithful devoting themselves with heart and soul, penetrated -sometimes into the interior of the fortress, from whence they brought -heads and prisoners, and amongst the last even the son of the -commanding general. But this day was a bloody one, which cost many -lives. - -One day an Infidel descending on a rope-ladder, came into the -Commander-in-Chief’s tent, and said he had good news to tell -him, if he would promise the safety of his house and family. The -Commander-in-Chief granted immediately what he asked, and promised to -give him the command of the Infidels besides. He then confirmed his -promise by an oath, and tied a handkerchief of pardon round his neck. -Then the Infidel said that there were two parties in the castle, the -Greeks who wished to surrender, and the Venetians who wished to defend -themselves to the last man. The latter were assembled on the side of -the harbour, where the fortress had not yet been battered, he advised, -therefore, to disturb them by a battery raised on that side, and -to throw into the Greek quarter, some arrows only, with flattering -promises to the Greeks. This advice having been followed, ten Greeks -came, who embraced Islám, and received Mussulman names. The siege -was, however, continued with the same zeal. On the east side of the -harbour a great bastion was raised, from which the high houses and -palaces of the Infidels near the port were battered, and where cries -and lamentations pierced the skies. The same day orders were issued to -all Captains of the Navy, and to the Begs of the Barbareses, to keep -a good watch, and twelve Maúnas were ordered to batter the port, and -the sea side of the town. This raised a great outcry there, but some -of the shots injuring the camp, other orders were issued to the chief -gunner of the fleet. The Infidels never relaxing in their fire and -their stratagems, there was no day without a couple of hundred falling -martyrs. It would be too tedious to relate all the memorable events of -this siege; in short, one day the Infidels seeing forty thousand brave -men with drawn swords and heavy shields, ready to assail the walls, -hoisted the white flag of surrender, crying, “Amán, amán, O exquisite -family of Osmán!” No regard being paid to this, and the firing -continuing as before, some Captains came out by the breaches, asking -for a respite of ten days. The Commander-in-Chief answered, “You will -walk out to-morrow, or all fall victims to the sword.” This was agreed -to. Some of them remained in the tent of the Commander-in-Chief, some -went into the castle and returned with the answer, that next morning -they would all be ready to surrender. The Janissaries, Sipáhis, Jebejis -and Topjis, instantly took possession of the walls and the artillery, -and during the night, the Infidels were embarked for their cursed -country. The next day the Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, salutes of -guns and muskets fired, and those salutes repeated thrice from time to -time during three days. The ships of the Infidels steering eastward to -the Castles of Retimo and Candia, their General when he saw and heard -these rejoicings, when he heard the profession of Islám proclaimed from -the belfries, when he saw the crosses upset and the green banner of -Mohammed waving on the spires, could not bear such a sight, but blinded -himself. The whole fleet now entered the harbour, and messengers were -sent to Constantinople with the good news. Seventy-seven tartanas and -galleys, and fifty barbaresque ships, came to an anchor. All the stores -and ammunition were disembarked, and large batteries raised on the -shore to mount the guns on. The troops were occupied in cleansing the -trenches and ditches, and repairing the walls; thus the castle became -ten times stronger than it was before; all the churches were converted -into mosques, and the first Friday prayer performed in the mosque of -Sultán Ibrahím. The streets were adorned with shops and lighted with -lamps during the night. The clarions sounded after the prayer was -performed, the shouts of Allah pierced the skies, and a triple salute -was fired, the report of which shook not only Rome and Irak, but the -whole of earth and Heaven. - -The sixth day after the conquest of the castle, a fleet of a hundred -sail bearing the Venetian, Tuscan, and Popish flag came to the -assistance of it; but when they saw the port full of the Ottoman fleet, -and the ships of the Barbareses cruising before it, when they saw the -belfries turned into minarehs, and the Crescents in the place of the -Crosses, they sighed heavily, “Good-by Canea! Good-by Canea!” and -sailed in despair for Súda. The Ottoman victors found in the conquered -fortress all the slaves and girls of the late Kislar Agassí embarked -on board the galleon of Ibrahím Chelebí, all his precious things, and -high-bred horses; they revenged the blood shed, and turned the Convents -of their monks and nuns into those of Dervishes. The contest at this -siege was scarcely so heavy and bloody as at the sieges of Assov, -Eriván and Baghdád, which have been celebrated by eloquent writers. -The Commander-in-Chief sent messengers and letters to nine towns and -fortresses of the island, and to the Rayas in the interior of the -island in the mountains of Assfákia, summoning them to pay tribute, -to surrender to the Sultán the keys of their castles, and to enjoy -ease and plenty under the protection of the Emperor; threatening those -who would not comply with this demand, with the havoc of their lands, -slavery of their families, and death to themselves by the sword. Within -seven days came three hundred deputies from all places and villages -in the island to pay obeisance and bring presents. The rest of the -island not having submitted, the Vezírs and Begler-Begs received -orders to send the Ottoman victors to collect the legal tithes. From -seventy to eighty thousand men were immediately dispersed over the -seven hundred and seventy miles of the island, taking booty, day and -night, in the ways of God. Gold, silver, brass vessels, fine boys, and -pretty girls, were carried in immense numbers to the Ottoman camp, -where there was such an abundance that a boy or girl was sold for -eighteen piastres. Some thousand men of the army, seeing such plenty, -settled in the island. Kuchúk Hassan Pashá with seventeen Begler-Begs, -seventy Alaï-Begs, and all the Zaims and Timariots, remained at Canea, -besides the garrison of regular troops, consisting of twenty-seven -regiments of janissaries, ten regiments of artillery, ten regiments of -armourers, four regiments of cavalry, and three thousand men, Egyptian -troops; altogether seventy-seventy thousand men. In the castle remained -seven thousand seven hundred Azabs, and forty ships were left for the -transport of troops from Menkeshe, besides fifty firkata manned with an -hundred stout lads. - -The Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf, took leave of all the Vezírs and -great men, and weighed anchor with a favourable wind, and sailed for -Constantinople. He passed with a fleet of two hundred sail before -Cerigo and Cerigotto, destroyed the repairs of the Mainotes at the -Cape of Maina in Morea, with the Castle of Killí situated on the same -point; passed the Cape of Capospada, and the Castle of Menkeshí, and -came to anchor at Napoli. After a stay of three days a council was -held, and it was resolved to lay waste the Island of Istendil (Tine), -belonging to the Venetians. At the moment the fleet was sailing, an -Imperial rescript arrived from Constantinople congratulating the -Commander-in-Chief on his victories, and rewarding him with an Imperial -robe of honour, and a sword and cutlass set with jewels. The same day -the Island of Tine was plundered, but no great booty found. Its castle -being strong and high, the signal of departure was immediately given, -and the southerly wind being favourable, in the course of ten days -we touched at different places, such as Chios, Lemnos, Mitylene, and -Tenedos; these castles were put in repair, and garrisoned with the -necessary number of troops. From Tenedos we arrived at Gallipolis, -where we took water, and where the Commanders received strict orders -to be watchful. From hence, in two days and one night, we reached the -Prince’s Islands, in sight of Constantinople, and next day arrived -at the Seraglio point, with such demonstrations of joy as cannot be -expressed. The conqueror of Canea, Yússúf Páshá, kissed the ground -before the Emperor, was decorated with Imperial robes of honour, and -offered a treasure worth that of Egypt, and youths like those of -Paradise, besides an infinite number of presents. But he was afterwards -calumniated and killed. When Sultán Ibrahím saw his body, he said, “how -white he was!” and fell a-crying. He added, “My Yússúf, may those, who -have played thee this trick soon share thy fate!” and, while saying -so, he looked at his favourite Jinjí Khojá. His death caused general -complaint and lamentations, and there was but one voice of sorrow. -God’s mercy be upon him! - - -_Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá._ - -Envious calumniators informed the Emperor, that Yússúf Páshá had -secreted from the treasures of Canea three great tubs of gold, three -millions of money, and a golden column; that he had not given a drop -of the ocean nor an atom of the sun of his treasures to the Emperor. -After his death nothing was found, and the column wrapt up in felt, -which had been said to be a golden tree, was found to be a column of -yellow stone, which was afterwards used to support the oratory of the -mosque built by the mother of Mohammed IV. It is a stone more precious -indeed than gold and jewels, because persons afflicted with jaundice -are cured by touching it three times on a Saturday. This is the stone -which caused the death of Yússúf Páshá. - -“The servant proposes and God disposes, and the tongues of the people -are the pens of God.” When Sultán Ibrahím disclosed the secret of -the expedition to Yússúf Páshá on his departure, he said, “If thou -returnest victorious I’ll reward thee according to thy merits:” and -indeed it happened so, because the conquest of Canea, an enterprise -so difficult, was granted to Yússúf Páshá before the arrival of the -enemy’s fleet by a special favour of God, and no reward could equal -such merit, but the glory of Martyrdom. He was beloved of God, who -first granted him the conquest and then the Martyr’s crown. Praise be -to God that I, poor Evliyá, witnessed such a famous siege, and returned -safe to my native city. I kissed my parents’ hands, who wished me joy -on my safe return. My father said, “The campaign thou hast made now -renders my going into the field superfluous.” I said, “My dear father, -you have grown old, you have been present at seventy battles since -Sultán Súleimán’s time. Pray now for your beloved son, who shall go -into battles instead of you.” I kissed his hand, and he then told me -the following story, exhorting me to listen to it with the ears of my -soul. - -“In the year when thou wast born, my son, in the reign of Sultán Ahmed -I. a great assembly of seven hundred Vezírs and great men was held -at the Hippodrome in order to lay the foundation of Sultán Ahmed’s -mosque. They dug from forty to fifty cubits deep, and the walls of -the foundations having reached the level of the earth, the Ulemas and -Astronomers were assembled, and with the prayers and ceremonies usual -in similar cases the position of the mihráb determined. Kalender Páshá -was named inspector, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, the Secretary, and our -Khoja (Evliyá’s reading-master) Evliyá Efendí, Imám of the foundations; -the Sheikh of Scutarí, Mahommed Efendí, was named the Sheikh; Mahmúd -Chelebí, Kara Mahmúd Agha, and forty other men with fine voices, the -Moëzzins of the foundations. One day Sultán Ahmed came, and pitched -his tent on that part of the courtyard of the mosque, where there then -remained only a single painted Koshk belonging to the Seraï of Koja -Mohammed Páshá. Here the Sultán gave a feast to all the Vezírs and -great men of the capital, which surpassed even that which was given -at the feast of circumcission of Sultán Ahmed. The assembly having -retired, there remained in the Sultán’s tent, only Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutarí, Evliyá Efendí my master, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, Ibrahím -Efendí the senior of the surgeons, Dervish Omar Gulshení one of the -favourite singers and I, thy poor father, sitting on our heels. The -Sultán said unto us, “If it please God this mosque shall be finished, -and be a fine praying place, but it requires to be well endowed.” -Evliyá and Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí said, “My gracious Emperor, -undertake a military expedition, and then devote the revenues of the -conquered land to your new built mosque, as your ancestor Súleimán did, -who having in person conquered Rodos, Stancio, and different other -islands, devoted their revenues to his mosque, which is, therefore, -the best endowed of all the Imperial mosques. If your Majesty should -undertake an expedition against Creta (Kiríd), you would protect -the passage of Ottoman merchants and pilgrims from the ships of the -Infidels. The senior of the surgeons, Ibrahím, and Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutari said a Fátihah for this good intention, the seven prayers of -which were repeated by all present, who finished it by saying, ‘If it -please God our prayer shall be granted.’ - -“Sultán Ahmed then said, ‘But, learned gentlemen, we are at peace -with the Venetians, is it decent for a Shehin-shah (king of kings) to -encroach on treaties of peace? Under what pretext shall we break it, -particularly now, when Anatoli is kept in rebellion by Kara Yazijí, -Saíd Arab, Kalender-oghlí and Jennet-oghlí, against whom my Vezír Murad -Lálá is marching? How shall I then think of the conquest of Candia?’ -Evliyá answered, ‘My Emperor, on the third day all the rebels shall be -beaten, and you shall receive the good news on the twelfth, they shall -pass away like a torrent; Murad Páshá shall fill wells with their dead -bodies, and obtain in history by this deed the name of Murad Páshá the -well-maker (Kúyújí).’ This prediction was accomplished by the news that -Murad Páshá, had filled all the wells near Haleb and Azez with the -bodies of the rebels. Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari availed himself of this -opportunity to remind the Emperor of the project of the Cretan war, -and suggested to him, first to send an embassy to the Prince of Venice -to ask that he should give up the island of Creta. Sultán Ahmed, being -pleased with this idea, sent Kúrd-Chaúsh, a good and eloquent speaker, -with presents, as ambassador to Venice. He made great haste, and at the -end of seven days arrived at Venice, making his public entrance on the -eighth, and read his letters in public council; the Senate consented -to the demand, and letters were made out, with which Kúrd-Chaúsh was -sent back; having kissed the ground before the Emperor, the letters -were read by the Interpreter in presence of Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari, -Evliyá, Sunbul Alí, Ibrahím, Togháni, Ismail Efendí the Commentator on -the Mesneví, Júnúbí the Sheikh of the Mevlevís at Kássím Páshá, Dervish -Omer Gulshení, Guzeljí Gulábí, Kúzú Alí Aghá, Abdí Aghá, and of me, thy -poor father, in the following form and tenor, ‘You have asked from me -the Principe, your most humble servant, the island of Creta, with six -hundred thousand inhabitants, seven hundred and seventy villages, and -of seven hundred and seventy miles circumference, with seven mines of -gold, silver and other metals, which we are ready to give.’ At these -words all those who were present read the Fátihah, and the Mohammedan -shouts (Allah! Allah!) rent the air. - -“The end of the letter said, ‘But we poor fellows, giving to you, great -Monarch, an island as rich as that of Creta, we beg of you the favour -to make us a present of the ports of Acra, Saida, Beirút, and of the -old seat of our religion, Jerusalem. It is only for this purpose we can -cede to you the island of Creta, and it would be more reasonable to -deliver your hereditary countries from the rebels, who infest it, than -to form such strange demands:—Our compliments to you!’ Ahmed hearing -this answer was deeply afflicted, and began to cry. Mahmúd Efendí -said, ‘Why should your Majesty be afflicted; they began by saying, -that they were ready to give up the island, it is God who has dictated -these words to them, according to which they shall be obliged to yield -the island.’ A Fátihah was said, and the Mahommedan shouts (Allah!) -repeated. Then they said, ‘If it please God, it shall most certainly -be conquered,’ and saying so, they changed the conversation. When this -letter was again read at the Diván, the Emperor happened to be in his -innermost garden at the place called Chemensoffa, conversing with the -abovenamed learned and virtuous gentlemen. At this moment the gate of -the innermost Harem opened, and the Kislar-agassí walked out, followed -by seven Princes, who kissed the hands of the Emperor, and then of -the Sheikhs, who were with him, and the Sultán said, ‘Gentlemen, the -Princes my sons, are your most humble servants.’ He then ordered that -they should play before him, to dissipate the melancholy which the -answer of the Venetians had caused. They played ball, and Prince Osmán, -the strongest and stoutest of them, was superior to the rest. Coming -near his father’s throne, he asked him, ‘My Osmán! wilt thou conquer -Creta?’ The Prince answered, ‘What shall I do with Creta? I will -conquer the land of the white Russian girls, and shed blood there.’ -Saying so, he continued to play; Evliyá Efendí, praise to God, the -innocent boy could not reach the meaning of the Emperor’s words. Mahmúd -observed, that he had understood well the word Creta, but that there -was something mysterious in his answer about the white Russian girls. -Now Prince Osmán came up pursuing his brother Mohammed even under the -throne, where Mohammed sheltered himself, and having crept forth again, -the ball, which Osmán threw at him, touched his gilt turban, and hurt -his neck so that blood was flowing, and he turned giddy. - -“Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Look Mohammed, Osmán is thy brother, and yet he -has hurt thee, this is the course of the world: strike him in your -turn.’ He wiped his blood off, and having seated him at the foot of -the throne, he asked him, ‘Will you conquer Creta, Mohammed?’ Mohammed -said, ‘I will, but my brother Osmán sheds my blood; if it is not me, -another Mohammed will finish the conquest begun by me.’ The Senior -of the Surgeons, Ibrahím said, ‘Praise be to God, what secrets are -revealed to-day! but nobody yet understands them.’ Now the Princes -continued to play at ball; Bayazíd and Súleimán were chasing each -other, when all at once, Prince Murad sallied forth from the place -called the black cypress, and threw a ball at them, which hurt them -both, so that blood dropped from their noses. Sultán Ahmed said, ‘My -Murad, why dost thou beat thy brethren so.’ The Prince replied, ‘It was -not my intention, but such is the play of the world, I was obliged to -do it because they gained upon me, and were going to take my place!’ -Omer Gulshení said, ‘There is also some mystery in that.’ Now came -Prince Ibrahím in a ruby-coloured dress: Sultán Ahmed asked him, ‘Where -have you been my Ibrahím?’ ‘I,’ said he, ‘have taken the ablution of -martyrdom, and am now come to wrestle and play with all my brethren.’ -He entered wildly and threw a ball at Sultán Osmán’s head, so that he -knocked off his turban and set him crying. Prince Murad now threw a -ball at Ibrahím, which he received undaunted, feigned to direct his -ball at Bayazíd, but turned round in a moment, and threw it at Murad -with such violence, that he was for some time senseless. Ibrahím now -ran to his father’s throne, sat at the foot of it, and said, ‘Have I -not aimed a good ball at Murad,’ and then fell to indelicate play. -Murad was crying on the ground, saying, ‘I had rather died, than have -been beaten in that way by Ibrahím!’ The play continuing, to the -surprise of all the beholders, Murad again pursued Ibrahím, and threw -the ball at him, which he received as boldly as the first time, and -retreated under the throne, from whence he then issued without his -turban and in a state of undress. Sultán Ahmed caught hold of his ear, -and said, ‘Wilt thou conquer Creta, and make of it an endowment for my -mosque for Mecca and Medina.’ The Prince said, ‘If God assists me, and -helps me, in God’s name, and if it pleases God, my son Yússúf shall -conquer it under Yússúf the Prophet’s favour!’ All who were present now -said a Fátihah that this might happen, and Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Now, -how curious it is, that I am fallen into melancholy since the Venetian -letter has been read, that wishing to divert myself with my children’s -play, they got bloody necks and noses, and made me more melancholy than -before, till Ibrahím has at once chased away my spleen by saying that -he will conquer Creta by his son.’ God’s mercy on Sultán Ahmed! All -that had been foreshewn in this play, really happened. - -“1. Sultán Osmán who hurt his brother Mohammed’s neck, ordered him to -be executed when going to Khotyn. - -“2. Sultán Osmán, who was hurt by Ibrahím’s ball in his groin, died -after his unsuccessful return from Khotyn, at the Seven Towers, when -one Piniál tortured him till he died by compression of the scrotum. - -“3. The two Princes, Bayazíd and Súleimán, overtaken by Murad at the -black cypress, were strangled in the same place, the blood dropping -from their noses, by Sultán Murad’s order in the year 1045, when he -sent Beshír Aghá to Constantinople with the news of the conquest of -Eriván. They were buried in their father Ahmed’s tomb, twenty-one years -after this play had happened in their father’s presence. - -“4. The ball received by Ibrahim from Murad foreboded that Ibrahím -would be, as he was, Murad’s successor. - -“5. Ibrahím’s indelicate play at the foot of the throne, showed the -luxury of his reign passed in weddings and pleasure parties. - -“6. His having then said; ‘woe to my cullies,’ was the forerunner of -the infamous disease of which he died. - -“7. The reply given by Ibrahím, when coming forth from beneath his -father’s throne, and saying, that he would conquer Creta with his son -Yússúf, is to be understood of Yússúf Pashá the Commander-in-chief of -the expedition to Canea. - -“8. God knows my son (continued Evliyá’s father) whether the name -of Yússúf may not be applied to Ibrahím’s son, who shall finish the -conquest of Creta begun by his father. - -“My son, all these mysteries I witnessed in Sultán Ahmed’s presence, -and have waited ever since for the conquest of Creta promised by Sultan -Ibrahím to his father, and now fulfilled accordingly. I, thy poor -father, was present at the prayers then said at the suggestion of this -conquest, and thou my son hast witnessed the fulfilling of it. If it -please God, thou shalt witness also its entire conquest.” - -It was in this manner that my father, Dervish Mohammed, the chief of -the goldsmiths at Constantinople, related the story of the Princes. -God’s mercy upon him! As some thousand descriptions of the siege of -Canea exist, I would not expatiate too much on this subject, but have -related what I witnessed in a plain way. - -Jowánjí Kapújí Mohammed Páshá the great Vezír being deposed, he was -named Commander-in-chief at Creta, and the Vezírat given to the -Defterdár Sáleh Páshá, who bestowed on his brother, Murteza Páshá, -the governorship of Bude with three tails; and on Ibrahim Chelebí, -who had been Khazinedár, the governorship of Baghdád. The son of -Sáleh Páshá, Chelebí Mohammed, known by the name of the hanged -Defterdár-zadeh Mohammed Páshá, was made Aghá of the janissaries, with -the character of Vezír, but, as he did not accept of it, he was sent -as Commander-in-chief to Erzerúm. I, poor Evliyá, was appointed clerk -at the custom-house of Erzerúm, Moëzzin and companion to this Páshá. -He was a man of agreeable conversation, great acquirements in all -sciences, generous, brave, a poet and statesman. He bestowed on me rich -presents, and I prepared my tents for the journey to Erzerúm. I was -invested with a robe of honour (caftán) in Sultán Ibrahím’s presence. -He said unto the Páshá, giving him the Imperial rescript, “Thou art -my absolute Vezír and Commander against the Persians; if they should -become rebels, all the army of Anatolia as far as Eriván is under thy -command.” He gave him five purses, fifty mules and as many camels for -the journey, a splendid tent, and two sable pelisses. We passed under -Sultán Ibrahím’s blessing to Scutari, where we pitched our tents at -the place called Agháchairí. The same day, Cherkess Derzí Mustafa, one -of the Imperial armsbearers (Silahshor), was sent express to Erzerúm -to Malatialí Silihdár Súleimán Páshá. During our stay at Scutari, -the treasurer of the Páshá Dilber Chelebí was deposed by an Imperial -firmán, and his place given to Alí Aghá one of the relations of the -Páshá; we remained a week at Scutari, and then, on the first day of -Rejeb, set out on our journey for Erzerúm. - - - - -JOURNEY TO ERZERUM. - - -Having remained a month in Scutari, the buildings of which town have -been minutely described in our first volume; the news arrived that the -Mossellem (substitute of the Páshá) had happily taken possession of -the governorship; the Páshá immolated victims, and everybody rejoiced, -because the principal reason for conferring this governorship on -Defterdár-zadeh was the rumour which prevailed, that Abaza Páshá the -famous rebel, whom Sultán Murad had spared, contrary to the wishes of -the troops, had returned from his travels in Africa and India, but -most happily Súleimán Páshá, the governor of Erzerúm (predecessor of -Abaza) killed this pretender and sent his head to Constantinople, and -the Mosellem, Mustafa Aghá, took possession of the governorship. We -set out from Scutari in the early part of Sha’abán, and arrived at the -end of seven hours march at Pendík, a great village on the seabord, it -belonging to the foundation of Kirechjíbashí at Scutari. Its numerous -gardens supply the Capital with vegetables. Here our master received -from the Great Vezír Sáleh Páshá, ten purses, ten horses, and a great -number of other valuable presents. From hence the quarter-master -(Konakjí) and chief of the cellar (Kilárjí), with the inspector of the -kitchen (Mutbakhemíní), and the purveyor at market (Bazára giden), led -the van with five hundred men and a tail. - - -_Gebíze._ - -This was formerly a large town. At the time when Sídí Battál besieged -Constantinople, a great convent existed at Constantinople, within -the gate of Sílívrí, at the place now called the mosque of Koja -Mustafa Páshá. Harún-ur-rashíd, built a fortress here and garrisoned -it with three thousand men, in order to keep the infidels in check. -The inhabitants of Gebíze having killed some men belonging to Sídí -Battál, who commanded the garrison of the said fortress, he laid the -town of Gebíze in ruins, and retired to Malatia; traces of this havoc -are still visible. It was conquered by Mohammed I., who destroyed the -castle, that it might not be a refuge for the infidels; but Sultán -Mohammed II. rebuilt it after the conquest of Constantinople. It is -now a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers in the sanjak of -Koja Ilí. Mustafa Páshá, who built the bridge which bears his name -in Rúmelí, built a mosque here, whose administrator (Mutevelí) is -at the same time commanding officer of the place. It lies an hour’s -distance from the sea, at the top of a dry mountain; there are about -one thousand houses with gardens, in the ancient style, three mosques, -the largest of which covered with lead, outshines the mosques of the -Vezírs at Constantinople; it was built by Mustafa Páshá, the builder -of the bridge called by Sultán Súleimán, the bridge of the illiberal -(Namerd), who when governor of Egypt had the finest stones cut in -plates to adorn this mosque, and made a stone candelabrum of them, -which has no equal in the world. The stones came direct from Egypt to -the landing-place of Daríjí, where they were disembarked. The interior -of the mosque is lined with marble and granite to the height of three -men, which is not to be seen in any other mosque in the capital. The -minber (pulpit), mihráb (altar), and mahfil (oratory) of the Moëzzins -are of most excellent workmanship, which is impossible to describe -to those who have not seen it. It was built by the architect Hassám, -the first assistant to the architect Koja Sinán, who showed his skill -here most minutely. The windows on the four sides are composed of -small painted glass, which in sunshine illuminates the mosque with -a most delicious light, therefore it is that you read on the middle -vault the verse of the Koran, God is the light of Heaven. The interior -of the cupola is adorned with circles of lamps and a great number -of suspended decorations. The Egyptian carpets on the floor vie -with those of Isfahan. The pulpit of the preacher (Kursí) is inlaid -with pearl-shell. Outside of the walls is a delicious garden, where -flowers and odoriferous herbs fill the air and brain with perfumes, -and nightingales enrapture with their warbling notes. The mosque has -but one gate opposite the altar; on the threshold is written the -chronograph in the writing of Kara Hissárí Hossein, and in the mosque -seventy Koráns are kept, each of which is worth an Egyptian treasure. -A copy of Yakút Mostea-assemí, like that which is seen here on the -left of the altar, is not to be found elsewhere, except it be at the -mosque of Sultán Ahmed at Constantinople. On both sides of the gate are -six cupolas supported by as many columns, and the cupola immediately -over the gate is the seventh. The Harem or courtyard, as spacious as -those of imperial mosques, is adorned with trees, the mináreh, with one -gallery, is well proportioned. Close to the mosque is a Caravánseraï, -affording accommodation for three thousand men, and two thousand -horses, with a stable appropriated for camels. In the dining-room -(dar-ul-ita’ám), old and young men and women dine in plenty; and at -the Caravánseraï, every evening, every fire-place is furnished with a -dish of soup, a loaf of bread, a candle, and a bag of forage for every -horse, ass, mule or camel. A bath is attached to it, covered with -lead like all the other buildings of this foundation. Besides this -Caravánseraï there are forty large and small kháns, and one hundred and -eighty shops, all the work of Sinán; the mosque in the market is an old -simple building; the houses are all faced with red bricks, the water of -the wells is a little thick, but the air is good. - -We advanced from hence five hours towards the east to the Castle of -Helke or Herke, conquered by Mohammed I. with considerable loss of men. -It is a nice small castle, of immense stones, built on the seashore, -on a cliff between two vallies. Its gate opens to the north and has no -houses within. The district belongs to the sanjak of Koja Ilí. At the -end of eight hours journey along the seashore, we arrived at Isnikmíd -(Nicomedia), which has been already minutely described in our former -journey. After a day’s rest we again started and came, at the end of -six hours march, to Sabánja, called so from Sabánjí Koja, who first -cleared the thick woods here by the plough. In Súleimán’s time it was -cultivated, and Sárí Rostem Páshá founded a khán here with one hundred -and seventy fireplaces, a pleasant mosque and bath covered with lead, -and about one thousand houses faced with brick built by Koja Sinán. -The administrator of these endowments of Rostem Páshá, is at the -same time the first public officer of the place. Besides its white -cherries, it is renowned for its white bread, Súmún, which is baked -in a shop underneath the bath, and which keeps its flavour and does -not become mouldy for the space of six days. It has often been sent by -couriers to the Sháh of Persia, has arrived fresh, and obtained general -approbation. Its good qualities are due to the water. - - -_Praise of the Lake of Sabánja._ - -Its circumference is twenty miles, and seventy-six villages adorn its -shores. The people who drink of its water are of ruddy complexion, and -the products of the land are abundant; there are no vineyards, but a -great number of gardens. On the borders of the lake there are melons -and water-melons of such a size that two make an ass-load. On the lake -are from seventy to eighty kaiks and boats, which are employed in the -passage from village to village, and for the transport of wood. There -are a great number of most delicious fish. Its depth is twenty fathoms, -the water is clear and brilliant, and excellent for washing without -soap. It is this water which gives a whiteness resembling cotton to -the bread Súmúní. On the east side of the lake, at two hours distance, -passes the river Sakaria, which disembogues into the Black Sea in the -province of Koja Ilí at the place called Irva; it would require but -little spirit of enterprise to unite the lake with the sea, by means -of this river, a branch of which goes down to the salt-marshes of -Nicomedia. As early as the reign of Mohammed III. a great number of -workmen were employed in establishing a communication between the gulf -of Nicomedia and the lake of Sabánja, but the undertaking was given up -at the request of the inhabitants. If the Sakaria were united with this -lake, and the lake with the gulf of Nicomedia, this town would be quite -an inland port; the timber and wood might be brought down to Bolí, and -it would cost no more than five aspers the quintal. God make it easy! - -We marched to the eastward six hours, along the seashore, through thick -forests, called “Ocean of trees,” and crossed the Sakaria by a wooden -bridge; this river issues from the mountain Chifteler, passes through -Koja Ilí, and goes into the Black Sea near Irva. - - -_The Station of Khandak-bazárí._ - -A small place belonging to the territory of Koja Ilí, with woods, -mountains, gardens, a mosque, a khán, a bath, a market, a judge -appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers, an officer of the -janissaries, and a Súbashí. In the woody marsh here, is a long wooden -bridge (causeway) famous all over Arabia and Persia. We marched twelve -hours further on through thick forests, and came to Dúzje-bazár, the -first place belonging to Bolí, in a mountainous region, with a mosque -and two kháns founded by Shemsí Páshá, who also paved the road. In the -neighbourhood are many villages. - -West of this place on the side of Akcheshár, and two hours beyond the -river Melán is the place of Úskúbí, a khass of the territory of Bolí, -with a mosque, a khán, and a bath. Nine hours further on we reached -Bolí, conquered in Osmán’s name by Sonkor Baí Shemsí, to whom and to -whose descendants it was given as hereditary property (Ojáklik). Its -castle was built by the Greek Commander of Brússa, it is a small ruined -castle, on a high mountain without vestige of cultivation. According -to the division of Sultán Mohammed II. it is the seat of a sanjak. The -khass of the Beg amounts to three hundred thousand one hundred and -twenty-two aspers, fourteen ziamets, and fifty-five timárs, with the -Jebellis two thousand eight hundred swords. The judge is appointed -with three hundred aspers: five districts belong to it, viz. the -district round the town of Bolí, that of Gokjesúí, that of Sázák Kerde -to the left of Bolí, that of Túrtúr-diván, and that of Yaflije. The -annual revenue is five thousand piastres, and those of the Beg fifteen -thousand. But the judge and Beg are obliged to be very cautious, -because if they commit the smallest injustice, the Rayas can reach -Constantinople in three days, and complain of the oppressor. There is -an officer of the janissaries, of the Sipahís, and a Nakíb-ul-íshráf. -Though the inhabitants are Turcomans, yet there is a great number of -merchants. It is a large town of thirty-four quarters and as many -mosques, three thousand well covered houses, some of which are faced -with bricks; some seraïs and mosques. In the market-place is that of -Mustafa Páshá and of Ferhád Páshá, much frequented; they are both the -work of Koja Sinán the great architect: the best and most pleasant -bath is that of Shemsí: seven kháns, and seven fountains, all founded -by Shemsí Páshá; four hundred elegant shops, but no college or school -of tradition, as far as I know of; but there are seventy schools for -boys, and more than two hundred of whom know the Korán by heart. The -book Mohammedieh is much read here; they have also story-tellers who -recite moral maxims (Oghúz). The mildness of the air contributes to -the beauty of the inhabitants. The women wear Ferrájís and large -head-dresses, they are very decent and modest ladies. There are a -great number of gardens and vineyards. Of its eatables and products -the cherries are the most renowned. The water-cans of fir-tree refresh -those who drink out of them like the living spring; these cans are -called Akasik and Podúch. The inhabitants for the most part are -merchants. The surrounding forests being composed of fir-trees, the -inhabitants live by cutting and making planks of them, which are much -esteemed at Constantinople. Two journies to the west from this place is -the landing-place of Akcheshár; those of Ereglí, Bartín, and Hissárogí, -also belong to the sanjak of Bolí. The hotbath lies to the south, -on the outside of the town; amidst the gardens is a small hotbath, -extremely hot and particularly useful against the itch. It purifies -the stomach and cleanses the body. People of all degrees flock to this -hotbath on waggons. - - -_Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí._ - -The convent of Yúzghád Baba near the hotbath. We marched twelve -hours to the east, through cultivated villages to Kerde, the seat of -a Súbashí subordinate to Bolí; a judge with one hundred and fifty -aspers. The town consists of a thousand wooden and brick-built houses -in a large valley, nine quarters, and eleven mosques, besides the -Mesjíds; three convents, three kháns, two hundred shops, and seven -coffee-houses. The knife-cutlers and tanners of Kerde are renowned for -the knives and Safien of this place. The air is pleasant, and the -inhabitants healthy; they are mostly students eager for information -(Súkhte Thalebí). It is a common saying that Kerde is famous for its -thieves, its tanners, and its winter, which is compared to that of -Erzerúm; the inhabitants are a set of lively stout Turks. At the four -points of the compass, and particularly on the south towards Kánghrí, -are cultivated districts inhabited by forty or fifty thousand Turks. -The names of the districts are, Kizíl-úzú, Alaja-úzú, Aleh-diván, -Bir-diván, Ikí-diván, Uch-diván, and so on to seven Diváns, all in the -mountains. The name of Diván given to these districts originated in -the time of Ertoghrúl, who, being named Beg by Ala-ud-dín the Prince -of the Seljúk family, granted to the Infidels, whose districts he -conquered, the privilege of kettle-drums. The name is thus preserved in -seven districts, whose inhabitants are a rebellious people, speaking a -peculiar language of their own. - -From Kerde we travelled to the eastward for the space of eight hours, -through cultivated villages, to the village of Bayander in the -district of Bolí, a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers. -The conquest of these villages situated amongst steep mountains cost -much blood to Osmán. Here are three hundred covered houses, a khán -where every passenger is allowed to stay, and receives wood, straw -and water, gratis. We travelled thence through a straight, called -Hamámlí Bogház, and came with a thousand difficulties at the end of -nine hours to the place Jerkesh, the seat of a Súbashí in the sanjak -of Kánghrí. Here is a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, an -officer of the janissaries, and Sipáhis. The town consists of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a bath and from forty to fifty shops. Mustafa -Páshá, the sword-bearer to Sultán Murad IV., built a khán here of fifty -fire-places, and one hundred shops, but died before it was finished. -Once a week a great market is held here. Seven hours further on is the -village of Karajalar, a ziámet in the jurisdiction of Kánghrí, three -hundred houses of poor but very obstinate Turks; they will sell a trunk -of a tree forty times over, putting it in the water every night, so -that you may be compelled to lay out ten aspers in brushwood to set it -on fire. A traveller marked one of these trunks by fixing a nail in it, -and when he returned three years afterwards from the siege of Eriván, -they gave him the very same trunk, which he had tried in vain to burn -three years before. Thus they will sell a trunk forty times, and -praise it as being forty years old. They also trade in different small -articles, particularly in girdles, for which Karajalar is renowned. - - -_Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání._ - -Habíb was born at Ortakoí near Nikde, and is buried here. He died a -Sheikh of the Beirámí in the reign of Mohammed II. Hamza Efendí was one -of his disciples. We left Karajalar, and after nine hours walk, we -came to Kojhissár a jurisdiction of Kánghrí. Its castle was conquered -in the year 708 by Osmán, and destroyed in order that it should no -longer afford shelter to the Infidels. Nine hours further on, we -reached the town of Tússia, conquered by Mohammed I, the seat of a -Súbashí, and of a judge appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. -The public officers are a commander of the janissaries (Serdár), an -officer of the Sipáhís (Kiaya-yerí), a Muftí and Nakíb; though it is -a Turkish town, yet there is a great number of learned divines. The -town is situated on an elevation, and consists of three thousand wooden -houses faced with brick, there are eleven quarters, twenty-one mosques, -besides the mesjíds, seven kháns, three hundred and forty shops, and a -Bezestán with an iron gate. The Kúzlí and Leblebí Halwa (two sorts of -sweetmeats) of the place, are famous. The air is heavy; the inhabitants -are Turks, but very kind to strangers. Outside the town in a fine -meadow is the tomb of Sheat Baba Sultán, to which pilgrimages are -performed. - -Our road now led for eight hours, amongst the mountains along the -border of the Kizil Irmák (Red river) when we arrived at the village of -Háj Hamza, the companion and disciple of Habíb Karamání; this village -was his birth-place: there remains only an ancient mosque on the great -road, the other houses are in ruins. It is on the banks of the Kizil -Irmák, the opposite shore of which is laid out in elegant gardens. The -Kizil Irmák issues from the mountains of Churúm and enters the Black -Sea near the village of Báfra, where it forms a cascade, the noise of -which alarms men like the rolling of thunder; the river rushes on with -great impetuosity, and is not navigable. Its colour is red both in -winter and summer; it is a cruel water, for, in attempting to cross to -the opposite shore on horseback I was upset with my horse in the middle -of it, and saved with difficulty by getting hold of a willow. We left -Hájí Hamza and continued our road to the eastward among the mountains -and along the Kizil Irmák. The road winds along the rocks at the base -of the high mountain called Sárímáshiklí, so that on the right side are -the cliffs, and on the left a precipice, at the bottom of which flows -the Kizil Irmák, which in some places must be crossed. After eight -hours march we came to the Castle of Osmanjík. Some say that Osmán was -born at this place, and the castle built by his successors. In the year -795 it was taken out of the hands of the Turks by Ilderím Bayazíd. It -is the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Chúrúm, and has a -judge with a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers appointed to it; -there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Muftí or Nakíb. There are few -distinguished inhabitants, but a great number of gardens. You cross the -Kizil-Irmák by a bridge to the castle, it is of a strong architecture, -no more than eight hundred paces in circumference, with an iron gate. -As it is situated so amazingly high I did not see the interior, but -only the outer town or suburb, consisting of a thousand old Tátár -houses covered with planks and earth, there are seven quarters and -as many mosques, three kháns, and a small bath, the water of which -is drawn from a well supplied by the Kizil Irmák. On three sides of -the town is sandy ground. Raisins are very sweet here on account of -the heat of the soil. In the sand grows a plant called Kabre (Capers) -which preserved in vinegar is in great use. The poor and almost all the -inhabitants are Dervishes of the order of Hají-Begtásh, because one of -their principal Saints is buried on the west side of the town on an -elevated spot. - - -_Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the -Dynasty of the Sheep.)_ - -He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán -Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a -convent, a meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï -with kitchen and cellar. All these establishments are covered with -lead, which with the golden crescents on them dazzle the eyes of -beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen for the poor) is -smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, I -went to visit this place of pilgrimage; I kissed the threshold, -saying, “Es-selám aleik,” and entered the tomb, where I read the -Korán, thanking God for the grace he had granted me to visit it. The -cupola is perfumed with musk and amber, which is very agreeable to the -senses of visitors, on whom the keepers of the mausoleum also sprinkle -rose-water. The preacher and the other Dervishes Begtáshí who watch and -pray at the tomb, said prayers on the head of me, poor Evliyá, wishing -me a happy journey, with good sight, and perfect health and happiness -in both worlds. The Dervishes all uttered the Mohammedan shout (Allah!) -and read a Fátihah. When the Sheikh covered my head with his cap, -I felt a wind blowing on both my ears, and my eyes were lighted up -like Arab torches. Since the shipwreck which I had suffered in the -Black Sea, swimming naked for three days and nights, my sight had -suffered cruelly, and was only restored by this head-dress (the Crown -of felicity) being put on my head. I then conversed with all the poor -of the convent, and dined with them, and I have ever since kept the -symbols of Dervishship, which I received at the Convent, viz. the habit -(Khirka); the carpet (Sejáde;) the standard (A’alem); the drum (Tabl -Kúdúmí); the halter (Pálehenk); the stick (Assa); and the head-dress or -crown, (Táj). - -Inside of the cupola are different inscriptions by the visitors, to -which I added one of my own composition which suddenly occurred to me. -The name of Koyún Baba was given to this Saint, because when he came -from Khorassán in Hají Begtásh’s company, he bleated like a sheep once -in twenty-four hours, which was the signal for prayer. The Dervishes -of the order of Begtásh are generally in bad repute, but those of this -convent are indeed meek like sheep, devout, pious, praying people, and -in all my travels in Rúm, Arabia, and Persia, I met nowhere a more -worthy convent. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh._ - -A great Saint renowned for many miracles. The bridge, a work of Bayazíd -II. is a marvellous pile of building of nineteen arches, each arch -gives an idea of the rainbow, of the galaxy, of the girdle of Divine -Power, or of the Ták Kosra. Its length, from one end to the other, is -four hundred and fifty paces; and although the river was so rapid, the -architect built it straight as the bridge of Sirát (over which souls -are to pass on the day of the last Judgment). We halted here for a day, -then again crossing the bridge, and marching towards the west, amidst -frightful mountains, we arrived at the small pass of Direglibíl; which, -if one man only ascends to the top of the rock, and rolls stones down, -he may defend against a thousand men. It is known in all Asia, and -called Diregli-bíl (the pass with trees), because the mountain being -excavated in many places, and threatening to fall down, the rocks are -supported by trees, which were placed there by well-meaning people. -Here our gracious lord the Páshá descended from his horse, and taking -some of the stones out of the road, which encumbered it, himself threw -them down the precipice; this example was instantly followed by the -whole suite, four hundred men, who dismounting, cleared the road of -the stones, shouting Allah, with the clarions sounding. After nine -hours march from Osmánjik, we came to the village Hájíkoï, the frontier -of the sanjak of Amasia, a ruined village, with a khán in ruins, -though it is very well situated for cultivation. Six hours further -on we reached the field of Márziván, and the village of Kerkiráz, -belonging to Amasia, with sixty villages, a mosque, and khán, also -falling into ruins. At the end of eight hours we came to the mountain -town of Amasia, which is said to have been built by the Amalekites, -and, according to others, by Ferhád, the mountain cutter. In the year -476 (1083) it was conquered by Sultán Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend -family. The princes of Azerbeiján laid siege to it more than once, -without being able to take it. From the hands of the Dánishmend family -it passed into those of the Seljúk. It was then conquered by Sultan -Ilderím, who thus prevented its falling into the hands of Timúr. He -then made his son Issa Chelebi governor, and coins were struck, which -bear the inscription of Amasia, of the purest silver, which is found -in three mines here. At the division of the empire by Sultan Mohammed -II, Amasia is described as the seat of a Beg. It has sometimes been -given as Arpalik to Vezírs of three tails. According to the Kanún, -its khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets, -and forty-two timárs; it has an Alaï Beg and Cheri-bashí. The Zaims -and Timáriots, with the Jebellí, amount to three thousand men; the -judge has three hundred aspers a day. The districts (Náhie) are those -of Aine-bazár, Kildighán, Aktágh, and Kafála; the jurisdictions those -of Koprí, Samara, Zeitún, Gumish, Búlák, Merzifún, Kerkerár, Ládik, -Veraï, and Zenún-abád. The annual revenue of the judge is valued at -seven thousand piastres, and those of the Páshá at seventy thousand -piastres. Five Súbashis are attached to the khass of the Pásha, -viz., Shehrbáh-bazár, Weraï, Aine-bazárí, Aktágh, and Súliova. Its -magistrates are, the Sheikh-ul-Islám, the Nakíb-ul-ishráf, the Serdár -of the Janissaries, and the Kiayayerí of the Sipahis. There are many -learned divines and rich merchants. - - -_Form and size of Amasia._ - -Its towers, crowning the height of the mountains are always veiled with -clouds, and it is only at noon that the spires of the mosques, and the -roofs of the houses are visible. Its circumference is nine thousand -and sixty paces. In form it is a pentagon, extremely strong, worthy -of being a work of Ferhád, with forty-one towers, and eight hundred -battlements altogether. The number of the houses is not known to me. -There are magazines, cisterns, and a road cut in the rock, leading down -to the water, called Chapán Yolí, of three thousand and seven steps. It -has no market-place (Charshú), or market (Bazár). There are four iron -gates looking to the east. In the castle is a mosque built by Sultán -Ilderím, and a marvelously deep dungeon, resembling the pit of hell; -and seventy cannons, but of no great calibre, as it is not a frontier -fortress. This castle has six wonderful caverns, where the rich -inhabitants hid their valuable effects in the time of the Anatolian -rebellions of Kara Yazijí, and Kara Sáid. - -Timúr besieged this fortress with an innumerable army for the space -of seven months, and was obliged to retire in confusion. Though it is -situated in the midst of the province, yet a commander (Dizdár) and -a garrison is appointed, lest rebels should gain possession of it. -The lower castle is built on the banks of the river Túzánlí, a small -castle, whose circumference is not known to me. It has three gates, the -first opens towards the Kiblah, Karánlik Kapú; the second Ma’adenos -Kapú, looks in the same direction; and the third, Meidán Kapú, to the -west; from whence a great bridge leads to Gok-medresse, on the opposite -side of the town. The gate Serkíz leads over a wooden bridge to the -mosque of Gháríblar. The number of mosques, palaces, and houses are -six hundred. The river Túzánlí, which passes through the town, issues -from the mountains of the same name above Tokát, passes by Eskí, -Aine-bazár, Kargol, the castle of Túrhál, Chengellí-bíl, Sárikúsún, the -bridge of Davíkaví, Chapán, through the pass of Ferhád to Amasia, where -it joins the river Chekerek, opposite the great stone bridge. This -river springs from the lake of Ladek, comes from Súliova, and joins -the Tuzánlí near Amasia as aforesaid. It is vulgarly called Yava; the -proverb, “Tokát defiles it, Amasia drinks it,” is applied to it because -it flows from Tokát to Amasia. After it has passed Amasia it is called -Chehár Shenbesú (Wednesday’s water), and after irrigating many fields, -it disembogues in the Black Sea, on the western side of Samsún. Below -the village Chehár Shenbeh it is joined by several springs, and below -Nígissár, in the province of Sivás, it receives the river Kerkúk; thus -it reaches Samsún, after having increased its stream by those of seven -other rivers. The town of Amasia is built on both sides of this river, -and on the hills and mountains bordering on it. A bridge worth seeing, -the work of Sultán Bayazíd, crosses it. This river comes to Amasia from -the south, running northward, and turning many mills and water-wheels; -which at Amasia are not less to be praised than those of Hama and -Adana. Amasia is divided into forty-eight quarters of Moslíms, and -five of Christians; there are altogether five thousand houses, besides -palaces. - -The Seraï of the Sultán is situated on the banks of the river, -surrounded by delightful gardens, curious trees, and many seats; it -is cultivated by a master gardener (Usta), and fifty gardeners, who -wear yellow caps. The Seraï of Mahommed Páshá is close to the mosque; -within the castle is the Seraï of Sultán Bayazíd, and many others, -faced with brick; there are altogether two hundred and forty mosques. -Among them is the mosque of Bayazíd II. In his youth Bayazíd was first -made governor of Trebisonde, and then of Amasia; his father, Mahommed -II, having died at Máldepeh, he went to Constantinople to ascend the -throne, but gratefully remembering that he was made Emperor at Amasia, -he freed the inhabitants from all contributions, and built this mosque, -one hundred feet square: the mihráb, minber, and mahfil of the Muëzzins -are of elegant workmanship. The cupola is not very large, but adorned, -like those of other imperial mosques, with circles for suspending lamps -and other ornaments. The chronograph on the gate opposite the Kiblah -gives the date of its building, 892 (1486), it has two minarehs, and in -the middle of the court-yard a water-basin for ablutions. The mosque -of Kúchúk Aghá, opposite the river Chekerek; the mosque of Bayazíd -Páshá, covered with lead, and paved with marble; the mosque of Mohammed -Páshá, covered with lead, and one minareh; the mosque of Khizr Elias, -a large building, covered with lead; the mosque of Mekkeme, built of -wood, as also is the minareh; the mosque Fethie, formerly a Christian -church and convent; the mosque of Yogúrch Páshá, who was Vezír to -Mohammed I.; the mosque of Gokmedresse, covered with lead, but without -a minareh; besides a great number of Mesjids. There are ten colleges, -the most elegant of which is that of Sultán Bayazíd; nineteen houses -for reading the Korán; at that of Sultán Bayazíd there are more than -three hundred Háfizes (who know the Korán by heart); ten houses of -tradition; and two hundred schools for boys, some of which are covered -with lead. There are forty convents for Dervishes, the best of which -is that of Jelál-ud-dín Rúmí, and ten dining establishments; at that -of Sultán Bayazíd all the poor dine twice a day. Of the Caravánseraïs, -that of Sultán Bayazíd is covered with lead, as is also that of Bairám -Páshá, the Vezír of Murad IV. The Kháns are lead-covered, with iron -gates, besides those for merchants (Khoja), there are those for single -men (Mújerred); these last have their own gatekeepers, and are shut up -every night, so that those who do not come home before the hour for -closing are not let in, and those who are within cannot go out till the -gates are thrown open in the morning, when every person goes to his -work. - -In the market-place (Charshú) there are altogether one thousand and -sixty shops, and one hundred and sixty different workmen, with vaults -of stone like the market place of Brússa. A Bezestán with four iron -gates. The market place is paved with large slabs. There are many -distinguished inhabitants. - - -_Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c._ - -The inhabitants are a set of merry jolly fellows, and are all red-faced -and fresh-coloured; their occupation may be thus described;—first, -the Zaims and Timariots and the Páshá’s court; secondly, the divines, -judges, and professors; the Imáms, Khatíbs, Muëzzins, &c.; and -thirdly, the merchants and handicraftsmen. There are many well-bred -highly-finished gentlemen, who speak with great eloquence, but the -dialect of the common people is harsh. The wealthy dress in sable -pelisses and Ferráji of cloth, the middle classes in Bogassin. The -women are Turkish beauties, with well-ranged teeth and words. - -From the district of Kághla comes a sort of corn called Dárdevedíshí, -of which most excellent bread is made, called Levásha, Kerde, Chákil; -there are forty sorts of pears, ruby-coloured cherries, and seven sorts -of grapes and quinces, of which a far-famed _robb_ is made, and sent to -Princes as a present. - -Sherbet of must, scented with musk; sherbet of quince jelly, which, -on account of its heating quality, is as useful in medicine as terra -sigillata. The sherbets called Khardalie, Búldáklí, are exported into -Persia; a pleasant white beverage. - -The workmen are clever in all kind of handicraft, but the tailors -and cotton beaters are the most famous, as well as the barbers and -confectioners. In the time of the Amalekites, the river Túzánlí did -not pass through the town; it was Ferhád, the lover of Shirín, who cut -these mountains like cheese, and the traces of his work is yet to be -seen in the mountains on the west side of the town. - -The situation of this town in a deep valley, and on the banks of a -river, contributes to the mildness of the air, and the riches of its -cultivation. The windows of the houses look to the west and north; the -winter is temperate. The water which Ferhád carried to the town from -the opposite mountains is delightful; it is distributed from house to -house. - - -_Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs._ - -There are seventy different walks; the first is that of the bloody -fountain (Kánlí bínar;) it is so called because a wicked old woman -having brought false news to Ferhád here, of Sherín’s death, he threw -his hatchet into the air, and himself down the precipice, by which -means he was killed. - -The tomb of Ottoman Princes, who are buried in the cypress wood, -their names I do not know; the tomb of Zekeria Khalvetí, he was the -first disciple of Pír Elias, and is buried near the saddlers’ shops -(Serrájiler). The pilgrimage of the Sultán of the faith, the Simorgh -of truth Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman Ben Hassám-ud-dín Gomishlí-zadeh, he is -the nephew of Pír Elias, and was a dervish of the order of Khalvetí, -of whom many miracles are related. The three Princes, sons of Murad -II. having visited this Sheikh, two of them kissed his hand, and the -third, Mohammed, kissed his feet. The Sheihk took the handkerchief -(Reda) he wore on his neck, tied it round the neck of Prince Mohammed, -and admonished him to take care of the Moslíms at Constantinople. -This Sheikh has left many poems on divine love; his poetical name -is Hossámí. His tomb is near that of Pír Elias, in the convent of -Yakúb Páshá. Molla Kassem Khatíb Ben Yakúb, who was born and buried -at Amasia, one of the deepest of learned divines. Molla Ala-ud-dín -Ilíkámi, born and buried at Amasia. Molla Abd-ul-jebbár Ajemí, near the -tomb of the Ottoman Princes. Molla Abd-ur-rahman Ben Ali Ben Moyed, -born and buried at Amasia. The Sultán of poets, Munírí Efendí, born -and buried at Amasia, he improvisated Arabic, Turkish, and Persian -poems, and was one of the Vezírs of Prince Ahmed, when Governor of -Amasia. The excellent female poet, Mihrmáh Khatún, descending from -Pír Elias’s family, was a virtuous lady like Rábie Adúye, who knew -seventy scientific books by heart, and beat the most learned men in -disputing: her true name being Mihrmáh, she took the name of Mihrí for -her poetical surname; she left a Diván, and some theological treatises, -and was buried near her grandfather, Sheikh Pír Elias. - -Pilgrimage of the Pole of Poles, the Sheikh, _par excellence_, the -cream of saints, the column of the Princes, Sheikh Pír Elias. He -was one of the Sheikhs of Sultán Bayazíd I., and went with Timúr to -Shirván, from whence he returned to Amasia, his birth-place, where he -is buried on an elevated spot, called Sevádie, near Amasia. He is famed -for many miracles, one of the most celebrated is, that when his corpse -was washed, he straightened the hand which had been placed crooked by -the washing-man. His mausoleum, with all the foundations belonging to -it, was erected by Bayazíd II., son of Sultán Mohammed II. Strangers -and poor persons are here most liberally entertained. Praise be to -God, that I was so happy as to visit it, and to finish a complete -lecture of the Korán there. The pilgrimage of Kelíj Arslán, a Sheikh of -the Mevlevís, buried in the convent of that order. The pilgrimage of -Ferhád; he is buried on the top of the mountain which he cut for the -love of Sherín, and the old woman who was the cause of his death is -buried between him and his mistress. The thistles and thorns which grow -on the tomb of the old woman prevent the flowers uniting, which grow on -the tombs of Ferhád and Sherín. - -There are a great number of pilgrimages of great and holy men, but -I visited only those I have given an account of, and at each, in -honour of their souls, said the Súra Yass, asking for their spiritual -assistance. On the third day of our stay the clarions of departure -sounded; we took leave of our friends, and travelled the same day -through the mountains of Chengelli-bíl, reaching, after six hours -march, the station of Kánlí-bínár, which is the spot where Ferhád -killed himself. It is a pleasant place, with a luxuriant spring of most -delightful water. We watered our horses here, and pitched our tents, -and continued our road next morning towards the north for seven hours. -We arrived at the village of Ezíl, a district belonging to Amasia, -three hundred houses with gardens, a khán, a mosque, and a bath. - - -_The Town and Castle of Nígíssár._ - -The next day we reached, in eight hours time, the seat of the -Dánishmend family, the old town and stronghold of Nígíssár. Its builder -was a Greek Emperor; it was conquered in the year 476 (1083) by Sultan -Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, and became the seat of this -dynasty; their second residence was Amasia. The Seljúks, who anxiously -wished to possess it, laid siege to it several times without success. -Its name is a corruption of Níg-hissár, the good castle. It is an -ancient, strong-built castle, on a limestone rock, five hundred and -sixty paces in circumference, of an hexagon shape: the three gates face -the east, west, and south; within the castle are three hundred houses -and magazines, and a mosque, which was formerly a church. The garrison -is small in number, because it is not a frontier fortress; they only -keep watch against rebels; the lower suburb is a large town, but its -streets being narrow, and going continually up and down hill, it is -with difficulty that a horseman can make his way to the market-place, -and for a waggon to do so is out of the question. This town belongs to -the khass of the Páshá of Sivás, the residence of a Súbashí of seven -hundred purses’ revenue, the judge is appointed with one hundred and -fifty aspers, and there is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, and Kiaya-yerí. -The town comprises forty-three quarters, with sixty mihráb (Jámí and -Mesjids), of which nine are Friday mosques, wherein the Khutbe is -performed. The mosque of the castle was formerly a church, an ancient -place of worship. To the mosque of Melek Ghází, the visitor descends by -five or six steps; it has a slender, thin, well-proportioned minareh: -its equal is not to be seen elsewhere. The mosque of Chaplakáneh -is faced with bricks. At the west end of the town is the mosque of -Júregí; outside of the castle is the mosque of Khalíl Efendí, just -finished, faced with brick; also outside of the castle is the mosque -of the Muftí. The houses of the town, in the valley, and on the hill, -ascending one above the other, are two thousand seven hundred in -number, faced either with earth or bricks. There are three baths, viz., -that of the Muftí in the castle, that of Chaplakháneh outside of the -castle, and that of the Infidels, also outside of the castle, besides -forty-five private baths in the palaces. - - -_The Hot-spring of Nigíssár._ - -It is a small hot-bath outside of the town to the south; the women -and boys of the town wash their clothes here; it is a well-flavoured -water, has no sulphurous smell, and is useful as a remedy in leprous -and arthritic diseases. It is visited every year, in the month of July, -by a great number of people, who amuse themselves for a month, and -then return to their homes. There is a college, and house for reading -of the Korán and tradition, but no kitchen for the poor; there are -seventy schools for boys. The inhabitants are an honest set of people, -with some beautiful women amongst them. There are seven convents, the -first of which is the great convent of Chevregí; that of Elias-dedeh -is not less famous. There are a great number of springs and fountains, -which move as many corn and fulling mills, also five hundred elegant -shops, but no Bezestán. The narrow street, which leads down from the -castle, is lined on both sides with shoemakers’ shops; the principal -streets are paved with large slabs. The inhabitants are fresh-coloured -lively looking Turks, who pay great attention to strangers. Among the -eatables, pomegranates are much famed; they each weigh an occa, and -some even as much as five hundred dirhems, and are of the size of a -man’s head. The cheese, Kufte and Passdagh of this place are famous; -the environs are laid out in rice plantations (Cheltuk). The Black Sea -is two journies distance from this place. - - -_Pilgrimages of Nígíssár._ - -The conqueror of Nígíssár, Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, is -buried near the castle gate. God’s mercy be upon him! Chevregí-boyúk -Sultán lies near the great mosque, beneath a cupola. We left this town -and advanced towards the east, through mountains and forests. After -six hours march we reached Kariebásh Chiftlik, the frontier of Sivás, -here bordering the governorships of Erzerúm, with two hundred Armenian -houses, and a ziamet. The next day, as soon as we trod the ground of -Erzerúm, we offered up a sacrifice of two hundred and seven camels, -and the inhabitants of Erzerúm, with the Kiaya of the Chaúshes, the -Defter-Emíní, the Chaúshlar-Emíní, the Timár Defterdárí, and other -gentlemen of the Diván at their head, came to meet us with presents. - - -_The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm._ - -It is situated in Azerbeíján and Armenia, and, according to some, -erected by Núrshiván; but the truth is that it was by Erzenbaí Ben -Softár Ben Kúndúz, of the dynasty of the White Sheep, whose ancestors -had come from Mahán, and built the castle of Akhlát, on the borders -of the lake Wán; they are all buried at Akhlát, and the ancestors of -the Ottomans, Ertoghrúl and Súleimán, derive their lineage from them. -Uzún Hassan, having become master of Azerbeiján, built the castle -called Hassan, after his name, at Erzerúm. Envious of the conquest of -Constantinople by Mohammed II., he began to trespass on the frontiers, -and to violate the peace. Mohammed II., in defiance of him, conquered -Trebisonde, and defeated him with twenty thousand men in the field of -Terjeán. With great difficulty we traversed the rude pass of Iskefser, -and in three hours we reached Shákhna, an Armenian village of two -hundred houses, where the Armenian girls are wonderfully pretty. From -Constantinople to this place we had constantly ascended towards the -east, and all the rivers were flowing from that direction towards us; -this will show on what high ground Erzerúm is situated. From Shákhna we -crossed the Governorship of Erzerúm, which was our allotted province, -in different directions to the south, north, east, and west, and shall -now describe the stations of these our excursions. - -Tekine is a village in the jurisdiction of Iskefser, with one hundred -houses, a ziámet. Five hours further on is the village of Chádár, of -one hundred houses, in the jurisdiction of Koilí. The castle of Koilí -was built by Usún Hassan, from fear of Mohammed II.; it belongs to -the sanjak Shuban Kara Hissár, in the province of Erzerúm; it is -situated on a high rock, and is one thousand three hundred paces in -circumference. Inside are one hundred houses and magazines, an iron -gate opens to the west; it has a commander and seventy men; the suburb -outside consists of one hundred houses, a mosque and some shops. The -castle saluted us with seventeen guns, and the inhabitants met us -with presents; they slaughtered ten sheep as a sacrifice, for which -they received ten ducats. Two stations north of this village, on the -shore of the Black Sea, is Baihssa-bazárí, which a man on foot may -reach in one day. In the reign of Ahmed I. the Cossacks of Oczakov -pillaged this place: the environs being gardens and flowery meadows -are extremely favourable to bees, and the honey of Koilí-hissár, -scented with musk and ambergris, is famous; the inhabitants are a -turbulent set of people. We descended a deep precipice, and after seven -hours reached the village of Doirán. The river here issues from the -mountains of Kerkúk, is joined by several streams from the mountains of -Koilí-hissár, and below Chehárshenbe by the river of that name, which -passes Amasia. The Kerkúk is an excellent freshwater river. The village -of Doirán, situated on its banks, in the valley of Akshár, consists -of one hundred houses. We now went towards the east four hours, to -Anderes on the frontier of Shuban Kara-hissár, in the valley of Akshár, -a village of one hundred houses. Having marched two hours towards the -east, we reached the Chiftlik of Tabán Ahmed Agha, where the Páshá -was presented with an Arabian horse, and with twenty horses for his -suite, three thousand sheep, seven strings of camels, seven of mules, -and ten purses; it was a great festival, worthy of the Ottoman court -itself. In recompense for this great festival, the giver of it, Ahmed -Agha, was imprisoned in the Kiaya’s room, and bought his life by the -payment of forty purses and seventy camels, by which opportunity I also -got a horse. Two hours further on lies the village of Ezbeder, in the -territory of Shuban Kara-hissár, an Armenian village surrounded with -gardens. Four hours further we reached the valley of Tilismát Za’aba; -the torrent of Tilismát Za’aba issues from the neighbouring mountains, -and falls into the river Akhlát; there are one hundred houses here -built upon rocky ground; the subjects here are all Armenians. A cave -is still shown in which there was formerly a treasure, guarded by two -swords, which were continually moving up and down, a mast has many -times been put beneath them and instantly cut through; a magician has -since got possession of the treasure, but the cave still remains to be -seen. There is, besides, another talisman somewhere hereabout, but I -have not seen it. Five hours from hence is the village Yakúb, on the -frontier of Shuban Kara; three hours further on, that of Korkún Kiassí, -and in one hour more, the village of Barú; after which we came through -the pass of Tekmán, which is closed by the winter for seven or eight -months. After having got through it with much difficulty, we reached -Kázíoghlíkoí, an Armenian village. Four hours further is the castle -of Shírán, on the frontier of Shuban Kara; in four hours the village -of Kara Jalar; in five hours the village of Sáríchalar, inhabited by -Moslíms and Armenians; in eight hours the village of Sálút, the pass -of which we traversed with considerable trouble, and for the space of -five hours were crossing the great plain of Kerkúk. At the end of this -plain is the village of Genj Mohammed Agha, with two hundred houses -and a mosque, on the frontier of the district of Shuban Kara-hissár; -five hours to the east is the village of Keremlí, inhabited by Moslíms -and Armenians; opposite to it, on a hill, lies the Castle of Dermerí, -built in the reign of Sultán Ahmed from fear of the rebels; it is a -small castle with a gate to the north, without commander and garrison. -Here the Páshá made an excursion (Ilghár), with three hundred horsemen, -and we arrived, at the end of twelve hours, at Chághir Kánlí Sultán, -who was a great Sheikh in the time of Sultán Mohammed II. His tomb -is adorned with several lamps (chirághdán), candelabras (shemidán), -censers (búkhúrdán), and vases for sprinkling rose-water (gulábdán). It -is a reverential place, where prayers are put up to Heaven. I visited -it, and read the Súra Yass there; through the sanctity of this saint -the country abounds with cattle. Two Chiftliks are exempted by Imperial -diploma from all taxes; the village consists of three hundred houses, -with a mosque and a convent, the dervishes of which go bareheaded and -barefooted, and wear their hair long. The people carry wooden clubs -in their hands, some of them crooked sticks (litúi). They all came to -wait on the Páshá, and to exhibit the grants of their foundation. The -Páshá asked from whence they dated their immunity, and they invited -him to visit their place of devotion (Sema’ákháneh). We followed them -to a large place where a great fire was lighted of more than forty -waggon-loads of wood, and forty victims sacrificed. They assigned a -place for the Páshá at a distance from the fire, and began to dance -round it, playing their drums and flutes, and crying “Hú!” and “Allah!” -This circular motion being continued for an hour, about an hundred of -these dervishes naked, took their children by the hand, and entered -the fire, the flames of which towered like the pile of Nimrod, crying -“O all constant! O all vivifying!” At the end of half an hour, they -came out of the fire, without the least hurt except the singeing of -their hair and beards, some of them retiring to their cells, instead -of coming before the Páshá, who remained much astonished. They then -gave a feast to the Páshá, which was even greater than Ahmed Tabán’s -feast. It was surprising that they were enabled to prepare such a -feast in so short a time, as the Páshá had arrived suddenly, and by a -by-road. The Páshá confirmed their immunities, and gave them a present -of one hundred ducats. In sixteen hours more we came to the plain of -Terján. The mosque of Sultán Hassan is a praiseworthy monument of Uzún -Hassan, but ít stands alone here. Uzún Hassan, who liked the situation, -intended to build a town here bearing his name, but Sultán Mohammed II. -destroyed all his projects by the famous battle, which was fought on -this plain; it was a scene of great slaughter, even now the peasants -find bones and hidden treasures when ploughing the field. We crossed -this plain hastily, and in eight hours reached the village, where -the Kiaya of the Chaúshes had provided a great feast for the Páshá, -and presented him with five horses, five purses, and three Georgian -slaves. At the end of five hours we reached the village of Púlúr, and -in four hours that of Terjánlí Alí Agha, an Armenian village of three -hundred houses, a mosque and a bath. Alí Agha gave a grand repast here, -accompanied with a present of ten horses, ten purses, ten strings of -camels, and five of mules. We went from hence nine hours further, to -the village of Mama Khatún, in the district of Erzerúm, consisting of -one hundred Mussulman houses; it is a free ziámet. - - -_Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún._ - -This lady is buried beneath a cupola, at the foot of a rock; she was -the daughter of one of the Princes of the Aúk Koyúnlí, and lies buried -here with all her children, but without any keeper attached to her -mausoleum, she is buried in a marble coffin; near it is a mosque and -a bath. Six hours further is the village of Habs, at the western end -of the plain of Erzerúm; it consists of one hundred and fifty Armenian -houses. All the principal men of Erzerúm came to this place with -presents to meet the Páshá’s Diván. We proceeded with a large retinue -for the space of five hours, to the hot-bath, which is also situated -at the western end of the plain of Erzerúm, and where every year some -person or other is drowned. It is a very useful bath, but too warm to -be used without a mixture of cold water. Some of the former princes -have built a dressing-room here (jámeghán), and a basin (havúz): the -climate is pleasant. The Motesellem Mustafa Agha, here presented the -Páshá with an Arabian racehorse, caparisoned with jewels, a sable -pelisse, a quiver, and a sword set with jewels, a dagger and a girdle, -and ten racehorses, mounted by ten Georgian boys, all armed. His three -hundred and seventy slaves were clad in showy dresses, like so many -waiting youths in Paradise. He gave also to me, poor Evliyá, a sable -fur, some cloth, and one hundred piastres, because I had been master -to his son for some time. Our arrival at this hot-bath was exactly -the seventieth journey we had made since we left Constantinople, and -an entrance in grand procession was organized, which outrivalled in -brilliancy those of the greatest Vezírs. Indeed, the Páshá was a -Commander-in-Chief (Serdár), who by Imperial rescript (Khattí Sheríf) -was allowed even to use the Túghra, or cypher of the Sultán. The troops -of Erzerúm paraded on both sides of the way from this hot bath, which -is six hours distance from Erzerúm, up to the gates of the town; with -cuirasses and casques, bearing long lances, their horses being adorned -with knots of sea-horses’ bristles, and various other trappings. The -Páshá was surrounded by eight body-guards (Shátir), who wore golden -caps on their heads, carried battle-axes in their hands, had golden -girdles, and splendid caftáns, walking like the peacocks of Paradise. -On the right and left of the Páshá walked the Matarají-bashí (keeper -of the leaden bottle, which contains the water for purification), and -the Tufenkjí-bashí, or head of the fuzileers, bearing a water-bottle -set with jewels, and muskets of costly workmanship. The Páshá passed -between two lines, greeting both sides, and the people returned his -salute. Four hundred Ulemás all clad in armour were headed by the -Imám, and I, poor Evliya, as Múëzzin. Behind us followed the treasurer -and the standard-bearer, with the eightfold Turkish music. The Tátár -troops, the Muteferrika, the chamberlains, passed, all clad in armour. -As soon as the procession drew near Erzerúm, the fortress began to -salute by firing the great guns from the highest tower, called Kessik -Kala’á, as a selám aleikum, after which the Janissaries fired the guns -of the inner castle, and so continued during the procession. But when -the Páshá himself entered the gate of Erzenján, the six hundred and -seventy guns, which compose the artillery of the fortress, were all -discharged at once, and the skies were rent and the earth trembled. -Seven regiments of Janissaries lined the way from the gates of the town -to the gates of the palace, ready to salute the Páshá, who, as soon as -he had entered the palace, was saluted once more by a general discharge -of the artillery on the walls. Many hundred victims were sacrificed, -and a splendid repast equal to that of Mádí Kerb followed. After dinner -the music played, and a diván was held, wherein, after the decision -of many lawsuits, the twenty-seven Aghas of the castle, those of the -Janissaries, artillerymen, armourers, &c., were invested with seventy -brilliant robes of honour, and Molla Chelebí Efendí, the relation of -Emír Bokhara, with a green sable pelisse. I received a caftán in my -degree of clerk of the custom-house. The governor then most graciously -assigned me a lodging in the palace built by Tekelí Mustafa Páshá, -where I lived quietly, sometimes keeping company with the Governor, and -at others discharging the functions of clerk of the custom-house. I had -full opportunity of acquiring the most perfect knowledge of the state -of Erzerúm, as I was allowed to see all the kanúns, registers, and -protocols. - - -_Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm._ - -It was wrested out of the hands of Kara Yússúf, the son of Uzún -Hassan, by Sultán Mohammed II. The khass of the Vezír is fixed at one -million, two hundred and fourteen thousand six hundred aspers; the -whole province is divided into twelve sanjaks. The officers are a -Defterdár of the treasury, a Kiaya of the Defterdár of the Timárs, a -Kiaya and Inspector of the Chaúshes, an Alaï-Beg, and a Cherí-bashí. -The sanjaks are as follows:—Kara-hissár, Akií, Pássin, Siper, Hassan, -Melázgerd, Tekmán, Kúrúján, Túrtúm, Mujtekerd, Mámreván, and Erzerúm. -The khass of the Defterdár of the treasury amounts to one million and -fifty-two thousand nine hundred aspers; that of the kiaya of the fiefs -to fifty thousand, and that of the Defterdár of the fiefs to twenty -thousand two hundred. There are fifty-six ziamets, and two thousand two -hundred and nineteen timárs; the feudal militia number five thousand -two hundred and seventy-nine swords, and the Jebellís, in time of -war, twelve thousand men, besides two thousand men who are furnished -by the khass of the Páshá. The soldiers of Erzerúm are stout, brave -fellows. The judge is a Molla, with a revenue of five hundred aspers, -with three subordinate Naíbs or Vicars. An Agha of the Janissaries, -an Agha of the artillerymen, and one of the armourers, who are all -in the interior fortress. Abasa Páshá, the famous rebel, one night -surprised this fortress, and put the whole garrison of Janissaries to -the sword, except the Agha, who was absent that night by accident, and -consequently escaped. Abaza remained in rebellious possession of it -for ten years, in defiance of seven Vezírs, who marched against him -with the power of absolute command, such as Cherkess Mohammed Dishlín -Hossein Páshá, Timúr Kázík Khalíl Páshá, &c. but owing to the strength -of the fortress, they were unable to reduce the rebel, until Khosrew -Páshá assumed the command; he took Abaza prisoner, and carried him with -him into the presence of Sultán Murád IV. He obtained a general pardon, -and was first made Governor of Bosnia, afterwards of Bude, and finally -of Ozakov, which he retained up to the time of the expedition against -Eriván. The troops rebelling at that moment, called loudly for Abaza -Páshá, which, coming to the ears of the Sultán, he ordered him to be -killed, and buried in the tomb of Murád Páshá, near the market of the -ink-makers. He escaped, however, and wandered for some time in Arabia -and Persia, re-appearing at Erzerúm the same year that we came there. -I saw his blood even before my own door, because Silihdár Súleimán -Páshá cut his head off on the arrival of our Motessellím, or Páshá’s -substitute. Since the rebellion of Abaza, the greatest attention -has been paid to this important post by the government; it has been -strengthened by an immense artillery, and six companies, so that the -whole garrison amounts to two thousand five hundred men, a commander -of the castle, Dizdár, and twelve Aghas. In the inner castle are one -hundred and eighty cannons, and at the gate of Tabríz, in the centre -of the two fortresses, are twelve large cannons, placed there by Murád -IV. The fortress is situated at a gun’s shot from Mount Egerlí; on the -north and north-west extends the plain of Erzerúm, two miles square, a -fertile flowery field, covered with villages. - - -_Description of the great river Euphrates._ - -The great river Euphrates flows through the middle of the plain of -Erzerúm. Its source is at the bottom of the pilgrimage of Dúmlibaba, -on the east side of Georgia; it flows towards the west, causing in its -way many marshes and canals, passes before the village of Kián, the -castle of Kemáni, through the Yaila of a thousand lakes, inhabited by -the Curds Izúlí, joins the Murád (the name of which it assumes), and -passes like a sea in the neighbourhood of Malatia to Samosat, Kala’aí -Rúm, Birejík, the bridge Búmbúja, Bálissa, Ja’aber, Rakie, Rahbie, -Karkessia, Ania, Hita, Ebyár, Takúk, Helle, and Kúfa; it is joined at -Kaverna by the Shatt-ul-arab (Tigris), and thus becomes an immensely -large river, which is ascended by Indian ships from Bassra; the whole -extent, with all its windings, is four hundred farsangs; it passes -four hundred towns and villages. In the plain of Erzerúm its water is -very sweet and palatable, well worth being recorded in the Korán by -the verse:—“And we gave you to drink of the water of the Euphrates.” -Besides the Euphrates no less than seventy-two rivers descend from -the mountains of Erzerúm and Diárbekr. Makrisí says, that the Tigris -and Euphrates were dug out by Daniel with the assistance of Angels. -The Tigris is the Shatt, which rises east of Diárbekr, between Torjíl -and Miafarekein, receives an infinite number of springs, and goes to -Hossní Kaifa and Mossul. This river unites the upper and lower Zarb, -and becomes a tremendous and roaring stream which is called the mad -Zarb. It was of the river Euphrates that the prophet is reported to -have said:—“O inhabitants of Cufa, your river Euphrates takes up two -channels of Paradise.” Imám Ja’afer is reported to have said in praise -of this river:—“If the inhabitants of Irák and Rúm were acquainted with -all the excellent qualities of the Euphrates, they would build a wall -on each side of it. Whoever bathes therein three times, may be certain -of being cured of many diseases.” Another tradition on the Euphrates -is reported by Abúhoreirí, as follows:—“The last day shall not arrive -till the Euphrates flows not from a mountain of gold, on which men are -killing each other; ninety-nine shall be killed out of each hundred, -and yet every one shall say, ‘perhaps it is I who may be saved.’” The -Euphrates and Orontis (A’assí), are the only two rivers which touch -the frontier of the Holy Land. The Euphrates freezes in the winter so -that during two months many caravans cross it, but it never freezes -south of Erzerúm; it is a sweet clear water, and a great comfort to the -inhabitants of Erzerúm, though they have the spring, called the Source -of Paradise, within their walls. - - -_Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm._ - -It consists of two castles of a square form, the distance between the -two walls is seventy paces; the ditch is eighty paces broad, and twenty -deep, but, on the side of the Gurjí and Erzenján gates, the ditch is -not so deep: the whole circumference is eighty thousand paces, and it -has three gates, that to the west is the gate of Erzenján, where the -ditch is crossed by a bridge; the second to the east, and the third -to the north, are likewise entered by crossing bridges. The first, -which is the Georgian gate (Gúrji), is double, like that of Erzenján; -but that of Tabríz, as it is close to the walls of the inner castle, -is only a single one. The guns are all pointed towards the quarters -of the town Dáragháj and Gumishlí Kunbed. Within the outer castle is -an immense tower reaching to the skies, known by the name of Kessik -Kulle, on the top of which is a high wooden Koshk; as it is one hundred -cubits high, ten guns pointed from thence in all directions, intercept -even the flight of birds. The height of the wall of the inner castle -is seventy cubits; the other walls are but from forty to fifty cubits -high; there are two hundred and ten strong towers, and two thousand and -eighty battlements round the castle, and seventeen hundred houses, all -covered with earth (_terrasses_) in the ancient style, so also are all -the villages which I saw in the whole government of Erzerúm. - - -_Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm._ - -The palace of the Páshá has no less than one hundred and ten rooms of -various sizes, for the Diván and Koshks; of the last, the two finest -are those of Tayár Páshá, and of Benlí Páshá, with a bath and a fine -fountain. On the outside, above the stables, are the rooms for the -watchmen; the court-yard is a spacious place where they play the jeríd. -It has two gates, one is that of the Diván, opening on the great road, -the other is a secret gate, always kept shut. Erzerúm contains seventy -quarters of Moslíms, and seven of Infidels. There are no Armenians, -Copts, or Jews; if any make their appearance they run the risk of being -killed. In the quarter called the Source of Paradise the houses are -built of stone; most of them are only one story high, because the air -is sharp and the winter severe. It has been known to snow here for ten -or eleven months in the year, which is the reason that the greatest -part of the houses are built of one story, like a bath, with windows, -and a felt door on the top. - - -_Of the Mosques._ - -There are seventy-seven mihrábs; the oldest is the great mosque inside -the gate of Tabríz, with a minareh in the ancient style, built by the -Princes of the Akche Koyúnlí, two hundred feet square. The mimber and -mihráb are also in the ancient style; it is supported by two hundred -columns of fir-tree, and the cupola is also of wood; on one side of the -mosque the biscuit for the garrison of Eriván is kept. On the east side -of this mosque, close to the wall, is an old college with two minarehs; -some say that they were built by the Princes of the Akche Koyúnlí, -while others ascribe them to Uzún Hassán; in short, it is an old -prayer-place, which has been cruelly damaged in the different sieges -of Erzerúm, and never been repaired because it was never endowed. -Within the gates of Tabríz are two tall minarehs, the shining porcelain -of which dazzles the eyes of beholders; tumblers exhibit their skill -on ropes extended between these two high minarehs. Sultán Murad IV. -converted the ruined mosque into a cannon foundry. God grant it may -be repaired! The mosque of Lále Mustafa Páshá, before the gate of the -Seraï on the great road, built by the grand Vezír of Sultán Súleimán. -Its cupola is built in the style of those of Constantinople, eighty -feet square, and covered with lead. Its mihráb, mimber, and mahfíl are -very simple. Outside is a stone bench, but the courtyard is narrow. It -is the work of the great architect Sinán. Its sheikh is Wání Efendí, -one of the most learned divines, and famed commentators, a second -Na’amán, an eloquent man, whose renown is spread all over the empire; -its Imám is a high-minded priest, who knows the whole Korán by heart, -whose reading plunges those who listen into the depths of meditation. -He is a most perfect musician, and is called the Imám of the -Janissaries; and if the Muëzzin, a second Belál (the Prophet’s Muëzzin) -ascends the minareh, and proclaims with David’s voice Mahommed’s shout, -“God is great, God is great,” all hearers begin to tremble, every -person leaves his business or repast, and hastens to the mosque. All -the inhabitants of Erzerúm are devout, pious men. Ja’afer Efendi’s -mosque is a pleasing new built mosque, with a high cupola and gate, a -courtyard and a spouting fountain; the windows are guarded with iron -gratings. In the inner castle is an old mosque much frequented. Outside -of the gate of Erzenján is the Páshá’s mosque, covered with lead, and -outside of the gate of Tabríz, on the edge of the ditch, is the mosque -of Mohammed Páshá, with one minareh, and with a terrace. Besides these -great mosques (Jami’í), there are also seventy-seven mesjíds, one -hundred and ten schools for boys, convents, and houses for reading the -Korán. - - -_Fountains._ - -On the market-place, is the Source of Paradise, Jennet-bunár; and -outside of the gate of Erzenján is the Camel fountain; on the fountain -of Mustafa Páshá on the edge of the ditch, outside the gate of Tabríz -is this inscription from the Korán saying:—“there are flowing -fountains in it (Paradise).” There are seventy Se-bílkháneh, or places -where water is distributed. - - -_Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets._ - -The most elegant bath is that of Ja’afer Efendí, there are seventy -kháns, some of them for Caravans (Caravanseraï); some for merchants -(Kháns, _par excellence_); some for unmarried workmen (barracks); of -the latter there are ten, where foreign workmen find accommodation. The -Bezestán has eight hundred shops, four gates and a stone cupola. The -markets of the saddlers, goldsmiths, button-makers and tailors are very -elegant. The mint is near the gate of Erzenján. - - -_Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c._ - -The inhabitants are all Turkomans and Armenian kurds, of lively -complexion, middle size, stout, strong in youth, and vigorous in old -age. From ten to twenty-five years of age they are extremely fine, but -after that they quickly become hairy men, good natured and brave. The -principal men dress in sable furs, the Ulemás in ferrájís of cloth and -caftáns of Bogassin; the workmen wear abbas, and sometimes a caftán of -Bogassin. During three months the air is mild and pleasant; the water -is sweet and extremely wholesome for the women; whoever drinks of the -spring called the Source of Paradise in the summer, understands in its -full sense, the verse of the Korán, “Water vivifies all things.” Seeds -ripen here in sixty days, and bring forth fruit from eighty to one -hundred fold; there are seven sorts of corn, one of which is as white -as camel’s teeth. The workmanship of the tailors and goldsmiths is -very skilful. They make two kinds of pies here, one of chicken and the -other of a sort of vegetable called Cheresh; white and excellent pastry -(Chorek), white bread called Koláj, and meat roasted on stoves, &c. -Their beverages are Sherbet of Ribbes, and excellent Búza. - -The walks are the place of the Jeríd; at the mills in the meadow; -the place of Gumishlí Kunbed (the silver vault), and the Convent of -Abd-ur-rahman Ghází. - - -_Genealogies of Erzerúm._ - -Outside of the gates of the fortress on the east, west and north -sides, is the suburb, inhabited by more than thirty thousand Rayas; -on the south side, from the gate of Tabríz to that of Erzenján a wall -has been begun, had it been finished, it would have made Erzerúm an -amazingly strong fortress. Between this wall and the castle is the -suburb divided into seven quarters. The suburb of the Tabríz gate -extends from the quarters of Dáragách, and that of Dúlúkler to Gumishlí -Kunbed. The suburb of the Georgians on the north side, is the quarter -of the rich merchants; here is the custom-house where I was employed -as clerk: round it are the houses of Persian, Indian, and Chinese -merchants, next to the custom-houses of Constantinople and Smyrna, that -of Erzerúm is the most busy. The suburb of Erzenján extends, on the -eastern side of the castle-gate, from the Camel fountain to the mill -of Alí. This suburb being mostly inhabited by Armenians, there are -thirteen churches here. The Infidels wear variegated turbans, and blue -coats, and the lower classes wear felt, with coarse shoes called Chárk; -their women wrap white sheets round their heads, and the Musselmán -women wear pointed caps of gold and silver stuff, velvet trowsers and -yellow boots: they are extremely pretty, their teeth as well arranged -as their words; with their beautiful hair, dragging a thousand lovers -after them as slaves. The men are long-lived, in society may be -found many men past seventy years of age, with full use of all their -faculties. They generally speak a peculiar dialect, but their divines -and poets speak with great eloquence, and their story-tellers delight -intelligent people by their tales of Hamza, and by Chinese shades. -There are also many Santons and holy men, of whom Allahán-dede was -famous for his uxoriousness. Though the air of Erzerúm is cold, yet -its vegetables are abundant, its soil being extremely fertile, and -blessed with productions of all kind, which makes Erzerúm one of the -cheapest places in the world. Though Erzerúm has neither gardens nor -vineyards, yet it is famed for roses; some winter apples and pears -are the only fruits which are found here. Plane-trees and willows are -in abundance in all the walks and in the rose-gardens; on account of -their long winter and short summer, the sowing and harvest is over in -two months. At the time I was at Erzerúm there happened, in the month -of July, when the horses were out at grass, such a storm of lightning, -thunder, hail and snow, that all the horses broke away and ran half mad -to the neighbouring villages. The length and severity of the winter -here is explained by the following tale. They asked a Dervish “from -whence he came?” he said, “from the snow of Divine Mercy;” they asked, -“what was the name of the place;” “Erzerúm,” said the Dervish, which -may be spelled Erezolúm (cruel to man); they continued to ask “whether -he had seen any summer there.” The Dervish said, “By God, I remained -there eleven months and nine and twenty days, the people said that -summer was coming, but I did not see it. It happened, however, that a -cat, which ran over the roofs of the houses, became froze there while -in the act of running, and remained so for the space of nine months, -when the spring arriving, the cat began to thaw, cried ‘Miaú!’ and fell -down.” This tale has become a common proverb. It is really a fact, -that if a man touches a piece of iron with his wet hand during winter, -they freeze together, and cannot be separated without tearing off the -skin. I have passed forty days in the coldest weather at Assov, and -in the desert of Kipchák, but I never felt cold like this; the people -are, however, very healthy. The fruits come from Isper, Tortúm, and -Erzenján; peaches, apricots, and grapes are sold at the weight of an -occa for a para; a waggon-load of melons or water-melons may be had for -ten paras. Eatables are found here in great perfection, but there is no -wood, the mountains being naked; wood is nevertheless very cheap, as -it is brought from mountains at two journey’s distance; a mast of from -thirty to forty cubits length is sold for forty aspers. The Páshá’s -wood is brought to the town by the camels of the caravans, which arrive -at the custom-house. An agha has the inspection of the wood; the poor -people burn cow-dung. The Rayas place the stove in the middle of the -house, on the sides of which the cattle stand; the house is as warm as -a bath, and they cook their bones and offal on the fire. - - -_Description of Mount Egerlí._ - -This is a high mountain, at half an hour’s distance on the south -side of Erzerúm, its name is derived from its form, which is like a -saddle (Eger); its top is bifurcated, it abounds in medical herbs, -particularly in the Tútia flower, the scent of which perfumes the air. -Oculists come here to collect the plant Tútia, and with it cure people -who have been diseased for forty years. The odour of aromatic plants -and scented flowers fills the atmosphere. - - -_Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr._ - -I once played Jeríd at the foot of this mountain, when I fell from -the horse, and in falling said to myself, “Where art thou now, -saddle-mountain (Egerlítág)?” Having recovered my senses I mounted -another horse, and galloping full speed towards the mountain, I -ascended it. I saw on the top a large tomb, on which I first said a -fátihah, and having measured it by my steps, I found it eighty paces -in length, with two columns, which marked the situation of the head -and the feet. I was looking on the tomb, when a bad smell arose, very -disagreeable both to me and my servants, who held the horses; I looked -on the grave, and saw that the earth within it, being black and greasy, -was boiling like gruel in a pan. I then returned, and having related -my adventure in the Páshá’s company in the evening, Ja’afer Efendi of -Erzerúm, a learned and elegant writer, warned me not to visit this -place any more, because it was the grave of Balaam, the son of Baúr, -who had died an Infidel by the curse of Moses, and whose grave was -now boiling, both in winter and summer, by subterraneous fire. At the -foot of the same mountain, Abd-ur-rahman Ghází, the standard-bearer -of the prophet, lies buried. One day I ascended from the south side -of the convent about two thousand paces, when I saw on the second -top of this bifurcate mountain a tremendous dragon turned into black -stone. It measured seven hundred and seventy paces from the head to -the tail, the head looks to the field of Erzerúm, the tail to the -castle of Meláz Kerd. If snow falls on the mountains, the figure of -this black dragon is easily distinguished from the windows of the -Páshá’s palace; the circumference of its body is two hundred paces, -each of its four feet is as large as ten men put together, and its -tail is raised like a minareh. It remained whole until the reign of -Selím I. when it was broken by an earthquake, so that its fragments now -lay scattered about. The head was then split asunder, and one of the -eye-balls rolled down on the south side towards Melázguerd, where it -lies on the plain like a cupola; the left eye-ball of the same size, -yet remains in the petrified head, and is seen very distinctly with its -ears, tongue, nose, and mouth every time it snows, because no snow will -remain on this black stone, but melts away, and renders more prominent -the black colour of it. In winter the stone becomes hot, and emits -vapour; in summer it is cold, and exhales a pleasant odour. The legend -reports that this most tremendous dragon was changed into stone by the -Prophet’s standard-bearer, when it came to swallow up the inhabitants -of Erzerúm as food for its young, who were shut up in a cave of Mount -Siján, on the borders of the lake Ván. - - -_Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní._ - -His name is Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak, a native of the town -Kárzún, where he was born in the year 352 of the Hejira. In his travels -he visited Brússa and Adrianople and returned to Erzerúm, where he -settled in a great tower within the gate of Tabríz; his tomb-keeper -is a white-bearded woman, whom I saw when I visited the tomb. Shehíd -Murteza Páshá, who was shut up seven months in Eriván, is buried at -the foot of Abú Ishak Kárzúní, with Abaza Páshá, who was killed by -Dishlín Hossein Páshá. Opposite to the Páshá’s palace, in a pointed -vault, lies Sultán Kássim, the son of Mahmúd Gazneví, and near him -his sister Fírúzeh Khánum. Outside of the gate of Erzenján, above the -camel’s fountain, Jánpúland-zadeh, lies Mustafa Páshá, who after the -conquest of Eriván was killed by the grand Vezír Mohammed Pásha. He was -a protector of my father and myself. Abd-ur-rahman, the standard-bearer -of the Prophet, is buried at the foot of Egerlítágh, in a fine convent. -Outside of the gate of Tabríz, at the place called Gumishlí Kunbed (the -silver vault), because it was once faced with silver, reposes Sultán -Mahmúd, the Gasnevide, on whose marble coffin is written only the -word Mahmúd. There are besides many other pilgrimages, which I had no -opportunity of visiting. - - -_Stations of our military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík._ - -Letters of complaint arrived from Genj Alí Khán, the Khán of Eriván, -stating that the rebellious Beg of the Castle of Shúshík had broken the -peace by inroads into the Persian districts of Eriván. The sanjak Begs, -Timariots and Zaims were summoned to take the field with half of their -contingents, and to assemble at the Silver vault. The Páshá himself -fixed his tent there, with seventy banners of Segbán or Seimen and -Sárija (irregular troops), and four thousand regulars. The Beglerbegs -assembled around him, pitching their tents according to the orders -issued. It was an army of seventy-six thousand men. When the Persian -Envoy saw this immense army collected, he repented of his complaint -against the Beg of Shúshík, because he was afraid that this army might -receive orders to lay siege to Eriván. Alaja Atlí Hassan Agha, with -a thousand horse, was named Quarter-master (Konákjí-bashí); he took -the van with the tails and tens. Sídí Ahmed Páshá was named Chárkají, -or leader of the vanguard, and Bákí Páshá, Dúmdár, or leader of the -rearguard. The army set out from the Silver vault in such order that -the Persian Envoys and Khans remained quite perplexed. After four -hours march it reached the place called the Camel’s Neck (Deve-boiní), -where the Páshá, commander-in-chief, gave an entertainment to all the -Begs and Beglerbegs, after which every one retired to his tent; this -is a pleasant meadow, where our horses were refreshed with excellent -trefoil, it is also the commencement of the field of Pássin. In winter -time snow lies here to the height of a minareh, and many caravans have -been lost in it. It was the snow that prevented Tabáni Yassí Mohammed -Páshá from passing the Deve-boiní, and as he did not arrive before -Eriván soon enough, that fortress was taken from the Osmanlís after -seven months siege by the Persians. Three hours further towards the -east, we arrived at the village Ja’afer Efendí, where Ja’afer Efendí, -its owner, gave a splendid entertainment to the Páshá, with a present -of three horses, and three boys. It is a well cultivated Armenian -village of three hundred houses. We marched five hours across the plain -of Pássin to the strong fortress of Rúm Hassan, renovated by Uzún -Hassan, the Sultán of Azerbeiján; it is a lofty castle which was taken -by Sultán Súleimán out of the hands of the children of Kara Yússúf, -and is now the seat of the sanjak Beg of Pássin, in the province of -Erzerúm. The khass amounts, according to the canon of Sultán Súleimán, -to twelve thousand four hundred aspers; there are six Zaims, and three -hundred and twenty-five Timariots. An Alaï Beg, Cherí-bashí, and -Yuz-bashí (Colonel, Captain, and Lieutenant), are the officers of the -feudal militia. In the time of war, the number of the troops amounts -to fifteen hundred, the half of which now joined the Páshá’s army. The -castle saluted the Páshá, as soon as his tent was fixed, with a great -noise of guns and muskets. The Páshá sent an order to the commander -to place the whole garrison under arms on the walls, as he wished to -enter in state. When we entered it shouts of Allah rent the skies, -and the reports of the guns shook them, so that the Persian Envoy -was quite perplexed, putting the finger of astonishment to his lips. -In the inside of the castle, the space between the outer and inner -gate was set round with armour and different kinds of weapons, and -beginning from the hot-bath gate, both sides of the road were lined, -two deep, by armed men, who gave the salute. The prayer of Friday was -performed in the mosque, and when we left it all the walls were covered -with flags and banners of different colours. The Páshá entered the -inner castle, where the guns of Sultán Súleimán, of forty four spans -length, were fired, and the balls were thrown as far as the Bridge of -the Shepherds, Shobán Jissrí. Here the company sat down to a splendid -dinner, after which the Beg and Dizdár were invested with robes of -honour. The Páshá returned to his tent, where he received the visit of -the judge (appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers), the Serdár -of the Janissaries, the Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, of the Muftí, the -Nakib-ul-ishráf, and other principal men (Ayán.) - - -_Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan._ - -It is situated on the northern side of the field of Pássin, on an -isolated high cliff, so high, that to look down from the side of the -hot-bath makes the head giddy. Inside there is nobody but the Imám, -the Múezzin, and the Dizdár, or commander. Horses and asses cannot -get up to this place. There is a small Koshk built for Murad IV. by -our protector Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, at the time of the expedition -to Eriván, was the imperial sword-bearer, having succeeded the former -sword-bearer, who was removed from his office because the coverlet -of the Sultán’s bed was set fire to by a spark one night. The -circumference of the castle is one thousand paces, without a ditch; -an iron gate opens to the west. On the north side, below the upper or -innermost castle, is another castle with two walls, whose circumference -is six thousand paces. It is an oblong square, of a shining whiteness. -The walls are but eighteen yards high, but they are double, and on -three sides the ditch is very deep, so that there is no fear of an -enemy; the ground being marshy, no trenches can be opened. Its three -gates are: on the west side, the gate of Erzerúm, a great gate with -iron wings; the gate of the hot-bath, and a secret gate, shut to the -east side; there is a garrison of seven hundred men, with a well-filled -arsenal, and sixty large and small guns. Towards the south opens -the plain of Pássin, which is seven journies long. The houses, five -hundred and ninety in number, are all stone-built winter houses: the -town consists of nine quarters, with as many mosques. The mosque of -Súleimán is a low terraced mosque, with one minareh in the ancient -style; there is no Bezestán or Medresse, but six schools for boys, a -khán, and a bath. The inhabitants are a brave set of people, kind to -foreigners. There are some men of wit and learning. The great poet -Nefií Efendí was born here; no gardens exist round the castle, because -it is too cold, nevertheless, vegetables are found here in abundance. -Bread and honey are rather to be suspected, for I, myself, poor Evliyá, -having eaten some honey in the commander’s house, became in half an -hour so giddy that I thought of throwing myself down from the castle. - - -_Description of the Hot-baths._ - -On the south side of the lower town (Robáth), on the Kiblah side, are -several hot-baths; seven of them are covered with small cupolas, and -in eight other places the water is boiling in the open air, each place -being used for different animals, such as horses, mules, camels, sheep, -and others. The water of these hot-baths is carried to distant places -on camels, and those who are afflicted with leprosy are cured if they -drink of it. - -Three hours to the east from hence, we came to the village of Sefer -Agha, consisting of one hundred Armenian houses, in the field of -Pássin. Three hours further on, is the great Bridge of the Shepherds -(Chobán Koprissí). It is called so because it was built by Melek -Sultán, of the dynasty of the shepherds (Chobán). It is vaulted like a -rainbow over the river Aras, which comes from the great Gok-yaila, and -flows to the east; passes under Melázjerd, before the village of Artof, -the castle of Khinis, beneath the bridge of Altún Khalkalí, supplies -water to many hundred villages below the Bridge of the Shepherds, -joins the Zengi river below Eriván, which falls into the Kúr (Cyrus), -and with it disembogues into the Caspian Sea. The river Aras (Aranes) -is an impetuous river, which, at the melting of the snow, rages like -the sea. The army passed during three days over the bridge, with the -Páshá himself in grand state. After seven hours we came to the village -of Great Artof, in the sanjak of Khinis, a village of one hundred -Armenian houses. Eight hours further to the east, is the village of -Kúzúlí Sultán Baba, belonging to Khinis. The castle, which lies six -hours further on, was built by Shah Shapúr, the uncle of Uzún Hassan, -the Prince of Azerbeiján. It was conquered by Sultán Súleimán, and -is now the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to Erzerúm. The khass is -forty-eight thousand four hundred aspers, two ziamets, and four hundred -and twenty-five timárs, with the Jebellís, two thousand men, besides -one thousand men of the Páshá’s troops, all Kurds of the tribe Mahmudí. -The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers; there is no -Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Muftí, or Nakíb, but there is a Disdár. - - -_Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis._ - -It is three journies distance (if you walk fast) from Erzerúm, and is -a square, strong built castle, in the centre of a piece of high table -land, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The height of the -castle wall is ten cubits, it is six thousand paces in circumference, -with a gate to the north. In the eastern quarter of the castle is a -clear fountain. Below the castle, at the foot of the wall, is an iron -grating, which intercepts the stream, and distributes its water into -the gardens. The gate of the castle is near this spring; there are -within the castle twelve hundred Kurdish houses, and seven mosques, -a khán, a bath, and some small streets; the houses are all covered -with earth, and no bricks are to be seen. The inhabitants are all -Mahmúdí Kurds, rich in sheep and goats; every year they repair with -their cattle to the mountains of Boyúk-gol-yaila. Here the Beg of -Melázjerd, in his quality of sanjak Beg of Erzerúm, came with three -thousand well-armed Mahmúdí Kurds. He was invested with a robe of -honour, and presented with a Chelenk, and took the van of the army. -Ghazí Sídí Ahmed Páshá, commanding an army of fifty-three thousand men, -with twelve guns and two culverins, directed his march from Khinis to -Shúshík, and the Páshá, our master, remained with twelve hundred men on -the field of Khinis. We now marched to the east, through precipices, -for six hours, till we came to Khássík, a Kurdish village of two -hundred houses, and I, poor Evliyá, advanced with two hundred horse to -the castle of Zia-ud-dín, nine hours further; it is a strong castle in -the territory of Azerbeiján, built by the Princes of that name. It is -the frontier of the sanjak of Khinis; its keys were surrendered to the -Ottomans after the conquest of Ván, and the inhabitants were exempted -from all duties. There is no Serdár and Kiaya-yerí; there is a mosque -and six hundred houses, with terraces and lower stories only, a khán, -a bath, and from forty to fifty shops. The inhabitants are brave and -honest. - - -_Description of the Hot-bath._ - -Between the river Aras, the lake of Ván, and the castle of Arjesh, is a -famous hot-bath, in the neighbourhood of the castle Zia-ud-dín. It is -a curious fact that the springs rise in five or six different places; -at some of them the water is as cold as ice, in others it boils like -gruel. Here is a spring so cold that the hand cannot bear it, and close -to it one in which eggs and sheep’s feet are cooked. Only one of these -hot springs is covered with a cupola, the rest are exposed to the open -air; every one is large enough to drive a mill. We now turned to the -west, along the mountains of Súnjáb-Ainí, and arrived after nine hours -at the castle of Atík, built like the former, by Zia-ud-dín, the Prince -of Azerbeiján; it is a square castle on a rock. - - -_Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík._ - -It was built by Zia-ud-dín, the son of Sultán Hassan, and is a square -castle, on the top of a high rock. The camp was fixed at the distance -of a gunshot from the castle, and the siege began immediately. As soon -as the Mussulman victors opened the trenches, all the guns were fired -from the castle, and seventy men fell to the ground as martyrs. The -Commander, Sídí Ahmed Páshá, exhorting the Begs, Beglerbegs, and other -officers, with sweet words and presents and himself making all possible -exertions, brought four cannons on to the heights opposite the eastern -side of the castle, which being fired, killed Chendán Beg, the nephew -of the Beg of the castle. At the same moment a great lamentation arose -in the castle, and the Ottoman victors began to ascend the breaches by -ladders; in short, the siege lasted twenty-four hours, and the next -day the flags of truce were planted on the battlements, and all the -Kurds were crying Amán! Amán! O chosen family of Osmán! The commander, -Sídí Ahmed Páshá, with his first Colonel, went to the gates of the -castle, from which came out seven Kurdish Begs as hostages; they said, -“On this night Mustafa Beg, our Beg, deserted the castle and fled to -the Persians.” Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave no credit to this report, and -told them to find their Beg, lest they might have their hands cut -like sheeps’ feet; he fettered them, put seven hundred men into the -castle, confiscated all the goods found in the palace of the Beg, -disarmed the Kurds, collected three thousand muskets and six thousand -swords and other arms, and sent the merry news to my Lord, Mohammed -Páshá. The same day the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was proclaimed in the -castle; two thousand muskets and many guns were fired as a salute; the -whole district of Shúshík, up to the Persian frontier, was ravaged -and pillaged, and the Moslím victors enriched with the booty of -some hundred thousand sheep, oxen and mules. Men were sent into the -interior of the country in search of the Beg, but only found a spy, -whose nose and ears were in the first place slit, but at the moment -the executioner was about to cut off his head, he implored the Páshá’s -mercy, saying that he had something of importance to communicate to -him. He said that the Beg of Shúshík had fallen into the hands of the -Persian Khán of Magú, and was imprisoned there. Bákí Páshá, Katgáj -Páshá, and Dilawer Páshá, with the Beg of Melázjerd, Mohammed Beg, with -three thousand men, were ordered to go in search of the Beg of Shúshík -at the castle of Magú. I, poor Evliyá, was also in the expedition. -We marched across the Minváldereh amidst the mountains, and at the -end of eight hours, reached the tomb of Tahmúrass Khán, a Persian, -who was killed in the war of Cighálezadeh, and buried at this spot; -here are two hundred Armenian houses, which pay tribute to the Beg of -Shúshík, and to the Persians. We advanced for seven hours through a -woody country, and for two more through flowery fields, and arrived -at the castle of Magú, built by Núshirván. The Kurds submitted to -Súleimán, who made a present of this castle to the Beg of the Mahmúdí -tribe. The Persians took it from them, and it is now subordinate to the -governor of Melázjerd. In the time of the grand Vezír of Sultan Murad -IV. Kara Mustafa Páshá, after the conquest of Baghdád, went to Derne -and Derteng, in order to settle the boundary; my lord, Melek Ahmed -Páshá, my gracious protector, was then Governor of Diarbekr, and named -on this commission for settling the frontiers and renewing the peace. -The Ottomans had laid waste the castle of Zálim, in the province of -Shehrzol, and the Persians that of Kotúr, in the province of Ván. The -Ottomans also took possession of Magú, and transferred the Beg and the -garrison to Melázjerd. Under the pretext of the rebellion of the Beg of -Shúshík, the Persians laid hold of Magú, which is a fortress, like the -castles of Ván, Márdín, Shuban Kara, Afiún Kara Hissár, A’adil Jiwás, -Tokát, and Amasia. - - -_Size and Form of Magú._ - -It is situated on a high and steep rock, the base of which is thin and -narrow, and towers into the skies, being inaccessible on all sides. -There is but one gate to which you ascend by a small staircase cut -in the rock like a minareh. Seven hundred houses afford lodgings to -two thousand musketeers of Mazenderán, commanded by a Sultán (Beg) -subordinate to the Khán (Páshá, governor) of Eriván. The drawbridge -which leads over the river, to the Castle, is raised every night, and -it thus becomes entirely isolated; the water is raised by ropes of one -hundred fathoms length. The Khán descended with one thousand of his -serving men (Dízchoken Túlúnkí), and gave a grand entertainment to Bákí -Páshá, who, after dinner, requested that the Beg of Shúshík might be -given up to him: this was done accordingly, and he was carried to Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, who came on the seventh day to Khinis, and delivered him -to Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, who spared his life, but put -him into prison. Forty thousand sheep, forty horses, seventeen strings -of mules, twenty Georgian slaves, and fifty purses were taken from him, -he was afterwards released, but his castle was given to Mohammed the -Beg of Melázjerd, who furnished twenty purses, twenty strings of mules, -a great number of furs and skins of lynxes and leopards; the Moslím -victors returned in safety with their booty to Erzerúm. On the same day -after seven hours, we reached the village of Alajalar; it is situated -on the border of Aras, under the command of the castle of Bayazíd, and -consists of three hundred Armenian houses. Here our gracious Lord gave -a grand entertainment to the Persian Envoys of the Kháns of Eriván, -Nakhshiván and Tabríz, and gave each of them letters of amity, with a -couple of Arabian horses, beads of coral, bow and arrows, and Genoese -and Venetian cloth. He told them in his speech, that in order to -satisfy the Khán of Eriván he had reduced the Beg of Shúshík, but that -he hoped now that the Persians on their side would fulfil with equal -faithfulness the conditions of the peace, and therefore evacuate the -castle of Shúshík, and give it back to the Ottomans, if not, that he as -Commander-in-Chief would ravage the districts of Eriván and Nakhshiván. -The three envoys kissed the ground and were invested with Persian sable -pelisses. The Kelárjí Velí Agha was sent with the Envoy to Eriván; -Alaja Atlí Hassan with the second to Nakhshiván, and I poor Evliyá -in quality of Clerk of the Custom-house was named to go with letters -and presents in the third Envoy’s company to Tabríz, to arrange the -commercial affairs. I took two horses richly caparisoned to the Khán, -handkerchiefs, beads of pearl, and a magnificent quiver. I received -myself, on setting out on my journey, a purse of money, and a robe of -honour, and was accompanied by ten servants, and ten men of all arms, -altogether forty-five men. I took leave of the Páshá, and set out -trusting in the Lord for Nakhshiván and Eriván. - - -_Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia._ - -On the first day, we travelled for the space of eight hours along the -Aras, towards the east, and arrived at the village Yailajak, partly -Armenian and partly Moslím, subordinate to the Castle of Anek. Further -eastward we came to Barúd Kháneh belonging to the Castle Shúshík, -consisting of three hundred houses; saltpetre is produced here. -Sixteen hours further is the station of Kendúsh Kia, on the banks -of a torrent called Okhdere; we pitched our tents here in a flowery -meadow amidst beds of tulips. Twelve hours further on is the station -of Chághla-ghúrna, the inhabitants are Kurds. We saw the castle of -Shúshík, on our left on high rocks, and were saluted by it with seven -guns. The new Beg also sent us a quantity of provisions. Here we parted -company with Kássim Khán, the Envoy of Eriván, who went to the left, -while I poor Evliyá took the road on the right to Nakhshiván. After -having travelled thirteen hours through a mountainous tract, we came -to Karish, the first town in Persia. It was built by Shárokh, the -son of Timúr, and then came into the power of Uzún Hassan the Prince -of Azerbeiján. Its castle is situated on a high peak, is square and -built of stone, an elegant yet strong fortress, garrisoned by one -thousand Dizchoken Túlúnkí. They saluted us contrary to our wishes, -by firing eighteen guns, the report of which was re-echoed among the -neighbouring hills. We encamped at the foot of the castle, and visited -the town at our leisure. It was formerly a large town, but is now in -ruins, in consequence of the pillage it suffered at the time of the -expedition to Eriván by Sultán Murad IV. when the troops of Erzerúm, -Achika and Karrs revolted, and plundered this town of Karish. There are -seven mosques with minarehs, three baths, and gardens and vineyards -in abundance. The town is situated on the banks of the river Karish, -which issues from Mount Súkún, and flows to the Aras. The Agha of -the Castle invited me with the envoy to a feast, and our horses with -difficulty ascended to the castle in half an hour. The Agha of the -garrison dressed in an odd way, and giving us welcome, invited us to -his house, from which a beautiful view may be enjoyed. He treated us -to eleven sorts of pilaw and a great number of other good dishes; he -presented me, the envoy, and Alaja Atlí Hassan, with leopard skins, and -sent after us when we had returned to our tents, a present of fifty -sheep, one thousand loaves of white bread, and from seven to eight -mule-loads of delicious fruits, with several sorts of sherbet. We kept -the great feast (Bairám) here, remained a couple of days, and were then -entertained with a sumptuous dinner in a garden. Returning from the -garden we took a view of the outside of the mosque of Evhad Allah, it -is an incomparable mosque with a well-proportioned minareh; near it is -the bath of Táj-ud-dín Munshí, and seven Kháns. The beautiful women of -the place have such fine and brilliant eyes, that one glance from them -delights the heart more than a thousand from others. The next morning -three hundred Persian horsemen joined us, and accompanied us on our -way, which led through a mountainous tract, thirteen hours towards the -east, to the station of the village of Kend Massír; Kend is the Persian -word signifying the same as the Turkish Kassaba (small town). It is -situated on the border of Mount Massír, and consists of one thousand -houses with earthen roofs, surrounded with gardens, seven mosques, -three baths, and three hundred shops. It is the seat of a Kelenter -(provost) subordinate to Eriván. We advanced fourteen hours to Kend -Zúh Khán, on the frontier of Nakhshiván belonging to its khass, it is -a flourishing small town. Here we took two Persian boys, who delighted -us with their songs. We now proceeded for seven hours through a wide -valley, where we saw immense trees, to Uch Kilisse. On the top of a -mountain are three great convents, in each of which lodge a couple of -hundred priests and monks. Fine youths serve the strangers who divert -themselves here. One of these three convents was built by Núrshirván, -the second by the Greek Emperor, the third by an Armenian lady, which -is now inhabited by more than five hundred nuns, who eat nothing but -dry roots; but they serve milk, dates and sweetmeats to stranger’s, -and take care of their goods and horses. These three Armenian convents -are celebrated amongst all Christians, and are therefore well endowed. -In each of them are from five to ten guest-masters, and from forty to -fifty cooks. The Abbot of these convents gave to me and the envoys, a -grand entertainment, and presents after dinner. - - -_Curiosities of Uch Kilisse._ - -At the grand convent built by Núrshirván, every year forty or fifty -thousand Infidels assemble from all countries of Christianity, to -witness the solemnity of an old carpet being spread on the top of the -mountain. They collect all useful and medical herbs growing on these -mountains, and throw them into a boiling kettle which stands upon this -carpet; these herbs remain boiling more than an hour in the kettle -on the carpet, which receives no harm, to the great astonishment of -many thousand spectators. The herbs are then distributed amongst the -people, some of whom carry them to their own countries, others eat -them on the spot. I talked with the monks about this, who assured me -that the carpet was the same on which Jesus fell when issuing from -Mary’s womb; when shut up in a cave with his twelve disciples for fear -of the Israelites, they cooked their herbs on this carpet, which to -witness the miraculous power of Jesus, restored a dead man to life. -It is the same carpet on which Jesus gave a dinner to the Israelites. -The carpet then passed into the hands of Núrshirván, who when building -the Convent gave it to it as an endowment. When Sultán Súleimán went -to the siege of Eriván he performed a double prayer on this carpet. It -is neither cotton nor silk, but of variegated colours and very heavy. -I, poor Evliyá, am of opinion that it is of asbestos, a stone which -is found in the island of Cyprus, and worked into linen and paper, -handkerchiefs, shirts, &c., which are brought as presents to the great -men of Constantinople. Sultán Murád said to his sister Kia Sultán (Kia -signifies rock) the Lady of my gracious Lord, Melek Ahmed Páshá. “Lady -Rockby! as your name is rocky, I’ll give you a shirt of stone,” and -really gave her a shirt, which, when dirty, was cleansed by throwing -it into the fire. Great men have abundance of asbestos linen; Captain -Hassám-zadeh gave me such a handkerchief, which having become dirty, in -the presence of Melek Páshá, I threw into the fire, when it became as -pure as a white rose. God knows whether this carpet is not also made -of this Cyprian stone. We left Uch Kilisse and passed towards the east -through cultivated fields and populous villages, so that we did not see -a cubit of ground which was not productive or cultivated, and arrived -after eight hours march at a well cultivated village on the border -of Mount Sokún, like a small town. We counted no less than eleven -minarehs, but as I was indisposed I did not examine it well. - - -_Pilgrimage to Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb._ - -It is a great Convent of Begtáshís; more than three hundred came with -drums beating and banners flying to give us welcome: a crowd of poor -fellows all in raptures of divine love, by the prayers of whom I was -restored to health. Next day we crossed a plain for thirteen hours, -and halted three times on it. At the southern end of this field we -pitched our tents on the bank of the great river Zengí, where the -people of all the Kents of the neighbourhood, flocking together, -brought us abundance of provisions as presents, so that our servants -feasted as if they were as many Ma’adí Karbs, and our horses feasted on -trefoil and other luxuriant herbs, so that their bellies swelled like -wine-skins. The river Zengí issues on the south from the mountains of -Khárán, flows to the North, supplying water to many thousand Kents, -and then joins the Aras, which falling into the Kúr (Cyrus) runs into -the Caspian sea. We continued our journey hunting hares, and came at -the end of ten hours to the Kent Sídreghí, a Wakf of Imám Riza in the -territory of Nakhshiván. It is a flourishing Kent of about one thousand -houses surrounded with gardens. The inhabitants are all Shi’ís. The -hot-spring of Sídreghí is outside of the town close to the vineyards; -this hot-spring is covered with a large cupola, and in the large basin -the Persian youths swim like silver fishes; they amuse themselves by -disporting in the water, and singing with melodious voices. Fourteen -hours further to the east, we came to Zavieí Ahmed Beg, consisting of -five hundred houses, in the territory of Nakhshiván. Here are three -mosques, one of which was built by Zál Páshá-zadeh Ahmed, when governor -of Nakhshiván, in the style of the mosques at Constantinople. This is -the reason why the Persians called this Kent (borough) the cell (zavie) -of Ahmed Páshá; the whole borough is appropriated to the endowment of -this mosque. We passed during sixteen hours through many cultivated -Kents (boroughs) until we reached the large town Kara-bághlar, first -built by Menúchehr, it is the seat of a Sultán (Beg) in the territory -of Nakhshiván, it was wrested from the Ottomans by the Persians in the -time of Mohammed III. and laid waste by the army of Sultán Murád IV., -so that now ruins are only to be seen. Timúr passed a winter in perfect -quietness at Karabághlar; Suleimán Khán and other commanders-in-chief -were stationed here at different times for five or six months in the -greatest affluence. This place is now recovering from the havoc made -by Sultán Murad IV., but in comparison with its former state, it is -not as an atom in the sun, nor a drop in the ocean. Our servants -counted forty minarehs, and according to the report of our Mihmándár -it consisted of ten thousand houses with gardens and vineyards, and -seventy mosques (forty of which have minarehs), a great number of -Kháns, baths and markets. The mildness of the air contributes to the -beauty of the inhabitants; the variety of fruits which abound here, is -no where else to be met with. Taking a walk with the Envoy in a garden, -the gardener brought us twenty-six different kinds of pears, the best -are the Meleje, Abbássí, Ordúbaí, which when eaten, inundates the -mouth and hands with rich juice, like jelly or sirup; there are also -ruby-coloured pomegranates. In the cleanly cookshops you find pilaw of -Eriván, with excellent herísse (fricassee). The cooks are extremely -clean because they are all Moslíms, and in the whole of Persia eatables -are never sold by Armenians or Greeks; indeed there are no Greeks at -all in Persia, except a few travelling merchants, but there are a great -many Shi’ítes and Jews being the sect of the Teberraites and Karaites. -There are also Mulhads (impious); Zindíks, (atheists); Ja’aferites, -Jeberites, Kadrites, Húrúfites, Zimínites, and other such heretics. -After having taken a good view of the gardens at Karabágh we departed, -and in seven hours reached the fortress of Nakhshiván, which by some is -spelt Nakhjíván, (the cosmetic water of all the towns of Irán;) it is -the seat of a Khán (answering to the Turkish Páshá) on the frontier of -Azerbeiján and Avján. Its officers are an Itimád-ud-devlet (minister); -Kelenter, (provost, in Turkish Súbashí); a Múnshí, (secretary, -otherwise Kiatib); a Dárogha, an Agha of the Dízchoken (the troops) a -judge and a muftí. It was originally built by Sháh Efrasiáb, and the -cupolas are shewn where his ancestors are said to be buried; in their -times it was extremely populous and cultivated: it was then pillaged -by the Moghols, who levelled the castle with the dust; Sháh Ismaíl -rebuilt it, and in the reign of Mohammed III. it was taken possession -of by Zúltakár Khán, and again conquered in the time of Sultán Murad -IV. by Tabán Yassí Mohammed Páshá. Such is the state of the world where -nothing remains unchanged, but every thing perishes except His (God’s) -face. After Sultán Murad’s conquest it consisted of twelve thousand -houses with terraces, seventy mosques, forty mesjíds, twenty kháns, -seven baths, and one thousand shops. The air is mild, but as it has -few gardens, it has also but few fruits, one of its best products, is -cotton of seven colours, black, yellow, ruby-coloured and of the purest -white. The corn and wheat of Nakshiván is praised every where. Above -all its painted linen and its Chít (chintz) deserve to be recommended. -Its barley is so rich, that if a horse eats four grains of it, it is -satiated; its gardens are repositories of melons and water-melons. The -youth are all fair and white on account of its excellent air, they wear -the Persian turban, Táj, and robes of painted cotton and Chít (chintz) -breeches of different colours, and green, red and orange-coloured -papúshes. The women wear pointed caps on which they wrap white muslin, -and boots of various colours. The fashionable young men wear pelisses -of Isfahán, and walk with great pomp and dignity, but they are wholly -attached to women. The people pretend to be of the orthodox sect of -Sháfií although they are Persians, but this is a foul lie, they are -Ja’aferites, who, however, keep the regular prayer hours five times a -day, but never in company. They have some very fine mosques, every one -of which may be compared to Eden, they are lined with painted pottery, -and at some, the cupolas are covered in the same manner, there are -thirty-three minarehs in the style of those of Constantinople; that of -Ahmed Páshá exactly resembles that of Rostán Páshá at Constantinople. -The bath of Jenání is very pleasant, the walls are faced with -porcelain, and the floor is paved; the waiters are black-eyed youths -from Khoten, whose crystal white bodies are set off by the dark blue of -their aprons. Near the house where we lodged, as guests, is the bath -of Zál Páshá, which is also a soul-delighting bath, owing to its fine -water and excellent attendance; the walls are faced with porcelain, -and the floor paved with jasper, marble, and granite of various hues. -In the large basin ten feet square, which is underneath the cupola, -the young people swim like angels of the sea: the bath-keeper every -day pours into the basin, a basket of rose-leaves, which attaching -themselves to the bodies of the bathers forms a kind of veil which -is very becoming; thus they sport and play like peacocks and doves, -their nakedness being covered by rose-leaves; in short this bath is so -delightful that such poets as Hassán and Selmán could not sufficiently -praise it, how then could it be possible for me, poor Evliyá, to -succeed. - -Rich merchants are established in the market, who trade by land and -sea, each of whom is as rich as Karún; the inhabitants are all given to -pleasure, and pass part of every day in each other’s gardens. The Khán -of Nakhshiván, Rísa-ud-din, after having met us, carried us directly to -one of his gardens, where he read our letters to the principal men of -Nakhshiván, and gave us an entertainment, attended by so many singers -and musicians, that it was equal to the feast of Hossein Bikara. The -Khán, a person of great repute, had been the treasurer of Sultán Sifí, -who had delivered the castle of Baghdád to Sultán Murad; he was a man -of great judgment, of Georgian extraction, and his name was Devlet -Murád Khán. After dinner he gave to Alaja Atlí Hassan, who came as -envoy from the Páshá, and to me, brilliant robes of honour, ten tománs -of Abbássí, and a horse, investing his own envoy also with a caftán. -He has from forty to fifty delightful companions excelling in various -arts. The inhabitants of this town generally speak the dialect Dihkáni, -or of peasants, but they have poets who speak the Pehleví and Moghol -languages with elegance. The languages that are spoken here, are the -Dihkání or rough Persian; the Derí, or court language; the Farsí, or -pure but less elegant Persian; the Ghází and the Pehleví, two ancient -dialects. - -In the commentary of Dilemí, it is reported that the Prophet asked -Michael “whether God ever spoke any thing in Persian;” and Michael -replied, “yes, that there were some passages in the books which -Abraham received from Heaven:” and the Prophet answered, “whoever -ridicules the Ghází dialect is an Infidel”. - -The Turkomans, Gokdúlák and Moghols, who are settled in the different -districts, again speak other dialects. All these districts are defended -by strong castles, some of which I passed on hunting parties, without -having leisure to examine them properly. The names of these castles -are:—Alánjak Ván, built by Molla Kotb-ud-dín; Serán, Sersú, and -Semaraván, built by Merván Ibn-al-himár. The names of Persian towns -almost all terminate as follows:—in Tartary the castles are named, -Cherkers Kermán, Kiresh Kermán, Sháhin Kermán, Irbát Kermán, In Kermán, -Ghází Kermán, Uzí Kermán, and Ak Kermán. The names of Polish fortresses -are Kamanija (Kaminiuk), and Alúnjissa. The names of fortresses in -Transylvania terminate in ár, as Sakmár, Sakswár, Oivár, &c. The -German fortresses are Iran, Comoin, Tata, Papa, Santmarton, Posonium, -Bedj (Vienna), the latter is the residence of the German Emperor. -Amongst the names of Ottoman towns, those of the Holy land are the -most sounding. The whole Ottoman Empire consists of seventy seats of -Begler-Begs, three hundred and sixty sanjak Begs, and thirteen hundred -and eighty strong castles. May they all remain in the power of the -Ottoman family until the end of the World. Amen! The names of Persian -castles will be given in the course of our travels. - - - - -JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ. - - -From Nakhshiván we proceeded for eight hours towards the Kiblah, and -arrived at the place Kessik Kunbed, containing one thousand houses with -gardens, three mosques, a Khán and Hamám. - - -_Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara._ - -The inhabitants of the kent told us, that it was the tomb of the son of -Hossein Bikara, but on the marble coffin was written Murád Ibn Beháder -Shefád Ibn Hossein Bákara. It is a high cupola, and the tomb-keeper -is one of the descendants of Hossein Bikara. We continued our journey -from hence seven hours along the Arash, which rises in the mountains -of the Curds Bínpánshí, in the province of Ván, flows to the North and -joins the river Zenghí. It may be crossed on horseback. We now advanced -for some time amongst gardens, and arrived at Karabágh, a town of -Azerbeiján, which was built by one of the princes of this country, and -ruined by Koja Ferhád Páshá one of the Vezírs of Sultán Mohammed the -conqueror of Erla. The traces of havock are still to be seen. - -When Sultán Murad IV., on his expedition to the conquest of Eriván, -came to this country, he again pillaged the town, which is just now -rising from its ruins. It is the seat of a Sultán, who commands one -thousand men. Its officers are a Kelenter, Darogha, Múnshí, Bínbáshí, -and Dizchoken-agassí. The town is situated on a beautiful wide plain, -and consists of three thousand houses, seven mosques, seven baths, -three kháns, and six hundred shops. The youth of both sexes are -pretty; the products good and plentiful; the air salubrious and the -water excellent; it is adorned and surrounded with gardens. Among the -fruits deserve to be mentioned twelve different sorts of ruby-coloured -grapes, and eighteen sorts of cherries; some of its quinces are of the -size of a man’s head. Its waters are carried in some places through -subterraneous conduits, and are most refreshing in summer time. The -cupolas of the mosques are built in the old style of architecture, that -is to say, pointed, and are covered with china of different colours; -eleven minarehs are conspicuous, but there are altogether seventy -mihrábs. The inhabitants have been exempted from the payment of all -gifts and duties, on condition that they would rebuild the town; they -only contribute annually to the Sháh of Irán an hundred camel-loads -of dried fruits. In short, there are three towns in Azerbeiján called -Karabágh, each of which is a garden resembling Paradise. We went from -hence turning towards the Kiblah, and arrived at the place where -the river Irs joins that of Shán. We crossed it amidst a thousand -difficulties; it collects its waters from the mountains of Punyánshí -(Bínpánshí?) Bíredos, and Bághassí. Three stations below the plain of -Nakhshiván the Irs runs into the Zenghí, the Zenghí into the Aras, -the Aras into the Kúr, the Kúr into the Terek, (?) and the Terek into -the Caspian Sea. After having crossed the river we came in six hours -to Kent Kerken, which is situated in the province of Tabríz on the -frontier of Merend, consisting of three hundred houses, a mosque, a -khán, and a bath; but the inhabitants are extremely uncivil Persians; -they are all cotton weavers, of which their plain produces a large -quantity; bogassins of various colours are manufactured here. - -After a march of nine hours towards the Kiblah, we arrived at the kent -of Zeneves, one thousand well-built houses, ten mosques, a khán, and -bath. Ten hours further on, towards the Kiblah, is the town of Tessúí; -it is situated on the frontier of Merend and the bank of the Irs, and -has three thousand houses with terraces, seven mosques, three baths, -and six kháns. Its Sultán commands one thousand armed men; there is -a Kelenter and Darogha, a Múnshí and Kádhí. It was also destroyed by -Murad IV., and is now recovering from its ruins; it is twelve farsangs -distant from the town of Merend; the fruits of Tessúí are celebrated. -The inhabitants are Shiítes, who live by gardening. We now passed to -the south, drinking fresh water from wells, because the greatest part -of the water is here subterraneous, and at the end of twelve farsangs -we reached the town of Merend, the residence of the Khán of Elvend, and -the seat of a Sultán commanding one thousand men. Its authorities are a -Kelenter, Darogha, Munshí, and Dizchoken Aghá. The interval of fourteen -farsangs between here and Tabríz is all well cultivated ground. -Merend lies to the east of Tabríz. It was formerly a hunting place -of Sháhrokh, the son of Timúr, and was in a flourishing state, but -Sultán Murad IV. laid it waste; there are now three thousand houses, -seven mosques, three kháns, five baths and six hundred shops, but no -Bezestán, no colleges nor abecedarian schools; but praise must be given -to its seventy fine walks and gardens, each of which outrivals those of -Eden. Its youth of both sexes are pretty and eloquent. The inhabitants -are for the most part military men, all the sect of the Shiítes; on the -Kiblah side of the town is the tomb of Hossein Teftazání, one of the -ancestors of the great Teftazání, also of Alí Khándí, Sheikh Súsemári, -and Alí-ud-dín. We received presents from the Sultán of this town, -and went on seven hours, on the Kiblah side, through roads planted on -both sides with willows and planes, so that we always travelled in the -shade, sheltered against the rays of the sun. We halted at the wells, -and arrived at Kent Kuherín, belonging to the Secretary of the Khán -of Tabríz, of one thousand houses, six mosques, three baths, and two -great palaces. It is an extremely flourishing kent. May God destroy -it! because they are all Shiítes, and because I heard here for the -first time, curses uttered against Omar. Allah confound them! I was -obliged to listen quietly to those obloquies, though I had a great mind -to kill the rascal, which I might have done without incurring much -responsibility, because envoys travelling from Rúm to Persia are free -in all their actions, even if they should kill a Persian. - -We now marched six hours further to Kent Sehlán, which is the khass of -the Khán of Tabríz, situated in a plain, consisting of one thousand -houses, seven mosques, a khán, a bath and some small markets (Súk). -Its streets are all planted with willows and planes. The inhabitants -of Tabríz have their koshks and pleasure-houses in this kent; the -inhabitants of the place pretend to be Sháfiítes, but are all cursed -Ráfedites; the young people and the air of the place is praiseworthy. -As we continued our journey, we saw on our right, the high cupola of -Ghazán Mohammed Sháh towering into the skies, conspicuous at six hours -distance. We said a Fátihah to his memory, halted on a fine meadow, and -sent a messenger to Tabríz. After three hours we mounted our horses for -the solemn entry, I and the Envoy of Tabríz side by side; before the -envoy marched his soldiers well dressed, and before me forty persons -composing my train; the Kiaya of the Khán of Tabríz came to meet us -in solemn pomp (Istikbál), and accompanied by him we made our entrance -into the town of Tabríz, where many thousand persons in the market were -collected to stare at us; our march from the town-gate to the palace -of the Khán at the other extremity of the town lasted for two hours. -The Khán received us in his Diván, where a great Council was assembled, -the Persian music consisting of kettle-drums and trumpets were three -times sounded, and the troops paraded. After the music was over, I -got up, and drew forth from my breast the letter of Defterdár-zadeh -Mohammed Páshá, the governor of Erzerúm, giving it into the hand of -the Khán, who got up and kissed it, and put it on his head. The Ishek -Aghá (master of the ceremonies) then shewed me my place, where I stood -in the Mohammedan fashion. The Khán gave the letter to his secretary -(Múnshí), who kissed it respectfully, and read it with a loud voice. -At the mention of God’s name, and the Prophet’s name, all stood up -praising the Prophet, but at the mention of his four friends, some -looked askance (not liking to hear Omar mentioned amongst them.) - -The reading being finished the Khán said: “With the aid of God I will -send to my honourable brother the Vezír of the Emperor, before a month -elapses, a caravan of a hundred horses, and one of a hundred camels.” -Then adding different kind greetings and words, he made us sit down -close to him, and ordered the repast to be brought in. After dinner, I -delivered the pearl beads, the quiver and the Venetian stuffs, which, -said I, “the Páshá has furnished me with, that I may not appear before -your Excellency with empty hands; he has added to these two Arabian -horses of high breeding, which shall now make their appearance, if -your Excellency would be pleased to see them.” He rose up, and we -came to the end of the room; the horses richly caparisoned were on -the signal given by me led into his presence: they came dancing and -capering to the great astonishment of all the gentlemen of the Diván; -saying, “Bismillah!” I gave the bridle of the horse into the hands of -the Khán, adding “Mobarek-bád” (Be it prosperous!) The Khán took some -turns on the horse, riding without stirrups in the fashion of Persian -horsemanship. I then presented him with the second horse (Yelkendiz), -with which he was no less satisfied, and sent it to his stable. At -a signal by the Khán all our servants were served with sherbet, -rosewater and incense was repeated; and we were then given in to the -care of the Mihmándár, Kúrújí-báshí, Darogha, and Kelenter. The latter -conducted us to his garden, where we remained. The Khán sent me forty -tománs bath-money, a caparisoned horse (Karajabuk), with an elegant -saddlecloth, and seven camel-loads of provisions. The public cryers -now published, throughout the town, an order of the Khán to make known -that an Ottoman embassy of Sunnís having arrived, every body should be -cautious of insulting them, lest they might be killed by the Sunnís. -They curse neither Abúbekr nor Osmán, but Omar gives them a terrible -head-ache, and they cannot refrain from injuring him by slanderous -words. The same day the Khán sent us ten fine youths all dressed in -embroidered cloth. They were led by our Mihmándár to kiss our hands, -according to the ancient etiquette by which the Kháns of Persia used to -send ten fine youths as servants to the Ottoman Envoys. We now began to -take a view of the town. - - -_Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz._ - -In the Moghol language it is called Túris; in the Derí dialect, -Táríz; in the Dihkání, Tábríz; and in the Farsí, Tabríz: in all these -dialects, _tab_ signifies fever, and _ríz_ pouring [dispersing], -because the air is so salubrious, and the water of Aján so good, that -people who come from regions where fever prevails, completely recover -here; the fortress of Cairo is also a place where no fever is to -be found. Tabríz was founded by Zobeide, Harún Rashíd’s wife, who, -when pregnant with Mamún, built a pleasure-house here on account of -the excellent air. Afterwards a large town was built at an immense -expense, and of such extent that it took three days to go round it. -In the time of Calíf Motevekel, it was ruined by an earthquake which -destroyed forty thousand men. Motevekel came himself from Baghdád to -rebuild the town at the expense of immense treasure. It rests on one -side upon mount Aján, on another side upon mount Sehlán, on a third -side upon mount Senján, and on the fourth upon the Maiden’s mount -(Kiztágh). The actual circumference of Tabríz, is six thousand paces, -there are three hundred towers, three thousand battlements, and six -gates, viz., that of Aján, of Berserván, of Serzúd, and of Shámnemázán, -each of which is guarded by five hundred watchmen. The third builder -of Tabríz was Húlagú, who resided here seven years, and embellished it -wonderfully: Mohammed Khodabende Ibzárgún Sháh transferred the whole -palace, built by Húlagú, on camels to his new built town. The timber -used in the buildings was all cypress and aloe wood, and they have -been faced with china ever since. The fourth builder was Mohammed Sháh -Ghazán, who extended the boundaries to the mountains of Senján, Aján, -and Sehlán, and surrounded it with a wall, which required four days to -make a tour of it. The town formerly built by Motevekel became then -the inner castle or citadel of the new town. In the year 959, it was -taken by Sultán Suleimán, who did not ravage it, but made a present -of it to Sháh Elkáss Mirza. In the year 994 (1585), it was taken by -the Persians. In the reign of Murad III., Uzdemir-oghlí Murad Páshá -undertook the expedition into Persia with an immense army, the van of -which was led by Jighála-oghlí Sinám. Osmán Páshá, one of his generals, -took the town of Tabríz out of the hands of the Sháh. - -To defend this town a strong citadel was then built of twelve thousand -seven hundred cubits, which seems as though it had been built by -Ferhád, and on the gate of which the name of Uzdemir is inscribed. -Uzdemir Páshá, the fifth builder, finished the castle in thirty-six -days, and filled it with all necessary stores, and a garrison of forty -thousand men. But he was not so happy as to perform the Friday’s -prayer, having died before it; the whole army proclaimed Jighála-zadeh -Sinám their commander, who was not however confirmed in his place by -the Porte, which when made acquainted with the news, named Khándin -Ja’affer Páshá, formerly Governor of Tripolis; under whose government -the flourishing state of Tabríz excelled even that at the time -of Sultán Gházán. According to the description made in his time, -Tabríz reckoned eighty thousand houses, and three hundred thousand -inhabitants. During the troubles which took place soon afterwards by -the rebellion of the troops, it happened, that the Persians became -masters of Genje, Shirván, Shamákhí, Eriván, Nakhshiván and Tabríz, -until the time of vengeance arrived in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. He -conquered the fortress of Eriván in seven days, ransacked the towns of -Nakhshiván, Merend and Karabágh, remained a week at Tabríz, levelled -the palace of Sháh Abbás, and set fire to all the wooden houses, so -that only stone buildings, such as mosques and baths, remained; after -which havock he returned to Constantinople. Sháh Abbás returned, -conciliated the inhabitants, and began to restore it to its former -splendour. It is now the capital of Azerbeiján, and the seat of the -Khán its Governor, who commands ten thousand men. Its officers are the -Muftí, Nakíb or head of the Seids (Emírs), the Molla (Judge), Kelenter -(Lieutenant of police), Múnshí, (Secretary), Darogha (Provost), -Kúrújí-báshí (chief of the guards of the woods and heaths), Dízchoken -Aghá, (commander of the garrison), Chiyek-yeyen Aghá (another officer -of the troops), Yassúl Aghá (Inspector of the sentinels), and Ishek -Aghá (Master of the Ceremonies) Mihmándár. These public officers keep -good order in the town of Tabríz, so that justice prevails as it did in -the time of Núrshírván, and no person can take a grain of mustard-seed -from another. - - -_Description of the Mosques of Tabríz._ - -There are altogether three hundred and twenty mihrábs, nineteen of -which are Imperial mosques. The first is the old mosque of Zobeide, -the cupola and walls of which are all inlaid with china (fayence;) -the mortar of the Mihráb having been mixed with musk, exhales the -sweetest perfume; its minareh is also entirely inlaid with china. The -mosque of Motevekel is a mosque in the old style, with one minareh, -which like the former is faced with china. In the course of time the -builder’s name has been lost, and it is now called Meshkieh. The -mosque of Sultán Mohammed Shám Ghazán, which was formerly a splendid -mosque, is now falling into decay in an obscure place; the mosque of -Jihán Sháh Emín is a high building with a dome vying with that of Ták -Kesra, like the mosque of Táher Bibars, at Cairo; its walls are white -polished like Chinese paper, and before the Mihráb is a fine garden, -the scent of which perfumes the air. The name of this fine mosque is -Dihshetí-Behesht (terror of Paradise). The mosque of Sultán Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján, the same who built the fortress of Hassan Kala’a -to the east of Erzerúm, and who was defeated by Sultán Mohammed II. in -the field of Terján. He is buried at this mosque, the cupolas of which -are inlaid with china inside and out; it is quite equal to the mosque -of Sultán Hassan at Cairo. The minber, mihráb and mahfil are adorned -with such elegant sculptures and carving, that the greatest masters -of the present day would not be able to finish it in that style; the -windows shine with unparalleled splendour, but the greatest masterpiece -is conspicuous in the arabesques and ornaments of the great gate. Above -all the gates and windows are inscriptions in the character of Yakút -Mostea’assemí. On the side of the altar are two columns of a yellow -stone, each of which is worth the revenue of Irán and Turán: these two -columns have no equal, either in Egypt, Syria, Arabia, or Persia. The -other Imperial mosques are also faced with china, paved with marble and -adorned with paintings and suspended ornaments, so that each is quite a -Chinese gallery. These five mosques are not however so much frequented -as those in Turkey, because prayers are not performed in community, -but singly by persons, who enter and leave abruptly. Opposite to the -mosque of Uzún Hassan is that of Sháh Ismail, and near it that of Sháh -Makssúd, the son of Sultán Hassan; the old mosque of Chármenán, the -mosque of Abbás the first, and the great mosque, so large that from the -great gate to the mihráb opposite, a man can hardly be distinguished. - - -_Colleges of Tabríz._ - -There are forty-seven large Colleges, where lectures are held on all -sciences; the first is that of the lady of Sháh Jihán: and twenty -rooms for reading the Korán (Dár-ul-kira) but they read it wrong -throughout all Persia. There are seven houses for reading tradition -(Dár-ul-hadíth), but the doctors of tradition are not much renowned, -because they confine themselves to the tradition of Alí and the twelve -Imáms, and have some thousand books on the traditions of Alí alone; -six hundred schools, where boys are taught to spell and read the -Korán, and are clothed once a year; one hundred and sixty convents of -dervishes; six fountains, which all issue from mount Semendán. The town -is besides furnished with seven canals of water, and there are one -thousand and forty Sebíls, or places for distributing water, which -are well covered. The town is divided into one thousand and sixty -quarters which are called Derveze. The water magazine (serdáb) which -was cleaned by Uzdemir Páshá furnishes the water of the canals. One -thousand and seventy palaces of great men, two hundred caravánseraïs, -seventy kháns for merchants and one hundred and ten for single workmen; -seven thousand market streets (Súk) many of which are vaulted like -those of Haleb; and a great Bezestán, which is the seat of the richest -merchants, with four iron gates. - - -_Praise of the Air and Climate._ - -By the mildness of the climate the inhabitants are all healthy and -stout, with red cheeks and black beards, merry faces, and lips like -rose-buds; the women are pretty, and conscious of the fairness of their -skins are extremely proud; those advanced in age are of sweet company, -so that the proverb, “the old is sweeter than the young,” may well be -applied to them. The inhabitants are all Shiís or Mulhad (impious), -a great number are Dumbúlí, Khaljání, Turcomans, and Gokdúlák. There -are two thousand Ulemás, amongst whom are excellent doctors, surgeons -and oculists. There are more than seven thousand pious Sheiks, who are -much esteemed in this town, the inhabitants never do any thing without -consulting them, but their sect is not exactly known. Eighty-two most -eloquent poets, authors of Diváns. Yárí and Shábí are the Saíb and Unfí -of their time. Of the Mujazib or Santons (Saint fools) we saw Sherímí, -whom no person ever saw eating, drinking, lying down, sleeping, or -performing any of the natural offices of life for seventy years. The -Persians are generally called Kizil-básh or red heads, because they -wrap red sashes round their heads, though many of them also wear the -Mohammedan white turban; but the cap is always pointed, and that of the -Ulemás, which is called Táj, or crown, is more than two yards long. The -great men wear sable. - - -_Account of the Persian Crown (Táj)._ - -The shape is founded on a dream of Ibrahím, the founder of the dynasty -of Sefí; he dreamt that he bore a child to an ass, that had seventy -fingers. This dream having been interpreted as foreshadowing the -Empire, he swore, that if it should be fulfilled, he would commemorate -the circumstance, by wearing an asinine phallus in his turban, and by -imitating the cries of the animal in music. This is the reason why the -Persian crown and head-dress have the present shape, and why their -music resembles the braying of an ass. - -The purity of the air drives away all fevers, and prolongs life to -the age of one hundred and seventy years. The water issues from mount -Semenden, and is distributed into more than nine hundred conduits and -pipes, which furnish the town with water. The water aids digestion, and -like the air is rather cold. There is also good water in wells, but -the water of the canals is better; some of the wells are from forty to -fifty cubits deep, in the summer their water is cold, and in the winter -it is warm. Astrologers say that Tabríz was built by Zobeide, under the -influence of the sign of the scorpion when ruled by Mars, and that for -this reason, it has been so many times disturbed and ruined by rebels -and by conquerors, such as Timúr, Gengíz, Húlagú, and Murad IV. - -There are twenty-one pleasant baths each with one or two basins, a half -soffa, and fountains (jets d’eaux). The attendants are fine youths, the -water and air are excellent. Besides the public baths there are seven -hundred private ones, where the silver-bodied youth swim like angels of -the sea. On the china or fayence of these baths, is written the famous -poem of Fozúlí, called the poem of the bath (Kassideí Hamám). There are -seven sorts of corn growing at Tabríz, besides an abundance of barley. -There are also seven sorts of cotton. - - -_Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c._ - -Painters, architects, goldsmiths, and tailors are nowhere to be found -so perfect as here. Precious stuffs manufactured here go all over the -world; the velvet is much renowned. The provisions consist of the white -bread called Kerde, and Súmún, cracknels, pastry, roasts, chicken pies, -forty different kinds of pilaw with spices, the Herisse and sweetmeat, -Palúde. Among the abundance of delicious fruits are particularly the -pears and exquisite apricots, they are not found in such perfection -even at Constantinople. The beverages consist of seven sorts of Muscat -wine, the common wine of the Royal grape, the pomegranate, the cherry -wine, and oxymel; and for the common people búza of millet and rice. - -There are some dining establishments for the poor, such as the Imáret -of Sháh Yakúb, of Sultán Motevekel, of Lady Zobeide, and of Sultán -Hassan, large buildings with kitchens worthy that of Keikavús, but in -the hands of the Persians they have all decayed. - -The principal walk is the mount Surkháb (Red-water) near Tabríz; at -noon the sea of Rúmie may be distinguished from the top of it; it is at -a farsang distance from Tabríz. - -The number of gardens amounts to forty-seven thousand, the finest is -that of Sháh Yakúb, where the Khán gave me a splendid entertainment. -Eleven times in the day, seventy dancers and singers exerted themselves -in the practice of their art, so that it resembled an evening party -of Hossein Bikara. This garden owes its origin to Koja Ferhád Páshá, -Governor of Tabríz under Sultán Murad III., who adorned it with -numerous koshks, bowers and pleasure-houses; and at the time of the -pillage of the town by Murad IV., this garden was preserved by the care -of Osmán Aghá. The Chronostic of the koshk where we dined, alluding to -the name of the builder, says that, Ferhád built this sweet (Shirín) -palace. The walk of Sháh Sefí cannot be praised enough. It is the -place of the Maïl; in the centre of it two immense columns lift their -tops up to Heaven; on one of them every Friday a silver plate is put, -which is aimed at by all the bowmen, who shoot at it, encouraged by -the presence of the Khán. On New Year’s day (Nevrúz) or the beginning -of spring, battles are fought in this place by horses trained in the -dark during forty or fifty days, by camels, buffaloes, sheep, asses, -dogs, and cocks. These fights are peculiar to Persia. Every year on -the tenth of the month Moharrem, being the feast of A’ashúra, all the -population of the town assemble under tents in this large place, and -during three days and nights cook many thousand dishes of A’ashúra (a -kind of hotch-potch), in remembrance of the martyrs of Kerbela; these -dishes are distributed with an abundance of sugar-sherbet, which is -carried round in crystal vases, and cups of cornelian and turquoise: -at the same time singing certain verses, such as “Their Lord gave them -of the purest beverage.” Some of the great men on this day carry cans -and tankards round their necks, and go about distributing water like -common porters. But the finest show is in the variegated tent of the -Khán, where all the great men of Tabríz are assembled, and where a Hymn -on the death of Hossein is recited, in the same manner as the Hymn on -the Prophet’s birthday is in the Turkish mosques. The hearers listen, -sighing and lamenting, but when the reciter arrives at the passage -where Hossein is killed by accursed Shabr, a curtain opens behind him, -and a severed head and trunk of a body, representing that of the Imám -when dead, is thrown on the ground, when there rises such an uproar of -cries and lamentations that everybody loses his wits. At this moment -some hundred men mingle in the crowd with razors, with which they cut -the arms and breasts of all loving believers, who desire to shed their -blood on this day in remembrance of the blood shed by the Imám; they -make such deep incisions and scars, that the ground appears as if it -was blooming with tulips. Some thousands brand the marks and names of -Hassan and Hossein on their heads, arms, and breasts. They then carry -Hossein’s body away from the ground with much pomp, and finish the -ceremony with great howlings. - -The town has numerous fine walks and pleasure grounds, each of which -may be compared to the gardens of Ispúze and Merám. The beautiful -koshks worthy to be the seats of Sherín and Ferhád, of Wámik and Azra, -are every where renowned; but I must refrain from their praise and -description, as I have yet so many other things to mention. God be -thanked! I remained here two months, which I spent in full pleasure -and delight, and I shall now give the description of the districts and -castles, which I visited in the Khán’s company. Round Tabríz are seven -districts, which furnish military men, whose office is to train birds -and dogs for hunting. - -The first is the district of Mehránrúd, five farsangs to the east of -Tabríz, the three places Koraúkendrút, Isfenj-kent, and Sa’ád-abád are -like large towns, with numerous mosques, kháns and baths. The second -district is that of Sera-vurúd on the west side of Tabríz; containing -eighty well cultivated villages. The third district is that of Dídeher, -four farsangs south-west of Tabríz, twenty-four kents with mosques, -kháns, baths and gardens. The fourth district is that of Ardenik, on -the west side of Tabríz at only a farsang’s distance; thirty well -cultivated villages. The fifth district is that of Rúdkát behind -mount Sorkháb, and north of Tabríz, at a farsang’s distance from it; -a hundred great kents with gardens, mosques, markets, &c. The sixth -district, that of Khánumrúd; twenty elegant villages. The seventh, that -of Bedostán behind Rúdkát; seventy villages. If I were to describe -minutely all the hunting and pleasure parties on which I accompanied -the Sháh for the space of twenty days, it would alone fill a book, -because Tabríz is like Isfahán, one of the finest towns in the world. -God grant its possession to the Ottomans, and keep it from ruin! - - -_Account of a curious Conversation._ - -One day being in company with the Sháh he presented me with the purest -wine. I said, “By God! with God! through God! and by Ali’s purest -spirit, since I was born I never drank wine or any other spirituous -liquor, and since our great ancestor Khoja Ahmed Yessúí, none of our -family have ate or drank any thing of an intoxicating quality. I beg, -therefore, to be excused by you.” The Khán said, “My beloved and -darling brother, what are you afraid of; if it is of your Emperor, he -is five months journey from you; if it is of your Khán (the Páshá), -it is forty days distance from Erzerúm to Tabríz. The Khán of the -Sháh of Irán and the dog of Alí, my Sháh, has expressly forbidden me -to drink a drop of wine; what do I care for that, I drink it secretly -and delight in it; follow my example.” I said, “Very well, my Khán, -if your Sháh has prohibited it to you, it is prohibited to me by the -express command of the Sháh of Sháhs, the Lord of Lords, who says -in the Korán, ‘wine, gaming and fortune-telling are Satan’s work:’ -it is of this Lord, that I am afraid.” “You are,” said the Khán, “a -rigorous Methodist (Mutea-assib).” “By God!” replied I, “I am no -Methodist but only a true follower of the orthodox sect of Na’amán Ben -Thábet, and a true lover of the Prophet’s family.” At this reply the -whole company became silent, the Khán rose up with all his youthful -attendants, and sitting down close to me, he said, “My dear Evliyá -Aghá, which of these my favourite servants would you like to have, I -will make you a present of him if you drink a cup of wine out of his -hand. Come drink a glass, if you love red Alí and the twelve Imáms; -let us be warm of head and tender of heart, let us enjoy a moment of -delight in this perishable world.” So saying, all the youths came to -salute me, and I returned their salutes; yet did I implore at the same -time Heaven’s assistance, and then said, in answer to his further -pressing requests; “You drink wine to get into good humour, but the -first thing is to be good-humoured in God; I beg you will let me have -a half-drum to accompany my own song, in order to show you how people -get good-humoured in God.” “Be it so,” said he, “for Alí’s sake bring a -half-drum to Evliyá, my brother;” I took it, and sang three tetrastichs -on Divine Love, in the tune Sigáh, which made all the hearers appear as -though they were drunk. The Khán, being extremely pleased, invested me -with his own sable pelisse, gave me a thousand praises, and a Georgian -slave as a present, ten tománs of Abbássí, and a racehorse (Karajubúk). -“Now,” said he, “I will not plague you any more with a request to drink -wine,” and I continued to enjoy his conversation undisturbed during a -whole month, feasting every night. I spent this time observing all that -was worth seeing at Tabríz, the good order and government of which is -worthy of all possible recommendation. The inhabitants are merry, but -orderly people, and I never saw a drunkard in the streets. It is in -their praise that the verse was composed, which says, “The people of -Tabríz, though given to pleasure, are as pure as the glass of a mirror; -and if you say they are not true to friends, you must know that the -mirror only reflects the object before it as it really appears.” - - -_General Praise of Tabríz._ - -The first and most agreeable properties of Tabríz is the abundance -of water, by which means the streets are washed and cleansed from -all dust, as though it was continually New Year’s day. The second -praiseworthy circumstance is, that the Sherífs or descendants of -Mohammed do not give their daughters indiscriminately to servants, -but only to their equals. They proposed the following nice point to -me, saying:—“You take Infidel girls as women, because you say that -the man plants the seed, and that is very well; but you also give -your own daughters to Moslíms, who were first Infidels and afterwards -converted; now if this new Moslím relapses into his former error, -what then becomes of the children, who though their mother be a true -descendant of the Prophet, may become apostates and fly into the land -of the Infidels?” I answered, with the tradition of the Prophet, which -says, “that even the children of Christians and Jews are born true -Moslims, but that they are afterwards seduced into error by their -parents.” There was no reply to that. The third good thing is that all -sales are transacted with Persian money coined in the country, and that -no foreign coin is received. Money is coined in seven towns, viz. at -Erdebíl, Hamadán, Baghdád, Isfahán, Tiflís, Nehávend, and Tabríz. The -inscription on one side is, “There is no God, but God, and Mohammed -is the Prophet, and Alí the friend of God;” on the reverse is the -name of the Sháh, with the epithet of Alí’s dog: their small coins or -pennies are called Kázikí, they bear only the place of the coinage on -one side, and the date of the year on the other: on their measures and -weights are also written the words, “There is no God but God,” and -who dares to cheat in the name of God is blinded by a heated stone -drawn over his eyes. Before their shops and markets, scales of yellow -brass are suspended, which are never taken away, but always remain, -and all eatables and drinkables are sold by weight according to the -fixed market prices; even corn and wheat are sold by weight. The fourth -good things are the cookshops, fitted-up with china and furnished with -plates of the same material; they are opened with prayer as usual in -the morning, and then filled with all kinds of pilaws, and stewed meat -(Herisse), which are also sold by weight. The waiters, clean and smart, -stand with pewter dishes under their arms, on which are inscriptions -like the following: “No nobility above the Islám;” “The nobility of the -place depends upon who occupies it;” “The nobility of the house depends -upon its inhabitants; and the nobility of the inhabitants upon their -generosity.” After dinner these waiters bring clean basins and cans for -washing, but vulgar people (Tolúnkí and Tokir) wipe their right hand -under their left shoulder, and their left hand under the right. - - -_Bad and reprehensible things in Irán._ - -It is a bad custom in Persia that only twelve classes of the troops -and as many of the Ulemás and the other ranks of society are allowed -to have regular kitchens in their houses; all the rest eat from the -market, therefore, although their dinner is cheap it is very bad. The -army has its cooks, who cook in that way at a fixed price, so that they -are not allowed to take a grain more or to furnish a grain less than -the established quantity. When the army takes the field, the kitchen is -established in tents made of felt. - -Another bad thing in Persia is that they do not kill or hang their -delinquents, but the Darogha and Mohtessíb (two officers of police), -bring them to the public place, where the executioners torment them -in a most cruel manner; during three days and nights, they inflict on -them three hundred and sixty different kinds of torture. They first -give them three hundred strokes of the whip and Korbáj, press their -knees, introduce reeds under their nails, cauterize the whole body with -fire, force them to swallow greasy rags with a rope attached, which if -dragged out again brings the stomach and bowels with it; nail their -hands and feet down, bore holes in the elbows and knees, and then pour -melted lead in the holes so that the lead runs out with the marrow: -they tie the four first fingers and toes tight together, suspend the -delinquent and perfume him with sulphur and asses’ urine, so that the -poor men’s cries pierce the skies; they cut pieces out of the back, and -attach burning candles to the shoulders; they squeeze the testicles, -tickle the nose with pointed thorns, put iron kettles on the head, and -blind the eyes; and inflict even more horrible tortures than those -already described. God forgive us our sins! They paralyse thieves by -cutting the sinews. They cut off the ears, noses, and hands and feet -of false witnesses, and fasten other delinquents to seven different -kinds of gibbets and pales, and leave them so exposed during three -days and nights. The Khán having one day glorified himself with these -cruel tortures, in my presence, I asked him, “What was the object of -such manifold cruelties;” he said, “That death being pronounced on -these culprits, the tortures were added, in order to terrify others by -the example.” I said, “That it was not lawful, because the text of the -Korán states no other punishment for thieves but cutting off the hand, -and retaliation in cases of murder; and that this was quite sufficient -to keep the people in terror and awe.” He was obliged to acknowledge -that I was right. These additional tortures have been contrived by -them, because their people are all riotous and heretical, that they may -be kept in order the easier. So they established it as law. - - -_Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz._ - -In the cemeteries are many places of pilgrimage of great and holy men. -In the cemetery of Súrkháb are the tombs of poets, such as Enwerí, -Khakání, Zahír-ud-dín Faryábí, Felekí of Shíráz, and Felekí of Shirván. - -Of Saints buried in the neighbouring villages, there are, in the -village of Gúchúchán the Saint Khoja Mohammed Gúchúchání; in the -village of Sabádabád, no less than seven hundred learned writers. -Essáma Ben Sherík, the Prophet’s companion is buried near Tabríz on -the martyrs’ mount; and Sárut-ul Jebel, the brother of Hamza, who was -carried wounded from the battle of Nehávend to Tabríz, died here. The -Sheikh Sejid-ján Memí, a writer deeply versed in ancient and modern -sciences and in mystics. On mount Súrkháb, two children of Alí are -buried; in the quarter of Serde the place is shown where Efasiáb’s head -is buried. Sheikh Nassr-allah, the son of Ak-Shems-ud-dín. It would be -too long to describe all the monuments which exist at Tabríz, and we -contented ourselves with these. - - -_Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám -Gházán._ - -We left Tabríz accompanied by one thousand horse, and after a march -of five hours through flowery gardens came to Kent Ajisú, half way to -Kúmla, two hundred houses with gardens belonging to the Khán’s khass, a -mosque and three convents. The waters of this plain are subterraneous, -flowing from village to village, and there are some thousand wells on -the great roads, this place is called A’jisú (bitter water) because -its water is a little brackish. We continued our road next day to the -burying-place of Mohammed Shám Gházán; it is called so because this -country bears great resemblance to Damascus (Shám). Mohammed Gházán -Sháh built this castle, and peopled it with from ten to twelve thousand -subjects free from all duties and gifts. He then built this monument, -which has no equal either in Arabia or in Persian Irák, it is a tower -lifting its head to the skies like that of Galata. When I saw it, it -was a little damaged on the side of the gate by an earthquake; it is a -monument well worth seeing. I entered it with the Khán, said a Fátíhah, -and read the inscription on the marble coffin. More than two hundred -Dervishes inhabit the convent; outside of the gate, piles of sheep’s -heads are erected, many thousand sheep being immolated here by the -inhabitants of Persia, who have great confidence in this place; a well -ten yards deep affords refreshing water in summer. - -The name of Shám Gházán is a corruption of the Moghol language, in -which this Prince is called Shanb, whence Shám originated. The castle -which bears his name on Mount Welián is now in ruins. At the foot of -it is the Kent-Welián consisting of three hundred houses with a fine -mosque, khán and bath, founded by the Vezír Rashíd-ud-dín Dembolí. We -reached after five hours from hence, the Castle of Kúmla, built by Koja -Ferhád Páshá, the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. in the year 998 (1589), -it is a square castle at the foot of Mount Welián. It is eighty paces -in circumference, has seven towers, and two gates, one to the east and -one to the west; the eastern one is that leading to Tabríz. It was -from this place that Ja’afer Páshá, when besieged by the troops in -rebellion, made a sally at night, and completely routed the rebels. He -afterwards built this gate. Within the castle are seven hundred houses -and a mosque; the suburb forms the town of Kúmla, which abounds in -gardens; the grapes and pears of Kúmla are much celebrated. There are -seventy mosques, eleven of which are Jamiís (wherein Friday prayer is -said), the best is that of Ferhád Páshá. It is the seat of a Sultán -subordinate to Tabríz. A Kelenter and Darogha keep public order; a -Sultán is here the same as in Turkey a Sanjek Beg, and a Begler Beg is -called a Khán; a Vezír of three tails is called Itimád-ud-devlet; a -Commander-in-chief (Serdár) is here named Sipehsalár; Múnshí answers -to the Turkish Reis Efendí; Kelenter is the same as Alaï Beg, that is -to say Colonel of the Militia, and Darogha is the same as Súbashí or -Lieutenant of police; the head of the Chaúshes or ushers here takes -the name of Yessaúl Aghá, and the Aghá of the Dízchoken is the same -as an Aghá of the janissaries in Turkey. The names of Kúrúji, chief -of the forest guards, and Mihmándár or travelling commissary, are -common both to Turkey and Persia. We advanced from hence five hours -to the district of Serawerd, a great Kent north-west of Tabríz, with -a mosque, khán, and bath. We were entertained here during a whole -night by the Kelenter, and continued our journey next day, hunting -along the river Serawerd to the Kent-Dúsht, where we dined and halted -a little. We proceeded for six hours to the Kent-Jevlán Dorúk in the -district of Serawerd on the river of that name, with one thousand -houses, a bath and mosque. Further on is the Kent of Kánidlis, three -hundred Moslim houses and a mosque; the Armenians have three churches -and three thousand houses. Three hours further is the Kent-Lákid, the -khass of Rokhsháh’s Lady; the inhabitants are Armenian weavers, there -are two thousand houses, a mosque, a khán, and three convents; on the -mount of Serawerd stands a ruined castle. The Kent of Kujabád has five -hundred houses, a khán, a mosque and a bath. We now went eastward to -the district of Rudkát on the north of Tabríz behind mount Sorkháb, a -district of a hundred Kents, which we passed in hunting during three -days. - - -_Description of Merágha._ - -It is the seat of a Sultán commanding a thousand troops, and has a -Judge, Kelenter, Darogha and Múnshi; it was built in the earliest time -by Húshenk-sháh, and is the first town of Azerbeiján and its ancient -capital, surrounded with fruitful gardens, eleven farsangs distant from -Tabríz; eleven mosques, forty kháns, sixty mesjíds, forty convents of -Dervishes, eleven baths and three thousand shops. The inhabitants are -all weavers, who manufacture excellent Bogassin. The beautiful youth of -both sexes at Merágha are everywhere renowned. The town has risen from -its ruins since the havoc it suffered from the army of Sultán Murad -III. Its builder in the time of Islám was Merván Ibn Mohammed Al-Himár, -in whose time it extended to Mount Sehend and comprised seventy -thousand houses; but since it was destroyed by the Moghols in Húlagú’s -time, the buildings are at some distance from Mount Sehend, which as it -intercepted the north wind, was the reason that the air of its former -situation was so heavy. The water, however, issues from the mountain, -and abundantly furnishes the houses and gardens. Its pomegranates and -cotton are famous, the inhabitants are white and gazelle-eyed, of sweet -words and shining faces; a great part of them secretly follow the -orthodox rite of Hánefí. They mostly speak Pehleví; the whole country -is divided into eight districts, viz.: Serajún, Penajún, Jerút, Kaodúl, -Hestrúd, Behsánd, Engúrán, and Kizilorán; each district containing -from eighty to one hundred cultivated kents; altogether five hundred -and sixty kents, sixty towns, and seven castles; the description of -which, if we could undertake it in detail, would alone fill a volume. -We left Meragha and entered the district of Túrnachairí, wherein the -town of Aján is situated; the kent of Petiker of one thousand houses is -situated in this district. - - -_Description of Aján._ - -On the east side of mount Aján a large town was built by Peshen the -son of Keiúmerth, and, being ransacked by Húlagú, fell into decay, so -that all its inhabitants were transferred to Tabríz; it was rebuilt by -Gházán, who also built a castle of two thousand paces in circumference -on the edge of the mountain, with an iron gate opening to the east; -within it are one hundred houses, but no garrison, outside there are -three thousand houses, seven mosques, three baths, seven kháns, and -six hundred shops. The water comes from mount Aján; the inhabitants -are Sháfiítes, but keep their doctrine secret, they are merry fellows -(Ehl meshreb), and no rigourists (Ehl mezheb). The Armenians have two -convents. After having seen the town we continued our journey, hunting, -to the district of Mehránberúd, five farsangs to the east of Tabríz, -of sixty great kents. We passed those of Werd, Isfej and Saídabád, -built by a Vezír of that name in the time of Sultán Tahmurass, a large -kent of two thousand houses, seven mosques, a khán and bath, which -was ransacked by Sultán Súleimán in his way to Baghdád, but escaped -the havoc of Sultán Murad. We remained one night here and next day -proceeded seven hours towards the south-east to the Kent of Mán, built -by Máhkúr the daughter of Khodabende; nine hours further we arrived at -the castle of Kehreván built by Sháh Tahmáss, out of fear of Sultán -Súleimán. At the time of the expedition of Kojá Ferhád Páshá, as soon -as he arrived at Baghdád, he sent the General Solák Ferhád Páshá -against this place, who besieged the castle in vain during seventeen -days. This Khán Meimendí made continual inroads, till at Tabríz he was -completely routed by Ja’afer Páshá of Tabríz, who took seven thousand -heads and five thousand prisoners from him. The next day Ja’afer set -out with seventy thousand men for the siege of Kehreván, which was -taken on the third day. Meimendí being brought into the presence -of Ja’afer Páshá, his ear was cut off, his property confiscated and -himself hanged at the gate of the castle, the keys of which were -sent to Sultán Murad; there is even now a mosque named after Sultán -Murad: it remained eleven years in the hands of the Ottomans. It is -situated on a hill on the road to Baghdád; it is six thousand paces -in circumference, and has two gates, one to the south, and one to the -north; its Sultán commands one thousand men. The suburb consists of -seven thousand well-terraced houses, and sixty mosques, in eleven of -which public prayer is performed on Friday, seven baths, eleven kháns, -and eight hundred shops; the sheets and blankets manufactured here -are celebrated. We advanced seven hours further eastward, to a large -kent embellished by a mosque of Jíghála’s son; and nine hours further -on we arrived at the large town of Erdebíl, the first residence of -the Persian Sháhs of the Safí dynasty. It has been taken and retaken -several times by both Ottomans and Persians, and is now the seat of a -Khán, who commands three thousand men; it is a day’s journey from mount -Seilán, and is surrounded by high mountains at the same distance; it -lies in a fertile valley close to a lake. It was built by an Armenian -King in fear of Omar’s power, in the same year that Sáriet-ul-jebel -was sent to Nehavend; this is one of the principal reasons why Omar -is so much hated by the Persians, who do not show so much dislike to -Abúbekr and Osmán. This town formerly extended as far as mount Seilán, -from which it is now two farsangs distant; the farsang is equal to -twelve thousand ordinary paces, so that two farsangs are equal to -twenty-four thousand paces. The top of Seilán is always covered with -snow, which shines like silver in the middle of summer, and furnishes -all the water of the town; it is a very digestive water, which enables -the inhabitants to feast like Ma’adikarb. The inhabitants pretend to -be Sháfiítes; they are great liars. The distance between Tabríz and -Erdebíl is twenty-five farsangs, which with a good horse may be gone -over in two days. The climate much resembles that of Erzerúm; hard -winter, and a fruitful soil, the corn multiplying eighty fold: there -are no fruit-trees and vines, but gardens for vegetables and rosebeds. - -The lake near Tabríz on the east side is covered with many hundred -fishing-boats, on the west it is but a farsang’s distance from Rúmie; -between Erdebíl and the lake the country is covered with wood, and -villages are interspersed in the forest; there are seventy sorts of -fish; the boats on the lake also trade to Rúmie, Dúmdúmí and Dúmbúlí; -the circumference of this lake is greater than that of Wán, a man may -go round it in ten days; the water of the lake of Wán is bitter as -poison, but this is sweet as the water of life. Its depth is seventy -cubits. This lake was produced on the birthnight of the prophet, when -the vault of Chosroes, and that of Ayá Sófiyah, and the idols of Mecca -fell down by an earthquake; forty-five large and small springs flow -into it; the river Seilán which affords water to Erdebíl, the river -Kuherán and others fall into this sea. On the banks of the river Seilán -lies a large round mass of iron, three quintals in weight, extremely -well polished, on which ancient philosophers have written a kind of -Hebrew inscription with a figure lifting its two arms up to Heaven; if -rain is wanted this stone is carried in procession into the town, and -it never fails to rain day and night without ceasing till the stone is -replaced. The basis on which this marvellous stone reposes is a large -rock, covered with strange inscriptions; it also has twelve holes, from -which as soon as the iron mass is rolled away, water begins to rush -forth, and ceases not until the stone is returned to its place. Some -persons assert this to be the stone which Moses struck in the desert, -others believe that this miracle is performed in favour of Sheikh -Safí; be it as it may, it is a great talisman. Erdebíl is famous for -its immense number of mice which are great destroyers of cloth. Cats -are, therefore, so dear that they are sold in cages by public auction; -some of Dívrígui fetch the price of a hundred piastres, but they are -short-lived like all cats of Erdebíl. The cryers at the auction call -out; “A good hunting cat, well bred, a good companion, an enemy to -rats, which steals not!” - - -_Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl._ - -The first of all is the tomb of Sheikh Safí, the son of Sheikh Khoja -Alí, the son of Sheikh Sadr-ud-dín Mússa, the son of Sheikh Safr-ud-dín -Abú Ishák of Erdebíl, the founder of the dynasty of the Safís. His -tomb-keepers are some hundred dervishes, a large foundation. Sheikh -Safí governed only in a spiritual sense; his son Hyder was his -successor, and Ibrahím the son of Hyder having dreamt of concubinage -with an ass, his possession of the Empire was foretold by his grandsire -Sheikh Safí; indeed Sheikh Ibrahím was the first who enjoyed the rights -of sovereignty; from Sheikh Safí to Sháh Abbás are five Sháhs who -coined money. We left Erdebíl, marched nine hours further to the north, -and came to Kent Rarám, a kent of six hundred houses with gardens; -eight hours further we came to the Kent Yár Alí, three hundred houses, -a mosque, no khán or bath, but a large number of shops and a weekly -market; six hours further to the north, the Kent of Merzáde Amád in -the district of Dídher, eight hundred houses. After eight hours, we -arrived at Tabríz again, where I remained some days more, passing from -one entertainment to another. Letters were now written for the kháns -and commanders of the places I was to pass through on my return, and -the letter of the Khán to the Páshá made ready. The presents sent to -him consisted of ten camel loads of rice, dried raisins, dried pears, -pomegranates, and two racehorses of the breed Karajubúk, four trotting -horses, and two boys dressed in precious cloth perfumed with musk. To -me he gave ten tománs Abbássí, a Georgian slave, a Persian pelisse, a -Persian dress, six turbans, and a string of camels, loaded with rice, -a black horse of the race Karajubúk, a trotting one (Chapár-átí), with -Persían bridle and saddle. I took leave of all my friends, and next -day left Tabríz in grand procession with the khán, accompanied by the -Royal music of trumpets and kettle drums. We halted at the place Ain -Alí, where a grand dinner, and five tománs Abbássí more, were given to -me for the expenses of the journey. My suite received twenty tománs of -aspers, a piece of velvet, three of Alas, and six turbans. The Khán -recommended me to the care of a Yessavúl Aghá, who was to escort me -with three hundred men, embraced me, and returned to Tabríz, while we -took the road to Eriván. - - - - -JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN. - - -In God’s name we set out from Tabríz to the north, and reached the Kent -Hají Harámí, of three hundred houses surrounded with rose gardens; -a foundation of Shám Ghazán, whose tomb may be seen from hence. The -next day the Kelenter took leave, and we continued our way to Kent -Safián, which was formerly a great kent, but has since been ruined -by the Mogols and still more by Sultán Murad IV., it is a delightful -place on the territory of Tabríz. Some learned men and writers are -buried here, but I don’t know their names; there are more than twenty -cupolas. In the month of Moharrem on the day of A’ashúra, the feast in -commemoration of the murder of Hossein is celebrated here with great -pomp, the people are all Sháfiítes. Further to the north we reached -Mezídkhán on the frontiers of Tabríz; five hundred houses covered -with terraces, two mosques, a very spacious khán, a bath and royal -market-place. Seven hours more to the northward is the station of Kent -Keremish, on the frontier or Nakhshiván; a thousand houses, seven -mosques, a khán and bath. Our way now led northward through marshy -grounds, and we pitched our tents on the borders of Wishlechaí. This -river issues from the mountains of Nahkshiván and joins the Aras. We -suffered much from dust here, and after two hours travelling reached -the castle of Khúí, a fine town of Azerbeiján, the seat of a Sultán, -who commands a thousand men; the public authorities are a judge, -Muftí, Darogha, Kelenter, Nakíb, Múnshí, Kúrújí and Dízchoken Aghá. -The castle is built in a square form on the plain, its circumference -is seven hundred paces; the ditch is not very deep. Of its two gates -one leads to the south, the other to the west; it contains a hundred -houses and a mosque. Its builder was Ferhád Páshá, but the old town -was built by Sháh Haider, and it has been sacked more than once since. -This suburb or outer town consists of seven thousand houses with -terraces, seventy mosques, eleven of which are Jamis, two baths, seven -kháns, and a thousand shops with gardens. I and my boys measured the -circumference, which is ten thousand paces. The air is rather warm -and favorable therefore to the culture of rice. The river issues from -Mount Selmás, and flows into the Araxes. The fruits are famous, above -all the Prophet-pears, which have no equal in sweetness and delicious -taste. Owing to the mildness of the climate, the inhabitants are all -white, and the women are innumerable. Some historians call this town -Asháristán, Iránistán or Turkistán. Its districts reckon one hundred -and eighty villages, the inhabitants of which are for the most part -Sunnites, Sháfiítes, who paid a capitation tax to Sháh Ismail for the -privilege of letting their beards grow (Sakál Túlí), but have been -exempted since the time of Sháh Sefí. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí._ - -He died in the year 495 on his way from Antiochia to Isfahán, in this -town of Khúí. After a stay of two days, we continued our journey with -two hundred armed guards to the north, and arrived at the end of nine -hours at the town of Behestán, the seat of a Kelenter. It was anciently -a town of the size of Tabríz but was ruined by Húlagú; it is now a -small place of a thousand houses, three mosques, a khán, bath and small -market, with innumerable gardens. Three hours further northward, we -reached the castle of Joris on the frontier of Nakshiván; the seat of -a khán, who commands two thousand troops, a judge and twelve public -officers in honour of the twelve Imáms. The castle, a pentagon, is -situated on a hill, simply walled and therefore not very strong. It -was first built by Uzún Hassan the Sháh of Azerbeiján and was ruined -by Murád IV. its ruined parts are now chalked off [fenced off?] like a -Palanka. Though situated on a hill, yet the hill itself is at the foot -of a high mountain. It has a gate looking to the south-east; within the -castle there is no remarkable building but the mosque of Rúshen Hassan -Páshá. The outer town consists of seven thousand houses, and eleven -mosques, of which that of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá and Ferrúkh-zadeh Sháh -Ibn Timúr are the best; there are three mosques, seven kháns, and two -hundred shops. The young people are extremely pretty, with eyes like -the roes of Khoten, sweet-tongued with merry faces, who, if they walk -dressed in red embroidered dresses, like peacocks of Paradise, make all -their lovers lose their wits, and by half a look make as many Mejnúns -of them. We spent three days and nights here with Eyúb Khán the Khán -of the town, continually entertained by music. On the fourth day we -continued our journey, after having been overwhelmed with presents. - -We now passed on towards the east where the river of Karajubúk issues -from the mountains of Joris, and then joins the Araxes; in the summer -months this river may be crossed by sheep and goats. We advanced to -the north amidst Kents for four hours to Kent Hallí, on the frontier -of Eriván; five hundred houses with gardens, a mosque and a bath, -on the banks of the Hallí river, which issues from the mountains of -Sepend and joins the Aras. Passing on to the north through woods, -we came after eight hours march to the pleasant meadow of Tútolúmí, -where there are some hundred shady trees, but no village. The Daroghas -and Kelenters of the neighbouring kents flocked together to furnish -us with necessary provisions. We passed one night here, and next day -continued our journey along the Aras, crossed it, and came to Kent -Kagáj situated on the eastern bank of the Aras; it has a mosque, a -khán, a bath, and three hundred houses, with a great number of rice -fields. We passed through sandy ground with great dust, nine hours to -the north, and reached Kent Ashárlí in the territory of Eriván, with a -thousand houses, a mosque, a khán, and a bath; its product is rice; it -takes its name from the inhabitants, who belong to the tribe Ashárlí. -Travelling along the Aras through well cultivated fields and gardens, -we reached after seven hours the town of Shúreglí, the seat of a -Sultán, who commands one thousand horsemen; there is a mosque, a khán -and a bath. After ten hours we came to Sheráb Khán with five hundred -houses, a mosque and a khán; then to Kent Seif-ud-dín on the frontier -of Eriván, and on the banks of the Aras, it was built by Seifkúlí the -Khán of Eriván, and belongs to the khass of Eriván, there are a hundred -and eighty houses, a mosque, and some plantations of rice. Five hours -further to the north along the Aras is the Kent Tílfirák, of a thousand -houses, a mosque, a convent, a khán, a bath, and plantations of rice. -At the time of the siege of Eriván, Murad IV. cut down seventy thousand -trees which were used as bulwarks, but since that time an immense -number of trees have grown again. We sent a message from hence to the -Khán of Eriván, next day crossed a lively river, halted on a meadow, -and met a great procession (Alaï,) which was the Kiaya of the Khán of -Eriván who was sent to meet us (Istikbál); we made our entrance into -Eriván with him, were saluted by twenty guns, and lodged in a palace of -the Khán. Hassan Beg went on from hence with the letters and presents -of the Khán of Tabríz to Erzerúm, and I occupied myself in delivering -those for the Khán of Eriván. - - -_Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván)._ - -In the year 810 (1407) Khoja Khán Lejchání, a rich merchant of Timúr’s -suite settled here with all his family and servants, cultivating -plantations of rice, by which means a great Kent was soon formed. -Five years later Sháh Ismail gave to Reván Kúl, one of his Kháns, an -order to build a castle here, which being finished in seven years, was -named after him, Reván or Eriván. It is situated on the eastern bank -of the Zenghí river, and is of brick and stone. In the year 995 (1586) -Súleimán Khán, having undertaken the expedition against Nakhshiván, -pillaged Eriván, and returned to his residence with immense booty. In -the reign of Murad III. Ferhád Páshá, his general, pillaged Kenje, -Reván, Shamákhí and Nakhshiván, destroyed the palaces of the son of -the Sháh, killed a great number of Persians, fixed his camp before the -castle, and assembled a council of war to deliberate on the siege, and -begun it by digging a ditch on the bank of the Zenghí from south to -north. By the exertion of all the siege was finished in forty days. -Jigálazadeh Yússúf Páshá, who had been bred in the Turkish Harím, -was named the first Commander of Eriván with a garrison of seventy -thousand men. Ferhád Páshá, took care of the repair of the castle of -Shúreglí and Karss, and filled them with Moslim troops. In the same -way the castle of Erdehán and Akhichka were garrisoned, and Ferhád -Páshá returned to Constantinople. Under the government of Jigálazadeh -Yússúf Páshá, the town of Eriván was even in a more flourishing state -than in Súleimán’s time, and the neighbouring villages grew thereby -populous. In the year 1011 (1602), the Persians having usurped the -possession of the castles of the Genge and Shirván, forced the garrison -of Eriván, which had received no succour from Erzerúm, to surrender -to Tokmák Khán, after a siege of seven months; in the year 1037 -(1627), the Khán of Eriván, Emírgúneh, having infested the districts -of Kághzemán, Karss, Cheldir, Akhichka and Erdehán, and complaints -having arrived from the Begs of Georgia and from the Governor of -Erzerúm, ambassadors were sent from the Khán of Persia, and at the -same time the Imperial tails fixed at Scutari as the signal of Asiatic -war. In the following year 1044 (1634) Sultán Murad IV. completed -his Imperial camp of Scutarí according to the canons of the Empire, -with the greatest splendour and pomp, heaped presents upon his forty -thousand janissaries and twenty-two thousand sipáhís, left Bairám -Páshá, Kaima Khám at Constantinople, and moved on the 5th of Shewál -from Scutari, marching over Konia and Kaissarie to Sivás; at which -place he appointed his sword-bearer Mustafa to the office of Second -Vezír, and the sword-bearer Mússa Páshá to the post of Quarter-master -General. The Nishánjí was made Silihdár, and Melek Ahmed, Chokadár -(First Lord in waiting). When he entered Erzerúm report was made -to him, that his army then amounted to two hundred thousand men: -Jánpúlád-zadeh Mustafa Páshá, the governor of Rúmelí, alone mustered -thirty-one thousand men, with seventeen hundred excellent horses; -Khalíl Páshá the Governor of Erzerúm fell into disgrace, to the joy of -his enemies, the Silihdár Páshá and Murteza Páshá; the government of -Erzerúm was conferred on the Governor of Damascus, Kúchúk Ahmed, but -the revenues, as barley-money, were given to Silihdár Mustafa Páshá. -The army marched in three days to Hassan Kala’assí, and from thence by -Karss to Eriván. On the 21st day after having left Erzerúm, the army of -two hundred thousand men fixed its camp before Reván. The river Zenghí -was crossed in spite of the long guns of the Persians, with which they -endeavoured to annoy the Ottoman army. On this occasion it happened -that one of the Soláks (bowmen) of the Sultán’s guard, crossing the -river on foot by the side of the Sultán’s horse, was carried away by -the water, the Sultán having observed it rode after him, caught hold -of him by the necklace and dragged him out of the river; this anecdote -is much celebrated in Persia. The river being crossed, the trenches -were opened, and Jánpúlád-zadeh Páshá entered them with the Rúmelian -troops from the side of the gate of Tabríz; on the right Gúnjí Mahomed -Páshá with the Asiatic troops entered the trenches, and in the midst of -them the grand Vezír Tabání Yassí Mohammed Páshá took his station; the -Aghá of the janissaries Kara Mustafa Páshá, with his Kiaya, battered -the castle day and night with a battery of twenty guns, and similar -batteries were prepared on five sides. One day Sultán Murad himself -entered the trenches of the Rúmelian troops, and fired a good shot -at the Khán’s palace from the gun called Karabálí. The governor of -Erzerúm, Kúchúk Ahmed, battered the castle from the north side, and the -Kapúdán Páshá, Delí Hossein, from the hill of Mohana-depeh. - -Murteza Páshá, with the Sipáhís, were placed as sentinels on the side -of the earth castle, while Mússa and Cana’an Páshá with the Moteferrika -kept guard over the Imperial tent. The castle was surrounded by troops -in the space of five hours, and every day many thousand Sunnís came to -claim mercy. On the ninth day they asked to capitulate, and Emírgúneh -brought the keys. The next day the Persian Aghá of the Fusileers, Mír -Fettáh, was allowed to kiss the Emperor’s feet, and to return with -the garrison to Nakhshiván. Emírgúneh, by birth a Georgian, and Aded -Khán kissed the Emperor’s feet, and each received an Imperial tent as -a present. The Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, all the banners and -standards waving during seven days and nights on the walls; after each -prayer the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was repeated three times, and at -night a great number of candles and lamps were lighted. The castle was -repaired in forty days, and Mustafa Páshá appointed Governor of Eriván, -with forty thousand men as garrison. Sultán Murad appointed the Khán -Emírgúneh first governor of Haleb, but afterwards removed him and gave -the government to Kúchúk Ahmed Páshá. Emírgúneh remained the favourite -of Sultán Murad IV. until the death of the Sultán, when he was killed -by Kara Mustafa Páshá. - -The towns of Shureglí, Joris, Behestán, Khúí, Ordúbárí and Tabríz were -pillaged during seven days and nights, together with the castles of -Bágjenán, Aján, Kuherán, Kúmla, Merend, and Selmás, after which havoc -he returned by Betlis, and Diarbekr to Constantinople. The Sháh then -laid siege to Eriván for the space of seven months, which received no -relief on account of the enmity existing between the Grand Vezír Tabání -Yassí and Murteza Páshá, who was shut up in Eriván. The latter having -no subsistence left, killed himself by swallowing his diamond ring, -and the next day the whole garrison, half naked and starved, threw -themselves on the mercy of the Persians and were killed by them, a -great number being driven into the Aras, of whom a few being saved by -charitable Sunnís fled to Karss and Bayazíd. Sultán Murad IV. hearing -this sad account, girt himself on two sides with the sword of religious -zeal and high enterprise, with the intention to conquer Baghdád, and to -deliver the tomb of the great Imám Na’amán Ben Thábet out of the hands -of the Infidels. - -Eriván meanwhile remained in the hands of the Persians, who increased -its flourishing state; it could not however resist an assault of the -Ottoman army for seven days, because it is only surrounded by a simple -wall. It is situated on the bank of the Zenghí, extending from the -south to the north, having so little breadth, that the balls fired -on it by Sultán Murad bounded from one extremity of the town to the -other; many of these balls are even now seen fixed in the towers. The -walls built by Ferhád Páshá are forty royal cubits high; those built -by Tokmák Khán, fifty cubits high and twenty broad; it has no ditch on -the side of the Zenghí, but it has a wall on the south, north and east -sides, which however is not deep, being a marshy ground. It has three -iron gates; to the south, the gate of Tabríz; to the north, the gate of -the Meidán called Yaila Kapússí, on this spot they play Maïl; to the -west, the gate of the bridge; there are seven hundred cannons large and -small, which remained from the time of the Ottomans, and an immense -number of other stores, because it is the frontier of Azerbeiján. It is -garrisoned by three thousand men of the fortress, three thousand men of -the Khán, and seven thousand men of the province. Sometimes its Khán -enjoyed the title of Khán of Kháns. A judge, Nakíb, Kelenter, Darogha, -Múnshí, Yessaúl-aghá, Kúrújí, Ishek Aghá, Dízchoken Aghá, seven -Mihmandárs and Sháhbenders, keep public order. The town consists of one -thousand and sixty elegant houses covered with earth, the best is the -palace of the Khán much embellished by Emírgúneh. Near it is the mint -where large and small silver coins (Abbássí and Bestí) are coined. The -suburb outside of Yaila Kapússí is called the old town; at the head of -the bridge is the Khán’s garden, and a suburb with mosque and bath. In -the year 1045 (1635), when the Persians conquered this fortress, they -also built a castle on the east side, with walls of clay and straw, -which is even more solid than stone. At the time I was looking at all -the curiosities of Eriván, I received an invitation from the Khán to -assist at the ceremony of the circumcision of his sons. His Kiaya gave -me ten tománs of Abbássí, for the expenses of the journey, and I began -my journey from Eriván to Shirván, by Shamákhí, Tiflís, Termís, Aras -and Bakú. We first travelled to the north through cultivated fields of -rice, along the river Zenghí to Kent Khoja, the khass of the Khán of -Eriván, with five hundred houses, a mosque and a bath; then fourteen -hours further to Kent Demijí Hassan, which was anciently a town of -the Turcomans, and is even now inhabited by a Turcoman tribe. It was -destroyed by Murád IV. We arrived at last at Genje. - - -_Description of the important town of Genje._ - -It was wrested from the hands of Sháh Tahmás, in the year 1014 (1065), -by Kojá Ferhád Páshá. At the time when Mohammed Páshá the Kiaya of Sárí -Ahmed Páshá, was governor of Genje, the Sháh besieged it for seven -months, and killed the whole garrison. Since that time it remained in -the possession of the Persians, a large town, but the Sháh destroyed -its castle; it is now an elegant town of six thousand houses with -gardens and vineyards, a khán, a bath, and imáret, situated in a large -plain. Its gardens are watered by the Kúrek, which joins the Kúr; the -Kiblah side of the town is a mountainous tract, and the foot of the -mountains is cultivated in gardens and vineyards; the silk of Genje -is famous. On the plain round Genje are seven districts of Infidel -villages, where cotton, silk and rice are cultivated; here are rich -Moghs (ancient Persians, worshippers of fire) and beautiful youth of -both sexes; the horse-shoes of Genje are not less famous than the silk. -The town is governed by a Khán, who commands three thousand men. The -public officers (the Khán included) are twelve in number, in honour of -the twelve Imáms. Its first Ottoman governor was Khádim Hassan, who -conquered Berda’a. - - -_Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs._ - -Twelve thousand Moslims, who had surrendered the castle by capitulation -to the Sháh, were unmercifully killed, and are now buried outside the -town in a place called Shohedaí Ervám (martyrs of Rúm). We remained -three days as guests in the khán of the town, and continued our journey -with about fifty companions to the north; on our right was the Khánlik -of Loristán. After seven hours march we arrived at Gilkzár Ahmedí, -formerly a town, but now a kent of seven hundred houses, the khass -of the Khán of Genje, with a mosque, a khán, and a bath; fine silk -is manufactured here. Nine hours further, is the Kent of Megúchúr of -seven hundred houses, with a mosque, and a fine garden. On the opposite -shore of the Kúr is a great kent called Kendere; we passed in boats to -Megúchúr, the frontier of Genje, and after eight hours we reached the -great town of Aras. - -The town of Aras was built by Keyúmerth, and conquered in the year -985 (1577), by Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. Emír Khán -arrived with forty thousand men to succour the town, and finding it -taken he fought a battle, which terminated in his being made prisoner, -and all his troops consisting of Turcomans, Koks, Doláks, and Georgians -were dispersed. They were routed for the second time by the Kiaya of -Uzdemir-oghlí on the banks of the Kúr river which swallowed up a great -number of them, the bridge having broken down under the weight of the -fugitives; their bones are yet seen in heaps, and the bridge still -lies in ruins. The Turkish general having convinced himself of the -importance of the town of Aras, situated between Genje and Shirván, -collected masons and workmen, and enclosed the town with a wall, -including the garden Sháh Khiabán, which was outside of the town; three -gates led through this wall of clay, the circumference of which is nine -thousand six hundred paces. It was finished in forty days, and the -governorship, with the rank of a Begler Beg, conferred on Kaitáss-Beg, -who had been brought up in the Harím of Sultán Murad. From its -situation at the foot of a mountain, the town resembles that of Brússa, -surrounded with gardens of fruits and flowers, vineyards and rosebeds. -It consists of ten thousand houses with terraces, and forty mosques; in -the castle are those of Murad III., of Ferhád Páshá, and of Kara Sinán. -The Turkomans and Komúks of Dághistán, pronounce the name of this town -Arash. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Mustafa, this town like -that of Merend fell into the hands of the Persians. Forty quarters may -now be reckoned, and as many mosques, sixteen baths, eight hundred -shops, and seven coffee-houses. The youth are gazelle-eyed, with faces -shining like the sun, because their women are Georgians, Dadiáns, -Achikbásh, and Shúshád. The air is mild and the water of the royal -mountain (Sháhkúh) most excellent. Around it are seven great districts -each of which reckons one hundred populous kents, the most populous is -that of Levend Khán near Aras. On crossing the bridge of Uzdemir-oghlí -Osmán Páshá, the traveller arrives at the district of Palvanaí, and the -district of Shair Abadán, where a castle is seen on a rock, the name of -which I do not remember. - -The royal mount, opposite the town, is the summer abode of the -Turcomans. Amidst the districts of Aras is also that of Shekí, which -is now governed by the governor of Aras, though it was sometimes ruled -by the power of the Princes of Dághistán. The Khán of Aras leads -twenty-three thousand men into the field. Twelve public officers keep -order in the town. After a stay of three days in this town, we advanced -to the north, and after two stations reached the castle of Shekí. - - -_Description of the Castle of Shekí._ - -It was built by Alexander a Prince of the Shúshads, from whose hands -it passed into those of the Prince of Dághistán, and then into those -of the Persians. Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. -conquered it, and it was conferred on Erkelád Beg, the son of Levend -Khán. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Mustafa it returned into -the possession of the Persians, and is now the seat of a Sultán, who -commands one thousand men. It is a nice castle built on a rock, its -circuit three thousand paces, a ditch is not required; its two gates -are that of Genje and that of Shirván; though situated on the frontier -of Dághistán it is reckoned to belong to Georgia, the more so as its -builder was a Georgian; there are three thousand houses, and seven -mihrabs; in the market is the mosque of Mirza Alí Beg, in the castle -that of Lagúsh-oghlí Ahmed Beg; that of Murad III. is falling into -decay. In the gardens great quantities of silk are produced. At a -journey’s distance east of this castle passes the river Kanúk, flowing -into the Zenghí. Advancing to the north, we crossed the river of -Uzdemir-oghlí Osmán Páshá and arrived at the place Koyún-gechid, where -we saw piles of human bones; our companion Yasser Alí Aghá told us, -that it was on this spot that Mustafa Páshá, the general of Murad III., -was attacked by the Kháns of Tabríz, Lor, Nakhshiván, and Karabágh, -who with more than two hundred thousand men surrounded him. Koja Lala -Mustafa Páshá ordered a general attack, which was instantly made on -one side by Uzdemir-oghlí, on the second by Mohammed, the governor of -Haleb, and on the third by Mustafa, the governor of Mera’ash, who cut -to pieces more than a thousand men, and drove the rest like sheep to -the ferry of Koyún-gechid, where a great many of them were drowned, -some in the river Kanúk and some in the Kapúr. In short there remained -altogether more than forty thousand men on the field of battle, whose -bones are piled up as an everlasting monument; I said a Fátihah for -their souls, and crossed the sheep’s ferry. Further on to the north -we passed the white river (Aksú), which is called by the Persians -the river of Gilán. It comes from the mountains of Aras, and flows -into the Kúr. At the end of three hours we entered the district of -Mahmúdabád consisting of two hundred highly cultivated kents, which -produce a thousand Yúks of silk, each kent resembling a large town. The -inhabitants are Turkománs, Kok, Dulák, Moghols, and Ettels. - - -_Account of the Tribe of Ettels._ - -Ettel signifies in the Mogolic language, tongue of dogs; they take this -name from their war-cry, which is a kind of howling. Near Márdín, in -the sanjak of the mountains, which I entered with Melek Ahmed Páshá, -the Ettels are a tribe like that of the hairy Kurds, impure, impious, -irreligious robbers, who pretend to be of Hamza’s sect, keep neither -prayer-hours nor fasts, are ignorant of moral duties and of God. Seven -or eight of them share a woman amongst them; if she gets with child, -her seven or eight keepers after some time assemble, and the woman -gives an apple into the child’s hand, the man to whom the child gives -it is reckoned to be the father, and henceforth the woman belongs -exclusively to him, without any man being allowed to raise pretensions -to her. The famous sect of the candle-extinguishers (Múm sonduren), -must be a branch of them, because I saw or heard nothing of them any -where else. It is a certain fact that they drink out of the shoes of -their Sháhs, to whom they are most obedient. - -The Kaitáks are about twenty thousand men on the frontiers of -Dághistán, who sometimes come to the towns of Aras and Shekí; a strange -race of men like the beast of the day of judgement, with heads in the -form of kettles, brows two fingers broad, shoulders so square that a -man may easily stand upon them, thin limbs, round eyes, large heels, -and red faces. They pretend to be Sháfítes; if they come to the market -of Aras and Shekí, they come on waggons, or ride on buffaloes, because -horses and asses could not carry their weight: as they pass with their -turbans of the size of a cupola, saluting on both sides with great -dignity, they seem to be of the race of Dejál (the Antichrist) true -Oghúzians. These Kaitáks come originally from the province of Mahán, -are Mogholian Turks, and therefore speak the Mogolic language, of -which I could only collect a few words, as I remained but two days -among them. I saw these people in the district of Mahmúdabád, and -after having travelled further to the north, reached the kent Chailán -on the frontier of Shirván on the banks of the river of Guílán, with -six hundred houses of Turcomans and Oghúzians. Further on is the town -Niázabád on the frontier of Shirván built by Yezdejerd-sháh, great -ruins of its ancient magnificence are yet extant, it was ruined by -the Moghols, who united with the Komúks and Kaitáks of Dághistán. In -the reign of Murad III., Ferhád Páshá fixed his winter quarters here, -and levelled the castle, when he left it in the spring. It is now the -frontier between Dághistán and Persia, with forty quarters and as -many mosques, a khán, bath and market-place, the seat of a Sultán who -commands a thousand men. There are twelve magistrates; according to -the statement of the Kelenter, there are more than six thousand houses -surrounded by gardens. It is a pity that its strong castle lies in -ruins; if God should again grant that it be restored to the Ottoman -power, it might be easily repaired, and become a very strong castle. -This town is surrounded by an endless plain on all four sides. - - -_Pilgrimage of Ashár-Baba._ - -Ashár-Baba was one of the disciples of our great ancestor the Turk -of Turks, Khoja Ahmed Yessúí; as the rites of Yessúí are liked in -Persia the convent at this place is inhabited by more than a hundred -Dervishes. It is a general pilgrimage, the inhabitants profess to be of -the sect of Hanefí. We here took some companions and advanced to the -north to the kent Ferrakhzád on the frontier of Shamákhi, and on the -bank of the white river (Aksú) with five hundred houses, a mosque, a -khán, a bath and a small market. The mihmándár of this place paid me -many attentions. We advanced to the north amongst shady groves, dined -at a hunting place of Sháh Khoda-bende, and arrived at Nílchaí, the -same as blue river (Goksú), which coming from Dághistán joins the Kúr -at this place. - - -_Praise of Mount Caucasus._ - -The rivers which come from Mount Caucasus, on the south, flow into -the Kúr, and those towards the north, straight into the Caspian Sea. -Again there are rivers on the south side, which fall into the Black -Sea, and on the north side into the Kúbán. Mount Caucasus is the -greatest mountain in the world, its tracts are ruled by five different -monarchs, and to the south the Abáza tribes are settled to the extent -of eighty journies. On the east side on the border of the mountain are -the Mingrelians, Georgians, Ajíkbásh, Shúshád, Kúrdíl, and Dadián to -the extent of forty journies. Again there is the province of Tiflís on -the Persian frontier, and the throne of the Alans (Serer-ul-allán) on -the border of Mount Caucasus nineteen journies long; Dághistán, within -Mount Caucasus, twenty journies long to the north. Inside of Mount -Caucasus is also Circassia inhabited by the tribes Kabartaí, Bestí, -Púltakaí, Khatúkaí, Memsúkh, Bozadúk, Takakú, Zana, Shefáke and other -Circassian tribes, eighty-one journies. According to this reckoning the -extent of all the tracts of Mount Caucasus is two hundred and forty -journies. It is so high that it is seen at ten days distance. God -has created on the surface of the earth one hundred and forty-eight -mountains, twelve of the highest _par excellence_, are, Mount Caucasus, -Mount Bingol, Mount Demavend, Mount Siján, Mount Kamar, the mountains -in Germany at the source of the Danube; the mount Samúr, where the -Zeiro and the Dniester take their origin. No man has ever reached half -the height of Mount Caucasus: passing on our way through the districts -of Dághistán we saw its top wrapped in clouds. But we shall now return -to the description of our journey. - -The kent of Kokchaí (the blue river) is a great place with a Kelenter -and Mihmándár, seven hundred houses with gardens. The inhabitants are -Sunnís, who pay tribute to Sháh Ismail for permission to wear beards. -We continued our journey through fields to the north, for seven -hours, and reached the kent Aksú, on the territory of Shamákhí, of -one thousand houses, a mosque, khán and bath. The White River passes -through the place and flows into the Kúr, it comes from the mountains -of Shirván, waters the fields of Shamákhí and falls into the Kúr. - - -_Description of the Town of Shamákhí._ - -It was first built by Yezdejerd Sháh the Persian Monarch; it is the -centre of seven Khánliks, some spell it Shám Akhí (the brother of -Damascus), and some Shám Ahí (the sigh of Damascus), because its first -inhabitants were a colony from Damascus; forty Sultáns and forty judges -are attached to it, seventy castles and thirteen hundred kents like -large towns: Ulama Páshá and Pírí Páshá, two Vezírs of Sultán Súleimán -took possession of it in their Emperor’s name, and Ulama Páshá was -named governor of Shirván; Sháh Tahmás then besieged the town during -three months, conquered it, and gave the government to his younger -brother, Elkáss Mirza, who remained three years at his post, but then, -being afraid of his brother, took flight with all his valuable things, -came through the steppes in forty days to Kafa, embarked himself and -paid his homage to Sultán Súleimán at Constantinople. In the year 954 -(1547), Elkáss Mirza undertook with Lala Mustafa an expedition to -Persia, and then took up his abode in the palace of Pertev Páshá at -Constantinople. Having witnessed the pomp of Sultán Súleimán’s solemn -entrance, he said, “How it is possible that with such power your -Emperor of the Ottomans should not be at the same time the monarch of -Iran?” Súleimán carried Elkáss along with him on the expedition to Wán -and Azerbeiján. Lala Mustafa Páshá was named governor of Shirván, and -Elkáss Mirza, his predecessor in this government, ravaged the provinces -of Nakhshiván, Eriván, Genje, and Shirván. Sháh Tahmas having died, the -castle of Shamákhí was taken after a siege of seven days from his son; -Lala Páshá was named governor of Shamákhí, and Elkáss Mirza Khán of -Mahmúdabád. He ravaged Persia as far as Isfahán in order to quench his -thirst for vengeance. Shamákhí was then contested for by both powers, -till in the reign of Murad III. it was conquered, and then repaired -by Uzdemír-oghlí Páshá. The Persians reconquered it and lost it again -to Ferhád Páshá. It remained in the hands of the Ottománs till the -time of Sultán Murad IV. when the Persians took Derbend and Shamákhí -by usurpation, and sent the garrison prisoners to Constantinople. It -has ever since remained in the power of the Persians, and is now the -seat of a Khán. The castle is on a hill on the bank of the river, the -interior one is very strong, but the exterior is in decay. The town -consists of about seven thousand well built houses, stone walls, and -terraces, each house provided with water; there is an infinite number -of gardens, and twenty-six quarters; the quarters called Meidán and -Shabúrán being in the inner castle are the most elegant; there are -seventy mosques, the oldest is that of Div Alí, who was one of the -Kháns of Shah Tahmáss, but a Sunní; in the suburb is the great mosque -of Sháh Safí, which rivals the vault of the palace of Chosroes. In the -court-yard is a basin, and round it cells for students; the gates of -the mosque of Ferhád Páshá are closed, because it has no endowment; -the mosque of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá is a college, where the Muftí holds -lectures: there is a dining establishment of Sultán Khodabende’s -foundation, forty schools for boys, seven pleasant baths, the best of -which is that of Shabúr, with numerous private rooms and a basin, its -waiters are fine youths. Besides the public baths, there are private -ones in every garden. There are forty caravánseraïs, in each of which -many thousand tománs of wares are deposited. The public security is so -great, that every man leaves his shop open, without the least danger, -when he goes away on business; there are altogether twelve hundred -shops. There is no Bezestán of stone, but nevertheless a great number -of valuable articles; the coffee-houses are meeting-places for wits and -learned men; the air is mild and the land fertile; rice, cotton, seven -sorts of grapes, pears, and water-melons are in great perfection. The -greatest part of the inhabitants are Sunnís of the Hanefirites, who -perform their prayers secretly. I remained during seven days a guest -of the Khán of Shamákhí, Takí Khán, a generous, liberal man, who liked -society and good company. He presented us with many pieces of silk -stuffs, ten tománs of Abássí, and a horse (Karajubúk). Being himself -invited to the entertainment of the Khán of Eriván, he set out from -Shamákhí with one thousand men. Marching to the north we came to the -pilgrimage of Pírderkúh (the old man of the mountain) a great saint, -a fine walking-place the view from which embraces all the buildings -of Shamákhí; the inhabitants of three hundred adjacent villages are -for the most part Dervishes of the order of Begtásh, belonging to -the Convent of this Saint. We advanced from hence six hours to the -north through a cultivated country, and reached the station of Pír -Merízát, where we were treated as guests by the Kelenter. The convent -of this place is called Pír Mirza by some, and Pír Mirka by others, -but the proper mode of spelling the word is Merizát, which signifies -incurvated, because his body is seated in one of the corners of the -convent in an incurvated position, his face turned towards the Kiblah, -his head recumbent on a rock. His body is light and white like cotton, -without corruption at all. The Dervishes who are busy all day long in -cleaning and sweeping the convent, put every night a basin of clear -water at the feet of the Saint, and find it empty in the morning; his -dress is thus always washed white without the least dust upon it. The -brains of those who visit this place are perfumed by the scent of -ambergris. Sheikh Sefí who came from Erdebíl to visit this Saint spent -treasures in building this convent of Dervishes Begtáshí, which has -its equal perhaps only in the town of Meshhed Mússa Riza. Its entrance -fills all who visit it with a sacred awe, like culprits appearing -before a great monarch as their judge. I visited it, read the Súra Yass -in honour of the Saint, and made spiritual acquaintance with him. I am -unable to quote the date of his death, as there is no chronostick on -the gate; but one of the Dervishes told me that he was the Múëzzin of -Sheikh Ibrahím Shirvání, who had arrived at such a degree of sanctity, -that when he proclaimed prayers at the five hours, the skies all moved -in uproar. Sheikh Ibrahím touched his back bone, which is the cause of -his incurvated position and good preservation. Whoever says at his tomb -the seven verses of a Fátihah may be sure to have for seven days the -object of his wishes. Passing about a mile to the north of the convent, -through gardens, we came to the Kent of Kharjdeh, another place of -pilgrimage, which was covered with a cupola by Khodabende Sháh; in -seven hours more, to the caravánseraï of Kúzlí, a great Khán, the -foundation of Sháh Ismaíl; further on, to the station of six trees, a -great caravánseraï with a ruined Kent, on the frontier of Derbend; and -then to the pilgrimage of Khizrzende, who lies beneath a cupola in good -preservation. Uzdemir-oghlí Pásha who came here hunting, built this -cupola because he had great faith in the Saint. Still further northward -in the district of Musekker, on the frontier of Shaburán, is the place -Regál. - -There is a Regál, a small Kent, near Shamákhí, but this has a mosque, -a khán, a bath with gardens, and three thousand houses with terraces; -it belonged formerly to Derbend and is now a dependence of Bakú, the -inhabitants are for the most parts Turcomans, Kaitáks and natives of -the towns of Dághistán, Enderí, Tarkhú, Koúk, and Thálibserán; they -are not duellists, though many exist in these parts. We halted on -the border of the river Regál, and afterwards continued our journey -through the fields; all at once we saw a great troop coming from the -Black Sea, which as we approached proved to be the troops of seven -great Persian Kháns, viz. Eriván, Genje, Lor, Bakú, Kílán, Moghán, and -many Sultáns, all in state dresses, with more than ten thousand men -of Turcomans, Moghols, Kalmúks, Kodeks, Valács, and Cossacks, with a -variety of dresses and arms, sounding trumpets of Efrasiáb, beating -drums and kettle drums, and playing Persian tunes in a style beyond -all description. The Khán of Eriván leaving the troops and advancing -to meet us, the Khán of Shamákhí acquainted me with it. He saluted me -first, and then the Kháns of Kílán and Bakú, and we continued improving -our acquaintance till we arrived at the town of Bakú. So many salutes -were fired from the walls and towers of Bakú that it seemed like a -salamander in the fire of Nimrod’s pile. We met with Envoys who had -arrived from the Russian towns of Astrakan, Heshdek and Terek, to -compliment the Khán with presents on his feast; thus we entered the -Castle of Bakú on Friday the first Moharrem of the year 1057 (1647). - - -_Description of the fortress of Bakú._ - -After a grand repast we delivered the letter of Defterdár-zádeh -Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, our gracious Lord, with the -presents consisting of beads of pearls, Irák stuffs, and a fine sword. -I also delivered the letters of the Kháns of Tabríz and Nakhshiván, -complimenting him on the feast of his wedding; the Khán entertained me -as a guest in his sister’s palace, the festival lasted ten days and -nights, during which he praised the presents he had received through -me, in the presence of all the Kháns and Sultáns; he then presented me -with a Persian dress, ten tománs of Abbássí, and ten tománs of Bisití; -after which, with my companions, I went to view the town. - -The castle of Bakú is built on a hill and is of a square form; the -gate looking to the west is of iron from Nakhshiván, the circumference -is seven hundred paces, it has seventy towers, and six hundred -battlements, the height of the wall is forty royal cubits; being -situated on a rock, there is no necessity for a ditch. Within the -castle are seventy houses with terraces, a mosque of Hyder Sháh, but -without a minareh. In the castle is no khán, bath or market, but on -the shore of the Caspian Sea the suburb (Robát) consists of a thousand -houses with gardens, mosques and kháns, surrounded with walls on -three sides; there are three gates, the gate of Guílán to the north; -the gate of Derbend to the south; and westward towards the sea-shore -is the harbour-gate. Seven minarehs of as many mosques are to be -seen, the names of which I am ignorant of, and three baths, the most -brilliant of which is that of Mirza Khán. This place being a frontier -fortress opposed to Russia is garrisoned with excellent troops called -Sháhseven and Dizchoken (who love the Sháh and bend their knees before -him.) It is the seat of a Khán in the province of Shirván, ruled by -twelve magistrates. The Russian Cossacks have several times pillaged -the town of Bakú, and the province of Guílán; they besieged it at the -instigation of the Persians soon after its conquest by Uzdemír-oghlí -Osmán Páshá, when Kobád Páshá was governor, but were all cut down, and -their bones are yet piled up on the shore. The climate is mild and -favourable to the cultivation of rice and cotton; the water all smells -of Naphtha which is found in seven mines near the town, of different -colours, yellow, red and black. The inhabitants of the districts of -Musekker, Sedán, and Ríneb do not use oil or grease, but all burn -black Naphtha. The people are sound and stout, and some of them fine -figures; they are for the most part Sunnís. The distance between this -town and Derbend is four days journey, peopled by wandering Turcomans. -Three journies east of Bakú is the town of Shabúrán, and Shamákhí is -five journies to the east; the port of Shamákhí is much frequented by -Chinese, and Tartars, Kalmúks and Russians, who bring different wares, -in exchange for which they take salt, naphtha, safian, and silk. Round -the town are many places, where if a portion of earth is dug up fire -bursts forth, which is used by the Caraváns in cooking their victuals. -Near the town to the north flows the Kúr, which is sometimes navigated -by Cossack and Russian pirates, who ravage the Persian provinces, and -sell their prisoners privately in the markets of Guílán. It is a great -river like the Danube, broad but not deep. I remained some days at -Bakú to witness the festival at the wedding of the sister of the Khán -of Eriván, who was married to the Khán of Bakú. If I were to describe -minutely all that took place at this festival it would more than fill -a large book. During a fortnight’s stay I received many valuable -presents, from the Khán and others, viz. rich cloth, seven horses, -three Georgian slaves, a Persian sable pelisse, two camels, ambergris, -&c. ten tománs of Abbássí for the expenses of the journey, and as much -to be distributed amongst my servants. We took leave of our friends, -and the Khán himself, out of friendship, accompanied us when we left -the town. - - -_Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia._ - -We passed to the south over a dreary tract along the sea, where we -saw mines of Naphtha in seven places; it boils up from the earth on -the seashore, and in the district of Musekker in hot springs, on the -surface of which it collects. It is a Royal lease, let for seven -thousand tománs of aspers per year. The men belonging to the inspector -of the Naphtha collect it from the surface of the springs and small -lakes, fill jacks of goatskin with it and sell it to the merchants; the -yellow is the most esteemed; the black Naphtha is carried as a Royal -revenue to the fortresses, and used to light the walls on dark nights, -and to be thrown on the besiegers. It is also used by the Mihmándárs -for torches; all the torches at the Court of the Sháh and at their -great houses are made of Naphtha of Bakú; if it catches fire it burns -to the last drop; to prevent, therefore, the destruction of the mines, -heaps of earth are piled up near them, and if one of them should be -ignited by a spark, all the people flock together and throw earth upon -it to quench the fire. There are also mines of Naphtha in other places, -which, however, I did not see. We advanced to the south, and halted in -the district of Musker, beneath tents of felt belonging to Turcomans, -who with Moghols and Kúmúks pass the winter here; it is a fertile tract -of country. - - -_Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant._ - -A whale had been driven on shore, one hundred yards long, with two -heads, one at the tail end, the other of the size of a cupola. In the -upper jaw it had one hundred and fifty teeth, each a yard long, ears -like an elephant, and eyes of the size of a round table, and covered -with beaver’s hair. The inhabitants of Bakú, Derbend and Shamákhí -flocked together to see it. Khoja Sarúkhán, a voyager in the Caspian -Sea, told me that this kind of whale was common in that sea; there are -certainly many strange creatures and animals in that sea which are not -to be found elsewhere; the shore is covered with bones and carcasses -of strange kinds with square and pentagon heads, and an immense number -of extraordinary fish. According to the reports of sailors, the -circumference of the Caspian Sea is twenty-four thousand miles; it -has no islands like the Black Sea and White Sea, wherein two thousand -and forty islands are reckoned, forty of which are great ones, like -Cyprus, Creta, Rodos, &c. with large towns and rivers. The conflict of -the waves of the Caspian Sea is stronger than those of the Black Sea; -it is bounded on the west by the Russian provinces; and on the east -by the country of the Uzbegs, Kalmúks, and Cossacks. In winter-time -the Kalmúk Tátárs pass over the ice of lakes and rivers which are -frozen for the space of seven months, committing depredations in the -Russian provinces, and carrying a great number of prisoners away. On -the western side its extremity is at Derbend, and south to it, in the -district of the Avárs, which is comprehended by a gulf on the frontier -of Dághistán, is the castle of Terek on the river of the same name. Its -length from north to south is four thousand miles, and its depth three -hundred cubits; thousands of boats and vessels carry on trade, but they -are all afraid of Russian Chaiks, with whom they fight; the vessels -are not large ships like those of the White, Black and Red Sea, but -small boats of reeds with small guns; there are no men of war or great -Caravellas like those of the White Sea, which are necessary to meet the -vessels of the Franks in the Archipelago and Mediterranean; such great -means of defence are not required on the Caspian, as there are only -Cossack boats to be met with. - -We continued our journey eastwards through plain fields, and arrived -at the great town of Shabúrán, an elegant yet ancient town, which was -first built by Isfendiár, and ruined by Húlagú. Uzdemír-oghli Osmán -Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III., took possession of this town after -the conquest of Derbend, and it became the seat of a sanjak Beg. In -the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad IV. the Persians became -masters of it again, and it is now the seat of a Sultán which is the -same as a sanjak Beg in Turkey, it is a well inhabited town, with -seventy mosques, the largest of which are the mosques of Uzún Hassan, -of Tokmák Khán and of Ashár Khán. The fountains and china work, with -which the mosque of Uzún Hassan is inlaid, are no where found in such -profusion. Uzdemir-oghlí used to come every Friday with a great train -from Derbend, in order to perform his prayers here; it is adorned with -so many arabesques and carvings in marble, that the greatest architects -are astonished on beholding it. The town is situated in a valley rich -in bowers, roses, flowers and fruits. Its districts are seven, named -after the seven planets. We continued our journey to the south in the -district of Musker, and reached the station of Kent Charkhí on a wide -plain at a great distance from the Sea. It is the khass of Shah Mikhál, -the Prince of Dághistán, with five hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, -a caravánseraï, and a market-place. The inhabitants are for the most -part Kúmúks of Dághistán. We travelled further on to the south, leaving -Regál on our left, and arrived at last in the district of Musker at the -capital of it, the pass of Alexander, the strong fortress of Derbend. - - -_Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates._ - -It is generally known that Alexander having designed to build the dike -of Gog and Magog, when he arrived at this place, thought of executing a -project for uniting the Caspian with the Black Sea, by means of a canal -which was to join the Caspian Sea with the Phasus; but being advised by -his Vezírs of the danger of this union, as the Black Sea was a great -deal lower than the Caspian, he left it unexecuted, and built three -immense walls with three ditches as a stronghold between the Black and -Caspian Seas, and as a line of defence against the Bení Assfar Sala’at, -Rús, and the people of Crimea and Kipchák. These triple walls, on Mount -Caucasus in the mountains of Irák Dadián, with triple ditches, I, -poor Evliyá, saw, and which all those who travel from Crimea into the -country of the Kúmúks also see; by the lapse of time some of the towers -are in ruins and the ditches choked up with earth. The author of the -History of Tophet pretends that the Caspian Sea issues by subterraneous -canals cut by Alexander into the Phasus, but this is an evident -blunder, as I can most positively assert, because when I saw the Phasus -on my journey to the siege of Assov, I found its water clear and fresh, -while that of the Caspian Sea is so salt and bitter, that it burns a -man’s skin if used for purification. This is a case for applying the -Persian proverb; “Where is hearing, and where is seeing?” - -We have already mentioned in our journey to Trebisonde, that Alexander -built a strong castle on the shores of the Black Sea at the mouth of -the Phasus, and on the shores of the Caspian he built this gate of -gates or iron gate. - - -_Size and figure of the Castle._ - -Yezíb Ben Abd-ul-Melek, the son of Atika, the daughter of Moavia, took -this place from the Khavarej, and the whole district of Dághistán -was then ennobled with the glory of Islám. In the year 986 (1578) -Uzdemir-oghlí the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. appearing with a great -army before its walls, the Sunnís who were inside bound Jírágh -Khalífeh, the Sháh’s commander, cut off his head, and surrendered -the fortress to the Ottoman general, who was appointed by the Porte, -Governor General of Shirván. He repaired the castle and made subject -to it seventy surrounding villages. One thousand janissaries, four -regiments of Sipahís, ten of armourers, ten of gunners, sixty cannons, -five hundred boxes of ammunition and fifteen hundred militia of Eriván -completed its means of defence. Communications were opened with the -Tátárs of Crimea and Kipchák, with the garrisons of Akhichka, Genje, -Tiflís, and Shamákhí, and the town was in a highly flourishing state, -till in the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad IV. the troops -rebelled and surrendered the fortress to the Sháh of Persia, in whose -hands at the present time it is in a most prosperous condition. It is -the seat of a khán and judge and twelve public officers, garrisoned by -nineteen hundred good troops. I occupied a place here on the bulwark -of Kainák khán, and was extremely well treated by the khán who gave me -five tománs for the expenses of my journey. - - -_Description of the Iron Gate._ - -Alexander closed this passage with an iron gate, which remained up to -the time of Núshirván by whom it was renewed. Jezdejerd Sháh, Ismail -Sháh and Uzdemír Páshá repaired the castle situated at the foot of -mount Arghan and Deneb. The foundations of the western walls are washed -by the Caspian Sea. The walls were built by Herzsháh, as is recorded -by the Persian chronostick on the gate of the harbour. The remains of -the wall of Alexander also, which was a broad thick wall, are still -to be seen projecting from the Sea. If the government would undertake -it, it would be easy to extend the harbour from these walls up to the -fortress. The length of the wall from the sea to the high mountain is -an arrow’s shot, and the breadth of the castle itself is the same. It -is built in a pentagon form on a high hill, the strongest I ever saw -during my travels; the intelligent architect distributed it into three -parts, one of which looks eastward to mount Safah; the second gate is -the entrance to the town. In the wall which looks to Mount Arghan are -also two gates, and two others leading to the lower town; the first -is called Meskúr because it opens towards the district of that name, -persons leaving this gate in waggons, may arrive at Shamákhí in three -days. Another gate leads towards Kipchák, Crimea and Circassia. In -Dághistán, waggons with horses cannot travel, but the roads to Terek, -Kazán and Desht Kipchák are all practicable for those vehicles. The -third division of the fortress looks towards the sea; it is not so -well inhabited as the other two, as the barracks for the garrison are -the only buildings. The waggons of the merchants who come from Kílán -and Bakú with goods are all put in array in this castle; the circuit -of the whole fortress is eleven thousand paces, it has seventy towers, -at each of which is a college and a mosque. The students are allowed -Naphtha instead of candles, and are fed twice a day. In this way they -have contrived to interest the Ulemás in watching the castle; there -are besides these seventy towers, seven thousand and sixty battlements -round the fortress; on dark nights the whole fortress is illuminated -with Naphtha, which is a most necessary precaution, as the castle is -continually threatened by no less than thirteen mortal enemies, the -worst of whom are the Cossacks, who come in boats and ravage all these -districts; they cannot, however, come near the border of the castle on -account of seventy large cannons, which defend the avenue, and whose -brilliancy dazzles the eyes of all the beholders. The other powerful -enemies are the Tátárs, Kalmúks and the Ottománs on the west side; the -Circassians on the south side; and the worst of all enemies, the Kúmúks -of Dághistán on the south-east or Kiblah side; to the east is the -inimical district of Georgia belonging to Tamaras khán: for this reason -the men of the garrison pass the whole night on the walls crying Khoda -Khob (all’s well!) There is also a post of fifty watchmen (Túlúngí) -stationed on mount Deneb at a great distance from the town; if an enemy -appears anywhere his arrival is made known to the town by fires lighted -on the top of this mountain. - - -_Buildings within the Castle._ - -The stones of the wall are each of the size of an elephant, but cut -square, and are so large that fifty men at the present day, could not -lift one of them. In the castle are two hundred well terraced houses; -close to the southern wall is a large palace, the architectural -ornaments of which are not to be found in any other palace in Persia; -near to it is a great mosque with a ruined minareh, and a bath built in -the Ottoman style, and a fountain. Near the gate of boats opening to -the east, is the mosque of Uzdemir-zadeh Osmán Páshá, with some kháns -and shops. The suburb outside the castle consists of about a thousand -houses, with no imáret, but kháns, mosques and baths. The people get -their living by cultivating silk, they are Sunnís and Shafiís, rich -men, and fine youths. On the opposite side of the Caspian Sea are the -Russian provinces of Heshdek and Kazán; and further on Kipchák and -Heihát, where twenty years ago Taissi Sháh, Moyunják Khán, and Kúba -Kalmákh Khán with fifty or sixty thousand men wandering about in the -steppes, pushed their inroads up to the bank of the Kemúklí river and -there killed Gúrgí Mustafa Páshá; these Kalmúks are all Infidels, who -have no idea of religion and faith, but are a careless slavish set -of people, some of whom now begin to come with Russian merchants to -the harbour of Derbend, which is frequented by Chinese, Tátárs, and -Russians in great numbers. - -When it was governed by the Ottomans its annual revenue was two hundred -and forty-seven thousand aspers, besides the revenues of the seven -Sultáns or sanjak Begs, and the annual sums given to the Prince of -Dághistán for the preservation of peace. This is according to the -description of Zál Mohammed, made after the conquest of Uzdemir-oghlí -Osmán Páshá. The province of Shirván at present consists of seventy -jurisdictions, seven khánliks, and twelve Sultánliks. May God bring it -back to the possession of the Ottomans! - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -Yezíd Ben Abd-ul-Melek, son of Atika the daughter of Moavia, came from -Damascus with a great army to make war against the heretic rebels -(Khavarej); seven hundred moslim martyrs, who were killed on that -occasion, are buried outside the western wall at a mile’s distance. -Another army came in the time of Heshám Ben Abd-ul-Melek, which -conquered the provinces of Dághistán, Kúmúk, Thábserán, Kaiták, and -Derbend. The martyrs who fell on this occasion were also buried in this -cemetery; their names are written on the tombs in Cufic characters and -in Thúlúth writing; the inhabitants of Derbend boast that amongst this -crowd of martyrs seventy-five doctors of true tradition are buried. -Amongst these tombs some are to be seen with inscriptions in Jellí -(great Neskhí) of Ottomans, giving an account of their lives and deaths. - - -_The Pilgrimage of the Forty._ - -There are forty tombs much frequented by visitors. The tomb of -Derekhorkhot, a great Saint, in whom the people of Shirván had great -faith. Several thousand great Saints are buried here, but I visited and -made myself acquainted with those only that I have mentioned. God’s -mercy upon them all! After having seen all the curiosities of this town -I received from the Khán a horse of the race (Kádhibeg,) and a trotting -horse (Chapár), ten pieces of cotton stuff of Guzerát, and two hundred -guards to accompany me on the journey; I took leave of all my friends -the Kháns and Sultáns, and set out on my journey to Gúrjistán, or -Georgia. - - - - -JOURNEY TO GEORGIA. - - -After a march of sixteen hours to the south-east through woods, we -arrived at the place called Kúr, of a thousand fine houses and a -mosque, on the frontier of Dághistán, not far distant from Táyeserán, -the residence of Mikhál Sháh, Prince of Dághistán. Every Friday people -flock here together to buy and sell, not for money, but by exchange. -There are ten thousand inhabitants, all Sunnís and Sháfiítes. I saw -no women at all here; the women of Dághistán are not allowed to leave -the house, excepting on a journey to Mecca, or to be carried to the -cemetery after death. The men are hospitable. We left this place, -passed a ruined castle in the midst of woods, and then entered the -great district of the Avárs: it is a district belonging to the khass of -the Prince of Dághistán, and during three days journey we saw seventy -great kents with mosques and kháns. - - -_Description of the Castle Serír-ul-allán._ - -This ancient town was built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; it was -wrested from the hands of the Princes of Dághistán by the Persian Sháh -Kor Khodabende, and fell into those of the Ottomans, who destroyed -the castle that it might not be used as a defence against them; it is -now a large ancient town situated on the border of Mount Caucasus, -belonging to the government of Aresh. According to fabulous history it -was in this town that Solomon set up his throne, which had been carried -through the air by Genii, when he came with Balkis and an immense army -to view Mount Caucasus; this is why it was called the throne of Lán, -a Persian word signifying both a nest, and one who walks or travels. -It is situated between the towns of the gate of gates, Shamákhí, -and Niázabád, but is not much cultivated as it is on the extremity -of the frontier, its gardens are few on account of the coldness of -the climate; there are three thousand houses with terraces, and some -mosques not much frequented, seven baths, eleven caravánseraïs, and -seventy shops: as we remained here but one night, it was impossible to -see much of it. It is the seat of a Khán, Judge, Kelenter, Darogha, -and Munshí, and has a garrison of a thousand men; there are a great -number of Sunnís, who get their living by cleaning cotton. The waters -which give life to the plantations of cotton, all issue from the west -side of Mount Caucasus, and fall into the Kúr. We marched for some -hours towards the Kiblah, to the district of Khata a dependence of the -Princes of Dághistán, a woody tract comprising three hundred kents, -with mosques, kháns, and gardens. We remained here for three days as -guests, and continued our journey on the fourth to the district of -Zákhor, consisting of a hundred and fifty villages and large kents, -governed by Yússúf one of the Princes of Dághistán, who commands seven -thousand brave warlike men; the Beg, with whom we spent a night, -presented me with fifty skins of wild cats, and I gave him three -handkerchiefs embroidered by Sultána Kia. - - -_Tomb of Emír Sultán._ - -He was a great Saint. The Divines of this country, all learned Doctors, -have no enmity amongst themselves, but they shun all communication with -the Reváfes (heretic Persians). Here ends Dághistán, and the province -of Georgia begins. - -The frontier castle Ur belongs to the Persians; we passed it on our -left, and skirted the boundaries of the castle of Shekí, which I -formerly saw on my way to Shamákhí, and arrived at the kent of Zakhorie -on the frontier of Tamarass-khán, belonging to the Khán of Tiflís; the -inhabitants are all Georgians, Armenians, and Gokdúlák. - - -_Description of the Old Town of Kákht._ - -This town is situated on the frontier of Georgia and now governed by -the Persians. It was built by Núshirván to keep the tribes of the -Caucasus in order. It is a pentagon castle, fourteen thousand large -paces in circumference, with one hundred and seventy bulwarks, three -gates, two thousand houses within the castle, a mosque, a bath, and a -khán. Its waters, so many springs of life, issue from the west side -of Mount Caucasus, and after irrigating the gardens fall into the Kúr -to the eastward. The climate being rather cold, its silk is not much -praised. The inhabitants are Georgians, Armenians and Gokdúlák; the -Sultán commands a thousand soldiers, all Shiís, and there are twelve -civil commanders and a judge. Sháh Ismail liked its climate so much -that he remained here three years before the battle of Cháldirán, and -built a suburb outside of it, so that it bears much likeness to the -town of Kaschau in the middle of Hungary. After the loss of the battle -of Cháldirán, the Ottoman flying troops arriving at this town destroyed -it, and since that time many thousand loads of stones have been carried -away by Ferhád Páshá for the repairs of the Castle of Aras. The Sultán -of this place accompanied me, out of kindness, to the next station, and -we passed the night in Khodraí, a kent of a thousand houses, with a -mosque, khán and bath, on the frontier of Tiflís. - - -_Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz. Betlís._ - -According to the author of the Sheref-námeh, this town was first built -by Betlís the Treasurer of Alexander, who also built the castle of -the same name in the province of Ván; its name is now Tiflís, which -for a long time was a great Persian government, till in the time of -Sultán Murad III. Lala Kara Ferhád Páshá with an immense army undertook -the conquest of Georgia, and conquered Chaldír and seventy castles. -Daúd Khán, who was then governor of Tiflís, garrisoned it with forty -thousand men, and fortified it in all possible ways. On the other side -the Ottoman commander summoned the town to surrender to his Emperor; -at an assembly held on this occasion it was advised to send back the -bearer of the summons, and to put themselves into a state of defence, -but the more prudent foreseeing that they would not be able to make -resistance, they all fled away one night, and left the Castle without -defence. The Ottoman commander pursued them with the greatest speed, -and came up with the Khán of Tiflís at the Castle of Zekúm, where -he had entrenched himself with all the treasures carried away from -his capital. A great battle ensued, in which no quarter was given by -the Ottoman victors, and forty thousand Persians were cut to pieces. -The booty taken by the Ottoman army was immense; the Aghá of the -janissaries with seven regiments of his corps was sent to garrison -Tiflís, and the castle of Zekúm was taken in the year 956 (1578). A -few days after, the Castle of Kerím also fell. I have not seen the -Castle of Zekúm, but I saw that of Kerím without entering it, when -passing through the plain of Kákht. Lala Ferhád pursued his victory -as though he had been on a hunting party; he took twenty-six great -and small castles, some of which he destroyed, and some he repaired, -placing a Dizdár in each, and made his entry into Tiflís amidst the -greatest demonstrations of public joy. He fortified this castle to -such an extent, that no fortress of Georgia or Azerbeiján is equal -to it, except that of Bakú and Megú. The province was given with the -rank of a Begler Beg to Mohammed Páshá the son of Ferhád Páshá, then -in possession of the sanjak of Kastemúní; its works were repaired, -and its stores completed. He sent the keys of no less than seventy -large and small castles to the Ottoman Court and then returned himself -to Constantinople. After his departure the Persians besieged the -town of Tiflís for the space of seven months. The garrison being in -the greatest distress for food, eat their dogs first, and then the -dead; the famine was so great that the dog belonging to the Súbashí -Alí sold for seven thousand aspers. At last the governor of Erzerúm, -Mustafa Páshá, arrived with a flying troop, put the Persian General to -flight and relieved the garrison. Hassan Páshá the son of the Grand -Vezír arrived with a caraván, bringing three thousand camel loads of -provisions, which were placed in the Magazines of the small castle. -In short, this fortress remained in the hands of the Ottomans from -the time of Sultán Murad III. till that of Sultán Mustafa, when the -Persians united with the Georgians took the castle by surprise, and -gave it up to the Sháh; and it has remained ever since in the hands of -the Persians. It is the capital of Georgia, to which belongs sixteen -Sultáns, seventy judges, forty districts and seven tracts called Oimák. -Three-tenths of Georgia are occupied by the province of Tiflís; the -khán commands two thousand soldiers, it has also a judge and twelve -public officers in honour of the twelve Imáms. - - -_Size and Figure of the Fortress._ - -It consists of two castles opposite to each other on the banks of -the Kúr which separates the rocks on which they stand, and which are -connected above by a bridge leading from one castle to the other. -The great castle is on the south side of the Kúr and the small one -on the north of it. This river rises in the mountains of Chaldir, -passes Erdehán, Akhiska, and Azgúra and flows into the Caspian Sea; -the Persian historiographers say, that its waters are supplied from a -thousand and sixty sources; it is the largest river in these countries -next to the Euphrates. The circumference of the largest castle is six -thousand paces, the wall sixty cubits high, with seventy bulwarks, -and three thousand battlements, but no ditch; the water-tower which -supplies water to the garrison in time of siege is situated on the Kúr. -In the castle are six hundred houses, terraced, some with and some -without gardens, the palace of the Khán, a mosque and a bath. The small -castle was built by Yezdejerd Sháh, it is of stone, in a square form -with only one gate at the head of the bridge, and has no Bezestán or -Imáret. - -Three thousand watchmen light fires every night, and continually -cry Khoda Khob (all’s well.) Though it is a Persian town, yet its -inhabitants are for the most part Sunnís and Hanefis from the time of -the Ottomans. - - -_Products._ - -The white bread of Tiflís, and the peaches are renowned; the vegetables -exquisite; there is no silk, but most excellent grapes: all these -productions prosper through the quantity of rain water which falls, and -do not require water from the Kúr, this is the case with an hundred and -fifty towns and villages, which it passes on its way. - - -_The Hotbath of Tiflís._ - -On the east side of the large castle a hot-spring boils out of the -ground without the assistance of fire; sheep’s heads and feet are -cooked therein. There are also several pilgrimages at Tiflís, as those -of Imám Hossein Efendí, Rizwán Agha, Jem Alí Efendí, &c. Tiflís -is five hours distance from Kiákht, from the Castle of Aras, four -journies, and the same from that of Genje. We took from the khán two -hundred men to accompany us, and received three tománs for the expenses -of the journey. - - -_Description of the Castle Kúsekht._ - -It stands on a chalk cliff, is of a square form, and belongs to the -district of Tiflís. The castle Lorí near Tiflís was seen on our right -side in the mountains, but we passed it at a great distance. - - -_Description of Súrán._ - -Though a small castle on a hill, yet it is extremely strong and high: -it is one of the oldest castles of Georgia built by Núshirván. Its -inhabitants are Georgians, Gokdúlák and Armenians. We proceeded four -hours to the west, and reached the old town Azgúr: according to the -author of the Sheref-námeh, it is the oldest town in Georgia, and -was built by Alexander. In the Georgian language Azgúr signifies the -King of Kings. The immense blocks of stone used in the formation of -the walls, show that it must have been built by Alexander, because -five hundred men of the present age would not be able to move one -of them; it stands on a high hill, and is of a square form; it has -one gate opening to the south, a mosque, a bath, a khán, and forty -small streets; the gardens are beautiful owing to the mildness of the -climate; the river which passes below it, issues from the mountains of -Akhiska through which it passes, and waters the gardens of the town, -falling into the Araxes. This town being on the frontier of Gurgistán -Shúshád, the inhabitants all speak Georgian. - - -_Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language._ - -One, _árí_; two, _úrí_; three, _sám_; four, _otkhí_; five, _khotí_; -six, _egsí_; seven, _shudi_; eight, _revaí_; nine, _khújraí_; ten, -_atí_; bread, _púrí_; water, _chígál_; meat, _kharj_; wine, _ghita_; -cherries, _bák_; pears, _bishál_; figs, _lefi_; grapes, _kúrzení_; -hazel-nuts, _inikhlí_; melon, _nesú_; &c. - - -_Genealogy of the Georgian Kings._ - -Their first kings were Jews, then Dadiáns and Shúshád, from whom -originated the people of Gúriel, Achikbásh, and Mingrelia, who are all -Christians. They speak twelve different languages, and only understand -each other by the aid of interpreters. The purest language, according -to their opinion, is that of the Shúshád and Dadián. If the dynasty -of the Moscovites should be extinguished, the Princes of Georgia -would succeed. The Aiza and Cherkessians who are an Arabic colony, -have no books at all; according to the histories of their priests they -descended from Keikavús, and then from David. - -There was formerly here a Queen who pretended to reign unmarried; one -night having drank with some young men, she was violated by one of -them, and got with child, which happened to be a girl. To get rid of -the ravisher, the Queen sent him fowl-hunting on a frozen canal, when -the ice broke, and the man was swallowed up, so that all talk about the -matter was at an end. The daughter married a Prince named Begdiván, -and had three sons, who when of age, divided Georgia into three parts. -The first Prince obtained the district of Cotatis otherwise called -Básh Achik, and its inhabitants derive their descent from him. To -the second, Simon, was allotted the district of Tiflís; and to the -youngest, the province of Bághat; from the latter, the Dadiáns derive -their lineage. This Dadián Prince was a just monarch, and even now the -whole of Georgia pay homage to the Princes of Achikbásh and Dadián. -When Sultán Selím I. was Governor of Trebisonde, he lived on good -terms with the Beg of Achikbásh, and spent some time in the castle of -Cotatis, and when he ascended the throne after Bayazíd II. he exempted -by a Khattí-sheríf, the inhabitants of Achikbásh from all gifts and -duties, a privilege they enjoy up to the present day; since that time -it has only been the custom to send annually falcons and fine youths as -presents to the Porte. We left the castle of Azgúr, and going westward -through woods and fields, we arrived all well at Chaldirán and Akhaskha. - - -_Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultan Selím’s conquest._ - -This strong fortress of Akhaska is also spelled Akhachka, Akhjaska, -Okhaskha, and Oksakha, according to the difference of the languages -of the surrounding people. In the Imperial register it is laid down -by the name of Chaldir. The builder was Núshirván, the great Persian -monarch who built the Ták Kesra. He used to spend six months of the -summer here, on account of its climate. It would be too long to relate -all the changes that this place underwent under different kings. The -first moslim conqueror of it was Heshám Ibn Abd-ul-Melek, of the family -of the Ommiades, who, proceeding from Syria with an immense army, -conquered Aintáb, Mera’ash, Malátia, Haleb, Diarbekr, Erzerúm, and -this castle of Akhaska, which then became the Capital of Georgia. He -also conquered Genje, Shirván, and Derbend, and returned to Damascus. -Kara Yússúf, the Prince of the dynasty of the Kara Koyúnlí, not being -able to resist the arms of Timúr, fled to Bayazíd I. for assistance, -and Sultán Uzún Hassan became the possessor of the castle of Akhaska. -Paying homage to Timúr he was put in the number of eleven tributary -princes, that marched by the side of Timúr’s horse, who conferred upon -him, the province of Azerbeiján. It afterwards came into the power -of Sháh Ismail of the Safí family, who chose Akhaska for his summer -quarters and subdued the whole of Georgia. He ravaged the Ottoman -provinces, and pushed his incursions up to Sivás, the granary of the -Ottoman capital. Selím I. was then governor of Trebisonde, and many -times pursued the Persian troops. Having himself ascended the throne, -he immediately began the Holy war, and fought the famous battle on -the plain of Chaldir, which cost the lives of one hundred thousand -Persians, and nearly that of Sháh Ismail, who had a narrow escape. He -then conquered the castle Akhaska, and subdued the whole of Georgia. -A survey of it was commanded, and it was assigned as a government to -a Páshá of three tails. As this town is the frontier of Gúrjistán -(Georgia), Turkistán, and Kurdistán, in immediate contact with Persia, -it was declared a separate Eyálet or government, of which the following -is the description in the Kanún-námeh of Sultán Súleimán. The sanjak -of Chaldir consists of thirteen sanjaks, the officers are a public -treasurer of the timárs (Timár Defterdárí); an inspector of the rolls -(Defter Emíní); a kiaya, an inspector and a secretary of the Chaúshes, -(Chaúshlar kiayassí, Emíní, and Kiátibí). The sanjaks are as follow: -(1) Oltí; (2) Khortíz; (3) Ardíkh; (4) Khajrek; (5) Erdehán; (6) -Postkhú; (7) Mákhchíl; (8) Achárpeník; (9) Akhachka, the seat of the -Páshá. There are also four hereditary sanjaks Yordlik, or Ojáklik, viz. -Portekrek, Lesána, Nussf Levána, and Shúshád; making in all thirteen. - - -_Khass or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs._ - -Khass of the Beg of Oltí, two hundred thousand and seventeen aspers; -Portek, forty-six thousand two hundred and nineteen; Ardenj, two -hundred and eighty thousand; Erdehán, three hundred thousand; -Shúshád, six hundred and fifty six thousand; Lesána, three hundred -and sixty-five thousand; Khartíz, two hundred thousand five hundred; -Khajrek, three hundred and sixty-five thousand; Postkhú, two hundred -and six thousand five hundred; Makhjíl, twenty thousand three hundred -and eleven; Ajára, two hundred thousand; Penek, four hundred thousand. - - -_Number of Ziámets and Timárs._ - -The ziámets and timárs are altogether six hundred and fifty-six swords, -which with the Jebellis form eight hundred men; and with the troops of -the Páshá fifteen hundred troops. In the sanjak Oltí, three ziámets, -a hundred and thirteen timárs; Erdehán, eight ziámets, eighty-seven -timárs; Ardíkh, four ziámets, forty-two timárs; Khajrek, two ziamets, -seventy-two timárs; Khartíz, thirteen ziámets, thirty-five timárs; -Postkhú, twelve ziámets, twenty-eight timárs; Penek, eight ziámets, -fifty-four timárs; Sászín, seven ziámets, thirty-two timárs; Khatla, -nineteen ziámets, seven timárs; Isper, four ziámets, fourteen timárs. -These feudal troops are commanded by their Yúzbashí (Lieutenants), -Cheribashí (Captains), and Alaï-Beg (Colonels). They possess a thousand -and sixty villages on condition of going to war when called upon, the -annual revenue of which amounts to three hundred and twenty Ottoman -purses. In the time of Selím I. the Páshá of this province, commanded -those of Erzerúm, Sivás, Mera’ash, Adana, and Rakka. The place of a -judge with the rank of Molla was given to Ramazán Efendí with five -hundred aspers, now it has a judge with three hundred aspers; he -may however annually collect from the districts belonging to his -jurisdiction, the sum of eighty purses. The Khass of the Begler-beg -amounts to four hundred thousand aspers; the garrison consists of two -thousand men, regular troops, with an Aghá of the janissaries, of the -Jebejí and of the Topjí. In the year 1044 (1634) the Persians became -masters of Chaldirán, but after the conquest of Eriván, Canaan Páshá -was sent by Sultán Murad IV. with an immense army who conquered the -fortress of Akhachka, and put it in a good state of repair, in which it -is kept by the Ottomans, up to the present time. - - -_Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka._ - -It is a square castle built of stone, standing on a chalk cliff, with -two gates and about a thousand houses without gardens covered with -terraces. One of the two gates leads to the east, and the other to -the west, there are twenty-eight mosques. The old mosque in the upper -castle is covered with earth. There is no Imáret (religious foundation) -covered with lead in this fortress. The mosque of Kunbet-oghlí is also -covered with earth, and without a minareh. In the lower castle is the -mosque of Khalíl Aghá. Besides the five legal prayers a day, there are -certain lectures in all these mosques on the Korán and tradition, but -there are no private rooms or establishments for these lectures. The -Muderris (Professors) hold them in the mosques, the students (Thelebe) -are numerous. The suburb outside of the castle is well built, and its -baths pleasant, but the bath inside the castle is very small; the -best is that outside the eastern gate of the castle, the waiters are -fine Georgian boys; there are a great number of kháns; no vineyards -(Bágh), but in some places gardens (Bághje); a large number of gardens -of fruit trees (Mushebek-bostán) full of valuable trees, well watered -by springs. The water of this place comes from the mountains of Uda, -waters the fields of the town, goes straight to the castle of Arghán, -and falls near the Castle of Kúrehkt into the Araxes. The passage -between the castle and the suburb is established by a bridge; the -suburb is not surrounded by walls; the market consists of about three -hundred shops, but no Bezestán of stone. The temperature of this place -being fresh and invigorating its people are strong and brave also; -the Páshá Sefer Páshá, by birth a Georgian, is one of the most wise -and virtuous Vezírs of the Ottoman Court. Eriván is six journeys from -Akhashka to the east, and mid way is the Castle of Karss. From Akhaskha -to Tiflís is five journeys towards the north-east, to Genje five -journeys direct east, and seven journeys to the north is the castle of -Georgia. The fortress of Akhaska is situated between them all in the -plain of Chaldir. - - -_Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir._ - -The castle of Khartíz near Chaldir was conquered in the year 886 -(1481), by Lala Páshá, together with the castle of Adhil, and the -castle of Perkán near Chaldir at a journey’s distance, situated -between two high mountains on a high hill. The castle of Cotatis is -two journies distance from Chaldir, it is the capital of the district -of Ajikbásh near mount Perírat. It is the proper residence of Georgia -otherwise called Shúshád, and Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, -sometimes came hither to divert himself. It was created by him a -hereditary province (Ojáklik), the khass of which amounts to six -thousand and six aspers. There are no ziámets and timárs. The castle -of Khajrek, situated between Akhachka and Erdehán, is the residence -of the Sanjak-Beg of Burdehán, and was conquered by Lala Páshá; the -Khass amounts to three hundred and sixty-five thousand aspers, six -ziámets and twenty-two timárs. The castle of Shatán, which by mistake -is called Sheitán Kala’am, (the Castle of Satan), was conquered by -Ferhád Páshá in the year 990 (1582); it is situated near Chaldir, on -a steep rock. The castle of Kizlar (of the maiden) near Chaldir, on -the border of the river Jágh, is a magic castle. The castle of Altún -(gold), the conquest of Lala Páshá, is three hours distance from -the latter. The castle of Odoria near Chaldir, the conquest of Lala -Páshá. The castle of Al near Akhaska. The castle of Postkhú, which is -the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the province of Akhaska, was conquered -by Lala Páshá in the year 998 (1589); a jurisdiction, the judge of -which is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. There is an Alaï -Beg and Cheríbashí. Shúshádistán is the name of one of the principal -provinces of Georgia, governed by a Begler-beg. Shúshád, the castle, -has no judge. Shúshádistán is a mountainous tract full of precipices. -The castle of Kharbe on the border of a valley, is a steep castle. -The castle of Ardíkh, the seat of a Sanjak-beg in the province of -Chaldir, a conquest of Lala Páshá. The castle of Akhanjí, the seat of -a Sanjak-beg. The castle of Jághirmán near Chaldir, conquered by Lala -Páshá. Besides these castles there are a great number of others seen on -the great road. Georgia is indeed a fine and well cultivated country. -After having seen all this, I took leave of Sefer Páshá, who presented -me with two Georgian boys, a horse, and a hundred piastres; I took an -escort and began my journey westward to Erzerúm. - - -_Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm._ - -We passed the summer quarters of Ulghár, and arrived at the end of four -hours at the castle of Kínava on the frontier of Ardehán; we passed -through a mountainous tract and at last arrived at the Castle of Kara -Ardehán, which was conquered in the time of Selím I. and made the seat -of a Sanjak Beg; the khass is three hundred thousand aspers, eight -ziámets, and eighty-seven timárs; an Alaï Beg, (Colonel); Cheribashí, -(Captain); Dizdár, (Commander of the castle); are the commanding -officers of the garrison, which consists of two hundred men; the whole -contingent in war time including the troops of the Beg amounts to one -thousand men. The judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers. -There is no Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Sheriffs or relations of the -prophet) and its Muftí resides at Akhaska. The castle is built on a -rock, and is five hundred paces in circumference; it is not commanded -by any neighbouring height, it has two hundred and seventy towers, -and three gates. A company of armourers (Jebejí) of the Porte, is in -garrison here. In the town, the family establishment (Khandán) of Kia -Páshá is the most renowned. - - -_Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán._ - -The castle of Wálá, conquered by Lala Páshá 987 (1579); the castle of -Kermek, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castle of -Akhársin, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castles -of Mamerván and Nazarbán, the latter built by Ghází Sefer Páshá in the -year 1053 (1643); the castle Kense Dusál in the district of Erdehán -on a hill; its water flows to Erdehán. The houses all have terraces; -there is no college, but a school for boys. No gardens on account -of the temperature, which is rather cold. Its fruits come from the -castle of Tortúm and Acháras; the inhabitants are all Sunnís, and -live by agriculture. This castle is five journeys to the east of -Erzerúm; and Karss is one journey’s distance from Erzerúm by the way of -Kargha-bazár. We then passed westward sometimes on a stony and woody -ground, sometimes in rich meadows, and arrived at the castle of Gúle. -It was built by Levend-Khán, a Georgian Prince, and is the seat of a -Sanjak Beg, the khass of which is three hundred thousand aspers; it has -a Colonel, Captain, Dizdár and garrison; it is an elegant castle on a -chalk hill. Eight hours further to the west, we reached the castle of -Penek also named after its Georgian builder, it is the seat of a sanjak -Beg subordinate to Chaldir; its khass is four hundred thousand aspers. -Its feudatory militia with the troops of the Beg are a thousand men; -there is a judge with a hundred and fifty aspers, no market nor garden. -The water of the river is very good, its subjects are Armenians, -Gokdulak, and Georgians. Seven hours further is the Castle of Uliní, -built by a Georgian king, and conquered by Sultán Selím; it is the seat -of a Sanjak Beg, whose Khass is two hundred thousand and seventeen -aspers. And has a Colonel, a Captain, a Judge with a hundred and fifty -aspers, a Dizdár, and garrison; the castle stands on a chalk hill with -two gates, one opening to the east, and the other to the west. At the -foot of the castle flows the river Oltí, which waters the gardens of -the town, and enters the Aras on the Kiblah side. The houses are all -inhabited and covered with terraces. There are a number of mosques, a -khán, a bath, garden, and school for boys; its beauties are celebrated. -The inhabitants are good moslims. From hence we travelled direct north, -and came at the end of two hours to the castle of Maverván built by -the Georgian Kings, and conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá; it is -the seat of a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Erzerúm, whose khass amounts -to two hundred and three thousand aspers; the officers are a Colonel -and Captain of the feudal militia. The militia of the Beg amounts to -fifteen hundred men; the judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty -aspers. The castle is of a square form and gigantic size, standing -upon a hill; its gate looks to the Kibláh, there are eight hundred -houses, a mosque, a bath, and a khán, the inhabitants are almost -all poor people. Three hours further on to the west, is the village -Aide Mamerván, a village inhabited by Armenians and Moslims. Further -on among bleak mountains is the village Karakunk, it belongs to the -district of Erzerúm; we passed the straight of Georgia and arrived at -the village of Osmúdúm Sultán, a fine kent of a hundred houses on the -border of a high mountain; it is situated at the very source of the -Euphrates, which issues from a cavern in the mountain of Dúmlí Sultán, -a delightful, refreshing water, which seems to be alluded to in the -Korán by the verse: “I gave thee the Keuther.” Trouts of a cubit’s -length sport in it; their bodies are ruby-coloured and interspersed -with smaragdine spots. Umúdúm Sultán the Saint, who is buried here, -protects these fish, so that it is impossible to catch them; but a -farsang below they are taken by fishermen, and fill the brains of those -who eat them with ambergris; however much a man may eat, he is never -incommoded by them. The Pilgrimage to Rúmlí Sultán is much frequented. -We marched five hours to the south, on the plain of Erzerúm and entered -it, God be thanked! in perfect health. Before I changed my dress, I -laid the letters and presents of the khán of Eriván at the feet of my -gracious Lord the Páshá, and gave him a detailed account of all the -castles, towns, kents and villages, which I had seen on my journey. He -gave me a splendid dress and three hundred piastres bath-money, besides -two purses, which he assigned to me on the extraordinary revenues of -the custom-houses. I had remained scarcely a week, when a message -arrived from the Khán of Eriván complaining that some of the soldiers -of Karss had molested one of his caravans, and requesting that an Aghá -might be sent to convey the caraván safe to Erzerúm. In consequence of -this letter I was sent back into Persia on the tenth day. - - - - -JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR, 1057, (1647). - - -From Erzerúm twelve hours to the east, is the castle of Hassan Kala’a -which has already been described; and further on to the east, through -the plain of Pássin, the village Bádil Jovánlí, an Armenian village. -We passed it, and reached in nine hours the station of Meidánjik; -the inhabitants are all Armenians. Ten hours further is the castle -of Mishingerd in the province of Erzerúm, a square castle on a chalk -cliff; which has a Dizdár and a hundred and fifty men, two hundred -houses, but no market; a mosque of Sultán Súleimán Khán, without a -garden. We passed to the east, through the valley of Khándere, by the -ruined convent called the seven churches, through a narrow straight, -and then to the west by a flowery meadow for six hours to the castle -Bardúz, in the territory of Karss, built by Lady Kerím-ud-din, the -daughter of King Azz-ud-din of the dynasty of the Auk-koyúnlí. The -chronograph is written on the gate; there is a Dizdár and a hundred and -fifty men in garrison, a small bath, but no garden. From hence we went -southward to the castle of Gejkerán built by Núshirván; this is the old -town of Dúdemán Gejkerán which is mentioned in the ancient histories -of the wars of Pízen and Efrasiáb. It was ruined by Holagú at the same -time as Baghdád, but flourished again under the government of Kara -Yússúf Sháh of the family of the Kara Koyúnlí. Timúr again destroyed -it. It was conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá, and now belongs to -the government of Karss, it is a square castle. The karss of the Beg -amounts to fifteen thousand three hundred and fifty aspers. According -to the canon of Sultán Súleimán there are two thousand two hundred men -including the troops of the Beg; a Dizdár, an Aghá of the Azábs and -Gonullí, with three hundred men in garrison, a judge of a hundred and -fifty aspers, twelve hundred houses covered with earth, three small -mosques, and from forty to fifty shops. Eight hours further to the -east we reached the frontier fortress of the Ottomans, the castle of -Karss. There are three towns of that name; one is in Silefka, the -Karss of Karatáshlik; the second, the Karss of Mera’ash, and the last -that of Dúdemán, which is the present one. In the time of Murad III. -it was conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá. The repairing this town -after it was ruined by the Persians, was undertaken by the Ottoman -generals, and on this occasion a large square marble stone was found, -which they placed on the gate looking to the south-east, and which had -the following inscription:—“This Castle was built under Vezír Fírúz -Akaí in the time of Sultán Azz-ud-dín; and repaired by his daughter -Sultana Karím-ud-dín. May God illuminate her tomb!” Lala Páshá who is -the last builder of Karss, placed this stone on the wall, however, -out of reverence for its ancient builders. Lala Páshá repaired it in -seventy days, within which time he completed its munition. A soldier -came to relate to him a dream which he had, and which was as follows. -An old man appeared to him, saying, his name was Abúl Hassan Kharkaní, -that he was buried here, and that if a well at his feet was to be dug, -marvellous things would be seen. Some hundred workmen were instantly -set to dig the well, when they found a red granite tomb, on which was -written “I am the martyr, Saíd Kharkání.” He was found quite fresh, -and the blood yet flowing from his right arm. The tomb was re-covered -amidst prayers, and Lala Páshá raised a convent upon it. The government -of Karss has been given at different times to Vezírs of three tails as -barley-money (Arpalik); the karss is sixty thousand aspers. It belonged -formerly to the government of Erzerúm, but is now a distinct province -with the addition of Pássin. There are seven sanjaks, a Kiaya, and Emín -of the Defter, a Defterdár of the treasury and of the timárs, but no -Kiatib Kiaya and Emín of the Chaúshes, Its sanjaks are; Little Erdehán; -Khojúján; Zárshád; Gejewán; Kaghzmán; Werishán, and Karss the seat of -the Páshá, there are seven ziámets and a hundred and two timárs, with -the Jebellis and troops of the Páshá, three thousand exquisite troops; -a Colonel, a Captain, a judge with three hundred aspers, a Dizdár, -an Aghá of seven companies of Azábs, and an Aghá of the Janissaries, -armourers, and gunners; the Colonels reside for the most part at -Erzerúm: the garrison consists of fifteen hundred excellent men; the -garrisons of Wán, Karss, and Akhachka are decidedly brave men. Their -pay is collected from the produce of the ferry-boats at Bírejik on the -Euphrates, and from the villages Súrúj and Bombúj at Haleb, amounting -annually to seventy thousand aspers. The government of Karss is divided -into ten jurisdictions, and eight districts; there is a Sheikh-ul-Islám -(Muftí); Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Emírs), and other distinguished -men. - - -_Size of the castle of Karss._ - -At a gun-shot distance on the north side is a high mountain, at the -foot of which this fortress rises on a separate hill; the lower castle -is situated in the plain, and has five strong walls. The gate of the -outer or lower castle looks to the east, and that of the inner or -upper castle to the west. There is only the house of the commander, -and barracks for the garrison of two hundred men; no bath, market, or -any remarkable building. The lower town or suburb is surrounded by -two strong walls, and has three iron gates which are adorned with all -kinds of armour. One of these gates on the west is the water-gate, also -called the gate of the troops, looking towards Erzerúm; the second or -middle gate opens to Kaghzmún; the third to the east is the gate of -Behrám-páshá, opening towards Eriván. Watchmen keep watch the whole -night, lighting torches and lamps. The lower castle is surrounded by a -lake instead of a ditch, which encircles it from the middle gate to the -gate of Behrám-páshá, and hence it is impossible to get possession of -the fortress. There are two hundred and twenty strong towers, and two -thousand and eighty battlements; the circumference of the whole is five -thousand seven hundred paces. The buildings consist of three thousand -houses, forty-seven mosques, in eight of which prayer is performed on -Fridays; the most remarkable is that of Sheikh Hassan Kharkání, built -by Lala Páshá; the mosque of Waíz Efendí at the water-gate; the great -mosque of Súleimán Efendí, which was formerly a church; the mosque of -Hossein Kiaya called the red church; the mosque of Omar Efendí, which -was destroyed when the Persians got possession of the castle, solely -on account of being named after Omar, and turned into a stable; the -mosque of Káltákjí-zadeh, at the gate of Behrám-páshá; the mosque of -Beirám Chelebi-zadeh; and on the south side of the town across the -bridge, the mosque of Emír Yússúf Páshá, all covered with terraces. -There are eighteen schools for boys, but no colleges for lectures on -the sciences, which are all held in the mosques. Within the water-gate -is the bath of Emír Yússúf Páshá; within the middle gate is the old -bath. There are no houses for reading of the Korán or tradition, or -for dining the poor, who are, however, well taken care of by private -generosity; there is no stone Bezestán, but two hundred shops in which -Indian and Persian wares are found. No gardens and vineyards on account -of the cold temperature of the climate. The inhabitants are a lively -set of people who gain their living by agriculture and commerce. - -We travelled from Karss twelve hours to the north, passed the village -of Arjúk and the valley of Bághirsak, and the summer quarter (Yaila) -of Olghár twelve hours long. It is three journies from hence to the -castle of Akhiska (otherwise Akhaska, Akhachka). From Karss to Erdehán -is one journey by the way of Korgha-bazár. I arrived at last at the -object of my journey, the castle of Gúle, and on the same day I entered -it, read the letters of our gracious Lord, the Páshá of Erzerúm, to -the Aghás of Gúle, who excused themselves, saying: “that they never -had disturbed the Persian caraván, and that it was a calumny of the -inhabitants of Kaghzemán.” Next day we mounted our horses, proceeded -for a whole day to the south, and arrived at the castle of Kaghzemán. -The towns and castles on the Kiblah side of the Aras are all reckoned -to be on the frontier of Azerbeiján. The river Aras rises on the west -from the mountains of Bíngol (thousand lakes) flows to the east, joins -the barley river (Arpachayí), and the Zenghí. The castle of Kaghzemán -being situated on the Kiblah side of the Aras is reckoned to be on -the frontier of Azerbeiján, but belongs to the Ottoman government -of Karss. It is named after its builder, one of the daughters of -Núshirván. It was taken out of the hands of Uzún Hassan by Sháh Ismail, -and then submitted to Sultán Súleimán. It is the seat of a Sanjak Beg -whose khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nine ziámets, -a hundred and seventy-eight timárs; nine hundred feudal militia, a -judge appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers, and a garrison of -three hundred men, who are paid by the impost on salt; the salt mines, -and a quarry of mill stones, are on the west side of the castle. The -mill-stones of Persia and Rúm come from Kaghzemán; the borax of the -goldsmiths, barbers, whetting-stones, and the common whetting-stones -are extracted from the mines of Kaghzemán; in two places gold and -silver are found, but as the product was exceeded by the expenses, -they were abandoned; there are altogether eleven mines. The castle is -a square strong building standing on a hill on the bank of the Aras, -there are seven hundred small houses; it is not a commercial town -(Bender), but a frontier town (Serhadd). Mount Aghrí which appears to -the west, is one of the most praiseworthy mountains in the world, it is -near the town, and is the summer abode (Yaila) of Turcomans. The air is -temperate and allows of the cultivation of gardens on some spots; the -inhabitants are mild and some of them fair. - -The Levend troops (irregular levies) sing Persian songs with harmonious -voices. As soon as I entered the town, the Diván assembled, and -notwithstanding the repeated oaths of the members of it, that they had -not molested the Persian caravan, but only taken their custom duties, I -took seven Aghás of them with me to prove the truth of what they said, -by their presence at Erzerúm, whereunto I returned. The Beg and eleven -Aghás presented me with a purse of money, two horses (Mahmúdí), and two -Georgian slaves; and we travelled towards the east for nine hours, to -the castle of Moghazberd, it is a district belonging to Karss, built -by Mogház a Persian Khán; it passed into the hands of the Ak-koyúnlí -of Sháh Ismail, and then into those of Sultán Súleimán; the garrison -consists of a hundred and fifty men; the castle is built of stone in a -pentagon form on a rock, not commanded by any neighbouring height; it -has six hundred houses with gardens and vineyards; a mosque, khán, bath -and ten shops; at the foot of this castle flows the river Arpachaí, -which comes from the mountains of Georgia, and mingles with the Aras -at the Kend of Tekeltí. The castle of Mogházberd is contiguous to the -territory of the Persian castle Shúregil, which alone remained in the -power of the Persians, meanwhile all the districts of it belong to the -government of Karss; the river Arpachaí forms the limits: the eastern -tract of this town is Persian, and the western, Ottoman, belonging -to Karss. Opposite to Mogházberd, at a journey’s distance, is the -castle of Ana on a hill, a square mud castle, built by Núshirván, the -inhabitants are Armenians; between Ana and Karss are two mountains; we -passed this castle and after nine hours journey we arrived at Zárshid -on the utmost frontier, built by the Persian Sháhs, it is the seat of -a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Karss; in the time of war, twelve hundred -men bear arms, the judge has a hundred and fifty aspers; there is no -Muftí nor Nakíb; but a Dizdár (Commander of the castle) and a hundred -and fifty men. The castle is situated on a hill in a plain, at a day’s -journey from Karss to the east on the road to Eriván, there are three -hundred houses with terraces, a mosque, a convent, a bath, and a khan. -Nine hours further eastward is the kent Thálish, on the frontier of -Eriván; we passed Kara Taib, and arrived after twelve hours march -to the east at Three Churches, a great convent built by the Greek -Emperors; the convent is divided into three parts, in one are Greek, in -the others Armenian nuns; these Three Churches and the Seven Churches -on the road to Nakhshiván are the most famous convents of Persia. It -is a convent well worth seeing on account of its monuments and strange -talismans. - -The balsam, called Mirún-yághí, is made here, of plants boiled in a -kettle upon a carpet, to which fire does no harm; the balsam which -is skimmed off from the kettle is put into jars, and used through -the whole of Frengistán as a panacea or universal remedy. In the -neighbourhood of this castle is an iron bar suspended in a cave without -being supported up from above below; the Infidels believe it to have -been suspended by a miracle of Simeon the Apostle: if a strong wind -blows it vibrates, and it is enclosed by iron rails to prevent it being -touched by the profane. The explanation of this matter is, that the -architect who made the vault of this cave, placed on the top of it a -great magnet, and a similar one on the floor, so that the iron bar is -kept in equilibrium between them. This is what I, shortsighted Evliyá, -found out by my own weak intellect. If it please God, there is no -blunder in our guess. The convent is inhabited by about five hundred -monks; almost every night five or six hundred horsemen, either from -Persia or Turkey arrive here, and are entertained by the monks with -milk, honey and dates. From hence we passed to the east through level -fields for nine hours, crossed the great rivers Aras and Zenghí, and -arrived for the second time at Eriván, where the Khán had just returned -from the wedding of his sister at Bakú, and lodged me at his house. The -next day I repaired to the Diván with the Aghás of Karss and Kaghzemán, -who complained, in the strongest terms, of their having been unjustly -accused of molesting the Persian caravan; a long discussion ensued, -at the end of which the Aghás appeared to be innocent, and the men -of the caraván to be calumniators. Takkí Alí Khán feasted the Aghás -three days, gave me five tománs Abássí, and a horse, and for the Páshá -a string of camels, laden with rice, also some letters. Charged with -these, I set out to return to Erzerúm. - - -_Journeys on our Return._ - -We set out from Eriván, with a caraván of seven hundred persons toward -the west, and reached after five hours the kent Abdallí, a Persian -village of a hundred houses, which at the time of the conquest was -fixed to be the frontier of Karss. We advanced to the north four hours -to kent Ayárán with five hundred houses; the inhabitants of which -are Gokdúlak; from hence through mountains of luxuriant vegetation -to kent Sheráb-kháneh, situated on a hill, of three hundred Armenian -houses with many gardens, it is a ziámet on the frontier of Karss. We -continued our journey to the west, passing over fertile steppes, and -seeing many castles, which had been ruined by Sultán Murad IV. After -four hours we arrived at kent Begum; the daughter of Uzún Hassan Sháh -of that name built it; the Persian Princesses are even now styled -Beghum: there are three hundred houses of Armenians and Georgians; it -was ruined by Timúr, but seven high arches are still extant among the -ruins on the border of Arpachaí, where the Princes of the Ak-koyúnlí, -Meimendi Khán, Ashár Khán, Otgabai Khán, Gúndúzbai Khán and other Sháhs -are buried, some lying, some seated on their thrones, as if they were -in life, with their names, and the chronographs of their deaths. The -three sides of this old town are a great Yaila. From hence we went to -the west through marshy ground, and some meadows, to the old castle of -Shúreger; Hossein Bikara, delighted with its situation on the river -Arpachaí, built this town according to the advice of Doctor Shúrgerí; -it passed into the hands of Kara Yússúf and was destroyed by Timúr; -Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá ruined it again; large vaults and masses are -yet conspicuous amongst its ruins. The musical tune Shureh is said -to have been invented by Shúreger at the time he was building this -town, whose inhabitants all delight in music, and are famous singers. -The castle is in ruins, and no more than three hundred houses with -terraces are now existing. The half of its districts being situated -on the other bank of Arpachaí belong to the government of Eriván; -those on this side to Karss. It is a mountainous fertile tract of -Georgia which extends northward to the Aras and Zenghí, and along -Mount Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; and on the west to Erzerúm. From -Shúreger we advanced to the west, crossing five small rivers, some of -which come from Georgia, some from the mountains of Azghúr, and flow -into the Aras; some of the ground is marshy. We then arrived at the -ferry of a river, the name of which I am ignorant of. Sultán Murad -crossed this river on his expedition to Eriván, and the spot is yet -marked, where his tent was fixed; the inhabitants planted trees round -it, and made it a prayer-place. Five hours further to the west through -fertile ground is the village of Búlánik, a free ziámet of Sefer Aghá, -of three hundred houses. Seven hours further is the castle of Karss; -we remained a night as guests with Alí Aghá, and continued our journey -next day to the village of Dushen Kia (the falling rock), on the -frontier of Karss, with two hundred houses; then five hours, ascending -and descending through high fir-woods and meadows to Wernishán on the -frontier of Karss, formerly a sanjak. The opposite shore of the Aras -belongs to the castle of Bayazíd, and the Alaï Beg of Wernishán resides -here; it is an Armenian village of three hundred houses. Akhiska is -two journeys from hence to the north; six hours further to the west -through fields to Zeinkhán on the territory of Karss, of two hundred -houses, a Dizdár, a garrison, a khán, a mosque, a bath, and forty -shops; it is the seat of a Súbáshí subordinate to Karss; the castle is -square and built of stone, the inhabitants are an obstinate people. We -continued our journey through fir woods for seven hours to Soghánlí -Belí, a strait famous all over Persia and Turkey for the difficulty -in crossing it; three hours beyond this straight we reached the kent -Kúmadámí, of a hundred and fifty houses, on the frontier of sanjak -Pássín, an Armenian village on the banks of the Aras. Eight hours -further is the village of Pássín, of three hundred Armenian houses, -in a plain, it is the ziámet of Ja’afer Efendí the land registrar -(Moharerí Wiláyet) at Erzerúm; five hours further along the Aras is the -station of Goz; we passed in sight of the bridge of Chobán, built by -the dynasty of that name, through level fields, and arrived at Hassan -Kala’a, which has been already described. Four hours from hence we -arrived safe at Erzerúm, where we found our gracious Lord the Páshá, -on the walk of Abd-ur-rahman Ghází; I presented the camels, letters -and caraván of the khán of Eriván, and reassumed my functions as Clerk -of the Custom-house, assisting every night at the assemblies of the -Páshá. At this time the Capijí Alí Aghá arrived from Constantinople, -with a Khattí-sheríf of Sultán Ibrahím, by which the Páshá received -the Imperial command to repair with all the troops of his government -to Karss, to be ready for the war against the Infidel Persians. The -Páshá paid obeisance to the noble túghra and instantly dispatched -commissaries to Erzerúm, Mera’ash and Sívás, in order to raise and -collect troops. I, poor Evliyá, received a commission to go to Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, the governor of the sanjaks of Sánja and Tortúm. - - - - -JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A. - - -I left Erzerúm with nine servants, proceeding to the north in the plain -of Erzerum, two hours to the village of Kán, of two hundred Armenian -houses; five hours more to the north we came to the village of Sheikh -Umúdúm, which has been described in our journey to Georgia. Six hours -further to the north, through vallies and hills, to the bridge of the -Georgian straight, a bridge built over the Euphrates by Shah Uzún -Hassan. It is on this spot that the rebel Abáza Páshá cut to pieces -forty regiments of janissaries sent against him; their bones are piled -up near the bridge: the village of Gúrgí-boghází (Georgian straight), -has two hundred houses, in the district of Erzerúm. We passed to -the north over flowery meadows nine hours to Rúmlí Sultán, a great -saint buried underneath a cupola. Here is the cave whence springs -the Euphrates, which is above all praise, since it is mentioned with -praise in the Korán. At Keifí, one of the sanjaks of Erzerúm, are the -iron mines, where iron shot are cast; several hundred little rivulets -run from these iron mines into the Euphrates, and somewhat spoil the -sweetness of the water; but from its source in the rock of Rumlí Sultán -unto Keifí it is the most delicious and most healthy water in the -world. Rumlí Sultán was a Saint, who appreciating the good qualities of -this river, took up his residence at its source; it is a village of two -hundred houses. We advanced three hours to the north to Akchekala’a in -the territory of the sanjak of Tortúm, built by Ulama Páshá in order to -control Georgia; in course of time the castle has been dismantled of -its walls and garrison. It lies north of Tortúm, and has six hundred -houses, a khán, and a mosque; it was destroyed by Bayazíd II. when -governor of Trebisonde in his youth. We proceeded six hours to the -west, to the village of Saúlú of a hundred houses in the territory of -Jánja, on the top of a high mountain without gardens; and seven hours -further to the west, to the castle of Jánja, otherwise Gumish Kháneh -(silver house). I went straight to the Court of Justice, and read the -firman, which all the inhabitants were ready to obey. I remained as -guest in the house of the inspector of the silver mines and began to -visit the town. It was built by Alexander, one of whose philosophers -discovered the silver mines. Mohammed II. conquered it by the sword -after the defeat of Uzún Hassan in the field of Terján. Silver is here -found in such abundance, that every child has a silver plate. The -inspectorship is let for seven million aspers; the inhabitants are -exempted from all taxes, because they are obliged to labour in the -silver mines, seventy of which are worked. These are the richest silver -mines in Turkey, the others are those of Kághzemán, Hakkárí, Bingol, -Sanjar, Akár, Aswán, Libanon, and Merzifún. These are the Asiatic and -African silver mines of the Ottoman Empire; the European ones are the -following: on the frontier of Bosnia, Sira, Berinjesse near Uskúb at -Karatova, Novaborda near Pereshtina, Sidr Kaissi near Salonia; but -their veins are thin; those of Jánja are as big as an arm, perfectly -pure silver: There was also a mint here, but it is now abandoned, I -however, got some aspers with the inscription, coined at Jánja. After -taking a good view of the town I was presented by the principal men -with three hundred piastres, a vase for rosewater (gulábdán), and -a censer (bokhúrdán) of silver, and after two days march through -mountains and straights I arrived at the old fortress of Baibúrd. -The Princes of the family of Akkoyúnlí, who came with the Dánishmend -family, and with the ancestors of the Ottomans from Mahán to Rúm, -first settled here, and having found a rich treasure of silver in the -mines, by which they became rich (Bai), the place was called Baiyúrd, -which was changed into Baibúrd. Mahmúd Pasha the Vezír of Mohammed II. -conquered it from Uzún Hassan. According to the description of Sultán -Súleímán, it is the seat of a Súbashí separated from the khass of the -Vezír of Erzerúm, a jurisdiction of a hundred and fifty aspers, the -revenues of the judge amount annually to six purses. There is a Muftí, -a Nakíb, Sipáh-kiayayerí, and Yenicherí-serdárí. - - -_Form and size of the Castle._ - -It is a pentagon, and stands on a high hill, the height of the wall -is forty royal cubits, it has no ditch, on account of its position; -there are three hundred old houses, but no market, khán, or bath; -two gates, one to the east, opening towards the gardens, and one to -the west, by which you descend to the lower town, consisting of more -than a thousand houses with terraces; there are nineteen quarters of -Moslims, and nine of Armenians; no Jews nor gipsies, but a great number -of Greeks, because it is not far from the seashore. A great number of -its inhabitants are Turks and Turcomans. Mohammed II. transplanted -hither a colony of three thousand men of the inhabitants of Tíre, whose -descendants are very orderly, good men. Its mosques are pleasant, the -most frequented of them is that of the conqueror, in the Castle; in the -market that of Záhid Efendí, a mosque covered with a terrace in the -olden style; its minareh is a slender building of bricks; at its left -are the Court of Justice, the Imperial dyeing-house and the Flour-hall. -Near to the women’s bath is the mosque of Kázizádeh Mohammed Chelebi, -an old but sweet mosque; near the river Jorúgh, is the mosque of -Shengel-baí; the part of the town beyond the river Jorúgh is called -Yoris Mahallessí; there is a dining establishment and college, with -three baths, the first is the bath at the bridge; the second, that of -Alí Shengáh; the third, the red bath; the temperature of these baths is -most excellent: there are three convents of Dervishes, and a great khán -close to the mosque of Kázizádeh; before this khán there is a market -every Sunday attended by from five hundred to a thousand persons; -three hundred shops, an elegant Bezestán, and some coffee-houses. -Of its provisions, fresh butter, white pies, and a kind of wheat -called camel’s teeth are much renowned; so are also the carpets and -felts of Baibúrd, light, well-coloured, fanciful carpets, which are -exported into all countries. The air being rather cold, it is not -very favourable to flowers and fruits, but it is amply provided with -fruit from the neighbouring places. There are some pretty faces, and -seventy schools for boys, who are quick and clever; the old men live -to the age of a hundred and fifty, who losing their teeth pronounce -with difficulty the letter S, but the women are very eloquent. Erzerúm -is two journeys direct north from hence. A man may go from here to -Erzerúm, by footpaths, in two days, and on horseback in four days. - - -_Description of the River Jorúgh._ - -It rises in the mountains of Erzerúm, supplies water to a great number -of fields, and flows straight to the lower town of Baibúrd; the two -banks are adorned with many elegant palaces and koshks and gardens, -where the inhabitants delight to fish; its name is corrupted from -Júírúh (river of spirit) a name it well deserves by its most excellent -qualities. The inhabitants of the town cut their wood on the mountain, -and putting on it a private mark throw it into the river, which it -floats down until it is stopped in the middle of the town by a great -rake, where each person comes to fetch out his wood. This river comes -to Baibúrd from the east, washes the rocks of the castle, passes -through many well-cultivated villages, and flows at the bottom of the -Castle of Conia, a large river, into the Black Sea. Some hundred boats -of the Lázes, which are called Sarpúna and Mengesila, navigate this -river to Georgia and Mingrelia, and exchange their merchandize for -slaves. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -The mountain facing the mosque in the quarter on the opposite bank of -the Jorúgh, is called the parrot’s mountain, it is the burying-place -of Abd-ul wahháb A’ari, and is a general walk. This high mountain -commands the town, but cannon shot cannot reach it from hence, the -distance being too great, and the river Jorúgh flowing between. The -hill which rises in the town, opposite the mosque, is ascended in half -an hour. The Pilgrimage of Osmán Ghází, who is here buried underneath a -cupola of bricks. The Pilgrimage of Jághir Kánlidedeh has the greatest -credit with the inhabitants of this town, as he is a recent Saint; -people yet alive having witnessed his miracles. Near this place, an -able architect built a bridge of fir-tree across the river Jorúgh, in -the shape of a swallow’s wing, to which the fir bridge over the Duina -at Fúja Shehrí in Herzgovina can alone be compared; but this bridge -of Baibúrd having only a single arch, is higher and finer than that -of Fúja. In the cemetery to the Kiblah of the town, are buried many -thousand great men, but I have mentioned only those I visited. After -taking a good view of the town, and having collected the number of -troops fixed by the firmán, I received from the Súbashí a present of -three hundred piastres, and continued my journey accompanied by fifty -armed men. - - -_Description of the Castle of Tortúm._ - -It was built by the old King of Georgia Mamerúl, was conquered by Uzún -Hassan, and by Mohammed II., and then fell again into the hands of -the Georgians. Selím I. first retook it when Governor of Trebisonde, -and Sultán Súleimán lost it again. He despatched his second Vezír -Ahmed Páshá to reconquer it, who took it after a siege of seven days -and an assault of seven hours, cutting all the Infidels to pieces; -and providing it with stores and men. He then advanced further into -Georgia, and the two castles of Nejákh and Mírakhor surrendered. From -hence he proceeded to Akchekala’a, which being a stronghold was not -taken till the seventh day. The Begs of the castles of Penkerd, Asherd, -and the little Akchekala’a paid obeisance. The district of Bevána with -three hundred villages did the same, and the inhabitants remain Ottoman -subjects even to the present time. The castles Isper and Pertekrek -yielded to the Ottoman power; so did also the district of Dadánlí with -seventy-six villages, and fifteen castles, large and small; the castles -of Tekkhíss and the valley of Bersássa were conquered, and Tortúm was -put down in the register as the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to -Erzerúm; it furnishes sixty thousand men, and the Páshá’s revenues -amount annually to twelve thousand piastres in a fair way: Its judge -is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers, and there are nine well -cultivated districts, the principal of which are those of Bervána, -Dadánlí and Isper, their annual revenue amounts to three thousand -piastres. - - -_Size and Shape of the Castle._ - -It is built in a square form, on a high rock; an iron gate opens to the -east; in the castle is a mosque of Sultán Súleimán’s time, and in the -lower town is seven hundred houses and seven mosques, two baths, two -kháns, twelve schools and seventy shops, but no stone bezestán, imáret -or medresseh. The pears, grapes and peaches are much praised; as it -is only two journeys from Erzerúm, the merchants send chests full of -fruit to that place; the inhabitants are righteous, hospitable men; -the river which flows through it goes into the Black Sea; in the town -of Tortúm saltpetre is produced for Government. While I was collecting -troops here, and visiting the town, news arrived to Ghází Sídí Ahmed, -the Páshá of the place, that the Cossacks had assailed the castle of -Gonia; he instantly put on his armour, mounted on horseback, summoned -all the Zaims and Timariots who wished to volunteer in this expedition, -assembled about a thousand men, and started with his troop under the -triple shout of Allah. We marched a whole day and night, reinforcing -our number on the road, and halted next morning in a valley. We -continued our course to the north for the whole of the second day, -passed on to the frontier of Trebisonde and entered that of Gonia: -here we met the Mingrelian troops, which came to join the Páshá, and -were honourably received, they consisted of three hundred well armed -horsemen with lances, and about a thousand riflemen with flying hair, -between forty and fifty years of age, with strange figures and ugly -faces, whom the Páshá flattered with good words. This night we passed -along the river Jorúgh, and arrived next morning at the castle of -Gonia on the Black Sea, which we saw filled with Infidel Cossacks, who -at the moment they saw us roared out, Jasus! Jasus! (Jesus); seventy -Chaikas were moored behind the castle. The Páshá with a hundred and -fifty Aghás, and all the troops which had joined him on the way, with -loud cries of Allah, attacked the ships lying in the river, cut the -cables, and let the boats float out into the Black Sea, cutting down or -making prisoners, those who were left to guard the boats, and towing -the Chaikas into a bay at a gunshot’s distance from the castle; the -Infidels, seeing they could not escape in their boats, acted like -swine that are laid hold of, and began to fire. The Moslim troops -on their side prepared every thing for an assault; and made ladders -of the masts and rigging of the captured ships. The Mingrelian and -Georgian troops entered the trenches in broad daylight, the walls were -fired upon, and the assault was made from all sides. The Páshá led -the assault himself with such courage and spirit, that the Infidels -had not time to recollect themselves, but fled to some ships, which -were left on the Jorúgh. Some of these boats being overloaded went -to the bottom, those who by swimming reached the opposite shore were -received by the muskets of the Moslims and went to Hell: seventeen -of the ships on the Jorúgh were burnt, and two hundred Infidels, who -could not re-enter the castle, were taken prisoners; seventy Moslims -fell martyrs in this triple assault. The Páshá now pressed the arrival -of the troops from the district of Sanjak Batúm. Finally there arrived -some thousand Lázes armed with lances, casques, muskets, and sounding -their war fifes, called Zígúla, with white banners waving; they joined -the Páshá, halting on the bank of the river. The Páshá left them not a -moment’s rest, but encouraged them by addressing them in the Circassian -language. Thus a crowd was collected who threw up earth and faggots in -mounds before the castle, on which the storming ladders were fixed. -The neighbouring mountains re-echoed the shouts of Allah! the Moslims -heaped bundles on bundles of twigs, and began to climb the ladders -like spiders and goats of Isper; the bundles heaped up before the gate -were set on fire. Ghází Ahmed Páshá himself mounted on the tower at -the eastern corner, and by his example encouraged the general assault. -From early dawn till the afternoon, neither the Páshá nor his troops -had tasted a bit of bread; in the afternoon the castle was conquered, -and I, poor Evliya, had the advantage of first proclaiming on its -walls the sound of Ottoman prayer. The castle being now filed with -victors, seven hundred Infidels were taken prisoners, and eight hundred -heads cut off, and planted on the walls; the seventy-seven boats were -towed back to the castle, and moored ready with all provisions and -munition. The rejoicings lasted three days and three nights, during -which the castle was illuminated. God be praised that I witnessed such -a conquest. At the moment when prayer was first proclaimed on the -wall, there appeared, on the eastern side of the Jorúgh, some thousand -standards and banners, who answered the report of the salutes fired -with the shouts of Allah; these were the troops of the Páshá of Karss, -who had arrived before Gonia after a flying march from Erzerúm, and now -encamped on the bank of the Jorúgh. - -Gonia now became the meeting-place of the whole army summoned by -the governor of Erzerúm; forty or fifty boats of Láz Mengesile, who -descended the river of Jorúgh, took to flight as soon as they were -aware, that the castle was again in the hands of the Moslims, and that -an Ottoman army was encamped along the shore of the river. They were -pursued by Sídí Ghází Páshá, who captured forty-seven boats, made three -hundred Mingrelians prisoners, and drowned about six hundred in the -river. This expedition was thus crowned with three victories: 1. The -conquest of the boats; 2. that of the castle; 3. the conquest of the -Mingrelian boats, which had arrived to the assistance of the Cossacks -with provisions. Sídí Ahmed Páshá distributed those provisions amongst -the Moslim victors, so that plenty now prevailed in the Ottoman camp. -The night was again passed with illuminations and feasting; the -shouts of Allah, and the sounds of the Ottoman drum interrupting the -silence of the night. The next day clouds of dust rising on the side -of the Jorúgh announced the arrival of a new army, whose glittering -armour dazzled the eyes; it was that of Koja Sefer Páshá, the Vezír of -Chaldir, who summoned by the command of our Lord the Páshá of Erzerúm, -arrived with the Georgian army in great speed to the assistance of the -Castle of Gonia; Sídí Ahmed Páshá went with the other Páshás to meet -them, and it was a grand sight to see these troops on fine horses, -well armed with spears, swords, shields, and muskets, with flying hair -and strange figures. When Sefer Páshá himself came with the train of -his guards (Matarají, Tufenkjí, and Shátir), he received Sídí Páshá’s -salute, and then rode on his right, Báki Páshá keeping on the left. -When they approached the castle a general salute of guns and musketry -gave them welcome. Provisions now arrived in abundance at the Imperial -camp from Georgia, Mingrelia, Láz, and Batúm. Next day fresh troops -appeared to the south of Gonia, it was the Páshá of Trebisonde, who -came with three thousand good troops; in seventy boats (sandal) and -a hundred ships of the Lázes, called Mengesila, he carried plenty -of provisions, and ten guns. Sídí Ahmed Páshá being acquainted with -his arrival neither went himself to meet him, nor sent any troops to -perform that ceremony. He halted with his troops on one side of the -castle. Having waited on Sídí Ahmed Páshá he received him without the -least honour, but with the following speech. - -“I am the Páshá of Tortúm, which is from four to five journeys distant -from Gonia, and it was not my duty to hasten to its assistance; but I -did it for the sake of the faith and the Empire. You, Páshá, who are -the Governor of Trebisonde, and Begler-beg of two tails, and at only -two journies from Gonia, why did you not arrive till within these seven -days to its assistance. Quick, executioner!” - -The Páshás of Pássín, Akhiska and Kaighí interfered, saying, that it -was against constitutional law, that he being only a Páshá of one -tail, should kill one of two. He replied, “By God! if it is righteous, -according to religious duties, I’ll cut off his head, even if he be a -Páshá of seven tails; in consideration, however, of your intercession, -I won’t kill him, but relate the business to the Emperor; call quickly -for the Diván Efendí (Secretary).” While the dispatch was being drawn -up, orders were given to put seventy of the principal officers of the -troops of Trebisonde into prison, and they were accordingly shut up in -the castle, for not having urged the Páshá to hasten to the deliverance -of Gonia. The Diván Efendí made out the account of the conquest of -Gonia, and the accusation against the Páshá of Trebisonde; it was -signed and sealed by the three Begler-Begs, by the Judges of Gonia -and Trebisonde, and was ready to be sent off, when the inhabitants -of Trebisonde threw themselves at the feet of Sídí Ahmed Páshá, -supplicating not to be accused to the Porte. Sídí Páshá persisting in -his resolution, showed all the obstinacy of a Circassian. The principal -men of Trebisonde however, solicited the Páshás to intercede with the -Commander-in-chief Sídí Ahmed; and it was ultimately arranged, after -three days negotiation, that the Páshá and principal men of Trebisonde -should give forty-three purses of money, three sable pelisses, twelve -beautiful boys, twelve girls with eyes like Narcissuses, and of sweet -language, a silken tent richly embroidered with gold, a sword set with -jewels, a mare, seven quivers, vases of silver, the work of goldsmiths -of Trebisonde, bridles, hatchets, candlesticks of silver, three strings -of camels, three of mules, and a hundred and twenty horses. By these -gifts they obtained the favour of not being named in the report to -the Emperor; to whom only were mentioned the Begler Begs, Alaï and -Sanjak Begs, who had hastened to the deliverance of Gonia, and this -report was sent by Gurji Beg Zadeh to Constantinople. Another Kapijí -Báshí was despatched with the same news to the governor of Erzerúm, -but at the moment he was setting out, clouds of dust announced the -arrival of fresh troops on the banks of the Jorúgh; these were the -troops of Erzerúm sent to the succour of Gonia, under the command of -Hassan Atlí Aghá. The Zaims, Timariots and Jebellis of Erzerúm with -half the garrison, and the guards of the Páshá, forty banners of Segbán -and Sáríja (irregular levies of the Páshá), led by their colonels -(Bolúk Báshí). They were followed by a squadron of Delí, by another -of Gonullí (Volunteers), six squadrons of Tatar horsemen, a squadron -of six hundred Moteferrika, a squadron of two hundred Cháshnegírs -(carvers), a squadron of two hundred Serraj (saddle-men), squadron -of two hundred Kílarjí (men of the cellar), and lastly a squadron of -two hundred Ichaga (indoor servants), led by the Key-keeper (Miftáh -ghúlám agassí). They were also followed by forty chamberlains, each -one surrounded by from forty to fifty men clad in armour, on horses -of the finest breed, caparisoned with silver, and ornamented with -sea-horses bristles; they rode two and two, and immediately after them -came Hassan Atlí Aghá himself, with trumpets sounding, and took up his -encampment on the border of the fortress. All these chamberlains were -men, who had seen service in the quality of Kiayas (substitutes), Kaima -Káms (Lieutenants), Motessellims (Vice-governors) and Administrators -of provinces. Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave them a great repast, and next day -assembled all the architects of the country to repair the castle of -Gonia. The Turkish music played from seven sides, seventy tables were -spread, and day and night was spent in festivities. The side of the -castle that was damaged by the fire, and the mosque of Bayazíd II. was -first put in repair. Seven hundred men forming a new garrison, with a -new Beg, as Commander, were put into it with sufficient stores, and -all the arms taken from the enemy. Thus the castle of Gonia shone forth -in greater splendor than before. God be praised that I, poor Evliyá, -was so fortunate as to proclaim the first prayer on its newly conquered -walls! - -The troops of the sanjaks of Trebisonde and Bátúm were left for the -safety of the castle of Gonia, and the whole army of sixty thousand -men, then began to march along the banks of the river Jorúgh towards -Erzerúm. The army having halted on the bank of the river Jorúgh on -a large meadow surrounded with trees, a council was held, and Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, said:—“The Mingrelians, though belonging to the Province -of Trebisonde have rebelled, and I have related to the Emperor, that -we took their boats; which, together with those of the Russians, may -now wait in the port of Gonia for the Emperor’s decision. I have also -acquainted His Majesty that so many thousand Cossacks and Mingrelians -have fallen to the share of the Ottoman victors, as prisoners, and I -now intend to take vengeance on the Mingrelian infidels with this army, -ready for expedition, that it may gain some booty as compensation for -its journey.” The governor of Georgia, Sefer Páshá, who was very angry -at the Mingrelians, proposed that all the horsemen should join the foot -and undertake an inroad for booty, the Moslims of Akhiska and Georgia -leading the way, who were then also to share the spoil. The Council -broke up with this resolution, for the happy execution of which I said -a Fátihah. The cryers gave notice, that all Moslims who wished for -breeches and horses, for boys and girls, for money and booty, should be -ready in arms. This notice produced an astonishing effect, the Moslim -victors roared like lions, armed and washed themselves, and waited for -the orders of the Commander. - - -_Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia._ - -Ketgáj Páshá led the van of three hundred men, towards the Kiblah, -followed by three thousand men of Georgia and Akhaska, and by Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, at the head of nine thousand men. Bákí Páshá commanded the -rear of three hundred men; the troops of Erzerúm and Kara Hissár formed -the two wings; the sanjak Begs of Khinissin, Tekmán and Melázjerd -were deputed to provide the forage. We marched this day ten hours to -Zárchairí, a pleasant position between Mingrelia, and the sanjak of -Batúm. The next day we passed the Jorúgh, and Sefer Páshá began to -pillage the district of Darína; the twenty-two companies of Sárija -(irregular levies) of the Páshá, our gracious Lord, two thousand two -hundred brave men, pursued the fugitives in the mountains, made seven -hundred prisoners, and lost seven men as martyrs. The troops proceeded -till they arrived under the walls of castle of Merava, which was taken -by assault, with the loss of seventy Moslims, who drank the sherbet of -martyrdom; seven hundred men, five hundred women, two hundred girls, -and six hundred boys, were made prisoners. The pillage was pushed as -far as the districts of Georgia, and we arrived at the end of nine -hours, at the field of Boghdú; here a Soffa (or meadow seat) is shown, -where Sultán Selím I. was seated when Governor of Trebisonde. Two -spies sent by the Prince of Mingrelia, were taken prisoners, and they -showed the way (the necessary precautions being taken) to the district -of Tamaras Khán, whose son with a thousand horsemen and two thousand -infantry, met the Commander-in-chief, and led the Ottoman party of -pillage further against the Mingrelians, with whom he was angry. - -The pillaged districts were those of Pernák, Selsel, Perkán, Penák, -Gúmle, and Samárgha; we halted before the castle of Akhár, a small -round castle on a hill, built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; the -inhabitants are not very brave, but great thieves; two hundred and -fifty castles and villages were pillaged, and nine thousand prisoners -taken. Ketgáj Páshá, the leader of the van, alone took two thousand -beautiful girls, whom the commander-in-chief bought for a thousand -piastres, and sent them to Sultán Ibrahím with twenty other fine -maidens; they were so beautiful that the text of the Korán, “We have -created man in the finest shape,” seems to have been revealed only -for their praise. The booty was so rich, that a slave was sold for -ten piastres, an ox for half a piastre, and a sheep for five aspers. -The Beg of Báshajik sent to the Commander-in-chief a present of five -boys and five girls, and also gave me a boy and girl. We arrived -after eleven hours predatory march at a plain, in the middle of which -was a building raised by the Beg of Mingrelia, it was ruined by Uzún -Hassan, and is now contiguous to Batúm on the frontier of Mingrelia. -We passed the Castles, Nejákh, Merkhor, Akchekala’a, Chepek, Penkerd, -Asherd, Kúchúk Akchekala’a, the Begs of which all came with presents, -paying obeisance to Sídí Ahmed Páshá. These castles being situated on -high mountains, and in woody tracts, were passed by indulgently, but -the villages situated in the plain were all ravaged; the district of -Yúvána, overrun for the space of seven days, furnished such beautiful -boys and girls, that each of them was worth a treasure of Egypt. We -halted underneath the castle of Tekrek, the inhabitants of which -came with presents, to ward off the danger of the pillage, they were -threatened with; six districts more, the names of which I am ignorant -of, shared the common fate of havock. The Ottoman victors were now so -loaded with spoils and booty, that it became impossible to carry it -all away. Many of them returned bringing their booty to the Castle of -Gonia, and from thence to Trebisonde. - - -_Of the Language of the Mingrelians._ - -Georgia is inhabited by seventeen Christian tribes, the principal of -which are, the Achikbásh, Dadián, Shúshád, and Gúriel. The Mingrelians -are the last and most despised specimen of their language: one, _artí_; -two, _sherí_; three, _shumí_; four, _ámekh_; five, _khotí_; six, -_pishkúí_; seven, _ishkúí_; eight, _rúo_; nine, _júghúr_; ten, _wetí_. -Bread, _gúpál_; fire, _dájkhir_; shield, _púr_; sheep, _ashkhorí_; -girdle, _derkát_; head, _dúdí_; wood, _deshke_; dog, _joghúr_; ox, -_khijú_; calf, _kissin_; salt, _ajém_; swine, _gháj_; ass, _kirút_; -bear, _nút_; cheese, _kúl_; curds, _merjván_; come, _wai_; man, _chaí_; -sit down, _dakhúr_; girl, _tíne_; go, _halawlí_; come mother, _waí -diás_, &c. - -Mingrelia is inhabited by a great number of different tribes, who speak -different dialects; there are seventy different products; its sheep, -goats, swine and fine breed of horses (Kohailán) are renowned; there -are neither mules nor asses in the whole of Georgia and Mingrelia, -but a great number of foxes, wild cats, and martens; corn and wheat -are scarce as hardly any thing but millet and Lazúd (?) is sown; on -the high mountains are many nut and fir-trees, box-trees and cedars. -The inhabitants, like those of Mingrelia, Abaza, and Circassia, are -settled in the mountains; they have castles with gardens and churches. -In short, during seventy-seven days, we made the tour of Mingrelia and -Georgia, after which time the Ottoman troops took the direction of -Erzerúm; on the third day we came to the district of Darátlí, which is -contiguous to the sanjak of Tortúm. Perfect security being restored, -the troops were licensed to break up by the Vezír of Akhiska, Sídí -Ahmed Páshá, and we then went with the Georgian Begs towards Chaldir. -After fourteen hours we reached the valley of Yúvána, where the -inhabitants of Isper and Tortúm met us with presents. At the public -entrance into Tortúm, the Cossack and Mingrelian prisoners were dragged -along in chains; the inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the -Istikbál (solemn meeting. See Morier’s travels). Sídí Páshá himself -wore the plumes of honour (Jíghatelí) which the Governor of Erzerúm -had sent to him, put on his well caparisoned state horse, trappings of -six pieces of steel of Nakshiván, wrapped round his head a red sash -in the Mohammedan fashion, clad himself in blue steel with armour -on his thighs, and, looking of stupendous size, like a seven-headed -dragon he passed through the crowd who received his salute crying, -“Aleik awnallah eí ghází seifollah!” “God’s assistance be upon thee, -O victor, sword of God!” The guns of the castle of Tortúm saluted and -the mountains re-echoed the thundering noise. Sídí Páshá repaired to -his palace, and Ketgáj Páshá, Bákí Páshá and eight Sanjak Begs encamped -before the town for three days, and on the fourth the whole of the -troops moved towards Erzerúm, the territory of which we reached on -Kássim (St. Demetrius’ day) and passed the straight of Ghází-boghází. -The governor expecting the troops, was in his tent at Gumishlí Kunbed -(silver vault) where Sídí Ahmed, Ketgáj, and Bákí Páshá were received -with the greatest distinction, treated with a splendid repast and -invested with pelisses of honour. Here the Páshá and Sanjak Begs laid -with great pomp their presents before the governor. The season being -now too far advanced to think of the expedition against Eriván, we -remained in this place spending our days in pleasure. The Governor, my -gracious Lord, being a little angry with me on account of my having -accompanied the expedition without leave, Sídi Ahmed Páshá interceded -in my favour, saying, “If it is a fault that I took Evliyá with me -to the siege of Gonia, it is he that proclaimed first the Mohammedan -prayer on its walls; he is a traveller of the world, a good companion -of mankind, a Háfiz (who knows the Korán by heart) and a warrior in -the ways of God.” Having asked pardon for me in this gentle manner, -the Páshá said, “His duty was to collect troops and not to assist at -the siege of Gonia, I will not pardon this fault unless he finishes in -eight hours the recital of the Korán (Khatem sheríf).” I began with the -Bismillah and finished in somewhat more than nine hours, after which I -kissed the earth before my gracious Lord, and received from him a sable -pelisse, a thorough bred horse, two fine boys, and a sinecure; so that -I now spent all my time both day and night in pleasure. - - -_Moral Reflections._ - -The end of all joy is disappointment, and the end of every day is -bitter. There is no doubt about this. So at the end of this 1075th -year we received the news by a swift messenger despatched from -Constantinople, that Sultán Ibrahím had killed without reason the Grand -Vezír Sáleh Páshá, and had appointed in his place Tezkereji Ahmed -Páshá. Though this news greatly afflicted the Páshá yet he kept it -secret not to spoil the pleasure of the company, and transacted the -rest of his business at Erzerúm. Sáleh Páshá, who had been one of the -favorite slaves of the father of our Governor, had for this reason -given him the government of Erzerúm; but the present Grand Vezír, ever -since he had been the Tezkerejí of Kara Mustafa Páshá, had become his -mortal enemy. He kept however this secret to himself and continued to -feast in his tent with his guests, Sídí, Ketgáj, Bákí and Dilaver Páshá. - -(_Here follows the separate history of these four Páshás and of the -Governor, which we omit. In the chapter of Sídí Páshá it is mentioned -that playing at jeríd one day with Evliyá he broke four of his teeth._) - - -_Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of -Zílka’deh 1057 (1647)._ - -We left the town by the gate of Erzenján and halted first in the -plain called the circles of Bazár-bashí, where farewell presents -were lavished on us by all the Aghás and principal men of Erzerúm, -who both by day and night formed their court around the tent of the -Páshá. The Kiaya of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, accompanied -by an hundred and fifty Aghás, an hundred and seventy Kapijí-bashí, -seven hundred men, Sárija, and three hundred Segbán, arrived here with -the news of Sáleh Páshá having been killed. The next day a messenger -came from Constantinople with a Khattí-sheríf conferring on governor -Mohammed Páshá, our gracious Lord, the Governorship of Karss with the -obligation to take the field against the Persians by defending the -frontier. The Governor, our gracious Lord, said, “Be it now as it -may”, and without paying attention to the Khattí-sheríf continued his -way to Constantinople. The first station, three hours to the west of -Erzerúm, was the village of Kán, an Armenian village in the midst of -the plain. Five hours further westward, the village Ilija, possessing a -hot spring, covered with high cupolas by the munificence of the Princes -of the dynasty of Akche-koyúnlí. The basin is not paved with stones, -but only strewed with white sand. The water is of a moderate heat -and smells like that of other hot springs, but is more conducive to -health than the warm spring of Zia-ud-dín. From hence we advanced five -hours to the westward to the village of Khinnis, an Armenian village -of two hundred houses, and in five hours more came to the village of -Mamakhatún, a mussulman village of two hundred houses. This Lady was a -pious Lady of the Akche-Koyúnlí family, and lies buried here with her -children beneath a high cupola; there is a mosque, an imáret, and a -college. Advancing for five hours over valleys and hills we reached the -village of Ketúr on the territory of Erzerúm, where the Euphrates is -crossed by a bridge of fir-tree. The Páshá halted here for three days, -and sent me on a mission to Mirakhor Aghá, the inspector of the salt of -Kumákh. - - -_Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh._ - -The Castle of Kumákh was built by the Greek Emperors and then came -into the hands of the Akche-koyúnlí. When in the possession of Uzún -Hassan, the king of Azerbeiján, it was besieged by Timúr for seven -months, during which the besieged disdained to fire a single shot or -throw a single stone on the besiegers. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan -it was also besieged by Mohammed III., during three months without -success. Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, availed himself of a -good opportunity and conquered it. He then crossed from Trebisonde -with three hundred ships to Caffa and Crimea on the opposite shore with -the intention of wresting the sovereign power from the hands of his -father, Báyazíd II. assisted by the Tatars of the Crimea. The Father -and Son met near Hájí Oghlí-bazárí in the valley of Oghrásh, and Selím -being defeated left his son Súleimán, Governor of Trebisonde, and went -himself into Persia, where he visited the tombs of great Saints like -Imán Mússa and played at chess with the Sháh, who at this time had -taken possession of Kumákh. Selím then defeated his father at Chorlí, -who exiled to Demitoca died at Hássa. Selím I received at Yení-bághje -the obeisance of the inhabitants of Constantinople, and instantly -fixed the tails at Scutari as the signal of a Persian expedition. -The castle of Kumákh was conquered by Bíklí Mohammed Páshá. It is -one of the strongest fortresses of the Ottoman Empire, like those -of Diárbekr, Márdín, Ván, Sín Kara-hissár, Afiún Kara-hissár, Megú, -Eremnák, Merkáb, Hassan, Karak in Asia, and in Rúm Mengesha, Napoli, -Misistra, Rodos, &c. It is loftier than all these and is invisible till -noon, from clouds which pour frequent showers upon it. At the time of -the description of the country by Sultán Súleimán it was set down as -the seat of a Voivode, subordinate to Erzerúm. Three districts belong -to it; that of the town, of Gerjánis, and of Kúrúchaí, from which the -Judge gathers an annual revenue of three thousand piastres. The Castle -has a Dizdár and a garrison of five hundred men, an officer of the -Janissaries (Serdár), of the Sipahís (Kiayayerí), and a Nakíb; another -officer rules the village of Gomúr on the other side of the Euphrates, -which consists of seven hundred houses: this officer is the Inspector -of the salt, which is sweeter than the salt of Hají-begtásh. - -The inhabitants of Turkistán and Turcomania get all their salt from -Kumákh. A linen which is no where else to be found in such perfection, -is made here for tents. There is a proverb in praise of the linen of -Kúmákh, the sheep of Erzenján and the girls of Baiburd. The river -Komúr, which passes through the gardens of the village that bears its -name, comes from the mountains of Jerjánish and joins the Euphrates -near the convent of Melek Ghází Effendí. Near, and opposite to it, is -Mobarek, an armenian village, the khass of the garrison of Erzerúm. -The water, which distils in the caverns of the mountain freezes in -the summer time and in the winter is as warm as a hot spring. The -inhabitants keep in these caverns their cheese called Katik-peinirí. In -coming hither from Erzerúm you cross the Euphrates over a large single -arched bridge, ascend a height of five hundred paces and pass along the -rocky tract called Kebán. There towering rocks are on the right, as -you ascend the castle and on the left are deep precipices. The small -river Ain Manzar here flows into the Euphrates. This river issues from -Mount Manzar, unites with the Sáterdereh, a torrent which supplies -water to the gardens of the town and joins the Euphrates below the -rocks of Kepán. The water is clear and fresh. Near it is a rock called -Alí’s rock, where people believe they are cured of pains in the limbs, -because Alí is said to have rested here his weary limbs; it is a stone -like a magnet, and the inhabitants call it Kullikia; above is the -suburb of the Infidels. The houses, with and without gardens, are all -covered with earth. The subjects are all Armenians; there are three -hundred shops, but no bezestán of stone, two kháns, two baths, and a -great mosque: the bath near it is called Chorbájí-hamám. The suburb has -no fortification (Robát) round it, but above it is a great castle. - - -_Description of the Castle of Kumákh._ - -This castle is a pentagon of stone situate on a chalk cliff; it may -be compared to the castle of Sín-hissár on the frontiers of Erzerúm. -On the opposite side of the Euphrates is a height by which it is -commanded, but the distance is too great to make it of consequence. -It has three strong gates one behind the other; on the right and left -of the first gate are two brass guns, well worthy to be seen, of -such dimensions that a cobbler might very well work in them without -complaining of the narrowness of the place. They are of the time of -Sultán Súleimán; their length twenty-seven spans and their balls of -three quintals weight. The greatest wonder is how they succeeded in -bringing such large guns to so high a place. At the innermost or third -gate is suspended the mace of a Pehliván, and a bow of Alí. The number -of the houses great and small is six hundred, but they want gardens and -water. Five magazines have been filled with rice and millet ever since -the time of Sultán Selím I., which seem as though they had been laid -up but to-day. There are eleven mosques; the Beg’s is a large mosque -with a minareh of stone; though this castle is built on a rock, yet -the houses are paved with flat stones. On the tower called the Martyrs -towards the north are thirty-two large and small guns; from the gate -of the Martyrs, a water-way cut in the rock leads down to the foot of -it, by which they fetch the water at the time of a siege. There are -three cisterns here near one another, the first is full of good water, -the second smells of saltpetre and the third is very salt. Though this -town is a town of Turkistán, situated on the territory of Erzerúm, yet -its inhabitants are goodnatured, sound people. The linen for tents, the -white salt and the cheese called Katik-peinirí, which is better and -sweeter than that of Mytilene and of Koreisha at Damascus, are famous -all over Asia. The quails, which in summer come in great numbers, the -inhabitants preserve in vinegar for the winter. - -Near the magazines are the pilgrimage of Kend Effendí and at the head -of the bridge, that of Melek Ghazí. As this town is not situated on -the great road, caraváns do not pass here. The Euphrates on the east -comes from the mountains of Rúmlí Sultán and flows round the rock -towards the west to the Izúlí Kurds. From the Alps of a thousand lakes -(Bíngol) comes the Murad river, which joins the Euphrates. Whoever -travels from Malatia, Kharpút, Ekín, Pálava, or Diárbekr can only cross -it in a boat. I viewed this town for three whole days, collected what -was due by the Voivode to the Páshá, and received from him an hundred -piastres as a present of arrival (Kúdúmie). I returned in five days to -Kumákh and set out next day northward along the Euphrates to Shúrím, -which has two hundred houses; ten hours further, to the station of -Jebjeh-khání; then leaving the Euphrates to the right, to the village -of Jemen, an Armenian village on the plain of Erzenján; from whence we -arrived at Erzenján. - - -_Description of the Castle of Erzenján._ - -This castle belongs to Erzerúm and not to Azerbeiján. There are -four towns, which bear the name of Erzen, viz: Erzen in Mesopotamia -(Jezíre), Erzen Akhlát, Erzenrúm commonly called Erzerúm, and Erzenján. -It is a delightful spot, the possession of which occasioned many -wars, till in the year 855 Sultán Bayazíd I. received it from its -prince, Záhir-ud-dín, who, the very same day he heard of the conquest -of Amasia, repaired to this town and delivered to Sultán Bayazíd the -keys. Bayazíd out of generosity returned the keys to Záhir-ud-dín -on condition that Khutbeh be performed, and the coinage struck in -his name. Záhir-ud-dín died three years afterwards and the town was -taken possession of by Kara Yússúf, the Prince of the dynasty of -Kara-koyúnlí, who held it for seven years, until Timúr overrun Asia. -Kara Yússúf fled from his residence and sought shelter at the throne -of Sultán Bayazíd, together with Ahmed Jelair, the Commander of -Baghdád. Timúr required Bayazíd to deliver them up to him, but Bayazíd -refused, and this refusal was the chief cause of the war between them. -Kara Yússúf and Jelair afterwards fled into Egypt to Sultán Berkúk. -Erzenján fell into the hands of Uzún Hassan, who being already Prince -of Azerbeiján became also Prince of Erzenján. His mint is still extant -near the convent of the Mevlevís. After the defeat and death of -Bayazíd, the Empire was disputed by the Princes Issa, Mússa, Súleimán -and Mohammed, the latter obtained it and became absolute Lord, but was -unable to conquer Erzenján, which remained in the hands of Uzún Hassan -until the time of Mohammed II., who took possession of it after the -defeat of Uzún Hassan on the plain of Terján. He repaired the castle of -Sultán Záhir-ud-dín and garrisoned it with Ottoman troops. In the reign -of Bayazíd II., when Sultán Selím was governor of Trebisonde, Sháh -Ismail took possession of Azerbeijan, which returned to its first Lord -after the battle of Chaldirán in the year 921 (1515); Erzenján was then -made a part of the revenues of the Páshá of Erzerúm. Its magistrates -are a Súbashi and a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, who may -collect annually six purses. The other officers are the Muftí, Nakíb, -Serdár, Kiayayerí, a Mohtessib (judge of the market) and a Shehr-naibí -(inspector of the town.) - -The castle is situated in a delightful plain in the midst of woods, its -gates and walls are very low and its fortifications very old. At the -time of the rebellion of Abaza at Erzerúm, the ditch was cleared and -the walls repaired, but Abaza Páshá became nevertheless master of it. -It has an iron gate, and the communication from the fortress to the -suburb is by a bridge; in the castle are three hundred houses with and -without gardens, a mosque, a khán and a bath. - -The great suburb consists of eighteen hundred houses with and without -gardens, all covered with neat terraces and but few of them having -upper stories; seventy-six mosques great and small without cupolas, and -seven convents, the most renowned of which is that of the Mevlevís; -Chelebí Effendí, the son of the great Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín, is buried -here. This convent built in the olden style is situated in the midst -of a delightful Persian garden, the nightingales of which with their -delicious songs feed the brains of the poor Dervishes, and intoxicate -them with divine love, while they themselves are singing mystic hymns -in the tunes of love. Round the music-room (Ima’á-kháneh) are the cells -of the Dervishes, and the convent is endowed with a good kitchen and -cellar (Kílár). They preserve here Jelál-ud-dín’s habit, a Korán, and a -Mesneví written by his own hand. The second convent is that of Chádirjí -Sheikh Abd-ul-kádir Gíláni. There are various excellent baths, eleven -great kháns, forty abecedarian schools, no houses for reading the Korán -(Dár-ul-kirayet), tradition (Dár-ul-hadíth) nor for dining the poor -(Dár-ul-ita’ám), but there are a great number of students (Talebe); -and lectures are read in all the mosques. Amongst the inhabitants are -found many clever, goodnatured, learned, pious, well-bred men, who wear -short dresses, but no silk with the exception of the soldiers, who -dress in cloth of various colours and also in silk. The youth of both -sexes are pretty, and the ladies are chaste as Adúyeh Rábia, and wear -when walking boots and a pointed cap (Arakjín); they are prohibited -from walking in the market-place, which contains six hundred houses. -Precious articles are kept in a small bezestán. From hence to Erzerúm -situated beyond the mountains is two journies. The climate of Erzerúm -is rough and very cold, while that of Erzenján on the contrary is mild, -and favourable to roses and flowers. Snow falls sometimes, but remains -no longer than three days. Its gardens are productive of the finest -flowers and the sweetest fruits. - - -_Praise of the Eatables and Beverages._ - -Seventy sorts of pears are produced here; and though the season of -winter was far advanced at the time of our stay here, yet we now saw -seventeen various sorts of pears offered as presents to the Páshá, with -raisins and apricots; its mulberries both white and black are much -renowned and when dried are exported to all countries. The sherbet of -mulberries seasoned with different spices gives new life to the soul. -Erzerúm is provided with fruits from this town, from whence they are -transported in two days. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -The convent of Khizr, a convent of Mevlevís; the convent of Sheikk -Khaled Efendí; and the tomb of Himmet Páshá, one of the vezirs of -Sultán Selím, who was killed on his way to Chaldirán. - -I remained here for three days to collect the sums due from the -Inspectors of salt and the Súbáshí of Kúrúchaí. Whilst the inhabitants -were giving feasts to the Páshá news arrived of the rebellion of Várvár -Páshá, with a letter to the following intent: “My son! Hezárpara Ahmed -Páshá the Vezír of Ibrahím has killed eleven Vezirs and deprived me -of the Governorship of Sívás, because I did not send to the Sultán -the wife of Ipshír Páshá, the daughter of the Prince of Georgia, the -Lady Perikhán. Three Kapijí-bashí came with orders to take my head, -but I happily escaped from them. I have now received letters from all -the great and principal men at Constantinople, and from the officers -of the seven military corps, summoning me to come with my troops to -Scutarí, and to demand there the heads of the Vezir, of Jenjí Khoja, -Begtásh Aghá, Chelebí Kiaya, Mossleh-ud-dín Aghá and Kara Chaúsh. I am -now united with three Vezirs, seven Begler-begs and eleven Sanjak-begs -ready to march against Constantinople. If thou wishest to save thy head -from Ahmed Páshá (the grand Vezir), I invite thee to join us at Tokát, -from whence we shall march our united forces to Constantinople to try -our fortune.” This letter having been received at Erzenján a council -was held, and the levies (levend) having determined to follow the -auspices of the Páshá, the resolution was taken to join the party of -the rebels, and a Fátihah was said to that intention. Alaja Atlí Hassan -Aghá was sent on with a foraging party to be quarter-master general, -and letters were sent to Várvár Páshá with the declaration upon oath to -join him. I, poor Evliyá, was quite perplexed and out of my wits, I had -so many things and goods, which I knew not how to dispose of. We were -in the midst of winter, and the tradition of the prophet, “a journey -is a portion of hell, be it but a farsang’s length,” received its full -application. I did not know where to leave my things in safety; and -only with my horse and sword accompany the Páshá, my gracious Lord, as -a rebel. - -We first moved from Erzenján to the north and halted after seven hours -at Báshkhán; five hours further, to the village Erzensí, an Armenian -village, six hours further to the village of Sheikh Sinán, near -which at Bárúgúnde is the tomb of Behlúl of Samarkand, a convent of -bareheaded and barefooted Begtáshís; and three hours further we crossed -the bridge of the Shepherds near Hassan Kala’assí. Shah Kúrúdúmán of -the Chobán family is buried in the same place with Behlúl of Samarkand. -It is said, that the tomb being opened, King Chobán Kúrúdúmán with all -his family was burnt by a fire that issued out by talismanic virtue. -He was a Prince of great enterprise, built the bridge of Tiflís and -near Melázjerd the bridge with golden rings over the Araxes. Adjoining -the bridge is a magnificent caravánseraï, the windows of which look -on the river, so that travellers lodging there have the pleasure of -fishing out of their windows. I have sometimes passed this bridge on -my way to and from Eriván. This time I visited the builder’s tomb and -said the Súra yass, for his soul. We left Bárúgúnde and came after a -march of eight hours to the north to Ezendeler, a cultivated village in -the district of Terján, and after four hours more to the north to the -station of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, where a feast for ten days was ordained. -Here I took leave of the Páshá and proceeded with the men of Ahmed Aghá -to Shín Kara Hissár. I first travelled towards the east through woods -and deserts along the valley of Kara hissár, and villages belonging to -it, and reached the town itself after a nine hours march. - - -_Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár._ - -There are in the Ottoman Empire various castles, which bear the name of -Kara-hissár, the most renowned of which is that before us. The others -are Kara-hissár called Afiún (Apamea), Develí Kora-hissár, Adalia -Kara-hissárí, and Ván Kara-hissárí. The two first are superior to the -others. Shábín Kara-hissár is so called because a mine of alum (Sháb) -was found in its mountains; the stones of the castle being black, it -is also called Shabín from Shab (night, dark coloured). It was built -by the Armenian kings, fell into the power of the Greek Princes of -Trebisonde, and then into that of Záhir-ud-dín, the Prince of Erzenján, -who conquered it on a dark night, which is another reason given for -its being called Shabín. It passed into the power of Uzún Hassan, the -Prince of Azerbeiján and was taken from him by Mohammed II. In the -time of Sultán Selím I. it was described as a sanjak belonging to the -government of Erzerúm. Its khass is thirteen thousand aspers; and -there are thirty-six ziámets and nine hundred and forty timárs, which -furnish, together with the men belonging to the Beg, two thousand -men. The revenue of the Páshá amounts annually to forty purses. It has -sometimes been given as a supplementary allowance (Arpalik) to Páshás -of three tails. It was so given to Ghází Sefer Páshá, the vezir of -Akhiska, in addition to Akhiska. His administrator (Motessellem) was -Dervish Aghá, a Georgian and powerful commander. He once sent me on -service to the valleys of Mendvál and Túsdereh by which I gained a -horse, a sword, two red mules, and a Georgian boy; presented to me by -himself. The judge is appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers and -may annually make four thousand piastres from the different districts. -There is a Muftí, a Nakíb, a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Subashí, Mohtessib, a -Dizdár and an hundred and fifty men invested with timárs. - -The castle of Shabín Kara-hissár is of a heptagon form and stands on a -high mountain, appearing like a man of war dismantled and dismasted. -It is the work of an architect who was a second Ferhád. It is one of -the twelve fortresses in the Ottoman Empire, which, not being commanded -by the neighbouring heights, seem to have been built by the hand of -Omnipotence. The height of the walls on all the seven sides is seventy -cubits, with seventy bulwarks and seven hundred battlements. The whole -circumference is three thousand six hundred paces; there is no ditch, -it being surrounded by precipices. It has three strong gates where -the garrison keep watch day and night, because the inhabitants of the -villages along the shores of the Black sea send all their best goods -into the castle to protect them from the inroads of the Cossacks; there -are seventy houses with terraces, but they suffer from want of water, -which is obliged to be brought upon asses from the river below; in case -of siege they use the water kept in cisterns. The magazines are full -of millet and rice, and have been for more than a century. As it is -not a frontier fortress the artillery is neither heavy nor numerous. -A small mosque bearing the name of Sultán Mohammed II., a khán, bath -and market are in the lower town or suburb. This suburb, with gardens -around it, consists of sixteen hundred terraced houses, the windows of -which look towards the north; the courtyards are spacious. There are -forty-two mosques, none of which are covered with lead, like those of -the Sultáns at Constantinople; the one within the market place near -the court of justice is much frequented: three convents, two baths, -four kháns, seven schools for boys and an hundred and fifty shops; -as this place does not lie on the great road, but on one side of it, -its establishments are not very elegant. Tapán Ahmed Aghá began a new -bezestán with eighty shops on both sides of the main street; it is -sheltered by a roof against rain and foul weather, and protected by two -gates on each side against thieves and bad men. Watchmen keep guard -every night because many precious things are deposited there. - - -_Description of a Lion._ - -Upon the gate leading to the outer town a lion, stuffed with cotton, -is to be seen, it has oranges in the place of eyes, yawning like a -seven-headed dragon, with a piece of red felt instead of a tongue, and -teeth as sharp as Turcoman daggers or Arab lances. It measures from -its nose to its tail forty-five spans. This mountain lion continued -his havoc on the cattle of the neighbouring country for seven years, -when it was killed by a brave man, and placed by the order of Ahmed -Tapán upon the gate of his new built bezestán. It is a terrific beast, -with feet resembling columns; it is not so beautiful as the lions -of Baghdád, Helle, Jevazer and Kavarna, with their yellow coloured -hair of a span’s length, like Angora-goats. Lions being generally the -inhabitants of deserts, this one of the mountains deserves so much -the more to be noticed. The mountains of this part, being all covered -with thick forests, abound with leopards, lynxes, wild sheep, martens, -wolves, foxes and jackals, and men are scarcely able to fetch wood from -the mountains because they are so full of ferocious animals. A party of -Cossacks, who had once pushed their inroads as far as these mountains, -became the prey of wild beasts; intending to devour men’s goods they -were themselves devoured, and ever since the town has enjoyed perfect -security from the roving Cossacks, who availed themselves of the -vicinity of the Black Sea. - -In this town I saw another marvellous thing, it was a boy standing -before a barber’s shop with his father who begged alms; the boy was -about eight or nine years of age with a stupendous head, like the -heads of the people of A’ad and Themúd, like the head of Salsál (?) -at Akgermán or like pumpkins of Adana and cabbages of Ván, on a neck -no thicker than an arm, which not being capable of bearing such an -enormous weight the head was supported by a wooden fork, which was -fixed in the ground, and on it the weight of the head rested. This -monstrous head, held up in this way before a barber’s shop, laughed in -the faces of all who passed by. It had no turban but a kind of coarse -saddle-cloth wrapped round it, the brows were of two fingers breadth -extending to the ears, which were of human form, but of immense size, -as were also the eyes, the lashes of which resembled arrows; the nose -was somewhat of the shape of a Melonyena (Bádinján) of Morea, and -when breathing, the nostrils were like those of a snorting horse; the -mouth opened to such an astonishing width, that he was able to swallow -at once a small water melon; of his teeth two were curved outside of -the mouth towards the upper, and two downwards to the under lip; the -lips were ruby-coloured but like the lips of a camel; the spittle was -continually running out of his mouth. The physiognomy was that of a -Kalmúk, and the hair crisped like that of black Arabs. The arms and -breasts were those of a boy’s of his years, the fingers very thin -and the feet like sticks. This was a case to apply the verse of the -Koran to: “God does what he wills and orders what he likes.” I asked -the father whether the mother of this monstrous child was still alive, -he said “Yes, and that she was actually again with child.” I said, -“Bandage her body tightly, that she may miscarry, for if the head of -the child should grow to the size of its brother’s, its entrance into -the world might cause an inconvenient enlargement.” The father said, -“You are joking, but I assure you most earnestly, that when the mother -of this boy laid in with him, the birth was so easy that she was aware -of nothing at all and thanked God for such an easy deliverance.” I, -poor Evliyá, said, “But never has there been created a creature with -such a head, such a face and such teeth; do you believe it to be the -real produce of your loins?” The man answered, “Having once gone to -the mountain with my wife to cut wood, we there enjoyed a shepherd’s -hour in most pleasant conversation. I then left her reposing under -a tree, and went on my business, when I suddenly heard her cries, -and saw her running towards me pursued by a naked giant, tall as the -fir-trees. When she got home she fell sick, and her figure increased -in size daily, until at the end of a year’s time she was delivered of -this boy, whose head grows bigger and bigger every day.” I said, “If it -please God, that it should still grow to a larger size, you must come -to Constantinople, where if shown to the Vezirs and great men of the -Empire he may easily gain two thousand piastres in a year.” - - -_Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum._ - -This is a reddish alum produced in the mountains of this town, which -is therefore called Shábín Kara-hissár; it is much sought after by the -goldsmiths of all countries. The Inspectorship is let at seven hundred -thousand aspers a year. It breaks up into pentagon and sexagon stones -shaped like the seal of Solomon; the goldsmiths use it to brighten the -silver, and the surgeons for plasters. It has many excellent qualities. -The temperature of this town being mild the inhabitants are fair. Its -quinces and a kind of small bread are famous. We remained here three -days as guests in the palace of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, purchased coffee, -horse-shoes and some other necessary things and then returned. - -On our journey we passed a great river, which flows into the Kerkúk, -and whose waters collect from the vallies of Mánd, Vál, and Kúrd-dereh. -After six hours march to the west we reached the village of Yakúb-aghá -and further on, along the shores of the Kerkúk, through steep and stony -ways and the tremendous pass of Bogház-kessen, to where the river, -which flows through Amasia, enters the Kerkúk, and falls into the sea -at Ener. Having passed it we continued our way for eight hours over -hills and valleys and arrived at the Castle of Hájí Murád, built by -Uzún Hassan’s vezír. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan it surrendered -its keys without contest to Mahmúd Páshá, the vezír of Sultán Mohammed -II. It is a high and steep castle like that of Kavilí-hissár, of a -thousand paces in circumference and without a ditch, which from its -situation on a hill would be superfluous. In the castle are seventy -small houses, but no market, khán, bath, college or imáret. There are a -great number of nut-trees. On the border of the Kerkúk, which flows at -the foot of the castle in a deep valley is a khán. The Súbashí resident -here is subordinate to Shábín Kara-hissár. I here informed the Páshá -of the strength of Shábín Kara-hissár, at which he was surprised. From -hence we ascended a high mountain to the north and came in six hours -to the village of Chaúdár; in seven more to Emírler, a village in the -territory of Shábín; in five more to an Armenian village; in four more -to the west to the village of Kílárjí Veliaga, on the border of a -high mountain, consisting of two hundred houses, in the jurisdiction -of Iskefser, in five more to the station of Básh-chiflik also in the -jurisdiction of Iskefser on the frontier of Erzerúm and Sívás, which -has already been mentioned on our road to Erzerúm. Further to the west -is the castle of Ník-hissár (good castle) and five hours further the -village of Kazán-kia in the province of Sívás, in the jurisdiction of -Ník-hissár. Still passing to the west by Bogház-kessen we came through -thick woods to the village of Kúmánova; in two hours more to the great -village Sontissa, on the frontier of Nígissár, with three hundred -houses, a mosque, and bath; and in five hours more to Zavádí-tekiessí, -of two hundred houses, on a high mountain on the frontier of Ládík; a -great foundation, being a great convent at the tomb of a great saint. -Its Dervishes are almost all of the Prophet’s family. I here performed -with the Páshá the prayer of I’idí-asha (Kurbán-bairám) and the Sheikh -of the convent gave us a repast. The tails having been sent on, we -passed the next morning in five hours the pass of Setlí-púlí, and -arrived at the village of Hamíd, which has a mosque and gardens; and in -five hours more to the west, at Ládík. - - -_Description of the Castle of Ládík._ - -This castle was built by one Havík one of the Greek Princes of Amasia. -Melek Ghází of the Dánishmend family, who came from Mahán with the -Seljúk family, conquered both Ník-hissár and Ládík in the same year. -There are three Ládíks in the Ottoman Empire, viz: that of Konia now -quite ruined by rebellions, that of Korládík in the province of Ván and -the third, Ládík of Amasia. After the conquest of the town by Bayazíd -I., Ládík surrendered its keys to Timúr-tásh Páshá, who accepted them -with the good wish that the inhabitants might live long. The blessing -of this wish is still evident in the long and prosperous lives of the -inhabitants. Bayazíd II., when governor of Amasia, passed six months -of the year in this place and made a delightful garden, which is kept -in order by a Master (Ustá) and forty Bostánjís, Kúrújí and Tablakjí. -It is a town free from all duties and gifts, because it is the wakf of -Bulbul Khatún the mother of Ahmed I. The governor of Sívás has no right -to interfere by his officers. The judge has the rank and pay of three -hundred aspers, but may collect in a fair way six purses annually from -the districts. There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Naíb and -Mohtessib. The Castle is an old pile of building, which is now without -a commander or garrison; the Bostánjís run over the woods and heaths -and watch the town, which has seventeen quarters; forty-seven Mihrábs, -six of which are jamís and three of them Imperial ones; three thousand -and twenty houses covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; -seven convents, the most remarkable of which is that of Seid Ahmed -Kebír; two baths; seven kháns; a large caravánseraï, built by Gházi -Davúd Páshá; four hundred shops, and a bezestán; forty-one palaces -of Vezírs and great men, all having baths; no particular college, -but lectures are given in all the mosques; eighteen schools for boys -and two dining establishments. The Noblemen wear sable pelisses, the -merchants ferráje and kontosh of cloth, and the women velvet trowsers, -boots, ferráje of cloth, white veils and pointed caps; they are no -where to be seen but in the bath and in the houses where they pay -visits. They are most modest, lovely creatures, who entangle lovers -with sweet words and gracious behaviour. - -Its eatables are large pears better than those of Malatia, Nissú, Khúí -and Merend; delicious cherries, a kind of bread called Memejik-ekmek -which is the first bread in the world after the Súmún of Sapánja: there -are no raisins, melons, water-melons, figs, &c. The white honey called -Tághbálí is not equalled either by that of Creta, Adana or Sicily. Its -fine cotton linen excels the linen of Mossúl and Lekefúr in Persia. - - -_The Walks of Ládík._ - -The head fountain of the water Bállí-kiasú, which flows through the -town, is a pleasant walk on the Kiblah side. Another famous walk on -the east side is called Frenk-gozí, the Frank’s eye; Hossein Páshá -built a koshk by the splendid spring which arises here; the water is -so cold that people cannot take out of it three stones consecutively. -The rivulets formed by those two sources of Bállí and Frenk-gozí flow -through the town supplying water to the palaces, kháns, mosques, -gardens, and mills, and terminate in the lake of Ládík. Another walk -is that called Akbínár, a fountain of cold water, which does not flow -through the town, but outside. All these sources rise in the high -mountains to the north of the town and find their way into the lake -of Ládík. On the west of Ládík, a pleasure-place called the monastery, -a delightful spot with a water called Rámja, which is sweeter than the -water of Ma’avia. These united sources divide below the castle into -two branches, one of which waters the gardens of Kowa-mahallessí below -the pilgrimage of Khizrlik, and the other passes by the pilgrimage of -Bálídedeh, where the principal men come to meet the pilgrims returning -from Mecca. - - -_The warm laths of Ládík._ - -A hot spring is situated one hour and a half on the west of Ládík on -a high hill in a village, called Khalliz, below which it flows as -a small rivulet, turns some mills, and falls into the Kizil Irmák; -being situated behind the mountains of Ládík it cannot fall into the -lake. The warm bath of Khalliz is much renowned. In the cherry season -this place is visited by thousands of people, who here renovate their -health by God’s command. An outlet from this hot bath flows into the -river Khalliz which empties itself into the Kizil Irmák. Another warm -bath (Ilije, Turkish; Humma, Arabic; Germáb, Persian;) is on the -west side of Ládík in the jurisdiction of Kaúza. Kaúza is in this -country the name of a hot bath, which in Rúmelí is called Kainarje; -in Tartary, Ilissí; in Mogolastán, Kerenda; and Frangistán, Bagno. It -is a double bath so that men and women have their separate bathing -places. The basin in the men’s apartment is ten feet square and is such -a delightful sight that it might restore dead men to life. The water -rushes forth from four lions’ mouths, which are at the four corners. -The water is not very warm, but in addition to this great basin there -is a small one the water of which is so extremely hot, that no man -can bear it. On the four sides of this great basin under vaults are -eight bathing troughs, where thousands of men are cured in the cherry -season. In the same bath is a cold, limpid spring, called the maiden’s -eye (Kiz-gozí), which gives fresh life to those who drink of it. The -distance between this spring, cold as ice, and the hot spring is but a -yard. - - -_Description of the Lake of Ládík._ - -This is a large lake to the east of Ládík, which would take a day -to go round; eleven different sorts of fish are found in it, the -description of which would be too long to give. Twenty-six springs and -rivulets flow into this lake on its four sides, from the districts of -Zedaí, Súnssa, Kaúza and Zeitúm; it has no outlet. On its border is -Bogházi-koí, a pleasant village, and the village of Otúz, renowned -for its kaimak (cream), which is no where better; it can be cut like -cheese and is elastic as gum. If any Kaimak can be compared with it, -it is that of Bíngol (thousand lakes). Amasia lies eight hours to the -south of Ládík, and to the eastward is Ník-hissár; the jurisdiction of -Kavákelí is at a journey’s distance. To the west is the town of Koprí -and the jurisdiction of Zeitúm at a journey’s distance. North to it is -the harbour of Samsún and further on Sinope. - - -_Pilgrimages of Ládík._ - -Sheikh Seid Ahmed Kebír, buried in his own convent, was the disciple -of Sheikh Ekber who is also buried here in the old mosque, built by -himself in the year 952 (1545); he was one of the Sheiks of Sultán -Orkhán. Beneath the castle Sheikh Ya Wúdúd is buried, and Báli-dedeh at -the meeting place of the caravan of Mecca. Ghází Tayár Mustafa Páshá is -also buried here beneath a lead covered cupola. - -I remained at this place three days with my gracious Lord, the Páshá, -to whom great feasts were given, and then marched five hours to the -west to the village of Shabín-ághá, of two hundred houses, where Kássim -Aghá gave a grand feast; five hours further on we reached the village -of Korkoí, of three hundred houses, a mosque and gardens. The next day, -when the tails were about to be carried forward, two Chaúshes arrived -as messengers from Constantinople to Diárbekr, whom the Páshá arrested. -On their being searched nothing was found but a Khattí-sheríf to the -Páshá of Baghdád, Sáleh Páshá, removing him from his government and -recalling him to Constantinople in order that he might be made Kápúdán -Páshá. The same day the Páshá despatched his messenger Sáleh to Murteza -Páshá, the brother of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, to acquaint -him that couriers from the Porte were on the way with an invitation to -Constantinople to which he should pay no attention, but beware of the -snare laid for him, and join instead the party of Várvár Alí Páshá, who -was marching to Constantinople. The Courier Sáleh received an hundred -ducats to join Murteza Páshá with all speed; and on the fourth day the -Khassekí and Chaúsh, who were the bearers of the Imperial rescript, -were set at liberty and continued their route to Baghdád. The Páshá -remained six days at Korkoí and moved on the seventh, when after five -hours march we reached the old town of Merzifún. - - -_Description of Merzifún._ - -It was built by the Dánishmend family and conquered by Bayazíd I. It -is now a castle in good condition and useful against rebels, in the -sanjak of Amasia, belonging to Sivás, and is guarded by watchmen. The -town is a wakf of Saint Pírdedeh and is commanded by the Kizlar Aghá. -The judge, appointed with three hundred aspers, may annually collect -from the different districts six purses. As it is an inland castle it -has neither commander nor garrison. Its public officers are a Muftí, -Nakíb, Serdár, Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb. We were here the guests -of Diláwer Aghá, the Silihdár of Tabání Mohammed Páshá, who treated -the Páshá and fourteen hundred men of his suite for ten days with -the greatest hospitality: so that not even a bag for the horses nor -a cup of coffee were provided for by the Páshás people. The officers -were lodged in the town by billet (Yáfteh) and lived with their hosts -in perfect harmony like fathers and sons; four thousand men of the -troops were provided with lodgings in the neighbouring villages, the -inhabitants of which, though Turks, are of a gentle and mild temper, -and give freely of what they have. Every necessary for sustaining life -is here found in abundance. The town is situated on the border of Mount -Deshán and contains four thousand houses covered with brick, forty four -quarters and seventy mosques, the oldest of which is that of Murad II., -in the market-place; it is in the olden style with one mináreh, and is -much visited. - -The colleges are, that of Murad II., where lectures are held also on -tradition, seventy schools for boys, and two dining rooms, one of which -is at the convent of Pírdedeh. At an hour’s distance from the town -is the Convent of Akásha, and in the towns are those of Abdul Kádir -Jílání, and one of Khalvetís; the Kháns are in the market. On the left -corner of the gate of the old khán is suspended the mace of a Pehliván. - - -_Description of the Baths._ - -The old bath, divided for men and women, was built by Mohammed I., and -has more than seventy troughs or basins. Round it dwell the felt and -safian makers, who tan blue, yellow and red safian. The walls of the -bath are all lined with chalk mixed with musk and amber, the odour of -which pervades the whole building and renders it so dry that neither on -the walls nor on the windows does a drop of moisture collect. Being an -old building, however, it is not light, but rather dark. The water is -very warm and limpid. - - -_Praise of Pírdedeh._ - -When Murad II., the father of Mohammed II., was building a mosque -and college here, the enemies of Pírdedeh calumniated him by saying, -that he accompanied the women into the bath and foretold to them -hidden things, which are forbidden in the Korán, such as whether -they would lie in with a boy or girl. Murad II., angry at such -scandalous behaviour, took his sword with the intention of performing a -meritorious action by killing the accused. When he came to the bath and -saw Pírdedeh walking about with an apron round his loins, he upbraided -him for mingling with the women in the bath and rubbing them instead of -letting it be done by the waiting women. Pírdedeh said, “My Prince, -I do such service only to women who are pregnant with great Doctors -and learned men, and therefore enter not the bath in the common way.” -Thus saying, he entered through the stone wall which opened for him, -and the place is yet shown where he passed through before the eyes of -the Sultán. The Sultán then said, “I came hither Dedeh to kill you -with this sword in a legal way.” “Such is not the act intended for you -sword,” replied the Saint; “your sword is destined to conquer Smyrna, -which Timúr was unable to subdue; but which has fallen into the hands -of the Greeks. Go, therefore, and conquer Smyrna and eat this bread.” -On saying this, he took up two pieces of marble lying before the bath, -kneaded them like dough and presented them bread, one to Murad II., -and the other to his son Mohammed II., foretelling the conquest of -Smyrna to the first and that of Constantinople to the second. This -prediction being fulfilled, twenty-six years afterwards Mohammed gave -to his convent an endowment of three hundred and sixty-six villages, -so that the whole town of Merzifún belongs to this foundation. Every -year a Mutevellí (administrator) from the Kizlar Aghá, who is the -Názir (inspector) accompanied by three hundred horsemen, comes to -take possession of the village and distribute its revenues among the -dervishes and other poor men. The two pieces of white marble bread are -actually shown fixed into the wall, where the Saint passed through it. -This bath is a place for miraculous cures, and is the counterpart of -the bath built by Avicenna. - -The houses of the town, adorned with Sháhneshíns (projecting windows) -all look towards the kiblah. Its inhabitants are sound and healthy -on account of the prevalence of easterly winds. In the summer the -inhabitants repair to Mount Deshán for summer lodgings (Yaila). These -alps were given of old, when the Dánishmend family came from Mohán in -Khorassán, to the sons of Deshán and are now in possession of one of -their descendants, who receives a duty for the pasture of many hundred -thousand head of cattle. Some hundred rills and rivulets, flowing down -from these heights, water all the fields and gardens of the town. The -nature of the soil is such, that however copiously it may rain, the -fields are not productive unless watered by the rills of Deshán; but -then they become so fertile that the corn returns an hundred fold; for -one kíle at least eighty. These rills are under the inspection of a -particular Aghá, who regulates the distribution of them, for if such a -magistrate were not appointed, the inhabitants of Merzifún would kill -each other for the sake of the water. A part of the rills and sources -of Mount Deshán flow in the direction of Koprí and water its fields and -gardens; another into the district of Kaúza in the valley of Ládík; -and another still to the northward to the valley of Osmánjik. The town -of Merzifún stands on a hilly site backed by Mount Deshán. Amasia is -fifteen hours on the kiblah-side of this town, Ládík twelve, Osmánjik -sixteen, Gumish ten, and Kerkerán eight. On the northern border of -Mount Deshán stands the castle of Koja Kala’assí, looking upon the town -of Koprí. If you march from Merzifún along Mount Deshán for five hours -to the northward you arrive at Koprí, and in three journeys further at -Samssún, which is the harbour of Merzifún, it being nearer to it than -Sinope. - - -_Products._ - -Must, pure as that of Aintáb, sweet raisins, and the white bread of -Pírdedeh; six hundred shops almost all occupied by dyers, who dye a -peculiar blue even finer than the Persians. Its cotton stuffs are -exported in great quantities to Crimea and exchanged for prisoners; -the ferrájes and dresses of the inhabitants of Crimea are made of the -stuffs of Merzifún. Its spun cotton, shirts, blankets, cushions and -other printed articles are also in good estimation. - - -_Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún._ - -The first of all the Saints of this place is Sheikh Pírdedeh, who came -with Hají Begtásh from Khorassán by permission of Koja Yessúí. He -dwelled outside of Merzifún to the north on a hill, and spent his days -in the baths as a Santon from the time of Orkhán to that of Mohammed -II. His convent which is a larger building than even that of Koyún-bábá -at Osmánjik, is provided with a kitchen and cellar (Kílár) and affords -every night lodgings and food to two or three hundred travellers; two -hundred dervishes of the order Begtáshí, barefoot and bareheaded, serve -their guests who visit the tomb of the Saint, say a Yass in honor of -the deceased and perfume their brains with the sweet odour of musk, -which exhales from his tomb. So great a number of candlesticks, lamps, -candelabra, vases for rose water and censers are not even to be seen -at Imán Riza. His habit, carpet, banner, drum, crown, mace, sling and -strap, the treasure of these dervishes, are preserved in boxes, and -many thousand travellers both on land and sea have here suspended their -slings and maces in eternal remembrance. I, poor Evliya, being a great -friend of Dervishes, according to the Prophet’s tradition: “Poverty is -my glory!” put with their permission the crown of Pírdedeh, which is a -Turkish cap of felt, on my head; the whole convent meanwhile resounding -with the cries of Allah and pious prayers. The building is entirely -covered with lead. The second pilgrimage is that of Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím -Ben Emír Merzifúní, who was the disciple of Zein-ud-dín Háfí at -Brússa and composed the work, Wassayaí Kudsie (Mystic Admonitions). -He accepted a living of eight aspers a day at the mosque of Sultán -Mohammed I., at Merzifún, where he lived and died; his tomb is now -a place generally visited. In his mystic poems he has taken the name -of Rúmí, they are all in the style and cant of the Sofís. We remained -ten days in this town to look at its curiosities. On the tenth day -arrived Murád the Khassekí and Haúrúzjí the Chaúsh, who had been put -into prison for four days by our gracious Lord, the Páshá, that his -messenger, Sáleh, despatched before them to Murteza Páshá, might -arrive first; but “Man proposes and God disposes;” Sáleh was struck by -apoplexy at Nissibín and remained there, while the two messengers of -the Porte, who started four days after him, arrived at Murteza Páshá’s -lodging at Diarbekr, presented him first with the diploma of Captain -Páshá, for which good news they received a sable pelisse and a purse -of money each, and then attacked him suddenly and severed his head -from his body. They now arrived at the Mehkemeh (Court of Justice) of -Merzifún with the head in a box, which they there deposited, and then -came into the presence of the Páshá, who was surrounded by all his -men, their hands grasping the daggers in their belts. The Khassekí -and Chaúsh trembled like leaves, kissed the threshold of the gate and -after having sat down on their heels, the Páshá upbraided them saying, -“Infidels, why have you killed this unfortunate Murteza Páshá? All your -things and saddlecloths had been searched, and nothing was found but -the diploma appointing Murteza, Kapúdán Páshá; where did you hide the -order for his death? Pray, speak the truth.” They said, “Most fortunate -Vezír we are servants who but do what we are ordered. The proverb -says, ‘If there were not the Sultán’s words the executioner would not -commit the deed.’ We hid the order for death in a leaden box, in the -water-bottle, where it escaped the search. We reached Murteza Páshá -before your messenger, who was struck by apoplexy, and after having -prevailed on him to return from Baghdád to Diarbekr, we there opened -the bottle, took out the firmán and executed it. The head is now at -the Mehkemeh, and the command is yours; who should beware of your own -head. Health to you!” The Páshá satisfied with the Khassekí’s answer -gave him a purse of money, saying, “Now get you gone, or God may send -you misfortune!” The Páshá was now troubled about his own fate, and -began to collect Sárija and Segbán (irregular levies), wrote letters to -Várvár Páshá and sent me to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who was then in the -town of his birth (Koprí) and to Hassan Aghá who was at Kilis. - - -_Journey from Merzifún to Koprí._ - -We set out on the 10th Moharrem in a northerly direction along Mount -Deshán, passed the village of Begorán and in six hours reached Koja -Kala’a a small castle on a rock accessible but by one road and one -gate. It was besieged at different times by the rebels Karayázijí, -Saíd Arab and Kalender, but never was taken by them. It was however -conquered by Bayazíd I., from the Dánishmend family and belongs now to -the district of Koprí; the garrison consists of an hundred men, and -it has a mosque, cistern, magazine for corn and seven or eight small -guns, but no bath, khán or bezestán. The inhabitants make cans of -fir-tree, which go by the name of bodúj, they also manufacture musical -instruments called chekúr, tanbúr, rádha, karadozen, yúnghár, &c. In -six hours more, after passing many villages on the border of Mount -Deshán, we arrived at Koprí. - - -_Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí._ - -We dismounted at the house of Yússúf Aghá, where we stopped as guests, -and delivered our letters to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and the other -principal men, we then collected the Búlúk-bashís and ordered cryers -to proclaim that all those who wished to have goods and slaves, and -possessed breeches and a horse, were to come to us. After this we -went to view the town. Koprí is a fortress in good condition on the -border of Mount Deshán, in a tract intersected by hills and valleys at -a place watered by two rivers. One of these is called Bogha-koí and -flows past the bottom of the town; the other is at an hour’s distance, -and is called Astavolúz. The town of Koprí is situated between them. -At the time of their overflowing they inundate the whole plain of -Koprí; the town derives its name Koprí (bridge) from the great wooden -bridge by which the Astavolúz river is crossed. It is a wonderful work -constructed of fir-trees. At an early period this town was called -Shebender, the name for a bridge in the language of the Amalekites. -The stone bridge, which was formerly here, broke down on the night of -the birth of the Prophet, and was replaced by this wooden one. The two -rivers which flow past the town of Koprí unite below it and fall into -the great river Báfra. This town was first built by the Amalekites and -was taken by Melek Ghází, the Prince of the Dánishmend family, from -the Greek Emperors of Trebisonde. Bayazíd I. took the fortress, the -abovesaid castle of Koja Kala’a, by capitulation. It now belongs to -the government of Amasia, half of it being a ziámet and the other half -a subáshílik subordinate to Tokát; the judge is appointed with three -hundred aspers. Its districts contain no less than an hundred and forty -villages with gardens, kháns, mosques covered with lead, and from three -to four thousand houses all covered with bricks; the great borough -Bogház-koí has three thousand houses; the other remarkable places of -similar extent are Baghjeh-koí, Doyán-koí, Akdepeh-koí and Akoren-koí. -From these hundred and forty villages and boroughs the judge annually -collects seven thousand piastres. There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, -Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb, but as it is an inland castle it has -neither commander nor garrison. The rebels Kara Yazijí and Said Arab -were natives of this town, but having been defeated at Erla they fled -and became rebels. To secure this town against them a second castle of -earth was built close to the stone castle, and the two have four gates, -but the shops and markets are outside in the suburb. - -The town of Koprí consists of six thousand houses covered with bricks -of two stories, the lower story being built of stone and the upper -of oak whitened with chalk; so that all the houses dazzle the eye by -their brilliancy. The winter being severe they are all provided with -chimneys, which lift their bonneted heads like white Minárehs. These -chimneys looking like tall white columns give a good appearance to the -town, which is all covered with red bricks. The principal building of -stone in the castle is the Seraï of Elháj Yússúf Aghá built by Koprilí -Mohammed Páshá; there are altogether seventy palaces, and twenty -mihrábs, in eleven of which the khutbeh is performed. In the stone -castle is the mosque of Hájí Yússúf Aghá, with a water basin, a jet -d’eau, and a mináreh covered with lead. Of the convents the first is -that of the great Sheikh, that of the Káderites, and of the Khalvetí, -but there are none of the Mevleví. The people generally are friendly -to Dervishes. There are eleven kháns, two imárets, and five colleges, -because its lawyers, divines, medical men and students are numerous. -The schools for boys are forty-eight, that of Hájí Yússúf is covered -with lead and richly endowed. There are various baths, the best of -which is the double one of Ahmed Páshá, a thousand shops, and a strong -bezestán with four gates. Yússúf Aghá may be called the last builder of -this town which he enriched by a great many endowments; the bezestán -was also his building. The most elegant market-place is that of the -tanners, who illuminate every night their shops with candles; there -are also a great many dyers. Its gardens are in full cultivation and -produce excellent fruits. The pears, grapes, cotton wares, wove and -spun, and the blue linen are as famous as its rosy-cheeked beauties. -The harbours of this town on the shores of the Black Sea are Báfra and -Sinope, which are but a journey distant. At five hours distance is the -strong castle of Ardoghán, which I am now about to describe. - -The castle of Ardoghán is situated on a high hill, which is ascended -by five hundred steps and therefore only accessible to men; it is -a single rock like the fortress of Márdín. The highest point is a -crooked rock, which seems to threaten ruin every moment. Melek Ghází, -the conqueror of Nigissár, also conquered this town; and it was -afterwards taken by Bayazíd I. It is commonly called Seddí Turkmán, -the dyke of the Turcomans. The castle now contains an hundred and -fifty houses, a cistern, mosque, and magazine for corn. Precious -articles are kept within this castle and in that of Koja Kala’a on -the border of mount Deshán. A Dizdár and forty-eight men do the duty. -The castle is rendered safe by a drawbridge against the attacks of -rebels. There is no market khán or bath. The district belongs to the -jurisdiction of Koprí. Six hours westward is the station of Gol, a -village in the district of Zeitún, with a mosque, a khán, and a bath. -Six hours further, the village of Súrúk in the jurisdiction of Zeitún; -and after a march of six hours along the Yaila of Kondúz we arrived -at Zeitún, a large place in the territory of Amasia of two thousand -houses with kháns, mosques, baths, schools and numerous gardens. Six -hours further is the large place (Kassaba) Karghú, belonging to the -sanjak of Kanghrí, of six hundred houses with gardens, a mosque, khán, -and bath. Six hours further, the town of Túsia which has already been -described. We remained here one day and returned again to Merzifún. The -third day I arrived at Koprí, where I found every thing in the greatest -confusion and the whole town in an uproar, because Koprilí Mohammed -Páshá had received orders from the Porte to march against the rebels. -From hence I went in six hours towards the kiblah to the village of -Begoran on the border of mount Deshán, which we had passed in coming -but did not stop at. In another six hours we again reached Merzifún -and met Defterdár-zádeh Mohammed Páshá, my gracious Lord, to whom I -brought two hundred men, Sáríja. He was overjoyed at this and instantly -formed them into two companies (Bolúk), giving them the names of the -company of Evliya Guzerlí and Habíb; and in addition to twenty-four -other companies of irregular levies, they made together twenty-six -hundred men. I remained ten days longer at Merzifún employing my time -in collecting men, and on the 27th of Moharrem left it for the farm of -Murteza Páshá, which I reached in six hours. - -This is a very productive farm (Chiftlik) situated in the plain of -Merzifún. As snow was falling here we suffered much from the cold and -in three hours, after many difficulties, reached Kúlák Hájí Koí, a -village of two hundred houses with a ruined khán and a mosque. The -inhabitants had all fled and there remained not even a cock in the -village. The troops were dying of hunger, and during the night so heavy -a storm blew that the snow was five spans deep in the morning. When the -trumpets of departure sounded we moved on, though every one cursed the -march, and struggling with difficulty against the gale and snow reached -the straight called Diriklipúl, where the distress was very great owing -to the fury of the gale, the quantity of snow, the uncertainty of -the road and the want of provisions. The Páshá distributed money and -encouraged some of the bravest to go in search of the road, through the -midst of the snow, which they passed over in shoes made of horse-hair. -This sort of shoe is called Páchila, and is used in Turkistán and -Persia when snow has fallen to any depth. It consists of a circle -like a sieve, the inside of which is fashioned into a shoe made of -horse-hair; this they put on their feet to walk over the snow. The -circle round the shoe is to give a greater surface to the foot in order -to prevent it from sinking into the snow. Provided with such shoes the -troops entered the straight, but were in the greatest distress, for -some were lost notwithstanding these Páchila. Mules, camels and horses -were stumbling one over the other and cries and lamentations pierced -the air. The Sárija and Segbáns, so many Calibáns (Kaltiban) were the -first who fled. In short it was impossible to pass the straight of -Diriklipúl and therefore we were obliged to repair with the rest of -the troops and the heavy baggage of the Pásha to Gumish Kala’a (Silver -Castle), which we reached after a six hour’s march. We remained here -three days till the falling of the snow had ceased. All those who -hastened to the fire lost their sight for some time, and those only -who did not approach it, but endured the cold, retained the use of -their eyes. Seventeen men lost either a leg or a hand or a foot by the -excessive cold, and the leg or hand being cut off, the stumps were -dipped into boiling resin, so that their cries pierced the air. - - -_Description of the town of Gumish._ - -It was built by the Byzantine Emperors and was conquered by Melek Ghází -of the Dánishmend family. When Bayazíd I. marched to the conquest of -Amasia the inhabitants of Gumish met him, and presented him with some -silver vases and the keys of the castle. The inhabitants are therefore -free of all duties, but it is incumbent upon them to work the silver -mines. The inspectorship is held by lease, and furnishes annually to -the Porte seventy quintals of pure silver, and one thousand pair of -horse-cloths. In the Ottoman Empire there are no less than seventy -silver mines, but this affords the purest silver; the goldsmith alloy -an hundred drachms of this pure silver with ten of copper, and yet -it is a good white silver, which receives the Imperial stamp. There -are seven veins underground, which increase from day to day. The -inhabitants of the town are all employed in the mines, and their -commander is the inspector of the silver mines. The judge, appointed -with an hundred and fifty aspers, may collect seven purses a year. The -castle of this town situated on a hill is in a ruined state and has -no accommodation at all within; being an inland castle it has neither -a garrison nor commander. There is a Serdár and a Kiaya-yerí of the -Janissaries, and the town consists of a thousand houses covered with -planks, eleven mosques, of which that in the market-place is the most -frequented, but no hospital, the salubrity of the air rendering one -superfluous. Its products are the purest silver and horse-cloths -and bags, which the Imperial stables and those of the principal -men of Constantinople are furnished with from hence. The gardens -produce good grapes. In the town are heaped up mounds of earth taken -from the mines. We remained here three days on account of the heavy -gales, and then advanced five hours to the south, suffering from -the snow, to Dankaza-koí, a village of an hundred houses belonging -to the jurisdiction of Gumish in the territory of Amasia. Near the -farm of Kosseh Sha’abán Páshá is the Pilgrimage of Bardáklí-bábá and -Akche-bábá, who are both buried here. The first gained his living by -making cans (Bardák) for which the village is still famous. We visited -the tomb of Bardáklí-bábá; after holding a council we approached, -amidst a thousand difficulties, the high mountain of Kirk Dilim, which -was passed with much suffering and the loss of many stragglers who -returned to Dánkaza. Alí Aghá, the Kiaya of the Páshá, encouraged some -brave lads, who had not yet lost their hands and feet, to wrap up the -feet of the horses and mules by tearing up many carpets and coverlets, -and in this way passed them over the snowy mountain of Kirk Dilim; but -the heavy baggage, the munition, cellar, kitchen, and artillery were -all left in the snow. The Kiaya of the Páshá again distributing money, -the bags and casks were dragged up and rolled over the snow. This -night was passed in a woody valley without the means of getting on, -and seventy men, who had lost their hands and feet, remained behind. -The next morning we continued our way amidst snow and storms through -the straight of Kirk Dilim, and arrived after eight hours painful -march at a village, the name of which has escaped my memory, whose -inhabitants had all fled upon the news of our arrival. Men and horses -during the night were nearly dying of hunger, and there was such a -gale and heavy storm of snow that in the morning it was five spans in -depth. On the signal of departure being given the Kullákjí, conductors -(Sarbán), and tent-pitchers (Mehter) assembled before the Páshá’s tent -and declared they were unable to stir. Ten piastres were promised to -the men, but they answered, “Health first, then wealth.” The Páshá -said, “My children, how is it possible to remain in this place, where -there is not a grain of provisions?” In short the Kullákjí (leaders) -could not be induced to move on until they had received a present of -fifteen purses from the Páshá. There was, however, such a storm of -wind, hail and snow that the horses danced like Dervishes Mevleví, and -the camels like Lúlús (Tatar robbers). The unhappy leaders of them -put their hands in their bosoms and uttered a piteous cry. Praise be -to God! we now entered a forest and were a little sheltered against -the wind and snow, and after a march of five hours arrived at the -great village of Bardákjí, in the jurisdiction of Gumish, consisting -of an hundred houses. From hence continuing our march to the south we -arrived in four hours at the station of Kirk Dilim, a place of two -hundred Mussulmen houses in the sanjak of Chorún. Here both men and -horses rested till the following day, when the weather clearing up we -proceeded through cultivated villages to the town of Chorúm, said to -have been built (God knows if truly) by Kilij Arslán, the Prince of -the Seljúk family, who sent his son Yakúb Mirza and some hundred sick -men to this town, where being cured, it received in consequence the -name of Chorúm. From the hands of the Seljúkides it passed into those -of the Dánishmend family from whom it was taken by Ilderím; it is now -the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the government of Sívás. His khass is three -hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets, and thirty-one timárs. There -is a Colonel (Alaí-beg) a Captain (Cherí-báshí) a judge appointed with -an hundred and fifty aspers, and receiving from its districts annually -five purses, a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Mohtessib, Súbáshí, -Inspector of the hall (Kapán Emíní) and Náíb of the town. The military -officers are in great favour because the troops are numerous and there -are a great number of bad men. Lodgings were positively refused to our -Páshá; but mediators were employed and documents were made out at the -Mehkemeh (Court of Justice), so that they were prevailed upon to give -us lodgings, but only for the space of three days. The town consists -of forty-two quarters in which are forty-two mosques, four thousand -three hundred houses covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; -nine mosques where the Friday prayer is performed, of which that of -Sultán Murad is the best, it had but one minareh which was throw down -by Ilderím Bayazíd. The mosque of Sultán Ala-ud-dín was repaired under -Sultán Súleimán by the architect Sinán; as it is situated in the -market-place it is much frequented. That of Murad covered with lead is -the finest. The new bath is a foundation belonging to the bath of Alí -Páshá at Tokát; in the palaces are many other baths. Of the colleges, -of which there are seven, that of Murad is the most frequented; there -are eleven schools for boys, seven kháns and eighteen fountains, -the water by which they are supplied was conducted hither by Sultán -Súleimán, in honour of the martyrs of Kerbela (who died of thirst). -The convents of Dervishes are three, but no house for reading the -korán or for tradition exists. The shops are three hundred, in which -all the necessaries of life are to be found, although this is a town -of Turkistán. The temperature of the climate gives red cheeks and good -proportions to the inhabitants, who almost all wear cloth. The fair sex -and the winter are both renowned. The Castle on the kiblah side of the -town has only been built for protection against riots and rebellion. -It has an iron gate, a commander and garrison. God knows! but it seems -to have been built since the Islám, because there is no trace of any -building of the time of the infidels. - -On the day we came here the late chief barber of the Sultán arrived in -the quality of Kapijí-báshí accompanied by forty other chamberlains, -saying, that he was the bearer of the diploma of the government of -Diárbekr. The Páshá surrounded himself with all his guards, Sárija, -Segbán, Gonullí (volunteers) three hundred pages and all the Levends. -The forty kapijís entered trembling and the Páshá having asked, where -the diploma was they had boasted of, was assailed all at once by -them, but before they were able to do any harm to him, they were all -disarmed and bound by his guards and soldiers. The Segbán and Sárija -called for the executioners and were going to cut off their heads, -when the principal men of the town kissed the earth before the Páshá, -and begged the lives of these kapijí-báshís, who were, they said, -only servants executing their master’s commands and therefore should -be spared. The Páshá yielding to their prayers set them at liberty, -instead of thrashing them to death as he ought to have done. Being -liberated they went to the Mehkemeh, called the Sanjak Beg, read the -firmán and demanded in consequence that the troops should be driven -out of the town. The inhabitants remonstrated against it, showing that -they might all be in danger of being cut to pieces and their houses -burned down, if they were to undertake the least thing against the -troops. The Páshá being made acquainted in time of what was going on, -sent word to the kapijís immediately to quit the place if they wished -to escape in safety. Thus they were all driven out of the town. The -next day a messenger was despatched to Várvár Alí Páshá to acquaint -him with what had happened. The inhabitants finding that our Páshá was -a goodnatured and righteous Vezír gave him the salutary advice not to -march to Constantinople, but always to remain at one or two journeys -distance from Várvár Alí Páshá, and to take his station, until the snow -should melt and the weather clear up, at Tokát or Kázova. The Páshá -approving of their advice, visited the tomb of Sheikh Olván Chelebí, -the son of Ashik Páshá, and proceeded to Tokát. In this plain we -remained ten days, during which the Páshá received letters from Várvár -Alí Páshá, exhorting him to be on his guard, and, as the spring was now -approaching and the weather clearing up, to collect as many troops as -he could for the march to Constantinople. The Páshá made as though he -were going to Angora, and on the eleventh day we arrived in the plain -of Chorúm at the convent of Sídim Sultán, a convent of bareheaded and -barefooted Begtáshí, where the Páshá was lodged and splendidly feasted. -The village of Kara Kechelí of two hundred houses in the territory -of Chorúm is an hour’s distance from the red river. Here the snow -beginning to fall and the wind to blow, the Sárija and Segbán drove the -families out of their houses, threw the cradles with the children in -them on to the snow, dug out the gates and thresholds to bring their -horses into the rooms to the fire, and committed the same excesses, -that they did at Gumish and Dánkaza, and which exceeded even the -tyranny of Yessúf Hejáj. The next day we left Kara Kechelí and instead -of passing over the bridge of Cháshnegír on the red river, proceeded -to the passage of Kara Yechíd; which was indeed a bad measure, because -the passage is a cruel one. It had ceased snowing but was so piercingly -cold that the men and horses trembled like leaves; nevertheless the -orders for the passage were given. It commenced with the tent-camels, -the kitchen, stable and other heavy baggage of the Páshá’s led by -twenty able pilots. Two hundred strings of camels and one hundred of -mules belonging to the Páshá, as well as mine and the Kiaya’s passed -over, and, went with all this heavy luggage to Kúrdseraí, but myself -and the Kiaya remained on this side of the river waiting to see the -passage of the baggage of all the Aghás. In the morning their heavy -things arrived along with the treasure-camels of the Páshá, but at the -moment the pilots had entered the river with them, there arose such a -storm of hail and snow, of thunder and of lightning, that the strings -of mules and camels were broken, numbers of them upset in the middle -of the river, and a great many lost. Great masses of ice, the shape of -mill-wheels, now began to float down the river and blocked the shores -at the bridge of Cháshnegír. In the midst of the confusion which took -place on both shores of the river, the Páshá arrived with his music -sounding. He distributed large sums of money amongst the inhabitants of -Kúrdseraí, who rescued the men and animals, while the troops on both -sides of the river were running about crying and lamenting. Some brave -fellows swam amongst the drifting shoals, but others were submerged, -and camels, mules, horses and men, were floating about in confusion -and dismay; some of whom were drowned and some saved. Some Kurds and -Turcomans swam into the midst of the ice and rescued many camels, mules -and horses, but as those who had crossed had left their clothes on this -side the river, it so happened that a great number perished from cold. -Of all the baggage, only that which had passed over before the ice -began to drift was saved, the rest was lost. An hundred and sixty men, -more than a thousand horses and mules were drowned, but only a small -number of camels. The drowned men were for the most part Kulenkjí, -Sárija and Segbán; some going to paradise and others to hell: the -latter were at least delivered from the hell of winter. This horrible -discomfiture lasted only from the morning till afternoon, when the -drifting of the ice and the storm suddenly ceased, so that the Tatars, -Delís, and Gonillás, who had waited till then, crossed over without the -least difficulty. Witnessing these misfortunes I reflected on the cruel -conduct of those troops, who had behaved in so barbarous a manner in -the passage at Chardáklí-púlí, and now at Kúrd-dereh: burning down the -houses, throwing infants on the snow and wounding men and women with -battle-axes. The inhabitants of the villages came crying and lamenting -to the Páshá,; but what was to be done with this crowd of Sárija and -Segbán, of whom the Páshá stood in need and whose excesses therefore -he was obliged to tolerate. I, poor Evliya, whilst witnessing those -scenes, shivered at the thought of the vengeance which God would send -one day on those cruel troops. - - -_Praise of Sheikh Bárdáklí-bábá._ - -Near the above mentioned place is the pilgrimage of a Saint called -Bárdáklí-bábá, a disciple of Sheikh Hájí Bairám. He obtained his living -by making cans, which afforded a continual supply of water for the -ablutions of his disciples. His can is suspended from his tomb and -therefore he is called Bárdáklí-bábá, the father of cans or tankards. -With the leave of the tomb-keeper, I took down the suspended can to -perform my ablutions and found it full of clear water, though covered -with the dust of forty years. The Páshá’s Imám and some others of his -suite were astonished at this extraordinary sight, they asked the -keeper if he would swear the can had not been recently filled with -water. He swore that it had not been touched for forty years until -I, poor Evliya, had taken it down to perform my ablutions. The Imám -and the others said, “Well then Evliya hang it up again,” but I being -determined to carry my point would not until I had performed the -ablution in the legal way. The Imám and four other persons then did -the same, but the water was not diminished in the least to our great -astonishment. We again hung up the can, which was of a reddish colour, -and on its side was written the verse of the Súra Ra’ad, “He sent water -from heaven,” the number 66626, three Ks, two Js and one M, the figure -of a glass and of a can. I now began to recite the Korán according to -the intention of the Saint, with whom I made spiritual acquaintance, -remarking the Prophet’s tradition, “If you are perplexed in your -affairs look for assistance from the Inhabitants of the tombs.” The -mirror of my heart was polishing and rubbing off the rust of sadness, -when a woman walked in, who threw the body of a dead child and herself -on the threshold of the tomb, crying and lamenting that her child had -been killed by the troops, who had cast it on the snow, and calling -down divine vengeance upon them, through the aid of the Prophet and the -Saints. She was followed by a great number of injured men, who united -their prayers and imprecations with hers. I trembled at hearing them, -and drawing near with a friendly face, kissing their hands and cheeks, -I said to them, “People of Mohammed, I also belong to the troops of -the Páshá, who, God knows, does not approve of their excesses; but he -has been forced to collect them in order to save his own head, which -is endangered by the Grand Vezír, Ahmed Páshá, on whom must be laid -the fault of all this.” An old man gave me some comfort by saying, -that I was not included in this imprecation, which was to fall only on -the troops; and a good deal of it was realized at the above described -passage of the river, where so many lost their lives and goods, while -I, poor Evliya, God be thanked for it! passed over safely to the -opposite side. - -The borough of Kúrdlar-seraí (wolves’ palace) is situated in the -Sanjak of Kánghrí in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik on the bank of the -red river and consists of four hundred houses covered with terraces, -a mosque, a khán and a bath. Here the Páshá appointed two Aghás to -watch the endeavours made to retrieve from the river some of the lost -baggage. Moving on to the north we arrived at the village of Boyalí, -situated in the territory of Kanghrí; five hours further, the village -Akche-Koyúnlí of an hundred Turcoman houses; and three hours further, -the village of Kojí-bábá, situated in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik, of -two hundred Turcoman houses, which do not appear above ground but are -all below it, with stables, kitchens and sitting-rooms. The reason for -the construction of these subterraneous houses is the violence of the -winter; they are all built of a soft stone, which has the appearance -of having been whitened with chalk. Chests, boxes, and rafters are all -cut in this stone, which is as soft as cheese; the houses are so large, -that a thousand men might be lost in them, and yet is there nothing -seen of them above ground. Here is the pilgrimage of Kojí-bábá, one -of the disciples of Hájí-begtásh. There is no other building but the -convent; the tomb is adorned with lamps and candelabras. His banner, -drum, habit and carpet are all preserved as though he were himself -present. The Turcomans have great faith in this saint. At Keskin (the -name of this place) is also the tomb of Sheikh Ibrahím Tenúrí Ben -Sarráf Hossein, one of the disciples of Ak-shems-ud-dín; he was born -at Sivás. Five hours further to the north is the village of Sheikh -Shámí of the order of Bairámís, whose name was Hamza; the sect of the -Hamzeví take their name from him. Many miracles are recorded of him, -one of them is the spring which he called forth by his staff and which -is, therefore, actually called the Spring of the Staff. He is buried -beneath a high cupola near the mosque which he himself built, but which -is not covered with lead. Its mihráb is of very great dimensions, and -the stones are adorned with inscriptions in Kúfí, Jellí, Mostea’assemí, -Ríhání, and Thúlúth characters. The verses: “Every time Zacharias went -before the Mihráb,” and “He was standing praying before the Mihráb,” -and the verses Kursí and Emen-er-ressúl are written upon it. On both -sides it is carved and sculptured in a most astonishing way with -flowers and arabesque ornaments, so that the stone seems rather to -be engraved or painted than sculptured. Some say it is the work of -Sheikh Shám himself, and it is indeed probable because it is such a -wonderful work, like the paintings of Mání and Behzád Aghá Riza Wání. -Before his tomb rises the Spring of the Staff which is much visited. -From hence we went five hours to the north to the village of Hossein -Aghá in the district of Kala’ajik and five hours further to the village -of Kala’ajik itself, which was built by the Prince of Brússa Sirúna -for his daughter. Topál the commander of Kastemúní conquered it; and -he resisted the Ottoman power, till at last Ilderím Bayazíd took by -surprise this castle, which is not to be conquered in any other way. It -is now the seat of a Subáshí of the Sanjak of Kánghrí, and a judge is -appointed to it with an hundred and fifty aspers, and collects from the -districts annually four purses; there is also a Dizdár and a garrison -of twenty men. - - -_Form of the Castle._ - -It is situated on a high reddish cliff, towering into the clouds, as -though built by Ferhád. The walls are sixty royal cubits high, as it -is an isolated rock there are no ditches. An iron-gate opens to the -kiblah side and within the castle are about twenty houses, a mosque, a -magazine of corn, a cistern, and six small guns. The inhabitants of the -neighbouring tracts deposit in this castle their effects and precious -things from fear of rebels and robbers, and the commander is the keeper -of these deposited goods. It is not commanded by any neighbouring -height and is surrounded with gardens. One the kiblah-side is a -well-built suburb, but without fortifications (robát), consisting of -two thousand houses partly covered with bricks and partly with earth; -the largest is the palace of Shehsuvár Páshá, they all face towards -the kiblah-side; the streets instead of being paved with stone, are -all strewn with sand. There are seventeen mosques, that in the market -place having one mináreh, thirteen schools for boys, a small bath, -three khans and six coffee-houses; the air is good, but not the water. -We lodged here in the palace of Shehsuvár Páshá, and I thanked God that -I could change clothes, and lie quietly down after the many fatigues -undergone. - - -_The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán._ - -There is but one steep path from the castle, at the bottom of which -near the market is the tomb of this saint in a narrow place. On leaving -it we marched five hours to the North to the village of Kúrbághlí, in -the territory of Kánghrí and the district of Kala’ajik, of two hundred -houses with mosques and gardens, where Sheikh Abd-allah, the son of -Sheikh Shámí, is buried; his tomb is covered with a simple roof, and -is without a convent. Five hours further to the North we came to the -village of Nenegler, in the territory of Kala’ajik, a Turkish village -of an hundred houses; a cubit of snow fell during the night, so that -nobody could leave their lodgings. In the morning when departure was -sounded the horses were loaded with the greatest pain; Turks served as -guides, and thus we marched three hours to the straight of Alák-púlí, -where we were assailed by such a storm and rain, that the confusion -and horror was general, and many lost their lives. The Aghás of the -Páshá, and even his treasurers left the treasure and fled away. Mustafa -Beg the son of the Páshá with his governor (Lálá), master (Khoja) and -servants were missing; the strings of mules and camels were broken and -they were straying on the mountains. I halted a little in a sheltered -valley and then with six of my boys and three packhorses looked for a -house, where I found three others of my slaves and ten Cháshnegírs; so -that we were now twenty-five persons. Thus we passed the straight of -Sárí Alák and arrived happily at the plain on the other side without -knowing where we were going to. - - (_Here six pages of the original are omitted, which give a detailed - account of Evliya’s falling into a nest of robbers, headed by - Hyder-zádeh, Kátirjí-zádeh and other robbers, who held their meeting - at Háji-bábá’s, an old rogue. The robbers, on being informed by Evliya - of the Páshá’s being near, made off, and Evliya was kept by Háji-bábá - until rescued by his people and other armed men of the Páshá’s suite, - with whom he shared the rich presents which he forced out of Háji-bábá - upon taking an oath that he would not betray this den of robbers. - Evliya again joined the Páshá at the village of Hossein Aghá._) - -The village of Hossein Aghá is situated in the district of Jubúk-owassá -on a high hill. This is the pilgrimage of Ghazí Hossein of Malatia -the father of Sídí Battál. Where there are more than an hundred -Dervishes Begtáshí versed in Arabic and Persian knowledge. The tomb is -surrounded with golden candlesticks, Koráns, &c. There are two places -of religious exercise for the summer and for the winter. The valleys of -Jubúk, Yebán, and Merbút are at the foot of this convent: Every year a -Mevlúd or birth-feast is held here, when forty to fifty thousand men -assemble to celebrate the feast of Hossein Sídí Batál’s father, one -of the descendants of Imám Hossein, and who like him was killed by -the hands of the Infidels. I gave to the Dervishes ten piastres for -alms, immolated three victims and received the Sheikh’s benediction -amidst the general shout of Allah! At the foot of the hill I met my -Lord the Páshá with whom during ten days I overran the plain of Jubúk, -as if I were going on conscription. This plain comprehends seven -districts, and seventy villages. We spent ten more days on the plain -of Yebán, containing an hundred cultivated villages belonging to the -jurisdiction of Angora, and ten days more in the jurisdiction of Jorba -of eighty-six villages. We passed a month in these three plains and -celebrated Nevrúz (the spring’s commencement) near Angora. The weather -now was mild, but we were all exhausted from the continual fatigue of -loading and unloading heavy loads. At last we returned to the village -of Hossein in the commencement of the year 1058 (1648). From hence we -marched in seven hours to the north amidst cultivated villages and -arrived at Angora. - - -_Description of Angora._ - -On the day that our quartermasters entered the town with the tails it -was declared to them in the court of justice, that the Páshá would not -be allowed to enter the fortress on account of his intentions being -known to be those of a rebel, but that in consequence of the great -number of friends and clients in the town, he would be well treated -and lodged there for three days. We entered with a great Istikbál -(procession of meeting) and were saluted by the firing of twenty -guns. I was lodged in the house of Keder-zádeh and went straight to -the convent of Hájí-bairám, where I read the Korán, and fulfilled the -vow I had made when in the hands of the robbers, distributing to the -Dervishes an hundred piastres of the money obtained at the village of -Bálik-hissár from the robbers. - -Angora was conquered by Yakúbsháh, the Prince of Kútahia of the Germián -family and by his Vezir Hezár-dínar, and then by Sultán Orkhán. If -Angora is viewed from the village of Erkiksú, which is a journey’s -distance from the north, it appears a brilliant place; for the houses -rising one behind the other, similarly to Buda on the Danube, makes it -look like a ship of transport (Maúna) which has set up its trees and -adorned its head. Buda, Ván and Angora are the three first fortresses -of the Empire: its name (Engúrí) is Persian, given from the quantity -of grapes (Engúr) which are found here. It is said to have been built -by a Byzantine Emperor, and employed forty thousand workmen for seven -years, who each day received forty nuts and a loaf apiece. It is -also called the leafy castle (Motabbak), because its different parts -cover one another like leaves of a tree, and the castle of the chains -(Selasil) because the Emperor Heraclius surrounded it with seven chains -on the birth year of the Prophet. The Mogols call it Ankra; the Tatars, -Kermen Ankra; the Germans, Constantinople (!) the Turks, Aidín Karí, -Unkúr and Ungorú. In the Imperial Registers it is spelled Ankra. It -is the seat of a Sanjak Beg in the province of Anatoli, and has been -given many times as living (Arpalik) to Vezírs of three tails. The -khass of the Páshá is two hundred and sixty three thousand four hundred -aspers, fourteen ziámets, and two hundred and fifty seven timárs, an -Alai-beg (Colonel) Cherí-beg (Captain) and Yúzbáshí (Lieutenants). -The Zaims and Timariots with the Jebelle make three thousand armed -men. The Súbashís depending from Angora are, those of the town, that -of Mertátova, of Yebánava, of Jubúkova, and of Jorba, which annually -import forty thousand piastres. The Judge is a Molla of five hundred -aspers, whose revenues may be calculated at twenty purses a year. There -are also a Sheikh-ul-islám or Muftí, a Nakíb-ul-eshraf, or head of -the Emírs, Seids and Sherífs (the relations of the Prophet), a Serdár -of the Janissaries, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a Náíb of the town -and a Mohtessib (provost and lieutenant of police) the commanding -officers of the Jebejí and Topjí, a Dizdár (commander of the castle) -and a garrison of an hundred men. The castle is situated on a high -mountain, mocking all assaults, rising in four natural terraces, so -that there is a distance of three hundred paces from one enclosure to -the other; the height of each wall is sixty cubits and the breadth -ten royal cubits; the foundations are all built on vaults. The castle -forms an oblong square from east to west. It has four iron-gates one -behind the other towards the west, each strengthened behind by iron -cages. These iron cages or gratings are thrown before the gates in -time of sieges, the bars are of the thickness of an arm. The gate on -the extremity of the fortress looking to the Horse market opens to the -west, on the upper part of it are suspended the arms of old knights, -and the bones of a whale. The guards keep watch here day and night. -If the commander leaves the castle the garrison are empowered to kill -him, or at least to exile him for ever. Abaza, the rebel, besieged -this town with an hundred thousand men, and took possession of the -lower town, but wounded by a cannon shot from the upper castle, he -was obliged to return to Erzerúm; the commander ever since has been -prohibited from leaving the castle, and the watchmen all night long -cry, Yegdir-allah, One is God! It has no ditch on one side on account -of the rocks, and it is not easily to be attacked by mines because its -quarters rise one behind the other. The four enclosures have eighteen -hundred battlements, and its circumference is four thousand paces. On -the east side is a place of pilgrimage situated on a hill, it is called -Khizrlik; this hill looks over the town, which is of no consequence as -it is not within gun-shot distance. The inner castle is defended by -sixty-eight guns, but none of them are large. The houses number six -hundred and are all terraced, but have neither gardens nor vineyards; -the old mosque was formerly a convent. The lower town was surrounded -with a wall by Ahmed Páshá against the rebels. It has four gates, -and its circumference on the three sides, on which it does not join -the citadel, is six thousand paces. On the east side of the superior -castle you descend into the valley of Khizrlik by a road leading down -for fetching water. In the inner castle are cisterns and magazines; -but in the lower town are no cisterns, because water is in abundance, -there being an hundred and seventy fountains, three thousand wells, -seventy-six mosques, those of Ahmed Páshá and Hájí Beirám the saint, -having been built by the great Sinán, fifteen convents of Dervishes -with mihráb (mosques) the greatest of them is that of Hájí Bairám, -where three hundred Dervishes of his order follow the rules of their -founder. Their first patron is Khoja Abd-ul-Kádír Jeilání, by whom they -ascend to the prophet; in Rúmelí they are called also Hamzeví from -Sheikh Hamza. There is likewise a fine convent of Mevlevís founded -by Ahmed Páshá. The colleges are richly endowed, three houses for -lectures on tradition, an hundred and eighty schools for boys, two -hundred baths, seventy palaces with gardens; all these buildings are -of brick not stone, and covered with earth instead of with bricks, six -thousand six hundred and sixty houses, and two hundred sebíl-kháneh -or establishments for distributing water. The shops are two thousand, -and there is an elegant bezestán with four gates with chains; the -market places are almost all on elevated spots; the coffee houses and -barber’s-shops are always crowded; the public places and streets are -paved with white stones. Its divines, poets, and learned and pious men -are innumerable, although it is a Turkish town, it counts more than two -thousand boys and girls who know the Korán by heart; some thousand also -know by heart the Mohammedieh, or works on the Mohammedan religion by -Yázijí-zadeh Mohammed Efendí. Some of its inhabitants have the repute -of performing miracles like Abd-ur-rahman Efendí, a pious man, who is -free of four enticements, viz. hair, brows, beard and eye-lashes; he is -descended from Hájí Bairám’s family, who had the same advantage. - - -_Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint._ - -In his youth he was once invited by a cunning woman, who in order -to seduce the Saint, with whom she was in love, began to praise his -hair, beard, brows and eye-lashes. The Saint retired into a corner and -prayed to God that he might be delivered of these four inducements to -lust, and become of an ugly form; he then returned without a hair into -the woman’s presence, who shocked at his ugliness had him turned out -of doors by her maidens. Hence the descendants of the Saint by his -daughter actually wear short beards (Kosseh). - -The rich inhabitants of the town wear Ferrájes of sable, those of -the middle class, Serhaddís of cloth and Contoshes, the workmen -Ferrájes of white linen, the Ulemas, of wool, and the women also of -wool of different colours. The climate and temperature being mild the -inhabitants are fair with red faces. - - -_The Eatables and Products._ - -The calves’ and sheep’s feet of Angora are the counter part of those of -Kútahia; the salted flesh (Pássdirma) of its goats has an excellent -perfume. These goats called Teftekgechí are of a brilliant whiteness; -of the hair is made the soft (Shalloon) of different, colours which is -worn by Monarchs. If the wool is cut by scissors it becomes coarse, but -if pulled out it is as soft and as fine as the silk of Eyúb (Job). The -poor goats, when the hair is pulled out in that way, raise lamentable -cries; to avoid this some wash them with a mixture of chalk and ashes, -by which they are enabled to pull out the hair without difficulty or -giving pain; thus the poor goats are stripped naked. The hair is then -worked into Shalloons, and both men and women are busy at making or -selling them. The Franks tried to transport the goats of Angora into -their own country, but God be praised! they degenerated into common -goats, and the stuff wove from their hair was no Súf (Shalloon). They -then took the hair of the Angora-goat and tried to work it into Sof, -but were never able to give it the true lustre (Máj). They now make of -it for their monks a kind of black shalloon, which however has neither -colour nor lustre. The inhabitants of Angora say that the exclusive -working of fine shalloon is granted to them by the miracles of Hájí -Bairám, and the water and air. Indeed the sof (Shalloon) of Angora is -the most famous in the world; the chalk also of Angora is renowned. -Its inhabitants make great journies to Frengistán and Egypt to sell -their Shalloons. There are a great number of Jews, but few Greeks and -Copts. The inhabitants are a goodnatured hospitable people. It is an -incomparable town, which may God preserve till the end of time in the -hands of the Ottomans! - -The day I entered Angora I visited the tomb of Hájí Bairám, recited -the Korán and then returned to my lodgings where I soon fell asleep. -In a dream I saw a man with a yellow beard, honey-coloured cowl and -a turban of twelve folds on his head, who upbraided me for having -visited Hájí Bairám’s tomb and passed by his. I asked, who he was? and -he said, “Didst thou not call on Sárí Sáltik Dedeh, when in thy youth -thou performed prayer in the Convent of the Wrestlers at Constantinople -in Sultán Murad’s presence? didst thou not say that I was known here -by the name of Er Sultán? I am lying here under a thick cupola near -the wood market, where thou shouldest visit me and give me joy with a -fátihah. I will send to-morrow morning a man of my resemblance, who -shall lead thee to my tomb.” I awoke, said my prayers, and was waiting, -when a man came of the form of him I saw in my dream, and told me, -that Er Sultán had appeared to him in a dream and had commanded him -to show me his burying place. This man had a radiant face, and his -voice was as hollow as if it came from underground. We passed through -eleven quarters of the town and visited in passing all the tombs of -Saints, which I shall mention by and by, if it pleases God! At last -there appeared on the western side of the wood-market a small cupola, -which my companion pointed out to me, saying, “This is the tomb of Er -Sultán.” Whilst I was looking at it on my right side, he disappeared -on my left, and I was at a loss to know what had become of him and -fancied that he must have walked through a door covered with felt -which was near me. I opened it, walked in, and saw it was a Búza-house -full of riot. Ashamed of having got into such society I left the room -immediately and made the best of my way to the cupola which had been -shown to me. There I laid my face on the threshold and prayed to the -Saint, saying, that I had arrived by his blessing, and begged he would -not let me depart void of benediction in this and the other world. I -now commenced the recital of the Korán, and sheltering myself under -the green Súf with which the coffin was covered, said, “Protection, -protection, O Er Sultán!” I then fell asleep and sweated to such -a degree that when I woke my clothes were wet. Er Sultán appeared -to me again and I begged that he would not let me go hence void of -benediction. He replied, “Thou wilt not be void of it, because thou -art a Háfiz (knowing the Korán by heart) and a lover of the Saints -(Evliya) whose tombs thou always visitest. I led thee myself to this -place, I am a perfect leader (Murshid Kámil), thy path is straight. Be -merciful to the poor and weak, and tell thy Páshá not to molest the -inhabitants of Angora. God will grant to thee travel and good health, -and in thy last moments faith. Eat, speak, sleep and know little, but -do a great deal, for actions are necessary to discover the way to -God, because He hath said in the Korán, ‘Good words ascend, and good -works exalt.’ Honour thy parents, and the Sheikhs (Pír), and thy end -shall be happy. Say now a fátihah with this intent.” Here I was awoke -by a noise and voices saying, “Is there no tomb-keeper?” I arose from -beneath the cover of the coffin and to the question of the visitors, -“Whether I was the tomb-keeper?” replied, “Yes!” When they were gone I -returned home shedding many tears, and related my vision to the Páshá, -who also related to me a similar dream that he had had. He instantly -gave orders that all the Sárija and Segbán should deliver up their arms -and leave in quiet the inhabitants of Angora. The Páshá had had some -idea of shutting himself up in the town and declaring it in a state of -rebellion, but he immediately abandoned it after these visions. I then -made it a duty to myself to visit every day, during my stay at Angora, -the tombs of Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán and others of the Saints, which -I am now about to mention. - - -_Pilgrimages._ - -Sheikh Hájí Bairám, the pole and column of sanctity, was born on the -bank of the river Chepúl in the village of Solkoi and was the disciple -of Sheikh Hámed. At the time when Sultán Báyazíd I. was at Adrianople, -Sheikh Bairám preached there in the old mosque, and the pulpit which -he ascended is still shown. Different Sheikhs who tried to ascend -this pulpit could never utter a word, because none were worthy to -preach after him in the same place. After his death, which happened -in Báyazíd’s reign, he was buried beneath a high cupola in the inner -castle of Angora. Sheikh Er Sultán, the leader of divine truth, the -discoverer of mysteries, called Mahmúd by his proper name, was born at -Angora, and reposes beneath a small cupola in the wood market. East -of Angora on a high mountain is the pilgrimage of Hízr, a pleasure -place from which a fine view of the town is enjoyed. This Saint was -the disciple of Sheikh Hossám-ud-dín, and being imprisoned at Angora -he gave the order one evening to be buried the next day, and in the -morning, without any body having been near him, he was found washed, -perfumed, and ready for burial. Sheikh Kátib Saláh-ud-dín was a great -astronomer, a second Pythagoras. There are a great number of other -Saints, which I do not mention, as I could not visit their tombs during -my short stay. - -The day of our departure being fixed, I made myself as light as -possible, by giving away a part of what I had taken from the robbers’ -den in alms, and the rest as a pawn to the master of the house where I -lodged and got ready with seven Mamlúcs and one light pack horse. In -the morning I heard an uproar and riot by which heaven and earth was -thrown into confusion. Some were exclaiming that they were satisfied -with the Páshá, others that he was a rebel for having united with -Várvár Páshá, and that it was necessary to obey the Emperor’s command. -In short Mustafa, one of the Emperor’s Kapijí, had arrived with forty -of his companions; they had shut the gates of the castle and proclaimed -a general call to arms (Nefír-a’ám). Most fortunately the Páshá, who -had been terrified by a disastrous dream, was gone incognito to visit -the tomb of Sídí Battál’s father, and could not therefore be found in -his palace, which was searched in every part by the Kapijí. The Páshá -of course did not re-enter the town but repaired to the village of -Erkeksú, which is to the north of it, and sent a letter to his Kiaya to -request him to send his troops. In the mean time the Páshá not having -been found the gates were opened and a proclamation issued, that all -who belonged to the Páshá were to leave the town instantly; I therefore -took leave of the master of my house and Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán, and -arrived after seven hours’ march at the village of Erkeksú consisting -of two hundred houses and a mosque at the foot of a rock. Seven hours -further on we arrived at the great place Istanozí, with a judge of one -hundred and fifty aspers, in the district of Mortátova, bordering on -a valley, on each side of which are towering rocks; it has a thousand -houses without gardens, a mosque, a bath and market: the river Erkek -flows through it. This place had formerly two great gates at either -end, which were destroyed in the time of Murad III. by the rebel -Korayazijí; if these two gates were restored it would be impossible -to take the place, because it is situated between two walls of high -rocks on which eagles and vultures build their nests, but to which -man scarcely dares to lift up his eyes. These rocks are as tremendous -as those of Ván, Shabín and Márdín, some of them are excavated below -like Mount Bisútún and some are shaped above like dragons, lions and -elephants. The inhabitants are for the most part Armenians. About a -thousand looms are employed in working Súf. This place being enclosed -by two rocks the air is very warm. The Armenian girls here are famed -for their beauty. There are caverns which can hold a thousand horses. -Formerly an old castle stood here on a rock. - -The day we entered the town there was a great conflux of men to see -tumblers and wrestlers exhibit their tricks; Istanoz and the town of -Kodoz in Anatoli being the places where tumblers and wrestlers assemble -to make bets. They stretch the rope from one rock to the other and -place watchmen at each end, that enemies may not cut it when they -are dancing on it. The rocks and the valley beneath are crowded with -spectators and on both sides of the river, which flows through the -valley, tents are pitched for the spectators. We witnessed during three -days the tricks of seventy six tumblers, who were followed by three -hundred scholars, to whom they gave lessons in their art. - - (_The Description of the tricks, and an account of two letters from - and to Vávár Páshá, are here omitted._) - -Having received the letters of My Lord the Páshá I passed Hossein Ghází -and Bálik-hissár, halted at the village of Sárí Alán, and further on -passed Kala’ajik, Sheikh Shámí, Akche-koyúnli, and the river Kizil -Irmák with great ease at Kárdlar, heard that Várvár Páshá had left the -station of Túrhál, and met him further on to the eastward at Gergezár. -I first went as the rule requireth to his kiaya, who conducted me -to the presence of the Páshá. He was seated in a tent, like Solomon -surrounded by many thousand Sárija and Segbán. I kissed the ground -and delivered the letter in the usual form. Having looked into my -face and said, “Art not thou Evliya Chelebí, who at the mosque of Aya -Sofia recited in the night Kadr, the Korán in eight hours? and who -was received by Sultán Murad amongst the pages of the Kíldár.” Having -replied, “Yes,” he asked further in what office I was to the Páshá. I -said, that on the way to Erzerúm I was head of the Muezzins, but that -he afterwards made me clerk of the Custom-house and sent me three times -into Persia, and that now I was his Imám and intimate companion. The -servants having been ordered to withdraw he called the Diván Efendí -and read the letter. “It is a pity,” said he, “that your Páshá did not -with such an army shut himself up at Angora; he might have played the -devil there, and by this glorious deed have hung his sword in the skies -(like that of Orion).” Rejoiced, however, at the number of our troops -he gave me an hundred zechins, a rosary of corals and a watch set -with jewels. I was also invested with a magnificent sable pelisse and -recommended as a guest to the Khazinedár. - -The same day news arrived that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and seven Vezírs -had taken post at the bridge of Osmánjik and the rocks of Sárimshik, -where they were entrenching themselves; and that Hossein the Páshá of -Amasia had closed the pass (Púl) of Diriklí and carried the population -away to the mountains. Upon this news Várvár Alí Páshá directed his -march straight to the passage of the Kizil Irmák. Our march was, from -Kiraz to Dánkaza seven hours, to Bardáklí-bábá seven hours and to the -river Kizil Irmák six hours. The passage of the river was effected in -the best order, without the least harm happening to any body. We halted -at Airak which lies north of the Kizil Irmák in the Sanjak of Kangrú; -it has an hundred houses and a mosque. We here visited the tomb of -Mohammed Sháh Dedeh, who came with Hájí Begtásh from Khorassan to the -court of Bayazid I., a large hospitable convent of an hundred Dervishes -Begtáshí. I witnessed the Páshá perform his visit to the tomb with a -devotion and a faith outshining that of many preachers from the pulpit. -The tomb is surrounded with censers, vases for rose-water, lamps and -candelabra. Every year the Sheikh of this convent kills a horse and -abandons the carcase to the eagles and vultures of the rocks, who -live upon it till the next year. The Sheikh has bred eagles instead -of falcons for hawking beasts of all kind. From hence we marched -for three hours along the bank of the Kizil Irmák to the village of -Tordúk, in the territory of Kánghrí. At the convent of Hassám Efendí -a great repast was given to the Páshá. Three hours further on we -came to the convent of Kúm-bábá, and then we entered the Keskin of -the Turcomans in the land of Kánghrí. Having overran it for ten days -we halted on the eleventh at the village of Sálí. I perceived that -the army was preparing for battle and learned that spies had brought -the news, that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who had been named commander -against Várvár, was ready to give him battle on the following day. The -troops having armed during the night, the Páshá put himself in the -morning at the head of six thousand men of light troops, and pushed on -for seven hours towards the kiblah. Here the two armies engaged and -that of Koprilí was entirely routed; a great number were killed and -the rest dispersed or made prisoners. Amongst the last was Mohammed -Koprilí Páshá himself, the Páshá of Amasia, Kor Hossein, and the Páshá -of Kara Shehr, both of two tails, who were obliged to walk on foot -with chains on their feet and blocks on their necks, along with the -tails of Várvár. Such is the state of the world, that these great -and powerful men were now in the power of the Sárija and Segbán, who -tortured and killed their men before their eyes and the executioners -flung their swords over their necks. In brief a Vezír (Koprilí) and -five Begler-begs were bound to the poles of Várvár’s tent, who elated -with this victory declared now more than ever open rebellion, collected -all kinds of rabble, wrote letters to Begs and Begler-begs enforcing -them to come and join him with their troops, and in fact collected -an army of thirty-seven thousand men. When we arrived at the village -of Búzoghlán, in the Sanjak of Kanghrú, I waited on him wishing him -joy of his victory, and begging he would despatch me with the letters -expected. I endeavoured to persuade him to be mild and merciful, and -to pardon and set at liberty his prisoners, according to the text, “O -God! Thou art all-pardoning, Thou likest pardon, pardon me.” He however -remained obstinate, saying, I should see in a few days what would -happen when his friends little Chaúsh Páshá, Ipshír Páshá and Shehsuvár -Oghlí Páshá should arrive to join him. He was an open frank man, but -extremely simple and of little judgment, and therefore blindly believed -in the assurances of these Páshás; and being overjoyed with the news -he had received from them, he despatched me with letters to my master, -presenting me with an hundred piastres, a completely caparisoned horse -from Koprilí’s stable, and a complete dress. - -From Yúz Oghlán in the Sanjak of Kánghru I rode for three days trusting -in God, left Angora on my right and met with the Páshá on the plain -of Múrtát. The Páshá hearing of Várvár’s blind confidence glowed with -anger and said, “He shall see it, the blockhead (Potúr).” He then -gave me Ipshír Páshá’s letter, which he had sent him to read, and I -saw it was full of flattery and deceit. The Páshá was about to answer -this letter, when a Khassekí and Kapijí-bashí arrived with Kiátib -Alí Chelebí, the Khazinedár of Seyavúsh Aghá Kiátib Alí Chelebí. The -Imperial rescript was instantly read, and contained the most positive -orders to join till the first of Jemází-ul-akhir the united troops of -Ipshír, Chaúsh, Bákí, Ketgáj and Sídí Páshá against Várvár, whose head -or the Páshá’s was required. If he refused to comply all his property -was to be confiscated, and his children and relations killed; but -under the supposition of ready obedience the Governorship of Egypt -was conferred upon him. The Páshá made immediate obeisance, ordered -the tails to proceed, gave to the Khassekí a purse for the expenses -of the road, and recommended him as a guest to his kiaya. The next -day the Cháhnegír (head carver) of Várvár arrived from Constantinople -with a Khattí-sheríf of the following tenor: “My Lálá, (Governor) thy -fault is pardoned, but the rebellion of Defterdár Oghlí, who wished -to put himself in possession of Erzerúm and Angora, is evident. His -head or yours is demanded. If you send the first the Governorship of -Egypt is assured to you.” The Páshá remained dumb at the sight of this -Khattí-sheríf and instantly despatched me back with that which he had -received to Várvár. - - (_Here follows the relation of Várvár’s complete defeat by Ipshír - Páshá by whom he was ensnared; occupying three sheets of the - original._) - -Evliya at last, afraid for his head, waited on Ipshír Páshá and asked -for letters, that he might return as he came. “Here,” said Ipshír -showing Várvár’s dead body, “is the man from whom you may ask your -expedition.” Evliya begged to be spared as he was no rebel and no -Sanjak Beg. Ipshír Páshá laughed and said, “What art thou doing at thy -master’s; wert thou not previously with Melek Ahmed Páshá?” “By God,” -I, poor Evliya, answered, “I am the common servant and joint subject of -two Vezírs, whom I accompany alternately as they come into high offices -for the pleasure of travelling. Defterdár Zádeh must now be removed -from office at this place, and your Excellency is most likely to go -as Governor to Damascus or Baghdád, in which case I attach myself to -your service.” “No,” said Ipshír, “go and follow Melek Ahmed.” “Well,” -I, poor Evliya, replied, “there is no difference between you three. -Is not the mother of my present master the nearest relation of Melek -Páshá’s and your mother?” “Look here,” said the Páshá, “he reminds me -of my relationship with Mohammed Páshá, in order to become the mediator -of peace between us.” I got up, kissed his hand and begged he would -give me a letter to My Lord the Páshá, to give him some solace in the -present state of his affairs. He ordered me a tent, seventy secchins, a -horse (being an extremely avaricious and low born Abázá) and a letter, -with which I got under way. - -From Cherkesh (where Várvár’s defeat had happened) I rode for eight -hours to Dúlúshja, a village of an hundred and fifty houses with -gardens and a mosque; eight hours further to Mestibeg, a village of -an hundred houses, a ziámet; and nine hours further to the village of -Alí Zaím, a Súbashilik in the plain of Múrtát, a ziámet of an hundred -houses, where I met the Páshá, who had heard of the defeat of Várvár, -Kor Hossein, and Hájí Oghlí, but knew not as yet of their deaths, -which I related to him as it happened three days ago. The Páshá read -Ipshír’s letter, and hearing at the same time that Bákí Páshá had left -him and joined Ipshír’s camp, he became very melancholy and prepared -for attacking Ipshír, who from Cherkesh moved towards Karamania by -the side of Keskin. The Páshá followed him at three day’s distance, -took a great deal of booty of the baggages of Várvár, Koprilí and Kor -Hossein and arrived in three days at the river Sakaria. At the village -of Merja in the district of Begbazárí the Diván Efendí of Várvár Páshá -was overtaken with forty-three thousand zecchins and seven purses -of money. He confessed to ten thousand zecchins besides and a sum -deposited at Angora of forty purses of money, after which confession -his head was cut off, and sent to the Porte as being that of a rebel. -According to the assignation of Khalíl, the Divání Efendí, on Hassan -at Angora in whose hands the money was deposited, Alaja Atlí Aghá was -despatched with three hundred horsemen to take possession of it. We -marched along the bank of the Sakaria river to the village Shikenjí -Ahmed Aghá in the district of Ayásh, a village surrounded with gardens. -We passed the village of Istanos and after seven hours reached Erkeksú -at last arriving at Angora, where Atlí Aghá was lodged in the house of -Hassan, from whom he demanded the money deposited by the beheaded Diván -Efendí, and I lodged with my old friend Kedr-zádeh who returned to me -all my things and effects, which I had left in his hands. The next day -Hassan Chelebí was obliged to pay the sum mentioned by the beheaded -Diván Efendí and to accompany us in irons. My friend, Kedr-zádeh made -me a present of two pack-horses to facilitate the transport of my -things. We left Angora, passed as before through Istanos, then during -eight hours along the pass of Ayásh; Ayásh is a foundation belonging -to the two holy cities of Mecca and Medina. It is a jurisdiction of -an hundred and fifty aspers, and contains a thousand houses and ten -mosques; the castle is in ruins, but there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí; -the air is heavy because the ground is uneven. I here visited the tomb -of Emír-dedeh, and on the opposite side that of Sheikh Bokhara buried -under a cupola on the mountain. - - -_Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazári._ - -Dinár-hezár, the vezír of Yakúb Sháh of the Germián family, having -conquered this town gave it the name Germián-hezárí. Once a week there -is a famous market chiefly of goats-hair spun and woven. It is now the -Khass of the Muftí of Constantinople who appoints the Súbashí. The -judge, appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers, may easily collect -seven purses. There is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Dizdár and -garrison, the castle being too small to hold any. At the foot of it -lies the town distributed over two valleys, and divided into twenty -quarters. There are forty one mosques, three thousand and sixty seven -elegant houses, all of mortar, but the roofs of wood, a room for -reading the Korán, another for lectures on tradition, but no stone -built colleges as in other towns, and seventy schools. There are more -than seven hundred men and boys who know by heart the Korán, and the -Mohammedieh, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-eshráf; the inhabitants are for the -most part Ulemás. This being a Turkish town the people are chiefly -Oghúz, that is to say good men of the old Turkish simplicity. There -are seven Kháns, pleasant baths, six hundred shops in which precious -articles are found, but no bezestán of stone. On the bank of the -torrent, which flows through the butcheries, a market is held every -week; this torrent falls into the river, which runs below the town, -and with this river into the Sakaria. The roads are strewn with sand -and not paved. The young men are fine, and the girls very retired -and modest, but not pretty. The gardens of Beg-bazárí are numerous; -among its products is a particular melon much distinguished for its -sweetness; the inhabitants make of it a Zerdeh (dish) with cinnamon -and cloves, sweet as the Zerdeh which was first invented by Moavia; -there is also a large green pear four or five of which go to an occa. -Every year some thousand of them are sent in boxes to Constantinople as -presents, such sweet pears are found but in Persia in the town of Nessú -and are like the pears called Melje in the town of Bár. Black barley is -produced here, which must be given with caution to horses, and there is -a great quantity of rice. In the town is the tomb of Az-dedeh. - -We had remained here three days when letters arrived for the Páshá -from my uncles, Melek-zádeh and Abd-ur-rahím, giving notice of the -death of my father, and that all his goods remained in my step-mother’s -hands. They begged leave from the Páshá for me to make a journey to -Constantinople in order to arrange my affairs, after which I might -return to him. I received three letters from my relations with the same -news, which I showed to the Páshá, who showed me those he had received. -He gave me leave to go on condition I would come back again, called the -Kiaya and Khazinedár, gave me five hundred dollars, two horses, and -two slaves, a fine tent and three mules in addition to those which I -had received as a present from the late Várvár Alí Páshá. With seven -Mamlúks and eight servants attached to me, I took leave of the Páshá -and set out at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir in the year 1058 (1648) from -Begbazárí for Constantinople. - - -_Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople._ - -We marched nine hours to the north through cultivated villages and open -meadows to the village of Sárí-beg. Here a gigantic wall is seen, which -is said to have been moved by the miraculous power of Hají Begtásh, and -the spot is shown where he sat upon the wall. It has no foundation and -therefore it is evident it must have been moved hither. Seven hours -further is the village of Kostek-beg of an hundred houses in a ground -intersected by valleys. The inhabitants are free from all duties. At -the time of the rebellion of Kara Yazijí, Seid-ul-Arab, Kalender -Oghlí, Jennet Oghlí, Delí Hassan and Sejiáh Oghlí in the time of Ahmed -I. they assailed a great caraván here, which they plundered, killing -more than two thousand men. The road then remained blocked up for some -time, till Nassif Páshá built here a great khán and transported the -inhabitants hither. There is a mosque, a khán, an imáret and a bath. -The raisins of this place are celebrated for sour preserves. The khán -has no equal in the whole of Anatolia unless it be the Khán of Katífa -and Sa’asa’a in the neighbourhood of Damascus. The stable holds two -thousand horses, there is besides a stable for camels, and all the -buildings are covered with lead. Eight hours further to the north we -arrived at Nállí Khán, a small affranchised mussulman village of an -hundred houses in a valley, governed by a Mutevellí of Nassif Páshá. -This khán is also his foundation and is built like that of Kostek-beg -Khán, having an hundred and fifty chimneys with a kitchen like that -of Keikavús. Travellers receive each a loaf in a brass plate, a dish -of soup and a candle. In seven hours more we reached the village of -Turbelí Koilik, which in the harsh language of the Turks is pronounced -Torbalí Koiluk. Akshems-ud-dín is buried in this village. The castle, -built by the Greek Emperors, was conquered by Ghazí Osmán in the year -712 (1312). It has a Kiaya-yerí and Serdár but no Dizdár. This place is -surrounded on both sides by rocks from which the water of life flows -through fir-wood pipes. Though its inhabitants are Turks, it is yet a -sweet town of two thousand houses, all covered with fir-wood, eighteen -mosques and eight quarters. The houses are overhung by the chalk -cliffs, which from time to time fall down upon them, without doing -the least harm to men or mice. The number of the houses, immediately -overhung by the rocks, is two hundred, there is no college or house -of tradition but twenty schools for boys; in the market-place are -three kháns covered with brick, a bath, a good number of mills and -seventy-five shops in which saddle-bags and horse-cloths are sold. No -Jews can inhabit this place, because in it they die instantly. - - -_Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín._ - -He was born at Damascus and derives his genealogy from Abúbekr, which -was proved by the absence of one of the joints in his finger, because -all descendants from him are born with that defect. He had conversed -with Sheháb-ud-dín Sehrverdí, who is buried in the castle of Baghdád, -and at Angora with Hájí Bairám. He accompanied Mohammed II. to the -conquest of Constantinople, and foretold the day when the town would -be conquered. He and his whole family lie buried here. It was he who -discovered the tomb of Eyyúb and on whose admonition they dug on the -spot indicated by him. He composed many volumes of books and was in -medicine a second Lokman. His son Ahmed Chelebí is the author of -Yússúf and Zúleikha, one of the most renowned of poems in the Turkish -language, he did not accept of the directorship, which his father -intended for him and which after his death devolved on Sa’ad Allah, -another son of his, and who is buried near his father. Sheikh Núrallah -his third son went to Brússa to finish his studies and killed himself -accidentally, his pen-knife entering his stomach. Sheikh Chelebí -Emrillah did not follow his father’s manner of life, and died of the -gout; he composed an historical work. Sheikh Nasrollah his fifth son -travelled for seven years in Persia and is buried at Tabríz; the -Persians visit his tomb, and some erroneously believe him to be the -son of Shems Tabrízí who is buried in the town of Khúí, whither he -walked with his head cut off, carrying it in his hand. Sheikh Mohammed -Núrolhúda the son of Akshems-ud-dín; his father having touched his -mother’s womb when she was pregnant with him, she was immediately -delivered on the salute given to the child, which returned it saying, -“Esselám aleikum.” This ecstatic child (Mejzúb) when grown up could -discern in the mosque those who would go to heaven from those who would -go to hell. He is buried in the village of Evlek, which was given to -him by Sultán Mohammed. Sheikh Mohammed Hamdollah, the abovesaid second -son of Akshems-ud-dín, was also spoken to by his father when in his -mother’s womb. At eight years old he was already author of a Diván. -He composed Leíla and Mejnún, and Yússúf and Zúleikha, which has no -equal in the Turkish language. He died when sixty-six years old. Among -a great number of treatises he wrote one on physiognomy which is much -esteemed. His son Mohammed Chelebí was a great divine and in caligraphy -a second Yakút Mostea’assemí and Ibn Mokla. The tomb of Sheikh -Abd-ul-kádir, the son of Sa’ad Allah; he is buried outside that of his -ancestor. Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím one of Akshems-ud-dín’s followers, who -lived forty years after him; he is the author of the work Wahdet-námeh -(book of unity). - -We remained here one day and then travelled seven hours to the north -to Taráklí, built by the Greek Princes of Brússa and conquered by -Osmán. The judge is appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers; there -are fifteen hundred houses in a valley all covered with brick, eleven -mihrábs, seven quarters, a bath, five kháns, six schools and two -hundred shops; this town is called Taraklí because spoons and combs -(Tarak) are made here from the box-trees which cover the neighbouring -mountains. These spoons and combs are sent into Arabia and Persia. The -torrent which flows through the village falls into the river Hármen and -with it into the sea. Eight hours to the north is the castle of Kíva, -properly Kekiva, a small castle for the sheep of a Greek Princess. It -is the foundation consecrated to the famous bridge of Sultán Bayazíd -II. here built over the Sakaria. It was formerly a large town, but -ruined in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. by the inundation of the -Sakaria, it consisted of three hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, three -kháns, and seven schools for boys. It is now situated at an arrow’s -shot distance from the river, and has a large khán covered with brick -and twenty shops near it. The sour preserve of raisins and the melons -of the district are famous, two melons are a load for a horse. The -river Sakaria, which flows here under the bridge, comes from the town -of Beg-bazarí and falls into the Black Sea near Irva. In this place -reside a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí and Mutevellí, or administrator of the -Wakf. Burhán, a companion of Osmán I. is buried here. We passed the -bridge and to the north along the banks of Sakaria through the great -forest, called Agháj-denizí (the sea of trees), a den of wild beasts -and robbers, where many strangers have been lost. The trees are high -firs and linden, which intercept the rays of the sun, and perfume the -brain with their sweet scent. - -These mountains are inhabited by some thousand unmerciful Turks, who -live by cutting wood and loading it in ships, and sometimes by cutting -passengers and unloading caravans. This forest extends through four -Sanjaks, viz: Brússa, Ismíd, and Bolí, and a month is necessary to make -the tour of it. In some places it is cut through like the road to Kíva. -Three hours from Kíva we came to the castle of the shepherds (Chobán -Kala’assí), a small castle towering to the skies. It is here that the -shepherds of Princess Kekeva dwelled and took toll from those who -passed; the passage being straightened between the mountains and the -river Sakaria, they obliged every body to pay. We passed through it and -continuing our way to the West along the bank of the Sakaria for seven -hours we reached Sabánja, a cultivated place which has been already -described on the way to Erzerúm. From hence we came to Nicomedia, also -described in the journey to Erzerúm. We passed Herke, Gebize, the tomb -of Gemiklí, Alí-bábá, Pendík, Kartál, the bridge of the Bostánji-bashí, -and Kádíkoí, and arrived at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir, 1058 (1648), -in the great town of Scutarí, and at last, praise be to God! at -Constantinople, with all my baggage. I kissed the hand of my mother and -the eyes of my sisters, then mounted again on horseback to fulfil my -vow by visiting the tomb of Eyyúb, where I immolated and distributed -a victim, and returned home. In a dream I saw my father who wished -me joy on my happy arrival and on my visit to the tomb of Er-Sultán. -Having thrice said the Súra-et-tekátherí, I awoke and took a boat -to visit the tomb of my father behind the arsenal, and my ancestors -buried there since the time of Mohammed II, thrice said the above -Súra, then returned home, took possession of my father’s heritage, and -made a vow to consecrate two thousand zechins of it to the pilgrimage -of Mecca; visited all my friends and acquaintances, and enjoyed with -them the pleasures of conversation, when the great rebellion of the -troops began on the eighteenth of Rejeb, 1058, and terminated in the -dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím and the accession of his son Mohammed IV. - - (_Here follows the account of the dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím, - which is nearly the same as has been given, in the first volume, under - this Sultán’s reign, and is therefore omitted here._) - -Evliya then relates how his master Mohammed Defterdár Zádeh came to -Constantinople, and after a lively contest with Koja Mevleví, the -grand vezír, obtained from him the nomination to the Governorship of -Malatia, begging he would grant it him with the Kharáj (tribute), -Awáriz (accidental duties) and the Mohassillik or collectorship, which -was done. Evliya waited on him and with great difficulty obtained -permission to go on the pilgrimage to Mecca. He then remained sometime -at Constantinople, and attached himself to Silehdár Murteza Páshá, as -Múezzin-báshí (chief proclaimer of prayer), he was also named Imám -of the Mahmel (the Sultán’s annual present to Mecca), and went from -Constantinople to Scutarí in the first days of the month Sha’abán, -setting out with Murteza Páshá for the journey to Damascus. The Páshá’s -Imám being an Arab whom Murteza disliked, the Arab performed prayers -outside, and Evliya inside the Páshá’s tent and was continually in the -Páshá’s company. During the time they remained at Scutari, the famous -robber Hyder Oghlí, in whose hands Evliya had fallen when he lost his -way in the pass as before related, was brought in by Hassan Aghá, and -hanged at Parmak-kapú (finger-gate). The same night as the execution of -the robber, Evliya slept in his paternal home at Constantinople, then -took leave of his friends and relations and passed over to Scutarí, -where he visited Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí, and Saint Karají Ahmed and -the tombs of all the great men in the burying ground, calling their -spirits to his assistance in the Syrian voyage, which he was about to -undertake. - - Amen, by the grace of the Lord of Apostles. - - - END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - -There are many variations in the spelling, hyphenation and accents of -proper names and other non-English terms. Except in cases where there is an -obvious dominant spelling and a variant that may legitimately be seen -as a typographical error, these remain unchanged. - -Italics are represented thus _italic_. - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, -and Africa, in the Seventeenth Centur, by Evliya Çelebi and Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 54255-0.txt or 54255-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/2/5/54255/ - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Volume II, by Evliya, Çelebi, 1611?-1682? - -Author: Evliya Çelebi - Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -Release Date: February 28, 2017 [EBook #54255] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - - -<h1>NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS<br /> - -<span class="xxs">IN</span><br /> - -EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA,<br /> - -<span class="xxs">IN</span><br /> - -<small>THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY</small>,</h1> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">BY</span></p> - -<p class="center">EVLIYA EFENDI.</p> - -<p class="center"><small>TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH</small><br /> - -<span class="xs">BY</span><br /> - -<small>THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER,</small><br /> -<span class="xs">F.M.R.A.S., &c. &c. &c.</span></p> - -<hr class="smallt" /> -<p class="center"><small>VOL. II.</small></p> -<hr class="smallb" /> - -<div class="figcenter" > -<img src="images/colophon.jpg" alt="Colophon" /> -</div> - -<p class="center small">LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND<br /> -OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND;<br /> - -<span class="xs">SOLD BY</span><br /> -<small>WILLIAM H. ALLEN & CO. LEADENHALL STREET.</small></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">M.DCCC.L.</span> -</p> -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="center xs spaced"> -LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2></div> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="right" colspan="2"><small>Page</small></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_BRUSSA">Journey to Brussa.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Town and Fortress of Modania</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_2">2</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Buildings of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Public Officers of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Imperial and other Mosques</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Mosque of Mohammed I.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Mosque of Emír Sultán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Colleges of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills, and Sebíls of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Baths of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplíjeh)</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of New Kaplíjeh</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Market of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the bridge of Erghándí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">A Dissertation on Mountains</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Ice-worm</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Climate of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Conquests of Sultán Orkhán</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the Great Saint</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Short account of Sultan Murád I.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Short account of Sultán Mohammed I.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Short account of the reign of Murád II.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Tombs of Ottoman Princes</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_NICOMEDIA">Journey to Nicomedia.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Qualities of a Mineral Spring</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages of Nicomedia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_BATUM_AND_TREBISONDE">Journey to Batum and Trebisonde.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Samsún</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Onia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Town and Ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Begs of Abaza Tribes</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Form and size of the Town, and description</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">of its Monuments</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Lower Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Mosques</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Occupations, Guilds, &c.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Eatables and Beverages</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Walks of Trebisonde</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the River Kosh-oghlán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Visit to the Monuments of Sultans and Saints</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_GEORGIA_AND_MINGRELIA">Journey to Georgia and Mingrelia.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Mingrelia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_AZAK_ASSOV_1050">Journey to Azak (Assov.)</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Land of Abáza</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Specimen of the Abáza Language</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_THE_CRIMEA">Journey to the Crimea.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Baliklava</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Return to Constantinople</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#EXPEDITION_AGAINST_MALTA_IN_THE_YEAR_1055_1645">Expedition against Malta in the year 1055 (1645).</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Station of Gallipolis</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Siege of the Fortress of Canea</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_ERZERUM">Journey to Erzerum.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Gebize</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Lake of Sabánja</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Station of Khandak-bazárí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage to Habíb Karamání</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Bábá</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Form and Size of Amasia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Town and Castle of Nígíssár</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Hot-Spring of Nígíssár</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages of Nígíssár</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the great river Euphrates</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Mosques</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Fountains</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Markets</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c.</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Genealogies of Erzerúm</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Mount Egerlí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Stations of our Military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Hot-baths</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Hot-bath</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and form of Magú</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Curiosities of Uch Kilisse</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage of Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_FROM_NAKHSHIVAN_TO_TABRIZ">Journey from Nakhshivan to Tabriz.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Mosques of Tabríz</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Colleges of Tabríz</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Air and Climate</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Account of the Persian Crown (Táj)</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c.</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Account of a curious conversation</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">General Praise of Tabríz</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Bad and reprehensible things in Irán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám Gházán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Merághá</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Aján</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_147">147</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_FROM_TABRIZ_TO_ERIVAN">Journey from Tabriz to Erivan.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván)</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the important town of Genje</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_154">154</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Shekí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Account of the Tribe of Ettels</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage of Ashár-bábá</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_158">158</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of Mount Caucasus</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Town of Shamákhí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Fortress of Bakú</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and figure of the Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Iron Gate</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Buildings within the Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Pilgrimage of the Forty</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_GEORGIA">Journey to Georgia.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Serír-ul-Allán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Tomb of Emír Sultán</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the old town of Kákht</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz.: Betlís</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and Figure of the Fortress</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Products</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Hot-baths of Tiflís</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Kúsekht</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_173">173</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Súrán</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Genealogy of the Georgian Kings</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_173">173</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultán Selím’s conquest</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_174">174</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Khas or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Number of Ziámets and Timárs</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_ERIVAN_IN_THE_YEAR_1057_1647">Journey to Erivan in the year 1057 (1647).</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Journeys on our return</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_185">185</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_BAIBURD_JANJA_ISPER_TORTUM">Journey to Baiburd, Janja, Isper, Tortum and Akchekala’a.</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Form and size of the Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_188">188</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the River Jorúgh</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Tortúm</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Size and Shape of the Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_195">195</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Of the Language of the Mingrelians</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_197">197</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Moral Reflections</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 (1647)</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Kumákh</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_201">201</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Erzenján</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Eatables and Beverages</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of a Lion</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_207">207</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_208">208</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Castle of Ládík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Walks of Ládík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The warm baths of Ládík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Lake of Ládík</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages of Ládík</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_212">212</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Merzifún</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the Baths</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_213">213</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of Pírdedeh</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Products</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Journey from Merzifún to Koprí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_216">216</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the town of Gumish</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praise of Sheikh Bárdákli-bábá</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Form of the Castle</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_227">227</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of Angora</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">The Eatables and Products</td> - <td class="tdrb">ib.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Pilgrimages</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_233">233</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazárí</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_239">239</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_240">240</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdh">Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín</td> - <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td> -</tr> -</table></div> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="NOTES">NOTES.</h2></div> - - -<h3><i>Note 1, <a href="#Page_16">p. 16</a>.</i>—<i>It is a journey of two -days from Brússa to the top.</i></h3> - -<p>The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the -journey having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the -company of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the -Prussian Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places -the time necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of -the length and difficulty of the road.</p> - - -<h3 class="hang"><i>Note 2, <a href="#Page_197">p. 197</a>.</i>—<i>The inhabitants of -Tortúm all assembled to form the Istikbál (solemn meeting.)</i></h3> - -<p>See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. <span -class="smcap">Bushire to Shiraz</span>: “At two o’Clock we came to -Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small fort called <i>Khosh Aub</i>, -where a large body of people were waiting our passage. (In the Journey -this is the first notice of the <i>Istakball</i>, which so frequently recurs -in the future progress of the mission, as an honorary assemblage called -forth to receive a distinguished traveller, and to conduct him in his -passage.) They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks, swords, and -shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then advanced to us -and being announced by the <i>Arz-Beg</i>, wished us a prosperous journey. -They were answered by the usual civility “<i>Khosh amedeed</i>, you are -welcome.” As we proceeded our party was headed by the soldiery. They -were commanded by a man on horseback, all in tatters, who with his whip -kept them together, and excited them with his voice where he wanted -them to run. Two of the chosen of the village performed feats before us -on their lean horses, and helped to increase the excessive dust, which -involved us. This party kept pace with us, until we were again met by a -similar host, the van of the little army who were waiting our reception -at Borazjoon: these also fired their muskets.”</p> - - -<h3><i>Note 3, <a href="#Page_211">p. 211</a>.</i>—<i>The river Khalliz.</i></h3> - -<p>This was no doubt originally called <i>Halys</i>, which seems to have -formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil -Irmák.</p> - - - - -<p class="center xs"> -LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p> - - - - -<p class="half-title">THE<br /> - -TRAVELS<br /> - -OF<br /> - -EVLIYA EFENDI.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_BRUSSA">JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.</h2></div> - - -<p>Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii to praise -him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels and Eden, Húrís -and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses and daffodils, nightingales -and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals; the moon and the radiant sun: -greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet, who by his family accomplished his divine -mission! Praise be to the Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and -destined me to obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, -alms and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly servant -Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the pilgrimage, first tried -my strength by commencing, in the month of Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot -through the environs and quarters of Constantinople; the account of which is -contained in the first volume of these travels. My ardent wish was to see -Jerusalem and Baghdád, Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to -my dream related in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when -the prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue, said to him, -instead of the usual form, <i>Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah</i> (Intercession, O envoy of God) -<i>Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah</i> (Travelling, O envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, -granted my wish.</p> - -<p>“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.” Thus -ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my friend Okjí Zádeh -Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a journey to Brússa. He invited -me to be his companion according to the maxim, “First the companion, then the -road;” and said,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span> “Let us spend a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments -at Brússa: the tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great -Saint Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this -proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all present -responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey.</p> - -<p>For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out on this -journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in a boat of Modania, -leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of my birth, with the intention of -seeing other towns and villages. The present volume gives an account of this -journey, which I undertook in consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel -therein safely day and night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for -according to the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We -weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí to take on -board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the morning on the first -Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen finding the time favourable for -sailing, unfurled the sails and weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the -ship’s head towards Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in -high spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy voyage -by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to accompany them in -their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile, I fixed on the measure girdánieh, -and sung three tetrasticks and one sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. -Several of the boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such -effect, that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst these -amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands), eighteen miles -distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference; it contains a famous -Convent which is visited every year by many boats from Constantinople. The -inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains and masters of ships. The public -officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. -From hence we weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves -with a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five hours’ -sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first enabled to -perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion, and then went -forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and forms a safe harbour, being -closed against the wind from seven points and open only to the North. The -anchorage is excellent. At the head of the harbour stands the custom-house, the -lease of which amounts to a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span> -on a low rocky ground. Prince Orkhán, with his father Osmán’s permission, -conquered this town in the year 721 (1321) and destroyed the walls in several -places, that it might no longer afford shelter to the infidels. It is governed by a -Voivode, subordinate to Brússa, the chief seat of the Sanjak of Khodávendkiár. -The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers a day. His annual -revenue amounts to two thousand piastres. This appointment is sometimes given -to the Mollá of Brússa as Páshmáklik (pin-money). The houses are all faced -with brick. There are three mosques (jámí) and seven mesjids, three kháns, one -bath, two schools for boys, and two hundred small streets; but no room for reading -the Korán or tradition, because the greater number of the inhabitants are -Greeks. There are fine gardens producing superior figs and grapes. From the -excellence of its vinegar, it has acquired the name of Dárkhill (vinegar-house). -South-east of the town we passed on horseback continuously through gardens and -the cultivated field called Filehdár. The river Nílúfer, not fordable in the -beginning of spring, is a clear stream, which issuing from the mountains Rúhbán, -Ketelí and Castel, waters the valley of Fillehdár and disembogues into the White -Sea. The main road crosses it over a handsome bridge, each arch of which -resembles the arch of heaven; its name, as well as that of the river, was received -from its builder the Princess Nílúfer, daughter of a Sultán (Orkhán): after continuing -our journey among gardens and vineyards for two hours, we reached the -town of Brússa, the emporium of silk, the ancient capital of this country (Bithynia).</p> - -<p>The town of Brússa having been built towards the North on natural rocks has -no ditch, but on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) and the quarter of -the Mills, it has a deep one, which at the time of the Asiatic rebellions of Kará -Yazijí, Kallender and Sa’íd Arab was filled up. Some of the stones of the walls -are of the size of the cupola of a bath, and some bear Greek inscriptions on -them. The town is protected against southerly and easterly winds from its -being situated at the foot of Mount Olympus. The houses have a northern aspect -and look over the plain of Filehdár. The fortress, the circumference of which is -eleven thousand paces, has six thousand battlements, sixty-seven towers, and four -gates, viz. the gate of the head fountain, the prison-gate, the hot-baths’-gate to -the west, and the gate of the fishmarket. This stronghold was besieged more than -once by the Seljúkians, who came with an army of twenty thousand men; the siege -lasted between seven and eight months, the besiegers retiring only on the approach -of winter. Osmán the founder of the Ottoman dynasty besieged it three -times, but was compelled on the last occasion by an attack of the gout to retire -to Iconium. He sent his son Orkhán with Sheikh Hájí Begtásh, who renewed -the siege, and built two great towers, one at the side of the hot-baths (Kaplijah),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span> -and the other on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí), which took seven -months to complete. Orkhán posted himself at the hot-bath, his nephew Timúr-beg, -at the head-fountain, and Yalabánjik-beg at the mountain’s side. It surrendered -in 722 (1322) after a year’s siege, and Osmán died at the moment he -received the news. Orkhán his successor entered Brússa with Hájí Begtásh, there -fixed his residence, and buried his father’s body in the castle. Osmán conquered -seventy towns during the lifetime of his father Ertoghrúl. His first conquest -was in Kojá-Ilí by Akcheh Kojá. Near Nicæa at the castle of Wáilakabád, he -begat his son Orkhán on Sheikh Edebáli’s daughter, who was related to the prophet, -so that the Ottoman Sultáns are Seyyids or Sherífs on the mother’s side. -Sheikh Túrsún their first divine was a relation of Sheikh Edebáli, and said the -first prayer from the pulpit in Sultán Osmán’s name. Brússa soon became populated -by mussulman colonists from all quarters.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Buildings of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many high -palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many mosques, one bath -and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is one hundred and ten feet -square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán Orkhán lies buried here, and the -large drum called Orkhán’s drum is suspended in this mosque; it was used during -Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The palace in the castle was the residence of the early -Ottoman Emperors to the time of Mohammed II., who removed to Constantinople; -Sultán Murád I. having previously resided at Adrianople. Since Brússa -has had its own Bóstánjí-bashí (like Constantinople) the streets of the castle are -paved with large stones, and in some places stones are found with inscriptions of -the time of the Infidels, by which may be ascertained how long the houses have -been built; they are all built of stone, faced with brick, and have a kind of -sexangular chimneys to let out the smoke, which look very well. In some places -also grow cypress-nut trees and vines, and from the elevation of the ground, the -air is very wholesome.</p> - - -<h3><i>The public Officers of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with a revenue -of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty fiefs called ziámet -and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal militia is commanded by an -Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and assemble at the Páshá’s command in -time of war. The Páshá leads five hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) -is appointed with 500 aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople -and Constantinople, it is a high office, valued annually at forty thousand piastres.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span> -Seven Náíbs (deputies) in the town are subordinate to the Mollá. The five other -districts are those of Kíná, Fileh, Abolonia, Castel, and Chokúrjeh. The civil -officers are, a Chokádár of the janissaries, a chamberlain (Kápújí-báshí); the -commanding officer of the janissaries, the colonel of the armourers (Jebejí), the -officer of the Sípáhís (Kiayá-yerí); the Muftí, the head of the Sherífs, the -inspector of the silk, of the custom-house, the Voivode of the town and the -provost, who all have power of life and death.</p> - -<p>The lower town was fortified in the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror of -Erla against the Anatolian rebels Kará Yazíjí, Kalender-oghlí, Delí Hassán, and -Jennet-oghlí, but it is not very strong; it extends from East to West to the foot -of Mount Olympus for the length of one farsang and the breadth of half a farsang. -The circuit is fifteen hundred paces, the walls are not very high. There is but -one ditch near the gate of the Tátárs and no where else, and there is no need of -it, because if an enemy were to dig approaches, water would rush up in the -trenches. Guns and falconets are mounted on the towers, which are fired on -festivals; there is no other garrison than the doorkeepers, but there are six -thousand guards in the town. The gates are of iron and above each are towers -whence grenades and stones may be thrown on the besiegers. The gate of the Tátárs -opens to the East, that of Filehdár to the North; and that of Hassan Páshá -towards the Kiblah. There are twenty-thousand large and small houses built -in the ancient style; the most conspicuous of all is the ancient residence -of the Emperors, in the upper town or fortress, it has three baths and three -hundred rooms, but no garden on account of the narrowness of the place. There -are in the whole town one hundred and sixty-six quarters of Moslims, seven of -Armenians, nine of Greeks, six of Jews, and one of Copts. The quarter of the -Meskins (Lepers) is a separate quarter leading to the road of Sultán Murád. -The upper part of the town with Mount Olympus rising in the background is -beautiful when seen from the plain of Filehdár, an hour’s distance from it, and -I can truly say that I have seen nothing like it during my travels. Brússa is a -very devout town, abounding with Divines, expounders of the Korán and keepers -of tradition, who are found no where else so numerous, excepting at Baghdád. -Mount Olympus at the back of the town on the south side is a mine of living -water, no less than one thousand and sixty well-known springs flow from it, and -supply water in abundance to the palaces and houses. It abounds also in all -kinds of flowers, particularly in syringa (Erghiwán), the annual assembly of Emír -Sultán held in the season when the syringa is in perfection being much celebrated. -The inhabitants being fair, the air good, the water full of holiness, contribute -altogether, to render Brússa one of the most delicious spots on earth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Imperial and other Mosques.</i></h3> - -<p>There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three hundred and -fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and other great men. The -first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated -spot of Brússa, it is supported within by large square pillars, the bases of which -are gilt and painted to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, <i>Yá Hannán</i>, -“O all gracious!” <i>Yá Mennán</i>, “O all merciful,” <i>Yá Diyán</i>, “O all faithful!” -<i>Yá Hassán</i>, “O all beautiful!” and other names of God. The letters of these -inscriptions are three cubits high; nineteen cupolas covered with lead and -crowned with golden crescents are supported by these pillars. The twentieth -cupola is placed on the centre of the mosque, and is left open so that light and -air may enter, but birds and animals are shut out by a grating of brass wire. -Directly beneath this cupola is a round basin of water, wherein fish are swimming -and whence the Moslim community take the water necessary for their ablutions. -The pulpit made of black nut is skilfully carved and chiselled with flowers and -arabesques of all kinds. It must be absolutely seen, for it is so wonderful that it -cannot easily be described, and has no equal any where except at Sinope on the -Black Sea. The mahfil or place where the Muëzzins repeat the proclamation -of prayer, is painted with great art. The mosque is lighted by glass windows on -the four sides, and the floor covered with carpets which are not found elsewhere -because this mosque is so richly endowed. It is nightly lighted by seven hundred -lamps, and is crowded with people at all hours, because no less than seventy -lectures are read here on scientific subjects to two thousand scholars. The -distance from one of the side-gates to the other is three hundred and fifty feet, -and from the Kiblah to the mihráb one hundred and eighty feet; it has three -gates. On the left side, the gate of the Emperor’s oratory (mahfil), the gate of -the Kiblah (opposite to the mihráb), and on the right side, the gate of the -Mehkemeh. Outside of the Kiblah-gate is a stone bench; it has no great courtyard -like other mosques, but a small one, in the centre of which the Muftí Abdul-azíz -Efendí has built a basin with water-pipes.</p> - -<p>On the right and left are two high brick mináreh, and at that of the Mehkemeh-gate -is a fountain (<i lang="fr">jet d’eau</i>), the water of which comes from Mount Olympus, -but it is now in ruins, the pipes having become decayed by age. When it rains -the water collects in the basin of this fountain on the top of the Mináreh, and the -birds flock hither to drink. In short there is no more holy mosque than this -in Brússa; it is the Ayá Sofía of Brússa, and has therefore been described the -first, but the first consecrated in chronological order, was that of Orkhán in the -upper castle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></p> - - -<h3><i>The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I.</i></h3> - -<p>On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate suburb -called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a peculiar style, because -the architect was a Frank. The lower part is devoted to worship, the upper -devoted to science, is distributed into rooms for students, so that each may follow -the Imám’s directions at prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one -hundred feet, and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a -falcon, which having been recalled by Sultán Murád I. and not obeying, was by -his curse changed into stone. This mosque has one gate, and a mináreh one -story high, but no courtyard.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by fields -and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance from the town; -it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in width, in the old simple -style, and remained unfinished during the war of Timúr, but was completed by -Mússa Ilderím’s son.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Mosque of Mohammed I.</i></h3> - -<p>This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret -(the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on the East side -of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one hundred and eight feet long -and eighty feet in width. It is impossible to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) -and minber (pulpit) because the carving is beyond all conception; the only -gate is also ornamented with such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could -not be represented finer even by the pen on Chinese paper. The stone-cutter -who worked this gate, spent full three years on it, during which he received -forty thousand ducats from Mohammed I. as is generally reported; in short, there -is no mosque of more elegant and exquisite workmanship in the world. The -reason of its being named the green building, arises from the cupola and the -mináreh being covered with green fayence which radiates like emeralds in sunshine. -Tall plane trees surround the outside. I saw no finer mosque in Brússa, and -other travellers say no where else.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I.</i></h3> - -<p>On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this mosque and -its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The builder was Murád II. -the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II. who died at Adrianople -and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and has two cupolas. From the gate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> -of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length is one hundred and fifty feet, the width -sixty. The (mihráb) altar, (minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) -are in the ancient simple style, built in the year 850 (1446). Tall plane-trees -adorn the courtyard. Many Princes of the Ottoman family are buried here.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Mosque of Emír Sultán.</i></h3> - -<p>This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques which -I visited.</p> - -<p>On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a small -mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í, its fine situation -invites the people to pray there. The mosque of Uftádí Efendí is in the -inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques (where Khutbeh is not said on -Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, -where I read the Korán from beginning to end in one day, without interruption. -Here the Mollá Khosrew composed his famous book. At that time -two hundred lead-covered mosques and seven hundred minárehs might be seen -from Kází-yailá, a height half way up Mount Olympus.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Colleges of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I., Emír-sultán, -Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, -and Hamza-beg.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that of -Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a place for the -dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered with lead, which stands on -a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí -Efendí, in the inner castle, of Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán -of the Begtáshís, men fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open -breasts, wait upon the Moslims who frequent this delightful walk; it was built -by Orkhán and possesses more than a thousand kettles, pans, and copper vessels; -visitors perform their devotions here. That of Sheikh Kílí near the camel-driver’s -station, the dervishes are Begtáshís and very poor, having no endowment, it was -built by Sultán Orkhán. That of Abdál Sultán Mússa built by the same. That of -Ak-bi’ík Sultán of the order of Begtásh. That of Abú Ishak Kasúlí who is -buried at Erzerúm within the gate of Tebríz. That of Gulshení; seventeen -Convents of Khalvetís; nine of Kadris; three of Nakshbendís; one of Rúfa’áïs; -one of Kalenders, and one of wrestlers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - -<p>The Imárets (dining establishments for the poor) are those of Murád I. -Ilderím Báyazíd, Emír Sultán, and that of Mohammed I., called the green one.</p> - -<p>There are one hundred and eight kháns; the principal one is the rice khán, -which has iron gates, a large stable, worthy of Antar, with two hundred cells; -the silk khán, of the same size, where the inspector of the silk resides; the custom -of the silk is let for three hundred purses a year; the butter khán on the -gate of which is suspended a cask, which, being filled with búza, was once drank -out by a single man who had laid a bet that he would do it. There are also -seventy kháns called Mujerred Kháns for unmarried people. The cáravánseráï -of Alí Páshá was built by Sinán the famous architect, and has doorkeepers.</p> - -<p>The fountains of Brússa amount to the number of two thousand and sixty, -every one of which vies with the spring of life. The Muftí Azíz Efendí -himself built two hundred, his name appearing on all of them, with an inscription -begging for a fátihah from those who drink. Besides these public fountains, -each of the twenty-three thousand houses has its own supply. From certain -springs water-courses pass from house to house, along the streets, and carry -water to many basins, water-pipes, baths and gardens. The town being built at -the foot of Mount Olympus, and the houses rising in rows one above the other, -the water naturally flows to them. There are seventeen fountains, from which -this large quantity of water is derived, the principal one is that called Búnár-báshí, -which rushes out of the rock in several places on Mount Olympus and -spreads itself over the town. The head fountains of Súnderlí, of Chatál Kainak, -of Kepíz, of Náshí Dersí, of Sobrán, of Arejlí, of Chárshú, of Bellor Kainak, of -Samánlí Kainak, the latter obtained the name of straw-boiler, because it issues -from Mount Olympus, flows for some distance underground, and comes out again -at another place, which is proved by the re-appearance of straws that have been put -into the upper part of the stream; the Sheker Kainak (sugar-boiler); the Selám -Kiassí Kainaghí; the Királ Kainak (king’s boiler); the Murád-dedeh Kainaghí; in -short there are seventeen large fountains which yield the clearest and coldest -water; but the channels decaying in the course of time, the keepers of the -aqueducts, at night, throw horsedung into them, by which the openings are -obstructed and the purity of the water is spoiled; they would not dare to do this -in the day-time because they would be punished for it by the public officers.</p> - -<p>The Water-mills are an hundred and seventy, which succeed one another from -the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) to the fish-market and all the way down from -Balabánjik; also in the valley of Eghzándí, at the tanners, the quarter of the -lepers, the foot of the Castle, the gate of Hassán Páshá, &c. The establishments -for distributing water (Sebíls) are six hundred. Although here, as at Brússa,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -there is such abundance of water that these establishments are superfluous, yet -the generosity of the Ottoman Sultáns provided them for the distribution of iced -water in the summer months.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Baths of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond -all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím Khán; -the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the bath of -Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of Ilderím, have all two -rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three thousand private baths in the -palaces, some of which are also devoted by the proprietors to public use. The -hot-baths in Turkish are called Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Maíhamím; in Persian, -Germáb; in Rúmelí, Kainarjeh (boiling); and at Brússa, Kaplíjeh (from -[Greek: kapnos] smoke, which hangs over these hot springs;) in the Mogolic language -they are called Kerensa, and in Europe, bagnio. These springs are impregnated -with sulphur from mines which they pass through underground, and when mixed -with cold water, are equally wholesome for bathing or drinking, but if drank to -excess, it is said, they cause the teeth to fall out. There are many hundred hot -springs at Brússa, which being neglected in the time of the Infidels, were not -covered. The hot-bath of old Kaplíjeh, built by Murád I. has a great cupola -covering a large basin ten feet square, on the four sides of which are washing-tubs, -with two retired cabinets (Khalvetí), upon entering these the flesh feels -soft as an ear-lap and all uncleanliness is boiled as it were from the body. To -drink the water is a good remedy for palpitation and throbbing of the heart; but -a certain method is prescribed to those using the baths, which if neglected brings -on pleurisy.</p> - -<p>The following are the rules to be observed:—First, take a common ablution -at the edge of the basin, then wash the head with warm water, throwing some -over the body preparatory to walking into the bath, till the whole body is -covered, do not remain too long, and dress quickly upon coming out, in order -to avoid catching cold; this precaution is necessary, and if neglected causes many -ailments. The most powerful of all the hot-baths of Brússa is that of Murád I. -the dressing-place being built in the old style is not cold.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán.</i></h3> - -<p>The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers who have -been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and bathe here forty days. -Persons affected with this disease lose their eyebrows and eyelashes, and their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -breath becomes infectious. God avert it from us! There are for this reason -separate quarters for the leprous (Meskin) in all towns in Rúm.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)</i></h3> - -<p>It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it is principally -used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters (Dellák) know how to treat -people so affected. Those who can bear to be rubbed by them in the private -cabinets for half an hour, will see within twenty-four hours a miraculous -alteration; the skin peels off in black scales, and the body appears white as -silver. In short, the suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists -of three hundred houses with gardens and hot springs, some for men, some -for women, some for children, and some for old men. The inhabitants of Brússa, -who are acquainted with their qualities, come here to stay a fortnight with their -relations, and use the baths.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of New Kaplíjeh.</i></h3> - -<p>It stands near the town on a rocky place, and all the buildings are covered -with lead, like those of old Kaplíjeh. It was formerly a small building, but -Sultán Súleimán having been cured of the gout here, he ordered his Vezír, Sárí -Rostem Páshá, to build a large bath. The travellers of Múltán, Balkh and -Bokhara, say, that they have no where seen a bath so magnificent as this. Its -dressing-room is a vast place covered with cupolas, capable of holding a thousand -men; on its walls is written in Ta’lík letters, a Turkish verse, saying;</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">“In life on your apparel lay no stress</div> -<div class="verse">As every body must his body here undress.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>In the centre of this dressing-room is a basin, and in the middle of the basin a -fountain. There are more than a hundred inspectors walking round in high -pattens, besides clean waiters (Dellák). The interior basin (the bath itself) -has a cupola which some say is one hundred cubits high, it is covered with lead, -and pierced with six hundred glass windows; the basin is like a sea into which you -descend by six marble steps; at its four corners are figures of lions and dragons, -which spout the water from their mouths. In the cooling place (Súklik) is a -fountain (jet d’eau) which reaches to the top of the house. On the side of the -basin are eight large vaults, underneath each of them is a bathing trough of stone, -where those who perform their ablutions can see those who swim in the basin. -The floor of the whole bath is paved with variegated marble, as though -enamelled by goldsmiths. It has two private cabinets (Khalvetí), in that on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -right is a small basin, the water of which is extremely warm, but when mixed -with that of a cold spring which is adjacent, a proper temperature is obtained. -Though this hotbath is not in such good repute as the former, yet it is a pleasant -place, where lovers delight with their beloved, especially in the long winter nights; -when these baths are lighted with candles, a thousand tricks are played by the -bathers, some diving, some swimming, some wrestling in the water, some swelling -their aprons into sails, others spouting water from their mouths, some lying dead -flat on the water, others joining hands and imitating the cries of boatmen, -“Tírá Molá,” drive the water round like a whirlpool, which forces all those who -are in the water to follow the quick rotation of it.</p> - -<p>There is also a private hotbath, called Kainárjeh, which, with many others, I did -not see, because I was a stranger, and only setting out on my travels.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Market of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>There are nine thousand shops. The Bezestán is a large building with four -iron gates secured with iron chains; its cupola is supported by strong columns. -It contains three hundred shops (doláb) in each of which merchants reside, who -are as rich as the kings of Egypt. The market of the goldsmiths is outside the -bezestán, and separate from it; the shops are all of stone. There are also the -markets of the tailors, cotton-beaters, capmakers, thread merchants, drapers, linen -merchants, cable merchants, and that called the market of the bride, where essence -of roses, musk, ambergris, &c. are sold. The brains of the passers by are refreshed -with the most delicious odours, and nobody is willing to leave it on account of the -fragrance of the perfumes and the politeness of its merchants. These markets -are established around the Bezestán, and the shops are arranged in rows. In each -corner is a fountain supplying water out of two pipes. In the summer months the -servants sprinkle the ground with water, so that the whole market resembles a -serdáb or cooling place of Baghdád. The principal men of Brússa sit here during -the hottest hours of the day. According to the descriptions of travellers there is -no where to be found so pleasant a market place. The market of Haleb and of Alí -Páshá at Adrianople are famous, but neither they, nor even those of Constantinople, -are to be compared with the markets of Brússa. The saddlers, and the long -market are the most crowded; and the one occupied by the sellers of roast meat -near the rice khán is very elegant. None of the provisions at Brússa are sold by -Infidels but all by true Moslims. The shops of the Sherbet-merchants are -adorned with all sorts of cups, and in the summer-time they put flowers into the -sherbet and also mix rosewater with it, which is not the custom any where else. -The fruit merchants ornament their shops with branches bearing fruit. There<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span> -are seventy-five coffee-houses each capable of holding a thousand persons, which -are frequented by the most elegant and learned of the inhabitants; and three -times a day singers and dancers execute a musical concert in them like those of -Hossein Bikara. Their poets are so many Hassáns, and their story-tellers -(Meddáh) so many Abúl-ma’álí. The one most famous for relating stories from -the Hamzeh-námeh is Kúrbání Alí, and Sheríf Chelebí enchanted his hearers by -those he told from the Sháh-námeh. Other story-tellers (Kissah Khán) were -famous for reciting the tales of Abú Moslem the hatchet-bearer, which may be -compared to the memoirs (Seir) of Weissi. All coffee-houses, and particularly -those near the great mosque, abound with men skilled in a thousand arts -(Hezár-fenn) dancing and pleasure continue the whole night, and in the morning -every body goes to the mosque. These coffee-houses became famous only since -those of Constantinople were closed by the express command of Sultán Murád -IV. There are also no less than ninety-seven Búza-houses, which are not to -be equalled in the world; they are wainscoted with fayence, painted, each -capable of accommodating one thousand men. In summer the Búza is cooled in -ice, like sherbet; the principal men of the town are not ashamed to enter these -Búza-houses, although abundance of youths, dancers and singers, girt with Brússa -girdles, here entice their lovers to ruin. The roads are paved with large flint-stones, -a kind of paving not met with elsewhere; these stones are not the least worn by -age, but they are dangerous for horses, who stumble on them because they are so -hard and bright.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the bridge of Erghándí.</i></h3> - -<p>A market for weavers is established on both sides of the bridge of Erghándí at -Gokdereh (the valley of Olympus) the small windows of each shop look on to the -torrent of Gokdereh, which flows beneath. The shops are covered with lead, and -the bridge is shut in on two sides by iron gates pierced with loopholes. A part of -the bridge is reserved for the use of strangers to fasten up their horses. There is -no covered bridge like this, either in Arabia, Persia or Turkey. The name of this -bridge, Erghándí, is derived from the word Erghalándí, which signifies, “it has -been shaken,” and to which the following tradition is attached:—</p> - -<p>In the time of Sultán Orkhán, a warrior, going early to the bath here, heard a -voice, saying, “Shall I come out or not?” The soldier being a brave fellow, called -out, “Come out,” adding a curse or two; when out broke from the place whence -the sound came, a rich treasure, with great shaking and trembling of the earth -(Erghálandí). The soldier, upon seeing such a quantity of gold coins, went and -related the story to Orkhán, who advised him to spend in pious works, what<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -Heaven had thus granted him. He took the treasure to his home, paid a tenth -of it to the revenue, and then built this bridge, which took its name from the circumstance. -There are forty-eight large and small bridges in and about Brússa. The -streets and some of the markets are adorned with festoons of grapes, which grow -here in great plenty, and others with tall plane-trees and willows. Brússa is truly a -garden-town; the number of gardens is said to be forty-seven thousand, all -abundantly supplied with water.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>Of these there are no less than three hundred and sixty-five, so that there is one -for every day in the year. The finest is that of Búnár-báshí, where if you eat -roast meat and drink of the water, you feel hungry again immediately; of such -digestive power is the water: a mosque adorns this famous walk. The walk of -the Mevleví-kháneh, or convent of Dervishes, built by Orkhán, where twice a -week the Mevlevís assemble for their religious dances (sima’á), and afterwards -take their pleasure in the fields. The walk of Abdál Murád Sultán is situate in a -valley high up on Mount Olympus, whence the finest view of Brússa is obtained. -The verdure is so luxuriant, that the earth seems covered with green velvet. -There are plane-trees, willows, cypresses and box-trees, of an immense height, -under the shade of which ten thousand men may procure shelter. Swings are -fastened with ropes to some of these trees, where lovers and their beloved swing -each other. There are benches for company and benches for prayer; it is a most -delightful place, and extends as far as the eye can reach. The walk of Fissdíklí is -adorned with pine-trees, and is a secluded but very pleasant corner. The walk of -Karanfillí, on the way to Kaplíjah, is a resting-place. The walk of Kaplí Kiaya is -a fine spot without any buildings, and surrounded by woods, and that of Abd-ul-múmen -is above all praise. Outside of the town, to the east, in a chesnut-wood, -half an hour’s distance from the foot of Mount Olympus, stands the fountain of -A’ssá, which is said to have rushed forth by a miracle, when the great Saint Emír -Sultán struck his staff (a’ssá) into the ground on this spot. The chesnuts are -grafted trees, each not weighing above forty drachms. The walk of Sobrán is -also adorned with chesnut-trees. The place of Ulumest is a convent for the -accommodation of strangers. The pleasure-place of Kazí-yailá (the judge’s Alp) -is situate half-way up Mount Olympus, and is ascended from below in five hours. -The Okmeïdán, or archery-ground, is so pleasant a place, that it is beyond all -description. The walk of the Monks’ mountain (Olympus) obtained its name -from its having been the retreat of Greek Monks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span></p> - - -<h3><i>A Dissertation on Mountains.</i></h3> - -<p>God created one hundred and forty-eight mountains, as locks of the earth, -which is held together by them when shaken by earthquakes; this is hinted in the -verses of the Korán, “His (God’s) are the keys of the earth and Heaven;” -and again, “and the mountains as pales”. According to geographers there are in -the first climate, nineteen; in the second, twenty-seven; in the third, thirty-one; -in the fourth, twenty-four; in the fifth, twenty-nine; in the sixth, thirty-six; -and in the seventh, thirty-seven great mountains. The root of all mountains -is mount Káf, thus designated by the verse of the Korán, “Káf and the glorious -Korán;” it surrounds the earth and is reached by the Kalmúks beyond the ice-sea; -they call it in their language Yaldarák Ták. If it pleases God, I shall -describe it when I undertake that journey. Since the time of Alexander none but -the Kalmúks have seen Mount Káf, they assemble every forty or fifty years to -the number of seventy, or eighty thousand, in order to visit it. The Caucasus -(Kúh-al-burz) faces the desert of Tartary called Heihát, the great mountain of -Germany (Riesengeburg), and the mountain of the moon twenty farsangs beyond -the equator, where the Nile originates. Mount Olympus was the first of these -mountains which I ascended with a goodly company; we took litters, tents and -all necessary preparations with us, and set out from Búnár-báshí ascending -during five hours. The first height, Ghází Yailá, is so called because the Moslim -victors (Ghází) had a station here during the siege of Brússa, which lasted a -whole year. It is a pleasant spot with meadows and chesnut-trees, a small rivulet -running through it is full of trout. From this place a full view of the town of -Brússa is obtained. Five hours further on is the table-land called Sobrán -Yailássí, a large plain with chesnut-woods; trout are also found in the lakes of -it; we took a great many of them, and ate them fried with fresh butter; each -fish seemed like one of the dishes Jesus multiplied amongst the people (six -thousand men). Some hundred thousand sheep graze here, descended from the -forty thousand sheep of Sultán Osmán: the shepherds are Turks, they brought -us some sheep as a present, which we immediately roasted, and passed the night -in the open air. Next day we mounted again in a south-east direction (Kibláh) -the road lined with hyacinths, roses, basilicon, and other flowers, the scent of which -perfumed our brains. We refreshed ourselves with water from the living spring, -and came after three hour’s travelling to the place called Menzíl Bakajak, where -we halted three days and three nights in the woods, delighting in fresh fish and -roasted sheep. This place is called Bakajak, or look-out, because from hence on -the nights previous to Ramazán they watch for the new moon, and, as soon as -they see it, light a fire to give notice to the town, where the guns are fired to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -announce the commencement of the fast. This look-out is on the top of an -isolated rock, which stretches towards the town like an elephant’s proboscis and -hangs over so deep a precipice that nobody dares look down. From it the plain -Filehdár, with all its villages, fields, and cultivated grounds appear, like a picture -on paper. It is so steep and prominent that the great mosque, the castle and -bezestán of Brússa seem as it were sinking into the base of the mountain, and -from the summit cannot be seen at all. Rocks towering to the sky take the -appearance here of many strange shapes, such as dragons, elephants and eagles. -We mounted still further in the direction of the Kiblah through flowery meadows, -where no tall trees were to be seen, and after five hours came to the station of -Sultán Suleïmán’s fountain-head. A delightful spot with a spring of water so -cold that a man cannot take out of it three stones in succession. There is here a -large mass of rock the size of the cupola of a bath, which vibrates on being -touched, and also many rivulets containing trout of one or two becas each. -These rivulets and brooks being frozen in the winter, the head ice-man, (Kárjí-báshí) -sends two or three hundred persons to cut the ice, which, transparent as -crystal and brilliant as diamonds, is used in summer to cool their sherbet by the -inhabitants of Constantinople and Brússa. Some hundred ass-loads are every day -embarked at Modania for the use of the coffee-houses, Imperial kitchens, and the -Imperial Harím; for the Vezírs, the Kází-askers, and the Muftis.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Ice-worm.</i></h3> - -<p>This is a worm, which is found in the midst of ice and snow as old as the -creation, but is difficult to find; it has forty feet, and forty black spots on its back, -with two eyes as red as rubies, all ice, without a tongue, and its interior filled -with an icy fluid; it shines like a diamond but melts quickly away, because it is all -ice. In size, it is like those cucumbers which are sold for seed at Lángabestán, -sometimes larger, sometimes smaller. The ice-worm I brought to Sultán Ibrahím -was smaller than a cucumber. It is an aphrodisiac, sharpens the sight, and -makes a man as healthy and vigorous as a new-born child. It is rarely found, and -falls but to the lot of kings! It is said that on the Caucasus they are of the size -of dogs, with four feet, living and walking among the ice and snow. Faith be -upon the teller! I have not seen them.</p> - -<p>Above the station of Súleimán vegetation ceases and the mountain is barren. -Kulleí Jehán, the tower of the world, is on the topmost peak of the monk’s mountain -(Olympus) whence beneath your feet the clouds may be seen passing over -the town. It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top; being so very -high it is entirely barren; the mountains of Cútahía are seen from the south<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -side; the mountains of Sogúd from the East, and from the west side the mountains -of Galipolis, beyond the White Sea. The summits of the Seven Towers and -of the Minárehs of Sultán Ahmed, may be discerned from hence when the sun -shines on Constantinople. From its height, it is so much exposed to the wind, -that if men did not cling to, or shelter themselves behind, the rocks, the wind -would blow them away like cotton. On the highest spot is a burying place, the -four sides composed of immense stones; it is the tomb of Sa’dán the son of -Landha, who is said to have taken refuge here from fear of Hamzah. Near it is -a deep dark cave which leads to seventy or eighty small cells, where Monks -resided in the time of the Byzantine Empire; on some of them are inscriptions in -Greek and Latin, two thousand years old. People who come to the top also -write their names in this place. We again mounted our horses and came after -ten hours ride, ascending and descending, to the Victor’s height, Ghází Yailá, -from whence, after another ride of ten hours, we arrived at Brússa.</p> - - -<h3><i>Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>There are many thousand rich merchants and learned divines who dress in -sable pelisses. Being in Asia, the language is related to the Turkish, hence -they say Ahmed Chepú instead of Ahmed Chelebí; Memet Chepú instead of -Mohammed Chelebí; Assmíl instead of Ismaíl; Jafár instead of Ja’fer, besides -some words and expressions entirely unknown; young men of the town however -speak with great purity. Their principal occupation is the cultivation of silk, the -manufacture of velvets and other stuffs of Brússa called Sereng and Chátma, it -is also famed for the manufacture of cushions for sofas.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Climate of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The longest day is fifteen hours: the inhabitants are fresh-coloured on account -of the healthy air, but as Mount Olympus intercepts the southerly winds, the -air is dull and heavy when they blow. The youth are numerous and have -been celebrated in many a town-revolt (Shehrengíz). The women are exquisite -beauties, with well-arranged teeth, and well-arranged words; their hair curled -and dressed in tresses is celebrated in the poetical expression Kessúí merghúleh. -The men attain a very old age; in short the pleasant advantages which this town -affords are not to be met with elsewhere. The people are of a graceful stature, -silver bodies, cautious, and so eloquent that when they speak they never fail to -produce the greatest effect on their hearers.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>The first is white bread of the kind called Súmún, which is as good as the best<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -of Constantinople; then that sort of bread called Chákil, like white roses; the -Gozlemeh, the Kerdeh, a kind of roast mutton dressed over a stove (Tennúr). The -sheep which are very fat come from Mount Olympus. The white Halvá of -Brússa is also celebrated.</p> - -<p>The beverages are the delicious water of the head fountain Búnár-báshí and -seventeen other principal springs; excellent coffee from Yemen, very good búza, -the sherbet Khanedán-beg (smiling Prince), that of Tírelí-oghlí, Karan-fillí and -Shujáb.</p> - -<p>The fruits are forty-day pears, exquisite grapes, apricots, cherries, and chesnuts -famous all over the world. These chesnuts, weighing forty drachms each, are -put on spits with the meat, the juice of which penetrates them; they grow so -succulent that it is almost impossible to leave off eating them till one dies. The -seven day mulberries are also famous. The plain of Filehdár is laid out in mulberry -plantations, because the chief product of Brússa is silk, which is said not to -be equalled by the Persian silk of Shirwán.</p> - -<p>The manufactures are those of ruby-coloured velvet, like that made at Genoa, -Brússa linen of different colours, aprons called Kirk-kalem, purses of silk, silken -nets, and finally cushions of cut velvet called Chátma munakkash katífeh.</p> - - -<h3><i>Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns.</i></h3> - -<p>The Seljúk family arrived in the country of Rúm (the Asiatic provinces of the -Roman Empire) in the year 476 (1083). They first allied themselves with the -Danishmend family, and occupied with them the districts of Malatia, Cæsarea, -Alayeh, and Konia. The Seljúkians took up their residence in the latter town, -while the Danishmend family resided in those of Sivás and Erzerúm. Melek -Ghází died at Nigissár and is buried there; Ala-ud-dín the prince of the Seljúk -family, called Toghrúl-beg, the ancestor of the Ottoman family from Mahán was -a relation of his, and created him a Beg; he made some inroads from Konia on -Nicæa, Brússa and Nicomedia. Ertoghrúl-beg, who was invested with drum and -banner, had not yet the right of striking coins and of the Friday prayer, he was -buried at Sogudjek near Nicæa. His son Osmán-beg was the first absolute -monarch of the Ottoman family whose name was struck on the coin, and prayer -said by Túrsún Fakíh, 699 (1299). He married the daughter of Sheikh Edebálí -who became the mother of Orkhán, and through whom the Ottoman Sultáns are -related to the prophet. Until the time of Mohammed II. these princes were -called Beg. Mohammed II. was the first called Sultán by Akshems-ud-dín and -whose name was struck upon coins. Selím I. was then proclaimed servant of -Mecca and Medina by Kemál-páshá-zadeh, and Ebúsúd Efendí the famous Muftí<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -added to the title of Sultán Súleimán, that of Sultán of two lands, and Khakán of -two seas, because he had conquered Baghdád and Rodos, but if he lost either of -them he was to lose the title also.</p> - - -<h3><i>Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán.</i></h3> - -<p>He conquered the castles of Bílejik, Ainegol, Kara-hissár, Inogí, Iznik, Kopru-hissár, -Elibád-hissár, Castel, Kítah, Bígha, &c. Osmán-beg reigned twenty-one years -after the death of Sultán Ala-ud-dín, and died at the age of sixty-nine, after having -reigned twenty-six years, at the moment Brússa fell into the hands of his son.</p> - - -<h3><i>Conquests of Sultán Orkhán.</i></h3> - -<p>The Castles of Yází, Kogreh, and in Rúmelí, Yanbolí, Galibolí, Moderní, Kojá -Elí, Iznikmid, Belakabád, Brússa, Taraklí, Goinek, Karassí, Bálikersí, Bergama, -Adremyt, Ashlúna, Rodosto, and Búlair; the last was conquered by Súleimán-páshá, -Orkhán’s son, who lies buried there.</p> - - -<h3><i>Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb.</i></h3> - -<p>Sultán Orkhán died in the year 771 (1369), he is buried with his father Osmán -beneath a cupola in the mosque of the inner castle; he died, after a reign of -forty-one years, at the age of sixty-four; he was a mild monarch, a father to the -poor, and a warrior in the ways of God. The divines of his time were David -Kaissarí of Caramania, he was named Kaissarí because he was brought up at -Cæsarea, he commented on the text of Mohay-ud-dín Arabí and was a second -Taftazání in mystic science. He was the first Professor (Muderris) of the College -which Sultán Orkhán built at Nicæa. Molá Ala-ud-dín commonly called Eswed -Khojá (the black master) who commented doctrinally on the work Moghní-ul-lebíb -and also on the book, Wikayit. Molá Jenderelí Kará Khalíl, who was first -created Kází-asker of Anatolia by Orkhán. Molá Hassan Kaissarí, one of the -greatest Jurisconsults; he wrote a good commentary on Andalusian prosody, he -was a disciple of Mohay-ud-dín, and completed his education at Damascus.</p> - - -<h3><i>Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the great Saint.</i></h3> - -<p>When young he never mixed with other boys but sought retirement and scorned -all worldly pursuits. He refused to accept the dignity of Sultán which was offered -him by his father, who died a Prince in Khorassán. Forty years long he did -nothing but pray and fast, and arrived at such a degree of perfection, that in the -night, during his sleep, his soul migrated from his body into the world of spirits, -and he became filled with the mystic science of spirits, and divine knowledge.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -One Day the men of Khorassán asked him to perform a miracle as a proof of his -sanctity; he then performed many miracles, and was acknowledged by all the -great men of Khorassán to be their superior. My ancestor, the pole of poles, the -Sultán of learning, the fountain head of science, the chief of the Sheikhs of -Turkistán, Khojá Ahmed Yessúí Ibn Mohammed Hanefí, was his disciple, and -hinted that he had received from him even the gift of direction to bliss (Irshád), -and of true Dervishship, which Gabriel brought from Paradise, with its symbols, the -crown, the habit, the carpet, the lamp, the table, and the banner, to Mohammed -the true fountain-head of all Dervishship. The prophet delivered the direction -to Imám Alí, from whom it came to his son Hossein, who bequeathed it to Imám -Zein-ul-ábedín, who left it to Ibrahím Almokerrem, who when in the prison of -Merván handed over to Abú Moslim, the crown and gown, carpet and table, lamp -and banner, the symbols of Dervishship. From him they came to the Imám -Mohammed Báker, then to his son Imám Ja’fer, and to his son Mússa Kázím, -and from him to Ahmed Yessúí the head of the Sheikhs of Turkistán, who -being asked by his disciples to leave to them the aforesaid symbols, never -consented till Hájí Begtásh made his appearance, who became by the possession -of it, the pole of the poles (Kutbal-atkáb).</p> - -<p>Hájí Begtásh of Khorassán was the son of the Seyyid Ibrahím Mokerrem, -who died in the prison of Merván, as it has been just said, and there is no doubt -of his descent in direct lineage from the Prophet; the history of Ain Alí gives, -however, the following genealogy: Seyyid Mohammed Hájí Begtásh, the son -of Seyyid Músá Nishabúrí, son of Seyyid Ishak Essákin, son of Seyyid Ibrahím -Mokerrem El-askerí, son of Seyyid Mússa Ebí Sebha, son of Seyyid Ibrahím -Elmurteza, son of Imám Músa Alkázim, who had thirty-seven children. Hájí -Begtásh’s father left Khorassán after his father’s death and established himself at -Nishabúr, where he married Khatmeh the daughter of Sheikh Ahmed and by her -had Hájí Begtásh. While yet a boy he was distinguished for his devotion, and -was entrusted to the care of Lokmán, one of the disciples of Ahmed Yessúí, from -whom he learned the exoteric and esoteric sciences. Lokmán had been invested -with the religious habit of Imám Ja’fer by the hand of Báyazíd Bostámí. -With this habit Lokmán invested Hájí Begtásh. This is the crown or turban -which has twelve folds in remembrance of the twelve Imáms, and the white -abbá with sleeves like a jubbeh, which is worn by the Dervishes of the order of -Begtásh. By order of Ahmed Yessúí he accompanied Mohammed Bokhara -Sáltik with seven hundred men, Shems-ud-dín Tebrízí, Mohay-ud-dín Al-arebí, -Kárí Ahmed Sultán, and other pious men and Saints into Rúm, where the -Ottoman dynasty took its rise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span></p> - -<p>Hájí Begtásh instituted the new militia called Yenícherí, and having established -his seven hundred disciples in the towns conquered by Sultán Orkhán, he sent -Mohammed Bokhara Sárí Sáltik into Dobrúja, Wallachia, Moldavia, Poland and -Russia. The seven hundred convents of Dervishes, Begtáshí, which actually -exist in Turkey, are derived from the seven hundred disciples of Hájí Begtásh. -Hájí Begtásh died in Sultán Orkhán’s reign, and was buried in his presence -in the capital of Crimea, where a Tátár princess raised a monument over his -tomb. This monument having fallen into decay Sheitán Murád, a Beg of -Cæsarea of Sultán Súleimán’s time, restored and covered it with lead. If it please -God we shall describe it in its proper place. Sheikh Seyyid Ahmed Ruffa’í, -buried at Ladika near Amasia. Sheikh Hassan Rufa’í, buried at Tokát near -Sunbullí, was the nephew of the former. Sheikh Geigli Bábá was a Dervish -of the Begtáshís. Sheikh Kárá Ahmed Sultán a Persian prince, who when on -his travels came to Sultán Orkhán, was initiated by Hájí Begtásh, and is buried -at Ak-hissár. Sheikh Abdál Mússa Súltán, and Sheikh Abdál Murád, both of -Sultán Orkhán’s time.</p> - - -<h3><i>Short account of Sultán Murád I.</i></h3> - -<p>He gave caps (Úskúfa) to the janissaries, embroidered with gold; built a -mosque at Bilejk, another mosque at Brússa and a convent for Postín Púsh Bábá. -He was assassinated in the year 791, after the battle of Khassova, by Milosh -Kúblakí. A cupola is erected over the spot, which was renewed by my gracious -Lord Melek Ahmed Páshá.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár.</i></h3> - -<p>He is buried on the west side of Brússa near old Kaplíjah, beneath a large -cupola. His arrow, bow and quiver are suspended over his tomb, with the bloody -garment in which he was killed, which fills with awe all who enter this monument. -He was seventy years of age at his death, and had reigned thirty.</p> - - -<h3><i>Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd.</i></h3> - -<p>Besides numerous conquests in Anatolia, he passed seven times in one year -from Anatolia into Wallachia, and from the rapidity of his movements obtained -the name of Ilderím (lightning). He besieged Constantinople, and established a -judge there and seven hundred Mussulmán houses, from the Flour-hall (Ún-kapán,) -to the Rose mosque, also the tribunal of Sirkejí-tekkieh. In the year 805, -following bad advice, he waged war against Timúr, and was taken prisoner by the -Tátárs after a long struggle on foot, his horse having been thrown down. Brought -into Timúr’s presence, he was well received, but Timúr asking what he would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> -have done to him had he been taken prisoner; Báyazíd answered, that he would -have put him into an iron cage and carried him to Brússa; Timúr being enraged, -ordered Báyazíd to be put into an iron cage, intending to carry him into Persia, -but he died on the third day of a violent fever.</p> - -<p>His son, Mohammed Chelebí pursued Timúr’s army towards Amasia, and had -tents made of the skins of the slain Tátárs, beneath which he sheltered himself -from the sun. The field of the above defeat is called to this day, in derision, -Táshak-ová-sí. He took his father’s corpse from the enemy, and buried it -in the mosque he had built at Brússa. Sultán Murád IV. when he visited this -tomb gave it a kick with his foot, saying: “What, do you lie here like a monarch,—you, -who have destroyed the Ottoman honour, and have been made prisoner by -the Tátárs?” At the moment he kicked the coffin, he cried, “Oh! my foot!” -and from that day was attacked by the gout, which carried him off. He lived -sixty-seven years, and reigned fourteen; he was a great Emperor, but could not -war against fate.</p> - -<p>The Divines of his time were Sheikh Sheháb-ud-dín Sivássí, who composed a -valuable commentary, and is buried at Aya Solúk (Ephesus); Khosb-ud-dín of -Nicæa, who contended much with Timúr; Simánezadeh Sheikh Bedr-ud-dín Ben -Mahmúd Ben Abd-ul-azíz; the Mevlená Fakhr-ud-dín the Persian, buried at -Adrianople; Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím Ben Emír Azíz Merzifúní, and the Sheikh Pír -Elías, who is buried at Amasia.</p> - - -<h3><i>Short account of Sultán Mohammed I.</i></h3> - -<p>He first shared the Empire with his brethren Súleimán, Mússa, and Issa -Chelebí, whom he subdued in one year and became absolute monarch. -He built Yerkoí (Gimgera) on the banks of the Danube. He died in 824, and -lies buried beneath a painted cupola before his mosque called the green building, -(Yeshil Imáret), he was forty-seven years old, and had reigned seven years. He -was the first who sent a Surreh, or present of money, by the caravan of pilgrims, to -the poor of Mecca and Medina. He finished the old mosque at Adrianople, the -foundations of which had been laid by his brother Mússa, and built a cupola near -Philippolis over the tomb of Ghází Mohammed Beg, at the place called Kúnis.</p> - -<p>The divines and learned men of his time were Kara Shems-ud-dín Semaví, -famed for his works and travels, who was exiled from Brússa to Zaghrah in Rúmelí, -where he is buried. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí Ben Abd-ur-rahmán Ben -Alí Ben Ghánem.</p> - - -<h3><i>Short account of the Reign of Murád II.</i></h3> - -<p>The soldiers having revolted, dethroned him under the pretext that he had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -grown too old, and put his son Mohammed II., who was only thirteen years of -age in his place; but being found incapable to hold the reins, the janissaries again -displaced Mohammed II. sending him to Magnesia, and recalled old Murád to the -throne. Afterward in the year 855 they deposed Murád II. for the second time, -and Mahomed II., then twenty-one years old, obtained absolute sway, and took -up his residence at Constantinople. His father died the next year (856) at Adrianople, -but was buried at Brússa. He lies in more magnificent state than any of the -Sultáns buried at Brússa, his tomb being covered with a golden stuff. He was -thirty-nine years old when he died, and had reigned twenty-eight years. He built -the mosque Ujsherfelí at Adrianople, two other mosques, a Dar-ul-hadíth, a -Bezestán, and the bridge of Erkeneh with a mosque. He was the first who -assigned a salary to the Seyyíds or Sherífs.</p> - -<p>The Divines and Sheikhs of his time were Zekeriah Khalvetí, the disciple of Pír -Elías, who is buried near him, and Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán Ben Hassám-ud-dín, -commonly called Gumishlí-zádeh; he was the son-in-law of Pír Elías, and having -had the honour of kissing the hands of the three sons of Murád II., he foretold to -Mohammed II. that he would conquer Constantinople, and establish the true faith -there.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tombs of Ottoman Princes.</i></h3> - -<p>Ala-ud-dín Páshá, son of Osmán, who died in 804, lies near his brother Orkhán; -Shehinshah, son of Báyazíd, Governor of Brússa; Mohammed, son of Báyazíd, -and eight princes, brethren of Sultán Selím I. whom he killed when going to war -against Prince Ahmed, are all buried near Orkhán; also their brother Ahmed, who -was strangled by Sultán Selím, and sent hither. Ahmed’s son Murád fled into -Persia to Sháh Ismaíl, where, at the end of three years, he died, and was buried at -Erdebíl near Sháh Safí. Two of his brothers, who had been spared at the intercession -of the Ulemas, died soon after at Constantinople of the plague, and are -also buried here. Korkúd, who, persecuted by Selím I., was taken at Tekkah in -a cavern with his governor Piáleh and killed (909), is buried beneath a private -cupola near Murád II. Prince Hassan, the son of the latter and brother of -Mohammed II., and who was strangled soon after his brother had ascended the -throne, also lies buried here near his father; so also does the unfortunate Jem, -brother of Báyazíd II. He left a cup, which, on being emptied, filled itself again, -an ape who played at chess, and a white parrot, which was dyed black by Sa’dí the -poet of Jem, and presented to the Sultán, saying the words, “We belong to God, -and return to him.” In the year 1074 (1663) at the time I, poor Evliyá, was on -my journey to Vienna, Prague and Lúnjat (?), I conversed with many monks and -patriarchs, who all agreed that Jem was the son of a French princess, who being taken<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -by Mohammed II. at the point of the Seraglio, became the mother of Báyazíd and -Jem. The three brethren of Mohammed I., Issa, Mússa and Súleimán are buried -beside their father Báyazíd at his mosque. There are many hundred princes and -princesses buried at the mosque of Sultán Murád II. at Brússa. Chelebí Sultán -Mustafa, the son of Súleimán I., who, on the invidious report of his enemies, was -strangled by his father, also lies buried in the tomb of Sultán Murád II., though -some pretend that he is interred on the east side of the courtyard gate of Eyyúb, -but that is another Mustafa, who was killed by his father Súleimán, he having had -two sons of that name. The first six Ottoman emperors are also interred at -Adrianople, at the heads of their coffins a particular kind of turban is placed, with -folds and farthingales, after the fashion of Mahán, the town of Khorassán. The art -of folding them has descended from father to son in one family, from the time of -the Seljúkians. Mahommed II. wore the Urf (a kind of round turban), and -the conqueror of Egypt wore the Selímí; may it last for ever!</p> - - -<h3><i>Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa.</i></h3> - -<p>Sheikh Geiklí Bábá Sultán was one of the followers of Ahmed Yessúí, and came -from Azerbeiján. He used to ride on wild roes in the woods, and load gazelles -with his baggage after he had harnessed them. He planted a tree near the Seráï -in the castle at Brússa, which has now arrived at a great height. His tomb at -Brússa in the great convent was built by Orkhán.</p> - -<p>Abdál Mússa, also a disciple of Ahmed Yessúí, came from Khorassán with Hájí -Begtásh to Rúm. He was a companion of Geiklí Bábá, and was present with him -at the conquest of Brússa, where he was buried in a convent.</p> - -<p>Abdál Murád Sultán, one of the Saints lost in abstraction (Santons), who was -present at the conquest of Brússa. He is buried in a convent facing the town on -the South side, in a pleasant place, which is at the same time a pleasure garden -for the inhabitants of Brússa. A sword, three cubits long is shown here from -which Sultán Ahmed I. cut off one cubit’s length, which he placed in his treasury.</p> - -<p>Molá Shems-ud-dín Mohammed Ben Mohammed Ben Hamza Ben Mohammed -Fanarí, the sun of hidden things, and the moon of life, one of the first divines of -Sultán Ilderím, has left works on seventy different scientific subjects, but by -God’s will became blind at last. It is related that having opened the grave of -his master Kara Ala-ud-dín, a voice was heard saying: “Art thou there? God -deprive thee of sight!” and a whirlwind rising at the same moment blew all the -dust of the grave into his eyes, by which he became blind. He was one of the -divines who denied the verse; “The earth does not eat the flesh of the Ulema.” -Aúz-páshá, Sultán Orkhán’s Vezír, having a spite against Fanárí, said,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> “May I see -the day on which I shall perform the prayer for the dead over this blind Mollá’s -grave.” This being told to the Mollá, he said “God Almighty can yet take away -the sight of the Páshá, and give me back mine to perform prayer on his grave;” -and it so happened that Aúz-páshá having had his eyes put out by command of -Sultán Orkhán for a badly executed commission, Fanarí had his sight restored to -him the same night, and performed the prayer of death on the Páshá. He died in -the year 833, and reposes at Brússa near his college.</p> - -<p>Shems-ud-dín Mahommed Ben Alí, called Emír Sultán, born at Bokhára, came -first to Mecca, and then to Medina, where the Sherífs refused to give him the -portion allotted to the Sherífs, though he was entitled to it by his descent from -the prophet through Hossein. The Saint appealed to the decision of the prophet -himself, and went to his tomb accompanied by his adversaries, where, having saluted -the grave, a voice was heard, saying: “Health to you my child, Mohammed Ben -Ali, go to Rúm with the lamp;” upon hearing which the Sherífs instantly threw -themselves at his feet, and Emír Sultán undertook the journey to Rúm, whereupon -a lamp suspended in heaven became his guide to show him the way, and was -only extinguished when he entered the town of Brússa. He took this as an -evident sign that he was to fix his residence there, where he had four hundred -thousand disciples. The inhabitants of Brússa had seen the lamp for three days, -and knew by that miracle that he was a great saint. They all became Dervishes -under his direction. Báyazíd Ilderím not only walked on foot by the side of his -stirrup, but also gave him his daughter Nilúfer Khánum in marriage. Ilderím -having built the great mosque Úlújámí at Brússa, and having asked Emír -Sultán whether it was not a perfect mosque, the Saint answered; “Yes, it is a -very elegant mosque, but some cups of wine for the refreshment of the pious are -wanting in the middle.” The Sultán replied with surprise; “How, would it be -possible to stain God’s house with the liquor forbidden by the law.” “Well,” -said the Saint, “thou hast built a mosque, Báyazíd, and, find it strange to put -cups of wine therein; and thou whose body is God’s house, more excellent -than a talisman composed of the divine names, or the throne of God, how is it -thou art not afraid of staining the purity of this godlike house with wine day -and night.” From that moment Báyazíd, repenting, left off drinking wine. -When Timúr marched against Brússa the inhabitants being alarmed, inquired -of Emír Sultán what was now to become of the town. The Saint said, “the -commander of the town having recommended it to the care of Eskejí Kojá and -Khizr, they must be informed of it.” Ilderím being defeated, Emír Sultán wrote a -note which he sent by one of his Dervishes into the camp of Timúr, with an order -to deliver it to Eskejí Kojá, that is to the chief of the tailors who mend old clothes.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -Having read the Saint’s note, he said, “Emír Sultán shall be instantly obeyed;” -he stuck his needle in his turban, and before he could put up his things in his -bag, all the tents of the camp were broke up by the power of his command, -because this old tailor happened also to be a pole of poles, or great Saint. Emír -Sultán died in the year 833 (1429), and is buried outside of Brússa to the -East, beneath a high cupola; the gates are inlaid with silver, so also is the -entrance, by which you descend six steps. The walls are covered with variegated -china (Chíní). The four windows looking westward to the field of Brússa are -brass; four others look towards the Kiblah into the yard of the mosque. The -great number of suspended ornaments which adorn the interior of the mosque are -equalled only by those of Medina; the silk carpets are richer than are found -elsewhere. The tomb is encircled by gold and silver lamps, candlesticks, candelabras, -and vases for perfumes and rosewater. On the coffin lay Koráns by the -hands of Yakút Mostea’-assemí, Sheikh Bekrí, Abd-allah Krími Kháledí, Timúrjí -Kúlí, Zehebí, Ibn Sheikh-dedeh Mohammed, Kará Hissári, Hassan Chelebí, &c. -The coffin is covered with silk embroidered with gold, and at the head a large -turban reposes majestically. Those who enter are struck with such awe, that -many do not dare attempt it, but only look into it by the window at the head, and -recite a Fátihah. On the south side of the tomb is a very elegant mosque, the -four sides of which are laid out in cells for the poor, who dine here at the Imáret. -When Sultán Selím I., after the death of his brother Ahmed, visited the tomb of -Emír Sultán, a voice was heard, saying: “Enter Egypt in security,” which was -interpreted as news of the conquest of Egypt, which Emír Sultán promised to -Selím I., and on that intimation Kemál-páshá-zádeh instantly said a Fátihah.</p> - -<p>The Muftí of divine secrets, the champion of mystic illumination, Sheikh Abd-ur-rahmán -Ben Alí Ben Ahmed Al-bostámí, a great lawyer, who was also a good -poet, is buried at Brússa. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí Ibn Abd-ur-rahmán -Ibn Alí Ibn Ghánem Al-anssarí, having visited the tomb of Sadr-ud-dín at Konia, -the dead saint stretched out his hand from the tomb, drew the Sheikh to him on -the grave, and ordered him to read the Súrá Yass. He then built the convent -Zeiniler, where he is buried. There lived not a greater Saint than him in the -time of Sultán Mohammed I.</p> - -<p>Mevlana Mohammed Shah Ibn Mollá Yegán, one of the Úlemas of Murád I., -buried at Zeiniler. Mevlana Yússúf Bálí Ibn Yegán, who wrote notes on the -Telvíh. Mevlana Seyyid Ahmed Ibn Abd-allah who also wrote notes on the -Telvíh. Mevlana Elias Ben Ibrahím, who wrote an abridgement of the Kodúrí -Sheik Ak Bi’ík Sultán of the Dervishes Bairámí. Sheikh Uzún Mosslah-ud-dín, -who died at Táj-ud-dín’s tomb at Brússa, after having read the Korán for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> -space of forty days. The pole of the spiritual world, the mine of divine science, -Fanárí, a great divine of the time of Murád and Mohammed II., died 834. The -Santon (Mejzúb) Abdál Mohammed on the great road. Sheikh Sultán Ramazán -Bábá, buried in a pleasant meadow at Brússa in a convent of Begtáshís.</p> - -<p>Sheikh Abú Ishak Kazúní, his name was Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak. His -mother, Shehriár, was an Armenian princess and married to one of the princes of -the white sheep (Baiandurí.) He was born in the year 352, in the month of Ramazán, -and was the pole of poles in his day; he is buried at Erzerúm, inside the gate of -Tebríz, beneath the same cupola with Murteza Páshá, who gave up Eriván to the -Persians. When I visited this place the keeper was an old woman with a white -beard, whose story is as follows. At the time of the rebellion of Abáza Páshá -some of his Segbán came to the village Kánkoí, with the intention of ravishing a -beautiful Armenian girl, she being aware of her danger, turned her face to heaven -and said, “O Abu Ishak deliver me from these rioters, and I for the remainder of -my life will watch thy tomb.” At that moment a white beard grew from her -chin, and she thus escaped the pursuit of the Segbán. I have myself seen her -three times. The chapel in memory of Kazúní, which exists at Brússa, was -built by Ilderím; it is opposite to the burying place of the Camel-drivers.</p> - -<p>Chekirkeh Sultán at Eskí Kaplíjah, before the monument of Murád I. Shádí -Sultán near Emír Sultán. Abd-allah Efendí. Sheikh Emír Alí Efendí of the -order of Khalvetís. Karaja Mejid-ud-din. Karanfillí-dedeh at Hassan Páshá’s -gate. Sunbullí-dedeh at the Tátárs’ gate. Sheikh Alí Mest in the same place. -Mollá Arab Jebbári at the foot of the mountain. Mollá Ashjí-dedeh, Hassám-ud-dín -Chelebí, Kháliss-dedeh, &c. Mollá Khosreu Ibn Khizr, the author of the celebrated -canonical work, “Durer-u-gurer;” he is buried near Zein-ud-dín Háfi. There -is a small dark cell, wherein he composed this precious work, which I did not -leave until I had finished the lecture of the whole Korán in it, as an offering to -the blessed spirit of Mollá Khosreu. Sheikh Abd-ul-latíf Mokadessí the Imám of -Ilderím Khán. Sáurimssakjí-zadeh Súleimán Efendí buried near the old Kaplíjah, -he is the author of the “Mevlúd-námeh,” or hymns on the Prophet’s birth sung on -his birth-day. Mollá Bagdádí-zadeh Hassan Chelebí Ibn Yússúf Albagdádí is -buried at the convent of Zeiniler, where he lived and died. Mollá Hassám-ud-dín -Hossein Ben Mohammed, known by the name of Kara Chelebí-zadeh, buried -before the mosque of Emír Sultán. Sheikh Mohammed Uftádeh Efendí of the -order of Jelvetís, buried in the mosque of the inner castle, with a large convent -near it. Mollá Kemál-ud-dín known by the name of Karadedeh, born at the village -Súvinsa near Amasia; he was a tanner, and did not begin to study until he -was sixty years old, seven years afterwards he became Professor of the college<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -of Murád at Brússa; he lived many years after this, and wrote a great number -of books; the work “Dedeh-júngí” is of his composition. He is buried near Emír -Sultán. The Muftí Azíz Efendí who was Sheikh-ul-Islám in Sultán Súleimán’s time, -and being exiled to Brússa died there. Mollá Alí Ben Sáleh celebrated by the -name of Vassí Alí, the author of the “Húmaiún-námeh” (the Turkish translation -of Pilpay’s Fables). Sheikh Núr-allah Ben Ak-Shems-ud-dín, who having fled -from his father to Brússa, accidentally killed himself with his pen-knife, and is -buried near Zeiniler. Mevlana Abd-ul-ghaní Emír Sháh, his birth-place was -Bolí and he is buried at Zeiniler.</p> - -<p>There are besides, some hundred thousand great and holy men buried at Brússa. -Many of their tombs I visited and said a Fátihah in remembrance of their noble -spirits, but I do not know their names. In remembrance of those whom I have -named, I said the Súra Yass, and recommended myself to their favour and -assistance. I began my travels with visits to many great Saints, and said a -Fátihah on behalf of all the Faithful. Health to you, and God’s mercy upon them -all! During forty days and nights I enjoyed all kinds of pleasure at Brússa, and -with my companions took leave of our friends on the 20th of Safer 1050; Okjí-zadeh -Aghá accompanied us as far as the bridge of Nilúfer, from whence we reached -Modania in four hours. Here we sent back our horses, embarked in a light boat, -were tossed about by a stormy sea, and at last reached Bozborún with the greatest -difficulty at the end of twenty-four hours. It was formerly a good harbour but -was neglected because it did not afford sufficient shelter. There is a khán and -a small mosque, some bakers and búza seller’s shops, and no other trace of good -buildings, but it is surrounded with fine gardens. The walls of the mosque are -covered with inscriptions by passengers complaining of this wretched place, there -is no possibility of saying a word for it, because all who reach this point storm-beaten, -have the same cause of complaint. The inscriptions are in different -languages, all lamenting or cursing this place of Bozborún. One cannot refrain -from laughing at some of these odd inscriptions, which are both in prose and -verse. I was obliged to wait here two days, which I spent with ten or fifteen -gay companions walking amongst the gardens and vineyards, which lie to the -East, and eating pears. We walked about three thousand paces into the -district of Armúdlí belonging to Brússa, from whence a Súbáshí is established -here. It derives its name from the quantity of pears (Armúd) which grow on -all the hills, in the valleys, gardens and vineyards. It is a village of three -hundred neat houses, faced with brick, a mosque, a bath, three mesjíds, a khán -and ten shops, the air is very pleasant. We spent a night here, and in the -morning the boatmen advised us to make haste because the wind was favourable,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -which, God be praised, carried us out of this sad whirlpool of Bozborún. At cape -Bábá-borún at the foot of Kátirlí-tágh we said a Fátihah in honour of Bábá -Sultán, and beat up towards Constantinople. We arrived at last at Agios -Stephanos (St. Stefano) which is ruled by a Súbáshí, under the Bostánjí-báshí of -Constantinople, and by a guard of janissaries (Yassakjí Kúllúghí), it is in the -district belonging to the Mollá of Eyyúb. In the time of the Infidels it was a -large town, which was ruined at the siege of the Arabs by Omar Ibn-ul-azíz in -the Khalifat of Súleimán Ibn Abd-allah. It is now a large Greek village of -five hundred houses faced with brick. It has a convent, some small streets and -two churches. We disembarked here and passed the night, walking next day -along the sea shore for three hours to the garden of Iskander Chelebí, which -belonged to the Defterdár of Sultán Selím II., who having died without children, -the garden became an Imperial one. There is an Ustá or master with two -hundred Bostánjí. The Muftí Hossein Efendí, who had been accused by his -enemies of ambitious and dangerous schemes was first exiled to this place by -Sultán Murád IV. and was afterwards seized by the Bostánjí-báshí, strangled and -buried here. He is the first Muftí in the Ottoman history, who like the martyrs -of Kerbela died a violent death; he could repeat forty thousand Fetwas by heart. -We took horse here and rode along the shore in sight of our ship advancing by -the aid of oars, with our baggage.</p> - -<p>Thus returned I, poor Evliya, on the 25th Safer of the year 1050, to Constantinople, -went the same day to my paternal house, and kissed the hands of my -father and my mother. My father crossing his hands said: “Welcome, welcome, -traveller of Brússa!” I was astonished to hear this as I had not told anybody -where I was going to, but my father said: “In the night of A’shúra the 10th -of Moharrem, when I was anxious about thy being lost, I performed many -efficacious prayers, and read the Suna (Ena Atainak) a thousand times. The -same night I saw in my dream that thou wast gone to Brússa to implore Emír -Sultán’s assistance in thy travels. That same night I gave thee leave to go this -journey, which may God bless! but now, my son, sit thee down, touch my left -ear with thy right hand, and hear my paternal advice.” I did so, and he gave me -many moral maxims, and much good advice on the manner of my travels, -enjoining me to compose a faithful and detailed account of them; when he had -finished he gave me a strong box on the ear, concluding his lesson with a -Fátihah. I kissed my father’s hand, who then gave me twelve valuable books -and two hundred well-coined ducats to provide for my travels, and gave me leave -to set out for whatever place I liked. I then also kissed the hands of twelve -great Sheikhs, and to my unspeakable joy obtained their blessings on my under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>taking. -This gave me great satisfaction, and the same week in the first days -of Rebí-ul-evvel, I agreed with one of my relations Kúl Oghlí Mohammed Reis -for a voyage to Ismíd (Nicomedia).</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_NICOMEDIA">JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA.</h2></div> - - -<p>“May God bless and make easy the voyage, Amen!” On Friday at Yemish-iskeleh, -after having performed the Friday prayer in the mosque of Akhí Chelebí, -where I remembered the vision I had had there of the Prophet, whose hand -I kissed, saying, “Siyáhat (travels)” instead of “Shifá’at (intercession) O -prophet of God!” and having given thanks and prayed for health and faith, we -embarked on our voyage, saying “In God’s name!” (Bis millah). With a -fresh breeze we weathered the point of the Seraglio, passed Chalcedonia, the -point of Tener-baghjeh and ran straight before the wind to Darija, a square -castle on a chalk cliff eighty miles from Constantinople. This castle is built of -stone, has one gate, which looks on the harbour, thirty houses faced with brick, -one mosque, but no market or bath, and neither commander nor garrison. -It is said to have derived its name from the children of Darius, who were imprisoned -here in a cave; it was conquered by Mahommed I. in the year 827 -(1423), is ruled by a Súbashí and belongs to the district of Gebízeh. Below the -castle there are three hundred neat houses faced with brick, a mosque, a khán, a -bath, and small streets; its harbour is the port of Gebízeh. At an hour’s -distance from here the road to Erzerúm and Baghdád passes through mountains. -The wind not being favourable we rowed to the passage where travellers to Konia, -Haleb, Damascus and Mecca embark in flat-bottom boats to pass over to Hersek-dílí -on the opposite shore, in order to save the going round the gulf which is -eighty miles long, and at the end of which is situated Nicomedia. In the harbour -of Gebízeh-dílí (the passage on this side) are two old kháns, two bakers-shops, -a búza-shop, two grocers-shops and a fountain, erected by Mustafa Aghá the -Bostánjí-báshí of Sultán Murád IV. 1048 (1638). Here we again embarked and -after rowing three hours arrived at the mineral spring (Ichmesú), where we -disembarked with all our friends, pitched our tents on the shore, and gave ourselves -up to quiet and pleasure.</p> - - -<h3><i>Qualities of a Mineral Spring.</i></h3> - -<p>In the month of July annually, many thousand men from Constantinople<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -assemble here, and live merrily under tents during the space of forty days and -nights, amusing themselves with firing muskets and guns. Sick persons drink of -the water from the well for three days, which causes vomiting, and relieves the -stomach of a quantity of offensive bile, while the lower evacuations cleanse the -intestines of worms and similar matters. It is a white, clear water, with a slight -bitter taste, and issues from a chalk cliff. The regulations prescribed for its use -enjoin a three days fast as a preliminary, no meat or any thing salt must be -eaten; on the fourth day the patient drinks a cup of water morning and evening, -taking care to keep himself warm: he continues to drink the water for the next three -days, taking for food chicken-broth without salt. When the water has had its effect -fifteen times, further operation is stopped, by drinking soup seasoned with lemon-juice. -After this regimen the patients embark and go to the hot-bath of Yalova -directly opposite, where they rest themselves, washing and cleansing their bodies.</p> - -<p>We then re-embarked, and after half an hour’s rowing arrived at the village -of Ainehájí on the sea-coast, a Turkish village with a mosque and sixty houses. -Eight hours further rowing brought us to the village of Zeitún-burní (Olive -Cape) a port of Nicomedia, where the ships belonging to the Aghá of the -Janissaries take in their cargoes; we were pleased with the cultivated appearance -of the country on either side the gulf, and at the end of eight hours more came -to the large town of Nicomedia. It was formerly a strong built and populous -place, the ruins of which still remain; and is said to have been built by Alexander, -to whom the foundation of Scutari is also ascribed; and the canal which was -cut from the lake of Sábanja to the gulf on one side, and from the river Sakaria -to the Black Sea on the other, causing Kojá Ilí and Nicomedia to be completely -insulated; but that communication was choked up by Constantine, and Nicomedia -ceased to be an island. It would be an easy thing to re-establish this canal, by -which means wood might be procured at a very low price. Nicomedia was conquered -by Sultán Orkhán in the year 731 (1330) and destroyed, in order that it -should never again afford shelter to the Infidels. A large square tower of that -period is still standing on the sea-coast, garrisoned by seamen, which is now a -repository for wood and timber. When Orkhán besieged this town he gave -the first command of his troops to Kojá Baí, to whom he said, “Isnim vár git,” -(You have my leave, go,) which became the name of the town, by contraction -of Isnim-git into Ismit. After the conquest of Nicomedia, and Kojá-Baí had -subdued the adjacent country, it was called after his name Kojá Ilí and Nicomedia -was made the capital of it; but by the order of Sultán Mohammed II., Nicomedia -was added to Anatoli, and many times since has been given as Arpalik to Vezírs -of three tails. The imperial Khass amounts to twenty-six thousand, five hundred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -and twenty-six aspers, twenty-five ziámets, one hundred and eighty-seven timárs. -The judge is appointed with three hundred aspers a day, but his annual revenue -may be reckoned at five thousand, and that of the Páshá at twenty thousand -piastres. The port is much frequented by great merchants; its public officers -are, a commander of the janissaries and Sipahís, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The -merchants, most of whom trade in wool, are richly dressed; the invalids of the -janissaries (Otúrák) and Kúrijí are wealthy. The town contains three thousand -five hundred elegant houses with gardens. The largest is the Seráï of Sultán -Murád IV. which is appropriated to the Emperors, and guarded by two hundred -Bostánjís; the next is the Seráï of the Páshá. There are altogether twenty-three -quarters, three of which are occupied by Infidels, and one by Jews; and twenty-three -mosques. At the old market is the mosque of the tribunal with one minareh; the -mosque of Pertev-Páshá, with a leaden cupola and one mináreh, stands on the -sea-shore, it was erected by order of Pertev-Páshá who was governor here for -seven years in the time of Sultán Súleimán. It is an elegant, bright mosque built -by Kojá Sinán. There is no establishment for reading the Korán or tradition. -The best bath is also that of Pertev-Páshá, it is a fine building, there is good air -and water, and attentive waiters. The bath of Rostem-Páshá, like the former, is -Sinán’s work. The best khán is that of Pertev-Páshá with seventy fire-places. -Besides the kháns, two hundred magazines for wood and other materials are in -the port, one thousand one hundred shops of handicraftsmen, and forty coffee-houses, -the most brilliant of which is that of the Serdár, famous for its waiters. -This town has no stone-built Bezestán, but many valuable things are notwithstanding -to be met with in the kháns and shops. Near the palace of the -Emperor is the Imperial arsenal. The houses of the town are all on the side -of the mountain, with the windows looking towards the sea. The streets are all -paved with white stone. At the back of the houses the mountain is laid out in -gardens. The inhabitants are healthy, the air and water being very good; their -complexion is white. The woody mountains East of the town are called Aghá -Danesí (sea of trees), an immense forest in which it is very easy to lose one’s -way; here are trees towering into the skies, under which ten thousand sheep find -shelter in their shade, which the sun’s rays cannot pierce. In these thick forests -are many saw-mills and works which must be seen, for they cannot be described; -they cut trees of one hundred cubits length, and the trees of Yalova are famous -all over the world. At the end of the gulf are salt-marshes which afford pure -salt, and are under the direction of a salt-inspector. The white cherries and -red apples of Nicomedia are famous.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages of Nicomedia.</i></h3> - -<p>On the west side of the town is the tomb of Sheikh-zadeh Mohammed Efendí, a -great Sheikh of the order of Khalvetís, and a great alchemist. He distributed food -and clothes amongst the brethren of his order, though he never had any fixed -revenue. I was entertained for ten days in the house of my relation Kúl-oghlí -Mohammed Chelebí in this town; then embarked and went to the opposite shore -only three miles distance, whence after a journey of thirty miles, we reached the -port of Deal, the further side of which is called Gebízeh’s Deal, while this side is -called Hersek’s Deal or tongue. The origin of this tongue of land is ascribed to a -Dervish, who having been refused a passage by the ferryman, took up earth in his -apron, and threw it into the water, where it grew out immediately into a point, -on which he walked to the length of twelve thousand paces, to the great fright of -the ferrymen, who saw that he was going to unite the two shores and stop their -living. They ran after him, and did not desist from entreating him, till he left the -remainder of the sea open, and entered their boat. He is buried at the Deal of -Gebízeh, on the spot called Deal-bábá. At Hersek Deal is a large Khán for travellers -who wait there for a passage; Hersek-oghlí Ahmed Páshá was Vezír to Mohammed -II., and this Khán, built by him, bears his name. We set sail, and at the -end of fifty miles reached the castle of Kara Yalaváj, built by a Greek princess, -and named Kara Yalaváj-oghlí, who conquered it in the time of Osmán. The -castle was destroyed at the siege, which was difficult and prolonged, the ruins -still remain; in the time of Ilderím this castle was said to belong to the -sanjak of Brússa. The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. -There is a commanding officer of the janissaries and a Súbashi, the town has -seven-hundred houses, faced with brick, and seven mihrabs. In the Market-place -is a mosque with a minareh capable of holding a great number of people, one bath, -three kháns and from forty to fifty shops, but the air being very heavy, agues -frequently prevail. Its yoghúrd and fruits are excellent. Having visited all -that was worth seeing here, we entered our chariots (araba) took a south east -direction, and at the end of five hours arrived at Germáb Jihán-námah, a pleasure -spot in the midst of thick forests, where we found a couple of hundred tents. We -pitched ours and entered into conversation with the guests, who come here after -taking a course of the purgative waters at Deal, to cleanse themselves in the -hotbath, which was built in the time of Yanko Ben Madián. Helena, the -daughter of Yanko, being leprous and exiled to these mountains, discovered by -accident the marvellous quality of these waters; by bathing in them, she became -cured of her leprosy in forty days, which was the cause of this building being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -erected. Her father built six cupolas, of which two are yet existing, with a large -basin beneath, the water of which is extremely hot, but is pleasant when mixed -with cold. These baths are frequented by a great many people in the cherry -season. We remained here a whole week, after which we again started, and at -the end of a five hours journey, came to the castle of Samánlí, which was conquered -in Sultán Osmán’s time by Samánlí-oghlí from whom it took its name. -Its castle is in ruins, and there are but an hundred and fifty houses with gardens, -a mosque and three mesjids, belonging to the district of Yalova. The air is heavy. -We embarked for the island of Heibelí, distant twenty miles, which is nine miles in -circumference, and which we have already mentioned in our journey to Brússa. -Six miles further on is the island Táshánlí, which derives its name (Hare island) -from the infinite number of hares, found there; it is only one mile in circumference, -and is uncultivated. The tree Rakíta (?) grows on this island. After -rowing eight miles we came to the island of Búrgházlí with a strong but small -castle, situate on the chalk cliffs by the sea-shore. The island is eleven miles in -circumference, and is called Búrgház from its castle ([Greek: pyrgos]) it has three hundred -houses with fine gardens and good wells, and is ruled by a Súbashí and Yassakjí, -the inhabitants are all Greeks, and are rich masters of boats. The island abounds -in goats and hares. Their wealth is ascribed by the author of the Taríkhí Yalován, -to the loss of a richly laden Spanish fleet which was wrecked among the Prince’s -Islands in the time of the Greek Emperors, the cargo of which being thrown on -shore or fished up by divers, enriched the inhabitants of Kizilata (Prince’s Island), -Heibelí (Khalki), Borgházlí (Antigone), Táshánlí (Platys or Oxia), and Kanálí -(Proti). The latter island is eight miles in circumference, has a convent and a -village of one hundred houses. Ten miles distant from it is Kizilata (the Prince’s -Island), a cultivated island of twenty miles in circumference, with a village of two -hundred Greek houses. It is called Kizilata or the red island, from the appearance -of its mountains, and is near Scutari. On its four sides Daliáns (look-outs -for catching fish) are established. These islands are seven altogether, ruled by -the Bostanjí-báshí, and form part of the Captain Páshá’s province, who appoints -the Súbashí and a Yassakjí. These seven islands are eighteen miles distance from -Constantinople, in a line between Constantinople and Yelova. I passed seven days -visiting these isles, the weather being unfavourable. At last the wind became -fair, and I entered Constantinople on the first of Rebi-ul-ákhir, after a month’s -absence, landing at Wood-gate. I kissed the hands of my father and mother, -presented them with some gifts from Nicomedia, and received their benediction. -Ketánjí Omer Páshá, an old and particular friend of my father having been -named governor of Trebisonde, he appointed my father as his Kapú Kiaya or agent -at Constantinople, and I accompanied him on the journey to his government.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_BATUM_AND_TREBISONDE">JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE.</h2></div> - - -<p>In the beginning of Jemazi-ul-akhir, 1050, after having taken leave of my -friends, I embarked at the Flour-hall in the ship called Kara-mursal of Fertíl-oghlí -of Trebisonde, and in three hours time arrived at Yenikoí on the Bosphorus, -which has been already described in the first volume. We there took in five -hundred quintals of biscuit, and ten boat-loads of ballast. In seven hours more we -reached the castle of Kavák, which was built by Sultán Murád IV. as stated in -the first volume. Here we read a Fátihah for a prosperous voyage through -the mouth of the Bosphorus, and, trusting in God, we sailed along the Asiatic -rocks, and arrived at the harbour of Irva on the frontiers of Kojá-Ilí, a district -with a Súbashí, a mosque, a khán, from forty to fifty magazines, and one hundred -houses faced with brick and surrounded with gardens. The south and south-east -sides are all gardens. We took in water, and advanced by rowing, along the -Asiatic shore. At the end of thirty-six miles we came to Shila, a jurisdiction of -Kojá-Ilí, here are six hundred houses faced with brick, with a garden to each, -and a mosque at the head of the harbour. The small town of Kefken has a -bath, some shops and a khán. One hundred miles further on we arrived at -the island of Kerpe, which is twenty miles in circumference, but is uninhabited; -it is but a mile distant from the continent of Kojá-Ilí. The small town of -Kándria, with gardens, mosque, khán and bath, is in the mountains of Kándrí -at four hours distance from the island. The river Sakaria here disembogues -into the Black Sea; it rises from the mountains of Cútahia, goes to Kiva, a -place belonging to the district of Nicomedia, and falls into the Black Sea near -Kerpe. There being no wind we rowed ten miles further on, and came to -Akcheshár, a Voivode’s residence in Kojá-Ilí, here is a judge with an income of -one hundred and fifty aspers. It was formerly a fine town, but burnt by the -accursed Cossacks in the reign of Ahmed I. There are now only six hundred -Turkish houses, some faced with brick, and others of wood; on the market-place -stands a brick-built mosque, forty shops but no Bezestán, a bath and three kháns, -one of which was formerly covered with lead. The cultivation of the place is now -in a very low state. It is the harbour of Bolí; on the shore are seventy magazines -full of wood and timber. Mountain on mountain rises on the east side of -the town, and gardens appear one above the other; the people are healthy on -account of the purity of the air. We passed Ereglí (Heraclea) and the tower of -the shepherds (Chobán Kúlessí) a small castle on a lime cliff, but not garrisoned.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -Near it is the statue of the builder, very like life. We passed the rivers Túfadár -and Bárten, the last of which is a great river, where Egyptian ships enter to be -loaded. The Castle of Bárten was built by the Genoese; and is situated at the end -of a gulf eighteen miles in depth. We went from hence eighteen miles further -north, and arrived at Amassra (Amastris) built by the Greek Emperors, the seat of -a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Bolí. The castle is a strong square building -on a high hill, it was attacked at different times by the Russians, who were always -compelled to retreat. It has no Dizdár, but a judge with an income of one hundred -and fifty aspers, and a commanding officer of the janissaries. In the castle is -a mosque and some mesjíds, but no dining or reading establishment. Amassra is -situated on the east of Sinope, distant five days journey by land, and one hundred -miles by sea. It is also on the east side of Heraclea, at a distance of four -days journey by land, and fifty miles by sea. The climate and fruits of this place -are much praised. On the east and west side are two excellent ports, the safest -refuge in the world; at the eastern harbour is a bath, and good magazines. The -river Kayú forms the frontier between the sanjak of Bolí and Kastemúní. It is -forty miles from here to the harbour of Kadoz; at the distance of seventy miles is -reached the point of Kerenbe, a cape like that of Sinope; on the rocks are some -remarkable inscriptions.</p> - -<p>The castle of Ainebolí was built by the Genoese, and is now the seat of a -Súbashí, subordinate to Kastemúní; the judge is appointed with one hundred and -fifty aspers. There is a commanding officer of the janissaries, a Dizdár and garrison. -The castle is a strong pentagon on the seashore; its gate looks to the east, -the houses are all faced with brick, in the market-place are mosques and -mesjíds, a bath and shops, it is the landing-place of Kastemúní, but has -no good harbour. We rowed from hence till we came in sight of the cape of -Sinope, and anchored before Shátir-koí, a pleasant village, where all the passengers -went on shore. The high mountains (Balkán) are covered with tall trees, -which afford excellent timber for the large ships that are built here. The inhabitants -are all ship-builders. Sixty miles to the north, along the seashore, lies the -village of Istefan belonging to Kastemúní; the houses are faced with brick, and -seven miles beyond is the town of Sinope.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope.</i></h3> - -<p>Omer Ben Abd-ul-assíz, the nephew of Súleimán Ben Abd-ullah of the Ommiades, -having laid siege to Constantinople without effect, also besieged this -castle, but retreated without taking it. It was conquered by Úlú-Beg the Lord -of Kastemúní, and again in the year 796 by Ilderím. As it is an extremely strong<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -fortress, it was with difficulty taken after the third siege. It is a free fief entirely -separated from Kastemúní; a Dizdár, Serdár, a judge, Muftí, and Nákíb-ul-ishráf, -are the authorities of the place.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are a commercial people, being mechanics and merchants, with -some Sheikhs and Ulemas. They commonly wear ferrájís of cloth and caftáns -of Bogassin. The mountains on the east and Kiblah side of the town are laid out -in gardens. The town of Kastemúní is three journies distant on the east side. -Sinope is situated on a cape of the Black sea, which bears the same name. -Opposite to it on the European shore of the Black sea are the rocks of Kilghra -Sultán, and the Black sea appears between them like a straight, which widens -towards Constantinople and Trebisonde. Sinope is five hundred miles distant -from Constantinople, and lies on the west side of Samsún at four journies distance. -The castle stands on a high hill with triple walls of Shedád (gigantic or cyclopean) -and was built by the Greeks. It is seven thousand paces in circumference, -and has six thousand six hundred battlements, and eight gates, viz. the sand-gate, -the place-gate, the arsenal-gate, the new-gate, the hospital-gate, the gate -of the inner castle, (Lonjá), the Oghran gate, and the gate of the inner castle -towards the sea. All these gates are of iron and double. The lower part of the -castle on the seashore is washed by the waves on the two sides, its form is an -oblong square; viewed from the top of Mount Búzdepeh it appears like a ship’s -deck divided into three parts. The commander is a constant prisoner, for the -inhabitants are empowered by an Imperial rescript to kill him if he goes further -from the castle than the distance of a cannon’s shot. The garrison consists of -six hundred brave warlike men. In the time of Sultán Ahmed, on a dark night, -the Cossacks took the town by escalade, and the great Vizír Nassif Páshá, was -put to death for having concealed it from the Sultán. It was retaken from the -Infidels and garrisoned with fifty additional men, and provided with one thousand -quintals of powder, a great number of large and small guns, and other arms. -From that period the watch has been kept nightly by two hundred officers and -Chaúches, and after the music of sunset the guards, cry their “all’s well,” (Yeg dir -Allah). The Infidels tried several times to retake it, but were routed and driven -back in great confusion, and God be thanked! they have made no new attempt -since the reign of Sultán Murád IV. The town is divided into twenty-four -quarters, those of the Infidels are on the sea-beach; one thousand one hundred -Infidels pay the tribute (Kharráj) and one hundred are exempted because they are -employed in renewing the fortifications; there are five thousand and sixty ancient -houses of stone, with slated roofs, facing the sea to the west. The oldest mosque -is that in the castle of Ala-ud-dín which has a lead-covered cupola, and a mináreh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -one hundred paces long, in a fair proportion, with three gates. The mihráb -and the place of the Muëzzins are of exquisite workmanship, but the minber is -so elegant that angels alone could adequately describe it; I will make the attempt, -but it will be like a drop in the ocean or a mote in the sun. It was composed by -ancient masters of six different kinds of marble, which are so well put together -that even the cleverest artists, such as Jemshíd would be unable to discover the -joints. All the flowers and blossoms of the earth are here skilfully engraved and -carved, so that in all Islám there is no minber to be compared with this, unless -it be that of the great mosque at Brússa, which, nevertheless, cannot compete with -it in the abundance of floral ornament; in short, all travellers and artists who -behold this minber, place the finger of astonishment on their mouths, for it -seems more like a supernatural than a human work. Being situated in the -suburb of the Castle, it is always crowded with people whose prayers are put up to -Heaven. The remaining mosques are the Súleimánie in the inner castle with -one mínáreh; the new mosque near the gate of the Meidán (Almeida); the Ayá -Sofiáh, an old mosque faced with brick, the mosque Kefelí outside of the gate -of the Meidán, and that of Mohammed Aghá with a well proportioned mínáreh.</p> - -<p>The Baths are as follows:—The bath in the upper part of the market is a -double one, that of the lower is a single one like that on the sea-shore, Yallí, the -building, the air and the water are equally pleasant and agreeable. There is the -college of Sultán Ala-ud-dín and sixty abecedarian schools. When I visited this -town, the inhabitants boasted, that there were two thousand boys and girls who -had learned reading and knew the Korán by heart. There is an Imaret, a house -for lectures on Tradition, and three for reading the Korán, and one thousand -shops, full of valuable goods; provisions, the white bread especially, and beverages -are good. The harbour is excellent, affording shelter for ships against all -quarters of the wind; there is no better port in the Black sea unless it be -that of Báliklava; the best water is found here, and the beautiful symmetry -of the Turkish youth of both sexes is to be attributed to the mildness of the -climate.</p> - -<p>I visited the tombs of Sídí Belál Sultán, Súbhan Khojá, that of Jují Sultán, in -the green monument within the Castle; that of Kází-Beg Sultán in the college -of Ala-ud-dín, that of Bekir Khojá below it, that of Imrza Efendí at the Sand-gate, -and those of Hamza and Emír Efendi near it.</p> - -<p>South of the town is the high mountain called, Búzdepeh (ice peak) opposite -to which the rocks of Kilghra are seen on the European shore; foxes, jackals and -bears abound on this mountain. We spent three days in this town, then re-embarked -and at the end of three miles came to Findíják-ághzí, whose inhabitants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -are all boatmen and ship-builders. The river Kizil Irmák here enters the sea, -it rises from a mountain in the sanjak of Angora, passes under the bridge of -Cháshnegvír to the castle of Osmánjík, and to Hájí Hamza near Túsia, it derives -the name red river from its reddish colour. Higher up the river in the mountains -are found cornelians large enough for handles of knives and daggers; no village -in the neighbourhood is cultivated through fear of the Cossacks; forty miles -further on we came to Báfra, the seat of a Súbashí subordinate to the sanjak -of Jáník. The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers a day; -there is a separate Serdár (officer of the janissaries). The distance from Samsún -is a day’s journey. Báfra lies south-west of Samsún and at two farsangs distance -from the Black sea. The Kizíl-Irmák, which comes from the district of Gunánabád -flows on the west side of Báfra, and near this place it is crossed by a bridge -of fir-trees, which forms a wooden arch from one side of the shore to the other; -it is well worth seeing. There are two mosques and two baths at Báfra, and the -houses are all built of fir.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Samsún.</i></h3> - -<p>It was first taken from the Greeks, who built it, by Ala-ud-dín a prince of the -Seljúk family, and afterwards by Sultán Ilderím; it is the seat of a voivode subordinate -to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge’s provision is fixed at one hundred -and fifty aspers. Order is kept by a commanding officer of the janissaries -(Serdár Kiayayerí), and the commander of the castle, Dizdár, but there is neither -Muftí nor Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The inhabitants are all packers and boatmen, no -great rich men (Awán) but a number of Ulemás. Every body dresses according -to his means. The distance between Sinope and Samsún is by sea one hundred -and fifty miles, and five days journey by land. Sinope lies to the south of -Samsún, which is a strong fortress on the seashore. In the time of Mohammed -III. the conqueror of Erla, the Cossacks took this castle and destroyed the -fortifications in some places, which, after they were driven away, were repaired, -and the garrison strengthened, with great store of ammunition; it is now five -thousand paces in circumference, has seventy towers, two thousand battlements -and four gates. The river of Chárshenbe-Bazárí, which passes before Amasia, -disembogues in the Black Sea on the east side of Samsún. It is a large river, -not fordable, rises in the sanjak of Bolí, goes to Tokát, and then passes before -Amasia; hence originates the proverb coarsely applied by the inhabitants of -Tokát to those of Amasia; “you drink what we have defiled.” The water -of Samsún is called bad, it is however clear and transparent. The houses are -faced with brick and surrounded with gardens, it has a mosque and kháns, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> -no college or reading establishment, seven abecedarian schools, a bath, and a -market, but no port. It is an open place but the anchoring ground good. The -grapes and pears of Samsún are pickled (túrshí) and sent in casks to Constantinople; -its cables, ropes and resin are famous. The town is situated on the -edge of a gulf. We visited all that was to be seen at this place and then re-embarked -with our companions.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Onia.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by one of the Emperors of Trebisonde, was first conquered by -Keikúbád of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Orkhán. It is the seat of a -Voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge is appointed with one -hundred and fifty aspers: a Serdár and Dizdár are in possession of the military -power, but there is no Muftí nor Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The castle is a square stone -building on the seashore; the houses well inhabited, the mosques light, and the -markets populous. Having seen all this we re-embarked, and proceeding a few -miles with a favourable wind, came to Fátsha on the seashore, consisting of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a khán and a bath. It is a ziámet belonging to -Janík; the inhabitants are for the most part Greeks. The cape of Stephan is a -sharp point advancing ten miles into the sea. The mountains are interspersed -with well cultivated Greek villages. We passed it and came more northward -to the castle of Wúna, built by the Genoese, and conquered by Úzún Hassan -the lord of Azerbeiján, who took this castle together with those of Gumish -Khání, Baiburd and Jánkha, at a later period it was taken by Mohammed II. It -is the seat of a Súbashí from the sanjak of Janík. The castle is of a round -shape, and stands on a hill by the seashore, but it is not strongly garrisoned; -the gate looks to the east. It is ruled by a Serdár, and a judge with an income -of one hundred and fifty aspers. It has mosques, kháns and baths. The -inhabitants are known by the name of Wúna Greeks and Turks. It is a good -port, where the largest ships can anchor at any time. We went from hence, -straight before the wind, one hundred miles to the castle of Gíressin built by -Constantine the founder of Constantinople. It fell into the hands of Úzún -Hassan, was afterwards taken by the Genoese, and lastly by Mohammed II., who -ordered his general Mahmúd Pashá to enter the castle in the night, the name -of the castle is said to have originated from this order, “giressin” (thou shalt -enter). It is on the frontier of the Pashalik of Trebisonde, to the Khass of which -it belongs; its public officers are, a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, a -Serdár of the janissaries, a Dizdár of the castle, an inspector of the custom-house, -a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-ishráf. It is situated on the seashore between<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -Janík and Trebisonde, to the east of the latter. By the appearance of the ruins, -it was a large town when in the possession of the Genoese, but it is now only a -small one, with mosques and kháns, a bath and a market; the gardens yield fruit -plentifully. Though the anchorage is excellent, yet the harbour affords no shelter -against contrary winds. On the west side of it is a small island, where the -Cossacks concealed themselves when they burnt and plundered this town, which -is not defended by the Castle. As it belongs to the government of Trebisonde, -some hundred men of Omer-Páshá’s suite took horse here and continued their -journey to Trebisonde by land. We then steered our boat to the north, and -arrived at the castle of Purpolúm, which is a small square castle, situated on a -hill by the sea-shore, with a commander (Dizdár) and a garrison; the inhabitants -are Greeks. We weathered the Cape of Zemreh, where villages are to be seen -in the mountains. The castle of Kúrelí is a district belonging to Trebisonde. -The castle is situated on a hill by the seashore. Further on we came to the -station of Popolí on a great gulf, where traces of ruined castles are to be seen in -many places. Further to the north is the castle of Kelpe, a district belonging -to Trebisonde. The castle stands on a high hill by the seashore, and was built -by the Genoese. The castle of Bozúr-búrní is a small square castle on a rocky -cape, called the point of Bozúr, which was the name of a monk who built it. -The castle of Akche-abád, a large district belonging to Trebisonde. The castle -is a strong pentagon on the seashore, also built by the Greeks. Pulta Bazárí is -the seat of a Súbashí and Naíb subordinate to Trebisonde. A fair is held here -every week which is visited by many thousand inhabitants from the neighbouring -villages; it belongs as Wakf to the foundations of Khatúnieh the mother of -Selim I., the Súbashí is at the same time the Mutevellí or administrator of the -Wakf. The port is one of the most celebrated in the Black sea on account of its -safety. The torrent of Kalatímána, which rises in the mountains of Trebisonde, -enters the Black sea near the harbour of Púlta. The valley of Seredere is -enlivened by cultivated villages, whose inhabitants go in boats to the market of -Trebisonde, to the south of which these places are situated.</p> - - -<h3 class="hang"><i>Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the Capital of the -Lezgians; God guard it from all mischief!</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by the Greeks and was conquered by Úzún Hassan, the Prince of -Azerbeiján, but retaken by the Greek Emperors at the time of Timúr’s invasion, -until, in the year 878 (1473), it fell into the power of Mohammed II. He brought -forward an immense army by way of Jánkha, and gave battle to Úzún Hassan -in the field of Terjián, where forty thousand of Úzún Hassan’s men were slain,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -and he himself fled to the Castle of Azerbeiján. Since the victory at Kossova of -Sultán Murád I. no greater victory had been gained. Mohammed II. conquered -the town of Trebisonde thirteen years before; its name was spelt Tarbefzún (joy -increasing). Mohámmed II. fixed his residence here, coined money, had public -prayer performed in his name, and remained here three years. He subjected the -northern provinces of Georgia, Mingrelia, and Abaza, established his son Báyazíd -here as commander, and went himself to his third residence, Constantinople. -Báyazíd II. having ascended the throne in his father’s place, gave the government -of Trebisonde to his son Selím I. who twice passed over to the Crimea, and -heading the Tátárs led them against his father. Being defeated in battle, once at -Varna, and once at Adrianople, he left his son Súleimán his Lieutenant at Trebisonde, -and retired in disguise into Persia, where he played at chess with Sháh -Ismaíl, then travelled over Baghdád, Meshhed, Mecca and Medina to Egypt, conversed -there with Ebú Sa’úd Járehí, and Mezrúk Kafákí, who said “O Selím go -into Rúm and Persia, and then come to Egypt.” After three years travel he returned -to Trebisonde, from whence, keeping up secret intelligence with the janissaries -and with Menglí Geraí Khán, he led a Tátár army against his father, whom he -vanquished at Chorlí, and banished to Dimitoka, where he died at the village of -Hawsa. Sultán Selím remained absolute monarch, and immortalised himself by -the victories of Chaldir and Egypt.</p> - -<p>Súleimán was brought up at Trebisonde, which has been the seat of four -Ottoman Emperors. In remembrance of his youth spent here, he sent his mother -to this place and raised it to a separate province, with the addition of the sanjak -of Batúm. It is a Beglerbeglik of two tails, but was given more than once to -Vezírs of three tails as arpalik, in the reign of Murád IV. and Ibrahím. The -Khass of the Páshá consists according to the Kanún (law) of forty thousand -aspers. Two Súbashí are attached to this place, and the Páshá may get, in a -fair way, every year, nineteen thousand piastres, but if he is severe, even thirty -thousand piastres. There are five sanjaks, viz. Jánkha, Batúm, Zír, Gonia, and -Trebisonde, which is the chief place. The feudal officers are a Defterdár of the -Timárs, a Kiayá of the Defter, an Inspector of the rolls (Defter-emíní), and a -Kiayá of the Chaúshes; an inspector of the Chaúshes is also appointed here. -There are forty-three ziámets, two hundred and twenty-six timárs in the sanjak -of Trebisonde, and thirteen ziámets with seventy-two timárs in the sanjak -of Batúm, altogether one thousand eight hundred well-armed men, besides a -thousand Jebelis of the Páshá, so that the whole including the officers amounts -to three thousand men. They hold villages and land on condition that they -should go to war under the command of the Páshá, which if they do not they -forfeit their leases.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Begs of Abaza Tribes.</i></h3> - -<p>The tribe of Jájlar, of Erlán, of Chándalar, of great Chándalar, of Kechilar, of -A’rtlar, of Kámishlar, of Sújelar, of Bozúrúk, of Kúnassí, of Ashuflí, of Yokarúlí, -of Jembeh, and of Súntija. There are seventy Abaza tribes, who have made -obeisance since the time of Sultán Súleimán, and who every year in token thereof, -send in a tribute consisting of boys and girls, camphor, candles, pelisses, and a -thousand pieces of coarse linen for towels for the Imperial kitchen, to the Páshá -of Trebisonde, who then renews the treaty of protection with them. Envoys -come every year from Mingrelia with this tribute to Trebisonde, according to the -constitution of Sultán Súleimán. The Judge, a Mollá with five hundred aspers, -extends his jurisdiction to forty-one districts, and makes annually a revenue of -eight thousand piastres.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde.</i></h3> - -<p>These are the Páshá, Muftí, Nakíb, and instead of the Serdár of the janissaries -a Chaúsh of high authority, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a Súbashí, an Ayák Náíb, -a Mohtessib, an inspector of the Custom-house and of the fish-market, a Sháh -Bender or chief of the merchants, an inspector of the dyers, of the wine, and -wax, in short seventeen public magistrates appointed by an Imperial rescript. -The inhabitants also possess an Imperial privilege which allows them to kill the -Jews who enter the town, the reason of their being thus empowered shall, if it -pleases God! be detailed in another place. The town is situate on the eastern -side of the Black sea and is surrounded by delightful gardens. The distance from -Constantinople is exactly a thousand miles. The mountains of the Lezgís are -towards the south and the east; the name Lezgí has been corrupted into Laz. -Mohammed II. having conquered this town, colonized it from all quarters and -rendered it a populous place; the inhabitants are Lezgís and Janissaries, who -inherit this right from father to son. Their names are, Alí, Welí, Khodaverdí, -Ja’fer, Peshír, Feslí, Memí, Meizer, Fakhzád, and Memet, with the word báshá -added to the end, which is pronounced here páshá. The surnames are, son -of Fertúl, Fodúl, Fazár, Kashúmbúr, Katráz, Kalafát, Kosdúd, Júndah, Alialí, -Súrmenelí, Pípolí, Kashíd-bárí, Siámí, Jorkájí, Khángí-chíchú, Kotúzmeslí, A’álí, -Gúnelí; the names of the women, Omkhán, Esma Khán, Rábieh, Assieh, Hánifeh, -Afífa, Saikha, Fátima, Khúftí, Túntí, Gulshákhí, Mihrmáh, Khiva, Khúma, Zákhila, -and Ánifah; the names of the slaves, Ússuf, Paiván, Kananan, Allah-kúlí, Rostem, -Apártí, &c. These names were originally pure Arabic names, but are spelt in -such a way by the Lezgians, that they appear quite strange. Many of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -inhabitants of the order of the Dervíshes Gulshení wear necklaces of coral, jasper -and turquoise. Both Prose and Poetry are cultivated to a high degree, and there -are in our age no less than eleven poets, every one of whom is the author of a -Diván or alphabetical collection of Ghazels (Odes).</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde.</i></h3> - -<p>Ghanayí Efendí was Secretary to Tayem-Páshá, and afterwards to Melek Ahmed -Páshá. He knew the dictionaries of Kamús and Shemií by heart, as well as the -discourses of Urfí and Túzúlí. Ghanayí went with Melek Ahmed Páshá to his -government of Rúmelí, and is buried at Sofía in the mosque of Dervish Mohammed -Páshá 1021 (1612). Alí-jání succeeded to his father’s office. He left three -volumes in verse and prose, in comparison with which Weissi himself is but a -stammering child.</p> - - -<h3><i>Form and Size of the Town, and Description of its Monuments.</i></h3> - -<p>It consists of two great castles between the edge of Mount Bozdepeh and the -shore of the Black sea, and is divided into three parts; the first is the lower -castle, the second the middle castle, and the innermost or tower castle, it is -extremely strong being protected by mount Bozdepeh. The ditch is very deep, -and seventy paces broad, all cut in lime-stone; inside this castle is a mosque, -barracks for the garrison, magazines and storehouses. On the north side a -gate leads to the middle castle, which is the only open gate; a second secret gate -(Oghrún Kapú) is always kept closed. The middle castle is an oblong square -enclosed by walls. The gate on the east side which leads from the tower or -innermost castle is called the New Friday’s gate, the second gate is also at the -end of the same wall. The tanneries are outside of it, and it is therefore called -the tanner’s gate. In front of it flows a rivulet which rises in the mountains -of Bozdepeh and the Lezgían mountains on the east, and passes through the -tanneries into the sea; it sometimes swells into a furious torrent. In the centre -of the tanner’s market is a large bridge built of stone by Úzún Hassan the lord of -the castle, it lies to the east of Erzerúm. The third gate of the middle castle is -on the western wall and is called the prison gate, where the malefactors and -debtors are confined. From this gate you pass over a stone bridge to the gate -Za’anús. The fourth gate is on the northern side of the wall, and leads to the -lower castle, or third division of the town, and is therefore called the lower -castle gate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Lower Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>The north wall abuts on the sea, the castle is of a square form, nineteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> -thousand paces in circumference. It has also four gates, viz.—the gate of Za’anús -next the prison gate close to the walls, leading to a long bridge; the gate of -Sútkháneh leading to the quarters of the Christians; the gate of Mevlúz which -signifies in Greek (?) a small stone, from the abundance of pebbles that lie on the -shore. In the language of the Lazes, Mevlúz is the name of spurs or piers which -are raised to support ruined walls. The walls of the lower castle extend on both -sides to the sea, so that the town is closed against hostile invasion, by a wall -running along the seashore. The fourth gate is that of Múm Kháneh or the -wax fabric, because all the candles, of which a great number are made at -Trebisonde are manufactured outside of this gate. Three quarters of the town -are inhabited by Moslims and Christians, but by no Jews. The houses rising one -above the other are all faced with brick and look to the north or west.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Mosques.</i></h3> - -<p>In the centre of the castle was an old Christian church, Mohammed II. having -conquered the town in the year 865, turned the mihráb from the east towards -the Kiblah. Its mihráb and minber are of ancient workmanship, and on the east -side is an oratory (mahfil) of most elegant carving. The wood is cypress, nut, -and box; it is always closed, and reserved entirely for the Emperor’s use. There -are besides three other mahfils or oratories supported by pillars in this mosque, -where people are also allowed to pray when there is a great crowd. It has two gates, -an elegant mináreh, and cells for students in the courtyard outside; it is covered -with lead. In the west suburb are also four mosques, and two in the eastern; -the mosque of the tower castle is a beautiful structure with a mináreh much -ornamented. The mosque of Khatúnieh was built by the mother of Selím I. who -was born here, it is extremely well endowed, the market called Púlta-bazárí -belongs to its foundation, with many cultivated villages. The cupola is illuminated -by candles every night, its elegant mináreh pierces the sky. The gate and walls -of this mosque are built of black polished stone, and white marble, in alternate -rows; it was built in the year 920. The mosque of Súleimán Beg on the west -of the mosque of Khatúnieh, but at a mile distance from it on the place of Kawák, -has one mináreh covered with lead.</p> - -<p>The mosque of Ayá Sofiyáh is on the seashore on the west side, it was built -in the time of the Infidels. Kúrd Alí-beg took it out of the hands of the -Christians, in the year 951 (1573), and adorned it with a fine minber and mahfil; -it is beautified with many marble and granite columns, which cannot be described -with sufficient praise. The mihráb and minber are in the ancient style, and it is -surrounded by vineyards and plantations of olives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span></p> - -<p>The mosque of Wárdogdi-Beg stands half a mile distance south of the mosque -of Khatúnieh in the quarter of Tekfúr-seraï, it was raised from a mesjíd into a -mosque by Torghúd-beg in 985 (1577). It has a well proportioned gate and -mináreh. The new mosque was formerly a church, and stands in a lofty -situation. The mosque of Iskender Páshá, known by the name of Káfir-Meidání, -(the Infidel’s place) has its cupola entirely covered with lead, with a well -proportioned mináreh.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c.</i></h3> - -<p>Outside of the courtyard of the mosque of the middle castle is the college of -Mohammed II. with a great number of cells and students. There is a general -lecture (Dersí-a’ám), the lecturer holds the degree of a Molla; it is a mine of poets, -and meeting-place of wits. The college of Katúnieh is adorned with cells on four -sides; the students receive fixed quantities of meat and wax for their subsistence. -The college of Iskender Páshá on the north side of the mosque, that bears the -same name, is richly endowed with stipends for the students. The reading-houses -of Trebisonde are those of the middle castle, at the mosque of Mohammed II., -where reading after the manner of Ibn Kether is introduced; that of Khatúnieh, -where works on the Korán are read after the seven established methods of Jeserí -and Shátebieh; and that of Iskender Páshá close to its mosque. The abecedarian -schools for boys are that of Mohammed II. in the middle castle; the school of the -new mosque, a school so blessed, that a boy who has been taught here to read the -Bismillah (in God’s name!) cannot fail to be a learned man; the elegant school of -Khatúnieh on the west side of the mosque is built of stone, with a cupola, where -orphans are supplied with mental and bodily food, with dresses on great festivals -and presents besides; and the schools of Iskender Páshá; these are the most -celebrated.</p> - -<p>There is a pleasant double bath for the use of both sexes, in the middle castle -near the gate which leads to the lower castle.</p> - -<p>The bath of the tower is on the north wall of the innermost or tower castle; it -is a single one, and is said to have existed in the time of the Infidels. The bath of -the Imáret, built by Khatúnieh mother of Selím I. The bath of the lower castle is -a single one, that of Iskender Páshá is double; the bath of the Infidels is between -the New Friday quarter and the Infidels’ place, and the bath of Tekfúr-seraï. -There are besides at Trebisonde two hundred and forty-five private baths, and a -great number of Kháns. The Khán of Khátúnieh has a stable equal to that of -Antar, which will accommodate one hundred horses; besides many other Kháns -for merchants and single persons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p> - -<p>Of the Market-places, the first is outside of the gate of the wax-manufactory. -There is a well-built Bezestán where the Arabian and Persian merchants reside, -who are extremely rich and wealthy. In the middle castle the market called the -small market, is furnished with every thing; its shops amount to the number of -eighty.</p> - -<p>The Imárets are those of Mohammed II. in the middle castle, accommodating -both rich and poor. The Imáret of Khátúnieh, close to the mosque, is not to be -equalled, even at Trebisonde; passengers and boatmen may dine here at their -pleasure; there is an oven for baking white bread, and a cellar (kílár) for keeping -the provisions of the Imáret. Near the kitchen is the eating-place for the poor, -and the students have a proper dining-hall. Every day, in the morning, and at -noon a dish of soup and a piece of bread is provided for each, and every Friday a -Zerde Pilaw, and Yakhní (stewed meat); these regulations are to remain in force, -as long as it pleases God.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde.</i></h3> - -<p>The climate and the air being extremely favourable, the inhabitants are all jolly -merry fellows, who think of nothing but eating and drinking, of amusement and -pleasure. Being all idle amorous fellows, their colour is red, and the women are -fair, coming from Abaza, Georgia and Circassia; every one a moon or a portion of -the sun.</p> - - -<h3><i>Occupations, Guilds, &c.</i></h3> - -<p>The inhabitants are divided from the earliest period into seven classes. The first -are the great and mighty Princes and sons of Princes (Beg and Beg-zadeh), who -are dressed in magnificent pelisses of sables. The second are the Ulemás, the -sheikhs and pious men, who dress according to their condition and live on endowments. -The third are the merchants, who trade by sea and land to Ozakov, into -the country of the Cossacks, into Mingrelia, Circassia, Abaza and the Crimea; -they dress in ferrájís of cloth and dolimáns called kontosh. The fourth are the -handicraftsmen, who dress themselves in ferrájís of cloth and bogássín. The -fifth are the boatmen of the Black Sea; they have their peculiar dress, with iron -buckles, shalwárs, dolímáns of cloth, and a kind of lining (astár) wrapped round -the head, ready, thus accoutred, to trade or to fight at sea. The sixth class are -the men of the vineyards, because the mountains of Bozdepeh are all planted with -vines, and in the register are set down no less than thirty-one thousand gardens -and vineyards, so that if only one man is reckoned to each garden, there are -thirty-one thousand gardeners, but in some there are two and three. The seventh -class are the fishermen, a calling in which many thousand men are employed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts.</i></h3> - -<p>The goldsmiths of Trebisonde are the first in the world. Selím I. being brought -up in this town was taught the art of a goldsmith, and cut dies for the coin of his -father Báyazíd, so skilfully, that they appeared as if engraved in marble; I -saw some of this coin at Trebisonde. Súleimán (the great) himself was the -apprentice of a Greek called Constantine, who was the foster brother of Yahya -Efendí, who is buried at Beshik-tásh. From this time the goldsmiths of Trebisonde -became the most famous in the world, and work vases for rose-water and -incense, swords, daggers and knife-handles in most wonderful perfection. The -knives of Ghorghúr-oghlí are the most famous of all; the hatchets of Trebisonde -are a new and clever invention. The inlaid work of pearl-shells, with which -tables, pulpits, inkstands, sand-boxes and chairs are ornamented in such perfection, -that they cannot be equalled in any country, except it be by the pearl-shell work -of India.</p> - - -<h3><i>Eatables and Beverages.</i></h3> - -<p>The water of Trebisonde is fresh as the spring of life; the must of the raisins -of Bozdepeh is sweet, and gives no headache to those who drink it; the sherbets -called the triple, the muscat, and the clove wine are the best. The gardens -produce most exquisite fruit; fine flavoured grapes, cherries red as woman’s lips, -pears of different kinds, apples called Sinope, figs called Bádinjíán-Injúr, which -are not found so sweet any where else, different kinds of lemons, oranges of a deep -purple colour, pomegranates and olives, of which alone there are seven sorts to be -found nowhere else except at Damascus and Jerusalem. One of the small sorts -is eaten before it is quite ripe and resembles a black cherry; this is also an -exclusive production of Trebisonde. Another fruit, which is called the date of -Trebisonde is roasted on stoves, and is exported to many places; it is a sweet -fruit, and has two or three kernels. The ruby-coloured pink which grows here, is -peculiar to this place, each blossom is like a red rose, and perfumes the brain -with the sweetest scent, and weighs, without the stalk, from five to six drachms.</p> - -<p>The fish which are worthy of mention are Lorek-bálighí, Kefál-bálighí (Cephalus), -the Kalkán-balighí (Rhombus), which if eaten by women renders them prolific; -the fish called Kiziljeh-tekerbálik, with a red head and delicious to taste; -the gold fish, the Sgombro which is taken in the season Erbain (forty days). -But the most precious of all, which frequently causes bloody strifes and quarrels -in the Market-place, is the Khamsí-bálighí taken in the season of Khamsan, (the -fifty days when southerly winds blow); these fish were formerly thrown on the -shore at Trebisonde by virtue of a talisman erected, as is said, by Alexander,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -before the gate of the town, representing a fish of this kind in brass on a column -of stone; but on the birth-night of the prophet, when all talismans lost their power, -the same happened to this at Trebisonde; thus the fish are no longer thrown on -the shore, but the sea abounds with them during the said fifty days. At this season -boats loaded with these fish arrive in the harbour, and the dealers in fish cry them -in a peculiar manner, at the same time sounding a kind of horn or trumpet; as -soon as this sound is heard, the whole town is in an uproar, and people who hear it, -even when at prayer, instantly cease, and run like madmen after it. It is a shining -white fish of a span’s length, and is an aphrodisiac of extraordinary potency; -strengthening and easy of digestion, does not smell like fish, creates no fever -in those who eat it, and also cures sore mouths. If the head of this fish, -Khamsí-bálighí, pronounced Khápsi-bálighí, is burnt, serpents and other venomous -reptiles are killed by the smoke. The people use it during forty days in all their -dishes, to which it gives a peculiar flavour, it is thus used with yakhní, roasts, -pies, and baklava (mixed pies), a dish called pílegí is made of it in the -following manner, the fish is first cleaned, then cut into slices on which is laid -parsley and celery, then another layer of fish, the best oil is then poured on it, -and it is cooked over the fire for one hour, it thus becomes quite a luminous dish, -which may be said to illuminate those who eat it. But however this fish may -be dressed and eaten, it is extremely useful to the stomach and the eyes, and is -a dish of friendship and love. God the Almighty has blessed this town with -all kinds of rare trees, including box, cypress, and Turkish nut. It is wonderful -that in the mountains of Erzerúm, situated a great deal further to the south, all is -winter and storm, while here are roses, syringas, lemons, oranges, and other sweet -fruits. The winter and the air is mild, and the nature of the people partakes of this -happy equality of the seasons; they are kind to strangers, but the Greeks and the -Lezgians, the Chichú and Chifta are extremely troublesome people; the language -of the Lezgís cannot be written or expressed in Turkish orthography; they have a -peculiar dialect, which even the inhabitants of Trebisonde do not understand -without an interpreter; they are for the most part boatmen, who navigate the -river Chorúgh to Mingrelia, carrying boxwood and slaves, with which they trade -to the harbour of Trebisonde, one of the best of anchoring grounds and ports; -it is open to the west, and looks towards the harbour of Kaffa in Crimea, three -hundred miles distance.</p> - - -<h3><i>Walks of Trebisonde.</i></h3> - -<p>On the place of Kawák outside of the gate of Za’anús, the Páshás play jeríd -with their troops on days of recreation. Three masts are erected in the centre, -one of them having a golden top which is shot at by arrows. There have been no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -Jews at Trebisonde since the time of Sultán Selím, who was governor of the town, -the following circumstance was the cause; a Dervish discovered on a piece -of leather (saffian), that was handed about for sale, an inscription, written in -a way not to be observed by every body, which implored the assistance of all -righteous Moslims, to deliver two innocent Moslim youths tyrannically shut up in -the Jewish tanneries. The Dervish having explained the inscription to Prince -Selím, a general search of all the Jewish tanneries took place by an armed -force, when not only the two brothers, lost many years before, but many other -Moslim boys were found, on whose backs the Jewish tanners had worked in -tanning their skins. This discovery occasioned a general slaughter and banishment -of the Jews, none of whom have since dared to show their faces at -Trebisonde, the inhabitants of which town are a religious and devout people.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the River Khosh-oghlán.</i></h3> - -<p>It rises in the province of Erzerúm, in the southern part of the District -Kerkdeh, from the mountain called Yailak-mesjidí, and after supplying water to -many gardens, passes on the right side of Trebisonde into the sea. On the -mountain whence it issues, stands a castle built by one Khosh-oglán of the -Chobanián family, but the mountain itself is called Agháj-bashtághí by the -inhabitants; it is passed on the way from this town to Baiburd by a gate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Visit to the Monuments of Sultáns and Saints.</i></h3> - -<p>The mother of Selím I. is buried before the gate of Za’anús beneath a high -cupola, ninety men are appointed there to be monument-keepers and readers -of the Koran, which is read through three times a day. She was a pious lady, a -second Rabia Adúyeh. The cupola is covered with lead as well as the mosque -near the monument. God’s mercy upon her! I remained three months at -Erzerúm making the acquaintance of all learned and distinguished men, and then -accompanied Hossein-aghá, the kiaya of Ketánjí Omer Páshá, who set out with -presents on an embassy to Mingrelia.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_GEORGIA_AND_MINGRELIA">JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA.</h2></div> - - -<p>We embarked in Lezgian boats with an escort of two hundred men, and, trusting -in the Lord, sailed from the harbour of Trebisonde to the north. The station -of Menzil Degermen Deressí is near Trebisonde, and is a large harbour. From -thence we sailed northward to Shána where there is a harbour called Rútha.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -The forests are principally hazel, the nuts of which are everywhere famous. At -the end of some miles from this place we arrived at the castle of Súrmena, built -by the infidel Greeks, and conquered by Mohammed II. from whom it was taken -by Hersek-oghlí; there is a Súbashí, a judge with an income of one hundred and -fifty aspers, a Dizdár and a garrison; it has an excellent harbour sheltered against the -wind from all quarters except the north-west, but when the wind blows from that -quarter three or four anchors are required to enable ships to ride in safety. The -district of Mahnúz consists of sixty villages belonging to Trebisonde, the whole -mountain is covered with box-trees, the wood of which is made into handles for -spoons. There is the large village Kalipravúlí, whose inhabitants are all Chíchú, -and the large place of Khobán on the seashore, surrounded with gardens; the inhabitants -of which are Lezgians. The strong town of Konia in the sanjak Batúm -belonging to Trebisonde has thirteen ziámets and seventy-two timárs, the militia -is ruled by a Cherí-bashí and Alaï-Beg, who in war time commands eight -hundred men, three hundred are the Páshá’s private troop; the garrison of the -fortresses on the frontier consist of a Dizdár and five hundred men. The judge -has a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers, but his revenues are <i lang="la">in partibus</i>, -because the inhabitants are all Chíchú Lezgís, who can only be controlled at -the point of the lance. The revenues of the judge may amount to one thousand, -those of the Beg to seven thousand piastres; the castle originally built by the -Infidels, stands on a high square hill, it was conquered by Mohammed II. and has -been many times plundered by the Cossacks. The houses are faced with brick, -as are also the mosque and kháns. It lies on the river Júrúgh, the spelling of -this word is corrupted from Júí-rúh, which rises in the mountains of Jánkha-Kawilí-hissár -and Shín-kara on the west side of Erzerúm, passes through Baiburd, -waters the country of the Lezgians, and enters the Black Sea near the castle -of Konia.</p> - -<p>It has neither ferry nor bridge, but is a river like a sea, covered with many -thousand Lezgian boats, trading on this river to Mingrelia with salt, iron, and -different sorts of linen, and bringing box, wax, honey, with slaves of both sexes, -from Mingrelia and Georgia to Trebisonde. From Konia we advanced to the -north, and only disembarked at the place Kemerler, then entered the river -Júrúgh, and sailed eastward for one day.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Mingrelia.</i></h3> - -<p>The sanjak of Konia ends at Khánedá the frontier of the tribe Ada Khosh -of Mingrelia. The mountains are covered with box, and the gardens are planted -with box-trees. We slept one night in the village of the Beg, who did every thing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> -to treat us kindly. We saw more than seventy Mingrelian villages, each one like -a town, and then returned to Konia; our companions went back to Trebisonde, -but I was commanded to go with the company of the Zenberekjí-báshí of Konia to -the siege of Assov.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_AZAK_ASSOV_1050">JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV) 1050.</h2></div> - - -<p>We embarked with three hundred fusileers of the janissaries, and five rowing -boys of my own, in ten Lezgian barks called Munkesileh. These boats are made -of the large plane-trees growing on the river Júrúgh, and consist of three planks, -two of which form the sides, and the third forms the bottom; the sides are lined -with reed twice as thick as a man’s wrist; this lining of reed keeps them afloat -in the storms of the Black Sea, and they swim like sponges; they have neither -stern nor forecastle, but are equal on both sides, and are called Munkesileh. On -these boats I left Konia with a good wind, passed the river Júrúgh and arrived -at the harbour Sofárí on the frontier of Mingrelia. The landing-place (iskele) -of Khandra has no port (limán). The landing-place Súri has an old ruined -port. The landing-place Yarissa is a ruined castle where goats are now kept. -The landing-place Raijeh is without a port, but has an old ruined castle. These -five landing-places are all on the frontiers of Mingrelia, they are only visited in -the summer time by the merchants who carry on the slave trade. The mountains -are inhabited by forty or fifty thousand warlike Mingrelians. We passed the -said five landing places, and came next day, at a hundred miles distance from -Konia, to the great river Fáshechai (Phasus). The Fásha (Phasus) is a great -river like the Danube, in some places a mile, in others but half a mile broad, and -from eight to ten fathoms deep, fresh as the spring of life; it disembogues in a -gulf at the north end of the Black Sea, one thousand three hundred miles from -Constantinople. It rises between Mingrelia, Georgia, Thágistán, Kabartaí, and -Circassia, from Mount Caucasus (Kúhal-burz), Ubúr, and Sadasha, and passes -between Mingrelia and Abáza into the Black Sea. On the east side are the -Mingrelian villages, on the west the Abáza; and both shores being covered with -thick forests, the two people mutually steal their children of both sexes and sell -them as slaves. We passed the Phasus, marching to the west, and for a whole -day went along the shore of the Black Sea.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Land of the Abáza.</i></h3> - -<p>It forms the northern shore of the Black Sea, begins at the mouth of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -Phasus, and ends at the castle of Anapa near the island of Tamán. The following -tradition is related of the origin of Abáza. According to the most authentic -historians Adam was created in Paradise in the true Tátár form, and having after -his exile met Eva on mount A’arafát, they begat forty thousand children all in -the form of Tátárs. Adam having spoken Arabic in Paradise, forgot it when -on earth, and began to speak Hebrew, Syrian, Dehkilí (?) and Persian, which -languages were spoken till the deluge, after which mankind divided into seventy-two -nations and as many languages. The first who invented new languages was Edrís -(Enoch) who first wrote and bound books, and hid them in the pyramids, whence -they were taken out after the deluge by the philosophers, who by this means multiplied -the languages to the number of one hundred and forty-seven. Ismail retrieved -the Arabic and Persian originally spoken in Paradise, and Esau brought -forward the Turkish as the language of Tátárs; the people belonging to them are:—the -Hind, Sind, Moghání, Kurds, Múltáns, Baniáns, and twelve nations of fire -worshippers, with as many languages; the Noghaí, Heshdek, Lipka, Chagataí, -Lezgí, Georgians, Mingrelians, Shúrshád, Dadián, Ajikbásh, Armenians, Greeks, -Turcomans, Copts, and Israelites or Jews. The Franks divided into Spaniards, -French, Genoese, Portuguese, Venetians, Tuscans, Servians, Bulgarians, Croats, -Italians, &c. Four children of Menúchehr, the old Persian king, having fled -towards Erla (Agra), and being asked who they were, answered, “we are four” -(Men chár is) which being corrupted remained the name of their descendants, -Majár. Of the Arabs forty tribes first settled in Egypt, such as the Mogrebí, -Fess, Merakesh, Afenú, Maibornú, Jíchel Khán, Aswán, Súdání, Fúnjí, Kara-mánkí, -Bogháskí, Múnjí, Berbers, Nubians, Zenjí, Habeshí, Gulapshí, Alewí, -Rompí, the Arabs of Yemen, Baghdád, Mekka, Medina, Badiah, and Ommán. -All the Arabic tribes amount to three thousand and sixty; some say more. The -principal, most noble and eloquent of them, is the tribe Koreish Hashemí of which -the Prophet was born, for whose sake God created time and space, and who is -entitled the Lord of Arabs and Persians.</p> - -<p>But to return after this digression to the origin of the Abáza; it is related by -authentic histories that in the year 25 of the Hejíra, in the Calífat of Omár, -there was an Arab called Basha Melek who then ruled Yathreb, Batha, Aden and -Saba, and had five sons; the first was called Jebel-ul-himmet; the second Arab; -the third Kisú who had three sons named Kais, Meválí, and Taí; the fourth -Lazkí; and the fifth Abází. After the father’s death, the principality of the tribe -devolved on the eldest son Jebel-ul-himmet, who, having by accident, knocked out -the eye of an Arab was sentenced by Omar to lose one of his own. Jebel-ul-himmet -on the same night took with him his four brethren, and sought refuge at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -Antiochia, with the Emperor Heraclius, who gave him the mountains of Syrian -Tripolis. He there built the town of Jebellieh which still bears that name. -Having undertaken some predatory excursions from thence towards Damascus -and Medina, Kháled Ben Welíd and Eswed Ben Mokdád overpowering him with -their forces, obliged him to fly. He embarked and went to Albania, where he -took up his residence in the mountains of Avlonia, the inhabitants of which are -now called the Koreishite Albanians: their songs have Arabic tunes, and they -derive their origin from Jebel-ul-himmet, who is buried near Ilbessán. His -descendants became apostates, and dwell in the mountains of Dúkat (Ducato) -between Avlonia and Delonia. They are of a tawny colour like the Arabs, and -hairy. So far of Jebel-ul-himmet. His brother Arab, and his three nephews -Kais, Taí, and Meválí were carried by Kháled Ben Welid prisoners to Hedjáz, -where Kais and Taí became masters of the tribes that bear their names. Arab -their uncle became master of Ommán, their father Kisú and his two brethren -Lazkí and Abází fled from Kháled Ben Welid, first came to Konia and then -to Constantinople, where having heard, that Moavia the son of Ebí Sofián was -approaching Constantinople, he sought shelter at Trebisonde. Here the banks of -the river Júrúgh within the castle of Konia was assigned to the Lazkis (Lezgís) -who are also of Arabic descent. To the brother Kisú was assigned the Circassian -mountains, who, therefore, as well as the Lezgís boast of being Koreishites. -Abazí got the country which actually bears his name, and thus the Circassians, -Lezgís, Abáza, Albanians, the Arabic tribes of Taí, and Kais are all branches -of the Koreish family. So God populated the earth, God does what he likes, -and commands what he pleases! The principal tribe in Abáza are the Chách, -who speak Mingrelian, which is spoken on the opposite shore of the Phasus; they -are warlike men, in number about ten thousand, who follow more than one -religion, and are an unruly set of people. Their mountains are very fruitful, -particularly in nuts, hazel-nuts, and apricots; they bear the same arms as the -Arabs, arrows, bows and lances, have few horsemen, but valorous footmen. -Their harbour Lákia lies two journies to the west, three hundred miles from -Trebisonde, but, on account of the heavy southerly and easterly gales, no ship -can pass the winter there. Further to the west on the seashore is the village -Khafál the frontier of the tribe Arlán, consisting of ten thousand warlike men; -their harbour is called Láchigha; we remained here a night; it is a pleasant -harbour both in winter and summer. We travelled two journies further to the -west to the frontier of the tribe Chánda, fifteen hundred valiant men, true Abázas, -they are called the mountain Chándas, and their harbour Kakúr. The village -Kháke, near it, surrounded with gardens, faces the sea. Three journies beyond, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -the seashore, are the great Chándas, twenty-five villages, fifteen thousand men; -their harbour is called Chándalar, but it gives no shelter in winter. Behind these -mountains is the land of the Mamshúkh Circassians. From the Chándas we -marched a day’s journey towards the west, by the seacoast, and came to the -tribe Kechilar; their country is like a paradise; it consists of seventy-five -villages which furnish two thousand marksmen; its waters are pleasant. The great -river Pessú flows from the Caucasus, and goes into the Black Sea; it is a fresh -stream, which affords no ferry in summer, but is a safe shelter for ships in winter. -Both shores are laid out in gardens by the people of Kechilar, who may bring ten -thousand men into the field, the greater part horsemen. They are a very rich -and rapacious people. We remained guests in the village Háka in the house of an -Abáza, called Zeperaha, the janissaries our companions made an entertainment of ten -sheep, on which we feasted, and then proceeded two journies westward to the tribe -of Árt, who are more numerous than the Kechilar, but they are neither so brave -nor so rapacious, most of them are merchants trading in fur. They feed a great -number of swine. They know neither religious book nor sect, but keep their word; -their number amounts to thirty thousand. Their Beg accompanied by from forty to -fifty armed Abáza brought us twenty sheep and three roes, as a present to welcome -us; he wore a coat called Kilchaklí-gebe-chekmání, carried a bow and arrows in -his hand, and wore a sword; he was a stout young fellow. All his servants wore -long hair like himself. The landing-place of this tribe is called Ártlar; we -passed a night there as guests; it is an open place, ships therefore cannot lie -there in the winter. Another landing-place is called Liúsh, where ships lie for six -months.</p> - -<p>To the north, in the midst of mountains, is Sadsha, the land belonging to -Sídí Ahmed Páshá; the inhabitants speak well the language of both the Abáza -and the Circassians; to the latter their country adjoins, they are seven thousand -brave stout men. The Abáza and Circassians are continually on their guard, but -keep up good intelligence by trading together to the landing-place at Árt with -slaves and wax. The Circassians (Takakú) also come in ships, and trade in safety. -We went three stations further to the west, along the sea-coast, through a woody -tract, with high mountains, between which are many cultivated villages, to the -tribe of Kámish, ten thousand brave men; they defeated the tribe of A’rt many -times, and took their Begs prisoners, because these Abázas steal each other’s -children, and a man who does not steal and plunder is thought to be bad -company, so that they give him not their daughters in marriage. In these -mountains of Kámish swine are fed to the size of asses; the landing-place is not -much frequented on account of the riotous character of the people. Among these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -people of Kámish the children of the Abáza are sent from Constantinople and -Cairo; they have a Mesjíd, the air is pleasant, the villages all face the Kiblah and -the south. The market is held at the landing-place. Three stations further to -the west we came to the tribe of Sújalar, ten thousand brave men; the ground -being very rocky there are few houses. There is a landing place, but I do not -know its name. We remained as guests one night in the village of Hádeka. As -there happened to be a wedding, they feasted us with a great many dishes, fine -girls and boys waited on us, and the next day the Aghá of Konia, our companion, -gave to the master of the house a turban, which was valued as much as though it -had been a crown, because having neither market, nor khán, nor bath, nor church, -they know nothing of cultivated manners. Their villages of from forty to fifty -houses are situated in the mountains. Ships of all countries bring powder, lead, -muskets, arrows, bows, swords, shields, lances and other weapons, old shoes, -borders of cloth, linen, bogassin, kettles, hooks, salt, soap and similar articles, and -take in exchange, without using money, slaves, butter, wax and honey. From the -Súchas we went further on two stations to the west, along the seashore, to the -tribe of Dembe, who furnish two thousand armed men. We remained three days -at their landing-place and exchanged our old cloth for slave girls and boys. I -myself bought an Abáza boy. The fourth day we marched two journies to the -west to the tribe of Bozdúk, the Beg of which commands seven thousand men. -We found at their landing-place ten ships from Constantinople and many of our -friends, the meeting with whom was a great treat to us. Mengelí-geraí Khán -led three thousand men of the Bozdúk to the war of Astrachan, which being -ended he gave them a Yúrd (Camp) in the Circassian mountains of Obúr where -they remained. They are a brave people speaking the Abáza and Circassian -language. The Bozdúk of Abáza and Circassia are separated by Mount Obúr; -the distance between them is three stations. They mutually steal each others -children and sell them. Two journies further along the seacoast is the old -ruined castle of Osowísh, where we passed a night as guests. The inhabitants -make bows and arrows; the Beg has three thousand men in his service, who -carry muskets; the landing-place of the castle is called Gírmen Sowísh. Bears, -swine, foxes, jackals, and woodcocks are found in great numbers in the mountains. -These Abáza people have a strange mode of burying their Begs; they -put the body into a wooden coffin, which they nail on to the branches of some -high tree and make a hole in the coffin near the head, that the Beg, as they -say, may look up to Heaven: bees enter the coffin and make honey, entirely -wrapping the body up in it; when the season comes they open the coffin, take -the honey and sell it, much caution, therefore, is required to be used in pur<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>chasing -the honey of the Abázas. We here bought some more slave boys, and -went two journies towards the west to the tribe of Ashagalí, whose Begs can -bring two thousand brave men into the field, but they are all thieves, and dreaded -by the Abázas themselves. There is also a ruined castle here, the landing-place -of which is called Ashagalí, much frequented by the ships of Kaffa and Tamán, -but they cannot remain here in the winter. One journey further to the west, is -the village of A’atima belonging to the Ashaghlís; there are amongst them many -Mussulmáns of the Abáza of Top-khánah. From hence Circassia is distant but a -day’s journey. Two journies further is the tribe of Súksú, their Begs command -three thousand armed men; they have horses of high breeding. The landing-place -is Hárdena. The river called Súk has no ferry, it issues from the mountains -of Circassia and flows into the Black Sea; there are some wealthy persons amongst -them. Two journies further on is the tribe of Kútassí, whose Begs command seven -thousand armed men. They have magazines covered with mats. In the port a -great number of ships from Kaffa and Tamán are found. We met some acquaintances -here from the Crimea, the horsemen of which country are in continual intercourse -with Circassia. On account of the facility of communication the people are -wealthy; they also sow corn, the rest of the Abáza sow millet, which multiplies a -hundred fold. The houses of the Kútassí are covered with reed; a cluster of ten -houses is called a Kabák, the four sides are circumvallated like a castle, and their -dogs watch like lions around it, they are obliged to do so, as all their dwellings are -in the woods, and each village is afraid of the other. The Kútassí are bounded -by the Shána Circassians; they are only separated by a mountain, which is a day’s -journey across; they speak the Circassian language. Thus the country of the -Abázas extends from the Phasus along the seacoast forty days journey in length, -and in breadth from five days journey down to one, as is the case in the distance -between the Kútassí Abáza and the Shána Circassians. These forty days journey -are marked by forty large rivers, which issue from the mountains situated between -the Abáza and Circassians, and run into the Black Sea. Altogether seventy high -mountains, with two thousand villages, of which I know nothing, as I did not visit -them. Within this country are some hundred thousand men, without law or -religion, who, however, if you call them infidels will kill you, and if you call them -Moslims are delighted, but if they become real Moslims, they are very good ones. -They are a wild roving people descending from the Arabs, Koreishites, from -Abáza.</p> - -<p>The tribes of Abáza in the mountains are the Posúkhí, seven thousand turbulent -men; Akhchissí, ten thousand men; Besleb, seven thousand five hundred brave -people; Mukellebeh, thirty thousand men; Waipígha, one thousand men; Jágh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>ras, -eight hundred weak men; Ala Koreish, five hundred men; Chíchakores, -three thousand men; Mácha, two thousand men; and Páncháresh, four thousand -men; these ten turbulent tribes never mix with the Abázas of the coast. The -bravest and best of them are the Sadasha. On the coast and in the mountains -there are altogether twenty-five tribes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Specimen of the Abáza Language.</i></h3> - -<p>One, <i>if</i>; two, <i>weba</i>; three, <i>ikhba</i>; four, <i>beshna</i>; five, <i>khoba</i>; six, <i>fiba</i>; seven, -<i>bezba</i>; eight, <i>aba</i>; nine, <i>sheba</i>; ten, <i>zoba</i>; eleven, <i>akzoba</i>; twelve, <i>webazoba</i>. -Come, <i>wai</i>; go, <i>úchi</i>; seat, <i>otúi</i>; get up, <i>okil</i>; don’t go, <i>omchin</i>; boy, <i>arísh</i>; I -go, <i>sicháb</i>; wife, <i>abharesh</i>; I don’t go, <i>sikiján</i>; why, <i>úzú</i>.</p> - - -<h3><i>Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza.</i></h3> - -<p>One, <i>weh</i>; two, <i>toka</i>; three, <i>sitte</i>; four, <i>pali</i>; five, <i>ashú</i>; six, <i>korn</i>; seven, -<i>ipli</i>; eight, <i>ogha</i>; nine, <i>ipfi</i>; ten, <i>zú</i>; eleven, <i>wehzú</i>; twelve, <i>tokazú</i>. Bread, -<i>sakha</i>; meat, <i>gha</i>; water, <i>beri</i>; cheese, <i>feh</i>; curd, <i>chehwáh</i>; pear, <i>kha</i>; raisin, -<i>mosú</i>; figs, <i>lakhmak</i>; chesnuts, <i>akshú</i>; salt, <i>laka</i>; seat, <i>otúz</i>; get up, <i>odeto</i>; -don’t go, <i>omke</i>; I go, <i>síkú</i>; where do you go, <i>síoken</i>; I am busy, I go, <i>súwú</i> -<i>shakagh síkú</i>; bring a girl, <i>zinje doko</i>; I found no girl, but a boy, <i>zinje dokalmet -zeni okhad</i>, &c.</p> - -<p>There are many other languages and dialects besides, but I have quoted only some -words which I acquired in the course of trading; I have written them as I could, -but there is a great difference between the speaking and writing, the pronunciation -being extremely difficult, like the chirping of birds. A great deal of judgment -and sagacity is required to converse with them, but a traveller who knows something -of the world, and of God, and desires to travel quietly, must have a sufficient -idea of every language to understand whether good or evil is intended to him, -whether they are going to offer him bread or a box of the ear; the proverb says, -“Men speak according to their intellect, and, therefore, it is very prudent to -learn some languages for the use of the world;” such a man easily makes his way -through strange countries, and returns safely into port.</p> - -<p>We left the harbour of the Kútassí, and at the end of two days journey along -the seacoast, reached the castle of Anapa. It is said that Alexander the Great, -when commanded by God to build the wall of Gog and Magog, arrived at this place, -he was so much pleased with its air and situation, that he built here a pentagon -castle of immense stones (Shedádí, Cyclopean); the room of the diván was paved -with rubies, emeralds, turquoises and cornelians, and for that reason was called the -Castle Kevherpaí Anapaí. It afterwards fell into the hands of the Genoese, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -when Timúr laid waste the towns of Dadián, Heshdek, and other towns amounting -altogether to the number of seven hundred, in his expedition against Tokhatmish -the Lord of Crimea, he also wasted the suburbs of the castle of Anapa, but the -castle itself was spared. In the reign of Sultán Bayazíd II., the great Vezír Gedek -Ahmed Páshá, leading the expedition against Kaffa, took this castle also from the -Genoese, and put troops into it. It is situated at the extremity of the Cape which -divides the territory of the Abáza from Circassia, on a clay cliff; it is a strong -castle without a garrison, and has been several times ransacked by the Cossacks of -the Tanais. Outside of the castle are one hundred and fifty houses built of reed; -this village is called Kabák. North of the castle are the mountains of Anapa. The -ships which go to Assov sail past these mountains, which extend as far as the -Cossacks of Assov. The castle of Anapa is well built, and in such good preservation, -that it appears as if it had just come out of the hands of the builder. Sheep -and goats are kept inside during the winter. According to the description of -Demir-oghlí Osmán Páshá, Anapa is the seat of a Voivode of the sanjak of Tamán -in the province of Caffa. The people of Shefákí, which is the name of the -inhabitants, only pay their tithes at the point of the halberd, and are three -hundred rebellious subjects. This castle has a large port where a thousand ships -tied together with one rope may ride in safety. It is a large harbour, sheltered -against the wind from all quarters. There is no port like it in the Black Sea; a -kind of pearl was formerly fished for here; the shells still lie on the shore; -another reason why the castle is called Kevhergán (jewel-mine). The Russians -anchor here every year, without the least apprehension, and fish for pearls. If -this castle was put into good condition, with a sufficient garrison and ammunition, -it would be easy to keep all Abáza and Circassia in complete obedience. The -Noghais also bring merchandise to this port in complete security.</p> - -<p>While I, poor Evliyá, was remaining at Anapa with the Yenicherí-agassí of -Konia, the Imperial fleet made its appearance in the Black Sea, and came to -anchor at noon in the port of Anapa. They stayed three days, during which -time all the small craft which had been left behind arrived, and took in water. -I and the Aghá of Konia waited on the Kaima-kám of the Aghá of the Janissaries -with some presents. I then waited on the Lord High Admiral Delí Hossein -Páshá, who assigned me a tent and rations, made me his Múezzin and gave me -a passage on board the galley of his Kiaya Welí. On the following day the 12th -Sha’bán, 1053, the Imperial flag was hoisted, and at noon, the gun for departure -being fired, we left Anapa and made sail for Assov.</p> - -<p>Sultán Murad IV. had planned a great expedition against the Maltese, who -alone remained to be subdued after the conquest of Baghdád, when he was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -removed by death; amongst the fleet fitted out for the purpose there were two -immense large ships, called Kara Maona, of three hundred guns. After his death -the Infidels everywhere raised their heads against the Ottoman Empire, and -the Khán of the Crimea reported to Kara Mustafa Páshá, the great Vezír of -Sultán Ibrahím, that the Russians had overran and plundered the districts of -Crimea and Assov. At last one hundred thousand Cossacks took the fortress -of Assov after a siege of forty days. Eighty thousand Cossacks remained in -possession of it, and one hundred and fifty boats, manned by the rest, infested all -the shores of the Black sea. This news having spread to Constantinople, Imperial -rescripts were sent throughout the whole of Rúmelí. Kojá Gurjí Canaan Páshá, -the governor of Ozakov, and the Governor of Rúmelí with twenty-eight sanjak -Begs, forty thousand Tátárs of Búják, and forty thousand infidels of Moldavia -and Valachia, and twenty thousand Transylvanians, surrounded the fortress of -Assov on the land side. On the seaside came the Imperial fleet of one hundred -and fifty galleys, as many frigates, two hundred shaikas and karamursal, altogether -four hundred ships having forty thousand men on board, which had -weighed anchor in the port of Anapa, passed the mouth of the river Kúbán, and -the castle of Tamán; on our left hand was the Crimea with the point of Kilissejík, -and opposite on the right, the point Chúcka on the peninsula of Tamán. These -two points are but a mile distant, and the inside of this strait is called the sea -of Assov. We entered it with a favourable wind, and came to an anchor in the -port of Bálisíra. Here all the ammunition and provisions were embarked in -small boats, called sandal, sacoleva, sarbúna, and túnbáza; and carried thirty -miles further on to the castle of Assov, because galleys and chaiks drawing five -feet water cannot be used here, as the water is but from two to three feet in depth. -Bálisíra is on the western extremity of the steppes (Heihát Sahrassí) a lonely -place; but the army and fleet having arrived, many thousand houses for men -and wares were built, and it had the air of a large town, being the harbour of -Assov. There arrived here from Circassia, which belongs to the Governorship -of Caffa, of the tribes of Shagák, Shána, Meshúkh, Takafer, Bozúdúk, Pultakaí, -Khatukaí, Kabartaí, and of the troops of Shám-khál Sultán the Lord of Taghistán -forty thousand men, excellent troops, with seven thousand waggons, which served -to transport a part of the munitions and provisions to Assov. The troops -entered the trenches on the 21st of Sha’abán, and the 25th of the same month -arrived from Anatolí seven Vezírs, eighteen Begler-Begs, seventy Sanjaks, and two -hundred Alaï Begs with all the Zaims and Timariots, who with their men (Jebellí) -were forty-seven thousand men. The Tátár Khán was ordered to keep the -look-out, and he surrounded the camp with his army of Noghaí, Kechin-noghaí,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -Shedák-noghaí, Urúmpit-noghaí, Shirínlí, Manssúrlí, Sebhúnlí, Mankitlí, Nakshi-vánlí, -Chekeshke, Irbátlí, Úlí, Olánlí, Badrákli, Arslán Beg Ilí, Chobán Ilí, Deví -Ilí, Nevrúz Ilí, all Tátárs.</p> - -<p>On the same night the Infidels in the fortress, made an immense noise by shouts -and fireworks, which was caused by the arrival of ten thousand Cossacks, who -came by the Tanais to the assistance of the castle, and did not cease firing all -night, so that seven hundred men were killed. The next day the Tátár Khán -and the Páshá of Silistra placed watches on the shore of the Tanais to prevent -further reinforcement of the Infidels, foraging parties were sent out, the trenches -opened in seven places, and on the side of the monument of Yogúrdí-Baba pushed -to the edge of the ditch. The camp of the Moslims was out of reach of the -cannon-shot from the castle. Next day Hossein Páshá, prepared twelve large -cannon for the attack in the trench of Yogúrdí-Baba; and at the same time -the Admiral Seyawúsh Páshá landed troops from a hundred boats, who entered -the trenches from the side of the water tower. These boats (firkata), guarded -the side of Úlúton, Deriton, Kánlijah, Uzegí and the island of Timúr. Above -the water tower the troops of Anatoli with eight large guns, and ten regiments of -janissaries entered the trenches; at those on the south was posted the troops -of Karamania with six regiments; on the western suburb of Tayák, the governor -of Silistra Canán Páshá led ten regiments of janissaries, one of armourers, and -one of artillerymen, with ten large guns in the trenches. In short the castle was -battered on seven sides by seventy large and small cannon, and the Infidels firing -on their side, a terrible contest ensued during seven hours till daybreak, with an -incredible noise and roaring. In the morning seven hundred martyrs were found, -whose goods were consigned to the revenue. The fire was renewed, and the -houses of the town dashed to pieces, but the walls having been strongly built by -the Genoese, continued to resist. This lasted seven days, during which the -Commander-in-chief continually made the round of the trenches, encouraging the -Moslim warriors with words and presents, and carrying every thing on with -deliberation. Several breaches being opened some volunteers ascended one of -them, without order, and planted the Ottoman banner on the wall, which being -seen by the Cossacks, they rushed on in superior numbers, and crushed many -of them by throwing down a leaden basket. The rest, however, defended their -post so well on the walls, that in the end the Ottoman banner was planted on -seven places, and the Mohammedan prayer proclaimed. The Infidels getting new -strength and rushing on like a herd of swine, with the cry “Ne bose,” drove back -the Moslim victors, so that many standards and bodies remained on the breaches, -and the victors solaced themselves with the idea that the conquest was predestined<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> -for another day. For ten days more the Infidels were kept in continual anxiety. -Four thousand Cossacks who came to the assistance of the fortress in forty boats -(firkata) were attacked by Canán Páshá, who brought his guns to bear upon -them so completely, that more than a thousand men perished, and the Moslíms -made an immense booty, which was some comfort for the hardships they had to -struggle with. They rejoiced in the idea that the general assault was near, -because of all the towers of the town there now remained but one, all the rest -having been levelled with the dust by the seventy pieces of artillery. But the -Infidels now intrenched themselves underground like so many Ferháds, and again -fortified themselves in such a manner, that whenever an attempt was made to -overwhelm them by a mine, they averted it, and threw the earth dug up for an intrenchment -into the river. They were most able miners also, and continued to -make mines even underneath the river, with resined boats. Thus they stopped the -Ottoman army for the space of forty days, during which, notwithstanding great -vigilance, many thousand Infidel Cossacks found means to enter the Castle by throwing -themselves naked into the Tanais, and swimming across under water with a -reed in their mouths; their arms and ammunition were put into leathern jacks, which -they threw behind them while swimming, and thus relieved the fortress. To -prevent this the Moslims shut the Tanais with a wall of stakes impenetrable -even to fish, and by this means got great riches from the Infidels, who now -having lost all hope of succour continued the war underground, killing a great -number of the besiegers. A rumour began to spread that the Czar of Russia was -coming with twenty thousand men, and this rumour, though it was only an -invention of the enemy, caused a great deal of disturbance. A great council of -war of all the commanders and officers was assembled to take into consideration, -that though there was now no walls left, yet it had hitherto been found impossible -to take the Castle; that a sedition of the janissaries, who are not obliged to -continue above forty days in the trenches, was to be feared; that the winter was -drawing near, when the Sea of Assov freezes, when all communication would be -intercepted, and no safety for the fleet after the day of Kássim (S. Demetrius); -that there would be no shelter nor provisions for the army, the country of the -Infidels being on the north, and the salt steppes of Heihát on the east and south. -After a long consultation, in which all these topics were touched upon, Canán -Páshá and Piále Aghá, the Kiaya of the Arsenal, proposed to fix the general assault -for the next morning. The Fátíhah being read on this resolution, great joy was -spread in the Ottoman camp; seven thousand swords, two thousand shields, two -thousand muskets, five thousand bows, forty thousand arrows, six thousand -halberds, five thousand granades, and many thousand other articles of arms were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -distributed amongst the army, the cannons fired from seven sides and the shout -of Allah raised so that it filled the steppes of Kipchák. The Moslims rushed into -the castle and penetrated into the inmost recess of it, where they hoisted the -banner and proclaimed the prayer of Islám.</p> - -<p>The guns were now silenced, and the swords alone were clashing. During -seven hours and a half the Mussulmáns were raging in the castle like wolves -amongst sheep, and stained with blood like butchers. It was a complete victory -to which none can be compared excepting those of Kossova and Mohacs. -The rest of the Infidels hidden beneath the ground, now set fire to the mines, -and sent by that means great numbers of the Moslim besiegers to Heaven; others -shot them from the loopholes so that they were in great distress. It being now -near sunset, and the victors being exhausted by fatigue and hunger, were called -on to retire by the Chaúshes, who admonished them to leave the end to the -next day. They carried an immense deal of booty with them, arms of all kinds -and three thousand heads of Infidels, besides one thousand and sixty prisoners. -A general salute was fired, and the martyrs buried, after the funeral prayer was -said over them. The wounded and maimed received pensions, and were given -into the hands of the surgeons. Those who brought heads received a reward -of a hundred piastres, and those who had made prisoners were allowed to keep -them. Chelenks, ziámets, timárs, and all kind of military rewards were distributed, -and the property of seven hundred janissaries who were killed was -made over to the revenue. Of the troops on the seven sides of the attack one -thousand two hundred men became martyrs and ascended to Heaven. On this -night the Infidels made incredible efforts to repair the works of the castle, by -raising walls and digging ditches, opening loopholes and pointing guns. The -foundations of the castle resembled the wall of Gog and Magog, to the great -consternation of the Moslims, who solaced themselves, saying: “Man proposes -and God disposes,” recommending their business to God. They continued the -war, but not with the same unanimity, though not with less zeal than before. A -great council of war was held, under the consideration that there now remained -only forty days to Kássim (S. Demetrius). The result of the council was, that -Geraï-Khán, with seventy thousand regular troops, and eight hundred thousand -horse, was ordered to ravage the provinces of Russia. So they did, and this -Tátár army returned on the 14th day to the Ottoman camp at Assov, with forty-five -thousand prisoners and two hundred thousand horses as booty, besides a -great number of valuable things, pelisses, rich cloth, &c. By this arrival, the -hearts of the Moslims were comforted, and those of the Infidels afflicted, when -they saw the triumphal procession with the prisoners fettered, and the crosses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -upset. Since the time of Jenguíz Khan the Tátárs had not made a richer booty. -This sight raised a howl among the Infidels in the castle, who pierced the skies -with their lamentations. The same night seventy Infidels, hungry and sad, left -the castle, and were brought into the presence of the Commander-in-Chief, -Hossein Páshá. Some of them embraced the Islám, and received presents, then -were sent altogether to the castle of Khoros Kermán near Assov.</p> - -<p>By this immense booty every thing became immensely cheap in the Ottoman -camp, so that a horse was sold for one piastre, a girl for five, and a boy for six -piastres. The safe return of the Tátár army was celebrated by a triple salute -of muskets and guns, and the whole camp illuminated during the night. But -winter drawing near, a new council was held, all the seniors of the regular troops -and of the Tátárs agreed, and signed unanimously a petition of three hundred -signatures of Vezírs, and officers of all ranks, saying: “that for this year it was -impossible to take the castle, that one of the Russian Capitals had been laid -waste, that seventy thousand Infidels had been taken prisoners, and more than -one hundred thousand destroyed by the sword.” At the same time two of the -prisoners, who had been instructed accordingly, were sent back into the castle to -say; “that if the Turks had intended to take the castle, they might have taken it -in a month, but their object was to pillage the Russian countries, and to return -with a rich booty, which they had now accomplished.” The same night as the -messengers went off to Constantinople there was such a hard frost that all the -Moslim warriors thought they could not stand it, and by this specimen found out -that the salt steppe of Heihát was as unmerciful as the Black Sea. At last the despair -of conquering the castle becoming general, the whole army at once resolved to -raise the siege. The trumpets were sounded, the artillery and ammunition -embarked and carried to Bálisíra, where the fleet was lying at anchor. The -army returned by different ways, some by sea and some by land, to Constantinople; -some by the desert of Kipchák in six days and nights to the river Kúbán, -to Circassia, Taman and Crimea; some through the steppes (Heihát), returned by -the north into their native country Circassia. When the Imperial fleet weighed -for Constantinople I got permission, from the Commander-in-Chief Hossein Páshá, -to accompany the Khán of Crimea into his country, and the Imperial fleet sailed, -trusting in God, through the sea of Assov.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_THE_CRIMEA">JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA.</h2></div> - - -<p>I left Assov in company with the army of Geraï Khán of eighty thousand men, -and twenty thousand Infidels of Moldavia and Valachia, and crossed the Tanais with -them, which disembogues at the end of the sea of Assov. The water being -shallow in the great Don, it was passed by eight hundred thousand horsemen -without the least difficulty, the water reaching only to the stirrups. The Tátárs -tied their jacks and luggage to the tails of their horses, and in the space of twenty-one -hours, the whole army reached the opposite steppes of Heihát.</p> - -<p>At the station of Búrebaí, opposite to the western side of Assov, a branch -of the Don flows in its way to the sea of Assov, where it disembogues in three -different channels; as it runs through reeds for a great distance, it is not very -sweet: the complexion of the inhabitants on its shores is yellow, and they have a -kind of excrescence or crop on the neck. The whole army halted here, as on a -pleasant flowery meadow, and three hundred horses were slaughtered and eaten -up that evening. It was here that I ate horseflesh for the first time. Though I -belonged to the Tátár Khán, yet I lived with Kiá Beg of the tribe of Mássúrlí, -who have their Yúrds (encampments) in Crimea; the district of Mankis Eli on the -side of Gozlava is their Yúrd. Their horses are extremely fat, and their flesh can -hardly be distinguished from roes’ flesh, and is easy to digest. Next morning the -kettle-drums beat, and after a march of nine hours we arrived at the river Sud, -which the whole army crossed, and halted on the other side, but the ground being -extremely marshy, one hundred horses and fifty slaves were lost in the marshes. -This river issues from the western mountains of Russia and here enters the sea of -Assov. The name Sud or milk-river is derived from its whitish colour, which it -contracts from the different metallic strata over which it passes in its course. It is -not good for drinking, and causes crops or swellings on the necks of those who -drink of it. There are seventy cultivated towns and villages on both sides of this -river, but they are not very flourishing on account of the depredations of the -Crimea Tátárs. These places all belong to the Russians.</p> - -<p>We left this place and came to the river Mús, a large river which we passed over -with the greatest difficulty at this cold season, the arms being all put in leather -jacks. It is fresh water like that of the Don, Dnieper, and Danube, and contains -excellent fish. It comes from the northern mountains of Russia. We crossed it, -and next day when the Kettle-drums were beaten for departure, the snow had -fallen three cubits deep. We slept that night on the snow of the field of Kipchák,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span> -and arrived next day at the station of Búrúmbaí; here we slept again on the -snow, and on the following day after sixteen hours ride, reached the frontier of -Crimea.</p> - -<p>The moment we entered the castle of Orághzí, Kara Rejíb Aghá, the Courier of -the great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, with twenty horsemen arrived from Constantinople, -and after having heard the sad story of the impossibility to take Assov, -took letters from the Khán, and returned to Constantinople. I poor Evlíya entered -the town of Bágcheseraï with the Khán, and was assigned a house there on the -borders of the valley of Chúrúksú (rotten water) where I quietly passed the winter -without travelling one step. But the Khán to prevent the Infidels sending -reinforcements to the castle of Assov, made three excursions with between forty -and fifty thousand horsemen even up to the guns of Assov, bringing back prisoners. -His Vezír (the Kalgha Sultán) made also three expeditions into the interior of Russia, -and returned with ten thousand slaves and a great deal of booty to Crimea. In -the beginning of spring came Hassan Aghá the Chamberlain of the Sublime Porte -bringing to the Khán twelve thousand ducats as boot-money, and an Imperial -diploma commanding him to be ready to take the field, with the commencement of -the fine season, against Assov. The Khán received the orders with all signs of -submission and duty, the horses were put to feed in the meadows for forty days, -after which the army broke up again to return to Assov, the garrison of which, -weighing all the hardships of siege, their losses, and the impossibility of holding -the fortress finally against the Ottoman power, abandoned it and fled with their -arms and effects to different other Castles.</p> - -<p>The Tátár Khán having arrived on the border of the river Sud, heard of the -flight of the garrison from some prisoners he had taken, and made the greatest -possible haste to reach the fortress. He found it empty, not only of men, but -also of animals, neither dog, cat nor mouse being seen; only one Genoese tower -remained standing. The Tátár Khán then sent the welcome news to Constantinople. -On the eleventh day some Russian spies coming from Constantinople were taken -and brought before the Tátár Khán. They confessed freely and openly, that -there were forty spies at the Port, who, having been aware of the immense -preparations of the Ottoman Army, had given notice to the garrison to leave the -Castle, and that arriving there themselves, they had fallen into the hands of the -Tátárs. These three spies were beheaded. On the 13th day of this month the -Ottoman army arrived with great pomp, commanded by Chowán Kapújí-báshí -Vezir Mohammed Páshá, and found the fortress empty. They ascribed it at first -to some infernal stratagem of the Infidels, and waited three days, on the fourth -day Moslim prayer was proclaimed, and all the Moldavians and Valachians were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> -commanded to work on the foundations and to build them anew. They dug -three days till they came to springs of water; the ships were all busy carrying -stones from an old Convent in the island of Timúrlenk, and the work of building -was begun. In one month two towers were finished, stronger than the former -Genoese towers, and the histories of Crimea record the date of its building and -name of the builder. It was declared the seat of a Sanjak Beg belonging to the -government of Kaffa, a Begler-Beg was left as commander with twenty regiments -of Janissaries, six regiments of artillerymen, ten regiments of armourers, seven -thousand Tátárs, seven Sanjak Begs, and twelve Alaï Begs, with twenty-six -thousand men; seventy large guns on the bulwarks, and three hundred small ones -on the border of the ditch. The complete repair and fitting out cost the sum of -five thousand purses. During its building the Tátárs made seven inroads into -Russia, and returned with from fifteen to twenty thousand prisoners to the Ottoman -camp, so that the prisoners were sold for no more than ten piastres each. At -last the King of the Moscovites imploring pardon and crying out, Amán! Amán! -(pardon O Family of Osmán!) sent ambassadors to Constantinople. The building -being nearly finished, the Commander-in-Chief Mahommed Páshá returned to -Constantinople, and the rest of the army got permission to return to their homes. -I again followed the tribe of Mássúrlí, and came with them to Crimea. We took -our pleasure for twenty days in Bágcheseraï, then got permission from the Khán -to return to Constantinople, with a present of a purse of piastres, three slaves, a -sable pelisse, and a caftán. The Kalgha Sultán and Núr-ud-dín Sultán (the two -first dignities of the Tátár court) and fourteen Aghás, gave me a slave each, -so that I had a number of slaves and four purses of money; to these slaves I added -the eighteen which I had acquired on my travels from Trebisonde to Mingrelia and -Abaza, took leave of the Khán and all the great men, and mounted on the horses -of the Kalgha-Sultán, began my journey in company with some friends, who -remained with me till we arrived at Káchidere. There we parted, all my friends -returned to Bágcheseraï, and I continued my way to the south for the space of -six hours to Báliklava.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Báliklava.</i></h3> - -<p>Prevented by warlike expeditions from visiting with leisure the curiosities of -Crimea, I dare not give a description of it; such is also the case with the castle -of Báliklava. Having embarked here with three hundred persons on board of the -Shaika of Úchelí Sefer Reis, I slept on board, troubled by heavy dreams; on the -next day I went on shore, to do away the evil of the night by some alms, and -next day got clear of the port in an evil hour, succeeded, as the text of the Korán<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> -says, by worse days. One day and one night we went straight before the wind, -and were then about the middle of the Black Sea. The mountains of Báliklava -and Súlúyár had disappeared, neither were those of Sinope and Amassra to be -seen, and we were tossed about without well knowing where we were going to. -All at once an easterly gale sprung up with thundering clouds, at the appearance -of which the boatmen changed colour, and began to wring their hands; they -looked at the compass, and then on each other, and already made up their minds -to lose their souls. An old sailor said to them; “Lads (Dais!) don’t you see -the forerunners of a tempest, what are you afraid of? Lower the topmast with -the sail.” This they did, but the ship going too heavy, they threw the bags, -mats, casks and trunks that were on deck into the sea; they stowed two hundred -young prisoners below (Enbár) and closed the hatches. Thus the ship was -lightened, but still terribly tossed by the effect of the currents. Verse:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">“If in the storm my bark drives on the strand,</div> -<div class="verse">What shall I do? none can the winds command.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>On the fourth of Safer of the year 1055, the storm began to buffet us most unmercifully, -nothing but thunder and lightning, hail and torrents of rain pouring -down on us for three days and nights. The sailors exhausted by fatigue all -crept into one corner of the ship. Of the passengers, some were vomiting, some -praying, some vowing victims and sacrifices, some alms and pilgrimages. I, poor -Evliyá, said: “Come, Servants of God, come and pray with me the Súra Ikhláss -(deliverance) which God may be pleased to grant to us.” All having began to -recite this Súra fervently, the weather cleared up, the storm ceased, but the -tossing of the ship continued in a most dreadful manner; the ship now touched -the highest heavens, and now descended into the deepest of hells. The waves of -the Black Sea towered before us like the perpendicular walls of Mount Bisútún. -At last we opened the magazine (Enbár) and threw all the heavy merchandize -into the sea, but again to no purpose. We saw that the rudder was going to -break, and to prevent this all the sailors united and began to cut with hatchets, -first the stays, then the mast, which in falling into the sea killed eleven men. -Until their bodies were thrown overboard, there was such a howling in the ship, -that every body despaired of life, and felt that he must give up his soul. At this -moment there again came a puff of wind (Sighinák) which threatening to tear -the ship asunder drove all the prisoners and slaves crying and lamenting out -of the magazine; some held together, clasping one another, some stripped naked, -and all endeavouring to lay hold of a plank or a cask. I, poor Evlíyá, feeling -myself in a state of agitation continued to pray the Súra-Yass, and recommended<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -all my things to God by saying the verse: “I recommend my business to -God,” and that: “Who fears God shall find a place to walk out, and shall find -his lot provided, from whence he did not expect it; and who trusts in God shall -not be abandoned by him.” While repeating these prayers I saw that some Infidels -(prisoners) got hold of the launch, and let it down by ropes, at the same time some -other sailors were throwing themselves on the other side, with planks, into the -sea. I, and seven of my companions watching the moment of the launch going -down threw ourselves into it; the Infidels instantly cut the ropes, and two of -them, attacked with a knife Ramazán Chelebí of Aintáb. My seven companions -immediately drew their swords against the eight Infidels who had raised their -hands against us, and killed four of them; the four others throwing themselves -into the sea from fright, we remained masters of the launch. We threw all -heavy luggage overboard, and the launch being now light and tossed by the -waves, I saw how the great ship was cleft asunder from stem to stern, and three -hundred and fifty passengers, merchants, and four hundred slaves were spread -over the sea, some going to the bottom, some trying to be saved by swimming, -some on planks, and some trying to reach our boat, of whom we took in the story-teller -Emír Chelebí. When we laid hold of him, others came up swimming, and -we were soon convinced, that if we took them in we should all go to the bottom -together, we, therefore, sword in hand, kept off all those who offered to lay hold -of the launch. The wreck of the ship had now disappeared with all the men, and -while we continued tossing up and down, our turbans heavy with the water, we -perceived the Judge of Menkúb, Alí Efendí, swimming like an angel of the -Ocean. By the hand of Divine power he was brought near our boat, and we -took him in, so that there were now ten of us in it. We continued to pray -the Súra-Yass, and drove on, baling out the water, and all despairing of life. -Thus we drove a day and night, all shivering with cold, naked and starved, crying -and lamenting. The story-teller and the judge were attacked by a fit of apoplexy, -we threw their corpses into the sea, and were reduced as before to eight -persons; but we had the misfortune to have a large piece of timber twenty cubits -length and one yard in breadth, which drove along with the boat, touching it from -time to time without our being able to prevent it.</p> - -<p>On the third day at noon a wave came which upset the boat, and I fell head-foremost -into the sea; being a good swimmer I worked with all my strength, -recommended myself to the Lord, to the intercession of the Korán, and all the -Saints, all the great and pious men I had hitherto known on my travels, and by -this kind of effort, keeping my head clear, I swam undaunted. I saw that the large -piece of timber, which had before swam alongside our boat, was passing near to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> -me, and instantly laid hold of it, encircling it like a serpent. Driving in this -way, shivering and starved, all at once I heard a noise behind me, and looking -round I saw two Georgian boys, two Circassian girls and a Russian slave, who -had all laid hold of the long piece of timber on which I was driving. I was much -afraid that their weight would sink the timber, and was just thinking how to get -rid of my companions in misfortune, when an empty cask driving by, the Russian -slave wished to get hold of it, and threw himself into the sea for that purpose, but -not being able to reach it he was drowned, and only the four slaves remained. -The storm was now completely clearing-up, the sea going down, and the next -day land coming in sight, we were thrown on the shore exhausted and half-dead. -I threw myself on the ground, to praise God and to thank his infinite mercy, who -having taken away from me eighteen slaves acquired in my travels in Mingrelia -and Abaza, again made me a present of four slaves, two fine boys and two pretty -girls. Being thrown into an inlet of the rocks, some good people gave us dresses -to cover our nakedness, and hoisted us up the rocks which appeared to pierce -the skies. Having asked where I was, I was told that these were the mountains -of Kilghra in the sanjak of Silistra. Thus I had been driven three days in the -boat from the moment the ship went down, and after the boat was upset, twenty-four -hours on the timber, till I was thrown on the shore at Kilghra, with the -Dervishes of which place I immediately began a devotional conversation, and -occupied the cells, which they assigned to me and my slaves.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán.</i></h3> - -<p>This building is ascribed to Sárí Sáltik Sultán, who having been ordained a -Dervish in the town of Yassú by Ahmed Yassúí, came with Hájí Begtásh and -three hundred poor people to Sultán Orkhán, and was sent after the conquest of -Brússa into Russia and Poland, Bohemia and Dobrúja. Hají Begtásh gave him a -wooden sword, a carpet, a banner, a drum, kettle-drum and trumpet. Kilghra -Sultán with seventy disciples spread the hide (on which they sat) upon the sea, -and went, praying, drums beating and banners flying, from Rúmelí to Crimea, and -from thence to the people of Heshdek in Moscovy and Lipka in Poland. At -Danzig he conversed with Svíty Nicola the patriarch, whose name is the same as -Sárí Sáltik whom he killed, adopted his habit, and by this means converted many -thousands to Islám. Thus he travelled many years under the name of Sárí Sáltik, -and being himself yellow-coloured (as Sárí Sáltik was) he obtained from Ahmed -Yassúí the name of the yellow Beg. But his proper name is Mohammed -Bokhara, and he settled afterwards at Paravadí. The King of Dobrúja requested -a miracle from Sárí Sáltik in confirmation of his mission. There was then in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> -Dobrúja a terrible dragon, to which even the two daughters of the King were -allotted as food. Sárí Sáltik agreed to deliver the two girls, on condition -that they with their father would embrace Islám. He went to the column to -which they were tied as victims for the dragon, accompanied by his seventy -Dervishes, who were beating drums and swinging the banner; untied the Princesses, -and then waited with his wooden sword, expecting the dragon himself, meanwhile -the seventy Dervishes beat the drum. The dragon coming near, Sárí -Sáltik addressed it with the verse of the Korán beginning;—“Greeting on Noe -in both worlds,” and then cut off three of his heads, so that the dragon fled with -the remaining four. Sárí Sáltik followed him up to his cave, at the entrance -of which he cut off the remainder with his wooden sword, and followed the -dragon into his den. The beheaded dragon began to struggle with the Saint and -to press him against the rock, which gave way so wonderfully as to receive the -Saint’s body, which place with the marks of his hands and feet are still actually -shewn. The dragon having exhausted his strength fell to the ground dead, and -the Saint, with his bloody breast and bloody wooden sword, now led the two girls -to their father the king. Previous to their arrival a cursed monk, who had shewn -to Sáltik Súltán the road to the column, and picked up there the tongues and -ears of the three heads cut off, had laid them before the king, boasting that he -had killed the dragon. Now, though the daughters asserted the contrary, yet the -monk persisting in his boast, the Saint proposed as a proof, to be boiled with the -monk in a cauldron, and though the monk did not like this kind of trial, yet by -order of the king he was obliged to undergo it. Sárí Sáltik was tied up by his -Dervishes, and the monk by his companions, and both put into a cauldron heated by -an immense fire. It was at this hour that Hájí Begtásh, who was then at -Kírshehrí in Anatolia swept with a handkerchief a dripping rock, saying: “My -Sáltik Mahomed is now in great anxiety, God assist him!” Ever since that day -salt-water has dropped from that rock, and from thence the salt called Hájí -Begtásh is produced. The place where this cauldron was heated is shewn at the -present day, and the mountain is called the mountain of the cauldron Kazán -Balkání. The cauldron being opened Sárí Sáltik was found sweating and -saying: “Ya Hayí, O all vivifying;” and of the monk nothing remained but -black coals and burnt bones. The King of Dobrúja moved by this miracle, -instantly embraced Islám, with seven thousand of his subjects; he sent ambassadors -to Sultán Orkhán, and received from him in exchange, the appointment -of a Judge, a tail and a banner. His name was Alí Mokhtár. In the same -year Sárí Sáltik made his will, wherein he commanded seven coffins to be made, -because seven kings were to contend for his body after his death. This hap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span>pened -indeed as he foretold, because being washed after death and put into the -coffin, seven kings claimed to have the true body, which was found in every -one of the seven coffins when opened. The seven kings who desired to be possessed -of the true body were the King of Muscovia, where Sárí Sáltik is held in -great veneration under the name of Svíty Nicola; the King of Poland, where his -tomb is much frequented at Danzig; the King of Bohemia, where his coffin is -shewn in the town of Pezzúnijah (?) and in Sweden at Bívánjah (?). The fifth -King was of Adrianople, where his tomb is in the Convent of the town of Batúria -which is now a large place called Baba-eskissí, and is visited by those, -who travel from Constantinople to Adrianople. The sixth King was that of -Moldavia, who buried it in a shady place near the Castle of Bozák, where Báyazíd -II. after the conquest of Akkermán, built a mosque, an imáret, a college, a bath, -a khán and a monument for Sárí Sáltikdedeh; this town is called Babatághí; a -pleasant town all belonging to the endowments of Sárí Sáltik. The seventh coffin -was taken possession of by Alí Mokhtár the converted King of Dobrúja, who -buried it at Kilghra in the cave of the Dragon, and hence he is called Kilghra -Sultán; Kilghra signifies in Latin a seven-headed dragon, it is the purest Latin. -Of these seven burial-places of this Saint, three are in the Ottoman Empire, from -which he is called Baba Sultán at Babatágh; Sárí Sáltik Sultán at Baba-Eskissí; -and here, Kilghra Sultán; in Christian countries he is generally called St. Nicolas, -is much revered and the Christian monks ask alms under his auspices.</p> - -<p>The Convent is situated on a cape which extends into the Black Sea like the -proboscis of an Elephant. The ships that sail from Constantinople to Kara -Khirmen, Kostenjí, and Kilí pass along these rocks of Kilghra directly opposite to -those of Sinope, and if the weather is clear, are mutually seen from both shores. -The cave in which Sárí Sáltik killed the dragon is at the same time his burial place. -The convent was built by Alí Mokhtár; the wooden sword of the Saint, his swing, -half-drum, kettle-drum, drum, banner and sanjak are kept here, numerous cells -surround it, occupied by learned and virtuous Dervishes, who reside here on their -hides, all true Sunnis and faithful believers, more than one hundred. They read -with me more than eight months according to the method of Hafss. The windows -of the Convent, and of the monument, all look towards the sea. The magnificent -kitchen like that of Keikavús is worth seeing; day and night the fire is -kept up on the stove for passengers and strangers, they have no endowments but -live on alms; they are all purified by mystic divine love. To the right and left -of the mountain are many wells in the rocks. The rocks being perpendicular -like those of Mount Bisútún are excavated at the base. The projecting rocks are -so lofty that ships with topmasts an hundred yards high may enter here, and come<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -to an anchor. The masters of these ships take in barley and wheat which is -brought in waggons to the mouths of the aforesaid shafts which are cut in the -rock, and poured down them into the holds; these shafts were cut in ancient -times by Infidel stonecutters, who were like so many Ferháds; and it is a -peculiar sight not to be seen elsewhere, and saves a circuit of between three and -four hours in bringing the barley to the foot of the rock. There are no such -high and dreary rocks any where in the Black Sea. During southernly and -easternly gales, the sea produces a roaring in the excavations, which is heard as far -as Iflatár and Ilhánlar near Silistra, a day’s journey from hence. On the top of -these rocks are nests of eagles each as large as a sheep, they are even killed and -eaten by some for mutton. Near the Convent is the Castle of Kilghra, which -was taken by Mússa Chelebí out of the hands of the Infidels. It belongs to the -district of Bálchik in the government of Ozakov. It is a small but strong square -castle on the seashore, twenty paces in circumference, with a gate opening to the -west, it has neither mosque or khán, commander or garrison. Being situated on -a limestone cliff it has no ditch on one side; on the east side is a precipice of one -hundred fathoms; the lower part of this castle is also excavated, like the rocks of -the convent. When Nassif Páshá Zadeh Hossein was governor of Ozakov, these -shores were sometimes infested by the Cossacks and Infidel Russians, who made -prisoners of the inhabitants. Hossein Páshá then renewed this castle at his own -expense, and garrisoned it, so that the shores were protected from inroads; but -the Great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá, having taken away the garrison in order to -mortify Hossein Páshá, the castle remained deserted. Praise be to God, that after -having escaped the dangers of the sea, and being delivered from it before, as the -bird of the soul left the cage of the body, I passed eight months here in sweet -conversation, till at the commencement of the spring I took leave of my friends -and returned to Constantinople.</p> - - -<h3><i>Return to Constantinople.</i></h3> - -<p>In the spring of 1054, I took leave of Kilghra Sultán and embarking with my -four slaves coasted the shore of the Black Sea, so that at the least storm I -could come to an anchor. Thus I passed on my road, Kavarna, Bálchik, Varna, -Ahiebolí, Sízebolí, Missivra, Búrghás, Chenkina, the island of mirrors (Aina -adassí or Inada) and the strong castle of Torkoz. Near this place is the flowery -meadow, and pleasant place of Skúmrí-jair where the janissaries and kúrújis are -encamped, and from hence watch over the security of the adjacent villages, because -some years ago these shores were infested by Cossacks. From hence we came to -the black stones (Cyanies), a rocky ground outside of the mouth of the Bosphorus.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span> -It was changed into stone by a woman’s distaff, and is a curious sight. We passed -it, and in God’s name entered the channel of Constantinople, anchoring before the -Castle of Kavák. I went on shore, and thanked God for the happy escape from -the dangers of the Black Sea. The length of the Black Sea from the Bosphorus -to Trebisonde at the mouth of the Phasus is fifteen hundred miles, the shores -of the Abáza are seventeen hundred miles, and to the corner of the sea of -Assov two thousand miles; seventeen hundred large and small streams fall -into it. The largest is the Danube, which receives seven hundred rivers in its -course, and disembogues into the Black Sea by five branches, at Kili, Túlja, -Súlina, and Kara-khirmen; the Phasus, and Chúrúgh on the Asiatic side. The -Kúbán near the castle of Tamán, the river of Assov, the river of Ozakov, and -the Dniester; on the Asiatic shore the Kizil Irmák, the Wesnesday river, and the -Sakaria. From Constantinople to Caffa is reckoned one thousand miles, to -Báliklava eleven hundred, to A’kkermán fifteen hundred, to Varna five hundred; -from the point of Kilghra to that of Sinope five hundred, from the mouth of -the Bosphorus to Amassra one thousand, and to Heraclea one hundred. The -whole circuit of the Black Sea, with that of Assov, is six thousand and sixty -miles, and if made by land is one hundred and fifty days or five months journey, -each day’s journey to be reckoned twelve hours. As soon as I arrived at -Constantinople I hastened to Eyyúb to read once more the Korán there, having -performed which I went to my parents, who received me with the greatest kindness. -I swore never to try the navigation of the Black Sea any more. May God guard -from its misfortunes all the faithful people of Mohammed. I then became the -Imám of the Inspector of the mouth, and soon found by the presents from my -friends, compensation for the loss I sustained in the Black Sea, of my eighteen -slaves and other things.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="EXPEDITION_AGAINST_MALTA_IN_THE_YEAR_1055_1645">EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE YEAR 1055 (1645).</h2></div> - - -<p>The Kizlar Aghá of Sultán Ibrahím Sunbul Aghá after his dismissal from the -Seraï, embarked for Egypt with fifty fair slave girls, and as many boys, and forty -horses of the best breed, in the Caravel of Ibrahím Chelebí. He stowed all his -riches for three months into the six magazines of this Caravel, and went on board -with five hundred armed men of his suite, three hundred merchants, two hundred -sailors, and Ezírí Mohammed Efendí who was exiled into Egypt; altogether one -thousand three hundred persons, who sailed on Friday, trusting in God. Near -Rodos they met six Maltese Galleys, with whom they had an engagement of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> -twenty four hours, during which the horses getting loose increased the confusion -of battle. The Caravel was dismasted and dismantled, and except two hundred -men all the rest fell martyrs. The owner of the ship upbraiding the Kizlar Aghá, -said unto him: “Cursed Arab did I not tell thee not to put horses into the ship, -but rather to take in stores and ammunition; but thou didst obtain an Imperial -order, hast overloaded the ship, and in that way given up to the Infidels.” Thus -saying, he with his sword severed the Kizlar Aghá’s head from his body, and was -himself at the same moment cut into pieces by the suite of the Eunuch, who -rushed on him with drawn swords. The Infidels witnessing this fact, boarded the -ship, fought for three hours more on board of it, made the rest of the men including -Ezírí Mohammed Efendí prisoners and took the ship directly into the harbour of -Canea, where they came to an anchor. Here they remained a month selling the -horses and slaves, and violating all the girls. Some prudent monks and patricians -said: “Woe to us, better would it have been not to see this Ottoman ship in this -town, with its horses and girls, because a prophecy exists, that if this happened, -the island would fall into the hands of the Moslíms.” This rumour being spread -was the cause of many families emigrating from the island, the population of which -then consisted of four hundred thousand Greeks, and seventy six towns and castles -were garrisoned by sixteen thousand Soldiers. This is the account obtained at that -time by my Lord Alí Aghá the inspector of the custom house. The Emperor -being much hurt at the unhappy accident of the Kizlar Aghá, immediately sent -for the Venetian Bailo, accusing him and his whole mission with a breach of the -peace, by allowing the Maltese to sell Ottoman goods in their harbour. They -kissed the earth and said: “Gracious Emperor, our capitulations stated, that if -your Imperial fleet conduct prizes of Infidel ships into our ports, we are to -receive them as guests. God forbid that we should intend to break the peace, we -were forced by the Maltese Infidels to admit them.” The Emperor then asked, if -they would assist him with men and ships; they promised readily to furnish three -hundred ships, on which they were invested with robes of honour, and lulled by these -means into the sleep of hares. Three thousand purses were issued from the -Imperial treasury for the preparations for war, and Kapijí-Báshís sent to one -hundred and fifty districts on the side of Jáínak, Sinope, Amassra, Ergelí, Koja Ilí and -Isnikmíd, to buy and get ready timber for three hundred ships. From the mountains -A’alemtágh and Kapútágh (in the neighbourhood of Constantinople) wood was -brought in abundance, so that all the magazines of the arsenal were full of it. The -ship-builders of all the Islands were called in, and every week a galley was launched. -An Imperial High Admiral’s Ship (Bashtarda, Head tartana,) and ten Maúnas were -built, and the Arsenal swarmed with busy men. Vezírs were sent into Rúmelí<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span> -and Anatoli to collect armies, Khassekís and the standard-bearer of the prophet -were dispatched to Algiers, Tunis, and Tripolis, with twelve thousand ducats of -powder-money, and Imperial rescripts exhorting them to join the Capitan Páshá -in the spring. It was generally reported, that this expedition was planned against -Malta, but the Emperor, the Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and the Muftí were alone -in the secret. The following was the Fetva proposed and given by the Mufti.</p> - -<p><i>Query</i>:—If the Infidels are possessed of a land, which was formerly in the -possession of Moslíms, if they have defiled its mosques, colleges and oratories -with their superstitions, if they plunder Mussulman merchants and pilgrims, -can the Emperor of the Islám, moved by his zeal for the house of God, wrest -these countries from the hands of Infidels, and add them to the Mussulman -territory?</p> - -<p><i>Answer</i>:—God knows everything best. Peace with the Infidels is but legal, -if advantageous to all Moslíms, but if not, it is not legal at all. As soon as it -is useful, it is also allowed to break the peace, be it concluded for a fixed time, or -for ever. This is justified by the example of the Prophet, who having concluded -peace with the Infidels, which was broken by Alí in the 6th year of the -Hejíra, took the field against them in the 8th year, and conquered Mecca. The -Emperor has but imitated the Sunna of the Prophet. God bless his victories. -This was written by the poor despised Abú Sá’id.</p> - -<p>The Emperor took this Fetva and stuck to it like to a cable of safety; he went -the same day to visit the tomb of Eyyúb, was twice girt there by the Muftí with -the sword of Omar, in anticipation of victory, and then went to the Arsenal, where -two hundred galleys were fitted out and filled with troops. Fifty other galleys -were ready at the landing-place of the Flour-hall; thirty-six regiments of janissaries, -ten of artillerymen, and ten of armourers, were embarked in great transport -ships, Maúna. The governor of Rúmelí with the troops of twenty-four sanjaks, -with all the Tímariots and Zaims forming an army of twenty-two thousand, and -with the Jebellís of twenty-seven thousand men, was ordered to repair to the -Dardanelles; the troops of Morea, Sirmium, Semendra, Bosna, and Herzogavina, -were ordered to embark at the castle of Benefshe in the island of Morea. The -governor of Anatoli with the army of his fourteen sanjaks, and the men of one -hundred and ninety-nine military fiefs, amounting to five thousand five hundred -and eighty-nine men, with the Jebellís and the household of the Páshá, altogether -twenty thousand men, were also commanded to the Dardanelles on the Asiatic -side. The governors of Damascus, Haleb, Diarbekr, Mera’ash, Adana, Karamán, -Sivás, and Trebisonde, with seventy thousand men received similar orders. At the -same time that the Kapíjí-báshís and Khassekís, who had been sent to collect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> -those troops, reported that they were ready at the Dardanelles, the cavalry had -been embarked at Constantinople. At the beginning of spring, the whole fleet -was ready, consisting of two hundred galleys, tartanas, galliots, twelve large -Maúna, one hundred Firkata, Caravella, galleons, pinks, Bútáj, Shaitie, Shaika -and Karamursal, with a great number of pioneers and miners on board. Altogether -seven hundred ships, were anchored before the point of the Seraglio.</p> - -<p>At the Sinán Koshk the Úlemas and all the great men waited on the -Emperor; the Vezírs, Begler-begs, Captains, Aghás, and Colonels, going to war, -one thousand seven hundred individuals, were invested with magnificent dresses. -The Commander-in-Chief Yússúf Páshá, the great Vezír Kara Mustafa Páshá and -the Muftí alone remained with the Emperor, the rest having already gone on -board. Sultán Ibrahím took the Vezír and Commander-in-Chief each by the -hand, went with them into a corner, and said: “Yússúf, where art thou going -to.” Yússúf Páshá answered, “To Malta if it please God,” and Ibrahim replied, -“If it please God, by the destination of the all vivifying, all standing, have I -given to thee the destination to go to the island of Crete. Keep this a secret to -thyself, and continue to say thou art going to Malta; take that direction with -the fleet first, remain a couple of days on the shores of Morea, and then sail -back to Candia; disembark the troops before daybreak, and take possession of -St. Todero, so as to have a firm post, from whence to begin the siege of -Canea. These are my instructions, if thou return victorious, (if it please God) -I’ll reward you to a degree that you shall appear with a brilliant face before God. -Keep your secret well, according to the maxim, which commands every man to -hide three things, Zeheb, Zeháb, and Mezheb, viz. his gold, his walks, his sect.” -After this instruction Yússúf Páshá was invested with two golden robes one above -the other, and Sultán Ibrahím said; “Go now with God, who will assist -thee.” He went on board the High Admiral’s ship, Bashdarda, and the -astronomers of the Court having fixed the favourable moment for getting under -weigh, the Commander-in-Chief gave the order to the High Admiral, and at the -same time five hundred clarions sounded; from the Admiral’s ship the shouts of -Allah! allah! pierced the air, and the skies were rent with the noise of muskets -and guns. The shouts and salutes were repeated three times, and the Admiral’s -ship took the lead, the music playing the tune Segáh. Passing the Sinán-koskh -the Commander-in-Chief saluted the Emperor and the Great Vezír, and the other -ships followed like a row of cranes, keeping up such a heavy fire, that the birds of -heaven found themselves so many salamanders in the midst of fire, like Abraham -in the oven of Nimrod. I, poor Evliyá, accompanied this expedition as Chief -Moëzzin of the Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf Páshá, was messmate of Ibrahím<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -Chelebí, Clerk of the Treasury, on board of the Bashdarda, and passed my time -pleasantly eating dates and diavolini (Kotrobunát).</p> - - -<h3><i>Station of Gallipolis.</i></h3> - -<p>The fleet anchored here after a salute fired from the fortress, and repeated by -the whole fleet. The Mussulman victors all went to the arsenal to hasten the -embarkation of the European troops on board of fifty barbaresque vessels, and -on the opposite side in the harbour of Chárdák, the Asiatic troops were also -doing the same. In twenty-four hours every thing was completed, and next day -the fleet weighed anchor again amidst the noise of muskets and guns. We passed -Tenedos (Búzja Ada); ten Firkata were sent on ten miles a-head to keep a good -look out. Their captains were invested with robes of honour, and promised -to be made Begs of the Imperial arsenal (post captains). We passed Tine -(Istendíl) which belonged to the Venetians, who sent presents on board the -Admiral’s ship, but no notice was taken of them, and we sailed by. We passed -Thera (Degirmenlik), an Ottoman island belonging to the khass of the Captain -Páshá, weathered the point of Temashalik (Sunium), passed Athens, the castle -of Termísh in Morea, and stopped at Napoli (di Romania), a strong castle at the -end of a great port, where we took in provisions for the troops of twenty-seven -Rumelian sanjaks; we did the same at Benefshe, which is an open place with no -port; passed Candia, taking no notice, as if we were going to Malta, passed -Cerigo and Cerigotto also belonging to the Venetians, the fortresses of Coron and -Modon, and the island of Borák, a small island near Morea, till we came to -Navarin. This is a large port defended by two castles, one on the shore, the -other on high rocks. Here we came to anchor and discharged the lading of ten -heavy transport ships (Chakálgemí) of the Arsenal, shifting their cargoes of -troops and artillery on to lighter ones. During our stay here, the commanders -of Zante and Cephalonia, Venetian Islands, sent presents of powder and lead to -the Commander-in-Chief, wishing him a happy voyage and success in the expedition; -seeing that every thing was directed against Malta, they returned with -great satisfaction. We took on board here three thousand brave Albanians, and -also took in water, because a great fresh water river disembogues into the sea at -the extremity of this port.</p> - -<p>On the third day the flag was hoisted, the trumpet of departure sounded, and -nine hundred small and large ships left the port. The two captains Karabaták -and Dúrák with ten small Firkata were at the head, as look-out ships, leading -towards Malta, which was thought by the whole of the fleet to be its destination. -At noon the Commander-in-Chief turned round on a sudden, made signals for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -the whole fleet to do the same, and again passed by Cerigo, the Castle of which -now began to light fires, and fire signal guns. At sunset we were before Candia, -and before daybreak the whole fleet anchored opposite the castle of St. Todero on -the north side of the island at the harbour of Súda. Troops and two light guns -(culverines) were disembarked with the necessary ammunition, the castle assailed, -and in less than two hours forced to surrender. At sunrise the Infidels marched out -and were embarked in ships for Cerigo. The ships were now secured in the port, -and large guns placed behind gabions to defend them. The two governors of -Karamán and Adana were left in garrison, and the whole fleet anchored at the -harbour of the Lazaret, close to Canea. The whole army disembarked with their -tents, seventy great guns (Bályemez), forty falconets, and two hundred small -guns (Sháhitop) and encamped out of reach of gun shot. The fleet anchored -in the port of the Lazaret safe against all possible winds, and the Begs (Captains) -of the Barbareses received orders to cruise with seventy Firkata. The Shaikas -and Kara Múrsal also now disembarked their cargoes, and the governor of Sivás -was commanded to watch over the security of the port, which is situated on the -west side of Canea. Praise be to God, it was taken very easily. It is situated sixty -miles distance from Cape Kabájá in Morea, and its conquest as well as that -of St. Todero, was first thought necessary for the facility of passing troops from -Morea. Great batteries were raised and furnished with large guns to protect -the fleet lying in it, meanwhile Firkatas were keeping the open sea at twenty and -thirty miles distance as guardships, (Karaúl Kúllik).</p> - - -<h3><i>Siege of the Fortress of Canea.</i></h3> - -<p>The camp being pitched round the Castle of Canea at a gun-shot’s distance, -and every man having taken his post according to the orders of the Commander-in-Chief, -the janissaries first entered the trenches. The next day the Commander-in-Chief -held a grand review in sight of the Infidels, and in defiance of them, who -were confounded at this show of the Ottoman power. As soon as he had -dismounted at his tent, forty thousand men with shovels and axes began to work -on the trenches at seven points round the fortress. (1) On the south side the -Aghá of the janissaries, in whose company the Commander-in-Chief himself -entered the trenches. (2) The governor of Anatoli, with ten regiments and the -Zagarjí-bashí. (3) The governor of Rúmelí with ten regiments headed by the -Samsúnjí-bashí. (4) The governor of Sivás with five regiments headed by the -Khassekí. (5) On the east side at the silver bulwark, the Barbareses opened -the trenches. (6) On the west side at the golden bulwark, the governor of -Haleb, with three regiments of Zenberekjí. In short, the attack was carried on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -from seven points. The north side bordering on the sea and the port was alone -unable to be attacked by trenches, which were opened on all other points of the -compass. The Infidels having enjoyed peace ever since the conquest of Cyprus, -their artillery and arsenals were in the highest state of perfection. During seven -days and nights they fired forty thousand guns and many hundred thousand -musket-shot; seven thousand men became martyrs being killed in the trenches, -and their property taken possession of by the fiscus. But the Moslím victors -encouraged by the presence and the gifts of the Commander-in-Chief, advanced -with undaunted steadiness, and arrived on the tenth day at the edge of the ditch. -Seven batteries with large guns were battering the walls on seven sides. During -twenty days and nights the fire continued to rage from both sides. The Moslims -at last began to raise mounds of earth on the side of the sand bulwark, which -being perceived by the garrison, they burned the Moslims with shells and -grenades. This way of continuing the siege above ground being found impracticable, -it was carried on by mines under ground. On the west side of the -town, where the Lazaret is established, a mine of three mouths was blown -up, and with it seventy yards of the wall, with all the Infidels upon it, who were -sent through the sky to hell. The Infidels witnessing this artful mining, -imitated it, they passed under the ditch and blew the mounds of earth with a -couple of hundred men into the air; so that the air was obscured by the dust for -more than an hour’s time. The Mussulman victors not caring for this, exhorted -one another, and the volunteers brought in heads and prisoners whom they -caught at the breaches. The Commander rewarded those who brought heads -with fifty, and those who brought prisoners with an hundred ducats, making them -besides a present of the men and distributing ziámets and timárs.</p> - -<p>The Faithful devoting themselves with heart and soul, penetrated sometimes -into the interior of the fortress, from whence they brought heads and prisoners, -and amongst the last even the son of the commanding general. But this day -was a bloody one, which cost many lives.</p> - -<p>One day an Infidel descending on a rope-ladder, came into the Commander-in-Chief’s -tent, and said he had good news to tell him, if he would promise the -safety of his house and family. The Commander-in-Chief granted immediately -what he asked, and promised to give him the command of the Infidels besides. -He then confirmed his promise by an oath, and tied a handkerchief of pardon -round his neck. Then the Infidel said that there were two parties in the castle, -the Greeks who wished to surrender, and the Venetians who wished to defend -themselves to the last man. The latter were assembled on the side of the -harbour, where the fortress had not yet been battered, he advised, therefore, to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span> -disturb them by a battery raised on that side, and to throw into the Greek quarter, -some arrows only, with flattering promises to the Greeks. This advice having -been followed, ten Greeks came, who embraced Islám, and received Mussulman -names. The siege was, however, continued with the same zeal. On the east -side of the harbour a great bastion was raised, from which the high houses -and palaces of the Infidels near the port were battered, and where cries and -lamentations pierced the skies. The same day orders were issued to all Captains -of the Navy, and to the Begs of the Barbareses, to keep a good watch, and twelve -Maúnas were ordered to batter the port, and the sea side of the town. This -raised a great outcry there, but some of the shots injuring the camp, other orders -were issued to the chief gunner of the fleet. The Infidels never relaxing in their -fire and their stratagems, there was no day without a couple of hundred falling -martyrs. It would be too tedious to relate all the memorable events of this siege; -in short, one day the Infidels seeing forty thousand brave men with drawn swords -and heavy shields, ready to assail the walls, hoisted the white flag of surrender, -crying, “Amán, amán, O exquisite family of Osmán!” No regard being paid to -this, and the firing continuing as before, some Captains came out by the breaches, -asking for a respite of ten days. The Commander-in-Chief answered, “You -will walk out to-morrow, or all fall victims to the sword.” This was agreed to. -Some of them remained in the tent of the Commander-in-Chief, some went into -the castle and returned with the answer, that next morning they would all be -ready to surrender. The Janissaries, Sipáhis, Jebejis and Topjis, instantly took -possession of the walls and the artillery, and during the night, the Infidels were embarked -for their cursed country. The next day the Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, -salutes of guns and muskets fired, and those salutes repeated thrice from time to -time during three days. The ships of the Infidels steering eastward to the Castles -of Retimo and Candia, their General when he saw and heard these rejoicings, -when he heard the profession of Islám proclaimed from the belfries, when he saw -the crosses upset and the green banner of Mohammed waving on the spires, -could not bear such a sight, but blinded himself. The whole fleet now entered -the harbour, and messengers were sent to Constantinople with the good news. -Seventy-seven tartanas and galleys, and fifty barbaresque ships, came to an -anchor. All the stores and ammunition were disembarked, and large batteries -raised on the shore to mount the guns on. The troops were occupied in cleansing -the trenches and ditches, and repairing the walls; thus the castle became ten -times stronger than it was before; all the churches were converted into mosques, -and the first Friday prayer performed in the mosque of Sultán Ibrahím. The -streets were adorned with shops and lighted with lamps during the night. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span> -clarions sounded after the prayer was performed, the shouts of Allah pierced -the skies, and a triple salute was fired, the report of which shook not only Rome -and Irak, but the whole of earth and Heaven.</p> - -<p>The sixth day after the conquest of the castle, a fleet of a hundred sail bearing -the Venetian, Tuscan, and Popish flag came to the assistance of it; but when -they saw the port full of the Ottoman fleet, and the ships of the Barbareses -cruising before it, when they saw the belfries turned into minarehs, and the -Crescents in the place of the Crosses, they sighed heavily, “Good-by Canea! -Good-by Canea!” and sailed in despair for Súda. The Ottoman victors found in -the conquered fortress all the slaves and girls of the late Kislar Agassí embarked -on board the galleon of Ibrahím Chelebí, all his precious things, and high-bred -horses; they revenged the blood shed, and turned the Convents of their monks -and nuns into those of Dervishes. The contest at this siege was scarcely so -heavy and bloody as at the sieges of Assov, Eriván and Baghdád, which have been -celebrated by eloquent writers. The Commander-in-Chief sent messengers and -letters to nine towns and fortresses of the island, and to the Rayas in the interior -of the island in the mountains of Assfákia, summoning them to pay tribute, to -surrender to the Sultán the keys of their castles, and to enjoy ease and plenty -under the protection of the Emperor; threatening those who would not comply -with this demand, with the havoc of their lands, slavery of their families, and -death to themselves by the sword. Within seven days came three hundred -deputies from all places and villages in the island to pay obeisance and bring -presents. The rest of the island not having submitted, the Vezírs and Begler-Begs -received orders to send the Ottoman victors to collect the legal tithes. -From seventy to eighty thousand men were immediately dispersed over the seven -hundred and seventy miles of the island, taking booty, day and night, in the ways -of God. Gold, silver, brass vessels, fine boys, and pretty girls, were carried in -immense numbers to the Ottoman camp, where there was such an abundance that -a boy or girl was sold for eighteen piastres. Some thousand men of the army, -seeing such plenty, settled in the island. Kuchúk Hassan Pashá with seventeen -Begler-Begs, seventy Alaï-Begs, and all the Zaims and Timariots, remained at -Canea, besides the garrison of regular troops, consisting of twenty-seven regiments -of janissaries, ten regiments of artillery, ten regiments of armourers, four regiments -of cavalry, and three thousand men, Egyptian troops; altogether -seventy-seventy thousand men. In the castle remained seven thousand seven -hundred Azabs, and forty ships were left for the transport of troops from Menkeshe, -besides fifty firkata manned with an hundred stout lads.</p> - -<p>The Commander-in-Chief, Yússúf, took leave of all the Vezírs and great men,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span> -and weighed anchor with a favourable wind, and sailed for Constantinople. He -passed with a fleet of two hundred sail before Cerigo and Cerigotto, destroyed -the repairs of the Mainotes at the Cape of Maina in Morea, with the Castle of Killí -situated on the same point; passed the Cape of Capospada, and the Castle of -Menkeshí, and came to anchor at Napoli. After a stay of three days a council -was held, and it was resolved to lay waste the Island of Istendil (Tine), belonging -to the Venetians. At the moment the fleet was sailing, an Imperial rescript -arrived from Constantinople congratulating the Commander-in-Chief on his victories, -and rewarding him with an Imperial robe of honour, and a sword and cutlass set -with jewels. The same day the Island of Tine was plundered, but no great booty -found. Its castle being strong and high, the signal of departure was immediately -given, and the southerly wind being favourable, in the course of ten days we -touched at different places, such as Chios, Lemnos, Mitylene, and Tenedos; -these castles were put in repair, and garrisoned with the necessary number of -troops. From Tenedos we arrived at Gallipolis, where we took water, and where -the Commanders received strict orders to be watchful. From hence, in two days -and one night, we reached the Prince’s Islands, in sight of Constantinople, and -next day arrived at the Seraglio point, with such demonstrations of joy as cannot -be expressed. The conqueror of Canea, Yússúf Páshá, kissed the ground before -the Emperor, was decorated with Imperial robes of honour, and offered a -treasure worth that of Egypt, and youths like those of Paradise, besides an -infinite number of presents. But he was afterwards calumniated and killed. -When Sultán Ibrahím saw his body, he said, “how white he was!” and fell a-crying. -He added, “My Yússúf, may those, who have played thee this trick -soon share thy fate!” and, while saying so, he looked at his favourite Jinjí Khojá. -His death caused general complaint and lamentations, and there was but one -voice of sorrow. God’s mercy be upon him!</p> - - -<h3><i>Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá.</i></h3> - -<p>Envious calumniators informed the Emperor, that Yússúf Páshá had secreted -from the treasures of Canea three great tubs of gold, three millions of money, -and a golden column; that he had not given a drop of the ocean nor an atom -of the sun of his treasures to the Emperor. After his death nothing was found, -and the column wrapt up in felt, which had been said to be a golden tree, -was found to be a column of yellow stone, which was afterwards used to support -the oratory of the mosque built by the mother of Mohammed IV. It is a stone -more precious indeed than gold and jewels, because persons afflicted with jaundice -are cured by touching it three times on a Saturday. This is the stone which -caused the death of Yússúf Páshá.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span></p> - -<p>“The servant proposes and God disposes, and the tongues of the people are -the pens of God.” When Sultán Ibrahím disclosed the secret of the expedition -to Yússúf Páshá on his departure, he said, “If thou returnest victorious I’ll -reward thee according to thy merits:” and indeed it happened so, because -the conquest of Canea, an enterprise so difficult, was granted to Yússúf Páshá -before the arrival of the enemy’s fleet by a special favour of God, and no reward -could equal such merit, but the glory of Martyrdom. He was beloved of God, -who first granted him the conquest and then the Martyr’s crown. Praise be to -God that I, poor Evliyá, witnessed such a famous siege, and returned safe to my -native city. I kissed my parents’ hands, who wished me joy on my safe return. -My father said, “The campaign thou hast made now renders my going into -the field superfluous.” I said, “My dear father, you have grown old, you have -been present at seventy battles since Sultán Súleimán’s time. Pray now for -your beloved son, who shall go into battles instead of you.” I kissed his hand, -and he then told me the following story, exhorting me to listen to it with the -ears of my soul.</p> - -<p>“In the year when thou wast born, my son, in the reign of Sultán Ahmed I. a -great assembly of seven hundred Vezírs and great men was held at the Hippodrome -in order to lay the foundation of Sultán Ahmed’s mosque. They dug -from forty to fifty cubits deep, and the walls of the foundations having reached -the level of the earth, the Ulemas and Astronomers were assembled, and with -the prayers and ceremonies usual in similar cases the position of the mihráb -determined. Kalender Páshá was named inspector, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, the -Secretary, and our Khoja (Evliyá’s reading-master) Evliyá Efendí, Imám of the -foundations; the Sheikh of Scutarí, Mahommed Efendí, was named the Sheikh; -Mahmúd Chelebí, Kara Mahmúd Agha, and forty other men with fine voices, the -Moëzzins of the foundations. One day Sultán Ahmed came, and pitched his -tent on that part of the courtyard of the mosque, where there then remained only -a single painted Koshk belonging to the Seraï of Koja Mohammed Páshá. Here -the Sultán gave a feast to all the Vezírs and great men of the capital, which -surpassed even that which was given at the feast of circumcission of Sultán -Ahmed. The assembly having retired, there remained in the Sultán’s tent, only -Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí, Evliyá Efendí my master, Kara Sunbul Alí Efendí, -Ibrahím Efendí the senior of the surgeons, Dervish Omar Gulshení one of the -favourite singers and I, thy poor father, sitting on our heels. The Sultán said -unto us, “If it please God this mosque shall be finished, and be a fine praying -place, but it requires to be well endowed.” Evliyá and Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutarí said, “My gracious Emperor, undertake a military expedition, and then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -devote the revenues of the conquered land to your new built mosque, as your -ancestor Súleimán did, who having in person conquered Rodos, Stancio, and -different other islands, devoted their revenues to his mosque, which is, therefore, -the best endowed of all the Imperial mosques. If your Majesty should undertake -an expedition against Creta (Kiríd), you would protect the passage of Ottoman -merchants and pilgrims from the ships of the Infidels. The senior of the surgeons, -Ibrahím, and Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari said a Fátihah for this good intention, -the seven prayers of which were repeated by all present, who finished it by -saying, ‘If it please God our prayer shall be granted.’</p> - -<p>“Sultán Ahmed then said, ‘But, learned gentlemen, we are at peace with the -Venetians, is it decent for a Shehin-shah (king of kings) to encroach on treaties of -peace? Under what pretext shall we break it, particularly now, when Anatoli is -kept in rebellion by Kara Yazijí, Saíd Arab, Kalender-oghlí and Jennet-oghlí, -against whom my Vezír Murad Lálá is marching? How shall I then think of the conquest -of Candia?’ Evliyá answered, ‘My Emperor, on the third day all the rebels -shall be beaten, and you shall receive the good news on the twelfth, they shall -pass away like a torrent; Murad Páshá shall fill wells with their dead bodies, and -obtain in history by this deed the name of Murad Páshá the well-maker (Kúyújí).’ -This prediction was accomplished by the news that Murad Páshá, had filled all the -wells near Haleb and Azez with the bodies of the rebels. Mahmúd Efendí of -Scutari availed himself of this opportunity to remind the Emperor of the project of -the Cretan war, and suggested to him, first to send an embassy to the Prince of -Venice to ask that he should give up the island of Creta. Sultán Ahmed, being -pleased with this idea, sent Kúrd-Chaúsh, a good and eloquent speaker, with -presents, as ambassador to Venice. He made great haste, and at the end of seven -days arrived at Venice, making his public entrance on the eighth, and read his -letters in public council; the Senate consented to the demand, and letters were -made out, with which Kúrd-Chaúsh was sent back; having kissed the ground -before the Emperor, the letters were read by the Interpreter in presence of -Mahmúd Efendí of Scutari, Evliyá, Sunbul Alí, Ibrahím, Togháni, Ismail Efendí -the Commentator on the Mesneví, Júnúbí the Sheikh of the Mevlevís at Kássím -Páshá, Dervish Omer Gulshení, Guzeljí Gulábí, Kúzú Alí Aghá, Abdí Aghá, and -of me, thy poor father, in the following form and tenor, ‘You have asked from -me the Principe, your most humble servant, the island of Creta, with six hundred -thousand inhabitants, seven hundred and seventy villages, and of seven hundred -and seventy miles circumference, with seven mines of gold, silver and other metals, -which we are ready to give.’ At these words all those who were present read the -Fátihah, and the Mohammedan shouts (Allah! Allah!) rent the air.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span></p> - -<p>“The end of the letter said, ‘But we poor fellows, giving to you, great -Monarch, an island as rich as that of Creta, we beg of you the favour to make us a -present of the ports of Acra, Saida, Beirút, and of the old seat of our religion, -Jerusalem. It is only for this purpose we can cede to you the island of Creta, and -it would be more reasonable to deliver your hereditary countries from the rebels, -who infest it, than to form such strange demands:—Our compliments to you!’ -Ahmed hearing this answer was deeply afflicted, and began to cry. Mahmúd -Efendí said, ‘Why should your Majesty be afflicted; they began by saying, that -they were ready to give up the island, it is God who has dictated these words to -them, according to which they shall be obliged to yield the island.’ A Fátihah was -said, and the Mahommedan shouts (Allah!) repeated. Then they said, ‘If it -please God, it shall most certainly be conquered,’ and saying so, they changed the -conversation. When this letter was again read at the Diván, the Emperor -happened to be in his innermost garden at the place called Chemensoffa, conversing -with the abovenamed learned and virtuous gentlemen. At this moment -the gate of the innermost Harem opened, and the Kislar-agassí walked out, -followed by seven Princes, who kissed the hands of the Emperor, and then of the -Sheikhs, who were with him, and the Sultán said, ‘Gentlemen, the Princes my -sons, are your most humble servants.’ He then ordered that they should play -before him, to dissipate the melancholy which the answer of the Venetians had -caused. They played ball, and Prince Osmán, the strongest and stoutest of them, -was superior to the rest. Coming near his father’s throne, he asked him, ‘My -Osmán! wilt thou conquer Creta?’ The Prince answered, ‘What shall I do with -Creta? I will conquer the land of the white Russian girls, and shed blood there.’ -Saying so, he continued to play; Evliyá Efendí, praise to God, the innocent boy -could not reach the meaning of the Emperor’s words. Mahmúd observed, that he -had understood well the word Creta, but that there was something mysterious in -his answer about the white Russian girls. Now Prince Osmán came up pursuing -his brother Mohammed even under the throne, where Mohammed sheltered himself, -and having crept forth again, the ball, which Osmán threw at him, touched -his gilt turban, and hurt his neck so that blood was flowing, and he turned giddy.</p> - -<p>“Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Look Mohammed, Osmán is thy brother, and yet he -has hurt thee, this is the course of the world: strike him in your turn.’ He wiped -his blood off, and having seated him at the foot of the throne, he asked him, -‘Will you conquer Creta, Mohammed?’ Mohammed said, ‘I will, but my brother -Osmán sheds my blood; if it is not me, another Mohammed will finish the conquest -begun by me.’ The Senior of the Surgeons, Ibrahím said, ‘Praise be to -God, what secrets are revealed to-day! but nobody yet understands them.’ Now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> -the Princes continued to play at ball; Bayazíd and Súleimán were chasing each -other, when all at once, Prince Murad sallied forth from the place called the black -cypress, and threw a ball at them, which hurt them both, so that blood dropped -from their noses. Sultán Ahmed said, ‘My Murad, why dost thou beat thy -brethren so.’ The Prince replied, ‘It was not my intention, but such is the play -of the world, I was obliged to do it because they gained upon me, and were going -to take my place!’ Omer Gulshení said, ‘There is also some mystery in that.’ -Now came Prince Ibrahím in a ruby-coloured dress: Sultán Ahmed asked him, -‘Where have you been my Ibrahím?’ ‘I,’ said he, ‘have taken the ablution of -martyrdom, and am now come to wrestle and play with all my brethren.’ He -entered wildly and threw a ball at Sultán Osmán’s head, so that he knocked off his -turban and set him crying. Prince Murad now threw a ball at Ibrahím, which he -received undaunted, feigned to direct his ball at Bayazíd, but turned round -in a moment, and threw it at Murad with such violence, that he was for some -time senseless. Ibrahím now ran to his father’s throne, sat at the foot of it, -and said, ‘Have I not aimed a good ball at Murad,’ and then fell to indelicate play. -Murad was crying on the ground, saying, ‘I had rather died, than have been -beaten in that way by Ibrahím!’ The play continuing, to the surprise of all the -beholders, Murad again pursued Ibrahím, and threw the ball at him, which -he received as boldly as the first time, and retreated under the throne, from whence -he then issued without his turban and in a state of undress. Sultán Ahmed -caught hold of his ear, and said, ‘Wilt thou conquer Creta, and make of it an -endowment for my mosque for Mecca and Medina.’ The Prince said, ‘If God -assists me, and helps me, in God’s name, and if it pleases God, my son Yússúf -shall conquer it under Yússúf the Prophet’s favour!’ All who were present now -said a Fátihah that this might happen, and Sultán Ahmed said, ‘Now, how curious -it is, that I am fallen into melancholy since the Venetian letter has been read, -that wishing to divert myself with my children’s play, they got bloody necks and -noses, and made me more melancholy than before, till Ibrahím has at once chased -away my spleen by saying that he will conquer Creta by his son.’ God’s mercy -on Sultán Ahmed! All that had been foreshewn in this play, really happened.</p> - -<p>“1. Sultán Osmán who hurt his brother Mohammed’s neck, ordered him to be -executed when going to Khotyn.</p> - -<p>“2. Sultán Osmán, who was hurt by Ibrahím’s ball in his groin, died after his -unsuccessful return from Khotyn, at the Seven Towers, when one Piniál tortured -him till he died by compression of the scrotum.</p> - -<p>“3. The two Princes, Bayazíd and Súleimán, overtaken by Murad at the black -cypress, were strangled in the same place, the blood dropping from their noses, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> -Sultán Murad’s order in the year 1045, when he sent Beshír Aghá to Constantinople -with the news of the conquest of Eriván. They were buried in their father -Ahmed’s tomb, twenty-one years after this play had happened in their father’s -presence.</p> - -<p>“4. The ball received by Ibrahim from Murad foreboded that Ibrahím would -be, as he was, Murad’s successor.</p> - -<p>“5. Ibrahím’s indelicate play at the foot of the throne, showed the luxury of -his reign passed in weddings and pleasure parties.</p> - -<p>“6. His having then said; ‘woe to my cullies,’ was the forerunner of the -infamous disease of which he died.</p> - -<p>“7. The reply given by Ibrahím, when coming forth from beneath his father’s -throne, and saying, that he would conquer Creta with his son Yússúf, is to be -understood of Yússúf Pashá the Commander-in-chief of the expedition to Canea.</p> - -<p>“8. God knows my son (continued Evliyá’s father) whether the name of -Yússúf may not be applied to Ibrahím’s son, who shall finish the conquest of -Creta begun by his father.</p> - -<p>“My son, all these mysteries I witnessed in Sultán Ahmed’s presence, and have -waited ever since for the conquest of Creta promised by Sultan Ibrahím to his -father, and now fulfilled accordingly. I, thy poor father, was present at the prayers -then said at the suggestion of this conquest, and thou my son hast witnessed the -fulfilling of it. If it please God, thou shalt witness also its entire conquest.”</p> - -<p>It was in this manner that my father, Dervish Mohammed, the chief of the -goldsmiths at Constantinople, related the story of the Princes. God’s mercy upon -him! As some thousand descriptions of the siege of Canea exist, I would not expatiate -too much on this subject, but have related what I witnessed in a plain way.</p> - -<p>Jowánjí Kapújí Mohammed Páshá the great Vezír being deposed, he was named -Commander-in-chief at Creta, and the Vezírat given to the Defterdár Sáleh Páshá, -who bestowed on his brother, Murteza Páshá, the governorship of Bude with three -tails; and on Ibrahim Chelebí, who had been Khazinedár, the governorship of -Baghdád. The son of Sáleh Páshá, Chelebí Mohammed, known by the name of -the hanged Defterdár-zadeh Mohammed Páshá, was made Aghá of the janissaries, -with the character of Vezír, but, as he did not accept of it, he was sent as Commander-in-chief -to Erzerúm. I, poor Evliyá, was appointed clerk at the custom-house -of Erzerúm, Moëzzin and companion to this Páshá. He was a man of -agreeable conversation, great acquirements in all sciences, generous, brave, a poet -and statesman. He bestowed on me rich presents, and I prepared my tents for -the journey to Erzerúm. I was invested with a robe of honour (caftán) in Sultán -Ibrahím’s presence. He said unto the Páshá, giving him the Imperial rescript,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> -“Thou art my absolute Vezír and Commander against the Persians; if they should -become rebels, all the army of Anatolia as far as Eriván is under thy command.” -He gave him five purses, fifty mules and as many camels for the journey, a -splendid tent, and two sable pelisses. We passed under Sultán Ibrahím’s blessing -to Scutari, where we pitched our tents at the place called Agháchairí. The same -day, Cherkess Derzí Mustafa, one of the Imperial armsbearers (Silahshor), was -sent express to Erzerúm to Malatialí Silihdár Súleimán Páshá. During our stay -at Scutari, the treasurer of the Páshá Dilber Chelebí was deposed by an Imperial -firmán, and his place given to Alí Aghá one of the relations of the Páshá; we -remained a week at Scutari, and then, on the first day of Rejeb, set out on our -journey for Erzerúm.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_ERZERUM">JOURNEY TO ERZERUM.</h2></div> - - -<p>Having remained a month in Scutari, the buildings of which town have been -minutely described in our first volume; the news arrived that the Mossellem -(substitute of the Páshá) had happily taken possession of the governorship; the -Páshá immolated victims, and everybody rejoiced, because the principal reason -for conferring this governorship on Defterdár-zadeh was the rumour which prevailed, -that Abaza Páshá the famous rebel, whom Sultán Murad had spared, -contrary to the wishes of the troops, had returned from his travels in Africa and -India, but most happily Súleimán Páshá, the governor of Erzerúm (predecessor -of Abaza) killed this pretender and sent his head to Constantinople, and the -Mosellem, Mustafa Aghá, took possession of the governorship. We set out from -Scutari in the early part of Sha’abán, and arrived at the end of seven hours march -at Pendík, a great village on the seabord, it belonging to the foundation of Kirechjíbashí -at Scutari. Its numerous gardens supply the Capital with vegetables. Here -our master received from the Great Vezír Sáleh Páshá, ten purses, ten horses, and -a great number of other valuable presents. From hence the quarter-master -(Konakjí) and chief of the cellar (Kilárjí), with the inspector of the kitchen -(Mutbakhemíní), and the purveyor at market (Bazára giden), led the van with -five hundred men and a tail.</p> - - -<h3><i>Gebíze.</i></h3> - -<p>This was formerly a large town. At the time when Sídí Battál besieged Constantinople, -a great convent existed at Constantinople, within the gate of Sílívrí,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span> -at the place now called the mosque of Koja Mustafa Páshá. Harún-ur-rashíd, -built a fortress here and garrisoned it with three thousand men, in order to keep -the infidels in check. The inhabitants of Gebíze having killed some men belonging -to Sídí Battál, who commanded the garrison of the said fortress, he laid the town -of Gebíze in ruins, and retired to Malatia; traces of this havoc are still visible. -It was conquered by Mohammed I., who destroyed the castle, that it might not -be a refuge for the infidels; but Sultán Mohammed II. rebuilt it after the conquest -of Constantinople. It is now a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers in the -sanjak of Koja Ilí. Mustafa Páshá, who built the bridge which bears his name in -Rúmelí, built a mosque here, whose administrator (Mutevelí) is at the same time -commanding officer of the place. It lies an hour’s distance from the sea, at the -top of a dry mountain; there are about one thousand houses with gardens, in the -ancient style, three mosques, the largest of which covered with lead, outshines -the mosques of the Vezírs at Constantinople; it was built by Mustafa Páshá, the -builder of the bridge called by Sultán Súleimán, the bridge of the illiberal -(Namerd), who when governor of Egypt had the finest stones cut in plates to -adorn this mosque, and made a stone candelabrum of them, which has no equal in -the world. The stones came direct from Egypt to the landing-place of Daríjí, -where they were disembarked. The interior of the mosque is lined with marble -and granite to the height of three men, which is not to be seen in any other -mosque in the capital. The minber (pulpit), mihráb (altar), and mahfil (oratory) -of the Moëzzins are of most excellent workmanship, which is impossible to -describe to those who have not seen it. It was built by the architect Hassám, -the first assistant to the architect Koja Sinán, who showed his skill here most -minutely. The windows on the four sides are composed of small painted glass, -which in sunshine illuminates the mosque with a most delicious light, therefore it -is that you read on the middle vault the verse of the Koran, God is the light of -Heaven. The interior of the cupola is adorned with circles of lamps and a -great number of suspended decorations. The Egyptian carpets on the floor vie -with those of Isfahan. The pulpit of the preacher (Kursí) is inlaid with pearl-shell. -Outside of the walls is a delicious garden, where flowers and odoriferous -herbs fill the air and brain with perfumes, and nightingales enrapture with their -warbling notes. The mosque has but one gate opposite the altar; on the -threshold is written the chronograph in the writing of Kara Hissárí Hossein, and in -the mosque seventy Koráns are kept, each of which is worth an Egyptian treasure. -A copy of Yakút Mostea-assemí, like that which is seen here on the left of the -altar, is not to be found elsewhere, except it be at the mosque of Sultán Ahmed at -Constantinople. On both sides of the gate are six cupolas supported by as many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span> -columns, and the cupola immediately over the gate is the seventh. The Harem or -courtyard, as spacious as those of imperial mosques, is adorned with trees, the -mináreh, with one gallery, is well proportioned. Close to the mosque is a Caravánseraï, -affording accommodation for three thousand men, and two thousand -horses, with a stable appropriated for camels. In the dining-room (dar-ul-ita’ám), -old and young men and women dine in plenty; and at the Caravánseraï, every -evening, every fire-place is furnished with a dish of soup, a loaf of bread, a candle, -and a bag of forage for every horse, ass, mule or camel. A bath is attached to it, -covered with lead like all the other buildings of this foundation. Besides this -Caravánseraï there are forty large and small kháns, and one hundred and eighty -shops, all the work of Sinán; the mosque in the market is an old simple building; -the houses are all faced with red bricks, the water of the wells is a little thick, but -the air is good.</p> - -<p>We advanced from hence five hours towards the east to the Castle of Helke or -Herke, conquered by Mohammed I. with considerable loss of men. It is a nice -small castle, of immense stones, built on the seashore, on a cliff between two -vallies. Its gate opens to the north and has no houses within. The district -belongs to the sanjak of Koja Ilí. At the end of eight hours journey along the -seashore, we arrived at Isnikmíd (Nicomedia), which has been already minutely -described in our former journey. After a day’s rest we again started and came, at -the end of six hours march, to Sabánja, called so from Sabánjí Koja, who first -cleared the thick woods here by the plough. In Súleimán’s time it was cultivated, -and Sárí Rostem Páshá founded a khán here with one hundred and seventy fireplaces, -a pleasant mosque and bath covered with lead, and about one thousand houses -faced with brick built by Koja Sinán. The administrator of these endowments of -Rostem Páshá, is at the same time the first public officer of the place. Besides its -white cherries, it is renowned for its white bread, Súmún, which is baked in a -shop underneath the bath, and which keeps its flavour and does not become -mouldy for the space of six days. It has often been sent by couriers to the Sháh -of Persia, has arrived fresh, and obtained general approbation. Its good qualities -are due to the water.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Lake of Sabánja.</i></h3> - -<p>Its circumference is twenty miles, and seventy-six villages adorn its shores. -The people who drink of its water are of ruddy complexion, and the products of -the land are abundant; there are no vineyards, but a great number of gardens. -On the borders of the lake there are melons and water-melons of such a size that two -make an ass-load. On the lake are from seventy to eighty kaiks and boats, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span> -are employed in the passage from village to village, and for the transport of wood. -There are a great number of most delicious fish. Its depth is twenty fathoms, the -water is clear and brilliant, and excellent for washing without soap. It is this water -which gives a whiteness resembling cotton to the bread Súmúní. On the east -side of the lake, at two hours distance, passes the river Sakaria, which disembogues -into the Black Sea in the province of Koja Ilí at the place called Irva; it -would require but little spirit of enterprise to unite the lake with the sea, by means -of this river, a branch of which goes down to the salt-marshes of Nicomedia. As -early as the reign of Mohammed III. a great number of workmen were employed -in establishing a communication between the gulf of Nicomedia and the lake of -Sabánja, but the undertaking was given up at the request of the inhabitants. If -the Sakaria were united with this lake, and the lake with the gulf of Nicomedia, this -town would be quite an inland port; the timber and wood might be brought down -to Bolí, and it would cost no more than five aspers the quintal. God make it easy!</p> - -<p>We marched to the eastward six hours, along the seashore, through thick forests, -called “Ocean of trees,” and crossed the Sakaria by a wooden bridge; this river -issues from the mountain Chifteler, passes through Koja Ilí, and goes into the -Black Sea near Irva.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Station of Khandak-bazárí.</i></h3> - -<p>A small place belonging to the territory of Koja Ilí, with woods, mountains, -gardens, a mosque, a khán, a bath, a market, a judge appointed with one hundred -and fifty aspers, an officer of the janissaries, and a Súbashí. In the woody marsh -here, is a long wooden bridge (causeway) famous all over Arabia and Persia. We -marched twelve hours further on through thick forests, and came to Dúzje-bazár, -the first place belonging to Bolí, in a mountainous region, with a mosque and two -kháns founded by Shemsí Páshá, who also paved the road. In the neighbourhood -are many villages.</p> - -<p>West of this place on the side of Akcheshár, and two hours beyond the river Melán -is the place of Úskúbí, a khass of the territory of Bolí, with a mosque, a khán, and -a bath. Nine hours further on we reached Bolí, conquered in Osmán’s name by -Sonkor Baí Shemsí, to whom and to whose descendants it was given as hereditary -property (Ojáklik). Its castle was built by the Greek Commander of Brússa, it is -a small ruined castle, on a high mountain without vestige of cultivation. According -to the division of Sultán Mohammed II. it is the seat of a sanjak. The khass -of the Beg amounts to three hundred thousand one hundred and twenty-two aspers, -fourteen ziamets, and fifty-five timárs, with the Jebellis two thousand eight hundred -swords. The judge is appointed with three hundred aspers: five districts belong<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> -to it, viz. the district round the town of Bolí, that of Gokjesúí, that of Sázák -Kerde to the left of Bolí, that of Túrtúr-diván, and that of Yaflije. The annual -revenue is five thousand piastres, and those of the Beg fifteen thousand. But the -judge and Beg are obliged to be very cautious, because if they commit the -smallest injustice, the Rayas can reach Constantinople in three days, and complain -of the oppressor. There is an officer of the janissaries, of the Sipahís, and a -Nakíb-ul-íshráf. Though the inhabitants are Turcomans, yet there is a great -number of merchants. It is a large town of thirty-four quarters and as many -mosques, three thousand well covered houses, some of which are faced with bricks; -some seraïs and mosques. In the market-place is that of Mustafa Páshá and of -Ferhád Páshá, much frequented; they are both the work of Koja Sinán the great -architect: the best and most pleasant bath is that of Shemsí: seven kháns, and -seven fountains, all founded by Shemsí Páshá; four hundred elegant shops, but -no college or school of tradition, as far as I know of; but there are seventy schools -for boys, and more than two hundred of whom know the Korán by heart. The book -Mohammedieh is much read here; they have also story-tellers who recite moral -maxims (Oghúz). The mildness of the air contributes to the beauty of the inhabitants. -The women wear Ferrájís and large head-dresses, they are very -decent and modest ladies. There are a great number of gardens and vineyards. -Of its eatables and products the cherries are the most renowned. The water-cans -of fir-tree refresh those who drink out of them like the living spring; these cans -are called Akasik and Podúch. The inhabitants for the most part are merchants. -The surrounding forests being composed of fir-trees, the inhabitants live by cutting -and making planks of them, which are much esteemed at Constantinople. Two -journies to the west from this place is the landing-place of Akcheshár; those of -Ereglí, Bartín, and Hissárogí, also belong to the sanjak of Bolí. The hotbath -lies to the south, on the outside of the town; amidst the gardens is a small hotbath, -extremely hot and particularly useful against the itch. It purifies the stomach -and cleanses the body. People of all degrees flock to this hotbath on waggons.</p> - - -<h3><i>Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí.</i></h3> - -<p>The convent of Yúzghád Baba near the hotbath. We marched twelve hours -to the east, through cultivated villages to Kerde, the seat of a Súbashí subordinate -to Bolí; a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers. The town consists of a -thousand wooden and brick-built houses in a large valley, nine quarters, and -eleven mosques, besides the Mesjíds; three convents, three kháns, two hundred -shops, and seven coffee-houses. The knife-cutlers and tanners of Kerde are renowned -for the knives and Safien of this place. The air is pleasant, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> -the inhabitants healthy; they are mostly students eager for information (Súkhte -Thalebí). It is a common saying that Kerde is famous for its thieves, its tanners, -and its winter, which is compared to that of Erzerúm; the inhabitants are a set of -lively stout Turks. At the four points of the compass, and particularly on the -south towards Kánghrí, are cultivated districts inhabited by forty or fifty thousand -Turks. The names of the districts are, Kizíl-úzú, Alaja-úzú, Aleh-diván, -Bir-diván, Ikí-diván, Uch-diván, and so on to seven Diváns, all in the -mountains. The name of Diván given to these districts originated in the time -of Ertoghrúl, who, being named Beg by Ala-ud-dín the Prince of the Seljúk -family, granted to the Infidels, whose districts he conquered, the privilege of -kettle-drums. The name is thus preserved in seven districts, whose inhabitants -are a rebellious people, speaking a peculiar language of their own.</p> - -<p>From Kerde we travelled to the eastward for the space of eight hours, through -cultivated villages, to the village of Bayander in the district of Bolí, a jurisdiction -of one hundred and fifty aspers. The conquest of these villages situated amongst -steep mountains cost much blood to Osmán. Here are three hundred covered -houses, a khán where every passenger is allowed to stay, and receives wood, -straw and water, gratis. We travelled thence through a straight, called Hamámlí -Bogház, and came with a thousand difficulties at the end of nine hours to the place -Jerkesh, the seat of a Súbashí in the sanjak of Kánghrí. Here is a judge with one -hundred and fifty aspers, an officer of the janissaries, and Sipáhis. The town consists -of three hundred houses, a mosque, a bath and from forty to fifty shops. Mustafa -Páshá, the sword-bearer to Sultán Murad IV., built a khán here of fifty fire-places, -and one hundred shops, but died before it was finished. Once a week a great -market is held here. Seven hours further on is the village of Karajalar, a ziámet -in the jurisdiction of Kánghrí, three hundred houses of poor but very obstinate -Turks; they will sell a trunk of a tree forty times over, putting it in the water -every night, so that you may be compelled to lay out ten aspers in brushwood -to set it on fire. A traveller marked one of these trunks by fixing a nail in it, -and when he returned three years afterwards from the siege of Eriván, they -gave him the very same trunk, which he had tried in vain to burn three years -before. Thus they will sell a trunk forty times, and praise it as being forty years -old. They also trade in different small articles, particularly in girdles, for which -Karajalar is renowned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání.</i></h3> - -<p>Habíb was born at Ortakoí near Nikde, and is buried here. He died a Sheikh -of the Beirámí in the reign of Mohammed II. Hamza Efendí was one of his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> -disciples. We left Karajalar, and after nine hours walk, we came to Kojhissár a -jurisdiction of Kánghrí. Its castle was conquered in the year 708 by Osmán, -and destroyed in order that it should no longer afford shelter to the Infidels. -Nine hours further on, we reached the town of Tússia, conquered by Mohammed I, -the seat of a Súbashí, and of a judge appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers. -The public officers are a commander of the janissaries (Serdár), an officer of the -Sipáhís (Kiaya-yerí), a Muftí and Nakíb; though it is a Turkish town, yet there -is a great number of learned divines. The town is situated on an elevation, and -consists of three thousand wooden houses faced with brick, there are eleven -quarters, twenty-one mosques, besides the mesjíds, seven kháns, three hundred -and forty shops, and a Bezestán with an iron gate. The Kúzlí and Leblebí -Halwa (two sorts of sweetmeats) of the place, are famous. The air is heavy; the -inhabitants are Turks, but very kind to strangers. Outside the town in a fine -meadow is the tomb of Sheat Baba Sultán, to which pilgrimages are performed.</p> - -<p>Our road now led for eight hours, amongst the mountains along the border -of the Kizil Irmák (Red river) when we arrived at the village of Háj Hamza, the -companion and disciple of Habíb Karamání; this village was his birth-place: there -remains only an ancient mosque on the great road, the other houses are in ruins. -It is on the banks of the Kizil Irmák, the opposite shore of which is laid out in -elegant gardens. The Kizil Irmák issues from the mountains of Churúm and -enters the Black Sea near the village of Báfra, where it forms a cascade, the noise -of which alarms men like the rolling of thunder; the river rushes on with great -impetuosity, and is not navigable. Its colour is red both in winter and summer; -it is a cruel water, for, in attempting to cross to the opposite shore on -horseback I was upset with my horse in the middle of it, and saved with difficulty -by getting hold of a willow. We left Hájí Hamza and continued our road to -the eastward among the mountains and along the Kizil Irmák. The road winds -along the rocks at the base of the high mountain called Sárímáshiklí, so that on -the right side are the cliffs, and on the left a precipice, at the bottom of which -flows the Kizil Irmák, which in some places must be crossed. After eight hours -march we came to the Castle of Osmanjík. Some say that Osmán was born -at this place, and the castle built by his successors. In the year 795 it was -taken out of the hands of the Turks by Ilderím Bayazíd. It is the seat of a -Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Chúrúm, and has a judge with a salary of one -hundred and fifty aspers appointed to it; there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but -no Muftí or Nakíb. There are few distinguished inhabitants, but a great -number of gardens. You cross the Kizil-Irmák by a bridge to the castle, it is -of a strong architecture, no more than eight hundred paces in circumference,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> -with an iron gate. As it is situated so amazingly high I did not see the interior, -but only the outer town or suburb, consisting of a thousand old Tátár houses -covered with planks and earth, there are seven quarters and as many mosques, -three kháns, and a small bath, the water of which is drawn from a well supplied -by the Kizil Irmák. On three sides of the town is sandy ground. Raisins are -very sweet here on account of the heat of the soil. In the sand grows a plant -called Kabre (Capers) which preserved in vinegar is in great use. The poor and -almost all the inhabitants are Dervishes of the order of Hají-Begtásh, because -one of their principal Saints is buried on the west side of the town on an elevated -spot.</p> - - -<h3 class="hang"><i>Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the -Dynasty of the Sheep.)</i></h3> - -<p>He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán -Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a convent, a -meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï with kitchen and cellar. -All these establishments are covered with lead, which with the golden crescents -on them dazzle the eyes of beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen -for the poor) is smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, -I went to visit this place of pilgrimage; I kissed the threshold, saying, “Es-selám -aleik,” and entered the tomb, where I read the Korán, thanking God for the grace -he had granted me to visit it. The cupola is perfumed with musk and amber, -which is very agreeable to the senses of visitors, on whom the keepers of the -mausoleum also sprinkle rose-water. The preacher and the other Dervishes -Begtáshí who watch and pray at the tomb, said prayers on the head of me, poor -Evliyá, wishing me a happy journey, with good sight, and perfect health and -happiness in both worlds. The Dervishes all uttered the Mohammedan shout -(Allah!) and read a Fátihah. When the Sheikh covered my head with his cap, I -felt a wind blowing on both my ears, and my eyes were lighted up like Arab -torches. Since the shipwreck which I had suffered in the Black Sea, swimming -naked for three days and nights, my sight had suffered cruelly, and was only -restored by this head-dress (the Crown of felicity) being put on my head. I then -conversed with all the poor of the convent, and dined with them, and I have -ever since kept the symbols of Dervishship, which I received at the Convent, viz. -the habit (Khirka); the carpet (Sejáde;) the standard (A’alem); the drum -(Tabl Kúdúmí); the halter (Pálehenk); the stick (Assa); and the head-dress or -crown, (Táj).</p> - -<p>Inside of the cupola are different inscriptions by the visitors, to which I added<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> -one of my own composition which suddenly occurred to me. The name of Koyún -Baba was given to this Saint, because when he came from Khorassán in Hají -Begtásh’s company, he bleated like a sheep once in twenty-four hours, which was -the signal for prayer. The Dervishes of the order of Begtásh are generally in -bad repute, but those of this convent are indeed meek like sheep, devout, pious, -praying people, and in all my travels in Rúm, Arabia, and Persia, I met nowhere -a more worthy convent.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh.</i></h3> - -<p>A great Saint renowned for many miracles. The bridge, a work of Bayazíd II. -is a marvellous pile of building of nineteen arches, each arch gives an idea of the -rainbow, of the galaxy, of the girdle of Divine Power, or of the Ták Kosra. Its -length, from one end to the other, is four hundred and fifty paces; and although -the river was so rapid, the architect built it straight as the bridge of Sirát (over -which souls are to pass on the day of the last Judgment). We halted here for -a day, then again crossing the bridge, and marching towards the west, amidst -frightful mountains, we arrived at the small pass of Direglibíl; which, if one man -only ascends to the top of the rock, and rolls stones down, he may defend -against a thousand men. It is known in all Asia, and called Diregli-bíl (the pass -with trees), because the mountain being excavated in many places, and threatening -to fall down, the rocks are supported by trees, which were placed there by well-meaning -people. Here our gracious lord the Páshá descended from his horse, and -taking some of the stones out of the road, which encumbered it, himself threw -them down the precipice; this example was instantly followed by the whole suite, -four hundred men, who dismounting, cleared the road of the stones, shouting Allah, -with the clarions sounding. After nine hours march from Osmánjik, we came to -the village Hájíkoï, the frontier of the sanjak of Amasia, a ruined village, with a -khán in ruins, though it is very well situated for cultivation. Six hours further on -we reached the field of Márziván, and the village of Kerkiráz, belonging to -Amasia, with sixty villages, a mosque, and khán, also falling into ruins. At the end -of eight hours we came to the mountain town of Amasia, which is said to have -been built by the Amalekites, and, according to others, by Ferhád, the mountain -cutter. In the year 476 (1083) it was conquered by Sultán Melek Ghází, of the -Dánishmend family. The princes of Azerbeiján laid siege to it more than once, -without being able to take it. From the hands of the Dánishmend family it -passed into those of the Seljúk. It was then conquered by Sultan Ilderím, who -thus prevented its falling into the hands of Timúr. He then made his son Issa -Chelebi governor, and coins were struck, which bear the inscription of Amasia, of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> -the purest silver, which is found in three mines here. At the division of the -empire by Sultan Mohammed II, Amasia is described as the seat of a Beg. It -has sometimes been given as Arpalik to Vezírs of three tails. According to the -Kanún, its khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets, and -forty-two timárs; it has an Alaï Beg and Cheri-bashí. The Zaims and Timáriots, -with the Jebellí, amount to three thousand men; the judge has three hundred -aspers a day. The districts (Náhie) are those of Aine-bazár, Kildighán, Aktágh, -and Kafála; the jurisdictions those of Koprí, Samara, Zeitún, Gumish, Búlák, -Merzifún, Kerkerár, Ládik, Veraï, and Zenún-abád. The annual revenue of the -judge is valued at seven thousand piastres, and those of the Páshá at seventy -thousand piastres. Five Súbashis are attached to the khass of the Pásha, viz., -Shehrbáh-bazár, Weraï, Aine-bazárí, Aktágh, and Súliova. Its magistrates are, -the Sheikh-ul-Islám, the Nakíb-ul-ishráf, the Serdár of the Janissaries, and the -Kiayayerí of the Sipahis. There are many learned divines and rich merchants.</p> - - -<h3><i>Form and size of Amasia.</i></h3> - -<p>Its towers, crowning the height of the mountains are always veiled with clouds, -and it is only at noon that the spires of the mosques, and the roofs of the houses -are visible. Its circumference is nine thousand and sixty paces. In form it is a -pentagon, extremely strong, worthy of being a work of Ferhád, with forty-one -towers, and eight hundred battlements altogether. The number of the houses is -not known to me. There are magazines, cisterns, and a road cut in the rock, -leading down to the water, called Chapán Yolí, of three thousand and seven steps. -It has no market-place (Charshú), or market (Bazár). There are four iron gates -looking to the east. In the castle is a mosque built by Sultán Ilderím, and a marvelously -deep dungeon, resembling the pit of hell; and seventy cannons, but of no -great calibre, as it is not a frontier fortress. This castle has six wonderful caverns, -where the rich inhabitants hid their valuable effects in the time of the Anatolian -rebellions of Kara Yazijí, and Kara Sáid.</p> - -<p>Timúr besieged this fortress with an innumerable army for the space of seven -months, and was obliged to retire in confusion. Though it is situated in the midst -of the province, yet a commander (Dizdár) and a garrison is appointed, lest rebels -should gain possession of it. The lower castle is built on the banks of the river -Túzánlí, a small castle, whose circumference is not known to me. It has three -gates, the first opens towards the Kiblah, Karánlik Kapú; the second Ma’adenos -Kapú, looks in the same direction; and the third, Meidán Kapú, to the west; -from whence a great bridge leads to Gok-medresse, on the opposite side of the -town. The gate Serkíz leads over a wooden bridge to the mosque of Gháríblar.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> -The number of mosques, palaces, and houses are six hundred. The river Túzánlí, -which passes through the town, issues from the mountains of the same name above -Tokát, passes by Eskí, Aine-bazár, Kargol, the castle of Túrhál, Chengellí-bíl, -Sárikúsún, the bridge of Davíkaví, Chapán, through the pass of Ferhád to Amasia, -where it joins the river Chekerek, opposite the great stone bridge. This river -springs from the lake of Ladek, comes from Súliova, and joins the Tuzánlí -near Amasia as aforesaid. It is vulgarly called Yava; the proverb, “Tokát -defiles it, Amasia drinks it,” is applied to it because it flows from Tokát to -Amasia. After it has passed Amasia it is called Chehár Shenbesú (Wednesday’s -water), and after irrigating many fields, it disembogues in the Black Sea, on the -western side of Samsún. Below the village Chehár Shenbeh it is joined by several -springs, and below Nígissár, in the province of Sivás, it receives the river Kerkúk; -thus it reaches Samsún, after having increased its stream by those of seven other -rivers. The town of Amasia is built on both sides of this river, and on the hills -and mountains bordering on it. A bridge worth seeing, the work of Sultán -Bayazíd, crosses it. This river comes to Amasia from the south, running northward, -and turning many mills and water-wheels; which at Amasia are not less to -be praised than those of Hama and Adana. Amasia is divided into forty-eight -quarters of Moslíms, and five of Christians; there are altogether five thousand -houses, besides palaces.</p> - -<p>The Seraï of the Sultán is situated on the banks of the river, surrounded by -delightful gardens, curious trees, and many seats; it is cultivated by a master -gardener (Usta), and fifty gardeners, who wear yellow caps. The Seraï of Mahommed -Páshá is close to the mosque; within the castle is the Seraï of Sultán -Bayazíd, and many others, faced with brick; there are altogether two hundred -and forty mosques. Among them is the mosque of Bayazíd II. In his youth -Bayazíd was first made governor of Trebisonde, and then of Amasia; his father, -Mahommed II, having died at Máldepeh, he went to Constantinople to ascend the -throne, but gratefully remembering that he was made Emperor at Amasia, he -freed the inhabitants from all contributions, and built this mosque, one hundred -feet square: the mihráb, minber, and mahfil of the Muëzzins are of elegant -workmanship. The cupola is not very large, but adorned, like those of other -imperial mosques, with circles for suspending lamps and other ornaments. The -chronograph on the gate opposite the Kiblah gives the date of its building, 892 -(1486), it has two minarehs, and in the middle of the court-yard a water-basin for -ablutions. The mosque of Kúchúk Aghá, opposite the river Chekerek; the -mosque of Bayazíd Páshá, covered with lead, and paved with marble; the mosque -of Mohammed Páshá, covered with lead, and one minareh; the mosque of Khizr<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> -Elias, a large building, covered with lead; the mosque of Mekkeme, built of wood, -as also is the minareh; the mosque Fethie, formerly a Christian church and convent; -the mosque of Yogúrch Páshá, who was Vezír to Mohammed I.; the -mosque of Gokmedresse, covered with lead, but without a minareh; besides a -great number of Mesjids. There are ten colleges, the most elegant of which is -that of Sultán Bayazíd; nineteen houses for reading the Korán; at that of Sultán -Bayazíd there are more than three hundred Háfizes (who know the Korán by -heart); ten houses of tradition; and two hundred schools for boys, some of which -are covered with lead. There are forty convents for Dervishes, the best of which -is that of Jelál-ud-dín Rúmí, and ten dining establishments; at that of Sultán -Bayazíd all the poor dine twice a day. Of the Caravánseraïs, that of Sultán -Bayazíd is covered with lead, as is also that of Bairám Páshá, the Vezír of Murad -IV. The Kháns are lead-covered, with iron gates, besides those for merchants -(Khoja), there are those for single men (Mújerred); these last have their own -gatekeepers, and are shut up every night, so that those who do not come home -before the hour for closing are not let in, and those who are within cannot go out -till the gates are thrown open in the morning, when every person goes to his work.</p> - -<p>In the market-place (Charshú) there are altogether one thousand and sixty -shops, and one hundred and sixty different workmen, with vaults of stone like the -market place of Brússa. A Bezestán with four iron gates. The market place is -paved with large slabs. There are many distinguished inhabitants.</p> - - -<h3><i>Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c.</i></h3> - -<p>The inhabitants are a set of merry jolly fellows, and are all red-faced and fresh-coloured; -their occupation may be thus described;—first, the Zaims and Timariots -and the Páshá’s court; secondly, the divines, judges, and professors; the Imáms, -Khatíbs, Muëzzins, &c.; and thirdly, the merchants and handicraftsmen. There -are many well-bred highly-finished gentlemen, who speak with great eloquence, -but the dialect of the common people is harsh. The wealthy dress in sable -pelisses and Ferráji of cloth, the middle classes in Bogassin. The women are -Turkish beauties, with well-ranged teeth and words.</p> - -<p>From the district of Kághla comes a sort of corn called Dárdevedíshí, of which -most excellent bread is made, called Levásha, Kerde, Chákil; there are forty sorts -of pears, ruby-coloured cherries, and seven sorts of grapes and quinces, of which -a far-famed <i>robb</i> is made, and sent to Princes as a present.</p> - -<p>Sherbet of must, scented with musk; sherbet of quince jelly, which, on account -of its heating quality, is as useful in medicine as terra sigillata. The sherbets -called Khardalie, Búldáklí, are exported into Persia; a pleasant white beverage.</p> - -<p>The workmen are clever in all kind of handicraft, but the tailors and cotton<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> -beaters are the most famous, as well as the barbers and confectioners. In the -time of the Amalekites, the river Túzánlí did not pass through the town; it was -Ferhád, the lover of Shirín, who cut these mountains like cheese, and the traces -of his work is yet to be seen in the mountains on the west side of the town.</p> - -<p>The situation of this town in a deep valley, and on the banks of a river, contributes -to the mildness of the air, and the riches of its cultivation. The windows -of the houses look to the west and north; the winter is temperate. The water -which Ferhád carried to the town from the opposite mountains is delightful; it is -distributed from house to house.</p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs.</i></h3> - -<p>There are seventy different walks; the first is that of the bloody fountain (Kánlí -bínar;) it is so called because a wicked old woman having brought false news to -Ferhád here, of Sherín’s death, he threw his hatchet into the air, and himself down -the precipice, by which means he was killed.</p> - -<p>The tomb of Ottoman Princes, who are buried in the cypress wood, their names -I do not know; the tomb of Zekeria Khalvetí, he was the first disciple of Pír -Elias, and is buried near the saddlers’ shops (Serrájiler). The pilgrimage of the -Sultán of the faith, the Simorgh of truth Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman Ben Hassám-ud-dín -Gomishlí-zadeh, he is the nephew of Pír Elias, and was a dervish of the order -of Khalvetí, of whom many miracles are related. The three Princes, sons of -Murad II. having visited this Sheikh, two of them kissed his hand, and the third, -Mohammed, kissed his feet. The Sheihk took the handkerchief (Reda) he wore -on his neck, tied it round the neck of Prince Mohammed, and admonished him to -take care of the Moslíms at Constantinople. This Sheikh has left many poems on -divine love; his poetical name is Hossámí. His tomb is near that of Pír Elias, -in the convent of Yakúb Páshá. Molla Kassem Khatíb Ben Yakúb, who was -born and buried at Amasia, one of the deepest of learned divines. Molla Ala-ud-dín -Ilíkámi, born and buried at Amasia. Molla Abd-ul-jebbár Ajemí, near the tomb -of the Ottoman Princes. Molla Abd-ur-rahman Ben Ali Ben Moyed, born and -buried at Amasia. The Sultán of poets, Munírí Efendí, born and buried at -Amasia, he improvisated Arabic, Turkish, and Persian poems, and was one of the -Vezírs of Prince Ahmed, when Governor of Amasia. The excellent female poet, -Mihrmáh Khatún, descending from Pír Elias’s family, was a virtuous lady like -Rábie Adúye, who knew seventy scientific books by heart, and beat the most -learned men in disputing: her true name being Mihrmáh, she took the name of -Mihrí for her poetical surname; she left a Diván, and some theological treatises, -and was buried near her grandfather, Sheikh Pír Elias.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span></p> - -<p>Pilgrimage of the Pole of Poles, the Sheikh, <i lang="fr">par excellence</i>, the cream of saints, -the column of the Princes, Sheikh Pír Elias. He was one of the Sheikhs of -Sultán Bayazíd I., and went with Timúr to Shirván, from whence he returned to -Amasia, his birth-place, where he is buried on an elevated spot, called Sevádie, -near Amasia. He is famed for many miracles, one of the most celebrated is, that -when his corpse was washed, he straightened the hand which had been placed crooked -by the washing-man. His mausoleum, with all the foundations belonging to it, -was erected by Bayazíd II., son of Sultán Mohammed II. Strangers and poor -persons are here most liberally entertained. Praise be to God, that I was so -happy as to visit it, and to finish a complete lecture of the Korán there. The -pilgrimage of Kelíj Arslán, a Sheikh of the Mevlevís, buried in the convent of -that order. The pilgrimage of Ferhád; he is buried on the top of the mountain -which he cut for the love of Sherín, and the old woman who was the cause of his -death is buried between him and his mistress. The thistles and thorns which grow -on the tomb of the old woman prevent the flowers uniting, which grow on the -tombs of Ferhád and Sherín.</p> - -<p>There are a great number of pilgrimages of great and holy men, but I visited -only those I have given an account of, and at each, in honour of their souls, said -the Súra Yass, asking for their spiritual assistance. On the third day of our stay -the clarions of departure sounded; we took leave of our friends, and travelled the -same day through the mountains of Chengelli-bíl, reaching, after six hours march, -the station of Kánlí-bínár, which is the spot where Ferhád killed himself. It is a -pleasant place, with a luxuriant spring of most delightful water. We watered -our horses here, and pitched our tents, and continued our road next morning -towards the north for seven hours. We arrived at the village of Ezíl, a district -belonging to Amasia, three hundred houses with gardens, a khán, a mosque, -and a bath.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Town and Castle of Nígíssár.</i></h3> - -<p>The next day we reached, in eight hours time, the seat of the Dánishmend family, -the old town and stronghold of Nígíssár. Its builder was a Greek Emperor; it -was conquered in the year 476 (1083) by Sultan Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend -family, and became the seat of this dynasty; their second residence was -Amasia. The Seljúks, who anxiously wished to possess it, laid siege to it several -times without success. Its name is a corruption of Níg-hissár, the good castle. -It is an ancient, strong-built castle, on a limestone rock, five hundred and sixty -paces in circumference, of an hexagon shape: the three gates face the east, west, -and south; within the castle are three hundred houses and magazines, and a mosque,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span> -which was formerly a church. The garrison is small in number, because it is not -a frontier fortress; they only keep watch against rebels; the lower suburb is a -large town, but its streets being narrow, and going continually up and down hill, it -is with difficulty that a horseman can make his way to the market-place, and for a -waggon to do so is out of the question. This town belongs to the khass of the -Páshá of Sivás, the residence of a Súbashí of seven hundred purses’ revenue, the -judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers, and there is a Muftí, Nakíb, -Serdár, and Kiaya-yerí. The town comprises forty-three quarters, with sixty -mihráb (Jámí and Mesjids), of which nine are Friday mosques, wherein the -Khutbe is performed. The mosque of the castle was formerly a church, an ancient -place of worship. To the mosque of Melek Ghází, the visitor descends by five or -six steps; it has a slender, thin, well-proportioned minareh: its equal is not to be -seen elsewhere. The mosque of Chaplakáneh is faced with bricks. At the west end -of the town is the mosque of Júregí; outside of the castle is the mosque of Khalíl -Efendí, just finished, faced with brick; also outside of the castle is the mosque -of the Muftí. The houses of the town, in the valley, and on the hill, ascending -one above the other, are two thousand seven hundred in number, faced either with -earth or bricks. There are three baths, viz., that of the Muftí in the castle, that -of Chaplakháneh outside of the castle, and that of the Infidels, also outside of the -castle, besides forty-five private baths in the palaces.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Hot-spring of Nigíssár.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a small hot-bath outside of the town to the south; the women and boys of -the town wash their clothes here; it is a well-flavoured water, has no sulphurous -smell, and is useful as a remedy in leprous and arthritic diseases. It is visited -every year, in the month of July, by a great number of people, who amuse themselves -for a month, and then return to their homes. There is a college, and -house for reading of the Korán and tradition, but no kitchen for the poor; -there are seventy schools for boys. The inhabitants are an honest set of people, -with some beautiful women amongst them. There are seven convents, the first of -which is the great convent of Chevregí; that of Elias-dedeh is not less famous. -There are a great number of springs and fountains, which move as many corn and -fulling mills, also five hundred elegant shops, but no Bezestán. The narrow -street, which leads down from the castle, is lined on both sides with shoemakers’ -shops; the principal streets are paved with large slabs. The inhabitants are fresh-coloured -lively looking Turks, who pay great attention to strangers. Among -the eatables, pomegranates are much famed; they each weigh an occa, and some -even as much as five hundred dirhems, and are of the size of a man’s head. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> -cheese, Kufte and Passdagh of this place are famous; the environs are laid out in -rice plantations (Cheltuk). The Black Sea is two journies distance from this place.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages of Nígíssár.</i></h3> - -<p>The conqueror of Nígíssár, Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, is buried -near the castle gate. God’s mercy be upon him! Chevregí-boyúk Sultán lies near -the great mosque, beneath a cupola. We left this town and advanced towards -the east, through mountains and forests. After six hours march we reached -Kariebásh Chiftlik, the frontier of Sivás, here bordering the governorships of -Erzerúm, with two hundred Armenian houses, and a ziamet. The next day, as -soon as we trod the ground of Erzerúm, we offered up a sacrifice of two hundred -and seven camels, and the inhabitants of Erzerúm, with the Kiaya of the Chaúshes, -the Defter-Emíní, the Chaúshlar-Emíní, the Timár Defterdárí, and other gentlemen -of the Diván at their head, came to meet us with presents.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm.</i></h3> - -<p>It is situated in Azerbeíján and Armenia, and, according to some, erected by -Núrshiván; but the truth is that it was by Erzenbaí Ben Softár Ben Kúndúz, of -the dynasty of the White Sheep, whose ancestors had come from Mahán, and -built the castle of Akhlát, on the borders of the lake Wán; they are all buried at -Akhlát, and the ancestors of the Ottomans, Ertoghrúl and Súleimán, derive their -lineage from them. Uzún Hassan, having become master of Azerbeiján, built the -castle called Hassan, after his name, at Erzerúm. Envious of the conquest of -Constantinople by Mohammed II., he began to trespass on the frontiers, and to -violate the peace. Mohammed II., in defiance of him, conquered Trebisonde, and -defeated him with twenty thousand men in the field of Terjeán. With great -difficulty we traversed the rude pass of Iskefser, and in three hours we reached -Shákhna, an Armenian village of two hundred houses, where the Armenian girls -are wonderfully pretty. From Constantinople to this place we had constantly -ascended towards the east, and all the rivers were flowing from that direction -towards us; this will show on what high ground Erzerúm is situated. From -Shákhna we crossed the Governorship of Erzerúm, which was our allotted province, -in different directions to the south, north, east, and west, and shall now describe -the stations of these our excursions.</p> - -<p>Tekine is a village in the jurisdiction of Iskefser, with one hundred houses, -a ziámet. Five hours further on is the village of Chádár, of one hundred houses, -in the jurisdiction of Koilí. The castle of Koilí was built by Usún Hassan, from -fear of Mohammed II.; it belongs to the sanjak Shuban Kara Hissár, in the pro<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>vince -of Erzerúm; it is situated on a high rock, and is one thousand three -hundred paces in circumference. Inside are one hundred houses and magazines, -an iron gate opens to the west; it has a commander and seventy men; the suburb -outside consists of one hundred houses, a mosque and some shops. The castle -saluted us with seventeen guns, and the inhabitants met us with presents; they -slaughtered ten sheep as a sacrifice, for which they received ten ducats. Two stations -north of this village, on the shore of the Black Sea, is Baihssa-bazárí, which a -man on foot may reach in one day. In the reign of Ahmed I. the Cossacks of -Oczakov pillaged this place: the environs being gardens and flowery meadows are -extremely favourable to bees, and the honey of Koilí-hissár, scented with musk -and ambergris, is famous; the inhabitants are a turbulent set of people. We -descended a deep precipice, and after seven hours reached the village of Doirán. -The river here issues from the mountains of Kerkúk, is joined by several -streams from the mountains of Koilí-hissár, and below Chehárshenbe by the -river of that name, which passes Amasia. The Kerkúk is an excellent freshwater -river. The village of Doirán, situated on its banks, in the valley of -Akshár, consists of one hundred houses. We now went towards the east four -hours, to Anderes on the frontier of Shuban Kara-hissár, in the valley of -Akshár, a village of one hundred houses. Having marched two hours towards -the east, we reached the Chiftlik of Tabán Ahmed Agha, where the Páshá was -presented with an Arabian horse, and with twenty horses for his suite, three thousand -sheep, seven strings of camels, seven of mules, and ten purses; it was a great -festival, worthy of the Ottoman court itself. In recompense for this great festival, -the giver of it, Ahmed Agha, was imprisoned in the Kiaya’s room, and bought -his life by the payment of forty purses and seventy camels, by which opportunity -I also got a horse. Two hours further on lies the village of Ezbeder, in the territory -of Shuban Kara-hissár, an Armenian village surrounded with gardens. Four -hours further we reached the valley of Tilismát Za’aba; the torrent of Tilismát -Za’aba issues from the neighbouring mountains, and falls into the river Akhlát; -there are one hundred houses here built upon rocky ground; the subjects here are all -Armenians. A cave is still shown in which there was formerly a treasure, guarded by -two swords, which were continually moving up and down, a mast has many times -been put beneath them and instantly cut through; a magician has since got possession -of the treasure, but the cave still remains to be seen. There is, besides, -another talisman somewhere hereabout, but I have not seen it. Five hours from -hence is the village Yakúb, on the frontier of Shuban Kara; three hours further -on, that of Korkún Kiassí, and in one hour more, the village of Barú; after which -we came through the pass of Tekmán, which is closed by the winter for seven or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span> -eight months. After having got through it with much difficulty, we reached Kázíoghlíkoí, -an Armenian village. Four hours further is the castle of Shírán, on the -frontier of Shuban Kara; in four hours the village of Kara Jalar; in five hours -the village of Sáríchalar, inhabited by Moslíms and Armenians; in eight hours the -village of Sálút, the pass of which we traversed with considerable trouble, and for -the space of five hours were crossing the great plain of Kerkúk. At the end of this -plain is the village of Genj Mohammed Agha, with two hundred houses and a -mosque, on the frontier of the district of Shuban Kara-hissár; five hours to the -east is the village of Keremlí, inhabited by Moslíms and Armenians; opposite to -it, on a hill, lies the Castle of Dermerí, built in the reign of Sultán Ahmed from -fear of the rebels; it is a small castle with a gate to the north, without commander -and garrison. Here the Páshá made an excursion (Ilghár), with three hundred -horsemen, and we arrived, at the end of twelve hours, at Chághir Kánlí Sultán, -who was a great Sheikh in the time of Sultán Mohammed II. His tomb is -adorned with several lamps (chirághdán), candelabras (shemidán), censers (búkhúrdán), -and vases for sprinkling rose-water (gulábdán). It is a reverential place, -where prayers are put up to Heaven. I visited it, and read the Súra Yass there; -through the sanctity of this saint the country abounds with cattle. Two Chiftliks -are exempted by Imperial diploma from all taxes; the village consists of three -hundred houses, with a mosque and a convent, the dervishes of which go bareheaded -and barefooted, and wear their hair long. The people carry wooden clubs -in their hands, some of them crooked sticks (litúi). They all came to wait on the -Páshá, and to exhibit the grants of their foundation. The Páshá asked from -whence they dated their immunity, and they invited him to visit their place of -devotion (Sema’ákháneh). We followed them to a large place where a great fire was -lighted of more than forty waggon-loads of wood, and forty victims sacrificed. -They assigned a place for the Páshá at a distance from the fire, and began to dance -round it, playing their drums and flutes, and crying “Hú!” and “Allah!” This -circular motion being continued for an hour, about an hundred of these dervishes -naked, took their children by the hand, and entered the fire, the flames of which -towered like the pile of Nimrod, crying “O all constant! O all vivifying!” At -the end of half an hour, they came out of the fire, without the least hurt except -the singeing of their hair and beards, some of them retiring to their cells, instead -of coming before the Páshá, who remained much astonished. They then gave a -feast to the Páshá, which was even greater than Ahmed Tabán’s feast. It was -surprising that they were enabled to prepare such a feast in so short a time, as -the Páshá had arrived suddenly, and by a by-road. The Páshá confirmed their -immunities, and gave them a present of one hundred ducats. In sixteen hours -more we came to the plain of Terján. The mosque of Sultán Hassan is a praise<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>worthy -monument of Uzún Hassan, but ít stands alone here. Uzún Hassan, who -liked the situation, intended to build a town here bearing his name, but Sultán -Mohammed II. destroyed all his projects by the famous battle, which was fought -on this plain; it was a scene of great slaughter, even now the peasants find bones -and hidden treasures when ploughing the field. We crossed this plain hastily, and -in eight hours reached the village, where the Kiaya of the Chaúshes had provided -a great feast for the Páshá, and presented him with five horses, five purses, and -three Georgian slaves. At the end of five hours we reached the village of Púlúr, -and in four hours that of Terjánlí Alí Agha, an Armenian village of three -hundred houses, a mosque and a bath. Alí Agha gave a grand repast here, -accompanied with a present of ten horses, ten purses, ten strings of camels, and -five of mules. We went from hence nine hours further, to the village of Mama -Khatún, in the district of Erzerúm, consisting of one hundred Mussulman houses; -it is a free ziámet.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún.</i></h3> - -<p>This lady is buried beneath a cupola, at the foot of a rock; she was the daughter -of one of the Princes of the Aúk Koyúnlí, and lies buried here with all her -children, but without any keeper attached to her mausoleum, she is buried in a -marble coffin; near it is a mosque and a bath. Six hours further is the village of -Habs, at the western end of the plain of Erzerúm; it consists of one hundred and -fifty Armenian houses. All the principal men of Erzerúm came to this place with -presents to meet the Páshá’s Diván. We proceeded with a large retinue for the -space of five hours, to the hot-bath, which is also situated at the western end of -the plain of Erzerúm, and where every year some person or other is drowned. It -is a very useful bath, but too warm to be used without a mixture of cold water. -Some of the former princes have built a dressing-room here (jámeghán), and a -basin (havúz): the climate is pleasant. The Motesellem Mustafa Agha, here -presented the Páshá with an Arabian racehorse, caparisoned with jewels, a sable -pelisse, a quiver, and a sword set with jewels, a dagger and a girdle, and ten -racehorses, mounted by ten Georgian boys, all armed. His three hundred and -seventy slaves were clad in showy dresses, like so many waiting youths in Paradise. -He gave also to me, poor Evliyá, a sable fur, some cloth, and one hundred -piastres, because I had been master to his son for some time. Our arrival at this -hot-bath was exactly the seventieth journey we had made since we left Constantinople, -and an entrance in grand procession was organized, which outrivalled in -brilliancy those of the greatest Vezírs. Indeed, the Páshá was a Commander-in-Chief -(Serdár), who by Imperial rescript (Khattí Sheríf) was allowed even to use -the Túghra, or cypher of the Sultán. The troops of Erzerúm paraded on both<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> -sides of the way from this hot bath, which is six hours distance from Erzerúm, up -to the gates of the town; with cuirasses and casques, bearing long lances, their -horses being adorned with knots of sea-horses’ bristles, and various other trappings. -The Páshá was surrounded by eight body-guards (Shátir), who wore golden caps -on their heads, carried battle-axes in their hands, had golden girdles, and splendid -caftáns, walking like the peacocks of Paradise. On the right and left of the -Páshá walked the Matarají-bashí (keeper of the leaden bottle, which contains the -water for purification), and the Tufenkjí-bashí, or head of the fuzileers, bearing a -water-bottle set with jewels, and muskets of costly workmanship. The Páshá -passed between two lines, greeting both sides, and the people returned his salute. -Four hundred Ulemás all clad in armour were headed by the Imám, and I, -poor Evliya, as Múëzzin. Behind us followed the treasurer and the standard-bearer, -with the eightfold Turkish music. The Tátár troops, the Muteferrika, -the chamberlains, passed, all clad in armour. As soon as the procession drew near -Erzerúm, the fortress began to salute by firing the great guns from the highest -tower, called Kessik Kala’á, as a selám aleikum, after which the Janissaries fired -the guns of the inner castle, and so continued during the procession. But when -the Páshá himself entered the gate of Erzenján, the six hundred and seventy guns, -which compose the artillery of the fortress, were all discharged at once, and the -skies were rent and the earth trembled. Seven regiments of Janissaries lined -the way from the gates of the town to the gates of the palace, ready to salute -the Páshá, who, as soon as he had entered the palace, was saluted once more by -a general discharge of the artillery on the walls. Many hundred victims were -sacrificed, and a splendid repast equal to that of Mádí Kerb followed. After dinner -the music played, and a diván was held, wherein, after the decision of many -lawsuits, the twenty-seven Aghas of the castle, those of the Janissaries, artillerymen, -armourers, &c., were invested with seventy brilliant robes of honour, and -Molla Chelebí Efendí, the relation of Emír Bokhara, with a green sable pelisse. -I received a caftán in my degree of clerk of the custom-house. The governor -then most graciously assigned me a lodging in the palace built by Tekelí Mustafa -Páshá, where I lived quietly, sometimes keeping company with the Governor, and -at others discharging the functions of clerk of the custom-house. I had full opportunity -of acquiring the most perfect knowledge of the state of Erzerúm, as I -was allowed to see all the kanúns, registers, and protocols.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm.</i></h3> - -<p>It was wrested out of the hands of Kara Yússúf, the son of Uzún Hassan, by -Sultán Mohammed II. The khass of the Vezír is fixed at one million, two hun<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span>dred -and fourteen thousand six hundred aspers; the whole province is divided -into twelve sanjaks. The officers are a Defterdár of the treasury, a Kiaya of the -Defterdár of the Timárs, a Kiaya and Inspector of the Chaúshes, an Alaï-Beg, and -a Cherí-bashí. The sanjaks are as follows:—Kara-hissár, Akií, Pássin, Siper, -Hassan, Melázgerd, Tekmán, Kúrúján, Túrtúm, Mujtekerd, Mámreván, and Erzerúm. -The khass of the Defterdár of the treasury amounts to one million and -fifty-two thousand nine hundred aspers; that of the kiaya of the fiefs to fifty -thousand, and that of the Defterdár of the fiefs to twenty thousand two hundred. -There are fifty-six ziamets, and two thousand two hundred and nineteen timárs; -the feudal militia number five thousand two hundred and seventy-nine swords, -and the Jebellís, in time of war, twelve thousand men, besides two thousand men -who are furnished by the khass of the Páshá. The soldiers of Erzerúm are stout, -brave fellows. The judge is a Molla, with a revenue of five hundred aspers, with -three subordinate Naíbs or Vicars. An Agha of the Janissaries, an Agha of the -artillerymen, and one of the armourers, who are all in the interior fortress. -Abasa Páshá, the famous rebel, one night surprised this fortress, and put the -whole garrison of Janissaries to the sword, except the Agha, who was absent that -night by accident, and consequently escaped. Abaza remained in rebellious possession -of it for ten years, in defiance of seven Vezírs, who marched against him -with the power of absolute command, such as Cherkess Mohammed Dishlín Hossein -Páshá, Timúr Kázík Khalíl Páshá, &c. but owing to the strength of the -fortress, they were unable to reduce the rebel, until Khosrew Páshá assumed the -command; he took Abaza prisoner, and carried him with him into the presence of -Sultán Murád IV. He obtained a general pardon, and was first made Governor of -Bosnia, afterwards of Bude, and finally of Ozakov, which he retained up to the time -of the expedition against Eriván. The troops rebelling at that moment, called -loudly for Abaza Páshá, which, coming to the ears of the Sultán, he ordered him -to be killed, and buried in the tomb of Murád Páshá, near the market of the ink-makers. -He escaped, however, and wandered for some time in Arabia and Persia, -re-appearing at Erzerúm the same year that we came there. I saw his blood even -before my own door, because Silihdár Súleimán Páshá cut his head off on the -arrival of our Motessellím, or Páshá’s substitute. Since the rebellion of Abaza, the -greatest attention has been paid to this important post by the government; it has -been strengthened by an immense artillery, and six companies, so that the whole -garrison amounts to two thousand five hundred men, a commander of the castle, -Dizdár, and twelve Aghas. In the inner castle are one hundred and eighty cannons, -and at the gate of Tabríz, in the centre of the two fortresses, are twelve -large cannons, placed there by Murád IV. The fortress is situated at a gun’s shot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> -from Mount Egerlí; on the north and north-west extends the plain of Erzerúm, -two miles square, a fertile flowery field, covered with villages.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the great river Euphrates.</i></h3> - -<p>The great river Euphrates flows through the middle of the plain of Erzerúm. -Its source is at the bottom of the pilgrimage of Dúmlibaba, on the east side of -Georgia; it flows towards the west, causing in its way many marshes and canals, -passes before the village of Kián, the castle of Kemáni, through the Yaila of a -thousand lakes, inhabited by the Curds Izúlí, joins the Murád (the name of which -it assumes), and passes like a sea in the neighbourhood of Malatia to Samosat, -Kala’aí Rúm, Birejík, the bridge Búmbúja, Bálissa, Ja’aber, Rakie, Rahbie, Karkessia, -Ania, Hita, Ebyár, Takúk, Helle, and Kúfa; it is joined at Kaverna by the -Shatt-ul-arab (Tigris), and thus becomes an immensely large river, which is ascended -by Indian ships from Bassra; the whole extent, with all its windings, is four -hundred farsangs; it passes four hundred towns and villages. In the plain of -Erzerúm its water is very sweet and palatable, well worth being recorded in the -Korán by the verse:—“And we gave you to drink of the water of the Euphrates.” -Besides the Euphrates no less than seventy-two rivers descend from the mountains -of Erzerúm and Diárbekr. Makrisí says, that the Tigris and Euphrates -were dug out by Daniel with the assistance of Angels. The Tigris is the Shatt, -which rises east of Diárbekr, between Torjíl and Miafarekein, receives an infinite -number of springs, and goes to Hossní Kaifa and Mossul. This river unites the -upper and lower Zarb, and becomes a tremendous and roaring stream which is called -the mad Zarb. It was of the river Euphrates that the prophet is reported to have -said:—“O inhabitants of Cufa, your river Euphrates takes up two channels of -Paradise.” Imám Ja’afer is reported to have said in praise of this river:—“If the -inhabitants of Irák and Rúm were acquainted with all the excellent qualities of -the Euphrates, they would build a wall on each side of it. Whoever bathes -therein three times, may be certain of being cured of many diseases.” Another -tradition on the Euphrates is reported by Abúhoreirí, as follows:—“The last day -shall not arrive till the Euphrates flows not from a mountain of gold, on which -men are killing each other; ninety-nine shall be killed out of each hundred, and -yet every one shall say, ‘perhaps it is I who may be saved.’” The Euphrates and -Orontis (A’assí), are the only two rivers which touch the frontier of the Holy -Land. The Euphrates freezes in the winter so that during two months many -caravans cross it, but it never freezes south of Erzerúm; it is a sweet clear water, -and a great comfort to the inhabitants of Erzerúm, though they have the spring, -called the Source of Paradise, within their walls.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm.</i></h3> - -<p>It consists of two castles of a square form, the distance between the two walls -is seventy paces; the ditch is eighty paces broad, and twenty deep, but, on -the side of the Gurjí and Erzenján gates, the ditch is not so deep: the whole -circumference is eighty thousand paces, and it has three gates, that to the west is -the gate of Erzenján, where the ditch is crossed by a bridge; the second to the -east, and the third to the north, are likewise entered by crossing bridges. The -first, which is the Georgian gate (Gúrji), is double, like that of Erzenján; but -that of Tabríz, as it is close to the walls of the inner castle, is only a single one. -The guns are all pointed towards the quarters of the town Dáragháj and Gumishlí -Kunbed. Within the outer castle is an immense tower reaching to the skies, -known by the name of Kessik Kulle, on the top of which is a high wooden Koshk; -as it is one hundred cubits high, ten guns pointed from thence in all directions, -intercept even the flight of birds. The height of the wall of the inner castle is -seventy cubits; the other walls are but from forty to fifty cubits high; there are -two hundred and ten strong towers, and two thousand and eighty battlements -round the castle, and seventeen hundred houses, all covered with earth (<i lang="fr">terrasses</i>) -in the ancient style, so also are all the villages which I saw in the whole government -of Erzerúm.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm.</i></h3> - -<p>The palace of the Páshá has no less than one hundred and ten rooms of various -sizes, for the Diván and Koshks; of the last, the two finest are those of Tayár Páshá, -and of Benlí Páshá, with a bath and a fine fountain. On the outside, above the -stables, are the rooms for the watchmen; the court-yard is a spacious place where -they play the jeríd. It has two gates, one is that of the Diván, opening on the -great road, the other is a secret gate, always kept shut. Erzerúm contains seventy -quarters of Moslíms, and seven of Infidels. There are no Armenians, Copts, or -Jews; if any make their appearance they run the risk of being killed. In the -quarter called the Source of Paradise the houses are built of stone; most of them -are only one story high, because the air is sharp and the winter severe. It has -been known to snow here for ten or eleven months in the year, which is the reason -that the greatest part of the houses are built of one story, like a bath, with windows, -and a felt door on the top.</p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Mosques.</i></h3> - -<p>There are seventy-seven mihrábs; the oldest is the great mosque inside the -gate of Tabríz, with a minareh in the ancient style, built by the Princes of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span> -Akche Koyúnlí, two hundred feet square. The mimber and mihráb are also in -the ancient style; it is supported by two hundred columns of fir-tree, and the -cupola is also of wood; on one side of the mosque the biscuit for the garrison of -Eriván is kept. On the east side of this mosque, close to the wall, is an old college -with two minarehs; some say that they were built by the Princes of the Akche -Koyúnlí, while others ascribe them to Uzún Hassán; in short, it is an old prayer-place, -which has been cruelly damaged in the different sieges of Erzerúm, and -never been repaired because it was never endowed. Within the gates of Tabríz are -two tall minarehs, the shining porcelain of which dazzles the eyes of beholders; -tumblers exhibit their skill on ropes extended between these two high minarehs. -Sultán Murad IV. converted the ruined mosque into a cannon foundry. God -grant it may be repaired! The mosque of Lále Mustafa Páshá, before the gate of -the Seraï on the great road, built by the grand Vezír of Sultán Súleimán. Its -cupola is built in the style of those of Constantinople, eighty feet square, and -covered with lead. Its mihráb, mimber, and mahfíl are very simple. Outside is a -stone bench, but the courtyard is narrow. It is the work of the great architect -Sinán. Its sheikh is Wání Efendí, one of the most learned divines, and famed -commentators, a second Na’amán, an eloquent man, whose renown is spread all -over the empire; its Imám is a high-minded priest, who knows the whole Korán -by heart, whose reading plunges those who listen into the depths of meditation. -He is a most perfect musician, and is called the Imám of the Janissaries; and if -the Muëzzin, a second Belál (the Prophet’s Muëzzin) ascends the minareh, and -proclaims with David’s voice Mahommed’s shout, “God is great, God is great,” -all hearers begin to tremble, every person leaves his business or repast, and hastens -to the mosque. All the inhabitants of Erzerúm are devout, pious men. Ja’afer -Efendi’s mosque is a pleasing new built mosque, with a high cupola and gate, a -courtyard and a spouting fountain; the windows are guarded with iron gratings. -In the inner castle is an old mosque much frequented. Outside of the gate of -Erzenján is the Páshá’s mosque, covered with lead, and outside of the gate of -Tabríz, on the edge of the ditch, is the mosque of Mohammed Páshá, with one -minareh, and with a terrace. Besides these great mosques (Jami’í), there are also -seventy-seven mesjíds, one hundred and ten schools for boys, convents, and -houses for reading the Korán.</p> - - -<h3><i>Fountains.</i></h3> - -<p>On the market-place, is the Source of Paradise, Jennet-bunár; and outside of -the gate of Erzenján is the Camel fountain; on the fountain of Mustafa Páshá on -the edge of the ditch, outside the gate of Tabríz is this inscription from the Korán<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span> -saying:—“there are flowing fountains in it (Paradise).” There are seventy Se-bílkháneh, -or places where water is distributed.</p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets.</i></h3> - -<p>The most elegant bath is that of Ja’afer Efendí, there are seventy kháns, some of -them for Caravans (Caravanseraï); some for merchants (Kháns, <i lang="fr">par excellence</i>); -some for unmarried workmen (barracks); of the latter there are ten, where -foreign workmen find accommodation. The Bezestán has eight hundred shops, -four gates and a stone cupola. The markets of the saddlers, goldsmiths, button-makers -and tailors are very elegant. The mint is near the gate of Erzenján.</p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c.</i></h3> - -<p>The inhabitants are all Turkomans and Armenian kurds, of lively complexion, -middle size, stout, strong in youth, and vigorous in old age. From ten to twenty-five -years of age they are extremely fine, but after that they quickly become -hairy men, good natured and brave. The principal men dress in sable furs, the -Ulemás in ferrájís of cloth and caftáns of Bogassin; the workmen wear abbas, -and sometimes a caftán of Bogassin. During three months the air is mild and -pleasant; the water is sweet and extremely wholesome for the women; whoever -drinks of the spring called the Source of Paradise in the summer, understands in -its full sense, the verse of the Korán, “Water vivifies all things.” Seeds ripen -here in sixty days, and bring forth fruit from eighty to one hundred fold; there -are seven sorts of corn, one of which is as white as camel’s teeth. The -workmanship of the tailors and goldsmiths is very skilful. They make two kinds -of pies here, one of chicken and the other of a sort of vegetable called Cheresh; -white and excellent pastry (Chorek), white bread called Koláj, and meat roasted -on stoves, &c. Their beverages are Sherbet of Ribbes, and excellent Búza.</p> - -<p>The walks are the place of the Jeríd; at the mills in the meadow; the place -of Gumishlí Kunbed (the silver vault), and the Convent of Abd-ur-rahman Ghází.</p> - - -<h3><i>Genealogies of Erzerúm.</i></h3> - -<p>Outside of the gates of the fortress on the east, west and north sides, is the -suburb, inhabited by more than thirty thousand Rayas; on the south side, from -the gate of Tabríz to that of Erzenján a wall has been begun, had it been -finished, it would have made Erzerúm an amazingly strong fortress. Between -this wall and the castle is the suburb divided into seven quarters. The suburb of -the Tabríz gate extends from the quarters of Dáragách, and that of Dúlúkler to -Gumishlí Kunbed. The suburb of the Georgians on the north side, is the quarter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> -of the rich merchants; here is the custom-house where I was employed as clerk: -round it are the houses of Persian, Indian, and Chinese merchants, next to the -custom-houses of Constantinople and Smyrna, that of Erzerúm is the most busy. -The suburb of Erzenján extends, on the eastern side of the castle-gate, from the -Camel fountain to the mill of Alí. This suburb being mostly inhabited by Armenians, -there are thirteen churches here. The Infidels wear variegated turbans, -and blue coats, and the lower classes wear felt, with coarse shoes called Chárk; -their women wrap white sheets round their heads, and the Musselmán women -wear pointed caps of gold and silver stuff, velvet trowsers and yellow boots: they -are extremely pretty, their teeth as well arranged as their words; with their -beautiful hair, dragging a thousand lovers after them as slaves. The men are -long-lived, in society may be found many men past seventy years of age, with -full use of all their faculties. They generally speak a peculiar dialect, but their -divines and poets speak with great eloquence, and their story-tellers delight -intelligent people by their tales of Hamza, and by Chinese shades. There are also -many Santons and holy men, of whom Allahán-dede was famous for his uxoriousness. -Though the air of Erzerúm is cold, yet its vegetables are abundant, its -soil being extremely fertile, and blessed with productions of all kind, which makes -Erzerúm one of the cheapest places in the world. Though Erzerúm has neither -gardens nor vineyards, yet it is famed for roses; some winter apples and pears are -the only fruits which are found here. Plane-trees and willows are in abundance -in all the walks and in the rose-gardens; on account of their long winter -and short summer, the sowing and harvest is over in two months. At the time -I was at Erzerúm there happened, in the month of July, when the horses were -out at grass, such a storm of lightning, thunder, hail and snow, that all the horses -broke away and ran half mad to the neighbouring villages. The length and -severity of the winter here is explained by the following tale. They asked -a Dervish “from whence he came?” he said, “from the snow of Divine Mercy;” -they asked, “what was the name of the place;” “Erzerúm,” said the Dervish, -which may be spelled Erezolúm (cruel to man); they continued to ask “whether -he had seen any summer there.” The Dervish said, “By God, I remained there -eleven months and nine and twenty days, the people said that summer was -coming, but I did not see it. It happened, however, that a cat, which ran over -the roofs of the houses, became froze there while in the act of running, and -remained so for the space of nine months, when the spring arriving, the cat began -to thaw, cried ‘Miaú!’ and fell down.” This tale has become a common -proverb. It is really a fact, that if a man touches a piece of iron with his wet -hand during winter, they freeze together, and cannot be separated without tearing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span> -off the skin. I have passed forty days in the coldest weather at Assov, and in -the desert of Kipchák, but I never felt cold like this; the people are, however, -very healthy. The fruits come from Isper, Tortúm, and Erzenján; peaches, apricots, -and grapes are sold at the weight of an occa for a para; a waggon-load of -melons or water-melons may be had for ten paras. Eatables are found here in -great perfection, but there is no wood, the mountains being naked; wood is -nevertheless very cheap, as it is brought from mountains at two journey’s distance; -a mast of from thirty to forty cubits length is sold for forty aspers. The -Páshá’s wood is brought to the town by the camels of the caravans, which arrive -at the custom-house. An agha has the inspection of the wood; the poor people -burn cow-dung. The Rayas place the stove in the middle of the house, on the -sides of which the cattle stand; the house is as warm as a bath, and they cook -their bones and offal on the fire.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Mount Egerlí.</i></h3> - -<p>This is a high mountain, at half an hour’s distance on the south side of Erzerúm, -its name is derived from its form, which is like a saddle (Eger); its top is bifurcated, -it abounds in medical herbs, particularly in the Tútia flower, the scent of -which perfumes the air. Oculists come here to collect the plant Tútia, and with -it cure people who have been diseased for forty years. The odour of aromatic -plants and scented flowers fills the atmosphere.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr.</i></h3> - -<p>I once played Jeríd at the foot of this mountain, when I fell from the horse, and -in falling said to myself, “Where art thou now, saddle-mountain (Egerlítág)?” -Having recovered my senses I mounted another horse, and galloping full speed -towards the mountain, I ascended it. I saw on the top a large tomb, on which I -first said a fátihah, and having measured it by my steps, I found it eighty paces in -length, with two columns, which marked the situation of the head and the feet. -I was looking on the tomb, when a bad smell arose, very disagreeable both to me -and my servants, who held the horses; I looked on the grave, and saw that the -earth within it, being black and greasy, was boiling like gruel in a pan. I then -returned, and having related my adventure in the Páshá’s company in the evening, -Ja’afer Efendi of Erzerúm, a learned and elegant writer, warned me not to visit -this place any more, because it was the grave of Balaam, the son of Baúr, who -had died an Infidel by the curse of Moses, and whose grave was now boiling, both -in winter and summer, by subterraneous fire. At the foot of the same mountain, -Abd-ur-rahman Ghází, the standard-bearer of the prophet, lies buried. One day I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> -ascended from the south side of the convent about two thousand paces, when I -saw on the second top of this bifurcate mountain a tremendous dragon turned -into black stone. It measured seven hundred and seventy paces from the head to -the tail, the head looks to the field of Erzerúm, the tail to the castle of Meláz -Kerd. If snow falls on the mountains, the figure of this black dragon is easily -distinguished from the windows of the Páshá’s palace; the circumference of its -body is two hundred paces, each of its four feet is as large as ten men put together, -and its tail is raised like a minareh. It remained whole until the reign of Selím I. -when it was broken by an earthquake, so that its fragments now lay scattered -about. The head was then split asunder, and one of the eye-balls rolled down on -the south side towards Melázguerd, where it lies on the plain like a cupola; the -left eye-ball of the same size, yet remains in the petrified head, and is seen very -distinctly with its ears, tongue, nose, and mouth every time it snows, because no -snow will remain on this black stone, but melts away, and renders more prominent -the black colour of it. In winter the stone becomes hot, and emits -vapour; in summer it is cold, and exhales a pleasant odour. The legend reports -that this most tremendous dragon was changed into stone by the Prophet’s -standard-bearer, when it came to swallow up the inhabitants of Erzerúm as food -for its young, who were shut up in a cave of Mount Siján, on the borders of the -lake Ván.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní.</i></h3> - -<p>His name is Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak, a native of the town Kárzún, -where he was born in the year 352 of the Hejira. In his travels he visited Brússa -and Adrianople and returned to Erzerúm, where he settled in a great tower within -the gate of Tabríz; his tomb-keeper is a white-bearded woman, whom I saw when -I visited the tomb. Shehíd Murteza Páshá, who was shut up seven months in -Eriván, is buried at the foot of Abú Ishak Kárzúní, with Abaza Páshá, who was -killed by Dishlín Hossein Páshá. Opposite to the Páshá’s palace, in a pointed -vault, lies Sultán Kássim, the son of Mahmúd Gazneví, and near him his sister -Fírúzeh Khánum. Outside of the gate of Erzenján, above the camel’s fountain, -Jánpúland-zadeh, lies Mustafa Páshá, who after the conquest of Eriván was killed -by the grand Vezír Mohammed Pásha. He was a protector of my father and -myself. Abd-ur-rahman, the standard-bearer of the Prophet, is buried at the foot -of Egerlítágh, in a fine convent. Outside of the gate of Tabríz, at the place -called Gumishlí Kunbed (the silver vault), because it was once faced with silver, -reposes Sultán Mahmúd, the Gasnevide, on whose marble coffin is written only the -word Mahmúd. There are besides many other pilgrimages, which I had no -opportunity of visiting.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Stations of our military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík.</i></h3> - -<p>Letters of complaint arrived from Genj Alí Khán, the Khán of Eriván, stating -that the rebellious Beg of the Castle of Shúshík had broken the peace by inroads -into the Persian districts of Eriván. The sanjak Begs, Timariots and Zaims were -summoned to take the field with half of their contingents, and to assemble at the -Silver vault. The Páshá himself fixed his tent there, with seventy banners of -Segbán or Seimen and Sárija (irregular troops), and four thousand regulars. The -Beglerbegs assembled around him, pitching their tents according to the orders -issued. It was an army of seventy-six thousand men. When the Persian Envoy -saw this immense army collected, he repented of his complaint against the Beg of -Shúshík, because he was afraid that this army might receive orders to lay siege -to Eriván. Alaja Atlí Hassan Agha, with a thousand horse, was named Quarter-master -(Konákjí-bashí); he took the van with the tails and tens. Sídí Ahmed -Páshá was named Chárkají, or leader of the vanguard, and Bákí Páshá, Dúmdár, -or leader of the rearguard. The army set out from the Silver vault in such -order that the Persian Envoys and Khans remained quite perplexed. After four -hours march it reached the place called the Camel’s Neck (Deve-boiní), where the -Páshá, commander-in-chief, gave an entertainment to all the Begs and Beglerbegs, -after which every one retired to his tent; this is a pleasant meadow, where our -horses were refreshed with excellent trefoil, it is also the commencement of the -field of Pássin. In winter time snow lies here to the height of a minareh, and -many caravans have been lost in it. It was the snow that prevented Tabáni Yassí -Mohammed Páshá from passing the Deve-boiní, and as he did not arrive before -Eriván soon enough, that fortress was taken from the Osmanlís after seven months -siege by the Persians. Three hours further towards the east, we arrived at the -village Ja’afer Efendí, where Ja’afer Efendí, its owner, gave a splendid entertainment -to the Páshá, with a present of three horses, and three boys. It is a -well cultivated Armenian village of three hundred houses. We marched five -hours across the plain of Pássin to the strong fortress of Rúm Hassan, renovated -by Uzún Hassan, the Sultán of Azerbeiján; it is a lofty castle which was taken -by Sultán Súleimán out of the hands of the children of Kara Yússúf, and is now -the seat of the sanjak Beg of Pássin, in the province of Erzerúm. The khass -amounts, according to the canon of Sultán Súleimán, to twelve thousand four -hundred aspers; there are six Zaims, and three hundred and twenty-five Timariots. -An Alaï Beg, Cherí-bashí, and Yuz-bashí (Colonel, Captain, and Lieutenant), are -the officers of the feudal militia. In the time of war, the number of the troops -amounts to fifteen hundred, the half of which now joined the Páshá’s army. The -castle saluted the Páshá, as soon as his tent was fixed, with a great noise of guns<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span> -and muskets. The Páshá sent an order to the commander to place the whole -garrison under arms on the walls, as he wished to enter in state. When we -entered it shouts of Allah rent the skies, and the reports of the guns shook -them, so that the Persian Envoy was quite perplexed, putting the finger of astonishment -to his lips. In the inside of the castle, the space between the outer and -inner gate was set round with armour and different kinds of weapons, and beginning -from the hot-bath gate, both sides of the road were lined, two deep, by -armed men, who gave the salute. The prayer of Friday was performed in the -mosque, and when we left it all the walls were covered with flags and banners of -different colours. The Páshá entered the inner castle, where the guns of Sultán -Súleimán, of forty four spans length, were fired, and the balls were thrown as far as the -Bridge of the Shepherds, Shobán Jissrí. Here the company sat down to a splendid -dinner, after which the Beg and Dizdár were invested with robes of honour. The -Páshá returned to his tent, where he received the visit of the judge (appointed -with one hundred and fifty aspers), the Serdár of the Janissaries, the Kiaya-yerí -of the Sipáhís, of the Muftí, the Nakib-ul-ishráf, and other principal men (Ayán.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan.</i></h3> - -<p>It is situated on the northern side of the field of Pássin, on an isolated high -cliff, so high, that to look down from the side of the hot-bath makes the head -giddy. Inside there is nobody but the Imám, the Múezzin, and the Dizdár, or -commander. Horses and asses cannot get up to this place. There is a small -Koshk built for Murad IV. by our protector Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, at the -time of the expedition to Eriván, was the imperial sword-bearer, having succeeded -the former sword-bearer, who was removed from his office because the coverlet of -the Sultán’s bed was set fire to by a spark one night. The circumference of the -castle is one thousand paces, without a ditch; an iron gate opens to the west. On -the north side, below the upper or innermost castle, is another castle with two -walls, whose circumference is six thousand paces. It is an oblong square, of a -shining whiteness. The walls are but eighteen yards high, but they are double, -and on three sides the ditch is very deep, so that there is no fear of an enemy; -the ground being marshy, no trenches can be opened. Its three gates are: on -the west side, the gate of Erzerúm, a great gate with iron wings; the gate of the -hot-bath, and a secret gate, shut to the east side; there is a garrison of seven -hundred men, with a well-filled arsenal, and sixty large and small guns. Towards -the south opens the plain of Pássin, which is seven journies long. The -houses, five hundred and ninety in number, are all stone-built winter houses: the -town consists of nine quarters, with as many mosques. The mosque of Súleimán<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span> -is a low terraced mosque, with one minareh in the ancient style; there is no Bezestán -or Medresse, but six schools for boys, a khán, and a bath. The inhabitants -are a brave set of people, kind to foreigners. There are some men of wit and -learning. The great poet Nefií Efendí was born here; no gardens exist -round the castle, because it is too cold, nevertheless, vegetables are found -here in abundance. Bread and honey are rather to be suspected, for I, myself, -poor Evliyá, having eaten some honey in the commander’s house, became in half -an hour so giddy that I thought of throwing myself down from the castle.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Hot-baths.</i></h3> - -<p>On the south side of the lower town (Robáth), on the Kiblah side, are several -hot-baths; seven of them are covered with small cupolas, and in eight other places -the water is boiling in the open air, each place being used for different animals, -such as horses, mules, camels, sheep, and others. The water of these hot-baths -is carried to distant places on camels, and those who are afflicted with leprosy are -cured if they drink of it.</p> - -<p>Three hours to the east from hence, we came to the village of Sefer Agha, consisting -of one hundred Armenian houses, in the field of Pássin. Three hours -further on, is the great Bridge of the Shepherds (Chobán Koprissí). It is called -so because it was built by Melek Sultán, of the dynasty of the shepherds (Chobán). -It is vaulted like a rainbow over the river Aras, which comes from the great Gok-yaila, -and flows to the east; passes under Melázjerd, before the village of Artof, -the castle of Khinis, beneath the bridge of Altún Khalkalí, supplies water to many -hundred villages below the Bridge of the Shepherds, joins the Zengi river below -Eriván, which falls into the Kúr (Cyrus), and with it disembogues into the Caspian -Sea. The river Aras (Aranes) is an impetuous river, which, at the melting -of the snow, rages like the sea. The army passed during three days over the -bridge, with the Páshá himself in grand state. After seven hours we came to the -village of Great Artof, in the sanjak of Khinis, a village of one hundred Armenian -houses. Eight hours further to the east, is the village of Kúzúlí Sultán Baba, -belonging to Khinis. The castle, which lies six hours further on, was built by -Shah Shapúr, the uncle of Uzún Hassan, the Prince of Azerbeiján. It was conquered -by Sultán Súleimán, and is now the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to -Erzerúm. The khass is forty-eight thousand four hundred aspers, two ziamets, -and four hundred and twenty-five timárs, with the Jebellís, two thousand men, -besides one thousand men of the Páshá’s troops, all Kurds of the tribe Mahmudí. -The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers; there is no Serdár, -Kiaya-yerí, Muftí, or Nakíb, but there is a Disdár.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis.</i></h3> - -<p>It is three journies distance (if you walk fast) from Erzerúm, and is a square, -strong built castle, in the centre of a piece of high table land, surrounded on all -sides by lofty mountains. The height of the castle wall is ten cubits, it is six -thousand paces in circumference, with a gate to the north. In the eastern -quarter of the castle is a clear fountain. Below the castle, at the foot of the -wall, is an iron grating, which intercepts the stream, and distributes its water into -the gardens. The gate of the castle is near this spring; there are within the -castle twelve hundred Kurdish houses, and seven mosques, a khán, a bath, and some -small streets; the houses are all covered with earth, and no bricks are to be seen. -The inhabitants are all Mahmúdí Kurds, rich in sheep and goats; every year -they repair with their cattle to the mountains of Boyúk-gol-yaila. Here the Beg -of Melázjerd, in his quality of sanjak Beg of Erzerúm, came with three thousand -well-armed Mahmúdí Kurds. He was invested with a robe of honour, and presented -with a Chelenk, and took the van of the army. Ghazí Sídí Ahmed Páshá, -commanding an army of fifty-three thousand men, with twelve guns and two -culverins, directed his march from Khinis to Shúshík, and the Páshá, our master, -remained with twelve hundred men on the field of Khinis. We now marched to -the east, through precipices, for six hours, till we came to Khássík, a Kurdish -village of two hundred houses, and I, poor Evliyá, advanced with two hundred -horse to the castle of Zia-ud-dín, nine hours further; it is a strong castle in the -territory of Azerbeiján, built by the Princes of that name. It is the frontier of the -sanjak of Khinis; its keys were surrendered to the Ottomans after the conquest -of Ván, and the inhabitants were exempted from all duties. There is no Serdár -and Kiaya-yerí; there is a mosque and six hundred houses, with terraces and -lower stories only, a khán, a bath, and from forty to fifty shops. The inhabitants -are brave and honest.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Hot-bath.</i></h3> - -<p>Between the river Aras, the lake of Ván, and the castle of Arjesh, is a famous -hot-bath, in the neighbourhood of the castle Zia-ud-dín. It is a curious fact that -the springs rise in five or six different places; at some of them the water is as -cold as ice, in others it boils like gruel. Here is a spring so cold that the -hand cannot bear it, and close to it one in which eggs and sheep’s feet are -cooked. Only one of these hot springs is covered with a cupola, the rest are -exposed to the open air; every one is large enough to drive a mill. We now -turned to the west, along the mountains of Súnjáb-Ainí, and arrived after nine -hours at the castle of Atík, built like the former, by Zia-ud-dín, the Prince of -Azerbeiján; it is a square castle on a rock.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by Zia-ud-dín, the son of Sultán Hassan, and is a square castle, on -the top of a high rock. The camp was fixed at the distance of a gunshot from -the castle, and the siege began immediately. As soon as the Mussulman victors -opened the trenches, all the guns were fired from the castle, and seventy men -fell to the ground as martyrs. The Commander, Sídí Ahmed Páshá, exhorting -the Begs, Beglerbegs, and other officers, with sweet words and presents and himself -making all possible exertions, brought four cannons on to the heights opposite -the eastern side of the castle, which being fired, killed Chendán Beg, the nephew -of the Beg of the castle. At the same moment a great lamentation arose in the -castle, and the Ottoman victors began to ascend the breaches by ladders; in short, -the siege lasted twenty-four hours, and the next day the flags of truce were -planted on the battlements, and all the Kurds were crying Amán! Amán! O -chosen family of Osmán! The commander, Sídí Ahmed Páshá, with his first -Colonel, went to the gates of the castle, from which came out seven Kurdish Begs -as hostages; they said, “On this night Mustafa Beg, our Beg, deserted the castle -and fled to the Persians.” Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave no credit to this report, and -told them to find their Beg, lest they might have their hands cut like sheeps’ feet; -he fettered them, put seven hundred men into the castle, confiscated all the goods -found in the palace of the Beg, disarmed the Kurds, collected three thousand -muskets and six thousand swords and other arms, and sent the merry news to my -Lord, Mohammed Páshá. The same day the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was proclaimed -in the castle; two thousand muskets and many guns were fired as a salute; -the whole district of Shúshík, up to the Persian frontier, was ravaged and pillaged, -and the Moslím victors enriched with the booty of some hundred thousand sheep, -oxen and mules. Men were sent into the interior of the country in search of the -Beg, but only found a spy, whose nose and ears were in the first place slit, but at -the moment the executioner was about to cut off his head, he implored the Páshá’s -mercy, saying that he had something of importance to communicate to him. He -said that the Beg of Shúshík had fallen into the hands of the Persian Khán of -Magú, and was imprisoned there. Bákí Páshá, Katgáj Páshá, and Dilawer Páshá, -with the Beg of Melázjerd, Mohammed Beg, with three thousand men, were -ordered to go in search of the Beg of Shúshík at the castle of Magú. I, poor -Evliyá, was also in the expedition. We marched across the Minváldereh amidst -the mountains, and at the end of eight hours, reached the tomb of Tahmúrass -Khán, a Persian, who was killed in the war of Cighálezadeh, and buried at this -spot; here are two hundred Armenian houses, which pay tribute to the Beg of -Shúshík, and to the Persians. We advanced for seven hours through a woody<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> -country, and for two more through flowery fields, and arrived at the castle of -Magú, built by Núshirván. The Kurds submitted to Súleimán, who made a present -of this castle to the Beg of the Mahmúdí tribe. The Persians took it from -them, and it is now subordinate to the governor of Melázjerd. In the time of the -grand Vezír of Sultan Murad IV. Kara Mustafa Páshá, after the conquest of -Baghdád, went to Derne and Derteng, in order to settle the boundary; my lord, -Melek Ahmed Páshá, my gracious protector, was then Governor of Diarbekr, and -named on this commission for settling the frontiers and renewing the peace. The -Ottomans had laid waste the castle of Zálim, in the province of Shehrzol, and -the Persians that of Kotúr, in the province of Ván. The Ottomans also took -possession of Magú, and transferred the Beg and the garrison to Melázjerd. -Under the pretext of the rebellion of the Beg of Shúshík, the Persians laid hold -of Magú, which is a fortress, like the castles of Ván, Márdín, Shuban Kara, Afiún -Kara Hissár, A’adil Jiwás, Tokát, and Amasia.</p> - - -<h3><i>Size and Form of Magú.</i></h3> - -<p>It is situated on a high and steep rock, the base of which is thin and narrow, -and towers into the skies, being inaccessible on all sides. There is but one gate to -which you ascend by a small staircase cut in the rock like a minareh. Seven hundred -houses afford lodgings to two thousand musketeers of Mazenderán, commanded -by a Sultán (Beg) subordinate to the Khán (Páshá, governor) of Eriván. -The drawbridge which leads over the river, to the Castle, is raised every night, -and it thus becomes entirely isolated; the water is raised by ropes of one hundred -fathoms length. The Khán descended with one thousand of his serving men (Dízchoken -Túlúnkí), and gave a grand entertainment to Bákí Páshá, who, after -dinner, requested that the Beg of Shúshík might be given up to him: this was -done accordingly, and he was carried to Sídí Ahmed Páshá, who came on the seventh -day to Khinis, and delivered him to Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, -who spared his life, but put him into prison. Forty thousand sheep, forty horses, -seventeen strings of mules, twenty Georgian slaves, and fifty purses were taken -from him, he was afterwards released, but his castle was given to Mohammed the -Beg of Melázjerd, who furnished twenty purses, twenty strings of mules, a great -number of furs and skins of lynxes and leopards; the Moslím victors returned in -safety with their booty to Erzerúm. On the same day after seven hours, we -reached the village of Alajalar; it is situated on the border of Aras, under the -command of the castle of Bayazíd, and consists of three hundred Armenian -houses. Here our gracious Lord gave a grand entertainment to the Persian -Envoys of the Kháns of Eriván, Nakhshiván and Tabríz, and gave each of them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span> -letters of amity, with a couple of Arabian horses, beads of coral, bow and arrows, -and Genoese and Venetian cloth. He told them in his speech, that in order to -satisfy the Khán of Eriván he had reduced the Beg of Shúshík, but that he hoped -now that the Persians on their side would fulfil with equal faithfulness the conditions -of the peace, and therefore evacuate the castle of Shúshík, and give it back -to the Ottomans, if not, that he as Commander-in-Chief would ravage the districts -of Eriván and Nakhshiván. The three envoys kissed the ground and were -invested with Persian sable pelisses. The Kelárjí Velí Agha was sent with the -Envoy to Eriván; Alaja Atlí Hassan with the second to Nakhshiván, and I poor -Evliyá in quality of Clerk of the Custom-house was named to go with letters and -presents in the third Envoy’s company to Tabríz, to arrange the commercial -affairs. I took two horses richly caparisoned to the Khán, handkerchiefs, beads -of pearl, and a magnificent quiver. I received myself, on setting out on my -journey, a purse of money, and a robe of honour, and was accompanied by ten -servants, and ten men of all arms, altogether forty-five men. I took leave of the -Páshá, and set out trusting in the Lord for Nakhshiván and Eriván.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia.</i></h3> - -<p>On the first day, we travelled for the space of eight hours along the Aras, -towards the east, and arrived at the village Yailajak, partly Armenian and partly -Moslím, subordinate to the Castle of Anek. Further eastward we came to Barúd -Kháneh belonging to the Castle Shúshík, consisting of three hundred houses; saltpetre -is produced here. Sixteen hours further is the station of Kendúsh Kia, on -the banks of a torrent called Okhdere; we pitched our tents here in a flowery -meadow amidst beds of tulips. Twelve hours further on is the station of Chághla-ghúrna, -the inhabitants are Kurds. We saw the castle of Shúshík, on our left on -high rocks, and were saluted by it with seven guns. The new Beg also sent us a -quantity of provisions. Here we parted company with Kássim Khán, the Envoy -of Eriván, who went to the left, while I poor Evliyá took the road on the right -to Nakhshiván. After having travelled thirteen hours through a mountainous -tract, we came to Karish, the first town in Persia. It was built by Shárokh, the -son of Timúr, and then came into the power of Uzún Hassan the Prince of Azerbeiján. -Its castle is situated on a high peak, is square and built of stone, an -elegant yet strong fortress, garrisoned by one thousand Dizchoken Túlúnkí. They -saluted us contrary to our wishes, by firing eighteen guns, the report of which was -re-echoed among the neighbouring hills. We encamped at the foot of the castle, -and visited the town at our leisure. It was formerly a large town, but is now in -ruins, in consequence of the pillage it suffered at the time of the expedition to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span> -Eriván by Sultán Murad IV. when the troops of Erzerúm, Achika and Karrs -revolted, and plundered this town of Karish. There are seven mosques with -minarehs, three baths, and gardens and vineyards in abundance. The town is -situated on the banks of the river Karish, which issues from Mount Súkún, and -flows to the Aras. The Agha of the Castle invited me with the envoy to a feast, -and our horses with difficulty ascended to the castle in half an hour. The Agha -of the garrison dressed in an odd way, and giving us welcome, invited us to his -house, from which a beautiful view may be enjoyed. He treated us to eleven -sorts of pilaw and a great number of other good dishes; he presented me, the -envoy, and Alaja Atlí Hassan, with leopard skins, and sent after us when we had -returned to our tents, a present of fifty sheep, one thousand loaves of white -bread, and from seven to eight mule-loads of delicious fruits, with several sorts of -sherbet. We kept the great feast (Bairám) here, remained a couple of days, and -were then entertained with a sumptuous dinner in a garden. Returning from the -garden we took a view of the outside of the mosque of Evhad Allah, it is an -incomparable mosque with a well-proportioned minareh; near it is the bath of -Táj-ud-dín Munshí, and seven Kháns. The beautiful women of the place have -such fine and brilliant eyes, that one glance from them delights the heart more than a -thousand from others. The next morning three hundred Persian horsemen joined us, -and accompanied us on our way, which led through a mountainous tract, thirteen -hours towards the east, to the station of the village of Kend Massír; Kend is the -Persian word signifying the same as the Turkish Kassaba (small town). It is -situated on the border of Mount Massír, and consists of one thousand houses -with earthen roofs, surrounded with gardens, seven mosques, three baths, and -three hundred shops. It is the seat of a Kelenter (provost) subordinate to Eriván. -We advanced fourteen hours to Kend Zúh Khán, on the frontier of Nakhshiván -belonging to its khass, it is a flourishing small town. Here we took two -Persian boys, who delighted us with their songs. We now proceeded for seven -hours through a wide valley, where we saw immense trees, to Uch Kilisse. On -the top of a mountain are three great convents, in each of which lodge a couple -of hundred priests and monks. Fine youths serve the strangers who divert themselves -here. One of these three convents was built by Núrshirván, the second by -the Greek Emperor, the third by an Armenian lady, which is now inhabited by -more than five hundred nuns, who eat nothing but dry roots; but they serve -milk, dates and sweetmeats to stranger’s, and take care of their goods and horses. -These three Armenian convents are celebrated amongst all Christians, and are -therefore well endowed. In each of them are from five to ten guest-masters, and -from forty to fifty cooks. The Abbot of these convents gave to me and the -envoys, a grand entertainment, and presents after dinner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Curiosities of Uch Kilisse.</i></h3> - -<p>At the grand convent built by Núrshirván, every year forty or fifty thousand -Infidels assemble from all countries of Christianity, to witness the solemnity of an -old carpet being spread on the top of the mountain. They collect all useful and -medical herbs growing on these mountains, and throw them into a boiling kettle -which stands upon this carpet; these herbs remain boiling more than an hour in -the kettle on the carpet, which receives no harm, to the great astonishment of -many thousand spectators. The herbs are then distributed amongst the people, -some of whom carry them to their own countries, others eat them on the spot. -I talked with the monks about this, who assured me that the carpet was the same -on which Jesus fell when issuing from Mary’s womb; when shut up in a cave -with his twelve disciples for fear of the Israelites, they cooked their herbs on this -carpet, which to witness the miraculous power of Jesus, restored a dead man to -life. It is the same carpet on which Jesus gave a dinner to the Israelites. The -carpet then passed into the hands of Núrshirván, who when building the Convent -gave it to it as an endowment. When Sultán Súleimán went to the siege of -Eriván he performed a double prayer on this carpet. It is neither cotton nor silk, -but of variegated colours and very heavy. I, poor Evliyá, am of opinion that it is -of asbestos, a stone which is found in the island of Cyprus, and worked into linen -and paper, handkerchiefs, shirts, &c., which are brought as presents to the great -men of Constantinople. Sultán Murád said to his sister Kia Sultán (Kia signifies -rock) the Lady of my gracious Lord, Melek Ahmed Páshá. “Lady Rockby! as -your name is rocky, I’ll give you a shirt of stone,” and really gave her a shirt, -which, when dirty, was cleansed by throwing it into the fire. Great men have -abundance of asbestos linen; Captain Hassám-zadeh gave me such a handkerchief, -which having become dirty, in the presence of Melek Páshá, I threw into the fire, -when it became as pure as a white rose. God knows whether this carpet is not -also made of this Cyprian stone. We left Uch Kilisse and passed towards the -east through cultivated fields and populous villages, so that we did not see a cubit -of ground which was not productive or cultivated, and arrived after eight hours -march at a well cultivated village on the border of Mount Sokún, like a small -town. We counted no less than eleven minarehs, but as I was indisposed I -did not examine it well.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage to Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a great Convent of Begtáshís; more than three hundred came with drums -beating and banners flying to give us welcome: a crowd of poor fellows all in -raptures of divine love, by the prayers of whom I was restored to health. Next<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> -day we crossed a plain for thirteen hours, and halted three times on it. At the -southern end of this field we pitched our tents on the bank of the great river -Zengí, where the people of all the Kents of the neighbourhood, flocking together, -brought us abundance of provisions as presents, so that our servants feasted as -if they were as many Ma’adí Karbs, and our horses feasted on trefoil and -other luxuriant herbs, so that their bellies swelled like wine-skins. The river -Zengí issues on the south from the mountains of Khárán, flows to the North, -supplying water to many thousand Kents, and then joins the Aras, which falling -into the Kúr (Cyrus) runs into the Caspian sea. We continued our journey -hunting hares, and came at the end of ten hours to the Kent Sídreghí, a Wakf of -Imám Riza in the territory of Nakhshiván. It is a flourishing Kent of about -one thousand houses surrounded with gardens. The inhabitants are all Shi’ís. -The hot-spring of Sídreghí is outside of the town close to the vineyards; this -hot-spring is covered with a large cupola, and in the large basin the Persian -youths swim like silver fishes; they amuse themselves by disporting in the water, -and singing with melodious voices. Fourteen hours further to the east, we came -to Zavieí Ahmed Beg, consisting of five hundred houses, in the territory of -Nakhshiván. Here are three mosques, one of which was built by Zál Páshá-zadeh -Ahmed, when governor of Nakhshiván, in the style of the mosques at Constantinople. -This is the reason why the Persians called this Kent (borough) the cell -(zavie) of Ahmed Páshá; the whole borough is appropriated to the endowment -of this mosque. We passed during sixteen hours through many cultivated Kents -(boroughs) until we reached the large town Kara-bághlar, first built by Menúchehr, -it is the seat of a Sultán (Beg) in the territory of Nakhshiván, it was -wrested from the Ottomans by the Persians in the time of Mohammed III. and -laid waste by the army of Sultán Murád IV., so that now ruins are only to be -seen. Timúr passed a winter in perfect quietness at Karabághlar; Suleimán Khán -and other commanders-in-chief were stationed here at different times for five or -six months in the greatest affluence. This place is now recovering from the -havoc made by Sultán Murad IV., but in comparison with its former state, it is -not as an atom in the sun, nor a drop in the ocean. Our servants counted forty -minarehs, and according to the report of our Mihmándár it consisted of ten thousand -houses with gardens and vineyards, and seventy mosques (forty of which -have minarehs), a great number of Kháns, baths and markets. The mildness of -the air contributes to the beauty of the inhabitants; the variety of fruits which -abound here, is no where else to be met with. Taking a walk with the Envoy in -a garden, the gardener brought us twenty-six different kinds of pears, the best -are the Meleje, Abbássí, Ordúbaí, which when eaten, inundates the mouth and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span> -hands with rich juice, like jelly or sirup; there are also ruby-coloured pomegranates. -In the cleanly cookshops you find pilaw of Eriván, with excellent -herísse (fricassee). The cooks are extremely clean because they are all Moslíms, -and in the whole of Persia eatables are never sold by Armenians or Greeks; indeed -there are no Greeks at all in Persia, except a few travelling merchants, but there -are a great many Shi’ítes and Jews being the sect of the Teberraites and Karaites. -There are also Mulhads (impious); Zindíks, (atheists); Ja’aferites, Jeberites, -Kadrites, Húrúfites, Zimínites, and other such heretics. After having taken a -good view of the gardens at Karabágh we departed, and in seven hours reached -the fortress of Nakhshiván, which by some is spelt Nakhjíván, (the cosmetic water -of all the towns of Irán;) it is the seat of a Khán (answering to the Turkish -Páshá) on the frontier of Azerbeiján and Avján. Its officers are an Itimád-ud-devlet -(minister); Kelenter, (provost, in Turkish Súbashí); a Múnshí, (secretary, -otherwise Kiatib); a Dárogha, an Agha of the Dízchoken (the troops) a judge -and a muftí. It was originally built by Sháh Efrasiáb, and the cupolas are shewn -where his ancestors are said to be buried; in their times it was extremely -populous and cultivated: it was then pillaged by the Moghols, who levelled the -castle with the dust; Sháh Ismaíl rebuilt it, and in the reign of Mohammed III. -it was taken possession of by Zúltakár Khán, and again conquered in the time of -Sultán Murad IV. by Tabán Yassí Mohammed Páshá. Such is the state of the -world where nothing remains unchanged, but every thing perishes except His -(God’s) face. After Sultán Murad’s conquest it consisted of twelve thousand -houses with terraces, seventy mosques, forty mesjíds, twenty kháns, seven baths, -and one thousand shops. The air is mild, but as it has few gardens, it has also -but few fruits, one of its best products, is cotton of seven colours, black, yellow, -ruby-coloured and of the purest white. The corn and wheat of Nakshiván is -praised every where. Above all its painted linen and its Chít (chintz) deserve to be -recommended. Its barley is so rich, that if a horse eats four grains of it, it is -satiated; its gardens are repositories of melons and water-melons. The youth -are all fair and white on account of its excellent air, they wear the Persian turban, -Táj, and robes of painted cotton and Chít (chintz) breeches of different colours, -and green, red and orange-coloured papúshes. The women wear pointed caps on -which they wrap white muslin, and boots of various colours. The fashionable -young men wear pelisses of Isfahán, and walk with great pomp and dignity, -but they are wholly attached to women. The people pretend to be of the -orthodox sect of Sháfií although they are Persians, but this is a foul lie, they are -Ja’aferites, who, however, keep the regular prayer hours five times a day, but -never in company. They have some very fine mosques, every one of which may<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> -be compared to Eden, they are lined with painted pottery, and at some, the cupolas -are covered in the same manner, there are thirty-three minarehs in the style -of those of Constantinople; that of Ahmed Páshá exactly resembles that of -Rostán Páshá at Constantinople. The bath of Jenání is very pleasant, the walls -are faced with porcelain, and the floor is paved; the waiters are black-eyed -youths from Khoten, whose crystal white bodies are set off by the dark blue of their -aprons. Near the house where we lodged, as guests, is the bath of Zál Páshá, -which is also a soul-delighting bath, owing to its fine water and excellent attendance; -the walls are faced with porcelain, and the floor paved with jasper, -marble, and granite of various hues. In the large basin ten feet square, which is -underneath the cupola, the young people swim like angels of the sea: the bath-keeper -every day pours into the basin, a basket of rose-leaves, which attaching -themselves to the bodies of the bathers forms a kind of veil which is very becoming; -thus they sport and play like peacocks and doves, their nakedness being -covered by rose-leaves; in short this bath is so delightful that such poets as -Hassán and Selmán could not sufficiently praise it, how then could it be possible -for me, poor Evliyá, to succeed.</p> - -<p>Rich merchants are established in the market, who trade by land and sea, each -of whom is as rich as Karún; the inhabitants are all given to pleasure, and -pass part of every day in each other’s gardens. The Khán of Nakhshiván, Rísa-ud-din, -after having met us, carried us directly to one of his gardens, where he -read our letters to the principal men of Nakhshiván, and gave us an entertainment, -attended by so many singers and musicians, that it was equal to the feast -of Hossein Bikara. The Khán, a person of great repute, had been the treasurer -of Sultán Sifí, who had delivered the castle of Baghdád to Sultán Murad; he was -a man of great judgment, of Georgian extraction, and his name was Devlet Murád -Khán. After dinner he gave to Alaja Atlí Hassan, who came as envoy from -the Páshá, and to me, brilliant robes of honour, ten tománs of Abbássí, and a -horse, investing his own envoy also with a caftán. He has from forty to fifty -delightful companions excelling in various arts. The inhabitants of this town -generally speak the dialect Dihkáni, or of peasants, but they have poets who -speak the Pehleví and Moghol languages with elegance. The languages that are -spoken here, are the Dihkání or rough Persian; the Derí, or court language; the -Farsí, or pure but less elegant Persian; the Ghází and the Pehleví, two ancient -dialects.</p> - -<p>In the commentary of Dilemí, it is reported that the Prophet asked Michael -“whether God ever spoke any thing in Persian;” and Michael replied,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span> “yes, -that there were some passages in the books which Abraham received from -Heaven:” and the Prophet answered, “whoever ridicules the Ghází dialect is an -Infidel”.</p> - -<p>The Turkomans, Gokdúlák and Moghols, who are settled in the different districts, -again speak other dialects. All these districts are defended by strong -castles, some of which I passed on hunting parties, without having leisure to -examine them properly. The names of these castles are:—Alánjak Ván, built -by Molla Kotb-ud-dín; Serán, Sersú, and Semaraván, built by Merván Ibn-al-himár. -The names of Persian towns almost all terminate as follows:—in Tartary -the castles are named, Cherkers Kermán, Kiresh Kermán, Sháhin Kermán, -Irbát Kermán, In Kermán, Ghází Kermán, Uzí Kermán, and Ak Kermán. The -names of Polish fortresses are Kamanija (Kaminiuk), and Alúnjissa. The names -of fortresses in Transylvania terminate in ár, as Sakmár, Sakswár, Oivár, &c. -The German fortresses are Iran, Comoin, Tata, Papa, Santmarton, Posonium, Bedj -(Vienna), the latter is the residence of the German Emperor. Amongst the -names of Ottoman towns, those of the Holy land are the most sounding. The -whole Ottoman Empire consists of seventy seats of Begler-Begs, three hundred -and sixty sanjak Begs, and thirteen hundred and eighty strong castles. May -they all remain in the power of the Ottoman family until the end of the World. -Amen! The names of Persian castles will be given in the course of our travels.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_FROM_NAKHSHIVAN_TO_TABRIZ">JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ.</h2></div> - - -<p>From Nakhshiván we proceeded for eight hours towards the Kiblah, and arrived -at the place Kessik Kunbed, containing one thousand houses with gardens, three -mosques, a Khán and Hamám.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara.</i></h3> - -<p>The inhabitants of the kent told us, that it was the tomb of the son of Hossein -Bikara, but on the marble coffin was written Murád Ibn Beháder Shefád Ibn -Hossein Bákara. It is a high cupola, and the tomb-keeper is one of the descendants -of Hossein Bikara. We continued our journey from hence seven hours -along the Arash, which rises in the mountains of the Curds Bínpánshí, in the -province of Ván, flows to the North and joins the river Zenghí. It may be -crossed on horseback. We now advanced for some time amongst gardens, and -arrived at Karabágh, a town of Azerbeiján, which was built by one of the princes of -this country, and ruined by Koja Ferhád Páshá one of the Vezírs of Sultán Mohammed -the conqueror of Erla. The traces of havock are still to be seen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span></p> - -<p>When Sultán Murad IV., on his expedition to the conquest of Eriván, came to -this country, he again pillaged the town, which is just now rising from its ruins. -It is the seat of a Sultán, who commands one thousand men. Its officers are a -Kelenter, Darogha, Múnshí, Bínbáshí, and Dizchoken-agassí. The town is -situated on a beautiful wide plain, and consists of three thousand houses, seven -mosques, seven baths, three kháns, and six hundred shops. The youth of both -sexes are pretty; the products good and plentiful; the air salubrious and the -water excellent; it is adorned and surrounded with gardens. Among the fruits -deserve to be mentioned twelve different sorts of ruby-coloured grapes, and -eighteen sorts of cherries; some of its quinces are of the size of a man’s head. -Its waters are carried in some places through subterraneous conduits, and are -most refreshing in summer time. The cupolas of the mosques are built in the old -style of architecture, that is to say, pointed, and are covered with china of -different colours; eleven minarehs are conspicuous, but there are altogether -seventy mihrábs. The inhabitants have been exempted from the payment of all -gifts and duties, on condition that they would rebuild the town; they only contribute -annually to the Sháh of Irán an hundred camel-loads of dried fruits. In -short, there are three towns in Azerbeiján called Karabágh, each of which is a -garden resembling Paradise. We went from hence turning towards the Kiblah, -and arrived at the place where the river Irs joins that of Shán. We crossed it -amidst a thousand difficulties; it collects its waters from the mountains of -Punyánshí (Bínpánshí?) Bíredos, and Bághassí. Three stations below the plain -of Nakhshiván the Irs runs into the Zenghí, the Zenghí into the Aras, the Aras -into the Kúr, the Kúr into the Terek, (?) and the Terek into the Caspian Sea. -After having crossed the river we came in six hours to Kent Kerken, which is -situated in the province of Tabríz on the frontier of Merend, consisting of three -hundred houses, a mosque, a khán, and a bath; but the inhabitants are extremely -uncivil Persians; they are all cotton weavers, of which their plain produces a large -quantity; bogassins of various colours are manufactured here.</p> - -<p>After a march of nine hours towards the Kiblah, we arrived at the kent of -Zeneves, one thousand well-built houses, ten mosques, a khán, and bath. Ten -hours further on, towards the Kiblah, is the town of Tessúí; it is situated on the -frontier of Merend and the bank of the Irs, and has three thousand houses with -terraces, seven mosques, three baths, and six kháns. Its Sultán commands one -thousand armed men; there is a Kelenter and Darogha, a Múnshí and Kádhí. It -was also destroyed by Murad IV., and is now recovering from its ruins; it is -twelve farsangs distant from the town of Merend; the fruits of Tessúí are celebrated. -The inhabitants are Shiítes, who live by gardening. We now passed to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> -the south, drinking fresh water from wells, because the greatest part of the water -is here subterraneous, and at the end of twelve farsangs we reached the town of -Merend, the residence of the Khán of Elvend, and the seat of a Sultán commanding -one thousand men. Its authorities are a Kelenter, Darogha, Munshí, and -Dizchoken Aghá. The interval of fourteen farsangs between here and Tabríz is -all well cultivated ground. Merend lies to the east of Tabríz. It was formerly -a hunting place of Sháhrokh, the son of Timúr, and was in a flourishing state, but -Sultán Murad IV. laid it waste; there are now three thousand houses, seven -mosques, three kháns, five baths and six hundred shops, but no Bezestán, no -colleges nor abecedarian schools; but praise must be given to its seventy fine -walks and gardens, each of which outrivals those of Eden. Its youth of both -sexes are pretty and eloquent. The inhabitants are for the most part military -men, all the sect of the Shiítes; on the Kiblah side of the town is the tomb -of Hossein Teftazání, one of the ancestors of the great Teftazání, also of Alí -Khándí, Sheikh Súsemári, and Alí-ud-dín. We received presents from the -Sultán of this town, and went on seven hours, on the Kiblah side, through roads -planted on both sides with willows and planes, so that we always travelled in the -shade, sheltered against the rays of the sun. We halted at the wells, and arrived -at Kent Kuherín, belonging to the Secretary of the Khán of Tabríz, of one thousand -houses, six mosques, three baths, and two great palaces. It is an extremely -flourishing kent. May God destroy it! because they are all Shiítes, and because -I heard here for the first time, curses uttered against Omar. Allah confound -them! I was obliged to listen quietly to those obloquies, though I had a great -mind to kill the rascal, which I might have done without incurring much responsibility, -because envoys travelling from Rúm to Persia are free in all their actions, -even if they should kill a Persian.</p> - -<p>We now marched six hours further to Kent Sehlán, which is the khass of the -Khán of Tabríz, situated in a plain, consisting of one thousand houses, seven -mosques, a khán, a bath and some small markets (Súk). Its streets are all -planted with willows and planes. The inhabitants of Tabríz have their koshks -and pleasure-houses in this kent; the inhabitants of the place pretend to be -Sháfiítes, but are all cursed Ráfedites; the young people and the air of the place -is praiseworthy. As we continued our journey, we saw on our right, the high -cupola of Ghazán Mohammed Sháh towering into the skies, conspicuous at six -hours distance. We said a Fátihah to his memory, halted on a fine meadow, and -sent a messenger to Tabríz. After three hours we mounted our horses for the -solemn entry, I and the Envoy of Tabríz side by side; before the envoy marched -his soldiers well dressed, and before me forty persons composing my train; the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span> -Kiaya of the Khán of Tabríz came to meet us in solemn pomp (Istikbál), and -accompanied by him we made our entrance into the town of Tabríz, where many -thousand persons in the market were collected to stare at us; our march from the -town-gate to the palace of the Khán at the other extremity of the town lasted -for two hours. The Khán received us in his Diván, where a great Council was -assembled, the Persian music consisting of kettle-drums and trumpets were three -times sounded, and the troops paraded. After the music was over, I got up, and -drew forth from my breast the letter of Defterdár-zadeh Mohammed Páshá, the -governor of Erzerúm, giving it into the hand of the Khán, who got up and kissed -it, and put it on his head. The Ishek Aghá (master of the ceremonies) then -shewed me my place, where I stood in the Mohammedan fashion. The Khán -gave the letter to his secretary (Múnshí), who kissed it respectfully, and read it -with a loud voice. At the mention of God’s name, and the Prophet’s name, all -stood up praising the Prophet, but at the mention of his four friends, some looked -askance (not liking to hear Omar mentioned amongst them.)</p> - -<p>The reading being finished the Khán said: “With the aid of God I will send -to my honourable brother the Vezír of the Emperor, before a month elapses, a -caravan of a hundred horses, and one of a hundred camels.” Then adding different -kind greetings and words, he made us sit down close to him, and ordered the -repast to be brought in. After dinner, I delivered the pearl beads, the quiver -and the Venetian stuffs, which, said I, “the Páshá has furnished me with, that -I may not appear before your Excellency with empty hands; he has added to -these two Arabian horses of high breeding, which shall now make their appearance, -if your Excellency would be pleased to see them.” He rose up, and we -came to the end of the room; the horses richly caparisoned were on the signal -given by me led into his presence: they came dancing and capering to the great -astonishment of all the gentlemen of the Diván; saying, “Bismillah!” I gave the -bridle of the horse into the hands of the Khán, adding “Mobarek-bád” (Be it -prosperous!) The Khán took some turns on the horse, riding without stirrups -in the fashion of Persian horsemanship. I then presented him with the second -horse (Yelkendiz), with which he was no less satisfied, and sent it to his stable. -At a signal by the Khán all our servants were served with sherbet, rosewater -and incense was repeated; and we were then given in to the care of the Mihmándár, -Kúrújí-báshí, Darogha, and Kelenter. The latter conducted us to his -garden, where we remained. The Khán sent me forty tománs bath-money, a -caparisoned horse (Karajabuk), with an elegant saddlecloth, and seven camel-loads -of provisions. The public cryers now published, throughout the town, an -order of the Khán to make known that an Ottoman embassy of Sunnís having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> -arrived, every body should be cautious of insulting them, lest they might be killed -by the Sunnís. They curse neither Abúbekr nor Osmán, but Omar gives them a -terrible head-ache, and they cannot refrain from injuring him by slanderous words. -The same day the Khán sent us ten fine youths all dressed in embroidered cloth. -They were led by our Mihmándár to kiss our hands, according to the ancient -etiquette by which the Kháns of Persia used to send ten fine youths as servants -to the Ottoman Envoys. We now began to take a view of the town.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz.</i></h3> - -<p>In the Moghol language it is called Túris; in the Derí dialect, Táríz; in the -Dihkání, Tábríz; and in the Farsí, Tabríz: in all these dialects, <i>tab</i> signifies -fever, and <i>ríz</i> pouring [dispersing], because the air is so salubrious, and the water of -Aján so good, that people who come from regions where fever prevails, completely -recover here; the fortress of Cairo is also a place where no fever is to be found. -Tabríz was founded by Zobeide, Harún Rashíd’s wife, who, when pregnant with -Mamún, built a pleasure-house here on account of the excellent air. Afterwards -a large town was built at an immense expense, and of such extent that it took -three days to go round it. In the time of Calíf Motevekel, it was ruined by an -earthquake which destroyed forty thousand men. Motevekel came himself from -Baghdád to rebuild the town at the expense of immense treasure. It rests on -one side upon mount Aján, on another side upon mount Sehlán, on a third side -upon mount Senján, and on the fourth upon the Maiden’s mount (Kiztágh). The -actual circumference of Tabríz, is six thousand paces, there are three hundred -towers, three thousand battlements, and six gates, viz., that of Aján, of Berserván, -of Serzúd, and of Shámnemázán, each of which is guarded by five hundred watchmen. -The third builder of Tabríz was Húlagú, who resided here seven years, and -embellished it wonderfully: Mohammed Khodabende Ibzárgún Sháh transferred -the whole palace, built by Húlagú, on camels to his new built town. The timber -used in the buildings was all cypress and aloe wood, and they have been faced -with china ever since. The fourth builder was Mohammed Sháh Ghazán, who -extended the boundaries to the mountains of Senján, Aján, and Sehlán, and -surrounded it with a wall, which required four days to make a tour of it. The -town formerly built by Motevekel became then the inner castle or citadel of the -new town. In the year 959, it was taken by Sultán Suleimán, who did not ravage -it, but made a present of it to Sháh Elkáss Mirza. In the year 994 (1585), it -was taken by the Persians. In the reign of Murad III., Uzdemir-oghlí Murad -Páshá undertook the expedition into Persia with an immense army, the van -of which was led by Jighála-oghlí Sinám. Osmán Páshá, one of his generals, took -the town of Tabríz out of the hands of the Sháh.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span></p> - -<p>To defend this town a strong citadel was then built of twelve thousand seven -hundred cubits, which seems as though it had been built by Ferhád, and on the -gate of which the name of Uzdemir is inscribed. Uzdemir Páshá, the fifth builder, -finished the castle in thirty-six days, and filled it with all necessary stores, and a garrison -of forty thousand men. But he was not so happy as to perform the Friday’s -prayer, having died before it; the whole army proclaimed Jighála-zadeh Sinám their -commander, who was not however confirmed in his place by the Porte, which when -made acquainted with the news, named Khándin Ja’affer Páshá, formerly Governor -of Tripolis; under whose government the flourishing state of Tabríz excelled even -that at the time of Sultán Gházán. According to the description made in his -time, Tabríz reckoned eighty thousand houses, and three hundred thousand -inhabitants. During the troubles which took place soon afterwards by the -rebellion of the troops, it happened, that the Persians became masters of Genje, -Shirván, Shamákhí, Eriván, Nakhshiván and Tabríz, until the time of vengeance -arrived in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. He conquered the fortress of Eriván -in seven days, ransacked the towns of Nakhshiván, Merend and Karabágh, -remained a week at Tabríz, levelled the palace of Sháh Abbás, and set fire to all -the wooden houses, so that only stone buildings, such as mosques and baths, -remained; after which havock he returned to Constantinople. Sháh Abbás -returned, conciliated the inhabitants, and began to restore it to its former -splendour. It is now the capital of Azerbeiján, and the seat of the Khán its -Governor, who commands ten thousand men. Its officers are the Muftí, Nakíb -or head of the Seids (Emírs), the Molla (Judge), Kelenter (Lieutenant of police), -Múnshí, (Secretary), Darogha (Provost), Kúrújí-báshí (chief of the guards of the -woods and heaths), Dízchoken Aghá, (commander of the garrison), Chiyek-yeyen -Aghá (another officer of the troops), Yassúl Aghá (Inspector of the -sentinels), and Ishek Aghá (Master of the Ceremonies) Mihmándár. These -public officers keep good order in the town of Tabríz, so that justice prevails -as it did in the time of Núrshírván, and no person can take a grain of mustard-seed -from another.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Mosques of Tabríz.</i></h3> - -<p>There are altogether three hundred and twenty mihrábs, nineteen of which -are Imperial mosques. The first is the old mosque of Zobeide, the cupola and -walls of which are all inlaid with china (fayence;) the mortar of the Mihráb having -been mixed with musk, exhales the sweetest perfume; its minareh is also entirely -inlaid with china. The mosque of Motevekel is a mosque in the old style, with -one minareh, which like the former is faced with china. In the course of time -the builder’s name has been lost, and it is now called Meshkieh. The mosque of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> -Sultán Mohammed Shám Ghazán, which was formerly a splendid mosque, is -now falling into decay in an obscure place; the mosque of Jihán Sháh Emín -is a high building with a dome vying with that of Ták Kesra, like the mosque -of Táher Bibars, at Cairo; its walls are white polished like Chinese paper, and -before the Mihráb is a fine garden, the scent of which perfumes the air. The -name of this fine mosque is Dihshetí-Behesht (terror of Paradise). The mosque -of Sultán Hassan, the Prince of Azerbeiján, the same who built the fortress of -Hassan Kala’a to the east of Erzerúm, and who was defeated by Sultán -Mohammed II. in the field of Terján. He is buried at this mosque, the cupolas -of which are inlaid with china inside and out; it is quite equal to the mosque of -Sultán Hassan at Cairo. The minber, mihráb and mahfil are adorned with such -elegant sculptures and carving, that the greatest masters of the present day -would not be able to finish it in that style; the windows shine with unparalleled -splendour, but the greatest masterpiece is conspicuous in the arabesques and -ornaments of the great gate. Above all the gates and windows are inscriptions in -the character of Yakút Mostea’assemí. On the side of the altar are two columns -of a yellow stone, each of which is worth the revenue of Irán and Turán: these -two columns have no equal, either in Egypt, Syria, Arabia, or Persia. The other -Imperial mosques are also faced with china, paved with marble and adorned with -paintings and suspended ornaments, so that each is quite a Chinese gallery. -These five mosques are not however so much frequented as those in Turkey, -because prayers are not performed in community, but singly by persons, who -enter and leave abruptly. Opposite to the mosque of Uzún Hassan is that of -Sháh Ismail, and near it that of Sháh Makssúd, the son of Sultán Hassan; the old -mosque of Chármenán, the mosque of Abbás the first, and the great mosque, -so large that from the great gate to the mihráb opposite, a man can hardly -be distinguished.</p> - - -<h3><i>Colleges of Tabríz.</i></h3> - -<p>There are forty-seven large Colleges, where lectures are held on all sciences; -the first is that of the lady of Sháh Jihán: and twenty rooms for reading the -Korán (Dár-ul-kira) but they read it wrong throughout all Persia. There are -seven houses for reading tradition (Dár-ul-hadíth), but the doctors of tradition -are not much renowned, because they confine themselves to the tradition of Alí -and the twelve Imáms, and have some thousand books on the traditions of Alí -alone; six hundred schools, where boys are taught to spell and read the Korán, and -are clothed once a year; one hundred and sixty convents of dervishes; six -fountains, which all issue from mount Semendán. The town is besides furnished -with seven canals of water, and there are one thousand and forty Sebíls, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> -places for distributing water, which are well covered. The town is divided into -one thousand and sixty quarters which are called Derveze. The water magazine -(serdáb) which was cleaned by Uzdemir Páshá furnishes the water of the canals. -One thousand and seventy palaces of great men, two hundred caravánseraïs, -seventy kháns for merchants and one hundred and ten for single workmen; -seven thousand market streets (Súk) many of which are vaulted like those of -Haleb; and a great Bezestán, which is the seat of the richest merchants, with -four iron gates.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Air and Climate.</i></h3> - -<p>By the mildness of the climate the inhabitants are all healthy and stout, with -red cheeks and black beards, merry faces, and lips like rose-buds; the women are -pretty, and conscious of the fairness of their skins are extremely proud; those -advanced in age are of sweet company, so that the proverb, “the old is -sweeter than the young,” may well be applied to them. The inhabitants are all -Shiís or Mulhad (impious), a great number are Dumbúlí, Khaljání, Turcomans, -and Gokdúlák. There are two thousand Ulemás, amongst whom are excellent -doctors, surgeons and oculists. There are more than seven thousand pious -Sheiks, who are much esteemed in this town, the inhabitants never do any thing -without consulting them, but their sect is not exactly known. Eighty-two most -eloquent poets, authors of Diváns. Yárí and Shábí are the Saíb and Unfí of -their time. Of the Mujazib or Santons (Saint fools) we saw Sherímí, whom no -person ever saw eating, drinking, lying down, sleeping, or performing any of the -natural offices of life for seventy years. The Persians are generally called Kizil-básh -or red heads, because they wrap red sashes round their heads, though many -of them also wear the Mohammedan white turban; but the cap is always -pointed, and that of the Ulemás, which is called Táj, or crown, is more than two -yards long. The great men wear sable.</p> - - -<h3><i>Account of the Persian Crown (Táj).</i></h3> - -<p>The shape is founded on a dream of Ibrahím, the founder of the dynasty of -Sefí; he dreamt that he bore a child to an ass, that had seventy fingers. This -dream having been interpreted as foreshadowing the Empire, he swore, that if it -should be fulfilled, he would commemorate the circumstance, by wearing an -asinine phallus in his turban, and by imitating the cries of the animal in music. -This is the reason why the Persian crown and head-dress have the present shape, -and why their music resembles the braying of an ass.</p> - -<p>The purity of the air drives away all fevers, and prolongs life to the age of one -hundred and seventy years. The water issues from mount Semenden, and is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> -distributed into more than nine hundred conduits and pipes, which furnish the -town with water. The water aids digestion, and like the air is rather cold. There -is also good water in wells, but the water of the canals is better; some of the wells -are from forty to fifty cubits deep, in the summer their water is cold, and in the -winter it is warm. Astrologers say that Tabríz was built by Zobeide, under the -influence of the sign of the scorpion when ruled by Mars, and that for this reason, -it has been so many times disturbed and ruined by rebels and by conquerors, such -as Timúr, Gengíz, Húlagú, and Murad IV.</p> - -<p>There are twenty-one pleasant baths each with one or two basins, a half soffa, -and fountains (jets d’eaux). The attendants are fine youths, the water and air -are excellent. Besides the public baths there are seven hundred private ones, -where the silver-bodied youth swim like angels of the sea. On the china or -fayence of these baths, is written the famous poem of Fozúlí, called the poem of -the bath (Kassideí Hamám). There are seven sorts of corn growing at Tabríz, -besides an abundance of barley. There are also seven sorts of cotton.</p> - - -<h3><i>Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c.</i></h3> - -<p>Painters, architects, goldsmiths, and tailors are nowhere to be found so perfect -as here. Precious stuffs manufactured here go all over the world; the velvet -is much renowned. The provisions consist of the white bread called Kerde, -and Súmún, cracknels, pastry, roasts, chicken pies, forty different kinds of pilaw -with spices, the Herisse and sweetmeat, Palúde. Among the abundance of delicious -fruits are particularly the pears and exquisite apricots, they are not found -in such perfection even at Constantinople. The beverages consist of seven sorts -of Muscat wine, the common wine of the Royal grape, the pomegranate, the -cherry wine, and oxymel; and for the common people búza of millet and -rice.</p> - -<p>There are some dining establishments for the poor, such as the Imáret of Sháh -Yakúb, of Sultán Motevekel, of Lady Zobeide, and of Sultán Hassan, large -buildings with kitchens worthy that of Keikavús, but in the hands of the Persians -they have all decayed.</p> - -<p>The principal walk is the mount Surkháb (Red-water) near Tabríz; at noon -the sea of Rúmie may be distinguished from the top of it; it is at a farsang distance -from Tabríz.</p> - -<p>The number of gardens amounts to forty-seven thousand, the finest is that of -Sháh Yakúb, where the Khán gave me a splendid entertainment. Eleven times -in the day, seventy dancers and singers exerted themselves in the practice of their -art, so that it resembled an evening party of Hossein Bikara. This garden owes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> -its origin to Koja Ferhád Páshá, Governor of Tabríz under Sultán Murad III., -who adorned it with numerous koshks, bowers and pleasure-houses; and at the -time of the pillage of the town by Murad IV., this garden was preserved by the -care of Osmán Aghá. The Chronostic of the koshk where we dined, alluding to -the name of the builder, says that, Ferhád built this sweet (Shirín) palace. The -walk of Sháh Sefí cannot be praised enough. It is the place of the Maïl; in the -centre of it two immense columns lift their tops up to Heaven; on one of them -every Friday a silver plate is put, which is aimed at by all the bowmen, who -shoot at it, encouraged by the presence of the Khán. On New Year’s day -(Nevrúz) or the beginning of spring, battles are fought in this place by horses -trained in the dark during forty or fifty days, by camels, buffaloes, sheep, asses, -dogs, and cocks. These fights are peculiar to Persia. Every year on the tenth of -the month Moharrem, being the feast of A’ashúra, all the population of the town -assemble under tents in this large place, and during three days and nights cook -many thousand dishes of A’ashúra (a kind of hotch-potch), in remembrance of the -martyrs of Kerbela; these dishes are distributed with an abundance of sugar-sherbet, -which is carried round in crystal vases, and cups of cornelian and -turquoise: at the same time singing certain verses, such as “Their Lord gave them -of the purest beverage.” Some of the great men on this day carry cans and tankards -round their necks, and go about distributing water like common porters. But the -finest show is in the variegated tent of the Khán, where all the great men of -Tabríz are assembled, and where a Hymn on the death of Hossein is recited, -in the same manner as the Hymn on the Prophet’s birthday is in the Turkish -mosques. The hearers listen, sighing and lamenting, but when the reciter -arrives at the passage where Hossein is killed by accursed Shabr, a curtain -opens behind him, and a severed head and trunk of a body, representing that of -the Imám when dead, is thrown on the ground, when there rises such an uproar -of cries and lamentations that everybody loses his wits. At this moment some -hundred men mingle in the crowd with razors, with which they cut the arms and -breasts of all loving believers, who desire to shed their blood on this day in remembrance -of the blood shed by the Imám; they make such deep incisions and -scars, that the ground appears as if it was blooming with tulips. Some thousands -brand the marks and names of Hassan and Hossein on their heads, arms, and -breasts. They then carry Hossein’s body away from the ground with much pomp, -and finish the ceremony with great howlings.</p> - -<p>The town has numerous fine walks and pleasure grounds, each of which may be -compared to the gardens of Ispúze and Merám. The beautiful koshks worthy to -be the seats of Sherín and Ferhád, of Wámik and Azra, are every where renowned;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> -but I must refrain from their praise and description, as I have yet so many other -things to mention. God be thanked! I remained here two months, which I spent -in full pleasure and delight, and I shall now give the description of the districts -and castles, which I visited in the Khán’s company. Round Tabríz are seven -districts, which furnish military men, whose office is to train birds and dogs for -hunting.</p> - -<p>The first is the district of Mehránrúd, five farsangs to the east of Tabríz, the -three places Koraúkendrút, Isfenj-kent, and Sa’ád-abád are like large towns, -with numerous mosques, kháns and baths. The second district is that of Sera-vurúd -on the west side of Tabríz; containing eighty well cultivated villages. The -third district is that of Dídeher, four farsangs south-west of Tabríz, twenty-four -kents with mosques, kháns, baths and gardens. The fourth district is that of -Ardenik, on the west side of Tabríz at only a farsang’s distance; thirty well -cultivated villages. The fifth district is that of Rúdkát behind mount Sorkháb, -and north of Tabríz, at a farsang’s distance from it; a hundred great kents with -gardens, mosques, markets, &c. The sixth district, that of Khánumrúd; twenty -elegant villages. The seventh, that of Bedostán behind Rúdkát; seventy -villages. If I were to describe minutely all the hunting and pleasure parties on -which I accompanied the Sháh for the space of twenty days, it would alone fill a -book, because Tabríz is like Isfahán, one of the finest towns in the world. God -grant its possession to the Ottomans, and keep it from ruin!</p> - - -<h3><i>Account of a curious Conversation.</i></h3> - -<p>One day being in company with the Sháh he presented me with the purest -wine. I said, “By God! with God! through God! and by Ali’s purest spirit, -since I was born I never drank wine or any other spirituous liquor, and since our -great ancestor Khoja Ahmed Yessúí, none of our family have ate or drank any -thing of an intoxicating quality. I beg, therefore, to be excused by you.” The -Khán said, “My beloved and darling brother, what are you afraid of; if it is of -your Emperor, he is five months journey from you; if it is of your Khán (the -Páshá), it is forty days distance from Erzerúm to Tabríz. The Khán of the -Sháh of Irán and the dog of Alí, my Sháh, has expressly forbidden me to drink -a drop of wine; what do I care for that, I drink it secretly and delight in it; -follow my example.” I said, “Very well, my Khán, if your Sháh has prohibited -it to you, it is prohibited to me by the express command of the Sháh of Sháhs, -the Lord of Lords, who says in the Korán, ‘wine, gaming and fortune-telling are -Satan’s work:’ it is of this Lord, that I am afraid.” “You are,” said the Khán, -“a rigorous Methodist (Mutea-assib).” “By God!” replied I,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span> “I am no Methodist -but only a true follower of the orthodox sect of Na’amán Ben Thábet, and a -true lover of the Prophet’s family.” At this reply the whole company became -silent, the Khán rose up with all his youthful attendants, and sitting down close to -me, he said, “My dear Evliyá Aghá, which of these my favourite servants would -you like to have, I will make you a present of him if you drink a cup of wine out -of his hand. Come drink a glass, if you love red Alí and the twelve Imáms; let -us be warm of head and tender of heart, let us enjoy a moment of delight in this -perishable world.” So saying, all the youths came to salute me, and I returned -their salutes; yet did I implore at the same time Heaven’s assistance, and then -said, in answer to his further pressing requests; “You drink wine to get into -good humour, but the first thing is to be good-humoured in God; I beg you will -let me have a half-drum to accompany my own song, in order to show you how -people get good-humoured in God.” “Be it so,” said he, “for Alí’s sake bring -a half-drum to Evliyá, my brother;” I took it, and sang three tetrastichs on Divine -Love, in the tune Sigáh, which made all the hearers appear as though they were -drunk. The Khán, being extremely pleased, invested me with his own sable -pelisse, gave me a thousand praises, and a Georgian slave as a present, ten tománs -of Abbássí, and a racehorse (Karajubúk). “Now,” said he, “I will not plague -you any more with a request to drink wine,” and I continued to enjoy his conversation -undisturbed during a whole month, feasting every night. I spent this -time observing all that was worth seeing at Tabríz, the good order and government -of which is worthy of all possible recommendation. The inhabitants are -merry, but orderly people, and I never saw a drunkard in the streets. It is in -their praise that the verse was composed, which says, “The people of Tabríz, -though given to pleasure, are as pure as the glass of a mirror; and if you say -they are not true to friends, you must know that the mirror only reflects the -object before it as it really appears.”</p> - - -<h3><i>General Praise of Tabríz.</i></h3> - -<p>The first and most agreeable properties of Tabríz is the abundance of water, by -which means the streets are washed and cleansed from all dust, as though it was -continually New Year’s day. The second praiseworthy circumstance is, that the -Sherífs or descendants of Mohammed do not give their daughters indiscriminately -to servants, but only to their equals. They proposed the following nice point to -me, saying:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span>—“You take Infidel girls as women, because you say that the man -plants the seed, and that is very well; but you also give your own daughters to -Moslíms, who were first Infidels and afterwards converted; now if this new -Moslím relapses into his former error, what then becomes of the children, who -though their mother be a true descendant of the Prophet, may become apostates -and fly into the land of the Infidels?” I answered, with the tradition of the -Prophet, which says, “that even the children of Christians and Jews are born true -Moslims, but that they are afterwards seduced into error by their parents.” There -was no reply to that. The third good thing is that all sales are transacted with -Persian money coined in the country, and that no foreign coin is received. -Money is coined in seven towns, viz. at Erdebíl, Hamadán, Baghdád, Isfahán, -Tiflís, Nehávend, and Tabríz. The inscription on one side is, “There is no God, -but God, and Mohammed is the Prophet, and Alí the friend of God;” on the -reverse is the name of the Sháh, with the epithet of Alí’s dog: their small coins -or pennies are called Kázikí, they bear only the place of the coinage on one side, -and the date of the year on the other: on their measures and weights are also -written the words, “There is no God but God,” and who dares to cheat in the -name of God is blinded by a heated stone drawn over his eyes. Before their -shops and markets, scales of yellow brass are suspended, which are never taken -away, but always remain, and all eatables and drinkables are sold by weight according -to the fixed market prices; even corn and wheat are sold by weight. The -fourth good things are the cookshops, fitted-up with china and furnished with -plates of the same material; they are opened with prayer as usual in the morning, -and then filled with all kinds of pilaws, and stewed meat (Herisse), which are -also sold by weight. The waiters, clean and smart, stand with pewter dishes under -their arms, on which are inscriptions like the following: “No nobility above the -Islám;” “The nobility of the place depends upon who occupies it;” “The -nobility of the house depends upon its inhabitants; and the nobility of the inhabitants -upon their generosity.” After dinner these waiters bring clean basins -and cans for washing, but vulgar people (Tolúnkí and Tokir) wipe their right hand -under their left shoulder, and their left hand under the right.</p> - - -<h3><i>Bad and reprehensible things in Irán.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a bad custom in Persia that only twelve classes of the troops and as many of -the Ulemás and the other ranks of society are allowed to have regular kitchens in -their houses; all the rest eat from the market, therefore, although their dinner is -cheap it is very bad. The army has its cooks, who cook in that way at a fixed -price, so that they are not allowed to take a grain more or to furnish a grain -less than the established quantity. When the army takes the field, the kitchen is -established in tents made of felt.</p> - -<p>Another bad thing in Persia is that they do not kill or hang their delinquents, -but the Darogha and Mohtessíb (two officers of police), bring them to the public<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span> -place, where the executioners torment them in a most cruel manner; during three -days and nights, they inflict on them three hundred and sixty different kinds of -torture. They first give them three hundred strokes of the whip and Korbáj, press -their knees, introduce reeds under their nails, cauterize the whole body with fire, -force them to swallow greasy rags with a rope attached, which if dragged out -again brings the stomach and bowels with it; nail their hands and feet down, -bore holes in the elbows and knees, and then pour melted lead in the holes so that -the lead runs out with the marrow: they tie the four first fingers and toes tight -together, suspend the delinquent and perfume him with sulphur and asses’ urine, -so that the poor men’s cries pierce the skies; they cut pieces out of the back, and -attach burning candles to the shoulders; they squeeze the testicles, tickle the nose -with pointed thorns, put iron kettles on the head, and blind the eyes; and inflict -even more horrible tortures than those already described. God forgive us our -sins! They paralyse thieves by cutting the sinews. They cut off the ears, noses, -and hands and feet of false witnesses, and fasten other delinquents to seven -different kinds of gibbets and pales, and leave them so exposed during three days -and nights. The Khán having one day glorified himself with these cruel tortures, -in my presence, I asked him, “What was the object of such manifold cruelties;” -he said, “That death being pronounced on these culprits, the tortures were added, -in order to terrify others by the example.” I said, “That it was not lawful, -because the text of the Korán states no other punishment for thieves but cutting -off the hand, and retaliation in cases of murder; and that this was quite sufficient -to keep the people in terror and awe.” He was obliged to acknowledge that I -was right. These additional tortures have been contrived by them, because their -people are all riotous and heretical, that they may be kept in order the easier. -So they established it as law.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz.</i></h3> - -<p>In the cemeteries are many places of pilgrimage of great and holy men. In -the cemetery of Súrkháb are the tombs of poets, such as Enwerí, Khakání, -Zahír-ud-dín Faryábí, Felekí of Shíráz, and Felekí of Shirván.</p> - -<p>Of Saints buried in the neighbouring villages, there are, in the village of -Gúchúchán the Saint Khoja Mohammed Gúchúchání; in the village of Sabádabád, -no less than seven hundred learned writers. Essáma Ben Sherík, the -Prophet’s companion is buried near Tabríz on the martyrs’ mount; and Sárut-ul -Jebel, the brother of Hamza, who was carried wounded from the battle of Nehávend -to Tabríz, died here. The Sheikh Sejid-ján Memí, a writer deeply versed in -ancient and modern sciences and in mystics. On mount Súrkháb, two children of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> -Alí are buried; in the quarter of Serde the place is shown where Efasiáb’s head -is buried. Sheikh Nassr-allah, the son of Ak-Shems-ud-dín. It would be too -long to describe all the monuments which exist at Tabríz, and we contented -ourselves with these.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám Gházán.</i></h3> - -<p>We left Tabríz accompanied by one thousand horse, and after a march of five -hours through flowery gardens came to Kent Ajisú, half way to Kúmla, two hundred -houses with gardens belonging to the Khán’s khass, a mosque and three convents. -The waters of this plain are subterraneous, flowing from village to village, and -there are some thousand wells on the great roads, this place is called A’jisú -(bitter water) because its water is a little brackish. We continued our road next -day to the burying-place of Mohammed Shám Gházán; it is called so because -this country bears great resemblance to Damascus (Shám). Mohammed Gházán -Sháh built this castle, and peopled it with from ten to twelve thousand subjects -free from all duties and gifts. He then built this monument, which has no equal -either in Arabia or in Persian Irák, it is a tower lifting its head to the skies -like that of Galata. When I saw it, it was a little damaged on the side of the -gate by an earthquake; it is a monument well worth seeing. I entered it with -the Khán, said a Fátíhah, and read the inscription on the marble coffin. More -than two hundred Dervishes inhabit the convent; outside of the gate, piles of -sheep’s heads are erected, many thousand sheep being immolated here by the -inhabitants of Persia, who have great confidence in this place; a well ten yards -deep affords refreshing water in summer.</p> - -<p>The name of Shám Gházán is a corruption of the Moghol language, in which -this Prince is called Shanb, whence Shám originated. The castle which bears -his name on Mount Welián is now in ruins. At the foot of it is the Kent-Welián -consisting of three hundred houses with a fine mosque, khán and bath, founded -by the Vezír Rashíd-ud-dín Dembolí. We reached after five hours from hence, -the Castle of Kúmla, built by Koja Ferhád Páshá, the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. -in the year 998 (1589), it is a square castle at the foot of Mount Welián. It is -eighty paces in circumference, has seven towers, and two gates, one to the east -and one to the west; the eastern one is that leading to Tabríz. It was from -this place that Ja’afer Páshá, when besieged by the troops in rebellion, made a -sally at night, and completely routed the rebels. He afterwards built this gate. -Within the castle are seven hundred houses and a mosque; the suburb forms the -town of Kúmla, which abounds in gardens; the grapes and pears of Kúmla -are much celebrated. There are seventy mosques, eleven of which are Jamiís<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> -(wherein Friday prayer is said), the best is that of Ferhád Páshá. It is the seat -of a Sultán subordinate to Tabríz. A Kelenter and Darogha keep public order; -a Sultán is here the same as in Turkey a Sanjek Beg, and a Begler Beg is called -a Khán; a Vezír of three tails is called Itimád-ud-devlet; a Commander-in-chief -(Serdár) is here named Sipehsalár; Múnshí answers to the Turkish Reis Efendí; -Kelenter is the same as Alaï Beg, that is to say Colonel of the Militia, and -Darogha is the same as Súbashí or Lieutenant of police; the head of the -Chaúshes or ushers here takes the name of Yessaúl Aghá, and the Aghá of the -Dízchoken is the same as an Aghá of the janissaries in Turkey. The names of -Kúrúji, chief of the forest guards, and Mihmándár or travelling commissary, are -common both to Turkey and Persia. We advanced from hence five hours to the -district of Serawerd, a great Kent north-west of Tabríz, with a mosque, khán, -and bath. We were entertained here during a whole night by the Kelenter, and -continued our journey next day, hunting along the river Serawerd to the Kent-Dúsht, -where we dined and halted a little. We proceeded for six hours to the -Kent-Jevlán Dorúk in the district of Serawerd on the river of that name, with -one thousand houses, a bath and mosque. Further on is the Kent of Kánidlis, -three hundred Moslim houses and a mosque; the Armenians have three churches -and three thousand houses. Three hours further is the Kent-Lákid, the khass of -Rokhsháh’s Lady; the inhabitants are Armenian weavers, there are two thousand -houses, a mosque, a khán, and three convents; on the mount of Serawerd stands a -ruined castle. The Kent of Kujabád has five hundred houses, a khán, a mosque -and a bath. We now went eastward to the district of Rudkát on the north of -Tabríz behind mount Sorkháb, a district of a hundred Kents, which we passed in -hunting during three days.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Merágha.</i></h3> - -<p>It is the seat of a Sultán commanding a thousand troops, and has a Judge, -Kelenter, Darogha and Múnshi; it was built in the earliest time by Húshenk-sháh, -and is the first town of Azerbeiján and its ancient capital, surrounded with -fruitful gardens, eleven farsangs distant from Tabríz; eleven mosques, forty kháns, -sixty mesjíds, forty convents of Dervishes, eleven baths and three thousand -shops. The inhabitants are all weavers, who manufacture excellent Bogassin. -The beautiful youth of both sexes at Merágha are everywhere renowned. The -town has risen from its ruins since the havoc it suffered from the army of Sultán -Murad III. Its builder in the time of Islám was Merván Ibn Mohammed Al-Himár, -in whose time it extended to Mount Sehend and comprised seventy thousand -houses; but since it was destroyed by the Moghols in Húlagú’s time, the -buildings are at some distance from Mount Sehend, which as it intercepted the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span> -north wind, was the reason that the air of its former situation was so heavy. -The water, however, issues from the mountain, and abundantly furnishes the -houses and gardens. Its pomegranates and cotton are famous, the inhabitants -are white and gazelle-eyed, of sweet words and shining faces; a great part of -them secretly follow the orthodox rite of Hánefí. They mostly speak Pehleví; -the whole country is divided into eight districts, viz.: Serajún, Penajún, Jerút, -Kaodúl, Hestrúd, Behsánd, Engúrán, and Kizilorán; each district containing from -eighty to one hundred cultivated kents; altogether five hundred and sixty kents, -sixty towns, and seven castles; the description of which, if we could undertake it -in detail, would alone fill a volume. We left Meragha and entered the district -of Túrnachairí, wherein the town of Aján is situated; the kent of Petiker of one -thousand houses is situated in this district.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Aján.</i></h3> - -<p>On the east side of mount Aján a large town was built by Peshen the son of -Keiúmerth, and, being ransacked by Húlagú, fell into decay, so that all its inhabitants -were transferred to Tabríz; it was rebuilt by Gházán, who also built a castle -of two thousand paces in circumference on the edge of the mountain, with an -iron gate opening to the east; within it are one hundred houses, but no garrison, -outside there are three thousand houses, seven mosques, three baths, seven kháns, -and six hundred shops. The water comes from mount Aján; the inhabitants -are Sháfiítes, but keep their doctrine secret, they are merry fellows (Ehl meshreb), -and no rigourists (Ehl mezheb). The Armenians have two convents. After -having seen the town we continued our journey, hunting, to the district of Mehránberúd, -five farsangs to the east of Tabríz, of sixty great kents. We passed those -of Werd, Isfej and Saídabád, built by a Vezír of that name in the time of Sultán -Tahmurass, a large kent of two thousand houses, seven mosques, a khán and -bath, which was ransacked by Sultán Súleimán in his way to Baghdád, but escaped -the havoc of Sultán Murad. We remained one night here and next day -proceeded seven hours towards the south-east to the Kent of Mán, built by -Máhkúr the daughter of Khodabende; nine hours further we arrived at the castle -of Kehreván built by Sháh Tahmáss, out of fear of Sultán Súleimán. At the -time of the expedition of Kojá Ferhád Páshá, as soon as he arrived at Baghdád, he -sent the General Solák Ferhád Páshá against this place, who besieged the castle -in vain during seventeen days. This Khán Meimendí made continual inroads, -till at Tabríz he was completely routed by Ja’afer Páshá of Tabríz, who took seven -thousand heads and five thousand prisoners from him. The next day Ja’afer set -out with seventy thousand men for the siege of Kehreván, which was taken on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span> -the third day. Meimendí being brought into the presence of Ja’afer Páshá, his -ear was cut off, his property confiscated and himself hanged at the gate of the -castle, the keys of which were sent to Sultán Murad; there is even now a -mosque named after Sultán Murad: it remained eleven years in the hands of the -Ottomans. It is situated on a hill on the road to Baghdád; it is six thousand -paces in circumference, and has two gates, one to the south, and one to the -north; its Sultán commands one thousand men. The suburb consists of seven -thousand well-terraced houses, and sixty mosques, in eleven of which public -prayer is performed on Friday, seven baths, eleven kháns, and eight hundred -shops; the sheets and blankets manufactured here are celebrated. We advanced -seven hours further eastward, to a large kent embellished by a mosque of Jíghála’s -son; and nine hours further on we arrived at the large town of Erdebíl, the first -residence of the Persian Sháhs of the Safí dynasty. It has been taken and -retaken several times by both Ottomans and Persians, and is now the seat of a -Khán, who commands three thousand men; it is a day’s journey from mount -Seilán, and is surrounded by high mountains at the same distance; it lies in a -fertile valley close to a lake. It was built by an Armenian King in fear of -Omar’s power, in the same year that Sáriet-ul-jebel was sent to Nehavend; this -is one of the principal reasons why Omar is so much hated by the Persians, who -do not show so much dislike to Abúbekr and Osmán. This town formerly extended -as far as mount Seilán, from which it is now two farsangs distant; the -farsang is equal to twelve thousand ordinary paces, so that two farsangs are equal -to twenty-four thousand paces. The top of Seilán is always covered with snow, -which shines like silver in the middle of summer, and furnishes all the water of the -town; it is a very digestive water, which enables the inhabitants to feast like -Ma’adikarb. The inhabitants pretend to be Sháfiítes; they are great liars. The -distance between Tabríz and Erdebíl is twenty-five farsangs, which with a good -horse may be gone over in two days. The climate much resembles that of Erzerúm; -hard winter, and a fruitful soil, the corn multiplying eighty fold: there are -no fruit-trees and vines, but gardens for vegetables and rosebeds.</p> - -<p>The lake near Tabríz on the east side is covered with many hundred fishing-boats, -on the west it is but a farsang’s distance from Rúmie; between Erdebíl and -the lake the country is covered with wood, and villages are interspersed in the -forest; there are seventy sorts of fish; the boats on the lake also trade to -Rúmie, Dúmdúmí and Dúmbúlí; the circumference of this lake is greater than -that of Wán, a man may go round it in ten days; the water of the lake of Wán -is bitter as poison, but this is sweet as the water of life. Its depth is seventy -cubits. This lake was produced on the birthnight of the prophet, when the vault<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> -of Chosroes, and that of Ayá Sófiyah, and the idols of Mecca fell down by an earthquake; -forty-five large and small springs flow into it; the river Seilán which -affords water to Erdebíl, the river Kuherán and others fall into this sea. On the -banks of the river Seilán lies a large round mass of iron, three quintals in weight, -extremely well polished, on which ancient philosophers have written a kind of -Hebrew inscription with a figure lifting its two arms up to Heaven; if rain is -wanted this stone is carried in procession into the town, and it never fails to rain -day and night without ceasing till the stone is replaced. The basis on which this -marvellous stone reposes is a large rock, covered with strange inscriptions; it -also has twelve holes, from which as soon as the iron mass is rolled away, water -begins to rush forth, and ceases not until the stone is returned to its place. -Some persons assert this to be the stone which Moses struck in the desert, others -believe that this miracle is performed in favour of Sheikh Safí; be it as it may, it -is a great talisman. Erdebíl is famous for its immense number of mice which -are great destroyers of cloth. Cats are, therefore, so dear that they are sold in -cages by public auction; some of Dívrígui fetch the price of a hundred piastres, -but they are short-lived like all cats of Erdebíl. The cryers at the auction call -out; “A good hunting cat, well bred, a good companion, an enemy to rats, -which steals not!”</p> - - -<h3><i>Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl.</i></h3> - -<p>The first of all is the tomb of Sheikh Safí, the son of Sheikh Khoja Alí, the -son of Sheikh Sadr-ud-dín Mússa, the son of Sheikh Safr-ud-dín Abú Ishák of -Erdebíl, the founder of the dynasty of the Safís. His tomb-keepers are some -hundred dervishes, a large foundation. Sheikh Safí governed only in a spiritual -sense; his son Hyder was his successor, and Ibrahím the son of Hyder having -dreamt of concubinage with an ass, his possession of the Empire was foretold by -his grandsire Sheikh Safí; indeed Sheikh Ibrahím was the first who enjoyed the -rights of sovereignty; from Sheikh Safí to Sháh Abbás are five Sháhs who coined -money. We left Erdebíl, marched nine hours further to the north, and came to -Kent Rarám, a kent of six hundred houses with gardens; eight hours further we -came to the Kent Yár Alí, three hundred houses, a mosque, no khán or bath, but a -large number of shops and a weekly market; six hours further to the north, the -Kent of Merzáde Amád in the district of Dídher, eight hundred houses. After -eight hours, we arrived at Tabríz again, where I remained some days more, passing -from one entertainment to another. Letters were now written for the -kháns and commanders of the places I was to pass through on my return, and the -letter of the Khán to the Páshá made ready. The presents sent to him consisted -of ten camel loads of rice, dried raisins, dried pears, pomegranates, and two race<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span>horses -of the breed Karajubúk, four trotting horses, and two boys dressed in -precious cloth perfumed with musk. To me he gave ten tománs Abbássí, a -Georgian slave, a Persian pelisse, a Persian dress, six turbans, and a string of -camels, loaded with rice, a black horse of the race Karajubúk, a trotting one -(Chapár-átí), with Persían bridle and saddle. I took leave of all my friends, and -next day left Tabríz in grand procession with the khán, accompanied by the Royal -music of trumpets and kettle drums. We halted at the place Ain Alí, where a -grand dinner, and five tománs Abbássí more, were given to me for the expenses of -the journey. My suite received twenty tománs of aspers, a piece of velvet, three -of Alas, and six turbans. The Khán recommended me to the care of a Yessavúl -Aghá, who was to escort me with three hundred men, embraced me, and returned -to Tabríz, while we took the road to Eriván.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_FROM_TABRIZ_TO_ERIVAN">JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN.</h2></div> - - -<p>In God’s name we set out from Tabríz to the north, and reached the Kent Hají -Harámí, of three hundred houses surrounded with rose gardens; a foundation of -Shám Ghazán, whose tomb may be seen from hence. The next day the Kelenter -took leave, and we continued our way to Kent Safián, which was formerly a great -kent, but has since been ruined by the Mogols and still more by Sultán Murad IV., -it is a delightful place on the territory of Tabríz. Some learned men and writers -are buried here, but I don’t know their names; there are more than twenty -cupolas. In the month of Moharrem on the day of A’ashúra, the feast in commemoration -of the murder of Hossein is celebrated here with great pomp, the -people are all Sháfiítes. Further to the north we reached Mezídkhán on the -frontiers of Tabríz; five hundred houses covered with terraces, two mosques, a -very spacious khán, a bath and royal market-place. Seven hours more to the -northward is the station of Kent Keremish, on the frontier or Nakhshiván; a -thousand houses, seven mosques, a khán and bath. Our way now led northward -through marshy grounds, and we pitched our tents on the borders of Wishlechaí. -This river issues from the mountains of Nahkshiván and joins the Aras. We -suffered much from dust here, and after two hours travelling reached the castle of -Khúí, a fine town of Azerbeiján, the seat of a Sultán, who commands a thousand -men; the public authorities are a judge, Muftí, Darogha, Kelenter, Nakíb, -Múnshí, Kúrújí and Dízchoken Aghá. The castle is built in a square form on -the plain, its circumference is seven hundred paces; the ditch is not very deep. -Of its two gates one leads to the south, the other to the west; it contains a hun<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span>dred -houses and a mosque. Its builder was Ferhád Páshá, but the old town was -built by Sháh Haider, and it has been sacked more than once since. This -suburb or outer town consists of seven thousand houses with terraces, seventy -mosques, eleven of which are Jamis, two baths, seven kháns, and a thousand -shops with gardens. I and my boys measured the circumference, which is ten -thousand paces. The air is rather warm and favorable therefore to the culture -of rice. The river issues from Mount Selmás, and flows into the Araxes. The -fruits are famous, above all the Prophet-pears, which have no equal in sweetness -and delicious taste. Owing to the mildness of the climate, the inhabitants are all -white, and the women are innumerable. Some historians call this town Asháristán, -Iránistán or Turkistán. Its districts reckon one hundred and eighty villages, the -inhabitants of which are for the most part Sunnites, Sháfiítes, who paid a capitation -tax to Sháh Ismail for the privilege of letting their beards grow (Sakál -Túlí), but have been exempted since the time of Sháh Sefí.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí.</i></h3> - -<p>He died in the year 495 on his way from Antiochia to Isfahán, in this town of -Khúí. After a stay of two days, we continued our journey with two hundred -armed guards to the north, and arrived at the end of nine hours at the town -of Behestán, the seat of a Kelenter. It was anciently a town of the size of -Tabríz but was ruined by Húlagú; it is now a small place of a thousand houses, -three mosques, a khán, bath and small market, with innumerable gardens. Three -hours further northward, we reached the castle of Joris on the frontier of Nakshiván; -the seat of a khán, who commands two thousand troops, a judge and -twelve public officers in honour of the twelve Imáms. The castle, a pentagon, is -situated on a hill, simply walled and therefore not very strong. It was first built -by Uzún Hassan the Sháh of Azerbeiján and was ruined by Murád IV. its ruined -parts are now chalked off [fenced off?] like a Palanka. Though situated on a hill, -yet the hill itself is at the foot of a high mountain. It has a gate looking to the -south-east; within the castle there is no remarkable building but the mosque of Rúshen -Hassan Páshá. The outer town consists of seven thousand houses, and eleven -mosques, of which that of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá and Ferrúkh-zadeh Sháh Ibn -Timúr are the best; there are three mosques, seven kháns, and two hundred shops. -The young people are extremely pretty, with eyes like the roes of Khoten, sweet-tongued -with merry faces, who, if they walk dressed in red embroidered dresses, -like peacocks of Paradise, make all their lovers lose their wits, and by half a look -make as many Mejnúns of them. We spent three days and nights here with -Eyúb Khán the Khán of the town, continually entertained by music. On the fourth -day we continued our journey, after having been overwhelmed with presents.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p> - -<p>We now passed on towards the east where the river of Karajubúk issues from -the mountains of Joris, and then joins the Araxes; in the summer months this -river may be crossed by sheep and goats. We advanced to the north amidst -Kents for four hours to Kent Hallí, on the frontier of Eriván; five hundred houses -with gardens, a mosque and a bath, on the banks of the Hallí river, which issues -from the mountains of Sepend and joins the Aras. Passing on to the north -through woods, we came after eight hours march to the pleasant meadow of Tútolúmí, -where there are some hundred shady trees, but no village. The Daroghas -and Kelenters of the neighbouring kents flocked together to furnish us with -necessary provisions. We passed one night here, and next day continued our -journey along the Aras, crossed it, and came to Kent Kagáj situated on the -eastern bank of the Aras; it has a mosque, a khán, a bath, and three hundred -houses, with a great number of rice fields. We passed through sandy ground -with great dust, nine hours to the north, and reached Kent Ashárlí in the -territory of Eriván, with a thousand houses, a mosque, a khán, and a bath; its -product is rice; it takes its name from the inhabitants, who belong to the tribe -Ashárlí. Travelling along the Aras through well cultivated fields and gardens, we -reached after seven hours the town of Shúreglí, the seat of a Sultán, who commands -one thousand horsemen; there is a mosque, a khán and a bath. After ten -hours we came to Sheráb Khán with five hundred houses, a mosque and a khán; -then to Kent Seif-ud-dín on the frontier of Eriván, and on the banks of the Aras, it -was built by Seifkúlí the Khán of Eriván, and belongs to the khass of Eriván, there -are a hundred and eighty houses, a mosque, and some plantations of rice. Five hours -further to the north along the Aras is the Kent Tílfirák, of a thousand houses, a -mosque, a convent, a khán, a bath, and plantations of rice. At the time of the -siege of Eriván, Murad IV. cut down seventy thousand trees which were used as -bulwarks, but since that time an immense number of trees have grown again. We -sent a message from hence to the Khán of Eriván, next day crossed a lively river, -halted on a meadow, and met a great procession (Alaï,) which was the Kiaya of -the Khán of Eriván who was sent to meet us (Istikbál); we made our entrance -into Eriván with him, were saluted by twenty guns, and lodged in a palace of the -Khán. Hassan Beg went on from hence with the letters and presents of the Khán -of Tabríz to Erzerúm, and I occupied myself in delivering those for the Khán of -Eriván.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván).</i></h3> - -<p>In the year 810 (1407) Khoja Khán Lejchání, a rich merchant of Timúr’s suite -settled here with all his family and servants, cultivating plantations of rice, by -which means a great Kent was soon formed. Five years later Sháh Ismail gave<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span> -to Reván Kúl, one of his Kháns, an order to build a castle here, which being -finished in seven years, was named after him, Reván or Eriván. It is situated on -the eastern bank of the Zenghí river, and is of brick and stone. In the year 995 -(1586) Súleimán Khán, having undertaken the expedition against Nakhshiván, -pillaged Eriván, and returned to his residence with immense booty. In the reign -of Murad III. Ferhád Páshá, his general, pillaged Kenje, Reván, Shamákhí and -Nakhshiván, destroyed the palaces of the son of the Sháh, killed a great number -of Persians, fixed his camp before the castle, and assembled a council of war to -deliberate on the siege, and begun it by digging a ditch on the bank of the -Zenghí from south to north. By the exertion of all the siege was finished -in forty days. Jigálazadeh Yússúf Páshá, who had been bred in the Turkish -Harím, was named the first Commander of Eriván with a garrison of seventy -thousand men. Ferhád Páshá, took care of the repair of the castle of Shúreglí -and Karss, and filled them with Moslim troops. In the same way the castle of -Erdehán and Akhichka were garrisoned, and Ferhád Páshá returned to Constantinople. -Under the government of Jigálazadeh Yússúf Páshá, the town of Eriván -was even in a more flourishing state than in Súleimán’s time, and the neighbouring -villages grew thereby populous. In the year 1011 (1602), the Persians having -usurped the possession of the castles of the Genge and Shirván, forced the garrison -of Eriván, which had received no succour from Erzerúm, to surrender to -Tokmák Khán, after a siege of seven months; in the year 1037 (1627), the Khán -of Eriván, Emírgúneh, having infested the districts of Kághzemán, Karss, Cheldir, -Akhichka and Erdehán, and complaints having arrived from the Begs of -Georgia and from the Governor of Erzerúm, ambassadors were sent from the -Khán of Persia, and at the same time the Imperial tails fixed at Scutari as the -signal of Asiatic war. In the following year 1044 (1634) Sultán Murad IV. -completed his Imperial camp of Scutarí according to the canons of the Empire, -with the greatest splendour and pomp, heaped presents upon his forty thousand -janissaries and twenty-two thousand sipáhís, left Bairám Páshá, Kaima Khám -at Constantinople, and moved on the 5th of Shewál from Scutari, marching over -Konia and Kaissarie to Sivás; at which place he appointed his sword-bearer Mustafa -to the office of Second Vezír, and the sword-bearer Mússa Páshá to the post -of Quarter-master General. The Nishánjí was made Silihdár, and Melek Ahmed, -Chokadár (First Lord in waiting). When he entered Erzerúm report was made -to him, that his army then amounted to two hundred thousand men: Jánpúlád-zadeh -Mustafa Páshá, the governor of Rúmelí, alone mustered thirty-one thousand -men, with seventeen hundred excellent horses; Khalíl Páshá the Governor of -Erzerúm fell into disgrace, to the joy of his enemies, the Silihdár Páshá<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> -and Murteza Páshá; the government of Erzerúm was conferred on the Governor -of Damascus, Kúchúk Ahmed, but the revenues, as barley-money, were given to -Silihdár Mustafa Páshá. The army marched in three days to Hassan Kala’assí, and -from thence by Karss to Eriván. On the 21st day after having left Erzerúm, the -army of two hundred thousand men fixed its camp before Reván. The river -Zenghí was crossed in spite of the long guns of the Persians, with which they -endeavoured to annoy the Ottoman army. On this occasion it happened that -one of the Soláks (bowmen) of the Sultán’s guard, crossing the river on foot -by the side of the Sultán’s horse, was carried away by the water, the Sultán having -observed it rode after him, caught hold of him by the necklace and dragged -him out of the river; this anecdote is much celebrated in Persia. The river being -crossed, the trenches were opened, and Jánpúlád-zadeh Páshá entered them with -the Rúmelian troops from the side of the gate of Tabríz; on the right Gúnjí -Mahomed Páshá with the Asiatic troops entered the trenches, and in the midst -of them the grand Vezír Tabání Yassí Mohammed Páshá took his station; -the Aghá of the janissaries Kara Mustafa Páshá, with his Kiaya, battered the -castle day and night with a battery of twenty guns, and similar batteries were -prepared on five sides. One day Sultán Murad himself entered the trenches of -the Rúmelian troops, and fired a good shot at the Khán’s palace from the gun -called Karabálí. The governor of Erzerúm, Kúchúk Ahmed, battered the castle -from the north side, and the Kapúdán Páshá, Delí Hossein, from the hill of -Mohana-depeh.</p> - -<p>Murteza Páshá, with the Sipáhís, were placed as sentinels on the side of the -earth castle, while Mússa and Cana’an Páshá with the Moteferrika kept guard -over the Imperial tent. The castle was surrounded by troops in the space of -five hours, and every day many thousand Sunnís came to claim mercy. On the -ninth day they asked to capitulate, and Emírgúneh brought the keys. The next -day the Persian Aghá of the Fusileers, Mír Fettáh, was allowed to kiss the Emperor’s -feet, and to return with the garrison to Nakhshiván. Emírgúneh, by birth -a Georgian, and Aded Khán kissed the Emperor’s feet, and each received an -Imperial tent as a present. The Islamitic prayer was proclaimed, all the banners -and standards waving during seven days and nights on the walls; after each -prayer the Mohammedan shout (Allah) was repeated three times, and at night a -great number of candles and lamps were lighted. The castle was repaired in -forty days, and Mustafa Páshá appointed Governor of Eriván, with forty thousand -men as garrison. Sultán Murad appointed the Khán Emírgúneh first governor -of Haleb, but afterwards removed him and gave the government to Kúchúk Ahmed -Páshá. Emírgúneh remained the favourite of Sultán Murad IV. until the death -of the Sultán, when he was killed by Kara Mustafa Páshá.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p> - -<p>The towns of Shureglí, Joris, Behestán, Khúí, Ordúbárí and Tabríz were pillaged -during seven days and nights, together with the castles of Bágjenán, Aján, -Kuherán, Kúmla, Merend, and Selmás, after which havoc he returned by Betlis, -and Diarbekr to Constantinople. The Sháh then laid siege to Eriván for the space -of seven months, which received no relief on account of the enmity existing -between the Grand Vezír Tabání Yassí and Murteza Páshá, who was shut up in -Eriván. The latter having no subsistence left, killed himself by swallowing his -diamond ring, and the next day the whole garrison, half naked and starved, threw -themselves on the mercy of the Persians and were killed by them, a great number -being driven into the Aras, of whom a few being saved by charitable Sunnís -fled to Karss and Bayazíd. Sultán Murad IV. hearing this sad account, girt -himself on two sides with the sword of religious zeal and high enterprise, with the -intention to conquer Baghdád, and to deliver the tomb of the great Imám Na’amán -Ben Thábet out of the hands of the Infidels.</p> - -<p>Eriván meanwhile remained in the hands of the Persians, who increased -its flourishing state; it could not however resist an assault of the Ottoman -army for seven days, because it is only surrounded by a simple wall. It is -situated on the bank of the Zenghí, extending from the south to the north, -having so little breadth, that the balls fired on it by Sultán Murad bounded from -one extremity of the town to the other; many of these balls are even now seen -fixed in the towers. The walls built by Ferhád Páshá are forty royal cubits high; -those built by Tokmák Khán, fifty cubits high and twenty broad; it has no ditch -on the side of the Zenghí, but it has a wall on the south, north and east sides, which -however is not deep, being a marshy ground. It has three iron gates; to the -south, the gate of Tabríz; to the north, the gate of the Meidán called Yaila -Kapússí, on this spot they play Maïl; to the west, the gate of the bridge; there -are seven hundred cannons large and small, which remained from the time of the -Ottomans, and an immense number of other stores, because it is the frontier of -Azerbeiján. It is garrisoned by three thousand men of the fortress, three thousand -men of the Khán, and seven thousand men of the province. Sometimes its -Khán enjoyed the title of Khán of Kháns. A judge, Nakíb, Kelenter, Darogha, -Múnshí, Yessaúl-aghá, Kúrújí, Ishek Aghá, Dízchoken Aghá, seven Mihmandárs -and Sháhbenders, keep public order. The town consists of one thousand and -sixty elegant houses covered with earth, the best is the palace of the Khán much -embellished by Emírgúneh. Near it is the mint where large and small silver coins -(Abbássí and Bestí) are coined. The suburb outside of Yaila Kapússí is called -the old town; at the head of the bridge is the Khán’s garden, and a suburb with -mosque and bath. In the year 1045 (1635), when the Persians conquered this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> -fortress, they also built a castle on the east side, with walls of clay and straw, -which is even more solid than stone. At the time I was looking at all the curiosities -of Eriván, I received an invitation from the Khán to assist at the ceremony -of the circumcision of his sons. His Kiaya gave me ten tománs of Abbássí, -for the expenses of the journey, and I began my journey from Eriván to Shirván, -by Shamákhí, Tiflís, Termís, Aras and Bakú. We first travelled to the north -through cultivated fields of rice, along the river Zenghí to Kent Khoja, the khass -of the Khán of Eriván, with five hundred houses, a mosque and a bath; then -fourteen hours further to Kent Demijí Hassan, which was anciently a town of the -Turcomans, and is even now inhabited by a Turcoman tribe. It was destroyed -by Murád IV. We arrived at last at Genje.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the important town of Genje.</i></h3> - -<p>It was wrested from the hands of Sháh Tahmás, in the year 1014 (1065), by -Kojá Ferhád Páshá. At the time when Mohammed Páshá the Kiaya of Sárí Ahmed -Páshá, was governor of Genje, the Sháh besieged it for seven months, and killed -the whole garrison. Since that time it remained in the possession of the Persians, -a large town, but the Sháh destroyed its castle; it is now an elegant town -of six thousand houses with gardens and vineyards, a khán, a bath, and imáret, -situated in a large plain. Its gardens are watered by the Kúrek, which joins the -Kúr; the Kiblah side of the town is a mountainous tract, and the foot of the -mountains is cultivated in gardens and vineyards; the silk of Genje is famous. -On the plain round Genje are seven districts of Infidel villages, where cotton, -silk and rice are cultivated; here are rich Moghs (ancient Persians, worshippers -of fire) and beautiful youth of both sexes; the horse-shoes of Genje are not less -famous than the silk. The town is governed by a Khán, who commands three -thousand men. The public officers (the Khán included) are twelve in number, -in honour of the twelve Imáms. Its first Ottoman governor was Khádim Hassan, -who conquered Berda’a.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs.</i></h3> - -<p>Twelve thousand Moslims, who had surrendered the castle by capitulation to -the Sháh, were unmercifully killed, and are now buried outside the town in a place -called Shohedaí Ervám (martyrs of Rúm). We remained three days as guests -in the khán of the town, and continued our journey with about fifty companions -to the north; on our right was the Khánlik of Loristán. After seven hours march -we arrived at Gilkzár Ahmedí, formerly a town, but now a kent of seven hundred -houses, the khass of the Khán of Genje, with a mosque, a khán, and a bath; fine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> -silk is manufactured here. Nine hours further, is the Kent of Megúchúr of seven -hundred houses, with a mosque, and a fine garden. On the opposite shore of the -Kúr is a great kent called Kendere; we passed in boats to Megúchúr, the frontier -of Genje, and after eight hours we reached the great town of Aras.</p> - -<p>The town of Aras was built by Keyúmerth, and conquered in the year 985 -(1577), by Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. Emír Khán arrived -with forty thousand men to succour the town, and finding it taken he fought -a battle, which terminated in his being made prisoner, and all his troops consisting of -Turcomans, Koks, Doláks, and Georgians were dispersed. They were routed for -the second time by the Kiaya of Uzdemir-oghlí on the banks of the Kúr river -which swallowed up a great number of them, the bridge having broken down under -the weight of the fugitives; their bones are yet seen in heaps, and the bridge still -lies in ruins. The Turkish general having convinced himself of the importance of -the town of Aras, situated between Genje and Shirván, collected masons and workmen, -and enclosed the town with a wall, including the garden Sháh Khiabán, which -was outside of the town; three gates led through this wall of clay, the circumference -of which is nine thousand six hundred paces. It was finished in forty -days, and the governorship, with the rank of a Begler Beg, conferred on Kaitáss-Beg, -who had been brought up in the Harím of Sultán Murad. From its situation -at the foot of a mountain, the town resembles that of Brússa, surrounded -with gardens of fruits and flowers, vineyards and rosebeds. It consists of ten -thousand houses with terraces, and forty mosques; in the castle are those of -Murad III., of Ferhád Páshá, and of Kara Sinán. The Turkomans and Komúks -of Dághistán, pronounce the name of this town Arash. In the beginning of the -reign of Sultán Mustafa, this town like that of Merend fell into the hands of the -Persians. Forty quarters may now be reckoned, and as many mosques, sixteen -baths, eight hundred shops, and seven coffee-houses. The youth are gazelle-eyed, -with faces shining like the sun, because their women are Georgians, Dadiáns, -Achikbásh, and Shúshád. The air is mild and the water of the royal mountain -(Sháhkúh) most excellent. Around it are seven great districts each of which -reckons one hundred populous kents, the most populous is that of Levend Khán -near Aras. On crossing the bridge of Uzdemir-oghlí Osmán Páshá, the traveller -arrives at the district of Palvanaí, and the district of Shair Abadán, where a castle -is seen on a rock, the name of which I do not remember.</p> - -<p>The royal mount, opposite the town, is the summer abode of the Turcomans. -Amidst the districts of Aras is also that of Shekí, which is now governed by the -governor of Aras, though it was sometimes ruled by the power of the Princes of -Dághistán. The Khán of Aras leads twenty-three thousand men into the field.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span> -Twelve public officers keep order in the town. After a stay of three days in -this town, we advanced to the north, and after two stations reached the castle of -Shekí.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Shekí.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by Alexander a Prince of the Shúshads, from whose hands it passed -into those of the Prince of Dághistán, and then into those of the Persians. Lala -Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. conquered it, and it was conferred -on Erkelád Beg, the son of Levend Khán. In the beginning of the reign of -Sultán Mustafa it returned into the possession of the Persians, and is now the -seat of a Sultán, who commands one thousand men. It is a nice castle built on a -rock, its circuit three thousand paces, a ditch is not required; its two gates are -that of Genje and that of Shirván; though situated on the frontier of Dághistán -it is reckoned to belong to Georgia, the more so as its builder was a -Georgian; there are three thousand houses, and seven mihrabs; in the market -is the mosque of Mirza Alí Beg, in the castle that of Lagúsh-oghlí Ahmed Beg; -that of Murad III. is falling into decay. In the gardens great quantities of silk -are produced. At a journey’s distance east of this castle passes the river Kanúk, -flowing into the Zenghí. Advancing to the north, we crossed the river of Uzdemir-oghlí -Osmán Páshá and arrived at the place Koyún-gechid, where we saw piles -of human bones; our companion Yasser Alí Aghá told us, that it was on this spot -that Mustafa Páshá, the general of Murad III., was attacked by the Kháns of Tabríz, -Lor, Nakhshiván, and Karabágh, who with more than two hundred thousand men -surrounded him. Koja Lala Mustafa Páshá ordered a general attack, which -was instantly made on one side by Uzdemir-oghlí, on the second by Mohammed, -the governor of Haleb, and on the third by Mustafa, the governor of -Mera’ash, who cut to pieces more than a thousand men, and drove the rest like -sheep to the ferry of Koyún-gechid, where a great many of them were drowned, -some in the river Kanúk and some in the Kapúr. In short there remained -altogether more than forty thousand men on the field of battle, whose bones are -piled up as an everlasting monument; I said a Fátihah for their souls, and -crossed the sheep’s ferry. Further on to the north we passed the white river -(Aksú), which is called by the Persians the river of Gilán. It comes from the -mountains of Aras, and flows into the Kúr. At the end of three hours we entered -the district of Mahmúdabád consisting of two hundred highly cultivated kents, -which produce a thousand Yúks of silk, each kent resembling a large town. -The inhabitants are Turkománs, Kok, Dulák, Moghols, and Ettels.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Account of the Tribe of Ettels.</i></h3> - -<p>Ettel signifies in the Mogolic language, tongue of dogs; they take this name from -their war-cry, which is a kind of howling. Near Márdín, in the sanjak of the mountains, -which I entered with Melek Ahmed Páshá, the Ettels are a tribe like that of -the hairy Kurds, impure, impious, irreligious robbers, who pretend to be of Hamza’s -sect, keep neither prayer-hours nor fasts, are ignorant of moral duties and of -God. Seven or eight of them share a woman amongst them; if she gets with child, -her seven or eight keepers after some time assemble, and the woman gives an apple -into the child’s hand, the man to whom the child gives it is reckoned to be the -father, and henceforth the woman belongs exclusively to him, without any man -being allowed to raise pretensions to her. The famous sect of the candle-extinguishers -(Múm sonduren), must be a branch of them, because I saw or heard -nothing of them any where else. It is a certain fact that they drink out of the -shoes of their Sháhs, to whom they are most obedient.</p> - -<p>The Kaitáks are about twenty thousand men on the frontiers of Dághistán, who -sometimes come to the towns of Aras and Shekí; a strange race of men like the -beast of the day of judgement, with heads in the form of kettles, brows two fingers -broad, shoulders so square that a man may easily stand upon them, thin limbs, -round eyes, large heels, and red faces. They pretend to be Sháfítes; if they -come to the market of Aras and Shekí, they come on waggons, or ride on buffaloes, -because horses and asses could not carry their weight: as they pass with -their turbans of the size of a cupola, saluting on both sides with great dignity, they -seem to be of the race of Dejál (the Antichrist) true Oghúzians. These Kaitáks -come originally from the province of Mahán, are Mogholian Turks, and therefore -speak the Mogolic language, of which I could only collect a few words, as I -remained but two days among them. I saw these people in the district of -Mahmúdabád, and after having travelled further to the north, reached the kent -Chailán on the frontier of Shirván on the banks of the river of Guílán, with six -hundred houses of Turcomans and Oghúzians. Further on is the town Niázabád -on the frontier of Shirván built by Yezdejerd-sháh, great ruins of its ancient -magnificence are yet extant, it was ruined by the Moghols, who united with the -Komúks and Kaitáks of Dághistán. In the reign of Murad III., Ferhád Páshá -fixed his winter quarters here, and levelled the castle, when he left it in the spring. -It is now the frontier between Dághistán and Persia, with forty quarters and as -many mosques, a khán, bath and market-place, the seat of a Sultán who commands -a thousand men. There are twelve magistrates; according to the statement of the -Kelenter, there are more than six thousand houses surrounded by gardens. It -is a pity that its strong castle lies in ruins; if God should again grant that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> -it be restored to the Ottoman power, it might be easily repaired, and become a -very strong castle. This town is surrounded by an endless plain on all four sides.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage of Ashár-Baba.</i></h3> - -<p>Ashár-Baba was one of the disciples of our great ancestor the Turk of Turks, -Khoja Ahmed Yessúí; as the rites of Yessúí are liked in Persia the convent at this -place is inhabited by more than a hundred Dervishes. It is a general pilgrimage, -the inhabitants profess to be of the sect of Hanefí. We here took some companions -and advanced to the north to the kent Ferrakhzád on the frontier of -Shamákhi, and on the bank of the white river (Aksú) with five hundred houses, -a mosque, a khán, a bath and a small market. The mihmándár of this place -paid me many attentions. We advanced to the north amongst shady groves, -dined at a hunting place of Sháh Khoda-bende, and arrived at Nílchaí, the same as -blue river (Goksú), which coming from Dághistán joins the Kúr at this place.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of Mount Caucasus.</i></h3> - -<p>The rivers which come from Mount Caucasus, on the south, flow into the -Kúr, and those towards the north, straight into the Caspian Sea. Again -there are rivers on the south side, which fall into the Black Sea, and on the -north side into the Kúbán. Mount Caucasus is the greatest mountain in the -world, its tracts are ruled by five different monarchs, and to the south the Abáza -tribes are settled to the extent of eighty journies. On the east side on the border -of the mountain are the Mingrelians, Georgians, Ajíkbásh, Shúshád, Kúrdíl, -and Dadián to the extent of forty journies. Again there is the province of Tiflís -on the Persian frontier, and the throne of the Alans (Serer-ul-allán) on the border -of Mount Caucasus nineteen journies long; Dághistán, within Mount Caucasus, -twenty journies long to the north. Inside of Mount Caucasus is also Circassia -inhabited by the tribes Kabartaí, Bestí, Púltakaí, Khatúkaí, Memsúkh, Bozadúk, -Takakú, Zana, Shefáke and other Circassian tribes, eighty-one journies. According -to this reckoning the extent of all the tracts of Mount Caucasus is two hundred -and forty journies. It is so high that it is seen at ten days distance. God -has created on the surface of the earth one hundred and forty-eight mountains, -twelve of the highest <i lang="fr">par excellence</i>, are, Mount Caucasus, Mount Bingol, Mount -Demavend, Mount Siján, Mount Kamar, the mountains in Germany at the source -of the Danube; the mount Samúr, where the Zeiro and the Dniester take their -origin. No man has ever reached half the height of Mount Caucasus: passing on -our way through the districts of Dághistán we saw its top wrapped in clouds. -But we shall now return to the description of our journey.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span></p> - -<p>The kent of Kokchaí (the blue river) is a great place with a Kelenter and Mihmándár, -seven hundred houses with gardens. The inhabitants are Sunnís, who pay -tribute to Sháh Ismail for permission to wear beards. We continued our journey -through fields to the north, for seven hours, and reached the kent Aksú, on the -territory of Shamákhí, of one thousand houses, a mosque, khán and bath. The -White River passes through the place and flows into the Kúr, it comes from the -mountains of Shirván, waters the fields of Shamákhí and falls into the Kúr.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Town of Shamákhí.</i></h3> - -<p>It was first built by Yezdejerd Sháh the Persian Monarch; it is the centre of -seven Khánliks, some spell it Shám Akhí (the brother of Damascus), and some -Shám Ahí (the sigh of Damascus), because its first inhabitants were a colony from -Damascus; forty Sultáns and forty judges are attached to it, seventy castles and -thirteen hundred kents like large towns: Ulama Páshá and Pírí Páshá, two Vezírs -of Sultán Súleimán took possession of it in their Emperor’s name, and Ulama -Páshá was named governor of Shirván; Sháh Tahmás then besieged the town -during three months, conquered it, and gave the government to his younger -brother, Elkáss Mirza, who remained three years at his post, but then, being afraid -of his brother, took flight with all his valuable things, came through the steppes -in forty days to Kafa, embarked himself and paid his homage to Sultán Súleimán -at Constantinople. In the year 954 (1547), Elkáss Mirza undertook with Lala -Mustafa an expedition to Persia, and then took up his abode in the palace of Pertev -Páshá at Constantinople. Having witnessed the pomp of Sultán Súleimán’s solemn -entrance, he said, “How it is possible that with such power your Emperor of the -Ottomans should not be at the same time the monarch of Iran?” Súleimán -carried Elkáss along with him on the expedition to Wán and Azerbeiján. Lala -Mustafa Páshá was named governor of Shirván, and Elkáss Mirza, his predecessor -in this government, ravaged the provinces of Nakhshiván, Eriván, -Genje, and Shirván. Sháh Tahmas having died, the castle of Shamákhí was -taken after a siege of seven days from his son; Lala Páshá was named -governor of Shamákhí, and Elkáss Mirza Khán of Mahmúdabád. He -ravaged Persia as far as Isfahán in order to quench his thirst for vengeance. -Shamákhí was then contested for by both powers, till in the reign of Murad -III. it was conquered, and then repaired by Uzdemír-oghlí Páshá. The Persians -reconquered it and lost it again to Ferhád Páshá. It remained in the -hands of the Ottománs till the time of Sultán Murad IV. when the Persians took -Derbend and Shamákhí by usurpation, and sent the garrison prisoners to Constantinople. -It has ever since remained in the power of the Persians, and is now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> -the seat of a Khán. The castle is on a hill on the bank of the river, the interior -one is very strong, but the exterior is in decay. The town consists of about seven -thousand well built houses, stone walls, and terraces, each house provided with -water; there is an infinite number of gardens, and twenty-six quarters; the quarters -called Meidán and Shabúrán being in the inner castle are the most elegant; -there are seventy mosques, the oldest is that of Div Alí, who was one of the Kháns of -Shah Tahmáss, but a Sunní; in the suburb is the great mosque of Sháh Safí, which -rivals the vault of the palace of Chosroes. In the court-yard is a basin, and round it -cells for students; the gates of the mosque of Ferhád Páshá are closed, because it -has no endowment; the mosque of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá is a college, where the -Muftí holds lectures: there is a dining establishment of Sultán Khodabende’s foundation, -forty schools for boys, seven pleasant baths, the best of which is that of Shabúr, -with numerous private rooms and a basin, its waiters are fine youths. Besides -the public baths, there are private ones in every garden. There are forty caravánseraïs, -in each of which many thousand tománs of wares are deposited. The -public security is so great, that every man leaves his shop open, without the least -danger, when he goes away on business; there are altogether twelve hundred -shops. There is no Bezestán of stone, but nevertheless a great number of -valuable articles; the coffee-houses are meeting-places for wits and learned men; -the air is mild and the land fertile; rice, cotton, seven sorts of grapes, pears, and -water-melons are in great perfection. The greatest part of the inhabitants are -Sunnís of the Hanefirites, who perform their prayers secretly. I remained during -seven days a guest of the Khán of Shamákhí, Takí Khán, a generous, liberal man, -who liked society and good company. He presented us with many pieces of silk -stuffs, ten tománs of Abássí, and a horse (Karajubúk). Being himself invited to -the entertainment of the Khán of Eriván, he set out from Shamákhí with one -thousand men. Marching to the north we came to the pilgrimage of Pírderkúh -(the old man of the mountain) a great saint, a fine walking-place the view from -which embraces all the buildings of Shamákhí; the inhabitants of three hundred -adjacent villages are for the most part Dervishes of the order of Begtásh, belonging -to the Convent of this Saint. We advanced from hence six hours to the north -through a cultivated country, and reached the station of Pír Merízát, where we -were treated as guests by the Kelenter. The convent of this place is called Pír -Mirza by some, and Pír Mirka by others, but the proper mode of spelling the -word is Merizát, which signifies incurvated, because his body is seated in one of -the corners of the convent in an incurvated position, his face turned towards the -Kiblah, his head recumbent on a rock. His body is light and white like cotton, -without corruption at all. The Dervishes who are busy all day long in cleaning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span> -and sweeping the convent, put every night a basin of clear water at the feet of -the Saint, and find it empty in the morning; his dress is thus always washed white -without the least dust upon it. The brains of those who visit this place are -perfumed by the scent of ambergris. Sheikh Sefí who came from Erdebíl to visit -this Saint spent treasures in building this convent of Dervishes Begtáshí, which -has its equal perhaps only in the town of Meshhed Mússa Riza. Its entrance -fills all who visit it with a sacred awe, like culprits appearing before a great -monarch as their judge. I visited it, read the Súra Yass in honour of the Saint, -and made spiritual acquaintance with him. I am unable to quote the date of his -death, as there is no chronostick on the gate; but one of the Dervishes told me -that he was the Múëzzin of Sheikh Ibrahím Shirvání, who had arrived at such a -degree of sanctity, that when he proclaimed prayers at the five hours, the skies -all moved in uproar. Sheikh Ibrahím touched his back bone, which is the cause -of his incurvated position and good preservation. Whoever says at his tomb the -seven verses of a Fátihah may be sure to have for seven days the object of his -wishes. Passing about a mile to the north of the convent, through gardens, we -came to the Kent of Kharjdeh, another place of pilgrimage, which was covered -with a cupola by Khodabende Sháh; in seven hours more, to the caravánseraï -of Kúzlí, a great Khán, the foundation of Sháh Ismaíl; further on, to the station -of six trees, a great caravánseraï with a ruined Kent, on the frontier of Derbend; -and then to the pilgrimage of Khizrzende, who lies beneath a cupola in good preservation. -Uzdemir-oghlí Pásha who came here hunting, built this cupola because -he had great faith in the Saint. Still further northward in the district of Musekker, -on the frontier of Shaburán, is the place Regál.</p> - -<p>There is a Regál, a small Kent, near Shamákhí, but this has a mosque, a khán, -a bath with gardens, and three thousand houses with terraces; it belonged -formerly to Derbend and is now a dependence of Bakú, the inhabitants are for -the most parts Turcomans, Kaitáks and natives of the towns of Dághistán, Enderí, -Tarkhú, Koúk, and Thálibserán; they are not duellists, though many exist in -these parts. We halted on the border of the river Regál, and afterwards continued -our journey through the fields; all at once we saw a great troop coming -from the Black Sea, which as we approached proved to be the troops of seven great -Persian Kháns, viz. Eriván, Genje, Lor, Bakú, Kílán, Moghán, and many Sultáns, -all in state dresses, with more than ten thousand men of Turcomans, Moghols, -Kalmúks, Kodeks, Valács, and Cossacks, with a variety of dresses and arms, sounding -trumpets of Efrasiáb, beating drums and kettle drums, and playing Persian -tunes in a style beyond all description. The Khán of Eriván leaving the troops -and advancing to meet us, the Khán of Shamákhí acquainted me with it. He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> -saluted me first, and then the Kháns of Kílán and Bakú, and we continued improving -our acquaintance till we arrived at the town of Bakú. So many salutes -were fired from the walls and towers of Bakú that it seemed like a salamander in -the fire of Nimrod’s pile. We met with Envoys who had arrived from the -Russian towns of Astrakan, Heshdek and Terek, to compliment the Khán with -presents on his feast; thus we entered the Castle of Bakú on Friday the first -Moharrem of the year 1057 (1647).</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the fortress of Bakú.</i></h3> - -<p>After a grand repast we delivered the letter of Defterdár-zádeh Mohammed -Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, our gracious Lord, with the presents consisting -of beads of pearls, Irák stuffs, and a fine sword. I also delivered the letters of -the Kháns of Tabríz and Nakhshiván, complimenting him on the feast of his -wedding; the Khán entertained me as a guest in his sister’s palace, the festival -lasted ten days and nights, during which he praised the presents he had received -through me, in the presence of all the Kháns and Sultáns; he then presented me -with a Persian dress, ten tománs of Abbássí, and ten tománs of Bisití; after -which, with my companions, I went to view the town.</p> - -<p>The castle of Bakú is built on a hill and is of a square form; the gate looking to -the west is of iron from Nakhshiván, the circumference is seven hundred paces, -it has seventy towers, and six hundred battlements, the height of the wall is forty -royal cubits; being situated on a rock, there is no necessity for a ditch. Within -the castle are seventy houses with terraces, a mosque of Hyder Sháh, but without -a minareh. In the castle is no khán, bath or market, but on the shore of the -Caspian Sea the suburb (Robát) consists of a thousand houses with gardens, -mosques and kháns, surrounded with walls on three sides; there are three gates, -the gate of Guílán to the north; the gate of Derbend to the south; and westward -towards the sea-shore is the harbour-gate. Seven minarehs of as many -mosques are to be seen, the names of which I am ignorant of, and three baths, -the most brilliant of which is that of Mirza Khán. This place being a frontier -fortress opposed to Russia is garrisoned with excellent troops called Sháhseven -and Dizchoken (who love the Sháh and bend their knees before him.) It is the -seat of a Khán in the province of Shirván, ruled by twelve magistrates. The -Russian Cossacks have several times pillaged the town of Bakú, and the province -of Guílán; they besieged it at the instigation of the Persians soon after its -conquest by Uzdemír-oghlí Osmán Páshá, when Kobád Páshá was governor, but -were all cut down, and their bones are yet piled up on the shore. The climate -is mild and favourable to the cultivation of rice and cotton; the water all smells<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span> -of Naphtha which is found in seven mines near the town, of different colours, -yellow, red and black. The inhabitants of the districts of Musekker, Sedán, and -Ríneb do not use oil or grease, but all burn black Naphtha. The people are sound -and stout, and some of them fine figures; they are for the most part Sunnís. The -distance between this town and Derbend is four days journey, peopled by wandering -Turcomans. Three journies east of Bakú is the town of Shabúrán, and -Shamákhí is five journies to the east; the port of Shamákhí is much frequented -by Chinese, and Tartars, Kalmúks and Russians, who bring different wares, in -exchange for which they take salt, naphtha, safian, and silk. Round the town -are many places, where if a portion of earth is dug up fire bursts forth, which is -used by the Caraváns in cooking their victuals. Near the town to the north -flows the Kúr, which is sometimes navigated by Cossack and Russian pirates, who -ravage the Persian provinces, and sell their prisoners privately in the markets of -Guílán. It is a great river like the Danube, broad but not deep. I remained -some days at Bakú to witness the festival at the wedding of the sister of the -Khán of Eriván, who was married to the Khán of Bakú. If I were to describe -minutely all that took place at this festival it would more than fill a large book. -During a fortnight’s stay I received many valuable presents, from the Khán and -others, viz. rich cloth, seven horses, three Georgian slaves, a Persian sable pelisse, -two camels, ambergris, &c. ten tománs of Abbássí for the expenses of the journey, -and as much to be distributed amongst my servants. We took leave of our friends, -and the Khán himself, out of friendship, accompanied us when we left the town.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia.</i></h3> - -<p>We passed to the south over a dreary tract along the sea, where we saw mines -of Naphtha in seven places; it boils up from the earth on the seashore, and in -the district of Musekker in hot springs, on the surface of which it collects. It -is a Royal lease, let for seven thousand tománs of aspers per year. The men -belonging to the inspector of the Naphtha collect it from the surface of the -springs and small lakes, fill jacks of goatskin with it and sell it to the merchants; -the yellow is the most esteemed; the black Naphtha is carried as a Royal revenue -to the fortresses, and used to light the walls on dark nights, and to be thrown on -the besiegers. It is also used by the Mihmándárs for torches; all the torches at -the Court of the Sháh and at their great houses are made of Naphtha of -Bakú; if it catches fire it burns to the last drop; to prevent, therefore, the destruction -of the mines, heaps of earth are piled up near them, and if one of them -should be ignited by a spark, all the people flock together and throw earth upon -it to quench the fire. There are also mines of Naphtha in other places, which,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> -however, I did not see. We advanced to the south, and halted in the district of -Musker, beneath tents of felt belonging to Turcomans, who with Moghols and -Kúmúks pass the winter here; it is a fertile tract of country.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant.</i></h3> - -<p>A whale had been driven on shore, one hundred yards long, with two heads, -one at the tail end, the other of the size of a cupola. In the upper jaw it had -one hundred and fifty teeth, each a yard long, ears like an elephant, and eyes of -the size of a round table, and covered with beaver’s hair. The inhabitants -of Bakú, Derbend and Shamákhí flocked together to see it. Khoja Sarúkhán, a -voyager in the Caspian Sea, told me that this kind of whale was common in that -sea; there are certainly many strange creatures and animals in that sea which are -not to be found elsewhere; the shore is covered with bones and carcasses of -strange kinds with square and pentagon heads, and an immense number of extraordinary -fish. According to the reports of sailors, the circumference of the -Caspian Sea is twenty-four thousand miles; it has no islands like the Black Sea -and White Sea, wherein two thousand and forty islands are reckoned, forty of -which are great ones, like Cyprus, Creta, Rodos, &c. with large towns and rivers. -The conflict of the waves of the Caspian Sea is stronger than those of the Black -Sea; it is bounded on the west by the Russian provinces; and on the east by the -country of the Uzbegs, Kalmúks, and Cossacks. In winter-time the Kalmúk -Tátárs pass over the ice of lakes and rivers which are frozen for the space of -seven months, committing depredations in the Russian provinces, and carrying a -great number of prisoners away. On the western side its extremity is at Derbend, -and south to it, in the district of the Avárs, which is comprehended by a gulf -on the frontier of Dághistán, is the castle of Terek on the river of the same name. -Its length from north to south is four thousand miles, and its depth three -hundred cubits; thousands of boats and vessels carry on trade, but they are all -afraid of Russian Chaiks, with whom they fight; the vessels are not large ships -like those of the White, Black and Red Sea, but small boats of reeds with small -guns; there are no men of war or great Caravellas like those of the White Sea, -which are necessary to meet the vessels of the Franks in the Archipelago and -Mediterranean; such great means of defence are not required on the Caspian, -as there are only Cossack boats to be met with.</p> - -<p>We continued our journey eastwards through plain fields, and arrived at the -great town of Shabúrán, an elegant yet ancient town, which was first built by -Isfendiár, and ruined by Húlagú. Uzdemír-oghli Osmán Páshá, the Vezír of -Murad III., took possession of this town after the conquest of Derbend, and it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span> -became the seat of a sanjak Beg. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad -IV. the Persians became masters of it again, and it is now the seat of a Sultán -which is the same as a sanjak Beg in Turkey, it is a well inhabited town, with -seventy mosques, the largest of which are the mosques of Uzún Hassan, of Tokmák -Khán and of Ashár Khán. The fountains and china work, with which the mosque -of Uzún Hassan is inlaid, are no where found in such profusion. Uzdemir-oghlí -used to come every Friday with a great train from Derbend, in order to perform his -prayers here; it is adorned with so many arabesques and carvings in marble, that -the greatest architects are astonished on beholding it. The town is situated in a -valley rich in bowers, roses, flowers and fruits. Its districts are seven, named -after the seven planets. We continued our journey to the south in the district of -Musker, and reached the station of Kent Charkhí on a wide plain at a great -distance from the Sea. It is the khass of Shah Mikhál, the Prince of Dághistán, -with five hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, a caravánseraï, and a market-place. -The inhabitants are for the most part Kúmúks of Dághistán. We travelled -further on to the south, leaving Regál on our left, and arrived at last in the district -of Musker at the capital of it, the pass of Alexander, the strong fortress of -Derbend.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates.</i></h3> - -<p>It is generally known that Alexander having designed to build the dike of -Gog and Magog, when he arrived at this place, thought of executing a project -for uniting the Caspian with the Black Sea, by means of a canal which was to -join the Caspian Sea with the Phasus; but being advised by his Vezírs of the -danger of this union, as the Black Sea was a great deal lower than the Caspian, -he left it unexecuted, and built three immense walls with three ditches as a -stronghold between the Black and Caspian Seas, and as a line of defence against -the Bení Assfar Sala’at, Rús, and the people of Crimea and Kipchák. These triple -walls, on Mount Caucasus in the mountains of Irák Dadián, with triple ditches, I, -poor Evliyá, saw, and which all those who travel from Crimea into the country of -the Kúmúks also see; by the lapse of time some of the towers are in ruins and -the ditches choked up with earth. The author of the History of Tophet -pretends that the Caspian Sea issues by subterraneous canals cut by Alexander -into the Phasus, but this is an evident blunder, as I can most positively -assert, because when I saw the Phasus on my journey to the siege of Assov, -I found its water clear and fresh, while that of the Caspian Sea is so salt and -bitter, that it burns a man’s skin if used for purification. This is a case for applying -the Persian proverb; “Where is hearing, and where is seeing?”</p> - -<p>We have already mentioned in our journey to Trebisonde, that Alexander<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> -built a strong castle on the shores of the Black Sea at the mouth of the Phasus, -and on the shores of the Caspian he built this gate of gates or iron gate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Size and figure of the Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>Yezíb Ben Abd-ul-Melek, the son of Atika, the daughter of Moavia, took this -place from the Khavarej, and the whole district of Dághistán was then ennobled -with the glory of Islám. In the year 986 (1578) Uzdemir-oghlí the Vezír of -Sultán Murad III. appearing with a great army before its walls, the Sunnís who -were inside bound Jírágh Khalífeh, the Sháh’s commander, cut off his head, and -surrendered the fortress to the Ottoman general, who was appointed by the -Porte, Governor General of Shirván. He repaired the castle and made subject to it -seventy surrounding villages. One thousand janissaries, four regiments of Sipahís, -ten of armourers, ten of gunners, sixty cannons, five hundred boxes of ammunition -and fifteen hundred militia of Eriván completed its means of defence. -Communications were opened with the Tátárs of Crimea and Kipchák, with the -garrisons of Akhichka, Genje, Tiflís, and Shamákhí, and the town was in a highly -flourishing state, till in the beginning of the reign of Sultán Murad IV. the troops -rebelled and surrendered the fortress to the Sháh of Persia, in whose hands at the -present time it is in a most prosperous condition. It is the seat of a khán and -judge and twelve public officers, garrisoned by nineteen hundred good troops. I -occupied a place here on the bulwark of Kainák khán, and was extremely well -treated by the khán who gave me five tománs for the expenses of my journey.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Iron Gate.</i></h3> - -<p>Alexander closed this passage with an iron gate, which remained up to the -time of Núshirván by whom it was renewed. Jezdejerd Sháh, Ismail Sháh and -Uzdemír Páshá repaired the castle situated at the foot of mount Arghan and -Deneb. The foundations of the western walls are washed by the Caspian Sea. -The walls were built by Herzsháh, as is recorded by the Persian chronostick on -the gate of the harbour. The remains of the wall of Alexander also, which was -a broad thick wall, are still to be seen projecting from the Sea. If the government -would undertake it, it would be easy to extend the harbour from these -walls up to the fortress. The length of the wall from the sea to the high mountain -is an arrow’s shot, and the breadth of the castle itself is the same. It is -built in a pentagon form on a high hill, the strongest I ever saw during my -travels; the intelligent architect distributed it into three parts, one of which looks -eastward to mount Safah; the second gate is the entrance to the town. In the -wall which looks to Mount Arghan are also two gates, and two others leading to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span> -the lower town; the first is called Meskúr because it opens towards the district -of that name, persons leaving this gate in waggons, may arrive at Shamákhí -in three days. Another gate leads towards Kipchák, Crimea and Circassia. In -Dághistán, waggons with horses cannot travel, but the roads to Terek, Kazán -and Desht Kipchák are all practicable for those vehicles. The third division of -the fortress looks towards the sea; it is not so well inhabited as the other two, -as the barracks for the garrison are the only buildings. The waggons of the merchants -who come from Kílán and Bakú with goods are all put in array in this -castle; the circuit of the whole fortress is eleven thousand paces, it has seventy -towers, at each of which is a college and a mosque. The students are allowed -Naphtha instead of candles, and are fed twice a day. In this way they have -contrived to interest the Ulemás in watching the castle; there are besides these -seventy towers, seven thousand and sixty battlements round the fortress; on dark -nights the whole fortress is illuminated with Naphtha, which is a most necessary -precaution, as the castle is continually threatened by no less than thirteen mortal -enemies, the worst of whom are the Cossacks, who come in boats and ravage all -these districts; they cannot, however, come near the border of the castle on -account of seventy large cannons, which defend the avenue, and whose brilliancy -dazzles the eyes of all the beholders. The other powerful enemies are the -Tátárs, Kalmúks and the Ottománs on the west side; the Circassians on the -south side; and the worst of all enemies, the Kúmúks of Dághistán on the south-east -or Kiblah side; to the east is the inimical district of Georgia belonging to -Tamaras khán: for this reason the men of the garrison pass the whole night on -the walls crying Khoda Khob (all’s well!) There is also a post of fifty watchmen -(Túlúngí) stationed on mount Deneb at a great distance from the town; if an -enemy appears anywhere his arrival is made known to the town by fires lighted -on the top of this mountain.</p> - - -<h3><i>Buildings within the Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>The stones of the wall are each of the size of an elephant, but cut square, and -are so large that fifty men at the present day, could not lift one of them. In the -castle are two hundred well terraced houses; close to the southern wall is a large -palace, the architectural ornaments of which are not to be found in any other -palace in Persia; near to it is a great mosque with a ruined minareh, and a bath -built in the Ottoman style, and a fountain. Near the gate of boats opening to the -east, is the mosque of Uzdemir-zadeh Osmán Páshá, with some kháns and shops. -The suburb outside the castle consists of about a thousand houses, with no -imáret, but kháns, mosques and baths. The people get their living by cultivating<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> -silk, they are Sunnís and Shafiís, rich men, and fine youths. On the opposite -side of the Caspian Sea are the Russian provinces of Heshdek and Kazán; and -further on Kipchák and Heihát, where twenty years ago Taissi Sháh, Moyunják -Khán, and Kúba Kalmákh Khán with fifty or sixty thousand men wandering about -in the steppes, pushed their inroads up to the bank of the Kemúklí river and -there killed Gúrgí Mustafa Páshá; these Kalmúks are all Infidels, who have no -idea of religion and faith, but are a careless slavish set of people, some of whom -now begin to come with Russian merchants to the harbour of Derbend, which -is frequented by Chinese, Tátárs, and Russians in great numbers.</p> - -<p>When it was governed by the Ottomans its annual revenue was two hundred -and forty-seven thousand aspers, besides the revenues of the seven Sultáns or -sanjak Begs, and the annual sums given to the Prince of Dághistán for the -preservation of peace. This is according to the description of Zál Mohammed, -made after the conquest of Uzdemir-oghlí Osmán Páshá. The province of -Shirván at present consists of seventy jurisdictions, seven khánliks, and twelve -Sultánliks. May God bring it back to the possession of the Ottomans!</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages.</i></h3> - -<p>Yezíd Ben Abd-ul-Melek, son of Atika the daughter of Moavia, came from -Damascus with a great army to make war against the heretic rebels (Khavarej); -seven hundred moslim martyrs, who were killed on that occasion, are buried outside -the western wall at a mile’s distance. Another army came in the time of -Heshám Ben Abd-ul-Melek, which conquered the provinces of Dághistán, -Kúmúk, Thábserán, Kaiták, and Derbend. The martyrs who fell on this occasion -were also buried in this cemetery; their names are written on the tombs in Cufic -characters and in Thúlúth writing; the inhabitants of Derbend boast that amongst -this crowd of martyrs seventy-five doctors of true tradition are buried. Amongst -these tombs some are to be seen with inscriptions in Jellí (great Neskhí) of -Ottomans, giving an account of their lives and deaths.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Pilgrimage of the Forty.</i></h3> - -<p>There are forty tombs much frequented by visitors. The tomb of Derekhorkhot, -a great Saint, in whom the people of Shirván had great faith. Several -thousand great Saints are buried here, but I visited and made myself acquainted -with those only that I have mentioned. God’s mercy upon them all! After -having seen all the curiosities of this town I received from the Khán a horse of -the race (Kádhibeg,) and a trotting horse (Chapár), ten pieces of cotton stuff of -Guzerát, and two hundred guards to accompany me on the journey; I took leave<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> -of all my friends the Kháns and Sultáns, and set out on my journey to Gúrjistán, -or Georgia.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_GEORGIA">JOURNEY TO GEORGIA.</h2></div> - - -<p>After a march of sixteen hours to the south-east through woods, we arrived at -the place called Kúr, of a thousand fine houses and a mosque, on the frontier of -Dághistán, not far distant from Táyeserán, the residence of Mikhál Sháh, Prince of -Dághistán. Every Friday people flock here together to buy and sell, not for money, -but by exchange. There are ten thousand inhabitants, all Sunnís and Sháfiítes. -I saw no women at all here; the women of Dághistán are not allowed to leave the -house, excepting on a journey to Mecca, or to be carried to the cemetery after death. -The men are hospitable. We left this place, passed a ruined castle in the midst -of woods, and then entered the great district of the Avárs: it is a district belonging -to the khass of the Prince of Dághistán, and during three days journey we -saw seventy great kents with mosques and kháns.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle Serír-ul-allán.</i></h3> - -<p>This ancient town was built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; it was wrested -from the hands of the Princes of Dághistán by the Persian Sháh Kor Khodabende, -and fell into those of the Ottomans, who destroyed the castle that it might not -be used as a defence against them; it is now a large ancient town situated on the -border of Mount Caucasus, belonging to the government of Aresh. According -to fabulous history it was in this town that Solomon set up his throne, which had -been carried through the air by Genii, when he came with Balkis and an immense -army to view Mount Caucasus; this is why it was called the throne of Lán, -a Persian word signifying both a nest, and one who walks or travels. It is -situated between the towns of the gate of gates, Shamákhí, and Niázabád, -but is not much cultivated as it is on the extremity of the frontier, its gardens -are few on account of the coldness of the climate; there are three thousand houses -with terraces, and some mosques not much frequented, seven baths, eleven caravánseraïs, -and seventy shops: as we remained here but one night, it was -impossible to see much of it. It is the seat of a Khán, Judge, Kelenter, -Darogha, and Munshí, and has a garrison of a thousand men; there are a great -number of Sunnís, who get their living by cleaning cotton. The waters which -give life to the plantations of cotton, all issue from the west side of Mount -Caucasus, and fall into the Kúr. We marched for some hours towards the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> -Kiblah, to the district of Khata a dependence of the Princes of Dághistán, a woody -tract comprising three hundred kents, with mosques, kháns, and gardens. We -remained here for three days as guests, and continued our journey on the fourth -to the district of Zákhor, consisting of a hundred and fifty villages and large -kents, governed by Yússúf one of the Princes of Dághistán, who commands -seven thousand brave warlike men; the Beg, with whom we spent a night, presented -me with fifty skins of wild cats, and I gave him three handkerchiefs -embroidered by Sultána Kia.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomb of Emír Sultán.</i></h3> - -<p>He was a great Saint. The Divines of this country, all learned Doctors, have -no enmity amongst themselves, but they shun all communication with the Reváfes -(heretic Persians). Here ends Dághistán, and the province of Georgia begins.</p> - -<p>The frontier castle Ur belongs to the Persians; we passed it on our left, and -skirted the boundaries of the castle of Shekí, which I formerly saw on my way to -Shamákhí, and arrived at the kent of Zakhorie on the frontier of Tamarass-khán, -belonging to the Khán of Tiflís; the inhabitants are all Georgians, Armenians, and -Gokdúlák.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Old Town of Kákht.</i></h3> - -<p>This town is situated on the frontier of Georgia and now governed by the Persians. -It was built by Núshirván to keep the tribes of the Caucasus in order. It is a -pentagon castle, fourteen thousand large paces in circumference, with one hundred -and seventy bulwarks, three gates, two thousand houses within the castle, a -mosque, a bath, and a khán. Its waters, so many springs of life, issue from the -west side of Mount Caucasus, and after irrigating the gardens fall into the Kúr to -the eastward. The climate being rather cold, its silk is not much praised. The -inhabitants are Georgians, Armenians and Gokdúlák; the Sultán commands a -thousand soldiers, all Shiís, and there are twelve civil commanders and a judge. -Sháh Ismail liked its climate so much that he remained here three years before the -battle of Cháldirán, and built a suburb outside of it, so that it bears much -likeness to the town of Kaschau in the middle of Hungary. After the loss of -the battle of Cháldirán, the Ottoman flying troops arriving at this town destroyed -it, and since that time many thousand loads of stones have been carried away by -Ferhád Páshá for the repairs of the Castle of Aras. The Sultán of this place -accompanied me, out of kindness, to the next station, and we passed the night -in Khodraí, a kent of a thousand houses, with a mosque, khán and bath, on -the frontier of Tiflís.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz. Betlís.</i></h3> - -<p>According to the author of the Sheref-námeh, this town was first built by Betlís -the Treasurer of Alexander, who also built the castle of the same name in the -province of Ván; its name is now Tiflís, which for a long time was a great -Persian government, till in the time of Sultán Murad III. Lala Kara Ferhád -Páshá with an immense army undertook the conquest of Georgia, and conquered -Chaldír and seventy castles. Daúd Khán, who was then governor of Tiflís, -garrisoned it with forty thousand men, and fortified it in all possible ways. On -the other side the Ottoman commander summoned the town to surrender to his -Emperor; at an assembly held on this occasion it was advised to send back the -bearer of the summons, and to put themselves into a state of defence, but the -more prudent foreseeing that they would not be able to make resistance, they all -fled away one night, and left the Castle without defence. The Ottoman commander -pursued them with the greatest speed, and came up with the Khán of Tiflís at -the Castle of Zekúm, where he had entrenched himself with all the treasures carried -away from his capital. A great battle ensued, in which no quarter was given -by the Ottoman victors, and forty thousand Persians were cut to pieces. The -booty taken by the Ottoman army was immense; the Aghá of the janissaries -with seven regiments of his corps was sent to garrison Tiflís, and the castle of -Zekúm was taken in the year 956 (1578). A few days after, the Castle of -Kerím also fell. I have not seen the Castle of Zekúm, but I saw that of Kerím -without entering it, when passing through the plain of Kákht. Lala Ferhád -pursued his victory as though he had been on a hunting party; he took twenty-six -great and small castles, some of which he destroyed, and some he repaired, -placing a Dizdár in each, and made his entry into Tiflís amidst the greatest -demonstrations of public joy. He fortified this castle to such an extent, that no -fortress of Georgia or Azerbeiján is equal to it, except that of Bakú and Megú. -The province was given with the rank of a Begler Beg to Mohammed Páshá the son -of Ferhád Páshá, then in possession of the sanjak of Kastemúní; its works were repaired, -and its stores completed. He sent the keys of no less than seventy large and -small castles to the Ottoman Court and then returned himself to Constantinople. -After his departure the Persians besieged the town of Tiflís for the space of seven -months. The garrison being in the greatest distress for food, eat their dogs first, and -then the dead; the famine was so great that the dog belonging to the Súbashí -Alí sold for seven thousand aspers. At last the governor of Erzerúm, Mustafa -Páshá, arrived with a flying troop, put the Persian General to flight and relieved -the garrison. Hassan Páshá the son of the Grand Vezír arrived with a caraván, -bringing three thousand camel loads of provisions, which were placed in the Maga<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span>zines -of the small castle. In short, this fortress remained in the hands of the Ottomans -from the time of Sultán Murad III. till that of Sultán Mustafa, when the -Persians united with the Georgians took the castle by surprise, and gave it up to -the Sháh; and it has remained ever since in the hands of the Persians. It is the -capital of Georgia, to which belongs sixteen Sultáns, seventy judges, forty districts -and seven tracts called Oimák. Three-tenths of Georgia are occupied by the -province of Tiflís; the khán commands two thousand soldiers, it has also a judge -and twelve public officers in honour of the twelve Imáms.</p> - - -<h3><i>Size and Figure of the Fortress.</i></h3> - -<p>It consists of two castles opposite to each other on the banks of the Kúr which -separates the rocks on which they stand, and which are connected above by a -bridge leading from one castle to the other. The great castle is on the south side -of the Kúr and the small one on the north of it. This river rises in the mountains -of Chaldir, passes Erdehán, Akhiska, and Azgúra and flows into the Caspian -Sea; the Persian historiographers say, that its waters are supplied from a thousand -and sixty sources; it is the largest river in these countries next to the Euphrates. -The circumference of the largest castle is six thousand paces, the wall sixty -cubits high, with seventy bulwarks, and three thousand battlements, but no ditch; -the water-tower which supplies water to the garrison in time of siege is situated -on the Kúr. In the castle are six hundred houses, terraced, some with and some -without gardens, the palace of the Khán, a mosque and a bath. The small -castle was built by Yezdejerd Sháh, it is of stone, in a square form with only one -gate at the head of the bridge, and has no Bezestán or Imáret.</p> - -<p>Three thousand watchmen light fires every night, and continually cry Khoda -Khob (all’s well.) Though it is a Persian town, yet its inhabitants are for the -most part Sunnís and Hanefis from the time of the Ottomans.</p> - - -<h3><i>Products.</i></h3> - -<p>The white bread of Tiflís, and the peaches are renowned; the vegetables exquisite; -there is no silk, but most excellent grapes: all these productions prosper -through the quantity of rain water which falls, and do not require water from -the Kúr, this is the case with an hundred and fifty towns and villages, which it -passes on its way.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Hotbath of Tiflís.</i></h3> - -<p>On the east side of the large castle a hot-spring boils out of the ground without -the assistance of fire; sheep’s heads and feet are cooked therein. There are also -several pilgrimages at Tiflís, as those of Imám Hossein Efendí, Rizwán Agha,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> -Jem Alí Efendí, &c. Tiflís is five hours distance from Kiákht, from the Castle of -Aras, four journies, and the same from that of Genje. We took from the -khán two hundred men to accompany us, and received three tománs for the -expenses of the journey.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle Kúsekht.</i></h3> - -<p>It stands on a chalk cliff, is of a square form, and belongs to the district of -Tiflís. The castle Lorí near Tiflís was seen on our right side in the mountains, -but we passed it at a great distance.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Súrán.</i></h3> - -<p>Though a small castle on a hill, yet it is extremely strong and high: it is one -of the oldest castles of Georgia built by Núshirván. Its inhabitants are Georgians, -Gokdúlák and Armenians. We proceeded four hours to the west, and reached -the old town Azgúr: according to the author of the Sheref-námeh, it is the oldest -town in Georgia, and was built by Alexander. In the Georgian language Azgúr -signifies the King of Kings. The immense blocks of stone used in the formation -of the walls, show that it must have been built by Alexander, because five hundred -men of the present age would not be able to move one of them; it stands on a high -hill, and is of a square form; it has one gate opening to the south, a mosque, a -bath, a khán, and forty small streets; the gardens are beautiful owing to the -mildness of the climate; the river which passes below it, issues from the mountains -of Akhiska through which it passes, and waters the gardens of the town, -falling into the Araxes. This town being on the frontier of Gurgistán Shúshád, -the inhabitants all speak Georgian.</p> - - -<h3><i>Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language.</i></h3> - -<p>One, <i>árí</i>; two, <i>úrí</i>; three, <i>sám</i>; four, <i>otkhí</i>; five, <i>khotí</i>; six, <i>egsí</i>; seven, -<i>shudi</i>; eight, <i>revaí</i>; nine, <i>khújraí</i>; ten, <i>atí</i>; bread, <i>púrí</i>; water, <i>chígál</i>; meat, -<i>kharj</i>; wine, <i>ghita</i>; cherries, <i>bák</i>; pears, <i>bishál</i>; figs, <i>lefi</i>; grapes, <i>kúrzení</i>; -hazel-nuts, <i>inikhlí</i>; melon, <i>nesú</i>; &c.</p> - - -<h3><i>Genealogy of the Georgian Kings.</i></h3> - -<p>Their first kings were Jews, then Dadiáns and Shúshád, from whom originated -the people of Gúriel, Achikbásh, and Mingrelia, who are all Christians. They -speak twelve different languages, and only understand each other by the aid of -interpreters. The purest language, according to their opinion, is that of the -Shúshád and Dadián. If the dynasty of the Moscovites should be extinguished,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> -the Princes of Georgia would succeed. The Aiza and Cherkessians who are an -Arabic colony, have no books at all; according to the histories of their priests -they descended from Keikavús, and then from David.</p> - -<p>There was formerly here a Queen who pretended to reign unmarried; one -night having drank with some young men, she was violated by one of them, and -got with child, which happened to be a girl. To get rid of the ravisher, the Queen -sent him fowl-hunting on a frozen canal, when the ice broke, and the man was -swallowed up, so that all talk about the matter was at an end. The daughter married -a Prince named Begdiván, and had three sons, who when of age, divided -Georgia into three parts. The first Prince obtained the district of Cotatis otherwise -called Básh Achik, and its inhabitants derive their descent from him. To the -second, Simon, was allotted the district of Tiflís; and to the youngest, the province -of Bághat; from the latter, the Dadiáns derive their lineage. This Dadián -Prince was a just monarch, and even now the whole of Georgia pay homage to -the Princes of Achikbásh and Dadián. When Sultán Selím I. was Governor of -Trebisonde, he lived on good terms with the Beg of Achikbásh, and spent some -time in the castle of Cotatis, and when he ascended the throne after Bayazíd II. he -exempted by a Khattí-sheríf, the inhabitants of Achikbásh from all gifts and -duties, a privilege they enjoy up to the present day; since that time it has only -been the custom to send annually falcons and fine youths as presents to the Porte. -We left the castle of Azgúr, and going westward through woods and fields, we -arrived all well at Chaldirán and Akhaskha.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultan Selím’s conquest.</i></h3> - -<p>This strong fortress of Akhaska is also spelled Akhachka, Akhjaska, Okhaskha, -and Oksakha, according to the difference of the languages of the surrounding -people. In the Imperial register it is laid down by the name of Chaldir. The -builder was Núshirván, the great Persian monarch who built the Ták Kesra. He -used to spend six months of the summer here, on account of its climate. It -would be too long to relate all the changes that this place underwent under -different kings. The first moslim conqueror of it was Heshám Ibn Abd-ul-Melek, -of the family of the Ommiades, who, proceeding from Syria with an immense -army, conquered Aintáb, Mera’ash, Malátia, Haleb, Diarbekr, Erzerúm, and -this castle of Akhaska, which then became the Capital of Georgia. He also -conquered Genje, Shirván, and Derbend, and returned to Damascus. Kara Yússúf, -the Prince of the dynasty of the Kara Koyúnlí, not being able to resist the arms -of Timúr, fled to Bayazíd I. for assistance, and Sultán Uzún Hassan became -the possessor of the castle of Akhaska. Paying homage to Timúr he was put in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span> -the number of eleven tributary princes, that marched by the side of Timúr’s horse, -who conferred upon him, the province of Azerbeiján. It afterwards came into -the power of Sháh Ismail of the Safí family, who chose Akhaska for his summer -quarters and subdued the whole of Georgia. He ravaged the Ottoman provinces, -and pushed his incursions up to Sivás, the granary of the Ottoman capital. -Selím I. was then governor of Trebisonde, and many times pursued the Persian -troops. Having himself ascended the throne, he immediately began the Holy -war, and fought the famous battle on the plain of Chaldir, which cost the lives of -one hundred thousand Persians, and nearly that of Sháh Ismail, who had a narrow -escape. He then conquered the castle Akhaska, and subdued the whole of Georgia. -A survey of it was commanded, and it was assigned as a government to a Páshá -of three tails. As this town is the frontier of Gúrjistán (Georgia), Turkistán, and -Kurdistán, in immediate contact with Persia, it was declared a separate Eyálet or -government, of which the following is the description in the Kanún-námeh of -Sultán Súleimán. The sanjak of Chaldir consists of thirteen sanjaks, the officers -are a public treasurer of the timárs (Timár Defterdárí); an inspector of the rolls -(Defter Emíní); a kiaya, an inspector and a secretary of the Chaúshes, (Chaúshlar -kiayassí, Emíní, and Kiátibí). The sanjaks are as follow: (1) Oltí; (2) -Khortíz; (3) Ardíkh; (4) Khajrek; (5) Erdehán; (6) Postkhú; (7) Mákhchíl; -(8) Achárpeník; (9) Akhachka, the seat of the Páshá. There are also four -hereditary sanjaks Yordlik, or Ojáklik, viz. Portekrek, Lesána, Nussf Levána, -and Shúshád; making in all thirteen.</p> - - -<h3><i>Khass or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs.</i></h3> - -<p>Khass of the Beg of Oltí, two hundred thousand and seventeen aspers; Portek, -forty-six thousand two hundred and nineteen; Ardenj, two hundred and -eighty thousand; Erdehán, three hundred thousand; Shúshád, six hundred -and fifty six thousand; Lesána, three hundred and sixty-five thousand; Khartíz, -two hundred thousand five hundred; Khajrek, three hundred and sixty-five -thousand; Postkhú, two hundred and six thousand five hundred; Makhjíl, -twenty thousand three hundred and eleven; Ajára, two hundred thousand; -Penek, four hundred thousand.</p> - - -<h3><i>Number of Ziámets and Timárs.</i></h3> - -<p>The ziámets and timárs are altogether six hundred and fifty-six swords, which -with the Jebellis form eight hundred men; and with the troops of the Páshá -fifteen hundred troops. In the sanjak Oltí, three ziámets, a hundred and thirteen -timárs; Erdehán, eight ziámets, eighty-seven timárs; Ardíkh, four ziámets,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span> -forty-two timárs; Khajrek, two ziamets, seventy-two timárs; Khartíz, thirteen -ziámets, thirty-five timárs; Postkhú, twelve ziámets, twenty-eight timárs; Penek, -eight ziámets, fifty-four timárs; Sászín, seven ziámets, thirty-two timárs; Khatla, -nineteen ziámets, seven timárs; Isper, four ziámets, fourteen timárs. These -feudal troops are commanded by their Yúzbashí (Lieutenants), Cheribashí -(Captains), and Alaï-Beg (Colonels). They possess a thousand and sixty villages on -condition of going to war when called upon, the annual revenue of which amounts -to three hundred and twenty Ottoman purses. In the time of Selím I. the Páshá -of this province, commanded those of Erzerúm, Sivás, Mera’ash, Adana, and -Rakka. The place of a judge with the rank of Molla was given to Ramazán -Efendí with five hundred aspers, now it has a judge with three hundred aspers; -he may however annually collect from the districts belonging to his jurisdiction, the -sum of eighty purses. The Khass of the Begler-beg amounts to four hundred -thousand aspers; the garrison consists of two thousand men, regular troops, with -an Aghá of the janissaries, of the Jebejí and of the Topjí. In the year 1044 -(1634) the Persians became masters of Chaldirán, but after the conquest of -Eriván, Canaan Páshá was sent by Sultán Murad IV. with an immense army -who conquered the fortress of Akhachka, and put it in a good state of repair, in -which it is kept by the Ottomans, up to the present time.</p> - - -<h3><i>Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a square castle built of stone, standing on a chalk cliff, with two gates and -about a thousand houses without gardens covered with terraces. One of the two -gates leads to the east, and the other to the west, there are twenty-eight mosques. -The old mosque in the upper castle is covered with earth. There is no Imáret -(religious foundation) covered with lead in this fortress. The mosque of Kunbet-oghlí -is also covered with earth, and without a minareh. In the lower castle is -the mosque of Khalíl Aghá. Besides the five legal prayers a day, there are certain -lectures in all these mosques on the Korán and tradition, but there are no -private rooms or establishments for these lectures. The Muderris (Professors) -hold them in the mosques, the students (Thelebe) are numerous. The suburb -outside of the castle is well built, and its baths pleasant, but the bath inside the -castle is very small; the best is that outside the eastern gate of the castle, the -waiters are fine Georgian boys; there are a great number of kháns; no vineyards -(Bágh), but in some places gardens (Bághje); a large number of gardens of -fruit trees (Mushebek-bostán) full of valuable trees, well watered by springs. -The water of this place comes from the mountains of Uda, waters the fields of -the town, goes straight to the castle of Arghán, and falls near the Castle of Kúrehkt<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> -into the Araxes. The passage between the castle and the suburb is established -by a bridge; the suburb is not surrounded by walls; the market consists of about -three hundred shops, but no Bezestán of stone. The temperature of this place -being fresh and invigorating its people are strong and brave also; the Páshá Sefer -Páshá, by birth a Georgian, is one of the most wise and virtuous Vezírs of the -Ottoman Court. Eriván is six journeys from Akhashka to the east, and mid -way is the Castle of Karss. From Akhaskha to Tiflís is five journeys towards -the north-east, to Genje five journeys direct east, and seven journeys to the north -is the castle of Georgia. The fortress of Akhaska is situated between them all in -the plain of Chaldir.</p> - - -<h3><i>Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir.</i></h3> - -<p>The castle of Khartíz near Chaldir was conquered in the year 886 (1481), by -Lala Páshá, together with the castle of Adhil, and the castle of Perkán near Chaldir -at a journey’s distance, situated between two high mountains on a high hill. The -castle of Cotatis is two journies distance from Chaldir, it is the capital of the -district of Ajikbásh near mount Perírat. It is the proper residence of Georgia -otherwise called Shúshád, and Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, sometimes -came hither to divert himself. It was created by him a hereditary province -(Ojáklik), the khass of which amounts to six thousand and six aspers. There are -no ziámets and timárs. The castle of Khajrek, situated between Akhachka and -Erdehán, is the residence of the Sanjak-Beg of Burdehán, and was conquered by -Lala Páshá; the Khass amounts to three hundred and sixty-five thousand aspers, -six ziámets and twenty-two timárs. The castle of Shatán, which by mistake is called -Sheitán Kala’am, (the Castle of Satan), was conquered by Ferhád Páshá in the year -990 (1582); it is situated near Chaldir, on a steep rock. The castle of Kizlar (of -the maiden) near Chaldir, on the border of the river Jágh, is a magic castle. The -castle of Altún (gold), the conquest of Lala Páshá, is three hours distance from -the latter. The castle of Odoria near Chaldir, the conquest of Lala Páshá. The -castle of Al near Akhaska. The castle of Postkhú, which is the seat of a Sanjak -Beg in the province of Akhaska, was conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 998 -(1589); a jurisdiction, the judge of which is appointed with one hundred and fifty -aspers. There is an Alaï Beg and Cheríbashí. Shúshádistán is the name of one -of the principal provinces of Georgia, governed by a Begler-beg. Shúshád, the -castle, has no judge. Shúshádistán is a mountainous tract full of precipices. The -castle of Kharbe on the border of a valley, is a steep castle. The castle of Ardíkh, -the seat of a Sanjak-beg in the province of Chaldir, a conquest of Lala Páshá. -The castle of Akhanjí, the seat of a Sanjak-beg. The castle of Jághirmán near<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> -Chaldir, conquered by Lala Páshá. Besides these castles there are a great -number of others seen on the great road. Georgia is indeed a fine and well -cultivated country. After having seen all this, I took leave of Sefer Páshá, who -presented me with two Georgian boys, a horse, and a hundred piastres; I took -an escort and began my journey westward to Erzerúm.</p> - - -<h3><i>Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm.</i></h3> - -<p>We passed the summer quarters of Ulghár, and arrived at the end of four -hours at the castle of Kínava on the frontier of Ardehán; we passed through a -mountainous tract and at last arrived at the Castle of Kara Ardehán, which was -conquered in the time of Selím I. and made the seat of a Sanjak Beg; the khass -is three hundred thousand aspers, eight ziámets, and eighty-seven timárs; an Alaï -Beg, (Colonel); Cheribashí, (Captain); Dizdár, (Commander of the castle); are -the commanding officers of the garrison, which consists of two hundred men; -the whole contingent in war time including the troops of the Beg amounts to one -thousand men. The judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers. There -is no Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Sheriffs or relations of the prophet) and its -Muftí resides at Akhaska. The castle is built on a rock, and is five hundred paces -in circumference; it is not commanded by any neighbouring height, it has two -hundred and seventy towers, and three gates. A company of armourers -(Jebejí) of the Porte, is in garrison here. In the town, the family establishment -(Khandán) of Kia Páshá is the most renowned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán.</i></h3> - -<p>The castle of Wálá, conquered by Lala Páshá 987 (1579); the castle of Kermek, -conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castle of Akhársin, -conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castles of Mamerván and -Nazarbán, the latter built by Ghází Sefer Páshá in the year 1053 (1643); the -castle Kense Dusál in the district of Erdehán on a hill; its water flows to Erdehán. -The houses all have terraces; there is no college, but a school for boys. No -gardens on account of the temperature, which is rather cold. Its fruits come -from the castle of Tortúm and Acháras; the inhabitants are all Sunnís, and live -by agriculture. This castle is five journeys to the east of Erzerúm; and Karss -is one journey’s distance from Erzerúm by the way of Kargha-bazár. We then -passed westward sometimes on a stony and woody ground, sometimes in rich -meadows, and arrived at the castle of Gúle. It was built by Levend-Khán, a -Georgian Prince, and is the seat of a Sanjak Beg, the khass of which is three -hundred thousand aspers; it has a Colonel, Captain, Dizdár and garrison; it is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> -an elegant castle on a chalk hill. Eight hours further to the west, we reached -the castle of Penek also named after its Georgian builder, it is the seat of a -sanjak Beg subordinate to Chaldir; its khass is four hundred thousand aspers. -Its feudatory militia with the troops of the Beg are a thousand men; there is a -judge with a hundred and fifty aspers, no market nor garden. The water of the -river is very good, its subjects are Armenians, Gokdulak, and Georgians. Seven -hours further is the Castle of Uliní, built by a Georgian king, and conquered by -Sultán Selím; it is the seat of a Sanjak Beg, whose Khass is two hundred thousand -and seventeen aspers. And has a Colonel, a Captain, a Judge with a hundred and -fifty aspers, a Dizdár, and garrison; the castle stands on a chalk hill with two gates, -one opening to the east, and the other to the west. At the foot of the castle -flows the river Oltí, which waters the gardens of the town, and enters the Aras -on the Kiblah side. The houses are all inhabited and covered with terraces. -There are a number of mosques, a khán, a bath, garden, and school for boys; its -beauties are celebrated. The inhabitants are good moslims. From hence we -travelled direct north, and came at the end of two hours to the castle of Maverván -built by the Georgian Kings, and conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá; it -is the seat of a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Erzerúm, whose khass amounts to two -hundred and three thousand aspers; the officers are a Colonel and Captain of -the feudal militia. The militia of the Beg amounts to fifteen hundred men; the -judge is appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers. The castle is of a square -form and gigantic size, standing upon a hill; its gate looks to the Kibláh, -there are eight hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, and a khán, the inhabitants -are almost all poor people. Three hours further on to the west, is the village -Aide Mamerván, a village inhabited by Armenians and Moslims. Further on -among bleak mountains is the village Karakunk, it belongs to the district of -Erzerúm; we passed the straight of Georgia and arrived at the village of -Osmúdúm Sultán, a fine kent of a hundred houses on the border of a high -mountain; it is situated at the very source of the Euphrates, which issues from a -cavern in the mountain of Dúmlí Sultán, a delightful, refreshing water, which -seems to be alluded to in the Korán by the verse: “I gave thee the Keuther.” -Trouts of a cubit’s length sport in it; their bodies are ruby-coloured and interspersed -with smaragdine spots. Umúdúm Sultán the Saint, who is buried here, -protects these fish, so that it is impossible to catch them; but a farsang below -they are taken by fishermen, and fill the brains of those who eat them with -ambergris; however much a man may eat, he is never incommoded by them. -The Pilgrimage to Rúmlí Sultán is much frequented. We marched five hours to -the south, on the plain of Erzerúm and entered it, God be thanked! in perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> -health. Before I changed my dress, I laid the letters and presents of the khán -of Eriván at the feet of my gracious Lord the Páshá, and gave him a detailed -account of all the castles, towns, kents and villages, which I had seen on my -journey. He gave me a splendid dress and three hundred piastres bath-money, -besides two purses, which he assigned to me on the extraordinary revenues of -the custom-houses. I had remained scarcely a week, when a message arrived -from the Khán of Eriván complaining that some of the soldiers of Karss had -molested one of his caravans, and requesting that an Aghá might be sent to -convey the caraván safe to Erzerúm. In consequence of this letter I was sent -back into Persia on the tenth day.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="JOURNEY_TO_ERIVAN_IN_THE_YEAR_1057_1647">JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR, 1057, (1647).</h2></div> - - -<p>From Erzerúm twelve hours to the east, is the castle of Hassan Kala’a which -has already been described; and further on to the east, through the plain of Pássin, -the village Bádil Jovánlí, an Armenian village. We passed it, and reached in nine -hours the station of Meidánjik; the inhabitants are all Armenians. Ten hours -further is the castle of Mishingerd in the province of Erzerúm, a square castle on a -chalk cliff; which has a Dizdár and a hundred and fifty men, two hundred houses, -but no market; a mosque of Sultán Súleimán Khán, without a garden. We -passed to the east, through the valley of Khándere, by the ruined convent called -the seven churches, through a narrow straight, and then to the west by a flowery -meadow for six hours to the castle Bardúz, in the territory of Karss, built by -Lady Kerím-ud-din, the daughter of King Azz-ud-din of the dynasty of the Auk-koyúnlí. -The chronograph is written on the gate; there is a Dizdár and a -hundred and fifty men in garrison, a small bath, but no garden. From hence -we went southward to the castle of Gejkerán built by Núshirván; this is the old -town of Dúdemán Gejkerán which is mentioned in the ancient histories of the wars -of Pízen and Efrasiáb. It was ruined by Holagú at the same time as Baghdád, -but flourished again under the government of Kara Yússúf Sháh of the family of -the Kara Koyúnlí. Timúr again destroyed it. It was conquered by Lala Kara -Mustafa Páshá, and now belongs to the government of Karss, it is a square castle. -The karss of the Beg amounts to fifteen thousand three hundred and fifty aspers. -According to the canon of Sultán Súleimán there are two thousand two hundred -men including the troops of the Beg; a Dizdár, an Aghá of the Azábs and Gonullí, -with three hundred men in garrison, a judge of a hundred and fifty aspers, twelve -hundred houses covered with earth, three small mosques, and from forty to fifty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> -shops. Eight hours further to the east we reached the frontier fortress of the -Ottomans, the castle of Karss. There are three towns of that name; one is in -Silefka, the Karss of Karatáshlik; the second, the Karss of Mera’ash, and the last -that of Dúdemán, which is the present one. In the time of Murad III. it was -conquered by Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá. The repairing this town after it was -ruined by the Persians, was undertaken by the Ottoman generals, and on this -occasion a large square marble stone was found, which they placed on the gate -looking to the south-east, and which had the following inscription:—“This -Castle was built under Vezír Fírúz Akaí in the time of Sultán Azz-ud-dín; and -repaired by his daughter Sultana Karím-ud-dín. May God illuminate her tomb!” -Lala Páshá who is the last builder of Karss, placed this stone on the wall, however, -out of reverence for its ancient builders. Lala Páshá repaired it in seventy -days, within which time he completed its munition. A soldier came to relate to -him a dream which he had, and which was as follows. An old man appeared to -him, saying, his name was Abúl Hassan Kharkaní, that he was buried here, and -that if a well at his feet was to be dug, marvellous things would be seen. Some -hundred workmen were instantly set to dig the well, when they found a red granite -tomb, on which was written “I am the martyr, Saíd Kharkání.” He was found -quite fresh, and the blood yet flowing from his right arm. The tomb was re-covered -amidst prayers, and Lala Páshá raised a convent upon it. The government -of Karss has been given at different times to Vezírs of three tails as barley-money -(Arpalik); the karss is sixty thousand aspers. It belonged formerly to -the government of Erzerúm, but is now a distinct province with the addition of -Pássin. There are seven sanjaks, a Kiaya, and Emín of the Defter, a Defterdár -of the treasury and of the timárs, but no Kiatib Kiaya and Emín of the Chaúshes, -Its sanjaks are; Little Erdehán; Khojúján; Zárshád; Gejewán; Kaghzmán; -Werishán, and Karss the seat of the Páshá, there are seven ziámets and a hundred -and two timárs, with the Jebellis and troops of the Páshá, three thousand exquisite -troops; a Colonel, a Captain, a judge with three hundred aspers, a Dizdár, -an Aghá of seven companies of Azábs, and an Aghá of the Janissaries, armourers, -and gunners; the Colonels reside for the most part at Erzerúm: the garrison -consists of fifteen hundred excellent men; the garrisons of Wán, Karss, and -Akhachka are decidedly brave men. Their pay is collected from the produce of -the ferry-boats at Bírejik on the Euphrates, and from the villages Súrúj and Bombúj -at Haleb, amounting annually to seventy thousand aspers. The government of -Karss is divided into ten jurisdictions, and eight districts; there is a Sheikh-ul-Islám -(Muftí); Nakíb-ul-ishráf (head of the Emírs), and other distinguished men.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Size of the castle of Karss.</i></h3> - -<p>At a gun-shot distance on the north side is a high mountain, at the foot of which -this fortress rises on a separate hill; the lower castle is situated in the plain, and -has five strong walls. The gate of the outer or lower castle looks to the east, and -that of the inner or upper castle to the west. There is only the house of the -commander, and barracks for the garrison of two hundred men; no bath, market, -or any remarkable building. The lower town or suburb is surrounded by two -strong walls, and has three iron gates which are adorned with all kinds of armour. -One of these gates on the west is the water-gate, also called the gate of the -troops, looking towards Erzerúm; the second or middle gate opens to Kaghzmún; -the third to the east is the gate of Behrám-páshá, opening towards Eriván. -Watchmen keep watch the whole night, lighting torches and lamps. The lower -castle is surrounded by a lake instead of a ditch, which encircles it from the -middle gate to the gate of Behrám-páshá, and hence it is impossible to get -possession of the fortress. There are two hundred and twenty strong towers, -and two thousand and eighty battlements; the circumference of the whole is five -thousand seven hundred paces. The buildings consist of three thousand houses, -forty-seven mosques, in eight of which prayer is performed on Fridays; the most -remarkable is that of Sheikh Hassan Kharkání, built by Lala Páshá; the -mosque of Waíz Efendí at the water-gate; the great mosque of Súleimán Efendí, -which was formerly a church; the mosque of Hossein Kiaya called the red -church; the mosque of Omar Efendí, which was destroyed when the Persians got -possession of the castle, solely on account of being named after Omar, and turned -into a stable; the mosque of Káltákjí-zadeh, at the gate of Behrám-páshá; the -mosque of Beirám Chelebi-zadeh; and on the south side of the town across the -bridge, the mosque of Emír Yússúf Páshá, all covered with terraces. There -are eighteen schools for boys, but no colleges for lectures on the sciences, -which are all held in the mosques. Within the water-gate is the bath of Emír -Yússúf Páshá; within the middle gate is the old bath. There are no houses for -reading of the Korán or tradition, or for dining the poor, who are, however, well -taken care of by private generosity; there is no stone Bezestán, but two hundred -shops in which Indian and Persian wares are found. No gardens and vineyards -on account of the cold temperature of the climate. The inhabitants are a lively -set of people who gain their living by agriculture and commerce.</p> - -<p>We travelled from Karss twelve hours to the north, passed the village of Arjúk -and the valley of Bághirsak, and the summer quarter (Yaila) of Olghár twelve -hours long. It is three journies from hence to the castle of Akhiska (otherwise -Akhaska, Akhachka). From Karss to Erdehán is one journey by the way of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span> -Korgha-bazár. I arrived at last at the object of my journey, the castle of Gúle, -and on the same day I entered it, read the letters of our gracious Lord, the -Páshá of Erzerúm, to the Aghás of Gúle, who excused themselves, saying: “that -they never had disturbed the Persian caraván, and that it was a calumny of the -inhabitants of Kaghzemán.” Next day we mounted our horses, proceeded for a -whole day to the south, and arrived at the castle of Kaghzemán. The towns and -castles on the Kiblah side of the Aras are all reckoned to be on the frontier of Azerbeiján. -The river Aras rises on the west from the mountains of Bíngol (thousand -lakes) flows to the east, joins the barley river (Arpachayí), and the Zenghí. The -castle of Kaghzemán being situated on the Kiblah side of the Aras is reckoned to -be on the frontier of Azerbeiján, but belongs to the Ottoman government of Karss. -It is named after its builder, one of the daughters of Núshirván. It was taken out -of the hands of Uzún Hassan by Sháh Ismail, and then submitted to Sultán Súleimán. -It is the seat of a Sanjak Beg whose khass amounts to two hundred thousand -aspers, nine ziámets, a hundred and seventy-eight timárs; nine hundred feudal -militia, a judge appointed with a hundred and fifty aspers, and a garrison of three -hundred men, who are paid by the impost on salt; the salt mines, and a quarry of -mill stones, are on the west side of the castle. The mill-stones of Persia and Rúm -come from Kaghzemán; the borax of the goldsmiths, barbers, whetting-stones, -and the common whetting-stones are extracted from the mines of Kaghzemán; -in two places gold and silver are found, but as the product was exceeded by the -expenses, they were abandoned; there are altogether eleven mines. The castle -is a square strong building standing on a hill on the bank of the Aras, there are -seven hundred small houses; it is not a commercial town (Bender), but a frontier -town (Serhadd). Mount Aghrí which appears to the west, is one of the most -praiseworthy mountains in the world, it is near the town, and is the summer -abode (Yaila) of Turcomans. The air is temperate and allows of the cultivation -of gardens on some spots; the inhabitants are mild and some of them fair.</p> - -<p>The Levend troops (irregular levies) sing Persian songs with harmonious voices. -As soon as I entered the town, the Diván assembled, and notwithstanding the -repeated oaths of the members of it, that they had not molested the Persian -caravan, but only taken their custom duties, I took seven Aghás of them with -me to prove the truth of what they said, by their presence at Erzerúm, whereunto -I returned. The Beg and eleven Aghás presented me with a purse of money, two -horses (Mahmúdí), and two Georgian slaves; and we travelled towards the east -for nine hours, to the castle of Moghazberd, it is a district belonging to Karss, -built by Mogház a Persian Khán; it passed into the hands of the Ak-koyúnlí of -Sháh Ismail, and then into those of Sultán Súleimán; the garrison consists of a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span> -hundred and fifty men; the castle is built of stone in a pentagon form on a rock, not -commanded by any neighbouring height; it has six hundred houses with gardens -and vineyards; a mosque, khán, bath and ten shops; at the foot of this castle -flows the river Arpachaí, which comes from the mountains of Georgia, and mingles -with the Aras at the Kend of Tekeltí. The castle of Mogházberd is contiguous -to the territory of the Persian castle Shúregil, which alone remained in the power -of the Persians, meanwhile all the districts of it belong to the government of -Karss; the river Arpachaí forms the limits: the eastern tract of this town is -Persian, and the western, Ottoman, belonging to Karss. Opposite to Mogházberd, -at a journey’s distance, is the castle of Ana on a hill, a square mud castle, built by -Núshirván, the inhabitants are Armenians; between Ana and Karss are two -mountains; we passed this castle and after nine hours journey we arrived at -Zárshid on the utmost frontier, built by the Persian Sháhs, it is the seat of a -Sanjak Beg subordinate to Karss; in the time of war, twelve hundred men bear -arms, the judge has a hundred and fifty aspers; there is no Muftí nor Nakíb; -but a Dizdár (Commander of the castle) and a hundred and fifty men. The -castle is situated on a hill in a plain, at a day’s journey from Karss to the east on -the road to Eriván, there are three hundred houses with terraces, a mosque, a -convent, a bath, and a khan. Nine hours further eastward is the kent Thálish, -on the frontier of Eriván; we passed Kara Taib, and arrived after twelve hours -march to the east at Three Churches, a great convent built by the Greek -Emperors; the convent is divided into three parts, in one are Greek, in the -others Armenian nuns; these Three Churches and the Seven Churches on the -road to Nakhshiván are the most famous convents of Persia. It is a convent well -worth seeing on account of its monuments and strange talismans.</p> - -<p>The balsam, called Mirún-yághí, is made here, of plants boiled in a kettle upon -a carpet, to which fire does no harm; the balsam which is skimmed off from the -kettle is put into jars, and used through the whole of Frengistán as a panacea or -universal remedy. In the neighbourhood of this castle is an iron bar suspended -in a cave without being supported up from above below; the Infidels believe it to -have been suspended by a miracle of Simeon the Apostle: if a strong wind blows -it vibrates, and it is enclosed by iron rails to prevent it being touched by the -profane. The explanation of this matter is, that the architect who made the vault -of this cave, placed on the top of it a great magnet, and a similar one on the -floor, so that the iron bar is kept in equilibrium between them. This is what I, -shortsighted Evliyá, found out by my own weak intellect. If it please God, -there is no blunder in our guess. The convent is inhabited by about five hundred -monks; almost every night five or six hundred horsemen, either from Persia<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span> -or Turkey arrive here, and are entertained by the monks with milk, honey and -dates. From hence we passed to the east through level fields for nine hours, -crossed the great rivers Aras and Zenghí, and arrived for the second time at -Eriván, where the Khán had just returned from the wedding of his sister at Bakú, -and lodged me at his house. The next day I repaired to the Diván with the -Aghás of Karss and Kaghzemán, who complained, in the strongest terms, of -their having been unjustly accused of molesting the Persian caravan; a long -discussion ensued, at the end of which the Aghás appeared to be innocent, and -the men of the caraván to be calumniators. Takkí Alí Khán feasted the Aghás -three days, gave me five tománs Abássí, and a horse, and for the Páshá a string -of camels, laden with rice, also some letters. Charged with these, I set out to -return to Erzerúm.</p> - - -<h3><i>Journeys on our Return.</i></h3> - -<p>We set out from Eriván, with a caraván of seven hundred persons toward the -west, and reached after five hours the kent Abdallí, a Persian village of a hundred -houses, which at the time of the conquest was fixed to be the frontier of -Karss. We advanced to the north four hours to kent Ayárán with five hundred -houses; the inhabitants of which are Gokdúlak; from hence through mountains -of luxuriant vegetation to kent Sheráb-kháneh, situated on a hill, of three hundred -Armenian houses with many gardens, it is a ziámet on the frontier of Karss. -We continued our journey to the west, passing over fertile steppes, and seeing -many castles, which had been ruined by Sultán Murad IV. After four hours we -arrived at kent Begum; the daughter of Uzún Hassan Sháh of that name built -it; the Persian Princesses are even now styled Beghum: there are three hundred -houses of Armenians and Georgians; it was ruined by Timúr, but seven high -arches are still extant among the ruins on the border of Arpachaí, where the -Princes of the Ak-koyúnlí, Meimendi Khán, Ashár Khán, Otgabai Khán, Gúndúzbai -Khán and other Sháhs are buried, some lying, some seated on their -thrones, as if they were in life, with their names, and the chronographs of their -deaths. The three sides of this old town are a great Yaila. From hence we -went to the west through marshy ground, and some meadows, to the old castle -of Shúreger; Hossein Bikara, delighted with its situation on the river Arpachaí, -built this town according to the advice of Doctor Shúrgerí; it passed into the -hands of Kara Yússúf and was destroyed by Timúr; Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá -ruined it again; large vaults and masses are yet conspicuous amongst its ruins. -The musical tune Shureh is said to have been invented by Shúreger at the time he -was building this town, whose inhabitants all delight in music, and are famous -singers. The castle is in ruins, and no more than three hundred houses with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> -terraces are now existing. The half of its districts being situated on the other -bank of Arpachaí belong to the government of Eriván; those on this side to -Karss. It is a mountainous fertile tract of Georgia which extends northward to the -Aras and Zenghí, and along Mount Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; and on the west -to Erzerúm. From Shúreger we advanced to the west, crossing five small -rivers, some of which come from Georgia, some from the mountains of Azghúr, -and flow into the Aras; some of the ground is marshy. We then arrived at the -ferry of a river, the name of which I am ignorant of. Sultán Murad crossed this -river on his expedition to Eriván, and the spot is yet marked, where his tent was -fixed; the inhabitants planted trees round it, and made it a prayer-place. Five -hours further to the west through fertile ground is the village of Búlánik, a free -ziámet of Sefer Aghá, of three hundred houses. Seven hours further is the castle -of Karss; we remained a night as guests with Alí Aghá, and continued our journey -next day to the village of Dushen Kia (the falling rock), on the frontier of Karss, -with two hundred houses; then five hours, ascending and descending through high -fir-woods and meadows to Wernishán on the frontier of Karss, formerly a sanjak. -The opposite shore of the Aras belongs to the castle of Bayazíd, and the Alaï Beg -of Wernishán resides here; it is an Armenian village of three hundred houses. -Akhiska is two journeys from hence to the north; six hours further to the west -through fields to Zeinkhán on the territory of Karss, of two hundred houses, a Dizdár, -a garrison, a khán, a mosque, a bath, and forty shops; it is the seat of a Súbáshí -subordinate to Karss; the castle is square and built of stone, the inhabitants are -an obstinate people. We continued our journey through fir woods for seven -hours to Soghánlí Belí, a strait famous all over Persia and Turkey for the -difficulty in crossing it; three hours beyond this straight we reached the kent -Kúmadámí, of a hundred and fifty houses, on the frontier of sanjak Pássín, an -Armenian village on the banks of the Aras. Eight hours further is the village of -Pássín, of three hundred Armenian houses, in a plain, it is the ziámet of Ja’afer -Efendí the land registrar (Moharerí Wiláyet) at Erzerúm; five hours further along -the Aras is the station of Goz; we passed in sight of the bridge of Chobán, built -by the dynasty of that name, through level fields, and arrived at Hassan Kala’a, -which has been already described. Four hours from hence we arrived safe at -Erzerúm, where we found our gracious Lord the Páshá, on the walk of Abd-ur-rahman -Ghází; I presented the camels, letters and caraván of the khán of Eriván, -and reassumed my functions as Clerk of the Custom-house, assisting every night -at the assemblies of the Páshá. At this time the Capijí Alí Aghá arrived from -Constantinople, with a Khattí-sheríf of Sultán Ibrahím, by which the Páshá -received the Imperial command to repair with all the troops of his government to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span> -Karss, to be ready for the war against the Infidel Persians. The Páshá paid -obeisance to the noble túghra and instantly dispatched commissaries to Erzerúm, -Mera’ash and Sívás, in order to raise and collect troops. I, poor Evliyá, received -a commission to go to Sídí Ahmed Páshá, the governor of the sanjaks of Sánja -and Tortúm.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a name="JOURNEY_TO_BAIBURD_JANJA_ISPER_TORTUM" id="JOURNEY_TO_BAIBURD_JANJA_ISPER_TORTUM">JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, TORTUM -AND AKCHEKALA’A.</a></h2></div> - - -<p>I left Erzerúm with nine servants, proceeding to the north in the plain of -Erzerum, two hours to the village of Kán, of two hundred Armenian houses; five -hours more to the north we came to the village of Sheikh Umúdúm, which has -been described in our journey to Georgia. Six hours further to the north, through -vallies and hills, to the bridge of the Georgian straight, a bridge built over the -Euphrates by Shah Uzún Hassan. It is on this spot that the rebel Abáza Páshá -cut to pieces forty regiments of janissaries sent against him; their bones are -piled up near the bridge: the village of Gúrgí-boghází (Georgian straight), has two -hundred houses, in the district of Erzerúm. We passed to the north over flowery -meadows nine hours to Rúmlí Sultán, a great saint buried underneath a cupola. -Here is the cave whence springs the Euphrates, which is above all praise, since it -is mentioned with praise in the Korán. At Keifí, one of the sanjaks of Erzerúm, -are the iron mines, where iron shot are cast; several hundred little rivulets -run from these iron mines into the Euphrates, and somewhat spoil the sweetness of -the water; but from its source in the rock of Rumlí Sultán unto Keifí it is the -most delicious and most healthy water in the world. Rumlí Sultán was a Saint, -who appreciating the good qualities of this river, took up his residence at its source; -it is a village of two hundred houses. We advanced three hours to the north to -Akchekala’a in the territory of the sanjak of Tortúm, built by Ulama Páshá in -order to control Georgia; in course of time the castle has been dismantled of its -walls and garrison. It lies north of Tortúm, and has six hundred houses, a khán, -and a mosque; it was destroyed by Bayazíd II. when governor of Trebisonde in his -youth. We proceeded six hours to the west, to the village of Saúlú of a hundred -houses in the territory of Jánja, on the top of a high mountain without gardens; -and seven hours further to the west, to the castle of Jánja, otherwise Gumish -Kháneh (silver house). I went straight to the Court of Justice, and read the firman, -which all the inhabitants were ready to obey. I remained as guest in the house -of the inspector of the silver mines and began to visit the town. It was built by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> -Alexander, one of whose philosophers discovered the silver mines. Mohammed -II. conquered it by the sword after the defeat of Uzún Hassan in the field of -Terján. Silver is here found in such abundance, that every child has a silver -plate. The inspectorship is let for seven million aspers; the inhabitants are -exempted from all taxes, because they are obliged to labour in the silver mines, -seventy of which are worked. These are the richest silver mines in Turkey, -the others are those of Kághzemán, Hakkárí, Bingol, Sanjar, Akár, Aswán, -Libanon, and Merzifún. These are the Asiatic and African silver mines of the Ottoman -Empire; the European ones are the following: on the frontier of Bosnia, -Sira, Berinjesse near Uskúb at Karatova, Novaborda near Pereshtina, Sidr Kaissi -near Salonia; but their veins are thin; those of Jánja are as big as an arm, perfectly -pure silver: There was also a mint here, but it is now abandoned, I -however, got some aspers with the inscription, coined at Jánja. After taking a -good view of the town I was presented by the principal men with three hundred -piastres, a vase for rosewater (gulábdán), and a censer (bokhúrdán) of silver, -and after two days march through mountains and straights I arrived at the old -fortress of Baibúrd. The Princes of the family of Akkoyúnlí, who came with the -Dánishmend family, and with the ancestors of the Ottomans from Mahán to Rúm, -first settled here, and having found a rich treasure of silver in the mines, by which -they became rich (Bai), the place was called Baiyúrd, which was changed into -Baibúrd. Mahmúd Pasha the Vezír of Mohammed II. conquered it from Uzún -Hassan. According to the description of Sultán Súleímán, it is the seat of a -Súbashí separated from the khass of the Vezír of Erzerúm, a jurisdiction of a -hundred and fifty aspers, the revenues of the judge amount annually to six purses. -There is a Muftí, a Nakíb, Sipáh-kiayayerí, and Yenicherí-serdárí.</p> - - -<h3><i>Form and size of the Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>It is a pentagon, and stands on a high hill, the height of the wall is forty royal -cubits, it has no ditch, on account of its position; there are three hundred old -houses, but no market, khán, or bath; two gates, one to the east, opening towards -the gardens, and one to the west, by which you descend to the lower -town, consisting of more than a thousand houses with terraces; there are nineteen -quarters of Moslims, and nine of Armenians; no Jews nor gipsies, but a great -number of Greeks, because it is not far from the seashore. A great number of -its inhabitants are Turks and Turcomans. Mohammed II. transplanted hither a -colony of three thousand men of the inhabitants of Tíre, whose descendants are -very orderly, good men. Its mosques are pleasant, the most frequented of them is -that of the conqueror, in the Castle; in the market that of Záhid Efendí, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> -mosque covered with a terrace in the olden style; its minareh is a slender building -of bricks; at its left are the Court of Justice, the Imperial dyeing-house and -the Flour-hall. Near to the women’s bath is the mosque of Kázizádeh Mohammed -Chelebi, an old but sweet mosque; near the river Jorúgh, is the mosque of -Shengel-baí; the part of the town beyond the river Jorúgh is called Yoris -Mahallessí; there is a dining establishment and college, with three baths, the first -is the bath at the bridge; the second, that of Alí Shengáh; the third, the red -bath; the temperature of these baths is most excellent: there are three convents -of Dervishes, and a great khán close to the mosque of Kázizádeh; before this khán -there is a market every Sunday attended by from five hundred to a thousand -persons; three hundred shops, an elegant Bezestán, and some coffee-houses. -Of its provisions, fresh butter, white pies, and a kind of wheat called camel’s -teeth are much renowned; so are also the carpets and felts of Baibúrd, light, -well-coloured, fanciful carpets, which are exported into all countries. The air -being rather cold, it is not very favourable to flowers and fruits, but it is amply -provided with fruit from the neighbouring places. There are some pretty faces, -and seventy schools for boys, who are quick and clever; the old men live to the age -of a hundred and fifty, who losing their teeth pronounce with difficulty the letter -S, but the women are very eloquent. Erzerúm is two journeys direct north from -hence. A man may go from here to Erzerúm, by footpaths, in two days, and on -horseback in four days.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the River Jorúgh.</i></h3> - -<p>It rises in the mountains of Erzerúm, supplies water to a great number of fields, -and flows straight to the lower town of Baibúrd; the two banks are adorned -with many elegant palaces and koshks and gardens, where the inhabitants delight -to fish; its name is corrupted from Júírúh (river of spirit) a name it well deserves -by its most excellent qualities. The inhabitants of the town cut their wood on -the mountain, and putting on it a private mark throw it into the river, which -it floats down until it is stopped in the middle of the town by a great rake, -where each person comes to fetch out his wood. This river comes to Baibúrd -from the east, washes the rocks of the castle, passes through many well-cultivated -villages, and flows at the bottom of the Castle of Conia, a large river, into the -Black Sea. Some hundred boats of the Lázes, which are called Sarpúna and -Mengesila, navigate this river to Georgia and Mingrelia, and exchange their merchandize -for slaves.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages.</i></h3> - -<p>The mountain facing the mosque in the quarter on the opposite bank of the -Jorúgh, is called the parrot’s mountain, it is the burying-place of Abd-ul wahháb<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span> -A’ari, and is a general walk. This high mountain commands the town, but cannon -shot cannot reach it from hence, the distance being too great, and the river Jorúgh -flowing between. The hill which rises in the town, opposite the mosque, is -ascended in half an hour. The Pilgrimage of Osmán Ghází, who is here buried -underneath a cupola of bricks. The Pilgrimage of Jághir Kánlidedeh has the -greatest credit with the inhabitants of this town, as he is a recent Saint; people yet -alive having witnessed his miracles. Near this place, an able architect built -a bridge of fir-tree across the river Jorúgh, in the shape of a swallow’s wing, to -which the fir bridge over the Duina at Fúja Shehrí in Herzgovina can alone -be compared; but this bridge of Baibúrd having only a single arch, is higher -and finer than that of Fúja. In the cemetery to the Kiblah of the town, are -buried many thousand great men, but I have mentioned only those I visited. After -taking a good view of the town, and having collected the number of troops fixed -by the firmán, I received from the Súbashí a present of three hundred piastres, -and continued my journey accompanied by fifty armed men.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Tortúm.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by the old King of Georgia Mamerúl, was conquered by Uzún -Hassan, and by Mohammed II., and then fell again into the hands of the -Georgians. Selím I. first retook it when Governor of Trebisonde, and Sultán -Súleimán lost it again. He despatched his second Vezír Ahmed Páshá to reconquer -it, who took it after a siege of seven days and an assault of seven hours, -cutting all the Infidels to pieces; and providing it with stores and men. He then -advanced further into Georgia, and the two castles of Nejákh and Mírakhor surrendered. -From hence he proceeded to Akchekala’a, which being a stronghold was -not taken till the seventh day. The Begs of the castles of Penkerd, Asherd, and the -little Akchekala’a paid obeisance. The district of Bevána with three hundred villages -did the same, and the inhabitants remain Ottoman subjects even to the present -time. The castles Isper and Pertekrek yielded to the Ottoman power; so did -also the district of Dadánlí with seventy-six villages, and fifteen castles, large and -small; the castles of Tekkhíss and the valley of Bersássa were conquered, and -Tortúm was put down in the register as the seat of a sanjak Beg belonging to -Erzerúm; it furnishes sixty thousand men, and the Páshá’s revenues amount -annually to twelve thousand piastres in a fair way: Its judge is appointed with a -hundred and fifty aspers, and there are nine well cultivated districts, the principal -of which are those of Bervána, Dadánlí and Isper, their annual revenue amounts -to three thousand piastres.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Size and Shape of the Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>It is built in a square form, on a high rock; an iron gate opens to the east; in -the castle is a mosque of Sultán Súleimán’s time, and in the lower town is seven -hundred houses and seven mosques, two baths, two kháns, twelve schools and -seventy shops, but no stone bezestán, imáret or medresseh. The pears, grapes -and peaches are much praised; as it is only two journeys from Erzerúm, the merchants -send chests full of fruit to that place; the inhabitants are righteous, hospitable -men; the river which flows through it goes into the Black Sea; in the town -of Tortúm saltpetre is produced for Government. While I was collecting troops -here, and visiting the town, news arrived to Ghází Sídí Ahmed, the Páshá of the -place, that the Cossacks had assailed the castle of Gonia; he instantly put on his -armour, mounted on horseback, summoned all the Zaims and Timariots who -wished to volunteer in this expedition, assembled about a thousand men, and -started with his troop under the triple shout of Allah. We marched a whole day -and night, reinforcing our number on the road, and halted next morning in a valley. -We continued our course to the north for the whole of the second day, -passed on to the frontier of Trebisonde and entered that of Gonia: here we met -the Mingrelian troops, which came to join the Páshá, and were honourably -received, they consisted of three hundred well armed horsemen with lances, and -about a thousand riflemen with flying hair, between forty and fifty years of age, -with strange figures and ugly faces, whom the Páshá flattered with good words. -This night we passed along the river Jorúgh, and arrived next morning at the -castle of Gonia on the Black Sea, which we saw filled with Infidel Cossacks, who -at the moment they saw us roared out, Jasus! Jasus! (Jesus); seventy Chaikas -were moored behind the castle. The Páshá with a hundred and fifty Aghás, and -all the troops which had joined him on the way, with loud cries of Allah, attacked -the ships lying in the river, cut the cables, and let the boats float out into the Black -Sea, cutting down or making prisoners, those who were left to guard the boats, -and towing the Chaikas into a bay at a gunshot’s distance from the castle; the -Infidels, seeing they could not escape in their boats, acted like swine that are laid -hold of, and began to fire. The Moslim troops on their side prepared every -thing for an assault; and made ladders of the masts and rigging of the captured -ships. The Mingrelian and Georgian troops entered the trenches in broad daylight, -the walls were fired upon, and the assault was made from all sides. The -Páshá led the assault himself with such courage and spirit, that the Infidels -had not time to recollect themselves, but fled to some ships, which were left -on the Jorúgh. Some of these boats being overloaded went to the bottom, -those who by swimming reached the opposite shore were received by the muskets<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span> -of the Moslims and went to Hell: seventeen of the ships on the Jorúgh were -burnt, and two hundred Infidels, who could not re-enter the castle, were taken -prisoners; seventy Moslims fell martyrs in this triple assault. The Páshá now -pressed the arrival of the troops from the district of Sanjak Batúm. Finally there -arrived some thousand Lázes armed with lances, casques, muskets, and sounding -their war fifes, called Zígúla, with white banners waving; they joined the Páshá, -halting on the bank of the river. The Páshá left them not a moment’s rest, but -encouraged them by addressing them in the Circassian language. Thus a crowd -was collected who threw up earth and faggots in mounds before the castle, on which -the storming ladders were fixed. The neighbouring mountains re-echoed the -shouts of Allah! the Moslims heaped bundles on bundles of twigs, and began to -climb the ladders like spiders and goats of Isper; the bundles heaped up before -the gate were set on fire. Ghází Ahmed Páshá himself mounted on the tower -at the eastern corner, and by his example encouraged the general assault. From -early dawn till the afternoon, neither the Páshá nor his troops had tasted a bit of -bread; in the afternoon the castle was conquered, and I, poor Evliya, had the -advantage of first proclaiming on its walls the sound of Ottoman prayer. The -castle being now filed with victors, seven hundred Infidels were taken prisoners, -and eight hundred heads cut off, and planted on the walls; the seventy-seven -boats were towed back to the castle, and moored ready with all provisions and munition. -The rejoicings lasted three days and three nights, during which the castle -was illuminated. God be praised that I witnessed such a conquest. At the moment -when prayer was first proclaimed on the wall, there appeared, on the eastern -side of the Jorúgh, some thousand standards and banners, who answered the report -of the salutes fired with the shouts of Allah; these were the troops of the Páshá -of Karss, who had arrived before Gonia after a flying march from Erzerúm, and -now encamped on the bank of the Jorúgh.</p> - -<p>Gonia now became the meeting-place of the whole army summoned by the -governor of Erzerúm; forty or fifty boats of Láz Mengesile, who descended the -river of Jorúgh, took to flight as soon as they were aware, that the castle was -again in the hands of the Moslims, and that an Ottoman army was encamped along -the shore of the river. They were pursued by Sídí Ghází Páshá, who captured -forty-seven boats, made three hundred Mingrelians prisoners, and drowned about -six hundred in the river. This expedition was thus crowned with three victories: -1. The conquest of the boats; 2. that of the castle; 3. the conquest of the -Mingrelian boats, which had arrived to the assistance of the Cossacks with provisions. -Sídí Ahmed Páshá distributed those provisions amongst the Moslim -victors, so that plenty now prevailed in the Ottoman camp. The night was again<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span> -passed with illuminations and feasting; the shouts of Allah, and the sounds of the -Ottoman drum interrupting the silence of the night. The next day clouds of dust -rising on the side of the Jorúgh announced the arrival of a new army, whose glittering -armour dazzled the eyes; it was that of Koja Sefer Páshá, the Vezír of Chaldir, -who summoned by the command of our Lord the Páshá of Erzerúm, arrived -with the Georgian army in great speed to the assistance of the Castle of Gonia; -Sídí Ahmed Páshá went with the other Páshás to meet them, and it was a -grand sight to see these troops on fine horses, well armed with spears, swords, -shields, and muskets, with flying hair and strange figures. When Sefer Páshá -himself came with the train of his guards (Matarají, Tufenkjí, and Shátir), he -received Sídí Páshá’s salute, and then rode on his right, Báki Páshá keeping on the -left. When they approached the castle a general salute of guns and musketry gave -them welcome. Provisions now arrived in abundance at the Imperial camp from -Georgia, Mingrelia, Láz, and Batúm. Next day fresh troops appeared to the -south of Gonia, it was the Páshá of Trebisonde, who came with three thousand -good troops; in seventy boats (sandal) and a hundred ships of the Lázes, called -Mengesila, he carried plenty of provisions, and ten guns. Sídí Ahmed Páshá -being acquainted with his arrival neither went himself to meet him, nor sent any -troops to perform that ceremony. He halted with his troops on one side of the -castle. Having waited on Sídí Ahmed Páshá he received him without the least -honour, but with the following speech.</p> - -<p>“I am the Páshá of Tortúm, which is from four to five journeys distant from -Gonia, and it was not my duty to hasten to its assistance; but I did it for the sake -of the faith and the Empire. You, Páshá, who are the Governor of Trebisonde, -and Begler-beg of two tails, and at only two journies from Gonia, why did you -not arrive till within these seven days to its assistance. Quick, executioner!”</p> - -<p>The Páshás of Pássín, Akhiska and Kaighí interfered, saying, that it was against -constitutional law, that he being only a Páshá of one tail, should kill one of two. -He replied, “By God! if it is righteous, according to religious duties, I’ll cut off -his head, even if he be a Páshá of seven tails; in consideration, however, of your -intercession, I won’t kill him, but relate the business to the Emperor; call quickly -for the Diván Efendí (Secretary).” While the dispatch was being drawn up, -orders were given to put seventy of the principal officers of the troops of Trebisonde -into prison, and they were accordingly shut up in the castle, for not having -urged the Páshá to hasten to the deliverance of Gonia. The Diván Efendí made -out the account of the conquest of Gonia, and the accusation against the Páshá -of Trebisonde; it was signed and sealed by the three Begler-Begs, by the Judges -of Gonia and Trebisonde, and was ready to be sent off, when the inhabitants of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> -Trebisonde threw themselves at the feet of Sídí Ahmed Páshá, supplicating not to -be accused to the Porte. Sídí Páshá persisting in his resolution, showed all the -obstinacy of a Circassian. The principal men of Trebisonde however, solicited the -Páshás to intercede with the Commander-in-chief Sídí Ahmed; and it was ultimately -arranged, after three days negotiation, that the Páshá and principal men of Trebisonde -should give forty-three purses of money, three sable pelisses, twelve beautiful -boys, twelve girls with eyes like Narcissuses, and of sweet language, a silken tent -richly embroidered with gold, a sword set with jewels, a mare, seven quivers, vases -of silver, the work of goldsmiths of Trebisonde, bridles, hatchets, candlesticks of -silver, three strings of camels, three of mules, and a hundred and twenty horses. -By these gifts they obtained the favour of not being named in the report to the -Emperor; to whom only were mentioned the Begler Begs, Alaï and Sanjak Begs, -who had hastened to the deliverance of Gonia, and this report was sent by Gurji -Beg Zadeh to Constantinople. Another Kapijí Báshí was despatched with the -same news to the governor of Erzerúm, but at the moment he was setting out, -clouds of dust announced the arrival of fresh troops on the banks of the Jorúgh; -these were the troops of Erzerúm sent to the succour of Gonia, under the command -of Hassan Atlí Aghá. The Zaims, Timariots and Jebellis of Erzerúm with -half the garrison, and the guards of the Páshá, forty banners of Segbán and -Sáríja (irregular levies of the Páshá), led by their colonels (Bolúk Báshí). They -were followed by a squadron of Delí, by another of Gonullí (Volunteers), six -squadrons of Tatar horsemen, a squadron of six hundred Moteferrika, a squadron -of two hundred Cháshnegírs (carvers), a squadron of two hundred Serraj (saddle-men), -squadron of two hundred Kílarjí (men of the cellar), and lastly a squadron -of two hundred Ichaga (indoor servants), led by the Key-keeper (Miftáh -ghúlám agassí). They were also followed by forty chamberlains, each one -surrounded by from forty to fifty men clad in armour, on horses of the finest -breed, caparisoned with silver, and ornamented with sea-horses bristles; they rode -two and two, and immediately after them came Hassan Atlí Aghá himself, with -trumpets sounding, and took up his encampment on the border of the fortress. All -these chamberlains were men, who had seen service in the quality of Kiayas -(substitutes), Kaima Káms (Lieutenants), Motessellims (Vice-governors) and -Administrators of provinces. Sídí Ahmed Páshá gave them a great repast, and -next day assembled all the architects of the country to repair the castle of Gonia. -The Turkish music played from seven sides, seventy tables were spread, and day -and night was spent in festivities. The side of the castle that was damaged by -the fire, and the mosque of Bayazíd II. was first put in repair. Seven hundred -men forming a new garrison, with a new Beg, as Commander, were put into it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span> -with sufficient stores, and all the arms taken from the enemy. Thus the castle of -Gonia shone forth in greater splendor than before. God be praised that I, poor -Evliyá, was so fortunate as to proclaim the first prayer on its newly conquered -walls!</p> - -<p>The troops of the sanjaks of Trebisonde and Bátúm were left for the safety of -the castle of Gonia, and the whole army of sixty thousand men, then began to -march along the banks of the river Jorúgh towards Erzerúm. The army having -halted on the bank of the river Jorúgh on a large meadow surrounded with trees, a -council was held, and Sídí Ahmed Páshá, said:—“The Mingrelians, though -belonging to the Province of Trebisonde have rebelled, and I have related to the -Emperor, that we took their boats; which, together with those of the Russians, -may now wait in the port of Gonia for the Emperor’s decision. I have also -acquainted His Majesty that so many thousand Cossacks and Mingrelians have -fallen to the share of the Ottoman victors, as prisoners, and I now intend to -take vengeance on the Mingrelian infidels with this army, ready for expedition, that -it may gain some booty as compensation for its journey.” The governor of -Georgia, Sefer Páshá, who was very angry at the Mingrelians, proposed that all -the horsemen should join the foot and undertake an inroad for booty, the Moslims -of Akhiska and Georgia leading the way, who were then also to share the spoil. -The Council broke up with this resolution, for the happy execution of which -I said a Fátihah. The cryers gave notice, that all Moslims who wished for -breeches and horses, for boys and girls, for money and booty, should be ready in -arms. This notice produced an astonishing effect, the Moslim victors roared like -lions, armed and washed themselves, and waited for the orders of the Commander.</p> - - -<h3><i>Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia.</i></h3> - -<p>Ketgáj Páshá led the van of three hundred men, towards the Kiblah, followed -by three thousand men of Georgia and Akhaska, and by Sídí Ahmed Páshá, at the -head of nine thousand men. Bákí Páshá commanded the rear of three hundred -men; the troops of Erzerúm and Kara Hissár formed the two wings; the sanjak -Begs of Khinissin, Tekmán and Melázjerd were deputed to provide the forage. -We marched this day ten hours to Zárchairí, a pleasant position between Mingrelia, -and the sanjak of Batúm. The next day we passed the Jorúgh, and Sefer -Páshá began to pillage the district of Darína; the twenty-two companies of Sárija -(irregular levies) of the Páshá, our gracious Lord, two thousand two hundred brave -men, pursued the fugitives in the mountains, made seven hundred prisoners, and -lost seven men as martyrs. The troops proceeded till they arrived under the walls -of castle of Merava, which was taken by assault, with the loss of seventy Moslims,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> -who drank the sherbet of martyrdom; seven hundred men, five hundred women, -two hundred girls, and six hundred boys, were made prisoners. The pillage was -pushed as far as the districts of Georgia, and we arrived at the end of nine hours, -at the field of Boghdú; here a Soffa (or meadow seat) is shown, where Sultán -Selím I. was seated when Governor of Trebisonde. Two spies sent by the Prince -of Mingrelia, were taken prisoners, and they showed the way (the necessary precautions -being taken) to the district of Tamaras Khán, whose son with a thousand -horsemen and two thousand infantry, met the Commander-in-chief, and led the -Ottoman party of pillage further against the Mingrelians, with whom he was -angry.</p> - -<p>The pillaged districts were those of Pernák, Selsel, Perkán, Penák, Gúmle, and -Samárgha; we halted before the castle of Akhár, a small round castle on a hill, -built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; the inhabitants are not very brave, but -great thieves; two hundred and fifty castles and villages were pillaged, and nine -thousand prisoners taken. Ketgáj Páshá, the leader of the van, alone took two -thousand beautiful girls, whom the commander-in-chief bought for a thousand -piastres, and sent them to Sultán Ibrahím with twenty other fine maidens; they -were so beautiful that the text of the Korán, “We have created man in the -finest shape,” seems to have been revealed only for their praise. The booty was -so rich, that a slave was sold for ten piastres, an ox for half a piastre, and a sheep -for five aspers. The Beg of Báshajik sent to the Commander-in-chief a present of -five boys and five girls, and also gave me a boy and girl. We arrived after eleven -hours predatory march at a plain, in the middle of which was a building raised -by the Beg of Mingrelia, it was ruined by Uzún Hassan, and is now contiguous -to Batúm on the frontier of Mingrelia. We passed the Castles, Nejákh, Merkhor, -Akchekala’a, Chepek, Penkerd, Asherd, Kúchúk Akchekala’a, the Begs of -which all came with presents, paying obeisance to Sídí Ahmed Páshá. These -castles being situated on high mountains, and in woody tracts, were passed by -indulgently, but the villages situated in the plain were all ravaged; the district of -Yúvána, overrun for the space of seven days, furnished such beautiful boys and -girls, that each of them was worth a treasure of Egypt. We halted underneath -the castle of Tekrek, the inhabitants of which came with presents, to ward off -the danger of the pillage, they were threatened with; six districts more, the names -of which I am ignorant of, shared the common fate of havock. The Ottoman -victors were now so loaded with spoils and booty, that it became impossible to -carry it all away. Many of them returned bringing their booty to the Castle of -Gonia, and from thence to Trebisonde.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Of the Language of the Mingrelians.</i></h3> - -<p>Georgia is inhabited by seventeen Christian tribes, the principal of which are, -the Achikbásh, Dadián, Shúshád, and Gúriel. The Mingrelians are the last and -most despised specimen of their language: one, <i>artí</i>; two, <i>sherí</i>; three, <i>shumí</i>; -four, <i>ámekh</i>; five, <i>khotí</i>; six, <i>pishkúí</i>; seven, <i>ishkúí</i>; eight, <i>rúo</i>; nine, <i>júghúr</i>; -ten, <i>wetí</i>. Bread, <i>gúpál</i>; fire, <i>dájkhir</i>; shield, <i>púr</i>; sheep, <i>ashkhorí</i>; girdle, -<i>derkát</i>; head, <i>dúdí</i>; wood, <i>deshke</i>; dog, <i>joghúr</i>; ox, <i>khijú</i>; calf, <i>kissin</i>; salt, -<i>ajém</i>; swine, <i>gháj</i>; ass, <i>kirút</i>; bear, <i>nút</i>; cheese, <i>kúl</i>; curds, <i>merjván</i>; come, -<i>wai</i>; man, <i>chaí</i>; sit down, <i>dakhúr</i>; girl, <i>tíne</i>; go, <i>halawlí</i>; come mother, <i>waí -diás</i>, &c.</p> - -<p>Mingrelia is inhabited by a great number of different tribes, who speak different -dialects; there are seventy different products; its sheep, goats, swine and fine -breed of horses (Kohailán) are renowned; there are neither mules nor asses in the -whole of Georgia and Mingrelia, but a great number of foxes, wild cats, and martens; -corn and wheat are scarce as hardly any thing but millet and Lazúd (?) is -sown; on the high mountains are many nut and fir-trees, box-trees and cedars. -The inhabitants, like those of Mingrelia, Abaza, and Circassia, are settled in the -mountains; they have castles with gardens and churches. In short, during seventy-seven -days, we made the tour of Mingrelia and Georgia, after which time the -Ottoman troops took the direction of Erzerúm; on the third day we came to -the district of Darátlí, which is contiguous to the sanjak of Tortúm. Perfect security -being restored, the troops were licensed to break up by the Vezír of Akhiska, -Sídí Ahmed Páshá, and we then went with the Georgian Begs towards Chaldir. -After fourteen hours we reached the valley of Yúvána, where the inhabitants of -Isper and Tortúm met us with presents. At the public entrance into Tortúm, the -Cossack and Mingrelian prisoners were dragged along in chains; the inhabitants of -Tortúm all assembled to form the Istikbál (solemn meeting. See Morier’s travels). -Sídí Páshá himself wore the plumes of honour (Jíghatelí) which the Governor of -Erzerúm had sent to him, put on his well caparisoned state horse, trappings of six -pieces of steel of Nakshiván, wrapped round his head a red sash in the Mohammedan -fashion, clad himself in blue steel with armour on his thighs, and, looking -of stupendous size, like a seven-headed dragon he passed through the crowd who -received his salute crying, “Aleik awnallah eí ghází seifollah!” “God’s assistance -be upon thee, O victor, sword of God!” The guns of the castle of Tortúm saluted -and the mountains re-echoed the thundering noise. Sídí Páshá repaired to his -palace, and Ketgáj Páshá, Bákí Páshá and eight Sanjak Begs encamped before -the town for three days, and on the fourth the whole of the troops moved towards -Erzerúm, the territory of which we reached on Kássim (St. Demetrius’ day) and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> -passed the straight of Ghází-boghází. The governor expecting the troops, was in -his tent at Gumishlí Kunbed (silver vault) where Sídí Ahmed, Ketgáj, and Bákí -Páshá were received with the greatest distinction, treated with a splendid repast -and invested with pelisses of honour. Here the Páshá and Sanjak Begs laid with -great pomp their presents before the governor. The season being now too far advanced -to think of the expedition against Eriván, we remained in this place spending -our days in pleasure. The Governor, my gracious Lord, being a little angry -with me on account of my having accompanied the expedition without leave, Sídi -Ahmed Páshá interceded in my favour, saying, “If it is a fault that I took Evliyá -with me to the siege of Gonia, it is he that proclaimed first the Mohammedan -prayer on its walls; he is a traveller of the world, a good companion of mankind, -a Háfiz (who knows the Korán by heart) and a warrior in the ways of God.” -Having asked pardon for me in this gentle manner, the Páshá said, “His duty -was to collect troops and not to assist at the siege of Gonia, I will not pardon -this fault unless he finishes in eight hours the recital of the Korán (Khatem -sheríf).” I began with the Bismillah and finished in somewhat more than nine -hours, after which I kissed the earth before my gracious Lord, and received from -him a sable pelisse, a thorough bred horse, two fine boys, and a sinecure; so that -I now spent all my time both day and night in pleasure.</p> - - -<h3><i>Moral Reflections.</i></h3> - -<p>The end of all joy is disappointment, and the end of every day is bitter. There -is no doubt about this. So at the end of this 1075th year we received the news -by a swift messenger despatched from Constantinople, that Sultán Ibrahím had -killed without reason the Grand Vezír Sáleh Páshá, and had appointed in his -place Tezkereji Ahmed Páshá. Though this news greatly afflicted the Páshá yet -he kept it secret not to spoil the pleasure of the company, and transacted the rest -of his business at Erzerúm. Sáleh Páshá, who had been one of the favorite slaves -of the father of our Governor, had for this reason given him the government of -Erzerúm; but the present Grand Vezír, ever since he had been the Tezkerejí of -Kara Mustafa Páshá, had become his mortal enemy. He kept however this -secret to himself and continued to feast in his tent with his guests, Sídí, Ketgáj, -Bákí and Dilaver Páshá.</p> - -<p>(<i>Here follows the separate history of these four Páshás and of the Governor, -which we omit. In the chapter of Sídí Páshá it is mentioned that playing at -jeríd one day with Evliyá he broke four of his teeth.</i>)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span></p> - - -<h3 class="hang"><i>Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the -month of Zílka’deh 1057 (1647).</i></h3> - -<p>We left the town by the gate of Erzenján and halted first in the plain called -the circles of Bazár-bashí, where farewell presents were lavished on us by all the -Aghás and principal men of Erzerúm, who both by day and night formed their court -around the tent of the Páshá. The Kiaya of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of -Baghdád, accompanied by an hundred and fifty Aghás, an hundred and seventy -Kapijí-bashí, seven hundred men, Sárija, and three hundred Segbán, arrived here -with the news of Sáleh Páshá having been killed. The next day a messenger -came from Constantinople with a Khattí-sheríf conferring on governor Mohammed -Páshá, our gracious Lord, the Governorship of Karss with the obligation to take -the field against the Persians by defending the frontier. The Governor, our -gracious Lord, said, “Be it now as it may”, and without paying attention to the -Khattí-sheríf continued his way to Constantinople. The first station, three hours -to the west of Erzerúm, was the village of Kán, an Armenian village in the -midst of the plain. Five hours further westward, the village Ilija, possessing a hot -spring, covered with high cupolas by the munificence of the Princes of the dynasty -of Akche-koyúnlí. The basin is not paved with stones, but only strewed with -white sand. The water is of a moderate heat and smells like that of other hot -springs, but is more conducive to health than the warm spring of Zia-ud-dín. -From hence we advanced five hours to the westward to the village of Khinnis, an -Armenian village of two hundred houses, and in five hours more came to the -village of Mamakhatún, a mussulman village of two hundred houses. This Lady -was a pious Lady of the Akche-Koyúnlí family, and lies buried here with her -children beneath a high cupola; there is a mosque, an imáret, and a college. -Advancing for five hours over valleys and hills we reached the village of Ketúr on -the territory of Erzerúm, where the Euphrates is crossed by a bridge of fir-tree. -The Páshá halted here for three days, and sent me on a mission to Mirakhor -Aghá, the inspector of the salt of Kumákh.</p> - - -<h3><i>Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh.</i></h3> - -<p>The Castle of Kumákh was built by the Greek Emperors and then came into -the hands of the Akche-koyúnlí. When in the possession of Uzún Hassan, the -king of Azerbeiján, it was besieged by Timúr for seven months, during which the -besieged disdained to fire a single shot or throw a single stone on the besiegers. -After the defeat of Uzún Hassan it was also besieged by Mohammed III., during -three months without success. Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, availed -himself of a good opportunity and conquered it. He then crossed from Trebi<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span>sonde -with three hundred ships to Caffa and Crimea on the opposite shore with -the intention of wresting the sovereign power from the hands of his father, Báyazíd -II. assisted by the Tatars of the Crimea. The Father and Son met near -Hájí Oghlí-bazárí in the valley of Oghrásh, and Selím being defeated left his son -Súleimán, Governor of Trebisonde, and went himself into Persia, where he visited -the tombs of great Saints like Imán Mússa and played at chess with the Sháh, who -at this time had taken possession of Kumákh. Selím then defeated his father at -Chorlí, who exiled to Demitoca died at Hássa. Selím I received at Yení-bághje -the obeisance of the inhabitants of Constantinople, and instantly fixed the tails at -Scutari as the signal of a Persian expedition. The castle of Kumákh was conquered -by Bíklí Mohammed Páshá. It is one of the strongest fortresses of the -Ottoman Empire, like those of Diárbekr, Márdín, Ván, Sín Kara-hissár, Afiún -Kara-hissár, Megú, Eremnák, Merkáb, Hassan, Karak in Asia, and in Rúm -Mengesha, Napoli, Misistra, Rodos, &c. It is loftier than all these and is invisible -till noon, from clouds which pour frequent showers upon it. At the time of the -description of the country by Sultán Súleimán it was set down as the seat of a -Voivode, subordinate to Erzerúm. Three districts belong to it; that of the town, -of Gerjánis, and of Kúrúchaí, from which the Judge gathers an annual revenue -of three thousand piastres. The Castle has a Dizdár and a garrison of five hundred -men, an officer of the Janissaries (Serdár), of the Sipahís (Kiayayerí), and a -Nakíb; another officer rules the village of Gomúr on the other side of the -Euphrates, which consists of seven hundred houses: this officer is the Inspector -of the salt, which is sweeter than the salt of Hají-begtásh.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Turkistán and Turcomania get all their salt from Kumákh. -A linen which is no where else to be found in such perfection, is made here for -tents. There is a proverb in praise of the linen of Kúmákh, the sheep of Erzenján -and the girls of Baiburd. The river Komúr, which passes through the gardens -of the village that bears its name, comes from the mountains of Jerjánish and joins -the Euphrates near the convent of Melek Ghází Effendí. Near, and opposite to -it, is Mobarek, an armenian village, the khass of the garrison of Erzerúm. The -water, which distils in the caverns of the mountain freezes in the summer time -and in the winter is as warm as a hot spring. The inhabitants keep in these -caverns their cheese called Katik-peinirí. In coming hither from Erzerúm you -cross the Euphrates over a large single arched bridge, ascend a height of five hundred -paces and pass along the rocky tract called Kebán. There towering rocks -are on the right, as you ascend the castle and on the left are deep precipices. -The small river Ain Manzar here flows into the Euphrates. This river issues from -Mount Manzar, unites with the Sáterdereh, a torrent which supplies water to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span> -gardens of the town and joins the Euphrates below the rocks of Kepán. The -water is clear and fresh. Near it is a rock called Alí’s rock, where people -believe they are cured of pains in the limbs, because Alí is said to have rested -here his weary limbs; it is a stone like a magnet, and the inhabitants call -it Kullikia; above is the suburb of the Infidels. The houses, with and without -gardens, are all covered with earth. The subjects are all Armenians; there are -three hundred shops, but no bezestán of stone, two kháns, two baths, and a great -mosque: the bath near it is called Chorbájí-hamám. The suburb has no fortification -(Robát) round it, but above it is a great castle.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Kumákh.</i></h3> - -<p>This castle is a pentagon of stone situate on a chalk cliff; it may be compared -to the castle of Sín-hissár on the frontiers of Erzerúm. On the opposite side -of the Euphrates is a height by which it is commanded, but the distance is too -great to make it of consequence. It has three strong gates one behind the other; -on the right and left of the first gate are two brass guns, well worthy to be seen, -of such dimensions that a cobbler might very well work in them without complaining -of the narrowness of the place. They are of the time of Sultán Súleimán; -their length twenty-seven spans and their balls of three quintals weight. The -greatest wonder is how they succeeded in bringing such large guns to so high -a place. At the innermost or third gate is suspended the mace of a Pehliván, -and a bow of Alí. The number of the houses great and small is six hundred, but -they want gardens and water. Five magazines have been filled with rice and -millet ever since the time of Sultán Selím I., which seem as though they had -been laid up but to-day. There are eleven mosques; the Beg’s is a large mosque -with a minareh of stone; though this castle is built on a rock, yet the houses are -paved with flat stones. On the tower called the Martyrs towards the north are -thirty-two large and small guns; from the gate of the Martyrs, a water-way cut -in the rock leads down to the foot of it, by which they fetch the water at the time -of a siege. There are three cisterns here near one another, the first is full of -good water, the second smells of saltpetre and the third is very salt. Though -this town is a town of Turkistán, situated on the territory of Erzerúm, yet its -inhabitants are goodnatured, sound people. The linen for tents, the white salt -and the cheese called Katik-peinirí, which is better and sweeter than that of -Mytilene and of Koreisha at Damascus, are famous all over Asia. The quails, -which in summer come in great numbers, the inhabitants preserve in vinegar for -the winter.</p> - -<p>Near the magazines are the pilgrimage of Kend Effendí and at the head of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> -bridge, that of Melek Ghazí. As this town is not situated on the great road, -caraváns do not pass here. The Euphrates on the east comes from the mountains -of Rúmlí Sultán and flows round the rock towards the west to the Izúlí -Kurds. From the Alps of a thousand lakes (Bíngol) comes the Murad river, -which joins the Euphrates. Whoever travels from Malatia, Kharpút, Ekín, -Pálava, or Diárbekr can only cross it in a boat. I viewed this town for three -whole days, collected what was due by the Voivode to the Páshá, and received -from him an hundred piastres as a present of arrival (Kúdúmie). I returned in -five days to Kumákh and set out next day northward along the Euphrates to -Shúrím, which has two hundred houses; ten hours further, to the station of -Jebjeh-khání; then leaving the Euphrates to the right, to the village of Jemen, -an Armenian village on the plain of Erzenján; from whence we arrived at -Erzenján.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Erzenján.</i></h3> - -<p>This castle belongs to Erzerúm and not to Azerbeiján. There are four towns, -which bear the name of Erzen, viz: Erzen in Mesopotamia (Jezíre), Erzen -Akhlát, Erzenrúm commonly called Erzerúm, and Erzenján. It is a delightful -spot, the possession of which occasioned many wars, till in the year 855 Sultán -Bayazíd I. received it from its prince, Záhir-ud-dín, who, the very same day he -heard of the conquest of Amasia, repaired to this town and delivered to Sultán -Bayazíd the keys. Bayazíd out of generosity returned the keys to Záhir-ud-dín -on condition that Khutbeh be performed, and the coinage struck in his name. -Záhir-ud-dín died three years afterwards and the town was taken possession of by -Kara Yússúf, the Prince of the dynasty of Kara-koyúnlí, who held it for seven -years, until Timúr overrun Asia. Kara Yússúf fled from his residence and sought -shelter at the throne of Sultán Bayazíd, together with Ahmed Jelair, the Commander -of Baghdád. Timúr required Bayazíd to deliver them up to him, but -Bayazíd refused, and this refusal was the chief cause of the war between them. -Kara Yússúf and Jelair afterwards fled into Egypt to Sultán Berkúk. Erzenján -fell into the hands of Uzún Hassan, who being already Prince of Azerbeiján -became also Prince of Erzenján. His mint is still extant near the convent of the -Mevlevís. After the defeat and death of Bayazíd, the Empire was disputed -by the Princes Issa, Mússa, Súleimán and Mohammed, the latter obtained it and -became absolute Lord, but was unable to conquer Erzenján, which remained in -the hands of Uzún Hassan until the time of Mohammed II., who took possession -of it after the defeat of Uzún Hassan on the plain of Terján. He repaired the -castle of Sultán Záhir-ud-dín and garrisoned it with Ottoman troops. In the reign -of Bayazíd II., when Sultán Selím was governor of Trebisonde, Sháh Ismail<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> -took possession of Azerbeijan, which returned to its first Lord after the battle -of Chaldirán in the year 921 (1515); Erzenján was then made a part of the -revenues of the Páshá of Erzerúm. Its magistrates are a Súbashi and a judge -with one hundred and fifty aspers, who may collect annually six purses. The -other officers are the Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiayayerí, a Mohtessib (judge of the -market) and a Shehr-naibí (inspector of the town.)</p> - -<p>The castle is situated in a delightful plain in the midst of woods, its gates -and walls are very low and its fortifications very old. At the time of the rebellion -of Abaza at Erzerúm, the ditch was cleared and the walls repaired, but Abaza -Páshá became nevertheless master of it. It has an iron gate, and the communication -from the fortress to the suburb is by a bridge; in the castle are three hundred -houses with and without gardens, a mosque, a khán and a bath.</p> - -<p>The great suburb consists of eighteen hundred houses with and without gardens, -all covered with neat terraces and but few of them having upper stories; -seventy-six mosques great and small without cupolas, and seven convents, the -most renowned of which is that of the Mevlevís; Chelebí Effendí, the son of the -great Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín, is buried here. This convent built in the olden style -is situated in the midst of a delightful Persian garden, the nightingales of which -with their delicious songs feed the brains of the poor Dervishes, and intoxicate -them with divine love, while they themselves are singing mystic hymns in the -tunes of love. Round the music-room (Ima’á-kháneh) are the cells of the -Dervishes, and the convent is endowed with a good kitchen and cellar (Kílár). -They preserve here Jelál-ud-dín’s habit, a Korán, and a Mesneví written by his own -hand. The second convent is that of Chádirjí Sheikh Abd-ul-kádir Gíláni. -There are various excellent baths, eleven great kháns, forty abecedarian schools, -no houses for reading the Korán (Dár-ul-kirayet), tradition (Dár-ul-hadíth) nor -for dining the poor (Dár-ul-ita’ám), but there are a great number of students -(Talebe); and lectures are read in all the mosques. Amongst the inhabitants -are found many clever, goodnatured, learned, pious, well-bred men, who wear -short dresses, but no silk with the exception of the soldiers, who dress in cloth -of various colours and also in silk. The youth of both sexes are pretty, and the -ladies are chaste as Adúyeh Rábia, and wear when walking boots and a pointed -cap (Arakjín); they are prohibited from walking in the market-place, which contains -six hundred houses. Precious articles are kept in a small bezestán. From -hence to Erzerúm situated beyond the mountains is two journies. The climate -of Erzerúm is rough and very cold, while that of Erzenján on the contrary is -mild, and favourable to roses and flowers. Snow falls sometimes, but remains no -longer than three days. Its gardens are productive of the finest flowers and the -sweetest fruits.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Eatables and Beverages.</i></h3> - -<p>Seventy sorts of pears are produced here; and though the season of winter -was far advanced at the time of our stay here, yet we now saw seventeen various -sorts of pears offered as presents to the Páshá, with raisins and apricots; its -mulberries both white and black are much renowned and when dried are exported -to all countries. The sherbet of mulberries seasoned with different spices gives -new life to the soul. Erzerúm is provided with fruits from this town, from -whence they are transported in two days.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages.</i></h3> - -<p>The convent of Khizr, a convent of Mevlevís; the convent of Sheikk Khaled -Efendí; and the tomb of Himmet Páshá, one of the vezirs of Sultán Selím, who -was killed on his way to Chaldirán.</p> - -<p>I remained here for three days to collect the sums due from the Inspectors of -salt and the Súbáshí of Kúrúchaí. Whilst the inhabitants were giving feasts to -the Páshá news arrived of the rebellion of Várvár Páshá, with a letter to the -following intent: “My son! Hezárpara Ahmed Páshá the Vezír of Ibrahím -has killed eleven Vezirs and deprived me of the Governorship of Sívás, because -I did not send to the Sultán the wife of Ipshír Páshá, the daughter of the Prince -of Georgia, the Lady Perikhán. Three Kapijí-bashí came with orders to take my -head, but I happily escaped from them. I have now received letters from all the -great and principal men at Constantinople, and from the officers of the seven -military corps, summoning me to come with my troops to Scutarí, and to demand -there the heads of the Vezir, of Jenjí Khoja, Begtásh Aghá, Chelebí Kiaya, -Mossleh-ud-dín Aghá and Kara Chaúsh. I am now united with three Vezirs, -seven Begler-begs and eleven Sanjak-begs ready to march against Constantinople. -If thou wishest to save thy head from Ahmed Páshá (the grand Vezir), I invite -thee to join us at Tokát, from whence we shall march our united forces to -Constantinople to try our fortune.” This letter having been received at -Erzenján a council was held, and the levies (levend) having determined to -follow the auspices of the Páshá, the resolution was taken to join the party of the -rebels, and a Fátihah was said to that intention. Alaja Atlí Hassan Aghá was sent -on with a foraging party to be quarter-master general, and letters were sent to -Várvár Páshá with the declaration upon oath to join him. I, poor Evliyá, was -quite perplexed and out of my wits, I had so many things and goods, which I -knew not how to dispose of. We were in the midst of winter, and the tradition -of the prophet, “a journey is a portion of hell, be it but a farsang’s length,” -received its full application. I did not know where to leave my things in safety;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span> -and only with my horse and sword accompany the Páshá, my gracious Lord, -as a rebel.</p> - -<p>We first moved from Erzenján to the north and halted after seven hours at -Báshkhán; five hours further, to the village Erzensí, an Armenian village, six -hours further to the village of Sheikh Sinán, near which at Bárúgúnde is the -tomb of Behlúl of Samarkand, a convent of bareheaded and barefooted Begtáshís; -and three hours further we crossed the bridge of the Shepherds near -Hassan Kala’assí. Shah Kúrúdúmán of the Chobán family is buried in the same -place with Behlúl of Samarkand. It is said, that the tomb being opened, King -Chobán Kúrúdúmán with all his family was burnt by a fire that issued out by -talismanic virtue. He was a Prince of great enterprise, built the bridge of Tiflís -and near Melázjerd the bridge with golden rings over the Araxes. Adjoining the -bridge is a magnificent caravánseraï, the windows of which look on the river, so -that travellers lodging there have the pleasure of fishing out of their windows. -I have sometimes passed this bridge on my way to and from Eriván. This -time I visited the builder’s tomb and said the Súra yass, for his soul. We left -Bárúgúnde and came after a march of eight hours to the north to Ezendeler, a -cultivated village in the district of Terján, and after four hours more to the north -to the station of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, where a feast for ten days was ordained. -Here I took leave of the Páshá and proceeded with the men of Ahmed Aghá to -Shín Kara Hissár. I first travelled towards the east through woods and deserts -along the valley of Kara hissár, and villages belonging to it, and reached the town -itself after a nine hours march.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár.</i></h3> - -<p>There are in the Ottoman Empire various castles, which bear the name of -Kara-hissár, the most renowned of which is that before us. The others are -Kara-hissár called Afiún (Apamea), Develí Kora-hissár, Adalia Kara-hissárí, and -Ván Kara-hissárí. The two first are superior to the others. Shábín Kara-hissár -is so called because a mine of alum (Sháb) was found in its mountains; -the stones of the castle being black, it is also called Shabín from Shab (night, dark -coloured). It was built by the Armenian kings, fell into the power of the Greek -Princes of Trebisonde, and then into that of Záhir-ud-dín, the Prince of Erzenján, -who conquered it on a dark night, which is another reason given for its being called -Shabín. It passed into the power of Uzún Hassan, the Prince of Azerbeiján and -was taken from him by Mohammed II. In the time of Sultán Selím I. it was -described as a sanjak belonging to the government of Erzerúm. Its khass is thirteen -thousand aspers; and there are thirty-six ziámets and nine hundred and forty -timárs, which furnish, together with the men belonging to the Beg, two thousand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span> -men. The revenue of the Páshá amounts annually to forty purses. It has sometimes -been given as a supplementary allowance (Arpalik) to Páshás of three -tails. It was so given to Ghází Sefer Páshá, the vezir of Akhiska, in addition to -Akhiska. His administrator (Motessellem) was Dervish Aghá, a Georgian and -powerful commander. He once sent me on service to the valleys of Mendvál -and Túsdereh by which I gained a horse, a sword, two red mules, and a Georgian -boy; presented to me by himself. The judge is appointed with an hundred and -fifty aspers and may annually make four thousand piastres from the different -districts. There is a Muftí, a Nakíb, a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, Subashí, Mohtessib, -a Dizdár and an hundred and fifty men invested with timárs.</p> - -<p>The castle of Shabín Kara-hissár is of a heptagon form and stands on a high -mountain, appearing like a man of war dismantled and dismasted. It is the work -of an architect who was a second Ferhád. It is one of the twelve fortresses in -the Ottoman Empire, which, not being commanded by the neighbouring heights, -seem to have been built by the hand of Omnipotence. The height of the walls -on all the seven sides is seventy cubits, with seventy bulwarks and seven hundred -battlements. The whole circumference is three thousand six hundred paces; -there is no ditch, it being surrounded by precipices. It has three strong gates -where the garrison keep watch day and night, because the inhabitants of the -villages along the shores of the Black sea send all their best goods into the -castle to protect them from the inroads of the Cossacks; there are seventy houses -with terraces, but they suffer from want of water, which is obliged to be brought -upon asses from the river below; in case of siege they use the water kept in -cisterns. The magazines are full of millet and rice, and have been for more than a -century. As it is not a frontier fortress the artillery is neither heavy nor numerous. -A small mosque bearing the name of Sultán Mohammed II., a khán, bath -and market are in the lower town or suburb. This suburb, with gardens around -it, consists of sixteen hundred terraced houses, the windows of which look -towards the north; the courtyards are spacious. There are forty-two mosques, -none of which are covered with lead, like those of the Sultáns at Constantinople; -the one within the market place near the court of justice is much frequented: -three convents, two baths, four kháns, seven schools for boys and an hundred -and fifty shops; as this place does not lie on the great road, but on one side of -it, its establishments are not very elegant. Tapán Ahmed Aghá began a new -bezestán with eighty shops on both sides of the main street; it is sheltered by a -roof against rain and foul weather, and protected by two gates on each side against -thieves and bad men. Watchmen keep guard every night because many precious -things are deposited there.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Description of a Lion.</i></h3> - -<p>Upon the gate leading to the outer town a lion, stuffed with cotton, is to be -seen, it has oranges in the place of eyes, yawning like a seven-headed dragon, with -a piece of red felt instead of a tongue, and teeth as sharp as Turcoman daggers or -Arab lances. It measures from its nose to its tail forty-five spans. This mountain -lion continued his havoc on the cattle of the neighbouring country for seven -years, when it was killed by a brave man, and placed by the order of Ahmed Tapán -upon the gate of his new built bezestán. It is a terrific beast, with feet resembling -columns; it is not so beautiful as the lions of Baghdád, Helle, Jevazer and -Kavarna, with their yellow coloured hair of a span’s length, like Angora-goats. -Lions being generally the inhabitants of deserts, this one of the mountains -deserves so much the more to be noticed. The mountains of this part, being -all covered with thick forests, abound with leopards, lynxes, wild sheep, martens, -wolves, foxes and jackals, and men are scarcely able to fetch wood from the mountains -because they are so full of ferocious animals. A party of Cossacks, who had -once pushed their inroads as far as these mountains, became the prey of wild -beasts; intending to devour men’s goods they were themselves devoured, and ever -since the town has enjoyed perfect security from the roving Cossacks, who availed -themselves of the vicinity of the Black Sea.</p> - -<p>In this town I saw another marvellous thing, it was a boy standing before a -barber’s shop with his father who begged alms; the boy was about eight or nine -years of age with a stupendous head, like the heads of the people of A’ad and -Themúd, like the head of Salsál (?) at Akgermán or like pumpkins of Adana and -cabbages of Ván, on a neck no thicker than an arm, which not being capable of -bearing such an enormous weight the head was supported by a wooden fork, -which was fixed in the ground, and on it the weight of the head rested. -This monstrous head, held up in this way before a barber’s shop, laughed in the -faces of all who passed by. It had no turban but a kind of coarse saddle-cloth -wrapped round it, the brows were of two fingers breadth extending to the ears, -which were of human form, but of immense size, as were also the eyes, the lashes -of which resembled arrows; the nose was somewhat of the shape of a Melonyena -(Bádinján) of Morea, and when breathing, the nostrils were like those of a snorting -horse; the mouth opened to such an astonishing width, that he was able to swallow -at once a small water melon; of his teeth two were curved outside of the mouth -towards the upper, and two downwards to the under lip; the lips were ruby-coloured -but like the lips of a camel; the spittle was continually running out of -his mouth. The physiognomy was that of a Kalmúk, and the hair crisped like that -of black Arabs. The arms and breasts were those of a boy’s of his years, the fingers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span> -very thin and the feet like sticks. This was a case to apply the verse of the -Koran to: “God does what he wills and orders what he likes.” I asked the -father whether the mother of this monstrous child was still alive, he said -“Yes, and that she was actually again with child.” I said, “Bandage her body -tightly, that she may miscarry, for if the head of the child should grow to the -size of its brother’s, its entrance into the world might cause an inconvenient -enlargement.” The father said, “You are joking, but I assure you most earnestly, -that when the mother of this boy laid in with him, the birth was so easy that -she was aware of nothing at all and thanked God for such an easy deliverance.” -I, poor Evliyá, said, “But never has there been created a creature with such a -head, such a face and such teeth; do you believe it to be the real produce of -your loins?” The man answered, “Having once gone to the mountain with my -wife to cut wood, we there enjoyed a shepherd’s hour in most pleasant conversation. -I then left her reposing under a tree, and went on my business, when -I suddenly heard her cries, and saw her running towards me pursued by a naked -giant, tall as the fir-trees. When she got home she fell sick, and her figure increased -in size daily, until at the end of a year’s time she was delivered of this boy, -whose head grows bigger and bigger every day.” I said, “If it please God, that it -should still grow to a larger size, you must come to Constantinople, where if -shown to the Vezirs and great men of the Empire he may easily gain two thousand -piastres in a year.”</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum.</i></h3> - -<p>This is a reddish alum produced in the mountains of this town, which is therefore -called Shábín Kara-hissár; it is much sought after by the goldsmiths of all -countries. The Inspectorship is let at seven hundred thousand aspers a year. -It breaks up into pentagon and sexagon stones shaped like the seal of Solomon; -the goldsmiths use it to brighten the silver, and the surgeons for plasters. It has -many excellent qualities. The temperature of this town being mild the inhabitants -are fair. Its quinces and a kind of small bread are famous. We remained here -three days as guests in the palace of Tapán Ahmed Aghá, purchased coffee, horse-shoes -and some other necessary things and then returned.</p> - -<p>On our journey we passed a great river, which flows into the Kerkúk, and -whose waters collect from the vallies of Mánd, Vál, and Kúrd-dereh. After six -hours march to the west we reached the village of Yakúb-aghá and further on, -along the shores of the Kerkúk, through steep and stony ways and the tremendous -pass of Bogház-kessen, to where the river, which flows through Amasia, enters -the Kerkúk, and falls into the sea at Ener. Having passed it we continued our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> -way for eight hours over hills and valleys and arrived at the Castle of Hájí Murád, -built by Uzún Hassan’s vezír. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan it surrendered -its keys without contest to Mahmúd Páshá, the vezír of Sultán Mohammed II. -It is a high and steep castle like that of Kavilí-hissár, of a thousand paces in -circumference and without a ditch, which from its situation on a hill would -be superfluous. In the castle are seventy small houses, but no market, khán, -bath, college or imáret. There are a great number of nut-trees. On the border -of the Kerkúk, which flows at the foot of the castle in a deep valley is a khán. -The Súbashí resident here is subordinate to Shábín Kara-hissár. I here informed -the Páshá of the strength of Shábín Kara-hissár, at which he was surprised. -From hence we ascended a high mountain to the north and came in six hours to -the village of Chaúdár; in seven more to Emírler, a village in the territory of -Shábín; in five more to an Armenian village; in four more to the west to the -village of Kílárjí Veliaga, on the border of a high mountain, consisting of two -hundred houses, in the jurisdiction of Iskefser, in five more to the station of -Básh-chiflik also in the jurisdiction of Iskefser on the frontier of Erzerúm and -Sívás, which has already been mentioned on our road to Erzerúm. Further to -the west is the castle of Ník-hissár (good castle) and five hours further the -village of Kazán-kia in the province of Sívás, in the jurisdiction of Ník-hissár. -Still passing to the west by Bogház-kessen we came through thick woods to the -village of Kúmánova; in two hours more to the great village Sontissa, on the -frontier of Nígissár, with three hundred houses, a mosque, and bath; and in five -hours more to Zavádí-tekiessí, of two hundred houses, on a high mountain on the -frontier of Ládík; a great foundation, being a great convent at the tomb of a -great saint. Its Dervishes are almost all of the Prophet’s family. I here performed -with the Páshá the prayer of I’idí-asha (Kurbán-bairám) and the Sheikh -of the convent gave us a repast. The tails having been sent on, we passed the next -morning in five hours the pass of Setlí-púlí, and arrived at the village of Hamíd, -which has a mosque and gardens; and in five hours more to the west, at Ládík.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Castle of Ládík.</i></h3> - -<p>This castle was built by one Havík one of the Greek Princes of Amasia. Melek -Ghází of the Dánishmend family, who came from Mahán with the Seljúk family, -conquered both Ník-hissár and Ládík in the same year. There are three Ládíks -in the Ottoman Empire, viz: that of Konia now quite ruined by rebellions, that -of Korládík in the province of Ván and the third, Ládík of Amasia. After the -conquest of the town by Bayazíd I., Ládík surrendered its keys to Timúr-tásh -Páshá, who accepted them with the good wish that the inhabitants might live<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span> -long. The blessing of this wish is still evident in the long and prosperous lives -of the inhabitants. Bayazíd II., when governor of Amasia, passed six months of -the year in this place and made a delightful garden, which is kept in order by -a Master (Ustá) and forty Bostánjís, Kúrújí and Tablakjí. It is a town free from -all duties and gifts, because it is the wakf of Bulbul Khatún the mother of Ahmed -I. The governor of Sívás has no right to interfere by his officers. The judge -has the rank and pay of three hundred aspers, but may collect in a fair way six -purses annually from the districts. There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, -Naíb and Mohtessib. The Castle is an old pile of building, which is now without -a commander or garrison; the Bostánjís run over the woods and heaths and -watch the town, which has seventeen quarters; forty-seven Mihrábs, six of which -are jamís and three of them Imperial ones; three thousand and twenty houses -covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; seven convents, the most remarkable -of which is that of Seid Ahmed Kebír; two baths; seven kháns; a large -caravánseraï, built by Gházi Davúd Páshá; four hundred shops, and a bezestán; -forty-one palaces of Vezírs and great men, all having baths; no particular college, -but lectures are given in all the mosques; eighteen schools for boys and two -dining establishments. The Noblemen wear sable pelisses, the merchants ferráje -and kontosh of cloth, and the women velvet trowsers, boots, ferráje of cloth, -white veils and pointed caps; they are no where to be seen but in the bath and -in the houses where they pay visits. They are most modest, lovely creatures, who -entangle lovers with sweet words and gracious behaviour.</p> - -<p>Its eatables are large pears better than those of Malatia, Nissú, Khúí and -Merend; delicious cherries, a kind of bread called Memejik-ekmek which is the -first bread in the world after the Súmún of Sapánja: there are no raisins, -melons, water-melons, figs, &c. The white honey called Tághbálí is not equalled -either by that of Creta, Adana or Sicily. Its fine cotton linen excels the linen -of Mossúl and Lekefúr in Persia.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Walks of Ládík.</i></h3> - -<p>The head fountain of the water Bállí-kiasú, which flows through the town, is -a pleasant walk on the Kiblah side. Another famous walk on the east side is -called Frenk-gozí, the Frank’s eye; Hossein Páshá built a koshk by the splendid -spring which arises here; the water is so cold that people cannot take out of it -three stones consecutively. The rivulets formed by those two sources of Bállí -and Frenk-gozí flow through the town supplying water to the palaces, kháns, -mosques, gardens, and mills, and terminate in the lake of Ládík. Another -walk is that called Akbínár, a fountain of cold water, which does not flow through -the town, but outside. All these sources rise in the high mountains to the north<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span> -of the town and find their way into the lake of Ládík. On the west of Ládík, a -pleasure-place called the monastery, a delightful spot with a water called Rámja, -which is sweeter than the water of Ma’avia. These united sources divide below -the castle into two branches, one of which waters the gardens of Kowa-mahallessí -below the pilgrimage of Khizrlik, and the other passes by the pilgrimage of Bálídedeh, -where the principal men come to meet the pilgrims returning from Mecca.</p> - - -<h3><i>The warm laths of Ládík.</i></h3> - -<p>A hot spring is situated one hour and a half on the west of Ládík on a -high hill in a village, called Khalliz, below which it flows as a small rivulet, turns -some mills, and falls into the Kizil Irmák; being situated behind the mountains of -Ládík it cannot fall into the lake. The warm bath of Khalliz is much renowned. -In the cherry season this place is visited by thousands of people, who here -renovate their health by God’s command. An outlet from this hot bath flows -into the river Khalliz which empties itself into the Kizil Irmák. Another warm -bath (Ilije, Turkish; Humma, Arabic; Germáb, Persian;) is on the west side of -Ládík in the jurisdiction of Kaúza. Kaúza is in this country the name of a hot -bath, which in Rúmelí is called Kainarje; in Tartary, Ilissí; in Mogolastán, -Kerenda; and Frangistán, Bagno. It is a double bath so that men and women -have their separate bathing places. The basin in the men’s apartment is ten feet -square and is such a delightful sight that it might restore dead men to life. The -water rushes forth from four lions’ mouths, which are at the four corners. The -water is not very warm, but in addition to this great basin there is a small one -the water of which is so extremely hot, that no man can bear it. On the four -sides of this great basin under vaults are eight bathing troughs, where thousands of -men are cured in the cherry season. In the same bath is a cold, limpid spring, -called the maiden’s eye (Kiz-gozí), which gives fresh life to those who drink -of it. The distance between this spring, cold as ice, and the hot spring is but -a yard.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Lake of Ládík.</i></h3> - -<p>This is a large lake to the east of Ládík, which would take a day to go round; -eleven different sorts of fish are found in it, the description of which would be -too long to give. Twenty-six springs and rivulets flow into this lake on its four -sides, from the districts of Zedaí, Súnssa, Kaúza and Zeitúm; it has no outlet. -On its border is Bogházi-koí, a pleasant village, and the village of Otúz, renowned -for its kaimak (cream), which is no where better; it can be cut like cheese and is -elastic as gum. If any Kaimak can be compared with it, it is that of Bíngol -(thousand lakes). Amasia lies eight hours to the south of Ládík, and to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span> -eastward is Ník-hissár; the jurisdiction of Kavákelí is at a journey’s distance. -To the west is the town of Koprí and the jurisdiction of Zeitúm at a journey’s -distance. North to it is the harbour of Samsún and further on Sinope.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages of Ládík.</i></h3> - -<p>Sheikh Seid Ahmed Kebír, buried in his own convent, was the disciple of -Sheikh Ekber who is also buried here in the old mosque, built by himself in the -year 952 (1545); he was one of the Sheiks of Sultán Orkhán. Beneath the -castle Sheikh Ya Wúdúd is buried, and Báli-dedeh at the meeting place of the -caravan of Mecca. Ghází Tayár Mustafa Páshá is also buried here beneath a -lead covered cupola.</p> - -<p>I remained at this place three days with my gracious Lord, the Páshá, to whom -great feasts were given, and then marched five hours to the west to the village -of Shabín-ághá, of two hundred houses, where Kássim Aghá gave a grand feast; -five hours further on we reached the village of Korkoí, of three hundred houses, -a mosque and gardens. The next day, when the tails were about to be carried -forward, two Chaúshes arrived as messengers from Constantinople to Diárbekr, -whom the Páshá arrested. On their being searched nothing was found but a -Khattí-sheríf to the Páshá of Baghdád, Sáleh Páshá, removing him from his -government and recalling him to Constantinople in order that he might be made -Kápúdán Páshá. The same day the Páshá despatched his messenger Sáleh to -Murteza Páshá, the brother of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, to acquaint -him that couriers from the Porte were on the way with an invitation to Constantinople -to which he should pay no attention, but beware of the snare laid for him, -and join instead the party of Várvár Alí Páshá, who was marching to Constantinople. -The Courier Sáleh received an hundred ducats to join Murteza Páshá -with all speed; and on the fourth day the Khassekí and Chaúsh, who were the -bearers of the Imperial rescript, were set at liberty and continued their route to -Baghdád. The Páshá remained six days at Korkoí and moved on the seventh, -when after five hours march we reached the old town of Merzifún.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Merzifún.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by the Dánishmend family and conquered by Bayazíd I. It is now -a castle in good condition and useful against rebels, in the sanjak of Amasia, -belonging to Sivás, and is guarded by watchmen. The town is a wakf of Saint -Pírdedeh and is commanded by the Kizlar Aghá. The judge, appointed with -three hundred aspers, may annually collect from the different districts six purses. -As it is an inland castle it has neither commander nor garrison. Its public<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span> -officers are a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb. We were -here the guests of Diláwer Aghá, the Silihdár of Tabání Mohammed Páshá, who -treated the Páshá and fourteen hundred men of his suite for ten days with the -greatest hospitality: so that not even a bag for the horses nor a cup of coffee were -provided for by the Páshás people. The officers were lodged in the town by -billet (Yáfteh) and lived with their hosts in perfect harmony like fathers and -sons; four thousand men of the troops were provided with lodgings in the neighbouring -villages, the inhabitants of which, though Turks, are of a gentle and -mild temper, and give freely of what they have. Every necessary for sustaining -life is here found in abundance. The town is situated on the border of Mount -Deshán and contains four thousand houses covered with brick, forty four quarters -and seventy mosques, the oldest of which is that of Murad II., in the market-place; -it is in the olden style with one mináreh, and is much visited.</p> - -<p>The colleges are, that of Murad II., where lectures are held also on tradition, -seventy schools for boys, and two dining rooms, one of which is at the -convent of Pírdedeh. At an hour’s distance from the town is the Convent of -Akásha, and in the towns are those of Abdul Kádir Jílání, and one of Khalvetís; -the Kháns are in the market. On the left corner of the gate of the old khán is -suspended the mace of a Pehliván.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the Baths.</i></h3> - -<p>The old bath, divided for men and women, was built by Mohammed I., and has -more than seventy troughs or basins. Round it dwell the felt and safian makers, -who tan blue, yellow and red safian. The walls of the bath are all lined with -chalk mixed with musk and amber, the odour of which pervades the whole -building and renders it so dry that neither on the walls nor on the windows does -a drop of moisture collect. Being an old building, however, it is not light, but -rather dark. The water is very warm and limpid.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of Pírdedeh.</i></h3> - -<p>When Murad II., the father of Mohammed II., was building a mosque and -college here, the enemies of Pírdedeh calumniated him by saying, that he accompanied -the women into the bath and foretold to them hidden things, which are -forbidden in the Korán, such as whether they would lie in with a boy or girl. -Murad II., angry at such scandalous behaviour, took his sword with the intention -of performing a meritorious action by killing the accused. When he came to the -bath and saw Pírdedeh walking about with an apron round his loins, he upbraided -him for mingling with the women in the bath and rubbing them instead of letting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">214</span> -it be done by the waiting women. Pírdedeh said, “My Prince, I do such -service only to women who are pregnant with great Doctors and learned men, and -therefore enter not the bath in the common way.” Thus saying, he entered -through the stone wall which opened for him, and the place is yet shown where -he passed through before the eyes of the Sultán. The Sultán then said, “I -came hither Dedeh to kill you with this sword in a legal way.” “Such is not -the act intended for you sword,” replied the Saint; “your sword is destined to -conquer Smyrna, which Timúr was unable to subdue; but which has fallen into -the hands of the Greeks. Go, therefore, and conquer Smyrna and eat this bread.” -On saying this, he took up two pieces of marble lying before the bath, kneaded them -like dough and presented them bread, one to Murad II., and the other to his son -Mohammed II., foretelling the conquest of Smyrna to the first and that of Constantinople -to the second. This prediction being fulfilled, twenty-six years -afterwards Mohammed gave to his convent an endowment of three hundred and -sixty-six villages, so that the whole town of Merzifún belongs to this foundation. -Every year a Mutevellí (administrator) from the Kizlar Aghá, who is the Názir -(inspector) accompanied by three hundred horsemen, comes to take possession of -the village and distribute its revenues among the dervishes and other poor men. -The two pieces of white marble bread are actually shown fixed into the wall, where -the Saint passed through it. This bath is a place for miraculous cures, and is the -counterpart of the bath built by Avicenna.</p> - -<p>The houses of the town, adorned with Sháhneshíns (projecting windows) all -look towards the kiblah. Its inhabitants are sound and healthy on account of -the prevalence of easterly winds. In the summer the inhabitants repair to Mount -Deshán for summer lodgings (Yaila). These alps were given of old, when the -Dánishmend family came from Mohán in Khorassán, to the sons of Deshán and -are now in possession of one of their descendants, who receives a duty for the -pasture of many hundred thousand head of cattle. Some hundred rills and -rivulets, flowing down from these heights, water all the fields and gardens of the -town. The nature of the soil is such, that however copiously it may rain, the -fields are not productive unless watered by the rills of Deshán; but then they -become so fertile that the corn returns an hundred fold; for one kíle at least -eighty. These rills are under the inspection of a particular Aghá, who regulates -the distribution of them, for if such a magistrate were not appointed, the inhabitants -of Merzifún would kill each other for the sake of the water. A part of the -rills and sources of Mount Deshán flow in the direction of Koprí and water its -fields and gardens; another into the district of Kaúza in the valley of Ládík; -and another still to the northward to the valley of Osmánjik. The town of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span> -Merzifún stands on a hilly site backed by Mount Deshán. Amasia is fifteen -hours on the kiblah-side of this town, Ládík twelve, Osmánjik sixteen, Gumish -ten, and Kerkerán eight. On the northern border of Mount Deshán stands -the castle of Koja Kala’assí, looking upon the town of Koprí. If you march -from Merzifún along Mount Deshán for five hours to the northward you arrive at -Koprí, and in three journeys further at Samssún, which is the harbour of Merzifún, -it being nearer to it than Sinope.</p> - - -<h3><i>Products.</i></h3> - -<p>Must, pure as that of Aintáb, sweet raisins, and the white bread of Pírdedeh; -six hundred shops almost all occupied by dyers, who dye a peculiar blue even -finer than the Persians. Its cotton stuffs are exported in great quantities to -Crimea and exchanged for prisoners; the ferrájes and dresses of the inhabitants -of Crimea are made of the stuffs of Merzifún. Its spun cotton, shirts, blankets, -cushions and other printed articles are also in good estimation.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún.</i></h3> - -<p>The first of all the Saints of this place is Sheikh Pírdedeh, who came with -Hají Begtásh from Khorassán by permission of Koja Yessúí. He dwelled outside -of Merzifún to the north on a hill, and spent his days in the baths as a Santon -from the time of Orkhán to that of Mohammed II. His convent which is a -larger building than even that of Koyún-bábá at Osmánjik, is provided with a -kitchen and cellar (Kílár) and affords every night lodgings and food to two or -three hundred travellers; two hundred dervishes of the order Begtáshí, barefoot -and bareheaded, serve their guests who visit the tomb of the Saint, say a Yass in -honor of the deceased and perfume their brains with the sweet odour of musk, -which exhales from his tomb. So great a number of candlesticks, lamps, -candelabra, vases for rose water and censers are not even to be seen at Imán -Riza. His habit, carpet, banner, drum, crown, mace, sling and strap, the treasure -of these dervishes, are preserved in boxes, and many thousand travellers both on land -and sea have here suspended their slings and maces in eternal remembrance. I, -poor Evliya, being a great friend of Dervishes, according to the Prophet’s -tradition: “Poverty is my glory!” put with their permission the crown of -Pírdedeh, which is a Turkish cap of felt, on my head; the whole convent meanwhile -resounding with the cries of Allah and pious prayers. The building is -entirely covered with lead. The second pilgrimage is that of Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím -Ben Emír Merzifúní, who was the disciple of Zein-ud-dín Háfí at Brússa and -composed the work, Wassayaí Kudsie (Mystic Admonitions). He accepted a -living of eight aspers a day at the mosque of Sultán Mohammed I., at Merzifún,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span> -where he lived and died; his tomb is now a place generally visited. In his mystic -poems he has taken the name of Rúmí, they are all in the style and cant of the -Sofís. We remained ten days in this town to look at its curiosities. On the -tenth day arrived Murád the Khassekí and Haúrúzjí the Chaúsh, who had been -put into prison for four days by our gracious Lord, the Páshá, that his messenger, -Sáleh, despatched before them to Murteza Páshá, might arrive first; but “Man -proposes and God disposes;” Sáleh was struck by apoplexy at Nissibín and -remained there, while the two messengers of the Porte, who started four days -after him, arrived at Murteza Páshá’s lodging at Diarbekr, presented him first -with the diploma of Captain Páshá, for which good news they received a sable -pelisse and a purse of money each, and then attacked him suddenly and severed -his head from his body. They now arrived at the Mehkemeh (Court of Justice) -of Merzifún with the head in a box, which they there deposited, and then came -into the presence of the Páshá, who was surrounded by all his men, their hands -grasping the daggers in their belts. The Khassekí and Chaúsh trembled like -leaves, kissed the threshold of the gate and after having sat down on their heels, the -Páshá upbraided them saying, “Infidels, why have you killed this unfortunate -Murteza Páshá? All your things and saddlecloths had been searched, and -nothing was found but the diploma appointing Murteza, Kapúdán Páshá; where -did you hide the order for his death? Pray, speak the truth.” They said, “Most fortunate -Vezír we are servants who but do what we are ordered. The proverb says, ‘If -there were not the Sultán’s words the executioner would not commit the deed.’ We -hid the order for death in a leaden box, in the water-bottle, where it escaped -the search. We reached Murteza Páshá before your messenger, who was struck -by apoplexy, and after having prevailed on him to return from Baghdád to -Diarbekr, we there opened the bottle, took out the firmán and executed it. The head -is now at the Mehkemeh, and the command is yours; who should beware of your -own head. Health to you!” The Páshá satisfied with the Khassekí’s answer -gave him a purse of money, saying, “Now get you gone, or God may send you -misfortune!” The Páshá was now troubled about his own fate, and began to -collect Sárija and Segbán (irregular levies), wrote letters to Várvár Páshá and -sent me to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who was then in the town of his birth -(Koprí) and to Hassan Aghá who was at Kilis.</p> - - -<h3><i>Journey from Merzifún to Koprí.</i></h3> - -<p>We set out on the 10th Moharrem in a northerly direction along Mount -Deshán, passed the village of Begorán and in six hours reached Koja Kala’a -a small castle on a rock accessible but by one road and one gate. It was besieged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span> -at different times by the rebels Karayázijí, Saíd Arab and Kalender, but never -was taken by them. It was however conquered by Bayazíd I., from the Dánishmend -family and belongs now to the district of Koprí; the garrison consists of -an hundred men, and it has a mosque, cistern, magazine for corn and seven or -eight small guns, but no bath, khán or bezestán. The inhabitants make cans of -fir-tree, which go by the name of bodúj, they also manufacture musical instruments -called chekúr, tanbúr, rádha, karadozen, yúnghár, &c. In six hours more, -after passing many villages on the border of Mount Deshán, we arrived at Koprí.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí.</i></h3> - -<p>We dismounted at the house of Yússúf Aghá, where we stopped as guests, and -delivered our letters to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and the other principal men, -we then collected the Búlúk-bashís and ordered cryers to proclaim that all those -who wished to have goods and slaves, and possessed breeches and a horse, were to -come to us. After this we went to view the town. Koprí is a fortress in good -condition on the border of Mount Deshán, in a tract intersected by hills and -valleys at a place watered by two rivers. One of these is called Bogha-koí and -flows past the bottom of the town; the other is at an hour’s distance, and is -called Astavolúz. The town of Koprí is situated between them. At the time of -their overflowing they inundate the whole plain of Koprí; the town derives its -name Koprí (bridge) from the great wooden bridge by which the Astavolúz -river is crossed. It is a wonderful work constructed of fir-trees. At an early -period this town was called Shebender, the name for a bridge in the language of -the Amalekites. The stone bridge, which was formerly here, broke down on the -night of the birth of the Prophet, and was replaced by this wooden one. The two -rivers which flow past the town of Koprí unite below it and fall into the great -river Báfra. This town was first built by the Amalekites and was taken by Melek -Ghází, the Prince of the Dánishmend family, from the Greek Emperors of Trebisonde. -Bayazíd I. took the fortress, the abovesaid castle of Koja Kala’a, by -capitulation. It now belongs to the government of Amasia, half of it being a -ziámet and the other half a subáshílik subordinate to Tokát; the judge is -appointed with three hundred aspers. Its districts contain no less than an hundred -and forty villages with gardens, kháns, mosques covered with lead, and from -three to four thousand houses all covered with bricks; the great borough Bogház-koí -has three thousand houses; the other remarkable places of similar extent are -Baghjeh-koí, Doyán-koí, Akdepeh-koí and Akoren-koí. From these hundred and -forty villages and boroughs the judge annually collects seven thousand piastres. -There is a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiayayerí, Mohtessib and Naíb, but as it is an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> -inland castle it has neither commander nor garrison. The rebels Kara Yazijí -and Said Arab were natives of this town, but having been defeated at Erla they -fled and became rebels. To secure this town against them a second castle of -earth was built close to the stone castle, and the two have four gates, but the -shops and markets are outside in the suburb.</p> - -<p>The town of Koprí consists of six thousand houses covered with bricks of two -stories, the lower story being built of stone and the upper of oak whitened with -chalk; so that all the houses dazzle the eye by their brilliancy. The winter -being severe they are all provided with chimneys, which lift their bonneted -heads like white Minárehs. These chimneys looking like tall white columns give a -good appearance to the town, which is all covered with red bricks. The principal -building of stone in the castle is the Seraï of Elháj Yússúf Aghá built by Koprilí -Mohammed Páshá; there are altogether seventy palaces, and twenty mihrábs, -in eleven of which the khutbeh is performed. In the stone castle is the mosque -of Hájí Yússúf Aghá, with a water basin, a jet d’eau, and a mináreh covered with -lead. Of the convents the first is that of the great Sheikh, that of the Káderites, -and of the Khalvetí, but there are none of the Mevleví. The people generally are -friendly to Dervishes. There are eleven kháns, two imárets, and five colleges, -because its lawyers, divines, medical men and students are numerous. The -schools for boys are forty-eight, that of Hájí Yússúf is covered with lead and -richly endowed. There are various baths, the best of which is the double one of -Ahmed Páshá, a thousand shops, and a strong bezestán with four gates. Yússúf -Aghá may be called the last builder of this town which he enriched by a great -many endowments; the bezestán was also his building. The most elegant -market-place is that of the tanners, who illuminate every night their shops with -candles; there are also a great many dyers. Its gardens are in full cultivation -and produce excellent fruits. The pears, grapes, cotton wares, wove and spun, -and the blue linen are as famous as its rosy-cheeked beauties. The harbours of -this town on the shores of the Black Sea are Báfra and Sinope, which are but a -journey distant. At five hours distance is the strong castle of Ardoghán, which -I am now about to describe.</p> - -<p>The castle of Ardoghán is situated on a high hill, which is ascended by five -hundred steps and therefore only accessible to men; it is a single rock like the -fortress of Márdín. The highest point is a crooked rock, which seems to threaten -ruin every moment. Melek Ghází, the conqueror of Nigissár, also conquered this -town; and it was afterwards taken by Bayazíd I. It is commonly called Seddí -Turkmán, the dyke of the Turcomans. The castle now contains an hundred and -fifty houses, a cistern, mosque, and magazine for corn. Precious articles are kept<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span> -within this castle and in that of Koja Kala’a on the border of mount Deshán. A -Dizdár and forty-eight men do the duty. The castle is rendered safe by a -drawbridge against the attacks of rebels. There is no market khán or bath. -The district belongs to the jurisdiction of Koprí. Six hours westward is the -station of Gol, a village in the district of Zeitún, with a mosque, a khán, and a -bath. Six hours further, the village of Súrúk in the jurisdiction of Zeitún; and -after a march of six hours along the Yaila of Kondúz we arrived at Zeitún, a large -place in the territory of Amasia of two thousand houses with kháns, mosques, -baths, schools and numerous gardens. Six hours further is the large place -(Kassaba) Karghú, belonging to the sanjak of Kanghrí, of six hundred houses -with gardens, a mosque, khán, and bath. Six hours further, the town of Túsia -which has already been described. We remained here one day and returned -again to Merzifún. The third day I arrived at Koprí, where I found every thing -in the greatest confusion and the whole town in an uproar, because Koprilí -Mohammed Páshá had received orders from the Porte to march against the rebels. -From hence I went in six hours towards the kiblah to the village of Begoran on -the border of mount Deshán, which we had passed in coming but did not stop at. -In another six hours we again reached Merzifún and met Defterdár-zádeh -Mohammed Páshá, my gracious Lord, to whom I brought two hundred men, -Sáríja. He was overjoyed at this and instantly formed them into two companies -(Bolúk), giving them the names of the company of Evliya Guzerlí and Habíb; -and in addition to twenty-four other companies of irregular levies, they made -together twenty-six hundred men. I remained ten days longer at Merzifún -employing my time in collecting men, and on the 27th of Moharrem left it -for the farm of Murteza Páshá, which I reached in six hours.</p> - -<p>This is a very productive farm (Chiftlik) situated in the plain of Merzifún. As -snow was falling here we suffered much from the cold and in three hours, after -many difficulties, reached Kúlák Hájí Koí, a village of two hundred houses with a -ruined khán and a mosque. The inhabitants had all fled and there remained -not even a cock in the village. The troops were dying of hunger, and during the -night so heavy a storm blew that the snow was five spans deep in the morning. -When the trumpets of departure sounded we moved on, though every one cursed -the march, and struggling with difficulty against the gale and snow reached the -straight called Diriklipúl, where the distress was very great owing to the fury of -the gale, the quantity of snow, the uncertainty of the road and the want of provisions. -The Páshá distributed money and encouraged some of the bravest to go -in search of the road, through the midst of the snow, which they passed over in -shoes made of horse-hair. This sort of shoe is called Páchila, and is used in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span> -Turkistán and Persia when snow has fallen to any depth. It consists of a circle -like a sieve, the inside of which is fashioned into a shoe made of horse-hair; -this they put on their feet to walk over the snow. The circle round the shoe is -to give a greater surface to the foot in order to prevent it from sinking into the -snow. Provided with such shoes the troops entered the straight, but were in the -greatest distress, for some were lost notwithstanding these Páchila. Mules, camels -and horses were stumbling one over the other and cries and lamentations pierced -the air. The Sárija and Segbáns, so many Calibáns (Kaltiban) were the first who -fled. In short it was impossible to pass the straight of Diriklipúl and therefore -we were obliged to repair with the rest of the troops and the heavy baggage -of the Pásha to Gumish Kala’a (Silver Castle), which we reached after a six hour’s -march. We remained here three days till the falling of the snow had ceased. -All those who hastened to the fire lost their sight for some time, and those only -who did not approach it, but endured the cold, retained the use of their eyes. -Seventeen men lost either a leg or a hand or a foot by the excessive cold, and -the leg or hand being cut off, the stumps were dipped into boiling resin, so -that their cries pierced the air.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the town of Gumish.</i></h3> - -<p>It was built by the Byzantine Emperors and was conquered by Melek Ghází -of the Dánishmend family. When Bayazíd I. marched to the conquest of -Amasia the inhabitants of Gumish met him, and presented him with some silver -vases and the keys of the castle. The inhabitants are therefore free of all duties, -but it is incumbent upon them to work the silver mines. The inspectorship is -held by lease, and furnishes annually to the Porte seventy quintals of pure silver, -and one thousand pair of horse-cloths. In the Ottoman Empire there are no less -than seventy silver mines, but this affords the purest silver; the goldsmith alloy -an hundred drachms of this pure silver with ten of copper, and yet it is a good white -silver, which receives the Imperial stamp. There are seven veins underground, -which increase from day to day. The inhabitants of the town are all employed -in the mines, and their commander is the inspector of the silver mines. The judge, -appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers, may collect seven purses a year. -The castle of this town situated on a hill is in a ruined state and has no accommodation -at all within; being an inland castle it has neither a garrison nor commander. -There is a Serdár and a Kiaya-yerí of the Janissaries, and the town -consists of a thousand houses covered with planks, eleven mosques, of which that -in the market-place is the most frequented, but no hospital, the salubrity of the -air rendering one superfluous. Its products are the purest silver and horse-cloths<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span> -and bags, which the Imperial stables and those of the principal men of Constantinople -are furnished with from hence. The gardens produce good grapes. In -the town are heaped up mounds of earth taken from the mines. We remained -here three days on account of the heavy gales, and then advanced five hours to -the south, suffering from the snow, to Dankaza-koí, a village of an hundred -houses belonging to the jurisdiction of Gumish in the territory of Amasia. Near -the farm of Kosseh Sha’abán Páshá is the Pilgrimage of Bardáklí-bábá and Akche-bábá, -who are both buried here. The first gained his living by making cans -(Bardák) for which the village is still famous. We visited the tomb of Bardáklí-bábá; -after holding a council we approached, amidst a thousand difficulties, the -high mountain of Kirk Dilim, which was passed with much suffering and the loss -of many stragglers who returned to Dánkaza. Alí Aghá, the Kiaya of the Páshá, -encouraged some brave lads, who had not yet lost their hands and feet, to wrap -up the feet of the horses and mules by tearing up many carpets and coverlets, -and in this way passed them over the snowy mountain of Kirk Dilim; but the -heavy baggage, the munition, cellar, kitchen, and artillery were all left in the -snow. The Kiaya of the Páshá again distributing money, the bags and casks -were dragged up and rolled over the snow. This night was passed in a woody -valley without the means of getting on, and seventy men, who had lost their -hands and feet, remained behind. The next morning we continued our way -amidst snow and storms through the straight of Kirk Dilim, and arrived after -eight hours painful march at a village, the name of which has escaped my -memory, whose inhabitants had all fled upon the news of our arrival. Men and -horses during the night were nearly dying of hunger, and there was such a gale -and heavy storm of snow that in the morning it was five spans in depth. On the -signal of departure being given the Kullákjí, conductors (Sarbán), and tent-pitchers -(Mehter) assembled before the Páshá’s tent and declared they were unable to -stir. Ten piastres were promised to the men, but they answered, “Health first, -then wealth.” The Páshá said, “My children, how is it possible to remain in this -place, where there is not a grain of provisions?” In short the Kullákjí (leaders) -could not be induced to move on until they had received a present of fifteen -purses from the Páshá. There was, however, such a storm of wind, hail and snow -that the horses danced like Dervishes Mevleví, and the camels like Lúlús (Tatar -robbers). The unhappy leaders of them put their hands in their bosoms and -uttered a piteous cry. Praise be to God! we now entered a forest and were a -little sheltered against the wind and snow, and after a march of five hours arrived -at the great village of Bardákjí, in the jurisdiction of Gumish, consisting of an -hundred houses. From hence continuing our march to the south we arrived in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span> -four hours at the station of Kirk Dilim, a place of two hundred Mussulmen houses -in the sanjak of Chorún. Here both men and horses rested till the following day, -when the weather clearing up we proceeded through cultivated villages to the -town of Chorúm, said to have been built (God knows if truly) by Kilij Arslán, -the Prince of the Seljúk family, who sent his son Yakúb Mirza and some hundred -sick men to this town, where being cured, it received in consequence -the name of Chorúm. From the hands of the Seljúkides it passed into those of -the Dánishmend family from whom it was taken by Ilderím; it is now the seat -of a Sanjak Beg in the government of Sívás. His khass is three hundred thousand -aspers, nineteen ziámets, and thirty-one timárs. There is a Colonel (Alaí-beg) a -Captain (Cherí-báshí) a judge appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers, and -receiving from its districts annually five purses, a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár, Kiaya-yerí, -Mohtessib, Súbáshí, Inspector of the hall (Kapán Emíní) and Náíb of the town. -The military officers are in great favour because the troops are numerous and -there are a great number of bad men. Lodgings were positively refused to our -Páshá; but mediators were employed and documents were made out at the -Mehkemeh (Court of Justice), so that they were prevailed upon to give us -lodgings, but only for the space of three days. The town consists of forty-two -quarters in which are forty-two mosques, four thousand three hundred houses -covered with bricks and surrounded with gardens; nine mosques where the Friday -prayer is performed, of which that of Sultán Murad is the best, it had but one -minareh which was throw down by Ilderím Bayazíd. The mosque of Sultán -Ala-ud-dín was repaired under Sultán Súleimán by the architect Sinán; as it is -situated in the market-place it is much frequented. That of Murad covered with -lead is the finest. The new bath is a foundation belonging to the bath of Alí -Páshá at Tokát; in the palaces are many other baths. Of the colleges, of which -there are seven, that of Murad is the most frequented; there are eleven schools -for boys, seven kháns and eighteen fountains, the water by which they are supplied -was conducted hither by Sultán Súleimán, in honour of the martyrs of Kerbela -(who died of thirst). The convents of Dervishes are three, but no house for -reading the korán or for tradition exists. The shops are three hundred, in which -all the necessaries of life are to be found, although this is a town of Turkistán. -The temperature of the climate gives red cheeks and good proportions to the -inhabitants, who almost all wear cloth. The fair sex and the winter are both -renowned. The Castle on the kiblah side of the town has only been built for -protection against riots and rebellion. It has an iron gate, a commander and -garrison. God knows! but it seems to have been built since the Islám, because -there is no trace of any building of the time of the infidels.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span></p> - -<p>On the day we came here the late chief barber of the Sultán arrived in the -quality of Kapijí-báshí accompanied by forty other chamberlains, saying, that he -was the bearer of the diploma of the government of Diárbekr. The Páshá -surrounded himself with all his guards, Sárija, Segbán, Gonullí (volunteers) three -hundred pages and all the Levends. The forty kapijís entered trembling and -the Páshá having asked, where the diploma was they had boasted of, was -assailed all at once by them, but before they were able to do any harm to him, -they were all disarmed and bound by his guards and soldiers. The Segbán and -Sárija called for the executioners and were going to cut off their heads, when the -principal men of the town kissed the earth before the Páshá, and begged the -lives of these kapijí-báshís, who were, they said, only servants executing their -master’s commands and therefore should be spared. The Páshá yielding to their -prayers set them at liberty, instead of thrashing them to death as he ought to have -done. Being liberated they went to the Mehkemeh, called the Sanjak Beg, read -the firmán and demanded in consequence that the troops should be driven out of -the town. The inhabitants remonstrated against it, showing that they might all be -in danger of being cut to pieces and their houses burned down, if they were to -undertake the least thing against the troops. The Páshá being made acquainted -in time of what was going on, sent word to the kapijís immediately to quit the -place if they wished to escape in safety. Thus they were all driven out of the -town. The next day a messenger was despatched to Várvár Alí Páshá to acquaint -him with what had happened. The inhabitants finding that our Páshá was a -goodnatured and righteous Vezír gave him the salutary advice not to march to -Constantinople, but always to remain at one or two journeys distance from Várvár -Alí Páshá, and to take his station, until the snow should melt and the weather -clear up, at Tokát or Kázova. The Páshá approving of their advice, visited the -tomb of Sheikh Olván Chelebí, the son of Ashik Páshá, and proceeded to Tokát. In -this plain we remained ten days, during which the Páshá received letters from -Várvár Alí Páshá, exhorting him to be on his guard, and, as the spring was now -approaching and the weather clearing up, to collect as many troops as he could -for the march to Constantinople. The Páshá made as though he were going to -Angora, and on the eleventh day we arrived in the plain of Chorúm at the -convent of Sídim Sultán, a convent of bareheaded and barefooted Begtáshí, -where the Páshá was lodged and splendidly feasted. The village of Kara -Kechelí of two hundred houses in the territory of Chorúm is an hour’s distance -from the red river. Here the snow beginning to fall and the wind to blow, the -Sárija and Segbán drove the families out of their houses, threw the cradles with -the children in them on to the snow, dug out the gates and thresholds to bring<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span> -their horses into the rooms to the fire, and committed the same excesses, that -they did at Gumish and Dánkaza, and which exceeded even the tyranny of -Yessúf Hejáj. The next day we left Kara Kechelí and instead of passing over -the bridge of Cháshnegír on the red river, proceeded to the passage of Kara -Yechíd; which was indeed a bad measure, because the passage is a cruel one. -It had ceased snowing but was so piercingly cold that the men and horses -trembled like leaves; nevertheless the orders for the passage were given. It -commenced with the tent-camels, the kitchen, stable and other heavy baggage of -the Páshá’s led by twenty able pilots. Two hundred strings of camels and one -hundred of mules belonging to the Páshá, as well as mine and the Kiaya’s passed -over, and, went with all this heavy luggage to Kúrdseraí, but myself and the -Kiaya remained on this side of the river waiting to see the passage of the baggage -of all the Aghás. In the morning their heavy things arrived along with the -treasure-camels of the Páshá, but at the moment the pilots had entered the river -with them, there arose such a storm of hail and snow, of thunder and of lightning, -that the strings of mules and camels were broken, numbers of them upset in the -middle of the river, and a great many lost. Great masses of ice, the shape of -mill-wheels, now began to float down the river and blocked the shores at the -bridge of Cháshnegír. In the midst of the confusion which took place on both -shores of the river, the Páshá arrived with his music sounding. He distributed -large sums of money amongst the inhabitants of Kúrdseraí, who rescued the men -and animals, while the troops on both sides of the river were running about crying -and lamenting. Some brave fellows swam amongst the drifting shoals, but others -were submerged, and camels, mules, horses and men, were floating about in confusion -and dismay; some of whom were drowned and some saved. Some -Kurds and Turcomans swam into the midst of the ice and rescued many camels, -mules and horses, but as those who had crossed had left their clothes on this side -the river, it so happened that a great number perished from cold. Of all the -baggage, only that which had passed over before the ice began to drift was saved, -the rest was lost. An hundred and sixty men, more than a thousand horses and -mules were drowned, but only a small number of camels. The drowned men -were for the most part Kulenkjí, Sárija and Segbán; some going to paradise and -others to hell: the latter were at least delivered from the hell of winter. This -horrible discomfiture lasted only from the morning till afternoon, when the -drifting of the ice and the storm suddenly ceased, so that the Tatars, Delís, and -Gonillás, who had waited till then, crossed over without the least difficulty. -Witnessing these misfortunes I reflected on the cruel conduct of those troops, -who had behaved in so barbarous a manner in the passage at Chardáklí-púlí, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span> -now at Kúrd-dereh: burning down the houses, throwing infants on the snow and -wounding men and women with battle-axes. The inhabitants of the villages -came crying and lamenting to the Páshá,; but what was to be done with this -crowd of Sárija and Segbán, of whom the Páshá stood in need and whose excesses -therefore he was obliged to tolerate. I, poor Evliya, whilst witnessing those -scenes, shivered at the thought of the vengeance which God would send one day -on those cruel troops.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praise of Sheikh Bárdáklí-bábá.</i></h3> - -<p>Near the above mentioned place is the pilgrimage of a Saint called Bárdáklí-bábá, -a disciple of Sheikh Hájí Bairám. He obtained his living by making cans, -which afforded a continual supply of water for the ablutions of his disciples. His -can is suspended from his tomb and therefore he is called Bárdáklí-bábá, the -father of cans or tankards. With the leave of the tomb-keeper, I took down the -suspended can to perform my ablutions and found it full of clear water, though -covered with the dust of forty years. The Páshá’s Imám and some others of his -suite were astonished at this extraordinary sight, they asked the keeper if he -would swear the can had not been recently filled with water. He swore that it -had not been touched for forty years until I, poor Evliya, had taken it down to -perform my ablutions. The Imám and the others said, “Well then Evliya hang it -up again,” but I being determined to carry my point would not until I had performed -the ablution in the legal way. The Imám and four other persons then -did the same, but the water was not diminished in the least to our great -astonishment. We again hung up the can, which was of a reddish colour, and on -its side was written the verse of the Súra Ra’ad, “He sent water from heaven,” -the number 66626, three Ks, two Js and one M, the figure of a glass and of a -can. I now began to recite the Korán according to the intention of the Saint, -with whom I made spiritual acquaintance, remarking the Prophet’s tradition, “If -you are perplexed in your affairs look for assistance from the Inhabitants of the -tombs.” The mirror of my heart was polishing and rubbing off the rust of -sadness, when a woman walked in, who threw the body of a dead child and herself -on the threshold of the tomb, crying and lamenting that her child had been killed -by the troops, who had cast it on the snow, and calling down divine vengeance -upon them, through the aid of the Prophet and the Saints. She was followed by -a great number of injured men, who united their prayers and imprecations with -hers. I trembled at hearing them, and drawing near with a friendly face, kissing -their hands and cheeks, I said to them,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span> “People of Mohammed, I also belong to -the troops of the Páshá, who, God knows, does not approve of their excesses; but -he has been forced to collect them in order to save his own head, which is -endangered by the Grand Vezír, Ahmed Páshá, on whom must be laid the fault -of all this.” An old man gave me some comfort by saying, that I was not included -in this imprecation, which was to fall only on the troops; and a good deal -of it was realized at the above described passage of the river, where so many lost -their lives and goods, while I, poor Evliya, God be thanked for it! passed over -safely to the opposite side.</p> - -<p>The borough of Kúrdlar-seraí (wolves’ palace) is situated in the Sanjak of -Kánghrí in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik on the bank of the red river and consists -of four hundred houses covered with terraces, a mosque, a khán and a bath. -Here the Páshá appointed two Aghás to watch the endeavours made to retrieve -from the river some of the lost baggage. Moving on to the north we arrived at -the village of Boyalí, situated in the territory of Kanghrí; five hours further, the -village Akche-Koyúnlí of an hundred Turcoman houses; and three hours further, -the village of Kojí-bábá, situated in the jurisdiction of Kala’ajik, of two hundred -Turcoman houses, which do not appear above ground but are all below it, with -stables, kitchens and sitting-rooms. The reason for the construction of these -subterraneous houses is the violence of the winter; they are all built of a soft stone, -which has the appearance of having been whitened with chalk. Chests, boxes, -and rafters are all cut in this stone, which is as soft as cheese; the houses are so -large, that a thousand men might be lost in them, and yet is there nothing seen -of them above ground. Here is the pilgrimage of Kojí-bábá, one of the disciples -of Hájí-begtásh. There is no other building but the convent; the tomb is -adorned with lamps and candelabras. His banner, drum, habit and carpet are all -preserved as though he were himself present. The Turcomans have great faith -in this saint. At Keskin (the name of this place) is also the tomb of Sheikh -Ibrahím Tenúrí Ben Sarráf Hossein, one of the disciples of Ak-shems-ud-dín; he -was born at Sivás. Five hours further to the north is the village of Sheikh -Shámí of the order of Bairámís, whose name was Hamza; the sect of the Hamzeví -take their name from him. Many miracles are recorded of him, one of them -is the spring which he called forth by his staff and which is, therefore, actually -called the Spring of the Staff. He is buried beneath a high cupola near the -mosque which he himself built, but which is not covered with lead. Its mihráb -is of very great dimensions, and the stones are adorned with inscriptions in Kúfí, -Jellí, Mostea’assemí, Ríhání, and Thúlúth characters. The verses: “Every time -Zacharias went before the Mihráb,” and “He was standing praying before the -Mihráb,” and the verses Kursí and Emen-er-ressúl are written upon it. On both -sides it is carved and sculptured in a most astonishing way with flowers and arabesque -ornaments, so that the stone seems rather to be engraved or painted than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span> -sculptured. Some say it is the work of Sheikh Shám himself, and it is indeed -probable because it is such a wonderful work, like the paintings of Mání and -Behzád Aghá Riza Wání. Before his tomb rises the Spring of the Staff which is -much visited. From hence we went five hours to the north to the village of -Hossein Aghá in the district of Kala’ajik and five hours further to the village of -Kala’ajik itself, which was built by the Prince of Brússa Sirúna for his daughter. -Topál the commander of Kastemúní conquered it; and he resisted the Ottoman -power, till at last Ilderím Bayazíd took by surprise this castle, which is not to be -conquered in any other way. It is now the seat of a Subáshí of the Sanjak of -Kánghrí, and a judge is appointed to it with an hundred and fifty aspers, and -collects from the districts annually four purses; there is also a Dizdár and a -garrison of twenty men.</p> - - -<h3><i>Form of the Castle.</i></h3> - -<p>It is situated on a high reddish cliff, towering into the clouds, as though built -by Ferhád. The walls are sixty royal cubits high, as it is an isolated rock there -are no ditches. An iron-gate opens to the kiblah side and within the castle -are about twenty houses, a mosque, a magazine of corn, a cistern, and six small -guns. The inhabitants of the neighbouring tracts deposit in this castle their -effects and precious things from fear of rebels and robbers, and the commander -is the keeper of these deposited goods. It is not commanded by any neighbouring -height and is surrounded with gardens. One the kiblah-side is a well-built -suburb, but without fortifications (robát), consisting of two thousand houses partly -covered with bricks and partly with earth; the largest is the palace of Shehsuvár -Páshá, they all face towards the kiblah-side; the streets instead of being paved -with stone, are all strewn with sand. There are seventeen mosques, that in the -market place having one mináreh, thirteen schools for boys, a small bath, three -khans and six coffee-houses; the air is good, but not the water. We lodged here -in the palace of Shehsuvár Páshá, and I thanked God that I could change clothes, -and lie quietly down after the many fatigues undergone.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán.</i></h3> - -<p>There is but one steep path from the castle, at the bottom of which near the -market is the tomb of this saint in a narrow place. On leaving it we marched five -hours to the North to the village of Kúrbághlí, in the territory of Kánghrí and -the district of Kala’ajik, of two hundred houses with mosques and gardens, where -Sheikh Abd-allah, the son of Sheikh Shámí, is buried; his tomb is covered with -a simple roof, and is without a convent. Five hours further to the North we -came to the village of Nenegler, in the territory of Kala’ajik, a Turkish village of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> -an hundred houses; a cubit of snow fell during the night, so that nobody could -leave their lodgings. In the morning when departure was sounded the horses -were loaded with the greatest pain; Turks served as guides, and thus we marched -three hours to the straight of Alák-púlí, where we were assailed by such a storm -and rain, that the confusion and horror was general, and many lost their lives. -The Aghás of the Páshá, and even his treasurers left the treasure and fled away. -Mustafa Beg the son of the Páshá with his governor (Lálá), master (Khoja) and -servants were missing; the strings of mules and camels were broken and they were -straying on the mountains. I halted a little in a sheltered valley and then with -six of my boys and three packhorses looked for a house, where I found three -others of my slaves and ten Cháshnegírs; so that we were now twenty-five -persons. Thus we passed the straight of Sárí Alák and arrived happily at the -plain on the other side without knowing where we were going to.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>Here six pages of the original are omitted, which give a detailed account of -Evliya’s falling into a nest of robbers, headed by Hyder-zádeh, Kátirjí-zádeh and -other robbers, who held their meeting at Háji-bábá’s, an old rogue. The robbers, -on being informed by Evliya of the Páshá’s being near, made off, and Evliya was -kept by Háji-bábá until rescued by his people and other armed men of the Páshá’s -suite, with whom he shared the rich presents which he forced out of Háji-bábá -upon taking an oath that he would not betray this den of robbers. Evliya again -joined the Páshá at the village of Hossein Aghá.</i>)</p></blockquote> - -<p>The village of Hossein Aghá is situated in the district of Jubúk-owassá on a -high hill. This is the pilgrimage of Ghazí Hossein of Malatia the father of Sídí -Battál. Where there are more than an hundred Dervishes Begtáshí versed in -Arabic and Persian knowledge. The tomb is surrounded with golden candlesticks, -Koráns, &c. There are two places of religious exercise for the summer and -for the winter. The valleys of Jubúk, Yebán, and Merbút are at the foot of this -convent: Every year a Mevlúd or birth-feast is held here, when forty to fifty -thousand men assemble to celebrate the feast of Hossein Sídí Batál’s father, one -of the descendants of Imám Hossein, and who like him was killed by the hands -of the Infidels. I gave to the Dervishes ten piastres for alms, immolated three -victims and received the Sheikh’s benediction amidst the general shout of Allah! -At the foot of the hill I met my Lord the Páshá with whom during ten days -I overran the plain of Jubúk, as if I were going on conscription. This plain -comprehends seven districts, and seventy villages. We spent ten more days on -the plain of Yebán, containing an hundred cultivated villages belonging to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span> -jurisdiction of Angora, and ten days more in the jurisdiction of Jorba of eighty-six -villages. We passed a month in these three plains and celebrated Nevrúz (the -spring’s commencement) near Angora. The weather now was mild, but we were -all exhausted from the continual fatigue of loading and unloading heavy loads. -At last we returned to the village of Hossein in the commencement of the year -1058 (1648). From hence we marched in seven hours to the north amidst -cultivated villages and arrived at Angora.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of Angora.</i></h3> - -<p>On the day that our quartermasters entered the town with the tails it was -declared to them in the court of justice, that the Páshá would not be allowed to -enter the fortress on account of his intentions being known to be those of a rebel, -but that in consequence of the great number of friends and clients in the town, he -would be well treated and lodged there for three days. We entered with a great -Istikbál (procession of meeting) and were saluted by the firing of twenty guns. I -was lodged in the house of Keder-zádeh and went straight to the convent of -Hájí-bairám, where I read the Korán, and fulfilled the vow I had made when -in the hands of the robbers, distributing to the Dervishes an hundred piastres -of the money obtained at the village of Bálik-hissár from the robbers.</p> - -<p>Angora was conquered by Yakúbsháh, the Prince of Kútahia of the Germián -family and by his Vezir Hezár-dínar, and then by Sultán Orkhán. If Angora is -viewed from the village of Erkiksú, which is a journey’s distance from the north, -it appears a brilliant place; for the houses rising one behind the other, similarly to -Buda on the Danube, makes it look like a ship of transport (Maúna) which has -set up its trees and adorned its head. Buda, Ván and Angora are the three first -fortresses of the Empire: its name (Engúrí) is Persian, given from the quantity of -grapes (Engúr) which are found here. It is said to have been built by a Byzantine -Emperor, and employed forty thousand workmen for seven years, who each day -received forty nuts and a loaf apiece. It is also called the leafy castle (Motabbak), -because its different parts cover one another like leaves of a tree, and the -castle of the chains (Selasil) because the Emperor Heraclius surrounded it with -seven chains on the birth year of the Prophet. The Mogols call it Ankra; the -Tatars, Kermen Ankra; the Germans, Constantinople (!) the Turks, Aidín Karí, -Unkúr and Ungorú. In the Imperial Registers it is spelled Ankra. It is the seat -of a Sanjak Beg in the province of Anatoli, and has been given many times as -living (Arpalik) to Vezírs of three tails. The khass of the Páshá is two hundred -and sixty three thousand four hundred aspers, fourteen ziámets, and two hundred -and fifty seven timárs, an Alai-beg (Colonel) Cherí-beg (Captain) and Yúzbáshí<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> -(Lieutenants). The Zaims and Timariots with the Jebelle make three thousand -armed men. The Súbashís depending from Angora are, those of the town, -that of Mertátova, of Yebánava, of Jubúkova, and of Jorba, which annually -import forty thousand piastres. The Judge is a Molla of five hundred aspers, -whose revenues may be calculated at twenty purses a year. There are also -a Sheikh-ul-islám or Muftí, a Nakíb-ul-eshraf, or head of the Emírs, Seids and -Sherífs (the relations of the Prophet), a Serdár of the Janissaries, a Kiaya-yerí -of the Sipáhís, a Náíb of the town and a Mohtessib (provost and lieutenant of -police) the commanding officers of the Jebejí and Topjí, a Dizdár (commander of the -castle) and a garrison of an hundred men. The castle is situated on a high mountain, -mocking all assaults, rising in four natural terraces, so that there is a distance -of three hundred paces from one enclosure to the other; the height of each wall -is sixty cubits and the breadth ten royal cubits; the foundations are all built on -vaults. The castle forms an oblong square from east to west. It has four iron-gates -one behind the other towards the west, each strengthened behind by iron -cages. These iron cages or gratings are thrown before the gates in time of sieges, -the bars are of the thickness of an arm. The gate on the extremity of the fortress -looking to the Horse market opens to the west, on the upper part of it are suspended -the arms of old knights, and the bones of a whale. The guards keep -watch here day and night. If the commander leaves the castle the garrison are -empowered to kill him, or at least to exile him for ever. Abaza, the rebel, besieged -this town with an hundred thousand men, and took possession of the lower town, -but wounded by a cannon shot from the upper castle, he was obliged to return -to Erzerúm; the commander ever since has been prohibited from leaving the castle, -and the watchmen all night long cry, Yegdir-allah, One is God! It has no ditch on -one side on account of the rocks, and it is not easily to be attacked by mines -because its quarters rise one behind the other. The four enclosures have eighteen -hundred battlements, and its circumference is four thousand paces. On the east -side is a place of pilgrimage situated on a hill, it is called Khizrlik; this hill looks -over the town, which is of no consequence as it is not within gun-shot distance. -The inner castle is defended by sixty-eight guns, but none of them are large. The -houses number six hundred and are all terraced, but have neither gardens nor -vineyards; the old mosque was formerly a convent. The lower town was surrounded -with a wall by Ahmed Páshá against the rebels. It has four gates, and -its circumference on the three sides, on which it does not join the citadel, is six -thousand paces. On the east side of the superior castle you descend into the -valley of Khizrlik by a road leading down for fetching water. In the inner castle -are cisterns and magazines; but in the lower town are no cisterns, because water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> -is in abundance, there being an hundred and seventy fountains, three thousand -wells, seventy-six mosques, those of Ahmed Páshá and Hájí Beirám the saint, -having been built by the great Sinán, fifteen convents of Dervishes with mihráb -(mosques) the greatest of them is that of Hájí Bairám, where three hundred -Dervishes of his order follow the rules of their founder. Their first patron is -Khoja Abd-ul-Kádír Jeilání, by whom they ascend to the prophet; in Rúmelí -they are called also Hamzeví from Sheikh Hamza. There is likewise a fine convent -of Mevlevís founded by Ahmed Páshá. The colleges are richly endowed, -three houses for lectures on tradition, an hundred and eighty schools for boys, two -hundred baths, seventy palaces with gardens; all these buildings are of brick not -stone, and covered with earth instead of with bricks, six thousand six hundred and -sixty houses, and two hundred sebíl-kháneh or establishments for distributing -water. The shops are two thousand, and there is an elegant bezestán with four -gates with chains; the market places are almost all on elevated spots; the coffee -houses and barber’s-shops are always crowded; the public places and streets are -paved with white stones. Its divines, poets, and learned and pious men are -innumerable, although it is a Turkish town, it counts more than two thousand boys -and girls who know the Korán by heart; some thousand also know by heart the -Mohammedieh, or works on the Mohammedan religion by Yázijí-zadeh Mohammed -Efendí. Some of its inhabitants have the repute of performing miracles like -Abd-ur-rahman Efendí, a pious man, who is free of four enticements, viz. hair, -brows, beard and eye-lashes; he is descended from Hájí Bairám’s family, who had -the same advantage.</p> - - -<h3><i>Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint.</i></h3> - -<p>In his youth he was once invited by a cunning woman, who in order to seduce -the Saint, with whom she was in love, began to praise his hair, beard, brows and -eye-lashes. The Saint retired into a corner and prayed to God that he might be -delivered of these four inducements to lust, and become of an ugly form; he then -returned without a hair into the woman’s presence, who shocked at his ugliness -had him turned out of doors by her maidens. Hence the descendants of the -Saint by his daughter actually wear short beards (Kosseh).</p> - -<p>The rich inhabitants of the town wear Ferrájes of sable, those of the middle -class, Serhaddís of cloth and Contoshes, the workmen Ferrájes of white linen, the -Ulemas, of wool, and the women also of wool of different colours. The climate -and temperature being mild the inhabitants are fair with red faces.</p> - - -<h3><i>The Eatables and Products.</i></h3> - -<p>The calves’ and sheep’s feet of Angora are the counter part of those of Kútahia;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span> -the salted flesh (Pássdirma) of its goats has an excellent perfume. These goats -called Teftekgechí are of a brilliant whiteness; of the hair is made the soft -(Shalloon) of different, colours which is worn by Monarchs. If the wool is cut -by scissors it becomes coarse, but if pulled out it is as soft and as fine as the silk -of Eyúb (Job). The poor goats, when the hair is pulled out in that way, raise -lamentable cries; to avoid this some wash them with a mixture of chalk and ashes, -by which they are enabled to pull out the hair without difficulty or giving pain; -thus the poor goats are stripped naked. The hair is then worked into Shalloons, -and both men and women are busy at making or selling them. The Franks tried -to transport the goats of Angora into their own country, but God be praised! they -degenerated into common goats, and the stuff wove from their hair was no Súf -(Shalloon). They then took the hair of the Angora-goat and tried to work it into -Sof, but were never able to give it the true lustre (Máj). They now make of it -for their monks a kind of black shalloon, which however has neither colour nor -lustre. The inhabitants of Angora say that the exclusive working of fine shalloon -is granted to them by the miracles of Hájí Bairám, and the water and air. Indeed -the sof (Shalloon) of Angora is the most famous in the world; the chalk also of -Angora is renowned. Its inhabitants make great journies to Frengistán and Egypt -to sell their Shalloons. There are a great number of Jews, but few Greeks and -Copts. The inhabitants are a goodnatured hospitable people. It is an incomparable -town, which may God preserve till the end of time in the hands of the Ottomans!</p> - -<p>The day I entered Angora I visited the tomb of Hájí Bairám, recited the Korán -and then returned to my lodgings where I soon fell asleep. In a dream I saw a -man with a yellow beard, honey-coloured cowl and a turban of twelve folds on his -head, who upbraided me for having visited Hájí Bairám’s tomb and passed by his. -I asked, who he was? and he said, “Didst thou not call on Sárí Sáltik Dedeh, -when in thy youth thou performed prayer in the Convent of the Wrestlers at Constantinople -in Sultán Murad’s presence? didst thou not say that I was known -here by the name of Er Sultán? I am lying here under a thick cupola near the -wood market, where thou shouldest visit me and give me joy with a fátihah. I will -send to-morrow morning a man of my resemblance, who shall lead thee to my -tomb.” I awoke, said my prayers, and was waiting, when a man came of the form -of him I saw in my dream, and told me, that Er Sultán had appeared to him in a -dream and had commanded him to show me his burying place. This man had a -radiant face, and his voice was as hollow as if it came from underground. We -passed through eleven quarters of the town and visited in passing all the tombs of -Saints, which I shall mention by and by, if it pleases God! At last there appeared -on the western side of the wood-market a small cupola, which my companion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span> -pointed out to me, saying, “This is the tomb of Er Sultán.” Whilst I was -looking at it on my right side, he disappeared on my left, and I was at a loss to -know what had become of him and fancied that he must have walked through a -door covered with felt which was near me. I opened it, walked in, and saw it was -a Búza-house full of riot. Ashamed of having got into such society I left the -room immediately and made the best of my way to the cupola which had been -shown to me. There I laid my face on the threshold and prayed to the Saint, -saying, that I had arrived by his blessing, and begged he would not let me depart void -of benediction in this and the other world. I now commenced the recital of the -Korán, and sheltering myself under the green Súf with which the coffin was -covered, said, “Protection, protection, O Er Sultán!” I then fell asleep and -sweated to such a degree that when I woke my clothes were wet. Er Sultán appeared -to me again and I begged that he would not let me go hence void of -benediction. He replied, “Thou wilt not be void of it, because thou art a Háfiz -(knowing the Korán by heart) and a lover of the Saints (Evliya) whose tombs thou -always visitest. I led thee myself to this place, I am a perfect leader (Murshid -Kámil), thy path is straight. Be merciful to the poor and weak, and tell thy -Páshá not to molest the inhabitants of Angora. God will grant to thee travel and -good health, and in thy last moments faith. Eat, speak, sleep and know little, but -do a great deal, for actions are necessary to discover the way to God, because He -hath said in the Korán, ‘Good words ascend, and good works exalt.’ Honour thy -parents, and the Sheikhs (Pír), and thy end shall be happy. Say now a fátihah -with this intent.” Here I was awoke by a noise and voices saying, “Is there no -tomb-keeper?” I arose from beneath the cover of the coffin and to the question -of the visitors, “Whether I was the tomb-keeper?” replied, “Yes!” When they -were gone I returned home shedding many tears, and related my vision to the -Páshá, who also related to me a similar dream that he had had. He instantly -gave orders that all the Sárija and Segbán should deliver up their arms and leave -in quiet the inhabitants of Angora. The Páshá had had some idea of shutting -himself up in the town and declaring it in a state of rebellion, but he immediately -abandoned it after these visions. I then made it a duty to myself to visit every -day, during my stay at Angora, the tombs of Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán and -others of the Saints, which I am now about to mention.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pilgrimages.</i></h3> - -<p>Sheikh Hájí Bairám, the pole and column of sanctity, was born on the bank of -the river Chepúl in the village of Solkoi and was the disciple of Sheikh Hámed. -At the time when Sultán Báyazíd I. was at Adrianople, Sheikh Bairám preached<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span> -there in the old mosque, and the pulpit which he ascended is still shown. Different -Sheikhs who tried to ascend this pulpit could never utter a word, because none -were worthy to preach after him in the same place. After his death, which happened -in Báyazíd’s reign, he was buried beneath a high cupola in the inner castle -of Angora. Sheikh Er Sultán, the leader of divine truth, the discoverer of -mysteries, called Mahmúd by his proper name, was born at Angora, and reposes -beneath a small cupola in the wood market. East of Angora on a high mountain -is the pilgrimage of Hízr, a pleasure place from which a fine view of the town is -enjoyed. This Saint was the disciple of Sheikh Hossám-ud-dín, and being imprisoned -at Angora he gave the order one evening to be buried the next day, and in -the morning, without any body having been near him, he was found washed, -perfumed, and ready for burial. Sheikh Kátib Saláh-ud-dín was a great astronomer, -a second Pythagoras. There are a great number of other Saints, which I do not -mention, as I could not visit their tombs during my short stay.</p> - -<p>The day of our departure being fixed, I made myself as light as possible, by -giving away a part of what I had taken from the robbers’ den in alms, and the rest -as a pawn to the master of the house where I lodged and got ready with seven -Mamlúcs and one light pack horse. In the morning I heard an uproar and riot by -which heaven and earth was thrown into confusion. Some were exclaiming that -they were satisfied with the Páshá, others that he was a rebel for having united -with Várvár Páshá, and that it was necessary to obey the Emperor’s command. -In short Mustafa, one of the Emperor’s Kapijí, had arrived with forty -of his companions; they had shut the gates of the castle and proclaimed a -general call to arms (Nefír-a’ám). Most fortunately the Páshá, who had been -terrified by a disastrous dream, was gone incognito to visit the tomb of Sídí -Battál’s father, and could not therefore be found in his palace, which was searched -in every part by the Kapijí. The Páshá of course did not re-enter the town but -repaired to the village of Erkeksú, which is to the north of it, and sent a -letter to his Kiaya to request him to send his troops. In the mean time the -Páshá not having been found the gates were opened and a proclamation issued, -that all who belonged to the Páshá were to leave the town instantly; I therefore -took leave of the master of my house and Hájí Bairám and Er Sultán, and arrived -after seven hours’ march at the village of Erkeksú consisting of two hundred -houses and a mosque at the foot of a rock. Seven hours further on we arrived at -the great place Istanozí, with a judge of one hundred and fifty aspers, in the -district of Mortátova, bordering on a valley, on each side of which are towering -rocks; it has a thousand houses without gardens, a mosque, a bath and market: -the river Erkek flows through it. This place had formerly two great gates at either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> -end, which were destroyed in the time of Murad III. by the rebel Korayazijí; if -these two gates were restored it would be impossible to take the place, because -it is situated between two walls of high rocks on which eagles and vultures build -their nests, but to which man scarcely dares to lift up his eyes. These rocks are as -tremendous as those of Ván, Shabín and Márdín, some of them are excavated -below like Mount Bisútún and some are shaped above like dragons, lions and -elephants. The inhabitants are for the most part Armenians. About a thousand -looms are employed in working Súf. This place being enclosed by two rocks the -air is very warm. The Armenian girls here are famed for their beauty. There -are caverns which can hold a thousand horses. Formerly an old castle stood here -on a rock.</p> - -<p>The day we entered the town there was a great conflux of men to see tumblers -and wrestlers exhibit their tricks; Istanoz and the town of Kodoz in Anatoli being -the places where tumblers and wrestlers assemble to make bets. They stretch the -rope from one rock to the other and place watchmen at each end, that enemies -may not cut it when they are dancing on it. The rocks and the valley beneath -are crowded with spectators and on both sides of the river, which flows through -the valley, tents are pitched for the spectators. We witnessed during three days -the tricks of seventy six tumblers, who were followed by three hundred scholars, -to whom they gave lessons in their art.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>The Description of the tricks, and an account of two letters from and to Vávár -Páshá, are here omitted.</i>)</p></blockquote> - -<p>Having received the letters of My Lord the Páshá I passed Hossein Ghází and -Bálik-hissár, halted at the village of Sárí Alán, and further on passed Kala’ajik, -Sheikh Shámí, Akche-koyúnli, and the river Kizil Irmák with great ease at -Kárdlar, heard that Várvár Páshá had left the station of Túrhál, and met him -further on to the eastward at Gergezár. I first went as the rule requireth to his -kiaya, who conducted me to the presence of the Páshá. He was seated in a tent, -like Solomon surrounded by many thousand Sárija and Segbán. I kissed the -ground and delivered the letter in the usual form. Having looked into my face -and said, “Art not thou Evliya Chelebí, who at the mosque of Aya Sofia recited -in the night Kadr, the Korán in eight hours? and who was received by Sultán -Murad amongst the pages of the Kíldár.” Having replied, “Yes,” he asked -further in what office I was to the Páshá. I said, that on the way to Erzerúm I -was head of the Muezzins, but that he afterwards made me clerk of the Custom-house -and sent me three times into Persia, and that now I was his Imám and -intimate companion. The servants having been ordered to withdraw he called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> -the Diván Efendí and read the letter. “It is a pity,” said he, “that your Páshá -did not with such an army shut himself up at Angora; he might have played the -devil there, and by this glorious deed have hung his sword in the skies (like that of -Orion).” Rejoiced, however, at the number of our troops he gave me an hundred -zechins, a rosary of corals and a watch set with jewels. I was also invested with a -magnificent sable pelisse and recommended as a guest to the Khazinedár.</p> - -<p>The same day news arrived that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and seven Vezírs -had taken post at the bridge of Osmánjik and the rocks of Sárimshik, where they -were entrenching themselves; and that Hossein the Páshá of Amasia had closed the -pass (Púl) of Diriklí and carried the population away to the mountains. Upon this -news Várvár Alí Páshá directed his march straight to the passage of the Kizil -Irmák. Our march was, from Kiraz to Dánkaza seven hours, to Bardáklí-bábá -seven hours and to the river Kizil Irmák six hours. The passage of the river was -effected in the best order, without the least harm happening to any body. We -halted at Airak which lies north of the Kizil Irmák in the Sanjak of Kangrú; it -has an hundred houses and a mosque. We here visited the tomb of Mohammed -Sháh Dedeh, who came with Hájí Begtásh from Khorassan to the court of -Bayazid I., a large hospitable convent of an hundred Dervishes Begtáshí. I -witnessed the Páshá perform his visit to the tomb with a devotion and a faith -outshining that of many preachers from the pulpit. The tomb is surrounded with -censers, vases for rose-water, lamps and candelabra. Every year the Sheikh of -this convent kills a horse and abandons the carcase to the eagles and vultures -of the rocks, who live upon it till the next year. The Sheikh has bred eagles -instead of falcons for hawking beasts of all kind. From hence we marched for -three hours along the bank of the Kizil Irmák to the village of Tordúk, in the -territory of Kánghrí. At the convent of Hassám Efendí a great repast was given -to the Páshá. Three hours further on we came to the convent of Kúm-bábá, and -then we entered the Keskin of the Turcomans in the land of Kánghrí. Having -overran it for ten days we halted on the eleventh at the village of Sálí. I -perceived that the army was preparing for battle and learned that spies had -brought the news, that Koprilí Mohammed Páshá, who had been named commander -against Várvár, was ready to give him battle on the following day. The -troops having armed during the night, the Páshá put himself in the morning at -the head of six thousand men of light troops, and pushed on for seven hours -towards the kiblah. Here the two armies engaged and that of Koprilí was -entirely routed; a great number were killed and the rest dispersed or made -prisoners. Amongst the last was Mohammed Koprilí Páshá himself, the Páshá -of Amasia, Kor Hossein, and the Páshá of Kara Shehr, both of two tails, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span> -were obliged to walk on foot with chains on their feet and blocks on their necks, -along with the tails of Várvár. Such is the state of the world, that these great -and powerful men were now in the power of the Sárija and Segbán, who tortured -and killed their men before their eyes and the executioners flung their swords -over their necks. In brief a Vezír (Koprilí) and five Begler-begs were bound -to the poles of Várvár’s tent, who elated with this victory declared now more -than ever open rebellion, collected all kinds of rabble, wrote letters to Begs and -Begler-begs enforcing them to come and join him with their troops, and in fact -collected an army of thirty-seven thousand men. When we arrived at the village -of Búzoghlán, in the Sanjak of Kanghrú, I waited on him wishing him joy of his -victory, and begging he would despatch me with the letters expected. I endeavoured -to persuade him to be mild and merciful, and to pardon and set at liberty -his prisoners, according to the text, “O God! Thou art all-pardoning, Thou -likest pardon, pardon me.” He however remained obstinate, saying, I should see in -a few days what would happen when his friends little Chaúsh Páshá, Ipshír Páshá -and Shehsuvár Oghlí Páshá should arrive to join him. He was an open frank -man, but extremely simple and of little judgment, and therefore blindly believed -in the assurances of these Páshás; and being overjoyed with the news he had -received from them, he despatched me with letters to my master, presenting -me with an hundred piastres, a completely caparisoned horse from Koprilí’s stable, -and a complete dress.</p> - -<p>From Yúz Oghlán in the Sanjak of Kánghru I rode for three days trusting in -God, left Angora on my right and met with the Páshá on the plain of Múrtát. -The Páshá hearing of Várvár’s blind confidence glowed with anger and said, “He -shall see it, the blockhead (Potúr).” He then gave me Ipshír Páshá’s letter, -which he had sent him to read, and I saw it was full of flattery and deceit. The -Páshá was about to answer this letter, when a Khassekí and Kapijí-bashí arrived -with Kiátib Alí Chelebí, the Khazinedár of Seyavúsh Aghá Kiátib Alí Chelebí. -The Imperial rescript was instantly read, and contained the most positive orders -to join till the first of Jemází-ul-akhir the united troops of Ipshír, Chaúsh, Bákí, -Ketgáj and Sídí Páshá against Várvár, whose head or the Páshá’s was required. -If he refused to comply all his property was to be confiscated, and his children -and relations killed; but under the supposition of ready obedience the Governorship -of Egypt was conferred upon him. The Páshá made immediate obeisance, -ordered the tails to proceed, gave to the Khassekí a purse for the expenses of the -road, and recommended him as a guest to his kiaya. The next day the Cháhnegír -(head carver) of Várvár arrived from Constantinople with a Khattí-sheríf of the -following tenor:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span> “My Lálá, (Governor) thy fault is pardoned, but the rebellion of -Defterdár Oghlí, who wished to put himself in possession of Erzerúm and Angora, -is evident. His head or yours is demanded. If you send the first the Governorship -of Egypt is assured to you.” The Páshá remained dumb at the sight of this -Khattí-sheríf and instantly despatched me back with that which he had received -to Várvár.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>Here follows the relation of Várvár’s complete defeat by Ipshír Páshá by whom -he was ensnared; occupying three sheets of the original.</i>)</p></blockquote> - -<p>Evliya at last, afraid for his head, waited on Ipshír Páshá and asked for letters, -that he might return as he came. “Here,” said Ipshír showing Várvár’s dead -body, “is the man from whom you may ask your expedition.” Evliya begged -to be spared as he was no rebel and no Sanjak Beg. Ipshír Páshá laughed and said, -“What art thou doing at thy master’s; wert thou not previously with Melek Ahmed -Páshá?” “By God,” I, poor Evliya, answered, “I am the common servant and -joint subject of two Vezírs, whom I accompany alternately as they come into high -offices for the pleasure of travelling. Defterdár Zádeh must now be removed -from office at this place, and your Excellency is most likely to go as Governor to -Damascus or Baghdád, in which case I attach myself to your service.” “No,” -said Ipshír, “go and follow Melek Ahmed.” “Well,” I, poor Evliya, replied, -“there is no difference between you three. Is not the mother of my present -master the nearest relation of Melek Páshá’s and your mother?” “Look here,” -said the Páshá, “he reminds me of my relationship with Mohammed Páshá, in -order to become the mediator of peace between us.” I got up, kissed his hand -and begged he would give me a letter to My Lord the Páshá, to give him some -solace in the present state of his affairs. He ordered me a tent, seventy secchins, a -horse (being an extremely avaricious and low born Abázá) and a letter, with -which I got under way.</p> - -<p>From Cherkesh (where Várvár’s defeat had happened) I rode for eight hours -to Dúlúshja, a village of an hundred and fifty houses with gardens and a mosque; -eight hours further to Mestibeg, a village of an hundred houses, a ziámet; and -nine hours further to the village of Alí Zaím, a Súbashilik in the plain of -Múrtát, a ziámet of an hundred houses, where I met the Páshá, who had heard -of the defeat of Várvár, Kor Hossein, and Hájí Oghlí, but knew not as yet of their -deaths, which I related to him as it happened three days ago. The Páshá read -Ipshír’s letter, and hearing at the same time that Bákí Páshá had left him and -joined Ipshír’s camp, he became very melancholy and prepared for attacking -Ipshír, who from Cherkesh moved towards Karamania by the side of Keskin. -The Páshá followed him at three day’s distance, took a great deal of booty of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span> -baggages of Várvár, Koprilí and Kor Hossein and arrived in three days at the -river Sakaria. At the village of Merja in the district of Begbazárí the Diván Efendí -of Várvár Páshá was overtaken with forty-three thousand zecchins and seven -purses of money. He confessed to ten thousand zecchins besides and a sum -deposited at Angora of forty purses of money, after which confession his head -was cut off, and sent to the Porte as being that of a rebel. According to the -assignation of Khalíl, the Divání Efendí, on Hassan at Angora in whose hands the -money was deposited, Alaja Atlí Aghá was despatched with three hundred horsemen -to take possession of it. We marched along the bank of the Sakaria -river to the village Shikenjí Ahmed Aghá in the district of Ayásh, a village -surrounded with gardens. We passed the village of Istanos and after seven hours -reached Erkeksú at last arriving at Angora, where Atlí Aghá was lodged in -the house of Hassan, from whom he demanded the money deposited by the -beheaded Diván Efendí, and I lodged with my old friend Kedr-zádeh who returned -to me all my things and effects, which I had left in his hands. The next day -Hassan Chelebí was obliged to pay the sum mentioned by the beheaded Diván -Efendí and to accompany us in irons. My friend, Kedr-zádeh made me a present -of two pack-horses to facilitate the transport of my things. We left Angora, -passed as before through Istanos, then during eight hours along the pass of Ayásh; -Ayásh is a foundation belonging to the two holy cities of Mecca and Medina. It -is a jurisdiction of an hundred and fifty aspers, and contains a thousand houses -and ten mosques; the castle is in ruins, but there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí; the -air is heavy because the ground is uneven. I here visited the tomb of Emír-dedeh, -and on the opposite side that of Sheikh Bokhara buried under a cupola on -the mountain.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazári.</i></h3> - -<p>Dinár-hezár, the vezír of Yakúb Sháh of the Germián family, having conquered -this town gave it the name Germián-hezárí. Once a week there is a famous market -chiefly of goats-hair spun and woven. It is now the Khass of the Muftí of -Constantinople who appoints the Súbashí. The judge, appointed with an hundred -and fifty aspers, may easily collect seven purses. There is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, -but no Dizdár and garrison, the castle being too small to hold any. At the foot of -it lies the town distributed over two valleys, and divided into twenty quarters. -There are forty one mosques, three thousand and sixty seven elegant houses, all -of mortar, but the roofs of wood, a room for reading the Korán, another for lectures -on tradition, but no stone built colleges as in other towns, and seventy schools. -There are more than seven hundred men and boys who know by heart the Korán,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span> -and the Mohammedieh, a Muftí and Nakíb-ul-eshráf; the inhabitants are for the -most part Ulemás. This being a Turkish town the people are chiefly Oghúz, that -is to say good men of the old Turkish simplicity. There are seven Kháns, pleasant -baths, six hundred shops in which precious articles are found, but no bezestán of -stone. On the bank of the torrent, which flows through the butcheries, a market -is held every week; this torrent falls into the river, which runs below the town, -and with this river into the Sakaria. The roads are strewn with sand and not -paved. The young men are fine, and the girls very retired and modest, but not -pretty. The gardens of Beg-bazárí are numerous; among its products is a particular -melon much distinguished for its sweetness; the inhabitants make of it a -Zerdeh (dish) with cinnamon and cloves, sweet as the Zerdeh which was first invented -by Moavia; there is also a large green pear four or five of which go to an -occa. Every year some thousand of them are sent in boxes to Constantinople as -presents, such sweet pears are found but in Persia in the town of Nessú and are -like the pears called Melje in the town of Bár. Black barley is produced here, -which must be given with caution to horses, and there is a great quantity of rice. -In the town is the tomb of Az-dedeh.</p> - -<p>We had remained here three days when letters arrived for the Páshá from my -uncles, Melek-zádeh and Abd-ur-rahím, giving notice of the death of my father, -and that all his goods remained in my step-mother’s hands. They begged leave -from the Páshá for me to make a journey to Constantinople in order to arrange -my affairs, after which I might return to him. I received three letters from my -relations with the same news, which I showed to the Páshá, who showed me those -he had received. He gave me leave to go on condition I would come back again, -called the Kiaya and Khazinedár, gave me five hundred dollars, two horses, -and two slaves, a fine tent and three mules in addition to those which I had received -as a present from the late Várvár Alí Páshá. With seven Mamlúks and eight -servants attached to me, I took leave of the Páshá and set out at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir -in the year 1058 (1648) from Begbazárí for Constantinople.</p> - - -<h3><i>Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople.</i></h3> - -<p>We marched nine hours to the north through cultivated villages and open -meadows to the village of Sárí-beg. Here a gigantic wall is seen, which is said -to have been moved by the miraculous power of Hají Begtásh, and the spot is -shown where he sat upon the wall. It has no foundation and therefore it is evident -it must have been moved hither. Seven hours further is the village of Kostek-beg -of an hundred houses in a ground intersected by valleys. The inhabitants are -free from all duties. At the time of the rebellion of Kara Yazijí, Seid-ul-Arab,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span> -Kalender Oghlí, Jennet Oghlí, Delí Hassan and Sejiáh Oghlí in the time of -Ahmed I. they assailed a great caraván here, which they plundered, killing more -than two thousand men. The road then remained blocked up for some time, till -Nassif Páshá built here a great khán and transported the inhabitants hither. There -is a mosque, a khán, an imáret and a bath. The raisins of this place are celebrated -for sour preserves. The khán has no equal in the whole of Anatolia unless -it be the Khán of Katífa and Sa’asa’a in the neighbourhood of Damascus. The -stable holds two thousand horses, there is besides a stable for camels, and all the -buildings are covered with lead. Eight hours further to the north we arrived at -Nállí Khán, a small affranchised mussulman village of an hundred houses in a valley, -governed by a Mutevellí of Nassif Páshá. This khán is also his foundation and is -built like that of Kostek-beg Khán, having an hundred and fifty chimneys with a -kitchen like that of Keikavús. Travellers receive each a loaf in a brass plate, a dish -of soup and a candle. In seven hours more we reached the village of Turbelí Koilik, -which in the harsh language of the Turks is pronounced Torbalí Koiluk. Akshems-ud-dín -is buried in this village. The castle, built by the Greek Emperors, was -conquered by Ghazí Osmán in the year 712 (1312). It has a Kiaya-yerí and -Serdár but no Dizdár. This place is surrounded on both sides by rocks from -which the water of life flows through fir-wood pipes. Though its inhabitants are -Turks, it is yet a sweet town of two thousand houses, all covered with fir-wood, -eighteen mosques and eight quarters. The houses are overhung by the chalk -cliffs, which from time to time fall down upon them, without doing the least harm -to men or mice. The number of the houses, immediately overhung by the rocks, -is two hundred, there is no college or house of tradition but twenty schools for -boys; in the market-place are three kháns covered with brick, a bath, a good -number of mills and seventy-five shops in which saddle-bags and horse-cloths -are sold. No Jews can inhabit this place, because in it they die instantly.</p> - - -<h3><i>Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín.</i></h3> - -<p>He was born at Damascus and derives his genealogy from Abúbekr, which was -proved by the absence of one of the joints in his finger, because all descendants -from him are born with that defect. He had conversed with Sheháb-ud-dín -Sehrverdí, who is buried in the castle of Baghdád, and at Angora with Hájí -Bairám. He accompanied Mohammed II. to the conquest of Constantinople, -and foretold the day when the town would be conquered. He and his whole -family lie buried here. It was he who discovered the tomb of Eyyúb and on -whose admonition they dug on the spot indicated by him. He composed many -volumes of books and was in medicine a second Lokman. His son Ahmed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span> -Chelebí is the author of Yússúf and Zúleikha, one of the most renowned of poems -in the Turkish language, he did not accept of the directorship, which his father -intended for him and which after his death devolved on Sa’ad Allah, another -son of his, and who is buried near his father. Sheikh Núrallah his third son -went to Brússa to finish his studies and killed himself accidentally, his pen-knife -entering his stomach. Sheikh Chelebí Emrillah did not follow his father’s manner -of life, and died of the gout; he composed an historical work. Sheikh -Nasrollah his fifth son travelled for seven years in Persia and is buried at -Tabríz; the Persians visit his tomb, and some erroneously believe him to be -the son of Shems Tabrízí who is buried in the town of Khúí, whither he walked -with his head cut off, carrying it in his hand. Sheikh Mohammed Núrolhúda -the son of Akshems-ud-dín; his father having touched his mother’s womb when -she was pregnant with him, she was immediately delivered on the salute given -to the child, which returned it saying, “Esselám aleikum.” This ecstatic child -(Mejzúb) when grown up could discern in the mosque those who would go to -heaven from those who would go to hell. He is buried in the village of Evlek, -which was given to him by Sultán Mohammed. Sheikh Mohammed Hamdollah, -the abovesaid second son of Akshems-ud-dín, was also spoken to by his father -when in his mother’s womb. At eight years old he was already author -of a Diván. He composed Leíla and Mejnún, and Yússúf and Zúleikha, which -has no equal in the Turkish language. He died when sixty-six years old. Among -a great number of treatises he wrote one on physiognomy which is much esteemed. -His son Mohammed Chelebí was a great divine and in caligraphy a second Yakút -Mostea’assemí and Ibn Mokla. The tomb of Sheikh Abd-ul-kádir, the son of -Sa’ad Allah; he is buried outside that of his ancestor. Sheikh Abd-ur-rahím one of -Akshems-ud-dín’s followers, who lived forty years after him; he is the author -of the work Wahdet-námeh (book of unity).</p> - -<p>We remained here one day and then travelled seven hours to the north to -Taráklí, built by the Greek Princes of Brússa and conquered by Osmán. The -judge is appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers; there are fifteen hundred -houses in a valley all covered with brick, eleven mihrábs, seven quarters, a bath, -five kháns, six schools and two hundred shops; this town is called Taraklí because -spoons and combs (Tarak) are made here from the box-trees which cover the -neighbouring mountains. These spoons and combs are sent into Arabia and Persia. -The torrent which flows through the village falls into the river Hármen and with -it into the sea. Eight hours to the north is the castle of Kíva, properly Kekiva, -a small castle for the sheep of a Greek Princess. It is the foundation consecrated -to the famous bridge of Sultán Bayazíd II. here built over the Sakaria.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span> -It was formerly a large town, but ruined in the reign of Sultán Murad IV. by the -inundation of the Sakaria, it consisted of three hundred houses, a mosque, a bath, -three kháns, and seven schools for boys. It is now situated at an arrow’s shot distance -from the river, and has a large khán covered with brick and twenty shops near -it. The sour preserve of raisins and the melons of the district are famous, -two melons are a load for a horse. The river Sakaria, which flows here under the -bridge, comes from the town of Beg-bazarí and falls into the Black Sea near Irva. -In this place reside a Serdár, Kiaya-yerí and Mutevellí, or administrator of the -Wakf. Burhán, a companion of Osmán I. is buried here. We passed the bridge -and to the north along the banks of Sakaria through the great forest, called Agháj-denizí -(the sea of trees), a den of wild beasts and robbers, where many strangers -have been lost. The trees are high firs and linden, which intercept the rays -of the sun, and perfume the brain with their sweet scent.</p> - -<p>These mountains are inhabited by some thousand unmerciful Turks, who live by -cutting wood and loading it in ships, and sometimes by cutting passengers and -unloading caravans. This forest extends through four Sanjaks, viz: Brússa, Ismíd, -and Bolí, and a month is necessary to make the tour of it. In some places it is cut -through like the road to Kíva. Three hours from Kíva we came to the castle of the -shepherds (Chobán Kala’assí), a small castle towering to the skies. It is here -that the shepherds of Princess Kekeva dwelled and took toll from those who -passed; the passage being straightened between the mountains and the river Sakaria, -they obliged every body to pay. We passed through it and continuing our way to -the West along the bank of the Sakaria for seven hours we reached Sabánja, a -cultivated place which has been already described on the way to Erzerúm. From -hence we came to Nicomedia, also described in the journey to Erzerúm. We passed -Herke, Gebize, the tomb of Gemiklí, Alí-bábá, Pendík, Kartál, the bridge of -the Bostánji-bashí, and Kádíkoí, and arrived at the end of Jemazí-ul-akhir, 1058 -(1648), in the great town of Scutarí, and at last, praise be to God! at Constantinople, -with all my baggage. I kissed the hand of my mother and the eyes of my -sisters, then mounted again on horseback to fulfil my vow by visiting the tomb of -Eyyúb, where I immolated and distributed a victim, and returned home. In a dream -I saw my father who wished me joy on my happy arrival and on my visit to the -tomb of Er-Sultán. Having thrice said the Súra-et-tekátherí, I awoke and took a -boat to visit the tomb of my father behind the arsenal, and my ancestors buried -there since the time of Mohammed II, thrice said the above Súra, then returned -home, took possession of my father’s heritage, and made a vow to consecrate two -thousand zechins of it to the pilgrimage of Mecca; visited all my friends and -acquaintances, and enjoyed with them the pleasures of conversation, when the great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span> -rebellion of the troops began on the eighteenth of Rejeb, 1058, and terminated in -the dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím and the accession of his son Mohammed IV.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>Here follows the account of the dethronement of Sultán Ibrahím, which is nearly -the same as has been given, in the first volume, under this Sultán’s reign, and is -therefore omitted here.</i>)</p></blockquote> - -<p>Evliya then relates how his master Mohammed Defterdár Zádeh came to Constantinople, -and after a lively contest with Koja Mevleví, the grand vezír, obtained -from him the nomination to the Governorship of Malatia, begging he would grant -it him with the Kharáj (tribute), Awáriz (accidental duties) and the Mohassillik or -collectorship, which was done. Evliya waited on him and with great difficulty obtained -permission to go on the pilgrimage to Mecca. He then remained sometime -at Constantinople, and attached himself to Silehdár Murteza Páshá, as Múezzin-báshí -(chief proclaimer of prayer), he was also named Imám of the Mahmel (the Sultán’s -annual present to Mecca), and went from Constantinople to Scutarí in the first -days of the month Sha’abán, setting out with Murteza Páshá for the journey to -Damascus. The Páshá’s Imám being an Arab whom Murteza disliked, the Arab -performed prayers outside, and Evliya inside the Páshá’s tent and was continually -in the Páshá’s company. During the time they remained at Scutari, the famous -robber Hyder Oghlí, in whose hands Evliya had fallen when he lost his way in the -pass as before related, was brought in by Hassan Aghá, and hanged at Parmak-kapú -(finger-gate). The same night as the execution of the robber, Evliya -slept in his paternal home at Constantinople, then took leave of his friends and -relations and passed over to Scutarí, where he visited Mahmúd Efendí of Scutarí, -and Saint Karají Ahmed and the tombs of all the great men in the burying ground, -calling their spirits to his assistance in the Syrian voyage, which he was about to -undertake.</p> - -<p class="center"> -Amen, by the grace of the Lord of Apostles.<br /> -</p> - - -<p class="center">END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.</p> - - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber’s Notes</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</p> - -<p>There are many variations in the spelling, hyphenation and accents of -proper names and other non-English terms. Except in cases where there is an -obvious dominant spelling and a variant that may legitimately be seen -as a typographical error, these remain unchanged.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, -and Africa, in the Seventeenth Centur, by Evliya Çelebi and Joseph Hammer-Purgstall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 54255-h.htm or 54255-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/2/5/54255/ - -Produced by Turgut Dincer, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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