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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9567bef --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #54092 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/54092) diff --git a/old/54092-0.txt b/old/54092-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index cf3ad78..0000000 --- a/old/54092-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5800 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea, by -Louise B. Robinson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea - -Author: Louise B. Robinson - -Release Date: February 2, 2017 [EBook #54092] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BUNDLE OF LETTERS *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Adrian Mastronardi, The Philatelic -Digital Library Project at http://www.tpdlp.net and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - - - A BUNDLE OF LETTERS - FROM OVER THE SEA. - - [Illustration] - -_This book may be obtained through any bookseller in the United States, - for two dollars, or will be mailed, postage paid, on receipt of that - amount by the publishers._ - - - - - A BUNDLE OF LETTERS - - FROM OVER THE SEA - - BY - - Louise B. Robinson - - “Visions of the days departed - Shadowy phantoms fill my brain” - - BOSTON - J. G. CUPPLES COMPANY - The Back Bay Bookstore - 94 BOYLSTON STREET - 1890 - - _COPYRIGHT_, 1889, - BY LOUISE B. ROBINSON. - - _All rights reserved._ - - Cupples Press: Boston. - - PRINTED BY J. G. CUPPLES COMPANY. - - - [Illustration] - - DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR - To Her Mother - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - -PREFACE ix - -LETTER I. 1 -I am off. On the sea. - -LETTER II. 13 -Liverpool. Chester. Rugby. Leamington. -Stratford-on-Avon. Kenilworth. Warwick. - -LETTER III. 29 -London. - -LETTER IV. 67 -Paris. - -LETTER V. 127 -Ambrieau. Geneva. - -LETTER VI. 143 -Chamouni. Mer de Glace. Tête Noire. - -LETTER VII. 157 -Martigny. Chillon. Berne. Interlaken. - -LETTER VIII. 171 -Lucerne. Altorf. The Rigi. Zurich. Schaffhausen. - -LETTER IX. 191 -Strassburg. Baden Baden. Willbad. Carlsruhe. -Heidelberg. - -LETTER X. 217 -Mayence. Wiesbaden. The Rhine. - -LETTER XI. 233 -Cologne. - -LETTER XII. 247 -Utrecht. Amsterdam. - -LETTER XIII. 263 -The Hague. Rotterdam. Brussels. - -LETTER XIV. 281 -Antwerp. - -LETTER XV. 291 -On Shipboard. New York. Boston. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -_In presenting my little book to the public, I feel that I should -apologize for so doing, instead of introducing it; for at the time my -letters were written I had no idea of publishing them. Since my return, -however, several friends who had read them have assured me that they -greatly enjoyed them, and felt that others would do so, also, had they -the opportunity. The letters have, at least, the merit of being fresh -and honest impressions of the places described, as they were written on -the spots. Remembering how eagerly I have always read letters of travel, -I sincerely hope that mine may prove a source of pleasure to some--to -those who have been over the same ground, and to many who have the -pleasure in anticipation. I am aware that the route I describe is a -well-worn thoroughfare, but every eye has its own perspective, and -different views of the same pictures assist the sight-seer in -comprehending the whole. Therefore, I here beg the charity of all into -whose hands this little book may fall._ - -_L. B. R._ - -_Hotel Oxford, Boston, - -December 20, 1889._ - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -A BUNDLE OF LETTERS FROM OVER THE SEA. - - - - -LETTER I. - -CUNARD ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP _Etruria_, -MID-OCEAN, _June 12_. - - -Well, was not this starting for Europe in a hurry? I left Boston -Saturday, June 9th, at five A.M., only deciding the day previous to go. -A number of letters and telegrams, from New York, urging me to join a -delightful party who were to make the journey, proved to be too much of -a temptation to accept the change I so much needed, to resist. For -several previous seasons I have seen friends off, honestly glad to have -them enjoy so much, but after awhile enthusiasm in the pleasures of -others, who enjoy much and leave you behind to be glad for them, grows -dull, like champagne long uncorked, not much sparkle to it, ‘for all -work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.’ A hurried packing; good-by -letters; messenger boys running here and there; a turning of the keys; -and I am off. To my maid, to the elevator boy, to the expressman and the -coachman, I excitedly said, ‘I am going to Europe,’ but their faces did -not light up with delight as I expected they would; and I thought--How -unappreciative we all are, after all, of other people’s enthusiasm. The -train was a slow one, but the only one that could possibly get me to New -York in time to take the steamer. Some trouble with the machinery of the -engine detained us, and I spent the time, while the cars were stopped, -praying to be resigned, if I had got to be disappointed, as, for a -while, matters looked as if it would be impossible for me to reach my -friends on the hour for the ship to sail. But prayers and the work of an -ingenious Yankee mechanic carried us through. It was after 3 P.M. when -we rolled into the Grand Central Depot. I rushed into the nearest cab -like one mad--urged, coaxed, and fee’d my driver, who quickly -comprehended the situation and ran his horses to the best of their -speed, and did get me to the Cunard Wharf about ten minutes before the -Etruria moved; but it was in truth a ‘John Gilpin ride.’ My friends were -on the lookout with anxious eyes, and, when they caught a sight of me, -greeted my appearance with shouts of delight. After the excitement was -over, we settled down into an ‘all right’ atmosphere and looked about. -The sights that met my eyes I shall never forget. The huge ship with the -bright-colored flags flying, the hundreds of people crowded on her, -hundreds more on the wharf, throwing kisses, waving handkerchiefs and -adieus, everybody loaded with flowers, many laughing and more crying. -‘God bless you. Take care of yourselves. Write soon and often,’ were the -oft-repeated words we heard. The planks are drawn, the band struck up -‘The Girl I left behind me,’ and off we steamed down the beautiful -harbor of New York, fast leaving the shores of America in the distance. -I thought of all the loved friends we were sailing away from, in the -body but not in spirit, and asked our dear ‘Father in Heaven’ to take -care of us all. I was tired, so dined early, settled things a little in -our state-room, and retired. I went immediately to sleep, without a -care, like a weary, confiding child on its mother’s breast, and did not -once awaken until nine the next morning--Sunday. My rest was perfect, -thus ‘rocked in the cradle of the deep,’ while the waves sung to me -their sweet lullaby. I arose feeling thoroughly refreshed--rubbed my -eyes well to be convinced that I was not dreaming, and that in reality I -was far out at sea. We have a fine state-room; two wide berths and a -sofa; and only F. and I its occupants; plenty of room for our things, -and two looking-glasses; so we shall be sure to keep amiable on this -trip. The Etruria is a beautiful and an immense steamer. Four hundred -persons make up the crew and she takes fifty engineers. We have a music -room, a library, a large saloon, reception rooms, dining room, etc., -all finely and conveniently furnished and spacious. We have six hundred -passengers on board, all first class, and a fairly good-looking crowd -notwithstanding there are but few from Boston. We take no second class -passengers or emigrants. So far the weather has been charming. We settle -ourselves in our steamer chairs in the most deliciously idle and -comfortable positions, E. tucks his numerous nice wraps about us, for -the air is keen but most wholesomely pure and sweet, and we give -ourselves up both body and mind to perfect rest and repose, such as no -condition on land can bring. I even find myself wishing that the steamer -would not speed on quite so rapidly. I am afraid we shall sight land too -soon. On shipboard, the slightest incident becomes to all a matter of -great interest. A ship in the distance, or a whale’s back, will cause as -much excitement as Barnum’s circus in a country town. We have seen two -steamers far away, many sea-gulls and Mother Cary’s chickens, and a -school of porpoises followed us a long distance, creating much -amusement. We have two dukes on board, a real lord and a lady, but they -look very like the rest of us mortals, and seem to do quite as much -stretching, yawning, walking, and eating. We have met here several old -friends, and have made some new ones. Everybody seems inclined to be -agreeable and social. I cannot imagine how any one could ever think a -sea voyage dull. I get so interested in all about me, that their -interests and purposes become my own. A bright little Cuban miss -confided to me that she was going to travel for a year, because her rich -father had taken to himself a new companion younger than herself, and -she could not stay at home and see the young girl in her mother’s place. -We have six school-girls on board with their chaperone, and a jolly good -time they are having. School-girls are the same everywhere. A bride and -groom sit at table near us, trying to act as if they had been always -married, but are really continually revealing their new condition. Ah! -‘the old, old story,’ but ever new. A gentleman from the West, who had -been cabled to ‘hurry over--wife sick,’ walks the deck with a face that -tells of the sad heart he carries. How we all sympathize with him, and -yet are so helpless in comforting him! We had a fine concert in the -grand saloon last evening, for ‘sweet charity;’ and many of the ladies -honored the occasion by changing their travelling dresses for evening -costumes. Mlle. Zelie de Lussan sang two pieces most charmingly, and on -encore gave us ‘Coming thro’ the Rye’ and ‘Dors mon ange.’ She is a -great favorite with all on board, and no wonder, for she endeavors in -her sweet way to add to the happiness of all. She was enthusiastically -applauded. We had some fine instrumental music on both violin and piano, -and ‘Tony’ Pastor was irresistible in his manner of rendering several -comic selections, and very kind to repeat them in acknowledgment of -hearty applause. Our young ladies passed around the hats, into which -coin was quickly deposited to the amount of over three hundred dollars. -Rev. Dr. H., of New York, made a few remarks. He is a forcible, -impressive speaker and with a physique equal to our own Trinity Rector. -He also has exhibited a commendable spirit in helping make the time pass -agreeably for all with whom he has come in contact. Editor P. is also -amongst us, leaving his ‘New York World’ behind for a time, but not -under a bushel. Our table and the service are excellent: and what -gormandizers we are to be sure! Hungry as sharks every meal, -notwithstanding the hourly extras of bouillon and crackers on deck, and -the daily treats from our own boxes of fruit, wine, and bon-bons. If any -one should now ask me ‘What is the chief end of man?’ I should honestly -answer, To eat of all, at least, on board our ship. Poor E. looks upon -his chest of medicines for sea-sickness as a lost investment; stocks way -down--not even a shadow of an excuse yet for opening it. Miss C., the -noted beauty, is on board, but her fair face is closely enveloped in -veils, that the sun and wind may not be too familiar. One loses much not -to take the whole of this blessed, invigorating air, and look out -unhampered on the exquisite sky and cloud effects above us, and the -artistic blending of blues and greens on the waves beneath. - -_Liverpool, England, June 17, 1888._--We first saw land yesterday -morning, very early. It was a perfect morning, clear and warm, and when -we emerged from our state-room and made our way on deck, we found the -greater portion of our comrades ahead of us, with their glasses in hand, -peering toward the rocky coast of not far away ‘Old Ireland.’ It is a -rough, rugged shore, with here and there a lighthouse, built as if to -last for ages, on rocks, strong and high, and all colored white with -some black trimmings. Occasionally an old castle is seen. The fields of -flax, colored with all the shades of green, are very beautiful, and add -much to vary the scene. - -We have had, as one of our daily companions crossing over, an Irish -gentleman of much intelligence and culture. He is a large land-holder, -and has a fine home not very far from Dublin; has been travelling some -in America, but mostly in the Western States. I have gained much -information from him of his country and its people. He was amazed at the -extent of our own land, but with all his intelligence could not -comprehend everything connected with our divisions of country clearly, -and said to me--‘Boston, that city is very near Massachusetts, is it -not?’ He admired American ladies, and thought ‘Mrs. Cleveland should -reign in Washington longer.’ His brogue was fascinating, and he talked -much of the Pot-o-mac River. - -In speaking of the poor of his country, I did not hesitate to ask him -how he and gentlemen of his kind could endure having the poor so -oppressed by the rich landlords; that to me it seemed most cruel. With a -sympathetic sigh he replied, ‘If you will visit me, I will show to you -more than I can tell you.’ - -Our big steamer stopped, for the first time, for the passengers who were -booked for the ‘Green Isle’ to get on to the little tug which came -puffing down from Queenstown, and we said good-by to many of our -fellow-voyagers reluctantly. A large mail was thrown on board also for -Ireland, carrying undoubtedly happiness and help into many homes. - -On again we started, and reached Liverpool at one o’clock A.M. We -certainly had a perfect trip over, and the Etruria and her watchful, -careful commander, Captain Cook, will have ever a grateful place in my -memory. Blessed be the gift of memory! The one thing that holds -precious treasures that cannot be taken from us; from which we can at -all times summon the delights and joys of the past, without money and -without price. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER II. - - -We landed at seven A.M. Were detained but a short time at the -Custom-house. The ordeal of examining luggage there, proved much less -than we expected; one pleasant official, remarking that he did not wish -to disturb my nicely packed bags, would pass them over if I would swear -that I had no tobacco or cigars. Hasty good-bys, cards and kisses -exchanged, and we were soon whirled to our hotel--the Adelphi. What a -transition! We have nice rooms, and a pretty maid, with a demi-trained -white cambric dress on, to wait upon us, looking as fresh as a daisy. -After breakfast, we went to drive about the city, the largest seaport in -the world. The docks are many miles in length. We visited the museum, -St. George’s Hall, and looked into one or two churches. The city looks -solid and business-like, but not attractive. The suburbs are more so, -and have fine trees. No more horse-cars for us, but trams, with seats on -top, which we very much like. After luncheon, we crossed the Mersey in a -ferry, to Birkenhead, and there took steam cars for Chester, thirty -miles away. Chester! old, odd, quaint, red-walled Chester! We hurried to -the Cathedral, to be in time for service, which proved to be a choral -one, of great beauty and sacredness, and the first words that greeted us -were sweetly sung, and impressed us in a stronger way than ever did the -same words before:-- - - ‘Jesus shall reign where’er the sun - Doth his successive journeys run; - His kingdom stretch from shore to shore, - Till moons shall wax and wane no more.’ - -Of this cathedral you have read many descriptions, and yet one can have -but little idea of it without seeing it. As I sat in the chancel, and -looked about me, I felt as if I belonged to the past. There seemed to be -a spirit of antique rest and repose pervading the whole interior. After -service, we peeped into the nooks and corners of the old church, and -then out into the rich balmy air of this perfect day in June, and walked -on the old wall which was built to protect the town. We looked from the -windows of the tower, where Charles I. stood and saw his army defeated -by Cromwell. How many reminiscences of our lessons in history at school -these old towns bring up! An open carriage stood near us, into which we -jumped, and were driven through the grounds and to the home of the Duke -of Westminster, who is, I believe, the richest man in England. As it was -Sunday, we could not be admitted to the palace, but enjoyed the drive -through the perfect grounds immensely. The town contains a beautiful -park, in which is a fine statue of the father of the present duke. The -narrow streets and the odd-looking old houses in the oldest part of the -town were intensely attractive to me, so, leaving the rest of my party -to wander in the park, I strolled off alone. I pulled the latch-string -of a little house, and a kindly faced old lady appeared. I asked for -some water, and she urged me to come in and rest, and I lingered a long -time, so interesting to me were her tales of Chester, where she had all -her life lived, not even having been so far away as ‘Lunnon town.’ The -custom of ringing what used to be the ‘curfew bell’ is still kept up. A -bell rings at nine P.M., and if maids are out alone after that hour they -may be arrested. ‘A good custom it is,’ said the old lady; ‘God made the -night to sleep, and not for gadding.’ Back to Liverpool, and good-by to -E. He remains here, and we go to-morrow to Leamington Spa. - -_June 18._--At seven A.M. we left Liverpool. The morning was a perfect -one, and our train ran slowly, perhaps purposely that we might see -beautiful old England. And beautiful it is! Such green fields, such -magnificent trees, such hedges, ivy, hawthorn, and a tangled mass of -sweetbrier and wild rose. Houses covered with ivy and roses. Roses in -bloom everywhere, little plots of ground around the stations filled with -roses--red, white, and yellow, their sweet fragrance pouring into the -windows of our car. The flocks of sheep, the herds of cattle in the -fields and meadows, resting, or cooling their feet in silver streams. O -how beautiful this all is! The blue sky of to-day seems so near us. -Glimpses of cathedrals and palatial homes greet us. The fields of wild -poppies and wheat add brilliancy to it all. Surely we must be in the -highly cultivated, most beautiful part of England! But no, it is all the -same. There are no rough spots in England, no stony pastures, no broken -fences: it is all a beautiful garden from one end to the other. F. says -almost too ‘spick and span;’ but to me, perfection. Our first stop was -at Rugby. Ascertaining that we must remain there two or three hours, and -remembering ‘Tom Brown,’ we set out to see the world-renowned school. -Its buildings are large and castle-like. Any man who has resided in the -county two years is entitled to send his sons to the school, to be -educated free of expense. There is a pretty chapel here, and in the -transept a monument to the revered Dr. Thomas Arnold. One of the -stained-glass windows is also in memory of him, and the words beneath it -seemed to me particularly touching and appropriate:-- - - ‘And Jesus said unto him, Thomas, because thou hast seen me thou - hast believed: blessed are they who have not seen, and yet have - believed.’ - -The name of Arnold seems to be revered by every one in Rugby, and his -best monument is the school for which he did so much. He buried creeds -and lived by the Golden Rule. - -Our next halt was at Leamington, and here we are, feeling quite like -citizens. The town is crowded with visitors, and we were most fortunate -in finding rooms at a small hotel which had just been vacated by -Americans. This town is a health resort and a fashionable and popular -one. There are four medicinal springs, each one different from the -others in remedial properties. The streets of the town are broad, shaded -by grand old trees that form perfect arches for long distances. The -residences are immense and very handsome, some quite palatial; but -seeing ‘To Let’ on many of them, we came to the conclusion that they -were too expensive for the owners to live in, but were afterwards told -that the richest and most cultivated people of the place rent their -houses for almost fabulous sums, for the months of May and June, and -take that time to travel themselves, on the Continent. Near the royal -pump-room, at the beautiful Jephson Gardens, on the banks of the river -Leam, in the little parks, in the streets, and everywhere else here, we -see bath-chairs on wheels--people of all ages, from infants to aged men -and women, being drawn in them by their servants. I thought at first -they must all be invalids from some cause, but it seems not: many are -being trolled about in this manner for enjoyment. The drives in the town -and about its suburbs are of unrivalled beauty. We stood under the shade -of a large oak tree, said to be in the very centre of England. From here -we made an excursion to Stratford, which town has, if possible, an older -look than Chester. We asked a little girl to direct us to the church -where Shakespeare was buried. She looked somewhat frightened, and -answered, ‘He is not buried; he keeps store down that way.’ It was -evident the little tot was not Stratford-born. We sauntered along, and -soon met a gentleman who gave us the desired information. Walking -through a beautiful avenue of lime trees, we soon reached the church. -In the chancel is the tomb of Shakespeare. A bust of the great poet is -on the wall, and there is a flagstone bearing the inscription familiar -to all:-- - - ‘Good friend, for Jesvs sake forbeare - To digg the dvst encloased heare: - Bleste be ye man that spares thes stones. - And curst be he that moves my bones.’ - -The church is very old,--a cruciform, with central tower and spire; and -some portions of the old carvings attracted our attention. I was much -disappointed with the expression of the face of the bust: it looked as -if the great man felt nauseated, and the atmosphere of the church made -me feel intensely so, so close and musty was it; so out into the air we -gladly went. We strolled about in the churchyard for a while, looking at -the old stones and reading the queer epitaphs. On one were these words, -after the name of a wife, her age, and time of decease: ‘The Lord has -done great things for us, whereof we are exceeding glad.’ I doubt that -widowed husband being able to win wife number two. The house where the -poet was born is a little old structure of wood and plaster, but well -preserved. The walls of several of the rooms are entirely covered with -names written by the sight-seers who have visited them. How strange but -how true it is, that real genius nearly always springs from homes of -poverty! Everything in the town has a Shakespearian flavor. The fine -fountain presented by our own countryman, George W. Childs, is a -beautiful offering. The Shakespeare Memorial Buildings, in the form of a -theatre, are very elegant, and contain some fine pictures. F. left me to -enjoy the interior of this new edifice, saying to ‘look for her on the -banks of the Avon,’ and when I did so, found her sleeping in a boat, on -the immortalized waters, with the willow trees on the banks throwing -their shadows over her. One can scarcely help feeling tinges of romance -and sentiment here, this river has been so sweetly sung of; and yet it -is a very unpretentious, quiet, narrow stream; but memories of the Bard -of Avon linger in every spot. - -We were shown, at the Red Horse Hotel, the rooms which were occupied by -our own Washington Irving during his visit here, and in the parlor was -the ‘Sexton’s Clock’ which he refers to in the ‘Sketch Book.’ We have -seen the oddest names in England, for inns and boarding-houses, -imaginable, such as the Pied Bull, The Elephant and the Castle, The -Turtle and the Lamb, The Pig and the Whistle, The Hole in the Wall, and -The Struggling Man. Now the English are not wise in the selection of -such names. For my part, I should look farther for a stopping place. I -would not care to try to rest in The Hole in the Wall, or to be -protected by The Struggling Man. - -We visited New Place, Shakespeare’s home, and the Guild Chapel close by, -and ended the day by taking a short drive through some of the quaint -streets and the green lanes of this reposeful, historical, and -beautifully situated Stratford, whose whole atmosphere seems to be that -conducive to pure, high thoughts, spiritual exaltation, rest, and peace. -We returned to Leamington in time for a pleasant evening drive, after a -fair dinner. - -_June 19th._--We slept well, and took an early breakfast, then started -for Kenilworth Castle. It was a glorious morning. Where are the clouds -and fogs of England? We have yet seen none, and the road we were driven -over was beautiful. The pastoral scenes, made up of pretty homes, -cultivated fields, and flowers and ivy everywhere before and around us, -made us eagerly drink all in as a sweet nectar. And, more than all, the -entire way was clothed with historic interest. We could easily imagine -Queen Elizabeth and her lords and ladies dashing along over this very -ground in regal splendor. The castle is a ruin, but a grand one. It -stands on a high hill surrounded by a wall and moat, the former now down -in many places and the moat dry. The walls of the castle, sixteen feet -through, are now covered with a luxuriant growth of ivy, so thick that -the length of my long-handled parasol was lost in the mass of dark-green -leaves. When I look at this ivy and think of my little one at home, that -I have carefully tended for years, and yet it is no thicker now than a -jellyfish, I do not think much of English ivy torn from its mother soil. -The numerous turrets and towers are also covered with the same vine, -and are homes for hundreds of ravens. It is owing to the works of Scott -that this old castle is of such famous interest. As we wandered from -cells to banquet halls, we recalled the revellings and grandeur in the -latter, and the groans in the former that could not reach the ear of -mortals. In the ball-room we thought of the Earl of Leicester, who -ordered all clocks stopped that Elizabeth should take no note of time. -And at the entrance of the deep, dark dungeon we sighed for the -suffering Amy. But, had we stayed in the ruins much longer, ruined -financially should I have been, for the several ‘gentlemen,’ who seemed -to be looking at the same objects and with the same interest as myself, -and of whom I asked questions, proved to be guides or informers, and -expected their shillings. ‘How could I have known it?’ I exclaimed as F. -advised me not to talk so much. Well, I fear it is true that in this -country, if we ask a question, we must generally pay for the answer. -‘Pity ’tis ’tis true.’ - -Adieu to Kenilworth, and on to Warwick, which is of itself a village of -considerable size. Warwick Castle is the finest baronial residence in -all England. The approach to it is charming. We passed under the arched -and massive gateways into a winding avenue cut out of solid, unbroken -rock, and on which the castle itself is built; each side the rocks tower -far above our heads and are covered with ivy and other vines, and oh so -cool and beautiful it looks; so refreshing to us. All at once, and at an -unexpected turn, the magnificent castle is in sight. The lawn in front -of it, with its rare plants and parterres of gorgeous blossoms, the -sparkling fountains, and the many peacocks strutting about on the velvet -sward, with their gay plumage spread to its utmost extent, as if for our -especial admiration, almost dazzled us. We paused to take in the scene -before us, exhausting our vocabulary of adjectives in expressions of -delight. Every feature of the aspect was bright, winning, and -delightful. Some aristocratic terriers were grouped under the shade of a -white lilac, as if holding council. Dignified swans were lazily swimming -in the lake, and the red and gold uniformed Guards seemed perfectly -satisfied to spend the rest of their lives in slowly pacing up and down -the gravelled walks. The castle is in complete preservation, and its -long list of halls, libraries, and drawing-rooms are filled with rare -objects of beauty and interest, of great value. The guide who showed us -through the rooms carried himself in a most stately manner: his backbone -was surely made of iron, and ran up to the top of his head to hold on -his bushy wig, for he could not bend his body or turn his neck. Not -hearing one of his explanations in regard to a mosaic table, formerly -owned by Queen Elizabeth, I asked him what he said. This ‘Grand Mogul’ -slowly whirled his entire breadth toward me, and articulated in a -monotone these words, ‘The explanation I have once rendered.’ I said, ‘I -am sorry I did not comprehend it, but, as you are here for the purpose -of explaining, will you please tell me the story of the table again.’ F. -was dazed, but the man changed his superior attitude, and from that on -through the entire castle he gave me his devoted attention. In one of -the halls is a wonderful table, entirely formed of precious stones, -which once belonged to the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette. Statues -and original busts of many old warriors and kings are here. There is a -red, a gilt, and a cedar drawing-room, all filled with really -magnificent paintings. I took great interest in studying the portraits -of Queen Elizabeth, the Earl of Leicester, and others who participated -in the gay life led near this spot. - -In the grounds are Guy’s and Cæsar’s Towers, and in one of the -greenhouses we saw the celebrated Warwick Vase, which was found in the -bottom of a lake in Rome, as long ago as 1770, I think. The Earl and -family live here a part of the year, but are now in London. This estate -must bring the Earl quite a revenue, as from fifty to one hundred -persons visit it every day, and each one leaves a shilling or more. - -Near the castle gate is the house where Walter Savage Landor was born, -and this whole Warwickshire is rich in the genius it has given to the -world. Green and Drayton opened their eyes on its illustrious soil, and -George Eliot, whose talent has enriched this age, here first saw light. -How can one feel like a common mortal, or lead an everyday life in a -country like this, so hallowed with historic and artistic associations. - -‘Step out of the past now into the present,’ said F., ‘and I will tell -you a story of Queen Elizabeth and Queen Mary. Did I ever tell it to -you?’ - -‘I do not recollect any such story that you ever told. Was it a good -one?’ - -‘O yes!’ - -‘Then you never told it.’ I did not get the story. - -Not far from the castle is a cathedral of considerable pretensions, -after visiting which, we were driven back to Leamington, having spent a -most delightful day. Finding that an express train would get us to -London to-night, we paid our bills, took our bags, bade good-by to the -pretty Spa and our pleasant landlady, and were soon off. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER III. - -EDWARDS HOTEL, GEORGE ST., HANOVER SQ., -LONDON, _June 20_. - - -Our rooms we had telegraphed for, so upon reaching the city we had -nothing to do but enter a cab and be driven to them. We have homelike -accommodations, and our meals served in our own private parlor. -Everything in the house is so quiet that I did not know but we had made -a mistake and got into a retreat for the deaf and dumb. F. thinks it -fine, but I must say that when I am at a hotel I like the bustle and -excitement of one. - -The ‘office’ is a small room, presided over by two pretty young ladies, -who I imagine look upon us as intruders, but I talk _at_ them so much, -they are obliged to speak occasionally, although it seems an effort. -They drop their h’s, and I am sometimes puzzled to understand the little -information they condescend to give us. - -‘Boots,’ too, is equally taciturn so far: I think we shall have to be -more liberal with our English shillings! - -We hire our rooms here at a fair price, and make extra arrangements for -our meals. For breakfast, F. desired boiled eggs, and I chose fried. -Upon asking why my bill was more than hers, I was told that it was more -work to fry eggs than to boil them, and that is so. I look in vain for -ice-water: there is surely none around. I ask for some; and after -waiting long enough for water to freeze, am served with a pitcher of -water and a few small bits of ice in a glass. The Yankee ice-pitcher, -kept well filled, is an article unknown here. - -Out into the streets of London! What a crowd, what a bustle! What -fine-looking gentlemen, every one with a button-hole bouquet! The -streets crowded with handsome turnouts dashing quickly along; why, we -cannot cross the streets without assistance. Boston is a quiet village -compared to this. Groups of ladies, and rosy-cheeked girls laughing and -chatting, all wearing flowers; even the horses and carriages are trimmed -with them. Lines of hansoms, with generally a lady in each. Little -children, with overpowering big hats and bonnets, trotting along with -their nurses. Showily uniformed Guards as thick as flies at a summer -hotel,--and this is London to-day. - -Here is St. George’s Church, where so many of the aristocracy have taken -each other for better or for worse. And here in Hanover square is a fine -bronze statue of William Pitt. It looks to me like extraordinary good -work, but F. calls, ‘Come, you cannot spend much time cogitating over -any one man in this big place, dead or alive. If you want to soliloquize -over statues, come to St. Paul.’ And to St. Paul’s we went. There are -but two churches in the world larger than this: St Peter’s at Rome and -the Cathedral at Milan. As I tried to realize its immense proportions -before entering, I thought of the Yorkshire-man who brought his better -half to see the sights of London. ‘There, lass,’ said he, ‘there be -Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he be.’ And we agreed with -him long before we finished seeing the interior and its contents. There -are many, many monuments, and some exceedingly costly and beautiful, but -it is utterly impossible to comprehend so much at once. Some of the -sculptures of the church, telling the touching story of the incarnation -and life of our Saviour, were sadly beautiful, especially the figure of -Mary with the child in her arms, and the ideal figure of the ‘Risen -Christ.’ The ornamentations of the church are greatly in gilt and -marble, but the most of the latter material looked as if it needed -‘scrubbing.’ The huge organ, which seemed to be built on both sides of -the choir, was being tested by some noted organist; so we had the -pleasure of hearing its rich, full, exquisitely musical tones. - -Next we visited the Royal Exchange and the Bank of England; then made -our way to the ‘Tower,’ where kings and queens once lived, and where -many lost their heads. Just after entering the gates, a Guard approached -us, and without any apology or hesitation said, ‘Will you tell me the -name of the man who ran with Cleveland for president.’ As soon as we -could recover ourselves, we gladly gave him the desired information, -without expecting the usual shilling _we_ pay for asking a question -here. But we were astonished that he should have so quickly recognized -us as Americans, without hearing our voices. He returned to his comrade, -and they evidently resumed their interrupted conversation. - -The ‘Tower of London’ is now something of a historic museum. The room -containing the real Crown jewels was of much interest to me. Queen -Victoria’s crown is there, which she wore at her coronation and has worn -several times since, on state occasions. It is a large, high crown, -principally of gold, with a narrow strip of ermine about the lower edge. -The upper portion is completely studded with precious stones, a blazing -mass of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. Many other crowns and ornaments -are here, all containing jewels beyond value. They were indeed a sight -to behold, and really a delight to the eye. But before entering the -ground, in the street beyond, a weary, sunken-eyed woman, with an -emaciated child in her arms, asked me for enough money to buy some -bread. As I looked upon that scene and upon this, I felt the meaning of -the words which my maid at home uses when matters do not suit her, -‘There is a screw loose somewhere.’ Or perhaps over here the screw is -too tight. We went into the different rooms and towers where so many -royal prisoners suffered. In the Beauchamp Tower we found, amongst the -many inscriptions on the wall, the word ‘Jane,’ supposed to have been -placed there by the gentle, ill-starred Lady Jane Grey. We saw dungeons, -the bloody tower, the green where Anne Boleyn and many others were -executed; and all these places were so steeped with monstrous, cruel -deeds that it was a relief to turn away from them and shake off the -terrible memories. - -We somehow felt heavy-hearted, and F. decided it would be a good thing -to see a different extreme, and take a look at ‘wax figgers.’ The -underground railway, our first ride of the kind, soon carried us to -Madame Tussaud’s museum. - -These railways are, after all, not so very different from railways above -ground. There are so many stations where the daylight streams in, that -one does not have time to realize entire darkness. And what tremendous -space, thoroughly availed of, these stations give for advertisers. I -feel very familiar already with most of the stores, from these -advertising bills that stare us so conspicuously in the face. - -Madame Tussaud was really an artist, and modelled greatly in clay and -wax. For a long time she lived at the Tuileries and at Versailles, as -companion for noted porsonages of the Court. She was highly educated, -and possessed large means, but the Revolution compelled her to leave -France. Having lost her property, she began to exhibit her ‘figures,’ -and from that beginning has grown this large collection. A figure of -Voltaire, made by her from life, is simply wonderful. The entire -collection is much superior to the collection in the Eden Musee, New -York, and although some subjects are made to appear somewhat ridiculous, -the most are life-like and excellent. The murdered queens distressed -us; the wax ones have cheered us: and now for a ride in the open air! - -We took outside seats on a tram, and rode to the National Museum. I -delight in these top seats; we get such unobstructed views of everything -about us. - -We remained in the museum until the hour for closing, but only saw a -vast, immense accumulation of everything heard, unheard of, or dreamed -of. - -How singular many of the expressions we hear, sound to us. Lemonade is -called lemon-squash; the price of an article is the tariff; -ticket-offices are booking-rooms; and baggage, luggage always. The money -gave me some annoyance at first, but I now generally know what is the -correct change to give or to receive, but have one coin on hand which -puzzles me: all that I can see on it is--‘Thanks be to God and to -Victoria.’ I cannot quite decide the value of it. - -_June 21st._--Early this morning we sauntered toward St James’s Park, -noting the fine residences,--Marlborough House, the home of the Prince -of Wales and family, included. It is a plain, large building, dreary -looking; and our free to go and come American girl says, ‘I am thankful -I am not a princess. What a stupid time those girls, Louise, Maud, and -Victoria must have, shut up behind those walls without ever being able -to take a walk with “Tom, Dick, and Harry” unattended.’ - -An English lady told us, at our hotel, that there is a rumor that the -Princess Louise is very much in love with an English Earl much older -than herself. These girls are said to be all very plain looking, -inheriting none of the graces of their beautiful mother, who seems to be -greatly beloved by all the English people, and whose unfortunate -deafness excites heartfelt compassion and sympathy. - -The houses in London, even homes of the greatest simplicity, are named, -and the names are generally placed where they can be plainly seen and -read. The names of the residences of the nobility, as well as many names -of the streets, often give us a clue to their founders, and are -therefore appropriate and helpful. - -The Prince and Princess of Wales are now in Germany, on account of the -death of the Emperor Frederick, the husband of the oldest sister of the -Prince. The entire royal family are of course in deep mourning. In fact, -two thirds of all the people here are now dressed in black. Our little -chambermaid, at our hotel, did not appear this morning as early as usual -to give us her service, and when she made her appearance I asked her if -she was ill. She replied: ‘Not at all, but we have been ordered into -Court mourning, and I sat up late to get my black dress made, so felt -very weary, and slept late.’ - -We soon found ourselves near the military quarters, where we stopped to -see the Grenadiers, the Queen’s Guard, parade and drill, and to listen -to the fine music of the band. - -Buckingham Palace is quite near enough to Marlborough House for -Alexandra to run over to her mother-in-law, Mrs Guelph, to borrow her -spoons, in case her own number should be insufficient for any little tea -party, or for the good grandmother to be called if the children should -unexpectedly ‘come down’ with the chicken-pox or the measles; it looks -as if it might be a real social neighborhood. The exterior of the -palace is of light-colored stone, but not nearly as fine a building as -we had expected to see, as the principal residence of the Queen. The -family had left for Windsor the day before. We were shown the royal -stables and saw the state coach. These royal residences do not impress -us as being in the least remarkable. They are immense in size, but -possess no merits in the way of architecture. - -This part of London is very beautiful, with its handsome streets and -soft green-turfed parks. - -We continued our walk to Westminster Abbey, and entered. If palaces have -not come up to my expectations, this far exceeds them. The church is -huge, built in the form of a Latin cross, a great pile of grandeur. The -interior is indeed most beautiful, and one might spend weeks within, and -yet feel that the half had not been seen. Such a succession of -wonderfully beautiful monuments and memorials to the distinguished, -illustrious, and talented dead. As works of art, this exquisite -sculpture delighted my eye more than anything I had ever seen. Kings -and queens lie here, statesmen and historians, generals and -philosophers, inventors and poets, and the remains of many that were -great on earth, and the beautiful marble covers them! But oh, I know I -would rather lie like the poorest peasant under the greensward, where -the sun could shine on my resting-place. The reclining statue of the -wife of Dean Stanley is lovely beyond description. The angelic -expression of the beautiful sweet face seems to tell us that she has -found rest in her ‘Father’s mansion’ and is satisfied. How short a time -ago does it seem that I heard the Dean in our own Trinity. His body now -rests here. The words inscribed on the monument in memory of Franklin, -the Arctic explorer, were sadly touching: so simple, and yet so full of -meaning:-- - - O ye Frost and Snow! - O ye Ice and Cold! - -In the Poet’s Corner lies the mouldering dust of Thackeray, Southey, -Milton, Chaucer, Dickens, and many, many others, whose works will live -forever, and whose words and characters will carry companionship and -comfort into many a household, as do the lines of our own Longfellow, -of whom his English admirers have here placed a beautiful bust. It is of -pure white marble, and the likeness excellent. It stands between the -monuments of Cowley and Dryden. Some one had placed a fresh red rose in -the folds of the drapery, probably some American, sight-seeing like -ourselves, and it all brought our home so near to me that tears came -unbidden - - ‘Then the forms of the departed - Enter at the open door: - The beloved, the true-hearted, - Come to visit me once more.’ - -And now, even in this temple of the dead, how sure we feel ‘There is no -death; what seems so is transition.’ A magnificent monumental chapel, -with costly statues and sculptures, surmounts the tomb of one of the -Henrys. Many other chapels, in memory of saints, are also here, with -aisles and transepts filled with monuments. The beautiful rose window -and the marigold window are worth crossing the ocean to see. But of the -numberless wonderful things here I must not now tell you much more, -only will tell you that the Coronation Chair we have touched, in which -have been crowned all the English sovereigns from Edward the Confessor -to Queen Victoria. I reluctantly left this sacred building impressed -deeply with its wonders. - -We next went to a gorgeous restaurant to dine, fully coming to the -realization that we are still in the flesh. These London restaurants are -a surprise to us, in the quantity of excellent food they give, well -cooked and served, for very little money. I never before knew the real -meaning of a good mutton chop, for we get none in America like these -over here. The whitebait, here considered so great a delicacy, I do not -‘hanker’ for--should rather have a ‘Taunton herring.’ - -After dining, we visited a collection of paintings, an annual exhibition -by English artists. After looking about there, we went to the exhibition -of the Royal Academy of Arts, which gave us great pleasure. The Royal -Academy is a private society, and from its fund supports a fine-art -school; and the judges of paintings connected with the Academy are -considered so perfect in their estimates, that it increases the money -value greatly of a picture if accepted by them and hung at their -exhibitions. We were told that on an average ten thousand pictures are -sent them for every annual exhibit, but rarely over two thousand are -accepted. This, of course, causes some hard feeling amongst the artists. -A portrait of Sir William Jenner, physician to the Queen, by Frank Holl, -R. A., was most life-like. Many portraits by Herkomer were also -excellent, particularly one of his aged father and his own young sons. -One painting, named ‘A Hopeless Dawn,’ by Bramley, attracted me greatly. -It portrayed the full meaning of the quotation from Ruskin: ‘Human -effort and sorrow going on perpetually from age to age; waves rolling -forever, and winds moaning, and faithful hearts wasting and sickening -forever, and brave lives dashed away about the rattling beach like weeds -forever; and still, at the helm of every lonely boat, through starless -night and hopeless dawn, His hand who spreads the fisher’s net over the -dust of the Sidonian palaces, and gave into the fisher’s hand the keys -of the kingdom of heaven.’ Besides the oils and water-colors, the -collection of miniatures, etchings, drawings, engravings, and sculpture, -all exceptionally fine, gave us a rare pleasure. We here met the first -large assemblage of Londonites that we have seen. The élite of society -were present, and many noted persons pointed out to us. The ladies do -not dress as well as our own Americans, but I must give precedence to -the English gentlemen for both good looks and style, courtly manners and -taste in costumes. - -Having occasion to be near the Houses of Parliament, we thought we would -utilize time by going in then and there. But how to get in? We had not -taken time, as yet, to call upon Mr. Phelps for letters, as we had meant -to do later, having a letter of introduction to our Minister from a -personal friend of his and our own. ‘But time in London is precious,’ -said F., ‘so let us try.’ Parliament was in session, and being earnestly -anxious to see its workings, we screwed our courage to its utmost -tension and proceeded. After battling with a half-dozen Guards and -coaxing another half-dozen, we found ourselves inside the Lobby. An -immense concourse of ladies and gentlemen were in the corridors, waiting -their turn to be admitted, and our chances without a pass began to look -rather doubtful. However, with true Yankee pluck I looked over the faces -of the officials, and finally settled upon an amiable-appearing one, -belonging to a ‘Sergeant-at-arms’ and approached him--told him our -situation, and appealed to him for aid. He was every inch a gentleman, -and evidently anxious to assist us. Told us the only possible way to get -in was to send our card to a member. Yes, but we only knew names of -members, unfortunately; not one personally. Lowering his voice he said, -‘I have a brother inside, an official: give me your cards; I will send -them to my brother to give to Hon. ---- ----. He is the champion and the -favorite of all ladies, and never refuses, at any sacrifice, to do them -a favor.’ We wrote ‘Boston, U. S. A.,’ in the corner of our pasteboards -(which is, we find, a good place to hail from), and they went from us to -seek their fortune and ours. Word soon came back, brought by a handsome -page, that Mr. ---- was then delivering a speech, but would see us soon. -We waited some time, with much about us to take our attention, when a -Guard called in stentorian tones, ‘The Hon. Mr. ----.’ We arose as we -were told to do by our new-found ally, and saw approaching us a small, -pleasant-faced gentleman, who immediately extended his hand with words -of welcome, as if we were expected guests. To the kind-hearted, gallant, -and courteous Irish M. P. shall we ever be grateful! A way was made for -us into the gallery of the chamber of peers, from which we had a good -view of the brilliant show below. Many ladies were present on the -benches, mostly peeresses or relatives of nobility. Later, our kind -escort sent for us to take seats in the ladies’ gallery of the House of -Commons, which, not without difficulty, he had secured. We realize the -great honor of being here, and yet it is a good deal like sitting up in -an organ loft, or being placed, front side out, in a bread toaster, for -we are separated from the M. P.’s by metal spokes. The reporters have a -place under us, and the members occupy the other galleries and the -three or four hundred seats about the tables. A member was speaking, but -his enunciation was so poor that I failed to understand him; so spent -the time in looking about. Gladstone was present, but did not speak; I -had a very good view of him. He does not look at all ‘John Bullish,’ in -the old sense of the expression, but is a refined, modest-looking -gentleman, with rather a tired-out air about him. A number with wigs and -gowns, some stiff-appearing functionaries wearing garbs that looked as -if they were prepared for the stage, many pages rushing hither and -thither, the buzz of voices, and the hand-clapping, all made a -bewildering scene. It seemed very much out of keeping with the usually -ceremonious proceedings of the Commons, to see the members costumed in -perfect evening dress, wearing their hats. - -In the House of Lords the throne is the chief object of interest, and -the peers, upon entering, always salute it, I presume as something of a -compliment to royalty. It contains three seats: the middle one is the -Queen’s, the right-hand one that of the Prince of Wales, and the one on -the left has not been allowed to be occupied since the death of Prince -Albert. When the Lord Chancellor takes his seat in this room, he wears a -red gown, an ermine mantle, a big wig, and a three-cornered hat. We -thanked our new-made friend for his unusual kindness, for he really -seemed determined to make us feel that showing us about was the greatest -pleasure of his lifetime, and we left the Houses at ten P.M., with the -workings going on as lively as if just commenced. - -I think the manners of a Massachusetts legislative body superior in -dignity to those of the members of the House of Commons. But who under -the gilded dome on Beacon Hill would give himself as much trouble to -entertain a strange English lady, as our member took upon himself to -entertain us! Do not all speak at once, gentlemen. - -_Friday, June 22nd._--The clerk of the weather will come in rightfully -for his share of praise, for another bright morning greets us. We took -an early start for the National Gallery. Turner has here the most of -his works. Some of his paintings, although not considered as masterly as -his Slave Ship, please me better, but it seems to me he delights in -capricious methods in the use of his brush. It is a treat to our eyes to -see the originals of Landseer, Rosa Bonheur, and other works of artists -which have become familiar to us from engravings. One of Raphael’s -Madonnas is here, and long held our attention. London is full of -artists, and in the galleries we see hundreds of students copying, and -some excellent work they do. Here lives Herkomer, who was with us at one -time, also Millais, Sir Frederick Leighton, Alma Tadema, and others -whose talent has brought them large fortunes. The chimes ring out our -hour for leaving, although our time here has not been half long enough. -I love these chime bells! And nearly all of the churches have them, and -sweetly do they sound their pretty airs. - -A drive of about four miles brought us to the exhibition of the Royal -Military Tournament. The pavilion contained an aristocratic audience, -and the good horsemanship of the soldiers, on their handsome and -well-trained animals, was a novel sight. A lady sat next me with her two -little girls and their maid. The children had material enough in their -bonnets to have covered them all over comfortably, but their legs were -bare to the knees and looked cold, for the wind had changed, and a damp -draught chilled us. I offered part of my lap-wrap to the little ones, -and the mother kindly thanked me, but added, ‘They do not need it if -only their heads are warm; they cannot take cold; one never takes cold -in the legs, you know.’ And undoubtedly English mothers all agree with -her, for the children’s limbs are universally unprotected from the -weather. They wear heavy shoes but short stockings. I have already come -to the opinion that it is not of much use to differ with the English. If -we do, differently from them, they feel a little sorry for us that we do -not know the better way, which is always their way. - -This evening we went to the Covent Garden Theatre to hear Minnie Hauk, -in ‘Carmen.’ Not wishing to take time to get into full dress, we changed -our hats, substituting pretty, light-colored evening ones, and added -fresh, sweet roses to our costumes, and started, and thought our -appearance would do ourselves and all else credit. But to our -discomfort, opinions differed, and we could not be admitted to our box -without leaving our pretty head-gear outside, where they had no chance -of being seen and admired. After getting comfortably seated, we looked -about us. The ladies were dressed as if for a grand ball, silks, satins, -velvets, and tulles, of every color, composed the gowns, invariably made -décolleté--‘much, more, and most’ décolleté. Gentlemen were, of course, -all in dress suits, and every one wearing and carrying flowers. It was -indeed a brilliant scene, but I like the more modest costuming of our -own countrywomen, in public places, better. Displays like this, it seems -to me, should be made only, if at all, at private gatherings. The -setting of the opera and the music were superb. Hauk’s voice has -improved wonderfully since heard in America some years ago. She is a -great favorite here, and many of the aristocracy were of the audience, -and a loudly enthusiastic one it was. All the principal artists were -deluged with flowers, and Hauk received a laurel wreath of solid gold -leaves at the close of the last act. Prices to first-class -entertainments here are higher than in America, and programmes have to -be paid for always. They employ young women as ushers. Between acts, -ices and cool drinks are brought to the audience, but a round price is -asked for them. We lingered to see the people more distinctly as they -left their seats. The ladies lack the grace and beauty of Americans, but -look bright, rosy-cheeked, and healthful, but the gentlemen are -certainly superior in looks, carriage, and physique. Our little newsy -chambermaid tells us the London gentlemen all wear ‘stays.’ I wonder if -they do! - -_Saturday, June 23d._--What an immense city London is, to be sure! -Twenty miles long or more, and just as bustling at one end as the other. -There is such a mass of everything that it is almost overpowering. -To-day we have been driven through some of the best and some of the -worst streets in the city. We saw ‘The Old Curiosity Shop,’ and many -other spots immortalized by Dickens. We have looked into some of the -old churches and some of the new ones. Have been into the best stores, -and there are many fine ones. We find furs and silks cheaper, and -cottons dearer than at home. We could not find a pair of French kid -boots of a good shape in all London, and rubber overshoes are not kept -at all. We walked across London Bridge to take a look at the river, -crowded with barges, boats, ships, and water-craft of every make and -shape. We took luncheon at the Holborn Restaurant, and thought we had -stepped into a palace, so sumptuous were the surroundings. It was very -pleasing to take our bouillon on a mosaic table, surrounded with Carrara -marble statuary, and listening to the strains of lulling, restful music. - -After replenishing the ‘inner man,’ we boarded a little steamer for a -sail up the Thames. The banks of the river are full of interest. The -water of the lower part is thick and muddy, and I should think that even -a desperate, would-be suicide would turn from it disgusted. As we go up -farther, where the shipping is less, it becomes clearer. Excursion -steamers, barges, and yachts, freighted with humanity, are busily plying -up and down, and the bridges open gracefully to let us pass. The river -itself, with the Victoria Embankment on the one side and the Albert -Embankment on the other, the fine buildings, the parks, and the noble -trees, all seen through the rich atmosphere of this perfect June day, -make a picturesque and enjoyable impression, not soon to be forgotten. - -We landed, on our return, where we could take a carriage for Hyde Park. -As we are in London ‘in the season,’ in the Park, about five P.M., we -see all the ‘swelldom’ driving and riding, for it is here they take -their airing. The Park itself is lovely, with large, perfect roads and -walks, grand, magnificent old trees, plump, clean sheep and graceful -deer grazing contentedly, as well they may in such quarters. The -kaleidoscope views of the interminable throng in the ‘Drive’ and the -‘Row,’ the fine horses, the gorgeous equipages, the showy liveries, and -the gay toilettes, are bewildering. Here surely is abundance of style. -Here are hundreds of elegant turnouts, many with armorial bearings, -fours-in-hand, sixes-in-hand, dog-carts, T-carts, tandems, and phaetons; -footmen and coachmen in livery of red and white, and red and gilt, some -with wigs and some without. Here comes a pony carriage with a load of -laughing children, there an antiquated yellow-bodied ducal coach, with -postilions well powdered and the dowagers inside looking powdered also; -a low buggy with a light-blue body, and a blue-ribboned girl with ‘her -young man’ beside her looking into her blue eyes; a black carriage hung -high, footmen and coachmen in black, and the ladies within draped in -crape. And this is Hyde Park! Solemnity and gayety! Prince and commoner -meet, and all are lookers on. The boats on the Serpentine, and that -wonderful pile of marble and bronze, the Albert Memorial, next attracted -us. The marble groups representing the four great nations, and the -bas-reliefs of great artists and poets, are fine. Although London is so -immense and so crowded, its people have plenty of beautiful breathing -spots, more beautiful than the people of any other city, unless the -Parisians. To our hotel to dress and out to dinner, our first dinner -here with friends. - -Our visit in a London home, last evening, was delightful, we were so -cordially welcomed and so hospitably entertained. The house, in one of -the best streets of the city, was a large, square one with hall in the -centre. The rooms were spacious, with dark finishings and furnishings, -therefore not wearing the cheery look of our own homes. The massiveness -of the elaborately carved furniture seemed to overshadow heavily the -very few ornamental articles displayed. There were no paintings on the -walls, but a small gallery in the rear of the house contained a good -collection. The effect of the living rooms without the bright, living -faces would have been somewhat sombre. I think a happy medium would be -desirable, a little more bric-a-brac in European homes and a little less -in our own, in which I have often had to navigate carefully to avoid -running against ornamental articles. The English people are at their -best under their own ‘fig-tree.’ They build homes for a lifetime, and -for their children and grandchildren after them. They make but few -changes in them, and the women particularly stay, or ‘stop’ as they -would say, the greater portion of their lives in their homes, for as a -people they travel but little. They are very hospitable after once -having been introduced, and entirely at ease in entertaining, as an -English household is rarely without its guests. Our host, an M. P., has -a house in the country, and they only spend the ‘season’ in town. The -English greatly love the country and out-of-door life and sports. -Several friends of our entertainers had been invited to meet us, and we -found them all very gracious and charming. I think the English are a -good deal like a Devonshire pie,--wearing a thick crust, but when once -the crust is broken the ‘goodies’ are unusually delicious. Our menu at -dinner consisted of soup, fish, entrée, roast-beef, chicken, and desert, -with wines and coffee. No carving was done at the table. The vegetables -were brought in served in individual dishes. By the way, no vegetables -are palatably prepared in England, for they are never seasoned. The -English keep many servants, and at this dinner there seemed to be a -servant for every guest. The English are great eaters, but they take -plenty of time to do it in. The general appearance of the setting of the -table was not different from our own home tables; perhaps more flowers, -and more beautiful ones. I mention these details to show you that -dinners informal here do not vary much from the same in America. Our -pleasant evening with Mr. M. and his lovely family will long be -remembered. - -_Sunday, June 24th._--No London fog yet! We have had but one unpleasant -day since we have been here. To-day is simply perfect. There is a -‘shimmer’ about these lovely June mornings that can be felt but not -described. Out with the crowd of churchgoers go we, and, to the credit -of the English people be it said, they all go to church. We first went -to old St. Giles’. Here we saw the tomb of Milton. What a safe, homelike -feeling it brings us to hear in far-away lands our precious church -service. Somehow it gives us a sense of security, of encouragement, such -as a child in the dark feels, when he hears his mother’s voice. - -From St. Giles’ we wandered into a church near by, where a young man was -preaching to a large congregation. From his fine presence and good -voice, we hoped to hear also a good sermon--but were disappointed. He -seemed to suppose the Creator knew but little, and that it was his duty -to inform Him: he told Him of the needs of London, and especially of the -wants of his churchpeople. The only good part of the service was the -music. - -Later, we seated ourselves on a Thames steamer, which had evidently put -on its Sunday dress, and sailed up to Kew. I can give to you no -description of these beautiful gardens. They contain, I believe, the -largest conservatories in the world. The ferns and the palms were -forests of cool, green loveliness. The Victoria Regia lily is here, in -unsurpassed beauty. We wandered off into a shady, retired nook, and -seated ourselves on the grass, a lovely sheet of water in front of us, -birds trilling their vespers about us, and the myriads of blossoms -wafting to us their fragrant incense. It was all to us a sermon that -was good for us. ‘For thou, Lord, hast made me glad through thy works; -and I will rejoice in giving praise for the operations of thy hands.’ - -Next, we went by carriage to Richmond, a place of great historic -interest and attractions. The drive was beautiful. The distant views -were lovely. We passed many stately residences, surrounded by well-kept -grounds, ivy and flowers in abundance. But the English will build high -walls about their country homes, thus shutting themselves, oyster-like, -from the passers-by. These unsightly walls spoil what would without them -delight the eye. We stopped on Richmond Hill to see the beautiful views -from that elevation, and were well repaid. The river going on and on, -the meadows, the hills, the elms and the chestnuts throwing dark -shadows, the heaths and downs, the farm-houses and the mansions, Windsor -in the distance, and the peculiar mellowness of the whole landscape, -were worth the looking upon. At Hampton Court we took a look at the rich -tapestries and the paintings, including the ‘Hampton Court Beauties.’ -This old court has echoed to the footsteps of many kings and many noted -in history. Cardinal Wolsey fitted the place up in regal style, meaning -to give it the honor of his own presence, but King Henry looked on with -jealous, envious eyes, and asked him his reasons for having made so -costly a palace. The wily Cardinal was ingenious in his reply, -answering--‘To show how noble a palace a subject may offer to his king.’ -This palace is now used as a home by members of the nobility whose -incomes have been reduced. We spent a short time in the park and then -started toward London, a distance of twelve miles or more. We were -fortunate in securing front seats on a tally-ho coach, drawn by four -handsome gray horses. We stocked ourselves well with delicious fruit, -which the venders pass up to us on poles, temptingly arranged in little -baskets, and on we went over a beautiful road, through the glorious -Bushey Park, with its majestic elms and chestnuts. ‘O, we have no such -rural beauty as England!’ said I. ‘But we shall have when we are as -old,’ said my true American beside me. - -And that reminds me of what a gentleman at Leamington said, in answer to -my question, ‘How do you get the beautiful green your lawns wear?’ - -‘We only water the grass,’ he replied. - -‘But,’ said I, ‘we keep our American lawns well watered and they do not -look like yours.’ - -‘You forget, Madame, that we have watered ours for centuries,’ said he -with a smile. - -At last we enter the city, and drive through, through, through it, a -long, long way. Crowds of people in the streets, crowds in the parks, -crowds everywhere! Men are preaching on the corners, women singing, -members of the Salvation Army exhorting and praying, and at last we -reach our journey’s end safely. It is ten P.M., and yet not dark, so -long are these English twilights! - -_June 25th._--The third one of our trio has again joined us, much to our -satisfaction, and to-day we have been to the Crystal Palace, the -Zoological Gardens, and have accomplished one hundred and one other -things. In the palace there is much to be seen--pictures, sculpture, and -other works of art. To-day an unusual crowd had gathered there to -attend the concert in the large hall in the afternoon. We were fearful -we might not be able, owing to the jam, to see all we came for, and here -we desire to thank again the secretary of the association for his -kindness toward us. If the English gentlemen are all like those we have -come in contact with, I for one shall ever sing their praises. Here we -heard ‘The Messiah’ by the ‘Handel and Haydn’ society. Albani and -Lillian Norton were two of the artistes, which quite Americanized the -company, and all were almost perfect in their parts. In the evening -elaborate pyrotechnic displays were made, which with the colored lights -and fountains, the bands playing, a company of ballet dancers performing -out-of-doors, and the army of gayly dressed people, made it seem like -veritable fairy-land. It is all alluring, but we must turn our backs -upon it, as we have an invitation to ‘The Criterion’ to see Windom as -David Garrick. The play was well acted, and when over, a supper at a -fine restaurant near, where a choir of boys sang to us beautiful glees, -with their sweet voices, ended another enjoyable day. We have seen much -in London, and must leave much unseen, nor can I here tell you of the -half we have seen, but have given you some ideas of what I thought you -would best like to hear about. - -Of our trip to Brighton I believe I have not said a word, but will now -tell you a little about it, as it was different from any other. Brighton -is the largest and most fashionable of all English watering-places, but -as it is not yet the season there, the place had rather a deserted air. -It is a city of brick, and the houses look as if built to remain -forever, as does everything else in England. There is an esplanade of -solid stone, with promenades on top; on the one side of it is the beach -and sea, and on the other the large hotels and fine houses. A part of -every day’s programme is to dress in one’s best, and promenade up and -down the esplanade, but the promenaders all looked as solemn as if on -their way to a funeral. The ladies smiled not, and the men looked as if -they had iron pokers run up and down their backs, arms akimbo, heads -bent back to assist the glass over one eye to stay in place,--all quite -English, ‘you know.’ On the beach were plenty of ‘bathing machines,’ -which are really bathhouses on wheels, bath-chairs, and children with -their nurses, and in the surf a few bathers. The ladies seemed to have -more on than our water-nymphs at Narragansett Pier, and the gentlemen -apparently wore but little clothing; in fact, I was reminded of pictures -I used to see in my geography, of the costumes worn by natives in--well, -I think it was Africa; but they carried themselves, even in the water, -with dignity. Our drive back to London on a tally-ho was delightful. - -We have been favored here with pleasant weather, but I can imagine how -grim and black certain parts of the city would look, in bad. They use -much coal here, and, as everywhere else, it leaves its mark. We have -seen the best of London, and we have had glimpses of her rich citizens -and of her poor. There are many rich families here, because their wealth -has been inherited, just as the poor have inherited their poverty. -Families here keep in about the same groove that their ancestors did -before them. The Queen is greatly beloved, and we all know she is a good -woman and a gracious sovereign. Of the Prince of Wales, also, I hear -many good things. But why should there be such a thing as ‘royalty?’ How -much better and higher is the code of self-government, than servile -obedience to any king or queen, human beings like ourselves. I could not -breathe freely as a citizen of a country where son of mine could not -take the highest place in the nation, if he were worthy of it and the -people’s choice. Thank God that ‘in the land of the free,’ our own -America, we can be whatever we make ourselves, and not what the accident -of birth has made us. Of ‘Merrie England,’ however, I shall carry away -with me grateful remembrances of her people, and a score of memories of -the beautiful land itself, which will ever be a source of enjoyment to -summon. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER IV. - -JUNE 26, 1888. - - -From London to New Haven by rail, and there took steamer to cross the -English Channel. It was stormy and very rough, and nearly all but our -party succumbed to sea-sickness. We could not remain outside, the storm -was so severe, and the close proximity of the _mal-de-mer_ victims -proved a little contagious. The gong sounded for dinner, but I feared -dinner and my stomach would not agree, and remembering my determination -not to be sick, turned my back upon those that were, took a bright -little story, and soon got so interested in it that I entirely got over -my nearness to a capitulation. But we decided we liked the sea better -than the choppy Channel. - -We landed at Dieppe, and stepped upon French soil! We looked about the -queer old French town with our usual enthusiasm and curiosity, and then -proceeded to Rouen. Had three hours there. We dined in the garden of our -inn, on a table in an arbor covered with yellow roses of a peculiarly -sweet fragrance. The people looked at us with as much wonderment in -their faces as we at them. And what a bedlam their clatter makes to be -sure. Well for us that our escort can understand every language under -the sun--good, bad, or indifferent. We took a carriage and were driven -about the town. We went inside of three cathedrals, and we saw the spot -where Joan of Arc was burned. The streets of the old town are very -narrow, the houses queer and foreign. All of the women and children -seemed to be sitting out of doors, with knitting work in hand. They wear -little close caps and wooden shoes, and the skin of the women looks like -shrivelled leather. I am told that the lower class of the citizens of -Dieppe are very superstitious, that they believe, if the souls of those -drowned are not prayed for by their living relatives, at every -midnight, for one year, a terrible storm will arise, and the ghosts of -the departed appear to them. - -At four P.M. we took train for Paris, running through a pretty country, -with fields of red poppies and large orchards of cherry trees, red with -ripe fruit. We bought them at every station, and most delicious were -they. The many hamlets or clusters of little thatched cottages, so very -close together, looked at least social. - -At eleven P.M. our train rolled into the station in the city of Paris; -and such a babel! Why will these people chatter so fast? We had no -trouble with our trunks, and with them were immediately driven to our -engaged apartments, in Rue Clement Marot, where we are to remain during -our stay. The name of the street has the right sound, at any rate, for -Marot was not only a poet but a philosopher, and his philosophy we may -need in ‘doing’ Paris. - -_Paris, Wednesday, June 27th, 1888._--Our hostess and her family have -given us a cordial welcome, and we already feel quite at home. Our -apartments are convenient and prettily furnished, and we are to be very -happy here, I am sure. Our journey of yesterday tempted me to sleep late -this morning, but F---- let in the bright daylight, with an exclamation -of disapprobation at time in Paris being spent in slumber. So I was soon -ready, feeling like ‘a new top,’ for the day’s whirl. We have here, -served early in our rooms, or in the breakfast room, as we choose, rolls -and coffee. At noon we have ‘déjeuner à la fourchette;’ at five, tea; -and at seven a sumptuous dinner. A sweet young lady from Beverly and -several New Yorkers are of the household, so we make a pleasant family -party. We are near the Champs Elysées, and this part of the city is -beautiful--broad, fine streets shaded with trees. We took an early drive -in this vicinity, and were later left at the Salon, spending several -hours there. What a bewildering collection of pleasing pictures! I do -love these paintings of lovely faces, of home scenes, of restful bits of -scenery, by these modern artists. We so feel them; we comprehend them; -they gladden the heart as well as the eye. The painting which won the -first prize this year was a battle-piece by D’Etaille. I recall a -picture at the Metropolitan Museum, in New York, by this same artist. -Meissonier had been his teacher, and he had also been chosen to award -the prizes, but when he attempted to address this man, his successful -pupil, he could not speak, and impulsively threw his arms about him and -burst into tears and kissed him. Surely there was no envy there. We have -seen many of Meissonier’s pictures here, and they are all wonderful in -their exactness to nature. His portraits are very life-like, and one -almost sees the blood go and come under the skin, so natural are the -flesh-tints. Pictures, like poems, must be read to be appreciated. But -to me, the most that I have seen of Turner’s I should label ‘Sanscrit,’ -not being able to read them. For instance, the one called ‘Tapping the -Furnace:’ I searched in vain in it for any object that looked like a -furnace, and I thought of the story I had heard of the farmer’s wife, -whose city cousin took her to see paintings in London. She looked at -Turner’s ‘The Day after the Deluge’--put on her spectacles, and read the -title: ‘Well! I should think it wur,’ said she and passed on. Great -minds possess an intuition by which they can see farther into things -than ordinary minds can, and such minds probably understand and admire -Turner. - -On the river Seine are hundreds of little steamers plying up and down, -from which one gets good views of the river’s banks. From one we were -much amused to see how the washing of Paris is done. The washerwomen -bring their clothes to the river and wade in quite a distance, and rub -them in the muddy-looking water. We saw old women, pretty girls, and -children all thus at work. I cannot imagine what keeps them from having -rheumatism, neuralgia, and all the diseases that flesh is heir to. How -linen can be made to look white in such water I do not understand, and -yet some which we had laundered, and returned to us this morning, was -immaculate--white skirts and furbelows included, all for two francs a -dozen. - -We stepped from our steamer on shore, near Notre Dame, and entered this -cathedral, which, from pictures and descriptions familiar to us, seemed -quite like an old acquaintance. The exterior is a regular cruciform, -with an octagon end. At the other extreme are two lofty square towers, -and back of them a spire, surmounted with a gilt cross. The outside is -also adorned with some massive statues. The multitude of statues, of -bas-reliefs, of beautiful sculpture, in the interior of the building, is -wonderful in design, richness and beauty. The subjects are mostly from -church history. There are many statues of the Virgin and Child, and the -expressions of all are angelic and peaceful, and yet each one greatly -differs from the rest. The face of St. Martin, who is represented in the -act of sharing his mantle with a beggar, to protect him from the cold, -is heavenly in its sweetness and beauty, and one turns again and again -to look at it. Some of the subjects, however, are not as pleasing or as -helpful. The Last Judgment is portrayed in three parts: the second scene -represents the separation of the righteous from the sinners, but the -faces of the ‘elect’ had such a victorious, triumphant, ‘I told you so’ -look, as they gazed down upon their condemned brothers and sisters, that -my sympathies were entirely with the sinners, and I thought I should -rather have cast my lot with them. Amongst the sculptures of the Arch is -a remarkable one of the Saviour trampling the wicked under His feet, and -motioning to Satan to drag them off to hell. This is not our idea of the -Saviour, who has said, ‘Come unto me,’ and ‘There shall be one fold and -one Shepherd.’ The sacristy of the cathedral consists of a lofty hall -(all of the large churches of Europe have sacristies and treasuries, in -which are kept the valuables belonging to the church) and in this one we -saw wealth untold. Church utensils, mitres, crosses, crosiers, swords, -and many other articles, studded with precious stones, dazzling in their -splendor. The robes which were worn by Pius VII. at the coronation of -Napoleon I. were exhibited to us: they were very richly embroidered with -silver and gold. A statue, as large as life, of the Virgin and Child, -made of solid silver, is also here. - -We next went to the church of St. Eustache. The altar of this church is -exceedingly high, and composed of pure white marble, exquisitely -sculptured, and the church also contains fine frescoes. Took a glance -at the church of St. Germaine, which was the favorite place of worship -of the Empress Eugénie. Also took in St. Chappelle, where we heard some -soul-stirring music. All of these cathedrals are rich in stained glass, -and are of immense proportions and varied beautiful architecture. - -Feeling that we could not comprehend the wonders of any more churches in -one day, we changed our train of thoughts to justice, by going through -the Palais de Justice and into several other handsome public buildings. -My eyes were brightened, also, by a look at the glitter of brilliant -gems in the shops of the Palais Royal, although the other wise minds -thought time thus spent a waste. ‘Stores enough in New York and Boston,’ -they said; but oh, not such stores! How bright, how tempting the -contents of those windows were! The shopkeepers of Paris think all -Americans millionaires, and under some circumstances it might be -flattering to be thus considered, but in shopping in Paris it is -unfortunate, as in many stores here I am sure they advance the price of -articles when an American seems to wish to purchase. I very much -desired to obtain an odd little pin in one of the shops, but found it -much dearer than I expected. The next day the daughter of my hostess -secured it for me for about half the amount they valued it at when they -thought _I_ wished to buy it. But this is not the principle of all the -stores, by any means. - -The cabs of Paris are a great convenience. They are cheap to employ, and -are handsome and most comfortable, much the shape of our Victorias. They -use good, well-kept looking horses, well harnessed, and the _cochers_ -are attentive and polite. For all of this one has only to pay one franc -to be carried anywhere within the city limits, or two persons can ride -one hour for two francs. When I think of my carriage bills at home, in -the party season especially, I feel like staying in Paris--and riding on -forever--it is such a great pleasure for so little money. - -During the day, we secured tickets for the opera this evening, but there -were as many forms to go through with as we have for the inauguration of -the President of the United States, and when the desired articles are -at last transferred to the purchasers’ hands, at the rate of five -dollars apiece, they are so cumbrous that one needs a valet to carry -them. Our own method of going to the ticket window and quickly securing -our little pieces of pasteboard, for half the money, is much better. -After a fully appreciated dinner at home we arrayed ourselves for the -entertainment, knowing better than to go in street costume, or with -bonnets on, this time. Our box was a lower one, in the centre of the -row, and from which we had a fine opportunity of seeing the audience and -the beautiful interior of this house. It is simply magnificent. The -decorations are rich, light, and cheerful. The vestibule and stairways -are gorgeous and dazzling. About the halls and corridors are placed -tables, where between acts the ladies and gentlemen sit, and sip cool -drinks and ices, chatting and laughing as if life were all a gala day. -All are in full dress, and the ladies’ gowns are exquisitely made and -worn; low corsages, with diamond necklaces clasped around the throats of -the fair wearers, predominate. As these French ladies and their -dark-moustached escorts promenade over the white marble stairs to the -strains of the sweet music, it is a gay and festive scene. We watched, -with much interest and admiration, one very beautiful girl, the very -loveliest of them all, and how delighted we were when we heard her -speak, and found her to be an American. The opera was ‘L’Africaine,’ and -was gorgeously set and grandly rendered. It was one A.M. when we reached -home, but our kind hostess was waiting for us, to have the pleasure, as -she said, of serving us with strawberries and cream. - -By the way, such delicious cherries, strawberries, raspberries, and -apricots as we have here do not grow in America. The market women drag -the fresh, luscious fruits in wagons through the streets, and for a few -sous one gets his fill. - -_Thursday, June 28, 1888._--Another morning spent in the Salon, and I -wish we could have had time to have given the entire day there. We -lingered before our favorite pictures, and at last turned reluctantly -away from them, as from living friends. Spent the next hour at the -Trocadero and its beautiful garden. The hall in the ‘Palace of the -Trocadero’ will seat 10,000 people. The aquarium and museum connected -are of much interest. Some of the statuary and sculpture are so -beautiful that it seems impossible that human hands could have carved -the speaking faces from blocks of marble. It is opposite here that the -Exposition of 1889 is to be held. Museums in Paris are as thick as plums -in a Thanksgiving pudding. Going toward the Madeleine, we stopped in the -flower-market; tables and baskets were piled with flowers,--tons of -them--cut flowers, and potted plants in bloom, and selling for a ‘mere -song’ compared with home prices. We have so often looked eagerly in the -florists’ windows on Tremont Street, just wishing and longing for even -one jacquiminot, but when that took a dollar we had often to be -satisfied with looking. ‘And now,’ said F., ‘we will have all we want; -we will wear them, and smell them, to our hearts’ content, and is not -Paris delightful, and what a good time we are having!’ Loaded with sweet -blossoms, we strayed into the Madeleine, and seated ourselves just as a -bridal party was entering the other aisle. We were uninvited but -sympathetic guests. The bride looked very young, with a pretty face and -figure, and a confiding, trustful manner; and when the groom, rather a -distinguished-looking Frenchman, took her hand, and promised to love and -cherish always, our hearts and lips cried Amen! We hope this little -bride chose her own husband, for husbands, here, we are told, are -generally selected by the parents of the girls for them, and they rarely -rebel. Nearly all marriages among the wealthy class are ‘mariages de -convenance.’ Indeed, a young girl here has a sorry sort of a time of it -before she is married; she cannot be alone with gentlemen long enough to -know whom she would like to choose for a husband, and consequently is -more willing to accept submissively the one chosen for her, for marriage -brings to her more freedom, liberty of action, and pleasure. - -Since here, we invited a French lady to go to an entertainment with us. -She accepted, but came to us later to apologize and decline, as she -found herself obliged to chaperone her daughter, who was going to a -garden party with Monsieur M., and of course could not go with a man -alone. ‘Why, what is the matter with her man? Is he a lunatic?’ said F. -‘I went shopping alone yesterday, and asked information about the shops -and streets of several of the genus, and they all seemed sane and -gentlemanly.’ ‘Yes,’ was the lady’s reply, ‘they knew you to be an -American, and American girls can do as they please here, unmolested, for -they have always so respected themselves that all respect them.’ We were -glad of the compliment for our countrywomen. The new-made wife and -husband, with bridesmaids and ‘assistants’ (as they term, here, the -ushers) and their friends, passed from the church, with our best wishes. -This noted church is Grecian in style. Its altars are of carved wood and -gold. The huge bronze doors have illustrations of the Ten Commandments -in bas-relief. The altar is richly sculptured, and one portion of it -represents angels bearing Magdalen to Paradise on their wings. Our good -escort lights candles in all churches we enter, and the longest ones -too, for the forgiveness of our sins, so I trust ere we leave this land -we may be immaculate. - -Out of the church, with all its holy sacredness and beauty, into the -sunlight and the brightness of the streets. A barouche is waiting for -us, in which we are soon seated, and rapidly dashing along on the -asphalt pavement of the most beautiful boulevard in the whole world, the -Champs Elysées. The avenue is broad, flanked with stately residences and -beautiful rows of elms and limes, and long shady parks. We sped along, -meeting showy equipages filled with gay people, behind high steppers -managed by light-colored costumed coachmen, with remarkably big buttons. -Many are on horseback, and the broad sidewalks are filled with happy -promenaders. Surely it was a merry sight, and all were enjoying it in -the rich atmosphere of this lovely June day. We paused, to see the Arc -de Triomphe, then passed under it to the Bois de Boulogne, a lovely park -and driveway, with lakes, cool groves, fountains, cascades, rustic -houses and seats, and everything beautiful to make it what it is, a -delightful resort. We alighted, sailed about the lake in a -Cleopatra-like barge, sat at a vine-covered table, and drank the sweet -milk that a pretty, black-eyed milkmaid brought to us fresh from her -cow, and felt that this was our ‘life’s holiday.’ - -A lady, a Bostonian too, but whose home has been here for several years, -said to me to-day: ‘And so you live in Boston. Why, it makes me blue to -even think of Boston, with its stiff society, its spectacled women, and -its doleful teas!’ But I could not agree with her. Another lady, now -living here, a woman of wealth and rare intelligence, told me that she -spent a year in Boston, and that repeatedly she had been a guest at -small parties and large ones, where she had not been introduced to any -one of the assemblage. Such a neglect, in the best society of Europe, -would be considered a great breach of politeness or a marked rudeness. -Here, all persons invited to meet at the house of a friend consider it -almost obligatory to speak with each other, if by chance or oversight -they are not presented, and it is the custom for the hostess of an -invited company to have her daughters and their young lady friends move -amongst the guests, to see that all are introduced, and are having a -pleasant, enjoyable time. - -Shall I tell you our menu for dinner to-night? It will be, I am sure, -rather different from your own. But at our Paris home everything is -deliciously cooked and served, and E. says we had better make the most -of it; food will not be as temptingly prepared for us in Germany. First, -soup, followed by fish, cheese, and radishes, preserves and mustard, -roast beef and maccaroni, potatoes, chicken and salad, cake, -strawberries, cherries, and apricots, with wines of various kinds, all -followed by coffee. - -I forgot to tell you that in our drive to-day we met Sara Bernhardt; she -looked very bright and happy, and not at all the dying ‘Camille’ that -she was the last time my eyes gazed upon her. She has a fine home here, -and receives all who choose to call upon her one day each week. She is -charitable, helpful, and sympathetic to all, and the Parisians adore -her. - -_Paris, June 29th._--It rained to-day, for even in Paris it must -sometimes rain. We went to the galleries of the Louvre early, and were -so absorbed that we remained until 4 P.M. E., our escort to-day, once -lived six years in Paris, and the paintings in the Louvre were his old -friends, so that the information he gave us was of great instruction and -benefit. F., too, had been well drilled for the enjoyment by studying -the old masters and by her readings of the schools of early art. Not -being an artist myself like my two companions, I could scarcely enter -their sphere of enjoyment, or see with their eyes, so looked in my own -way. This, you know, is the largest gallery in the world, and contains -the most of the valuable works of all the great masters, Rubens, -Raphael, Murillo, Titian, Rembrandt, Claude Lorraine, Paul Veronese, and -other world-renowned artists. The works of no artist are placed here -until the artist himself has been dead ten years or more; they are -retained in the Luxembourg galleries during the life of the painter. E. -wished us to take certain pictures of Rubens first, of which artist he -has great knowledge and a keen appreciation. He says it is impossible -for us to see best many pictures in a short time, so we must take the -best pictures and see them in many ways. The allegorical pictures -relating to Marie de Medici were our first study, but the angels were -very unangelic-looking to me. Each one looked as if tipping the scales -at two hundred pounds would be an easy matter. In fact, all of Rubens -women that I have so far seen look more earthly than spiritual. These -pictures bring up many thoughts of the hapless Marie de Medici, a woman -of great beauty, and of Richelieu, the intriguing, powerful Cardinal, -whose influence was so great over the King, her son, Louis XIII. This -woman, Rubens so often painted, died at last, after the implacability of -Richelieu caused her to be banished from France, in the attic of the -house where Rubens was born, in Cologne. The Salon Carré contains the -great treasures of the Louvre, or the most of them. Here we saw the -indeed beautiful painting of Mary Anointing the Feet of Jesus, and the -even more wonderful one of The Marriage Feast at Cana, both by Paul -Veronese. I cannot imagine a human mind even conceiving such a picture, -much more putting it on canvas. It is simply perfect. Titian’s works -have a great charm for me, and Raphael’s, also. We roam from room to -room; my delighted companions turn their attentions to me often with -remarks of this nature: ‘Now do look at this; it is one of the great -works of the world.’ ‘You remember this happened in the reign of King or -Queen So-and-so.’ ‘You recollect the story in the Old Testament of ----,’ -and so forth and so on! I look; say, Oh yes! Am sometimes a little -inwardly muddled, but quietly decide to know for myself what I honestly -like best. Of all the Madonnas, I like Murillo’s the most. His colors, -not as positive as those of Rubens, are warm, deep, and rich, with a -certain peculiar softness of finish that no other artist has. Surely -genius is God-given. We made no attempt to see the antiquities this -time, but could not leave without paying our respects to the most -beautiful of all women--the Venus de Milo. Our ever-gallant escort says, -‘No;’ no woman can be the most beautiful to him, who cannot extend her -arms to greet him; but beautiful she is. A whole day in the Louvre, and -yet comparatively how little of it have we seen. This evening we saw -‘Adrienne Lecouvrer’ played at the Comédie Française. - -_Saturday, June 30th._--The sun shone for us brightly again this -morning, and we took an early drive through the always attractive -streets and parks of Paris. Early as it was, crowds of people were to be -seen, driving, walking, and sitting in the ‘sidewalk cafés,’ and under -the trees, chatting, laughing, and everybody seeming to have plenty of -leisure time. How is it that no one appears to be in a hurry here? One -reason that the ladies have so much more time is because their -housekeeping cares are so much less than those of Americans. Always, all -of the laundry work is sent out, and much of the cooking of a household -is done outside: bread, pastry, cakes, and roasts are prepared in -special establishments, and sent hot and deliciously cooked to private -tables, without a suggestion of ‘bakehouse’ flavor about them. The -servants, or one of them does all the ‘planning’ and the marketing, -rendering her accounts to her mistress weekly. Everything connected -with the domestic part of a Paris home runs very smoothly, and with much -less care and expense than in Bostonian homes. I remember once visiting -a dear, busy, neat, systematic young housekeeper at her home in a -country town in New England. One Monday morning her maid of all work -overslept, and we heard this wide-awake, orderly mistress call her, -saying, ‘Katie, get up; why, it is seven o’clock now, and to-day is -washing day, to-morrow will be ironing day, and the next day baking.’ -There are no such days in Paris! And I should think Parisians would say, -‘For which we devoutly give thanks.’ - -The gardens of the Tuileries brought up thoughts of Eugénie, who used to -love the spot so well. The once-beautiful Empress whom the French people -followed is now never mentioned, not even a picture of her seen in Paris -windows; and once when I spoke of her to a dealer in photographs, asking -why he had not a picture of her, he answered, ‘Remember Sedan.’ - -The long walk in the cool, crisp air made us hungry, and seeing some -neatly prepared tables near we seated ourselves for a luncheon. The -bouillon was good, and the chop fairly so, and the charges reasonable we -thought, but when the bill was presented we were charged extra for -service, for the napkins we used, and for the chairs we sat on. I asked -the garçon why they did not charge for the air we breathed. Moral! -Always make your bargains in Paris before consummating them. - -The Luxembourg was near, and we spent most of the rest of the day in its -galleries. Some of the masterpieces of Rosa Bonheur, Gerome, Couture and -Meissonier are here. To see Cabanel’s Venus was of itself a great -delight. I remember seeing the portrait of Miss Wolf, in the -Metropolitan Art Museum, in New York, painted by this same Alexander -Cabanel. There are two of Henner’s pictures here, one exquisitely -lovely. He is considered one of the best living painters of the nude; -his figures are remarkably graceful and modest, poetical studies of the -flesh; and it is often an intense delight and relief to turn toward -them, from the nudes of some other artists. We have seen his works also -in several private collections, and wherever there is a Henner there is -always a crowd, so lovely are they. One characteristic of them we -observed, namely, that in every picture of his that we have seen his -figures are not far from a lake, brook, or river, with the figure -partially hid by shrubbery and trees, and one of our trio said that he -was forcibly reminded of the old nursery rhyme,-- - - “‘Mother, may I go out to swim?’ - ‘Yes, my darling daughter; - Hang your clothes on a hickory limb-- - But don’t go near the water!’” - -A stroll in the beautiful gardens of the Luxembourg, and a visit to the -Jardin des Plantes, with its botanical, mineralogical, and geological -museums, and a visit to the monkeys--the cutest of all -monkeys,--finished the day; and to-night we are to dine with a duchess. -How fortunate we have a ‘noble’ escort. Otherwise, although we did ‘come -over in the Mayflower,’ we might not have been called upon by, and -invited to dine with, the Duke and Duchess de la R---- at their chateau -near San Cloud. - -Some of the customs here seem very odd to us. After a couple are -married, they go to drive about the city; the wealthier class in their -own carriages, the less wealthy in hired ones, and the poor on foot, but -all arrayed in the wedding dress, with veil and the orange flowers. We -met eight brides in one afternoon’s drive, and we have seen many others -in the different museums and galleries. The French are indeed a -pleasure-loving people. Every green spot, and they are legion, here is -bright with life. Lovely children are out in great numbers with their -dark-eyed, handsome _bonnes_. These nurses are very picturesque, with -their white-frilled turbans on, from which hang lengths of broad white -ribbon nearly to their feet. The babies themselves are generally -costumed in the richest of laces, and often look uncomfortably loaded -down with the big white hats even the tiniest of them wear, well covered -with ostrich plumes. All seem to enjoy life--the middle classes and the -poor in their own way as entirely as the rich in theirs. The parks and -numerous gardens are filled with women sitting about with work or book -in hand, seemingly perfectly contented with their condition and -beautiful surroundings. They wander into the cathedrals and picture -galleries at will, and surely such constant familiarity with beauty and -art must have a refining influence. Of these poorer people, who have -really been taught nothing, some have more knowledge of art than many -Americans who have studied it. I, one morning, asked my chambermaid to -assist me in wrapping up a few photographs I had in my room. In doing so -she told me I ought to get Murillo’s ‘Birth of the Virgin’ and Titian’s -‘Holy Family,’ and recommended several art stores as excellent places to -select photographs and etchings. The many and great variety of -exhibitions of pictures here, offer instruction to all and are a -constant spur to one’s ambition. The Parisians should be thanked by the -people of every nation for throwing open their public institutions to -all classes to enter ‘without money and without price.’ Paris thus gives -freely to all who will accept a liberal education. The Comédie Française -and the Conservatoire of Music and Acting give free instruction to all -who have talent sufficient to be admitted. With the French people’s love -for the beautiful, with their especial love for Paris, with their -seeming contentment of position, with their hospitality and their -never-failing politeness as we now see them, it does not seem possible -that in times of rebellion and riot they so lose themselves as to burn -and destroy that they have so dearly loved, and that they become -disloyal and unreasonable toward each other. The burning of the -Tuileries in 1871 was an exhibition of their insanity in times of -excitement. - -Here is my Paris edition of the _New York Herald_. I bless James Gordon -Bennett every time I take up this little paper, so grateful am I to him -for it. After struggling with French conversation, French books, French -signs, French everything, all the day, it is a delight to me to see my -own language in print, to see American news, and often to see the name -of some one I know or know of. Oh, we do not realize how dear America is -to us until we are far from her shores. - -_Paris, Sunday, July 1st._--And so the month dedicated to Juno is -really gone. A month filled with joys has it been to us! It does not -seem possible that it can be July. It has been so cool here,--cool and -bright, just the weather for tramps. - -First of all, dear, I must tell you a little of our dinner with the -Duchess last night. How I did wish you were with me, and how every hour -you are in loving thought and memory with me everywhere. I know just -what you will do to-day. But no one will ever know all the kind acts you -perform, all the sacrifices you make, save the recording angels. We gave -considerable time to our toilettes last evening, even to having a French -hairdresser. F. looked ‘smart’ in her Wörth-made pink gown, and in -French conversation did us all credit. Only two of the sixteen guests -spoke English, beside our host and hostess and ourselves. We were not -only cordially received, but affectionately. Our hostess was charming in -face and grace, and her husband not far behind. The halls, dining-rooms, -and salon of the house were immense, with polished floors, and rugs, and -the woodwork and furniture of the latter in white and gold. Everything -was massive and stately, but with a cheerful, bright effect. The menu -consisted of fourteen courses, served table d’hôte. The hostess was -first helped, then the oldest lady at the table, and so on, down to the -youngest lady present. Then the gentlemen in the same manner. I should -think this custom would sometimes puzzle the waiters to know whom first -to serve. The table was decorated with flowers, and the cumbrous gold -candelabra were, with the gold service, very imposing. There was not an -article of silver on the table. Every utensil was gold, china, or glass. -It is a great error to suppose that, because Frenchwomen love dress and -pleasure, they are not devoted mothers, true wives, and intelligent -companions. Of course there are exceptions, and so there are in all -countries. Our little party of last night was unusually bright, -intelligent, and familiar with American history, her institutions, and -her literature. They thought our language the hardest of all languages -to comprehend or to speak. They referred to our many words ending with -‘gh,’ and each one pronounced so entirely differently. A gentleman who -had been in New York said, if a business was to be _stopped_ there they -‘wound it up,’ if clocks were to _go_ they wound them up. Strings were -wound up, and he one day received a telegram from the wife of a friend -whom he expected to meet, which read thus: ‘Henry is wound up for the -day; hopes to see you to-morrow.’ Did not know whether Henry was -‘stopped’ or ‘going,’ but understood later that he was indisposed. They -asked us many questions about our own city, and one lady told me that -she read in a paper that not long ago a man was imprisoned for preaching -on Boston Common, but she supposed it was a mistake, as such a thing -could scarcely have taken place in a free country. After dinner we had -music and dancing, and bade our entertainers ‘Bon soir,’ having had a -delightful evening with them, and feeling that the nice points of the -social code, with dukes and duchesses, are not much different from our -own. - -Sunday in Paris is a great contrast to our New England Sunday. People go -to church, to be sure, but they go to the theatre after if they wish -to, and think it all right. It is the one great day for families to go -into the parks and the woods and the gardens near the city. The larger -shops are closed, not because it is Sunday, but because one day in the -week is demanded by the employees for rest and recreation. Theatres, -circuses, and hundreds of places of amusement are open, and are all -thronged, notwithstanding the great exodus into the suburbs. One can -hardly blame clerks and working people, who are in cages, as it were, -every other day, for taking Sunday to see the green hills, breathe the -country air, and gather flowers with their little ones, for Monday puts -them in harness again. Going to places of amusement on Sunday is not -just our way, but we are not here to criticise. - -After early service in the American Church we took a boat up the Seine -for St. Cloud, where have lived many kings of France. The palace where -Eugénie, in the height of her popularity, so magnificently entertained, -has never been rebuilt since its destruction in the siege of 1870. We -sat on the broad, handsome steps which had led to the palace, with the -leafy avenues of the parks before us, over which the lovely Eugénie, -with her imperial husband, and the ladies of her court, clad in their -costumes of the chase, had many times cantered. Here they entertained, -at certain seasons, sovereigns, princes of the blood, ambassadors, and -‘lords and ladies of high degree,’ and everything that could be devised -or money procure was placed before them for their pleasure. Music, -games, dancing, and feasting went on--and the people paid for it. -Although there never was and never could be the slightest unfavorable -criticism upon the moral life of the Empress, her intense love of -gayety, admiration, dress, and power caused her to forget the thousands -of suffering poor so near her. Had she given more thought to them, with -a helping hand, she could so easily have made their dark days less so. -Beauty of person and power are rare gifts, but if they so dazzle as to -make dim the more divine gift of a charitable heart and hand, they are -to be undesired, and-- - - ‘It were better to be lowly born - And range with humble lives in content.’ - -But the golden-haired, sweet-faced Empress, in her green riding habit, -with the flowing white plumes in her hat, rides on under the arches of -these beautiful linden trees, and is gone from our thoughts, and the -memory of a gray-haired, childless widow in Chiselhurst rises before us. -God help her! The fountains and cascades here, scintillating in the rays -of the sun this bright morning, are beautiful, and the walks about are -superb. We went to the very top of the hill, and were well repaid by the -admirable views of Paris, the Seine, and the surrounding scenery. - -Our long tramp made us hungry, so we turned our footsteps toward the -café at the gate. The tables inside looked very attractive, but my -comrades thought the ones outside more so, so we seated ourselves at one -in a vine-covered arbor, for dinner table d’hôte. We have got so used to -eating out-of-doors--in arbors in the country, and on pavements in -town,--that you need not be surprised if I, some Sunday morning, invite -you to baked beans and brown bread on the curbstones of the Oxford, and -every bean served as a course. - -The town of St. Cloud is built on the slope of the hill. The streets are -very narrow, and the stores to-day are all open and well filled. -Wandering about, I was attracted by the sound of music in a -quaint-looking little church and stepped in. Upon coming out, my -companions were nowhere visible. I sat down in a conspicuous place on -some steps, to wait for them to find me. A richly dressed Frenchman -walked past me several times. I felt that I was the object of his -gaze--so looked in every direction but toward him, for here let me say -that the French are really prolonged starers, notwithstanding their -uniform courtesy and politeness. My imagination got the better of me, -and I prepared for battle, trying to think of annihilating names in -French, that I might call him should he dare address me, and looking at -the strong handle of my parasol with renewed confidence. Secondly, I -thought it might be good policy to pretend to be deaf and dumb--yes, -should he speak, I will really put my finger to my ears and my mouth -and he will think I am a dummy, planned I. Thus, with a reinforced -feeling of safety and victory, I looked squarely up at him. Imagine my -surprise when he raised his hat, and in fair English said: ‘Pardon me, -but are you not Mrs. ---- of Boston?’ It was Monsieur C----, who formerly -taught French in my family. I need not tell you that I gave him a -vigorous Yankee hand-shaking. He left America a year ago to take -possession of an inherited property. Moral: Consider every man, -everywhere, a gentleman, until you have proof that he is not. A -Frenchman never sits when a lady in his presence stands, nor does he -ever smoke or expectorate in a lady’s presence. Do the Americans? A -French lady asked me, and I had to say with humility, ‘Yes.’ After this -little incident my friends appeared, more worried about me than I about -them, and we soon took ‘top seats’ on steam-cars and were carried to -Versailles. - -The gardens of Versailles are superior in beauty to any others that I -have seen. I wish I could give you a good idea of them, as they appear -to me this lovely day. Beautiful trees, shrubs, flowers of every size, -fragrance, and color, orangeries, conservatories, palms, ferns, lakes, -vine-covered seats, shaded walks, arbors, statues, grottoes cool and -mossy, cascades, and the large fountains playing, with the Palace -beyond, and the blue sky above it all--were indeed worth seeing. Linger -longer outside we would like to, but the big, huge Palace is before us, -and we must see a little of its contents. The galleries, or rooms, are -of vast size, and are filled with paintings, sculpture, bric-a-brac, -tapestries, and articles of intense historical interest. The State -apartments, the living rooms of kings and queens, the theatre, and the -chapel, with their frescoes and paintings, are a delight to us. In a -suite of eleven rooms are pictures illustrating all the most noted -events in the history of France. A white marble statue of the Duke of -Orleans is very beautiful and remarkably graceful. We also noticed a -fine statue of Joan of Arc. The chamber of Louis XIV. is absorbingly -interesting, and is one of the gems of the Palace. The ceiling was -painted by Paul Veronese, and was brought here by Napoleon I. from -Venice. It represents Jupiter punishing Crime, and is of itself a day’s -study, and more. The furniture and decorations of the room are rich and -grand, said to be about as when the ‘Grand Monarque’ died in the room, -entirely against his intentions and inclinations. The bedstead upon -which he breathed his last, with the same hangings and coverlid, are -here. It is a two-story one, and we wonder how he ever got on to it with -any degree of dignity. This magnificent apartment of Louis Quatorze, -peopled with ghosts of his time, brought to us many thoughts. This -place, under his management, was made grand and beautiful, but at the -cost of crippling the treasury of France and exciting discontent amongst -her already overtaxed people, and it was not for their enjoyment, but -for his own and his satellites’. In the queen’s card room the painted -ceiling, by Le Brun, represents France, dispensing peace and abundance -_to all_. What a mockery! At this very time, while royalty at Versailles -was sipping wine from cups of gold, the hunger of the poor outside was -beginning to make them mad. The painting of the marriage of Louis XIV. -with Maria Theresa, and some of the battle pieces, are fairly well done. -All that one has ever read of the greatness of Louis XIV., the evil of -Louis Quinze, and the horrors of the Revolution, comes to one’s mind at -Versailles. It seems to me that nowhere else could one so thoroughly -feel and comprehend France,--her history and her changes. We saw the -room in which Louis Quinze died alone, of small-pox, just as if he had -never been a king. We saw the narrow passage where the beautiful Marie -Antoinette went through to escape the fury of the Parisian mob, while -the brave, noble Swiss Guards were cut down like grass. We thought of -her standing on the balcony, between her innocent little ones, crying in -vain to the howling throng for mercy; and yet Louis XVI., although a -weak king, did not mean to be a bad one. F. says, her sympathy aroused -for the ill-fated family, ‘How horrid the people were!’ Yes; but let not -the name of Marie Antoinette make us forget the rights of the -long-suffering and wronged people. These rulers were living in -profligacy and luxury: the people, many of them, were in a starving -condition, made so by the exorbitant demands upon them by Louis. Justice -was not given them, and they took it, and the forced necessity of such -terrible work made them maniacs. We feel sorry for mistaken royalty, and -more sorry for the innocent, but let us go out into the beautiful -gardens of Versailles, and see there the multitude enjoying its -delights, instead of a few kings and queens, and be thankful. The palace -and its gems are educators for them, and the gardens a place of rest, -and may they ever thus remain. It was at Versailles that ‘good Queen -Vic’ was royally entertained by Louis Napoleon, and it was also here -that Emperor William was, later, crowned King of Prussia. - -A hasty visit to Great and Little Trianon ended our day at Versailles. -The first named was built by Louis XIV. for Madam de Maintenon, and -although we had about had our fill of luxury, we grew enthusiastic over -the Malachite Hall and the mosaics and bronzes we here saw. The Little -Trianon, Louis XV. gave to Madame du Barry. Here we saw the old state -carriages and harnesses. Madame du Barry’s carriage, in which she used -to take her airings, cost 60,000 francs, and on state occasions she -carried a bouquet of diamonds, which Louis had made for her at a cost of -300,000 francs. She had also a dressing-stand of gold studded with gems, -and two cupids held a crown of diamonds above it, so made that whenever -the owner looked into the mirror this crown was reflected as if resting -upon her own head. This is an example of the way the revenues of France -were then expended. Is it any wonder that there was a revolution? - -An open carriage took us to the station, and again we took our places, -on top of a steam-car, for Paris. This would be a delightful way of -riding if only the engine would be sufficiently polite to turn its smoke -in another direction than our faces. We had a fine view of the city and -its suburbs as we approached it, and with dirty faces, tired feet, and -our hands filled with French wild flowers and grasses, we reached Paris; -and the ever-convenient cab soon landed us in Clement Marot. A friend -had sent us tickets for the theatre, but we decided that we would spend -the evening in the pretty drawing-room of our hostess and make it as -nearly like a Sunday evening at home as possible. One of our number -remarked how fortunate no one of our party has felt at all homesick. A -bunch arose in my throat, but I swallowed it down, and I have told no -one that often, when I think of the dear ones far away, longings for a -sight of their faces will creep in. - -_Monday, July 2d._--Galleries and churches are not open to visitors on -Mondays, so we planned for out-of-door sights to-day. The cheapness of -these little, open barouches make us feel able to ride at any time. I -wish I could take one home to Boston with me, cocher and all. We first -went to the Arc d’Etoile, for the second time, and ascended to the top, -for the views. It is said that the views from the Eiffel Tower, when -completed, will surpass anything gained elsewhere, but those from the -Arc d’Etoile are very grand. - -This huge, superb monument of Napoleon I. stands in a ‘round square’ -called the ‘Place d’Etoile.’ From this street twelve beautiful avenues -lead, somewhat like spokes from the hub of a wheel. Now imagine this, -and these streets built up with elegant residences, with pretty grounds -about them, and the avenues filled with showy turnouts and merry throngs -of people, promenading on the broad sidewalks, shaded by two rows of -magnificent trees, and you get a little idea, with the picture I send -you, of the Arc de Triomphe and its surroundings. The figures you see, -which will look small on paper, are, some of them, over twenty feet -high, representing Victory, Fame, etc. When we first walked under the -arch, F. said, ‘I think this is a good deal like walking under the body -of Jumbo,’--which experience we once had. - -From the Arch we were driven straight down the beautiful Avenue des -Champs Elysées to the Place de la Concorde, in which square stands the -obelisk, the gift of the Pacha of Egypt. Immense bronze fountains are in -the square, and large marble statues on pedestals, representing the -country’s largest cities, around it. It is a lovely, peaceful spot, this -glorious morning, with no signs of the terrible deeds that were once -enacted here. But here it was the guillotine stood and did its murderous -work. Here the rabble surged, crying for more blood. Here Charlotte -Corday, here Marie Antoinette, met death. And here heads were cut off at -the rate of forty or fifty a day; and men looked on, women sat about -with their knitting, occasionally saying, ‘Look, there goes another.’ - -Do not dwell upon such horrors! we will go and buy some ribbons! Our -first look into the Bon Marché. What a beautiful store it is, to be -sure. The largest in the world. How the bargains tempt us! The clerks -look bright and fresh, and are remarkably well dressed and intelligent -appearing. And they have reason to be--they are all partners of this -great money-making establishment, and time, opportunities, and means -given them for study. The little articles here, fans, ornaments, toilet -articles, handkerchiefs, gloves, etc., are irresistible, so pretty and -so cheap. In one apartment, cake, cookies, bread, crackers, wine, tea -and coffee, and the very best of their kind, are served to all who come, -gratuitously. Wanamaker’s store in Philadelphia, and Shepard & -Norwell’s, of Boston, are somewhat similar,--the first mentioned -comparing very favorably, the second not as extensive but conducted -partly on the same principle. - -Leaving the Bon Marché we knew we had got our money’s worth, but had -precious few coins left, so thought it a good time to see a little of -the poorer class of this rich-appearing city. So into the Latin quarter -are we driven. That sounds very intellectual and classical, but is -really the old and poorer part of Paris. Here the streets are narrow, -the men wear blue blouses, and the women look coarse and hard; -exceptions there are, certainly, but such the general appearance. - -Next, to Père La Chaise, the city of the dead. Much disappointed in its -appearance. Does not compare with our beautiful Forest Hills. The walks -are not well kept. Immortelles and shrivelled wreaths decorate the -graves, instead of fresh flowers. Numerous monuments are here, and some -very fine ones, but the most are costly without beauty. On the graves of -children we saw toys, dolls, wooden horses, etc. We saw Rachel’s -monument, and that of Abélard and Héloise, which is really beautiful. F. -said she always meant to make a pilgrimage to this spot, from pure -sympathy. We saw many names, on monuments, familiar to us from history; -but as a whole, everything is too mixed up for it to be considered a -beautiful cemetery. We saw a young girl bending over a grave in tears, -and our own fell for her. She left a wreath on the, to her, precious -earth, composed of white immortelles, with words made of the yellow -flowers embedded in the white, which read, as nearly as we could -translate, ‘To the loved man who was to have been my husband.’ That told -the sad story. We thought Victor Hugo rested here, but one of our trio -said no; at the Pantheon, he felt sure. ‘Well, he was a good and great -man enough to have had two burial places,’ said F. And so say we all of -us! - -We went to the Hippodrome this evening,--sort of a fashionable circus; -but not caring much for the entertainment, came out and walked about to -see a little of Paris by gaslight--and such a sight! The entire -population of the city seems to be poured into the streets. Bands of -music playing in the squares; the sidewalk cafés have their tables -surrounded with ‘evening dressed’ ladies and gentlemen. There are -illuminated swings, merry-go-rounds, inclined planes, roller skating -platforms, for the children, and all seeming to be respectably -conducted. Paris is a clean city; the streets are like a well-swept -floor all the time, no dirt to be seen. Two-thirds of the families live -in apartment houses. These are better arranged than our Boston flats. -The rooms are spacious, and no dark, windowless ones, as there is always -an open court in the centre, to admit light and air, and about the -windows facing these courts are balconies, pleasant to sit out on. The -courts are cultivated, and either have shrubbery and flowers growing, or -have grassy lawns, and this is all cared for by the landlords. The rents -are much lower, also, than with us. - -_Tuesday, July 3d._--Too quickly the days go by. The weather is so -deliciously fair and bright this morning that it is a joy to be alive. -Out into the sunshine we go, ‘not caring a sou where, if only these days -could last forever,’ said F. Yes, Paris is indeed fascinating, but we -must remember that life is not all a holiday, nor would we wish it to -be. We owe to our Maker something higher in aim and in good works. We -owe to our beloved country ourselves, and the help of our acts and -purposes. When human beings are born and bred in the same air, speak the -same tongue, it is a disloyal thing to turn faces from each other. -‘United we stand,’ We heard of a party of Americans finding difficulty -in entering Germany not long ago because they had no passports, so I -thought we had better fortify ourselves with the documents. Hunted up -the abode of the American Legation. Found the apartments to resemble the -rooms of a private family, more than those of business. We were duly -questioned, measured, and pen-portraits taken of us, and after a -sufficient amount of ‘red-tape delay,’ the desired papers were in our -hands. Very likely we shall not be obliged to use them, but they serve -to tell us how tall we are, and, better still, that my nose is straight, -which I never knew before. - -We next went to the Pantheon, which is something of a reproduction of -St. Peter’s at Rome, and is now devoted to receiving the remains of -great men who have merited the gratitude of France. The church was -formerly called the church of St. Geneviève, she having been the patron -saint of Paris. There are some beautiful frescoes here relating to her -life. The rich Corinthian columns, the marble groups, frescoes, and -bas-reliefs, are all an interesting study. France is represented -bestowing honors on her noted sons. On the frieze is this inscription: -‘Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante.’ There are some beautiful -frescoes here by Cabanel, which represent different scenes in the life -of St. Louis. The one where Blanche of Castile, his mother, is talking -with him is very lovely. The artist has succeeded in investing the faces -of St. Louis with much beauty and spirituality. I looked at these -paintings with great satisfaction, as I admire the results of Cabanel’s -brush always. I thought, too, not only of St. Louis, but of Louis S. S., -and wished I could see his pleasant face. I have so often called him my -St. Louis. Please tell him this when you see him, and love to them all. -Yet, with all of the objects I have told you of, and many, many others, -the interior of the Pantheon has a cold, bare look. Underneath this -building are immense vaults, and Victor Hugo’s remains are here. The -coffin, covered with cloth, mounted and embroidered with silver, stands -on trestles facing the tomb of Rousseau,--although the remains of the -latter are at Geneva. A huge pyramid of immortelles is before us, that -were brought, by those who loved the great man, on the day of his -funeral. All that was mortal of him is here, but a mind that could give -‘Les Miserables’ must be working for good still, in the ‘great -somewhere.’ - -Noticing the interest I felt in everything pertaining to Victor Hugo, a -Paris friend, with us to-day, said, ‘Let us sit down and rest near these -withered blossoms, and I will tell you a little about his funeral, which -took place just three years ago this month, and of which I was an -eye-witness.’ Although Victor Hugo was born an aristocrat, and was the -greatest poet of France, his sympathy and love for the common people, -and his strong and earnestly avowed republican tendencies, led him to -request in his will that he should be carried to his grave in the hearse -of the poor. And although this was done, never were such preparations -made before for the celebration and the honoring of any dead. France -claimed him as her greatest, noblest son. His body was laid in state, -under the Arch of Triumph, on a catafalque draped with black velvet -embroidered with silver, standing in a bank of flowers. Bands of crape -were draped from the top of the huge arch to the ground. Through the -day, and through the night, torches were lighted, and thousands of -people visited the spot. It was known that he said it would be his -choice to be laid without ceremony by the side of his wife, in the -little country churchyard, but the people would not have it thus; only -to the Pantheon should he be carried! But the Pantheon bore a visible -cross, indicating dedication to the Roman church. Hugo could not rest -there. His religion was of no sect. He believed in God and loved Him. He -believed in his fellow-man--loved and helped him. His creed was the -Golden Rule, and he lived by it. The Government ordered the cross -removed from the building, and it was done, and on June 1st, 1885, all -that was mortal of Victor Hugo--whose motto was ever ‘Fraternity, -Equality, and Liberty’--was carried there, followed by the greatest and -wisest citizens of France, her ministers, her soldiers, and her people. -We arose, laid our corsage ornament--a beautiful fleur-de-lis--by the -great man’s last resting-place, and turned away. - -By the way, the French love this flower, the national emblem of their -country. There is a legend about it, that runs like this: Clovis, who -was an infidel, went to battle with the Germans. He fought bravely, but -was losing ground, when he remembered his young Queen’s faith in God. He -called in his despair upon this Great Being the Christians so trusted -in, pledging himself to this God’s service forever if He would but give -him this one victory. The battle was his, and he was immediately -baptized. During the solemn ceremony an angel appeared and threw about -King Clovis an exquisite banner embroidered with the lovely flowers of -the fleur-de-lis. From that time to the French Revolution the kings of -France bore the flower on their banners. - -From the Pantheon to the Hotel des Invalides, a comfortable home for -disabled soldiers and for aged ones, containing kitchens, dormitories, -libraries, museums, etc. We chatted with a very old soldier with but one -leg, and he said that he was much happier with that one than most men -were with two legs, so well was he there cared for. Next, to the Tomb of -Napoleon the First, and I should have known it to have been his burial -place had I opened my eyes upon it unexpectedly, anywhere, so -‘Napoleonically’ magnificent is it all, in the Church of the Invalides, -so called. Napoleon so loved Paris, that in his will he requested ‘that -his body might rest on the banks of the Seine, amongst the French people -he loved so well.’ Light for the interior of this building comes through -violet-colored glass in the immense cupola, and falls with a peculiar, -weird effect upon the sarcophagus, which seems to be of granite, and -rests upon two large blocks of different colored stone, one upon the -other, making a high pile. The foundation upon which this all stands is -a crown of laurels, in green marble, on a floor of black and white, and -upon which are seen the names of many of his victories. Twelve victories -are also represented by the same number of colossal statues. The crypt -containing the sarcophagus is round, and immediately under the dome, in -the exact centre, and has around it a marble railing. We went down into -this crypt, around the sarcophagus, to a chapel, where we saw the very -sword he wore at Austerlitz, the insignia he wore, the battle colors, -and the crown of gold given to him by the citizens of Cherbourg. At the -farther end is the statue of the Emperor, with the characteristic lines -of his face strongly portrayed, and it is clothed in the imperial robes. -The gallery leading to this is always lighted by bronze funeral lamps. -Other chapels, dedicated to different saints, are richly decorated, and -the remains of a number of the relatives of Napoleon rest within them. -At the entrance to the tomb, as the whole building or church is called, -are two sarcophagi, dedicated, the one to Marshal Duroc, and the other -to Marshal Bertrand, the devoted and true friends of the Emperor in his -hours of trial. Way high up in the cupola, which is, I have already told -you, right over the sarcophagus containing Napoleon’s dust, is a -beautiful picture of Jesus, in the midst of angels, looking tenderly -down. This crypt is in the centre to be sure, and yet is in front of -steps which lead to the beautiful altar. The steps are of white marble, -and the high, superb altar is of both black and white marble, with a -canopy of gold, beneath which is a figure of Christ on the cross. The -cost of this entire monument was nearly two million dollars, and is all -so rich and effective that I hope my description of it will enable you -to see it, a little, as with my eyes. The life of conquest and glory, -defeat and suffering, which this man knew is without a parallel. His -spirit left the body in obscurity and exile; that body now rests in the -costliest of mausoleums. Here in this very city he once lived in a -garret, and wandered hopelessly about seeking employment; here also he -lived in palaces, and ruled everything before him. We have seen the -Hotel de la Colonnade, Rue des Capucines, where he was married to -Josephine, and it was at the Tuileries his divorce from her was -proclaimed. His ambition was indeed his ruling passion, when he could -put from him the woman who loved him, saying to her, ‘Josephine, thou -knowest I love thee; to thee alone do I owe the only moments of true -happiness that I have ever had, but my destiny overrules my will.’ Dying -on his lonely bed, on the bleak, rude heights of St. Helena, without -kith or kin to love him, what then to him were ambition, fame, or -victories, even such as his had been? - -We spent the rest of the day in the Cluny, an extensive old museum, -containing statues, paintings, armor, and wonderfully beautiful -tapestries, and rare antiquities of all descriptions. One exquisite and -very odd piece of pottery so interested me, being entirely different -from anything I had ever before seen, that I asked one of the near -attendants where it came from; he answered, ‘Hades.’ Fearing I did not -understand him, I asked the question for the second time, and called my -companions to interpret, but ‘Hades’ he repeated, and we could say no -more. F. said it seemed well baked, and told us a story of an Englishman -who was travelling in France, and had with him a French courier, the -latter speaking English a little, but making some peculiar translations. -The English gentleman asked concerning a friend whom he knew to be -residing somewhere in France. The interpreter innocently assured him -that his friend had gone to Thunder in Burgundy. The Englishman, not -knowing of the town Tounerre, drew his own conclusions. - -_Wednesday, July 4th._--A pleasant surprise awaited us this morning. Our -hostess, in our honor, had thrown from our balcony our own glorious -flag! Our stars and stripes! None other as beautiful in all the world -floats. It seemed a part of our own dear land, our home and friends. We -are up in the fifth story; the horses are kept in the first. The higher -up the rooms are, the more desirable are they considered here, and the -greater is the rent. We took an early drive, then spent a little time -shopping, and made our way to the monumental chapel containing the tombs -and monuments of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI., called the Chapel -Expiatoire. Here is a beautiful statue of the unfortunate Queen, and one -also of her husband, on the pedestal of which is inscribed, in letters -of gold, his will, in which he commends his wife and children to his -Maker, and expresses a wish that his wife may be allowed to keep their -children, for her maternal tenderness for them he has never doubted. It -all expresses the thoughts and feelings of a good man. The remains of -the brave Swiss Guard who so faithfully defended the royal family, are -also here. - -A little more sight-seeing, a few social calls made, last lingering -glances at the Palais Royal and the Rue de Rivoli shops, and home to -dine. After dinner we, with the entire household, went to an out-of-door -fête, in the streets and on the sidewalks of Paris, and a grotesque, -comical, ridiculous celebration it was. Old and young were dancing in -the streets; open booths for shooting, angling, and all sorts of games -of chance were well patronized; cheap shows, theatres, concerts, -cycloramas, and panoramas, all in full blast, and Punch and Judy doing -their part vigorously; a beautiful girl, with a fine voice, and dressed -in white silk, thus exposed to the public gaze, was giving a concert in -the open air, and the crowd about her were really ladies and gentlemen; -every jim-crack ever manufactured was for sale in the miles of tents -temporarily erected;--and altogether it was a strange sight. I could not -have believed it possible that intelligent men and women could have -enjoyed such a conglomeration, but they seemed to. At midnight, after -walking some distance to find our cabs, we were driven to Rue Clement -Marot, through the Arch, and this grand monument looked even more grand -in the full blaze of the electric lights. To-morrow we regretfully leave -this beautiful city and our pleasant friends, who have done so much to -make our stay here a happy one. Whatever is rich, Paris is richer. -Whatever is grand, Paris is grander! Whatever is beautiful, Paris is -more so. I hope to see it all again. - -_July 5th._.--We left Paris at 10 A.M. to-day, leaving the house early -enough to step into St. Chapelle for one more look at the incomparable -rose window and the other remarkably beautiful stained-glass windows of -this gorgeous church. The morning was a bright one, and as the rays of -the sun streamed in upon us, through the rich colors of the glass, and -mingled with the delicate blue tone reflected from the arched roof of -the edifice, the effect was glorious. This exquisite ceiling is thickly -dotted with gilt stars. The whole interior is decorated with gilt -diamonds, with paintings of fleur-de-lis, St. Louis’s flower between. We -went into the little chamber where the saintly King used to sit and -listen to the church services, through a window opening into the nave. -On reaching the station we found our friends waiting for us, to give us -a pleasant send-off toward Geneva. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER V. - - -We cannot be French very much longer, and must turn our tongue into -German. E. does not accompany us, so our own interpreters we shall have -to be. Our carriage contained, beside ourselves, a French gentleman and -an Italian gentleman, ‘we four, and no more.’ We sped on through villas -and villages, and fields of bright wild flowers, with but little of -interest, however, to detail. - -Our Italian seemed troubled in regard to an apparently new glove which -he tore badly in raising a window. After a long, disconsolate look at -it, he took from his travelling bag, needle and thread, and went -carefully at work to repair the injury, but made a bad tangle of it. As -F. had implements handy, including a thimble, she offered to mend it -for him. He accepted graciously, and his handsome face grew luminous as -he watched his pet glove grow whole under her deft fingers. What might -he do for us? Would we drink wine with him? ‘No, thanks,’ we said. What -else he offered, to show his gratitude, we could not understand; when -out from his pocket he took a phrase-book of Italian and English words, -and pointed to the sentence, ‘Shall I sing for you?’ We gladly -acquiesced, and to our great delight he poured forth one of the -grandest, sweetest voices I ever in my life listened to. It was like -Brignoli’s in his best days. He sung the choicest airs from different -operas, and warbled, in his own musical language, tender songs. The -distinguished-looking French gentleman joined us in thanking him for -making the hours pass so delightfully--for it is a long run from Paris -to Geneva. We find fellow passengers, in this country, much more -thoughtful of the comfort of others than they are in England or America. -We also like the steam-cars here much better than our own, unless one -always rides in a Pullman. Even many of the second class cars have high -backs and cushions, all softly upholstered. Early in the afternoon a -thunderstorm struck us, and we had heavy showers. Later the sun shone -out brightly, and set gorgeously in red. At six P.M. we made our first -stop, at Dijon, and had at the station a fine table d’hôte dinner, wine -included, and we did all justice, for we were as hungry as bears, not -having provided ourselves with a luncheon, thinking we should stop -somewhere for one. Remember this, all who go from Paris to Dijon. Much -refreshed, we continued our journey to Macon, where we had planned to -spend the night, but our polite and helpful Frenchman, who had all along -the road kindly given us much information of the country we came -through, assured us that if we did so we could not reach Geneva until -three P.M. the next day, but if we kept on to Ambrieau, and would spend -the night there, we could take an early morning train and reach Geneva -at eleven A.M. So this we decided to do, bidding here our kind informant -adieu, as his home is in Lyons, hoping to be able in the future to -accept his invitation to sometime go through his silk factory, under his -escort. - -We rolled into the little station at Ambrieau about ten P.M., our -Italian companion keeping on to Genoa, waving his last farewell from the -car window, with a white silk handkerchief in one hand and a scarlet one -in the other. To our dismay we found it raining in torrents, intensely -dark, and not a car or carriage, nor man or beast, to be found. The only -live article around was the station-agent, to whom we hurried back, -fearing he too would disappear, which he was making hasty preparations -to do. We ascertained from him that the principal inn of the place was -more than a mile distant, and no way of reaching it at that hour of -night but to walk. Near by, he said, was a small house where he thought -we could get a room and be comfortably lodged, and assured us we should -be safe. We could do nothing but accept. He piloted us across the street -and into the front room of a house, where some men were sitting around a -table drinking beer. A pretty girl was waiting upon them, with whom our -escort had some words, and without giving us attention she filled a -glass with beer for him. We began to feel a little uncomfortable, and -again asked our leader if we were safe. He answered ‘Oui, oui;’ but -still stood there. All at once we thought of his expected franc, on -putting which into his hand he retreated, leaving us in the care of the -pretty maid. She took our bags, and we followed her, through a dark rear -room, then through a large bare kitchen, out into the back yard. She led -us on, through the furious rain, up two long flights of stairs, built on -the outside of the house, and on the landing unlocked a door with a huge -iron key, which door creaked and squeaked on its hinges, as if they had -not been disturbed for many a day. As getting the door open was the work -of some minutes, we were pretty thoroughly soaked by the time we stepped -into the queer-looking entry, with its stone floor and roughly plastered -walls. Out of that we went into and through a long, narrow, crooked -hall, with a shrine at the extreme end, to our room. It was a small one, -with bare floor--a single bed, one chair, and a table with a wash-bowl -and pitcher on top, the former about as deep as a soup plate, and the -pitcher minus water and handle; but enough of the former was dripping -from our clothes to equalize conditions. We found it impossible to turn -the lock of the door, so placed what furniture the room contained -against it, feeling sure that the ‘Blessed Mother’ in the shrine outside -would keep us from all harm. We left lighted our two long candles--found -the little bed sweet and clean, and soon forgot our tribulations. - -_Ambrieau, July 6th._--A clear morning, and our trust not misplaced. We -are safe, and are refreshed by our night’s rest. After being served with -a bowl of black coffee and some blacker bread, for our breakfast, on a -clean wooden table, we paid our little bill of five francs, and went our -way rejoicing. At seven A.M. we were facing Geneva, rushing into and -through the prettiest valley of country we had ever seen. The Alps -towered up on both sides of us, and in the valley were clusters of -thatched and vine-covered cottages, with open doors, near which -contented grandmothers sat knitting and watching the children playing -at their feet, while the younger women could be seen, not far away, -minding the flock of geese or the herd of sheep. I am told there is much -affection for each other exhibited in the simple homes of these -peasants: often the entire families of several generations live under -one roof in entire harmony and peace. These ‘ganders and geese’ are -wonderfully wise, if what a travelling companion told me is true. She -said that when a male child is born in these homes, the ganders form a -line, and march around the house, but when the other sex is born they -hide themselves. Poor ganders! Probably jealous. - -At eleven A.M. we reached Geneva, and found our room at the Metropole -ready for us. It is really an elegant one, spacious, and in the front of -the house, with windows to the floor, by which we can sit and look out -upon the Jardin du Lac and the beautiful blue waters of Lake Geneva, or -Leman, often called. Our early breakfast not having been a very -nourishing one, we decided to take another here before going out. A good -one it was, and was quickly served. While enjoying it, a lady came to -us, an American, and told us where to buy furs, where diamonds were the -cheapest, and where we could find the best places to purchase -watches--giving us her card at the same time. We were afterwards told -that a number of American ladies make quite an income from commissions -earned in this way. An open carriage was soon at hand, and from it we -took our first look at Geneva. There is nothing very remarkable about -the place, as a city. There are many hotels, and upon the quay are -numerous elegant stores, mostly jewelry stores. In some of these we saw -the beautiful enamelled watches, that are nowhere else so exquisitely -made. Watches in almost everything saw we here--in necklaces, bracelets, -canes, and umbrellas, and at all prices. We went into one of the -factories, and found that women do much of the fine work, a certain -number working only on certain parts, and therefore constant practice -makes them extremely dexterous in their specialty. They were well -dressed, and looked intelligent and contented. - -Here the lake receives the waters of the Rhone, and about midway of the -fine bridge which crosses it is Rousseau’s island, on which stands a -bronze statue of him. The upper streets of Geneva are very hilly, and -the older part is quaint and odd in its buildings, like the old French -towns. We saw the house Calvin lived in, and went into the church where -he preached his hard logic, but we could shed no tears for his departure -from this world, but might for the suffering Servetus, whom he caused to -be burned for not believing as he did. It has always seemed to me that -the stern, dogmatic Calvin showed a spirit of malice, as well as great -uncharitableness, but of course, in those days very few lived who -considered it right for one to have an opinion different from their -leaders. What a huge bonfire there would be if freethinkers were thus -treated in these days! And was it not Calvin, also, who caused the -Prince of Condé to be punished because he made himself agreeable to -ladies, and thereby injured the interests of God? That reminds us of one -club man who is always at his club when we want him for better -purposes. Has he a little of the spirit of Calvin? - -This city is full of associations of intellectual lives which bring -fragrance of good deeds, the good works of Mme. de Staël, her Father -Neckar, of Pestalozzi, Père Gérand, and many others. - -In the afternoon we took a sail up the lake. The shores are closely -dotted with hotels, fine residences, little villages, picturesque -chalets, fronted with green, well-kept lawns, running to the water’s -edge, on the one side of the lake, while the Alps rise high and dark on -the other. We landed at Nyon, and climbed innumerable steps to see an -old castle, from which we had charming outlooks. We sailed back to -Geneva at the hour of sunset. All my life I had heard much of the -sudden, striking color changes that sunset produces on the summits of -the Alps--and we have seen them in all their great beauty. At one -instant, the terraces of mountain tops looked as if clothed in gold, and -next as if painted crimson,--and as the sun sunk lower they were left -huge dark piles, casting their shadows over us. On landing, we took a -walk, and inspected the much-heard-of monument of the Duke of Brunswick, -for the erection of which he left plans and money. Did not admire it. It -is very ‘giddy,’ but the placing of it there poured funds into the -treasury of the town. We looked at the pretty little American church -with a tender interest, for one dear to us was married within its walls. -In the evening we went to an open-air concert, and a very good one too, -in the garden in front of our hotel. - -Called at an office to see about getting front seats on diligence, for -our trip to Chamouni to-morrow. F. speaking French the better, did the -talking, but was assured we could have no front seats for the next day, -and we were about coming to the conclusion that we should have to take -back ones, much to our disappointment; but it is here as almost -everywhere else, if you are willing to take ‘back seats’ you may never -take front ones, and this time I was not willing. Remembering the -potency of the silver key, I resorted to that as a forlorn hope, mixed -in with my poor French, and succeeded in securing the desired places. On -our way home, F. said she feared my earnestness and my not always -grammatical French might place me in as bad a position as an American -woman occupied, of whom she heard this story. She was rather proud of -her somewhat limited knowledge of the French language, and fond of -airing it. She went to secure places on a diligence for one of the Swiss -mountain trips, and approaching the conductor, demanded-- - -‘Etes-vous les diligence?’ - -‘Non, Madame, pardon; Je suis le conducteur.’ - -Lady--somewhat angry at the correction--said excitedly, ‘C’est tout de -même; Je prenderai deux places dans votre interieur?’ - -_July 9th, 1888._--Never a pleasanter morning dawned for a ride on a -diligence! Ours was a new one, painted in bright colors, and we had the -two seats between the driver and conductor. Our six strong horses wore -strings of bells about their necks, and we started off right merrily. -The road from Geneva to Chamouni is as familiar to tourists as the way -from the Oxford to Boston Common, but all do not see it alike, and you -have not seen it at all, so I know you will enjoy hearing of it, told -to you in my way. The road over which we rolled was simply perfect, and -the panorama in front of and about us, magnificent. We went through the -valley of the Arve, past well-cultivated farms, and little factories run -by water turning the big wheels, past pretty chalets, nestled in green, -stopping often to change horses and drivers, when the pretty Swiss -children would gather about us and entreat us to buy their nosegays of -wild flowers. There is something so pathetic in the faces of these -little ones, that we could not find it in our hearts to disappoint them, -so our decorations became as thick as those of a brigadier-general. - -But soon we leave these rural scenes, and strike into scenery so grand -that I fear it is beyond description. Imagine us going over the road, -with the river tumbling, foaming, along by its edge, the mountains -towering up on each side of us, some rocky, others covered with green -pines, with a sheet of mosses, lichens, and mountain blossoms at their -bases, and frequent cascades of water rushing down pell-mell from -tremendous heights, forming vast clouds of vapor long before reaching -the valley below, and sparkling in the rays of the sun like millions of -diamonds. One long, narrow waterfall, fringed with green foliage, like -orange leaves, well merited its name of ‘the bridal veil,’ so pure, -lace-like, and fleecy did it look. ‘This will be a fine day to see Mt. -Blanc,’ said our conductor, and soon the mountain chain, with every -shape of peak, including Mt. Blanc, shot up like giant commanders above -the regions of the clouds, in full view against the blue sky background, -which blue was intensified by the snow-clad tips. After leaving the -Baths of St. Gervais, a health resort approached through a beautiful -avenue of trees, and where we dined, we find the road even better than -at its beginning. These roads were built, and are taken care of, by the -Government, and there is scarcely a stone or an uneven place on them. -Every few miles we see crosses erected, some costly ones, but more of -wood simply painted, with images of the Saviour or of some saint on the -pedestals or in glass cases. Over the doors or windows of most of the -houses are statues or pictures of saints, for we are in Catholic -Switzerland now. Here too we are assailed by beggars, and from one house -the whole family, including the grandparents, all ragged and dirty, -besieged us for alms. What a blot is this upon beautiful Switzerland. On -this road also we first saw victims of cretinism and goitre. We met one -old beggar woman whose neck was so swollen that we could only see the -upper part of her head protruding from the swollen mass of flesh -beneath. We were told that the medical and scientific men of the country -have for years endeavored to ascertain the cause and a cure for this -loathsome disease, but have so far been unsuccessful. Many attribute it -to the use of snow water, but I should be more willing to think the use -of no water caused it, for dirtier, more repulsive-looking: mendicants I -never beheld. At about seven P.M. we reached the little village of -Chamouni, and alighted at our hotel without a feeling of fatigue, so -comfortable and full of delight had been our trip. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER VI. - - -Chamouni is a small town at the foot of the mountains, surrounded in all -directions by grand scenery, and the river Arve rushing through it, but -our impressions of the place we will give you to-morrow. We find our -hotel full of people from all over the world, and, alas, we see by the -register that some friends from Boston have just left. Why could they -not have stayed one day longer? We rush from table d’hôte into the yard -to see a party dismount from their mules after a day’s excursion in the -mountains, and a tired but jolly crowd they were. ‘This is what you have -got to do to-morrow, so pick out your thoroughbred,’ said F. I scanned -the creatures, but took no stock in them; but mules have a wise look. - -_Chamouni, July 10th._--What a day this has been in my calendar, to be -sure! Thanks be to the good Lord that I am alive to-night to tell you -about it. This early morning, before breakfast, we took a stroll about -the town, which is composed greatly of hotels, as this is everybody’s -starting point for the mountain and glacier trips of this part of -Switzerland. There are two or three churches here and some stores, and -groups of small but comfortable-looking homes, but mules -predominate--mules in the streets, mules in every yard, and mules on -every corner; in fact, the principal part of the population is mules and -the principal part of industry mule riding, at least one would so judge -from the general aspect. We met a party of gentlemen coming from Mt. -Blanc, who had made a hazardous journey, and for whom we had heard some -anxiety expressed by their friends at the hotel, but they are safe, and -we imagine the young, rosy-cheeked English maiden will now leave the -telescope, where she has stood for so much of the time since our -arrival, looking anxiously toward the ice-capped giant, hoping to see -‘Albert.’ There is probably much satisfaction to scientists in the -ascent of Mt. Blanc, but to the man ordinary one would not think it -would pay, as the results are often quite serious, even if one does get -through with whole limbs--the skin generally peels from one’s face and -the eyesight is often badly affected. - -We stepped into the church for a blessing and back to our hotel, the -D’Angleterre, for breakfast, with an appetite ready to devour anything. -The table is excellent, and such butter! so sweet and fresh, that one -eats an extra roll for the sake of the butter with it. Here we met some -friends from America, who are to join us on our trip to the Mer de -Glace. ‘But I do not wish to ride a mule; can I not be carried in a -chair?’ ‘No, no,’ said the crowd, ‘here they come, mules and guides.’ -‘Come now, let us get started; you may have the first choice,’ said F. -‘Six mules and three guides. And is that what you engaged? I must have -the whole attention of one guide.’ I opened conversation thus with the -oldest man, who seemed used to being questioned: ‘Which is the easiest -trotter?’ ‘Not much difference, all easy.’ ‘These saddles look hard,’ -said I. ‘The softest in Chamouni.’ I walked around one mule, and he, -eying me, brayed in disapproval, but by this time the rest of the party -had mounted the other five, and I was helped to the saddle of this sixth -one, wondering how my one hundred and thirty pounds avoirdupois looked -at mule-back elevation, not daring yet to think how a back not made of -iron might stand the ordeal. After a good deal of merriment in getting -started, out of the yard we filed, a gay party, two ladies and three -gentlemen, all thinking it delightful but myself. For a while muley was -very demure, and the fearless riders kindly gave to me the most -experienced guide, so we led the string. The zigzag path as we ascended -the mountain, however, grew narrower and steeper, with now a big stone -in the way, and next a slippery hole made by running water, and my beast -gave me terrible shakings as if he would rather ‘go it alone.’ The young -people in the rear were enjoying the scenery, and I could hear their gay -voices and exclamations of delight, but I did not think it such a good -time, for I had to give my entire attention to keeping on my saddle, -such bumps into the air that mule did give me. My guide said he was -young and playful, and there was no danger, which quite reassured me, -notwithstanding he endeavored to whirl about very often, as if he had -been stung, or had hit his crazy bone, or stepped on an electric wire. -F. cries out, ‘Do not be frightened; you will get used to it.’ But when -the creature suddenly jumped from the hand of the guide, a yard or two -down the embankment, with the yawning precipice below, to eat a bunch of -green grass he had spied, almost throwing the guide down, and I keeping -on only by holding on to his neck with both arms for dear life, I -concluded I would not wait to get used to it, and dismounted, feeling -that ‘shanks mare’ was a safer medium of locomotion than a Chamouni -mule. The creature knew well that he had scored a victory, shook his -long ears satisfactorily, winked considerably and wisely, and walked -along contentedly. And so did I. We saw many wild goats and one chamois, -only that was in a little house and for the sight of it we had to pay. -We met a number of pedestrians with their alpine sticks, and I gathered -large bunches of lovely, bright-red flowers, called the mountain rose, -somewhat like our rhododendron. - -It took us about three hours to reach the summit where the Mer de Glace, -the great sea of ice, came in sight. The glacier extends for about -twelve miles, and at this spot is about two miles wide, a solid mass of -ice with enormous cracks and crevices, with tall ramparts, turrets, and -towers of ice, all glistening in the sunshine like crystal, -scintillating with gorgeous colors. From the hotel piazza, which hotel, -a new one, stands on the plateau above the gorge, the effect is -dazzlingly grand. At the hotel we were provided with strong alpine -sticks, with socks and shoes, for walking on the ice, and with fresh -guides commenced our journey across. It was difficult getting along -sometimes, but the beauty, strangeness, and fearfulness of it all more -than repaid us for the physical exertion. We were on the ice, with -frozen mountains and spires all about us. Many of the columns and -pinnacles and huge pieces of ice looked like crystal cathedrals and -palaces. In other places it appeared as if huge sea waves had been -instantaneously frozen. A grotto had been naturally formed, into which -four of us stepped. Deep crevasses, hundreds of feet deep, met us, some -narrow enough to leap over, and others we passed over on little ice -bridges our guides made for us. Midway we halted, looking about us, lost -in wonder and amazement, when suddenly we were brought back to everyday -life by a photographer, with his camera, suddenly appearing before us -asking in plain English if we would have our pictures taken. Where the -man came from we did not see, nor where he went we cared not, for we did -not choose to be served up on ice that day. We crossed safely and -recrossed at a different place, where the ice scenery varied as much as -mountain scenery does from various outlooks, and we felt that never in -our lives before had we seen anything so magnificent. As I was ascending -the jagged points of the cliff to step on land, something fluttered like -a feather before my eyes; but I soon saw that it was a butterfly; my -guide caught it for me, and I had, as my trophy, a pure-white butterfly. -My guide, an intelligent fellow, said he occasionally saw gray ones, -but had never before seen a pure-white one there. A few yards from this -sea of ice vegetation flourishes, and almost at its very edge I found a -cluster of little blossoms resembling our ‘forget-me-not,’ only white -instead of blue. They grew very close together, and none others of their -kind were to be seen, and they looked as though they realized that they -had been left out in the cold, far from home, and tried to comfort each -other. - -At the hotel we had a poor dinner, for which we paid a big price, but -the magnificent views we here had from the house piazzas made up for it. -Clouds began to thicken and we made hasty preparations for our descent. -I exchanged mules, and the last one proved less frisky, but our going -down the mountain seemed more hazardous than going up. Pretty Miss M., -of Nashville, Tennessee, with her bright golden hair streaming over her -blue cloth dress, led the van on my former steed, who, apparently -feeling proud of his lighter burden, behaved very well, but we had not -gone far when the rain poured as only it can pour in these mountains. -We were all provided with umbrellas, but I had to use my hands to hold -on to the pommel of my saddle, for my mule’s hind feet were higher than -his front ones, and I preferred getting wet to being dismounted. A boy -had trotted up the mountain with us, and kept near us on our way down, -so I gave him my umbrella, as it was impossible for me to use it, to -protect himself. (More of that umbrella later.) As we neared the valley -it ceased raining, the clouds broke, and for a little while the sun -shone brightly and sank slowly in the west just as we entered our hotel -yard, the young people exclaiming to those who came out to greet us, ‘We -have had a charming time,’ but I, with every article of clothing -thoroughly soaked, and my body feeling as if I had been under a -thrashing machine, parted with mule society most willingly. - -Of our guides let me here say, in case you come this way some time, they -were all careful, polite, and attentive to us, and from mine, although -he could not speak one word of English, I gained considerable -information in regard to Chamouni guides. They are formed into a -society and are employed in rotation, sometimes showing sufficient -gallantry, however, to allow ladies travelling without gentlemen to -choose their guides, if for any reason they have a preference. These -men, before they can be accepted by the club, must be familiar with the -mountains and the glaciers and must be proven to be honest and reliable. -My guide was evidently a man of observation, and told me the guides all -liked Americans, they seemed to enjoy everything so much. ‘The American -ladies look happy; the English ladies are sad,’ he said, probably -meaning that they were not as enthusiastic, for the people of every -country like to have its wonders appreciated. With aching limbs I -retired early, and F. thought manipulation, with a little hot water and -whiskey, might ward off a severe cold, and I submitted to the treatment, -while the others, not a bit used up, went off for an evening’s ramble. I -think they must have been brought up on mules. - -_Wednesday, July 11th._--When we went to pay our bill this morning we -found amongst the items charged, ‘eight glasses of whiskey.’ ‘What does -this mean?’ ‘Means that Madame has had eight glasses of whiskey.’ ‘There -is some mistake; the only whiskey we have had was about half a gill, and -probably not that, brought up to me in a wine-glass last night.’ ‘No, -Madame, no mistake; we are very particular.’ ‘Do I look like a woman -that has had eight glasses of whiskey? Take that off my bill, that I may -pay what I owe you,’ said I, and I immediately counted out the amount, -including one gill of whiskey. All of this in French, which I could not -talk fast enough to show him the depth of my anger. F. was getting -alarmed, and whispered, ‘Don’t mind; do pay it.’ ‘No, I will not pay one -sou of it, for we do not owe it,’ and the clerk, seeing that I was -determined, accepted what I gave him and receipted the bill. Now if that -man was honest, he thinks we have defrauded him; if not honest, he will -conclude American ladies are business-like at least. - -After this scene we were about ready to jog along, our carriage in the -yard waiting for us, to which I went to deposit some wraps, when my boy -of yesterday made his appearance, and said, ‘I want my pay for carrying -your umbrella.’ I looked at him with the stare of a maniac! ‘Pay! why, I -loaned it to you, to keep you dry.’ I was in no mood to be imposed upon; -but the boy began to cry, so I gave him a penny or two, and wondered -what would be the next demand. - -The carriage which was to take us to Martigny was like a buggy with the -top tipped back, and a comfortable seat for us two and a short seat -front of us for our driver. Two good horses and a bright morning. Our -tickets had been purchased for this trip ‘half way by mule,’ but by -losing something, I was enabled to exchange them. No more mule riding -for me! We were told by friends that if others were going over the same -route, by joining forces and hiring a two-seated vehicle, expenses for -all would be much less. We spoke of this at the hotel office the day -before, twice, but were each time assured that there was no one else -going, and consequently our day’s trip was a costly one. At nine A.M. we -bade our friends, who were going on to Geneva, adieu, and saw the last -of Chamouni. - -The Swiss are considered an honest people, but they either show great -carelessness or we have several times been cheated. At the Baths of St. -Gervais, upon paying for our dinner, they did not return to us enough -change; we both knew they did not, and yet the man who took the money -declared they did, and as we had not time to contend the case, we let it -go. To be sure, there is some dishonesty everywhere, and some honesty -that is a little hard to understand. The whiskey case might have been of -that class; something like the bills of some American dressmakers, who, -after charging for every possible thing that could be used in making a -dress, modestly put at the end of the long list: ‘Findings, one dollar.’ -I have never been able to find out the definition of that word -‘findings.’ - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER VII. - -MARTIGNY. - - -Our ride of thirty miles has been delightful. There is no railroad, of -course, from Chamouni to this place. We passed many pedestrians of both -sexes, with their bags and waterproofs strapped across their backs, -following in a line like a row of ants, apparently having a jolly time -seeing Switzerland on foot; also passed parties on mules. The scenery -was glorious all the way. We looked back to take our last view of Mt. -Blanc and the Mt. Blanc range and the lovely valley below. Our road was -good, but in some places so narrow, and the ravines so deep on the one -side and the mountains so high on the other, that it gave us a little -anxiety; but our driver was very cautious, and soon inspired us with -confidence. Up and down we went, constantly seeing new and wonderful -views--deep gorges, waterfalls, and the green-clad mountains; and at -last, through a tunnel cut through a solid rocky point of the mountain -that blocked the road, we came to Tête Noire, where we stopped to -refresh man and beast. - -Upon going in to dinner we were surprised to see there two ladies whom -we met at Chamouni the day before, and who were travelling alone like -ourselves. They told us they left at eight o’clock, after being assured -that no others at the hotel desired to come with them, as far as was -known; so they had a carriage to themselves as we did, when we should -all have been glad to have made the trip together. Was that a mistake -also? After dinner we continued our journey, with four other carriage -loads in our train, which made the trip seem very social and jolly. We -passed through a beautiful forest, and then into an opening past houses -far apart, pasture lands, and fields of pretty wild flowers. Here we saw -pansies growing wild in great profusion, and the lovely pink, and -crimson yarrow. In our descent of the Col de Forclag we had a fine viem -of the Rhone valley, and at about six P.M. reached Martigny. Switzerland -is indeed mighty; and its great mountains, its lakes and valleys, make -us cry out, in truth, ‘Great is Thy firmament, O Lord, and wonderful the -works of Thy hand!’ Martigny is a small village in the valley, where we -are to spend the night. - -_Thursday, July 12th, 1888._--We can see, in the distance, St. Bernard -covered with snow, and would like to see the celebrated hospice, the -self-sacrificing brothers and their noble dogs, but shall not take the -time this season, but hope to, some time. Of the two great gifts, memory -and hope, I know not which gives us the most satisfaction. There is but -little of interest at Martigny--a good place to rest; and feeling -entirely refreshed we left at nine A.M. for Interlaken in steam-cars, -which seem quite a novelty to us now. I think I was rather glad to get -out of the mountain region for a little while: one’s eyes grow weary -with the looking up and the looking down, and the mind tired in the -appreciating of so much sublimity at once. The country we came over was -charming; fields of wild flowers of every color looking as if arranged -by an artistic hand, and the hillsides covered with vineyards. Our road, -for a long distance, kept near Lake Geneva; the water looked as deeply -blue as a sapphire, and the sail-boats and steamers passing each other -made a pleasing scene. - -At Chillon we stopped to see the ‘Castle of Chillon.’ It is a -picturesque old building, with turrets and towers, standing on a point -of rock that extends out into the lake. The ring of iron to which -Bonnivard was chained is still there; and the path which his feet wore -in the stone floor, in the weary, solitary six years’ march back and -forth over those few stones, is plainly visible. - - ‘Chillon! thy prison is a holy place, - And thy sad floor an altar, for ’twas trod, - Until his very steps have left a trace - Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, - By Bonnivard! May none those marks efface; - For they appeal from tyranny to God.’ - -It would be almost impossible for one to keep from quoting Byron’s lines -here, for everything we see brings them to mind, and on one of the -pillars is his name, cut by his own hand. To look at the dungeons and -cells makes one’s blood run cold, and even worse is the deep, deep hole -down which prisoners, untried, were thrown to fall upon pointed iron -stakes. And while these terrible horrors were being perpetrated below, -above it all, Duke Victor Amadeus and his Duchess ate, slept, and -enjoyed themselves. Could they have been human? We saw many implements -of torture, which made our heads swim with pain even to look at them, -and be told for what they had been used, and we gladly turned our backs -upon it all and walked out into God’s sunshine, thanking Him, as never -before, that we live in an age when such things are kept only as ancient -curiosities. This portion of ‘clear, placid Leman’ and the country -around it bring forcibly to mind many portions of Childe Harold’s -pilgrimage. - -Our next stopping place was at Lausanne, and at the station we met some -Boston friends, seeing them just long enough for an affectionate -greeting and to say good-by, every one of us - - ‘All kind o’ smily round the lips, - An’ teary round the lashes,’ - -for home faces are sweet to look upon, and our own language sweet to -hear, in this far-away land. Here we changed cars for Berne, and of all -the queer-looking towns, this is the queerest. Having but a few hours -here, we are inclined to give the most of it to the bears. The city’s -coat of arms is a bear, and pictures, carvings of, and stuffed bears -meet one’s gaze everywhere, on clocks, fountains, towers, houses, and -public buildings; and at a restaurant where we called for ice cream -Bruin’s figure was served to us in chocolate. There is also a den -containing about twenty live bears, who are sacredly cared for by the -city government, and they walk about and climb poles with more dignity -than common bears, as if fully realizing that they are ‘monarchs of all -they survey.’ We were driven through the principal streets and thought -the homes of the people looked very comfortable, with the outside -balconies at the windows, and the red-covered cushions on them, as if -inviting travellers to stop and rest. It happened to be cheese market -day; and in the middle of a square were long tables covered with piles -of cheese, of all shapes and colors, enough to provide the citizens of -the whole world, for the rest of their lives, ‘cheese for their -doughnuts.’ But the odor! It was not to us ‘of Araby blest.’ There is a -great deal of beautiful carved woodwork here, and how we want to buy -everything odd and pretty, but oh, those ‘duties’ to come. We went into -the cathedral, which is a handsome one, and walked on its terrace, from -which we had a fine view of the river Aar and distant mountain peaks. We -then hastened to the old clock tower, to be there at just the time to -hear and see the curious old clock strike the hour of six. A cock steps -out and flaps his wings, an ogre eats a child, and has his pockets full -of children in reserve to be similarly disposed of, a troop of bears -march across the tower, and a man strikes the number of the hour on a -big bell with a hammer. These, you understand, are all statues carved -of wood, and move correctly every hour. A bearded man also turns an -hourglass and counts the number of the hour by raising a sceptre and -opening his mouth as if speaking. One needs to look very closely to see -all the movements, and the whole is wonderfully ingenious, and it is -indeed an ‘old clock,’ as it was built in the year 1191. - -After leaving Berne, we changed cars twice before reaching the lake. I -cannot understand why the railroad officials of Switzerland do not -arrange matters to dispense with so much changing from one car to -another, and also to shorten the delays, unless they are desirous of -accommodating the women they employ, in giving them ample time to finish -whatever they may be doing ere they blow that horn, which sounded like a -‘Swampscott fish horn,’ and which at several stations has seemed to be -the order for us to move. At one station I saw a woman come through a -gate with a horn or trumpet, or whatever it may be called, and partly -raise it to her mouth as if to sound the signal for us to start, but -suddenly, seeing a dog scratching up the earth in her garden, ran and -beat the dog first, then returned and tooted loudly, and off we started. -A short sail on Lake Thun, which seemed weird and lonely, as it was by -this time quite dark, another car ride, and we see the lights of -Interlaken, which speak to us of rest, for we are weary. - -_Interlaken, July 14th._--This is cheerful. Everything at our hotel, the -Victoria, looked delightfully pleasant to us this morning as we tripped -down stairs as good as new. ‘What a pretty front yard, and do see all of -these huge hotels in a row; do you suppose they are all full?’ said F. -Well, Interlaken does seem to have hotels enough to take in all the -tourists of the world, but they are all well filled at this season. The -shops are attractive, and the pretty girls in them, dressed in their -native costumes, are very polite and seem perfectly willing to show -their wares without urging one to buy. But the beautiful embroideries -are temptation enough for one to spend money, without any words. We saw -in every shop handkerchiefs more beautiful than in the last we entered, -although we declared those there, when we looked at them, were the -loveliest that could be made. And the exquisite embroidered soft white -laces almost make one want to be a bride to wear them. Girls and women -are sitting in the stores, on the steps, in their door yards, and in the -parks, all busy embroidering. We have a good view of the Jungfrau from -our hotel piazza. We have taken long walks in and about the town, and -very pleasant ones. We wandered into a church and found that one half of -the building was used by the Presbyterians and the other half by the -Catholics. We were pleased to meet some friends from Boston here, who -added much to the pleasure of our stay. - -_July 16th._--F. has been with Mr. F., one of our home friends, over the -Wengern Alp to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen to see the glaciers and the -ice-caves. I declined, not caring for another mule ride. They report -having had a fine time, repaid fully by the sights they enjoyed, and -rode horses instead of mules,--and horses do have some consideration for -their riders. Evenings we have had ‘hops’ at our hotel and fine music, -and after table d’hôte are always entertained by the orchestrian and -the bright-looking little wooden man that wields the baton. - -_Lucerne, July 17th._--A short ride from Interlaken this morning early -brought us to Lake Brienz, which we sailed across, stopping for a short -time at Giessbach to see the falls, which are formed from numerous -cascades. Their reputation is the greater part of them. We left the -steamer at Brienz and took steam cars to travel over the Brunig Pass. -Until this summer, travellers have been obliged to make this journey by -carriage or mules. The new railroad is narrow, and the sides of the -little cars are of glass, so that the scenery all about us can be easily -seen. We crept cautiously, slowly along, up the zigzag road, higher and -higher, through jagged rocks and under them, clasping each other’s hands -and almost holding our breath, so fearfully grand did it all seem. The -lovely Meiringen valley below, lying peacefully dotted with pretty -villages and protected by high mountains on each side, seemed very far -from us, and the river running through its centre looked like yards of -silver ribbon unfurled to beautify some one’s bridal day. But when the -descent is safely made we almost want to go back again, it was all so -beautiful. The last two hours of our day’s travel was on Lake Lucerne, -the loveliest bit of water in all Europe. A tall, gaunt, -masculine-looking German woman happened to sit near us on the boat, and -seemed to look upon us as ‘curiosities,’ and to feel it her duty on her -native soil to give us some information. This woman had been all day at -work in the mountains, but at what we could not understand. Coarse and -repulsive-looking as she was, she had a good bit of the poetic -temperament in her nature, and knew every mountain peak and bit of -scenery in sight and the traditions connected with them. The peasant -women of Switzerland, owing to their toilsome lives, wear a look of -anxiety and hardness in their faces that a woman’s face ought never to -have. And yet there is no country in the world, excepting our own, where -women have done so much for the progression, education, and good of -their sex. In Protestant Switzerland there is but little begging; in -Catholic Switzerland beggars waylay you at every turn. It was nearly -sundown when we crossed the lake, and Mt. Pilatus showed off well and -did not disappoint us. The old German woman assured us that Pontius -Pilate fled there from Jerusalem, heart-broken, and ended his life by -throwing himself into the lake: ‘See, right in that spot,’ she said, ‘he -threw himself!’ Then as if reflecting, added, ‘But Pilate did what -was--what he had to do.’ All this she spoke in German, and I have given -you the literal translation. Who shall say that woman was not a -philosopher? Pointing in another direction she said, ‘That is where -Kriss Kringle was born. Does he come down the chimneys in America? It is -well for children to know him.’ And this woman of sentiment and feeling -worked daily out of doors. The scenery from Lake Lucerne is indeed -beautiful and is full of glorious associations, for it was about here -that the struggle was made for the liberty and freedom of Switzerland -and her people. The mountains all about us, the stately chateaux, the -pretty chalets, old watch towers, castle ruins, and the green foliage -about them, the beautiful lake, and the steamers going and coming, make -a peaceful, restful scene. The sun sinks almost out of sight, and all at -once, as a surprise, we turn, and are at the city of Lucerne. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER VIII. - -LUCERNE, _July 18th, 1888_. - - -In going to the breakfast-room this morning I saw, in a pantry we -passed, some real cucumbers, green and fresh looking, as if they had -just been picked in a garden I am thinking of, not a hundred miles from -Boston. My mouth fairly watered for a few crisp slices. I had a -conversation with my table waiter about them, who thought it might be -possible to get some for me. I waited patiently with refreshing -anticipations, but when they came their crispness had departed: they -were soaked in oil. I longed to go into that kitchen and teach the cook -how to serve cucumbers. But making the most of the hard bread, which I -very much dislike, and it is the same all over the Continent--crust an -inch thick, and the passable beefsteak and poor coffee, we got through -our morning meal. We soon forgot our disappointment at breakfast in the -delight of getting letters. Oh how glad to read them, and no bad news. -Now we can go out sight-seeing, stronger and happier than ever. - -Lucerne is beautifully situated on both banks of the river Reuss, with -the lake in front, and has many attractions, I think. The lake, this -clear morning, looked so luring that the first thing we enjoyed was a -sail to Fluellen, where we took carriage for Altorf, the village made -classic forever by the heroic deeds of William Tell. The spots of ground -where his son was placed and where Tell stood when he shot the apple -from the boy’s head were shown us. In our school days, Tell was ever one -of our favorite patriots, and we fear we always felt glad of that hidden -second arrow, which was to have shot the tyrant Gessler if the first had -killed his boy. On our return to Lucerne we saw the old castle of -Hapsburg, once the summer home of Wagner. The king of the sights of the -town is, however, the Lion of Lucerne. This piece of sculpture is, as -everybody knows, a monument to the brave Swiss guards of whom we thought -so much about at Versailles. The beast is twenty-eight feet long, -magnificent in proportions, and cut out in relief on the face of the -natural rock. He is wounded by a spear, and dying, but making a -desperate struggle, even in death, to protect the shield of France. -There is a pathetic expression in the expiring creature’s face that is -almost human. Ivy and running vines cover the sides of much of the huge -rock about him, and at its foot is a pond of clear water in which the -whole is reflected. The lion was designed by Thorwaldsen, the noted -Danish sculptor, who was born in Copenhagen, and whose Reliefs of the -Seasons, and his Day and Night, are familiar to you from the -photographs. ‘We cannot let our eagle scream here, F.,’ said I; -‘Cogswell fountains do not equal this.’ - -We went into the Glacier Garden and saw the bas-relief of Central -Switzerland, modelled from nature by General Pfyffer one hundred and -forty years ago; and were then driven to the old cathedral, where there -is a fine organ handled by a noted organist every evening. It is quite -the fashion for visitors in the place to flock there to hear the music -after dinner; but we, not liking the rooms given us at our hotel, ‘The -Swan,’ although undoubtedly they did for us the best they could, and as -we could not get into the Schweizerhof at all, the best hotel in the -place, have decided to leave this afternoon. Our last act of -sight-seeing was the old covered bridge, in which there are over a -hundred pictures, scenes of Switzerland’s history and pictures of -saints, although some of them did not look very saintly. There are four -bridges across the river,--two modern, and the other two very ancient -and curious. - -Went to Vitzman by boat, then took front seats on a platform car to -ascend the Rigi. Only one car is sent up at a time, and that is driven -by steam power. The railway seems to be the same as any narrow-gauge -road, but between the outside rails are two other rails quite near each -other, in which a cogwheel, which is under the engine, runs or works. We -ascend slowly, leaving the lake and the towns far below us, and beyond -and above us are the mountain peaks. We go through a tunnel and across a -deep yawning ravine on an iron bridge; and the scenery is beautiful all -around us, which we can fully enjoy at our ease, as there are no -dangerous places and no frisky mules to distract one’s attention. We -pass many tourists, but the path must appear almost endless to them, for -it seems to us, even at our speed, that the top of the mountain grows -farther away. But at last we reach our hotel, the Rigi Kulm, above the -clouds. Would we could always rise above them so delightfully! It was -very cold, so we put on all the wraps we had, and started out for views -from the Rigi. Just imagine yourself on the very top of this high -mountain, which juts up towards the heavens like a ‘popover’ in a hot -oven. In the valley below we can count eight lakes, and the many towns -so far below us look like the little wooden villages made of blocks for -children to play with. Looking beyond in all directions, we see -mountains towering up to the sky--Rocky Pilatus, the snow-clad range of -the Bernese Alps, and the green Rigi group close about us. We see the -rugged heights of the Silberhorn, the three peaks of the Wetterhorn, -and, grandest of all, the Finsteraarhorn. What a personal interest we -have in these peaks of Switzerland as soon as we know them. - -The mountain was covered with travellers, like ourselves, enjoying the -views and anticipating a gorgeous sunset, as there was scarcely a cloud -to be seen. I sat on the grass near the edge of the mountain wondering -at the extent of this magnificent panorama, when I felt a weight on my -shoulder; turning quickly a cow raised her head from the resting place -she had chosen and looked at me in a way that said, ‘Why did you move?’ -A little later we met Mr. W., of New York, and his handsome German -doctor, who added greatly to our pleasure during the rest of our stay -here. Seeing a boy with some freshly picked wild flowers, and an -edelweiss among them, I asked where he found it, and wandered off in the -direction indicated, anxious to pick for myself one of these blossoms. -We had bought them fresh, we had bought them dried, and the semblance -of them in all sorts of ornaments, but not one had I seen growing. I -clambered down the steep and rocky path, and was rewarded after a long -search by finding two of these flowers which the Swiss love so well, and -I victoriously exhibited them to my friends as I met them coming in -search of me. We grouped ourselves on a high platform, built on the -summit, which was already well crowded, to see the sun go down. But why -do we get up here? we were high enough before. Because it is the thing -to do, and here is glass of every color to look through. But I only wish -to see it all in its natural colors. How the wind blows, and how cold it -is! There goes the Doctor’s hat. No use to try to recover it; it is -dashing on to see where the sun goes to. Put this wrap over your head, -Doctor. - -Look, look! The great ball of fire was sinking to the edge of the -horizon, which was streaked gorgeously with crimson and gold. Golden -tints fell far and near, upon valley, lakes, and mountains, and the -white robes of the snow-clad peaks, were changed to rose. All voices -were hushed, for a spectacle so sublime awakened in every one emotions -too deep for words. Lower and lower, until only a great gold shield -remained, and soon all light was gone, and the shadows covered us. -‘These are Thy works also, O God, for Thou didst make the heavens and -the earth.’ - -Stiff with cold, we hurried to our hotel, whose lights twinkled -cheerfully for us in the distance, and a good dinner, with warm drinks, -soon thawed us into a comfortable condition. After dinner we tried to -find a room heated sufficiently for us to remain in and not freeze, but -there was none. Large, handsome parlors and corridors, but all as cold -as ice-caves. The proprietors of this house make a great mistake in not -providing fires for the comfort of their guests; and for the very lack -of this necessity to one’s health, we decided to leave as early as -possible in the morning. After a brisk promenade through the hall with -our friends, we bade them good-night, promising to rise at the sound of -the alpine horn and meet them in the parlor, to go out and see the -rising of the sun, which they assured us would be far more wonderful -than its setting. ‘Now you will be sure to be on hand,’ said Mr. W. ‘I -would not have you miss it for anything. I have a fur coat here which I -will unpack to put about you; you will have to rise at three o’clock, -you know.’ ‘O yes, I will surely be ready. We have come far to see the -sun rise on the Rigi, and I must not miss it. Good-night,’ and off we go -to our room at the very top of the house. Just hear the wind roar. - -Our chamber was cold, our chambermaid colder, and upon our asking her -for more bed covering she undoubtedly reached the freezing-point -somewhere, for she disappeared and we saw her not again. After prolonged -and vigorous ringings of our bell, a petrified-looking boy appeared, but -he manifested some signs of life as our money touched his palm, and we -succeeded in coaxing him to bring us an extra feather bed. That bed was -warm, and as our own was cold and clammy, I felt pretty sure the boy -gave us his own bed. But I was grateful, and he was satisfied with the -bargain. - -‘Get up, and dress as soon as you can,’ said F., holding a ghostly -candle in front of my face. ‘Up! why I had just got to sleep.’ ‘The -alpine horn has sounded, and you must see the sun rise.’ ‘No, I am just -beginning to get warm; what does it rise at this unheard-of time for?’ -‘There, Mr. W. is calling us outside our door; do come, hurry.’ ‘No!’ -The horn tooted most unmusically. I was too tired and sleepy, with a bad -cold thrown in, to care whether the sun ever rose or not. I had had too -hard work to get a comfortable resting place, to have no benefit from -it, so off F. went, and I knew no more until seven o’clock, when she -exasperatingly informed me of what a delightful time they had, that the -sun setting was not to be compared in glory to its rising, that it was a -wonderful revelation, and that I had persistently refused to enjoy it. O -dear! why will people always tell you that the sights you do not see are -those the best worth seeing. - -_Thursday, July 19th, 1888._--Although we ordered our breakfast last -night, it was not ready for us when we went to the dining-room. ‘Very -sorry, some mistake,’ said the waiter; but that did not give us our -breakfast, and it was nearly time for the car to leave. We choked down -some cold bread and half-made coffee, and rushed, meeting a waiter just -bringing our hot rolls and chops, which we had paid for when we settled -our bill the night before. I took out a clean napkin from my bag, and -took from him our breakfast, wrapped it in my napkin, and said -good-morning to the half-dazed man, who ejaculated just one word, which -sounded like ‘whew.’ Our friends were at the car to see us off, and -tried to exchange their tickets for some that would take them our route, -but could not, so good-bys were said, and off we pushed to descend the -Rigi. We have been unusually fortunate in having such perfect weather -for this mountain trip. This morning is lovely. We move cautiously down -a road, on the opposite side from the one we went up, so all views are -new to us. We soon reached Lake Zug. Our car conductor gracefully -saluted us as we left his care to take the boat. These Swiss conductors -have a pretty custom of always saluting each other when they meet, also. - -We crossed the lake to the city of Zug. Had two hours to wait there, so -walked about the queer little town. Wandered into a church where were -several good pictures. On our way back to the station we stepped into a -neat-looking wayside inn and called for a bottle of wine to go with our -Rigi spoils for a luncheon. The proprietress and her fair daughter -seemed much interested in us. We spread out our luncheon on a clean -tablecloth, were served with delicious butter and honey, and enjoyed it -at our leisure. With the curiosity of the sex, these women wondered who -and what we were. Our dress was strange to them, and our language -stranger. We told them we were from America, and were travelling to see -their country. ‘Wo ist der Herr,’ asked the woman. ‘We have none,’ we -answered. ‘Mein Gott!’ said she. We hear no more French spoken now; all -German. - -Our next stopping place was Zurich, where we had a good table d’hôte -dinner, and then pushed on to Schaffhausen, where we alight for the -Falls of the Rhine, and ride in a carriage about two miles to our hotel, -‘The Schweizerhoff.’ This house, with all its appointments, is the best -we have yet seen in all Europe. It is situated in the midst of -beautiful grounds, on the bank of the Rhine, with the falls in full -sight. Our room was not only comfortable, but approached elegance, and -the long windows opened on to a veranda where stood two large, soft -easy-chairs, as if waiting to welcome us, and give us the best pictures -of the country about. Making a hasty toilette, we went down stairs and -out on to the piazza, where sat at their ease a distinguished-appearing -company to see the falls, which our guidebook had told us were the -largest in Europe. - -In front of us, at the foot of the garden, ran the river, and a little -to the right was a small rapid, apparently about as high as the fall of -water that I used to see running a saw-mill on the East Taunton road, -but not for an instant did we suppose that those were ‘the falls.’ ‘Will -you please tell me where the Falls of the Rhine are?’ I asked a lady -near me. The woman looked dazed, and turned toward me to see if I was -blind, but politely answered, ‘Why, there they are!’ Impulsively, with a -disgusted tone, I exclaimed, so disappointed was I, ‘Those the Rhine -Falls! Well, just think of Niagara.’ ‘Sh--sh,’ said F., ‘you are forever -waving the stars and stripes.’ If the house and place had not given us -so much pleasure we should have felt our time wasted in coming here, but -these exceed our expectations. The cuisine was simply perfect, and at -table we were served by pretty, rosy-cheeked Swiss maids, dressed in -white skirts, full-sleeved white waists and black velvet bodices, and -looking as fresh and sweet as pinks. They moved, as if one person, to -the sound of a bell, doing entirely away with long waits between -courses, and every dish brought to us was most delicious. - -_Friday, July 20th._--We had our breakfast served on the broad piazza, -fronting the Rhine, by our pleasant Swiss girl this morning, and the -fragrance from the sweet flowers about us brought memories of the orange -groves in Florida where we stood only a few months ago. Time and steam -do wonders. Hoping to consider the falls a less disappointment on a -closer approach to them, we decided to go to their very centre in a -boat. About in the middle of them stands a rock, on which has been -erected a pavilion, and to which boatmen are ready to take passengers -at all times. We reached the landing safely, through currents and -whirlpools, and the rapids themselves did appear of much greater -magnitude on closer proximity, but I doubt their being the largest in -Europe. The town of Schaffhausen is very ancient, with its queer old -houses, gateways, and walls. On the old bell of the cathedral is an -inscription, which translated means, ‘I call the living: I mourn the -dead: I break the thunder;’ which it is said, prompted Schiller to write -the exquisite verses of ‘The Song of the Bell.’ - -_Saturday, July 21st._--Yes, the Schweizerhoff is a haven of rest, and -had we time, we should like to tarry longer. We are close to Germany -now, and must see something of it, but I fear the majestic scenery of -Switzerland has spoiled us for any scenery of less beauty. The -proprietors of these Swiss hotels have a custom of giving to each -departing lady guest a bouquet. Mine this morning was unusually -beautiful, and when I said to the giver, ‘We have really been charmed -with your house,’ a pretty picture of the place was added to the first -offering. To the omnibus in which we rode to the station from the -hotel, was harnessed, as our leader, an immense cream-colored bull, a -handsome creature, truly huge in his proportions. I doubt if I shall -admire Paul Potter’s as much. - -In our car we had as our only travelling companions two priests, with -their long, flowing gowns and big hats. They continually prayed and -crossed themselves for a while, and we feared that they did not realize -that we were also two human beings and Christians, so entirely did they -ignore us. But after a time they looked up, and we found an occasion to -make a remark to them, which opened the way for a conversation, although -a limited one, as they could not understand one word of English, and we -stumbled much in German, but they were very bright, and looked over with -us our German conversation book, and we made quite a merry party. Our -route was through and over the Black Forest mountains, said to be the -most picturesque of all mountains. We passed through numerous tunnels, -some very long ones, and in utter darkness, as they did not light the -cars at all, giving one a good chance to think of all the terrible -accidents one ever heard of, and making one feel all the time as if -something dreadful might happen. I never did like to be in the dark, -unless as a tired child with my mother’s arms close about me. When not -underground, which seemed but little of the time, the scenery we saw was -bold and memorable. The whole region of this Black Forest is full of -traditional stories, and we stretched our necks as we turned precipitous -corners, hoping to get a glimpse of the ‘Black Huntsman’ dashing down -the dizzy heights back of us or in the green valleys below. We saw two -castles, and a huge monastery, ‘built on a rock’ on a high elevation. -And now, being in the mood, I think I will tell you of something we saw -later,--a cavern which is called ‘The Noble Lady’s Grave,’ and this is -the story which shows why so named, as told to us, or at least the main -points: ‘The husband of the lady left her alone in their home in the -Black Forest, with only her attendants for society, and, of course, she -being of noble birth, could not ‘chum’ much with her servants. He left -her thus to join the Crusades. She pleaded with all a loving wife’s -earnestness for him to remain with her, but without avail. It looks as -if the knight cared more for glory than for his better half, but may be, -let us be charitable, ‘he had business she could not understand,’ or -perhaps ‘he had to meet a man,’ as many of the self-sacrificing husbands -of our own time are obliged to do, greatly to their own discomfort, but -‘duty is duty, you know.’ At any rate he tore himself away from her -clinging arms, in spite of tears and entreaties, undoubtedly hoping to -cover himself with glory in the holy city. Perhaps he had wearied of the -gloom, dismalness, and monotony of life in the Black Forest, and ‘needed -a change.’ His wife, of course, had more resources for pleasure; she -could do the mending of the family, tell the cook what to have for -dinner, and go to church and give thanks for so brave a husband, and -offer prayers for his welfare. The lonely, noble lady did all of these -things most faithfully for a while, but they soon ceased to be -entertaining, and life itself grew wearisome. There was no mail to be -expected in those days, no letters to answer, no progressive euchre -parties, no Browning clubs, no sewing circles, no amateur theatricals, -and not even a neighbor to talk about, and no one to talk about the -neighbors with. Poor forlorn woman! Worn and weary with the watching and -the waiting, ‘He cometh not,’ she said. Her crusader most selfishly -tarried too long. But one fine day somebody’s else crusader came along, -and just as the noble lady was packing her ‘Saratoga’ to fly with him to -the lands where loneliness and the ‘blues’ were unknown, her own lawful -crusader appeared, killed her would-be rescuer, and shut the poor, -out-of-patience wife up in this cave in the hillside, which was her -prison living and her grave when dead. - -After the descent of the Black Forest range was made, we struck into -pretty, green valleys, where women, young girls, and children were -making hay,--Gretchens and Maud Müllers. Oxen and cows were used instead -of horses, and I saw two women _harnessed_ into a hay-cart, which was -loaded with hay, and a man riding comfortably on top, smoking his pipe. -I would have liked to have seen him fall off, but I was told that men at -home, in this part of the world, are so few, that the women give them -the easy places, and work for them, and coddle and pet them to their -hearts’ content. The large majority of the men are away at the barracks. -The homes of the working people, just here, look as if intended to -illustrate a revised edition of ‘the happy family.’ Human beings, both -sexes, of several generations, judging from the very old looking women -and the few old men, and the little babies we see, with horses, cattle, -sheep, pigs, and hens, all live under one outside upper roof, having -perhaps the choice of apartments inside. The door-yards look neat, but -without exception, every house has somewhere near the never-to-be-missed -fertilizer pile, often higher than the house, and generally the bigger -the house the bigger the pile. Stocks up, they sell; stocks down, they -buy. Financial excitements, you see, are necessary even here. The houses -are never painted, and the roofs are covered with straw. At one station -where we changed cars we saw a group of Alsatian women with the genuine -Alsatian bows on their heads instead of bonnets. The bows were made of -some black material, and I think must have measured fully one yard from -one end to the other. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER IX. - -HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS, STRASSBURG. - - -MY DEAR ----: Strassburg is a larger city than I had expected to see, and -some parts of it are very fine. The university buildings are handsome, -as are many others. The great cathedral, however, is the one particular -object of interest. We first took a look at the exterior, and many -looks, for its beauties are manifold. The carvings, statues, and -bas-reliefs are magnificent, as are also the towers, turrets, and the -spire. The west front, so called, has a rose window, and on each side of -this window is a large square tower. The entire façade is most -exquisitely sculptured. ‘But oh!’ said F., ‘do look up at the spire; -does it seem possible any object so elaborate and graceful could be made -of stone?’ The height of this spire is nearly five hundred feet. It -looks so light and airy, so like a wonderfully executed piece of -filagree work, towering towards the clouds, that I fear you cannot -imagine its beauty from a hasty description. It has been said to look -like ‘lace work,’ and the building itself, so fine are its carvings and -sculptures, said ‘to look as if it were placed behind a rich, open, -flower-like screen, or in a case of open-work stone,’ and these -comparisons will, I think, convey to you a little idea of its general -appearance, and you will be spared the lameness of neck that I suffered, -from the long stretch in looking up. Even in this land of art, -architecture, music, sculpture, and poetry, we are often reminded that -flesh, muscle, and nerves need some consideration. This church is indeed -a rare poem, an epic of the first water, and its author, the architect, -was Erwin von Steinbach, whose tomb is in one of the chapels. F., -anxious to do the most daring things, decided to ascend the spire by way -of the spiral staircase; I declined. She ascended and descended with a -level head, and declared she would not have missed the sights, for -anything, of the closer view of the stone-work, and of the panoramic -picture from the elevation. Of the interior I shall not tell you much, -but its rich, elegant carvings, its beautiful stained-glass windows, its -clusters of pillars, its ornately sculptured pulpit, were objects of our -great enthusiasm and delight. - -Of the wonderful clock I will tell you a little. This astronomical clock -is in the south transept, and tells not only the time of the day but -indicates every event connected with astronomical phenomena, like the -changes of the moon, the seasons, the church calendar, and so forth. A -child strikes the quarter of the hour, a youth the half hour, a young -man the third quarter, and an aged man, tottering slowly, comes and -touches the bell with his staff, and passes on, soon followed by the -figure of Death, who strikes the full hour with a human bone; and just -then, the figures representing the twelve Apostles march in front of a -statue of the Saviour, who bends to give each one his blessing, and a -cock crows loudly thrice, while another figure--Time--turns an -hour-glass, for running of the sand to indicate the next hour. It is -all extremely ingenious and interesting. The clock has been partly -reconstructed, as it is said the original, made in 1448, was partially -destroyed by the maker. The legend runs that the genius who invented and -made this wonderful structure of mechanism for Strassburg was urged to -make one for another town. The Strassburgers becoming jealous, sent for -the clock-maker, and requested him to give his promise that he would -never make another; but this he refused to do, which so angered them -they gave an order to have the poor man’s eyes put out. Hearing of this -terrible crime which was soon to be inflicted upon him, he offered to -make a few necessary repairs on the clock before losing his eyesight. As -soon as he had done this, his eyes were forever destroyed, but at the -same moment a crash from the clock was heard--weights, bells, and -figures fell to the ground, for the man had destroyed instead of -repairing his work. The clock just escaped being again destroyed at the -time of the bombardment by the Germans in 1870. The cathedral was -greatly damaged, but has been well repaired. One cannot wonder that the -French feel bitterly toward the Germans for taking from them, with -Alsace, this city so rich in its churches, but such is war. And long -ago, when this same place was a free German town, Louis XVI. captured it -for France, and now Germany claims it again. French and German seem to -be about equally spoken here. - -We met E. W. in the street to-day, and a pleasant surprise was her face. -In this strange country, mere acquaintances seem like dear friends, and -dear friends dearer than ever before. I wish I could hear your voice -to-day, but I know you are with us in thought, and glad that these days -are so filled with brightness for us, but we must not forget that they -cannot always last; we are so apt to, just as in summer we forget that -flowers so soon wither; but the fragrance of their fallen leaves remains -with us long, as will the sweet memories of these gliding hours. - -_Holland Hotel, Baden Baden, July 23d, 1888._--At four P.M. we reached -here from Strassburg. Our hotel is one of the best, and after settling -our baggage in our spacious, handsomely furnished room, we went out to -reconnoitre. The town is lovely,--beautiful streets, buildings, shops, -and grand old shade trees everywhere, and just now the place is crowded -with people, driving, walking, flirting, and sauntering through the -streets, stores, and gardens, bareheaded. This reminds me more of -Saratoga in the summer season than any place I have before seen, -although there is not the display of dress here, or the taste displayed -in what dress there is, that we see in our American watering-places. In -fact, so far, I have had to come to the conclusion that European ladies -show very little good judgment and no style in dress, with the one -exception of the Parisians. The Duchess of Baden, who is the daughter of -the good old Emperor William, lives very near our hotel, and other -members of the royal family of Germany are here, but are, of course, all -in deep mourning for the dearly loved and much-lamented late Emperor -Frederick. - -After an excellent dinner we went to the ‘Conversation Haus,’ a large, -fine building in the midst of beautiful grounds, where everybody goes -evenings to hear the fine music and see the people. What else they go -for I cannot positively say, but am told that there is still some -gambling carried on somewhere within the walls of this building; but we -saw only its elegant drawing-rooms, ball and reception rooms, rich in -appearance as pictures and gilt, velvet, and silk furnishings could make -them. If any gambling is done here, or about here, in these days it is -done secretly, for when the German Government awakened to the fact that -accomplished scoundrels from all over the world met here to carry on -their nefarious practice, it suppressed all gambling, greatly to the -credit of the Government, for by so doing thousands of dollars that were -left here annually were spent in some other country than Germany. When -this was done it was feared that the prosperity of Baden was over, but -it did not prove so. The place is too lovely to be neglected by -travellers, and now, many of the wealthier and most respected Europeans -spend a portion of the summer here. There are over twenty large hotels -and more small ones, and they are now all well filled. - -_July 24th._--This morning we visited the ‘Trink Halle,’ an elegant -building, which is decorated with frescoes illustrating many of the old -German legends of the Black Forest. People flock here mornings to drink -the waters as they do at Congress Spring at Saratoga. Crowds of people -were present drinking the vile stuff as if they enjoyed it, but I found -it the least palatable of any mineral water I ever tasted. The Fraülein -who, at her leisure, at last waited upon us, acted as if it were a great -condescension on her part to allow us to taste the horrid liquid, but -she did not hesitate to take our money. I observed the same spirit in -all of the female employees in the town with whom we had anything to do. -They did not seem to wish us to see anything or to buy anything; and in -one store where we looked at a garment, after hearing the price, I -remarked to my companion that it would not cost much less, if any, than -at home, if we paid duties, and the girl, understanding English, said, -‘You could probably buy it elsewhere for less,’ and continued the -reading of a book she held in her hand. With such indifferent clerks I -should not suppose sales would be very large; but all merchandise was -dear at Baden excepting the little things found at the booths out of -doors and in the two rows of stores leading to the Conversation Haus. -These were very attractive, and everything for sale in them, from -magnificent diamonds and gems of all kinds, exquisite engravings and -photographs, down to buttons and hair pins, and the gentlemanly -proprietors and clerks were very polite. - -We next went to the Friedrichsbad, the finest bathing establishment in -the whole world. It is built of red and white stone, and is artistically -decorated with carvings. But the attendants there, the women, were as -disagreeable as the sex were at the Trink Halle; but as they were -remarkably good looking, they may have been placed there for ornament -instead of use, and the mistake our own in expecting them to give us any -information. We did not see the private baths, as it was not the hour to -show them, but we did succeed in seeing the magnificent round, white, -marble-lined swimming bath by waylaying the only man we saw in the -establishment and asking him to show it to us. - -We took a carriage to visit the ‘Alt Schloss,’ or old castle, now a ruin -and a very picturesque one, and then to the ‘Neue Schloss,’ where the -Grand Duke of Baden lives a part of the time. This is a home fit for the -gods--a grand castle, on an eminence overlooking the town and a -beautiful country round about it. It is surrounded by magnificent -grounds, and contains many valuable paintings and a gallery of antiques. -You remember the Duke’s wife is the daughter of old Emperor William, and -now, since the Emperor Frederick’s death, she is his only child living. -As none of the royal family were in the castle all of the apartments -were shown us, all attractive and rich in furnishings and finishings, -with lovely views of the beautiful valley of Baden Baden from the -windows. We next followed our guide down, down, into the dungeons below, -made in the rock on which the castle stands. All around us were -instruments of torture, and near us a deep excavation where condemned -persons were formerly thrown alive, and from which no cry for help could -be heard. We were glad to turn our backs upon these places of old-time -cruelty and try to forget the barbarity of old margraves in admiration -of the late loved emperors of the country, William and Frederick, both -of whom have recently gone to their reward. - -These German duchies are small, very small, kingdoms. The duchy of Baden -is not as large as our State of Massachusetts, but the Grand Duke lives -in a kingly manner. He not only has his palaces here, but has one at -Carlsruhe, a short distance from here, one in Freiburg, one in -Heidelberg, and three or four others, and each one must require an -immense revenue to be cared for as they are. Now, just think of the -taxes the people must have levied upon them to keep up all this -grandeur. Supposing we had to, by being more largely taxed, pay our -governors a sum sufficient to live in such luxury, I think we should -soon rebel, and if we did not, I should fear our honest Puritan blood -had run out. From the ‘Neue Schloss’ we visited the pretty Greek church, -which is a gem, and finished our drive along the Lichtenthal Allée, the -beautiful avenue, shaded by magnificent trees and filled with carriages -of every description in which were seated lovely women, with gay -dresses and sparkling gems. Promenaders from all parts of the world -walking up and down, bands of music playing, and bright and brilliant is -the scene. Yes, Baden is delightful, and we have been cared for with -much thoughtfulness at our hotel and recommend it to all who come this -way. - -_Willbad Springs, Germany, July 25th, 1888._--I do not imagine that you -ever heard of this place, but it is worth hearing about. It is a small -watering-place, with natural springs, hot and cold, these springs being -considered by many the very fountains to dip in to ensure the -everlasting duration of youth, strength, and beauty. And here we are -visiting our own relatives, who have come from Dresden to tarry a while -for the benefit of the waters. How glad we were to see them all--our own -kith and kin! Cousin E. and his pretty little ‘foreign’ niece were at -the station to meet us, and you may well believe our tongues did run -fast for a while. Aunt M. is an encyclopedia of a most charming edition, -and has delighted us with stories of her experiences in living and -travelling on this continent and with her cordiality towards us. -Hundreds of people are here, as the country about is attractive, and -then, too, the sick, lame, deaf, and blind come to be made whole. ‘Let -us bathe in these wonderful waters,’ said F. Here, as at Baden, there is -a fine building in which the baths are fitted up, with all the -conveniences, and the water brought into them from the natural springs. -What a furnace there must be here in the bowels of good mother earth, -and how well regulated to keep this water and send it to her children of -just the right temperature for a bath. I could not possibly think of any -irregularity of my body that needed doctoring, but was advised that when -‘in Rome I should do as the Romans do,’ and was told also by one of the -pleasant assistants (very different from the class at Baden) that many -American ladies had derangements of the liver, and I undoubtedly would -have some time, being an American, and these baths were a sure -preventive as well as a sure cure. I had never thought much about my -liver, as it had never called for special attention, but feeling that -here was the grand opportunity for ‘taking time by the forelock,’ -plunged in. Result: stayed a day longer at Willbad than was my -intention. They make very good gruel at Willbad! I had no right to the -healing properties of Willbad waters, for there was nothing wrong with -my constitution. The waters took their own way of revenging imposition. - -_July 26th, 1888._--Have been in the house all day. This evening half of -our household went to the opera and the rest of us listened to some fine -music in the Park. The band was a splendid one, and the programme -contained choice selections, such as we should have to pay a dollar or -two to hear at home. How full of music these Germans are, and how -soulfully they execute! We have just decided not to go with E. to -Bayreuth to the Wagner Festival, but to take the time to see more of -this country, for this we cannot have at home, but we can have Wagner’s -music, and, better still, our own Symphony and Gericke. We lingered in -the drawing-room of our relatives late, hating to say ‘good-night,’ for -the morning will be the beginning of a longer parting. And when shall -we all meet again. Adieus must be said, and when we thanked our friends -for the pleasant time with them they said, ‘But we have done so little!’ -Ah! life is made up of little things; loving words, smiles, and kindly -acts win the heart always. - -_Hotel de l’Europe, Heidelberg, Germany, July 27th, 1888._--On our way -here from Willbad we stopped for a few hours at Carlsruhe, which is one -of the residences of the Court of Baden and is the capital of the grand -duchy of Baden. We are getting tired of palaces, so, instead of visiting -the very magnificent one at Carlsruhe, spent what time we had in the -palace gardens and in the botanical garden, the orangery, and the -hothouses. The flowers are about the same as we have at similar places -at home, with a few plants and blossoms strangers to us. We reached -Heidelberg at five P.M. and were considered distinguished arrivals, I am -sure, for a carpet was spread awaiting our footsteps from the carriage -to the hotel door and several gentlemen in dress suits stood in a line -with folded arms and bowed very low to us as we passed along. Now, this -was delightful! They never do that at Parker’s or Young’s when we go -there. This hotel is fine, standing in the centre of a pretty garden. We -have a luxurious room and on the first floor. We are getting to like the -single beds, one apiece, that we have everywhere over here very much, -for if one does feel like taking the ‘spoon fashion’ position, there is -no one with coequal rights near to object. Nor are the employees as -attentive at the home hotels. Here we no sooner get settled in our rooms -than the polite portier appears, takes our names and residence; no going -to the office to register here, and the letters U. S. A. act like magic, -for are not the United States of America overrun with millionaires, and -so many of them resort to travel purposely to get rid of a portion of -their troublesome, superfluous incomes. ‘Would we like a glass of wine -brought to our room? Is our room satisfactory? Perhaps we would like a -special maid during our stay, which he hopes will be long. When it suits -us to allow him, it will give him much pleasure to tell us about the -city and what to visit and the pleasantest way to see all.’ Well, -really, these portiers are invaluable, and although there may be some -grasping ones, who impose upon strangers, we have found nearly all of -great assistance and apparently well satisfied with what we have given -them, which has never been more than we felt that they deserved for -service rendered. - -We took a drive about the city, which is a long, narrow place sandwiched -in between the river Neckar and the hills, on the highest one of which -stands the ruins of the old castle. We were driven through a long -avenue, with pretty trees on each side and some residences, but more -stores, and the sidewalks filled with people. This street is called the -Anlage; and is the principal boulevard of the city. We saw the ‘Helig -Geist Kirche’--Church of the Holy Ghost, into which the people of -Heidelberg were driven, crowded in like animals, so closely that they -could not move, by the French army in the time of Louis XIV., and left -there to suffer, until the steeple took fire as the town was being -burned. This old structure has had many critical changes in its history, -and is now divided by a thick wall, on one side of which the Roman -Catholics worship, and on the other the Protestants. Our driver was a -talker, and told us much we understood, and more that we did not, of the -places of interest we passed. ‘Now show us the university buildings,’ we -said, and he soon halted in front of an old, plastered or stuccoed -structure, that resembled barracks more than a renowned seat of -learning, and was a great disappointment to us. A drive over an old -stone bridge, from the farther end of which we had a charming view of -the castle perched on the mountain side, overhanging the town, with its -towers, battlements and arches, a regal ruin in truth, and back to our -hotel, ended our first sight of Heidelberg. - -We had scarcely entered our room when a band of musicians stationed -themselves directly under our window and struck up the ‘Wedding March’ -from Lohengrin, and it was exquisitely played too, and on fine -instruments. We came to the conclusion that we were supposed to be -brides on our wedding tour, and had commenced disciplining our ‘better -halves’ by leaving them at home, as we find it is a source of great -wonder to the Europeans, and especially to the English and the Germans, -that the American wives travel about so much without their husbands. One -lovely German lady, in Baden, in speaking on this subject, said to me, -‘And what do these husbands left alone do?’ ‘Do?’ I answered, ‘why, they -not only attend to their own business matters, but they run the house, -take care of the children, and write daily love letters to their absent -wives, and love them better than ever, if possible, when they reach home -again. You must believe,’ I said, ‘that American husbands are the best -in the world, and that with us, in all grades of life, wives are treated -with tenderness and consideration, and as equals.’ She looked a little -incredulous, and I could not wonder when I thought of the pitiable -sights of her country, that are before us daily, of women, bronze faced, -half dressed, working in the fields, digging, hoeing, pushing the -plough; in the towns breaking stone, sawing wood, and bending beneath -heavy loads of many kinds, carried on head or back, while their husbands -take their ease, at the barracks, perhaps, and when at home take the -money earned by their wives. One of the worst features, too, of this -condition of things is that the women do not rebel; if their husbands -take them into the gardens on Sunday, and drink beer with them, often -paid for with the little earnings of the overworked wives, they are -satisfied. Poor things, they have never known anything better. Amongst -the poor of Germany, matrimony was not commenced right. I think the -military laws of the country are to blame greatly for the degradation of -the women of the so-called lower classes. A man who is or has been in -the army considers it beneath him to do honest labor, but not beneath -him to allow his wife to do it. - -_July 28th, 1888._--Life is a glorious gift, and a morning so bright and -lovely as this makes one thankful! Immediately after breakfast we went -to the castle, of which we have had views from a distance, and of which -all our lives we have heard so much. There it stood, massive and grand, -the most magnificent architectural ruin in the world. It is a ruin, but -there is very much more of the original building left than of -Kenilworth, that has walls only left; this has halls, rooms, and -chapels, some of which have been restored. There is a moat around it, -after crossing which we passed under and through a picturesque gateway, -from which ivy and wild vines were waving, and entered the courtyard. -The façade is of three stories, and on it are allegorical figures, -statues, medallions, and stone carvings. Tradition gives Michael Angelo -as the architect of this façade. Ball-rooms and banquet-halls were shown -to us, some containing paintings in a fairly good state of preservation, -which seems more remarkable when we consider that they have been there -since long before America was discovered. Of the woman who acted as our -guide we asked many questions, for one feels so much more interest in -the history of a place when on the spots talked of. She was well -informed, and told us what we had often read, that the castle was built -in the thirteenth century, and that for several hundred years the Counts -Palatine lived here in royal magnificence, and that at one period -eighteen hundred persons formed the family, or the Court, of the -Elector. No wonder they needed fireplaces large enough to roast oxen -whole. The building was several times partly destroyed by armies, but -was rendered useless to live in by lightning, at last. - -What jolly times the high in power and the old sprigs of royalty in -those days meant to have! One would have surely a dull imagination, or -no imagination at all, who could here wander from room to room and not -see with the mind’s eye the revellings of the long ago. The big tun in -the cellar is hogshead-shaped, and really will hold forty-nine thousand -gallons, and has been twelve times filled with the best wines. Can you -comprehend such an amount, and a receptacle huge enough to contain it? -The ‘Elizabethan Bau’ still shows that Frederick V. brought his bride, -Elizabeth of England, to a princely home. But the silence and the decay -of these ‘banquet halls deserted’ remind us forcibly of the brevity of -the power and glory of this life, and should be a lesson to us to -prepare for the life to come, which only is lasting. The wonderful -beauty of the castle itself, the romantic situation, and the exquisite -landscape views from its rich stone terrace, will be choice pictures in -our memories for many a day. - -There are but few attractive shops in Heidelberg; plenty of bologna -sausages and pretzels; portraits and photographs of the two dead -emperors everywhere, and many of the new Emperor William. ‘The king is -dead. Long live the king.’ The city seems full of soldiers, all with -black crape on their arms, and the citizens--men, women, and -children--wear it also. Everything shows to us that we are indeed in -Germany. - -In our walks and drives in the town we have looked for the university -students, and we have seen them--plenty of them, with faces cut and -scarred, court-plastered and bandaged. What an abominable custom is -this: to allow these naturally fine looking young men to make each other -so hideous and repulsive in appearance for the rest of their lives. The -American students here have nothing whatever to do with this disgraceful -custom, and yet the Germans know well they are no cowards. A student -from New York gave evidence of his willingness to risk his life, in a -really noble act, by jumping into the River Neckar and saving the life -of a child who had fallen from the bridge here, a short time ago. These -German students are formed into five sections, or corps, and the members -of each corps wear caps alike, so that it may be known by all who see -them to which corps they belong. The colors are white, yellow, red, -blue, and green, and the members of one corps never allow themselves to -be in the least friendly with members of any other corps, for they may -have to haggle them with swords within the next twenty-four hours. These -corps students, we are told, belong to the most aristocratic families of -Germany, and yet at the slightest provocation, and indeed with no -provocation at all, they fight each other like wild cats. Very recently -one of the red caps, by mistake, took a book belonging to a white cap, -was challenged for so doing, and was slashed with his opponent’s sword -unmercifully. I tell you this, as told to us, to show you how little it -takes to cause a duel. If the members of the corps do not challenge each -other, the president of a corps challenges for them--fight they must, or -be forever branded as cowards, and to show the slightest sign of being -afraid to do so would make life in Heidelberg unbearable for them -forever after. In the duel, no matter how seriously one is hurt--his ear -may be cut off, or his nose split--he must not wince or show a sign of -the ‘white feather.’ Now is not this disgusting? Brave they say it makes -them! Thank God, our young men show their bravery in nobler directions! -Seeing students everywhere in our strolls about town, I wondered when -they studied, and asked many questions in regard to the rules of the -university. It seems rules are few. Heidelberg University gives to all -who choose to hear, at a very small charge, lectures on all the sciences -and arts, delivered by men of great wisdom; so if students wish to -learn, they have great opportunities. If they are indifferent, everybody -else is in regard to them; they can do as they please. We heard a great -deal of their capacity for, and indulgence in, beer drinking, but saw -little of it. - -In the old castle there is a banquet-room where they congregate for -their revels often. This grand old ruin now belongs to the Duke of -Baden. - -We have made some purchases of leather goods here--pocket-books, -card-cases, and so forth, extremely pretty and cheap--and they all bear -the impress of the castle; so you shall see many views of it when we get -home. At our hotel to-day a young American girl heard of the sudden -death of her father, and refused to be comforted. Poor dear child, how -our hearts went out in sympathy for her. And how hard it is for us all, -amid the sorrows and griefs of this life, to keep always God’s love for -us in view. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER X. - -MAYENCE, GERMANY, _July 29th, 1888_. - - -A fine city is this, a large one too, with broad, handsome streets. Our -first visit was, as usual, to the cathedral. Service was going on, and -this being some anniversary day, the church was profusely decorated with -fresh plants and flowers. The entire chancel was filled with ferns and -white blossoms. I sat a while listening to the service, but the only -portion of it I was capable of appreciating was the fine tone of the -organ as it sent out its waves of sweetness over me. When I arose to go -I could not find F., nor could I find the way out. A handsome old German -immediately comprehended my situation, and gallantly escorted me to the -door, and upon leaving me bowed nearly to the ground. The German -gentlemen are very polite; and when we were at Strassburg, at our first -table d’hôte dinner there, we were the only ladies at the table, and -there were ten gentlemen. We were the first to rise to leave, when, to -our surprise and embarrassment, every gentleman arose and bowed. We of -course recognized the courtesy by bowing also. In this Mayence cathedral -we saw the monument to Gen. Lahmberg, who was killed at the siege of -Mainz, and wondered at the ridiculousness of this costly piece of -marble, which is like this: a figure representing Death is pushing the -much-bewigged general into a sarcophagus, which appears altogether too -small for him. Some of the statues and monuments, however, were very -beautiful and appropriate; one of Frauenlob, the ‘champion of women,’ -exceptionally so. His bier was carried to the grave by eight beautiful -and noble women. - -Like the rest of the German cities, this one seems full of soldiers. At -the barracks we saw crowds of them, and in the streets saw several -regiments marching, fine-looking specimens of mankind, and moving as if -one man. I am told that in this one town there are more soldiers than in -our whole army. That may be so, but I am thankful that our men devote -their lives to better uses than the everlasting preparing for war! Think -of the progress of our comparatively new country. Think of the condition -of our working people! Think of the multitude of invaluable inventions -American brains have given to the world! And when war has to come, that -good may come from it, American men are not far behind, but they do not -spend much time in ‘playing soldier.’ True it is that the military -spirit pervades, fills, the whole of Germany in all ways and in all -directions. At all of the railway stations it greets and surrounds us. -Every man in Germany has served a number of years in the army. They all -stand in a military attitude, and walk with a military step. The -railroad officials and employees have all been soldiers. The rank of -their present positions is indicated by their special uniforms. The -captain of the station wears a showy costume of blue trousers with a red -side-stripe, a frock coat, double-breasted, a gilt belt, and plenty of -large gilt buttons, and a red cap always, with gilt trimmings. The -guards are also dressed in uniform, but wear blue caps. When the -passengers alight, these guards bow and salute, whether to do honor to -the arrivals, or whether the salutes were for each other only, I cannot -say, but will say it is a pretty custom, and much superior to the -hurry-scurry, jostle-about manner of the depot employees in our own -cities. - -The railroad stations in Germany are very much finer than our own. The -interiors of the buildings are neat, with comfortable furnishings, fine -restaurants, and dress-coated waiters quick and ready to serve. The -station-houses are surrounded with well-cared-for grounds, containing -flowers, fountains often, gravelled walks, and comfortable seats, so -that waiting for trains never becomes tedious. Think of all this, you -who wait at some of our country stations! And, better than all, every -man is courteous and polite, never in too much of a hurry to answer -questions and give information. To the captain at the station here we -are particularly indebted for kindness and grateful to him for his -assistance, and especially for rendering all as if it were his greatest -pleasure. In a drive about the city we visited the museum. Saw many -quaint old buildings, watch-towers, statues, the Elector’s palace, and a -variety of other fine buildings. - -_Grand Hotel du Rhin, Wiesbaden, Germany, July 30th, 1888._--I believe -Wiesbaden is more attractive than Baden. At any rate, nothing could have -charmed me more than the appearance of this town--the name of which -means ‘Meadow bath’--in the lovely drive we have just had through its -pretty streets, bordered with fine trees and magnificent residences. -Hotels are crowded, as we are here in the season for fashionable -recreation and rest, and perhaps I may add, fashionable dissipation. -People bathe in and drink the unsavory waters, and think they are made -as good as new. The springs are a curiosity, and as the water bubbles up -to the surface it emits clouds of vapor, and sends out an odor -suggestive of having washed out Hades. We were fortunate in meeting, in -our drive, Louise, Princess of Nassau, in a very ordinary-looking -turnout, and not prepossessing-looking herself, but our driver informed -us that she is charitable and well-beloved by all. We, later, visited -the palace of the Duke of Nassau. There is a pretty English church here, -and a very beautiful Greek chapel, built by one of the Nassau dukes in -memory of his Russian wife. A figure of the sleeping Duchess, in white -marble, is lovely. These Greek chapels have always a gilded dome. The -natural beauties of Wiesbaden are numerous and unusual. It is said -Kaiser William loved the place. - -This evening we went to the Cursaal, a handsome edifice, in which are -ball-rooms, concert rooms, and so forth. There are beautiful grounds, -beautifully laid out, around the building, with parterres of flowers, -miniature lakes, fountains, rustic arbors and seats, and everything to -make the place attractive. The Cursaal, the gardens, and the colonnades -were all brilliantly illuminated, and a fine band playing in front of -the piazza on which we sat. The seats and gardens were thronged with -people,--sitting or walking about, chatting, drinking wine or beer, -listening to the fine music, and having a good time generally. Before -the suppression of gambling in 1872, it was here carried on to about as -great an extent as at Baden. While sitting taking in the brilliant -scene, a lady sitting next me, who could speak a little English, -addressed me. It was quite evident that her tongue must move constantly -in some language. She was ‘cute’ and discerning, and after looking us -well over, ventured to ask, as if know she must, ‘American or English?’ -‘American,’ I replied. ‘I thought so; and you never saw a sight like -this before, did you?’ Many of the intelligent people over here seem to -think that there is nothing ornamental or beautiful in America, and it -gives me great pleasure to undeceive and surprise them. Many seem to -have an idea that we are as crude as savages. - -These watering-places have some advantages over our own Saratoga and the -Springs of Virginia, in the way of natural scenery, drives, and foliage, -but the hotels at this place do not equal our own, the equipages are far -less elegant, and one can see more handsome women and more tasteful -costumes in one day at Newport than in a whole season here. This hotel -we have not liked as well as the one in which we stayed at Baden. Our -meals have been served in a sort of rustic arbor on a large scale, -gorgeously gotten up, with vines, evergreens, running water, and -flowers; but I must say I had rather eat in the house, where there are -no suggestions of bugs or worms; but the Germans love to eat and drink -out of doors. My candle is growing short, therefore I must make this -letter so, with loving thoughts of you all. Good-night. - -_Tuesday, July 31st, 1888._--The sun shone brightly in answer to our -prayers this morning, and we are thankful, for we did want a clear sky -for our canopy while on the Rhine. At seven A.M. we left our hotel, and -were driven a distance of three miles, over a fine road, to the river, -where we found a boat ready for us. The steamers that ply on the Rhine -look very different from our own craft. They are long, narrow, and low. -We made our way on board, with hands full of maps and descriptive -books, with the rest of the crowd, picked up our stools as we went -along, and seated ourselves for a day’s trip on the Rhine, filled with -‘unspeakable emotions’ and a poor breakfast. - -At first we see but little of interest,--small villages, gardens, -vineyards, and inns, near the water, and excursionists sitting on their -porticos eating and drinking. Occasionally a cross or a statue on the -hillside varies the scene. We are disappointed in the vineyards: the -vines run up on sticks, and look like stunted pole-bean vines growing, -and our expectations of graceful green-clothed arches and arbors vanish. -‘How muddy the water looks, too!’ said I, ‘and when or where do we get -to the delightful part of the Rhine?’ A young German gentleman sat near -us, who evidently did not like that question, as if it could be for once -thought that any part of the romantic river could be anything but -beautiful. I will tell you more of this gentleman later. At Bingen we -made our first stop, and thought, as everybody does, of Mrs. Norton’s -poem. And I thought of the little boy I so earnestly once trained to -recite her touching lines:-- - - ‘O friend, I fear the lightest heart - Makes sometimes heaviest mourning.’ - -From childhood we have read of the Rhine and its romantic legends, and -now to us it seems as if every spot must be inhabited by princes and -princesses, dragons, warriors, knights and syrens. The tower, called the -Mouse Tower, which is in the middle of the river, was built in order to -collect taxes from every boat that passed. The legend runs that an -archbishop, at the time of a famine, took what grain there was from the -poor, for his own wants. The starving throng begged him for bread, and -he said to them, ‘You shall have it; go into that empty barn and I will -give you warm bread!’ The people rushed into the barn, when he closed -the doors, and set it on fire, and when they all cried out in terror he -coolly said, ‘Listen to the pipings of the mice.’ From the ashes of the -people armies of mice came to devour him; he rushed to the tower for -safety; but the mice, undaunted, followed him, and ate his flesh to the -bone, and his skeleton was found in the Rhine. You will recall now these -words of the poem-- - - ‘They whetted their teeth against the stones, - And then they picked the bishop’s bones.’ - -Fragments of poetry come to one’s mind constantly here, for nearly every -spot has been sung of by some one. - -Near by is the great ruin of the Castle Ehrenfels, where the Archbishop -of Mayence, or Mainz, as the Germans say, used to flee for safety in -times of agitation. Opposite is the Castle of Rheinstein (Rhine Stone), -which has been restored, and is owned and often occupied by the royal -family of Germany, and looks indeed very inviting. The legend connected -with this castle is a pretty tale, because the end gives Gerda, the -lovely daughter of Count Siegfried, to Kuno, the man she loved, -notwithstanding the treachery of his bachelor cousin Kurt, who -endeavored to win her for himself, but as a meet punishment fell from -his horse while following her and was killed. Kuno inherited his -estates, and he, with Gerda, ever after ‘lived in peace.’ - -We saw the _Siebenjungfrauen_, ‘Seven Virgins,’ now seven cold rocks, -once beautiful maidens. The Lurlei, a river nymph, turned them into -stone for flirting too much with the susceptible youth of the Rhine. -Near by are the huge rocks of the Lurlei, where dwelt the syren, whose -sweet voice lured all who heard it, and whose greatest delight was to -charm these admirers on to their own destruction. It is said that even -now, at the uncanny hour of midnight, the phantom of a boat can be seen, -with the shadowy figure of a man with outstretched arms standing in the -centre, gazing toward the cliff, where he had once seen and been -entranced by the lovely maid and her sweet voice. - - “To the Rhine, to the Rhine, go not to the Rhine, - My son, I counsel thee well: - For there life is too sweet and too fine, - And every breath is a spell. - The Nixie calls to thee out of the flood; - And if thou her smiles shouldst see, - And the Lorelei, with her beautiful lips, - Then ’tis all over with thee; - For bewitched and delighted - Yet seized with fear, - Thy home is forgotten, - And mourners weep here.” - -I become so absorbed in all these old traditions, that I feel like -telling you the stories as if they were new, but you know them all, and -I must stop or weary you, for you are in practical Boston, and I on this -historic, romantic stream. Near us, on the boat, sat a -distinguished-looking party of Germans, one of whom was the young -gentleman I previously alluded to, and who had watched us, we felt, with -considerable interest, for the citizens of one nation are always -interested in travellers from far-off lands, taking notes of their own. -Hearing me ask of F. a question in regard to one of the old ruins, which -information she was unable to give me, he kindly volunteered the desired -explanation, apologizing at the same time for addressing us. He was -every inch a gentleman, and spoke English a little. His knowledge of -everything in the vicinity, his kind attentions, and the use of his -superior glasses, added greatly to the pleasure of our trip. I think he -_looked_ at my companion, but he talked with me, and was charming. ‘Have -you reached “the delightful part of the Rhine”?’ he asked, and I felt -that I had. The only really beautiful portion is from Bingen to Bonn. It -is between these cities that the river turns and winds from one -mountain side to the other, on whose heights stand the picturesque old -ruins--castles, convents, and crags. Of course the Drachenfels, or -Dragon’s Rock, with the castle ruins, brought to us many memories of the -‘Niebelungen Lay,’ for it was here, on this romantic ground, that young -Siegfried showed his wonderful strength, which has been told and sung of -ever since. If only he had dipped his entire body in the dragon’s blood, -and not left the one spot exposed! But, ah me! I fear we all have the -one vulnerable spot somewhere, for we are all human! In and near this -vicinity the finest grapes grow, and the vineyards are extensive and -receive constant care. - -We made a short stop at Bonn, long enough to see the fine statue of -Beethoven, who was born here, and who was descended from a family of -wonderful musicians. Saw the university buildings also, where a young -gallant, once ours, studied, and then we pushed on down the river, the -banks now flat and of little interest, until Cologne came in sight. - -Yes, we have greatly enjoyed the Rhine, but taking it entire, I am a -little disappointed, and as these are honest letters, telling you of -sights just as I am impressed by them, I must say, that with the -exception of that portion of the river I have spoken of to you, which is -bordered by the mountains, castle-tipped, I think our own Hudson, with -its lovely banks and its shadowy Catskills, the more beautiful. I am -thinking now of the time, one year ago, when I sat on the deck of the -Mary Powell running up past the grand palisades and dear, lovely, old -West Point. Well, I shall be homesick if I dwell upon that trip. Our -attentive German escort, whose card has told us that he is the son of -Baron von H., and a student at Bonn, now taking his vacation, requested -my consent to accompany us to our hotel, as he was to stop at the same -one, hoping to be able to be of service to us, which very kind offer we -declined, and stepped into a droschky, which soon safely landed us at -the Hotel Disch. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER XI. - - -COLOGNE. - -Our room was all ready for us, and it was a fine one, and a -rocking-chair in it, as sure as we are here, the first one seen since -leaving Paris. How home-like! Letters, too! the best welcome of all. One -from you, dear, who have proved by services and self-sacrifices that -‘love’ is more than a word; and two from dear friends whose rare -friendship has known no change. How eagerly we read them! How thankful -to know you are all well! Oh how far away in body we feel from you -to-night! - -A rap at the door! A note handed me! What is this? Credentials, and a -letter formally introducing our young fellow-traveller of our trip down -the Rhine. He was well known by our hotel proprietor. Well, he has -worked rapidly since landing to try to assure us more earnestly that he -is the gentleman he seemed, and of which I was perfectly positive -without his having taken all this trouble. He sends us some fresh, sweet -roses, and asks if he may sit with us at table d’hôte. A little resting -in our room, a little lingering at the window, from which we have a fine -view, and our first, of the great cathedral, and down to dinner we go, -Miss F. not forgetting to wear her share of the lovely jacqueminots. Our -friend was waiting for us, and looked handsomer than ever in his fine -dress-suit. We were all hungry, and did wish a little more speed could -be used in serving table d’hôte dinners. If one is sight-seeing, and -desires the time for something besides waiting, these long-drawn-out -affairs require the patience of a Job to sit to the end of them. - -After dining we walked out into one of the parks and heard excellent -music, looked about the old town, guided by our German, who was familiar -with every spot and who quite educated us upon Cologne and its history. -Upon bidding him good-night, he said he should be happy to escort us -about the next day, but previous arrangements compelled us to decline -with the heartiest of thanks. He was disappointed, and the big, dreamy -blue eyes rested upon the sun-browned girl with me, who looks thoroughly -the tramp she is. They two converse in German, and so rapidly! I must -practise German more; I can hardly follow them. Why will people talk all -languages but our own as if tongues were propelled by steam? - -_Hotel Disch, Cologne, August 1st, 1888._--Thanks we offer for a good -night’s rest and for this lovely morning. Our bell rings, and I find at -our door a maid with a basket of exquisite flowers tied with blue -ribbon, colored, I am sure, with the reflection of a certain pair of -eyes. A card, with the donor’s name, hoping the ladies are well. A -pretty morning welcome, surely! We receive a call later, and bid -God-speed to our German friend, who seems as reluctant to leave us as we -are to have him go. But such is travelling: we meet as ships at sea, -salute each other and then pass on. Moral of this little episode: If -you wish in journeying about to have plenty of attention, take a young -lady with you. - -Cologne, or Köln, is a large city, and in some of the streets where much -of the perfume is made the odor is very evident and much more welcome -than the cheese scent of Berne or the garlic-impregnated air of some of -the German towns. This is a fascinating old place, and the streets of -shops, gay, bright, and progressive looking, and the old, narrow, -crooked thoroughfares very odd, with their queer old buildings. The -garrison here contains seven thousand soldiers: think of their seven -thousand ‘ribs’ at home digging potatoes. There are many churches here, -old towers and fountains, an archbishop’s palace, and statues of the -different German emperors, one fine one of Gen. Moltke and one of -Bismarck, all good specimens of careful work. Cologne water is for sale -everywhere, stores of it, in bottles and flasks of every shape, on the -street corners, in the corridors of hotels, and children rush up to you -and take it out of their pockets, urging you to buy. Throughout Germany -I have seen the beautiful face of Queen Louise carved, chiselled, -painted and photographed, but here, in an art store, I saw an engraving -of the same sweet face, the loveliest of all. No wonder old Emperor -William cherished her memory so sacredly, and forgot not the insults of -Napoleon heaped upon his beloved, noble mother. We went, for a short -time in each, to the Zoological and the Botanical gardens. We thought we -would see some of the sights of the town before going into the -cathedral, but the huge pile was before us at every turn and we could -wait no longer to see the crowning glory of the place. - -Cologne Cathedral! Dear, of this great piece of Gothic architecture, -with its majestic arches, columns, pillars, windows, and all else that -helps make up its wonderful beauty, I have no words to tell you. It is -perfect: nothing has equalled it. We wandered about, then seated -ourselves, with never before in our lives so beautiful a perspective -before us, and I was so overpowered with it all that I am not sure but I -should still be sitting there if F. had not said, ‘Come, we must see the -chapels.’ There are seven of them, all filled with costly pictures and -relics. In the treasury of the church there are gold and silver, -diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and rubies enough to buy bread for all -Germany. The beautiful churches of this country, the wonderful telling -of sacred stories in their paintings, the speaking statues, which bring -to us the ‘good tidings’ anew, the soothing, restful colors, are all -great lessons and we can get much good from them. But the sacristies, -filled with gold and silver in meaningless shapes, precious, costly gems -imbedded in old skulls repulsive to look upon, are indeed abominations. -If all these riches were turned into money to help the Saviour’s poor, -would it not be a better way of doing ‘His bidding’? For the poor and -the hungry are not far from the masses of wealth, wherever or in -whatever form it may be. I appreciate æsthetically this dazzling display -of artistic splendor and riches, but my heart goes out in pity and -sympathy toward the multitude who are taxed to support it. And are not -these terrible differences, whether in church or in society, the seed -which may some time grow into anarchy and revolution? Even in dear, -good Boston, not long ago, I heard a delicate woman, who toiled daily -for her invalid husband and three little ones, say, ‘I am so discouraged -to-day in my struggle for the necessities of life that it is almost -maddening to take up the paper and see that Mrs. A. had a thousand -dollars worth of flowers at her ball last night, that Mrs. B. wore a ten -thousand dollar necklace, and so on.’ - -This town is well supplied with churches, there being twenty noted ones -here. I did not feel much inclined to see anything less impressive than -the cathedral, but submissively followed F. to St. Ursula, for, she -said, nowhere else could I see the bones of eleven thousand virgins. And -sure enough, there they were! many of them placed in position, like -rails in a Virginia fence. Three thousand skulls are also ranged along -on shelves together, grinning silently at each other. If Hamlet runs out -of skulls, there are plenty in Cologne. The decorations, however, would -probably not be thrown in, as they are worth a good deal more than the -skulls. Some wear embroidered and jewelled hoods, others wear caps of -silver and gold. There is a painting of St. Ursula here,’ and the shrine -of St. Ursula, set with precious stones. ‘And this is the arm-bone of -St. Ursula,’ said our solemn guide. ‘Is it really?’ said I. ‘And this is -her foot,’ ‘My! just think of it, F.! St. Ursula’s foot!’ And with -renewed solemnity our guide continued, ‘And this is her hair net,’ ‘Her -hair net! do let me see it closer. Are her false crimps here also?’ ‘And -here are the teeth of the virgins,’ ‘Blessed virgins! they will never -have the toothache any more from these teeth!’ ‘And here is the vase in -which the water was turned to wine at the marriage-feast at Cana, in -Galilee!’ ‘Is it possible? do you really believe it?’ said I. The man--a -handsome priest--bowed low and crossed himself. Much of the story of St. -Ursula and her pilgrimage is illustrated in paintings on the walls of -the church. We surely had our money’s worth, and our fill of churches -for one day. - -Our German friend does not forget us, although now miles away! Flowers, -and a letter to F., which we find upon returning to our hotel, prove -this. The letter is so ‘cute,’ and so original, also, in its attempts to -express its writer’s feelings in English, that I will copy it for you, -word for word, for you will appreciate it, and I am sure he would not -object, for you do not even know his name:-- - - MY DEAR MISS ----: I fear this first letter will be very - sentimental, but I cannot help it. I must once more tell it to you - how sorry I am that I fear our acquaintance will now be finished - already, and how much I felicite myself to have had the bonheur of - this acquaintance. Also I feel obliged to thank you much for the - confidence you kindly have had in granting unto me this - acquaintance. It I never will forget. Yes, it is a bad, sorry word, - the word Abschied. I don’t know it meant in English. Before all, if - we pronounce it, with the very doubtful hope to see the person - everywhere again, to whom we have to pronounce that word. You must - have seen how much it gave me pain and trouble to say it to you - that evening. By writing, that goes better, than I not do see your - eyes, hear your voice, feel your presence but in mind. I now bow - down for trying to say to you that forever I will cherish you, as I - was an old friend of yours, and that I desire, of all my heart, you - may be as happy in all your life as anybody can be, and as you want - to be. Wherever you exist, all my wishes and love will be for you, - and all the regards for Madame ---- accompanying you. And now, enough - of my deep feelings, for I fear you may become angry to so hear - them, and regulate of your promise to hear my correspondence. If - you will have a next letter, I will do my very better to be less - melancolie in that following letter, for to-day I cannot else. - Allow me pleasure to send you some sweet roses--similie, similie, - say the homeopaths; that means--O I know here that means true here, - and you must know it. Farewell, my sweet American lady, and - good-bye. My hope and longing for the seeing you again is - inexplicable. Please now make my most respectful compliments to - Madame ----, and do hold me, while life lasts, in your good - friendship. I hope you will excuse my bad English, for it all - comes from this heart, and not from this head of your faithful - friend forever, who is in pain to say adieu to you, and more than - ever before must I go to America and your city Boston. I pray you - do write to me, your friend, who shall wait and watch for your - words. - ----- ----.’ - - - -I doubt if we could answer in German, on paper, and make ourselves as -clearly understood. We hope sometime to see our devoted and much-valued -friend again. - -_Hotel Disch, August 2d, 1888._--We have had a long drive about the city -to-day. We saw the bridge of boats and went into the cathedral for the -third time, and each time its beauty impresses us more and more. If the -tradition connected with the architecture of the cathedral is true, that -his Satanic majesty designed it, he certainly did that better than any -of the rest of his works. The exterior is also most pleasing to the eye, -look at it in any way you will, and the spires, the towers, and the -buttresses, with their elaborately carved pinnacles, are ‘things of -beauty,’ never to be forgotten. - -In our ramble later in the day through the streets, which seem to be -laid out something like half circles, a little ragamuffin pulled my -dress and asked in German, ‘Can I show you the horses.’ The child’s -dirty face was wan and haggard, so we could not begrudge a few pennies -given him, and I took his hand, which seemed to please him immensely and -on we walked together. ‘There they are,’ said he. And sure enough, -looking from a second story window of an old house are two gray horses, -stuffed, I presume, but their appearance is very life-like. The story -explaining their being there runs like this. The beautiful wife of a -rich man apparently died. The grief of the husband was so intense that -he would allow no one to come near her, and placed her in the tomb -himself, with her rich garments and jewelry on. Thieves went at night to -steal these articles, when at their touch she arose and asked, ‘Where am -I?’ The men, alarmed, ran away at full speed, leaving the doors open, -and the woman, who had only been in a trance, walked out into the -street, and to her husband’s house. She knocked at the door until her -husband was aroused and asked who knocked. She replied, ‘It is I, thy -own Richmodis, thy wife,’ ‘No,’ said he, ‘my wife is dead, and the dead -rise no more; sooner would my two grays trot up the staircase into my -room and look out of the window.’ He immediately heard a noise, and his -two horses came into his room, placed their fore feet on the window sill -and looked out, and there they have been looking ever since. And the -poor wife, let us hope, was received as flesh and blood. Old traditions -and history repeat themselves constantly in these ancient foreign -cities. - -A party of young girls, with their teacher, arrived at our hotel to-day -from Massachusetts, and it was a delight to see their faces and to hear -our own tongue. E. reached us this evening from Bayreuth, filled to the -brim with Wagner, and greatly regretting that we were not there to see -and to hear. Of the latter pleasure we know something from the -exquisitely rendered Parsifal selections given at our own Symphony -Concerts, but to see Parsifal in the home of its composer is a delight -yet to come. - -_August 3d, 1888._--Leaving Cologne, and carrying much cologne with us, -we started at nine o’clock A.M. for Utrecht, turning our faces toward -the cathedral’s spire as long as we could catch a glimpse of it, and -soon we are out of Germany and in Holland. For all the Germans drink so -much beer, we have never seen in the country one intoxicated person, and -who could go far in our own land and say that? ’Tis true, and pity ’tis -’tis true,’ that the poor whiskey deluded Americans drink is many times -more deadly and destructive than beer. Although we have had few -opportunities of seeing the better class of Germans in their homes, we -know that home-life is sweet and sacred to them, and the Germans are -everywhere proverbially honest and their word to be depended upon. Their -country is not only a military one, but it is the nation of music, of -the sciences, and people of all other nations flock here for -instruction. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER XII. - - -At Utrecht, our first Holland city, at the station, we had our first -glimpse of a Holland lady in her national costume. She stepped from her -carriage and stood near us for several moments, and in that time, I -fear, we proved to be as good ‘starers’ as the French are. I wish I -could make you see her just as I did. She was a large-framed, -good-looking woman. Her dress skirt was of stiff black satin, in length -considerably above her ankles. She wore a full white waist, over which -she had a jacket, cut the shape of a zouave garment, of black cloth, -upon the front of which seemed to be gilt or gold ornaments, that looked -like military decorations; but her head rigging was the oddest of all. -First she had on a cap-like covering, that looked as if made of white -tarleton, with a full front, into which were stuck numerous gold pins, -from the heads of several of which diamonds flashed; a broad gold band -ran from side to side across her forehead, and from each end hung a gold -ornament; over this she wore a flaring straw bonnet. She had on white -kid gloves, and looked and moved every inch a lady. - -We were a good while delayed before being able to get a two-seated -carriage, for everybody in the sleepy old town moved slowly, but after a -while we were furnished with an open barouche and a handsome pair of -slow-moving black horses, and were driven about the city. Utrecht means -‘Old Ford,’ and the place looks quiet and dull, although it has a -beautiful park and many fine, large residences, but they all seemed shut -up; and we came to the conclusion, after a disgusting incident a little -later, of which I will tell you, that the older people were off -travelling. - -On one of the best streets of Utrecht stood a group of well-dressed -children, intelligent and attractive looking. Just as I had finished a -remark complimentary to them, we were covered, deluged, blinded with mud -and manure thrown at us by these remarkably innocent looking children, -who had grouped there for this very purpose with the dirt in their -hands, coolly awaiting and watching our approach. A second time, in -another part of the city, we were attacked in the same manner by -children, and this time E. rushed from the carriage, so indignant was he -at the coarse outrage; and although both times the children took fast to -their heels, they would have been severely and justly punished if I had -not begged our defender to let them go, and not take up the little time -we had in having them overtaken. Our driver said it was a very common -occurrence for the youth of the town to thus attack strangers. I just -longed to give them a good Yankee chastisement. We visited the -cathedral, and my companions went up into the tower, from which they had -a good view, but I had seen all of Utrecht that I desired, but was -destined to see one more disturbing scene. - -A canal runs through the town, and the boats are mostly managed and -towed along by women,--old white-haired women lifting and tugging away -at bags and barrels, pulling at the ropes of the boats; and at the rope -of one huge canal boat a _woman_ and a _cow_ were pulling together. The -water in the canal was low and the mosquitoes were high, for they also -attacked us in our carriage, the very first ones we have met with on the -continent. So, after a really good dinner--the only acceptable attention -received by us in Utrecht,--we were glad to push on to Amsterdam. - -Holland is largely a grazing country, very level, with vast pastures -filled with cattle, horses, and sheep, all fine-looking specimens of -their race. At one little station where we waited I stepped close to a -dike, on the other side of which were hundreds of sheep; as if by one -consent they all raised their heads and looked at me in such a human way -that I felt like an intruder, bowed respectfully to them, and retreated. -The Holstein cattle are noble-looking creatures, and the horses of -Holland handsome animals,--dignified steppers, but heavy and slow. -Cattle and horses are all black, or black and white, and all the cats I -have yet seen here are black. I saw four big black tabbies at Utrecht. -We pass through several little Dutch villages, see farmhouses in the -distance, glints of blue water far away, dikes all about us, and, as we -near Amsterdam, big windmills without number. And here we are! - -_Amsterdam, August 4th, 1888._--Do you remember our old Dutch nurse, who -used to tell me stories, in Pittsburg, Penn., of her home in Amsterdam? -And now here I am to tell you a little about the same place as I see it. -Our first stroll revealed to us one of the queerest, quaintest cities we -had anywhere visited. Directly after breakfast we went to the markets, -where the peasantry were selling fruit, vegetables, fowl, crocheted -articles, plants and flowers, cheese, butter, and much else; the venders -themselves, in their queer dress, being the most attractive of all to -us. The women nearly all wore the queer-looking head-dresses of their -country, although not made up as richly as the one we saw at Utrecht, -and all had on heavy, woollen stockings and wooden shoes, and when not -busy otherwise were vigorously knitting. - -From the market we went to the quarters of the poorer class of Jews, -where the streets were narrow, the homes squalid, and the little rooms -fairly crowded with human beings, packed closer than were ever sardines. -In one small, dirty front entry we counted sixteen children. Our -carriage was surrounded, every time we stopped, by crowds of lookers-on, -young and old, tattered and torn, but all behaved well. ‘How true it is -that one half of the world knows not how the other half lives’, There -are about thirty thousand Jews in this city,--many richer than kings, -and many who know not ‘where to lay their heads.’ - -Acquaintances who have visited this city have given me different ideas -of it, more disparaging it than praising, but I find it delightful, and -filled with interest. - -Amsterdam, now the capital of Holland, you know, and by far its richest -city, was in the twelfth century only a small village. When the -Spaniards persecuted the so-called Reformers of other Dutch and Flemish -towns, they fled to Amsterdam, taking with them their riches and their -industries, and to them the place owes the beginning of prosperity. The -River Amstel divides the place, the one side being called the Oude Zijde -(old side), and the other Nieuwe Zijde (new side). It is said that -ninety canals intersect the city, and I know there is one in about every -street, and drawbridges are built over them. In the prettier parts of -the city these canals have avenues of handsome residences, and lines of -shade trees on one or both sides. On these houses, nailed close to the -side of the upper windows, we observed the so-called ‘Spiegless’ -mirrors--on hinges, which could be turned so as to allow a person -sitting within to see all that was going on in the street below, up or -down. They answer the purposes of our bay-windows. In some of the older -parts of the city the queer Dutch houses are painted black, with white -trimmings, and were apparently ‘dropped down’ together, and remain -wherever they happened to light, Marblehead-like; and in many of them -the upper story pitches forward, as if to greet the opposite roof, in a -most neighborly and social manner, and altogether they are exceedingly -picturesque. - -We visited one of the large diamond factories, and saw every process -used on the stone in its rough condition, to cause it to become the -glittering, costly gem, ready for the adornment of ‘my lady.’ The -different work upon the stones was to me intensely interesting. We saw -little mounds of diamonds, cut and polished, ready for the diamond -market, that were radiantly brilliant. The gentleman who escorted us -through the building was very polite, and exerted himself to give us -clear explanations of everything we wished to understand. Two officials -kept pretty close to us, however; they may have thought that ‘piles’ of -diamonds might prove too seductive for even American honesty. These -mills give employment to about ten thousand workmen, mostly Jews, and -many of the establishments are owned by wealthy Jews. Most of the best -cut stones of the present age have been cut here. Well, we cannot always -live amongst diamonds, so out into the air we go, for if but one can be -ours, the latter is better,--oxygen rather than carbon. - -The commerce of the place is extensive, as a visit to the docks proved. -Ships from nearly every part of the world bring merchandise here, and -take back the products of Holland. Amsterdam cheese, gin, and chocolate -we well know, but we did not suppose so many other valuable articles -were manufactured here. We see not merely one woman at work here on the -boats, but hundreds of women. Many of them know no other home; whole -families live on boats, children are born on them, and on them many -human beings close their eyes on this life. Everything about these boats -is scrupulously clean; pretty Dutch girls, with their short dresses and -wooden shoes, peep from behind the fresh, white muslin curtains to look -at us; and women who are not doing harder work sit around with the -inevitable queer head-dress on, and the blue kerchiefs pinned across -their breasts, knitting away as if lives depended upon stockings being -finished. These Amsterdam canal boats have sails, and look very odd to -us. - -We took a three-mile sail for a rest, then landed, and lunched in a -rose-embowered arbor in a pretty garden. Refreshed, we took a barge -back, thus getting good views of the river banks; and next went to the -Zoological Gardens, the best we have seen anywhere. How the beautiful, -bright-plumaged birds, walking and flying in the open air, seemingly -free from the almost invisible chains that held them, welcomed us in -their gorgeous costumes; how the tall flamingo showed us his best ballet -steps,--I have not time to give you details. The extensive aquarium -connected with the gardens contained a wealth of wonders. Why do we not -have places of such interest in Boston? As we stepped out of the garden -we observed, on a neat-looking house, a singular sign, ‘Hot Popjies.’ -With our usual curiosity we entered, and found that ‘popjies’ were -nothing more or less than genuine Yankee griddle cakes, and very good -ones too, served with butter and sugar. - -The best picture gallery in Amsterdam, the Rijks Museum, is the best in -Holland. Here we saw Rembrandt’s ‘Night Watch,’ of which we have often -seen engravings, but were not prepared for such beautiful effects of -colors as we found in the original. Near this painting is a still -larger one, representing a celebrated banquet of the City Guard of -Amsterdam, in 1684, by Vander Heist, and here too is Jan Steen’s ‘Lady -and the Parrot,’ and other beautiful paintings by this pleasing artist. -One picture here, by Gerard Duow, called the ‘Evening School,’ cost -forty thousand dollars, although not over a half-yard long, and not -measuring as much across. This painting has five or six different -effects of light produced on it from the burning candles represented. A -girl is pointing to her lesson with her finger, and a boy is writing on -a slate; a candle, held by another girl standing back of them, throws a -light on their backs, and another candle, lighted, which is on a table, -throws light upon their faces, but it would be impossible for you to -imagine the peculiar glow and loveliness of it all. All of the works -from this man’s easel are charming. There are here several of Paul -Potter’s paintings, wonderful in execution, and particularly to be -considered so when we think how young he must have been when he painted -them. Here are hens, chickens, geese, and ducks, all so natural that we -almost hear their cackle. Here are landscapes, interiors of Dutch homes, -and portraits without number, works of Tenier, Van Mieris, Van Dyck, -Peter Schilder, Dolens, Frans Hals, and the many other Dutch artists. It -is one of the most enjoyable collections of pictures we have anywhere -seen. It is a marvel to me how the old masters and the noted artists -ever did so much work; they must have gone right ahead, and not even -laid down their brushes long enough to have had pleasant little disputes -over the hanging of their pictures. But thanks to them for having left -to us such great sources of pleasure! - -Amsterdam abounds in excellent charitable institutions. I think I could -name over as many as there are in Boston; and there are schools and -societies for educating the poor, and for their advancement, that do -great credit to the citizens. I am told that the rich here of every sect -spend freely their money for the benefit of the poor. There is a palace -on a square called the Dam, in the middle of the city, containing large -rooms, but without much elegance excepting the ball-room. The churches -of the city are numerous, and some fine ones, but as we have not time to -see everything in this remarkable place, we have decided to omit the -churches this time. - -We were told of a ‘swell’ restaurant, and for a change dined there -to-day. It was a ‘swell’ place, we had a ‘swell’ dinner, and paid -‘swell’ prices. They certainly know how to tempt one’s appetite, but the -submitting to the temptation must be generously paid for. We have seen a -fine statue of Rembrandt; and we have observed objects very new to us, -which are queer, ludicrous-looking faces, over the doors of drug stores, -with mouths wide open, and tongues protruding, as if to show that they -were coated, or feverish, and needed doctoring. I was so amused at these -that I asked the meaning of them, if they had any, but no one seemed to -know, only that they were called ‘Gappers.’ - -After seeing pretty thoroughly the business part of the city, we were -more surprised than ever upon being driven to the aristocratic end, -where the wealthier people live, to find so much beauty. The streets -were broad and finely cared for; the residences palatial, large, and -varied in architecture, with beautiful grounds about them. Fine -carriages abounded, filled with well-dressed people, in whom we supposed -we saw the descendants of the Van Dycks, Van de Werffs, and all of the -other Vans; and these families maintain much elegance and regal style in -living. In this drive we had many glimpses of it; and ended the day by -being entertained right royally in one of these beautiful homes by a -gentleman and his charming family, to whom we had letters of -introduction, and who had previously called upon us, and engaged us for -the evening. If we could have spared time to accept, these people would -have extended many courtesies to us, and their cordial hospitality we -shall never forget. The whole of Amsterdam is indeed delightful, and far -exceeds my expectations. We leave it with regret. We made hasty -excursions to Haarlem, to see the wonderful hyacinths and tulips; and to -the over-clean town of Broek, where notices are put on doors ‘to take -off your shoes before entering;’ and to the Island of Marken, in the -Zuider Zee, to see the queer dress of the peasants who live there, and -never leave their homes, nor ever intermarry with the inhabitants of the -mainland. Their costume is the same as that worn by their ancestors of a -hundred years ago. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - -HOTEL VIEUX DOELEN, -THE HAGUE, HOLLAND, _August 6th, 1888_. - -In coming from Amsterdam here we saw water-lilies--sheets of them--on -rivers and dikes! Yes, just like our own New England blossoms. How I did -want the cars to stop, so that I could get a breath of their -fragrance--a breath of Cape Cod--a breath of Plymouth ponds--a breath of -East Taunton’s sweetest offerings! We saw storks too, tall and stately, -carrying with them good luck, and bearing good omens. Our hotel here is -a noted one; it is several centuries old, and has been always the -stopping place for members of noble families, travelling from all over -the world. It has been several times restored, and is very comfortable. -Peter the Great and his suite, King Don Ferdinand of Portugal, and a -list, as long as your arm, of kings, princes, and dukes, have been -registered as guests in this historic old mansion. On our arrival the -house was crowded, and to F. and myself was given the state guest -chamber, in which these crowned heads have rested. The furniture of the -large room, which is on the first floor, is massive, made of mahogany, -ebony and gilt, with light-blue silk coverings, and puffs of light-blue -silk to throw over our tired bodies. So much elegance for us, while E. -is tucked up under the roof somewhere, so full is the house. - -After arranging our luggage in our room, and resting a wee bit, off we -started for Scheveningen. It took but a short time to reach this -celebrated watering-place by steam-cars, which we took to save time. As -we stepped out of our car at the station a strange picture greeted us. -There before us was the North Sea, throwing its big waves toward the -beach--the first glimpse of sea that we had had for many a day, and its -roar was music to us. The broad beach was smooth, hard, and white, and -at this point was covered, as were also the dunes in back of it, with -the peasantry, Dutch women and children, old grandmothers, and mothers -with their little ones of all ages, playing in the beautiful white sand. -We spread our wraps on the beach, and sat down amongst them and we are -evidently as strange a sight to them, as they are to us. The wee urchins -gradually approach us in a shy manner, but E. coaxes them nearer by -distributing bits of coin amongst them, and speaking words which they -understand; and a close look at their sweet, fresh faces is worth the -price. These little ones are fair, rosy-cheeked, blue-eyed tots, with -long, flaxen tresses, surmounted by little, close, white caps. They are -dressed alike, in dark-blue dresses, with little handkerchiefs crossed -on their chests, and all wear wooden shoes. The costumes of old and -young vary but little, and all look fresh and clean. The women were -knitting, and chatting with each other, and occasionally one would go -toward the water, hold her hands over her eyes, and peer far out to sea. -They were straining their sight to catch glimpses of the boats that -carried the men most dear to them. These wives and mothers come -mornings with their fishermen, push them out on the water in their boats -with a ‘God speed you,’ and then stay on the beach, with their children -and their knitting, until the men sail in again. They then help drag the -boats on shore, unload, and carry the freshly caught fish to market. The -lucky fellow who has caught the greatest number of fish as his day’s -work is entitled to kiss the maid he thinks the prettiest in the crowd, -and the rest look on and clap their hands, and there seems to be no -jealousy amongst them. The Dutch fishing boats, with their brown sails, -are queer-looking craft, and have been painted by many of our own -artists. The beach from here extends for about forty miles, I am told, -in a straight line, washed by the cold North Sea waves--without rocks or -inlets. - -We next proceeded to the fashionable end of the beach; a division rope -separates the portion allotted to the fisherwomen from this. What will -divide the poor from the rich in heaven, I wonder? Will it not be Father -Abraham’s voice only, when he says the words, ‘Remember that thou in -thy lifetime receivedst thy good things’? How different this scene! Here -is a fashionable watering-place, with huge hotels, restaurants, stores, -and crowds of stylish people. This is more like Old Point, Narragansett, -or Newport than anything we have before seen. But the beach is superior -to any of these, and the bathing-wagons on wheels, in which the bathers -are carried to the water, and back to the hotels after their baths, were -quite new to us. They contain all toilet utensils, an abundance of -towels, and are most certainly a great improvement over the way bathers -at our own sea-side resorts come out of the water, with dripping -costumes clinging to the skin, to face a crowd of lookers-on. Here, too, -a space for those who bathe is roped off, and others are not allowed to -go within that enclosure. The bath-chairs were also a great delight to -me. Here were hundreds of them, basket-work, with covers and without, -and footstools added, in which we could sit and look upon the sea, -protected from the sun and the wind. Some were for one, and in others -two or three could sit together. The sense of rest was most delightful -in these chairs, with the broad, blue expanse of water and sky before -us. Gay, merry children were riding about on ponies and donkeys, and the -road between the hotels and the beach was filled with carriages and -people on horseback. - -But the hours flew rapidly amidst such scenes as these, and the sun was -going to rest; so, reluctantly, we turned our steps toward the big hotel -on the crest. The piazzas were crowded with people in full dress, but, -with our travelling gowns on, we mixed in, and went to dinner. In the -house was a beautiful hall or concert room, and after dinner the -Philharmonic Orchestra of Berlin gave a choice concert there. The music -was superb, and nowhere in Europe had we seen so fine-looking an -assemblage; many of the ladies were remarkably handsome, and all were -dressed in excellent taste. - -_Hotel Vieux Doelen, The Hague, August 7th._--You would have laughed had -you been with us in our fine room this morning. Our commode looks like a -sideboard, and is so high that I had to stand on a chair to take my -morning splash; and as I began to fill my bowl with water, something -jumped, and so did I. ‘The shade of Peter the Great!’ said F., but it -was only a little, harmless toad, which had probably come in at the -window, which I had left open. The arrangements for bathing and washing -in houses in this land are very meagre and inconvenient. - -The Hague seems a very elegant, sleepy, quiet city. The streets are -broad, many of them bordered with handsome limes, and the residences are -large and square. Canals are here, also, but do not seem to be used -much, if any, and the water looks stagnant. In one street, the odor from -the canal was very offensive, although the streets on its borders were -beautiful ones, and this is the residence of the Court; in fact, the -place has really the appearance of an exclusive little royal city -dropped in the centre of a grand old forest. It has pretty parks and -gardens, and a pleasant promenade around a lake, called the Vijver, or -fish pond, from the water of which the old palace seems to be rising. In -the square is the statue of William the Silent, who did so much to -effect the liberty of Holland, and who was a father to its people. This -brave man’s faith never failed him, nor did he ever swerve from what -seemed to him his duty, through political storms or discouraging -defeats; freedom for all, and the right to worship God in accordance -with the dictates of one’s own conscience he fought for as long as he -lived. In Delft, a little town near by, he was struck down by an -assassin. - -The best stores here have very little appearance, from the outside, of -being stores at all. Perhaps, as a sign, there is one elegant vase, or a -choice piece of drapery in the window; but upon stepping within, room -after room filled with exquisite goods surprises you--rare laces, china, -furniture, antiques, and everything else beautiful to tempt one to buy. - -I very much wished to go into the palace where the King of Holland and -his family live. We have seen many palaces where royalty has resided, -but few occupied by kings and queens at the present time. We succeeded -in gaining permission to do so, not expecting to see more than the state -apartments. As we neared the palace entrance we saw the royal carriage -stop at the door and the King and Queen and their little daughter the -Princess Wilhelmine, with a maid, enter it. The carriage was a heavy, -lumbering-looking affair with two horses only. We might have been much -nearer them, but our escort said no, as an introduction might then be -necessary, and it was no compliment to American ladies to be presented -to the present King of Holland, but I looked with all my eyes and this -is what I saw: A man, over seventy years old surely, feeble-appearing in -his gait, and, although not bad looking, with a certain tell-tale -appearance of having led a somewhat profligate life. The young Queen -Emma looks about twenty-eight, has a full face, bright complexion, and -pleasant expression, and was dressed in a gray costume. She is, you -know, his second wife, and a daughter of the Prince of Waldeck-Pyrmont, -one of the poor, insignificant sovereigns of Germany, and she is sister -to the Duchess of Albany, the daughter-in-law of Queen Victoria. It is -said there was much feeling on the part of the Dutch against this young -woman at first, for it was thought her great ambition was to be Queen of -the Netherlands; but she has made her way into the hearts of the people, -and has proved also a good wife and mother. The King’s first wife was -the Princess Sophia of Wurtemburg, and was a remarkably talented, -gracious woman, a fine linguist, musical, a charming conversationalist, -unaffected, affable in manner, and dearly beloved by her people. She -died about ten years ago. She had two sons, both now dead. So the little -Wilhelmine, whom we saw, will be, after her father’s death, which cannot -be far off, the Queen of Holland. She is a pretty child, and looked in -dress and movements no different from hundreds of our own little -eight-year-old girls. The people here seem to be much attached to their -king, and say he has been a benefactor to them, and that his public life -has been beyond reproach, whatever his faults in private life may have -been. - -As they drove away we entered the palace through the same door at which -they came out, and were most kindly shown through it. Their -breakfast-table remained just as the family had left it after taking -their morning meal. Probably servants do not hurry ‘to clear off the -table’ in royal households, any more than they do in our own homes when -we go out for a morning jaunt. Everything in the dining-room was rich -and elegant, and the gold breakfast-service worth looking at. The -drawing-rooms, reception-rooms, libraries, and other apartments were in -truth palatial, and altogether it was by far the finest palace we have -seen. - -They have another palace about three miles away, called -‘Huis-ten-Bosch,’ or House in the Wood, to which a little later we were -driven; and it was a drive, the memory of which will always seem -restful. The day was lovely, and as we rolled along over the splendid -road in the woods, which is really an immense, woody park, retaining all -its natural beauties, it was so quiet that we could hear a leaf fall. -The birds only broke the stillness with their occasional trills, and we -met no life on our way excepting a party of ladies on horseback with -their groom. After so much bustle the restful, shadowy stillness was -delightful to us. This summer palace is a plain building surrounded by -beech trees, is very richly furnished, and contains valuable pictures -and rare, costly ornaments, superb draperies, and curiosities. Queen -Sophia dearly loved this ‘Huis-ten-Bosch,’ and spent much of her time -within it. Here she cordially welcomed her friends, without ceremony, -forgetful of station and self, ever keenly alive to the happiness and -needs of all who came into her presence. She once remarked ‘that God -seemed nearer to her here than elsewhere.’ The present Queen seldom -comes here. - -We next went into the Holland Exposition, now open. O dear! the days are -not half long enough to see all we wish to. You will be glad, I know, -when I tell you that we do not get very tired. We ride instead of -walking much, so as to save our strength for interiors where we must -walk and stand; and we eat often, for E. says ‘machinery so constantly -run must be often oiled.’ How I wish I could run in to ‘144’ to-day and -have one of their delicious home dinners,--roast chickens, all kind of -vegetables, prepared just right, jellies and pickles, and all at hand -when wanted, and, not the least of the sweets, the always sweet welcome, -thrown in! We do get so tired of these table d’hôte dinners,--every dish -served without any seasoning, and only one at a time, and the waits -between courses long enough for one’s hair to grow gray. And yet what -creatures of habit we are. E. likes it, because he has lived over here -so much of his life that he has become accustomed to it. It is a -perverted taste, and most surely a great waste of precious time. Our -bill of fare for dinner has been just about the same every day since we -left the Schweizerhoff at Schaffhausen, where it was most acceptably -varied. - -To show that we can be wrongly educated in our appreciation of food and -in the way we eat it, I will venture to tell you a true story of a -little boy we know, who had lived in France and Germany the greater part -of his life of ten years. He was taken to New York a year or so ago, and -there studied English with his governess. One fine day his aunt took him -to her home in the country to spend the day. When he returned at night -he said he was hungry. ‘Why, did you not have any dinner?’ he was asked. -‘I did not eat any.’ ‘Why not?’ ‘I did not want it.’ ‘Why not?’ was -again asked, curiosity becoming excited. At last the little fellow, so -closely questioned, cried out in despair, in his broken English, -‘Because Auntie had “swill” for dinner.’ Upon investigation it was -ascertained that the dinner was the old-fashioned, substantial one of -corned beef and its satellites of various vegetables served at the same -time. The boy, the day before, had been reading a story about pigs, in -which the word ‘swill’ was used. He asked his teacher what that word -meant,--an inelegant one at best,--and she told him, a little hastily -perhaps, that it meant bits of meat, potato, turnip, or other particles -of food all thrown together; and he thought, in his day’s visit, that he -had an ocular and tangible demonstration of the definition. - -_The Hague, Wednesday, August 8th._--The memorables of to-day: First, -the Royal Picture Gallery, where are many costly and valuable treasures. -I have anticipated much pleasure in seeing the collection here, knowing -well of many of the paintings, and I have not been disappointed. -Rembrandt’s ‘Lecture on Anatomy,’ known of the world over, is a -wonderful study, and a grand representation of death and life on canvas. -The old learned doctor Nicholas Tulp, with a dead body before him, is -explaining to seven other surgeons the dissecting of the subject. These -faces are all real portraits of physicians, and the expressions of -interest and attention given in them to the lecturer’s words and -movements are grandly and wonderfully portrayed. Nor is there the -slightest thing repulsive in the picture; on the contrary, it has the -effect of making one desirous of sitting down to listen to the lesson -also. Here too is Rembrandt’s ‘Presentation,’ a perfect gem: Joseph and -Mary are presenting the ‘Holy Child’ for a blessing. Paul Potter’s -famous ‘Bull’ is here, which Napoleon once stole and took to Paris, and -it was then rated as the fourth picture in the Louvre, but after -Napoleon’s star of power had set the Dutch reclaimed it. This picture -represents a bull, looking as if really alive, standing under the -branches of a tree; a cow, and a lamb with its parents, are also near by -resting, and a pleasant-faced old farmer, standing with his arm on the -trunk of the tree, is looking on well satisfied. These figures are life -size, and are full of vigor. Although the collection here does not -please me as much as the one in Amsterdam, it contains many gems of the -Dutch and Flemish schools. Here are Berghems, Van Der Helsts, and -Ruysdaels--mellow landscapes and restful pastoral scenes, helpful to -look upon. But oh, I wish you could see all the grand paintings that are -in this country! It pains me, dear mother, to enjoy so much and you not -with me; but we shall not forget all we see, and will tell you more -about it sometime. - -Storks are kept in the city at the public expense, as they are the arms -of The Hague, the same as bears are of the city of Berne. And now, -good-by to this aristocratic town, and on to Rotterdam, our last Holland -city. - -Rotterdam is something like Amsterdam, although not nearly as -attractive, nor anywhere nearly as clean. It is a large place, and its -shipping interests considerable; its canals and wharves are crowded. -Here, as in Amsterdam, the houses are, many of them, built on piles, and -the land is kept land by keeping the water in the canals, locks, and -basins. It requires much money, good systems, and much energy to do -this, but the Dutch have proved themselves equal to it. We hear here -such names as the ‘Hoogstraat’ (one of the streets), the ‘Schiedamsche -dyke,’ etc., regular jaw-breakers. In fact, I think if Americans can -understand or be understood in Holland, they need have no fears of not -being able to travel in other parts of the globe, so far as ‘language’ -is concerned. - -We took a drive through the new portion of the city, where are many -elegant residences. We went into two churches; saw a fine statue of -Erasmus the scholar, also one of Spinoza. We then went into many of the -old, crooked, narrow streets of the older part of the city, called -Binnenstad, and here everything looked very ‘Dutch’ like; and it is the -queer aspect of these foreign cities that I particularly enjoy,--the -markets on market-day especially. The peasants at their stalls, in the -funny gowns and funnier head-dresses, are perfectly fascinating. We -bought delicious cherries and strawberries of them to-day. Some of the -women had caps on that had long capes, others with caps close to the -head, and others with inside frills, but one and all had the gold, gilt, -or silver band across the forehead, and the wire rosettes and pendants -at the temples. - -We talked up our little stock of Dutch history here, remembering that it -was in this town that the Puritans of England, when persecuted, fled for -refuge; and here ‘John Robinson [one of our own ancestors] fired them -with longings for liberty, and they set sail to go across two seas to -find a new home where they would have freedom to worship God.’ What an -amount of studying we will do next winter, and Motley’s ‘Rise of the -Dutch Republic’ we are looking forward to reading with much pleasure. - -Our admiration of the Dutch, always great, is much increased by this -trip through their country. When one sees the obstacles they had to -contend against in making their land habitable--old ocean itself for -one,--and the victory they have achieved, it seems more wonderful even -than their conquering the tyranny of Spain. They are an industrious, -persevering, and honest people. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - -HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, -ANTWERP, BELGIUM, _August 9, 1888_. - -WE reached here last night in time to take a look at this old city and -to hear the ringing of ‘bells, bells, bells.’ We thought at first they -were ringing on account of our arrival, or for some other unusual -occasion, but find we were mistaken. The bells of Antwerp are ringing -always. We find at our hotel the M.’s, our pleasant Chamouni friends, -and it was a pleasant surprise indeed to have them meet and greet us; -also Rev. Mr. G., of Boston. - -Immediately after breakfast this morning we started for Brussels. We -made every effort to have an early breakfast and have it quickly -served, but the people of this land never hurry; they do not know the -meaning of the word. At eight A.M. we were seated at our table in the -dining-room ready to eat, and had ordered our breakfast prepared one -hour before, but there was nothing ready for us. ‘Will you hurry up our -breakfast?’ said E. to our sleepy-looking waiter. Slowly he answered, -‘It is cooking,’ in his own lingo. Ten minutes go by. Another nod to the -stolid waiter; and in tones of entreaty, accompanied with a piece of -money, E. said, ‘Will you not bring us something to eat?’ The man, still -standing as stiff as a post, replied, ‘It is coming.’ ‘But we leave at -eleven o’clock,’ said E. in the man’s own language. But the stupid -Belgian did not see the joke, and did not relax a muscle. - -We have had a delightful day in Brussels, and modern Brussels is a -beautiful city and in many ways much like Paris. It has broad, handsome -streets and boulevards, beautiful parks, squares and gardens, with many -rich statues, monuments, artificial lakes and fountains. The city is -built on and up and down a hill--the new and elegant part of Brussels -on top, and the old and poorer part at the foot. The royal family of -Belgium live here, and have several handsome palaces. The Capitol is a -magnificent structure, and there are many noted churches; we went into -several of them, but of all these things I shall not now tell you very -much. - -Service is always going on in some one part of these European -cathedrals. In one that we stepped into to-day they were celebrating -funeral rites, and before us were placed some painful paintings of -Christ, showing his bleeding wounds. The Cathedral of St. Gudule is the -largest and finest, and contains a great numbex of perfectly magnificent -tapestries. - -We went into the largest art gallery in the city, where are many choice -works, and we greatly enjoyed them; but here too are more of Rubens’ -plump angels, of anything but angelic proportions, and I am sure if our -Sunday-school children at home should see some of them they would never -sing, ‘I want to be an angel,’ any more. Here are more of Tennier’s -beautiful productions, and fine pictures by Vander Weyden, Rhemi, Vander -Meulen, and other noted Flemish artists, and the collections give good -opportunities for studying the Flemish schools. - -But the laces! These laces are the most tempting of all things. We go -into houses that on the outside look like private homes, and are -politely asked to be seated at tables, when the women in attendance take -from boxes and drawers their stores of rich fabrics and spread them out -for our eyes to feast upon: flounces, handkerchiefs, fichus, capes, -collars, all of the finest make and of most exquisite designs. In the -Royal Lace Manufactory we saw the bridal trousseau of some noble lady, -so called, which was just completed, and the dress, made entirely of the -finest duchesse lace, was a marvel of loveliness. We were taken into the -rooms where the women were making the ‘dentelles,’ and after seeing -their methods we shall never again wonder that duchesse and point laces -are such costly fabrics. Nearly all the most valuable laces of the world -are made here, and many women spend their entire lives in making a piece -of lace to ornament some other woman made of the same perishable dust -as themselves and of whom they are the equals. Ah me! We spent a short -time in the Belgium Exposition, now open, and never before did I see in -any one collection such a wilderness of rich, beautiful objects. A drive -about the charming city, a short stop in the Botanical Gardens, and we -are soon on the road back to Antwerp, with mingled thoughts of the -paintings, gems, and laces back of us, and of Bonaparte and Waterloo, -and the historic ground we are travelling over. We will save more time, -and more money too, for Brussels in our next trip. - -_Antwerp, Friday, August 10th._--This has been a rainy day, but we ought -not to complain, for we have had but few of them. We have been out all -the day, and have seen this old city pretty thoroughly, although many -parts of it now have a modern look. Yet numerous old historic landmarks -remain. I hope you will not get weary of hearing about art and artists, -for we are in the land of Rubens and in the very cradle of art here. We -saw to-day the house Rubens lived and died in. He is buried in the -church of St. Jacques, as are also his two wives. In this church is the -picture of his ‘Virgin and Child,’ with several other figures on the -canvas, all said to be likenesses of members of his family. In the -museum are many works of all the noted old masters of the Dutch and -Flemish school--for Antwerp gave birth to a long list of them--and here -their works are treasured. Here is the noted ‘Le Christ à la -Paille’--Christ dead, lying on a stone strewed with straw; and here too -is Vandyk’s ‘Saviour on the Cross,’ which tells the whole sublime story. -Of the more modern pictures, Lady Godiva is worthy of mention. The flesh -tints are exquisite. She is represented as just letting drop a curtain, -which is of a bright, warm color, and her attitude is so graceful that -one looks at her again and again. Of the many exquisite paintings we -have seen here, I will tell you when I see you, which will not be long -now, God willing. - -At noon it held up a little, so we took a drive about the town. Antwerp -is the stronghold of Belgium, and there are immense fortifications about -the city. The town has known great vicissitudes, and in old times -terrible religious persecutions, but it is now in a most prosperous -condition, and trades with all the large mercantile cities of the world, -as the piles of all kinds of merchandise we saw at the wharves proved to -us. The beautiful double-width black silks are manufactured here, and -can be purchased at low prices. The shops are fine, and present a -tempting display of articles. - -I must tell you of a laughable incident that occurred to-day. E. and F. -were walking in front of me, I lingering to look in the store windows, -and carrying not only my own wrap, but one for F. also, over my arm. Two -fine-looking ladies paused to look at us, for you must remember we are -known as foreigners everywhere. One turned to the other and said, ‘Look, -two foreign travellers and the lady’s-maid!’ I carry no more wraps! - -Now, of only one more joy shall I tell you. The cathedral and its -contents! We had looked again and again at its tall, graceful, delicate -spire, rising high above the houses, and we had heard its sweet, soft -bells before going in. But now we have seen its inside walls and the -glories they hold. The interior of the edifice is comparatively cold and -barren, but the paintings within are delightful and surprise enough for -a life-time. I forgive Rubens for his unangel-like angels, that I have -not liked, for these wonderful works here of his surpass anything on -canvas I have ever seen. I was expecting to behold something unusual in -‘The Descent from the Cross,’ but not prepared for anything so -miraculously beautiful and sublime. I could not tell to mortal my -sensations upon first beholding this painting. I wonder now if it was a -painting! There was Christ dead! His beautiful, pathetic face looked as -if he had suffered, but it is now full of spiritualized peace and rest. -Mary’s sorrowful face, at his feet, is wet with her falling tears. The -loving and beloved John is near, and Magdalen extends her arms to take -the body of her dead Master. These faces are all exquisite, sadly so, -and yet one seems to see in them an expression of trustfulness, a -spiritual hope, as if they saw something beyond the unspeakable sadness -of the hour. The figure of our Saviour is touchingly real. The drooping -of the precious head--the muscles relaxed--it is all Death; and never, -before or since has the great, sad tragedy been so sublimely told. The -colors are wonderful--rich, mellow, and harmonious; and we leave the -cathedral with tears in our eyes, thinking only of Christ crucified, and -for us. - -_Antwerp, August 11th._--My dear ----: My last words to you from a -foreign land! We are shopping, packing, speaking our adieux, for to-day -at three P.M. the Nordland sails, and we turn our faces toward our -native land. We are glad to go, and we are sorry to leave. - - - - -[Illustration: decorative bar] - - - - -LETTER XV. - - -ON SHIPBOARD. - -Our first hours on board were busy ones, making our state-room seem -home-like, decorating it with little souvenirs, and disposing boxes and -bundles in out-of-the-way corners. Placing in vases lovely flowers, -which friendly hands had placed in ours, with best wishes for a ‘Bon -voyage.’ As glimpses of the chalk-cliffs of England could be caught in -the distance, we turned our faces toward that shore, with loving -thoughts of one dear to us, whom we leave on British soil. ‘We were -a-hungered, and he gave us meat; strangers, and he took us in,’ and God -cares for such, and He will protect. - -After a good night’s rest, for the next few days out it seemed enough -for us to sit silent, as silent as women can be, and think. Think of all -the wonderful sights we had seen, and carefully store them away in -memory’s niche for future enjoyment. Think, too, of home and the loved -ones there, and bless the steamer’s big wheel, whose every turn carried -us nearer to them. - -Amongst our pleasant fellow-voyagers we have Rev. Mr. G----r, of the -‘Old South;’ who is, if not all Boston, a valued bit of it. Prof. -Berlitz is also one of us, and adds to his many accomplishments a -knowledge of ‘mal de mer’ in all languages. - -We have had head winds, and much stormy weather, but we are glad to have -a chance given us to see old ocean in all her varied moods, and can -scarcely say in which we like her best. - -_New York, America, August 24th, 1888._--On land again! Our good steamer -brought us safely over. ‘Slow, but sure’ was her motto. - -Our sailing into New York harbor at just sunset, with the gorgeous -colors of the western sky, and the purest blue above our heads, was to -us a pretty welcome; and, with hearts full of gratitude, we joined -voices in singing-- - - ‘My country! ’tis of thee, - Sweet land of liberty.’ - -In a few hours more we shall be steaming toward the dear old -‘hub’--Boston--home; and shall soon be with you, dear mother, my queen -of queens. But our pleasure in anticipation is not entirely painless, -for here we part with one of our trio, whose kindly care of us, for the -last few months, has added greatly to our happiness. - -_Boston, August 27th._--Europe, in many ways, is delightful, and the -memories of our perfect trip will certainly be a joy to us forever; but -we wonder that any American can choose expatriation, for we return from -all the fascinations of the ‘other side’--certainly enjoyed and seen at -their best--thanking God that we are free American citizens. Some one -has said that ‘different descriptions of the same countries are ever -like old coats turned.’ And George Macdonald writes, ‘Fact, at best, is -but a garment of truth, which has ten thousand changes of raiment, -woven in the same loom.’ Many a made-over article gives enjoyment and -satisfaction. If my words give these to my readers I am satisfied. - - -FINIS. - -[Illustration: - -_Extracts from -J. G. Cupples Co.’s -List_ - -_Boston, Mass._ -] - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -RECENT PUBLICATIONS OF - -J. G. CUPPLES CO., - -PUBLISHERS, GENERAL BOOKSELLERS, PRINTERS, AND STATIONERS, _94 Boylston -Street, Boston, Mass._ - -⁂ NOTE.--_In order to insure the correct delivery of the actual works, -or particular Editions specified in this List, the name of the -Publishers should be distinctly given. These books can be had from any -local bookseller; but should any difficulty be experienced in procuring -them, Messrs. J. G. CUPPLES CO. will be happy to forward them direct, -postage paid, on receipt of cheque, stamps, or postal order for the -amount._ - - -_TWO VOLUMES OF TRAVEL._ - - GLIMPSES OF NORSELAND. BY HETTA M. HERVEY. With many illustrations - of exceptional value. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, gilt top. $1.25. - -A breezy book about Norway, its people and its places, its fjords and -fjelds. A critical notice says:--“The book is not pretentious. Miss -Hervey has sought to tell in a direct, simple way the story of her -wanderings in Norway, and to describe some of the strange sights of that -romantic land. But she has avoided dulness, the bane of thousands of -books of travel, while many of the passages are strikingly well -done.”--Again, “She has recorded her experiences in exactly the manner -which makes her book pleasurable and fascinating reading.” - - - TEN DAYS IN THE JUNGLE. A journey in the far East by an American - lady. By J. E. L. With vignette. 1 vol. 16mo. Cloth. $1.00. - -An interesting and entertaining description of travel through the -Straits of Malacca, with pictures of life and scenery in the adjacent -British Colonies of Singapore and Pulo-Penang. - - -_BY JAMES H. STARK._ - - ANTIQUE VIEWS OF YE TOWNE OF BOSTON. By JAMES H. STARK. Assisted by - Dr. SAMUEL A. GREEN, Ex-Mayor of Boston, Librarian of the - Massachusetts Historical Society; JOHN WARD DEAN, Librarian of the - New England Historic Genealogical Society; and Judge MELLEN - CHAMBERLAIN, of the Public Library. _An extensive and exhaustive - work in 378 pages. Large quarto. Illustrated with nearly 200 full - size reproductions of all known rare maps, old prints, etc. 1 vol. - 4to. Cloth. $6.00._ - - - BERMUDA GUIDE. A description of everything on or about the Bermuda - Islands, concerning which the visitor or resident may desire - information, including its history, inhabitants, climate, - agriculture, geology, government, military and naval - establishments. By JAMES H. STARK. With Maps, Engravings and 16 - Photo-prints. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, 157 pp. $2.00. - -_J G. Cupples Co._ - -_Publishers -Booksellers, -Stationers_, - -_BOSTON_. - - * * * * * - -_Important New Books._ - - -“_I consider James R. Nichols, the well-known chemist, one of the -coolest and most scientific investigators in the field of psychical -phenomena, and, at the same time, one of the most honest. If the world -had more earnest thinkers of the same kind to co-operate with him, the -world would find out something of value._”--_Joseph Cook._ - - -WORKS BY THE LATE DR. JAMES R. NICHOLS. - - WHENCE? WHAT? WHERE? A VIEW OF THE ORIGIN, NATURE, AND DESTINY OF - MAN. By JAMES R. NICHOLS. With portrait of the author. 12mo. Cloth, - gilt top. $1.25. _Eleventh edition, revised._ - -“_No one can take up the book without feeling the inclination to read -further, and to ponder on the all-important subjects which it presents. -Though it is not a religious book in the accepted sense of the word, it -is a book which calls for the exercise of the religious nature, and -which in diffusing many sensible ideas will do good._”--_Philadelphia -Press._ - - -FIRESIDE SCIENCE: Popular Scientific Essays. 12mo. Cloth. $1.50. - -These essays have been an endless source of instruction and interest to -all that have read them, while, to those who approach the mysteries of -Nature with an inquiring and reverent spirit, they will be of great -assistance in aiding the comprehension of the technical works on -chemistry and physics. Since Faraday delivered his well-known lectures, -there has been nothing to compare with the present work in tracing the -action of the immutable laws of Nature in processes of every-day -occurrence. - - - CHEMISTRY OF THE FARM AND THE SEA, with many other familiar - Chemical Essays. 16mo. Cloth. $1.25. - -This work, though perhaps not of so wide an interest to the average -reader, is of the greatest value to the thoughtful and practical farmer. -Not the least of Dr. Nichols’ talents was his deep insight into and -wonderful grasp of agricultural chemistry, and many men to-day can bear -witness to the value of his advice respecting soils and fertilizers. In -this volume will be found the gist of a series of lectures and addresses -delivered before the various agricultural communities of New England and -elsewhere, which abound with helpful suggestions and solid facts. - - - THE POPULAR SCIENCE NEWS. AUSTIN P. NICHOLS, Editor; W. J. ROLFE, - Associate Editor. Formerly Boston Journal of Chemistry. Founded by - the late James R. Nichols, M.D., in 1868, is issued monthly, and is - designed to be a journal of Useful Knowledge for all classes of - readers. - -It is now in its Twenty-third year, and has become the most popular -scientific journal published in the world. - -TERMS.--One Dollar per year, in advance. Subscriptions may begin at any -time. Back numbers supplied when desired. - -Make all drafts, money orders, etc., for this paper, payable to the -POPULAR SCIENCE NEWS CO., Boston, Mass. - - * * * * * - -_Important New Book._ - - -HIERO-SALEM: - -THE VISION OF PEACE. - -A FICTION FOUNDED ON IDEALS WHICH ARE GROUNDED IN - -THE REAL, - -THAT IS GREATER THAN THE GREATEST OF ALL HUMAN GREAT IDEALS. - -By E. L. Mason. - -_Symbolically Illustrated._ - -[Illustration] - -The publishers feel pride in announcing the appearance of what they -believe to be a very remarkable production in the department of Didactic -Fiction. It is entitled “HIERO-SALEM: THE VISION OF PEACE,” by E. L. -Mason, and is unquestionably a work of a very high, if not indeed of the -first, order. Whatever may be thought of its theories,--and its theories -will attract, even where they fail to convince, readers,--there can be -no question of its great power. It goes to the bottom of things, and -stirs its readers’ consciousness to its lowest depths, as Hugo, and -Sand, and Balzac, and Heine, and Richter, and all the great masters of -the human heart, do. Striking philosophical and psychological insight, -marked originality, and intense vigor of attack, are among its -characteristics. Those who remember George Sand’s Count Albert will find -in Daniel, especially in the first half of the work, something akin to -that marvellous creation of abstract wisdom and ideal beauty. The -general plan, too, of the book, consisting as it does of a succession of -apparently somewhat unrelated episodes, which, however, at the end are -brought together, explained, and wrought into a consistent and -symmetrical whole, may not impossibly recall _Consuelo_. _Charles -Auchester_, doubtless, will occur to the minds of many, as, we should -say, if the reference had not become hackneyed, will _Robert Elsmere_, -with which it has much in common. Still, possessing qualities resembling -those of the above-named works though it does, as a whole “Hiero-salem” -is totally unlike them, and indeed distinct from every other work with -which we are acquainted. It is, we think, _sui generis_ in Fiction. -Containing passages of great poetic beauty, and of the most intense and -sustained passion; bristling with appropriatenesses and happy audacities -of expression, that are likely to be welcomed into the common fund of -speech; abounding in queer turns and startling surprises of incident and -of thought,--it takes the interest captive, and hurries it, breathless, -and sometimes even almost bewildered, on. The publishers feel themselves -unable to hazard any conjecture with regard to the _popularity_ of this -book. To persons of cultivation, experience and thoughtfulness, whenever -it reaches such, they feel sure it will speak; and their number is not -inconsiderable. They await the verdict of critical and competent society -with confidence, and will not be surprised if it settle down to the -conviction that, on the whole, here again is nothing more or less than a -_great work_, worthy to stand and live beside the abiding literary -masterpieces. - -The author, evidently an earnest believer in the immortality of the -spiritual ego, treats in this work of the endeavor made by a man deeply -versed in all lore that deals with the universality of the immaterial -world, and the possibility in this life of the partial removal of the -sensual barriers which separate us from it, to raise the standard of -physical and intellectual man by the establishment of a new race founded -at the outset by careful selection of two individuals. Many subjects of -much interest to many thinkers now, are introduced as an integral part -of the narrative,--the doctrine of reincarnation, the beliefs of -Esoteric Buddhism, even the occult knowledge acquired by the Kabbalists. -The idea, however, that shines through all is that behind these mere -glimmerings of light there is the splendor of the truth itself, of which -these are but the reflections vouchsafed to the earnest studies and -strivings of man--a deeper truth which this book endeavors to express. - -“Hiero-salem” will be found to be unique in manufacture as well as in -contents, and is symbolically illustrated. - -_1 vol. Illustrated, large square 12mo. Unique cloth binding, gilt top, -bevelled boards, 528 pages. Price $2.00._ - -⁂ Mailed postage paid to any address, by the publishers, on receipt of -the price. - - * * * * * - -_Important New Books._ - -AUNT NABBY: HER RAMBLES, -HER ADVENTURES, AND -HER NOTIONS. - -With characteristic illustrations and vignettes. 12mo. pp. 314, xii. - -Paper, 50 cents. Cloth, $1.00. - -“Delightful drollery.”--_Pilot._ - -“Highly amusing.”--_Boston Herald._ - -[Illustration] - -☛ _SECOND EDITION, ENLARGED AND IMPROVED._ - - * * * * * - -_BRIGHT ORIGINALITY, SPRIGHTLINESS, AND KEEN OBSERVATION._ - -=A BUNDLE OF LETTERS FROM OVER THE SEA.= - -BY LOUISE B. ROBINSON. - -12mo. pp. 320. Cloth, elegant, $2.00. - -“The authoress of A BUNDLE OF LETTERS FROM OVER THE SEA has produced a -book _unlike any other_. It is original, bright, entertaining, and shows -what an open-eyed, independent American woman can see.”--_Press._ - - -“Good as it is to inherit a library, it is better to collect one. Each -volume then, however lightly a stranger’s eye may roam from shelf to -shelf, has its own individuality, a history of its own. You remember -where you got it, and how much you gave for it.... The man who has a -library of his own collection is able to contemplate himself -objectively, and is justified in believing in his own existence. No -other man but he would have made precisely such a combination as his. -Had he been in any single respect different from what he is, his -library, as it exists, never would have existed. Therefore, surely he -may exclaim, as in the gloaming he contemplates the backs of his loved -ones, ‘They are mine, and I am theirs.’” - -_Obiter Dicta._ - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea, by -Louise B. 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Robinson. -</title> -<style type="text/css"> - p {margin-top:.2em;text-align:justify;margin-bottom:.2em;text-indent:4%;} - -.c {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.cb {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;font-weight:bold;} - -.eng {font-family: "Old English Text MT",fantasy,sans-serif;font-weight:bold;} - -.sans {font-family:sans-serif,serif;} - -.hang {text-indent:-2%;margin-left:2%;} - -.lftspc {margin-left:.25em;} - -.nind {text-indent:0%;} - -.r {text-align:right;margin-right: 5%;} - -.rt {text-align:right;} - -small {font-size: 70%;} - -big {font-size: 130%;} - - h1 {margin-top:5%;text-align:center;clear:both;} - - h2 {margin-top:4%;margin-bottom:2%;text-align:center;clear:both; - font-size:120%;} - - hr {width:100%;margin:.2em auto .2em auto;clear:both;color:black;} - - hr.full {width: 60%;margin:2% auto 2% auto;border-top:1px solid black; -padding:.1em;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:none;border-right:none;} - - table {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;border:none;} - -td.indd {padding-left:1em;} - - body{margin-left:4%;margin-right:6%;background:#ffffff;color:black;font-family:"Times New Roman", serif;font-size:medium;} - -a:link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - - link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - -a:visited {background-color:#ffffff;color:purple;text-decoration:none;} - -a:hover {background-color:#ffffff;color:#FF0000;text-decoration:underline;} - -.smcap {font-variant:small-caps;font-size:100%;} - - img {border:none;} - -.blockquot {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;font-size: 85%;} - -.figcenter {margin-top:3%;margin-bottom:3%;clear:both; -margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - @media print, handheld - {.figcenter - {page-break-before: avoid;page-break-after: avoid;} - } - -.figleft {float:left;clear:left;margin-left:0;margin-bottom:1em;margin-top:1em;margin-right:1em;padding:0;text-align:center;} - -div.poetry {text-align:center;} -div.poem {font-size:90%;margin:auto auto;text-indent:0%; -display: inline-block; text-align: left;} -.poem .stanza {margin-top: 1em;margin-bottom:1em;} -.poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i1 {display: block; margin-left: .45em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i3 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i5 {display: block; margin-left: 3em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i7 {display: block; margin-left: 4em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -.pagenum {font-style:normal;position:absolute; -left:95%;font-size:55%;text-align:right;color:gray; -background-color:#ffffff;font-variant:normal;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;text-indent:0em;} -@media print, handheld -{.pagenum - {display: none;} - } -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea, by -Louise B. Robinson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea - -Author: Louise B. Robinson - -Release Date: February 2, 2017 [EBook #54092] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BUNDLE OF LETTERS *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Adrian Mastronardi, The Philatelic -Digital Library Project at http://www.tpdlp.net and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<p class="c"> -A BUNDLE OF LETTERS<br /> -FROM OVER THE SEA. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii"></a>{ii}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus_002.png" width="120" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<p class="c"><i>This book may be obtained through any bookseller in<br /> the United States, -for two dollars, or will be<br /> mailed, postage paid, on receipt of that<br /> -amount by the publishers.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii"></a>{iii}</span></p> -<h1> -A BUNDLE OF LETTERS<br /> -<br /> -FROM OVER THE SEA</h1> -<p class="c"> -BY<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Louise B. Robinson</span></p> -<div class="poetry"><div class="poem"> -<div class="stanza"> -<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">————</span><br /> -“Visions of the days departed<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 0.45em;">Shadowy phantoms fill my brain”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">————</span><br /> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="c">BOSTON<br /> -J. G. CUPPLES COMPANY<br /> -<span class="eng">The Back Bay Bookstore</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">94 Boylston Street</span><br /> -1890<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv"></a>{iv}</span><br /> -<br /><br /><br /> -<i>COPYRIGHT</i>, 1889,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By</span> LOUISE B. ROBINSON.<br /> -———<br /> -<i>All rights reserved.</i><br /> -<br /><br /> -<small><span class="eng">Cupples Press: Boston.</span><br /> - -PRINTED BY J. G. CUPPLES COMPANY.</small><br /> <br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v"></a>{v}</span></p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus_005.png" width="150" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Dedicated by the Author</span><br /> -<span class="eng">To Her Mother</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii"></a>{vii}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi"></a>{vi}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td><td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PREFACE">Preface</a></span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_ix">ix</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_I"><span class="smcap">Letter I.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">I am off. On the sea.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_II"><span class="smcap">Letter II.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_13">13</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Liverpool. Chester. Rugby. Leamington. -Stratford-on-Avon. Kenilworth. Warwick.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_III"><span class="smcap">Letter III.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_29">29</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">London.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Letter IV.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_67">67</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Paris.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_V"><span class="smcap">Letter V.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_127">127</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Ambrieau. Geneva.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_VI"><span class="smcap">Letter VI.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_143">143</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Chamouni. Mer de Glace. Tête Noire.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_VII"><span class="smcap">Letter VII.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Martigny. Chillon. Berne. Interlaken.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">Letter VIII.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_171">171</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Lucerne. Altorf. The Rigi. Zurich. Schaffhausen.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii"></a>{viii}</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Letter IX.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_191">191</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Strassburg. Baden Baden. Willbad. Carlsruhe. -Heidelberg.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_X"><span class="smcap">Letter X.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_217">217</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Mayence. Wiesbaden. The Rhine.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Letter XI.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Cologne.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Letter XII.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Utrecht. Amsterdam.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">Letter XIII.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">The Hague. Rotterdam. Brussels.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">Letter XIV.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">Antwerp.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#LETTER_XV"><span class="smcap">Letter XV.</span></a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_291">291</a></td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td class="indd">On Shipboard. New York. Boston.</td></tr> - -</table> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a>{ix}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> -<p><i>In presenting my little book to the public, I feel that I should -apologize for so doing, instead of introducing it; for at the time my -letters were written I had no idea of publishing them. Since my return, -however, several friends who had read them have assured me that they -greatly enjoyed them, and felt that others would do so, also, had they -the opportunity. The letters have, at least, the merit of being fresh -and honest impressions of the places described, as they were written on -the spots. Remembering how eagerly I have always read letters of travel, -I sincerely hope<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x"></a>{x}</span> that mine may prove a source of pleasure to some—to -those who have been over the same ground, and to many who have the -pleasure in anticipation. I am aware that the route I describe is a -well-worn thoroughfare, but every eye has its own perspective, and -different views of the same pictures assist the sight-seer in -comprehending the whole. Therefore, I here beg the charity of all into -whose hands this little book may fall.</i></p> - -<p class="r"> -<i>L. B. R.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p class="hang"> -<i>Hotel Oxford, Boston,<br /> -December 20, 1889.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1"></a>{1}</span></p> - -<h1><img src="images/illus_011.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/><br /> -A BUNDLE OF LETTERS<br /> -<small>FROM OVER THE SEA.</small></h1> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_I" id="LETTER_I"></a>LETTER I.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Cunard Royal Mail Steamship</span> <i>Etruria</i>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Mid-Ocean</span>, <i>June 12</i>.<br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">Well</span>, was not this starting for Europe in a hurry? I left Boston -Saturday, June 9th, at five <small>A.M.</small>, only deciding the day previous to go. -A number of letters and telegrams, from New York, urging me to join a -delightful party who were to make the journey, proved to be too much of -a temptation to accept the change I so much needed, to resist. For -several previous seasons I have seen friends off,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2"></a>{2}</span> honestly glad to have -them enjoy so much, but after awhile enthusiasm in the pleasures of -others, who enjoy much and leave you behind to be glad for them, grows -dull, like champagne long uncorked, not much sparkle to it, ‘for all -work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.’ A hurried packing; good-by -letters; messenger boys running here and there; a turning of the keys; -and I am off. To my maid, to the elevator boy, to the expressman and the -coachman, I excitedly said, ‘I am going to Europe,’ but their faces did -not light up with delight as I expected they would; and I thought—How -unappreciative we all are, after all, of other people’s enthusiasm. The -train was a slow one, but the only one that could possibly get me to New -York in time to take the steamer. Some trouble with the machinery of the -engine detained us, and I spent the time, while the cars were stopped, -praying to be resigned, if I had got to be disappointed, as, for a -while, matters looked as if it would be impossible for me to reach my -friends on the hour for the ship to sail. But prayers and the work of an -ingenious Yankee<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3"></a>{3}</span> mechanic carried us through. It was after 3 <small>P.M.</small> when -we rolled into the Grand Central Depot. I rushed into the nearest cab -like one mad—urged, coaxed, and fee’d my driver, who quickly -comprehended the situation and ran his horses to the best of their -speed, and did get me to the Cunard Wharf about ten minutes before the -Etruria moved; but it was in truth a ‘John Gilpin ride.’ My friends were -on the lookout with anxious eyes, and, when they caught a sight of me, -greeted my appearance with shouts of delight. After the excitement was -over, we settled down into an ‘all right’ atmosphere and looked about. -The sights that met my eyes I shall never forget. The huge ship with the -bright-colored flags flying, the hundreds of people crowded on her, -hundreds more on the wharf, throwing kisses, waving handkerchiefs and -adieus, everybody loaded with flowers, many laughing and more crying. -‘God bless you. Take care of yourselves. Write soon and often,’ were the -oft-repeated words we heard. The planks are drawn, the band struck up -‘The Girl I left behind me,’ and off we steamed down the beautiful -harbor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4"></a>{4}</span> of New York, fast leaving the shores of America in the distance. -I thought of all the loved friends we were sailing away from, in the -body but not in spirit, and asked our dear ‘Father in Heaven’ to take -care of us all. I was tired, so dined early, settled things a little in -our state-room, and retired. I went immediately to sleep, without a -care, like a weary, confiding child on its mother’s breast, and did not -once awaken until nine the next morning—Sunday. My rest was perfect, -thus ‘rocked in the cradle of the deep,’ while the waves sung to me -their sweet lullaby. I arose feeling thoroughly refreshed—rubbed my -eyes well to be convinced that I was not dreaming, and that in reality I -was far out at sea. We have a fine state-room; two wide berths and a -sofa; and only F. and I its occupants; plenty of room for our things, -and two looking-glasses; so we shall be sure to keep amiable on this -trip. The Etruria is a beautiful and an immense steamer. Four hundred -persons make up the crew and she takes fifty engineers. We have a music -room, a library, a large saloon, reception rooms, dining room,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5"></a>{5}</span> etc., -all finely and conveniently furnished and spacious. We have six hundred -passengers on board, all first class, and a fairly good-looking crowd -notwithstanding there are but few from Boston. We take no second class -passengers or emigrants. So far the weather has been charming. We settle -ourselves in our steamer chairs in the most deliciously idle and -comfortable positions, E. tucks his numerous nice wraps about us, for -the air is keen but most wholesomely pure and sweet, and we give -ourselves up both body and mind to perfect rest and repose, such as no -condition on land can bring. I even find myself wishing that the steamer -would not speed on quite so rapidly. I am afraid we shall sight land too -soon. On shipboard, the slightest incident becomes to all a matter of -great interest. A ship in the distance, or a whale’s back, will cause as -much excitement as Barnum’s circus in a country town. We have seen two -steamers far away, many sea-gulls and Mother Cary’s chickens, and a -school of porpoises followed us a long distance, creating much -amusement. We have two dukes on board, a real lord and a lady, but they -look<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6"></a>{6}</span> very like the rest of us mortals, and seem to do quite as much -stretching, yawning, walking, and eating. We have met here several old -friends, and have made some new ones. Everybody seems inclined to be -agreeable and social. I cannot imagine how any one could ever think a -sea voyage dull. I get so interested in all about me, that their -interests and purposes become my own. A bright little Cuban miss -confided to me that she was going to travel for a year, because her rich -father had taken to himself a new companion younger than herself, and -she could not stay at home and see the young girl in her mother’s place. -We have six school-girls on board with their chaperone, and a jolly good -time they are having. School-girls are the same everywhere. A bride and -groom sit at table near us, trying to act as if they had been always -married, but are really continually revealing their new condition. Ah! -‘the old, old story,’ but ever new. A gentleman from the West, who had -been cabled to ‘hurry over—wife sick,’ walks the deck with a face that -tells of the sad heart he carries. How we all sympathize with him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7"></a>{7}</span> and -yet are so helpless in comforting him! We had a fine concert in the -grand saloon last evening, for ‘sweet charity;’ and many of the ladies -honored the occasion by changing their travelling dresses for evening -costumes. Mlle. Zelie de Lussan sang two pieces most charmingly, and on -encore gave us ‘Coming thro’ the Rye’ and ‘Dors mon ange.’ She is a -great favorite with all on board, and no wonder, for she endeavors in -her sweet way to add to the happiness of all. She was enthusiastically -applauded. We had some fine instrumental music on both violin and piano, -and ‘Tony’ Pastor was irresistible in his manner of rendering several -comic selections, and very kind to repeat them in acknowledgment of -hearty applause. Our young ladies passed around the hats, into which -coin was quickly deposited to the amount of over three hundred dollars. -Rev. Dr. H., of New York, made a few remarks. He is a forcible, -impressive speaker and with a physique equal to our own Trinity Rector. -He also has exhibited a commendable spirit in helping make the time pass -agreeably for all with whom he has come in contact. Editor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8"></a>{8}</span> P. is also -amongst us, leaving his ‘New York World’ behind for a time, but not -under a bushel. Our table and the service are excellent: and what -gormandizers we are to be sure! Hungry as sharks every meal, -notwithstanding the hourly extras of bouillon and crackers on deck, and -the daily treats from our own boxes of fruit, wine, and bon-bons. If any -one should now ask me ‘What is the chief end of man?’ I should honestly -answer, To eat of all, at least, on board our ship. Poor E. looks upon -his chest of medicines for sea-sickness as a lost investment; stocks way -down—not even a shadow of an excuse yet for opening it. Miss C., the -noted beauty, is on board, but her fair face is closely enveloped in -veils, that the sun and wind may not be too familiar. One loses much not -to take the whole of this blessed, invigorating air, and look out -unhampered on the exquisite sky and cloud effects above us, and the -artistic blending of blues and greens on the waves beneath.</p> - -<p><i>Liverpool, England, June 17, 1888.</i>—We first saw land yesterday -morning, very early. It was a perfect morning, clear and warm, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9"></a>{9}</span> when -we emerged from our state-room and made our way on deck, we found the -greater portion of our comrades ahead of us, with their glasses in hand, -peering toward the rocky coast of not far away ‘Old Ireland.’ It is a -rough, rugged shore, with here and there a lighthouse, built as if to -last for ages, on rocks, strong and high, and all colored white with -some black trimmings. Occasionally an old castle is seen. The fields of -flax, colored with all the shades of green, are very beautiful, and add -much to vary the scene.</p> - -<p>We have had, as one of our daily companions crossing over, an Irish -gentleman of much intelligence and culture. He is a large land-holder, -and has a fine home not very far from Dublin; has been travelling some -in America, but mostly in the Western States. I have gained much -information from him of his country and its people. He was amazed at the -extent of our own land, but with all his intelligence could not -comprehend everything connected with our divisions of country clearly, -and said to me—‘Boston, that city is very near Massachusetts, is it -not?’ He admired<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10"></a>{10}</span> American ladies, and thought ‘Mrs. Cleveland should -reign in Washington longer.’ His brogue was fascinating, and he talked -much of the Pot-o-mac River.</p> - -<p>In speaking of the poor of his country, I did not hesitate to ask him -how he and gentlemen of his kind could endure having the poor so -oppressed by the rich landlords; that to me it seemed most cruel. With a -sympathetic sigh he replied, ‘If you will visit me, I will show to you -more than I can tell you.’</p> - -<p>Our big steamer stopped, for the first time, for the passengers who were -booked for the ‘Green Isle’ to get on to the little tug which came -puffing down from Queenstown, and we said good-by to many of our -fellow-voyagers reluctantly. A large mail was thrown on board also for -Ireland, carrying undoubtedly happiness and help into many homes.</p> - -<p>On again we started, and reached Liverpool at one o’clock <small>A.M.</small> We -certainly had a perfect trip over, and the Etruria and her watchful, -careful commander, Captain Cook, will have ever a grateful place in my -memory. Blessed be the gift of memory! The one thing that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11"></a>{11}</span> holds -precious treasures that cannot be taken from us; from which we can at -all times summon the delights and joys of the past, without money and -without price.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12"></a>{12}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13"></a>{13}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_II" id="LETTER_II"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER II.</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> landed at seven <small>A.M.</small> Were detained but a short time at the -Custom-house. The ordeal of examining luggage there, proved much less -than we expected; one pleasant official, remarking that he did not wish -to disturb my nicely packed bags, would pass them over if I would swear -that I had no tobacco or cigars. Hasty good-bys, cards and kisses -exchanged, and we were soon whirled to our hotel—the Adelphi. What a -transition! We have nice rooms, and a pretty maid, with a demi-trained -white cambric dress on, to wait upon us, looking as fresh as a daisy. -After breakfast, we went to drive about the city, the largest seaport in -the world. The docks are many miles in length. We visited the museum, -St. George’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14"></a>{14}</span> Hall, and looked into one or two churches. The city looks -solid and business-like, but not attractive. The suburbs are more so, -and have fine trees. No more horse-cars for us, but trams, with seats on -top, which we very much like. After luncheon, we crossed the Mersey in a -ferry, to Birkenhead, and there took steam cars for Chester, thirty -miles away. Chester! old, odd, quaint, red-walled Chester! We hurried to -the Cathedral, to be in time for service, which proved to be a choral -one, of great beauty and sacredness, and the first words that greeted us -were sweetly sung, and impressed us in a stronger way than ever did the -same words before:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Jesus shall reign where’er the sun<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Doth his successive journeys run;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">His kingdom stretch from shore to shore,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Till moons shall wax and wane no more.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">Of this cathedral you have read many descriptions, and yet one can have -but little idea of it without seeing it. As I sat in the chancel, and -looked about me, I felt as if I belonged to the past. There seemed to be -a spirit of antique rest and repose pervading the whole interior.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15"></a>{15}</span> After -service, we peeped into the nooks and corners of the old church, and -then out into the rich balmy air of this perfect day in June, and walked -on the old wall which was built to protect the town. We looked from the -windows of the tower, where Charles I. stood and saw his army defeated -by Cromwell. How many reminiscences of our lessons in history at school -these old towns bring up! An open carriage stood near us, into which we -jumped, and were driven through the grounds and to the home of the Duke -of Westminster, who is, I believe, the richest man in England. As it was -Sunday, we could not be admitted to the palace, but enjoyed the drive -through the perfect grounds immensely. The town contains a beautiful -park, in which is a fine statue of the father of the present duke. The -narrow streets and the odd-looking old houses in the oldest part of the -town were intensely attractive to me, so, leaving the rest of my party -to wander in the park, I strolled off alone. I pulled the latch-string -of a little house, and a kindly faced old lady appeared. I asked for -some water, and she urged me to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16"></a>{16}</span> come in and rest, and I lingered a long -time, so interesting to me were her tales of Chester, where she had all -her life lived, not even having been so far away as ‘Lunnon town.’ The -custom of ringing what used to be the ‘curfew bell’ is still kept up. A -bell rings at nine <small>P.M.</small>, and if maids are out alone after that hour they -may be arrested. ‘A good custom it is,’ said the old lady; ‘God made the -night to sleep, and not for gadding.’ Back to Liverpool, and good-by to -E. He remains here, and we go to-morrow to Leamington Spa.</p> - -<p><i>June 18.</i>—At seven <small>A.M.</small> we left Liverpool. The morning was a perfect -one, and our train ran slowly, perhaps purposely that we might see -beautiful old England. And beautiful it is! Such green fields, such -magnificent trees, such hedges, ivy, hawthorn, and a tangled mass of -sweetbrier and wild rose. Houses covered with ivy and roses. Roses in -bloom everywhere, little plots of ground around the stations filled with -roses—red, white, and yellow, their sweet fragrance pouring into the -windows of our car. The flocks of sheep, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17"></a>{17}</span> herds of cattle in the -fields and meadows, resting, or cooling their feet in silver streams. O -how beautiful this all is! The blue sky of to-day seems so near us. -Glimpses of cathedrals and palatial homes greet us. The fields of wild -poppies and wheat add brilliancy to it all. Surely we must be in the -highly cultivated, most beautiful part of England! But no, it is all the -same. There are no rough spots in England, no stony pastures, no broken -fences: it is all a beautiful garden from one end to the other. F. says -almost too ‘spick and span;’ but to me, perfection. Our first stop was -at Rugby. Ascertaining that we must remain there two or three hours, and -remembering ‘Tom Brown,’ we set out to see the world-renowned school. -Its buildings are large and castle-like. Any man who has resided in the -county two years is entitled to send his sons to the school, to be -educated free of expense. There is a pretty chapel here, and in the -transept a monument to the revered Dr. Thomas Arnold. One of the -stained-glass windows is also in memory of him, and the words beneath it -seemed to me particularly touching and appropriate:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18"></a>{18}</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>‘And Jesus said unto him, Thomas, because thou hast seen me thou -hast believed: blessed are they who have not seen, and yet have -believed.’</p></div> - -<p>The name of Arnold seems to be revered by every one in Rugby, and his -best monument is the school for which he did so much. He buried creeds -and lived by the Golden Rule.</p> - -<p>Our next halt was at Leamington, and here we are, feeling quite like -citizens. The town is crowded with visitors, and we were most fortunate -in finding rooms at a small hotel which had just been vacated by -Americans. This town is a health resort and a fashionable and popular -one. There are four medicinal springs, each one different from the -others in remedial properties. The streets of the town are broad, shaded -by grand old trees that form perfect arches for long distances. The -residences are immense and very handsome, some quite palatial; but -seeing ‘To Let’ on many of them, we came to the conclusion that they -were too expensive for the owners to live in, but were afterwards told -that the richest and most cultivated people of the place rent their -houses for almost fabulous sums, for the months of May<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19"></a>{19}</span> and June, and -take that time to travel themselves, on the Continent. Near the royal -pump-room, at the beautiful Jephson Gardens, on the banks of the river -Leam, in the little parks, in the streets, and everywhere else here, we -see bath-chairs on wheels—people of all ages, from infants to aged men -and women, being drawn in them by their servants. I thought at first -they must all be invalids from some cause, but it seems not: many are -being trolled about in this manner for enjoyment. The drives in the town -and about its suburbs are of unrivalled beauty. We stood under the shade -of a large oak tree, said to be in the very centre of England. From here -we made an excursion to Stratford, which town has, if possible, an older -look than Chester. We asked a little girl to direct us to the church -where Shakespeare was buried. She looked somewhat frightened, and -answered, ‘He is not buried; he keeps store down that way.’ It was -evident the little tot was not Stratford-born. We sauntered along, and -soon met a gentleman who gave us the desired information. Walking -through a beautiful avenue of lime trees, we soon reached the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20"></a>{20}</span> church. -In the chancel is the tomb of Shakespeare. A bust of the great poet is -on the wall, and there is a flagstone bearing the inscription familiar -to all:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Good friend, for Jesvs sake forbeare<br /></span> -<span class="i1">To digg the dvst encloased heare:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Bleste be ye man that spares thes stones.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And curst be he that moves my bones.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The church is very old,—a cruciform, with central tower and spire; and -some portions of the old carvings attracted our attention. I was much -disappointed with the expression of the face of the bust: it looked as -if the great man felt nauseated, and the atmosphere of the church made -me feel intensely so, so close and musty was it; so out into the air we -gladly went. We strolled about in the churchyard for a while, looking at -the old stones and reading the queer epitaphs. On one were these words, -after the name of a wife, her age, and time of decease: ‘The Lord has -done great things for us, whereof we are exceeding glad.’ I doubt that -widowed husband being able to win wife number two. The house where the -poet was born is a little old structure of wood<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21"></a>{21}</span> and plaster, but well -preserved. The walls of several of the rooms are entirely covered with -names written by the sight-seers who have visited them. How strange but -how true it is, that real genius nearly always springs from homes of -poverty! Everything in the town has a Shakespearian flavor. The fine -fountain presented by our own countryman, George W. Childs, is a -beautiful offering. The Shakespeare Memorial Buildings, in the form of a -theatre, are very elegant, and contain some fine pictures. F. left me to -enjoy the interior of this new edifice, saying to ‘look for her on the -banks of the Avon,’ and when I did so, found her sleeping in a boat, on -the immortalized waters, with the willow trees on the banks throwing -their shadows over her. One can scarcely help feeling tinges of romance -and sentiment here, this river has been so sweetly sung of; and yet it -is a very unpretentious, quiet, narrow stream; but memories of the Bard -of Avon linger in every spot.</p> - -<p>We were shown, at the Red Horse Hotel, the rooms which were occupied by -our own Washington Irving during his visit here, and in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22"></a>{22}</span> parlor was -the ‘Sexton’s Clock’ which he refers to in the ‘Sketch Book.’ We have -seen the oddest names in England, for inns and boarding-houses, -imaginable, such as the Pied Bull, The Elephant and the Castle, The -Turtle and the Lamb, The Pig and the Whistle, The Hole in the Wall, and -The Struggling Man. Now the English are not wise in the selection of -such names. For my part, I should look farther for a stopping place. I -would not care to try to rest in The Hole in the Wall, or to be -protected by The Struggling Man.</p> - -<p>We visited New Place, Shakespeare’s home, and the Guild Chapel close by, -and ended the day by taking a short drive through some of the quaint -streets and the green lanes of this reposeful, historical, and -beautifully situated Stratford, whose whole atmosphere seems to be that -conducive to pure, high thoughts, spiritual exaltation, rest, and peace. -We returned to Leamington in time for a pleasant evening drive, after a -fair dinner.</p> - -<p><i>June 19th.</i>—We slept well, and took an early breakfast, then started -for Kenilworth Castle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23"></a>{23}</span> It was a glorious morning. Where are the clouds -and fogs of England? We have yet seen none, and the road we were driven -over was beautiful. The pastoral scenes, made up of pretty homes, -cultivated fields, and flowers and ivy everywhere before and around us, -made us eagerly drink all in as a sweet nectar. And, more than all, the -entire way was clothed with historic interest. We could easily imagine -Queen Elizabeth and her lords and ladies dashing along over this very -ground in regal splendor. The castle is a ruin, but a grand one. It -stands on a high hill surrounded by a wall and moat, the former now down -in many places and the moat dry. The walls of the castle, sixteen feet -through, are now covered with a luxuriant growth of ivy, so thick that -the length of my long-handled parasol was lost in the mass of dark-green -leaves. When I look at this ivy and think of my little one at home, that -I have carefully tended for years, and yet it is no thicker now than a -jellyfish, I do not think much of English ivy torn from its mother soil. -The numerous turrets and towers are also covered with the same vine, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24"></a>{24}</span> are homes for hundreds of ravens. It is owing to the works of Scott -that this old castle is of such famous interest. As we wandered from -cells to banquet halls, we recalled the revellings and grandeur in the -latter, and the groans in the former that could not reach the ear of -mortals. In the ball-room we thought of the Earl of Leicester, who -ordered all clocks stopped that Elizabeth should take no note of time. -And at the entrance of the deep, dark dungeon we sighed for the -suffering Amy. But, had we stayed in the ruins much longer, ruined -financially should I have been, for the several ‘gentlemen,’ who seemed -to be looking at the same objects and with the same interest as myself, -and of whom I asked questions, proved to be guides or informers, and -expected their shillings. ‘How could I have known it?’ I exclaimed as F. -advised me not to talk so much. Well, I fear it is true that in this -country, if we ask a question, we must generally pay for the answer. -‘Pity ’tis ’tis true.’</p> - -<p>Adieu to Kenilworth, and on to Warwick, which is of itself a village of -considerable size.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25"></a>{25}</span> Warwick Castle is the finest baronial residence in -all England. The approach to it is charming. We passed under the arched -and massive gateways into a winding avenue cut out of solid, unbroken -rock, and on which the castle itself is built; each side the rocks tower -far above our heads and are covered with ivy and other vines, and oh so -cool and beautiful it looks; so refreshing to us. All at once, and at an -unexpected turn, the magnificent castle is in sight. The lawn in front -of it, with its rare plants and parterres of gorgeous blossoms, the -sparkling fountains, and the many peacocks strutting about on the velvet -sward, with their gay plumage spread to its utmost extent, as if for our -especial admiration, almost dazzled us. We paused to take in the scene -before us, exhausting our vocabulary of adjectives in expressions of -delight. Every feature of the aspect was bright, winning, and -delightful. Some aristocratic terriers were grouped under the shade of a -white lilac, as if holding council. Dignified swans were lazily swimming -in the lake, and the red and gold uniformed Guards seemed perfectly -satisfied to spend the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26"></a>{26}</span> rest of their lives in slowly pacing up and down -the gravelled walks. The castle is in complete preservation, and its -long list of halls, libraries, and drawing-rooms are filled with rare -objects of beauty and interest, of great value. The guide who showed us -through the rooms carried himself in a most stately manner: his backbone -was surely made of iron, and ran up to the top of his head to hold on -his bushy wig, for he could not bend his body or turn his neck. Not -hearing one of his explanations in regard to a mosaic table, formerly -owned by Queen Elizabeth, I asked him what he said. This ‘Grand Mogul’ -slowly whirled his entire breadth toward me, and articulated in a -monotone these words, ‘The explanation I have once rendered.’ I said, ‘I -am sorry I did not comprehend it, but, as you are here for the purpose -of explaining, will you please tell me the story of the table again.’ F. -was dazed, but the man changed his superior attitude, and from that on -through the entire castle he gave me his devoted attention. In one of -the halls is a wonderful table, entirely formed of precious stones, -which once belonged to the ill-fated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27"></a>{27}</span> Queen Marie Antoinette. Statues -and original busts of many old warriors and kings are here. There is a -red, a gilt, and a cedar drawing-room, all filled with really -magnificent paintings. I took great interest in studying the portraits -of Queen Elizabeth, the Earl of Leicester, and others who participated -in the gay life led near this spot.</p> - -<p>In the grounds are Guy’s and Cæsar’s Towers, and in one of the -greenhouses we saw the celebrated Warwick Vase, which was found in the -bottom of a lake in Rome, as long ago as 1770, I think. The Earl and -family live here a part of the year, but are now in London. This estate -must bring the Earl quite a revenue, as from fifty to one hundred -persons visit it every day, and each one leaves a shilling or more.</p> - -<p>Near the castle gate is the house where Walter Savage Landor was born, -and this whole Warwickshire is rich in the genius it has given to the -world. Green and Drayton opened their eyes on its illustrious soil, and -George Eliot, whose talent has enriched this age, here first saw light. -How can one feel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28"></a>{28}</span> like a common mortal, or lead an everyday life in a -country like this, so hallowed with historic and artistic associations.</p> - -<p>‘Step out of the past now into the present,’ said F., ‘and I will tell -you a story of Queen Elizabeth and Queen Mary. Did I ever tell it to -you?’</p> - -<p>‘I do not recollect any such story that you ever told. Was it a good -one?’</p> - -<p>‘O yes!’</p> - -<p>‘Then you never told it.’ I did not get the story.</p> - -<p>Not far from the castle is a cathedral of considerable pretensions, -after visiting which, we were driven back to Leamington, having spent a -most delightful day. Finding that an express train would get us to -London to-night, we paid our bills, took our bags, bade good-by to the -pretty Spa and our pleasant landlady, and were soon off.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29"></a>{29}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_III" id="LETTER_III"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER III.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Edwards Hotel, George St., Hanover Sq.,<br /> -London</span>, <i>June 20</i>.<br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> rooms we had telegraphed for, so upon reaching the city we had -nothing to do but enter a cab and be driven to them. We have homelike -accommodations, and our meals served in our own private parlor. -Everything in the house is so quiet that I did not know but we had made -a mistake and got into a retreat for the deaf and dumb. F. thinks it -fine, but I must say that when I am at a hotel I like the bustle and -excitement of one.</p> - -<p>The ‘office’ is a small room, presided over by two pretty young ladies, -who I imagine look upon us as intruders, but I talk <i>at</i> them so much, -they are obliged to speak occasionally,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30"></a>{30}</span> although it seems an effort. -They drop their h’s, and I am sometimes puzzled to understand the little -information they condescend to give us.</p> - -<p>‘Boots,’ too, is equally taciturn so far: I think we shall have to be -more liberal with our English shillings!</p> - -<p>We hire our rooms here at a fair price, and make extra arrangements for -our meals. For breakfast, F. desired boiled eggs, and I chose fried. -Upon asking why my bill was more than hers, I was told that it was more -work to fry eggs than to boil them, and that is so. I look in vain for -ice-water: there is surely none around. I ask for some; and after -waiting long enough for water to freeze, am served with a pitcher of -water and a few small bits of ice in a glass. The Yankee ice-pitcher, -kept well filled, is an article unknown here.</p> - -<p>Out into the streets of London! What a crowd, what a bustle! What -fine-looking gentlemen, every one with a button-hole bouquet! The -streets crowded with handsome turnouts dashing quickly along; why, we -cannot cross the streets without assistance. Boston<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31"></a>{31}</span> is a quiet village -compared to this. Groups of ladies, and rosy-cheeked girls laughing and -chatting, all wearing flowers; even the horses and carriages are trimmed -with them. Lines of hansoms, with generally a lady in each. Little -children, with overpowering big hats and bonnets, trotting along with -their nurses. Showily uniformed Guards as thick as flies at a summer -hotel,—and this is London to-day.</p> - -<p>Here is St. George’s Church, where so many of the aristocracy have taken -each other for better or for worse. And here in Hanover square is a fine -bronze statue of William Pitt. It looks to me like extraordinary good -work, but F. calls, ‘Come, you cannot spend much time cogitating over -any one man in this big place, dead or alive. If you want to soliloquize -over statues, come to St. Paul.’ And to St. Paul’s we went. There are -but two churches in the world larger than this: St Peter’s at Rome and -the Cathedral at Milan. As I tried to realize its immense proportions -before entering, I thought of the Yorkshire-man who brought his better -half to see the sights of London. ‘There, lass,’ said he,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32"></a>{32}</span> ‘there be -Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he be.’ And we agreed with -him long before we finished seeing the interior and its contents. There -are many, many monuments, and some exceedingly costly and beautiful, but -it is utterly impossible to comprehend so much at once. Some of the -sculptures of the church, telling the touching story of the incarnation -and life of our Saviour, were sadly beautiful, especially the figure of -Mary with the child in her arms, and the ideal figure of the ‘Risen -Christ.’ The ornamentations of the church are greatly in gilt and -marble, but the most of the latter material looked as if it needed -‘scrubbing.’ The huge organ, which seemed to be built on both sides of -the choir, was being tested by some noted organist; so we had the -pleasure of hearing its rich, full, exquisitely musical tones.</p> - -<p>Next we visited the Royal Exchange and the Bank of England; then made -our way to the ‘Tower,’ where kings and queens once lived, and where -many lost their heads. Just after entering the gates, a Guard approached -us, and without any apology or hesitation said,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33"></a>{33}</span> ‘Will you tell me the -name of the man who ran with Cleveland for president.’ As soon as we -could recover ourselves, we gladly gave him the desired information, -without expecting the usual shilling <i>we</i> pay for asking a question -here. But we were astonished that he should have so quickly recognized -us as Americans, without hearing our voices. He returned to his comrade, -and they evidently resumed their interrupted conversation.</p> - -<p>The ‘Tower of London’ is now something of a historic museum. The room -containing the real Crown jewels was of much interest to me. Queen -Victoria’s crown is there, which she wore at her coronation and has worn -several times since, on state occasions. It is a large, high crown, -principally of gold, with a narrow strip of ermine about the lower edge. -The upper portion is completely studded with precious stones, a blazing -mass of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. Many other crowns and ornaments -are here, all containing jewels beyond value. They were indeed a sight -to behold, and really a delight to the eye. But before entering the -ground, in the street<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34"></a>{34}</span> beyond, a weary, sunken-eyed woman, with an -emaciated child in her arms, asked me for enough money to buy some -bread. As I looked upon that scene and upon this, I felt the meaning of -the words which my maid at home uses when matters do not suit her, -‘There is a screw loose somewhere.’ Or perhaps over here the screw is -too tight. We went into the different rooms and towers where so many -royal prisoners suffered. In the Beauchamp Tower we found, amongst the -many inscriptions on the wall, the word ‘Jane,’ supposed to have been -placed there by the gentle, ill-starred Lady Jane Grey. We saw dungeons, -the bloody tower, the green where Anne Boleyn and many others were -executed; and all these places were so steeped with monstrous, cruel -deeds that it was a relief to turn away from them and shake off the -terrible memories.</p> - -<p>We somehow felt heavy-hearted, and F. decided it would be a good thing -to see a different extreme, and take a look at ‘wax figgers.’ The -underground railway, our first ride of the kind, soon carried us to -Madame Tussaud’s museum.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35"></a>{35}</span></p> - -<p>These railways are, after all, not so very different from railways above -ground. There are so many stations where the daylight streams in, that -one does not have time to realize entire darkness. And what tremendous -space, thoroughly availed of, these stations give for advertisers. I -feel very familiar already with most of the stores, from these -advertising bills that stare us so conspicuously in the face.</p> - -<p>Madame Tussaud was really an artist, and modelled greatly in clay and -wax. For a long time she lived at the Tuileries and at Versailles, as -companion for noted porsonages of the Court. She was highly educated, -and possessed large means, but the Revolution compelled her to leave -France. Having lost her property, she began to exhibit her ‘figures,’ -and from that beginning has grown this large collection. A figure of -Voltaire, made by her from life, is simply wonderful. The entire -collection is much superior to the collection in the Eden Musee, New -York, and although some subjects are made to appear somewhat ridiculous, -the most are life-like and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36"></a>{36}</span>excellent. The murdered queens distressed -us; the wax ones have cheered us: and now for a ride in the open air!</p> - -<p>We took outside seats on a tram, and rode to the National Museum. I -delight in these top seats; we get such unobstructed views of everything -about us.</p> - -<p>We remained in the museum until the hour for closing, but only saw a -vast, immense accumulation of everything heard, unheard of, or dreamed -of.</p> - -<p>How singular many of the expressions we hear, sound to us. Lemonade is -called lemon-squash; the price of an article is the tariff; -ticket-offices are booking-rooms; and baggage, luggage always. The money -gave me some annoyance at first, but I now generally know what is the -correct change to give or to receive, but have one coin on hand which -puzzles me: all that I can see on it is—‘Thanks be to God and to -Victoria.’ I cannot quite decide the value of it.</p> - -<p><i>June 21st.</i>—Early this morning we sauntered toward St James’s Park, -noting the fine residences,—Marlborough House, the home of the Prince -of Wales and family, included. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37"></a>{37}</span> is a plain, large building, dreary -looking; and our free to go and come American girl says, ‘I am thankful -I am not a princess. What a stupid time those girls, Louise, Maud, and -Victoria must have, shut up behind those walls without ever being able -to take a walk with “Tom, Dick, and Harry” unattended.’</p> - -<p>An English lady told us, at our hotel, that there is a rumor that the -Princess Louise is very much in love with an English Earl much older -than herself. These girls are said to be all very plain looking, -inheriting none of the graces of their beautiful mother, who seems to be -greatly beloved by all the English people, and whose unfortunate -deafness excites heartfelt compassion and sympathy.</p> - -<p>The houses in London, even homes of the greatest simplicity, are named, -and the names are generally placed where they can be plainly seen and -read. The names of the residences of the nobility, as well as many names -of the streets, often give us a clue to their founders, and are -therefore appropriate and helpful.</p> - -<p>The Prince and Princess of Wales are now in Germany, on account of the -death of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38"></a>{38}</span> Emperor Frederick, the husband of the oldest sister of the -Prince. The entire royal family are of course in deep mourning. In fact, -two thirds of all the people here are now dressed in black. Our little -chambermaid, at our hotel, did not appear this morning as early as usual -to give us her service, and when she made her appearance I asked her if -she was ill. She replied: ‘Not at all, but we have been ordered into -Court mourning, and I sat up late to get my black dress made, so felt -very weary, and slept late.’</p> - -<p>We soon found ourselves near the military quarters, where we stopped to -see the Grenadiers, the Queen’s Guard, parade and drill, and to listen -to the fine music of the band.</p> - -<p>Buckingham Palace is quite near enough to Marlborough House for -Alexandra to run over to her mother-in-law, Mrs Guelph, to borrow her -spoons, in case her own number should be insufficient for any little tea -party, or for the good grandmother to be called if the children should -unexpectedly ‘come down’ with the chicken-pox or the measles; it looks -as if it might be a real social neighborhood. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39"></a>{39}</span> exterior of the -palace is of light-colored stone, but not nearly as fine a building as -we had expected to see, as the principal residence of the Queen. The -family had left for Windsor the day before. We were shown the royal -stables and saw the state coach. These royal residences do not impress -us as being in the least remarkable. They are immense in size, but -possess no merits in the way of architecture.</p> - -<p>This part of London is very beautiful, with its handsome streets and -soft green-turfed parks.</p> - -<p>We continued our walk to Westminster Abbey, and entered. If palaces have -not come up to my expectations, this far exceeds them. The church is -huge, built in the form of a Latin cross, a great pile of grandeur. The -interior is indeed most beautiful, and one might spend weeks within, and -yet feel that the half had not been seen. Such a succession of -wonderfully beautiful monuments and memorials to the distinguished, -illustrious, and talented dead. As works of art, this exquisite -sculpture delighted my eye more than anything<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40"></a>{40}</span> I had ever seen. Kings -and queens lie here, statesmen and historians, generals and -philosophers, inventors and poets, and the remains of many that were -great on earth, and the beautiful marble covers them! But oh, I know I -would rather lie like the poorest peasant under the greensward, where -the sun could shine on my resting-place. The reclining statue of the -wife of Dean Stanley is lovely beyond description. The angelic -expression of the beautiful sweet face seems to tell us that she has -found rest in her ‘Father’s mansion’ and is satisfied. How short a time -ago does it seem that I heard the Dean in our own Trinity. His body now -rests here. The words inscribed on the monument in memory of Franklin, -the Arctic explorer, were sadly touching: so simple, and yet so full of -meaning:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">O ye Frost and Snow!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O ye Ice and Cold!<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In the Poet’s Corner lies the mouldering dust of Thackeray, Southey, -Milton, Chaucer, Dickens, and many, many others, whose works will live -forever, and whose words and characters will carry companionship and -comfort<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41"></a>{41}</span> into many a household, as do the lines of our own Longfellow, -of whom his English admirers have here placed a beautiful bust. It is of -pure white marble, and the likeness excellent. It stands between the -monuments of Cowley and Dryden. Some one had placed a fresh red rose in -the folds of the drapery, probably some American, sight-seeing like -ourselves, and it all brought our home so near to me that tears came -unbidden</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Then the forms of the departed<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Enter at the open door:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The beloved, the true-hearted,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Come to visit me once more.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>And now, even in this temple of the dead, how sure we feel ‘There is no -death; what seems so is transition.’ A magnificent monumental chapel, -with costly statues and sculptures, surmounts the tomb of one of the -Henrys. Many other chapels, in memory of saints, are also here, with -aisles and transepts filled with monuments. The beautiful rose window -and the marigold window are worth crossing the ocean to see. But of the -numberless wonderful things here I must not now tell<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42"></a>{42}</span> you much more, -only will tell you that the Coronation Chair we have touched, in which -have been crowned all the English sovereigns from Edward the Confessor -to Queen Victoria. I reluctantly left this sacred building impressed -deeply with its wonders.</p> - -<p>We next went to a gorgeous restaurant to dine, fully coming to the -realization that we are still in the flesh. These London restaurants are -a surprise to us, in the quantity of excellent food they give, well -cooked and served, for very little money. I never before knew the real -meaning of a good mutton chop, for we get none in America like these -over here. The whitebait, here considered so great a delicacy, I do not -‘hanker’ for—should rather have a ‘Taunton herring.’</p> - -<p>After dining, we visited a collection of paintings, an annual exhibition -by English artists. After looking about there, we went to the exhibition -of the Royal Academy of Arts, which gave us great pleasure. The Royal -Academy is a private society, and from its fund supports a fine-art -school; and the judges of paintings connected with the Academy are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43"></a>{43}</span> -considered so perfect in their estimates, that it increases the money -value greatly of a picture if accepted by them and hung at their -exhibitions. We were told that on an average ten thousand pictures are -sent them for every annual exhibit, but rarely over two thousand are -accepted. This, of course, causes some hard feeling amongst the artists. -A portrait of Sir William Jenner, physician to the Queen, by Frank Holl, -R. A., was most life-like. Many portraits by Herkomer were also -excellent, particularly one of his aged father and his own young sons. -One painting, named ‘A Hopeless Dawn,’ by Bramley, attracted me greatly. -It portrayed the full meaning of the quotation from Ruskin: ‘Human -effort and sorrow going on perpetually from age to age; waves rolling -forever, and winds moaning, and faithful hearts wasting and sickening -forever, and brave lives dashed away about the rattling beach like weeds -forever; and still, at the helm of every lonely boat, through starless -night and hopeless dawn, His hand who spreads the fisher’s net over the -dust of the Sidonian palaces, and gave into the fisher’s hand the keys<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44"></a>{44}</span> -of the kingdom of heaven.’ Besides the oils and water-colors, the -collection of miniatures, etchings, drawings, engravings, and sculpture, -all exceptionally fine, gave us a rare pleasure. We here met the first -large assemblage of Londonites that we have seen. The élite of society -were present, and many noted persons pointed out to us. The ladies do -not dress as well as our own Americans, but I must give precedence to -the English gentlemen for both good looks and style, courtly manners and -taste in costumes.</p> - -<p>Having occasion to be near the Houses of Parliament, we thought we would -utilize time by going in then and there. But how to get in? We had not -taken time, as yet, to call upon Mr. Phelps for letters, as we had meant -to do later, having a letter of introduction to our Minister from a -personal friend of his and our own. ‘But time in London is precious,’ -said F., ‘so let us try.’ Parliament was in session, and being earnestly -anxious to see its workings, we screwed our courage to its utmost -tension and proceeded. After battling with a half-dozen Guards and -coaxing another half-dozen,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45"></a>{45}</span> we found ourselves inside the Lobby. An -immense concourse of ladies and gentlemen were in the corridors, waiting -their turn to be admitted, and our chances without a pass began to look -rather doubtful. However, with true Yankee pluck I looked over the faces -of the officials, and finally settled upon an amiable-appearing one, -belonging to a ‘Sergeant-at-arms’ and approached him—told him our -situation, and appealed to him for aid. He was every inch a gentleman, -and evidently anxious to assist us. Told us the only possible way to get -in was to send our card to a member. Yes, but we only knew names of -members, unfortunately; not one personally. Lowering his voice he said, -‘I have a brother inside, an official: give me your cards; I will send -them to my brother to give to Hon. —— ——. He is the champion and the -favorite of all ladies, and never refuses, at any sacrifice, to do them -a favor.’ We wrote ‘Boston, U. S. A.,’ in the corner of our pasteboards -(which is, we find, a good place to hail from), and they went from us to -seek their fortune and ours. Word soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46"></a>{46}</span> came back, brought by a handsome -page, that Mr. —— was then delivering a speech, but would see us soon. -We waited some time, with much about us to take our attention, when a -Guard called in stentorian tones, ‘The Hon. Mr. ——.’ We arose as we -were told to do by our new-found ally, and saw approaching us a small, -pleasant-faced gentleman, who immediately extended his hand with words -of welcome, as if we were expected guests. To the kind-hearted, gallant, -and courteous Irish M. P. shall we ever be grateful! A way was made for -us into the gallery of the chamber of peers, from which we had a good -view of the brilliant show below. Many ladies were present on the -benches, mostly peeresses or relatives of nobility. Later, our kind -escort sent for us to take seats in the ladies’ gallery of the House of -Commons, which, not without difficulty, he had secured. We realize the -great honor of being here, and yet it is a good deal like sitting up in -an organ loft, or being placed, front side out, in a bread toaster, for -we are separated from the M. P.’s by metal spokes. The reporters have a -place under us,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47"></a>{47}</span> and the members occupy the other galleries and the -three or four hundred seats about the tables. A member was speaking, but -his enunciation was so poor that I failed to understand him; so spent -the time in looking about. Gladstone was present, but did not speak; I -had a very good view of him. He does not look at all ‘John Bullish,’ in -the old sense of the expression, but is a refined, modest-looking -gentleman, with rather a tired-out air about him. A number with wigs and -gowns, some stiff-appearing functionaries wearing garbs that looked as -if they were prepared for the stage, many pages rushing hither and -thither, the buzz of voices, and the hand-clapping, all made a -bewildering scene. It seemed very much out of keeping with the usually -ceremonious proceedings of the Commons, to see the members costumed in -perfect evening dress, wearing their hats.</p> - -<p>In the House of Lords the throne is the chief object of interest, and -the peers, upon entering, always salute it, I presume as something of a -compliment to royalty. It contains three seats: the middle one is the -Queen’s,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48"></a>{48}</span> the right-hand one that of the Prince of Wales, and the one on -the left has not been allowed to be occupied since the death of Prince -Albert. When the Lord Chancellor takes his seat in this room, he wears a -red gown, an ermine mantle, a big wig, and a three-cornered hat. We -thanked our new-made friend for his unusual kindness, for he really -seemed determined to make us feel that showing us about was the greatest -pleasure of his lifetime, and we left the Houses at ten <small>P.M.</small>, with the -workings going on as lively as if just commenced.</p> - -<p>I think the manners of a Massachusetts legislative body superior in -dignity to those of the members of the House of Commons. But who under -the gilded dome on Beacon Hill would give himself as much trouble to -entertain a strange English lady, as our member took upon himself to -entertain us! Do not all speak at once, gentlemen.</p> - -<p><i>Friday, June 22nd.</i>—The clerk of the weather will come in rightfully -for his share of praise, for another bright morning greets us. We took -an early start for the National<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49"></a>{49}</span> Gallery. Turner has here the most of -his works. Some of his paintings, although not considered as masterly as -his Slave Ship, please me better, but it seems to me he delights in -capricious methods in the use of his brush. It is a treat to our eyes to -see the originals of Landseer, Rosa Bonheur, and other works of artists -which have become familiar to us from engravings. One of Raphael’s -Madonnas is here, and long held our attention. London is full of -artists, and in the galleries we see hundreds of students copying, and -some excellent work they do. Here lives Herkomer, who was with us at one -time, also Millais, Sir Frederick Leighton, Alma Tadema, and others -whose talent has brought them large fortunes. The chimes ring out our -hour for leaving, although our time here has not been half long enough. -I love these chime bells! And nearly all of the churches have them, and -sweetly do they sound their pretty airs.</p> - -<p>A drive of about four miles brought us to the exhibition of the Royal -Military Tournament. The pavilion contained an aristocratic audience, -and the good horsemanship of the soldiers, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50"></a>{50}</span> their handsome and -well-trained animals, was a novel sight. A lady sat next me with her two -little girls and their maid. The children had material enough in their -bonnets to have covered them all over comfortably, but their legs were -bare to the knees and looked cold, for the wind had changed, and a damp -draught chilled us. I offered part of my lap-wrap to the little ones, -and the mother kindly thanked me, but added, ‘They do not need it if -only their heads are warm; they cannot take cold; one never takes cold -in the legs, you know.’ And undoubtedly English mothers all agree with -her, for the children’s limbs are universally unprotected from the -weather. They wear heavy shoes but short stockings. I have already come -to the opinion that it is not of much use to differ with the English. If -we do, differently from them, they feel a little sorry for us that we do -not know the better way, which is always their way.</p> - -<p>This evening we went to the Covent Garden Theatre to hear Minnie Hauk, -in ‘Carmen.’ Not wishing to take time to get into full dress, we changed -our hats, substituting pretty,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51"></a>{51}</span> light-colored evening ones, and added -fresh, sweet roses to our costumes, and started, and thought our -appearance would do ourselves and all else credit. But to our -discomfort, opinions differed, and we could not be admitted to our box -without leaving our pretty head-gear outside, where they had no chance -of being seen and admired. After getting comfortably seated, we looked -about us. The ladies were dressed as if for a grand ball, silks, satins, -velvets, and tulles, of every color, composed the gowns, invariably made -décolleté—‘much, more, and most’ décolleté. Gentlemen were, of course, -all in dress suits, and every one wearing and carrying flowers. It was -indeed a brilliant scene, but I like the more modest costuming of our -own countrywomen, in public places, better. Displays like this, it seems -to me, should be made only, if at all, at private gatherings. The -setting of the opera and the music were superb. Hauk’s voice has -improved wonderfully since heard in America some years ago. She is a -great favorite here, and many of the aristocracy were of the audience, -and a loudly enthusiastic one it was. All the principal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52"></a>{52}</span> artists were -deluged with flowers, and Hauk received a laurel wreath of solid gold -leaves at the close of the last act. Prices to first-class -entertainments here are higher than in America, and programmes have to -be paid for always. They employ young women as ushers. Between acts, -ices and cool drinks are brought to the audience, but a round price is -asked for them. We lingered to see the people more distinctly as they -left their seats. The ladies lack the grace and beauty of Americans, but -look bright, rosy-cheeked, and healthful, but the gentlemen are -certainly superior in looks, carriage, and physique. Our little newsy -chambermaid tells us the London gentlemen all wear ‘stays.’ I wonder if -they do!</p> - -<p><i>Saturday, June 23d.</i>—What an immense city London is, to be sure! -Twenty miles long or more, and just as bustling at one end as the other. -There is such a mass of everything that it is almost overpowering. -To-day we have been driven through some of the best and some of the -worst streets in the city. We saw ‘The Old Curiosity Shop,’ and many -other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53"></a>{53}</span> spots immortalized by Dickens. We have looked into some of the -old churches and some of the new ones. Have been into the best stores, -and there are many fine ones. We find furs and silks cheaper, and -cottons dearer than at home. We could not find a pair of French kid -boots of a good shape in all London, and rubber overshoes are not kept -at all. We walked across London Bridge to take a look at the river, -crowded with barges, boats, ships, and water-craft of every make and -shape. We took luncheon at the Holborn Restaurant, and thought we had -stepped into a palace, so sumptuous were the surroundings. It was very -pleasing to take our bouillon on a mosaic table, surrounded with Carrara -marble statuary, and listening to the strains of lulling, restful music.</p> - -<p>After replenishing the ‘inner man,’ we boarded a little steamer for a -sail up the Thames. The banks of the river are full of interest. The -water of the lower part is thick and muddy, and I should think that even -a desperate, would-be suicide would turn from it disgusted. As we go up -farther, where the shipping is less,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54"></a>{54}</span> it becomes clearer. Excursion -steamers, barges, and yachts, freighted with humanity, are busily plying -up and down, and the bridges open gracefully to let us pass. The river -itself, with the Victoria Embankment on the one side and the Albert -Embankment on the other, the fine buildings, the parks, and the noble -trees, all seen through the rich atmosphere of this perfect June day, -make a picturesque and enjoyable impression, not soon to be forgotten.</p> - -<p>We landed, on our return, where we could take a carriage for Hyde Park. -As we are in London ‘in the season,’ in the Park, about five <small>P.M.</small>, we -see all the ‘swelldom’ driving and riding, for it is here they take -their airing. The Park itself is lovely, with large, perfect roads and -walks, grand, magnificent old trees, plump, clean sheep and graceful -deer grazing contentedly, as well they may in such quarters. The -kaleidoscope views of the interminable throng in the ‘Drive’ and the -‘Row,’ the fine horses, the gorgeous equipages, the showy liveries, and -the gay toilettes, are bewildering. Here surely is abundance of style. -Here are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55"></a>{55}</span> hundreds of elegant turnouts, many with armorial bearings, -fours-in-hand, sixes-in-hand, dog-carts, T-carts, tandems, and phaetons; -footmen and coachmen in livery of red and white, and red and gilt, some -with wigs and some without. Here comes a pony carriage with a load of -laughing children, there an antiquated yellow-bodied ducal coach, with -postilions well powdered and the dowagers inside looking powdered also; -a low buggy with a light-blue body, and a blue-ribboned girl with ‘her -young man’ beside her looking into her blue eyes; a black carriage hung -high, footmen and coachmen in black, and the ladies within draped in -crape. And this is Hyde Park! Solemnity and gayety! Prince and commoner -meet, and all are lookers on. The boats on the Serpentine, and that -wonderful pile of marble and bronze, the Albert Memorial, next attracted -us. The marble groups representing the four great nations, and the -bas-reliefs of great artists and poets, are fine. Although London is so -immense and so crowded, its people have plenty of beautiful breathing -spots, more beautiful than the people of any other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56"></a>{56}</span> city, unless the -Parisians. To our hotel to dress and out to dinner, our first dinner -here with friends.</p> - -<p>Our visit in a London home, last evening, was delightful, we were so -cordially welcomed and so hospitably entertained. The house, in one of -the best streets of the city, was a large, square one with hall in the -centre. The rooms were spacious, with dark finishings and furnishings, -therefore not wearing the cheery look of our own homes. The massiveness -of the elaborately carved furniture seemed to overshadow heavily the -very few ornamental articles displayed. There were no paintings on the -walls, but a small gallery in the rear of the house contained a good -collection. The effect of the living rooms without the bright, living -faces would have been somewhat sombre. I think a happy medium would be -desirable, a little more bric-a-brac in European homes and a little less -in our own, in which I have often had to navigate carefully to avoid -running against ornamental articles. The English people are at their -best under their own ‘fig-tree.’ They build homes for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57"></a>{57}</span> lifetime, and -for their children and grandchildren after them. They make but few -changes in them, and the women particularly stay, or ‘stop’ as they -would say, the greater portion of their lives in their homes, for as a -people they travel but little. They are very hospitable after once -having been introduced, and entirely at ease in entertaining, as an -English household is rarely without its guests. Our host, an M. P., has -a house in the country, and they only spend the ‘season’ in town. The -English greatly love the country and out-of-door life and sports. -Several friends of our entertainers had been invited to meet us, and we -found them all very gracious and charming. I think the English are a -good deal like a Devonshire pie,—wearing a thick crust, but when once -the crust is broken the ‘goodies’ are unusually delicious. Our menu at -dinner consisted of soup, fish, entrée, roast-beef, chicken, and desert, -with wines and coffee. No carving was done at the table. The vegetables -were brought in served in individual dishes. By the way, no vegetables -are palatably prepared in England, for they are never seasoned. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58"></a>{58}</span> -English keep many servants, and at this dinner there seemed to be a -servant for every guest. The English are great eaters, but they take -plenty of time to do it in. The general appearance of the setting of the -table was not different from our own home tables; perhaps more flowers, -and more beautiful ones. I mention these details to show you that -dinners informal here do not vary much from the same in America. Our -pleasant evening with Mr. M. and his lovely family will long be -remembered.</p> - -<p><i>Sunday, June 24th.</i>—No London fog yet! We have had but one unpleasant -day since we have been here. To-day is simply perfect. There is a -‘shimmer’ about these lovely June mornings that can be felt but not -described. Out with the crowd of churchgoers go we, and, to the credit -of the English people be it said, they all go to church. We first went -to old St. Giles’. Here we saw the tomb of Milton. What a safe, homelike -feeling it brings us to hear in far-away lands our precious church -service. Somehow it gives us a sense of security, of encouragement, such -as a child<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59"></a>{59}</span> in the dark feels, when he hears his mother’s voice.</p> - -<p>From St. Giles’ we wandered into a church near by, where a young man was -preaching to a large congregation. From his fine presence and good -voice, we hoped to hear also a good sermon—but were disappointed. He -seemed to suppose the Creator knew but little, and that it was his duty -to inform Him: he told Him of the needs of London, and especially of the -wants of his churchpeople. The only good part of the service was the -music.</p> - -<p>Later, we seated ourselves on a Thames steamer, which had evidently put -on its Sunday dress, and sailed up to Kew. I can give to you no -description of these beautiful gardens. They contain, I believe, the -largest conservatories in the world. The ferns and the palms were -forests of cool, green loveliness. The Victoria Regia lily is here, in -unsurpassed beauty. We wandered off into a shady, retired nook, and -seated ourselves on the grass, a lovely sheet of water in front of us, -birds trilling their vespers about us, and the myriads of blossoms -wafting to us their fragrant incense. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60"></a>{60}</span> was all to us a sermon that -was good for us. ‘For thou, Lord, hast made me glad through thy works; -and I will rejoice in giving praise for the operations of thy hands.’</p> - -<p>Next, we went by carriage to Richmond, a place of great historic -interest and attractions. The drive was beautiful. The distant views -were lovely. We passed many stately residences, surrounded by well-kept -grounds, ivy and flowers in abundance. But the English will build high -walls about their country homes, thus shutting themselves, oyster-like, -from the passers-by. These unsightly walls spoil what would without them -delight the eye. We stopped on Richmond Hill to see the beautiful views -from that elevation, and were well repaid. The river going on and on, -the meadows, the hills, the elms and the chestnuts throwing dark -shadows, the heaths and downs, the farm-houses and the mansions, Windsor -in the distance, and the peculiar mellowness of the whole landscape, -were worth the looking upon. At Hampton Court we took a look at the rich -tapestries and the paintings, including the ‘Hampton Court Beauties.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61"></a>{61}</span> -This old court has echoed to the footsteps of many kings and many noted -in history. Cardinal Wolsey fitted the place up in regal style, meaning -to give it the honor of his own presence, but King Henry looked on with -jealous, envious eyes, and asked him his reasons for having made so -costly a palace. The wily Cardinal was ingenious in his reply, -answering—‘To show how noble a palace a subject may offer to his king.’ -This palace is now used as a home by members of the nobility whose -incomes have been reduced. We spent a short time in the park and then -started toward London, a distance of twelve miles or more. We were -fortunate in securing front seats on a tally-ho coach, drawn by four -handsome gray horses. We stocked ourselves well with delicious fruit, -which the venders pass up to us on poles, temptingly arranged in little -baskets, and on we went over a beautiful road, through the glorious -Bushey Park, with its majestic elms and chestnuts. ‘O, we have no such -rural beauty as England!’ said I. ‘But we shall have when we are as -old,’ said my true American beside me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62"></a>{62}</span></p> - -<p>And that reminds me of what a gentleman at Leamington said, in answer to -my question, ‘How do you get the beautiful green your lawns wear?’</p> - -<p>‘We only water the grass,’ he replied.</p> - -<p>‘But,’ said I, ‘we keep our American lawns well watered and they do not -look like yours.’</p> - -<p>‘You forget, Madame, that we have watered ours for centuries,’ said he -with a smile.</p> - -<p>At last we enter the city, and drive through, through, through it, a -long, long way. Crowds of people in the streets, crowds in the parks, -crowds everywhere! Men are preaching on the corners, women singing, -members of the Salvation Army exhorting and praying, and at last we -reach our journey’s end safely. It is ten <small>P.M.</small>, and yet not dark, so -long are these English twilights!</p> - -<p><i>June 25th.</i>—The third one of our trio has again joined us, much to our -satisfaction, and to-day we have been to the Crystal Palace, the -Zoological Gardens, and have accomplished one hundred and one other -things. In the palace there is much to be seen—pictures, sculpture, and -other works of art. To-day an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63"></a>{63}</span> unusual crowd had gathered there to -attend the concert in the large hall in the afternoon. We were fearful -we might not be able, owing to the jam, to see all we came for, and here -we desire to thank again the secretary of the association for his -kindness toward us. If the English gentlemen are all like those we have -come in contact with, I for one shall ever sing their praises. Here we -heard ‘The Messiah’ by the ‘Handel and Haydn’ society. Albani and -Lillian Norton were two of the artistes, which quite Americanized the -company, and all were almost perfect in their parts. In the evening -elaborate pyrotechnic displays were made, which with the colored lights -and fountains, the bands playing, a company of ballet dancers performing -out-of-doors, and the army of gayly dressed people, made it seem like -veritable fairy-land. It is all alluring, but we must turn our backs -upon it, as we have an invitation to ‘The Criterion’ to see Windom as -David Garrick. The play was well acted, and when over, a supper at a -fine restaurant near, where a choir of boys sang to us beautiful glees, -with their sweet voices, ended<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64"></a>{64}</span> another enjoyable day. We have seen much -in London, and must leave much unseen, nor can I here tell you of the -half we have seen, but have given you some ideas of what I thought you -would best like to hear about.</p> - -<p>Of our trip to Brighton I believe I have not said a word, but will now -tell you a little about it, as it was different from any other. Brighton -is the largest and most fashionable of all English watering-places, but -as it is not yet the season there, the place had rather a deserted air. -It is a city of brick, and the houses look as if built to remain -forever, as does everything else in England. There is an esplanade of -solid stone, with promenades on top; on the one side of it is the beach -and sea, and on the other the large hotels and fine houses. A part of -every day’s programme is to dress in one’s best, and promenade up and -down the esplanade, but the promenaders all looked as solemn as if on -their way to a funeral. The ladies smiled not, and the men looked as if -they had iron pokers run up and down their backs, arms akimbo, heads -bent back to assist the glass over one eye to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65"></a>{65}</span> stay in place,—all quite -English, ‘you know.’ On the beach were plenty of ‘bathing machines,’ -which are really bathhouses on wheels, bath-chairs, and children with -their nurses, and in the surf a few bathers. The ladies seemed to have -more on than our water-nymphs at Narragansett Pier, and the gentlemen -apparently wore but little clothing; in fact, I was reminded of pictures -I used to see in my geography, of the costumes worn by natives in—well, -I think it was Africa; but they carried themselves, even in the water, -with dignity. Our drive back to London on a tally-ho was delightful.</p> - -<p>We have been favored here with pleasant weather, but I can imagine how -grim and black certain parts of the city would look, in bad. They use -much coal here, and, as everywhere else, it leaves its mark. We have -seen the best of London, and we have had glimpses of her rich citizens -and of her poor. There are many rich families here, because their wealth -has been inherited, just as the poor have inherited their poverty. -Families here keep in about the same groove that their ancestors<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66"></a>{66}</span> did -before them. The Queen is greatly beloved, and we all know she is a good -woman and a gracious sovereign. Of the Prince of Wales, also, I hear -many good things. But why should there be such a thing as ‘royalty?’ How -much better and higher is the code of self-government, than servile -obedience to any king or queen, human beings like ourselves. I could not -breathe freely as a citizen of a country where son of mine could not -take the highest place in the nation, if he were worthy of it and the -people’s choice. Thank God that ‘in the land of the free,’ our own -America, we can be whatever we make ourselves, and not what the accident -of birth has made us. Of ‘Merrie England,’ however, I shall carry away -with me grateful remembrances of her people, and a score of memories of -the beautiful land itself, which will ever be a source of enjoyment to -summon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67"></a>{67}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_IV" id="LETTER_IV"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER IV.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">June 26, 1888.</span><br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">From</span> London to New Haven by rail, and there took steamer to cross the -English Channel. It was stormy and very rough, and nearly all but our -party succumbed to sea-sickness. We could not remain outside, the storm -was so severe, and the close proximity of the <i>mal-de-mer</i> victims -proved a little contagious. The gong sounded for dinner, but I feared -dinner and my stomach would not agree, and remembering my determination -not to be sick, turned my back upon those that were, took a bright -little story, and soon got so interested in it that I entirely got over -my nearness to a capitulation. But we decided we liked the sea better -than the choppy Channel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68"></a>{68}</span></p> - -<p>We landed at Dieppe, and stepped upon French soil! We looked about the -queer old French town with our usual enthusiasm and curiosity, and then -proceeded to Rouen. Had three hours there. We dined in the garden of our -inn, on a table in an arbor covered with yellow roses of a peculiarly -sweet fragrance. The people looked at us with as much wonderment in -their faces as we at them. And what a bedlam their clatter makes to be -sure. Well for us that our escort can understand every language under -the sun—good, bad, or indifferent. We took a carriage and were driven -about the town. We went inside of three cathedrals, and we saw the spot -where Joan of Arc was burned. The streets of the old town are very -narrow, the houses queer and foreign. All of the women and children -seemed to be sitting out of doors, with knitting work in hand. They wear -little close caps and wooden shoes, and the skin of the women looks like -shrivelled leather. I am told that the lower class of the citizens of -Dieppe are very superstitious, that they believe, if the souls of those -drowned are not prayed for by their living relatives, at every<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69"></a>{69}</span> -midnight, for one year, a terrible storm will arise, and the ghosts of -the departed appear to them.</p> - -<p>At four <small>P.M.</small> we took train for Paris, running through a pretty country, -with fields of red poppies and large orchards of cherry trees, red with -ripe fruit. We bought them at every station, and most delicious were -they. The many hamlets or clusters of little thatched cottages, so very -close together, looked at least social.</p> - -<p>At eleven <small>P.M.</small> our train rolled into the station in the city of Paris; -and such a babel! Why will these people chatter so fast? We had no -trouble with our trunks, and with them were immediately driven to our -engaged apartments, in Rue Clement Marot, where we are to remain during -our stay. The name of the street has the right sound, at any rate, for -Marot was not only a poet but a philosopher, and his philosophy we may -need in ‘doing’ Paris.</p> - -<p><i>Paris, Wednesday, June 27th, 1888.</i>—Our hostess and her family have -given us a cordial welcome, and we already feel quite at home. Our -apartments are convenient and prettily<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70"></a>{70}</span> furnished, and we are to be very -happy here, I am sure. Our journey of yesterday tempted me to sleep late -this morning, but F—— let in the bright daylight, with an exclamation -of disapprobation at time in Paris being spent in slumber. So I was soon -ready, feeling like ‘a new top,’ for the day’s whirl. We have here, -served early in our rooms, or in the breakfast room, as we choose, rolls -and coffee. At noon we have ‘déjeuner à la fourchette;’ at five, tea; -and at seven a sumptuous dinner. A sweet young lady from Beverly and -several New Yorkers are of the household, so we make a pleasant family -party. We are near the Champs Elysées, and this part of the city is -beautiful—broad, fine streets shaded with trees. We took an early drive -in this vicinity, and were later left at the Salon, spending several -hours there. What a bewildering collection of pleasing pictures! I do -love these paintings of lovely faces, of home scenes, of restful bits of -scenery, by these modern artists. We so feel them; we comprehend them; -they gladden the heart as well as the eye. The painting which won the -first prize this year was a battle<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71"></a>{71}</span>-piece by D’Etaille. I recall a -picture at the Metropolitan Museum, in New York, by this same artist. -Meissonier had been his teacher, and he had also been chosen to award -the prizes, but when he attempted to address this man, his successful -pupil, he could not speak, and impulsively threw his arms about him and -burst into tears and kissed him. Surely there was no envy there. We have -seen many of Meissonier’s pictures here, and they are all wonderful in -their exactness to nature. His portraits are very life-like, and one -almost sees the blood go and come under the skin, so natural are the -flesh-tints. Pictures, like poems, must be read to be appreciated. But -to me, the most that I have seen of Turner’s I should label ‘Sanscrit,’ -not being able to read them. For instance, the one called ‘Tapping the -Furnace:’ I searched in vain in it for any object that looked like a -furnace, and I thought of the story I had heard of the farmer’s wife, -whose city cousin took her to see paintings in London. She looked at -Turner’s ‘The Day after the Deluge’—put on her spectacles, and read the -title: ‘Well! I should think it wur,’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72"></a>{72}</span> said she and passed on. Great -minds possess an intuition by which they can see farther into things -than ordinary minds can, and such minds probably understand and admire -Turner.</p> - -<p>On the river Seine are hundreds of little steamers plying up and down, -from which one gets good views of the river’s banks. From one we were -much amused to see how the washing of Paris is done. The washerwomen -bring their clothes to the river and wade in quite a distance, and rub -them in the muddy-looking water. We saw old women, pretty girls, and -children all thus at work. I cannot imagine what keeps them from having -rheumatism, neuralgia, and all the diseases that flesh is heir to. How -linen can be made to look white in such water I do not understand, and -yet some which we had laundered, and returned to us this morning, was -immaculate—white skirts and furbelows included, all for two francs a -dozen.</p> - -<p>We stepped from our steamer on shore, near Notre Dame, and entered this -cathedral, which, from pictures and descriptions familiar to us, seemed -quite like an old acquaintance. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73"></a>{73}</span> exterior is a regular cruciform, -with an octagon end. At the other extreme are two lofty square towers, -and back of them a spire, surmounted with a gilt cross. The outside is -also adorned with some massive statues. The multitude of statues, of -bas-reliefs, of beautiful sculpture, in the interior of the building, is -wonderful in design, richness and beauty. The subjects are mostly from -church history. There are many statues of the Virgin and Child, and the -expressions of all are angelic and peaceful, and yet each one greatly -differs from the rest. The face of St. Martin, who is represented in the -act of sharing his mantle with a beggar, to protect him from the cold, -is heavenly in its sweetness and beauty, and one turns again and again -to look at it. Some of the subjects, however, are not as pleasing or as -helpful. The Last Judgment is portrayed in three parts: the second scene -represents the separation of the righteous from the sinners, but the -faces of the ‘elect’ had such a victorious, triumphant, ‘I told you so’ -look, as they gazed down upon their condemned brothers and sisters, that -my sympathies were entirely with the sinners,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74"></a>{74}</span> and I thought I should -rather have cast my lot with them. Amongst the sculptures of the Arch is -a remarkable one of the Saviour trampling the wicked under His feet, and -motioning to Satan to drag them off to hell. This is not our idea of the -Saviour, who has said, ‘Come unto me,’ and ‘There shall be one fold and -one Shepherd.’ The sacristy of the cathedral consists of a lofty hall -(all of the large churches of Europe have sacristies and treasuries, in -which are kept the valuables belonging to the church) and in this one we -saw wealth untold. Church utensils, mitres, crosses, crosiers, swords, -and many other articles, studded with precious stones, dazzling in their -splendor. The robes which were worn by Pius VII. at the coronation of -Napoleon I. were exhibited to us: they were very richly embroidered with -silver and gold. A statue, as large as life, of the Virgin and Child, -made of solid silver, is also here.</p> - -<p>We next went to the church of St. Eustache. The altar of this church is -exceedingly high, and composed of pure white marble, exquisitely -sculptured, and the church also contains fine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75"></a>{75}</span> frescoes. Took a glance -at the church of St. Germaine, which was the favorite place of worship -of the Empress Eugénie. Also took in St. Chappelle, where we heard some -soul-stirring music. All of these cathedrals are rich in stained glass, -and are of immense proportions and varied beautiful architecture.</p> - -<p>Feeling that we could not comprehend the wonders of any more churches in -one day, we changed our train of thoughts to justice, by going through -the Palais de Justice and into several other handsome public buildings. -My eyes were brightened, also, by a look at the glitter of brilliant -gems in the shops of the Palais Royal, although the other wise minds -thought time thus spent a waste. ‘Stores enough in New York and Boston,’ -they said; but oh, not such stores! How bright, how tempting the -contents of those windows were! The shopkeepers of Paris think all -Americans millionaires, and under some circumstances it might be -flattering to be thus considered, but in shopping in Paris it is -unfortunate, as in many stores here I am sure they advance the price of -articles when an American seems to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76"></a>{76}</span> wish to purchase. I very much -desired to obtain an odd little pin in one of the shops, but found it -much dearer than I expected. The next day the daughter of my hostess -secured it for me for about half the amount they valued it at when they -thought <i>I</i> wished to buy it. But this is not the principle of all the -stores, by any means.</p> - -<p>The cabs of Paris are a great convenience. They are cheap to employ, and -are handsome and most comfortable, much the shape of our Victorias. They -use good, well-kept looking horses, well harnessed, and the <i>cochers</i> -are attentive and polite. For all of this one has only to pay one franc -to be carried anywhere within the city limits, or two persons can ride -one hour for two francs. When I think of my carriage bills at home, in -the party season especially, I feel like staying in Paris—and riding on -forever—it is such a great pleasure for so little money.</p> - -<p>During the day, we secured tickets for the opera this evening, but there -were as many forms to go through with as we have for the inauguration of -the President of the United<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77"></a>{77}</span> States, and when the desired articles are -at last transferred to the purchasers’ hands, at the rate of five -dollars apiece, they are so cumbrous that one needs a valet to carry -them. Our own method of going to the ticket window and quickly securing -our little pieces of pasteboard, for half the money, is much better. -After a fully appreciated dinner at home we arrayed ourselves for the -entertainment, knowing better than to go in street costume, or with -bonnets on, this time. Our box was a lower one, in the centre of the -row, and from which we had a fine opportunity of seeing the audience and -the beautiful interior of this house. It is simply magnificent. The -decorations are rich, light, and cheerful. The vestibule and stairways -are gorgeous and dazzling. About the halls and corridors are placed -tables, where between acts the ladies and gentlemen sit, and sip cool -drinks and ices, chatting and laughing as if life were all a gala day. -All are in full dress, and the ladies’ gowns are exquisitely made and -worn; low corsages, with diamond necklaces clasped around the throats of -the fair wearers, predominate. As these French<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78"></a>{78}</span> ladies and their -dark-moustached escorts promenade over the white marble stairs to the -strains of the sweet music, it is a gay and festive scene. We watched, -with much interest and admiration, one very beautiful girl, the very -loveliest of them all, and how delighted we were when we heard her -speak, and found her to be an American. The opera was ‘L’Africaine,’ and -was gorgeously set and grandly rendered. It was one <small>A.M.</small> when we reached -home, but our kind hostess was waiting for us, to have the pleasure, as -she said, of serving us with strawberries and cream.</p> - -<p>By the way, such delicious cherries, strawberries, raspberries, and -apricots as we have here do not grow in America. The market women drag -the fresh, luscious fruits in wagons through the streets, and for a few -sous one gets his fill.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday, June 28, 1888.</i>—Another morning spent in the Salon, and I -wish we could have had time to have given the entire day there. We -lingered before our favorite pictures, and at last turned reluctantly -away from them, as from living friends. Spent the next<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79"></a>{79}</span> hour at the -Trocadero and its beautiful garden. The hall in the ‘Palace of the -Trocadero’ will seat 10,000 people. The aquarium and museum connected -are of much interest. Some of the statuary and sculpture are so -beautiful that it seems impossible that human hands could have carved -the speaking faces from blocks of marble. It is opposite here that the -Exposition of 1889 is to be held. Museums in Paris are as thick as plums -in a Thanksgiving pudding. Going toward the Madeleine, we stopped in the -flower-market; tables and baskets were piled with flowers,—tons of -them—cut flowers, and potted plants in bloom, and selling for a ‘mere -song’ compared with home prices. We have so often looked eagerly in the -florists’ windows on Tremont Street, just wishing and longing for even -one jacquiminot, but when that took a dollar we had often to be -satisfied with looking. ‘And now,’ said F., ‘we will have all we want; -we will wear them, and smell them, to our hearts’ content, and is not -Paris delightful, and what a good time we are having!’ Loaded with sweet -blossoms, we strayed into<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80"></a>{80}</span> the Madeleine, and seated ourselves just as a -bridal party was entering the other aisle. We were uninvited but -sympathetic guests. The bride looked very young, with a pretty face and -figure, and a confiding, trustful manner; and when the groom, rather a -distinguished-looking Frenchman, took her hand, and promised to love and -cherish always, our hearts and lips cried Amen! We hope this little -bride chose her own husband, for husbands, here, we are told, are -generally selected by the parents of the girls for them, and they rarely -rebel. Nearly all marriages among the wealthy class are ‘mariages de -convenance.’ Indeed, a young girl here has a sorry sort of a time of it -before she is married; she cannot be alone with gentlemen long enough to -know whom she would like to choose for a husband, and consequently is -more willing to accept submissively the one chosen for her, for marriage -brings to her more freedom, liberty of action, and pleasure.</p> - -<p>Since here, we invited a French lady to go to an entertainment with us. -She accepted, but came to us later to apologize and decline,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81"></a>{81}</span> as she -found herself obliged to chaperone her daughter, who was going to a -garden party with Monsieur M., and of course could not go with a man -alone. ‘Why, what is the matter with her man? Is he a lunatic?’ said F. -‘I went shopping alone yesterday, and asked information about the shops -and streets of several of the genus, and they all seemed sane and -gentlemanly.’ ‘Yes,’ was the lady’s reply, ‘they knew you to be an -American, and American girls can do as they please here, unmolested, for -they have always so respected themselves that all respect them.’ We were -glad of the compliment for our countrywomen. The new-made wife and -husband, with bridesmaids and ‘assistants’ (as they term, here, the -ushers) and their friends, passed from the church, with our best wishes. -This noted church is Grecian in style. Its altars are of carved wood and -gold. The huge bronze doors have illustrations of the Ten Commandments -in bas-relief. The altar is richly sculptured, and one portion of it -represents angels bearing Magdalen to Paradise on their wings. Our good -escort lights candles in all churches we enter, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82"></a>{82}</span> the longest ones -too, for the forgiveness of our sins, so I trust ere we leave this land -we may be immaculate.</p> - -<p>Out of the church, with all its holy sacredness and beauty, into the -sunlight and the brightness of the streets. A barouche is waiting for -us, in which we are soon seated, and rapidly dashing along on the -asphalt pavement of the most beautiful boulevard in the whole world, the -Champs Elysées. The avenue is broad, flanked with stately residences and -beautiful rows of elms and limes, and long shady parks. We sped along, -meeting showy equipages filled with gay people, behind high steppers -managed by light-colored costumed coachmen, with remarkably big buttons. -Many are on horseback, and the broad sidewalks are filled with happy -promenaders. Surely it was a merry sight, and all were enjoying it in -the rich atmosphere of this lovely June day. We paused, to see the Arc -de Triomphe, then passed under it to the Bois de Boulogne, a lovely park -and driveway, with lakes, cool groves, fountains, cascades, rustic -houses and seats, and everything beautiful to make it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83"></a>{83}</span> what it is, a -delightful resort. We alighted, sailed about the lake in a -Cleopatra-like barge, sat at a vine-covered table, and drank the sweet -milk that a pretty, black-eyed milkmaid brought to us fresh from her -cow, and felt that this was our ‘life’s holiday.’</p> - -<p>A lady, a Bostonian too, but whose home has been here for several years, -said to me to-day: ‘And so you live in Boston. Why, it makes me blue to -even think of Boston, with its stiff society, its spectacled women, and -its doleful teas!’ But I could not agree with her. Another lady, now -living here, a woman of wealth and rare intelligence, told me that she -spent a year in Boston, and that repeatedly she had been a guest at -small parties and large ones, where she had not been introduced to any -one of the assemblage. Such a neglect, in the best society of Europe, -would be considered a great breach of politeness or a marked rudeness. -Here, all persons invited to meet at the house of a friend consider it -almost obligatory to speak with each other, if by chance or oversight -they are not presented, and it is the custom for the hostess of an -invited company<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84"></a>{84}</span> to have her daughters and their young lady friends move -amongst the guests, to see that all are introduced, and are having a -pleasant, enjoyable time.</p> - -<p>Shall I tell you our menu for dinner to-night? It will be, I am sure, -rather different from your own. But at our Paris home everything is -deliciously cooked and served, and E. says we had better make the most -of it; food will not be as temptingly prepared for us in Germany. First, -soup, followed by fish, cheese, and radishes, preserves and mustard, -roast beef and maccaroni, potatoes, chicken and salad, cake, -strawberries, cherries, and apricots, with wines of various kinds, all -followed by coffee.</p> - -<p>I forgot to tell you that in our drive to-day we met Sara Bernhardt; she -looked very bright and happy, and not at all the dying ‘Camille’ that -she was the last time my eyes gazed upon her. She has a fine home here, -and receives all who choose to call upon her one day each week. She is -charitable, helpful, and sympathetic to all, and the Parisians adore -her.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<p><i>Paris, June 29th.</i>—It rained to-day, for even in Paris it must -sometimes rain. We went to the galleries of the Louvre early, and were -so absorbed that we remained until 4 <small>P.M.</small> E., our escort to-day, once -lived six years in Paris, and the paintings in the Louvre were his old -friends, so that the information he gave us was of great instruction and -benefit. F., too, had been well drilled for the enjoyment by studying -the old masters and by her readings of the schools of early art. Not -being an artist myself like my two companions, I could scarcely enter -their sphere of enjoyment, or see with their eyes, so looked in my own -way. This, you know, is the largest gallery in the world, and contains -the most of the valuable works of all the great masters, Rubens, -Raphael, Murillo, Titian, Rembrandt, Claude Lorraine, Paul Veronese, and -other world-renowned artists. The works of no artist are placed here -until the artist himself has been dead ten years or more; they are -retained in the Luxembourg galleries during the life of the painter. E. -wished us to take certain pictures of Rubens first, of which artist he -has great knowledge<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86"></a>{86}</span> and a keen appreciation. He says it is impossible -for us to see best many pictures in a short time, so we must take the -best pictures and see them in many ways. The allegorical pictures -relating to Marie de Medici were our first study, but the angels were -very unangelic-looking to me. Each one looked as if tipping the scales -at two hundred pounds would be an easy matter. In fact, all of Rubens -women that I have so far seen look more earthly than spiritual. These -pictures bring up many thoughts of the hapless Marie de Medici, a woman -of great beauty, and of Richelieu, the intriguing, powerful Cardinal, -whose influence was so great over the King, her son, Louis XIII. This -woman, Rubens so often painted, died at last, after the implacability of -Richelieu caused her to be banished from France, in the attic of the -house where Rubens was born, in Cologne. The Salon Carré contains the -great treasures of the Louvre, or the most of them. Here we saw the -indeed beautiful painting of Mary Anointing the Feet of Jesus, and the -even more wonderful one of The Marriage Feast at Cana, both by Paul -Veronese. I cannot imagine a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87"></a>{87}</span> human mind even conceiving such a picture, -much more putting it on canvas. It is simply perfect. Titian’s works -have a great charm for me, and Raphael’s, also. We roam from room to -room; my delighted companions turn their attentions to me often with -remarks of this nature: ‘Now do look at this; it is one of the great -works of the world.’ ‘You remember this happened in the reign of King or -Queen So-and-so.’ ‘You recollect the story in the Old Testament of ——,’ -and so forth and so on! I look; say, Oh yes! Am sometimes a little -inwardly muddled, but quietly decide to know for myself what I honestly -like best. Of all the Madonnas, I like Murillo’s the most. His colors, -not as positive as those of Rubens, are warm, deep, and rich, with a -certain peculiar softness of finish that no other artist has. Surely -genius is God-given. We made no attempt to see the antiquities this -time, but could not leave without paying our respects to the most -beautiful of all women—the Venus de Milo. Our ever-gallant escort says, -‘No;’ no woman can be the most beautiful to him, who cannot extend her<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88"></a>{88}</span> -arms to greet him; but beautiful she is. A whole day in the Louvre, and -yet comparatively how little of it have we seen. This evening we saw -‘Adrienne Lecouvrer’ played at the Comédie Française.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday, June 30th.</i>—The sun shone for us brightly again this -morning, and we took an early drive through the always attractive -streets and parks of Paris. Early as it was, crowds of people were to be -seen, driving, walking, and sitting in the ‘sidewalk cafés,’ and under -the trees, chatting, laughing, and everybody seeming to have plenty of -leisure time. How is it that no one appears to be in a hurry here? One -reason that the ladies have so much more time is because their -housekeeping cares are so much less than those of Americans. Always, all -of the laundry work is sent out, and much of the cooking of a household -is done outside: bread, pastry, cakes, and roasts are prepared in -special establishments, and sent hot and deliciously cooked to private -tables, without a suggestion of ‘bakehouse’ flavor about them. The -servants, or one of them does all the ‘planning’ and the marketing, -rendering her accounts to her mistress<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89"></a>{89}</span> weekly. Everything connected -with the domestic part of a Paris home runs very smoothly, and with much -less care and expense than in Bostonian homes. I remember once visiting -a dear, busy, neat, systematic young housekeeper at her home in a -country town in New England. One Monday morning her maid of all work -overslept, and we heard this wide-awake, orderly mistress call her, -saying, ‘Katie, get up; why, it is seven o’clock now, and to-day is -washing day, to-morrow will be ironing day, and the next day baking.’ -There are no such days in Paris! And I should think Parisians would say, -‘For which we devoutly give thanks.’</p> - -<p>The gardens of the Tuileries brought up thoughts of Eugénie, who used to -love the spot so well. The once-beautiful Empress whom the French people -followed is now never mentioned, not even a picture of her seen in Paris -windows; and once when I spoke of her to a dealer in photographs, asking -why he had not a picture of her, he answered, ‘Remember Sedan.’</p> - -<p>The long walk in the cool, crisp air made us<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90"></a>{90}</span> hungry, and seeing some -neatly prepared tables near we seated ourselves for a luncheon. The -bouillon was good, and the chop fairly so, and the charges reasonable we -thought, but when the bill was presented we were charged extra for -service, for the napkins we used, and for the chairs we sat on. I asked -the garçon why they did not charge for the air we breathed. Moral! -Always make your bargains in Paris before consummating them.</p> - -<p>The Luxembourg was near, and we spent most of the rest of the day in its -galleries. Some of the masterpieces of Rosa Bonheur, Gerome, Couture and -Meissonier are here. To see Cabanel’s Venus was of itself a great -delight. I remember seeing the portrait of Miss Wolf, in the -Metropolitan Art Museum, in New York, painted by this same Alexander -Cabanel. There are two of Henner’s pictures here, one exquisitely -lovely. He is considered one of the best living painters of the nude; -his figures are remarkably graceful and modest, poetical studies of the -flesh; and it is often an intense delight and relief to turn toward -them, from the nudes of some other artists. We have seen his works<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91"></a>{91}</span> also -in several private collections, and wherever there is a Henner there is -always a crowd, so lovely are they. One characteristic of them we -observed, namely, that in every picture of his that we have seen his -figures are not far from a lake, brook, or river, with the figure -partially hid by shrubbery and trees, and one of our trio said that he -was forcibly reminded of the old nursery rhyme,—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>Mother, may I go out to swim?’<br /></span> -<span class="i3">‘Yes, my darling daughter;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Hang your clothes on a hickory limb—<br /></span> -<span class="i3">But don’t go near the water!’<span class="lftspc">”</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>A stroll in the beautiful gardens of the Luxembourg, and a visit to the -Jardin des Plantes, with its botanical, mineralogical, and geological -museums, and a visit to the monkeys—the cutest of all -monkeys,—finished the day; and to-night we are to dine with a duchess. -How fortunate we have a ‘noble’ escort. Otherwise, although we did ‘come -over in the Mayflower,’ we might not have been called upon by, and -invited to dine with, the Duke and Duchess de la R—— at their chateau -near San Cloud.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92"></a>{92}</span></p> - -<p>Some of the customs here seem very odd to us. After a couple are -married, they go to drive about the city; the wealthier class in their -own carriages, the less wealthy in hired ones, and the poor on foot, but -all arrayed in the wedding dress, with veil and the orange flowers. We -met eight brides in one afternoon’s drive, and we have seen many others -in the different museums and galleries. The French are indeed a -pleasure-loving people. Every green spot, and they are legion, here is -bright with life. Lovely children are out in great numbers with their -dark-eyed, handsome <i>bonnes</i>. These nurses are very picturesque, with -their white-frilled turbans on, from which hang lengths of broad white -ribbon nearly to their feet. The babies themselves are generally -costumed in the richest of laces, and often look uncomfortably loaded -down with the big white hats even the tiniest of them wear, well covered -with ostrich plumes. All seem to enjoy life—the middle classes and the -poor in their own way as entirely as the rich in theirs. The parks and -numerous gardens are filled with women sitting about with work or book<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93"></a>{93}</span> -in hand, seemingly perfectly contented with their condition and -beautiful surroundings. They wander into the cathedrals and picture -galleries at will, and surely such constant familiarity with beauty and -art must have a refining influence. Of these poorer people, who have -really been taught nothing, some have more knowledge of art than many -Americans who have studied it. I, one morning, asked my chambermaid to -assist me in wrapping up a few photographs I had in my room. In doing so -she told me I ought to get Murillo’s ‘Birth of the Virgin’ and Titian’s -‘Holy Family,’ and recommended several art stores as excellent places to -select photographs and etchings. The many and great variety of -exhibitions of pictures here, offer instruction to all and are a -constant spur to one’s ambition. The Parisians should be thanked by the -people of every nation for throwing open their public institutions to -all classes to enter ‘without money and without price.’ Paris thus gives -freely to all who will accept a liberal education. The Comédie Française -and the Conservatoire of Music and Acting give free<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94"></a>{94}</span> instruction to all -who have talent sufficient to be admitted. With the French people’s love -for the beautiful, with their especial love for Paris, with their -seeming contentment of position, with their hospitality and their -never-failing politeness as we now see them, it does not seem possible -that in times of rebellion and riot they so lose themselves as to burn -and destroy that they have so dearly loved, and that they become -disloyal and unreasonable toward each other. The burning of the -Tuileries in 1871 was an exhibition of their insanity in times of -excitement.</p> - -<p>Here is my Paris edition of the <i>New York Herald</i>. I bless James Gordon -Bennett every time I take up this little paper, so grateful am I to him -for it. After struggling with French conversation, French books, French -signs, French everything, all the day, it is a delight to me to see my -own language in print, to see American news, and often to see the name -of some one I know or know of. Oh, we do not realize how dear America is -to us until we are far from her shores.</p> - -<p><i>Paris, Sunday, July 1st.</i>—And so the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95"></a>{95}</span> month dedicated to Juno is -really gone. A month filled with joys has it been to us! It does not -seem possible that it can be July. It has been so cool here,—cool and -bright, just the weather for tramps.</p> - -<p>First of all, dear, I must tell you a little of our dinner with the -Duchess last night. How I did wish you were with me, and how every hour -you are in loving thought and memory with me everywhere. I know just -what you will do to-day. But no one will ever know all the kind acts you -perform, all the sacrifices you make, save the recording angels. We gave -considerable time to our toilettes last evening, even to having a French -hairdresser. F. looked ‘smart’ in her Wörth-made pink gown, and in -French conversation did us all credit. Only two of the sixteen guests -spoke English, beside our host and hostess and ourselves. We were not -only cordially received, but affectionately. Our hostess was charming in -face and grace, and her husband not far behind. The halls, dining-rooms, -and salon of the house were immense, with polished floors, and rugs, and -the woodwork and furniture of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96"></a>{96}</span> latter in white and gold. Everything -was massive and stately, but with a cheerful, bright effect. The menu -consisted of fourteen courses, served table d’hôte. The hostess was -first helped, then the oldest lady at the table, and so on, down to the -youngest lady present. Then the gentlemen in the same manner. I should -think this custom would sometimes puzzle the waiters to know whom first -to serve. The table was decorated with flowers, and the cumbrous gold -candelabra were, with the gold service, very imposing. There was not an -article of silver on the table. Every utensil was gold, china, or glass. -It is a great error to suppose that, because Frenchwomen love dress and -pleasure, they are not devoted mothers, true wives, and intelligent -companions. Of course there are exceptions, and so there are in all -countries. Our little party of last night was unusually bright, -intelligent, and familiar with American history, her institutions, and -her literature. They thought our language the hardest of all languages -to comprehend or to speak. They referred to our many words ending with -‘gh,’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97"></a>{97}</span> and each one pronounced so entirely differently. A gentleman who -had been in New York said, if a business was to be <i>stopped</i> there they -‘wound it up,’ if clocks were to <i>go</i> they wound them up. Strings were -wound up, and he one day received a telegram from the wife of a friend -whom he expected to meet, which read thus: ‘Henry is wound up for the -day; hopes to see you to-morrow.’ Did not know whether Henry was -‘stopped’ or ‘going,’ but understood later that he was indisposed. They -asked us many questions about our own city, and one lady told me that -she read in a paper that not long ago a man was imprisoned for preaching -on Boston Common, but she supposed it was a mistake, as such a thing -could scarcely have taken place in a free country. After dinner we had -music and dancing, and bade our entertainers ‘Bon soir,’ having had a -delightful evening with them, and feeling that the nice points of the -social code, with dukes and duchesses, are not much different from our -own.</p> - -<p>Sunday in Paris is a great contrast to our New England Sunday. People go -to church,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98"></a>{98}</span> to be sure, but they go to the theatre after if they wish -to, and think it all right. It is the one great day for families to go -into the parks and the woods and the gardens near the city. The larger -shops are closed, not because it is Sunday, but because one day in the -week is demanded by the employees for rest and recreation. Theatres, -circuses, and hundreds of places of amusement are open, and are all -thronged, notwithstanding the great exodus into the suburbs. One can -hardly blame clerks and working people, who are in cages, as it were, -every other day, for taking Sunday to see the green hills, breathe the -country air, and gather flowers with their little ones, for Monday puts -them in harness again. Going to places of amusement on Sunday is not -just our way, but we are not here to criticise.</p> - -<p>After early service in the American Church we took a boat up the Seine -for St. Cloud, where have lived many kings of France. The palace where -Eugénie, in the height of her popularity, so magnificently entertained, -has never been rebuilt since its destruction in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99"></a>{99}</span> siege of 1870. We -sat on the broad, handsome steps which had led to the palace, with the -leafy avenues of the parks before us, over which the lovely Eugénie, -with her imperial husband, and the ladies of her court, clad in their -costumes of the chase, had many times cantered. Here they entertained, -at certain seasons, sovereigns, princes of the blood, ambassadors, and -‘lords and ladies of high degree,’ and everything that could be devised -or money procure was placed before them for their pleasure. Music, -games, dancing, and feasting went on—and the people paid for it. -Although there never was and never could be the slightest unfavorable -criticism upon the moral life of the Empress, her intense love of -gayety, admiration, dress, and power caused her to forget the thousands -of suffering poor so near her. Had she given more thought to them, with -a helping hand, she could so easily have made their dark days less so. -Beauty of person and power are rare gifts, but if they so dazzle as to -make dim the more divine gift of a charitable heart and hand, they are -to be undesired, and—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘It were better to be lowly born<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And range with humble lives in content.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>But the golden-haired, sweet-faced Empress, in her green riding habit, -with the flowing white plumes in her hat, rides on under the arches of -these beautiful linden trees, and is gone from our thoughts, and the -memory of a gray-haired, childless widow in Chiselhurst rises before us. -God help her! The fountains and cascades here, scintillating in the rays -of the sun this bright morning, are beautiful, and the walks about are -superb. We went to the very top of the hill, and were well repaid by the -admirable views of Paris, the Seine, and the surrounding scenery.</p> - -<p>Our long tramp made us hungry, so we turned our footsteps toward the -café at the gate. The tables inside looked very attractive, but my -comrades thought the ones outside more so, so we seated ourselves at one -in a vine-covered arbor, for dinner table d’hôte. We have got so used to -eating out-of-doors—in arbors in the country, and on pavements in -town,—that you need not be surprised if I, some Sunday morning, invite -you to baked<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> beans and brown bread on the curbstones of the Oxford, and -every bean served as a course.</p> - -<p>The town of St. Cloud is built on the slope of the hill. The streets are -very narrow, and the stores to-day are all open and well filled. -Wandering about, I was attracted by the sound of music in a -quaint-looking little church and stepped in. Upon coming out, my -companions were nowhere visible. I sat down in a conspicuous place on -some steps, to wait for them to find me. A richly dressed Frenchman -walked past me several times. I felt that I was the object of his -gaze—so looked in every direction but toward him, for here let me say -that the French are really prolonged starers, notwithstanding their -uniform courtesy and politeness. My imagination got the better of me, -and I prepared for battle, trying to think of annihilating names in -French, that I might call him should he dare address me, and looking at -the strong handle of my parasol with renewed confidence. Secondly, I -thought it might be good policy to pretend to be deaf and dumb—yes, -should he speak, I will really put my finger to my ears and my mouth -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> he will think I am a dummy, planned I. Thus, with a reinforced -feeling of safety and victory, I looked squarely up at him. Imagine my -surprise when he raised his hat, and in fair English said: ‘Pardon me, -but are you not Mrs. —— of Boston?’ It was Monsieur C——, who formerly -taught French in my family. I need not tell you that I gave him a -vigorous Yankee hand-shaking. He left America a year ago to take -possession of an inherited property. Moral: Consider every man, -everywhere, a gentleman, until you have proof that he is not. A -Frenchman never sits when a lady in his presence stands, nor does he -ever smoke or expectorate in a lady’s presence. Do the Americans? A -French lady asked me, and I had to say with humility, ‘Yes.’ After this -little incident my friends appeared, more worried about me than I about -them, and we soon took ‘top seats’ on steam-cars and were carried to -Versailles.</p> - -<p>The gardens of Versailles are superior in beauty to any others that I -have seen. I wish I could give you a good idea of them, as they appear -to me this lovely day. Beautiful trees,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> shrubs, flowers of every size, -fragrance, and color, orangeries, conservatories, palms, ferns, lakes, -vine-covered seats, shaded walks, arbors, statues, grottoes cool and -mossy, cascades, and the large fountains playing, with the Palace -beyond, and the blue sky above it all—were indeed worth seeing. Linger -longer outside we would like to, but the big, huge Palace is before us, -and we must see a little of its contents. The galleries, or rooms, are -of vast size, and are filled with paintings, sculpture, bric-a-brac, -tapestries, and articles of intense historical interest. The State -apartments, the living rooms of kings and queens, the theatre, and the -chapel, with their frescoes and paintings, are a delight to us. In a -suite of eleven rooms are pictures illustrating all the most noted -events in the history of France. A white marble statue of the Duke of -Orleans is very beautiful and remarkably graceful. We also noticed a -fine statue of Joan of Arc. The chamber of Louis XIV. is absorbingly -interesting, and is one of the gems of the Palace. The ceiling was -painted by Paul Veronese, and was brought here by Napoleon I. from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> -Venice. It represents Jupiter punishing Crime, and is of itself a day’s -study, and more. The furniture and decorations of the room are rich and -grand, said to be about as when the ‘Grand Monarque’ died in the room, -entirely against his intentions and inclinations. The bedstead upon -which he breathed his last, with the same hangings and coverlid, are -here. It is a two-story one, and we wonder how he ever got on to it with -any degree of dignity. This magnificent apartment of Louis Quatorze, -peopled with ghosts of his time, brought to us many thoughts. This -place, under his management, was made grand and beautiful, but at the -cost of crippling the treasury of France and exciting discontent amongst -her already overtaxed people, and it was not for their enjoyment, but -for his own and his satellites’. In the queen’s card room the painted -ceiling, by Le Brun, represents France, dispensing peace and abundance -<i>to all</i>. What a mockery! At this very time, while royalty at Versailles -was sipping wine from cups of gold, the hunger of the poor outside was -beginning to make them mad. The painting of the marriage<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> of Louis XIV. -with Maria Theresa, and some of the battle pieces, are fairly well done. -All that one has ever read of the greatness of Louis XIV., the evil of -Louis Quinze, and the horrors of the Revolution, comes to one’s mind at -Versailles. It seems to me that nowhere else could one so thoroughly -feel and comprehend France,—her history and her changes. We saw the -room in which Louis Quinze died alone, of small-pox, just as if he had -never been a king. We saw the narrow passage where the beautiful Marie -Antoinette went through to escape the fury of the Parisian mob, while -the brave, noble Swiss Guards were cut down like grass. We thought of -her standing on the balcony, between her innocent little ones, crying in -vain to the howling throng for mercy; and yet Louis XVI., although a -weak king, did not mean to be a bad one. F. says, her sympathy aroused -for the ill-fated family, ‘How horrid the people were!’ Yes; but let not -the name of Marie Antoinette make us forget the rights of the -long-suffering and wronged people. These rulers were living in -profligacy and luxury: the people, many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> of them, were in a starving -condition, made so by the exorbitant demands upon them by Louis. Justice -was not given them, and they took it, and the forced necessity of such -terrible work made them maniacs. We feel sorry for mistaken royalty, and -more sorry for the innocent, but let us go out into the beautiful -gardens of Versailles, and see there the multitude enjoying its -delights, instead of a few kings and queens, and be thankful. The palace -and its gems are educators for them, and the gardens a place of rest, -and may they ever thus remain. It was at Versailles that ‘good Queen -Vic’ was royally entertained by Louis Napoleon, and it was also here -that Emperor William was, later, crowned King of Prussia.</p> - -<p>A hasty visit to Great and Little Trianon ended our day at Versailles. -The first named was built by Louis XIV. for Madam de Maintenon, and -although we had about had our fill of luxury, we grew enthusiastic over -the Malachite Hall and the mosaics and bronzes we here saw. The Little -Trianon, Louis XV. gave to Madame du Barry. Here we saw the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> old state -carriages and harnesses. Madame du Barry’s carriage, in which she used -to take her airings, cost 60,000 francs, and on state occasions she -carried a bouquet of diamonds, which Louis had made for her at a cost of -300,000 francs. She had also a dressing-stand of gold studded with gems, -and two cupids held a crown of diamonds above it, so made that whenever -the owner looked into the mirror this crown was reflected as if resting -upon her own head. This is an example of the way the revenues of France -were then expended. Is it any wonder that there was a revolution?</p> - -<p>An open carriage took us to the station, and again we took our places, -on top of a steam-car, for Paris. This would be a delightful way of -riding if only the engine would be sufficiently polite to turn its smoke -in another direction than our faces. We had a fine view of the city and -its suburbs as we approached it, and with dirty faces, tired feet, and -our hands filled with French wild flowers and grasses, we reached Paris; -and the ever-convenient cab soon landed us in Clement<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> Marot. A friend -had sent us tickets for the theatre, but we decided that we would spend -the evening in the pretty drawing-room of our hostess and make it as -nearly like a Sunday evening at home as possible. One of our number -remarked how fortunate no one of our party has felt at all homesick. A -bunch arose in my throat, but I swallowed it down, and I have told no -one that often, when I think of the dear ones far away, longings for a -sight of their faces will creep in.</p> - -<p><i>Monday, July 2d.</i>—Galleries and churches are not open to visitors on -Mondays, so we planned for out-of-door sights to-day. The cheapness of -these little, open barouches make us feel able to ride at any time. I -wish I could take one home to Boston with me, cocher and all. We first -went to the Arc d’Etoile, for the second time, and ascended to the top, -for the views. It is said that the views from the Eiffel Tower, when -completed, will surpass anything gained elsewhere, but those from the -Arc d’Etoile are very grand.</p> - -<p>This huge, superb monument of Napoleon I. stands in a ‘round square’ -called the ‘Place<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> d’Etoile.’ From this street twelve beautiful avenues -lead, somewhat like spokes from the hub of a wheel. Now imagine this, -and these streets built up with elegant residences, with pretty grounds -about them, and the avenues filled with showy turnouts and merry throngs -of people, promenading on the broad sidewalks, shaded by two rows of -magnificent trees, and you get a little idea, with the picture I send -you, of the Arc de Triomphe and its surroundings. The figures you see, -which will look small on paper, are, some of them, over twenty feet -high, representing Victory, Fame, etc. When we first walked under the -arch, F. said, ‘I think this is a good deal like walking under the body -of Jumbo,’—which experience we once had.</p> - -<p>From the Arch we were driven straight down the beautiful Avenue des -Champs Elysées to the Place de la Concorde, in which square stands the -obelisk, the gift of the Pacha of Egypt. Immense bronze fountains are in -the square, and large marble statues on pedestals, representing the -country’s largest cities, around it. It is a lovely, peaceful spot, this -glorious morning, with no signs of the terrible deeds<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> that were once -enacted here. But here it was the guillotine stood and did its murderous -work. Here the rabble surged, crying for more blood. Here Charlotte -Corday, here Marie Antoinette, met death. And here heads were cut off at -the rate of forty or fifty a day; and men looked on, women sat about -with their knitting, occasionally saying, ‘Look, there goes another.’</p> - -<p>Do not dwell upon such horrors! we will go and buy some ribbons! Our -first look into the Bon Marché. What a beautiful store it is, to be -sure. The largest in the world. How the bargains tempt us! The clerks -look bright and fresh, and are remarkably well dressed and intelligent -appearing. And they have reason to be—they are all partners of this -great money-making establishment, and time, opportunities, and means -given them for study. The little articles here, fans, ornaments, toilet -articles, handkerchiefs, gloves, etc., are irresistible, so pretty and -so cheap. In one apartment, cake, cookies, bread, crackers, wine, tea -and coffee, and the very best of their kind, are served to all who come, -gratuitously. Wanamaker’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> store in Philadelphia, and Shepard & -Norwell’s, of Boston, are somewhat similar,—the first mentioned -comparing very favorably, the second not as extensive but conducted -partly on the same principle.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Bon Marché we knew we had got our money’s worth, but had -precious few coins left, so thought it a good time to see a little of -the poorer class of this rich-appearing city. So into the Latin quarter -are we driven. That sounds very intellectual and classical, but is -really the old and poorer part of Paris. Here the streets are narrow, -the men wear blue blouses, and the women look coarse and hard; -exceptions there are, certainly, but such the general appearance.</p> - -<p>Next, to Père La Chaise, the city of the dead. Much disappointed in its -appearance. Does not compare with our beautiful Forest Hills. The walks -are not well kept. Immortelles and shrivelled wreaths decorate the -graves, instead of fresh flowers. Numerous monuments are here, and some -very fine ones, but the most are costly without beauty. On the graves of -children we saw toys, dolls, wooden horses, etc.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> We saw Rachel’s -monument, and that of Abélard and Héloise, which is really beautiful. F. -said she always meant to make a pilgrimage to this spot, from pure -sympathy. We saw many names, on monuments, familiar to us from history; -but as a whole, everything is too mixed up for it to be considered a -beautiful cemetery. We saw a young girl bending over a grave in tears, -and our own fell for her. She left a wreath on the, to her, precious -earth, composed of white immortelles, with words made of the yellow -flowers embedded in the white, which read, as nearly as we could -translate, ‘To the loved man who was to have been my husband.’ That told -the sad story. We thought Victor Hugo rested here, but one of our trio -said no; at the Pantheon, he felt sure. ‘Well, he was a good and great -man enough to have had two burial places,’ said F. And so say we all of -us!</p> - -<p>We went to the Hippodrome this evening,—sort of a fashionable circus; -but not caring much for the entertainment, came out and walked about to -see a little of Paris by gaslight—and such a sight! The entire -population<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> of the city seems to be poured into the streets. Bands of -music playing in the squares; the sidewalk cafés have their tables -surrounded with ‘evening dressed’ ladies and gentlemen. There are -illuminated swings, merry-go-rounds, inclined planes, roller skating -platforms, for the children, and all seeming to be respectably -conducted. Paris is a clean city; the streets are like a well-swept -floor all the time, no dirt to be seen. Two-thirds of the families live -in apartment houses. These are better arranged than our Boston flats. -The rooms are spacious, and no dark, windowless ones, as there is always -an open court in the centre, to admit light and air, and about the -windows facing these courts are balconies, pleasant to sit out on. The -courts are cultivated, and either have shrubbery and flowers growing, or -have grassy lawns, and this is all cared for by the landlords. The rents -are much lower, also, than with us.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday, July 3d.</i>—Too quickly the days go by. The weather is so -deliciously fair and bright this morning that it is a joy to be alive. -Out into the sunshine we go, ‘not caring a sou where, if only these days -could last forever,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span>’ said F. Yes, Paris is indeed fascinating, but we -must remember that life is not all a holiday, nor would we wish it to -be. We owe to our Maker something higher in aim and in good works. We -owe to our beloved country ourselves, and the help of our acts and -purposes. When human beings are born and bred in the same air, speak the -same tongue, it is a disloyal thing to turn faces from each other. -‘United we stand,’ We heard of a party of Americans finding difficulty -in entering Germany not long ago because they had no passports, so I -thought we had better fortify ourselves with the documents. Hunted up -the abode of the American Legation. Found the apartments to resemble the -rooms of a private family, more than those of business. We were duly -questioned, measured, and pen-portraits taken of us, and after a -sufficient amount of ‘red-tape delay,’ the desired papers were in our -hands. Very likely we shall not be obliged to use them, but they serve -to tell us how tall we are, and, better still, that my nose is straight, -which I never knew before.</p> - -<p>We next went to the Pantheon, which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> something of a reproduction of -St. Peter’s at Rome, and is now devoted to receiving the remains of -great men who have merited the gratitude of France. The church was -formerly called the church of St. Geneviève, she having been the patron -saint of Paris. There are some beautiful frescoes here relating to her -life. The rich Corinthian columns, the marble groups, frescoes, and -bas-reliefs, are all an interesting study. France is represented -bestowing honors on her noted sons. On the frieze is this inscription: -‘Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante.’ There are some beautiful -frescoes here by Cabanel, which represent different scenes in the life -of St. Louis. The one where Blanche of Castile, his mother, is talking -with him is very lovely. The artist has succeeded in investing the faces -of St. Louis with much beauty and spirituality. I looked at these -paintings with great satisfaction, as I admire the results of Cabanel’s -brush always. I thought, too, not only of St. Louis, but of Louis S. S., -and wished I could see his pleasant face. I have so often called him my -St. Louis. Please tell him this when you see<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> him, and love to them all. -Yet, with all of the objects I have told you of, and many, many others, -the interior of the Pantheon has a cold, bare look. Underneath this -building are immense vaults, and Victor Hugo’s remains are here. The -coffin, covered with cloth, mounted and embroidered with silver, stands -on trestles facing the tomb of Rousseau,—although the remains of the -latter are at Geneva. A huge pyramid of immortelles is before us, that -were brought, by those who loved the great man, on the day of his -funeral. All that was mortal of him is here, but a mind that could give -‘Les Miserables’ must be working for good still, in the ‘great -somewhere.’</p> - -<p>Noticing the interest I felt in everything pertaining to Victor Hugo, a -Paris friend, with us to-day, said, ‘Let us sit down and rest near these -withered blossoms, and I will tell you a little about his funeral, which -took place just three years ago this month, and of which I was an -eye-witness.’ Although Victor Hugo was born an aristocrat, and was the -greatest poet of France, his sympathy and love for the common people, -and his strong and earnestly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> avowed republican tendencies, led him to -request in his will that he should be carried to his grave in the hearse -of the poor. And although this was done, never were such preparations -made before for the celebration and the honoring of any dead. France -claimed him as her greatest, noblest son. His body was laid in state, -under the Arch of Triumph, on a catafalque draped with black velvet -embroidered with silver, standing in a bank of flowers. Bands of crape -were draped from the top of the huge arch to the ground. Through the -day, and through the night, torches were lighted, and thousands of -people visited the spot. It was known that he said it would be his -choice to be laid without ceremony by the side of his wife, in the -little country churchyard, but the people would not have it thus; only -to the Pantheon should he be carried! But the Pantheon bore a visible -cross, indicating dedication to the Roman church. Hugo could not rest -there. His religion was of no sect. He believed in God and loved Him. He -believed in his fellow-man—loved and helped him. His creed was the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> -Golden Rule, and he lived by it. The Government ordered the cross -removed from the building, and it was done, and on June 1st, 1885, all -that was mortal of Victor Hugo—whose motto was ever ‘Fraternity, -Equality, and Liberty’—was carried there, followed by the greatest and -wisest citizens of France, her ministers, her soldiers, and her people. -We arose, laid our corsage ornament—a beautiful fleur-de-lis—by the -great man’s last resting-place, and turned away.</p> - -<p>By the way, the French love this flower, the national emblem of their -country. There is a legend about it, that runs like this: Clovis, who -was an infidel, went to battle with the Germans. He fought bravely, but -was losing ground, when he remembered his young Queen’s faith in God. He -called in his despair upon this Great Being the Christians so trusted -in, pledging himself to this God’s service forever if He would but give -him this one victory. The battle was his, and he was immediately -baptized. During the solemn ceremony an angel appeared and threw about -King Clovis an exquisite banner embroidered with the lovely<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> flowers of -the fleur-de-lis. From that time to the French Revolution the kings of -France bore the flower on their banners.</p> - -<p>From the Pantheon to the Hotel des Invalides, a comfortable home for -disabled soldiers and for aged ones, containing kitchens, dormitories, -libraries, museums, etc. We chatted with a very old soldier with but one -leg, and he said that he was much happier with that one than most men -were with two legs, so well was he there cared for. Next, to the Tomb of -Napoleon the First, and I should have known it to have been his burial -place had I opened my eyes upon it unexpectedly, anywhere, so -‘Napoleonically’ magnificent is it all, in the Church of the Invalides, -so called. Napoleon so loved Paris, that in his will he requested ‘that -his body might rest on the banks of the Seine, amongst the French people -he loved so well.’ Light for the interior of this building comes through -violet-colored glass in the immense cupola, and falls with a peculiar, -weird effect upon the sarcophagus, which seems to be of granite, and -rests upon two large blocks of different colored stone, one upon the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> -other, making a high pile. The foundation upon which this all stands is -a crown of laurels, in green marble, on a floor of black and white, and -upon which are seen the names of many of his victories. Twelve victories -are also represented by the same number of colossal statues. The crypt -containing the sarcophagus is round, and immediately under the dome, in -the exact centre, and has around it a marble railing. We went down into -this crypt, around the sarcophagus, to a chapel, where we saw the very -sword he wore at Austerlitz, the insignia he wore, the battle colors, -and the crown of gold given to him by the citizens of Cherbourg. At the -farther end is the statue of the Emperor, with the characteristic lines -of his face strongly portrayed, and it is clothed in the imperial robes. -The gallery leading to this is always lighted by bronze funeral lamps. -Other chapels, dedicated to different saints, are richly decorated, and -the remains of a number of the relatives of Napoleon rest within them. -At the entrance to the tomb, as the whole building or church is called, -are two sarcophagi, dedicated, the one to Marshal Duroc, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> other -to Marshal Bertrand, the devoted and true friends of the Emperor in his -hours of trial. Way high up in the cupola, which is, I have already told -you, right over the sarcophagus containing Napoleon’s dust, is a -beautiful picture of Jesus, in the midst of angels, looking tenderly -down. This crypt is in the centre to be sure, and yet is in front of -steps which lead to the beautiful altar. The steps are of white marble, -and the high, superb altar is of both black and white marble, with a -canopy of gold, beneath which is a figure of Christ on the cross. The -cost of this entire monument was nearly two million dollars, and is all -so rich and effective that I hope my description of it will enable you -to see it, a little, as with my eyes. The life of conquest and glory, -defeat and suffering, which this man knew is without a parallel. His -spirit left the body in obscurity and exile; that body now rests in the -costliest of mausoleums. Here in this very city he once lived in a -garret, and wandered hopelessly about seeking employment; here also he -lived in palaces, and ruled everything before him. We have seen the -Hotel de la Colonnade, Rue<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> des Capucines, where he was married to -Josephine, and it was at the Tuileries his divorce from her was -proclaimed. His ambition was indeed his ruling passion, when he could -put from him the woman who loved him, saying to her, ‘Josephine, thou -knowest I love thee; to thee alone do I owe the only moments of true -happiness that I have ever had, but my destiny overrules my will.’ Dying -on his lonely bed, on the bleak, rude heights of St. Helena, without -kith or kin to love him, what then to him were ambition, fame, or -victories, even such as his had been?</p> - -<p>We spent the rest of the day in the Cluny, an extensive old museum, -containing statues, paintings, armor, and wonderfully beautiful -tapestries, and rare antiquities of all descriptions. One exquisite and -very odd piece of pottery so interested me, being entirely different -from anything I had ever before seen, that I asked one of the near -attendants where it came from; he answered, ‘Hades.’ Fearing I did not -understand him, I asked the question for the second time, and called my -companions to interpret, but ‘Hades’ he repeated, and we could say<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> no -more. F. said it seemed well baked, and told us a story of an Englishman -who was travelling in France, and had with him a French courier, the -latter speaking English a little, but making some peculiar translations. -The English gentleman asked concerning a friend whom he knew to be -residing somewhere in France. The interpreter innocently assured him -that his friend had gone to Thunder in Burgundy. The Englishman, not -knowing of the town Tounerre, drew his own conclusions.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday, July 4th.</i>—A pleasant surprise awaited us this morning. Our -hostess, in our honor, had thrown from our balcony our own glorious -flag! Our stars and stripes! None other as beautiful in all the world -floats. It seemed a part of our own dear land, our home and friends. We -are up in the fifth story; the horses are kept in the first. The higher -up the rooms are, the more desirable are they considered here, and the -greater is the rent. We took an early drive, then spent a little time -shopping, and made our way to the monumental chapel containing the tombs -and monuments of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> called the Chapel -Expiatoire. Here is a beautiful statue of the unfortunate Queen, and one -also of her husband, on the pedestal of which is inscribed, in letters -of gold, his will, in which he commends his wife and children to his -Maker, and expresses a wish that his wife may be allowed to keep their -children, for her maternal tenderness for them he has never doubted. It -all expresses the thoughts and feelings of a good man. The remains of -the brave Swiss Guard who so faithfully defended the royal family, are -also here.</p> - -<p>A little more sight-seeing, a few social calls made, last lingering -glances at the Palais Royal and the Rue de Rivoli shops, and home to -dine. After dinner we, with the entire household, went to an out-of-door -fête, in the streets and on the sidewalks of Paris, and a grotesque, -comical, ridiculous celebration it was. Old and young were dancing in -the streets; open booths for shooting, angling, and all sorts of games -of chance were well patronized; cheap shows, theatres, concerts, -cycloramas, and panoramas, all in full blast, and Punch and Judy doing -their part vigorously; a beautiful girl,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> with a fine voice, and dressed -in white silk, thus exposed to the public gaze, was giving a concert in -the open air, and the crowd about her were really ladies and gentlemen; -every jim-crack ever manufactured was for sale in the miles of tents -temporarily erected;—and altogether it was a strange sight. I could not -have believed it possible that intelligent men and women could have -enjoyed such a conglomeration, but they seemed to. At midnight, after -walking some distance to find our cabs, we were driven to Rue Clement -Marot, through the Arch, and this grand monument looked even more grand -in the full blaze of the electric lights. To-morrow we regretfully leave -this beautiful city and our pleasant friends, who have done so much to -make our stay here a happy one. Whatever is rich, Paris is richer. -Whatever is grand, Paris is grander! Whatever is beautiful, Paris is -more so. I hope to see it all again.</p> - -<p><i>July 5th.</i>.—We left Paris at 10 <small>A.M.</small> to-day, leaving the house early -enough to step into St. Chapelle for one more look at the incomparable -rose window and the other remarkably beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> stained-glass windows of -this gorgeous church. The morning was a bright one, and as the rays of -the sun streamed in upon us, through the rich colors of the glass, and -mingled with the delicate blue tone reflected from the arched roof of -the edifice, the effect was glorious. This exquisite ceiling is thickly -dotted with gilt stars. The whole interior is decorated with gilt -diamonds, with paintings of fleur-de-lis, St. Louis’s flower between. We -went into the little chamber where the saintly King used to sit and -listen to the church services, through a window opening into the nave. -On reaching the station we found our friends waiting for us, to give us -a pleasant send-off toward Geneva.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_V" id="LETTER_V"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER V.</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> cannot be French very much longer, and must turn our tongue into -German. E. does not accompany us, so our own interpreters we shall have -to be. Our carriage contained, beside ourselves, a French gentleman and -an Italian gentleman, ‘we four, and no more.’ We sped on through villas -and villages, and fields of bright wild flowers, with but little of -interest, however, to detail.</p> - -<p>Our Italian seemed troubled in regard to an apparently new glove which -he tore badly in raising a window. After a long, disconsolate look at -it, he took from his travelling bag, needle and thread, and went -carefully at work to repair the injury, but made a bad tangle of it. As -F. had implements handy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> including a thimble, she offered to mend it -for him. He accepted graciously, and his handsome face grew luminous as -he watched his pet glove grow whole under her deft fingers. What might -he do for us? Would we drink wine with him? ‘No, thanks,’ we said. What -else he offered, to show his gratitude, we could not understand; when -out from his pocket he took a phrase-book of Italian and English words, -and pointed to the sentence, ‘Shall I sing for you?’ We gladly -acquiesced, and to our great delight he poured forth one of the -grandest, sweetest voices I ever in my life listened to. It was like -Brignoli’s in his best days. He sung the choicest airs from different -operas, and warbled, in his own musical language, tender songs. The -distinguished-looking French gentleman joined us in thanking him for -making the hours pass so delightfully—for it is a long run from Paris -to Geneva. We find fellow passengers, in this country, much more -thoughtful of the comfort of others than they are in England or America. -We also like the steam-cars here much better than our own, unless one -always rides in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> Pullman. Even many of the second class cars have high -backs and cushions, all softly upholstered. Early in the afternoon a -thunderstorm struck us, and we had heavy showers. Later the sun shone -out brightly, and set gorgeously in red. At six <small>P.M.</small> we made our first -stop, at Dijon, and had at the station a fine table d’hôte dinner, wine -included, and we did all justice, for we were as hungry as bears, not -having provided ourselves with a luncheon, thinking we should stop -somewhere for one. Remember this, all who go from Paris to Dijon. Much -refreshed, we continued our journey to Macon, where we had planned to -spend the night, but our polite and helpful Frenchman, who had all along -the road kindly given us much information of the country we came -through, assured us that if we did so we could not reach Geneva until -three <small>P.M.</small> the next day, but if we kept on to Ambrieau, and would spend -the night there, we could take an early morning train and reach Geneva -at eleven <small>A.M.</small> So this we decided to do, bidding here our kind informant -adieu, as his home is in Lyons, hoping to be able in the future to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> -accept his invitation to sometime go through his silk factory, under his -escort.</p> - -<p>We rolled into the little station at Ambrieau about ten <small>P.M.</small>, our -Italian companion keeping on to Genoa, waving his last farewell from the -car window, with a white silk handkerchief in one hand and a scarlet one -in the other. To our dismay we found it raining in torrents, intensely -dark, and not a car or carriage, nor man or beast, to be found. The only -live article around was the station-agent, to whom we hurried back, -fearing he too would disappear, which he was making hasty preparations -to do. We ascertained from him that the principal inn of the place was -more than a mile distant, and no way of reaching it at that hour of -night but to walk. Near by, he said, was a small house where he thought -we could get a room and be comfortably lodged, and assured us we should -be safe. We could do nothing but accept. He piloted us across the street -and into the front room of a house, where some men were sitting around a -table drinking beer. A pretty girl was waiting upon them, with whom our -escort had some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> words, and without giving us attention she filled a -glass with beer for him. We began to feel a little uncomfortable, and -again asked our leader if we were safe. He answered ‘Oui, oui;’ but -still stood there. All at once we thought of his expected franc, on -putting which into his hand he retreated, leaving us in the care of the -pretty maid. She took our bags, and we followed her, through a dark rear -room, then through a large bare kitchen, out into the back yard. She led -us on, through the furious rain, up two long flights of stairs, built on -the outside of the house, and on the landing unlocked a door with a huge -iron key, which door creaked and squeaked on its hinges, as if they had -not been disturbed for many a day. As getting the door open was the work -of some minutes, we were pretty thoroughly soaked by the time we stepped -into the queer-looking entry, with its stone floor and roughly plastered -walls. Out of that we went into and through a long, narrow, crooked -hall, with a shrine at the extreme end, to our room. It was a small one, -with bare floor—a single bed, one chair, and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> table with a wash-bowl -and pitcher on top, the former about as deep as a soup plate, and the -pitcher minus water and handle; but enough of the former was dripping -from our clothes to equalize conditions. We found it impossible to turn -the lock of the door, so placed what furniture the room contained -against it, feeling sure that the ‘Blessed Mother’ in the shrine outside -would keep us from all harm. We left lighted our two long candles—found -the little bed sweet and clean, and soon forgot our tribulations.</p> - -<p><i>Ambrieau, July 6th.</i>—A clear morning, and our trust not misplaced. We -are safe, and are refreshed by our night’s rest. After being served with -a bowl of black coffee and some blacker bread, for our breakfast, on a -clean wooden table, we paid our little bill of five francs, and went our -way rejoicing. At seven <small>A.M.</small> we were facing Geneva, rushing into and -through the prettiest valley of country we had ever seen. The Alps -towered up on both sides of us, and in the valley were clusters of -thatched and vine-covered cottages, with open doors, near which -contented grandmothers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span> sat knitting and watching the children playing -at their feet, while the younger women could be seen, not far away, -minding the flock of geese or the herd of sheep. I am told there is much -affection for each other exhibited in the simple homes of these -peasants: often the entire families of several generations live under -one roof in entire harmony and peace. These ‘ganders and geese’ are -wonderfully wise, if what a travelling companion told me is true. She -said that when a male child is born in these homes, the ganders form a -line, and march around the house, but when the other sex is born they -hide themselves. Poor ganders! Probably jealous.</p> - -<p>At eleven <small>A.M.</small> we reached Geneva, and found our room at the Metropole -ready for us. It is really an elegant one, spacious, and in the front of -the house, with windows to the floor, by which we can sit and look out -upon the Jardin du Lac and the beautiful blue waters of Lake Geneva, or -Leman, often called. Our early breakfast not having been a very -nourishing one, we decided to take another here before going out. A good -one it was,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> and was quickly served. While enjoying it, a lady came to -us, an American, and told us where to buy furs, where diamonds were the -cheapest, and where we could find the best places to purchase -watches—giving us her card at the same time. We were afterwards told -that a number of American ladies make quite an income from commissions -earned in this way. An open carriage was soon at hand, and from it we -took our first look at Geneva. There is nothing very remarkable about -the place, as a city. There are many hotels, and upon the quay are -numerous elegant stores, mostly jewelry stores. In some of these we saw -the beautiful enamelled watches, that are nowhere else so exquisitely -made. Watches in almost everything saw we here—in necklaces, bracelets, -canes, and umbrellas, and at all prices. We went into one of the -factories, and found that women do much of the fine work, a certain -number working only on certain parts, and therefore constant practice -makes them extremely dexterous in their specialty. They were well -dressed, and looked intelligent and contented.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span></p> - -<p>Here the lake receives the waters of the Rhone, and about midway of the -fine bridge which crosses it is Rousseau’s island, on which stands a -bronze statue of him. The upper streets of Geneva are very hilly, and -the older part is quaint and odd in its buildings, like the old French -towns. We saw the house Calvin lived in, and went into the church where -he preached his hard logic, but we could shed no tears for his departure -from this world, but might for the suffering Servetus, whom he caused to -be burned for not believing as he did. It has always seemed to me that -the stern, dogmatic Calvin showed a spirit of malice, as well as great -uncharitableness, but of course, in those days very few lived who -considered it right for one to have an opinion different from their -leaders. What a huge bonfire there would be if freethinkers were thus -treated in these days! And was it not Calvin, also, who caused the -Prince of Condé to be punished because he made himself agreeable to -ladies, and thereby injured the interests of God? That reminds us of one -club man who is always at his club when we want him for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> better -purposes. Has he a little of the spirit of Calvin?</p> - -<p>This city is full of associations of intellectual lives which bring -fragrance of good deeds, the good works of Mme. de Staël, her Father -Neckar, of Pestalozzi, Père Gérand, and many others.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we took a sail up the lake. The shores are closely -dotted with hotels, fine residences, little villages, picturesque -chalets, fronted with green, well-kept lawns, running to the water’s -edge, on the one side of the lake, while the Alps rise high and dark on -the other. We landed at Nyon, and climbed innumerable steps to see an -old castle, from which we had charming outlooks. We sailed back to -Geneva at the hour of sunset. All my life I had heard much of the -sudden, striking color changes that sunset produces on the summits of -the Alps—and we have seen them in all their great beauty. At one -instant, the terraces of mountain tops looked as if clothed in gold, and -next as if painted crimson,—and as the sun sunk lower they were left -huge dark piles, casting their shadows over us. On<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span> landing, we took a -walk, and inspected the much-heard-of monument of the Duke of Brunswick, -for the erection of which he left plans and money. Did not admire it. It -is very ‘giddy,’ but the placing of it there poured funds into the -treasury of the town. We looked at the pretty little American church -with a tender interest, for one dear to us was married within its walls. -In the evening we went to an open-air concert, and a very good one too, -in the garden in front of our hotel.</p> - -<p>Called at an office to see about getting front seats on diligence, for -our trip to Chamouni to-morrow. F. speaking French the better, did the -talking, but was assured we could have no front seats for the next day, -and we were about coming to the conclusion that we should have to take -back ones, much to our disappointment; but it is here as almost -everywhere else, if you are willing to take ‘back seats’ you may never -take front ones, and this time I was not willing. Remembering the -potency of the silver key, I resorted to that as a forlorn hope, mixed -in with my poor French, and succeeded in securing the desired places. On -our way<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> home, F. said she feared my earnestness and my not always -grammatical French might place me in as bad a position as an American -woman occupied, of whom she heard this story. She was rather proud of -her somewhat limited knowledge of the French language, and fond of -airing it. She went to secure places on a diligence for one of the Swiss -mountain trips, and approaching the conductor, demanded—</p> - -<p>‘Etes-vous les diligence?’</p> - -<p>‘Non, Madame, pardon; Je suis le conducteur.’</p> - -<p>Lady—somewhat angry at the correction—said excitedly, ‘C’est tout de -même; Je prenderai deux places dans votre interieur?’</p> - -<p><i>July 9th, 1888.</i>—Never a pleasanter morning dawned for a ride on a -diligence! Ours was a new one, painted in bright colors, and we had the -two seats between the driver and conductor. Our six strong horses wore -strings of bells about their necks, and we started off right merrily. -The road from Geneva to Chamouni is as familiar to tourists as the way -from the Oxford to Boston Common, but all do not see it alike, and you -have not seen it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> at all, so I know you will enjoy hearing of it, told -to you in my way. The road over which we rolled was simply perfect, and -the panorama in front of and about us, magnificent. We went through the -valley of the Arve, past well-cultivated farms, and little factories run -by water turning the big wheels, past pretty chalets, nestled in green, -stopping often to change horses and drivers, when the pretty Swiss -children would gather about us and entreat us to buy their nosegays of -wild flowers. There is something so pathetic in the faces of these -little ones, that we could not find it in our hearts to disappoint them, -so our decorations became as thick as those of a brigadier-general.</p> - -<p>But soon we leave these rural scenes, and strike into scenery so grand -that I fear it is beyond description. Imagine us going over the road, -with the river tumbling, foaming, along by its edge, the mountains -towering up on each side of us, some rocky, others covered with green -pines, with a sheet of mosses, lichens, and mountain blossoms at their -bases, and frequent cascades of water rushing down <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span>pell-mell from -tremendous heights, forming vast clouds of vapor long before reaching -the valley below, and sparkling in the rays of the sun like millions of -diamonds. One long, narrow waterfall, fringed with green foliage, like -orange leaves, well merited its name of ‘the bridal veil,’ so pure, -lace-like, and fleecy did it look. ‘This will be a fine day to see Mt. -Blanc,’ said our conductor, and soon the mountain chain, with every -shape of peak, including Mt. Blanc, shot up like giant commanders above -the regions of the clouds, in full view against the blue sky background, -which blue was intensified by the snow-clad tips. After leaving the -Baths of St. Gervais, a health resort approached through a beautiful -avenue of trees, and where we dined, we find the road even better than -at its beginning. These roads were built, and are taken care of, by the -Government, and there is scarcely a stone or an uneven place on them. -Every few miles we see crosses erected, some costly ones, but more of -wood simply painted, with images of the Saviour or of some saint on the -pedestals or in glass cases. Over the doors or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> windows of most of the -houses are statues or pictures of saints, for we are in Catholic -Switzerland now. Here too we are assailed by beggars, and from one house -the whole family, including the grandparents, all ragged and dirty, -besieged us for alms. What a blot is this upon beautiful Switzerland. On -this road also we first saw victims of cretinism and goitre. We met one -old beggar woman whose neck was so swollen that we could only see the -upper part of her head protruding from the swollen mass of flesh -beneath. We were told that the medical and scientific men of the country -have for years endeavored to ascertain the cause and a cure for this -loathsome disease, but have so far been unsuccessful. Many attribute it -to the use of snow water, but I should be more willing to think the use -of no water caused it, for dirtier, more repulsive-looking: mendicants I -never beheld. At about seven <small>P.M.</small> we reached the little village of -Chamouni, and alighted at our hotel without a feeling of fatigue, so -comfortable and full of delight had been our trip.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_VI" id="LETTER_VI"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER VI.</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">Chamouni</span> is a small town at the foot of the mountains, surrounded in all -directions by grand scenery, and the river Arve rushing through it, but -our impressions of the place we will give you to-morrow. We find our -hotel full of people from all over the world, and, alas, we see by the -register that some friends from Boston have just left. Why could they -not have stayed one day longer? We rush from table d’hôte into the yard -to see a party dismount from their mules after a day’s excursion in the -mountains, and a tired but jolly crowd they were. ‘This is what you have -got to do to-morrow, so pick out your thoroughbred,’ said F. I scanned -the creatures, but took no stock in them; but mules have a wise look.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span></p> - -<p><i>Chamouni, July 10th.</i>—What a day this has been in my calendar, to be -sure! Thanks be to the good Lord that I am alive to-night to tell you -about it. This early morning, before breakfast, we took a stroll about -the town, which is composed greatly of hotels, as this is everybody’s -starting point for the mountain and glacier trips of this part of -Switzerland. There are two or three churches here and some stores, and -groups of small but comfortable-looking homes, but mules -predominate—mules in the streets, mules in every yard, and mules on -every corner; in fact, the principal part of the population is mules and -the principal part of industry mule riding, at least one would so judge -from the general aspect. We met a party of gentlemen coming from Mt. -Blanc, who had made a hazardous journey, and for whom we had heard some -anxiety expressed by their friends at the hotel, but they are safe, and -we imagine the young, rosy-cheeked English maiden will now leave the -telescope, where she has stood for so much of the time since our -arrival, looking anxiously toward the ice-capped giant, hoping to see -‘Albert.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> There is probably much satisfaction to scientists in the -ascent of Mt. Blanc, but to the man ordinary one would not think it -would pay, as the results are often quite serious, even if one does get -through with whole limbs—the skin generally peels from one’s face and -the eyesight is often badly affected.</p> - -<p>We stepped into the church for a blessing and back to our hotel, the -D’Angleterre, for breakfast, with an appetite ready to devour anything. -The table is excellent, and such butter! so sweet and fresh, that one -eats an extra roll for the sake of the butter with it. Here we met some -friends from America, who are to join us on our trip to the Mer de -Glace. ‘But I do not wish to ride a mule; can I not be carried in a -chair?’ ‘No, no,’ said the crowd, ‘here they come, mules and guides.’ -‘Come now, let us get started; you may have the first choice,’ said F. -‘Six mules and three guides. And is that what you engaged? I must have -the whole attention of one guide.’ I opened conversation thus with the -oldest man, who seemed used to being questioned: ‘Which is the easiest -trotter?’ ‘Not much difference, all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> easy.’ ‘These saddles look hard,’ -said I. ‘The softest in Chamouni.’ I walked around one mule, and he, -eying me, brayed in disapproval, but by this time the rest of the party -had mounted the other five, and I was helped to the saddle of this sixth -one, wondering how my one hundred and thirty pounds avoirdupois looked -at mule-back elevation, not daring yet to think how a back not made of -iron might stand the ordeal. After a good deal of merriment in getting -started, out of the yard we filed, a gay party, two ladies and three -gentlemen, all thinking it delightful but myself. For a while muley was -very demure, and the fearless riders kindly gave to me the most -experienced guide, so we led the string. The zigzag path as we ascended -the mountain, however, grew narrower and steeper, with now a big stone -in the way, and next a slippery hole made by running water, and my beast -gave me terrible shakings as if he would rather ‘go it alone.’ The young -people in the rear were enjoying the scenery, and I could hear their gay -voices and exclamations of delight, but I did not think it such a good -time, for I had to give<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> my entire attention to keeping on my saddle, -such bumps into the air that mule did give me. My guide said he was -young and playful, and there was no danger, which quite reassured me, -notwithstanding he endeavored to whirl about very often, as if he had -been stung, or had hit his crazy bone, or stepped on an electric wire. -F. cries out, ‘Do not be frightened; you will get used to it.’ But when -the creature suddenly jumped from the hand of the guide, a yard or two -down the embankment, with the yawning precipice below, to eat a bunch of -green grass he had spied, almost throwing the guide down, and I keeping -on only by holding on to his neck with both arms for dear life, I -concluded I would not wait to get used to it, and dismounted, feeling -that ‘shanks mare’ was a safer medium of locomotion than a Chamouni -mule. The creature knew well that he had scored a victory, shook his -long ears satisfactorily, winked considerably and wisely, and walked -along contentedly. And so did I. We saw many wild goats and one chamois, -only that was in a little house and for the sight of it we had to pay. -We met a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> number of pedestrians with their alpine sticks, and I gathered -large bunches of lovely, bright-red flowers, called the mountain rose, -somewhat like our rhododendron.</p> - -<p>It took us about three hours to reach the summit where the Mer de Glace, -the great sea of ice, came in sight. The glacier extends for about -twelve miles, and at this spot is about two miles wide, a solid mass of -ice with enormous cracks and crevices, with tall ramparts, turrets, and -towers of ice, all glistening in the sunshine like crystal, -scintillating with gorgeous colors. From the hotel piazza, which hotel, -a new one, stands on the plateau above the gorge, the effect is -dazzlingly grand. At the hotel we were provided with strong alpine -sticks, with socks and shoes, for walking on the ice, and with fresh -guides commenced our journey across. It was difficult getting along -sometimes, but the beauty, strangeness, and fearfulness of it all more -than repaid us for the physical exertion. We were on the ice, with -frozen mountains and spires all about us. Many of the columns and -pinnacles and huge pieces of ice looked like crystal cathedrals and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span> -palaces. In other places it appeared as if huge sea waves had been -instantaneously frozen. A grotto had been naturally formed, into which -four of us stepped. Deep crevasses, hundreds of feet deep, met us, some -narrow enough to leap over, and others we passed over on little ice -bridges our guides made for us. Midway we halted, looking about us, lost -in wonder and amazement, when suddenly we were brought back to everyday -life by a photographer, with his camera, suddenly appearing before us -asking in plain English if we would have our pictures taken. Where the -man came from we did not see, nor where he went we cared not, for we did -not choose to be served up on ice that day. We crossed safely and -recrossed at a different place, where the ice scenery varied as much as -mountain scenery does from various outlooks, and we felt that never in -our lives before had we seen anything so magnificent. As I was ascending -the jagged points of the cliff to step on land, something fluttered like -a feather before my eyes; but I soon saw that it was a butterfly; my -guide caught it for me, and I had, as my trophy, a pure-white butterfly. -My<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span> guide, an intelligent fellow, said he occasionally saw gray ones, -but had never before seen a pure-white one there. A few yards from this -sea of ice vegetation flourishes, and almost at its very edge I found a -cluster of little blossoms resembling our ‘forget-me-not,’ only white -instead of blue. They grew very close together, and none others of their -kind were to be seen, and they looked as though they realized that they -had been left out in the cold, far from home, and tried to comfort each -other.</p> - -<p>At the hotel we had a poor dinner, for which we paid a big price, but -the magnificent views we here had from the house piazzas made up for it. -Clouds began to thicken and we made hasty preparations for our descent. -I exchanged mules, and the last one proved less frisky, but our going -down the mountain seemed more hazardous than going up. Pretty Miss M., -of Nashville, Tennessee, with her bright golden hair streaming over her -blue cloth dress, led the van on my former steed, who, apparently -feeling proud of his lighter burden, behaved very well, but we had not -gone far when the rain poured as only it can<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span> pour in these mountains. -We were all provided with umbrellas, but I had to use my hands to hold -on to the pommel of my saddle, for my mule’s hind feet were higher than -his front ones, and I preferred getting wet to being dismounted. A boy -had trotted up the mountain with us, and kept near us on our way down, -so I gave him my umbrella, as it was impossible for me to use it, to -protect himself. (More of that umbrella later.) As we neared the valley -it ceased raining, the clouds broke, and for a little while the sun -shone brightly and sank slowly in the west just as we entered our hotel -yard, the young people exclaiming to those who came out to greet us, ‘We -have had a charming time,’ but I, with every article of clothing -thoroughly soaked, and my body feeling as if I had been under a -thrashing machine, parted with mule society most willingly.</p> - -<p>Of our guides let me here say, in case you come this way some time, they -were all careful, polite, and attentive to us, and from mine, although -he could not speak one word of English, I gained considerable -information in regard to Chamouni guides. They are formed into a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> -society and are employed in rotation, sometimes showing sufficient -gallantry, however, to allow ladies travelling without gentlemen to -choose their guides, if for any reason they have a preference. These -men, before they can be accepted by the club, must be familiar with the -mountains and the glaciers and must be proven to be honest and reliable. -My guide was evidently a man of observation, and told me the guides all -liked Americans, they seemed to enjoy everything so much. ‘The American -ladies look happy; the English ladies are sad,’ he said, probably -meaning that they were not as enthusiastic, for the people of every -country like to have its wonders appreciated. With aching limbs I -retired early, and F. thought manipulation, with a little hot water and -whiskey, might ward off a severe cold, and I submitted to the treatment, -while the others, not a bit used up, went off for an evening’s ramble. I -think they must have been brought up on mules.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday, July 11th.</i>—When we went to pay our bill this morning we -found amongst the items charged, ‘eight glasses of whiskey.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> ‘What does -this mean?’ ‘Means that Madame has had eight glasses of whiskey.’ ‘There -is some mistake; the only whiskey we have had was about half a gill, and -probably not that, brought up to me in a wine-glass last night.’ ‘No, -Madame, no mistake; we are very particular.’ ‘Do I look like a woman -that has had eight glasses of whiskey? Take that off my bill, that I may -pay what I owe you,’ said I, and I immediately counted out the amount, -including one gill of whiskey. All of this in French, which I could not -talk fast enough to show him the depth of my anger. F. was getting -alarmed, and whispered, ‘Don’t mind; do pay it.’ ‘No, I will not pay one -sou of it, for we do not owe it,’ and the clerk, seeing that I was -determined, accepted what I gave him and receipted the bill. Now if that -man was honest, he thinks we have defrauded him; if not honest, he will -conclude American ladies are business-like at least.</p> - -<p>After this scene we were about ready to jog along, our carriage in the -yard waiting for us, to which I went to deposit some wraps, when my boy -of yesterday made his appearance, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> said, ‘I want my pay for carrying -your umbrella.’ I looked at him with the stare of a maniac! ‘Pay! why, I -loaned it to you, to keep you dry.’ I was in no mood to be imposed upon; -but the boy began to cry, so I gave him a penny or two, and wondered -what would be the next demand.</p> - -<p>The carriage which was to take us to Martigny was like a buggy with the -top tipped back, and a comfortable seat for us two and a short seat -front of us for our driver. Two good horses and a bright morning. Our -tickets had been purchased for this trip ‘half way by mule,’ but by -losing something, I was enabled to exchange them. No more mule riding -for me! We were told by friends that if others were going over the same -route, by joining forces and hiring a two-seated vehicle, expenses for -all would be much less. We spoke of this at the hotel office the day -before, twice, but were each time assured that there was no one else -going, and consequently our day’s trip was a costly one. At nine <small>A.M.</small> we -bade our friends, who were going on to Geneva, adieu, and saw the last -of Chamouni.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span></p> - -<p>The Swiss are considered an honest people, but they either show great -carelessness or we have several times been cheated. At the Baths of St. -Gervais, upon paying for our dinner, they did not return to us enough -change; we both knew they did not, and yet the man who took the money -declared they did, and as we had not time to contend the case, we let it -go. To be sure, there is some dishonesty everywhere, and some honesty -that is a little hard to understand. The whiskey case might have been of -that class; something like the bills of some American dressmakers, who, -after charging for every possible thing that could be used in making a -dress, modestly put at the end of the long list: ‘Findings, one dollar.’ -I have never been able to find out the definition of that word -‘findings.’</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_VII" id="LETTER_VII"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER VII.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Martigny.</span><br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> ride of thirty miles has been delightful. There is no railroad, of -course, from Chamouni to this place. We passed many pedestrians of both -sexes, with their bags and waterproofs strapped across their backs, -following in a line like a row of ants, apparently having a jolly time -seeing Switzerland on foot; also passed parties on mules. The scenery -was glorious all the way. We looked back to take our last view of Mt. -Blanc and the Mt. Blanc range and the lovely valley below. Our road was -good, but in some places so narrow, and the ravines so deep on the one -side and the mountains so high on the other, that it gave us a little -anxiety; but our driver was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> very cautious, and soon inspired us with -confidence. Up and down we went, constantly seeing new and wonderful -views—deep gorges, waterfalls, and the green-clad mountains; and at -last, through a tunnel cut through a solid rocky point of the mountain -that blocked the road, we came to Tête Noire, where we stopped to -refresh man and beast.</p> - -<p>Upon going in to dinner we were surprised to see there two ladies whom -we met at Chamouni the day before, and who were travelling alone like -ourselves. They told us they left at eight o’clock, after being assured -that no others at the hotel desired to come with them, as far as was -known; so they had a carriage to themselves as we did, when we should -all have been glad to have made the trip together. Was that a mistake -also? After dinner we continued our journey, with four other carriage -loads in our train, which made the trip seem very social and jolly. We -passed through a beautiful forest, and then into an opening past houses -far apart, pasture lands, and fields of pretty wild flowers. Here we saw -pansies growing wild in great profusion, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> the lovely pink, and -crimson yarrow. In our descent of the Col de Forclag we had a fine viem -of the Rhone valley, and at about six <small>P.M.</small> reached Martigny. Switzerland -is indeed mighty; and its great mountains, its lakes and valleys, make -us cry out, in truth, ‘Great is Thy firmament, O Lord, and wonderful the -works of Thy hand!’ Martigny is a small village in the valley, where we -are to spend the night.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday, July 12th, 1888.</i>—We can see, in the distance, St. Bernard -covered with snow, and would like to see the celebrated hospice, the -self-sacrificing brothers and their noble dogs, but shall not take the -time this season, but hope to, some time. Of the two great gifts, memory -and hope, I know not which gives us the most satisfaction. There is but -little of interest at Martigny—a good place to rest; and feeling -entirely refreshed we left at nine <small>A.M.</small> for Interlaken in steam-cars, -which seem quite a novelty to us now. I think I was rather glad to get -out of the mountain region for a little while: one’s eyes grow weary -with the looking up and the looking<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> down, and the mind tired in the -appreciating of so much sublimity at once. The country we came over was -charming; fields of wild flowers of every color looking as if arranged -by an artistic hand, and the hillsides covered with vineyards. Our road, -for a long distance, kept near Lake Geneva; the water looked as deeply -blue as a sapphire, and the sail-boats and steamers passing each other -made a pleasing scene.</p> - -<p>At Chillon we stopped to see the ‘Castle of Chillon.’ It is a -picturesque old building, with turrets and towers, standing on a point -of rock that extends out into the lake. The ring of iron to which -Bonnivard was chained is still there; and the path which his feet wore -in the stone floor, in the weary, solitary six years’ march back and -forth over those few stones, is plainly visible.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And thy sad floor an altar, for ’twas trod,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Until his very steps have left a trace<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">By Bonnivard! May none those marks efface;<br /></span> -<span class="i3">For they appeal from tyranny to God.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span></p> - -<p>It would be almost impossible for one to keep from quoting Byron’s lines -here, for everything we see brings them to mind, and on one of the -pillars is his name, cut by his own hand. To look at the dungeons and -cells makes one’s blood run cold, and even worse is the deep, deep hole -down which prisoners, untried, were thrown to fall upon pointed iron -stakes. And while these terrible horrors were being perpetrated below, -above it all, Duke Victor Amadeus and his Duchess ate, slept, and -enjoyed themselves. Could they have been human? We saw many implements -of torture, which made our heads swim with pain even to look at them, -and be told for what they had been used, and we gladly turned our backs -upon it all and walked out into God’s sunshine, thanking Him, as never -before, that we live in an age when such things are kept only as ancient -curiosities. This portion of ‘clear, placid Leman’ and the country -around it bring forcibly to mind many portions of Childe Harold’s -pilgrimage.</p> - -<p>Our next stopping place was at Lausanne, and at the station we met some -Boston friends,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> seeing them just long enough for an affectionate -greeting and to say good-by, every one of us</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘All kind o’ smily round the lips,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">An’ teary round the lashes,’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">for home faces are sweet to look upon, and our own language sweet to -hear, in this far-away land. Here we changed cars for Berne, and of all -the queer-looking towns, this is the queerest. Having but a few hours -here, we are inclined to give the most of it to the bears. The city’s -coat of arms is a bear, and pictures, carvings of, and stuffed bears -meet one’s gaze everywhere, on clocks, fountains, towers, houses, and -public buildings; and at a restaurant where we called for ice cream -Bruin’s figure was served to us in chocolate. There is also a den -containing about twenty live bears, who are sacredly cared for by the -city government, and they walk about and climb poles with more dignity -than common bears, as if fully realizing that they are ‘monarchs of all -they survey.’ We were driven through the principal streets and thought -the homes of the people looked very comfortable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> with the outside -balconies at the windows, and the red-covered cushions on them, as if -inviting travellers to stop and rest. It happened to be cheese market -day; and in the middle of a square were long tables covered with piles -of cheese, of all shapes and colors, enough to provide the citizens of -the whole world, for the rest of their lives, ‘cheese for their -doughnuts.’ But the odor! It was not to us ‘of Araby blest.’ There is a -great deal of beautiful carved woodwork here, and how we want to buy -everything odd and pretty, but oh, those ‘duties’ to come. We went into -the cathedral, which is a handsome one, and walked on its terrace, from -which we had a fine view of the river Aar and distant mountain peaks. We -then hastened to the old clock tower, to be there at just the time to -hear and see the curious old clock strike the hour of six. A cock steps -out and flaps his wings, an ogre eats a child, and has his pockets full -of children in reserve to be similarly disposed of, a troop of bears -march across the tower, and a man strikes the number of the hour on a -big bell with a hammer. These, you understand, are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> all statues carved -of wood, and move correctly every hour. A bearded man also turns an -hourglass and counts the number of the hour by raising a sceptre and -opening his mouth as if speaking. One needs to look very closely to see -all the movements, and the whole is wonderfully ingenious, and it is -indeed an ‘old clock,’ as it was built in the year 1191.</p> - -<p>After leaving Berne, we changed cars twice before reaching the lake. I -cannot understand why the railroad officials of Switzerland do not -arrange matters to dispense with so much changing from one car to -another, and also to shorten the delays, unless they are desirous of -accommodating the women they employ, in giving them ample time to finish -whatever they may be doing ere they blow that horn, which sounded like a -‘Swampscott fish horn,’ and which at several stations has seemed to be -the order for us to move. At one station I saw a woman come through a -gate with a horn or trumpet, or whatever it may be called, and partly -raise it to her mouth as if to sound the signal for us to start, but -suddenly, seeing a dog scratching up the earth in her<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> garden, ran and -beat the dog first, then returned and tooted loudly, and off we started. -A short sail on Lake Thun, which seemed weird and lonely, as it was by -this time quite dark, another car ride, and we see the lights of -Interlaken, which speak to us of rest, for we are weary.</p> - -<p><i>Interlaken, July 14th.</i>—This is cheerful. Everything at our hotel, the -Victoria, looked delightfully pleasant to us this morning as we tripped -down stairs as good as new. ‘What a pretty front yard, and do see all of -these huge hotels in a row; do you suppose they are all full?’ said F. -Well, Interlaken does seem to have hotels enough to take in all the -tourists of the world, but they are all well filled at this season. The -shops are attractive, and the pretty girls in them, dressed in their -native costumes, are very polite and seem perfectly willing to show -their wares without urging one to buy. But the beautiful embroideries -are temptation enough for one to spend money, without any words. We saw -in every shop handkerchiefs more beautiful than in the last we entered, -although we declared those there,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> when we looked at them, were the -loveliest that could be made. And the exquisite embroidered soft white -laces almost make one want to be a bride to wear them. Girls and women -are sitting in the stores, on the steps, in their door yards, and in the -parks, all busy embroidering. We have a good view of the Jungfrau from -our hotel piazza. We have taken long walks in and about the town, and -very pleasant ones. We wandered into a church and found that one half of -the building was used by the Presbyterians and the other half by the -Catholics. We were pleased to meet some friends from Boston here, who -added much to the pleasure of our stay.</p> - -<p><i>July 16th.</i>—F. has been with Mr. F., one of our home friends, over the -Wengern Alp to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen to see the glaciers and the -ice-caves. I declined, not caring for another mule ride. They report -having had a fine time, repaid fully by the sights they enjoyed, and -rode horses instead of mules,—and horses do have some consideration for -their riders. Evenings we have had ‘hops’ at our hotel and fine music, -and after table<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span> d’hôte are always entertained by the orchestrian and -the bright-looking little wooden man that wields the baton.</p> - -<p><i>Lucerne, July 17th.</i>—A short ride from Interlaken this morning early -brought us to Lake Brienz, which we sailed across, stopping for a short -time at Giessbach to see the falls, which are formed from numerous -cascades. Their reputation is the greater part of them. We left the -steamer at Brienz and took steam cars to travel over the Brunig Pass. -Until this summer, travellers have been obliged to make this journey by -carriage or mules. The new railroad is narrow, and the sides of the -little cars are of glass, so that the scenery all about us can be easily -seen. We crept cautiously, slowly along, up the zigzag road, higher and -higher, through jagged rocks and under them, clasping each other’s hands -and almost holding our breath, so fearfully grand did it all seem. The -lovely Meiringen valley below, lying peacefully dotted with pretty -villages and protected by high mountains on each side, seemed very far -from us, and the river running through its centre looked like yards of -silver<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> ribbon unfurled to beautify some one’s bridal day. But when the -descent is safely made we almost want to go back again, it was all so -beautiful. The last two hours of our day’s travel was on Lake Lucerne, -the loveliest bit of water in all Europe. A tall, gaunt, -masculine-looking German woman happened to sit near us on the boat, and -seemed to look upon us as ‘curiosities,’ and to feel it her duty on her -native soil to give us some information. This woman had been all day at -work in the mountains, but at what we could not understand. Coarse and -repulsive-looking as she was, she had a good bit of the poetic -temperament in her nature, and knew every mountain peak and bit of -scenery in sight and the traditions connected with them. The peasant -women of Switzerland, owing to their toilsome lives, wear a look of -anxiety and hardness in their faces that a woman’s face ought never to -have. And yet there is no country in the world, excepting our own, where -women have done so much for the progression, education, and good of -their sex. In Protestant Switzerland there is but little begging; in -Catholic Switzerland beggars<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> waylay you at every turn. It was nearly -sundown when we crossed the lake, and Mt. Pilatus showed off well and -did not disappoint us. The old German woman assured us that Pontius -Pilate fled there from Jerusalem, heart-broken, and ended his life by -throwing himself into the lake: ‘See, right in that spot,’ she said, ‘he -threw himself!’ Then as if reflecting, added, ‘But Pilate did what -was—what he had to do.’ All this she spoke in German, and I have given -you the literal translation. Who shall say that woman was not a -philosopher? Pointing in another direction she said, ‘That is where -Kriss Kringle was born. Does he come down the chimneys in America? It is -well for children to know him.’ And this woman of sentiment and feeling -worked daily out of doors. The scenery from Lake Lucerne is indeed -beautiful and is full of glorious associations, for it was about here -that the struggle was made for the liberty and freedom of Switzerland -and her people. The mountains all about us, the stately chateaux, the -pretty chalets, old watch towers, castle ruins, and the green foliage -about them, the beautiful lake,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> and the steamers going and coming, make -a peaceful, restful scene. The sun sinks almost out of sight, and all at -once, as a surprise, we turn, and are at the city of Lucerne.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_VIII" id="LETTER_VIII"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER VIII.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Lucerne</span>, <i>July 18th, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">In</span> going to the breakfast-room this morning I saw, in a pantry we -passed, some real cucumbers, green and fresh looking, as if they had -just been picked in a garden I am thinking of, not a hundred miles from -Boston. My mouth fairly watered for a few crisp slices. I had a -conversation with my table waiter about them, who thought it might be -possible to get some for me. I waited patiently with refreshing -anticipations, but when they came their crispness had departed: they -were soaked in oil. I longed to go into that kitchen and teach the cook -how to serve cucumbers. But making the most of the hard bread, which I -very much dislike, and it is the same all over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> the Continent—crust an -inch thick, and the passable beefsteak and poor coffee, we got through -our morning meal. We soon forgot our disappointment at breakfast in the -delight of getting letters. Oh how glad to read them, and no bad news. -Now we can go out sight-seeing, stronger and happier than ever.</p> - -<p>Lucerne is beautifully situated on both banks of the river Reuss, with -the lake in front, and has many attractions, I think. The lake, this -clear morning, looked so luring that the first thing we enjoyed was a -sail to Fluellen, where we took carriage for Altorf, the village made -classic forever by the heroic deeds of William Tell. The spots of ground -where his son was placed and where Tell stood when he shot the apple -from the boy’s head were shown us. In our school days, Tell was ever one -of our favorite patriots, and we fear we always felt glad of that hidden -second arrow, which was to have shot the tyrant Gessler if the first had -killed his boy. On our return to Lucerne we saw the old castle of -Hapsburg, once the summer home of Wagner. The king of the sights of the -town is, however, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> Lion of Lucerne. This piece of sculpture is, as -everybody knows, a monument to the brave Swiss guards of whom we thought -so much about at Versailles. The beast is twenty-eight feet long, -magnificent in proportions, and cut out in relief on the face of the -natural rock. He is wounded by a spear, and dying, but making a -desperate struggle, even in death, to protect the shield of France. -There is a pathetic expression in the expiring creature’s face that is -almost human. Ivy and running vines cover the sides of much of the huge -rock about him, and at its foot is a pond of clear water in which the -whole is reflected. The lion was designed by Thorwaldsen, the noted -Danish sculptor, who was born in Copenhagen, and whose Reliefs of the -Seasons, and his Day and Night, are familiar to you from the -photographs. ‘We cannot let our eagle scream here, F.,’ said I; -‘Cogswell fountains do not equal this.’</p> - -<p>We went into the Glacier Garden and saw the bas-relief of Central -Switzerland, modelled from nature by General Pfyffer one hundred and -forty years ago; and were then driven to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> the old cathedral, where there -is a fine organ handled by a noted organist every evening. It is quite -the fashion for visitors in the place to flock there to hear the music -after dinner; but we, not liking the rooms given us at our hotel, ‘The -Swan,’ although undoubtedly they did for us the best they could, and as -we could not get into the Schweizerhof at all, the best hotel in the -place, have decided to leave this afternoon. Our last act of -sight-seeing was the old covered bridge, in which there are over a -hundred pictures, scenes of Switzerland’s history and pictures of -saints, although some of them did not look very saintly. There are four -bridges across the river,—two modern, and the other two very ancient -and curious.</p> - -<p>Went to Vitzman by boat, then took front seats on a platform car to -ascend the Rigi. Only one car is sent up at a time, and that is driven -by steam power. The railway seems to be the same as any narrow-gauge -road, but between the outside rails are two other rails quite near each -other, in which a cogwheel, which is under the engine, runs or works. We -ascend slowly, leaving the lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span> and the towns far below us, and beyond -and above us are the mountain peaks. We go through a tunnel and across a -deep yawning ravine on an iron bridge; and the scenery is beautiful all -around us, which we can fully enjoy at our ease, as there are no -dangerous places and no frisky mules to distract one’s attention. We -pass many tourists, but the path must appear almost endless to them, for -it seems to us, even at our speed, that the top of the mountain grows -farther away. But at last we reach our hotel, the Rigi Kulm, above the -clouds. Would we could always rise above them so delightfully! It was -very cold, so we put on all the wraps we had, and started out for views -from the Rigi. Just imagine yourself on the very top of this high -mountain, which juts up towards the heavens like a ‘popover’ in a hot -oven. In the valley below we can count eight lakes, and the many towns -so far below us look like the little wooden villages made of blocks for -children to play with. Looking beyond in all directions, we see -mountains towering up to the sky—Rocky Pilatus, the snow-clad range of -the Bernese Alps, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> the green Rigi group close about us. We see the -rugged heights of the Silberhorn, the three peaks of the Wetterhorn, -and, grandest of all, the Finsteraarhorn. What a personal interest we -have in these peaks of Switzerland as soon as we know them.</p> - -<p>The mountain was covered with travellers, like ourselves, enjoying the -views and anticipating a gorgeous sunset, as there was scarcely a cloud -to be seen. I sat on the grass near the edge of the mountain wondering -at the extent of this magnificent panorama, when I felt a weight on my -shoulder; turning quickly a cow raised her head from the resting place -she had chosen and looked at me in a way that said, ‘Why did you move?’ -A little later we met Mr. W., of New York, and his handsome German -doctor, who added greatly to our pleasure during the rest of our stay -here. Seeing a boy with some freshly picked wild flowers, and an -edelweiss among them, I asked where he found it, and wandered off in the -direction indicated, anxious to pick for myself one of these blossoms. -We had bought them fresh, we had bought them dried, and the semblance -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> them in all sorts of ornaments, but not one had I seen growing. I -clambered down the steep and rocky path, and was rewarded after a long -search by finding two of these flowers which the Swiss love so well, and -I victoriously exhibited them to my friends as I met them coming in -search of me. We grouped ourselves on a high platform, built on the -summit, which was already well crowded, to see the sun go down. But why -do we get up here? we were high enough before. Because it is the thing -to do, and here is glass of every color to look through. But I only wish -to see it all in its natural colors. How the wind blows, and how cold it -is! There goes the Doctor’s hat. No use to try to recover it; it is -dashing on to see where the sun goes to. Put this wrap over your head, -Doctor.</p> - -<p>Look, look! The great ball of fire was sinking to the edge of the -horizon, which was streaked gorgeously with crimson and gold. Golden -tints fell far and near, upon valley, lakes, and mountains, and the -white robes of the snow-clad peaks, were changed to rose. All voices -were hushed, for a spectacle so sublime<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> awakened in every one emotions -too deep for words. Lower and lower, until only a great gold shield -remained, and soon all light was gone, and the shadows covered us. -‘These are Thy works also, O God, for Thou didst make the heavens and -the earth.’</p> - -<p>Stiff with cold, we hurried to our hotel, whose lights twinkled -cheerfully for us in the distance, and a good dinner, with warm drinks, -soon thawed us into a comfortable condition. After dinner we tried to -find a room heated sufficiently for us to remain in and not freeze, but -there was none. Large, handsome parlors and corridors, but all as cold -as ice-caves. The proprietors of this house make a great mistake in not -providing fires for the comfort of their guests; and for the very lack -of this necessity to one’s health, we decided to leave as early as -possible in the morning. After a brisk promenade through the hall with -our friends, we bade them good-night, promising to rise at the sound of -the alpine horn and meet them in the parlor, to go out and see the -rising of the sun, which they assured us would be far more wonderful -than its setting. ‘Now<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> you will be sure to be on hand,’ said Mr. W. ‘I -would not have you miss it for anything. I have a fur coat here which I -will unpack to put about you; you will have to rise at three o’clock, -you know.’ ‘O yes, I will surely be ready. We have come far to see the -sun rise on the Rigi, and I must not miss it. Good-night,’ and off we go -to our room at the very top of the house. Just hear the wind roar.</p> - -<p>Our chamber was cold, our chambermaid colder, and upon our asking her -for more bed covering she undoubtedly reached the freezing-point -somewhere, for she disappeared and we saw her not again. After prolonged -and vigorous ringings of our bell, a petrified-looking boy appeared, but -he manifested some signs of life as our money touched his palm, and we -succeeded in coaxing him to bring us an extra feather bed. That bed was -warm, and as our own was cold and clammy, I felt pretty sure the boy -gave us his own bed. But I was grateful, and he was satisfied with the -bargain.</p> - -<p>‘Get up, and dress as soon as you can,’ said F., holding a ghostly -candle in front of my face. ‘Up! why I had just got to sleep.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> ‘The -alpine horn has sounded, and you must see the sun rise.’ ‘No, I am just -beginning to get warm; what does it rise at this unheard-of time for?’ -‘There, Mr. W. is calling us outside our door; do come, hurry.’ ‘No!’ -The horn tooted most unmusically. I was too tired and sleepy, with a bad -cold thrown in, to care whether the sun ever rose or not. I had had too -hard work to get a comfortable resting place, to have no benefit from -it, so off F. went, and I knew no more until seven o’clock, when she -exasperatingly informed me of what a delightful time they had, that the -sun setting was not to be compared in glory to its rising, that it was a -wonderful revelation, and that I had persistently refused to enjoy it. O -dear! why will people always tell you that the sights you do not see are -those the best worth seeing.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday, July 19th, 1888.</i>—Although we ordered our breakfast last -night, it was not ready for us when we went to the dining-room. ‘Very -sorry, some mistake,’ said the waiter; but that did not give us our -breakfast, and it was nearly time for the car to leave. We choked down -some cold bread and half-made<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> coffee, and rushed, meeting a waiter just -bringing our hot rolls and chops, which we had paid for when we settled -our bill the night before. I took out a clean napkin from my bag, and -took from him our breakfast, wrapped it in my napkin, and said -good-morning to the half-dazed man, who ejaculated just one word, which -sounded like ‘whew.’ Our friends were at the car to see us off, and -tried to exchange their tickets for some that would take them our route, -but could not, so good-bys were said, and off we pushed to descend the -Rigi. We have been unusually fortunate in having such perfect weather -for this mountain trip. This morning is lovely. We move cautiously down -a road, on the opposite side from the one we went up, so all views are -new to us. We soon reached Lake Zug. Our car conductor gracefully -saluted us as we left his care to take the boat. These Swiss conductors -have a pretty custom of always saluting each other when they meet, also.</p> - -<p>We crossed the lake to the city of Zug. Had two hours to wait there, so -walked about the queer little town. Wandered into a church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span> where were -several good pictures. On our way back to the station we stepped into a -neat-looking wayside inn and called for a bottle of wine to go with our -Rigi spoils for a luncheon. The proprietress and her fair daughter -seemed much interested in us. We spread out our luncheon on a clean -tablecloth, were served with delicious butter and honey, and enjoyed it -at our leisure. With the curiosity of the sex, these women wondered who -and what we were. Our dress was strange to them, and our language -stranger. We told them we were from America, and were travelling to see -their country. ‘Wo ist der Herr,’ asked the woman. ‘We have none,’ we -answered. ‘Mein Gott!’ said she. We hear no more French spoken now; all -German.</p> - -<p>Our next stopping place was Zurich, where we had a good table d’hôte -dinner, and then pushed on to Schaffhausen, where we alight for the -Falls of the Rhine, and ride in a carriage about two miles to our hotel, -‘The Schweizerhoff.’ This house, with all its appointments, is the best -we have yet seen in all Europe. It is situated in the midst of -beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> grounds, on the bank of the Rhine, with the falls in full -sight. Our room was not only comfortable, but approached elegance, and -the long windows opened on to a veranda where stood two large, soft -easy-chairs, as if waiting to welcome us, and give us the best pictures -of the country about. Making a hasty toilette, we went down stairs and -out on to the piazza, where sat at their ease a distinguished-appearing -company to see the falls, which our guidebook had told us were the -largest in Europe.</p> - -<p>In front of us, at the foot of the garden, ran the river, and a little -to the right was a small rapid, apparently about as high as the fall of -water that I used to see running a saw-mill on the East Taunton road, -but not for an instant did we suppose that those were ‘the falls.’ ‘Will -you please tell me where the Falls of the Rhine are?’ I asked a lady -near me. The woman looked dazed, and turned toward me to see if I was -blind, but politely answered, ‘Why, there they are!’ Impulsively, with a -disgusted tone, I exclaimed, so disappointed was I, ‘Those the Rhine -Falls! Well, just think of Niagara.’ ‘Sh—sh,’ said F., ‘you are forever -waving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> the stars and stripes.’ If the house and place had not given us -so much pleasure we should have felt our time wasted in coming here, but -these exceed our expectations. The cuisine was simply perfect, and at -table we were served by pretty, rosy-cheeked Swiss maids, dressed in -white skirts, full-sleeved white waists and black velvet bodices, and -looking as fresh and sweet as pinks. They moved, as if one person, to -the sound of a bell, doing entirely away with long waits between -courses, and every dish brought to us was most delicious.</p> - -<p><i>Friday, July 20th.</i>—We had our breakfast served on the broad piazza, -fronting the Rhine, by our pleasant Swiss girl this morning, and the -fragrance from the sweet flowers about us brought memories of the orange -groves in Florida where we stood only a few months ago. Time and steam -do wonders. Hoping to consider the falls a less disappointment on a -closer approach to them, we decided to go to their very centre in a -boat. About in the middle of them stands a rock, on which has been -erected a pavilion, and to which boatmen are ready to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span> take passengers -at all times. We reached the landing safely, through currents and -whirlpools, and the rapids themselves did appear of much greater -magnitude on closer proximity, but I doubt their being the largest in -Europe. The town of Schaffhausen is very ancient, with its queer old -houses, gateways, and walls. On the old bell of the cathedral is an -inscription, which translated means, ‘I call the living: I mourn the -dead: I break the thunder;’ which it is said, prompted Schiller to write -the exquisite verses of ‘The Song of the Bell.’</p> - -<p><i>Saturday, July 21st.</i>—Yes, the Schweizerhoff is a haven of rest, and -had we time, we should like to tarry longer. We are close to Germany -now, and must see something of it, but I fear the majestic scenery of -Switzerland has spoiled us for any scenery of less beauty. The -proprietors of these Swiss hotels have a custom of giving to each -departing lady guest a bouquet. Mine this morning was unusually -beautiful, and when I said to the giver, ‘We have really been charmed -with your house,’ a pretty picture of the place was added to the first -offering. To the omnibus in which we rode<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> to the station from the -hotel, was harnessed, as our leader, an immense cream-colored bull, a -handsome creature, truly huge in his proportions. I doubt if I shall -admire Paul Potter’s as much.</p> - -<p>In our car we had as our only travelling companions two priests, with -their long, flowing gowns and big hats. They continually prayed and -crossed themselves for a while, and we feared that they did not realize -that we were also two human beings and Christians, so entirely did they -ignore us. But after a time they looked up, and we found an occasion to -make a remark to them, which opened the way for a conversation, although -a limited one, as they could not understand one word of English, and we -stumbled much in German, but they were very bright, and looked over with -us our German conversation book, and we made quite a merry party. Our -route was through and over the Black Forest mountains, said to be the -most picturesque of all mountains. We passed through numerous tunnels, -some very long ones, and in utter darkness, as they did not light the -cars at all, giving one a good chance to think<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span> of all the terrible -accidents one ever heard of, and making one feel all the time as if -something dreadful might happen. I never did like to be in the dark, -unless as a tired child with my mother’s arms close about me. When not -underground, which seemed but little of the time, the scenery we saw was -bold and memorable. The whole region of this Black Forest is full of -traditional stories, and we stretched our necks as we turned precipitous -corners, hoping to get a glimpse of the ‘Black Huntsman’ dashing down -the dizzy heights back of us or in the green valleys below. We saw two -castles, and a huge monastery, ‘built on a rock’ on a high elevation. -And now, being in the mood, I think I will tell you of something we saw -later,—a cavern which is called ‘The Noble Lady’s Grave,’ and this is -the story which shows why so named, as told to us, or at least the main -points: ‘The husband of the lady left her alone in their home in the -Black Forest, with only her attendants for society, and, of course, she -being of noble birth, could not ‘chum’ much with her servants. He left -her thus to join the Crusades. She pleaded<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> with all a loving wife’s -earnestness for him to remain with her, but without avail. It looks as -if the knight cared more for glory than for his better half, but may be, -let us be charitable, ‘he had business she could not understand,’ or -perhaps ‘he had to meet a man,’ as many of the self-sacrificing husbands -of our own time are obliged to do, greatly to their own discomfort, but -‘duty is duty, you know.’ At any rate he tore himself away from her -clinging arms, in spite of tears and entreaties, undoubtedly hoping to -cover himself with glory in the holy city. Perhaps he had wearied of the -gloom, dismalness, and monotony of life in the Black Forest, and ‘needed -a change.’ His wife, of course, had more resources for pleasure; she -could do the mending of the family, tell the cook what to have for -dinner, and go to church and give thanks for so brave a husband, and -offer prayers for his welfare. The lonely, noble lady did all of these -things most faithfully for a while, but they soon ceased to be -entertaining, and life itself grew wearisome. There was no mail to be -expected in those days, no letters to answer, no progressive<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> euchre -parties, no Browning clubs, no sewing circles, no amateur theatricals, -and not even a neighbor to talk about, and no one to talk about the -neighbors with. Poor forlorn woman! Worn and weary with the watching and -the waiting, ‘He cometh not,’ she said. Her crusader most selfishly -tarried too long. But one fine day somebody’s else crusader came along, -and just as the noble lady was packing her ‘Saratoga’ to fly with him to -the lands where loneliness and the ‘blues’ were unknown, her own lawful -crusader appeared, killed her would-be rescuer, and shut the poor, -out-of-patience wife up in this cave in the hillside, which was her -prison living and her grave when dead.</p> - -<p>After the descent of the Black Forest range was made, we struck into -pretty, green valleys, where women, young girls, and children were -making hay,—Gretchens and Maud Müllers. Oxen and cows were used instead -of horses, and I saw two women <i>harnessed</i> into a hay-cart, which was -loaded with hay, and a man riding comfortably on top, smoking his pipe. -I would have liked to have seen him fall off, but I was told that men at -home, in this part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> world, are so few, that the women give them -the easy places, and work for them, and coddle and pet them to their -hearts’ content. The large majority of the men are away at the barracks. -The homes of the working people, just here, look as if intended to -illustrate a revised edition of ‘the happy family.’ Human beings, both -sexes, of several generations, judging from the very old looking women -and the few old men, and the little babies we see, with horses, cattle, -sheep, pigs, and hens, all live under one outside upper roof, having -perhaps the choice of apartments inside. The door-yards look neat, but -without exception, every house has somewhere near the never-to-be-missed -fertilizer pile, often higher than the house, and generally the bigger -the house the bigger the pile. Stocks up, they sell; stocks down, they -buy. Financial excitements, you see, are necessary even here. The houses -are never painted, and the roofs are covered with straw. At one station -where we changed cars we saw a group of Alsatian women with the genuine -Alsatian bows on their heads instead of bonnets. The bows were made of -some black material, and I think must have measured fully one yard from -one end to the other.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_IX" id="LETTER_IX"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER IX.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Hotel de la Ville de Paris, Strassburg.</span><br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">My dear</span> ——: Strassburg is a larger city than I had expected to see, and -some parts of it are very fine. The university buildings are handsome, -as are many others. The great cathedral, however, is the one particular -object of interest. We first took a look at the exterior, and many -looks, for its beauties are manifold. The carvings, statues, and -bas-reliefs are magnificent, as are also the towers, turrets, and the -spire. The west front, so called, has a rose window, and on each side of -this window is a large square tower. The entire façade is most -exquisitely sculptured. ‘But oh!’ said F., ‘do look up at the spire; -does it seem possible any object so elaborate and graceful could be made -of stone?’ The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> height of this spire is nearly five hundred feet. It -looks so light and airy, so like a wonderfully executed piece of -filagree work, towering towards the clouds, that I fear you cannot -imagine its beauty from a hasty description. It has been said to look -like ‘lace work,’ and the building itself, so fine are its carvings and -sculptures, said ‘to look as if it were placed behind a rich, open, -flower-like screen, or in a case of open-work stone,’ and these -comparisons will, I think, convey to you a little idea of its general -appearance, and you will be spared the lameness of neck that I suffered, -from the long stretch in looking up. Even in this land of art, -architecture, music, sculpture, and poetry, we are often reminded that -flesh, muscle, and nerves need some consideration. This church is indeed -a rare poem, an epic of the first water, and its author, the architect, -was Erwin von Steinbach, whose tomb is in one of the chapels. F., -anxious to do the most daring things, decided to ascend the spire by way -of the spiral staircase; I declined. She ascended and descended with a -level head, and declared she would not have missed the sights, for -anything,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span> of the closer view of the stone-work, and of the panoramic -picture from the elevation. Of the interior I shall not tell you much, -but its rich, elegant carvings, its beautiful stained-glass windows, its -clusters of pillars, its ornately sculptured pulpit, were objects of our -great enthusiasm and delight.</p> - -<p>Of the wonderful clock I will tell you a little. This astronomical clock -is in the south transept, and tells not only the time of the day but -indicates every event connected with astronomical phenomena, like the -changes of the moon, the seasons, the church calendar, and so forth. A -child strikes the quarter of the hour, a youth the half hour, a young -man the third quarter, and an aged man, tottering slowly, comes and -touches the bell with his staff, and passes on, soon followed by the -figure of Death, who strikes the full hour with a human bone; and just -then, the figures representing the twelve Apostles march in front of a -statue of the Saviour, who bends to give each one his blessing, and a -cock crows loudly thrice, while another figure—Time—turns an -hour-glass, for running of the sand<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> to indicate the next hour. It is -all extremely ingenious and interesting. The clock has been partly -reconstructed, as it is said the original, made in 1448, was partially -destroyed by the maker. The legend runs that the genius who invented and -made this wonderful structure of mechanism for Strassburg was urged to -make one for another town. The Strassburgers becoming jealous, sent for -the clock-maker, and requested him to give his promise that he would -never make another; but this he refused to do, which so angered them -they gave an order to have the poor man’s eyes put out. Hearing of this -terrible crime which was soon to be inflicted upon him, he offered to -make a few necessary repairs on the clock before losing his eyesight. As -soon as he had done this, his eyes were forever destroyed, but at the -same moment a crash from the clock was heard—weights, bells, and -figures fell to the ground, for the man had destroyed instead of -repairing his work. The clock just escaped being again destroyed at the -time of the bombardment by the Germans in 1870. The cathedral was -greatly damaged,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> but has been well repaired. One cannot wonder that the -French feel bitterly toward the Germans for taking from them, with -Alsace, this city so rich in its churches, but such is war. And long -ago, when this same place was a free German town, Louis XVI. captured it -for France, and now Germany claims it again. French and German seem to -be about equally spoken here.</p> - -<p>We met E. W. in the street to-day, and a pleasant surprise was her face. -In this strange country, mere acquaintances seem like dear friends, and -dear friends dearer than ever before. I wish I could hear your voice -to-day, but I know you are with us in thought, and glad that these days -are so filled with brightness for us, but we must not forget that they -cannot always last; we are so apt to, just as in summer we forget that -flowers so soon wither; but the fragrance of their fallen leaves remains -with us long, as will the sweet memories of these gliding hours.</p> - -<p><i>Holland Hotel, Baden Baden, July 23d, 1888.</i>—At four <small>P.M.</small> we reached -here from Strassburg. Our hotel is one of the best, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> after settling -our baggage in our spacious, handsomely furnished room, we went out to -reconnoitre. The town is lovely,—beautiful streets, buildings, shops, -and grand old shade trees everywhere, and just now the place is crowded -with people, driving, walking, flirting, and sauntering through the -streets, stores, and gardens, bareheaded. This reminds me more of -Saratoga in the summer season than any place I have before seen, -although there is not the display of dress here, or the taste displayed -in what dress there is, that we see in our American watering-places. In -fact, so far, I have had to come to the conclusion that European ladies -show very little good judgment and no style in dress, with the one -exception of the Parisians. The Duchess of Baden, who is the daughter of -the good old Emperor William, lives very near our hotel, and other -members of the royal family of Germany are here, but are, of course, all -in deep mourning for the dearly loved and much-lamented late Emperor -Frederick.</p> - -<p>After an excellent dinner we went to the ‘Conversation Haus,’ a large, -fine building in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> the midst of beautiful grounds, where everybody goes -evenings to hear the fine music and see the people. What else they go -for I cannot positively say, but am told that there is still some -gambling carried on somewhere within the walls of this building; but we -saw only its elegant drawing-rooms, ball and reception rooms, rich in -appearance as pictures and gilt, velvet, and silk furnishings could make -them. If any gambling is done here, or about here, in these days it is -done secretly, for when the German Government awakened to the fact that -accomplished scoundrels from all over the world met here to carry on -their nefarious practice, it suppressed all gambling, greatly to the -credit of the Government, for by so doing thousands of dollars that were -left here annually were spent in some other country than Germany. When -this was done it was feared that the prosperity of Baden was over, but -it did not prove so. The place is too lovely to be neglected by -travellers, and now, many of the wealthier and most respected Europeans -spend a portion of the summer here. There are over twenty large hotels -and more small ones, and they are now all well filled.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span></p> - -<p><i>July 24th.</i>—This morning we visited the ‘Trink Halle,’ an elegant -building, which is decorated with frescoes illustrating many of the old -German legends of the Black Forest. People flock here mornings to drink -the waters as they do at Congress Spring at Saratoga. Crowds of people -were present drinking the vile stuff as if they enjoyed it, but I found -it the least palatable of any mineral water I ever tasted. The Fraülein -who, at her leisure, at last waited upon us, acted as if it were a great -condescension on her part to allow us to taste the horrid liquid, but -she did not hesitate to take our money. I observed the same spirit in -all of the female employees in the town with whom we had anything to do. -They did not seem to wish us to see anything or to buy anything; and in -one store where we looked at a garment, after hearing the price, I -remarked to my companion that it would not cost much less, if any, than -at home, if we paid duties, and the girl, understanding English, said, -‘You could probably buy it elsewhere for less,’ and continued the -reading of a book she held in her hand. With such indifferent clerks I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> -should not suppose sales would be very large; but all merchandise was -dear at Baden excepting the little things found at the booths out of -doors and in the two rows of stores leading to the Conversation Haus. -These were very attractive, and everything for sale in them, from -magnificent diamonds and gems of all kinds, exquisite engravings and -photographs, down to buttons and hair pins, and the gentlemanly -proprietors and clerks were very polite.</p> - -<p>We next went to the Friedrichsbad, the finest bathing establishment in -the whole world. It is built of red and white stone, and is artistically -decorated with carvings. But the attendants there, the women, were as -disagreeable as the sex were at the Trink Halle; but as they were -remarkably good looking, they may have been placed there for ornament -instead of use, and the mistake our own in expecting them to give us any -information. We did not see the private baths, as it was not the hour to -show them, but we did succeed in seeing the magnificent round, white, -marble-lined swimming bath by waylaying the only man we saw in the -establishment and asking him to show it to us.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span></p> - -<p>We took a carriage to visit the ‘Alt Schloss,’ or old castle, now a ruin -and a very picturesque one, and then to the ‘Neue Schloss,’ where the -Grand Duke of Baden lives a part of the time. This is a home fit for the -gods—a grand castle, on an eminence overlooking the town and a -beautiful country round about it. It is surrounded by magnificent -grounds, and contains many valuable paintings and a gallery of antiques. -You remember the Duke’s wife is the daughter of old Emperor William, and -now, since the Emperor Frederick’s death, she is his only child living. -As none of the royal family were in the castle all of the apartments -were shown us, all attractive and rich in furnishings and finishings, -with lovely views of the beautiful valley of Baden Baden from the -windows. We next followed our guide down, down, into the dungeons below, -made in the rock on which the castle stands. All around us were -instruments of torture, and near us a deep excavation where condemned -persons were formerly thrown alive, and from which no cry for help could -be heard. We were glad to turn our backs upon these places of old-time -cruelty<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> and try to forget the barbarity of old margraves in admiration -of the late loved emperors of the country, William and Frederick, both -of whom have recently gone to their reward.</p> - -<p>These German duchies are small, very small, kingdoms. The duchy of Baden -is not as large as our State of Massachusetts, but the Grand Duke lives -in a kingly manner. He not only has his palaces here, but has one at -Carlsruhe, a short distance from here, one in Freiburg, one in -Heidelberg, and three or four others, and each one must require an -immense revenue to be cared for as they are. Now, just think of the -taxes the people must have levied upon them to keep up all this -grandeur. Supposing we had to, by being more largely taxed, pay our -governors a sum sufficient to live in such luxury, I think we should -soon rebel, and if we did not, I should fear our honest Puritan blood -had run out. From the ‘Neue Schloss’ we visited the pretty Greek church, -which is a gem, and finished our drive along the Lichtenthal Allée, the -beautiful avenue, shaded by magnificent trees and filled with carriages -of every description in which were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> seated lovely women, with gay -dresses and sparkling gems. Promenaders from all parts of the world -walking up and down, bands of music playing, and bright and brilliant is -the scene. Yes, Baden is delightful, and we have been cared for with -much thoughtfulness at our hotel and recommend it to all who come this -way.</p> - -<p><i>Willbad Springs, Germany, July 25th, 1888.</i>—I do not imagine that you -ever heard of this place, but it is worth hearing about. It is a small -watering-place, with natural springs, hot and cold, these springs being -considered by many the very fountains to dip in to ensure the -everlasting duration of youth, strength, and beauty. And here we are -visiting our own relatives, who have come from Dresden to tarry a while -for the benefit of the waters. How glad we were to see them all—our own -kith and kin! Cousin E. and his pretty little ‘foreign’ niece were at -the station to meet us, and you may well believe our tongues did run -fast for a while. Aunt M. is an encyclopedia of a most charming edition, -and has delighted us with stories of her experiences<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> in living and -travelling on this continent and with her cordiality towards us. -Hundreds of people are here, as the country about is attractive, and -then, too, the sick, lame, deaf, and blind come to be made whole. ‘Let -us bathe in these wonderful waters,’ said F. Here, as at Baden, there is -a fine building in which the baths are fitted up, with all the -conveniences, and the water brought into them from the natural springs. -What a furnace there must be here in the bowels of good mother earth, -and how well regulated to keep this water and send it to her children of -just the right temperature for a bath. I could not possibly think of any -irregularity of my body that needed doctoring, but was advised that when -‘in Rome I should do as the Romans do,’ and was told also by one of the -pleasant assistants (very different from the class at Baden) that many -American ladies had derangements of the liver, and I undoubtedly would -have some time, being an American, and these baths were a sure -preventive as well as a sure cure. I had never thought much about my -liver, as it had never called for special attention,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span> but feeling that -here was the grand opportunity for ‘taking time by the forelock,’ -plunged in. Result: stayed a day longer at Willbad than was my -intention. They make very good gruel at Willbad! I had no right to the -healing properties of Willbad waters, for there was nothing wrong with -my constitution. The waters took their own way of revenging imposition.</p> - -<p><i>July 26th, 1888.</i>—Have been in the house all day. This evening half of -our household went to the opera and the rest of us listened to some fine -music in the Park. The band was a splendid one, and the programme -contained choice selections, such as we should have to pay a dollar or -two to hear at home. How full of music these Germans are, and how -soulfully they execute! We have just decided not to go with E. to -Bayreuth to the Wagner Festival, but to take the time to see more of -this country, for this we cannot have at home, but we can have Wagner’s -music, and, better still, our own Symphony and Gericke. We lingered in -the drawing-room of our relatives late, hating to say ‘good-night,’ for -the morning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> will be the beginning of a longer parting. And when shall -we all meet again. Adieus must be said, and when we thanked our friends -for the pleasant time with them they said, ‘But we have done so little!’ -Ah! life is made up of little things; loving words, smiles, and kindly -acts win the heart always.</p> - -<p><i>Hotel de l’Europe, Heidelberg, Germany, July 27th, 1888.</i>—On our way -here from Willbad we stopped for a few hours at Carlsruhe, which is one -of the residences of the Court of Baden and is the capital of the grand -duchy of Baden. We are getting tired of palaces, so, instead of visiting -the very magnificent one at Carlsruhe, spent what time we had in the -palace gardens and in the botanical garden, the orangery, and the -hothouses. The flowers are about the same as we have at similar places -at home, with a few plants and blossoms strangers to us. We reached -Heidelberg at five <small>P.M.</small> and were considered distinguished arrivals, I am -sure, for a carpet was spread awaiting our footsteps from the carriage -to the hotel door and several gentlemen in dress suits stood in a line -with folded arms and bowed very low to us as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> we passed along. Now, this -was delightful! They never do that at Parker’s or Young’s when we go -there. This hotel is fine, standing in the centre of a pretty garden. We -have a luxurious room and on the first floor. We are getting to like the -single beds, one apiece, that we have everywhere over here very much, -for if one does feel like taking the ‘spoon fashion’ position, there is -no one with coequal rights near to object. Nor are the employees as -attentive at the home hotels. Here we no sooner get settled in our rooms -than the polite portier appears, takes our names and residence; no going -to the office to register here, and the letters U. S. A. act like magic, -for are not the United States of America overrun with millionaires, and -so many of them resort to travel purposely to get rid of a portion of -their troublesome, superfluous incomes. ‘Would we like a glass of wine -brought to our room? Is our room satisfactory? Perhaps we would like a -special maid during our stay, which he hopes will be long. When it suits -us to allow him, it will give him much pleasure to tell us about the -city and what to visit and the pleasantest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> way to see all.’ Well, -really, these portiers are invaluable, and although there may be some -grasping ones, who impose upon strangers, we have found nearly all of -great assistance and apparently well satisfied with what we have given -them, which has never been more than we felt that they deserved for -service rendered.</p> - -<p>We took a drive about the city, which is a long, narrow place sandwiched -in between the river Neckar and the hills, on the highest one of which -stands the ruins of the old castle. We were driven through a long -avenue, with pretty trees on each side and some residences, but more -stores, and the sidewalks filled with people. This street is called the -Anlage; and is the principal boulevard of the city. We saw the ‘Helig -Geist Kirche’—Church of the Holy Ghost, into which the people of -Heidelberg were driven, crowded in like animals, so closely that they -could not move, by the French army in the time of Louis XIV., and left -there to suffer, until the steeple took fire as the town was being -burned. This old structure has had many critical changes in its history, -and is now divided by a thick wall, on one side of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> the Roman -Catholics worship, and on the other the Protestants. Our driver was a -talker, and told us much we understood, and more that we did not, of the -places of interest we passed. ‘Now show us the university buildings,’ we -said, and he soon halted in front of an old, plastered or stuccoed -structure, that resembled barracks more than a renowned seat of -learning, and was a great disappointment to us. A drive over an old -stone bridge, from the farther end of which we had a charming view of -the castle perched on the mountain side, overhanging the town, with its -towers, battlements and arches, a regal ruin in truth, and back to our -hotel, ended our first sight of Heidelberg.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely entered our room when a band of musicians stationed -themselves directly under our window and struck up the ‘Wedding March’ -from Lohengrin, and it was exquisitely played too, and on fine -instruments. We came to the conclusion that we were supposed to be -brides on our wedding tour, and had commenced disciplining our ‘better -halves’ by leaving them at home, as we find it is a source of great -wonder to the Europeans, and especially<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> to the English and the Germans, -that the American wives travel about so much without their husbands. One -lovely German lady, in Baden, in speaking on this subject, said to me, -‘And what do these husbands left alone do?’ ‘Do?’ I answered, ‘why, they -not only attend to their own business matters, but they run the house, -take care of the children, and write daily love letters to their absent -wives, and love them better than ever, if possible, when they reach home -again. You must believe,’ I said, ‘that American husbands are the best -in the world, and that with us, in all grades of life, wives are treated -with tenderness and consideration, and as equals.’ She looked a little -incredulous, and I could not wonder when I thought of the pitiable -sights of her country, that are before us daily, of women, bronze faced, -half dressed, working in the fields, digging, hoeing, pushing the -plough; in the towns breaking stone, sawing wood, and bending beneath -heavy loads of many kinds, carried on head or back, while their husbands -take their ease, at the barracks, perhaps, and when at home take the -money earned by their wives. One of the worst<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span> features, too, of this -condition of things is that the women do not rebel; if their husbands -take them into the gardens on Sunday, and drink beer with them, often -paid for with the little earnings of the overworked wives, they are -satisfied. Poor things, they have never known anything better. Amongst -the poor of Germany, matrimony was not commenced right. I think the -military laws of the country are to blame greatly for the degradation of -the women of the so-called lower classes. A man who is or has been in -the army considers it beneath him to do honest labor, but not beneath -him to allow his wife to do it.</p> - -<p><i>July 28th, 1888.</i>—Life is a glorious gift, and a morning so bright and -lovely as this makes one thankful! Immediately after breakfast we went -to the castle, of which we have had views from a distance, and of which -all our lives we have heard so much. There it stood, massive and grand, -the most magnificent architectural ruin in the world. It is a ruin, but -there is very much more of the original building left than of -Kenilworth, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span> has walls only left; this has halls, rooms, and -chapels, some of which have been restored. There is a moat around it, -after crossing which we passed under and through a picturesque gateway, -from which ivy and wild vines were waving, and entered the courtyard. -The façade is of three stories, and on it are allegorical figures, -statues, medallions, and stone carvings. Tradition gives Michael Angelo -as the architect of this façade. Ball-rooms and banquet-halls were shown -to us, some containing paintings in a fairly good state of preservation, -which seems more remarkable when we consider that they have been there -since long before America was discovered. Of the woman who acted as our -guide we asked many questions, for one feels so much more interest in -the history of a place when on the spots talked of. She was well -informed, and told us what we had often read, that the castle was built -in the thirteenth century, and that for several hundred years the Counts -Palatine lived here in royal magnificence, and that at one period -eighteen hundred persons formed the family, or the Court, of the -Elector. No wonder they needed fireplaces<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> large enough to roast oxen -whole. The building was several times partly destroyed by armies, but -was rendered useless to live in by lightning, at last.</p> - -<p>What jolly times the high in power and the old sprigs of royalty in -those days meant to have! One would have surely a dull imagination, or -no imagination at all, who could here wander from room to room and not -see with the mind’s eye the revellings of the long ago. The big tun in -the cellar is hogshead-shaped, and really will hold forty-nine thousand -gallons, and has been twelve times filled with the best wines. Can you -comprehend such an amount, and a receptacle huge enough to contain it? -The ‘Elizabethan Bau’ still shows that Frederick V. brought his bride, -Elizabeth of England, to a princely home. But the silence and the decay -of these ‘banquet halls deserted’ remind us forcibly of the brevity of -the power and glory of this life, and should be a lesson to us to -prepare for the life to come, which only is lasting. The wonderful -beauty of the castle itself, the romantic situation, and the exquisite -landscape views from its rich stone terrace,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span> will be choice pictures in -our memories for many a day.</p> - -<p>There are but few attractive shops in Heidelberg; plenty of bologna -sausages and pretzels; portraits and photographs of the two dead -emperors everywhere, and many of the new Emperor William. ‘The king is -dead. Long live the king.’ The city seems full of soldiers, all with -black crape on their arms, and the citizens—men, women, and -children—wear it also. Everything shows to us that we are indeed in -Germany.</p> - -<p>In our walks and drives in the town we have looked for the university -students, and we have seen them—plenty of them, with faces cut and -scarred, court-plastered and bandaged. What an abominable custom is -this: to allow these naturally fine looking young men to make each other -so hideous and repulsive in appearance for the rest of their lives. The -American students here have nothing whatever to do with this disgraceful -custom, and yet the Germans know well they are no cowards. A student -from New York gave evidence of his willingness to risk his life, in a -really noble act,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> by jumping into the River Neckar and saving the life -of a child who had fallen from the bridge here, a short time ago. These -German students are formed into five sections, or corps, and the members -of each corps wear caps alike, so that it may be known by all who see -them to which corps they belong. The colors are white, yellow, red, -blue, and green, and the members of one corps never allow themselves to -be in the least friendly with members of any other corps, for they may -have to haggle them with swords within the next twenty-four hours. These -corps students, we are told, belong to the most aristocratic families of -Germany, and yet at the slightest provocation, and indeed with no -provocation at all, they fight each other like wild cats. Very recently -one of the red caps, by mistake, took a book belonging to a white cap, -was challenged for so doing, and was slashed with his opponent’s sword -unmercifully. I tell you this, as told to us, to show you how little it -takes to cause a duel. If the members of the corps do not challenge each -other, the president of a corps challenges for them—fight they must, or -be forever<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> branded as cowards, and to show the slightest sign of being -afraid to do so would make life in Heidelberg unbearable for them -forever after. In the duel, no matter how seriously one is hurt—his ear -may be cut off, or his nose split—he must not wince or show a sign of -the ‘white feather.’ Now is not this disgusting? Brave they say it makes -them! Thank God, our young men show their bravery in nobler directions! -Seeing students everywhere in our strolls about town, I wondered when -they studied, and asked many questions in regard to the rules of the -university. It seems rules are few. Heidelberg University gives to all -who choose to hear, at a very small charge, lectures on all the sciences -and arts, delivered by men of great wisdom; so if students wish to -learn, they have great opportunities. If they are indifferent, everybody -else is in regard to them; they can do as they please. We heard a great -deal of their capacity for, and indulgence in, beer drinking, but saw -little of it.</p> - -<p>In the old castle there is a banquet-room where they congregate for -their revels often.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> This grand old ruin now belongs to the Duke of -Baden.</p> - -<p>We have made some purchases of leather goods here—pocket-books, -card-cases, and so forth, extremely pretty and cheap—and they all bear -the impress of the castle; so you shall see many views of it when we get -home. At our hotel to-day a young American girl heard of the sudden -death of her father, and refused to be comforted. Poor dear child, how -our hearts went out in sympathy for her. And how hard it is for us all, -amid the sorrows and griefs of this life, to keep always God’s love for -us in view.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_X" id="LETTER_X"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER X.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Mayence, Germany</span>, <i>July 29th, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> -<p><span class="smcap">A fine</span> city is this, a large one too, with broad, handsome streets. Our -first visit was, as usual, to the cathedral. Service was going on, and -this being some anniversary day, the church was profusely decorated with -fresh plants and flowers. The entire chancel was filled with ferns and -white blossoms. I sat a while listening to the service, but the only -portion of it I was capable of appreciating was the fine tone of the -organ as it sent out its waves of sweetness over me. When I arose to go -I could not find F., nor could I find the way out. A handsome old German -immediately comprehended my situation, and gallantly escorted me to the -door, and upon leaving me<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> bowed nearly to the ground. The German -gentlemen are very polite; and when we were at Strassburg, at our first -table d’hôte dinner there, we were the only ladies at the table, and -there were ten gentlemen. We were the first to rise to leave, when, to -our surprise and embarrassment, every gentleman arose and bowed. We of -course recognized the courtesy by bowing also. In this Mayence cathedral -we saw the monument to Gen. Lahmberg, who was killed at the siege of -Mainz, and wondered at the ridiculousness of this costly piece of -marble, which is like this: a figure representing Death is pushing the -much-bewigged general into a sarcophagus, which appears altogether too -small for him. Some of the statues and monuments, however, were very -beautiful and appropriate; one of Frauenlob, the ‘champion of women,’ -exceptionally so. His bier was carried to the grave by eight beautiful -and noble women.</p> - -<p>Like the rest of the German cities, this one seems full of soldiers. At -the barracks we saw crowds of them, and in the streets saw several -regiments marching, fine-looking specimens of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> mankind, and moving as if -one man. I am told that in this one town there are more soldiers than in -our whole army. That may be so, but I am thankful that our men devote -their lives to better uses than the everlasting preparing for war! Think -of the progress of our comparatively new country. Think of the condition -of our working people! Think of the multitude of invaluable inventions -American brains have given to the world! And when war has to come, that -good may come from it, American men are not far behind, but they do not -spend much time in ‘playing soldier.’ True it is that the military -spirit pervades, fills, the whole of Germany in all ways and in all -directions. At all of the railway stations it greets and surrounds us. -Every man in Germany has served a number of years in the army. They all -stand in a military attitude, and walk with a military step. The -railroad officials and employees have all been soldiers. The rank of -their present positions is indicated by their special uniforms. The -captain of the station wears a showy costume of blue trousers with a red -side-stripe, a frock coat, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span>double-breasted, a gilt belt, and plenty of -large gilt buttons, and a red cap always, with gilt trimmings. The -guards are also dressed in uniform, but wear blue caps. When the -passengers alight, these guards bow and salute, whether to do honor to -the arrivals, or whether the salutes were for each other only, I cannot -say, but will say it is a pretty custom, and much superior to the -hurry-scurry, jostle-about manner of the depot employees in our own -cities.</p> - -<p>The railroad stations in Germany are very much finer than our own. The -interiors of the buildings are neat, with comfortable furnishings, fine -restaurants, and dress-coated waiters quick and ready to serve. The -station-houses are surrounded with well-cared-for grounds, containing -flowers, fountains often, gravelled walks, and comfortable seats, so -that waiting for trains never becomes tedious. Think of all this, you -who wait at some of our country stations! And, better than all, every -man is courteous and polite, never in too much of a hurry to answer -questions and give information. To the captain at the station<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> here we -are particularly indebted for kindness and grateful to him for his -assistance, and especially for rendering all as if it were his greatest -pleasure. In a drive about the city we visited the museum. Saw many -quaint old buildings, watch-towers, statues, the Elector’s palace, and a -variety of other fine buildings.</p> - -<p><i>Grand Hotel du Rhin, Wiesbaden, Germany, July 30th, 1888.</i>—I believe -Wiesbaden is more attractive than Baden. At any rate, nothing could have -charmed me more than the appearance of this town—the name of which -means ‘Meadow bath’—in the lovely drive we have just had through its -pretty streets, bordered with fine trees and magnificent residences. -Hotels are crowded, as we are here in the season for fashionable -recreation and rest, and perhaps I may add, fashionable dissipation. -People bathe in and drink the unsavory waters, and think they are made -as good as new. The springs are a curiosity, and as the water bubbles up -to the surface it emits clouds of vapor, and sends out an odor -suggestive of having washed out Hades. We were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> fortunate in meeting, in -our drive, Louise, Princess of Nassau, in a very ordinary-looking -turnout, and not prepossessing-looking herself, but our driver informed -us that she is charitable and well-beloved by all. We, later, visited -the palace of the Duke of Nassau. There is a pretty English church here, -and a very beautiful Greek chapel, built by one of the Nassau dukes in -memory of his Russian wife. A figure of the sleeping Duchess, in white -marble, is lovely. These Greek chapels have always a gilded dome. The -natural beauties of Wiesbaden are numerous and unusual. It is said -Kaiser William loved the place.</p> - -<p>This evening we went to the Cursaal, a handsome edifice, in which are -ball-rooms, concert rooms, and so forth. There are beautiful grounds, -beautifully laid out, around the building, with parterres of flowers, -miniature lakes, fountains, rustic arbors and seats, and everything to -make the place attractive. The Cursaal, the gardens, and the colonnades -were all brilliantly illuminated, and a fine band playing in front of -the piazza on which we sat. The seats and gardens were thronged with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span>people,—sitting or walking about, chatting, drinking wine or beer, -listening to the fine music, and having a good time generally. Before -the suppression of gambling in 1872, it was here carried on to about as -great an extent as at Baden. While sitting taking in the brilliant -scene, a lady sitting next me, who could speak a little English, -addressed me. It was quite evident that her tongue must move constantly -in some language. She was ‘cute’ and discerning, and after looking us -well over, ventured to ask, as if know she must, ‘American or English?’ -‘American,’ I replied. ‘I thought so; and you never saw a sight like -this before, did you?’ Many of the intelligent people over here seem to -think that there is nothing ornamental or beautiful in America, and it -gives me great pleasure to undeceive and surprise them. Many seem to -have an idea that we are as crude as savages.</p> - -<p>These watering-places have some advantages over our own Saratoga and the -Springs of Virginia, in the way of natural scenery, drives, and foliage, -but the hotels at this place do not equal our own, the equipages are far -less elegant,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> and one can see more handsome women and more tasteful -costumes in one day at Newport than in a whole season here. This hotel -we have not liked as well as the one in which we stayed at Baden. Our -meals have been served in a sort of rustic arbor on a large scale, -gorgeously gotten up, with vines, evergreens, running water, and -flowers; but I must say I had rather eat in the house, where there are -no suggestions of bugs or worms; but the Germans love to eat and drink -out of doors. My candle is growing short, therefore I must make this -letter so, with loving thoughts of you all. Good-night.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday, July 31st, 1888.</i>—The sun shone brightly in answer to our -prayers this morning, and we are thankful, for we did want a clear sky -for our canopy while on the Rhine. At seven <small>A.M.</small> we left our hotel, and -were driven a distance of three miles, over a fine road, to the river, -where we found a boat ready for us. The steamers that ply on the Rhine -look very different from our own craft. They are long, narrow, and low. -We made our way on board, with hands full of maps and descriptive<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> -books, with the rest of the crowd, picked up our stools as we went -along, and seated ourselves for a day’s trip on the Rhine, filled with -‘unspeakable emotions’ and a poor breakfast.</p> - -<p>At first we see but little of interest,—small villages, gardens, -vineyards, and inns, near the water, and excursionists sitting on their -porticos eating and drinking. Occasionally a cross or a statue on the -hillside varies the scene. We are disappointed in the vineyards: the -vines run up on sticks, and look like stunted pole-bean vines growing, -and our expectations of graceful green-clothed arches and arbors vanish. -‘How muddy the water looks, too!’ said I, ‘and when or where do we get -to the delightful part of the Rhine?’ A young German gentleman sat near -us, who evidently did not like that question, as if it could be for once -thought that any part of the romantic river could be anything but -beautiful. I will tell you more of this gentleman later. At Bingen we -made our first stop, and thought, as everybody does, of Mrs. Norton’s -poem. And I thought of the little boy I so earnestly once trained to -recite her touching lines:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘O friend, I fear the lightest heart<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Makes sometimes heaviest mourning.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>From childhood we have read of the Rhine and its romantic legends, and -now to us it seems as if every spot must be inhabited by princes and -princesses, dragons, warriors, knights and syrens. The tower, called the -Mouse Tower, which is in the middle of the river, was built in order to -collect taxes from every boat that passed. The legend runs that an -archbishop, at the time of a famine, took what grain there was from the -poor, for his own wants. The starving throng begged him for bread, and -he said to them, ‘You shall have it; go into that empty barn and I will -give you warm bread!’ The people rushed into the barn, when he closed -the doors, and set it on fire, and when they all cried out in terror he -coolly said, ‘Listen to the pipings of the mice.’ From the ashes of the -people armies of mice came to devour him; he rushed to the tower for -safety; but the mice, undaunted, followed him, and ate his flesh to the -bone, and his skeleton was found in the Rhine. You will recall now these -words of the poem—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘They whetted their teeth against the stones,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And then they picked the bishop’s bones.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Fragments of poetry come to one’s mind constantly here, for nearly every -spot has been sung of by some one.</p> - -<p>Near by is the great ruin of the Castle Ehrenfels, where the Archbishop -of Mayence, or Mainz, as the Germans say, used to flee for safety in -times of agitation. Opposite is the Castle of Rheinstein (Rhine Stone), -which has been restored, and is owned and often occupied by the royal -family of Germany, and looks indeed very inviting. The legend connected -with this castle is a pretty tale, because the end gives Gerda, the -lovely daughter of Count Siegfried, to Kuno, the man she loved, -notwithstanding the treachery of his bachelor cousin Kurt, who -endeavored to win her for himself, but as a meet punishment fell from -his horse while following her and was killed. Kuno inherited his -estates, and he, with Gerda, ever after ‘lived in peace.’</p> - -<p>We saw the <i>Siebenjungfrauen</i>, ‘Seven Virgins,’ now seven cold rocks, -once beautiful maidens. The Lurlei, a river nymph, turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span> them into -stone for flirting too much with the susceptible youth of the Rhine. -Near by are the huge rocks of the Lurlei, where dwelt the syren, whose -sweet voice lured all who heard it, and whose greatest delight was to -charm these admirers on to their own destruction. It is said that even -now, at the uncanny hour of midnight, the phantom of a boat can be seen, -with the shadowy figure of a man with outstretched arms standing in the -centre, gazing toward the cliff, where he had once seen and been -entranced by the lovely maid and her sweet voice.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“To the Rhine, to the Rhine, go not to the Rhine,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">My son, I counsel thee well:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">For there life is too sweet and too fine,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And every breath is a spell.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The Nixie calls to thee out of the flood;<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And if thou her smiles shouldst see,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And the Lorelei, with her beautiful lips,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Then ’tis all over with thee;<br /></span> -<span class="i5">For bewitched and delighted<br /></span> -<span class="i7">Yet seized with fear,<br /></span> -<span class="i5">Thy home is forgotten,<br /></span> -<span class="i7">And mourners weep here.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>I become so absorbed in all these old traditions, that I feel like -telling you the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> stories as if they were new, but you know them all, and -I must stop or weary you, for you are in practical Boston, and I on this -historic, romantic stream. Near us, on the boat, sat a -distinguished-looking party of Germans, one of whom was the young -gentleman I previously alluded to, and who had watched us, we felt, with -considerable interest, for the citizens of one nation are always -interested in travellers from far-off lands, taking notes of their own. -Hearing me ask of F. a question in regard to one of the old ruins, which -information she was unable to give me, he kindly volunteered the desired -explanation, apologizing at the same time for addressing us. He was -every inch a gentleman, and spoke English a little. His knowledge of -everything in the vicinity, his kind attentions, and the use of his -superior glasses, added greatly to the pleasure of our trip. I think he -<i>looked</i> at my companion, but he talked with me, and was charming. ‘Have -you reached “the delightful part of the Rhine”?’ he asked, and I felt -that I had. The only really beautiful portion is from Bingen to Bonn. It -is between these cities that the river turns and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span> winds from one -mountain side to the other, on whose heights stand the picturesque old -ruins—castles, convents, and crags. Of course the Drachenfels, or -Dragon’s Rock, with the castle ruins, brought to us many memories of the -‘Niebelungen Lay,’ for it was here, on this romantic ground, that young -Siegfried showed his wonderful strength, which has been told and sung of -ever since. If only he had dipped his entire body in the dragon’s blood, -and not left the one spot exposed! But, ah me! I fear we all have the -one vulnerable spot somewhere, for we are all human! In and near this -vicinity the finest grapes grow, and the vineyards are extensive and -receive constant care.</p> - -<p>We made a short stop at Bonn, long enough to see the fine statue of -Beethoven, who was born here, and who was descended from a family of -wonderful musicians. Saw the university buildings also, where a young -gallant, once ours, studied, and then we pushed on down the river, the -banks now flat and of little interest, until Cologne came in sight.</p> - -<p>Yes, we have greatly enjoyed the Rhine, but taking it entire, I am a -little disappointed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> and as these are honest letters, telling you of -sights just as I am impressed by them, I must say, that with the -exception of that portion of the river I have spoken of to you, which is -bordered by the mountains, castle-tipped, I think our own Hudson, with -its lovely banks and its shadowy Catskills, the more beautiful. I am -thinking now of the time, one year ago, when I sat on the deck of the -Mary Powell running up past the grand palisades and dear, lovely, old -West Point. Well, I shall be homesick if I dwell upon that trip. Our -attentive German escort, whose card has told us that he is the son of -Baron von H., and a student at Bonn, now taking his vacation, requested -my consent to accompany us to our hotel, as he was to stop at the same -one, hoping to be able to be of service to us, which very kind offer we -declined, and stepped into a droschky, which soon safely landed us at -the Hotel Disch.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_XI" id="LETTER_XI"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER XI.</h2> -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Cologne.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> room was all ready for us, and it was a fine one, and a -rocking-chair in it, as sure as we are here, the first one seen since -leaving Paris. How home-like! Letters, too! the best welcome of all. One -from you, dear, who have proved by services and self-sacrifices that -‘love’ is more than a word; and two from dear friends whose rare -friendship has known no change. How eagerly we read them! How thankful -to know you are all well! Oh how far away in body we feel from you -to-night!</p> - -<p>A rap at the door! A note handed me! What is this? Credentials, and a -letter formally introducing our young fellow-traveller of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> our trip down -the Rhine. He was well known by our hotel proprietor. Well, he has -worked rapidly since landing to try to assure us more earnestly that he -is the gentleman he seemed, and of which I was perfectly positive -without his having taken all this trouble. He sends us some fresh, sweet -roses, and asks if he may sit with us at table d’hôte. A little resting -in our room, a little lingering at the window, from which we have a fine -view, and our first, of the great cathedral, and down to dinner we go, -Miss F. not forgetting to wear her share of the lovely jacqueminots. Our -friend was waiting for us, and looked handsomer than ever in his fine -dress-suit. We were all hungry, and did wish a little more speed could -be used in serving table d’hôte dinners. If one is sight-seeing, and -desires the time for something besides waiting, these long-drawn-out -affairs require the patience of a Job to sit to the end of them.</p> - -<p>After dining we walked out into one of the parks and heard excellent -music, looked about the old town, guided by our German, who was familiar -with every spot and who quite educated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span> us upon Cologne and its history. -Upon bidding him good-night, he said he should be happy to escort us -about the next day, but previous arrangements compelled us to decline -with the heartiest of thanks. He was disappointed, and the big, dreamy -blue eyes rested upon the sun-browned girl with me, who looks thoroughly -the tramp she is. They two converse in German, and so rapidly! I must -practise German more; I can hardly follow them. Why will people talk all -languages but our own as if tongues were propelled by steam?</p> - -<p><i>Hotel Disch, Cologne, August 1st, 1888.</i>—Thanks we offer for a good -night’s rest and for this lovely morning. Our bell rings, and I find at -our door a maid with a basket of exquisite flowers tied with blue -ribbon, colored, I am sure, with the reflection of a certain pair of -eyes. A card, with the donor’s name, hoping the ladies are well. A -pretty morning welcome, surely! We receive a call later, and bid -God-speed to our German friend, who seems as reluctant to leave us as we -are to have him go. But such is travelling: we meet as ships at sea, -salute each other and then pass on. Moral of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> this little episode: If -you wish in journeying about to have plenty of attention, take a young -lady with you.</p> - -<p>Cologne, or Köln, is a large city, and in some of the streets where much -of the perfume is made the odor is very evident and much more welcome -than the cheese scent of Berne or the garlic-impregnated air of some of -the German towns. This is a fascinating old place, and the streets of -shops, gay, bright, and progressive looking, and the old, narrow, -crooked thoroughfares very odd, with their queer old buildings. The -garrison here contains seven thousand soldiers: think of their seven -thousand ‘ribs’ at home digging potatoes. There are many churches here, -old towers and fountains, an archbishop’s palace, and statues of the -different German emperors, one fine one of Gen. Moltke and one of -Bismarck, all good specimens of careful work. Cologne water is for sale -everywhere, stores of it, in bottles and flasks of every shape, on the -street corners, in the corridors of hotels, and children rush up to you -and take it out of their pockets, urging you to buy. Throughout<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span> Germany -I have seen the beautiful face of Queen Louise carved, chiselled, -painted and photographed, but here, in an art store, I saw an engraving -of the same sweet face, the loveliest of all. No wonder old Emperor -William cherished her memory so sacredly, and forgot not the insults of -Napoleon heaped upon his beloved, noble mother. We went, for a short -time in each, to the Zoological and the Botanical gardens. We thought we -would see some of the sights of the town before going into the -cathedral, but the huge pile was before us at every turn and we could -wait no longer to see the crowning glory of the place.</p> - -<p>Cologne Cathedral! Dear, of this great piece of Gothic architecture, -with its majestic arches, columns, pillars, windows, and all else that -helps make up its wonderful beauty, I have no words to tell you. It is -perfect: nothing has equalled it. We wandered about, then seated -ourselves, with never before in our lives so beautiful a perspective -before us, and I was so overpowered with it all that I am not sure but I -should still be sitting there if F. had not said, ‘Come, we must see the -chapels.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span> There are seven of them, all filled with costly pictures and -relics. In the treasury of the church there are gold and silver, -diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and rubies enough to buy bread for all -Germany. The beautiful churches of this country, the wonderful telling -of sacred stories in their paintings, the speaking statues, which bring -to us the ‘good tidings’ anew, the soothing, restful colors, are all -great lessons and we can get much good from them. But the sacristies, -filled with gold and silver in meaningless shapes, precious, costly gems -imbedded in old skulls repulsive to look upon, are indeed abominations. -If all these riches were turned into money to help the Saviour’s poor, -would it not be a better way of doing ‘His bidding’? For the poor and -the hungry are not far from the masses of wealth, wherever or in -whatever form it may be. I appreciate æsthetically this dazzling display -of artistic splendor and riches, but my heart goes out in pity and -sympathy toward the multitude who are taxed to support it. And are not -these terrible differences, whether in church or in society, the seed -which may some time<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> grow into anarchy and revolution? Even in dear, -good Boston, not long ago, I heard a delicate woman, who toiled daily -for her invalid husband and three little ones, say, ‘I am so discouraged -to-day in my struggle for the necessities of life that it is almost -maddening to take up the paper and see that Mrs. A. had a thousand -dollars worth of flowers at her ball last night, that Mrs. B. wore a ten -thousand dollar necklace, and so on.’</p> - -<p>This town is well supplied with churches, there being twenty noted ones -here. I did not feel much inclined to see anything less impressive than -the cathedral, but submissively followed F. to St. Ursula, for, she -said, nowhere else could I see the bones of eleven thousand virgins. And -sure enough, there they were! many of them placed in position, like -rails in a Virginia fence. Three thousand skulls are also ranged along -on shelves together, grinning silently at each other. If Hamlet runs out -of skulls, there are plenty in Cologne. The decorations, however, would -probably not be thrown in, as they are worth a good deal more than the -skulls. Some wear<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> embroidered and jewelled hoods, others wear caps of -silver and gold. There is a painting of St. Ursula here,’ and the shrine -of St. Ursula, set with precious stones. ‘And this is the arm-bone of -St. Ursula,’ said our solemn guide. ‘Is it really?’ said I. ‘And this is -her foot,’ ‘My! just think of it, F.! St. Ursula’s foot!’ And with -renewed solemnity our guide continued, ‘And this is her hair net,’ ‘Her -hair net! do let me see it closer. Are her false crimps here also?’ ‘And -here are the teeth of the virgins,’ ‘Blessed virgins! they will never -have the toothache any more from these teeth!’ ‘And here is the vase in -which the water was turned to wine at the marriage-feast at Cana, in -Galilee!’ ‘Is it possible? do you really believe it?’ said I. The man—a -handsome priest—bowed low and crossed himself. Much of the story of St. -Ursula and her pilgrimage is illustrated in paintings on the walls of -the church. We surely had our money’s worth, and our fill of churches -for one day.</p> - -<p>Our German friend does not forget us, although now miles away! Flowers, -and a letter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> to F., which we find upon returning to our hotel, prove -this. The letter is so ‘cute,’ and so original, also, in its attempts to -express its writer’s feelings in English, that I will copy it for you, -word for word, for you will appreciate it, and I am sure he would not -object, for you do not even know his name:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="smcap">My dear Miss</span> ——: I fear this first letter will be very -sentimental, but I cannot help it. I must once more tell it to you -how sorry I am that I fear our acquaintance will now be finished -already, and how much I felicite myself to have had the bonheur of -this acquaintance. Also I feel obliged to thank you much for the -confidence you kindly have had in granting unto me this -acquaintance. It I never will forget. Yes, it is a bad, sorry word, -the word Abschied. I don’t know it meant in English. Before all, if -we pronounce it, with the very doubtful hope to see the person -everywhere again, to whom we have to pronounce that word. You must -have seen how much it gave me pain and trouble to say it to you -that evening. By writing, that goes better,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> than I not do see your -eyes, hear your voice, feel your presence but in mind. I now bow -down for trying to say to you that forever I will cherish you, as I -was an old friend of yours, and that I desire, of all my heart, you -may be as happy in all your life as anybody can be, and as you want -to be. Wherever you exist, all my wishes and love will be for you, -and all the regards for Madame —— accompanying you. And now, enough -of my deep feelings, for I fear you may become angry to so hear -them, and regulate of your promise to hear my correspondence. If -you will have a next letter, I will do my very better to be less -melancolie in that following letter, for to-day I cannot else. -Allow me pleasure to send you some sweet roses—similie, similie, -say the homeopaths; that means—O I know here that means true here, -and you must know it. Farewell, my sweet American lady, and -good-bye. My hope and longing for the seeing you again is -inexplicable. Please now make my most respectful compliments to -Madame ——, and do hold me, while life lasts, in your good -friendship. I hope you will excuse my bad English,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span> for it all -comes from this heart, and not from this head of your faithful -friend forever, who is in pain to say adieu to you, and more than -ever before must I go to America and your city Boston. I pray you -do write to me, your friend, who shall wait and watch for your -words.</p> - -<p class="r"> -—— ——.’<br /> -</p></div> - -<p>I doubt if we could answer in German, on paper, and make ourselves as -clearly understood. We hope sometime to see our devoted and much-valued -friend again.</p> - -<p><i>Hotel Disch, August 2d, 1888.</i>—We have had a long drive about the city -to-day. We saw the bridge of boats and went into the cathedral for the -third time, and each time its beauty impresses us more and more. If the -tradition connected with the architecture of the cathedral is true, that -his Satanic majesty designed it, he certainly did that better than any -of the rest of his works. The exterior is also most pleasing to the eye, -look at it in any way you will, and the spires, the towers, and the -buttresses, with their elaborately carved pinnacles, are ‘things of -beauty,’ never to be forgotten.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span></p> - -<p>In our ramble later in the day through the streets, which seem to be -laid out something like half circles, a little ragamuffin pulled my -dress and asked in German, ‘Can I show you the horses.’ The child’s -dirty face was wan and haggard, so we could not begrudge a few pennies -given him, and I took his hand, which seemed to please him immensely and -on we walked together. ‘There they are,’ said he. And sure enough, -looking from a second story window of an old house are two gray horses, -stuffed, I presume, but their appearance is very life-like. The story -explaining their being there runs like this. The beautiful wife of a -rich man apparently died. The grief of the husband was so intense that -he would allow no one to come near her, and placed her in the tomb -himself, with her rich garments and jewelry on. Thieves went at night to -steal these articles, when at their touch she arose and asked, ‘Where am -I?’ The men, alarmed, ran away at full speed, leaving the doors open, -and the woman, who had only been in a trance, walked out into the -street, and to her husband’s house. She knocked at the door until her -husband was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span> aroused and asked who knocked. She replied, ‘It is I, thy -own Richmodis, thy wife,’ ‘No,’ said he, ‘my wife is dead, and the dead -rise no more; sooner would my two grays trot up the staircase into my -room and look out of the window.’ He immediately heard a noise, and his -two horses came into his room, placed their fore feet on the window sill -and looked out, and there they have been looking ever since. And the -poor wife, let us hope, was received as flesh and blood. Old traditions -and history repeat themselves constantly in these ancient foreign -cities.</p> - -<p>A party of young girls, with their teacher, arrived at our hotel to-day -from Massachusetts, and it was a delight to see their faces and to hear -our own tongue. E. reached us this evening from Bayreuth, filled to the -brim with Wagner, and greatly regretting that we were not there to see -and to hear. Of the latter pleasure we know something from the -exquisitely rendered Parsifal selections given at our own Symphony -Concerts, but to see Parsifal in the home of its composer is a delight -yet to come.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span></p> - -<p><i>August 3d, 1888.</i>—Leaving Cologne, and carrying much cologne with us, -we started at nine o’clock <small>A.M.</small> for Utrecht, turning our faces toward -the cathedral’s spire as long as we could catch a glimpse of it, and -soon we are out of Germany and in Holland. For all the Germans drink so -much beer, we have never seen in the country one intoxicated person, and -who could go far in our own land and say that? ’Tis true, and pity ’tis -’tis true,’ that the poor whiskey deluded Americans drink is many times -more deadly and destructive than beer. Although we have had few -opportunities of seeing the better class of Germans in their homes, we -know that home-life is sweet and sacred to them, and the Germans are -everywhere proverbially honest and their word to be depended upon. Their -country is not only a military one, but it is the nation of music, of -the sciences, and people of all other nations flock here for -instruction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_XII" id="LETTER_XII"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER XII.</h2> -<p><span class="smcap">At</span> Utrecht, our first Holland city, at the station, we had our first -glimpse of a Holland lady in her national costume. She stepped from her -carriage and stood near us for several moments, and in that time, I -fear, we proved to be as good ‘starers’ as the French are. I wish I -could make you see her just as I did. She was a large-framed, -good-looking woman. Her dress skirt was of stiff black satin, in length -considerably above her ankles. She wore a full white waist, over which -she had a jacket, cut the shape of a zouave garment, of black cloth, -upon the front of which seemed to be gilt or gold ornaments, that looked -like military decorations; but her head rigging was the oddest of all. -First she had on a cap-like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> covering, that looked as if made of white -tarleton, with a full front, into which were stuck numerous gold pins, -from the heads of several of which diamonds flashed; a broad gold band -ran from side to side across her forehead, and from each end hung a gold -ornament; over this she wore a flaring straw bonnet. She had on white -kid gloves, and looked and moved every inch a lady.</p> - -<p>We were a good while delayed before being able to get a two-seated -carriage, for everybody in the sleepy old town moved slowly, but after a -while we were furnished with an open barouche and a handsome pair of -slow-moving black horses, and were driven about the city. Utrecht means -‘Old Ford,’ and the place looks quiet and dull, although it has a -beautiful park and many fine, large residences, but they all seemed shut -up; and we came to the conclusion, after a disgusting incident a little -later, of which I will tell you, that the older people were off -travelling.</p> - -<p>On one of the best streets of Utrecht stood a group of well-dressed -children, intelligent and attractive looking. Just as I had finished<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span> a -remark complimentary to them, we were covered, deluged, blinded with mud -and manure thrown at us by these remarkably innocent looking children, -who had grouped there for this very purpose with the dirt in their -hands, coolly awaiting and watching our approach. A second time, in -another part of the city, we were attacked in the same manner by -children, and this time E. rushed from the carriage, so indignant was he -at the coarse outrage; and although both times the children took fast to -their heels, they would have been severely and justly punished if I had -not begged our defender to let them go, and not take up the little time -we had in having them overtaken. Our driver said it was a very common -occurrence for the youth of the town to thus attack strangers. I just -longed to give them a good Yankee chastisement. We visited the -cathedral, and my companions went up into the tower, from which they had -a good view, but I had seen all of Utrecht that I desired, but was -destined to see one more disturbing scene.</p> - -<p>A canal runs through the town, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span> boats are mostly managed and -towed along by women,—old white-haired women lifting and tugging away -at bags and barrels, pulling at the ropes of the boats; and at the rope -of one huge canal boat a <i>woman</i> and a <i>cow</i> were pulling together. The -water in the canal was low and the mosquitoes were high, for they also -attacked us in our carriage, the very first ones we have met with on the -continent. So, after a really good dinner—the only acceptable attention -received by us in Utrecht,—we were glad to push on to Amsterdam.</p> - -<p>Holland is largely a grazing country, very level, with vast pastures -filled with cattle, horses, and sheep, all fine-looking specimens of -their race. At one little station where we waited I stepped close to a -dike, on the other side of which were hundreds of sheep; as if by one -consent they all raised their heads and looked at me in such a human way -that I felt like an intruder, bowed respectfully to them, and retreated. -The Holstein cattle are noble-looking creatures, and the horses of -Holland handsome animals,—dignified steppers, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span>but heavy and slow. -Cattle and horses are all black, or black and white, and all the cats I -have yet seen here are black. I saw four big black tabbies at Utrecht. -We pass through several little Dutch villages, see farmhouses in the -distance, glints of blue water far away, dikes all about us, and, as we -near Amsterdam, big windmills without number. And here we are!</p> - -<p><i>Amsterdam, August 4th, 1888.</i>—Do you remember our old Dutch nurse, who -used to tell me stories, in Pittsburg, Penn., of her home in Amsterdam? -And now here I am to tell you a little about the same place as I see it. -Our first stroll revealed to us one of the queerest, quaintest cities we -had anywhere visited. Directly after breakfast we went to the markets, -where the peasantry were selling fruit, vegetables, fowl, crocheted -articles, plants and flowers, cheese, butter, and much else; the venders -themselves, in their queer dress, being the most attractive of all to -us. The women nearly all wore the queer-looking head-dresses of their -country, although not made up as richly as the one we saw at Utrecht, -and all had on heavy, woollen stockings and wooden shoes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span> and when not -busy otherwise were vigorously knitting.</p> - -<p>From the market we went to the quarters of the poorer class of Jews, -where the streets were narrow, the homes squalid, and the little rooms -fairly crowded with human beings, packed closer than were ever sardines. -In one small, dirty front entry we counted sixteen children. Our -carriage was surrounded, every time we stopped, by crowds of lookers-on, -young and old, tattered and torn, but all behaved well. ‘How true it is -that one half of the world knows not how the other half lives’, There -are about thirty thousand Jews in this city,—many richer than kings, -and many who know not ‘where to lay their heads.’</p> - -<p>Acquaintances who have visited this city have given me different ideas -of it, more disparaging it than praising, but I find it delightful, and -filled with interest.</p> - -<p>Amsterdam, now the capital of Holland, you know, and by far its richest -city, was in the twelfth century only a small village. When the -Spaniards persecuted the so-called Reformers of other Dutch and Flemish -towns,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> they fled to Amsterdam, taking with them their riches and their -industries, and to them the place owes the beginning of prosperity. The -River Amstel divides the place, the one side being called the Oude Zijde -(old side), and the other Nieuwe Zijde (new side). It is said that -ninety canals intersect the city, and I know there is one in about every -street, and drawbridges are built over them. In the prettier parts of -the city these canals have avenues of handsome residences, and lines of -shade trees on one or both sides. On these houses, nailed close to the -side of the upper windows, we observed the so-called ‘Spiegless’ -mirrors—on hinges, which could be turned so as to allow a person -sitting within to see all that was going on in the street below, up or -down. They answer the purposes of our bay-windows. In some of the older -parts of the city the queer Dutch houses are painted black, with white -trimmings, and were apparently ‘dropped down’ together, and remain -wherever they happened to light, Marblehead-like; and in many of them -the upper story pitches forward, as if to greet the opposite roof, in a -most neighborly and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span> social manner, and altogether they are exceedingly -picturesque.</p> - -<p>We visited one of the large diamond factories, and saw every process -used on the stone in its rough condition, to cause it to become the -glittering, costly gem, ready for the adornment of ‘my lady.’ The -different work upon the stones was to me intensely interesting. We saw -little mounds of diamonds, cut and polished, ready for the diamond -market, that were radiantly brilliant. The gentleman who escorted us -through the building was very polite, and exerted himself to give us -clear explanations of everything we wished to understand. Two officials -kept pretty close to us, however; they may have thought that ‘piles’ of -diamonds might prove too seductive for even American honesty. These -mills give employment to about ten thousand workmen, mostly Jews, and -many of the establishments are owned by wealthy Jews. Most of the best -cut stones of the present age have been cut here. Well, we cannot always -live amongst diamonds, so out into the air we go, for if but one can be -ours, the latter is better,—oxygen rather than carbon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span></p> - -<p>The commerce of the place is extensive, as a visit to the docks proved. -Ships from nearly every part of the world bring merchandise here, and -take back the products of Holland. Amsterdam cheese, gin, and chocolate -we well know, but we did not suppose so many other valuable articles -were manufactured here. We see not merely one woman at work here on the -boats, but hundreds of women. Many of them know no other home; whole -families live on boats, children are born on them, and on them many -human beings close their eyes on this life. Everything about these boats -is scrupulously clean; pretty Dutch girls, with their short dresses and -wooden shoes, peep from behind the fresh, white muslin curtains to look -at us; and women who are not doing harder work sit around with the -inevitable queer head-dress on, and the blue kerchiefs pinned across -their breasts, knitting away as if lives depended upon stockings being -finished. These Amsterdam canal boats have sails, and look very odd to -us.</p> - -<p>We took a three-mile sail for a rest, then landed, and lunched in a -rose-embowered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> arbor in a pretty garden. Refreshed, we took a barge -back, thus getting good views of the river banks; and next went to the -Zoological Gardens, the best we have seen anywhere. How the beautiful, -bright-plumaged birds, walking and flying in the open air, seemingly -free from the almost invisible chains that held them, welcomed us in -their gorgeous costumes; how the tall flamingo showed us his best ballet -steps,—I have not time to give you details. The extensive aquarium -connected with the gardens contained a wealth of wonders. Why do we not -have places of such interest in Boston? As we stepped out of the garden -we observed, on a neat-looking house, a singular sign, ‘Hot Popjies.’ -With our usual curiosity we entered, and found that ‘popjies’ were -nothing more or less than genuine Yankee griddle cakes, and very good -ones too, served with butter and sugar.</p> - -<p>The best picture gallery in Amsterdam, the Rijks Museum, is the best in -Holland. Here we saw Rembrandt’s ‘Night Watch,’ of which we have often -seen engravings, but were not prepared for such beautiful effects of -colors as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span> we found in the original. Near this painting is a still -larger one, representing a celebrated banquet of the City Guard of -Amsterdam, in 1684, by Vander Heist, and here too is Jan Steen’s ‘Lady -and the Parrot,’ and other beautiful paintings by this pleasing artist. -One picture here, by Gerard Duow, called the ‘Evening School,’ cost -forty thousand dollars, although not over a half-yard long, and not -measuring as much across. This painting has five or six different -effects of light produced on it from the burning candles represented. A -girl is pointing to her lesson with her finger, and a boy is writing on -a slate; a candle, held by another girl standing back of them, throws a -light on their backs, and another candle, lighted, which is on a table, -throws light upon their faces, but it would be impossible for you to -imagine the peculiar glow and loveliness of it all. All of the works -from this man’s easel are charming. There are here several of Paul -Potter’s paintings, wonderful in execution, and particularly to be -considered so when we think how young he must have been when he painted -them. Here are hens, chickens,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span> geese, and ducks, all so natural that we -almost hear their cackle. Here are landscapes, interiors of Dutch homes, -and portraits without number, works of Tenier, Van Mieris, Van Dyck, -Peter Schilder, Dolens, Frans Hals, and the many other Dutch artists. It -is one of the most enjoyable collections of pictures we have anywhere -seen. It is a marvel to me how the old masters and the noted artists -ever did so much work; they must have gone right ahead, and not even -laid down their brushes long enough to have had pleasant little disputes -over the hanging of their pictures. But thanks to them for having left -to us such great sources of pleasure!</p> - -<p>Amsterdam abounds in excellent charitable institutions. I think I could -name over as many as there are in Boston; and there are schools and -societies for educating the poor, and for their advancement, that do -great credit to the citizens. I am told that the rich here of every sect -spend freely their money for the benefit of the poor. There is a palace -on a square called the Dam, in the middle of the city, containing large -rooms, but without much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span> elegance excepting the ball-room. The churches -of the city are numerous, and some fine ones, but as we have not time to -see everything in this remarkable place, we have decided to omit the -churches this time.</p> - -<p>We were told of a ‘swell’ restaurant, and for a change dined there -to-day. It was a ‘swell’ place, we had a ‘swell’ dinner, and paid -‘swell’ prices. They certainly know how to tempt one’s appetite, but the -submitting to the temptation must be generously paid for. We have seen a -fine statue of Rembrandt; and we have observed objects very new to us, -which are queer, ludicrous-looking faces, over the doors of drug stores, -with mouths wide open, and tongues protruding, as if to show that they -were coated, or feverish, and needed doctoring. I was so amused at these -that I asked the meaning of them, if they had any, but no one seemed to -know, only that they were called ‘Gappers.’</p> - -<p>After seeing pretty thoroughly the business part of the city, we were -more surprised than ever upon being driven to the aristocratic end, -where the wealthier people live, to find so much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span> beauty. The streets -were broad and finely cared for; the residences palatial, large, and -varied in architecture, with beautiful grounds about them. Fine -carriages abounded, filled with well-dressed people, in whom we supposed -we saw the descendants of the Van Dycks, Van de Werffs, and all of the -other Vans; and these families maintain much elegance and regal style in -living. In this drive we had many glimpses of it; and ended the day by -being entertained right royally in one of these beautiful homes by a -gentleman and his charming family, to whom we had letters of -introduction, and who had previously called upon us, and engaged us for -the evening. If we could have spared time to accept, these people would -have extended many courtesies to us, and their cordial hospitality we -shall never forget. The whole of Amsterdam is indeed delightful, and far -exceeds my expectations. We leave it with regret. We made hasty -excursions to Haarlem, to see the wonderful hyacinths and tulips; and to -the over-clean town of Broek, where notices are put on doors ‘to take -off your shoes before entering;’ and to the Island of Marken, in the -Zuider Zee, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span> see the queer dress of the peasants who live there, and -never leave their homes, nor ever intermarry with the inhabitants of the -mainland. Their costume is the same as that worn by their ancestors of a -hundred years ago.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_XIII" id="LETTER_XIII"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER XIII.</h2> -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Hotel Vieux Doelen</span>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">The Hague, Holland</span>, <i>August 6th, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">In</span> coming from Amsterdam here we saw water-lilies—sheets of them—on -rivers and dikes! Yes, just like our own New England blossoms. How I did -want the cars to stop, so that I could get a breath of their -fragrance—a breath of Cape Cod—a breath of Plymouth ponds—a breath of -East Taunton’s sweetest offerings! We saw storks too, tall and stately, -carrying with them good luck, and bearing good omens. Our hotel here is -a noted one; it is several centuries old, and has been always the -stopping place for members of noble families, travelling from all over -the world. It has been several times restored, and is very comfortable. -Peter the Great and his suite,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span> King Don Ferdinand of Portugal, and a -list, as long as your arm, of kings, princes, and dukes, have been -registered as guests in this historic old mansion. On our arrival the -house was crowded, and to F. and myself was given the state guest -chamber, in which these crowned heads have rested. The furniture of the -large room, which is on the first floor, is massive, made of mahogany, -ebony and gilt, with light-blue silk coverings, and puffs of light-blue -silk to throw over our tired bodies. So much elegance for us, while E. -is tucked up under the roof somewhere, so full is the house.</p> - -<p>After arranging our luggage in our room, and resting a wee bit, off we -started for Scheveningen. It took but a short time to reach this -celebrated watering-place by steam-cars, which we took to save time. As -we stepped out of our car at the station a strange picture greeted us. -There before us was the North Sea, throwing its big waves toward the -beach—the first glimpse of sea that we had had for many a day, and its -roar was music to us. The broad beach was smooth, hard, and white, and -at this point was covered, as were also the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span> dunes in back of it, with -the peasantry, Dutch women and children, old grandmothers, and mothers -with their little ones of all ages, playing in the beautiful white sand. -We spread our wraps on the beach, and sat down amongst them and we are -evidently as strange a sight to them, as they are to us. The wee urchins -gradually approach us in a shy manner, but E. coaxes them nearer by -distributing bits of coin amongst them, and speaking words which they -understand; and a close look at their sweet, fresh faces is worth the -price. These little ones are fair, rosy-cheeked, blue-eyed tots, with -long, flaxen tresses, surmounted by little, close, white caps. They are -dressed alike, in dark-blue dresses, with little handkerchiefs crossed -on their chests, and all wear wooden shoes. The costumes of old and -young vary but little, and all look fresh and clean. The women were -knitting, and chatting with each other, and occasionally one would go -toward the water, hold her hands over her eyes, and peer far out to sea. -They were straining their sight to catch glimpses of the boats that -carried the men most dear to them. These<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span> wives and mothers come -mornings with their fishermen, push them out on the water in their boats -with a ‘God speed you,’ and then stay on the beach, with their children -and their knitting, until the men sail in again. They then help drag the -boats on shore, unload, and carry the freshly caught fish to market. The -lucky fellow who has caught the greatest number of fish as his day’s -work is entitled to kiss the maid he thinks the prettiest in the crowd, -and the rest look on and clap their hands, and there seems to be no -jealousy amongst them. The Dutch fishing boats, with their brown sails, -are queer-looking craft, and have been painted by many of our own -artists. The beach from here extends for about forty miles, I am told, -in a straight line, washed by the cold North Sea waves—without rocks or -inlets.</p> - -<p>We next proceeded to the fashionable end of the beach; a division rope -separates the portion allotted to the fisherwomen from this. What will -divide the poor from the rich in heaven, I wonder? Will it not be Father -Abraham’s voice only, when he says the words,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span> ‘Remember that thou in -thy lifetime receivedst thy good things’? How different this scene! Here -is a fashionable watering-place, with huge hotels, restaurants, stores, -and crowds of stylish people. This is more like Old Point, Narragansett, -or Newport than anything we have before seen. But the beach is superior -to any of these, and the bathing-wagons on wheels, in which the bathers -are carried to the water, and back to the hotels after their baths, were -quite new to us. They contain all toilet utensils, an abundance of -towels, and are most certainly a great improvement over the way bathers -at our own sea-side resorts come out of the water, with dripping -costumes clinging to the skin, to face a crowd of lookers-on. Here, too, -a space for those who bathe is roped off, and others are not allowed to -go within that enclosure. The bath-chairs were also a great delight to -me. Here were hundreds of them, basket-work, with covers and without, -and footstools added, in which we could sit and look upon the sea, -protected from the sun and the wind. Some were for one, and in others -two or three could sit together. The sense of rest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> was most delightful -in these chairs, with the broad, blue expanse of water and sky before -us. Gay, merry children were riding about on ponies and donkeys, and the -road between the hotels and the beach was filled with carriages and -people on horseback.</p> - -<p>But the hours flew rapidly amidst such scenes as these, and the sun was -going to rest; so, reluctantly, we turned our steps toward the big hotel -on the crest. The piazzas were crowded with people in full dress, but, -with our travelling gowns on, we mixed in, and went to dinner. In the -house was a beautiful hall or concert room, and after dinner the -Philharmonic Orchestra of Berlin gave a choice concert there. The music -was superb, and nowhere in Europe had we seen so fine-looking an -assemblage; many of the ladies were remarkably handsome, and all were -dressed in excellent taste.</p> - -<p><i>Hotel Vieux Doelen, The Hague, August 7th.</i>—You would have laughed had -you been with us in our fine room this morning. Our commode looks like a -sideboard, and is so high that I had to stand on a chair to take my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span> -morning splash; and as I began to fill my bowl with water, something -jumped, and so did I. ‘The shade of Peter the Great!’ said F., but it -was only a little, harmless toad, which had probably come in at the -window, which I had left open. The arrangements for bathing and washing -in houses in this land are very meagre and inconvenient.</p> - -<p>The Hague seems a very elegant, sleepy, quiet city. The streets are -broad, many of them bordered with handsome limes, and the residences are -large and square. Canals are here, also, but do not seem to be used -much, if any, and the water looks stagnant. In one street, the odor from -the canal was very offensive, although the streets on its borders were -beautiful ones, and this is the residence of the Court; in fact, the -place has really the appearance of an exclusive little royal city -dropped in the centre of a grand old forest. It has pretty parks and -gardens, and a pleasant promenade around a lake, called the Vijver, or -fish pond, from the water of which the old palace seems to be rising. In -the square is the statue of William the Silent, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> did so much to -effect the liberty of Holland, and who was a father to its people. This -brave man’s faith never failed him, nor did he ever swerve from what -seemed to him his duty, through political storms or discouraging -defeats; freedom for all, and the right to worship God in accordance -with the dictates of one’s own conscience he fought for as long as he -lived. In Delft, a little town near by, he was struck down by an -assassin.</p> - -<p>The best stores here have very little appearance, from the outside, of -being stores at all. Perhaps, as a sign, there is one elegant vase, or a -choice piece of drapery in the window; but upon stepping within, room -after room filled with exquisite goods surprises you—rare laces, china, -furniture, antiques, and everything else beautiful to tempt one to buy.</p> - -<p>I very much wished to go into the palace where the King of Holland and -his family live. We have seen many palaces where royalty has resided, -but few occupied by kings and queens at the present time. We succeeded -in gaining permission to do so, not expecting to see more than the state -apartments.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> As we neared the palace entrance we saw the royal carriage -stop at the door and the King and Queen and their little daughter the -Princess Wilhelmine, with a maid, enter it. The carriage was a heavy, -lumbering-looking affair with two horses only. We might have been much -nearer them, but our escort said no, as an introduction might then be -necessary, and it was no compliment to American ladies to be presented -to the present King of Holland, but I looked with all my eyes and this -is what I saw: A man, over seventy years old surely, feeble-appearing in -his gait, and, although not bad looking, with a certain tell-tale -appearance of having led a somewhat profligate life. The young Queen -Emma looks about twenty-eight, has a full face, bright complexion, and -pleasant expression, and was dressed in a gray costume. She is, you -know, his second wife, and a daughter of the Prince of Waldeck-Pyrmont, -one of the poor, insignificant sovereigns of Germany, and she is sister -to the Duchess of Albany, the daughter-in-law of Queen Victoria. It is -said there was much feeling on the part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> Dutch against this young -woman at first, for it was thought her great ambition was to be Queen of -the Netherlands; but she has made her way into the hearts of the people, -and has proved also a good wife and mother. The King’s first wife was -the Princess Sophia of Wurtemburg, and was a remarkably talented, -gracious woman, a fine linguist, musical, a charming conversationalist, -unaffected, affable in manner, and dearly beloved by her people. She -died about ten years ago. She had two sons, both now dead. So the little -Wilhelmine, whom we saw, will be, after her father’s death, which cannot -be far off, the Queen of Holland. She is a pretty child, and looked in -dress and movements no different from hundreds of our own little -eight-year-old girls. The people here seem to be much attached to their -king, and say he has been a benefactor to them, and that his public life -has been beyond reproach, whatever his faults in private life may have -been.</p> - -<p>As they drove away we entered the palace through the same door at which -they came out, and were most kindly shown through it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span> Their -breakfast-table remained just as the family had left it after taking -their morning meal. Probably servants do not hurry ‘to clear off the -table’ in royal households, any more than they do in our own homes when -we go out for a morning jaunt. Everything in the dining-room was rich -and elegant, and the gold breakfast-service worth looking at. The -drawing-rooms, reception-rooms, libraries, and other apartments were in -truth palatial, and altogether it was by far the finest palace we have -seen.</p> - -<p>They have another palace about three miles away, called -‘Huis-ten-Bosch,’ or House in the Wood, to which a little later we were -driven; and it was a drive, the memory of which will always seem -restful. The day was lovely, and as we rolled along over the splendid -road in the woods, which is really an immense, woody park, retaining all -its natural beauties, it was so quiet that we could hear a leaf fall. -The birds only broke the stillness with their occasional trills, and we -met no life on our way excepting a party of ladies on horseback with -their groom. After so much bustle the restful,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span> shadowy stillness was -delightful to us. This summer palace is a plain building surrounded by -beech trees, is very richly furnished, and contains valuable pictures -and rare, costly ornaments, superb draperies, and curiosities. Queen -Sophia dearly loved this ‘Huis-ten-Bosch,’ and spent much of her time -within it. Here she cordially welcomed her friends, without ceremony, -forgetful of station and self, ever keenly alive to the happiness and -needs of all who came into her presence. She once remarked ‘that God -seemed nearer to her here than elsewhere.’ The present Queen seldom -comes here.</p> - -<p>We next went into the Holland Exposition, now open. O dear! the days are -not half long enough to see all we wish to. You will be glad, I know, -when I tell you that we do not get very tired. We ride instead of -walking much, so as to save our strength for interiors where we must -walk and stand; and we eat often, for E. says ‘machinery so constantly -run must be often oiled.’ How I wish I could run in to ‘144’ to-day and -have one of their delicious home dinners,—roast chickens, all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span> kind of -vegetables, prepared just right, jellies and pickles, and all at hand -when wanted, and, not the least of the sweets, the always sweet welcome, -thrown in! We do get so tired of these table d’hôte dinners,—every dish -served without any seasoning, and only one at a time, and the waits -between courses long enough for one’s hair to grow gray. And yet what -creatures of habit we are. E. likes it, because he has lived over here -so much of his life that he has become accustomed to it. It is a -perverted taste, and most surely a great waste of precious time. Our -bill of fare for dinner has been just about the same every day since we -left the Schweizerhoff at Schaffhausen, where it was most acceptably -varied.</p> - -<p>To show that we can be wrongly educated in our appreciation of food and -in the way we eat it, I will venture to tell you a true story of a -little boy we know, who had lived in France and Germany the greater part -of his life of ten years. He was taken to New York a year or so ago, and -there studied English with his governess. One fine day his aunt took him -to her home in the country to spend the day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span> When he returned at night -he said he was hungry. ‘Why, did you not have any dinner?’ he was asked. -‘I did not eat any.’ ‘Why not?’ ‘I did not want it.’ ‘Why not?’ was -again asked, curiosity becoming excited. At last the little fellow, so -closely questioned, cried out in despair, in his broken English, -‘Because Auntie had “swill” for dinner.’ Upon investigation it was -ascertained that the dinner was the old-fashioned, substantial one of -corned beef and its satellites of various vegetables served at the same -time. The boy, the day before, had been reading a story about pigs, in -which the word ‘swill’ was used. He asked his teacher what that word -meant,—an inelegant one at best,—and she told him, a little hastily -perhaps, that it meant bits of meat, potato, turnip, or other particles -of food all thrown together; and he thought, in his day’s visit, that he -had an ocular and tangible demonstration of the definition.</p> - -<p><i>The Hague, Wednesday, August 8th.</i>—The memorables of to-day: First, -the Royal Picture Gallery, where are many costly and valuable treasures. -I have anticipated much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span> pleasure in seeing the collection here, knowing -well of many of the paintings, and I have not been disappointed. -Rembrandt’s ‘Lecture on Anatomy,’ known of the world over, is a -wonderful study, and a grand representation of death and life on canvas. -The old learned doctor Nicholas Tulp, with a dead body before him, is -explaining to seven other surgeons the dissecting of the subject. These -faces are all real portraits of physicians, and the expressions of -interest and attention given in them to the lecturer’s words and -movements are grandly and wonderfully portrayed. Nor is there the -slightest thing repulsive in the picture; on the contrary, it has the -effect of making one desirous of sitting down to listen to the lesson -also. Here too is Rembrandt’s ‘Presentation,’ a perfect gem: Joseph and -Mary are presenting the ‘Holy Child’ for a blessing. Paul Potter’s -famous ‘Bull’ is here, which Napoleon once stole and took to Paris, and -it was then rated as the fourth picture in the Louvre, but after -Napoleon’s star of power had set the Dutch reclaimed it. This picture -represents a bull, looking as if really alive, standing under<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span> the -branches of a tree; a cow, and a lamb with its parents, are also near by -resting, and a pleasant-faced old farmer, standing with his arm on the -trunk of the tree, is looking on well satisfied. These figures are life -size, and are full of vigor. Although the collection here does not -please me as much as the one in Amsterdam, it contains many gems of the -Dutch and Flemish schools. Here are Berghems, Van Der Helsts, and -Ruysdaels—mellow landscapes and restful pastoral scenes, helpful to -look upon. But oh, I wish you could see all the grand paintings that are -in this country! It pains me, dear mother, to enjoy so much and you not -with me; but we shall not forget all we see, and will tell you more -about it sometime.</p> - -<p>Storks are kept in the city at the public expense, as they are the arms -of The Hague, the same as bears are of the city of Berne. And now, -good-by to this aristocratic town, and on to Rotterdam, our last Holland -city.</p> - -<p>Rotterdam is something like Amsterdam, although not nearly as -attractive, nor anywhere nearly as clean. It is a large place, and its -shipping interests considerable; its canals and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span> wharves are crowded. -Here, as in Amsterdam, the houses are, many of them, built on piles, and -the land is kept land by keeping the water in the canals, locks, and -basins. It requires much money, good systems, and much energy to do -this, but the Dutch have proved themselves equal to it. We hear here -such names as the ‘Hoogstraat’ (one of the streets), the ‘Schiedamsche -dyke,’ etc., regular jaw-breakers. In fact, I think if Americans can -understand or be understood in Holland, they need have no fears of not -being able to travel in other parts of the globe, so far as ‘language’ -is concerned.</p> - -<p>We took a drive through the new portion of the city, where are many -elegant residences. We went into two churches; saw a fine statue of -Erasmus the scholar, also one of Spinoza. We then went into many of the -old, crooked, narrow streets of the older part of the city, called -Binnenstad, and here everything looked very ‘Dutch’ like; and it is the -queer aspect of these foreign cities that I particularly enjoy,—the -markets on market-day especially. The peasants at their stalls, in the -funny gowns and funnier head-dresses, are perfectly fascinating. We -bought delicious cherries and strawberries<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> of them to-day. Some of the -women had caps on that had long capes, others with caps close to the -head, and others with inside frills, but one and all had the gold, gilt, -or silver band across the forehead, and the wire rosettes and pendants -at the temples.</p> - -<p>We talked up our little stock of Dutch history here, remembering that it -was in this town that the Puritans of England, when persecuted, fled for -refuge; and here ‘John Robinson [one of our own ancestors] fired them -with longings for liberty, and they set sail to go across two seas to -find a new home where they would have freedom to worship God.’ What an -amount of studying we will do next winter, and Motley’s ‘Rise of the -Dutch Republic’ we are looking forward to reading with much pleasure.</p> - -<p>Our admiration of the Dutch, always great, is much increased by this -trip through their country. When one sees the obstacles they had to -contend against in making their land habitable—old ocean itself for -one,—and the victory they have achieved, it seems more wonderful even -than their conquering the tyranny of Spain. They are an industrious, -persevering, and honest people.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_XIV" id="LETTER_XIV"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER XIV.</h2> -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Hotel de l’Europe,<br /> -Antwerp, Belgium</span>, <i>August 9, 1888</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> reached here last night in time to take a look at this old city and -to hear the ringing of ‘bells, bells, bells.’ We thought at first they -were ringing on account of our arrival, or for some other unusual -occasion, but find we were mistaken. The bells of Antwerp are ringing -always. We find at our hotel the M.’s, our pleasant Chamouni friends, -and it was a pleasant surprise indeed to have them meet and greet us; -also Rev. Mr. G., of Boston.</p> - -<p>Immediately after breakfast this morning we started for Brussels. We -made every effort to have an early breakfast and have it quickly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> -served, but the people of this land never hurry; they do not know the -meaning of the word. At eight <small>A.M.</small> we were seated at our table in the -dining-room ready to eat, and had ordered our breakfast prepared one -hour before, but there was nothing ready for us. ‘Will you hurry up our -breakfast?’ said E. to our sleepy-looking waiter. Slowly he answered, -‘It is cooking,’ in his own lingo. Ten minutes go by. Another nod to the -stolid waiter; and in tones of entreaty, accompanied with a piece of -money, E. said, ‘Will you not bring us something to eat?’ The man, still -standing as stiff as a post, replied, ‘It is coming.’ ‘But we leave at -eleven o’clock,’ said E. in the man’s own language. But the stupid -Belgian did not see the joke, and did not relax a muscle.</p> - -<p>We have had a delightful day in Brussels, and modern Brussels is a -beautiful city and in many ways much like Paris. It has broad, handsome -streets and boulevards, beautiful parks, squares and gardens, with many -rich statues, monuments, artificial lakes and fountains. The city is -built on and up and down a hill—the new and elegant part of Brussels<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> -on top, and the old and poorer part at the foot. The royal family of -Belgium live here, and have several handsome palaces. The Capitol is a -magnificent structure, and there are many noted churches; we went into -several of them, but of all these things I shall not now tell you very -much.</p> - -<p>Service is always going on in some one part of these European -cathedrals. In one that we stepped into to-day they were celebrating -funeral rites, and before us were placed some painful paintings of -Christ, showing his bleeding wounds. The Cathedral of St. Gudule is the -largest and finest, and contains a great numbex of perfectly magnificent -tapestries.</p> - -<p>We went into the largest art gallery in the city, where are many choice -works, and we greatly enjoyed them; but here too are more of Rubens’ -plump angels, of anything but angelic proportions, and I am sure if our -Sunday-school children at home should see some of them they would never -sing, ‘I want to be an angel,’ any more. Here are more of Tennier’s -beautiful productions, and fine pictures by Vander Weyden, Rhemi, Vander -Meulen, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span> other noted Flemish artists, and the collections give good -opportunities for studying the Flemish schools.</p> - -<p>But the laces! These laces are the most tempting of all things. We go -into houses that on the outside look like private homes, and are -politely asked to be seated at tables, when the women in attendance take -from boxes and drawers their stores of rich fabrics and spread them out -for our eyes to feast upon: flounces, handkerchiefs, fichus, capes, -collars, all of the finest make and of most exquisite designs. In the -Royal Lace Manufactory we saw the bridal trousseau of some noble lady, -so called, which was just completed, and the dress, made entirely of the -finest duchesse lace, was a marvel of loveliness. We were taken into the -rooms where the women were making the ‘dentelles,’ and after seeing -their methods we shall never again wonder that duchesse and point laces -are such costly fabrics. Nearly all the most valuable laces of the world -are made here, and many women spend their entire lives in making a piece -of lace to ornament some other woman made of the same perishable dust<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> -as themselves and of whom they are the equals. Ah me! We spent a short -time in the Belgium Exposition, now open, and never before did I see in -any one collection such a wilderness of rich, beautiful objects. A drive -about the charming city, a short stop in the Botanical Gardens, and we -are soon on the road back to Antwerp, with mingled thoughts of the -paintings, gems, and laces back of us, and of Bonaparte and Waterloo, -and the historic ground we are travelling over. We will save more time, -and more money too, for Brussels in our next trip.</p> - -<p><i>Antwerp, Friday, August 10th.</i>—This has been a rainy day, but we ought -not to complain, for we have had but few of them. We have been out all -the day, and have seen this old city pretty thoroughly, although many -parts of it now have a modern look. Yet numerous old historic landmarks -remain. I hope you will not get weary of hearing about art and artists, -for we are in the land of Rubens and in the very cradle of art here. We -saw to-day the house Rubens lived and died in. He is buried in the -church of St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> Jacques, as are also his two wives. In this church is the -picture of his ‘Virgin and Child,’ with several other figures on the -canvas, all said to be likenesses of members of his family. In the -museum are many works of all the noted old masters of the Dutch and -Flemish school—for Antwerp gave birth to a long list of them—and here -their works are treasured. Here is the noted ‘Le Christ à la -Paille’—Christ dead, lying on a stone strewed with straw; and here too -is Vandyk’s ‘Saviour on the Cross,’ which tells the whole sublime story. -Of the more modern pictures, Lady Godiva is worthy of mention. The flesh -tints are exquisite. She is represented as just letting drop a curtain, -which is of a bright, warm color, and her attitude is so graceful that -one looks at her again and again. Of the many exquisite paintings we -have seen here, I will tell you when I see you, which will not be long -now, God willing.</p> - -<p>At noon it held up a little, so we took a drive about the town. Antwerp -is the stronghold of Belgium, and there are immense fortifications about -the city. The town has known<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> great vicissitudes, and in old times -terrible religious persecutions, but it is now in a most prosperous -condition, and trades with all the large mercantile cities of the world, -as the piles of all kinds of merchandise we saw at the wharves proved to -us. The beautiful double-width black silks are manufactured here, and -can be purchased at low prices. The shops are fine, and present a -tempting display of articles.</p> - -<p>I must tell you of a laughable incident that occurred to-day. E. and F. -were walking in front of me, I lingering to look in the store windows, -and carrying not only my own wrap, but one for F. also, over my arm. Two -fine-looking ladies paused to look at us, for you must remember we are -known as foreigners everywhere. One turned to the other and said, ‘Look, -two foreign travellers and the lady’s-maid!’ I carry no more wraps!</p> - -<p>Now, of only one more joy shall I tell you. The cathedral and its -contents! We had looked again and again at its tall, graceful, delicate -spire, rising high above the houses, and we had heard its sweet, soft -bells before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span> going in. But now we have seen its inside walls and the -glories they hold. The interior of the edifice is comparatively cold and -barren, but the paintings within are delightful and surprise enough for -a life-time. I forgive Rubens for his unangel-like angels, that I have -not liked, for these wonderful works here of his surpass anything on -canvas I have ever seen. I was expecting to behold something unusual in -‘The Descent from the Cross,’ but not prepared for anything so -miraculously beautiful and sublime. I could not tell to mortal my -sensations upon first beholding this painting. I wonder now if it was a -painting! There was Christ dead! His beautiful, pathetic face looked as -if he had suffered, but it is now full of spiritualized peace and rest. -Mary’s sorrowful face, at his feet, is wet with her falling tears. The -loving and beloved John is near, and Magdalen extends her arms to take -the body of her dead Master. These faces are all exquisite, sadly so, -and yet one seems to see in them an expression of trustfulness, a -spiritual hope, as if they saw something beyond the unspeakable sadness -of the hour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a>{289}</span> The figure of our Saviour is touchingly real. The drooping -of the precious head—the muscles relaxed—it is all Death; and never, -before or since has the great, sad tragedy been so sublimely told. The -colors are wonderful—rich, mellow, and harmonious; and we leave the -cathedral with tears in our eyes, thinking only of Christ crucified, and -for us.</p> - -<p><i>Antwerp, August 11th.</i>—My dear ——: My last words to you from a -foreign land! We are shopping, packing, speaking our adieux, for to-day -at three <small>P.M.</small> the Nordland sails, and we turn our faces toward our -native land. We are glad to go, and we are sorry to leave.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LETTER_XV" id="LETTER_XV"></a> -<br /><img src="images/illus_chapters.png" -alt="[Decorative image unavailable.]" -/> -<br />LETTER XV.</h2> -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">On Shipboard.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> first hours on board were busy ones, making our state-room seem -home-like, decorating it with little souvenirs, and disposing boxes and -bundles in out-of-the-way corners. Placing in vases lovely flowers, -which friendly hands had placed in ours, with best wishes for a ‘Bon -voyage.’ As glimpses of the chalk-cliffs of England could be caught in -the distance, we turned our faces toward that shore, with loving -thoughts of one dear to us, whom we leave on British soil. ‘We were -a-hungered, and he gave us meat; strangers, and he took us in,’ and God -cares for such, and He will protect.</p> - -<p>After a good night’s rest, for the next<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span> few days out it seemed enough -for us to sit silent, as silent as women can be, and think. Think of all -the wonderful sights we had seen, and carefully store them away in -memory’s niche for future enjoyment. Think, too, of home and the loved -ones there, and bless the steamer’s big wheel, whose every turn carried -us nearer to them.</p> - -<p>Amongst our pleasant fellow-voyagers we have Rev. Mr. G——r, of the -‘Old South;’ who is, if not all Boston, a valued bit of it. Prof. -Berlitz is also one of us, and adds to his many accomplishments a -knowledge of ‘mal de mer’ in all languages.</p> - -<p>We have had head winds, and much stormy weather, but we are glad to have -a chance given us to see old ocean in all her varied moods, and can -scarcely say in which we like her best.</p> - -<p><i>New York, America, August 24th, 1888.</i>—On land again! Our good steamer -brought us safely over. ‘Slow, but sure’ was her motto.</p> - -<p>Our sailing into New York harbor at just sunset, with the gorgeous -colors of the western<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span> sky, and the purest blue above our heads, was to -us a pretty welcome; and, with hearts full of gratitude, we joined -voices in singing—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘My country! ’tis of thee,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Sweet land of liberty.’<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In a few hours more we shall be steaming toward the dear old -‘hub’—Boston—home; and shall soon be with you, dear mother, my queen -of queens. But our pleasure in anticipation is not entirely painless, -for here we part with one of our trio, whose kindly care of us, for the -last few months, has added greatly to our happiness.</p> - -<p><i>Boston, August 27th.</i>—Europe, in many ways, is delightful, and the -memories of our perfect trip will certainly be a joy to us forever; but -we wonder that any American can choose expatriation, for we return from -all the fascinations of the ‘other side’—certainly enjoyed and seen at -their best—thanking God that we are free American citizens. Some one -has said that ‘different descriptions of the same countries are ever -like old coats turned.’ And George Macdonald writes, ‘Fact, at best, is -but a garment<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span> of truth, which has ten thousand changes of raiment, -woven in the same loom.’ Many a made-over article gives enjoyment and -satisfaction. If my words give these to my readers I am satisfied.</p> -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Finis.</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus_305.png" height="500" alt="Extracts from -J. G. Cupples Co.’s -List - -Boston, Mass." title="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus_306.png" width="120" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span></p> - -<hr style="width: 45%;" /> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Recent Publications of</span></p> - -<p class="c">J. G. CUPPLES CO.,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Publishers, General Booksellers, Printers, and Stationers</span>, <i>94 Boylston -Street, Boston, Mass.</i></p> - -<p>⁂ <span class="smcap">Note.</span>—<i>In order to insure the correct delivery of the actual works, -or particular Editions specified in this List, the name of the -Publishers should be distinctly given. These books can be had from any -local bookseller; but should any difficulty be experienced in procuring -them, Messrs. J. G. CUPPLES CO. will be happy to forward them direct, -postage paid, on receipt of cheque, stamps, or postal order for the -amount.</i></p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"><i>TWO VOLUMES OF TRAVEL.</i></p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">GLIMPSES OF NORSELAND</span>. <span class="smcap">By Hetta M. Hervey.</span> With many illustrations -of exceptional value. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, gilt top. $1.25.</p> - -<p>A breezy book about Norway, its people and its places, its fjords and -fjelds. A critical notice says:—“The book is not pretentious. Miss -Hervey has sought to tell in a direct, simple way the story of her -wanderings in Norway, and to describe some of the strange sights of that -romantic land. But she has avoided dulness, the bane of thousands of -books of travel, while many of the passages are strikingly well -done.”—Again, “She has recorded her experiences in exactly the manner -which makes her book pleasurable and fascinating reading.”</p> -<hr /> - -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">TEN DAYS IN THE JUNGLE.</span> A journey in the far East by an American -lady. By J. E. L. With vignette. 1 vol. 16mo. Cloth. $1.00.</p> - -<p>An interesting and entertaining description of travel through the -Straits of Malacca, with pictures of life and scenery in the adjacent -British Colonies of Singapore and Pulo-Penang.</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"><i>BY JAMES H. STARK.</i></p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">ANTIQUE VIEWS OF YE TOWNE OF BOSTON</span>. By <span class="smcap">James H. Stark</span>. Assisted by -Dr. <span class="smcap">Samuel A. Green</span>, Ex-Mayor of Boston, Librarian of the -Massachusetts Historical Society; <span class="smcap">John Ward Dean</span>, Librarian of the -New England Historic Genealogical Society; and Judge <span class="smcap">Mellen -Chamberlain</span>, of the Public Library. <i>An extensive and exhaustive -work in 378 pages. Large quarto. Illustrated with nearly 200 full -size reproductions of all known rare maps, old prints, etc. 1 vol. -4to. Cloth. $6.00.</i></p> -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">BERMUDA GUIDE.</span> A description of everything on or about the Bermuda -Islands, concerning which the visitor or resident may desire -information, including its history, inhabitants, climate, -agriculture, geology, government, military and naval -establishments. By <span class="smcap">James H. Stark</span>. With Maps, Engravings and 16 -Photo-prints. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, 157 pp. $2.00.</p> - -<hr /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td><i><big>J G. Cupples Co.</big></i></td> - -<td><i>Publishers<br /> - Booksellers,<br /> - Stationers</i>,<br /></td> - -<td><i><big>BOSTON</big></i>.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>Important New Books.</i></p> -<p>“<i>I consider James R. Nichols, the well-known chemist, one of the -coolest and most scientific investigators in the field of psychical -phenomena, and, at the same time, one of the most honest. If the world -had more earnest thinkers of the same kind to co-operate with him, the -world would find out something of value.</i>”—<i>Joseph Cook.</i></p> -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Works by the late Dr. James R. Nichols.</span></p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">WHENCE? WHAT? WHERE? A VIEW OF THE ORIGIN, NATURE, AND DESTINY OF -MAN.</span> By <span class="smcap">James R. Nichols</span>. With portrait of the author. 12mo. Cloth, -gilt top. $1.25. <i>Eleventh edition, revised.</i></p> - -<p>“<i>No one can take up the book without feeling the inclination to read -further, and to ponder on the all-important subjects which it presents. -Though it is not a religious book in the accepted sense of the word, it -is a book which calls for the exercise of the religious nature, and -which in diffusing many sensible ideas will do good.</i>”—<i>Philadelphia -Press.</i></p> -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">FIRESIDE SCIENCE:</span> Popular Scientific Essays. 12mo. Cloth. $1.50.</p> - -<p>These essays have been an endless source of instruction and interest to -all that have read them, while, to those who approach the mysteries of -Nature with an inquiring and reverent spirit, they will be of great -assistance in aiding the comprehension of the technical works on -chemistry and physics. Since Faraday delivered his well-known lectures, -there has been nothing to compare with the present work in tracing the -action of the immutable laws of Nature in processes of every-day -occurrence.</p> -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">CHEMISTRY OF THE FARM AND THE SEA,</span> with many other familiar -Chemical Essays. 16mo. Cloth. $1.25.</p> - -<p>This work, though perhaps not of so wide an interest to the average -reader, is of the greatest value to the thoughtful and practical farmer. -Not the least of Dr. Nichols’ talents was his deep insight into and -wonderful grasp of agricultural chemistry, and many men to-day can bear -witness to the value of his advice respecting soils and fertilizers. In -this volume will be found the gist of a series of lectures and addresses -delivered before the various agricultural communities of New England and -elsewhere, which abound with helpful suggestions and solid facts.</p> -<p class="nind"><span class="sans">THE POPULAR SCIENCE NEWS.</span> <span class="smcap">Austin P. Nichols</span>, Editor; <span class="smcap">W. J. Rolfe</span>, -Associate Editor. Formerly Boston Journal of Chemistry. Founded by -the late James R. Nichols, M.D., in 1868, is issued monthly, and is -designed to be a journal of Useful Knowledge for all classes of -readers.</p> - -<p>It is now in its Twenty-third year, and has become the most popular -scientific journal published in the world.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Terms.</span>—One Dollar per year, in advance. Subscriptions may begin at any -time. Back numbers supplied when desired.</p> - -<p>Make all drafts, money orders, etc., for this paper, payable to the -<span class="smcap">Popular Science News Co.</span>, Boston, Mass.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span></p> - -<hr /> -<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td><i><big>J G. Cupples Co.</big></i></td> - -<td><i>Publishers<br /> - Booksellers,<br /> - Stationers</i>,<br /></td> - -<td><i><big>BOSTON</big></i>.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="cb"><i>Important New Book.</i></p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"><big><big>H I E R O - S A L E M:</big></big></p> - -<p class="c"><big>THE VISION OF PEACE.</big></p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">A fiction founded on Ideals which are grounded in</span></p> - -<p class="c">THE REAL,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">That is greater than the greatest of all Human Great Ideals.</span></p> - -<p class="c"><span class="eng">By E. L. Mason.</span></p> - -<p class="c"><i>Symbolically Illustrated.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus_309.png" width="400" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<p>The publishers feel pride in announcing the appearance of what they -believe to be a very remarkable production in the department of Didactic -Fiction. It is entitled “<span class="smcap">Hiero-salem: the Vision of Peace</span>,” by E. L. -Mason, and is unquestionably a work of a very high, if not indeed of the -first, order. Whatever may be thought of its theories,—and its theories -will attract, even where they fail to convince, readers,—there can be -no question of its great power. It goes to the bottom of things, and -stirs its readers’ consciousness to its lowest depths, as Hugo, and -Sand, and Balzac, and Heine, and Richter, and all the great masters of -the human heart, do. Striking philosophical and psychological insight, -marked originality, and intense vigor of attack, are among its -characteristics. Those who remember George Sand’s Count Albert will find -in Daniel, especially in the first half of the work, something akin to -that marvellous creation of abstract wisdom and ideal beauty. The -general plan, too, of the book, consisting as it does of a succession of -apparently somewhat unrelated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span> episodes, which, however, at the end are -brought together, explained, and wrought into a consistent and -symmetrical whole, may not impossibly recall <i>Consuelo</i>. <i>Charles -Auchester</i>, doubtless, will occur to the minds of many, as, we should -say, if the reference had not become hackneyed, will <i>Robert Elsmere</i>, -with which it has much in common. Still, possessing qualities resembling -those of the above-named works though it does, as a whole “Hiero-salem” -is totally unlike them, and indeed distinct from every other work with -which we are acquainted. It is, we think, <i>sui generis</i> in Fiction. -Containing passages of great poetic beauty, and of the most intense and -sustained passion; bristling with appropriatenesses and happy audacities -of expression, that are likely to be welcomed into the common fund of -speech; abounding in queer turns and startling surprises of incident and -of thought,—it takes the interest captive, and hurries it, breathless, -and sometimes even almost bewildered, on. The publishers feel themselves -unable to hazard any conjecture with regard to the <i>popularity</i> of this -book. To persons of cultivation, experience and thoughtfulness, whenever -it reaches such, they feel sure it will speak; and their number is not -inconsiderable. They await the verdict of critical and competent society -with confidence, and will not be surprised if it settle down to the -conviction that, on the whole, here again is nothing more or less than a -<i>great work</i>, worthy to stand and live beside the abiding literary -masterpieces.</p> - -<p>The author, evidently an earnest believer in the immortality of the -spiritual ego, treats in this work of the endeavor made by a man deeply -versed in all lore that deals with the universality of the immaterial -world, and the possibility in this life of the partial removal of the -sensual barriers which separate us from it, to raise the standard of -physical and intellectual man by the establishment of a new race founded -at the outset by careful selection of two individuals. Many subjects of -much interest to many thinkers now, are introduced as an integral part -of the narrative,—the doctrine of reincarnation, the beliefs of -Esoteric Buddhism, even the occult knowledge acquired by the Kabbalists. -The idea, however, that shines through all is that behind these mere -glimmerings of light there is the splendor of the truth itself, of which -these are but the reflections vouchsafed to the earnest studies and -strivings of man—a deeper truth which this book endeavors to express.</p> - -<p>“Hiero-salem” will be found to be unique in manufacture as well as in -contents, and is symbolically illustrated.</p> - -<p><i>1 vol. Illustrated, large square 12mo. Unique cloth binding, gilt top, -bevelled boards, 528 pages. Price $2.00.</i></p> - -<p>⁂ Mailed postage paid to any address, by the publishers, on receipt of -the price.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span></p> - -<hr /> -<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td><i><big>J G. Cupples Co.</big></i></td> - -<td><i>Publishers<br /> - Booksellers,<br /> - Stationers</i>,<br /></td> - -<td><i><big>BOSTON</big></i>.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="cb"><i>Important New Books.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> -<img src="images/illus_311.png" alt="" title="" /> -</div> -<p class="cb">O -<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span></p> - -<p class="cb"> -<span class="sans">AUNT NABBY: HER RAMBLES,<br /> -HER ADVENTURES, AND<br /> -HER NOTIONS.</span> -</p> - -<p>With characteristic illustrations and vignettes. 12mo. pp. 314, xii.</p> - -<p>Paper, 50 cents. Cloth, $1.00.</p> - -<p>“Delightful drollery.”—<i>Pilot.</i></p> - -<p>“Highly amusing.”—<i>Boston Herald.</i></p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>☛ <i>SECOND EDITION, ENLARGED AND IMPROVED.</i></p> - -<p class="cb" style="clear:both;">O<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span> -<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cb">O<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span> -<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span></p> - -<p class="c"><i>BRIGHT ORIGINALITY, SPRIGHTLINESS, AND KEEN OBSERVATION.</i></p> - -<p class="c"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">A BUNDLE OF LETTERS FROM OVER THE SEA.</span></p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">By Louise B. Robinson.</span></p> - -<p>12mo. pp. 320. Cloth, elegant, $2.00.</p> - -<p>“The authoress of <span class="smcap">A Bundle of Letters from over the Sea</span> has produced a -book <i>unlike any other</i>. It is original, bright, entertaining, and shows -what an open-eyed, independent American woman can see.”—<i>Press.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span></p> - -<p class="cb">O<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span> -<span style="margin-left: 5em;">O</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td><i><big>J G. Cupples Co.</big></i></td> - -<td><i>Publishers<br /> - Booksellers,<br /> - Stationers</i>,<br /></td> - -<td><i><big>BOSTON</big></i>.</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p class="eng">“Good as it is to inherit a library, it is better to collect one. Each -volume then, however lightly a stranger’s eye may roam from shelf to -shelf, has its own individuality, a history of its own. You remember -where you got it, and how much you gave for it.... The man who has a -library of his own collection is able to contemplate himself -objectively, and is justified in believing in his own existence. No -other man but he would have made precisely such a combination as his. -Had he been in any single respect different from what he is, his -library, as it exists, never would have existed. Therefore, surely he -may exclaim, as in the gloaming he contemplates the backs of his loved -ones, ‘They are mine, and I am theirs.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p class="r"> -<i>Obiter Dicta.</i><br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover_back.jpg" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bundle of Letters From Over the Sea, by -Louise B. 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