diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/54088-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/54088-0.txt | 5507 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 5507 deletions
diff --git a/old/54088-0.txt b/old/54088-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b1aee71..0000000 --- a/old/54088-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5507 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Narrative of a Voyage to Hudson's Bay in His -Majesty's Ship Rosamond, by Edward Chappell - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Narrative of a Voyage to Hudson's Bay in His Majesty's Ship Rosamond - Containing Some Account of the North-eastern Coast of America and of the Tribes Inhabiting That Remote Region - - -Author: Edward Chappell - - - -Release Date: February 2, 2017 [eBook #54088] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO HUDSON'S -BAY IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ROSAMOND*** - - -E-text prepared by Andrew Sly, Stephen Hutcheson, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team (http://www.pgdpcanada.net) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 54088-h.htm or 54088-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/54088/54088-h/54088-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/54088/54088-h.zip) - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - A carat character is used to denote superscription. One - or more characters following the carat is/are superscripted - (examples: M^R, 13^th, M^cKenzie). - - - - - - [Illustration: MAP - of the - GREAT NELSON RIVER, - _from the_ - Great Lake Winnepeg to the Gull Lake. - _Shewing the different_ - Portages, Falls, and Rapids; - _BY M^R. WILLIAM HILLIER_ - _Master in the Royal Navy_ -_N.B. The figures denote the number of feet in each fall of the River._] - High-Resolution Map - - - NARRATIVE - OF A - VOYAGE - TO - HUDSON’S BAY - IN - HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP ROSAMOND - CONTAINING SOME ACCOUNT OF - THE NORTH-EASTERN COAST OF AMERICA - AND - OF THE TRIBES - INHABITING - THAT REMOTE REGION. - - - BY - LIEUT. EDWARD CHAPPELL, R. N. - - - Ὑµεῖς δ’, ὦ Μοῦσαι, σχολιὰς ἐνέποιτε χελεύθους. - DIONYSII PERIEGESIS. v. 63. _Ozon._ 1697. - - - - - - - LONDON: - PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDGATE STREET: - By H. Watts, Crown Court, Temple Bar. - 1817. - - Originally printed in 1817 - for J. Mawman, - Ludgate Street, London, England - - - TO THE - LORD VISCOUNT PALMERSTONE - BARON TEMPLE - _SECRETARY OF WAR_ - MEMBER FOR THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE - &c. &c. &c. - - THE FOLLOWING - NARRATIVE - WITH HIS LORDSHIP’S PERMISSION - IS DEDICATED - AS A MEMORIAL OF GRATITUDE - AND A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT - BY HIS LORDSHIP’S - OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT - EDWARD CHAPPELL. - - - - - ADVERTISEMENT. - - -Towards the close of the year 1814, a young naval officer, Lieutenant -_Chappell_, of his Majesty’s ship _Rosamond_, who had recently returned, -for the second time, from an expedition to the _North-eastern_ coast of -_America_, brought to _Cambridge_ a collection of the dresses, weapons, -&c. of the _Indians_ inhabiting _Hudson’s Bay_[1]; requesting that I -would present these curiosities to the Public Library of the University. -This Collection so much resembled another which the _Russian_ Commodore -_Billings_ brought to Petersburg from the _North-western_ shores of the -same continent, and part of which Professor _Pallas_ had given to me in -the _Crimea_, that, being desirous to learn whether the same customs and -language might not be observed over the whole of _North America_, -between the parallels 50° and 70° of north latitude, I proposed to -Lieutenant _Chappell_ a series of questions concerning the natives of -the _North-eastern_ coast; desiring to have an answer to each of them, -in writing, founded upon his own personal observations. In consequence -of this application, I was entrusted with a perusal of the following -_Journal_. It was written by himself, during his last expedition: and -having since prevailed upon him to make it public, it is a duty -incumbent upon me to vouch for its authenticity, and to make known some -particulars respecting its author, which may perhaps give an additional -interest to his Narrative. The Letters, indeed, which have accompanied -his communications with regard to his late voyage, are strongly tinged -with the “_infandum jubes renovare dolorem_;” because, to the ardent -spirit of a _British_ seaman, no service can be more depressing than -that which, during war, banishes him from the career of glory, to a -station where no proof of skill or of intrepidity, no enterprise of -fatigue or of danger, is ever attended with honour or reward[2]. -Lieutenant _Chappell_ was twice ordered upon this station; after -exploits in the navy, which, at a very early period of his life, -obtained for him the rank he now holds. - -In 1805, he assisted in cutting out the _Spanish_ privateer-schooner, -_Isabella La Demos_, from under the batteries of a small bay in _South -America_[3]. In 1806, after witnessing the battle of _St. Domingo_, he -was with the boats which burned the _Imperiale_ of 120 guns, and the -_Diomede_ of eighty guns. In the latter end of the same year, his ship, -the _King’s Fisher_, having towed _Lord Cochrane_’s frigate from under -the batteries of _L’Isle d’Aix_, near _Rochfort_, assisted in the -capture of _Le President_ of forty-four guns. In 1808, he was at the -capture of the _Danish_ islands, _St. Thomas_ and _St. Croix_, in the -_West Indies_. In 1808, or 1809, he was in the _Intrepid_ of sixty-four -guns, when she engaged two _French_ frigates, and was very severely -handled. Afterwards, he was at the capture of the _Saints_, and of the -Island of _Martinico_, when he was employed on the shore, in fighting -the _breaching_ batteries. In 1810, he commanded a gun-boat during the -siege of _Cadiz_. The conduct of the gun-boats upon this occasion -requires no comment: it was then that he received a severe wound in the -thigh, and was made Lieutenant. In 1812, he assisted in landing the -Expedition, under General _Maitland_, in _Murcia_. In 1813, he was -employed in protecting the fisheries upon the coast of _Labrador_. In -1814, he made the voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, whereof the following pages -contain his unaltered Narrative. In 1815, being First Lieutenant of his -Majesty’s ship _Leven_, he was employed in assisting the Chiefs of _La -Vendee_, and in reinstating the Prince _Tremouille_ in the -Captain-generalship of the Department _de Cotes d’Or_. - -Such have been the services of this meritorious officer, now only -twenty-five years of age; but, owing to the termination of the war, -dismissed, with many other of his gallant comrades, from the active -duties in which they were engaged. These circumstances, as it must be -obvious, are by no means querulously introduced: nor is the following -Narrative made public with the slightest intention of reproaching the -_Admiralty_ with the hard lot to which one of its naval heroes was -exposed, in being twice employed in such a service:—it is a lot that -must fall somewhere; and the present Publication will shew, that the -person upon whom it devolved is able to give a satisfactory account of -the manner in which this part of his duty was performed. - - EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE. - - University Library, Cambridge, - _April 7, 1817_. - - - - - LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. - - - Map of the _Great Nelson River_, from the _Great Lake Winnepeg_ to - the _Gull Lake_; shewing the different Portages, Falls, - and Rapids: by Mr. _William Hillier_, Master in the Royal - Navy facing Title-page. - View of the _Rosamond_ passing to windward of an _Iceberg_ P. 1 - _Cape Saddle Back_, north 7 or 8 miles: with two remarkable - _Icebergs_ off the low point 55 - Male _Esquimaux_, in his Canoe ib. - An _Esquimaux_ Hut 75 - Sledge drawn by Dogs, used by _European_ Traders at _Hudson’s - Bay_, and on the Southern Coast of _Labrador_ 106 - Bark Canoe of the _Cree Indians_ in _Hudson’s Bay_ ib. - Appearance of the Entrance of _Prince of Wales’s Sound_, bearing - S. W. ½ W. about nine leagues;—taken August 17, 1814 133 - The _Rosamond_ grappled among close Ice ib. - Interior of a Wigwam of the _Cree Indians_ 211 - - [Illustration: VIEW _of the_ ROSAMOND, _passing to windward of an_ - ICEBERG.] - - - - - NARRATIVE, - &c. &c. - - -On the 14th day of _May_, 1814, Captain _Campbell_ received orders to -repair, without delay, to _Hoseley Bay_, on the coast of _Suffolk_; and -there to wait for his final directions from the Admiralty. - -The _Rosamond_, at this time, had been lying about a fortnight at -_Spithead_, perfectly ready for sea; and it was conjectured that -_America_ would have been the place of her destination: of course, many -among us were big with the hopes of fame, and many with the expectation -of fortune. When the above-mentioned orders arrived, however, all chance -of our proceeding to the seat of war appeared at an end: yet we consoled -ourselves with the reflection, that we should doubtless be employed on -the coast of _Norway_; as the whole of that kingdom had been declared in -a state of blockade, in consequence of the _Norwegians_ refusing to -accede to the Treaty of _Keil_, by which their country was to be annexed -for ever to the dominion of _Sweden_. Accordingly, we sailed from -_Spithead_. - -May _15th_.—We had light winds all this day. As we passed out of -_Spithead_, through _St. Helen’s_, we observed His Majesty’s ship -_Adamant_, and an _East-India_ ship, going in. About nine in the -evening: we passed close to the _Owers Light_. - -May _16th_.—In the forenoon, fine calm weather, we came to an anchor in -sight of _Brighton_, to wait the change of tide: saw His Majesty’s ship -_Hope_ at anchor in the _Roads_. In the afternoon, got under weigh: -observed His Majesty’s brig _Tigress_ standing down _Channel_. Towards -nightfall, we weathered the promontory of _Beachy Head_, and passed in -view of _Hastings_, where the famous battle was fought between _King -Harold_ and _William the Conqueror_. - -May _17th_.—At two in the morning, anchored in sight of _Dungeness_ -Light-house. At seven A.M. weighed, with a foul wind, and beat towards -the _South Foreland_. Came in sight of the coast of _France_: observed a -large pillar, or monument, on the hills above _Boulogne_, said to have -been erected by _Buonaparte_. In the afternoon, anchored off the town of -_Folkestone_. Towards evening, weighed again; and, after night-fall, -anchored in _Dover Roads_. - -May _18th_.—In the morning we had a fine view of _Dover Castle_, the -majestic _South Foreland_, &c. Got under weigh, and stood across the -_Channel_;—observed many vessels passing between _France_ and _England_. -Saw the spires of _Calais_. Beat up at the back of the _Goodwin -Sands_;—observed a three-decked ship in the _Downs_, hoisting the flag -of his Royal Highness the _Duke of Clarence_, under a general salute of -cannon from all the shipping. Towards evening, anchored in sight of -_Margate_; but after night-fall, got under weigh again. - -May _19th_.—In the morning, anchored again, near a shoal called the -_Galloper_. In the forenoon, weighed. Towards evening, passed -_Orford-Ness_ Light-houses, and anchored in _Hoseley Bay_. An officer -was immediately sent on shore, to bring on board the final orders. The -boat was nearly overturned in landing, in consequence of the heavy surf -on all parts of this coast: however, the officer returned about -midnight, and delivered the orders to the Captain. Nothing could exceed -the consternation and astonishment of every person on board, to find we -were directed to proceed, almost immediately, for _Hudson’s Bay_!—Had we -been ordered to the _North Pole_, there could not have been more long -faces among us. Down fell, at once, all the _aërial castles_ which we -had been so long building; and nothing remained, but the dismal prospect -of a tedious voyage, amidst icy seas, and shores covered with eternal -snows. - -May _20th_.—A boat was this day despatched to _Harwich_, from which -place we were about ten miles distant, to get on board what few naval -stores were wanted to complete us for the voyage. _Harwich_ is a small -town, with narrow streets, not paved: there are some pleasant walks in -the environs. The harbour is a good one, with sufficient depth of water -for a frigate. The place is well fortified towards the sea, and has a -small naval arsenal. A guard-ship is generally stationed at this port, -during war. - -May _21st_.—In the morning, His Majesty’s ship _Unicorn_ passed us, -under an immense press of sail, with a Royal standard flying at her -mast-head, which we saluted with twenty-one guns. - -May _22d_.—Towards the evening of this day, our Captain received orders -to proceed to the _Nore_, in order to procure pilots to conduct the ship -safe to the _Orkneys_. We had also another motive in visiting the _Nore_ -at this time, which I may, perhaps, be excused relating, although it -have no immediate connexion with the voyage that we were about to -undertake. Previous to our sailing from _Spithead_, a shipwright -belonging to the dock-yard had been accidentally killed, by our having -fired a signal-gun without taking out the shot. Unfortunately, the poor -man’s wife, at the moment of his death, was pregnant of her tenth child. -A subscription was instantly opened for her, on board our ship, and £.60 -was the next day paid into her hands. I have since been informed, that -the different ships at _Spithead_ followed our example, as did also the -workmen of the Dock-yard; and a handsome sum was collected in the whole. -No blame could be attributed to any person; but, to prevent the -possibility of such an imputation, it was thought necessary that the -gunner should be tried by a court-martial; and it was to assemble this -court, that we were now ordered to proceed to the _Nore_[4]. - -May _23d_.—In the morning, we weighed, with a strong breeze in our -favour; and at noon anchored at the _Great Nore_;—observed a _Russian_ -Vice-admiral, with a squadron belonging to that nation, at anchor there -also. We remained at this place, waiting the arrival of the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ traders, until the 30th; when the two ships arrived; -accompanied by a brig belonging to the _Moravian Missionary Society_, -bound for the coast of _Labrador_, whither she was to proceed under our -protection, or at least as far as our courses lay together. It is a rule -with the _Hudson’s-Bay Company_, to make their ships always _break -ground_ on the 29th of _May_; although, sometimes, they do not leave the -river _Thames_ before _June_. The same day on which the _Hudson’s-Bay_ -ships arrived at the _Nore_, we were joined by a new Captain -(_Stopford_); our former one (_Campbell_) not wishing, for many reasons, -to go the voyage. His loss was most sincerely regretted by all of us: -however, our new Commander proved himself, during the whole time we -sailed together, to be one of the most exemplary captains in His -Majesty’s navy. We continued getting our stores on board until— - -June _4th_.—Early this day, we weighed anchor. Being the birth-day of -our venerable King, all the _English_ and _Russian_ ships of war were -dressed with flags, and made a very gay appearance. - -June _5th_.—We anchored twice this day, to wait the change of tide: at -first, off the _Gunfleet Sand_; and towards evening we brought up, off -_Harwich_. - -June _6th_.—In the morning, weighed, and beat up into _Hoseley -Bay_;—found lying there His Majesty’s ship _Bristol_. Towards evening, -sent the purser on shore, to procure fresh beef. - -June _7th_.—The boat returned in the morning, with the purser in sad -distress; eight men having deserted from the boat, from an antipathy to -the voyage. - -June _8th_.—A party of soldiers, and an officer, were sent to look for -the deserters; but in the evening they returned, unsuccessful. - -June _9th_.—In the afternoon, weighed with our convoy, and beat towards -_Yarmouth_. In the evening, anchored off _Aldborough_. - -June _10th_.—In the morning, we again weighed. At noon, anchored at -_Yarmouth_; and sent a boat on shore, to procure beef and vegetables for -the ship’s company; as this was the last place we touched at, in -_England_. _Yarmouth_ is a large straggling place; consisting of one or -two good streets, and many narrow lanes; with open spaces here and -there, like squares. The church has a most beautiful spire. The town -does not contain any magnificent buildings: here is, however, a very -fine market-place; and an agreeable promenade, under the shade of two -rows of trees, running along the quay on the banks of the river -_Wensum_, on the N. W. side of the town. All the soil around the town is -barren; which accounts for the waste of room in the buildings, as land -is of little or no value. I know not any place in _Great Britain_ which -has finer bathing conveniences. In the evening, we again weighed; and at -night-fall passed by _Haseborough_ and _Cromer_ Light-houses. - - -June _11th_.—In the morning, we saw the _Spurn_ Light-house; and towards -noon, we passed by _Flamborough Head_, in _Yorkshire_. Towards evening, -we had a fine view of _Scarborough_. - -June _12th_.—A beautiful day, running with a fair wind and smooth sea. -In the evening, saw the blue tops of the _Cheviot Hills_. - -June _13th_.—A fine fair breeze. Towards noon, passed the _Buchan Ness_, -and had a good view of _Peterhead_. Towards evening the wind increased -to a gale;—hove-to, until morning. - -June _14th_.—In the morning, passed the _Pentland Frith_, in which the -tide is like a whirlpool; and, after having run by _Long-Hope_ Harbour, -we anchored at _Stromness_, in the Island of _Pomona_, the principal of -the _Orkneys_; immediately opposite to which is the _Isle of Hoy_, -having on it a remarkable high mountain, in shape very like the Rock of -_Gibraltar_. Immediately on our arrival, the two _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships -fired seven guns each, to give notice to the inhabitants of their -arrival. The visits of the _North-west men_, as the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships -are denominated, creates a sort of annual mart, or fair, in the -_Orkneys_; as it is from hence that they derive all the necessary -supplies of poultry, beef, vegetables, and even men, to fit them for so -long a voyage:—consequently, the _Orkney_ people listen with anxiety for -this salute of cannon, which announces the arrival of the N. W. ships; -as almost every person in the island is, in some way or other, -interested in their coming. - -June _15th_.—We were employed in watering the ship; and found it -difficult to procure a sufficient quantity, owing to a great drought -which had lately prevailed. - -The town of Stromness is an irregular assemblage of dirty huts, with -here and there a decent house. There is scarcely any thing deserving the -name of a street in the place, although it is said to contain a -population of two thousand souls. A few years ago it did not contain -above one third of that number. The harbour is small, but very secure: -it is defended from the sea by an island called _The Holmes_; and there -is a good summer roadstead outside the island, called the _Back of the -Holmes_. Firewood cannot be procured in the _Orkneys_, where there are -no trees; but _Newcastle_ coal is always remarkably cheap. About six -miles from _Stromness_ is a large lake, called _Stonehouse Loch_, in -consequence of some high flat stones which stand by the side of it, -something similar in appearance to _Stonehenge_, on _Salisbury Plain_: -they bear no inscription, and seem to have been set on their ends in the -same state as when taken from the quarry[5]:—the view given of them in -_Barrie’s_ Description of the _Orkney Islands_ is perfectly correct. The -quantities of grouse, partridge, plover, snipe, &c. in the _Orkneys_, is -astonishing: neither foxes nor hares are to be found; but rabbits are -very numerous. There are some spots of good land in the valleys; but in -such a bad state of cultivation, from idleness and want of manure, that -at least five weeds are produced to one blade of corn. Wheat is not -grown in any of the islands; the produce consisting, principally, in -barley and oats. But the chief export of the _Orkneys_ is kelp, ashes -obtained by the burning of sea-weed[6], with which all the shores -abound: this proves a most valuable acquisition to those gentlemen whose -estates border on the sea; as it sells, on an average, at £.11 a ton; -and is collected, at low water, without much difficulty. The kelp -estates produce triennial harvests; and when this commodity is gathered, -it is sent either to _Newcastle_, to _Dumbarton_, or to _Leith_; great -quantities being required for the use of the glass-houses established in -those towns. The number of tame geese reared in these islands is really -surprising: they wander about the barren hills in flocks, like sheep; -and the owners give themselves little or no trouble about them, until -they are wanted for sale, or for their own consumption. - -June _16th_.—I accompanied some of the officers on a shooting party. -This circumstance is merely mentioned to introduce a description of the -farm-houses; as we visited many of them during our excursion. The -delineation of _one_ will answer for _all_: and surely there never was a -scene better fitted for the pencil of a _Morland_! In one corner stood a -calf; in another, a sheep and its lambkin; in the next, walled in with -loose stones, a piece of sail-cloth served as a bed for the family; and -the fourth corner, as also the sides and roof of the building, were -garnished with decayed farming implements. The centre of the habitation -was occupied by a turf fire, before which some oaten cakes were -roasting; and, in the middle of the roof, a large square hole was cut, -to allow the smoke to escape. By the side of the fire, in a large and -remarkably high rush chair, sat an old woman, with a spinning-wheel -before her, endeavouring to still the cries of a very dirty infant that -lay in her lap. There was also another apartment to the hut, for the -accommodation of the cows, of which they had a considerable number. The -two rooms were not even divided by a door from each other, and the bare -earth was the only flooring of either. - -During this day we were still employed in getting water on board, -although it is rather difficult to be procured. - -June _17th_.—Our carpenters were busily employed in affixing ring-bolts -to the rudder; from which strong iron chains were brought in at the -quarter ports of the ship, in order to secure the rudder against the -shocks of the drift ice; as we were well aware that we should have to -force our way through large quantities of it, in passing _Hudson’s -Straits_: and we afterwards found this to have been a most necessary -precaution. We likewise borrowed from the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships the -necessary store of ice-anchors, ice-axes, and ice-poles; neither of -those articles having been supplied by the Admiralty, probably from not -knowing that they would be requisite. - -June _18th_.—During the whole of the time that we remained at _Orkney_ -after this day, we were busily employed in getting all kinds of -necessaries on board. - -June _29th_.—We sailed from _Orkney_, at 8 A.M. with the two -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships, and the _Moravian_ Missionary brig, in company. -Towards evening it blew a fresh breeze, and the wind veered round -against us. At sunset we had a distant view of the _Caithness Hills_ and -the _Isle of Shetland_. - -June _30th_.—There being a very heavy sea, with rain at times, during -this day, we did not perceive any alteration in the climate. The wind -still proving foul, we continued to stand to the northward. In the -evening, after some very violent squalls and heavy showers of rain, the -wind suddenly veered to the N. W. and reduced us to close-reefed -topsails, blowing very hard. During the night we stood to the S. W. - -July _1st_.—In the early part of the day the gale abated by degrees, and -towards evening we had fine sunny weather. Wind still in the N. W. -quarter; consequently we have made way to the S. W. since yesterday, -about 67 miles. Latitude at noon this day, 59°. 10′. N. - -July _2d_.—In the morning, we saw the _Lewis Islands_; and the wind -chopping round to S. W. we tacked, and stood off shore to the N. W. At -noon, as the wind continued to blow steady in the S. S. W., we steered -W. N. W. Many Solan geese flying about: these are nearly the size of a -tame goose, but the neck much shorter, and the wings longer, tipped with -black; all the rest of their plumage being perfectly white. At -night-fall, the weather misty, but not cold. - -On taking our last departure from the land this morning, it is necessary -to observe, that, in my narrative of the voyage, I shall merely state, -on each day, the course and distance run by the ship in the preceding -day, without making a dull account of latitude, longitude, bearings and -distances, allowances for lee-way, currents, &c. &c.; as all this -farrago of nautical calculation, however necessary it may be to -mariners, cannot fail to tire out the patience of a general reader; and -the object of this publication, is not so much to point out the track of -the _Rosamond_, in her voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, as to describe the -manners and customs of the different tribes inhabiting the shores of -that immense gulf. - -July _3d_.—Course run, W. by N. 66 miles. Thick, foggy weather. During -the morning we frequently lost sight of our convoy, but saw them again -on its clearing up. Light winds from the S. W. Ship standing to the -north. Observed great quantities of a peculiar kind of sea-weed, in the -shape of stars. Numberless sea-birds round the ship, particularly Solan -geese. - -July _4th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 79 miles. In the middle of the -night we had a fair wind, which held during the day, accompanied by a -thick fog; ship going generally about five miles an hour. Perhaps it is -deserving notice, that, since our departure from _Orkney_, we never had -a night so dark as not to be able to read and write. - -July _5th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 101 miles. During the night, lost -our fair wind, and got a westerly breeze, with sunny weather. Towards -noon, the wind again veered to the S. W. This day we obtained an -observation of the sun, for the first time since our leaving _Orkney_, -and found ourselves in latitude 59°. 8′. N. We saw neither Solan geese -nor sea-weed. - -July _6th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 90 miles. A fair wind all day, -variable from N. E. to S. E., ship steering W. N. W. at about four miles -an hour. Noticed the air to be getting much colder, probably occasioned -by the wind shifting to the N. E. The sea-birds and weed appeared now to -have taken their final leave of us; which certainly agrees with the -great Cook’s opinion, that when met with in vast numbers, they are a -certain indication of the proximity of land. In the evening, we saw a -large _finner_ or two. Ship going about seven miles an hour. - -July _7th_.—Course run, W. ¾ S. 121 miles. In the middle of the night, -we lost our fair wind. Early in the morning, saw a strange vessel to -windward, and made all sail after her: continued in pursuit the whole -day, with light winds, varying from North to East. Every person on board -was highly elated with the thoughts of a prize. All notion of the -strange vessel’s being a friend was scouted; and it was carried _nem. -con._ that she could be no other than a rich _American_ from -_Archangel_, homeward bound. - -July _8th_.—Course, W. by N. ¼ N. 79 miles. At one A.M. spoke the vessel -that we were in pursuit of. She was a light brig from _Copenhagen_, -bound to _Davis’ Straits_, where the _Danes_ have some settlements. -Early in the morning we rejoined our convoy, and shortly afterwards -perceived another brig to windward: we immediately made all sail in -pursuit of her, but soon relinquished the chase, as we were apprehensive -it might lead us too far from our convoy. Wind about N. by W. Ship -standing to the westward. No birds to be seen, excepting one or two -solitary sea-gulls, which are to be met with at any distance from the -land. - -July _9th_.—Course run, S. W. ¾ W. 107 miles. A gloomy day. Wind blowing -fresh from the North. Towards evening, the wind abated; and it fell -calm, which continued through the night. - -July _10th_.—Course run, S. W. by W. ¾ W. 36 miles. At 2 A.M. the ship -was so surrounded by myriads of porpoises, that it appeared as if they -had some intention of taking us by _storm_. It is an opinion of the -sailors, that those fish generally precede a smart gale, and make -towards the point whence the wind will arise. These swarms were -proceeding in a North-east direction. During the fore-part of the day we -had light variable winds from the southward; and at noon were taken -aback, with a stiff gale from the N. N. W.: it continued to blow hard in -squalls. - -July _11th_.—Course run, S. W. 32 miles. During this day, the wind blew -a pleasant breeze from the N. W. At 10 A.M. we put about ship, and stood -to the North. It is worthy of remark, that the sky had been so -continually overcast, since we quitted the _Orkneys_, that we had been -only able to procure the meridian altitude of the sun twice. Thus we had -been twelve days already on our voyage, with only two good observations. -It ought also to be mentioned, that we found ourselves much retarded by -the bad sailing of the _North-west_ ships; but the _Moravian_ brig -sailed very well. - -July _12th_.—Course run, N. W. by W. 62 miles. It blew strong all night; -but we had a fine day; and towards noon, the wind shifted round, and -blew fair at South. We got a peep at the sun this day, and found we were -in latitude 57°. 15′. N. - -July _13th_.—Course run, W. ½ N. 76 miles. In the morning, the wind -changed to N. by E. and blew a moderate breeze. After night-fall we had -a faint appearance of the _Aurora Borealis_, in the shape of a -_rainbow_, which rendered it peculiarly interesting. - -July _14th_.—Course run, S. W. by S. 71 miles. At 9 A.M. we tacked -about; and the wind coming fair, we steered N. W. by N. Our ship this -forenoon was completely surrounded by innumerable flights of sea-gulls. -I should imagine that they had been attracted hither by some unusual -assemblage of fish, as they were all busily employed in attacks on the -finny tribe. - -July _15th_.—Course run, W. by N. 106 miles. This morning we were going -five miles an hour, with a fair breeze and thick weather. It is to be -observed, that, with a wind from the South-east or East, we have always -had a fog; and I have also noticed this to be the case as far to the -southward as the Banks of _Newfoundland_; although I am utterly -incapable to account for it satisfactorily. - -Since our departure from _Stromness_, the variation of the compass had -been gradually increasing. We this day allowed for a difference of four -points westerly, between the magnetic and the true needle; whereas at -_Orkney_ there is only a difference of two points and a half, or 28 -degrees. Thus it continued increasing until we arrived within about 300 -miles of the settlements in _Hudson’s Bay_; when it decreases much more -suddenly; falling away, in that short distance, to half a point, or five -degrees, West—this being the ascertained variation at _York Factory_. I -should think that no subject could exhibit to an inquisitive mind a more -astonishing matter of inquiry, than the singular phenomenon which I have -just noticed. Can any thing be more surprising, than that the variation -should increase but eighteen degrees, in a run of upwards of 2000 miles -to the westward; and that it should then begin to turn; and, in the -short run of 300 miles on the same course, that it should suddenly -decrease 41 degrees? An officer belonging to one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ -ships attempted to account for this astonishing attraction of the -needle, by supposing the contiguity of metallic mountains; but he could -state no facts in support of his hypothesis: and, although the interior -of the N. W. part of _America_ has doubtless been explored, and is even -actually colonized, owing to the enterprising spirit of a _Selkirk_, yet -I cannot learn that any metallic mountains have been discovered, with a -sufficient profusion of ore to cause such an aberration in the compass, -and at so great a distance[7]. - -Our latitude this day was 56°. 35′. N.; longitude 38°. W. Towards noon, -our fair breeze died away, and we had light winds from the westward: in -the evening, we exercised the men with the great guns, in firing at a -cask in the water. - -July _16th_.—Course run, N. W. ¼ N. 35 miles. Light winds and vexatious -calms all this day. We now considered ourselves to be distant from the -entrance of _Hudson’s Straits_ about 840 miles. I know not what reason -could have induced the first discoverers of the northern regions to give -such intimidating names to all the most conspicuous capes, promontories, -bays, creeks, &c.; unless they were originally bestowed with a view of -preventing others from visiting those countries; and at the same time to -enhance the public opinion of their own courage:—for instance, we -passed, in our voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, _Capes Resolution_, _Comfort_, -_Farewell_, _Discord_, and _Desolation_; also, _Icy_ and _Bear Coves_, -and the _Islands of God’s Mercies_. - -The ship was now continually surrounded by a species of sea-gull, which, -on the water, looked very much like wild-ducks. Those birds appear to be -spread in great multitudes quite across the mouth of _Davis’ Straits_, -from _Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_ to the coast of _Labrador_. - -July _17th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 20 miles. The light variable -winds still continued through this day. - -Towards evening we were highly entertained with a combat between a whale -and two or three of that species of fish called _Finners_. The fury with -which they engage is surprising. The whale, slowly lifting up his -enormous tail, lets it suddenly fall on his opponents with a most -tremendous crash; thereby throwing up foam to an amazing height. -Although the Finners have incomparably the advantage in agility, yet in -size and strength they fall but little short of the smaller whales. The -Finners derive their name from an immense fin, which they use with great -effect in their attacks on the whale. Sometimes they lift up this -enormous fin, and let it fall upon their antagonist, in the manner of a -thresher’s flail; at other times, they run their whole body -perpendicularly out of the water, exhibiting a beautiful view of their -snow-white bellies. In this position they have the singular power of -turning round; and thus they contrive to fall sideways on the whale, -with a shock that may be heard at a considerable distance. - -The sea was this day covered with an oily appearance; and some old -_Greenland_ fishermen, who were on board the ship, gave a marvellous -account of its being occasioned by the sperm of the whale. - -July _18th_.—Course run W. ¾ N. 65 miles. Early in the morning we had a -fine breeze from the N. E. Latitude at noon, by an observation of the -sun, 57°. 24′. N.; longitude, by our account, 41°. 17′. W. According to -some charts, we considered ourselves this day to be in the longitude of -_Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_. Nothing can exceed the uncertainty that -prevails, in almost every chart and book of navigation, respecting the -longitude of the Cape in question. In proof of this, I shall quote an -extract from the accompanying Memoir to Mr. _Purdy’s_ Chart of the -_Atlantic_:—“Both the Requisite Tables, and _Connaissance de Tems_, -state the latitude of _Cape Farewell_ at 59°. 38′. N., and longitude, -_per_ chronometer, at 42°. 42′. W.; but the _Danish_ charts place the -Cape _two degrees_ more to the West. We know not which is right, or if -either; and have, _doubtingly_, placed it in 43°. 40′. W. as a mean -between the two. This is a point on which further information is -particularly required. The old books and charts place it from 44°. 30′. -to 44°. 45′. W.” - -Nothing can be a more serious inconvenience to mariners than this -uncertainty respecting the latitude and longitude of places; and it is -scarcely to be credited, that so little pains have been taken to -ascertain the longitude of _Greenland’s_ southernmost extremity. - -We experienced sharp cold this day, and ascribed it to the winds having -blown over the mountains of _Greenland_, on their way towards us. As the -next three days furnished no remarks worthy an insertion in this -narrative, I shall barely notice the course and distance run by the ship -on each day; and the reader may thus pass on to the _22d_. - -July _19th_.—Course run S. W. by W. ¾ W. 60 miles. - -July _20th_.—Course run W. by N. ¼ N. 68 miles. - -July _21st_.—Course run W. 67 miles. - -July _22d_.—Course run N. W. ½ N. 47 miles. As an indication of our -drawing near to some land, we this morning picked up a broken tree, -about eighteen feet long, of the yellow pine species. Although we could -not have been less than three hundred miles from the nearest land, it -certainly had not been long in the water. After night-fall, we were -gratified with a most brilliant display of the _Aurora Borealis_. - -July _23d_.—Course run, N. N. W. ¾ W. 23 miles. Early in the morning we -saw five _Greenland_ ships, returning to _England_ from the -whale-fishery; and shortly afterwards we perceived two ships of war, in -the N. W. quarter. At noon we spoke with His Majesty’s ships the -_Victorious_ and _Horatio_. They had been to _Davis’ Straits_, for the -purpose of protecting the whale-fishery; and the former vessel exhibited -a melancholy proof of the ill effects likely to result from the extreme -state of ignorance in which our best navigators are placed, relative to -the exact situation of the Northern lands. The _Victorious_ had struck -on a rock, in latitude 66°. 21′. N., longitude 53°. 47′. W.; entirely -owing to the coast of _Greenland_ having been laid down _four degrees_ -wrong in the _Admiralty Charts_. The consequences likely to result from -the loss of a seventy-four-gun ship, in such a situation, may be easily -imagined; allowing every man to have been safely conveyed on board the -_Horatio_. The frigate must herself have been short of provisions at the -moment; and in what possible way could the captain have provided for the -subsistence of nearly six hundred people in addition to his own ship’s -company, in a part of the world where he could not have formed the most -distant hope of receiving a supply?—Fortunately, they were not destined -to experience the horrors of so dreadful a situation; the _Victorious_ -was got off the rock again, without much difficulty: yet that her danger -had been imminent cannot be doubted, as she was obliged to get a topsail -under her bottom; and at the time when we met with her, there were some -apprehensions that she might not reach _England_ in safety; the leak -being so bad, that the crew were compelled to labour incessantly at the -pumps. The _Horatio_ of course remained with her until she reached a -_British_ port. - -After all that has been said respecting the erroneous state of even the -_Admiralty Charts_ for the Northern Seas, yet I do not imagine that the -smallest imputation of neglect can be charged to Government upon that -account. It has never yet been thought an object of sufficient national -importance, to warrant an expenditure of the public money towards -defraying the great expense that must necessarily be incurred in -surveying thoroughly those frozen coasts which border upon _Davis’_ and -_Hudson’s Straits_. The _Greenland_ mariners are notorious for paying so -little regard to the situation of the places they visit, that they are -incapable of giving any correct information: and the officers of the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have a motive in concealing the knowledge which -they actually possess: this I shall notice more fully hereafter. - -July _24th_.—Course run, N. W. ½ W. 34 miles. This morning some slight -indication appeared of a lasting fair wind. The fine mild weather that -had prevailed for the last fortnight was far from affording satisfaction -to the commanders of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; as they prognosticated -much more difficulty in getting through _Hudson’s Straits_, the natural -consequence of so much calm weather. It would have pleased them better -to have encountered a few gales of wind, even if they had proved foul; -as it requires strong winds to carry the drift ice out of the _Straits_, -which is very likely otherwise to choke the passage. Entering _Hudson’s -Straits_, it is a necessary precaution to keep close in with the -northern shore; as the currents out of _Hudson’s_ and _Davis’ Straits_ -meet on the south side of the entrance, and carry the ice with great -velocity to the southward, along the coast of _Labrador_. We had seen, -lately, a number of the kind of birds called, by the sailors, -_Boatswains_: they are so numerous to the southward of the Tropic of -_Cancer_, that they are called _Tropic Birds_. I cannot say whether they -are accustomed to seat themselves upon the water or not; because our -visitors flew at a great height over the ship, and we could plainly hear -their melancholy screams by night as well as by day. Some amongst them -have long feathers, like spikes, projecting from their tails; whilst -others in the same flock, and evidently of the same species, are without -them: perhaps these remarkable feathers may serve as distinguishing -marks between the sexes. At noon this day we were in latitude 58°. 35′. -N. longitude 49°. 10′. W. In the afternoon, the _Moravian_ Missionary -brig asked, and obtained permission, to part company: she then quitted -us, and steered more away to the westward. During the stay of our ship -at the _Orkneys_, I had visited the brig in question, and had there met -with an old _German_ Missionary; from whom I learned, that the -difficulty of first getting on terms of intimacy with the _Esquimaux_ -was almost insurmountable. This Missionary had himself been one of the -first who succeeded in so dangerous an object, which could only be -accomplished by placing an entire confidence in this wild race of -people: he therefore remained alone with them, conforming to their -loathsome habits, and mildly endeavouring to gain an ascendancy over -their minds. It was a considerable time before he dared to attack those -established customs which, to him, appeared most exceptionable. Habit -had sanctioned polygamy amongst them; although the nature of their -climate, and the difficulty of procuring sustenance, had confined that -privilege almost exclusively to their Chiefs. Passion was allowed to be -pleaded successfully, in extenuation of murder. It was, therefore, with -a trembling, but a resigned heart, that the Missionary first ventured to -point out those practices as offences against the Great Spirit. “The -Almighty,” said the good _Moravian_, “assisted my humble efforts, and my -endeavours were crowned with success.” I shall also quote his own words -as to the result:—“On the bleak and rocky coast of _Labrador_, a temple -is now erected to the worship of God, in which the wild _Esquimaux_ -raises his voice in songs of praise to the Most High. Thirty years of my -life have been dedicated to this employment; and I am now on my return, -to finish my days amongst the flock which has been so manifestly -entrusted to my care.” - -The Missionary shewed me a _Testament_, _Creed_, and _Lord’s Prayer_, in -the _Esquimaux_ tongue: but it will be easily imagined that many -deficiencies must have arisen in the first instance; consequently, -whenever the _Esquimaux_ were at a loss for words to express any new -idea, or the name of any article that they had not before seen, the -Missionary supplied them with a corresponding _German_ expression; as -the _German_ language, of all others, is most easily pronounced by an -_Esquimaux_. - -An _English_ frigate had been on a cruize in _Davis’ Straits_; and -returning thence, along the coast of _Labrador_, she put into a little -bay, for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water. The -affrighted _Esquimaux_ flew to their beloved Missionary, and pointed out -the strange vessel as the cause of their fear: they were, however, soon -pacified, and returned quietly to their occupations. Nothing, then, -could equal the astonishment of the officers, on landing; when, instead -of a wild race of savages, prepared to oppose them, they found a small -village, inhabited by an inoffensive people, peaceably employed in their -daily duties; and the little children going quietly to school, with -books under their arms. Their surprise, however, must have been greatly -increased, when they were given to understand, that all this had been -accomplished by one man, zealously actuated by a wish of serving his -God, in the services he had rendered to these poor _Indians_[8]. - -July _25th_.—Course run, W. by N. 35 miles. Light variable winds from -the southward. We were this morning visited by an officer from one of -the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; an intelligent man, who had _thirty_ times -performed the same voyage. It was his opinion, that the sharp cold, -which we had experienced on the 18th of this month, must have been -occasioned by the vicinity of ice; and we should doubtless have met with -it on that day, had we not fortunately tacked about in time to avoid it. -Our latitude at noon, this day, was 58°. 46′. N., and longitude 50°. -16′. W. Towards nightfall, the wind freshened to a fine steady breeze -from S. S. W.; and we could plainly discern a bright appearance in the -sky, towards the North; this was believed by every person on board to be -a certain indication of ice in that direction. - -July _26th_.—Course run W. by N. 128 miles.—A fine fair breeze all this -day; the ship going about seven miles an hour. In the forenoon, we took -on board the chief-mate of the _Prince of Wales_, (one of the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships,) to act as pilot, or rather to instruct us in the -management of our ship, amongst the ice in the _Straits_. He immediately -advised us to raise our anchors, lest the shocks of the heavier masses -of ice should break the stocks: we also rove smaller braces to all the -yards, that we might be able to manœuvre the ship with the greater -facility. At noon, we were in latitude, by account, 50°. 11′. N., and -longitude 54°. 20′. W. We now kept our course more to the northward, to -prevent the possibility of our falling in with the ice to the southward; -as there are always large quantities drifting out of _Hudson’s Straits_, -along the coast of _Labrador_. Ships do well, therefore, to keep to the -northward, until they reach the latitude of _Cape Resolution_; and when -that is attained, they may haul in N. W. and keep close in to the North -shore; thus making a semicircle round the ice: but they should be -particularly cautious not to keep too much to the North, until they -reach the longitude of 54° W. and are consequently quite clear of the -coast of _Greenland_. - -July _27th_.—Course run N. W. by W. 182 miles. As we were now getting -well to the northward, the air began to feel quite frigid; and the wind -drawing round to the East, we hauled up North. Latitude, at noon, was -60°. 54′. N. Longitude, 59°. 19′. Our distance from _Cape Resolution_ we -computed to be about 171 miles. In the afternoon we saw the first -_iceberg_, which was an immense mountain of solid ice, in the shape of -an English barn[9]. - -Towards evening, we passed another _iceberg_. It had a complete chain of -floating fragments on the lee-side of it, through which we butted our -way. We continued to run in for the land, all night, with a fair wind, -although it was a very thick fog, and there were numberless _icebergs_ -in all directions; indeed, it appeared to me almost miraculous, how we -escaped being dashed upon some of them. - -July _28th_.—The thick fog still continued, until 9 A.M. when it -suddenly cleared up, and we saw the island of _Cape Resolution_, bearing -E. N. E. about eighteen miles distant. We had been long wishing to get -into the _Straits_; and now that object was accomplished, we as -sincerely wished ourselves back again into the ocean. The prospect on -every side was of the most gloomy nature: the black and craggy mountains -on shore were only visible towards their bases; their summits being -covered with eternal snows, and the aspect of the countless _icebergs_, -on all sides of us, truly terrific. The strong southerly current -continually setting out from all the Northern seas has been -hypothetically explained, by supposing that Nature thus supplies the -deficiency of water occasioned by the evaporation caused by the heat of -the sun between the Tropics. It is not my intention to discuss this -philosophical question: suffice it to say, that I can bear testimony to -the existence of such a current in all the Northern seas, and along the -Coast of _Labrador_ and _Newfoundland_, facing the _Atlantic_; and the -effect caused by the continual flowing of the waters towards the South, -is attended with the most beneficial effects; as the Northern seas are -consequently cleared of the vast accumulation of ice, which would -otherwise infallibly block them up, and render all navigation -impracticable. We had taken care to get into the latitude of _Lake -Resolution_, before we bore away to make the land; and although, in -running in for the _Cape_, we still continued to steer a point to the -northward of our true course, yet, after all, the southerly current -proved so strong, as to set us to the southward of our land-fall: and on -our making the _Cape_, it was eighteen miles to the northward of us. - -During the remainder of the day, we were endeavouring, with light winds -from the N. E. to get in with the north shore; and towards evening we -saw much field ice towards the south. As the setting sun had a different -appearance to what it generally exhibits in _England_, perhaps it may be -thought worthy of notice. Although it glittered to the eye, and threw a -golden tint on the water, yet it produced no rays, and might be viewed, -for any length of time, without paining the sight by its refulgence. So -far was it from bestowing warmth, that the air appeared more intensely -cold than it had been during the whole of the preceding day. The clouds, -in parallel lines immediately above the descending luminary, exhibited, -in the most beautiful manner, all the varieties of the rainbow; the -dusky red and deep blue being the most predominant colours. If to all -this we add the dazzling reflection which glittered from the snow-capp’d -summits of the rugged mountains, and the shining fantastic forms of the -floating _icebergs_ in the _Straits_, the prospect will easily be -imagined to have excited in our minds those feelings, which induce the -mariner, as well as the poet, - - “To look, through Nature, up to Nature’s God!” - -At midnight we passed an immense _iceberg_, which roared like a thunder -storm; occasioned, perhaps, by some cavity in its side, through which -the sea was bursting. It was nearly a calm; and the surface of the sea -was quite smooth at the moment, attended with that gentle undulating -swell which is always prevalent in deep waters. - -July _29th_.—In the morning we were obliged to tack about, in order to -avoid a large assemblage of drifting masses, termed by the old seamen a -_patch_ of ice: the seals were leaping about in all directions, and some -few sea-calves were seen. The thermometer in the Captain’s cabin, with a -rousing fire, stood at 43°. At noon we were plying to windward off -_Savage Island_, which is the next land to the west of _Cape Resolution -Island_, on the north shore. _Savage Isle_, lying very low, has not so -much snow upon it, in general, as the other parts of the coast -hereabouts. The next land to the westward of it is called _Terra Nivea_; -owing to its having some mountains, about thirty miles from the sea, -entirely covered with snow. During the remaining part of this day we -continued our course up the _Straits_, but with the weather almost calm. - -July _30th_.—We were entirely surrounded this day with a patch of broken -ice, and it extended as far as the eye could reach. The sun shining -bright over the calm surface of the sea, called forcibly to my mind a -description I had once read of the Ruins of _Palmyra_, in the _Syrian -Desert_; the scattered fragments of ice bearing a strong resemblance to -the ruins of temples, statues, columns, &c. spread in confusion over a -vast plain. - - [Illustration: _Cape Saddle Back north 7 or 8 miles: with two - remarkable Icebergs off the low Point._] - - [Illustration: _Male Esquimaux in his Canoe._] - -July _31st_.—Early in the morning of this day we reached a remarkable -cape, called _Saddle Back_, from the resemblance that it bears to a -saddle: and as we were immediately visited by the _Esquimaux_, I must, -for a time, quit the ship and her proceedings, to describe the -appearance, manners, and customs of this singular race, who inhabit the -shores of _Hudson’s_ and _Davis’ Straits_, the northern part of -_Hudson’s Bay_, and both sides of the vast peninsula of _Labrador_. Upon -the first intelligence of the approach of the natives, I immediately -jumped out of bed, and ran upon deck; where, on my arrival, the most -discordant shouts and cries assailed my ears. Alongside the ship were -paddling a large assemblage of canoes, of the most curious construction: -these were built of a wooden frame-work of the lightest materials, -covered with oiled sealskin, with the hair scraped off; the skin being -sewed over the frame with the most astonishing exactness, and as tight -as parchment upon the head of a drum. But the most surprising -peculiarity of the canoes was, their being _twenty-two_ feet long, and -only _two_ feet wide. There was but one opening in the centre, -sufficiently large to admit the entrance of a man; and out of this hole -projected the body of the _Esquimaux_, visible only from the ribs -upwards. The paddle is held in the hand, by the middle; and it has a -blade at each end, curiously veneered, at the edges, with slips of a -sea-unicorn’s horn. On the top of the canoe were fastened strips of -sea-horses’ hide, to confine the lance and harpoon; and behind the -_Esquimaux_ were large lumps of whale blubber, for the purposes of -barter. These canoes are only capable of containing one person, for any -useful purpose; the slightest inclination of the body, on either side, -will inevitably overturn them; yet in these frail barks will the -_Esquimaux_ smile at the roughest sea; and in smooth water they can, -with ease, travel seven miles an hour[10]. - -Whilst I was still busily employed in making my remarks on the canoes of -the male Indians, a large open boat arrived, containing about twenty -women, besides many children. This last boat was steered by a very old -man, with a paddle: he was the only male adult amongst them. The women -pulled with oars, having a very broad wash at the extremity; and they -cheerfully kept time to the tune of a song, in which they all joined. -The boat was built of the same materials as the canoes; that is to say, -a frame-work covered with oiled seal-skins; but differed, in being -shaped more after the _European_ boats; also, in having a square sail -made of seal-skins, with the hair taken off; and owing to this -difference, the _Hudson’s-Bay_ traders have distinguished these boats by -the name of _Lug Boats_; although they never attempt to use the sail, -except with a fair wind. It is difficult to give an adequate idea of the -delight expressed by these poor creatures, on reaching the ships: they -jumped, shouted, danced, and sang, to express their joy. And here it -should be observed, that the arrival of the ships is considered by the -_Esquimaux_ as a sort of annual fair; their little manufactures of -dresses, spears, &c. are reserved for the expected jubilee; and when, -after long watching, they at last catch a glimpse of the approaching -vessels, their exultation knows no bounds. - -The male _Esquimaux_ have rather a prepossessing physiognomy, but with -very high cheek-bones, broad foreheads, and small eyes, rather farther -apart than those of an _European_: the corners of their eyelids are -drawn together so close, that none of the white is to be seen; their -mouths are wide, and their teeth white and regular: the complexion is a -dusky yellow, but some of the young women have a little colour bursting -through this dark tint: the noses of the men are rather flattened, but -those of the women are sometimes even prominent. The males are, -generally speaking, between five feet five inches and five feet eight -inches high; bony, and broad shouldered; but do not appear to possess -much muscular strength. The flesh of all the _Esquimaux_ feels soft and -flabby, which may be attributed to the nature of their food. But the -most surprising peculiarity of this people is the smallness of their -hands and feet; which is not occasioned, as in _China_, by compression, -nor by any other artificial means, as their boots and gloves are made -large, and of soft seals’-skin. To their continual employment in canoes -on the water, and to the sitting posture they are thus obliged to -preserve, perhaps their diminutive feet might be ascribed: but when we -reflect on the laborious life they must necessarily lead, and yet find -that their hands are equally small with their feet, it will naturally -lead us to the conclusion, that the same intense cold which restricts -vegetation to the forms of creeping shrubs has also its effect upon the -growth of mankind, preventing the extremities from attaining their due -proportion. - -The chin, cheek-bones, and forehead, among the women, are tattooed; and -this operation is performed among the _Esquimaux_ by pricking through -the skin with some sharp instrument, and rubbing ashes into the wound: -as the marks are not deep, their appearance is not disagreeable. I -imagine that the tattooing does not take place until the female arrives -at the age of puberty, because the youngest girls were without any such -marks. None of the men undergo the operation; but they have a few -straggling hairs on the chin and upper lip, while the women carefully -remove them from every part of the body, excepting the head, where they -have a lock on each temple, neatly braided, and bound with a thong of -hide. On the back of the head, the hair is turned up, much after the -fashion of the _English_ ladies. I hope the latter will not be offended -at the comparison. - -After having gone so far in a description of their persons, perhaps -their diet ought not to be overlooked; because it has been before -noticed, that the relaxed state of their flesh, and the sallow hue of -their complexions, may in a great measure be ascribed to the nature of -their food. As they seem to devour every thing raw, it has been -conjectured that they are unacquainted with the use of fire; but this is -not true. I observed, near one of their huts, a circle of loose stones, -containing the ashes of a recently extinguished fire, and a stone kettle -standing upon it[11]: also, in a hut, I saw a pan of vegetables, -resembling spinach, which had been boiled into the consistency of -paste[12]. Yet, after all, it is no less certain that an _Esquimaux_ -prefers all flesh raw. In proof of this it may be mentioned, that the -Commander of the _Eddystone_, a _Hudson’s-Bay_ ship, having shot a -sea-gull, an _Indian_ made signs that he wished for the bird: -immediately on receiving it, he sucked away the blood that flowed from -its mouth; then, hastily plucking off the feathers, he instantly -dispatched the body, entrails, &c. with the most surprising voracity. -The knowledge which the _Esquimaux_ possess of the use of fire, is -observable in the ingenuity with which they transform iron nails, hoops, -&c. into heads for their arrows, spears, and harpoons. May not their -fondness for raw flesh have arisen from the _scarcity of fuel_? There -was not a bit of wood to be found on that part of the coast where I -landed. - -We made many attempts to induce the natives to partake of our food. At -breakfast, we placed an _Esquimaux_ at table, and offered him every -species of food that the ship could afford. He tasted every thing; but, -with a broad laugh, he was sure to eject whatsoever he tasted, over our -plates and upon the table-cloth. The only thing they could be induced to -swallow was a piece of hog’s lard; and of this they all partook with -avidity. Above all, they appeared to have the greatest aversion from -sugar and salt. - -In their dealings, they manifested a strange mixture of honesty and -fraud. At one moment I observed an _Esquimaux_ striving, with all his -might, to convey into a sailor’s hands the article for which he had -already received his equivalent; and, in ten minutes afterwards, I -detected the same man in an endeavour to cut the hinder buttons from my -own coat. They value _metals_ more than any other article of barter, and -_iron_ most of all. As a specimen of the relative articles of traffic, I -shall briefly insert the prices which I paid for some little -curiosities[13]; viz. - - A seal’s-skin hooded frock, quite new, for a knife. - A seal’s-skin pair of breeches needle. - Seal’s-skin boots saw. - A pair of wooden spectacles, or rather shades, used by one bullet. - the _Esquimaux_ to defend their eyes against the - dazzling reflection of the sun from the ice - A pair of white feather gloves two buttons. - A fishing lance or spear file. - -They have a strange custom of licking with their tongue every thing that -comes into their possession, either by barter or otherwise; and they -evidently do not consider an article as their property until it has -undergone this operation. By way of experiment, I gave to a young girl -half a dozen iron nails: she immediately jumped, and shouted, to express -her gratitude; and then licking each nail separately, she put them into -her boot, that being the depository of all riches among the female -_Esquimaux_, who are entirely unacquainted with the use of pockets. I -could easily perceive that each man had a wife; but polygamy did not -appear to exist amongst them; perhaps more on account of their poverty, -and the difficulty of supporting a plurality of wives, than from any -idea they may entertain of the impropriety of the practice itself. -Several of the natives brought their wives on board the ship, and, in -return for a tin spoon or pot, compelled them, nothing loath, to receive -our salutations. Nay, one man plainly intimated, that if I wished to -hold any private conversation with his lady, he should have no objection -to her visiting my cabin, provided I rewarded him with an axe. Many of -the women had very pleasing features; but they were so disfigured with -dirt, and their persons smelt so strongly of the seal oil, that it -required a stout heart to salute even the prettiest of them. - -On board the ship, they were exceedingly curious in viewing every thing: -but however astonished or delighted they might appear in the first sight -of any novelty, yet ten minutes was the utmost limit of their -admiration. The pigs, cats, and fowls, attracted their attention in so -remarkable a manner, as to indicate a certainty of their not having seen -any such animals before. A sailor threw them all into the most violent -fit of jumping and shouting, by walking upon his hands along the deck. -But nothing seemed to fix their attention so much as Captain -_Stopford’s_ amputated arm[14]: they satisfied themselves, by feeling -the stump, that the arm was actually deficient, and then appeared to -wonder how it could have been lost: but when I made signs to them that -it had been severed by a saw, to the credit of their feelings, I must -state, that commiseration was depicted on every countenance. We did not -perceive an instance, either of man, woman, or child, amongst them, who -was in any way crippled or deformed. - -After breakfast, it was proposed that we should go on shore, and a party -accordingly made: we were all well armed, as a precaution against -treachery; because this people have been particularly accused of a -disposition that way,—whether with or without reason, it is impossible -for me positively to say. An _Esquimaux_, who had bartered his very last -covering away for some bauble, went with us, as a sort of pilot. On our -way to the shore, we met two of the large women’s boats; each steered, -as usual, by an old man. They expressed great joy at meeting with us, by -singing, shouting, and clapping their hands; and instead of proceeding -on toward the ships, they turned their boats, and followed us to the -shore. The coast appears to be completely fringed with small rocky -islands, and these no doubt form a shelter to many good harbours; but -the shores of _Hudson’s Straits_ have never been thoroughly examined, -although a small vessel might accomplish the task in two summers, with -ease: indeed, a voyage for this purpose would, if well conducted, turn -out advantageously, in a mercantile point of view; for although the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ Company’s ships do not procure much oil or whalebone from -the _Esquimaux_, it is because they have but little intercourse with -this people, and perhaps with only one particular tribe: yet it might be -very profitable to any merchant to send a small strong brig into -_Hudson’s Straits_, early in the month of June, so as to reach _Cape -Saddle-Back_ before the Company’s ships arrive. The _Hudson’s-Bay_ -Company would not wish to interrupt so laudable an attempt towards -opening a free intercourse with the wild _Esquimaux_ in those seas; -because the profits they derive from the traffic in question are -comparatively trifling, when put in competition with the other more -important objects of their annual voyage. A vessel intended for this -employ should not remain later than the beginning of October in the -_Straits_; and she ought to be well provided with saws, iron lances, -harpoons, files, open knives, kettles, spoons, hatchets, and a few beads -and looking-glasses. By coasting along both sides of the _Straits_, and -as far to the southward of _Cape Diggs_ or _Cape Smith_, she might -doubtless gather thirty or forty tons of good oil, besides whalebone and -a few skins. But the Master of a vessel, during such an expedition, -should be particularly cautious in not trusting a boat on shore, unless -well armed; and by no means ought he to admit more than _two_ or _three -Esquimaux_ at the same time into his vessel, however friendly they might -appear to be. - -But to return to our party, whom I left pulling in for the shore, under -the guidance of the naked _Esquimaux_, who continued pointing for us to -proceed still farther to the west, where some natives, from the bottom -of a creek, waved their hands for us to approach. A sort of -expostulation took place between these people and our conductor, by -which it seemed, that the former did not wish us to proceed any farther -to the west. We therefore landed, but walked about some time without -observing any habitations; although, from the deers’ bones and ashes -which lay scattered about the hills, it was evident that a party had not -long quitted the spot. From appearances upon the hills, we had reason to -suppose that rabbits must be abundant; and we were gradually receding -from the sea shore in search of them, when our guide stopped short, and -would not be prevailed upon, by any entreaties, to accompany us farther. -We could not guess the cause of this extra-ordinary conduct; but not -wishing to give any offence to the natives, we turned about, and -descended again to our boats. On our way to the beach, we were joined by -some young girls, to whom we had been, perhaps, rather pointedly -attentive on board the ships: they continued to pester us with the -continual whine of this people, repeating incessantly the word -“_Pillitay! pillitay! pillitay!_” signifying “_Give us something_:” and -having now stripped us of every thing, by their solicitations, they only -seemed to have acquired an incitement to make new demands. It is -generally the case with all barbarous nations, that the receiving of a -gift appears to them to confer a right to levy fresh contributions: -therefore, in all dealings with savages, it is adviseable to teach them -that something will be expected in return for every present bestowed; -and the equivalent should be strenuously insisted upon, let it be of -ever so trifling a nature. A departure from this rule may, indeed, be -necessary in the first opening of a communication with a strange people; -but, even then, the presents ought only to be bestowed on the principal -chieftains, priests, and women. - -As we were upon the point of re-embarking, one of our party offered to a -young girl, who stood on the beach, a pinch of snuff; shewing her, at -the same time, how it was to be used. She imitated her instructor with -great exactness, giving a hearty sniff; but it was attended with rather -a violent effect; a torrent of blood instantly gushing from her nose. -Entertaining some apprehensions lest the natives should imagine that we -had been guilty of a premeditated injury to the poor girl, we all made a -point of taking snuff before her: this had the desired effect, in -convincing them that no serious evil was to be apprehended; and the -young woman went, at my request, to wash her nose in a neighbouring -pool. Unfortunately, the cold water produced a contrary effect to what -was intended; the blood again streaming from her nose: yet so far was -this mild creature from being offended, that she smilingly held forth -her hand to me, with the old exclamation of “_Pillitay!_ (Give).” I cut -two brass buttons from my coat, and gave them to her; and with this -atonement she was quite satisfied. The fact is, as we afterwards -discovered, that bleeding at the nose is a most common incident among -the _Esquimaux_; and it is certain to follow the least exertion. -Possibly this may also be occasioned by the quantities of raw flesh they -devour daily. - -Perhaps some readers may deem an incident like the foregoing of too -trifling a description to merit a recital; but the manners, -dispositions, and customs of a wild people may be better judged of from -a simple relation of the most trivial circumstances, than from any -inferences which the narrator himself might presume to draw from them: -therefore I would run the chance of being thought jejune, or even -tedious, rather than incur the greater risk of misleading others by my -own weak conclusions. - - [Illustration: huts] - -Embarking again, we pulled along shore, towards the west, among barren -rocky islands, until we at last got sight of some huts on an eminence at -the bottom of a creek; and putting ashore, we examined them minutely. -They are more properly tents than huts, because they are erected much -after the fashion of a marquee: a triangle supports the tent at one end, -and two poles, fastened at the top, at the other: over all is thrown a -covering of seals’-skins sewed together, the hair being scraped off: -they are equally impervious to air or water, and the light is much the -same as in the interior of an _European_ linen tent. At the lower end of -their dwellings is a flap of seal’s-skin, left loose, to answer the -purpose of a door; and when this is thrown back, a person must stoop low -to enter. If a whole family happen to be absent from their home at the -same time, the only security for their property, during the time they -are away, consists in a few loose stones piled against the flap of -seal-skin which covers the entrance to the tent: and although they be -not rigidly honest towards strangers, yet the _Esquimaux_ appear to have -a great respect for each other’s property. At the top of their huts is a -piece of wood, in an horizontal position, for the purpose of supporting -slips of the sea-horse’s hide to dry in the sun; and of this hide they -form a sort of rope, possessing uncommon strength, and useful to them in -a variety of ways. - -With respect to the interior of their habitations, it is a general -custom to appropriate the lower end or entrance of the tent to answer -the purpose of a larder, where all their delicacies are displayed; such -as, deer’s flesh, oil, and whale blubber. The upper end of the tent, -under the triangle, was thickly carpeted with skins of different -animals, particularly the deer, and it is set apart for their resting -and sleeping place. I noticed, that whenever I entered a tent, which had -not been previously visited by any of our party, the owner of it ran -forward, with great precipitation, to conceal something under the skins -at the farther end of the tent. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into -this mysterious conduct; and, on removing the skins, I discovered his -bow and arrows, in a sort of seal-skin quiver. The owner stood quite -tranquil during my search, and he did not appear angry when the arms -were produced; but when I offered him a knife, with the usual -expression, “_Chymo_ (barter),” he smiled, as I thought, rather -suspiciously; and taking the quiver gently out of my hand, he replaced -it under the skins; at the same time, offering me an unfinished bow, -without a string, in exchange for the knife. As often as I continued to -point to the quiver, and make signs that I wished to purchase the set -complete, he seemed to feel confused, and endeavoured instantly to draw -off my attention from the subject. I tried at each tent, with no better -success; and it struck me, from appearances, that the _Esquimaux_ have -some superstitious veneration for their bows and arrows: but their -hiding them may be intended as a compliment to their visitors, or an -assurance of their security whilst under that roof. None of the canoes -that visited us, during our stay in _Hudson’s Straits_, had either bow -or arrows on board; consequently, they are only used by the _Esquimaux_ -in their wars, and not for the purpose of killing birds or fishes. After -having said this respecting their singular attachment to their weapons, -perhaps it will be expected that those articles are curiously -manufactured and ornamented: but the bow is merely made of two pieces of -plain wood, firmly corded together, and rarely strengthened at the back -with thongs of the sea-horse’s hide; the string is formed of two slips -of hide or dried gut; the arrows are headed, either with iron, -sea-horse’s teeth, sea-unicorn’s horn, or, in some few instances, with -stone[15]; and the whole fabrication of the bow and arrows does not -surpass the workmanship of an English school-boy. - -In one of their tents, I saw a female far advanced in pregnancy; she was -sitting upon the ground, closely wrapt in skins as high as her hips; and -during the whole of my stay, she never attempted to rise. It may now be -proper to relate an anecdote of a very interesting nature; which I -received upon such indisputable authority, that it will not admit of a -doubt, as to its veracity. - -The land to the northward of _Churchill Factory_, in _Hudson’s Bay_, is -inhabited by _Esquimaux_, who, contrary to the general customs of this -people, employ themselves in hunting. They carry their furs annually to -_Churchill Factory_, for the purpose of traffic. In one of their -periodical visits, a young woman was seen amongst them, having a sickly -infant in her arms, respecting whose health she appeared to be -particularly solicitous; and as some of the domesticated _Indian_ women -in the factory, belonging to the nation of _Cree Indians_, partly -understood the _Esquimaux_ tongue, the young woman explained to them, -that, as the infant was her first-born child, if it should unfortunately -die, her husband would undoubtedly put her to death. The infant expired -shortly after this explanation took place; and some _Europeans_ visiting -the _Esquimaux_ encampment a day or two afterwards, made inquiries -respecting the unhappy mother; when the _Indians_ silently pointed to -the spot where the poor victim was interred! - -This circumstance has given rise to an assertion, that if a first-born -child die before it reaches a particular age, the mother is certain of -being immolated, for a supposed want of attention to her infant. I had -no means of ascertaining this singular custom myself; but I have before -observed, that there did not appear either sickly or deformed child or -adult amongst them. - -Their fire-places, as before stated, are outside the tents; and they -have no need of any in the interior, as the seal-skins that cover them -are like parchment oiled, and will not admit the wind, nor give egress -to the breath; therefore their habitations are not only warm, but at -mid-day, when I visited them, they were oppressively hot. With respect -to their winter residence, I can say little or nothing. Most people -suppose that they live in caves, by lamp-light; but the Abbé _Raynal_, -who mentions the _Esquimaux_ in his History of the _East_ and _West -Indies_, is of a different opinion. As the Abbé is both correct and -incorrect, in many points of which I had a good opportunity to judge, -perhaps it may not be amiss to give an extract from the part of his work -relating to the _Esquimaux Indians_. - -“This sterility of Nature extends itself to every thing. The human race -are few in number, _and scarce any of its individuals above four feet -high. Their heads bear the same enormous proportion to their bodies as -those of children_: the smallness of their feet makes them awkward and -tottering in their gait: small hands, and a round mouth, which in -_Europe_ are reckoned a beauty, seem almost a deformity in these people; -because we see nothing here but the effects of a weak organization, and -of a cold that contracts and restrains the springs of growth, and is -fatal to the progress of animal as well as vegetable life. Besides all -this, their men, although they _have neither hair nor beard_, have the -appearance of being old, even in their youth: this is partly occasioned -by the _formation of their lower lip, which is thick, fleshy, and -projecting beyond the upper_. Such are the _Esquimaux_, who inhabit not -only the coast of _Labrador, from whence they have taken their name_, -but also all that tract of land which extends from the point of -_Bellisle_ to the most northern part of _America_. - -“_The inhabitants of Hudson’s-Bay_ have, like the _Greenlanders_, a flat -face, with short, but not flattened noses; _the pupil of their eyes -yellow, and the iris black_. Their women have marks of deformity -peculiar to their sex; amongst others, very long and flabby breasts. -This deformity, which is not natural, arises from their custom of giving -suck to their children until they are five or six years old. They -frequently carry their children on their shoulders, who pull their -mothers’ breasts with their hands, and almost suspend themselves by -them. - -“It is not true, that there are races of _Esquimaux_ entirely black, as -has been supposed, and afterwards pretended to be accounted for; neither -do they live under ground. How should they dig into a soil, which the -cold renders harder than stone? How is it possible they should live in -caverns, where they would be infallibly drowned by the first melting of -the snows? What, however, is certain, and almost equally surprising, is, -that these people spend the winter under huts, run up in haste, and made -of flints joined together by cements of ice, where they live without any -other fire, but that of a lamp hung up in the middle of the shed, for -the purpose of dressing their game, and the fish they feed upon. The -heat of their blood and of their breath, added to the vapour arising -from this small flame, is sufficient to make their huts as hot as -stoves. - -“The _Esquimaux_ dwell constantly near the sea, from whence they are -supplied with all their provisions. Both their constitutions and -complexions partake of the quality of their food. The flesh of the seal, -which is their food, and the oil of the whale, which is their drink, -give them an olive complexion, a strong smell of fish, an oily and -tenacious sweat, and sometimes a sort of scaly leprosy. This last is -probably the reason why the mothers have the same custom as the bears of -licking their young ones. - -“This nation, weak and degraded by nature, is, notwithstanding, most -intrepid on a sea that is constantly dangerous. In boats, made and sewed -together like so many borachio’s, but at the same time so well closed -that it is impossible for the water to penetrate them, they follow the -shoals of herrings through the whole of their polar emigrations, and -attack the whales and seals at the peril of their lives. - -“One stroke of a whale’s tail is sufficient to drown a hundred of these -assailants; _and the seal is armed with teeth, to devour those he cannot -drown_: but the hunger of the _Esquimaux_ is superior to the rage of -these monsters. They have an inordinate thirst for the oil of the whale, -which is necessary to preserve the heat in their stomachs, and defend -them from the severity of the cold. Indeed, men, whales, birds, and all -the quadrupeds and fishes of the North, are supplied by nature with a -degree of fat, which prevents the muscles from freezing, and the blood -from coagulating. Every thing in these Arctic regions is either oily or -gummy, and even the trees are resinous. - -“The _Esquimaux_ are, notwithstanding, subject to two fatal disorders; -the scurvy, and loss of sight. The continuation of snows upon the -ground, joined to the reverberation of the rays of the sun on the ice, -dazzle their eyes in such a manner, that they are almost constantly -obliged to wear shades of two pieces of very thin wood, through which -small apertures for the light have been bored with fish-bones. Doomed to -six months’ night, they never see the sun but obliquely; and then it -seems rather to blind them, than to give them light. Sight, the most -delightful blessing of nature, is a fatal gift to them, _and they are -generally deprived of it when young_. A still more cruel evil, which is -the scurvy, consumes them by slow degrees: it insinuates itself into -their blood, and changes, thickens, and impoverishes the whole mass. The -fogs of the sea, which they inspire; the dense and inelastic air they -breathe in their huts, which are shut up from all communication with the -external air; the constant and tedious inactivity of their winters; a -mode of life alternately roving and sedentary; every thing, in short, -tends to increase this dreadful malady, which in a little time becomes -contagious, and, spreading itself through their abodes, is transmitted -by cohabitation, and perhaps likewise by the means of generation. - -“Notwithstanding these inconveniences, the _Esquimaux_ is so -passionately attached to his country, that no inhabitant of the -most-favoured spot under Heaven quits it with greater reluctance, than -he does his frozen deserts. The difficulty he finds in breathing in a -softer and cooler climate may possibly be the reason of this attachment. -The sky of _Amsterdam_, _Copenhagen_, and _London_, though constantly -obscured by thick and fetid vapours, is too clear for an _Esquimaux_. -Perhaps, too, there may be something in the change of life and manners -more contrary to the health of savages than the climate: it is not -impossible but that the indulgences of an _European_ may be poison to an -_Esquimaux_.—Such are the inhabitants of a _country discovered, in 1610, -by Henry Hudson_!” - -Although many parts of the foregoing extract are strictly descriptive of -the _Esquimaux_, yet it is very evident that the Abbé _Raynal_ has -undertaken to describe a people whom he never saw: consequently, nothing -can be more absurd than those remarks which, it may be observed, I have -particularized: and I shall now notice them, in the order in which they -occur. - -In the first place, the Abbé says, that “_scarce any of the individuals -are above four feet high!_” It has been before noticed, that, of all -those whom we saw, a fair average standard might determine their height -to be between five feet five inches, and five feet eight inches: -moreover, we even saw some of the females five feet seven inches high. -In the next place, he observes: “_Their heads bear the same enormous -proportion to their bodies as those of children._” This, again, is about -as fabulous as those old stories of a race having been discovered with -_two heads_. There is certainly nothing peculiar about the heads of the -_Esquimaux_, to distinguish them from the _Europeans_; unless, indeed, -we except the enormous quantity of thick, coarse, straight, black hair, -which covers them: and this last fact will bear rather hard upon the -next marvellous remark of the Abbé’s, in which he asserts that _they -have neither hair nor beard_! The amazing coarseness of their hair, -which generally is as thick as a mat on their heads, is, of all others, -the most likely characteristic to strike the attention of a stranger: -they have also a straggling beard upon the chin and upper lip; although, -certainly, it must be admitted that the beard never grows thick or -bushy. - -The aged appearance of the _Esquimaux_ is, as he says, owing to the -_formation of their lower lip_!—Being able to adduce, if necessary, the -testimony of a hundred witnesses to prove the truth of my assertions, I -shall content myself with simply stating, that there is no such -_projection of the lower lip_ as the Abbé has described. He states that -the _Esquimaux_ have _taken their name from the coast of Labrador_; but -_Esquimaux_, or _Skimaux_, is an expression, in the language of the -_Cree_ and other inland _Indians_, signifying “_eaters of raw flesh!_” -and they have bestowed this appellation on the maritime _Indians_, in -contempt; as there has always been a most deadly hatred between them. - -Then again, with a bold dash of his pen, the Abbé peoples the _whole of -Hudson’s Bay with Esquimaux_: whereas, in fact, they occupy but a very -small proportion of it, when compared with the vast extent of territory -inhabited by the different tribes of Hunting _Indians_, the inveterate -enemies of the _Esquimaux_. The northern and unexplored parts of the -Bay, and the western shore of _Labrador_, from _Cape Diggs_ to the -southward, are alone inhabited by the latter; whilst the whole of the -western and southern shores are peopled by the former. - -I know not what could have induced him, also, to describe the -_Esquimaux_ as having “_the pupil of their eyes yellow, and the iris -black_:” this is not true; but I suppose that such a supposition may -have arisen from that peculiar contraction of the eyelids which has -already been noticed in the foregoing part of this Narrative. - -It is not less absurd to affirm, that “_the seal is armed with teeth, to -devour those he cannot drown_,” than to say, that the hare is armed with -teeth, to devour those dogs from which she cannot escape;—the former -being almost as timid an animal as the latter; and there cannot be much -danger from the _rage of that monster_, who coolly suffers a man to -strike him a blow over the nose, which puts an almost immediate end to -his existence. - -I believe _Raynal_ to be very correct in his remarks on the prevalent -diseases of the _Esquimaux_; but he goes too far, in asserting that -“_they are generally deprived of sight when young_.” Sore eyes, indeed, -are common amongst them; but there were many old men without this -complaint, and few of the women were troubled with it. “_Such_,” he -concludes, “_are the inhabitants of a country discovered, in 1610, by -Henry Hudson_.”—However, if curiosity should lead any person hereafter -to visit the shores of _Labrador_, in the hopes of meeting with a race -of people _four feet in height_, with _enormous heads_ without _any hair -on them_, and _yellow eye-balls_, he will be grievously disappointed: -and so far are they from being that miserable degraded race which the -Abbé describes them to be, that they are really possessed of industry, -ingenuity, and courage; and certainly as far superior to the disgusting -_Hottentot_, as an _European_ is superior to that race of men. - -After having ventured to correct these errors of the Abbé, it would be -injustice if I did not bear testimony to the authenticity of his -description in other respects. The scaly leprosy, which he mentions, is -common amongst them: we at first believed it to be the small-pox, to -which it bears a great resemblance; but, from an attentive inspection -being made by Mr. _Arnot_, our surgeon, he was of opinion, that the -latter disease had not as yet reached them, or that, if it had, it must -have been in its mildest form. Almost all the men are afflicted with -_ophthalmia_, and wear the wooden shades which the Abbé has described; -but, as I before mentioned, few of the women labour under this disease. -The pendant breasts of the latter have certainly a disgusting -appearance; yet it is so common amongst them, that one of the young -girls shewed me, with conscious pride, that her breasts had not as yet -been thus relaxed; intimating, that she differed from the other dusky -damsels in this respect, and was therefore to be considered as an object -of greater admiration. From which it is evident, that they consider long -breasts as a deformity, even among themselves. - -With respect to their winter habitations, it is more probable that the -Abbé is correct, than that those persons are so, who entertain the -notion of their residing in caverns; but it is not certain that the -_Esquimaux_ live in a state of total inactivity during the winter: they -must, doubtless, leave their retreats daily, in search of food: and that -they do not depend on the water for all their supplies, is very evident, -from the number of deer-skins which may be observed in every habitation. - -It is now pretty well ascertained that the tribes of _Esquimaux_, -inhabiting the northern shores of _Hudson’s Straits_, migrate, in the -fall of the year, towards the south; for the double purpose of taking up -their winter quarters, and of procuring fuel and game amongst the -pine-tree forests of _Labrador_. The northern shore of _Hudson’s -Straits_ is, from end to end, a barren rock; having no mark of -vegetation, except here and there a tuft or two of wild sorrel, or -scurvy-grass: consequently, the wooden frame-work of the canoes, the -poles for their summer-tents, and the handles of their fishing-spears, -can only be procured by the _Esquimaux_ during their annual migrations -to the coast of _Labrador_. Add to this, that, on our visit to their -tents, we observed five or six large boats, hauled up on the shore, and -completely laden with all sorts of furs and necessaries, as if -preparatory to a speedy removal of the whole tribe into winter quarters. - -I should not have been led into so long a digression, had it not been -from a wish to correct the very erroneous statements, of even the most -eminent authors, respecting this singular race. That those authors have -derived their descriptions from the confused accounts of other writers, -is evident, by the gross mistakes they have fallen into. It is indeed -probable, that, of those who have written upon this subject, no one ever -personally visited the _Esquimaux_: neither is it a surprising thing -that they have not done this, because the _Esquimaux_ have always been -represented hostile to strangers, prone to treachery, and exceedingly -disgusting in their persons. - -To return, then, to our party.—We continued roving for some time amongst -the habitations of the _Esquimaux_; and could not help admiring the -various ways in which they contrive to render the seal useful: indeed, -this creature may be said to supply them with food, light, clothes, -houses, beds, boats, and casks. The blubber of the seal is either eaten, -or converted into oil for the winter lamps; the skin, with the hair on, -is made into frocks, breeches, boots, and stockings; and with the hair -scraped off, and well oiled, the skin serves also for a covering to -their houses and boats: numbers of them, heaped together with the skins -of bears and deer, constitute their beds: lastly, after having carefully -skinned a seal, the females sew the hide neatly up; then fill it with -wind, like a bladder, and dry it in the sun; and, after this -preparation, it fully answers all the purposes of a cask, for containing -oil, or any other liquid for which it may be required; in the same -manner as the mountaineers of _Spain_ and _Portugal_ carry their wine in -the skins of animals. - -The _Esquimaux_ have various methods of killing the seal; but the most -common is, by spearing him with a long lance, which they discharge from -a _throwing stick_, exactly in the same manner as described by _Cook_ to -be in use among the natives of _Otaheite_. The seal, when once struck, -becomes an easy prey: a large bladder, affixed to the dart, effectually -prevents his sinking; and a heavy log of wood, also fastened to the -dart, acts as a drag, to prevent his swimming away with any velocity. -They have also a manner of passing the handle of the lance through the -centre of a sort of tambourine; which, in this case, is substituted for -the drag: of course, the seal is soon exhausted, with the efforts he is -compelled to make, in pulling this machine against the water; and a blow -on the nose, from his pursuers, soon puts a period to his existence. - -After leaving their huts, we stood on the top of a hill, with the whole -of the remaining population of the place around us:—I say, the remaining -population; because many of the natives were still trafficking on board -the ships. From their numbers, I should think that either several -families must reside in one tent, or that there were other hamlets along -the shore, at a short distance, from whence we had visitors; as the -assemblage on the hill with us consisted of ten men, twenty women, and -fourteen children; and yet there were only nine finished tents, and four -or five in the frame. - -Nothing, as before observed, can be more troublesome than the continual -solicitations of these people for gifts; men, women, and children, -tormented us incessantly with “_Pillitay! pillitay! pillitay!_” It -became therefore, at last, absolutely necessary, in our own defence, to -invent some means of diverting their attention from these importunities. -Accordingly, one of our party, who was well acquainted with the manners -of the _Indians_ in _Hudson’s Bay_, began a song in the language of the -_Cree_ tribe. The _Esquimaux_ gaped with great astonishment and evident -pleasure, preserving the most profound silence, until he gave a loud -shout, as a finale; when they sat up an universal shouting and jumping, -and it appeared as if they were half beside themselves with delight: yet -we were certain that they understood nothing of the sense of the song. -We thought this a good opportunity to petition them for a similar -favour: our signs were instantly comprehended, and a ring immediately -formed, consisting entirely of women, with the exception of an old man, -whom we recognised to have seen before, as steersman of one of the large -women’s boats. This old man began the song; walking, at the same time, -in a circle; followed by the women, with their backs to each other. At a -certain turn in the air, the women all raised their voices; I shall not -say in a chorus, as it appeared more like a continuation of the song. -After a short time, the women suffered their voices to die gradually -away, in the most plaintive manner; and the old man again resumed the -song alone, until a similar turn again brought in the women’s voices. -This alternation lasted a considerable time; during which they still -continued to walk round in a circle, and all the while bestowed the most -friendly smiles upon us. Meantime, the men stood scattered outside the -ring; and whenever the old man resumed his song, they jumped, shouted, -and laughed, in the most extravagant manner. One of the men at last -kissed two of the females, making plain signs for us to take the same -liberty, in rotation, with the whole circle; at the same time uttering, -repeatedly, the exclamation, “_Coo-nee!_” We, however, pretended not to -comprehend his meaning, as we were not at all desirous of so -indiscriminate a salutation. I noticed one of the women earnestly making -the same gesticulations, and crying out “_Coo-nee!_” also; but as we did -not comply, they soon after finished the song. We adopted their own -method of jumping and shouting, to express our satisfaction; at which -they seemed particularly well pleased. - -Preparing now to leave this interesting spot, we descended to the sea, -followed by the whole of the natives: and as I turned about to observe -if there were any thing belonging to their tents which had before -escaped our notice, my eyes rested upon a group of about a dozen huge -dogs, around a piece of whale blubber. It is really surprising what -numbers of these animals the _Esquimaux_ uselessly support during -summer; but they are amply repaid by the benefits derived from them in -the winter; as the dogs are then employed to drag the sledge of their -owners, after the manner of the reindeer in _Lapland_. In -_Newfoundland_, and in its environs, large dogs are also used, for the -purpose of transporting fire-wood, and other articles, over the snow: -and I have been assured, by a respectable merchant, who resides -occasionally at _Lance-a-Loup Bay_ on the southern coast of _Labrador_, -that he has travelled one hundred miles in twenty-four hours, in a -sledge drawn by ten brace of dogs: they are not accustomed to reins, but -two well-trained dogs are placed foremost, and the whole are then -managed by a singular kind of whip, the use of which it is difficult to -acquire, as the handle is but three feet long, and the lash fifteen.[16] - - [Illustration: _Sledge drawn by Dogs. - used by European Traders at Hudson’s Bay, and on the Southern Coast of - Labrador_] - - [Illustration: _Engraved by J. Smith & Clements Inc. Strand - Bark Canoe of the Cree Indians in Hudsons Bay. - London Published by J. Mawman 13^th May 1817_] - -After giving away amongst the natives all the metals we possessed, even -to the buttons of our coats, we embarked; and resting upon our oars, at -a trifling distance from the shore, we gave them three hearty cheers. -This was merely intended by us as an experiment; but the effect produced -by it surpassed in interest any thing that we had yet seen amongst this -people. - -The echoes of our huzzas had scarce subsided, before the three young -girls, who had attended us the whole day, stepped down to the edge of -the water; having each of them previously drawn on a pair of gloves made -of white feathers. They first held out their arms, in an horizontal -position, with the fingers extended; then waved them to and fro, with an -undulating motion; and, at last, suddenly sunk them towards the earth. -Again, recommencing for a short time the waving of their hands, they -finished this affecting ceremony by extending both arms, to their full -extent, towards the right side, pointing their snow-white gloves towards -the sky. They continued to repeat the same motions without the least -variation, until we began to pull away from the shore; when they ceased -entirely, and retired into the crowd of natives, who had stood behind -the three girls during the foregoing exhibition, and, in profound -silence, appeared to be watching every motion. Never had we seen a more -interesting spectacle: the young _Esquimaux_ kept the most exact time -with each other, and accompanied their gestures by the most graceful -motion of their heads; their eyes bespeaking, at the same time, the most -tender solicitude for our safety. It is not a trifling matter that can -agitate, even for a moment, the rough feelings of a seaman; yet the -crews of our boats sat, during this scene, in mute astonishment, with -their mouths wide open; and at last, with the utmost reluctance, we tore -ourselves away. - -Unlike the generality of savage nations, this people did not exhibit any -dances peculiar to themselves: the only instance that we observed, to -prove they have an idea of dancing, was on board the ship; here a young -girl threw one leg out, and then another, alternately, for some time; -when, stopping suddenly, she shut her eyes, and, holding her head down, -fell to moaning and howling, as if in great pain: next followed a -convulsive gurgling in the throat, and deep-drawn sighs; then gradually -opening her eyes, and relaxing her features into a smile, she repeated -the whole over again. - -It is a curious fact, that the inland or hunting tribes of _Indians_ in -_Hudson’s Bay_ believe the _Esquimaux_ to be a nation of sorcerers. -Should the season prove a bad one in procuring their furs, they say that -the _Esquimaux_ have enchanted the game; and they then set off to the -northward, to punish them accordingly. Whenever they discover the tents -of the supposed magicians, they remain lurking about the place until a -favourable opportunity offers; when, raising the dreadful war-whoop, -they rush on to the attack with inconceivable fury. Every individual of -the vanquished is instantly massacred, whether they make resistance, or -implore for mercy. The animosity between them is hereditary, bloody, and -implacable. - -When Mr. _Hearne_ travelled to the N. W. in search of the long-sought -passage to the _Southern Ocean_, he was escorted by a party of _Cree -Indians_, and was himself an eye-witness of the massacre of an -_Esquimaux_ tribe; although he used his most earnest entreaties with his -conductors, to spare an innocent-looking young girl who had supplicated -his protection: the _Indians_ frowned furiously upon him; and asking, -with haughty contempt, _if he wanted an Esquimaux wife_, they speared -her to death on the spot[17]. - -It is rather remarkable, that the habitations of the _Esquimaux_ had -never before been visited by the officers of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships, -although they had often landed in the Straits: but this may be explained -in two ways. In the first place, the _Esquimaux_ are evidently anxious -to conceal their places of abode; secondly, the commanders of the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have directions from the Company not to go on shore -amongst the _Esquimaux_ themselves, nor to send their boats; and they -have orders also to be continually on their guard, in all communications -with this people. Possibly these orders have been issued since the -horrid termination of an attempt to establish a permanent white whale -fishery at _Richmond_; and probably that circumstance may have given -rise to the regulation. I shall relate the dreadful story in the sequel, -when I reach that part of my Narrative where it will be necessary to -give a short description of the factories in _Hudson’s Bay_: it would be -considered as too long a digression to insert it at present. We had the -good fortune, therefore, to be the first _Europeans_ who, for the last -forty years, have visited the habitations of the _Esquimaux_. I have -thus been enabled to describe them fully, from my own observations. And -there is another point upon which I am able to speak _positively_, -although the circumstance did not fall under my own inspection: I allude -to the manner of disposing of their dead. - -His Majesty’s ship _Brazen_, Captain _Stirling_, in the year 1813, -convoyed the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships into the Bay. Captain _Stirling_ and -some of his officers landed in the Straits, but could not find any -habitations of the natives: however, in wandering about the hills, they -discovered an object of no less curiosity; namely, the dead body of an -_Esquimaux_: it was closely wrapt in skins, and laid in a sort of gully -between two rocks, as if intended to be defended from the cold winds of -the ocean: by the side of the corpse lay the bow and arrows, spears, and -harpoon of the deceased; together with a tin pot, containing a few beads -and three or four _English_ halfpence: the last articles had evidently -been procured by the deceased in traffic with the Company’s ships. - -The reason of the body having been laid on the surface of the earth, is -in consequence of the impossibility of penetrating the flinty rock, of -which the whole coast is composed; and the custom of depositing his arms -by the side of the corpse of a deceased _Indian_, is common to many -barbarous nations.[18] - -As it may be expected that something should be said respecting the -government and religion of the _Esquimaux_, I shall briefly state, that -they did not appear to me to trouble their heads with either. They -certainly paid great respect to the old man who sang to us the song -before mentioned; but it does not necessarily follow that he was either -a prince or a priest. It is probable that they venerated him more on -account of his age, than from any civil or ecclesiastical authority with -which he was invested. But the _Esquimaux_, and all other nations around -_Hudson’s Bay_, have a notion of a superior spirit, whom they concur in -styling _Manéto_, or _Good Spirit_. It is not known whether the -_Esquimaux_ have any idea of an Evil Being; but the _Cree Indians_ -imagine that there is a great number of that species, whose sole delight -consists in tormenting mankind[19]. - -With respect to the language of the _Esquimaux_, I have been able to -collect a few specimens: and I shall insert, against each word, in what -part of the coast each expression was ascertained to be in use, and the -authority from whence I derived my information. - - Words. Signification. Where used. Authority. - - Chymo _Barter._ On the shores of Ascertained by - _Hudson’s myself. - Straits_. - Pillitay _Give me - something._ - We-we _A white goose._ - Wau-ve _An egg._ - Muck Mhameek _A knife._ - Kippy Swau, beck _A saw._ - Muck-tu _A deer._ - Twau-ve _Go away—begone._ - Tuck-tu _Seal blubber._ - Kiack _Canoe._ _Churchill_, and Ascertained by - in _Hudson’s one of the most - Straits_. respectable - Traders - belonging to - _Churchill - Factory_. - Omiack _A ship._ - Kannau weet ameg _A dart._ - Ye meck _Water._ - Hennelay _A woman._ - Aunay _Far off._ - Cob-loo-nak _An Englishman._ _Churchill - Factory._ - Mai _Good._ - Nagga Mai _Not good._ - Karrack _Wood._ - Peo-me-wonga _I would have._ By the Natives By the _German_ - of the Missionary - Missionary before mentioned. - Settlement. - Ak-ka-karor _It shall have - mapock payment._ - - Having given a short account of the _Esquimaux_, their manners, and -customs, I may now proceed with my Journal as before; and content myself -with making a few cursory remarks, as we sail along. - - August _1st_.—The whole of this day we continued off _Saddle -Back_[20]; as the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships had some arrangements to make, -previous to their final separation, which always takes place off -_Mansfield Island_, at the entrance of _Hudson’s Bay_. Towards evening, -we began to ply to windward, with a fresh breeze at west. Thermometer -40° in the shade. - - August _2d_.—Beating to windward with a strong breeze, in the -afternoon we hove-to off _Icy Cove_, about a mile to the westward of two -remarkable hills, called the _Virgin’s Paps_, which last lay nine -leagues to the westward of _Saddle Back_. On firing a gun and hoisting -our colours, we were immediately visited by another party of -_Esquimaux_: there was no difference whatever in their appearance from -those we had seen before. One of our officers purchased a canoe of a -native, for which he paid a kettle, a lance, a saw, and a spoon. Our -curiosity was considerably excited, to observe in what manner this man -would contrive to reach the shore; and we really entertained serious -apprehensions for his safety, when we perceived him stretch himself out -upon his belly on another canoe, at the back of the man who used the -paddle. He was in this dangerous position conveyed to land, not daring -to lift his head, through fear of destroying the equilibrium of the -canoe; which did not swim two inches above the surface of the sea. - - After night-fall, we were compelled to tack ship about, to avoid a -large patch of floating ice. - - August _3d_.—We continued plying to windward all this day; and in -the evening we had reached _Upper Savage Island_. It lays about -twenty-three leagues to the west of _Saddle Back_, in an opening which -has never been explored. Thermometer 32° in the sun. - - August _4th_.—Towards the evening of this day we had a fair wind, -the ship butting her way through immense quantities of ice. Passed by a -bluff cape, called _Point Look-out_. This cape is eight leagues to the -west of _Upper Savage Island_. We saw a number of _Esquimaux_ following -us among the windings of the loose ice. These poor creatures laboured -hard to overtake us, hallooing and shouting “_Chymo!_” but we were now -exceedingly anxious to get forward, and therefore could not wait for -them; at which their disappointment must have been great. - - August _5th_.—This morning forcing our way with difficulty through -the ocean of ice that surrounded us; at length, being enveloped in a -thick fog, and the wind dying away, we lashed our ship to a large piece -of ice; and firing three guns as a signal for our convoy to do the same, -we were astonished at the effect produced by the cannon, The explosion -issued like thunder over the ice; then appeared to roll rumbling back -towards the ship; bellowing forth again in tremendous peals. The echo -died away in distant reverberation. - - Shortly afterwards, we imagined that we could distinguish the sound -of voices through the fog: we immediately beat the drum, to point out -our situation; and, in a few minutes, we plainly heard the shouting of -the _Esquimaux_: they soon came alongside the ship, with the usual -expressions of delight. It is really surprising that this people should -venture so far from the land, in such frail barks, through a mass of ice -which is enough to daunt an _European_, even in a stout-built ship. - - The fog clearing away, we cast the ship loose, and endeavoured to -force our way forward among the ice; until, from its increasing -consolidation, we were again obliged to lash to a large piece of it. -This operation is called _grappling_; and it is performed by running the -vessel alongside of the piece of ice to which it is intended to make her -fast: two men then leap on the ice: the one runs, with a sort of -pickaxe, to dig a hole in it, using the precaution to stand with his -back to the ship; and the other man follows the first, with a -serpent-like iron on his back, having a strong rope affixed to one end -of it: this serpent (or ice-anchor, as it is termed) is hooked into the -hole on the ice, and the rope is fastened on board the ship. Other -ice-anchors and ropes are then hooked to different parts of the piece of -ice; and the number of ropes is varied according to the state of the -weather. In a gale of wind, we had generally five anchors a-head; and -with a moderate breeze, not more than two. The whole manœuvre of -grappling is generally accomplished in five minutes; and although the -ship be lashed to windward of a clump of ice, yet the action of the wind -on a vessel’s masts, yards, &c. turns the ice round, and she will -consequently soon be under the lee of it, with water as smooth as a -mill-pond. - - We were employed this evening in filling our casks from a pool of -snow-water on the ice; and our people were highly diverted with running -upon it, leaping, playing at foot-ball, and shooting at seals. At -length, four of the seamen were so imprudent as to venture on a sort of -peninsula which projected from the main body of the ice; when the -isthmus instantly gave way, leaving them adrift on a small piece that -was barely sufficient to sustain their weight. It was long after -night-fall, and with the utmost exertion and difficulty, that we -succeeded in getting them safe on board again, by the help of a boat. - - August _6th_.—In the middle of the night, the prospect from the ship -was one of the most awful and sublime that I ever remember having -witnessed, during a life spent entirely upon the ocean: and I regret -that no language of mine can give an adequate idea of the grandeur of -the scene. As far as the eye could reach, a vast alabaster pavement -overspread the surface of the sea, whose dark blue waters could only be -seen at intervals, where parts of the pavement appeared to have been -convulsively torn up, and heaped upon each other in ruined fragments. -The snow-white surface of this immense plain formed a most striking -contrast to the deep black clouds of a stormy night; through which, -uninterrupted flashes of forky lightning succeeded each other with great -rapidity, as if intending, by their fiery glare, to shew to us the -horrors of our situation, and then to magnify them by leaving us in -utter darkness. Add to this, the reiterated peals of thunder that burst -forth, in a thousand roaring echoes, over the surrounding ice; also the -heavy plashing of the rain, which poured down in torrents; the distant -growling of affrighted bears, the screams of sea-birds, and the loud -whistling of the wind;—the whole forming a midnight prospect which I -would have gone any distance to see; but having once beheld, never wish -to witness again. - - In the morning, we were surprised by the appearance of two -_Esquimaux_, who had contrived to reach the ship, although we were at -least seven leagues from the land, and the ice closely hemming us round -on all sides: the Indians had effected their passage by dragging their -canoes over the different fields of ice which obstructed their progress. -At 4 A.M. we got under sail; as there appeared a possibility of our -pushing through, the ice having loosened a little; however, we looked in -vain for an opening. The ship running fast, with a fair breeze, struck -violently upon a large field, and the shock fairly lifted up her bows. -We continued butting through until 8 A.M. when we grappled to a large -field of ice, as an impenetrable mass now presented itself on all sides -of us: the wind shifted into the N. W. and blew a heavy gale, -accompanied by drifts of snow and sleet. We lay in this position all -night, closely hemmed in, with five ice-anchors a-head. An inspection -being made by the carpenter, he found that the heavy shocks which the -ship had received this day had started the ceiling about her bows, and -also twelve or fourteen of the trunnels. - - August _7th_.—During the whole of this day, we continued closely -wedged in by the ice. It blew a hard gale from the west, attended by a -heavy fall of snow and sleet. The loose ice was incessantly varying its -position: at one time, we were so closely hemmed in as to be hardly able -to discern any water; then, suddenly, the ice would again open to a -considerable distance. This is easily accounted for; as the light pieces -of ice drift much faster before the wind than the heavier masses, which -are deeper in the water: it will naturally occur, therefore, that the -three ships would alter their position, according to the size of the -clump to which they were fastened. The _Eddystone_ was three miles to -the east of us last night; and at sunset this evening, she was as far to -the west; yet that ship was still grappled to the same piece of ice as -before; and, from the coagulated mass which surrounded us, one would -have been led to conclude that the relative distance from each other -could not have been so easily altered: but it varies according to the -depth and solidity of the ice to which the ships are affixed. - - August _8th_.—In the forenoon, the snow ceased to fall, and we had a -finer day. Latitude, by an observation at noon, 62°. 54′. N. The ice -loosened considerably in the course of the day, but not sufficiently for -us to get under sail. At night-fall, we lost sight of the _Eddystone_, -to the west. - - August _9th_.—The day had just began to dawn, when an animal was -observed swimming near the ship: we at first conjectured it to be a -seal, and accordingly sent a quarter-master over the ice, to knock it on -the head, if it attempted to get upon it; but the man was fain to make a -rapid retreat, when he discovered the form of a prodigious bear emerging -from the water. This enormous creature came close to the ship’s head; -and had I been armed with a pistol only, it would have been easy to have -dispatched him; but during the time we were all bustling for a musquet, -the bear marched up the field of ice. Mr. _Wells_, a young midshipman, -and myself, instantly pursued him, by different routes; but the grey of -the twilight was favourable to him; and his hide being but a shade or -two deeper than the ice itself, he escaped unseen. We afterwards traced -his footsteps to the edge of the ice, opposite the spot where he landed, -and he must therefore have replunged into the sea from that place. I -mention this circumstance to shew in what manner these animals contrive -to procure subsistence: they swim, during the night, in the quiet manner -now described; and drawing close to a piece of ice, they immediately -smell if there be any seals upon the top of it; in which case they -ascend gently on the opposite side, and suddenly springing upon the -sleeping seal, they instantly tear it in pieces.—As this proved to be a -fine day, we drew our seamen out upon the ice, and exercised them by -firing at a target. Towards evening the ice began to loosen -considerably. - - August _10th_.—A fine day; but the ice still close. Wind remains at -N. W. During the last twenty-four hours, the _Eddystone_ again appeared -in sight; and towards evening, she again neared us considerably. We -believed this to be owing to her having got into a southerly current. -Our latitude this day was 62°. 50′. N.; and at night-fall the -thermometer stood at 28°. - - August _11th_.—At 4 A.M. ungrappled, and got under sail, with a fair -wind, running a zig-zag course amongst the ice; the ship, at intervals, -striking excessively hard. Towards evening, we again grappled to a piece -of ice; and, upon inspection, we found several more trunnels started, -and the ship much shaken, by her repeated blows. The Admiralty must -certainly have been deceived by the _Hudson’s-Bay_ Company, respecting a -Voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_; or they certainly would never have sent a ship -of war to perform it, without previously strengthening her for the -occasion. It is exceedingly dangerous for any ship to attempt a passage -through the sea of ice in _Hudson’s Straits_, unless her bows be doubled -with oak-plank and heavy blocks of wood, bolted to each side of her -cutwater; as the floating masses of ice may be considered so many _rocks -of crystal_. - - This day, in a vacancy between the ice, we saw the first regular -whale. On his second rising to blow, I discharged a load of small shot -into his back; at which, however, he did not even seem to feel the least -annoyance, though we saw him no more. - - August _12th_.—At day-light, ungrappled, with a light wind at south; -but, to our great mortification, we were again obliged to anchor, at -noon, to a field of ice about half a mile long; and both the other ships -made fast to the same piece, so that we could walk across the ice to -visit each other. Our people were immediately set to work; and in three -hours’ time, we had filled fifty-six casks with snow-water, from a large -pond on the ice. We had _Charles’ Island_ in sight, bearing W. N. W. -about nine leagues distant. This small island is on the southern shore -of the Straits, in the narrowest part; the channel there not being above -twenty miles broad. _Charles’ Island_ lies about twenty-one leagues to -the west of _Lady Lake’s Inlet_; and hence the ships leave the northern -shore, and steer for the south end of _Salisbury Island_, lying off Cape -Diggs, at the western extremity of _Hudson’s Straits_. - - The ice continuing very close all around us, we were compelled to -remain in this situation, without ungrappling, for five days; in which -nothing occurred worthy of notice. - - [Illustration: _Appearance of the Entrance of Prince of Wales’s Sound, - bearing S.W.½W. about nine leagues.—taken August 17, 1814._] - - [Illustration: _The Rosamond grappled among close Ice._] - - August _17th_.—In the morning, we were opposite a deep inlet, called -_Prince of Wales’s Sound_, on the southern shore of the Straits, which -has never been explored. All this coast, as well as the northern shore, -is fringed with islands; the principal of which are called _King -George_, _Prince of Wales_, _Maiden’s Paps_, and _Mannil’s Islands_; and -they doubtless afford shelter to many fine harbours. - - August _18th_.—We did not grapple during the night, but hove to, for -about two hours, whilst it continued dark; and at day-light we again -bore up, and continued running through loose ice. Towards noon it fell -nearly calm: we observed seven large seals, basking on a piece of ice; -but as soon as we approached them in a boat, they rolled into the water, -and disappeared. We were visited by two _Esquimaux_ in the afternoon: -they had nothing remarkable about them, except that their mustachios -were rather more bushy than those we had seen before. In the evening it -fell quite calm, and we grappled. - - August _19th_.—During the night, the other ships had fallen -considerably to the eastward; but the wind coming round to the -south-west, we ungrappled, and waited for their coming up. _Queen Anne’s -Foreland_, a high cape on the north shore, bore E. N. E. nine leagues; -and although at so great distance, we were visited by three canoes of -_Esquimaux_, bringing their usual commodities for traffic. Our latitude -this day was observed to be 63°. 38′. N.; longitude, 72°. 45′. W. We -grappled again in the evening, and lay so until— - - August _21st_.—At 2 A.M. was presented one of those awful -appearances which are so common in these hyperborean regions. The water, -for some distance around the ship, had, for a time, been partially -cleared of the ice; when, on a sudden, a noise was heard like very -distant thunder, and the crackling of falling beams in some immense -conflagration. The loose ice, which had appeared so distant before, now -approached on all sides with an unusual rapidity; the pieces driving one -over another in their course, and seeming to menace the destruction of -our ship. In ten minutes we were completely hemmed in, on all sides; and -a person might travel for miles over a space which had just before been -an expanse of water. The ice must have been forced together by some -extraordinary meeting of the currents, as there was but a slight breeze -at the moment. - - At noon, the wind became fair: we ungrappled, and steered through -loose weighty ice until 8 P.M. when a thick fog came on, and we again -grappled for the night. About 10 P.M. the deep darkness of the sky was -suddenly changed to a bright twilight; and having continued so for about -five minutes, it again relapsed into its former gloom. This singular -appearance was occasioned by a streamer of the _aurora borealis_ -bursting through the thick fog which surrounded us.—Thermometer 29°. - - During our stay in _Hudson’s Bay_, and upon our voyage home from -thence, our nights were constantly illuminated by the most vivid and -brilliant coruscations of the _aurora borealis_. Its appearance was very -different from that which I have seen in more southern latitudes; -resembling continual jets of meteoric fire from the northern part of the -horizon, which, after darting upwards in long streamers towards the -zenith, suddenly collapsed, and receded; falling back, in zig-zag, -serpentine lines, with diminished splendour; and ultimately dying away, -and vanishing from the sight; being succeeded by other jets, as -beautiful as the first. The _Cree Indians_ inhabiting _Hudson’s Bay_, -and indeed the _European_ traders there, maintain, that, in the serene -stillness of their severe winters, a soft rushing noise constantly -accompanies these coruscations, like that which is occasioned by the -quick waving of a _fan_, or of a _winnow_. The same remarkable -circumstance is mentioned by _Hearne_, who bears positive testimony to -the fact. “I can positively affirm,” says he[21], “that in still nights -I have frequently heard the _northern lights_ make a rustling and -crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in a fresh gale of -wind. This is not peculiar to the place of which I am now writing (_the -Athapusco Lake_), as I have heard the same noise very plain at -_Churchill River_: and, in all probability, it is only for want of -attention that it has not been heard in every part of the northern -hemisphere, where these lights have been known to shine with any -considerable degree of lustre.” - - August _22d_.—Early in the morning we again ungrappled. The reader -of this Journal may easily conceive that, by this time, our impatience -was at its height, as we had now been nearly a month incessantly -occupied in endeavouring to push our ship through the never-ending -drifts of ice in _Hudson’s Straits_. I shall not, therefore, attempt to -describe the joy of every person on board, when at 8 A.M. we emerged -into an open sea, and, the wind blowing tolerably fresh, at ten we -passed by _Charles’ Island_. At noon, we had lost sight of both land and -ice; and we now sailed forwards at a great rate, with both our ships in -company. Towards night-fall, we passed by a low level island, called -_Salisbury Island_, which lies at the entrance of _Hudson’s Bay_. - - August _23d_.—In the morning, passed to the southward of -_Nottingham_, a long rocky island, lying north of _Cape Diggs_. I know -not if _Salisbury_ and _Nottingham Islands_ are inhabited by the -_Esquimaux_; but it is natural to suppose that this people visit them -occasionally, during their periodical voyages. At 8 A.M. we were off -_Cape Walsingham_, which is only remarkable for its being the north-west -promontory of _Labrador_, and having a string of small islands running -from it towards the sea. - - In the afternoon, the _Eddystone_ parted company; as that ship was -bound for _Moose Factory_, at the southernmost extremity of the bay; -whilst we intended to proceed with the _Prince of Wales_ to _York -Factory_, on the western side. And now, having brought the ship safely -through these formidable Straits, and conducted her into the immense -gulf of _Hudson’s Bay_, we will leave her for a while to pursue her -voyage, and take an excursion round the _Bay_, in order to give some -short description of its factories, inhabitants, &c. - - Amongst the many adventurous naval enterprises which reflect such -lustre upon the last years of Queen _Elizabeth_, and the beginning of -the reign of _James_ the _First_, none, perhaps, can surpass, in -intrepidity and perseverance, the voyages of _Henry Hudson_; undertaken -for the express purpose of effecting a north-west passage to the -_Pacific Ocean_. All that I have been able to collect respecting this -brave but unfortunate man is, that he sailed in the year 1610, and -discovered the Straits which now bear his name. He boldly pushed his way -through them; and finding that, after a length of six hundred miles, he -emerged into an open sea, his heart beat high with exultation on having, -as he doubtless imagined, succeeded in discovering that famous passage -for which so many had sought in vain[22]. Sailing forward, therefore, -four hundred miles towards the west, his disappointment was great, at -finding himself suddenly stopped, in the midst of his career, by an -unknown coast, extending (as has since been ascertained) from 51° to 63° -N. latitude. However, the spirit of _Hudson_ was not easily checked; -and, astonishing as it may appear, he determined on remaining the whole -winter on this dreary coast, so that he might be able to prosecute his -voyage early in the ensuing spring. After suffering innumerable -hardships, this daring adventurer sailed, early in the next year, -towards the north, in search of the much-wished-for outlet to the -_Pacific_; but his crew, not feeling the same enthusiasm which animated -their leader, and greatly fearing lest his ardent thirst for discovery -might expose them to the horrors of another winter, or, what was still -worse, to the chance of perishing amidst the terrific mountains of ice -with which they saw themselves to be surrounded, they accordingly -proceeded from murmurs to open mutiny; and having turned the heroic -_Hudson_ adrift in a small boat, together with the few who adhered to -his fortune, they basely left their leader to perish, and sailed away -for _England_, where they arrived in safety. As for the unhappy Captain, -I grieve to add, that he was never afterwards heard of: neither have we -the poor consolation of knowing that his murderers met with the -punishment due to their inhuman crime. There can be no doubt that -_Hudson’s Bay_ would have remained much longer unexplored, had it not so -happened that the winter preceding the year in which the discovery was -made must have been remarkably mild; consequently, _Hudson_ could not -have met with many obstacles in passing through the Straits;—no seaman -would have endeavoured to penetrate farther, if he had found them so -completely blocked up with ice as to impede a ship’s progress, even with -the advantage of a favourable wind attending her;—and that this was the -case with us, will appear evident, from a perusal of the preceding part -of this Journal. - - The _Hudson’s-Bay_ Company’s charter is said to confirm to that body -the whole and sole right of trading with the _Indians_, within the -limits of _Hudson’s Straits_; and they have no less than six factories -established at the mouths of as many different rivers, which empty -themselves into the Bay. The northernmost of these factories is called -_Churchill_: it stands on the west side of the Bay, in latitude 58°. -50′. N.; longitude, 93°. 4′. W. The port is tolerably good, and ships of -any size may anchor in it. At the entrance is a danger, called _Cape -Mary’s Rock_; but it is easily to be avoided. On entering _Churchill -River_, ships pass between two points of land. One of them forms a sort -of peninsula; and it has a large strong fort of stone upon it, the -erection of which is said to have cost the _Hudson’s-Bay_ Company -30,000_l._: it was formerly mounted with twenty 32-pound guns. The -opposite Cape (_Mary_) has also a small battery, which formerly had six -guns on it; yet, with the most culpable pusillanimity, did the traveller -_Hearne_ (who acted as chief at that time) yield this strong position to -the _French_ Admiral _La Perouse_, without so much as attempting a -defence; who, in the year 1782, spiked the cannon, and destroyed the -factory. Since that time, the fortifications of _Churchill_ have been -suffered to remain in their present dilapidated state; and, as a -trifling security against any sudden invasion in future, the new factory -was erected at a short distance higher up the river. It is matter of -surprise, that the Company do not repair the large stone fort, which is -made uncommonly strong, both by nature and by art. As it stands upon the -extremity of a peninsula, a body of men passing the isthmus to attack it -by land, would be completely exposed to the enfilading fire of the fort. -It would be difficult also for an enemy to force the gates, because -there is a small half-moon battery built on that side, expressly for -their defence. Besides, there are dwelling-houses in the interior of the -fort, sufficiently large for the reception of the whole factory. - - The shore about _Churchill River_ is high and rocky, producing only -a very few insignificant trees and shrubs. Farther north, towards the -country of the _Esquimaux_, this small vestige of vegetation dwindles -away even to a simple bush or two, and these are only to be found at a -considerable distance from each other. - - Proceeding southward, towards a more genial country, we arrive at -_York Factory_, standing upon low swampy ground, completely covered with -wood: its latitude is 57°. 2′. N.; longitude 92°. 40′. W. This place was -also visited by the _French_ in 1782, who burnt the factory, and -destroyed a small battery at the entrance of _Hayes’ River_. But -_Perouse_ was grievously disappointed in the chief object of his voyage: -and as it is so intimately connected with the subject on which I am -writing, perhaps it will not be thought improper to describe the -disappointment which the _French_ suffered in the expedition; -particularly as the fitting-out of the squadron must have cost the -_French_ nation much money; and their burning a few miserable -mart-houses in _Hudson’s Bay_ could only injure individuals, and most -probably was not felt at all by the public. - - _Perouse_ entered _Hudson’s Bay_ in 1782, having under his command a -line-of-battle ship and two large frigates. With this force he of course -insured the capture of the annual ships, together with their rich cargo -of furs, oil, &c.; and as the escape of the three ships does high honour -to the skill and intrepidity of their commanders, it is well worthy of -notice. The ship which was bound to _Churchill_, was commanded by -Captain _Christopher_; and the _French_ admiral fell in with her at sea, -just previous to her arrival at that place. A frigate was immediately -dispatched in pursuit; but the night drawing on apace, Captain -_Christopher_ resolved on a bold manœuvre, which he accordingly carried -into execution with great success. Perceiving that the _Frenchman_ was -ignorant of the coast, and, by his following the _English_ ship, that he -was determined to govern his own vessel by her motions,—whereby he hoped -to avoid all danger, and in the end secure his prize,—Captain -_Christopher_ sent his men aloft, and furled his sails, pretending to -come to an anchor. The enemy immediately conjectured that it would be -dangerous for him to proceed farther; therefore he directly brought his -frigate to anchor in reality. Captain _Christopher_ rejoiced that his -deception had so far succeeded to his wishes; and he made sail to sea -with the greatest dispatch. Night coming on, and the _Frenchman_ being a -long time in getting up his anchor, the _Englishman_ was soon out of -sight, and escaped in safety to the northward. Fired with this -disappointment, _Perouse_ burnt the factory; and proceeded to _York_, to -secure the other ship, then lying at that place, under the command of -Captain _Fowler_. As there was not depth of water sufficient for his -ships to enter _York_, he anchored in _Nelson River_, and made every -disposition for an attack upon the ship and factory by the dawn of the -next day; but, to his utter mortification, he found in the morning that -the bird had taken wing;—for Captain _Fowler_ had perceived three large -ships at anchor in _Nelson River_ the evening before, and, wisely -conjecturing that they could have no good intentions towards him, put to -sea during the night. _Perouse_ dispatched a fast-sailing frigate in -search of him, which soon had sight of the runaway; but Captain _Fowler_ -finding the _Frenchman_ to have much superiority in point of speed, -tacked about, and stood in for the land to the south of _York_, hoping -thereby to entice the _Frenchman_ into shallow water: the enemy, -however, discovering his design, and fearing lest, in further pursuit, -he might incur the risk of shipwreck, put off to sea; and Captain -_Fowler_ pursued his voyage to _England_ in safety. The season was too -far advanced to attempt any other exploit; and having therefore burnt -the factory at _York_, _Perouse_ returned to _Europe_; highly chagrined, -no doubt, at being thus foiled by a pair of _English_ sailors, and at -having failed of success in the principal aim of his expedition. As -there are many shoals and dangerous rocks in _James’ Bay_[23], he did -not think fit to send a ship to destroy the southern settlements: and to -the credit of this unfortunate navigator, I must state, that he -publickly averred, if he had been aware of the factories being the -property of individuals, he would assuredly have quitted them without -molestation. It is remarkable that the Bay ship (as she is called) got -safe to _Moose Factory_, and returned to _England_, without being at all -aware how very narrowly she must have escaped falling into the hands of -the enemy. - - The next factory to the south of _York_ is called _Severn_; but the -shore at this place runs off much too shoal to allow a ship to approach -the coast; therefore a schooner of about eighty tons is employed to take -the furs to _York_, and to bring back the necessary supplies. This is -also the case with _Albany_, the next factory towards the south; except -that the latter place sends its furs, &c. to _Moose_, instead of _York -Factory_. - - At the very bottom or southernmost part of _Hudson’s Bay_, which is -styled _James’s Bay_, we arrive at _Moose Factory_; standing, like all -the rest, on a river, bearing the same name. This place has a good -anchorage, and the climate is milder than in any of the other factories. -It is annually visited by a ship from _England_; as at _Moose_ the furs -are collected together from the lesser mart-houses of _Albany_, _East -Main_, and _Richmond_, for the purpose of being shipped off to _Europe_. -We must now proceed round the bottom of the Bay;—and the next settlement -is at _East Main River_, nearly opposite to the western shore of -_Labrador_. The factory was established at this place for the purpose of -trading with the natives of that vast peninsula; but their internal -mart-houses verge generally towards the south, and the marten skins from -this factory are said to be the finest in quality of any which are -received from _Hudson’s Bay_. The inhabitants around this settlement are -a roving race of people, styled, by the _Europeans_, _Mountain Indians_, -to distinguish them from the _Esquimaux_, who inhabit the sea-coast to -the northward. - - At some distance to the north of _East Main_ is a bight, called -_Richmond Bay_: here is a house belonging to the Company, but not a -permanent establishment; as the people who arrive from _East-Main -Factory_ in the spring, return again to that place in the fall of the -year, to remain for the winter. The annual voyages to _Richmond_ are -undertaken for the purpose of procuring oil, as there is a good -white-whale fishery in this Bay. The white whale[24] is not much larger -than a first-rate porpoise; neither does it yield any whalebone fit for -use: but the oil is nearly equal in value to that of the seal; and it -was sold in _England_, in the year 1813, at fifty-six pounds a ton. The -fish itself is perfectly white. - - There is also a small whale fishery at _Churchill Factory_, but it -is not very productive: perhaps it would be more advantageous for the -Company if they were to convert the remains of it into a new fishing -establishment in some more efficient situation. - - I have now reached that part of my Journal which I before alluded -to, as being the most proper place to introduce the account of the -disastrous termination of two attempts made by the _Hudson’s-Bay -Company_ to settle a permanent white-whale fishery at _Richmond Bay_. - - When first the _Europeans_ went to settle at _Richmond_, the -_Esquimaux_, who reside about this part, kept them in a continual state -of alarm all the winter, by lurking about the woods, in their sledges -drawn by dogs. At length an English boy was missing from the settlement; -and, after some difficulty, two _Esquimaux_ were seized, and confined in -separate apartments. In order to recover the absent youth, the settlers -made use of a stratagem. A musket was discharged in a remote apartment; -and the settlers entering the room in which one of the _Esquimaux_ was -confined, they informed him, by signs, that his comrade had been put to -death, for decoying away the boy; and they gave him to understand, at -the same time, that he must prepare to undergo the same fate, unless he -would faithfully pledge himself to restore the absentee. The _Esquimaux_ -naturally promised every thing; and on being set at liberty, he made the -best of his way into the woods, and, of course, was never afterwards -heard of. They kept the other native for some time a prisoner: at -length, he tried to effect his escape, by boldly seizing the sentinel’s -firelock at night, but the piece accidentally going off, he was so -terrified at the report, that they easily replaced him in confinement: -yet either the loss of liberty, a supposition that his countryman had -been murdered, or that he was himself reserved for some cruel death, -deprived the poor wretch of reason. As he became exceedingly -troublesome, the settlers held a conference as to the most eligible mode -of getting rid of him; and it being deemed _good policy_ to deter the -natives from similar offences, by making an example, they accordingly -shot the poor maniac in cold blood, without having given themselves the -trouble to ascertain whether he were really guilty or innocent. - - Possessing only the plain leading facts of this affair[25], it is -not easy to determine how far existing circumstances might have -justified such an act of severity towards an ignorant being, who was -also, perhaps, totally innocent. The reasons ought certainly to have -been weighty which induced them to put the poor man to death; and I hope -they will be able hereafter to reconcile the deed to God and to their -own consciences. - - After this time, _Richmond_ was abandoned as a permanent -establishment; and they fell into the present method of visiting this -place only during the fishing season, and returning to pass the winter -at _East-Main Factory_. Captain _Turner_, however, represented to the -_Hudson’s-Bay Company_, that, in his opinion, want of perseverance was -alone necessary to render _Richmond_ a safe and permanent settlement; -and that, by having people on the spot, ready to begin fishing early in -the spring of the year, much greater profit would necessarily accrue to -the Company. Accordingly, he received directions to take thither seven -people, who were to remain at _Richmond_ during the whole winter. In the -spring of the succeeding year, the northern or _Hunting Indians_, who -had visited _Richmond_ in pursuit of game, came, as usual, to barter -their furs at _East-Main Factory_; at the same time bringing the -dreadful intelligence that the seven unfortunate _Europeans_ had been -murdered by the _Esquimaux_. The bodies of some of the settlers were -afterwards found; although it be by no means certain that they were -killed by the _Esquimaux_: such, however, is a fair presumption, as this -people had before displayed a hostile disposition in the case of the -boy; and the place was rifled of all the metal, of which the _Esquimaux_ -are known to be remarkably fond: add to this, that the northern -_Indians_ had long been accustomed to trade yearly at _East Main_, and -no instance had ever been known of their behaving with treachery towards -the _Europeans_. - - On the other hand, we must allow, that the _Hunting Indians_ and the -_Esquimaux_ live in a state of constant enmity, and, consequently, that -their evil reports of each other should be cautiously received. It is -also certain, that the northern _Indians_ are as partial to spirituous -liquors as the _Esquimaux_ are to metals. Three bloody shirts, belonging -to the murdered settlers, were found in the tent of a northern _Indian_, -which he alleged to have taken from the bodies of the slain, after the -_Esquimaux_ had quitted them. Upon the whole, it remains uncertain -whether the settlers at _Richmond_ perished by the hands of the -_Esquimaux_, or by those of the northern _Indians_: for my own part, I -should be inclined to the former opinion. This catastrophe has -effectually put a stop to any further attempts towards establishing a -permanent settlement at _Richmond Bay_. - - The following anecdote of Mr. _Darby_, the father of the celebrated -Mrs. _Mary Robinson_, will shew that the _Esquimaux_ are of a -treacherous disposition, and extremely averse from any settlements being -made on their coasts. - - Mr. _Darby_ had long fostered in his mind a scheme of establishing a -whale fishery upon the coast of _Labrador_, and of civilizing the -_Esquimaux Indians_, in order to employ them in the extensive -undertaking. Hazardous and wild as this plan appeared to his wife and to -his friends, Mr. _Darby_ persevered in his resolution to prosecute it; -and actually obtained the approbation and encouragement of some of the -leading men at that time in power, who promoted his designs. To -facilitate the execution of his plan, he deemed it necessary to reside -at least two years in _America_. His wife felt an invincible antipathy -for the sea, and, of course, heard his determination with horror. The -pleadings of affection, of reason, and of prudence, were alike -ineffectual, and he sailed for _America_. - - The issue of this rash enterprise proved quite as unfortunate as it -was predicted. Mr. _Darby_ had embarked in it his whole fortune; and it -failed. The noble patrons of his plan deceived him in their assurances -of marine protection, and the island of promise became a scene of -desolation. “_The Indians rose in a body, burnt his settlement, murdered -many of his people, and turned the product of their toil adrift on the -merciless ocean._”—This great misfortune was followed by other -commercial losses; and the family of this too enterprising man were, in -consequence, reduced from a state of affluence and luxury to a very -different condition[26]. - - Having now described the whole of the Factories established upon the -sea-coast of _Hudson’s Bay_, it will be necessary to say something of -the interior: this is so far from being unknown, that a man may with -safety travel from _Hudson’s Bay_ to _Quebec_, in _Canada_, by land. The -_Hudson’s-Bay Company_ have many small factories, or rather mart-houses, -dispersed in all directions, for upwards of one thousand miles in the -interior; to which the _Indians_ bring furs, feathers, quills, &c. in -exchange for cloths, blankets, ammunition, fowling-pieces, trinkets, &c. -The furs thus collected are sent down the rivers, in large boats, to the -factories on the sea-coast, whence they are shipped off for Europe, as -before described. There is great jealousy existing between the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ traders and the _Canadian Company_, styled the -_North-West Adventurers_, respecting the traffic in _peltry_ with the -_Indians_. As the mart-houses of the two parties meet inland, each uses -all the means in its power to induce the natives to barter furs with -themselves, in preference to their opponents: nay, to such a pitch have -they carried their mutual animosity, that it is not long since a man in -the Company’s employ actually killed a _Canadian_ trader, in a dispute -relative to the purchase of some furs from the _Indians_; for which -offence the culprit was tried at _Montreal_: and as it appeared that the -_Canadian_ had given him sufficient provocation, the jury returned a -verdict of manslaughter. - - The _Indians_ have not failed to observe this competition, so -impolitic on both parts, and they profit by it accordingly. - - Each factory and mart-house has its _Chief_, appointed by the -Company; and there is also a northern and southern Superintendant, who -is directed to visit all the places of note within his district, at -least once in the year. The northern department comprises _Churchill_, -_York_, and _Severn_ factories, on the coast; and the southern embraces -_Albany_, _Moose_, _East Main_, and _Richmond_. To determine the -interior limits of each, an imaginary line of demarcation is drawn east -and west from _Hudson’s Bay_ to the _Stony Mountains_. - - With respect to the inhabitants of this vast desert I shall say but -little, as Sir _Alexander M^cKenzie_ has given a very full description -of the various tribes by which it is peopled[27]. The most populous of -all, perhaps, are the _Cree Indians_: they appear to me to be the same -race described by the before-mentioned author, under the name of -_Knisteneaux_. They occupy the country from _Churchill_ nearly as far -south as _Moose_, and are found scattered almost as far to the west as -the _Stony Mountains_; but their numbers have been much diminished of -late, owing to the small-pox. When this dreadful malady first reached -this country, as the _Indians_ were not aware of any remedy by which -they could counteract its violence, they were accustomed to leave the -person afflicted in the midst of a wood, with a sufficient stock of food -for two or three days’ subsistence; and when this scanty provision was -expended, the unhappy victim must have necessarily perished with hunger. -The banks of the rivers, for a time, exhibited a most loathsome -spectacle, of bodies which had thus fallen a sacrifice to this disorder. - - Besides the _Cree_ or _Knisteneaux Indians_, there are innumerable -tribes spread over the interior of this vast country; the principal of -which are, the _Copper_, _Dog-ribbed_, and _Hare-foot Indians_, towards -the north; the _Swees_, _Bongees_, _Slave_, and _Stone Indians_, towards -the west; likewise a variety of tribes inhabiting the southern country -around _Moose_, such as the _Mistassins_, and others. The different -tribes have frequently wars with each other; and they appear to agree -unanimously in one respect only, that is to say, in universal and -eternal hatred of the _Esquimaux_. However, it fortunately happens, from -the contrariety of their modes of life, that their parties seldom come -into contact with each other, and consequently the battles between them -are very rare. - - It remains now to speak of one of the most enterprising -speculations, perhaps, ever undertaken by a single person; namely, the -attempt lately made by Lord _Selkirk_ to establish a colony upon the -banks of the _Red River_, in a situation nearly equidistant from _York -Factory_ and _Lake Superior_, and in the latitude of 50° N.[28] - - His Lordship holds this land by a grant of 12,000 square acres from -the _Hudson’s-Bay Company_. The first settlers left _Sligo_ in the year -1811; and arriving in _Hudson’s Bay_, they past the winter of that year -at _York Factory_. In the spring of 1812, they proceeded to their -destination, under the command of a Captain _M^cDonald_, formerly -belonging to a veteran corps in _Canada_: but this gentleman seems -deficient in the essential art of conciliating those who are placed -under his government: however, the situation of the colony is -undoubtedly good, and the soil so fertile as to produce every thing -almost spontaneously. The winters, indeed, are more severe than in -places upon the same parallel of latitude in Europe, but much milder -than at _Moose_, or any of the factories in _Hudson’s Bay_; and yet even -at _Moose_ they produce barley, if it be a fine year; and _Orkney_ oats -every year, by sowing them a short distance from the sea-beach. Still, -it is extremely doubtful if ever his Lordship’s descendants will derive -much benefit from their father’s mighty speculations; unless, indeed, he -could prevail upon his tenants to grant him a sort of tithe from their -produce, in lieu of rent. With this corn he could supply the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ settlements, which would save the Company a considerable -expense, and they might repay his Lordship in the current coin of the -realm. - - The _Prince of Wales_ took out many women and settlers for the -colony, as also a Mr. _White_, to act as surgeon. Lord _Selkirk_ has -agreed with this gentleman, to give him a yearly stipend of 100_l._ -together with a grant of five hundred acres of land, and a labourer four -days in the week for its cultivation. - - It is difficult to imagine what were his Lordship’s intentions with -respect to the colony at _Red River_. Allowing the luxuriance of the -soil to answer his fullest expectations, by what possible means could -the produce be conveyed to an adequate market, so as to repay the -expenses of its carriage? The communication between the colony and _York -Factory_ is kept up by boats, through the great _Lake Winnepeg_; a -little to the southward of which runs the _Asnaboyne_ or _Red River_: -yet the channels of the different rivers are so full of falls, rapids, -portages and carrying-places, that the labour of conveying the boats is -immense, and consequently quite unfit for the purposes of commerce, -except it be in furs, and in such light merchandize. - - It was for some time believed that a large opening to the northward -of _Richmond_, and near to _Cape Smith_, was an inlet to some large -inland sea; but, in the year 1786, Mr. _Davison_, an officer in one of -the Company’s ships, was sent in a schooner to explore the same. The -following extract contains the description of his progress, as expressed -by himself. “On entering the bight, and perceiving no land a-head, we -sat down to a bottle of wine, and drank success to the new discovery: -however, we were soon chagrined by the appearance of some low islands -stretching across the opening; and shortly afterwards, coming to an -anchor under one of them, we climbed to the top of it, and, to our great -mortification, we perceived that the supposed sea was nothing more than -a deep gulf, terminated at the bottom by thick clusters of islands, -among which the sea ran winding in romantic mazes. Here we found the -_Esquimaux_, who bartered away their dresses, &c. with great avidity, -for any sort of metal.”—Notwithstanding this clear statement, there are -experienced men who still suppose that an inland sea does exist; and for -these reasons:—1st. There is a continual current setting to the east -from _Cape Henrietta Maria_, towards the supposed opening; 2dly, The bay -ship, in her voyage to _Moose_, has frequently observed a large glut of -loose ice off _Cape Henrietta Maria_, which, before her return, has -entirely disappeared; and whither could it have drifted with a strong -easterly current, unless some opening had admitted its escape from the -bay?—These are the reasons for and against the existence of the supposed -sea; but it is to be regretted, that the Company do not make a decisive -attempt to ascertain the fact. - - It will now be necessary to return to the proceedings of the ship. - - August _24th_.—Course run S. W. by W. ¼W. 34 miles. In the morning, -past to the northward of _Mansfield_, a very long, low, level island, -lying about seventeen leagues to the westward of _Cape Diggs_. Its -extent from north to south is said to be full sixty miles. As it abounds -with marshes and ponds of fresh water, it may be considered as the grand -nursery of those innumerable flocks of wild geese and ducks which -afterwards line the shores of _Hudson’s Bay_: however, it is but seldom -visited; and the ships generally avoid going too near to it, in -consequence of some shoals that lay around the shore. Towards evening, -we steered away W. S. W. by compass. - - August _25th_.—Course run S. S. W. ¾ W. 101 miles. As there is -generally a glut of ice floating about the centre of _Hudson’s Bay_, a -ship, on leaving _Mansfield Island_, and having a northerly wind, ought -to steer for _Cape Churchill_, until they reach within sixty leagues of -the land, when they may alter the course, and steer for _York_ direct. -It is necessary to make this angle, to avoid the body of ice in -question. Another thing worthy of remark is, that if a ship steer in for -_Cape Churchill_ until she have forty fathoms water, she may be certain -of being in latitude of the Cape: and when she reaches within five or -six leagues of the land, she will have eighteen fathoms water. But a -navigator must be cautious to make allowance for the southerly current, -which sets continually along the western coast of _Hudson’s Bay_. - - August _26th_.—Course run S. W. ¼ S. 56 miles. The wind this day to -the S. S. W. Our latitude at noon was 60°. 11′. N. ship still standing -to the westward. It has been already noticed, that the officers of the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have a motive in concealing from the public the -knowledge which they actually possess relative to the navigation of the -Northern Seas; and I pledged myself to explain that motive at a proper -opportunity. I cannot undertake this unpleasant task at a more apposite -time than the present, when it may serve to enliven the dulness of a few -nautical remarks, which I think it necessary to insert into this part of -my Journal. - - In the first place, it is proper to state, that this illiberal -concealment has its origin in the Company themselves, who (as I am told -by their own officers) have issued the strictest and most peremptory -commands to the people in their employment, “that they take especial -care to conceal all papers, and every other document, which may tend to -throw light upon the Company’s fur-trade.”—It is probable that the -Company had no other motive in issuing these directions, than to keep -themselves and their gains shrowded in a profound silence; as it appears -that, above all other things, they wish their trading concerns not to -become a topic of general conversation in the mother-country. Actuated -by such principles, the officers of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships conceive it -to be their duty to conceal likewise all those remarks which their -experience has taught them to make upon the navigation of the _Northern -Seas_: consequently, nothing can be more incorrect than the Chart -supplied by the _Admiralty_ for the guidance of a man-of-war in -_Hudson’s Straits_: it absolutely bears no resemblance to the channel of -which it is intended to be an exact delineation. During the time we -continued in _Hudson’s Straits_, the _Rosamond_ was entirely piloted by -a chart belonging to the chief mate of the _Prince of Wales_, and one of -his own making; yet he was so jealous of his performance, that he was -highly offended at our Master’s having endeavoured to take a copy of it; -and from thenceforward kept his charts carefully locked up. When I -questioned him, with some freedom, on this mysterious conduct, the -selfish motive stood at once confessed: he feared lest, from others -attaining the same knowledge as himself, they might be induced to enter -into the service of the Company, and thereby possibly supplant him in -his situation. And such I found to be the motives which induced the -majority of these experienced seamen to keep their truly valuable -information concealed within their own bosoms. After the foregoing -statement, it will be unnecessary to explain my reasons for inserting -the very few nautical observations which I was enabled to collect. - - August _27th_.—Course run, W. S. W. ¼ W. 87 miles. - - We continued running all this day across the bay, with a fine -leading wind. Our latitude at noon was 59°. 40′. N. - - August _28th_.—Course run W. S. W. 74 miles. - - At noon this day we sounded, and found that we were in eighty -fathoms water. About sun-set we observed a large body of ice to -windward; our latitude at this time 58°. 56′. N.; and longitude, by -chronometer, 89°. 50′. W. It is about this spot that the _Hudson’s-Bay_ -ships generally calculate on seeing ice, allowing they meet with it at -all. - - August _29th_.—Course run S. by W. ¼ W. 68 miles. - - At 1 A.M. we sounded in sixty-seven fathoms water. At four in the -morning, the wind suddenly increased to a violent gale, which died away -again at sunset. Our latitude at noon was 58°. 6′. N.; longitude, 90° W. -Towards night-fall we sounded in forty-two fathoms, with a muddy bottom; -and at the same time we caught an owl and a hawk, which we considered as -sure signs of the vicinity of land. - - August _30th_.—As we were now running in to make the land, I shall -insert a Table of the Soundings, taken from the depth of water, which we -ascertained last night at sun-set. - - Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 30th of_ August, _while - standing in for the Land to the Southward of_ York Factory. - - Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom. - Course, by since last Water. - Compass. Soundings. - - 4 A.M. S. S. W. 20 Miles 25 Fathoms Mud - 5^h 0^m Ditto 4 Ditto 21 Ditto Ditto - 5.30 Ditto 5 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto - 6.0 Ditto 5 Ditto 14 Ditto Ditto - 6.30 Ditto 5 Ditto 19 Ditto Ditto & sand - 7.0 Ditto 6 Ditto 12 Ditto Sand & pebbles - _Note._—At seven o’clock in the morning we saw the trees a-head, the - land itself being too low to be seen. The land probably about seven - leagues distant. - 7.30 S. by W. 5 Ditto 9½ Ditto Ditto - 7.50 Ditto 2 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto - - As we continued beating to windward, in various soundings, all the -forenoon, I shall not mark them down, but proceed to 1 P.M. when _Cape -Tottenham_ bore S. by E. five leagues distant. - - Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 30th of_ August, _while - standing in for the Land to the Southward of_ York Factory;—continued - from the preceding page. - - Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom. - Course, by since last Water. - Compass. Soundings. - - 1 P.M. We had —— 13 Fathoms Rocky and - gravelly, which - denotes the - Cape bearing S. - by E. - 2^h. 0^m. W. N. W. 4½ Miles 14 Ditto Rocky. - 3.— Ditto 6 Ditto 23 Ditto Ditto - 5.— S. S. E. 5 Ditto 26 Ditto Brown sand. - 6.— Ditto 5 Ditto 17 Ditto Mud, shells, - and stones. - 7.30 Southward 7½ Ditto 8 Ditto Mud. - & Westward - 9.— Ditto 7 Ditto 11 Ditto Ditto - 9.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 11 Ditto Sand. - 10.— Ditto 2 Ditto 11½ Ditto Ditto - 10.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Fine sand. - 11.— Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Very fine sand. - 11.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 14 Ditto Gravelly sand, - and black - specks. - 12.— Ditto 2 Ditto 14½ Ditto Very fine sand. - - Table _of_ Soundings _ascertained on the 31st of_ August, while - standing in for the Land to the Southward of York Factory. - - Hours. Ship’s Distance run Depth of Bottom. - Course, by since last Water. - Compass. Soundings. - - 12^h. Southward 2 Miles 14 Fathoms Grey sand with - 30^m. A.M. & Westward black specks. - 1.— Ditto 3 Ditto 15 Ditto Ditto - 1.30 S. W. ½ W. 3 Ditto 15½ Ditto Oozy - 2.— S. W. 3 Ditto 15½ Ditto Mud - 2.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 16½ Ditto Ditto - 3.— Ditto 2 Ditto 14½ Ditto Oozy - 3.30 Ditto 2 Ditto 12 Ditto Brown sand, - black specks, & - broken shells. - 4.— Ditto 2 Ditto 7½ Ditto Sand - 4.30 Standing in for _York 7½ Ditto Ditto - Flats_ - 5.— Ditto 3 Ditto 7¾ Ditto Hard ground. - 6.— Ditto 6 Ditto 7 Ditto Ditto - 7.— Ditto 6 Ditto 8½ Ditto Ditto - 8.— Ditto 7 Ditto 8½ Ditto Soft ground. - - At eight in the morning, it will be observed, we were in 8½ fathoms -water, on _York Flats_; and we therefore came to an anchor, with the -beacon, at the mouth of _York River_, bearing S. W. by compass; the land -being distant about ten miles, although it could barely be discerned in -a blue line above the horizon. Thus, it may be observed, we had been -sixty-three days on our voyage; and that it may be compared with other -voyages to _Hudson’s Bay_, I have annexed to this Journal a Schedule[29] -of those performed by the Company’s ships since the year 1788; although -I have not been able to obtain the dates of their departures from the -_Orkneys_. - - By the Sounding Table which I have inserted, it is evident that the -depth of water abreast of _York River_, and off _Cape Tottenham_, to the -southward, is uncommonly regular; and it may therefore be fairly -concluded, that, although the western coast of the Bay be very low land, -yet there is no great danger in making it. - - It is not expected that ships during their return to _Europe_ will -ever meet with loose ice[30]: therefore, as soon as our ship anchored on -_York Flats_, we _undid_ all the preparations which had been made for -manœuvring whilst amongst the ice; such as, re-stowing our anchors, and -putting below ice-ropes, ice-anchors, ice-axes, &c.; and we rejoiced in -being rid of them. - - The factory was about twenty miles distant from the anchorage of the -ship, but not visible. At 10 A.M. I went, therefore, from the ship, to -report our arrival to the Governor. We were met at some distance from -the ship by a large boat from the factory. It appeared that they had -noticed the arrival of the ship; and mistaking her for the _Prince of -Wales_, the boat was immediately despatched for letters, parcels, news, -&c. &c. Finding their mistake[31], the boat returned with us to the -factory, which we reached about nine at night. On landing, we were -hailed by a sentinel; and a guard of honour was drawn out to receive us, -with a pair of _Highland_ bagpipes in front. The guard was composed of -the traders, boatmen, and others, belonging to the factory: and through -the gloom of the night I discerned the Governor and his officers, -standing in a group to receive us. After the necessary business of -introduction was over, we walked up to a large wooden building, -surrounded by a double row of wooden palisades; and here we were regaled -with venison steaks and buffalo tongue. - - Sept. _1st_.—At 2 A.M. the tide answering for our return, we quitted -the factory, and reached the vessel again about 8 A.M. - - Whilst we were at _York Fort_, we received information that the -factory at _Churchill_ had been burnt to the ground, in the month of -_November_, 1813. The miseries which the people of that place suffered -during the remainder of the winter were very great. As there were -seventy-three chests of gunpowder in the warehouse at the time the -conflagration took place, their whole attention was occupied in removing -away the powder to prevent an explosion; and by the most strenuous -exertions they succeeded in this undertaking; but the time lost -prevented their being able to save a mouthful of provisions, or a single -utensil, from the flames. An old out-house that had escaped destruction, -and a few tents which they erected of rein-deer skins, served them as -habitations during the remainder of the winter; and, as if Providence -had taken especial care to provide for their necessities, partridges -abounded to a greater degree than had been known for many years before. -Of course, these birds proved a seasonable supply to the sufferers; -particularly as the partridges are so very tame, that they suffer -themselves to be driven into nets, by which means large quantities are -taken at one time. - - A family in _England_ would be justly esteemed objects of great -pity, if they were burnt out of their home in the midst of winter, -although many friendly habitations might be humanely opened for their -reception. What then, comparatively speaking, must have been the -situation of the _Churchill_ people—driven out by the flames in the -middle of a _November_ night, on the shores of a frozen ocean, with the -thermometer 78° below the freezing point, without any shelter save that -of a decayed out-house, no bedding, no cooking utensils, no immediate -nourishment, and no final prospect of relief, except from a reliance on -the adventitious aid of their fowling-pieces! Such a night must surely -be allowed to have had its share of horrors. But heroic strength of mind -is the characteristic of the _European_ traders to _Hudson’s Bay_; and -this alone enabled the people of _Churchill_ to escape all the evils -attendant on such a calamity. - - Towards the evening of this day, the _Prince of Wales_ came to an -anchor near us. - - Sept. _2d_.—In the morning we weighed anchor, and ran into the mouth -of the river, otherwise called _Five-fathom Hole_. It is a very -contracted anchorage, and at high water there is not more than three -fathoms’ water on the bar. In running in from _York Flats_, the large -beacon must be kept bearing S. W. by W. by compass. To moor the ship, -one anchor must be laid up the stream, and another down it; and the -width of swinging room at low water does not much exceed four times a -ship’s length; having a dry muddy flat on the N. W. and a shoal to the -S. E. The water is perfectly fresh, and fit for use, at the last quarter -ebb, and first quarter of the flood-tide. - - As we lay at this anchorage until the 28th instant, I shall not -notice each day separately, but proceed to make such remarks as occurred -during our stay; contenting myself with briefly stating, that the -_Prince of Wales_ was employed during the time in stowing away her -cargo, &c. - - The whole of the north-west part of the continent of _America_ is so -completely intersected with rivers and lakes, that _Mackenzie_ went the -greater part of his journeys by water. _York Factory_ is situated on the -bank of a river, which has sometimes been called _York River_; although -it appears that the majority agree in giving it the name of _Hayes’ -River_: but it undergoes many appellations in its course from the -_Echemamis_ to the sea. I shall therefore endeavour to describe the -river, by tracing a journey from _York Factory_ to _Lake Winnepeg_, a -distance of about five hundred miles: but the fur-traders of -_Hudson’s-Bay_ are so well accustomed to the route, that two men in a -slight bark canoe will undertake it without the slightest hesitation. - - On leaving _York Factory_, the boats proceed against the stream, -without meeting any obstruction, up _Hayes’ River_, _Steel River_, and -forty miles of _Hill River_; when they arrive at the first -carrying-place, called _Rock Portage_. The obstructions from -henceforward begin to augment; and at every portage, the boat, with her -whole cargo, must be carried over land; which is rendered sometimes -extremely difficult, by the ground being either rough or swampy. - - After passing _Rock Portage_, the stream is contracted; and there -are a number of portages intervening, before the boats can arrive at a -broad part of the stream, called _Swampy Lake_, which contains a number -of small islands; and it may be considered as a short half-way to _Lake -Winnepeg_. Leaving _Swampy Lake_, the stream is again contracted into a -narrow slip, called _Jack River_, in which are four portages. On -crossing these, they enter a broader part, intersected by innumerable -small islands. This space is styled the _Knee Lake_, and is sixty miles -in length. One of the small islands in the centre of _Knee Lake_ -contains so great a quantity of iron ore, as to cause the compass to -spin round with uncommon velocity. At the upper end of the lake the -stream gradually lessens into another slip, called _Trout River_, and -here are four more portages: then gently extending its boundaries, the -river opens on a wide expanse, called _Holey Lake_, from some deep holes -in the bottom of it, and the great inequality of the soundings -throughout. At the eastern extremity of this lake stands _Oxford House_, -the first trading port to be met with after leaving the factory. Owing -to the richness of the soil, and the geniality of the climate, this -place produces a number of excellent vegetables[32]. - - Proceeding onwards, the boats leave the main body of _Holey Lake_ to -the left hand: the stream then suddenly narrows; and after passing four -more carrying-places, the last of which is called _Hill’s Portage_, -there is a clear space, until a sudden serpentine bend in the river -forms the _White-fall_. The current now begins to be very weak; and a -little farther on, they enter a narrow part with still water. This spot -is the highest part of the land between _Lake Winnepeg_ and _Hudson’s -Bay_; and _Hayes’ River_ may, perhaps, be said to take its rise about -seven miles to the southward of it, in a small lake called -_Winnepegosis_. The boats now meet with a singular rock, which, from -some curious _Indian_ paintings once found there, has since been called -the _Painted Stone_. Over this rock the boat must be dragged, and again -launched on the opposite side, into a long, narrow, boggy slip of water, -called the _Echemamis_. After emerging from this strait, the current of -the river begins to operate in favour of the boats; and this proves that -the _Echemamis_ is a small river, taking its rise in the morasses about -the _Painted Stone_, and having no connection with the river which leads -from the _Painted Stone_ towards the sea. The _Echemamis_ is, however, -lost at a short distance from its source; as after the boats pass _Hairy -Lake_, the stream falls into the _Sea River_; and there is a portage at -their junction, called the _Sea River_ carrying-place. The _Sea River_ -is a branch of the great _Nelson River_, separated from the main stream -at the _Play-green Lake_, and rejoining it by a creek that opens near -_Hairy Lake_. - - The boats go against the current up the _Sea River_; and passing the -little _Cross Lake_ and _Pike River_, they reach _Winnepeg_, through the -_Play-green Lake_. This last is a wide body of water, covered with -islands; and may properly be said to be merely a part of _Nelson River_, -which holds its course from the _Stony Mountains_ to _Hudson’s Bay_. The -rough course from _York Factory_ to Lake _Winnepeg_ is about south-west; -but the _Nelson River_ makes a great angle between _Winnepeg_ and the -sea; as it first runs off N. N. E.; and then takes its course, due E. N. -E. to _Hudson’s Bay_, where it empties itself by the side of _Hayes’ -River_[33]. - - The labour of getting the boats up these rivers is amazingly great: -their crews encamp on the banks every night; and they generally land -also to cook their meals, except when they are compelled to subsist on -_pemmican_, a sort of dried, husky compound, composed of pounded venison -and deer’s fat mixed together. This species of food is extremely -nutritious: it requires no cooking, and is sometimes rendered more -palatable by the addition of berries. - - There are many kinds of wood growing on the banks of the rivers, and -indeed the whole of the interior near the sea is covered with it: but in -the country about Lake _Winnepeg_ there are very few trees, and the -inhabitants are therefore compelled to use the dung of the buffalo for -fuel. Both buffaloes and horses abound in the open country. The woods on -the coast are principally composed of dwarf poplars, larches, and all -the varieties of the pine species. - - Having thus described the communication by water between Lake -_Winnepeg_ and _York Factory_, I shall conclude with a statement of the -respective distances. - - Miles - - Distance from _York Factory_ to the top of _Hayes’ River_ 50 - Thence to the upper end of _Steel River_ 35 - To _Rock Portage_ 35 - To _Swampy Lake_ 35 - Length of Ditto 9 - Length of _Jack River_ 9 - _Knee Lake_ 60 - _Trout River_ 12 - _Holey Lake_ 30 - To _White-fall_ 45 - _Painted Stone_ 15 - Along the _Echemamis_ to _Hairy Lake_ 35 - Length of Ditto 4 - _Play-green Lake_ 35 - - It must be allowed, that the above is a mere rough statement of an -old trader, who had been accustomed to traversing the route for nearly -twenty years. - - _Nelson River_ is a much more noble stream than _Hayes’ River_, with -respect to its navigation, extending about twenty miles from the sea; -but from thenceforward it becomes so full of obstructions, from -portages, falls, and rapids, that the Company have been compelled to -establish their factory upon, and give a decided preference to, _Hayes’ -River_, although they have an establishment or two for trade on the -former. The _Nelson River_ takes its rise, according to _M^cKenzie_, in -the _Stony Mountains_; and empties itself into _Hudson’s Bay_, at the -same place as _Hayes’ River_. It is only divided from the latter, at the -mouth, by a very low cape, called _Point of Marsh_, upon which an -exceeding high wooden beacon has been erected by the Company, to enable -their ships to distinguish the mouth of the river. The continual washing -of the waters on either side of the _Point of Marsh_ has enabled the sea -to encroach a great deal on the land, and thereby created many dangerous -shoals in the mouths of the rivers: the navigation has, by these means, -been rendered extremely contracted and difficult. The breaking up of the -rivers in the spring tends also, in a great measure, to increase these -evils: for, in the first place, the ice being driven towards the sea -with an amazing velocity, it carries every thing forcibly away, and -causes a general ruin upon the banks, by cutting down large bodies of -earth, and hurling trees and rocks from their places. In the second -place, it frequently happens that immense stones lying at the bottom of -the rivers become fixed into the ice during the winter, and the freshes, -in the spring, consequently bear them away towards the sea; but the ice -not being able to sustain their ponderous weight for any length of time, -it naturally occurs, that those masses become disengaged, and are -deposited at the mouths of the rivers, where they not only incommode the -passages, but likewise injure the ships’ cables by their friction. - - On the second day after our coming, an _Indian_ Chief arrived at the -factory from Lake _Winnepeg_, and some of our officers brought him on -board. He staid with us two days; and as he was the Chief of one of -those tribes who still maintain a great part of their primeval manners, -_untainted_ by _European_ civilization, a full description of him may -not be thought unentertaining. - - This man had been brought from Lord _Selkirk’s_ colony, at _Red -River_, to _York Factory_, by Captain _M^cDonald_, the chief of the -colony. As far as I could collect, his tribe are properly called the -_Sotees_, or people who go up and down the falls of rivers. But they -have been styled _Bongees_ by the _British_, from their being addicted -to mendacity; and as they are always crying out “_Bongee!_” which, in -their tongue, signifies “a little,” perhaps, too, the colonists may have -thought the appellation peculiarly adapted to the _Sotees_, as they are -but a weak tribe in point of numbers. - - The Chief in question was about five feet eight inches high, and, to -all appearance, about thirty years of age. It seems that he had some -claims to the territory on which Lord _Selkirk’s_ colony now stands; but -he had sold his birth-right “for a mess of pottage.” Therefore, to keep -him in good humour with the infant establishment, he had been brought -down on a visit to _York Factory_, where it was intended that he should -receive an accumulation of honours. A coat of coarse blue cloth, -tawdrily ornamented with tarnished lace, and adorned with -shoulder-knots; a round hat, with a red ostrich feather in front; a very -coarse white shirt, with frill and ruffles; a pair of red stockings, -yellow garters, and black shoes, were presented to him immediately upon -his arrival. If we add to all this finery, his native ornaments, such as -a neck-band of wampum or bead-work[34], a long string of beads suspended -by his hair from each temple, and a number of large metal links of the -coarsest workmanship, dangling from either ear, his appearance will -naturally be imagined to have bordered upon the grotesque. His thighs -were entirely naked, as he could not be prevailed upon to fetter them -with breeches; and the cartilage of his nose had been perforated. - - He appeared a very intelligent man, and was highly delighted with -every thing he saw on board the ship. He was not particularly pleased -with any of our musical instruments, except the drum. A sky-rocket -struck him quite dumb with astonishment; and he afterwards observed to a -person who understood his language, “That the _Water-Governors_[35] must -be very powerful, who could thus force the stars to fall from the sky.” -Like most _Indians_, he was a great egotist, and the general tenor of -his conversation ran upon his dignity. He observed that he was a -Governor, like ourselves; and when the snow became deep on the ground, -his tribe were going out, under his command, to make war upon the _Swee_ -Tribe; and that after quitting his own territory, he expected to meet -his enemy in eight days. He exulted that he had already killed two of -the _Swee_ nation with his own hand; and he gave us to understand, that -his own tribe always made war on horseback. We presented him with a -cutlass, at which he was delighted, waving it above his head, and -boasting what wonders he should be able to perform by its assistance. -Upon the whole, he was rather a swaggerer; but, perhaps, this was a -little excusable; because, according to the character given of him by -those _Europeans_ who had heard of his fame, he had acquired an amazing -influence amongst many savage tribes, by his courage and wisdom. Indeed, -his remaining two days with us, perfectly easy and contented, is a proof -that he possessed a good share of the former quality; particularly as we -were all utter strangers to him, and he had neither seen the sea nor a -ship before in his life: nor did he appear to be at all deficient in the -more tender susceptibilities of nature. He had two wives, four sons, and -six daughters; and when I presented him with a few spangles and beads, -he gave me to understand, that those trifles would be received with -great pleasure by his children, on his return to his native country. It -surprised us much to observe with what a degree of exactness he copied -all our methods of eating, drinking, &c. As we desired to hear him sing, -we took advantage of his imitative powers to make him comprehend our -wishes: accordingly, the person who sat next to him began first, and the -song went regularly round the table, until it reached the _Bongee_ -Chief; when, instantly taking the hint, he rose up, and prefaced his -ditty with a long speech, which we of course did not comprehend; but, by -his gestures, we could perceive that it was evidently intended as an -explanation of the subject on which he was about to sing. Then he -suddenly struck off into an air that gave us a much higher opinion of -the strength than the harmony of his voice. The subject, we could -perceive, was an appeal to the Deity (_Manito_), to protect the ship -from all dangers, in her voyage across the waters. We had many other -songs from him during the evening: and on a special application, we were -favoured with a specimen of the war-whoop, a most discordant howl, -produced by striking the hand quick against the mouth, and shouting at -the same time. But the most farcical scene of all was the business of -getting him into a bed. The purser of the ship undertook the difficult -task of chambermaid; but our _Indian_ Chief disencumbered himself of all -his finery in a twinkling; and having reduced himself to a state of -nature, he rolled head foremost into the bed, placing his feet upon the -pillow: this produced great vexation in the mind of his _Abigail_, who -the next night succeeded, with much difficulty, in causing his _Indian_ -Highness to lie down like a _Christian_. - - On the evening of the second day, our _Indian_ friend left us, to -return back to his native country. He seemed to feel great regret at -parting with the _Water-Governors_; and he gave us all to understand, -that if we should hereafter visit his territories, he would insure us a -hearty welcome, and a handsome bed-fellow to boot. - - Captain _Stopford_ having expressed a wish to observe the manner of -killing the reindeer, as practised by the _Indians_, and a party being -accordingly made to ascend the river, we left the factory early in the -morning, with a small boat of Captain _Stopford_’s, and a birch-bark -canoe to carry the provisions, tents, &c. We continued to push along -shore, against the stream, until 10 A.M. when we rested at a small -creek, called _Dram-gat_, to breakfast. _Dram-gat_ is about seven miles -from the factory: it abounds with wild-duck; and receives its name from -an old custom of giving the people in the traders’ boats a dram at this -spot, previously to proceeding farther on their journey up the river. -The tide of the sea ceases to affect the current of the river entirely -at the _Dram-gat_. - - We landed upon the bank, kindled a fire, and roasted some -venison-steaks after the _Indian_ manner, called by them _ponask_. -Having cut a long skewer of wood, they scrape off the bark, and stick -the meat upon its point. The other end of the skewer is then forced into -the ground, close to the fire; and by turning it round occasionally, the -food is soon sufficiently cooked. I never tasted any thing more savoury -than a venison-steak prepared in this manner. After making a hearty -meal, we embarked again; and two men taking out a line to the beach, we -were thus laboriously dragged along shore. There are many islands and -shoals on the south side of the river; whilst the northern shore is, -generally speaking, steep. The mouth of _Hayes’ River_ is gradually -verging towards the north, in consequence of the perceptible -encroachments of the water upon the north bank, and the evident emerging -of islands and shoals towards the south side of the river. - - As we proceeded up the stream, we met several canoes of _Indians_, -deeply laden with venison for the factory. After receiving from us a -small present of tobacco, they continued their course. - - At 3 P.M. we had reached a large circular island on the south side -of the river, called _Rainbow Island_. The view from this spot was -delightfully picturesque. The northern shore was bounded with high clay -banks, covered with dark forests of the spruce-pine tree. Above us, upon -the southern banks, five or six remarkable mounds of earth rose -majestically from the river. At the termination of a long view upwards, -the stream was lost in a sudden bend to the northward; and the vista in -that direction was bounded by a noble grove of poplars, that stood on -the declivity of the green sloping bank; and their bright yellow colour -formed a fine contrast with the sable hue of a frowning forest in the -back ground. Directly opposite to the place where we stood, several -_Indian_ canoes lay scattered about the shore; and the natives sat -regaling themselves, around a blazing fire upon the beach. The river, -glittering with the golden tints of the sun, ran smoothly beneath our -feet; and a little farther down, foamed, in distant murmurs, over a -shoal-bed of pebbles. Whilst we stood contemplating the varied objects -in this interesting scene, a flock of wild geese flew screaming past; -and a gentleman, who knew the country well, immediately observed, that -we should have an “_early fall_;” thereby intimating that the winter -would soon make its appearance. Our admiration of the fine view before -us instantly gave way to other sensations; and we could not avoid -wishing ourselves speedily out of a country where the transition is so -instantaneous, from the most oppressive heat to intense cold; where the -ground is bound up in frost eight months of the year; and the miserable -inhabitants are tormented to madness by heat and mosquitoes during the -remaining four. - - Upon leaving _Rainbow Island_, we approached the spiral mounds of -earth before mentioned. Their formation was so regular, that an -enthusiastic antiquary might easily have believed them to be antient -_Indian_ Tumuli; but upon a close inspection, we plainly perceived that -they had been separated from the body of the bank by the ices in the -spring; and they had probably assumed a circular form owing to the -washing of the great floods which follow the breaking up of the rivers, -and melting of the snows, at that season of the year. - - [Illustration: _Interior of a Wigwam of the Cree Indians - London Published by J. Mawman 16.^th May 1817_] - - About 5 P.M. we reached a place called _Poplar-fall_; and observing -an _Indian_ wigwam on the north bank, we crossed the river, and encamped -within pistol-shot of it. We had pitched our tent within the wood; and -from it we could discern the river, at intervals, through the openings -of the trees. Although we were but a short distance from the _Indian_ -wigwam, yet the wood was so intricate, that we found it difficult to -find our way thither. We, however, paid the natives a visit, and sat -familiarly down in the wigwam. It contained one old and two young men, -one old and one young woman, and five or six children of both sexes, -besides two infants. The wigwam was a circular tent, constructed with -three or four poles, lashed together at the top, and covered over with -an inferior kind of leather, made of tanned deer-skins. In the midst of -the tent was a blazing fire; and in the smoke above, a quantity of -deer’s flesh was suspended, after the manner of bacon in _England_. On -the outside of the hut, there were several stages, on which their strips -of venison were exposed in the sun to dry, for the winter’s consumption. -After sitting a short time with the natives, and inquiring at what part -of the river the rein-deer were crossing, we were at length about to -depart, when the old _Indian_ presented Captain _Stopford_ with eight -deers’ legs, which, when roasted, are considered a great delicacy, on -account of the rich marrow they contain. The young woman then gave -another of our party a deer’s heart and tongue; and the old squaw, whose -aspect was sufficient to give any man a dis-relish to the whole sex, -kindly tossed into my lap a head and a brisket. Laden with these -presents, we returned to our tents, and dined heartily off a tongue and -heart, _ponasked_. But our kind _Indian_ neighbours had not been so -exceedingly munificent without entertaining strong expectations of an -adequate remuneration: accordingly, the visit was soon returned by the -whole horde; and the old _Indian_ brought a kettle in his hand, which -was intended as a _gentle hint_ that he wished for a liquid equivalent. -We therefore gave him about a quart of rum, mixed with three quarts of -water, and a trifling supply of tobacco. Extraordinary as it may appear, -this small donation was amply sufficient to intoxicate every member of -the wigwam; and their voices resounded, in song, through the woods, for -many hours after we had retired to rest. - - Very shortly after the first dawn of day, we were awakened by the -old _Indian_: he came to inform us, that several herd of deer had -already crossed the river, and that it was high time we should repair to -our stations, to intercept any more which might attempt to follow; as it -is an ascertained fact, that these animals, during their periodical -journeys, are accustomed to follow each other’s footsteps. - - According to the old _Indian_’s advice, we proceeded about two miles -farther up the river, until we reached a place called _Twenty-mile -Island_; so named from its distance from _York Factory_. Still pursuing -the directions of the friendly _Indian_, we hauled our canoe close to -the beach, on the north side of the river; as, at this season of the -year, the rein-deer, in pursuance of their northern journey, cross all -the rivers from the southward. The _Indian_ proceeded with his canoe -higher up the stream, and took his post opposite to the spot from whence -he had seen the before-mentioned herds crossing in the morning: he then -concealed himself in the high grass, by the side of his canoe; and we -also followed his example. After lying thus in ambush for a short time, -a small herd, consisting of five deer and a fawn, appeared on the south -bank of the river, exactly opposite the old _Indian_’s canoe. The timid -and wary animals stood for some time on the bank of the river, casting -an inquisitive glance across the water. We all crouched closer than -before, in the grass; and we had soon the satisfaction to see the whole -herd leap boldly from the shore. The _Indian_ above us immediately -pushed across the stream with his canoe, to intercept the retreat of the -deer; and this he was enabled to do unobserved, as he was also a -considerable distance above the deer; and the animals neither looked to -the right nor to the left, but kept their eyes anxiously fixed on the -shore which they were endeavouring to reach. As our lurking-place was -about half a mile lower down than the place from whence the deer had -taken to the water, and the rapid current of the river naturally drifted -them downwards, they would have attempted to land close to us, had not a -shoal in the river arrested their progress, upon which they mounted; and -by their superior height they immediately discovered us. The deer now -stood hesitating what they should do; and so in fact did we: but our -_Indian_ co-adjutor having by this time succeeded in gaining the -opposite shore, called loudly on us to rise and advance. As soon as we -sprang from the grass, the affrighted herd replunged into the river, and -attempted to gain the shore which they had quitted; but we pursued them -across the stream with such activity, that only one effected its -landing, and the remaining four again turned their heads to gain the -northern bank. From this moment their deaths were considered inevitable, -as the chief skill then lay in continually turning the weary animals -from the shore, which we were easily enabled to do, by the superior -speed of our canoe. The _Indian_, meanwhile, followed close behind a -large buck, until it approached the bank; when he deliberately speared -it in the haunch; and as it emerged from the water, he fired a bullet -into its body: yet the animal ran with speed into the wood, and we all -naturally concluded it must have escaped;—but the skilful hunter smiled -at the idea: “No, no,” said he; “I have it safe:—now for another;” on -which, he wheeled about his canoe, and instantly speared to death an -amazing fine doe. My gun being loaded with goose-shot only, I discharged -it into the rump of the surviving doe, which bled profusely; I also -again fired, and struck it on the nose, when my ramrod unfortunately -fell overboard: however, we still kept turning the animal from the -shore; and having now no weapon in the canoe wherewith we could kill it, -I was obliged to halloo for the _Indian_ to bring us a spear; -accordingly, he paddled towards the deer with all his might, and, on -reaching our canoe, tossed me the spear. Following the native’s example, -I made a deep thrust into its haunch, which soon put an end to its -existence; and putting a cord over its head, we towed it on shore in -triumph. - - As the _Indian_ had predicted, he soon found the carcase of the -wounded buck, lying about ten yards within the wood. Thus we succeeded -in obtaining _three_ out of the original _five_: and with respect to the -other two; one, as above-mentioned, made good its escape in the first -instance; and the fawn also landed, whilst we were engaged with the doe. - - I have been more particular in relating this expedition, because it -will serve as a specimen of the general manner in which the _Indians_ -procure their supplies of venison and deer-skins. There have been -instances of taking the rein-deer alive, by throwing a rope about the -antlers; but this can only be attempted by a boat, as the sudden plunges -of the animal, when thus entangled, is very likely to upset a slight -bark canoe. - - From the continual crossings that we had made athwart the stream, -whilst in pursuit of the deer, the current had drifted us down about two -miles below our encampment, which we did not regain until towards -evening; and our _Indian_ neighbour soon paid us a visit, to talk over -the day’s sport. Having received another present of _Scutee Wapper_[36] -(rum) and tobacco, he wished us a good-night; and their songs shortly -afterwards began to swell on the air; giving to us a sure indication of -the liquor having had its due effect on their senses. - - To conclude my account of the rein-deer of _Hudson’s Bay_, I must -observe, that they are evidently the same species with those of -_Lapland_; although the _Indians_ have never attempted to render them in -any way useful for domestic purposes: but Lord _Selkirk_, with his usual -perseverance, has procured people from _Sweden_ to train the rein-deer -in _Hudson’s Bay_; although they have not yet been a sufficient time in -the country to ascertain the practicability of such a scheme[37]. - - If the _Indians_ be so fortunate, during their hunting journeys, as -to kill a rein-deer in the woods, they eat of it until they literally -cannot cram another mouthful. When their meal is finished, they erect a -high stage, on which they lay the remainder of the carcase, so as to -secure it from the wild beasts; and then cover it with branches of -trees, to defend it against the birds of prey. All this trouble is -taken, that the food which they are compelled by necessity to leave -behind them may be of service to some wandering tribe of hunters like -themselves, who may not have been so fortunate as to have met with any -deer in their journey. - - When, therefore, in traversing the immense plains or forests of the -interior, a half-famished _Indian_ descries at a distance one of those -charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering -sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a -tempest-tost and bewildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark -clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the -situation of a sheltering port. Whenever an _Indian_ has satisfied his -hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the supporting poles -with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is -indebted for relief may perceive, on their return, whether their friends -have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point -of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before mentioned, -they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile -tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be -obliged to their enemy for relief. - - Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much -anxiety prevailing respecting the safety of a small schooner, which had -sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs from _Churchill River_, -and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such -apprehensions, as it blew a heavy gale on the day after her departure, -and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could -have possibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to -wait her return until the 28th of _September_, when prudence dictated -our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In -the mean time, we occupied our time in procuring a stock of fresh -provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party of _Indians_ -were despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with -eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the -southward of _York_; and several other parties of the natives poured in -a copious supply of venison and wild duck. - - Nor were we idle ourselves, as we constantly drew the _seine_ in the -mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were -exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted -of mullet, and _tittameg_, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers -of _Hudson’s Bay_. - - Before I quit entirely this almost unknown country, I shall insert -an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to -illustrate my own[38]. - - “The animals of _Hudson’s Bay_ are, the moose-deer, stags, -rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens, -squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese, -bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish, -whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns: and in the -rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been -taken in one season, at _Nelson River_, 90,000 partridges, as large as -hens; and 25,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; even -_European_ animals after being a short time in the country. - - “The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in -clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes: in other respects, -they are very savage[39]. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble -the _Indians_, who live to the south: they are more like the -_Laplanders_ and _Samoeids_ of _Europe_, from whom they are probably -descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks -or boats[40]. The other _Americans_ seem to be of a _Tartar_ original. - - “In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist -of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusive trade to this Bay; -and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to -themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much -greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive -Company; whose interested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the -subject of long and just complaint. The Company employ four ships, and -130 seamen[41]. - - “The _French_ destroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,000_l._ The -Company export commodities to the amount of 16,000_l._ and bring home -returns to the value of 29,340_l._ which yield to the revenue 3,734_l._ -This includes the fishing in _Hudson’s Bay_. - - “This commerce, small as it is, affords great profits to the -Company, and is advantageous to _Great Britain_ in general; for the -commodities we exchange with the _Indians_, for their skins and furs, -are all manufactured in _Great Britain_; and as the _Indians_ are not -very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the -greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, are _drugs_ with -us.——Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so -deficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may -nevertheless be admired by the _Indians_. On the other hand, the skins -and furs we bring from _Hudson’s Bay_ enter largely into our -manufactures, and afford us materials for a lucrative trade with many -nations of _Europe_. These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the -immense benefit that would redound to _Great Britain_ by throwing open -the trade to _Hudson’s Bay_; since, even in its present restrained -state, it is so advantageous. The exclusive Company, it is probable, do -not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession -of _Canada_. The only attempt made to trade with _Labrador_ has been -directed towards the fishery. - - “From the journeys of _M^cKenzie_ and _Hearne_, a complete -confirmation has arisen, that there can be no northern communication -between the _Atlantic_ and _Pacific Oceans_, except at so high a -latitude that it must be impeded by perpetual ice. - - “The mouth of the _Copper-mine River_, as ascertained by Mr. -_Hearne_, lies in latitude 72° N.; longitude, 119° W. of _Greenwich_.” - - Since the _British_ have had possession of _Canada_, a strong -competition has arisen between the people of that country and the -_Hudson’s-Bay_ traders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of -a free trade into _Hudson’s Bay_ would be productive of those very -advantageous results which Mr. _Pinkerton_ has supposed: the -indefatigable _Canadians_ have contrived to carry their mercantile -expeditions into almost every part of the N. W. continent of _America_; -and it can be of little political consequence to the mother country, -whether the peltry trade is made to pass through _Canada_ or _Hudson’s -Bay_; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the -Bay might operate as a stimulus upon the _Esquimaux_, to animate their -exertions in the seal and whale fisheries; as they would be then certain -of finding an adequate market for their oil, whalebone, and seal-skins. - - That nothing serves so effectually to deaden the spirit of -mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old -record of the year 1742; which runs thus:— - - “When the _Indians_ came to the factory in _June_ 1742, they could get - but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for - one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve, - two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a - pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a - hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for - seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. - Notwithstanding which discouragement, the _Indians_ brought down to - _Port Nelson_ that season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these - beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereas those - which the _English_ purchase at _New York_ are not worth more than - three shillings and sixpence a pound. - - “Besides these skins, the _Indians_, during the same year (1742), - brought to the factory, at _Churchill_, 20,000 beaver skins.” - -If the _Indians_ were industrious at a season when their labour was so -miserably repaid, they would consequently become, at this moment, much -more diligent; because, owing to the competition before noticed, they -are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their -commodities. - -To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late -very visible diminution in the staple article of their commerce, the -beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals are becoming much more -scarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are -sought out and invaded. - -The 28th of _September_ having at length arrived, and the mercury in -_Fahrenheit_’s thermometer having sunk to 20°, we gave up all hopes of -the schooner returning from _Churchill_; and came to the melancholy -conclusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore -weighed anchor from _York River_, and steered our course towards the -north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place, -to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that -factory; but a brisk gale springing up from the N. W. which was -immediately against us, we gave up our design of visiting _Churchill_, -and bore away for _Hudson’s Straits_. From henceforward we had one -continued gale in our favour, until we reached the _Orkneys_, after an -unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing through _Hudson’s -Straits_, we could perceive none of the drift-ice or _Esquimaux_, which -were so plentiful in our voyage outwards: the former had been carried -away to the ocean, by the prevalence of the southerly currents; and the -latter had most probably retired to their winter habitations. - -We saw, however, many _icebergs_ of enormous magnitude in the _Straits_; -but, after leaving _Cape Resolution_, we reached the _Orkneys_ without -noticing any more of those dangerous islands[42]. - -We remained at the _Orkneys_ nineteen days before the other -_Hudson’s-Bay_ ship arrived from thence; but she had experienced much -bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselves. - -A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at the _Orkneys_, will -conclude this Journal. - -Entering _Stromness Harbour_, by the _Hoy Passage_, the view on either -hand is extremely awful and sublime. _Hoy Head_ is a tremendous height; -and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western -side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so, -indeed, that it obtained the appellation of _Hoy Walls_. At a particular -part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from -the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by -the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all their -shocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as to be styled -the _Old Man of Hoy_. This gigantic figure may be about five hundred -feet high. - -If the lowness of the eastern shore gives it a less grand appearance, -yet the ledges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel has -perished, together with the horrid breakers roaring mountain high above -them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with equal awe and terror. - -The Cathedral of _St. Magnus_, at _Kirkwall_, is built of a reddish kind -of stone, in the shape of a cross; and it looks, at a short distance, -much like a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions; and appears -to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an -eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of the cathedral, in the -centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire; but -being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick -substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of -windows; many of which have been lately broken; and there are two in the -shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful. - -The doors of this structure are low and arched, surrounded by a curious -embroidery of the same red stone as the rest of the building. On -entering the main portal, the space not allotted to public worship, the -roof is supported by a double row of enormous columns, eight on each -side: they are very simple and plain, composed of square stones laid -over each other horizontally, and the shafts of the pillars are of the -same diameter from their capitals to their bases. Owing to the moisture -of the place, a green mould has covered them, and given to the interior -a most venerable aspect. - -Passing up the centre of the isle between these aged pillars, we arrive -at the centre of the cross, where four immense fluted columns support -the spire, bells, and clock. A boarded partition then runs across the -church; and a scrap of Scripture painted over a door marks out the place -of modern worship. The interior of this part is neat, and ornamented -with some fine specimens of carved oak, about two hundred years old. -Over many of the seats are antique escutcheons of the former Earls of -_Orkney_. The one appertaining to Earl Patrick Stuart, last Earl of -_Orkney_, (who was beheaded,) was quartered with lions and ships, and -inscribed thus: - - E SIC · FVIT · EST · ET · ERIT - = - P : S - -We had the curiosity to go up to the belfry, by spiral staircases -between the outer and inner walls of the cathedral. The number and -intricacy of these dark passages was really astonishing; and the -darkness of the place inspiring gloomy ideas, we fancied that it was in -such dismal recesses that the bigotted monks used formerly to immure -their victims. There is one fine bell, and two inferior ones, in the -church, and a noble clock by a _Scotch_ mechanist. From the belfry, a -small door opens upon a rough ledge about two feet wide: the view from -this dizzy height was extremely fine, as the town of _Kirkwall_, the -adjacent islands, and numerous lochs, appear to lie in a panoramic view -beneath the feet: but we were truly glad to re-enter the belfry, as the -want of security on the ledge quite destroyed the pleasure arising from -so fine a prospect. - -On leaving the Cathedral of _St. Magnus_, we stepped aside, between the -enormous circular columns before mentioned, to observe the only -sepulchral arch of any antique appearance in the place. There was a -shield sculptured at the apex, bearing three _hearts_ as a device; from -which we conjectured that it must have received the ashes of a -_Douglas_—the _heart_ having been the device of this family ever since -the heart of the far-famed _Bruce_ was conveyed, by that king’s desire, -to the _Holy Land_, by an Earl _Douglas_[43]. - -This noble cathedral is said to have been built in the year 1200, and is -in an excellent state of preservation. - -On the right of _St. Magnus_ stand the ruins of the palaces formerly -inhabited by the Earls and Bishops of _Orkney_. The cathedral and palace -are within a stone’s throw of each other; but the latter stands on each -side of a space which appears to have been the former court-yard of the -building. The entrance to this court-yard is by a low arched gateway. -The palace of the Earls is in better preservation than the cathedral; -and it is to be regretted, that the dilapidations to which it is exposed -are suffered to take place. - -The corners of the Earl’s palace are laden with immense turrets, which -give the building a very heavy appearance. The main portal is a massy -low doorway; and the ascent to the great hall is by a fine broad flight -of stone steps. Within the hall are two arched fire-places, each -sufficiently capacious to roast a whole ox at a time. One of the -fire-places is formed beneath an arch constructed in the usual way; but -the other is considered as a curiosity in architecture: it is a plane -arch, supported by the transverse joining of the stones without the aid -of cement. The windows of the hall are high and arched, but without -either frame-work or glass. - -The Bishop’s palace is now nearly destroyed; and, from the unceasing -attacks made upon it, will soon be entirely so. - -It is difficult to ascertain the original shape of this venerable -structure; there being but two walls now remaining. At the end of one of -these walls is a circular tower, of great strength and solidity, which, -probably, was intended for the defence of the palace. Although the Earl -and the Bishop had their residences so near to each other, yet the -temporal and ecclesiastical Chiefs were ever at variance, and their -quarrels and intrigues occupy a large portion of the _Orkney_ history. - -The town of _Kirkwall_ consists of one long narrow street, which, from -its proximity to the sea, and its central situation, was chosen to be -the metropolis of the _Orkneys_ many years ago: it is now a royal burgh, -and it sends one member to Parliament. The street is generally damp and -muddy, and there are very few good-looking houses in it. The house of a -gentleman of the name of _Baikie_ has five or six trees growing before -it; and these are, I believe, almost the only trees in _Orkney_; -although it be proved, from the number of roots dug up occasionally, -that the _Orkneys_, in former times, were by no means destitute of -wood[44]. - -The town is badly lighted; but, in this respect, it is superior to -_Stromness_; which place cannot boast of a single lamp. When we -mentioned this inconvenience, during a conversation with one of the -magistrates, he most ingeniously parried the attack, by asserting that -the inhabitants were all so sober and good, that they never quitted -their houses after dark; consequently the lighting of the town would be -attended with _unnecessary_ expense and trouble. - -The people of _Kirkwall_ boast much of the _Ayr_, a public promenade -belonging to the town. The _Ayr_ is a natural embankment, projecting -like a pier into the sea, and it is washed on both sides by the water. -In summer time, the _Ayr_ must prove a very refreshing walk, and an -agreeable escape from the filthy street of _Kirkwall_. - -With regard to the people of _Orkney_, it will be only necessary to add, -that a most unbounded hospitality is their leading characteristic; and -perhaps an eager curiosity is also an equally prominent trait. When a -stranger enters the town of _Kirkwall_, the intelligence of his arrival -flies with the rapidity of wild-fire: the old women, with their knitting -apparatus in their hands, stand staring at the doors; and they hardly -suffer him to pass, before his ears are assailed by a general inquiry of -“_D’ye ken wha that chiel is?_” This exclamation is repeated by a dozen -voices at once, at every door he passes in his route; and he will -perhaps feel uneasy in thus becoming an object of scrutiny to the whole -population. - -The people of _Orkney_ are naturally grave and sober, with much outward -appearance of devotion; yet, at the annual fair which is held at -_Kirkwall_, they suddenly relax into the most unbridled licentiousness: -neither are they in general to be admired for the honour or liberality -of their dealings, as they delight in making what is called a “_gude -bargain_;” and they feel no hesitation in overcharging a stranger, to -accomplish this desirable end. - -I shall here conclude this Narrative; merely adding, that the _Rosamond_ -and her convoy again sailed from the _Orkneys_ on the 7th of _November_, -and arrived safe at the _Nore_ on the 17th of the same month; when an -inspection having been made of the _Rosamond_’s defects, she was -reported to be totally unfit for sea, in consequence of the damage she -had sustained amongst the ice of _Hudson’s Straits_; and she was -accordingly put out of commission, and immediately advertised to be sold -out of His Majesty’s service. - - - - - Appendix (A). - STATEMENT _of the_ VARIATION _of the_ COMPASS, - WEST FROM LONDON. - - - From the Latitude of 59° 00 N. - From the Longitude of 3° to 6° 28° - 6° ... 12° 31° - 12° ... 16° 32° - 16° ... 18° 34° - 18° ... 22° 36° - 22° ... 26° 38° - 26° ... 30° 40° - 30° ... 34° 42° - 34° ... 39° 44° - 39° ... 42° 45° - 42° ... 60° 45° - 60° ... 63° 47° - 63° ... 78° into Lat. 63° N. 48° & 49° - 78° ... 81° 62° 40′ 48° - 81° 45′ ... — 62° 38′ 46° - 82° — ... — 62° 36′ 44° - 82° 15′ ... — 62° 34′ 42° - 82° 00′ ... — 62° 32′ 40° - 82° 45′ ... — 62° 30′ 38° - 83° — ... — 62° 25′ 36° - 83° 30′ ... — 62° 00′ 33° - 85° 00′ ... — 61° 30′ 28° - 87° 00′ ... — 60° 45′ 22° - 89° — ... — 59° 45′ 19° - 91° — ... 92° 59° 00′ 11° - 92° — ... 95° 59° 00′ 5° - - Lat. of _Hoy Head_ 58° 58′ N. Long. 3° 30′ W. - —— of _York Factory_ 57° 2′ N. —— 92° 40′ W. - —— of _Cape Churchill_ 58° 50′ N. —— 93° 4′ W. - —— Where the Ships lay at _York_ 57° 8′ N. —— 92° 30′ W. - - - - - Appendix (B). - TABLE _of the_ VOYAGES _of the_ COMPANY’S SHIPS _to_ HUDSON’S BAY, - _since the Year 1773_. - - - Date. Arrived Arrived Arrived Whither Arrived at - abreast of abreast of abreast of bound. _Hudson’s - _Charles_. _Cape Diggs_. _Mansfield Bay_. - Isle_. - - 1773 Did not see Aug. 12 Did not see it CR Aug. 20 - it - 1774 Aug. 6 . . . Aug. 9 MR Sept. 5 - 1779 Aug. 22 Aug. 24 Aug. 25 MR Sept. 3 - 1780 Aug. 21 Aug. 25 . . . MR Sept. 4 - 1783 Sept. 2 Sept. 4 . . . MR Sept. 17 - 1784 Aug. 21 Aug. 25 Aug. 26 YF Aug. 31 - 1788 July 31 Aug. 1 . . . MR Aug. 15 - 1789 Aug. 4 Aug. 7 Aug. 7 YF Aug. 16 - 1791 Aug. 19 Aug. 21 Aug. 22 CR Aug. 31 - 1793 July 29 Aug. 2 . . . YF Aug. 11 - 1794 Aug. 4 Aug. 6 . . . CR Aug. 16 - 1796 Aug. 1 Aug. 2 . . . MR Aug. 20 - 1797 July 29 Aug. 4 . . . MR Aug. 28 - 1798 Aug. 22 Aug. 26 . . . MR Sept. 5 - 1799 Aug. 19 Aug. 21 . . . MR Aug. 30 - 1800 . . . Aug. 29 . . . YF Sept. 6 - 1801 . . . Aug. 6 . . . CR Aug. 16 - 1802 Aug. 4 Aug. 9 . . . MR Aug. 11 - 1803 . . . Aug. 4 Aug. 5 MR Aug. 5 - 1804 July 28 July 30 . . . MR Aug. 5 - 1805 Aug. 9 Aug. 10 Aug. 11 MR Aug. 16 - 1806 Aug. 1 Aug. 5 . . . MR Aug. 17 - 1807 Aug. 22 Aug. 29 Aug. 31 YF Sept. 18 - 1808 July 20 July 24 . . . MR Aug. 14 - 1809 Aug. 16 Aug. 20 . . . MR Aug. 30 - 1810 July 21 July 30 . . . MR Aug. 10 - 1811 Sept 13 . . . Sept. 16 MR Sept. 26 - 1812 . . . . . . . . . CR - 1813 . . . Aug. 11 . . . CR Aug. 19 - - _Note._—CR signifies _Churchill River_—MR _Mouse River_— YF _York - Factory_. - - - - - Appendix (C). - THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS - MADE AT - OXFORD HOUSE, HUDSON’S BAY - _In the Year 1811_ - UPON THE SCALE OF _FAHRENHEIT_. - Shewing the _Extreme Heat_ and _Extreme Cold_ of each Month. - - - JANUARY. - - State of the Atmosphere. - _Extreme Heat._ - At Noon on the 20th, 38 degrees above 0 Rainy. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 8 A.M. on the 12th, 51 degrees below 0 Clear. - - FEBRUARY. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 24th, 39 degrees above 0 Cloudy. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 8 A.M. on the 20th, 35 degrees below 0 Clear. - - MARCH. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 17th, 44 degrees above 0 Overcast, Rain. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 5th, 31 degrees below 0 Clear. - - APRIL. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 14th, 57 degrees above 0 Overcast. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 3d, 22 degrees below 0 Clear. - - MAY. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 30th, 65 degrees above 0 Cloudy. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 5 A.M. on the 10th, 15 degrees above 0 Clear. - - JUNE. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 4. A.M. on the 22d, 85 degrees above 0 Thick fog. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 5 A.M. on the 1st, 32 degrees above 0 Showers. - - JULY. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 5 A.M. on the 18th, 85 degrees above 0 Clear. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 5 A.M. on the 29th, 35 degrees above 0 Cloudy. - - AUGUST. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 17th, 80 degrees above 0 Clear. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 5 A.M. on the 26th, 37 degrees above 0 Clear. - - SEPTEMBER. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 5 A.M. on the 6th, 78 degrees above 0 Clear. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 30th, 18 degrees above 0 Clear. - - OCTOBER. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 6 A.M. on the 4th, 45 degrees above 0 Clear. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 21st, 11 degrees below 0 Clear. - - NOVEMBER. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 6 A.M. on the 2d, 37 degrees above 0 Rather overcast. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 18th, 26 degrees below 0 Overcast. - - DECEMBER. - - _Extreme Heat._ - At 8 P.M. on the 6th, 22 degrees above 0 Clear. - _Extreme Cold._ - At 6 A.M. on the 23d, 31 degrees below 0 Cloudy. - - - - - Appendix (D.) - ABSTRACT _of the_ RECKONING _of the_ VOYAGE _of His_ MAJESTY’S SHIP - ROSAMOND, _from_ HUDSON’S STRAITS _to the_ ORKNEYS. - - - Date. Course Distance Latitude by Latitude Longitude REMARKS. - corrected. run. Observation. by by - Account. Account. - - _Oct._ 6. At 6 P.M. we took our departure from _Cape Resolution_, bearing North - by Compass, distant 15 miles. - 7. S. E. by 62 miles No 60°.46′N. 62°.50′W. A very thick - E. ¼ E. observation misty day, - with a - tumbling sea. - 8. S. E. by 90 miles Sun obscured 60. 7 59.48 In the - E. ¾ E. morning the - wind shifted - to the N. N. - E. and blew a - heavy gale - with a high - sea. - 9. E. S. E. 187 miles Sun obscured 58.55 54.00 Scudding - under a - close-reefed - main-topsail. - 10. E. by S. 154 miles Sun obscured 58.25 49. 6 The wind - varying - continually, - accompanied - by heavy hail - showers. - 11. E. by S. 187 miles Sun obscured 57.54 43.20 A strong wind - with a heavy - sea. We - consider - ourselves - this day - nearly - abreast of - _Cape - Farewell_. - 12. E. ¼ S. 200 miles 57°.46′N. 57. 2 A very heavy - gale from the - North. - Scudding - under the - goose wings - of the - foresail. - 13. E. ½ N. 229 miles 58. 5 29.52 A tremendous - high sea - running. - Scudding - under a - main-topsail. - 14. E. ½ N. 203 miles 58.17 25.34 Scudding in - very fierce - squalls. - _Prince of - Wales_ in - company. - 15. N. 89° E. 165 miles 58.23 18.24 A fine day. - Wind in the - N. W. - quarter, much - more moderate. - 16. East 186 miles 58.23 12.24 Weather - moderate, - with a fine - fair breeze. - 17. E. ¼ N. 152 miles Sun obscured 58.32 7.38 On a - calculation, - we lost time, - since leaving - _Cape - Resolution_, - 3 hrs. 49 - min.; for - which loss we - allow 28 - miles. This - correction - makes the - longitude - 8°.31′ W. - 18. At day-light we saw the Butt of the _Lewis Islands_, having run 70 - miles E. ¼ S. since yesterday at noon. Observed the Isles of _Barra_ - and _Rona_. - 19. In the morning, made all sail; and at noon we anchored in _Stromness_ - Harbour, after the shortest passage from _York Fort_ ever before - known. The _Prince of Wales_ accompanied us into the harbour. - - - - - Appendix (E). - LIST - OF THE - DRESSES, &c. OF THE ESQUIMAUX INDIANS - IN HUDSON’S STRAITS - _Brought by His Majesty’s Ship_ Rosamond _in_ 1814 - AND - Presented by LIEUTENANT CHAPPELL to the University Library at _Cambridge_. - - -Dress of the Men, made of Seal-skins. - -Dress of the Women, with a Hood and Tail, made of the Moose-Deer Skins. - -Seal-skin Boots of the Men, water proof. - -Boots of the Women. - -Gloves of ditto. - -Dress of an _Esquimaux_ Child, made of the Skins of Sea Mice. - -Pouch of Seal-skin. - -Ditto of the Dog-fish, with the Fins remaining, as Ornaments. - -Small Box made of Rushes, in which they carry their Trinkets. - -A most curious Mask for defending the Eyes from the Snow, with a Place -for the Ornaments of their Foreheads. - -Barb of a Harpoon, with Sculptured Images of Water-Fowls. - -Instrument whereby they hurl their Darts, Arrows, and Harpoons. - -Two of their Images; the one representing a _Man_, and the other a -_Woman_, in the _Esquimaux_ Dress; shewing the first dawning of -sculpture, and their inability to represent the human countenance, -hands, or feet. - - -LIST _of Articles illustrating the Manners and Customs of the Natives of -the North-western Coast of_ America; _brought to_ Europe _by Commodore_ -Billings. - -Machines used in casting their Arrows; from the neighbourhood of _Cook’s -River_. - -Harpoons of Bone, with Ropes made of the Tendons of Animals. - -Ditto of Fossil Ivory, with ditto. - -Idols of Wood and Hair, brought to the Coast from the interior of the -_North-American_ Continent. - -Bone Fish-hooks. - -Pouches, worn by the Men for covering the Genitals, made of a Marine -Plant. - -Head-dresses of the Women, made of the Entrails of Fishes. - -Dresses of Men and Women, made of Skins of Moose-Deer. - -Bracelets and Fishing-lines made of Fishes’ Entrails. - -Thread for Sewing, manufactured of the same materials. - -Needle-work of the Women, ditto. - -Circular Rattle of the Enchanters or Sorcerers, made of the Beaks of -Sea-Hawks. - -Bonnet worn by the Men; adorned with long Spikes made of the Beard of -the Sea-Lion. - -Hatchet for making Canoes; the Handle being of wood, to which, by -thongs, a piece of _Jade_ is fastened. - -Lancet for Bleeding, made of _Pitchstone_. - -Idols made of the Sea-Mouse, adorned with Porcupine’s Quills. - -Work-bags and Needle-cases, made of Fishes’ Entrails; the Needles, of -Fishes’ Bones; &c. &c.; from _Prince William’s Sound_. - -Small Boxes, and Pouches for carrying Trinkets, &c. - -Fish-hooks, False Worms as Baits, Idols, Ornaments for Bonnets, &c. - -Seal-skin Boots. - - - - - Appendix (F). - A VOCABULARY - OF THE - LANGUAGE - OF THE - _CREÉ or KNISTENEAUX[45] INDIANS_ - INHABITING - THE WESTERN SHORES OF HUDSON’S BAY -Presented to the Author by a Trader who had resided Thirty Years in that - Country. - - - _Athis_, implies what is past, and could - not be avoided. - _As-tum_, Come here. - _As-tum-et-tay_, On this side of any particular - spot. - _As-kow-wee_, Rotten. - _Ap-pah-qua-soon_, Tent leather alone. - _Ap-pus-swy-uch_, Tent-poles. - _Ah-chakk_, The soul. - _As-tum-as-taik_, In the sunshine. - _Awoos-us-pee_, Past such a time. - _Astum-us-pee_, Prior to such a time. - _A-gues-spee_, At such a time. - _Ath-tha-gusk-cow_, Broad. - _Ah-to-we-thah_, It certainly was so. - _Ah-tues-cay_, To work, toil, labour, or attend - as a servant. - _Ah-too-ska-thog-gan_, An attendant, or servant. - _Asse-che_, Also, Besides. - _Ke-we-Assas-su-min_, You mean to deceive me. - _Ah-tah-mah_, Very often repeated. - _Ke-we-Ath-the-mah-hittin_, I mean to be troublesome to you. - _As-cow_, Sometimes. - _Aquay-thakk_, or _Aqua-thoch_, The first time. - _Athee-mis-sue_, Ill-natured, Hard to please. - _Assus-kee_, Earth, or mould. - _Abby-tow_, Half. - _Abby-tham-oo-tuch_, Middle of a canoe. - _An-nis-coo-tah-pan_, A knot of any kind of line. - _Ah-tie_, Fur. - _Ah-spee-che_, In the meanwhile, whilst. - _An-nouch_, Just now. - - _Che-pai-tuck-guow_, Blue. - _Cow-ish-she-moo_, Go to bed. - _Ne-we-Cow-ish-e-moon_, I want to go to bed. - _Cow-wow_, Rough. - _Chim-mah-sin_, Short. - _Cat-tah_, Conceal it. - _Ke-gah-Cah-twah-tin_, I will conceal it from you. - _Co-ke-oo_, Dive. - _Cup-pah-she-moo_, To bathe. - _Cap-pah-she-mow_, To boil meat. - _Chick-ka-mah_, Yes. - _Che-powee_, Narrow. - _Copan-na-sue_, A common man, - _Cooke-kay_, Always. - _Cock-ke-thoue_, All of them. - _Che-che_, Finger. - _Che-che-coom_, Wart. - _Che-che-kin_, To scratch. - _Chah-kiet-tin-now_, A hill, Rising ground. - _Cas-pow_, Brittle. - _Chup-pah-shish_, Below, Beneath. - _Cup-pow-a-thoue_, Leaving off paddling at the - approach of winter. - - _Ke-Chim-mah-cah-pow-wis-in_, You are short. - _Ke-Co-pah-chemoon_, You disappoint yourself. - _Cos-see-hah_, To wipe, To rub out. - _Cos-see-quan_, A towel. - _Cos-sah-higgan_, The implement used in rubbing out - any thing. - _Che-man_, Name of a canoe. - _Check-a-gam_, Close to the shore. - - _Es-kah_, N.B. In recounting a dream, this - word is much made use of. - _Ethin-artick_, A small kind of pine. - _Es-skun_, Home. - _Ethe-e-coke_, Striving. - _Eth-e-coke-queth-e-mow_, Strive. - _Eth-the-boak-cow_, Wise, Sensible. - _Numma-Ethe-boak-cow_, Foolish, Not wise. - _Ethin-nut-took_, In reality. - _Ethin-nut-to_, Common, The most common kind of - any thing. - _Ethee-pin-nay_, Truly. - _Egah-waudge-no-gun_, Any thing almost imperceptible. - _Egah-pittah_, Stop a little. - _Esqua_, Presently. - _Es-pee-hum-moak_, Flying high. - _Ethin-ne-woo_, Living, Still alive. - _En-coo-se-queth-e-moon_, I think myself a conjurer, or - godlike. - _Espim-mick_, Above. - _E-sput-tin-now_, Steep; or rising ground. - _Es-pum-me-seek_, A little above. - _Es-qui-an-mek_, The end. - - _Ke-Guy-as-sues-stah-tin_, I will hide myself from you. - _Gay-tow-woo_, Reflection, To reflect. - _Gay-tak-tin-e-thick_, The whole number. - _Gay-te-un_, It happened to you. - _Gay-te-an_, It happened to me. - _Guy-tut_, You to him. - _Guy-tat_, He to him. - _Guy-tow-wut-oo-punny_, You said so to him. - _Guy-tow-wat-oo-punny_, He said so. - _Guy-tack-oo-punny_, He said so of him. - _Guy-tisk-oo-punny_, He said so of you. - _Guy-sus-takee_, At the same place. - - _Hay-wee_, A word of notice. - _Hay-way_, Have you found it—inanimate. - _Hay-waw_, Have you found it—animate. - _How-wee-gas-take_, Not exposed to the ray of the sun. - _Hook-e-moow_, A Chief. - _Hay-e-tus-see-chick_, As many as there are. - _Huth-thee-wah-ka-kin_, A word of surprise. - - _I-es-cue_, Tired. - _I-es-coo-tai-oo_, Tired with walking. - _I-es-coos-se-man_, Tired with paddling. - _Iam-me_, Talk, or Speak. - _Ith-e-cah-pah-low_, Run away, Not to be found. - - _Kit-Ithe-cah-hittan_, I have eat or drunk without saving - you any, or without asking you to - partake. - _Is-see-boy-tayoo_, To set off by land. - _Kiska-tow-a-cow_, A high bank. - _Ke-shich_, The blue sky. - _Ke-shi-cow_, Day. - _Ke-too_, Any noise made by an animate being - _Ke-too-mah-gun_, or Any noise made by an inanimate - _Ke-too-mah-gusk_, object. - _Kis-sway-way_, Talk loud. - _Egah-Kis-sway-way_, Don’t talk loud. - _Kis-tuck-gah-much_, Main land. - _Kin-wow_, Long. - _Ke-che_, Equal to you. - _Ke-hitch-chu_, Any thing grand. - _Kin-no-koo-mow_, A long lake. - _Kis-ki-ow-wow_, Deep water. - _Kisshe-as-tun_, Fast sailing. - _Kishee-puthen_, Any thing moving fast. - _Kisshe-wahk_, Nigh at hand. - _Kissas-tow_, Middling. - _Ka-ke-che-moo_, Insignificance. - _Kis-steth-e-moo_, Proud, Haughty, Opinionated. - _Ke-Kuck-quay-che-met-tin_, I ask you. - _Kuck-quay-che-that-hit-took_, Strive to excel each other. - _Kuck-qua-che-pus-ke-that-hit-took_, To support a spirit of emulation. - _Koos-coon_, To awaken. - _Koos-coon-ne-gan_, Awaken me. - _Kas-ses-cow_, The present opportunity. - _Kis-tin-natch_, Perhaps. - _Kis-pin_, When (future). - _Ke-kah-nah-gun_, Plain to be seen. - _Ke-too-his-ca_, Calling like a goose. - _Ke-ke-toon_, You did speak. - _Kis-scut-tah_, Cut it in two, (a stick or piece - of wood.) - _Kis-scut-ta-higgan_, A stump, the remaining part of a - tree cut down. - _Ke-hoo-tay-oo_, To visit. - _Ke-hich-coo_, Any thing escaping. - _Kith-the-pah_, Be quick, Make haste. - _Kit-tis-kin-now_, To let fall. - _Ke-mo-he-how_, You teaze it. - _Ke-ket-te-mah-how_, You are cruel to him. - _Ne-Kit-te-mah-tin-na-wow_, I feel for him. - _Kuth-ke-tai-wap-pit_, Black eyes. - _Ke-kick_, Your house or cabin. - _Kis-pin-nut-tow_, To earn, To come at, To purchase. - _Kut-che-wap-pum-mut_, That you should see it, was the - _Go-pa-she-wug-geet_, reason we brought it. - _Ke-thas-kah-che-moo_, To tell falsehood. - _Kis-sha-wah-tis-sue_, Good-natured. - _Ke-wak-tis-sue_, Friendless. - _Kis-kah-mut-tin-now_, Steep hill. - _Kis-kah-pis-cow_, - _Ke-satch_, Immediately. - _Ke-satch-ut-tow-way-win_, Debt, or buying before you intend - to pay. - _Kee-sin-ne-gun_, A dressed skin. - _Kee-sin-nah_, Dress it. - _Kis-sis-sah_, To warm. To make warm. - _Kee-sis-sah_, To cook, either by boiling or - roasting. - _Ky-as-en-equn_, Any thing old or worn out. - _Kusketh-etum-etah-goos_, A person talking impatiently. - _Ka-ke-che-moo_, Boasting, To boast. - _Ke-kas-sis-po-min_, You speak ironically. - _Ke-Ka-pah-tis-sin_, You are not clever or acute. - _Ke-they-e-tou_, Making a noise like scratching. - _Kis-quay-can_, A fool. - - _Manito_, God. - _Mus-cow-wow_, or _Mus-cow-wis-sue_, Strong. - _Ne-Me-thou_, I gave it to him. - _Ne-Meeth-ick_, He gave it to me. - _Ne-Meeth-ick-gowin_, It was given to me. - _Ne-Meeth-ick-wuck_, They gave it to me. - _Ne-Meeth-thou-uck_, I gave it to them. - _Ne-Meeth-thee-ammet_, He or she gave it to us. - _Ne-Meeth-ick-coo-nan_, It was given to us by him. - _Ke-Meeth-ick_, It was given to you. - _Ke-Meeth-it-tin_, I give it to you, or I gave it to - you. - _Owee-nah-gah-Me-thisk_, Who gave it to you? - _Owee-nah-ke-Meeth-ich-coo_, - _Owee-nah-wah-Mee-thut_, Who do you design to give it to? - _Owee-nah-wah-Mee-thut_, Who does he intend to give it to? - _Owee-nah-gah-Mee-that_, Who did he give it to? - _Owee-nah-gah-Mee-thick-coot_, Who was it given to? - _Owee-na-hah-Mee-thick-coot_, Who? - _Mee-thick-coot_, Any thing given from one person to - another. - _Mee-thee-coot_, Hairy nose. - _Mee-this-tow-wan_, Beard. - _Mee-the-chap_, Hairy face. - _Mith-coo_, Blood. - _Mith-coo-sue_, or _Mith-gwow_, Red. - _Mah-tow-wee_, Poor flesh, Any thing not fat. - _Mah-Mah-tow-wee-wick_, Ditto, (plural.) - _Mee-gee-wap_, A tent, when erected. - _Mut-too-gaph_, Where a tent formerly stood. - _Min-nis-tick_, An island. - _Min-nay-he-wat-tun_, Point of land. - _Mess-kaik_, A plain, or swamp. - _Mis-sick-a-mow_, A large lake. - _Matoon-eth-e-chiggan_, The mind. - _Musqua_, Black bear. - _Oo-sow-we-Musqua_, Brown ditto. - _Missee-musqua_, Grizzlier, great bear. - _Wah-pisk_, White bear. - _Minna-hig_, Large pine. - _Metuse_, Poplar. - _Mithqua-pim-mook_, Red willow. - _Mun-na-win_, Barren country, not plentiful. - _Me-chim-is-skum-my-gon_, A country abounding in provision. - _Ke-Meth-tho-tho-tow-wow_, You use him well. - _N’ Ne-mith-too-too-lakk_, He uses me well. - _Ne-me-tah-tow_, I regret the loss without crying. - _Ne-mow-wee-cah-tow_, I regret the loss with crying. - _Missa-gow_, To arrive. - _Missa-gow-uck_, They are arrived, or I arrived. - _Missa-gy-ack_, We have arrived. - _Missa-gy-eg_, You arrived (plural.) - _Ne-Missa-gan-nau_, I and my companions arrived. - _Muthch-e-puthue_, Any thing moving slowly. - _Math-e-puthue_, Any thing that does not go well, - as a gun that does not throw its - shot well. - _Mach-wange_, At that time. - _Mack-was-kah_, To overtake. - _Mah-that-tun_, Bad. - _Me-tho-was-sin_, Good. - _Me-tho-sis-sue_, Handsome - _Me-tho-nah-gun_, Good-looking. - _Much-il-nah-gun_, Ordinary. - _Much-ethe-lah-gun_, Disagreeable. - _Metho-tah-gun_, Agreeable talking. - _Ne-Meth-thoot-tow-wow_, I dislike talking. - _Ne-Much-in-nak-wow_, I think it ugly. - _Ne-Mith-thoo-now-wow_, I think it handsome - _My-itch-che_, Exactly. - _N’ Ne-Mith-thoo-wah-tan_, I am happy. - _Ne-Mah-mus-kah-tain_, I am surprised. - _Ma-muh-lah-coo-sue_, Proud. - _Me-tow-wee_, Longing for any thing eatable. - _N’me-tow-with-e-moon_, I am longing, or I am a longer. - _Mun-nus-qua_, To make ready with a gun. - _Me-tho-mah-qun_, Sweet smell. - _Me-tho-gow_, Fine, Soft, Mossy. - _Misse-hen_, To occasion a difference between - two persons - _Ke-Misse-ken_, You have injured me in the opinion - of such a person. - _Muck-coo-sa_, To feast. - _N’gah-muck-coo-san_, I will feast, or I will make a - feast. - _Mahtin-nah-wayoo_, To divide, To share. - _Mah-hum_, To go before the current. - _Mah-kis-cum_, To walk from inland to the shore. - _Mo-tway-tayoo_, or _Matway-way_, Report of a gun. - _Mun-nah-che-tow_, To spare, or be frugal. - _Mun-nah-che-how_, To avoid offending. - _Ke-mun-nah-che-hittan_, I do not wish to offend you. - _Ke-gah-mow-wee-mittan_, I shall hurt your feelings. - _Moo-schuck_, Always. - _Mis-cow-wow_, To find. - _Mus-cow-wow_, Hard. - _Misshe-way_, The whole. - _Ne-moo-see-how_, I feel it inwardly or outwardly, - _Ne-mee-scoo-nau_, I feel it with my hand. - _Ne-moo-see-tan_, I feel its motion. - _Mis-ske-shick_, Eyes. - _Mith-quah-pit_, Red eyes. - _Mis-kee-shick-cake_, The face. - _Missah-gow_, To arrive by water. - _Missa-gow-ma-as-tun_, To arrive by sailing as a ship. - _Min-a-ho_, To provide provender. - _In-ne-tah-mina-ho_, Applied to a good hunter, - signifies he is not deficient in - providing for his family. - _Nut-to-min-nah-ho_, A man in the employ of a hunter. - _Mus-hu-kee_, Physic. - _Mus-cow-wun_, A strong mind, A strong opinion. - _Ne-Me-tay-win_, I am a conjurer. - _Ne-Me-tay-with-emoon_, I think myself a conjurer. - _Ne-Mun-to-win_, or I am godlike. - _Ne-mun-ne-to-win_, - _Ne-Me-tow-wan_, I long for it. - _Mah-that-chis-la-hay-oo_, Ill-natured, Quarrelsome, - Hard-hearted. - _Ne-much-ethe-mow_, I have a bad opinion of him. - _Miss-sa-gy-akk_, We arrive by water. - _Mis-sa-gy-eg_, You arrive by water. - _Mis-sa-gow-wuck_, They arrive by water. - _Mis-sah-gow_, To arrive. - _Mis-sah-gan_, I arrive. - _Mis-sah-gan-nan_, We arrive. - _Ne-Mis-sah-gah-nan_, We arrived. - _Ne-Mis-sah-gan_, I arrived. - _Ke-Mis-sah-gan_, You arrived. - _Gah-Mis-sah-gy-akk_, When we arrived. - _Gah-Mis-sah-gy-eg_, When you arrived. - _Mis-sah-gy-akk-ke_, When we arrive, (speaking to a - person not of the party.) - _Mis-sah-gy-akk-coo_, When we arrive, (speaking to one - of the party.) - _Mis-sa-gy-eg-co_, When you arrive. - _Mis-sah-gy-ahny_, When I arrive. - _Moos-tus-cum-meek_, The ground, The earth. - _Moo-cheek_, On the ground. - _Mah-chis-tun_, Breaking up of the river-ice. - _Ke-Me-me-shick-ke-tin_, You are large. - _Ke-Mitho-nah-goo-sin_, You are handsome. - _Ke-Much-ee-nah-goo-sin_, You are ugly. - _Ke-Mitho-nah-tin_, You appear handsome to me. - _Ke-Mitho-nah-k_, He thinks you handsome. - _Ke-Much-nak-tin_, I think you ugly. - _Ke-Much-e-hah-k_, He thinks you ugly. - _Mah-nah-goo-tee_, Mind if it is not so. - _My-ak-quam_, Mind if I do not, (a threat.) - _Muchee_, Indifferent, Not good, Not - pleasing. - _Moi-see_, Much. - _Mis-tay-hay_, A great quantity. - _Mis-te-sue_, Scalded or burnt. - _Mes-tin-nah_, To expend, Expended. - _Mes-tun-mick_, The white skin that is between the - bark and body of a tree. - _Me-sah-hum_, To patch, To mend by patching. - _Me-sah-higgan_, The patch. - _May-che-moose_, A little. - _May-che-how_, To extirpate. - _Ne-May-hay-pit-chin_, To move toward the sea-shore. - _Muck-co-to-pay-oo_, A stomach that can bear a great - quantity of liquor. - _Missina-higgan_, Writing. - _Maith-waith-e-mai-oo_, To be very careful of any person. - _Minne-quog-gan_, A vessel used for drinking, A pot. - _Metch-chis-kun_, A fishing-wire. - _Ne-Meth-oon_, Handy, Not aukward. - _Mitho-wo-gass_, A length of time. - _Mah-no-kay_, To build a house, To erect a tent. - - _Ne-that-mis-sue_, Weak. - _Nip-as-cue_, Applied to a great sleeper. - _Nippow_, He is a-sleep, or Sleep. - _Un-too-we-nip-pow_, Go to sleep. - _Tan-tee-wah-nip-pee-an_, Where do you want to sleep? - _Tan-ta-gah-nip-pe-an_, Where shall I sleep? - _Nee-kee-nan_, Our dwelling, or tent. - _Nut-toot-tow-in_, Listen to me. - _Nai-ow_, A point. - _Nai-ah-pisk_, Rocky point. - _Nuh-pow-wis_, A word of surprise. - _Nuggy-nah-gun_, Land in sight at a great distance. - _Nuthin_, To the north. - _Nah-me-win_, To the south. - _Na-puck-ka-see-tuck_, Silver pine. - _Nepisee_, Willow. - _Nis-sten-ne-gaw-win_, A landing-place. - _Ke-Nay-cut-teth-emoon_, You grieve. - _Nuggisk_, For a little time. - _Nug-gisk-cow-wow_, Two walking parties meeting on a - journey. - _Nuck-ka-wow_, To meet by water. - _Ne-hee_, Right. - _Ne-ach-toa-win_, Aukward. - _N’ Nah-qut-tick_, He left me behind. - _N’ Ni-hah-tow-wis-scane_, It does not fit well, or It fits - aukwardly. - _N’ Ne-he-scane_, It fits me right. - _Ne-ha-tow-win-nah-gun_, Aukward appearance. - _Nip-pue_, Dead. - _Nip-pee_, Water. - _Na-Nip-patchick_, or When they were asleep. - _Nip-pat-twow_, - _Nas-pit-too-tah_, To imitate, - _Nus-pit-tahk_, Likeness. - _Nogun_, In sight. - _Nah-Nah-lay-oo_, Trembling, Shivering, Shaking, &c. - _Nah-nah-tay-we-nah-gun_, Any thing that appears to shake. - _Nah-cow-we-nah-gun_, Variety. - _No-che-chig-gay_, To work at any job, &c. - _Na-mah_, That. - _Nut-toom_, Tell him to come here. - _Num-mum-ne-kee-toon_, I did not speak. - _Numma-no-che-etwan_, I never said so. - _Numma-ne-ke-e-twan_, _Nah-pait_, I cannot say it. - _Nutha-hum_, To go against the current. - _Nut-too-tum-wow_, To ask for it. - _Nut-tah-aes-cum_, To walk inland from the sea-shore. - _Nee-shoo_, Two. - _Ne-shoo-stoo-wow_, A double shot, killing two at a - time. - _Nub-but-lay-stow-in_, A hut with a back and two sides, - open in front. - _No-tum-me-hick_, I am puzzled or plagued by him. - _Nay-pay-catch_, Moderate, Not in the extreme - either way. - _Ne-gan_, Going before. - _Nay-pay-quan_, To break one’s fast. - _Nay-pay-kah-hoo-soo_, To break one’s fast with the - produce of his hunt. - _Nut-to-ko-how_, To administer physic. - _Ne-mutch-che-the-wa-sin_, I am disappointed. - _Ne-mow-win_, Provisions for a journey. - _N’ Ne-ne-mah-hick_, Goods entrusted to the disposal of - another. - _No-che-how_, To work at. - _N’ Gah-no-chi-chiggan_, I will employ myself. - _No-sin-na-wow_, To go after any thing. - _No-hak-wow_, To go after any thing on the water. - _No-at-tick-way_, The act of going after deer with a - canoe. - _Not-attick-way_, Hunting deer by land or water. - _Ke-Nah-nah-toke-kat-how_, You tease it. - _Nup-puch-is-sue_, Flat, Thin. - _Ne-Nut-tay-hay-pitchin_, To move inland. - _Nis-to-pay-oo_, Not having a fill. - _N’ Nis-to-pan_, I have not had my fill. - _Ke-Nus-coo-mittan_, I give you my consent. - _Ke-Nus-coo-moon_, You have given your consent. - _No-chim-mick_, From the water in the woods. - _Nass_, or _Nah-tah_, Fetch it, or Go for it. - _Noo-tow-wee_, My father. - _Nick-gow-wee_, My mother. - _Noo-tah_, Father. - _Nic-cah_, Mother. - _Nis-slais_, My elder brother. - _Oo-slais_, His or her elder brother. - _Ne-seem_, My younger brother or sister. - _Ne-mis_, My elder sister. - _N’che-waham_, My brother. - _Ne-che-san_, My nearest relation, as brother or - sister. - _Ne-shisk_, My uncle. - _No-kum-mis_, My father-in-law. - _N-to-shisk_, My mother-in-law. - _Nis-se-coos_, My aunt or step-mother. - _No-cum_, My grandmother. - _Ne-moo-soom_, My grandfather. - _No-sis-sim_, My grand-son or grand-daughter. - _Nis-tim_, My niece. - _Kis-gim-mis_, My cousin—female. - _Ne-tim_, My cousin—male. - _Nees-tow_, My brother-in-law. - _N-cha-coose_, A relation on the woman’s side - only. - _N-teet-tow-wow_, The relationship between two - people whose children are united - in marriage. - _No-tassuee_, Good for nothing. - _Ke-Ninne-ke-twan_, You are in a hurry. - - _Oo-ne-gaph_, Carrying-place. - _Oo-skah-ta-gow_, or _Oo-shisk_, Fur. - _Oo-skun_, Bone. - _Oo-tay-hee_, The heart. - _Oo-tay_, Boiling. - And, _See-cah-che-wut-tay-oo_, Boiling over. - _Oo-mah-moggah_, This too, or This also. - _Oo-mah_, This. - _Oo-tahk_, Going behind. - _Oa-sow-we-quay_, Brown face. - _Owanah-n’gah-nut-to-mine-nah-hook_, Who will hunt for me? - _Oo-tah-coo-sin_, Evening. - _Ow-wee-how_, To lend. - _Oo-wee-hah-sue_, To borrow. - _Oo-tee_, and _Oo-see_, Names of a canoe. - _Oo-tahk-athuck_, Stern of a canoe. - _O-ask-kah-pus-ke-layoo_, - _Oo-sken-equm_, Any thing new or not much used. - _Oo-scooh-tim_, A beaver dam. - _Oth-this-sah_, To cut anything out, as shoes, &c. - - _Ne-Pah-wah-min_, I dream. - _Pemee_, Fat, melted and prepared. - _Pus-coo-na-oo_, Fat animal. - _Pis-seth-che-hin_, Listen to me. - _Ke-pay-tow-in_, You hear me. - _Ke-Pay-tartin_, I hear you. - _N’ Ne-Pay-tah-soon_, I hear myself. - _Ke-Pay-tahk_, You are heard. - _Ke-Pay-tahk-coo-wow_, They hear you, (plural.) - _Ke-Pay-tahk-coo-wow-uck_, - _Pow-is-stick_, A waterfall. - _Pe-chow_, A long distance by land. - _Pe-tahk-ho-gun_, A long distance by water. - _Pe-tis-quon-my-gow_, A long distance by ice. - _Pus-quas-qua-ow_, A hummock of wood. - _Pay-soo-sin_, A short distance. - _Pim-mith-e-hick-oo-mow_, A lake broader than long. - _Pah-kahk_, A ghost, or skeleton. - _Pow-woggan_, Morpheus, or the God of Dreams. - _Pe-wee-tog-gun_, A shooting-place; _i.e._ a - waterfall, practicable for boats - to go down. - _Parqua-sin_, Shoal water. - _Parquow_, Dry, or little water. - _Pim-mah-gam-mah-hummock_, Canoes crossing a lake or river - obliquely. - _N’ Ne-Pee-kis-curtain_, I am uneasy. - _Pee-kis-kah-tethe-tah-gun_, The case is melancholy. - _Ke-Pait-twah-tin_, I have brought it you. - _Ke-Pait-tah-hoo-twah-tin_, I have brought it you by water. - _Ke-Pait-lah-hoo-tow-in_, You have brought me something. - _Pemass-sue_, To sail. - _Pimiss-scow_, To paddle. - _Peen-me-gun_, Crooked-grained wood. - _Peemow_, Crooked. - _Pah-tuce_, Afterwards. - _N’ Ne-Puk-kis-cah-tam_, I am unhappy. - _Pis-sin-nah-tis-sue_, Mischievous. - _Pus-ke-thahk_, To excel, He is excelled. - _Ne-Pus-ke-thak-gan_, I have excelled. - _Pay-pay-me-tah-che-moo_, To crawl. - _Pem-oo-tah_, To walk. - _Pe-mo-at-tah-muck_, To ride. - _Pim-me-thow_, To fly. - _Pepoon_, Winter. - _Pepurisue_, To winter. Also the name of a - winter-bird. - _N’-Pe-pun-is-sin_, I wintered. - _Pe-mah-tah-gas-gun_, To go on the ice. - _Pah-mah-ta-gow_, To go into the water—deep. - _Pah-coo-pay_, To walk ditto—shoal. - _Pay-coo-pay_, To come up after diving. - _Pan-nis-swow_, To split meat. - _Pus-sah-wow_, To split wood, and work it with a - hatchet. - _N’gah-Pus-sa-higgan_, I will go and sit down and split - some wood. - _Pah-pe-tues-is-se-nah-gun_, Variety. - _Pus-sah-qua-pue_, To shut the eyes. - _Pus-pah-pue_, To look through, or peep. - _Pus-pah-pue-win_, A window. - _Pun-mis-cah-tayoo_, To go to a house any distance in - winter. - _Puah-pee-tway-tin_, Missing fire. - _Pwas-tow-we-mah-tway-tayoo_, Hanging fire. - _Pwas-towe-we_, Tedious, Not quick. - _Pah-ke-tit-tow_, To let fall. - _Pay-catch_, Slow. - _Pet-tah_, Thirst. - _Pah-too-mah_, By-and-bye. - _Pah-pue_, Laugh. - _Pah-pisk_, A great laughter. - _Pah-pin-nah-ne-woo_, Very laughable. - _Ke-Pah-pe-pin_, You laugh at me. - _Ke-Pah-pi-hittan_, I laugh at you. - _Poo-see_, To set off by water. - _Pim-mah-hum-moak_, Flying towards the sea-shore. - _Pemah-tis-sue_, Living, Still alive, Longevity. - _Pe-mah-tis-se-win_, Any thing that promotes life. - _Pe-mah-che-how_, To bring to life. - _Peth-coo-wow_, To penetrate. - _Puck-queth-qua-sue_, To let blood. - _Pah-coo-moo_, To vomit. - _Pah-puthe-tow_, To bring up any thing accidentally - swallowed. - _Pis-se-quah-tis-sue_, Mischievous. - _Pee-kis-quay_, To sing, or make a noise. - _Pah-mit-tis-saw-wow_, To run after any thing. - _Peway-pisk_, Iron, Almost all kinds of metal. - _Pah-pus-qua-hum_, Breaking-up of lake-ice. - _Ka-Pah-tis-sue_, Dull, Not clever. - _Pis-us_, To doubt. - _Pee-tah_, Any thing that frustrates a design. - _Pit-tah_, Stop. - _Pitche-coo_, To move about from one place to - another. - _Ne-Pit-chin_, I have moved. - _Ne-Pus-cay-wan_, I parted. - _Ne-Pus-cay-pitchin_, To part company, A party taking - different routes. - _Pus-ca_, To part with a companion by ditto. - _Pus-cay-tah_, To tear with the mouth. - _Pah-pow-wah-hah_, or _Poo-two-wah_, Shake it. - _Pah-ke-puthee_, A swelling. - _Pay-nass_, or _Pach-nass_, Come for it. - - _Qui-usk_, Straight, In a direct line. - _Ne-Qui-usk-queth-eten_, I have fixed my mind, or come to a - determination. - _Ke-Qui-usk-co-mitten_, Candidly. - _Qua-pah-kay_, or _Qua-pah-hah_, Dip a drink. - _Qua-pah-hum-mow-in_, Dip me a drink. - _Qua-pah-hum-nah-sue_, Dip a drink yourself. - _Qua-pah-hum-mow-win-nan_, Dip us a drink. - _Ques-ke-tai_, The other side. - _Ke-Qui-ske-queth-e-tin_, You have come to a determination. - - _Sepun_, Strong. - _Sepen-nay-oo_, Strong in health, Not easy killed. - _Sow-with-coo-sue_, Bloody. - _Oo-Sow-wow_, Yellow. - _Oo-Sow-us-quow_, Green. - _Ta-na-Sin-ne-cow-take_, What is the name of it? - _Soo-sow-wow_, Smooth. - _Sug-goo_, Thick, One after another. - _Sug-gow_, Thicket of woods. - _Sack-ka-higgan_, A lake. - _Ke-we-Sah-wan-ne-how_, You do not use him well. - _Sem-mahk_, At first. - _Sack-ke-how_, I love. - _Sacke-how-e-wah-bah-ne_, If I had loved. - _Sack-ke-how-wahk-oo-punny_, If we had loved, If they had loved. - _Sack-ke-hitch-che_, If she loves her or him. - _Sack-ke-huck-ke_, If I love her. - _Sack-ke-hisk-kee_, - _Sack-ke-hit-too-uck_, They love each other. - _Sack-ke-hit-too-nan_, Loving each other. - _Sack-kee_, Love. - _Sack-ke-hin_, Love me. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hitten_, I love you. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hick_, He loves you, or You are loved by - him. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hick-wuck_, They love you. - _Ke-Sack-ke-how_, You love him. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hich-coo-wow_, He loves you both. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hittan-now-wow_, I love you both. - _Ke-Sack-ke-hin-now-wow_, You both love him. - _Ke-wee-Se-gan-nis-qua-pis-sin_, You want to pull my hair. - _Se-gan-nis-qua-pis_, Pull his hair. - _See-tap-pah-quan_, A tent made with leather. - _Soak-ethe-tum_, Obstinate. - _Sa-sah-gis-sue_, Stingy. - _Suthe-an_, Any kind of coin, A medal. - _Suthe-an-ahpish_, The metal of which any coin is - made. - _Soo-Sow-wah-pisk_, Any smooth stone. - _Sepah_, Underneath. - _Sepayow_, Hollow, like a bridge. - _Sa-cooleh_, It must be so. - _Ke-Sack-cooch-e-hitten_, I overpower you. - _Sah-puaw-pow-way_, Wet through. - _Sah-paw-pwow-we-nah-gwun_, Any thing that has a wet look. - _Sah-puaw-pum-e-nah-gwun_, Transparent. - _See-coo-win_, Spittle. - _Soake-sue_, Strong wood. - _Sag-ga-wow_, Narrow. - - _Tan-na-twe-un_, What do you say? - _Tan-na-tway-un_, What do I say? - _Tan-na-twit_, What does he or she say? - _Tan-natwit-twow_ or What do they say? - _Tanna-twitch-ick_, - _Tibbis-cow_, Night. - _N’Tit-tah-pah-tain_, I dreamed. - _Tah-nah-twan-nick_, What is the meaning of it? - _Ta-bith-e-tah_, _Tho-theth-e-tah_, You direct. - _N’Took-e-moam_, My chief. - _N’Tut-tah-min-na-wow_, I overtook or came up with him. - _Tah-nah-the-coke_, What distance? - _Thah-than-nah_, To swim. - _Thow-we-nah-gun_, A long distance, but in sight - sometimes. - _Ke-took-e-maam-in-now_, Our chief. - _N’Tas-tah-gat-tis-soon_, I think I am not sufficient for - the task. - _Tho-is-cow_, Soft. - _Tho-skeg-gan_, Soft skin, Well dressed. - _Tay-poy_, Call. - _Tay-pois_, Call him. - _To-kin_, To open. - _To-kap-pue_, To open the eyes. - _Ke-Tah-hah-ee-mow_, You adopt him. - _Tah-nah-tah-co-mut_, In what line of relationship do - you hold him? - _Tan-na-tah-co-misk_, In what line of relationship does - he hold you? - _Tah-nait-te-gowan_, What is my name? or, What am I - called? - _Tah-nait-te-gow-we-en_, What is your name? - _Tah-na-sin-ne-cau-soo-yen_, - _Tah-na-sin-ne-caw-swa-an_, What is my name? - _Tah-na-sin-ne-caw-soot_, What is it’s name? - _Tah-hutch-e-tow-in-nah_, Tools, Utensils. - _N’-Tah-but-teth-emow_, I think him, or it, useful. - _Tow-weg_, The middle of a skin. - _Ke-Tis-qua-how-uck_, You killed a great many. - _Ke-Tis-coo-now_, You left some. - _Tick-cuck_, All of them. - _Tah-to_, The number. - _Than-tah-to_, What number? - _Than-a-tus-se-chick_, - _Tahn-a-tah-tin-e-thick_, What number were there? - _Tahn-as-takee_, or _Tan-a-koo-tu_, What of that? - _Tahn-a-te-theme-un_, What do you think of me? - _Tahn-a-teshe-tum-mun_, What do I think of it? - _Tahn-a-teshe-tum-man_, What do I think? - _Tahn-a-teshe-tum-me-u’onny_, Whatever you think or have thought. - _Tuck-ke-coom_, Phlegm. - _Tethe-coom_, Nostril. - _Tuck-oo-sin_, To arrive by land. - _Tah-pa-tah-hum-moak_, Flying low. - _Tabeth-a-way_, Real. - _Ta-bith-was-sue_, Possessed of property. - _Tah-ti-sue_, The behaviour of a person. - _To-is-pis-sue_, Good-natured. - _Tus-swow_, Straight. - _Tah-cuoch_, Above, Uppermost. - _Tus-tow-widge_, Middle, Between. - _Ke-keppah-Tow-a-gan_, Your ears are sloped. - _Tah-but-tis-sue_, Useful. - _Tah-na-tah-but-tis-sue_, For what use? - _N’-Tah-coo-sin_, I am ill. - _Ke-Tith-e-wee-cah-pow-wis-tow-wow_, You are taller than him. - _Ke-Tap-pe-se-si-sin_, You are little. - _Ke-Tay-ack-quam-ethe-mittan_, I have a great opinion of him. - _Tay-poo-pay-oo_, Satisfied with drinking. - _N’-Tay-poo-pan_, I am full of liquor. - _Tip-pah-hum_, To pay, To measure. - _Tip-pah-higgan_, A measure, A rule. - _Ke-Tow-we-hah-soon_, You borrow. - _Ke-Tul-tow-wan_, You trade. - _Kit-Tut-tah-mittan_, I trade with you. - _Ke-Tus-tum-mah-tin_, I hinder you. - _Ke-Tit-twes-tum-mah-tin_, I am your interpreter. - _Ta-ow-wedge_, A word used by way of confirmation. - _Ta-tow-wedge_, The middle. - _Tow-weidge_, Far from the shore. - - _Us-to-gum-moo_, Still water. - _Utch-chahk_, A star. - _Un-ne-mah_, That - _Un-to-wappun_, Make use of your eyes, Look well - for him. - _Uh-tah-meek_, Underneath. - _Uh-tah-mus-cum-meek_, Under ground. - _Us-kee_, A country. - _Us-kee-ah_, Moss - _Us-keek-wah_, Lead - _Us-keek_, A kettle. - _Us-too-thoo_, To build canoes. - _Us-tay-boo_, Sober. - _Us-pah-che-gun_, An ingredient or sauce, as gravy - to beef. - _Us-put-tis-ewin_, Payment. - _Us-put-tis-sin_, Pay me. - _Uttow-way_, To trade or barter. - _Uttah-muck_, Inside. - _Um-misk_, A beaver. - _Um-misk-wy-an_, A beaver’s skin. - _Us-skah-tie_, A green fur-skin, or undressed - skin. - _Up-pwooy_, Paddle. - - _Wah-ha-wun_, Weak. - _Wappun_, Daylight. - _Wappas-sue_, An early riser, One who rises by - daylight. - _Wee-kee_, What used to be. - _Weggee-moggan_, Mate, (a person that lives in the - same tent.) - _Wiggee_, Place of abode. - _Nis-tais-Weggee-mah-gun_, He lives with my elder brother. - _Weggee-wow_, Their dwelling. - _Wethin_, Fat in its natural state. - _Wee-thin-noo_, Fat (as a fat animal), Fat meat. - _Wah-thou_, A great distance. - _Wah-thoue_, A hollow or vacuum. - _Wappow_, Narrow part of a lake, where the - two shores almost meet. - _Wap-pick-oo-mow_, A narrow lake. - _Wow-we-ick-oo-mow_, A round lake. - _Wappusk_, A white bear. - _Wah-ke-nog-gan_, Jumper. - _Wus-qui_, Birch. - _Ke-Wan-nay-too-tow-wow_, You do not use him well. - _Wah-gow_, Crooked. - _Wee-lah_, Tell it. - _Wee-tum-mow_, Tell him. - _Wee-rup-pow_, _Ne-Wee-rup-pan_, He wants to sleep. - _We-thun-e-taggay_, Disjointing and cutting up an - animal. - _We-thun-e-how_, To cut up, To disjoint. - _Walhow-nah-gun_, Any thing seen far off. - _Wee-cheg-gun_, Stink. - _Wo-waudge_, Also. - _Kee-Wappin_, You see. - _Wy-ais_, Something. - _Ke-Wah-co-mow_, You call him your relation. - _Ke-We-way-a-se-min_, You hinted to deceive me. - _We-co-to_, To feast. - _We-co-too-nah-me-woo_, Feasting. - _Weeth_, Name it, Mention its name. - _Wee-this-sue_, Mention your own name. - _Was-cah_, Around. - _Was-cah-higgan_, A house. - _Was-keig_, The edge of a skin. - _We-ug-ge-tow_, Not to be frugal, To be wasteful. - _Wun-ny-hov_, To loose, Lost. - _Ne-Wan-eth-etum-mow-mick_, He makes me at a loss what to say. - _Wan-eth-etum_, He is quite at a loss. - _Was-tai-ab-bel_, Light eyes. - _We-the-gre-quay_, Dirty face. - _Wow-we-ec-quay_, Round face. - _Wow-we-eg-se-nah-goo-sue_, Droll looking. - _Wo-we-et-tis-sue_, A funny person. - _Ke-Wo-we-ase-hittan_, I was jesting with you. - _N’-Wo-we-etwan_, I spoke it in jest. - _Wee-kee_, Accustomed. - _Wutchee_, A hill. - _Wah-gis-cow_, Any thing that bends well. - _Ne-Wap-pah-tin_, I saw it. - _Ne-Wap-puh-tith-ick_, It was shown to me. - _Was-dis-sue_, To appear bright with the - reflection of the sun. - _Wah-thoue_, Hollow, like an empty nut-shell. - _Wow-we-ah-sue_, The full moon. - _Wow-we-a-sue_, Round. - _Was-cum-mis-sue_, Not intoxicated, Sober. - _Wus-kitch_, Outside. - _Wes-kutch_, Formerly. - _Wee-sin-now_, Castorum. - _Wee-pus-cow_, Burnt wood, lying on the ground. - _Wan-nah-scootch_, The end, edge, or extremity. - _Wenne-peg,_ The sea called by that name; also - a lake. - - - THE END. - - - R. Watts, _Printer, - Crown Court, Temple Bar_. - - - - - FOOTNOTES - - -[1]See Appendix (E). - -[2]This duty is considered by all naval officers as the severest trial - of health and spirit to which the profession of a seaman is liable: - and in proof of this, it will appear, by the following Narrative, - that, upon the _Rosamond_ being ordered a second time to this - station, her Captain obtained leave to quit his ship, and eight of - her crew deserted the first time the boat went to shore, after the - order arrived from the _Admiralty_. - -[3]See the narrative of this circumstance, as it appeared, at the time, - in the _Naval Chronicle_ and other public journals. Upon this signal - instance of _British_ valour in a person so young as to be almost a - child in the service, and who had gallantly volunteered to accompany - the expedition upon this dangerous enterprise, the Captain of his - ship presented Mr. _Chappell_ with the sword of the _Spanish_ - Commander, as the prize of his valour. - -[4]The Gunner was tried by a Court-martial, during our stay at the - _Nore_; and was sentenced, to be reprimanded, and to receive an - admonition to be more cautious in future. - -[5]This is one of the most remarkable examples of the _Cyclopéan - architecture_ of the _Celts_ which is known to exist; owing to its - remote situation with regard to the rest of _Europe_. - -[6]The _Fucus Vesiculosus_ of _Linnœus_, or _Bladder Fucus_; called also - _Sea Oak_, and _Sea Wrack_. The _alkaline_ salt obtained from these - ashes is the common _carbonate of soda_. - -[7]For an accurate Table of the different degrees of variation, see - _Appendix_ (A). - -[8]For any further particulars respecting the Settlements and progress - of the _Moravians_, on the Coast of _Labrador_ and elsewhere, the - Reader is referred to a “History of the Mission of the _United - Brethren_ among the _Indians_ in _North America_,” in Three Parts, - by _George Henry Laskiel_; translated from the _German_, by - _Christian Ignatius La Trobe_, 1794. Also to “The Periodical - Accounts of their Missions,” published by the _Brethren’s Society_, - for the furtherance of the Gospel, at No. 10, _Nevil’s Court, Fetter - Lane, Holborn, London_. - -[9]See the _Vignette_ to p. 1. - -[10]See the rough Sketch of a Canoe, made by the Author on the spot. - _Plate_ I. - -[11]Mr. _Hearne_, in his Journey to the Mouth of the _Coppermine River_, - observes, that the _Esquimaux_, on the sea coast to the northward, - used kettles made of _lapis ollaris_. - -[12]It was probably _Sea-weed_; a kind of food eaten as a stew, or soup, - by the natives of the Isle of _St. Kilda_, in the _Hebrides_. - -[13]A List is contained in the _Appendix_, of the different articles of - _Esquimaux_ manufacture which were presented, by the Author, to the - University Library at _Cambridge_; accompanied, also, by a List of - things of a similar nature brought to _Russia_ by Commodore - _Billings_, from the N. W. coast of _America_. - -[14]This gallant officer lost his arm in the attack on _Java_, by a - cannon-ball. The seamen seeing him knocked backwards by the shock, - and lying senseless, conjectured that he had been killed outright; - but as they were bearing him off the field, the Captain recovered - his senses, and feeling the hot beams of a vertical sun striking - directly on his face and head (his hat having rolled off when he - fell), he immediately exclaimed to one of his men, “_Damme, Sir! - fetch me my hat._” - -[15]Some of the arrows brought to _England_ by the Author were barbed - _flint_, and exactly resemble the arrow-heads found in the _Tomb of - the Athenians_ in the _Plain of Marathon_. - -[16]See the Plate. - -[17]See _Hearne’s_ “Journey to the _Northern Ocean_,” p. 154, _London_, - 1795. - -[18]This practice was common to almost all the antient world; especially - to the _Celtic_ and _Gothic_ tribes, as manifested by the - antiquities now found in their sepulchres. Possibly, therefore, the - _Asiatic_ origin of the _Esquimaux_ may hence be deduced. The same - custom also exists among the _Greenlanders_; who are, in fact, a - branch of the _Esquimaux_. “They like,” says _Crantz_, “to make the - grave in some remote high place, laying a little moss upon the bare - ground (for the rock admits of no digging), and spread a skin upon - it. . . . . Near the burying spot they deposit the _kajak_ and darts - of the deceased, and the tools he daily used.”—See _Crantz’s - Greenland_, _vol._ I. _p._ 237. _London_, 1767. - -[19]_Moschetos_ are considered as among the winged agents of the _Evil - Spirit_, by some of the _North-American_ tribes. - -[20]See the Sketch of this remarkable _Cape_, taken on the tops. - -[21]_Hearne’s_ Journey to the Northern Ocean, p. 224. _Lond._ 1795. - -[22]See the Voyages of _Frobisher_, _Davies_, and others. - -[23]This is the denomination of the bottom of _Hudson’s Bay_ to the - southward of _Cape Henrietta Maria_. - -[24]The Beluga. - -[25]The account of the above transaction was derived from the most - indubitable authority. - -[26]Memoirs of Mrs. _Mary Robinson_. - -[27]See the account of Expeditions through the North-West Continent of - _America_ to the _Pacific Ocean_. - -[28]The infant colony is called by his Lordship, _Osna Boia_ (two - _Gaelic_ words signifying _Ossian’s Town_), from the resemblance - between _that_ and the _Indian_ name of _Red River_—_Asnaboyne_. - -[29]See _Appendix_ B. - -[30]It is astonishing, that, before the return of the ships, the whole - of the drift ice in the _Straits_ disappeared. - -[31]I should have before mentioned, that the _Prince of Wales_ did not - arrive at _York Flats_ until the day after our ship. - -[32]As it may be amusing to some people, I have added a few - thermometrical observations made at _Oxford House_, in the year - 1811.—See _Appendix_ C. - -[33]Instead of tracing the _Nelson River_ from its source to the sea, it - will be expedient to annex a map of the river from _Lake Winnipeg_ - to the _Gull Lake_, shewing also the portages, &c.; and this part of - the river may be taken as a sample of the whole. - -[34]The badge of his dignity among the _Indians_. - -[35]The title by which he distinguished the officers of the ship from - the gentlemen of the factory. - -[36]A very expressive name given by the _Indians_ to spirituous liquors, - signifying _Mad-Water_. - -[37]Whilst this Journal was preparing for the press, the following - article appeared in many of the Daily Prints. - - “Intelligence has been received, by a late arrival from _Canada_, of - the entire dispersion of the Colony founded by Lord _Selkirk_, in - conjunction with the _Hudson’s-Bay Company_, on the River - _Asnaboyne_, in the interior of the N. W. Continent of _America_. - Disputes with the _Metiffs_ of the Country, a race of people between - _Canadians_ and _Indians_, inflamed the natural jealousy which the - latter have always felt, relative to the agricultural encroachments - on their hunting-grounds in the interior, and, we understand, - compelled his Lordship’s Governor to abandon the establishment which - had been made.”—“About one hundred and forty settlers were conveyed - by the _Canadian_ traders to Lake _Superior_, on their way to - _Canada_; and the remainder are supposed to have gone to _Hudson’s - Bay_, with a view of finding a passage to _Great Britain_. - - “The Governor, Mr. _M^cDonald_, and a Sheriff, also appointed by - Lord _Selkirk_ (Mr. _Spencer_), were brought down prisoners to - _Montreal_; the one for having granted, the other for having - executed, a warrant, under the authority of which, provisions, the - property of _Canadian_ traders, were seized during the preceding - winter, for the maintenance of the colonists; and these gentlemen - were admitted to bail in the Courts of _Lower Canada_, to take their - trials for this alleged offence.” - - Whatever may be the decision of the Judges on this trial, the - _Metiffs_ will have succeeded in their malevolent intention, that of - destroying all prospect of the Colony ever arriving to a flourishing - condition. - -[38]See _Pinkerton’s Geography_. - -[39]Here Mr. _Pinkerton_, although perfectly correct in every other - respect, has fallen into the same error as other geographers; - namely, in peopling _Hudson’s Bay_ with _Esquimaux_: whereas, the - _Cree Indians_, who inhabit the Bay, are not savage, take no care of - their eyes, and are clothed by the _European_ traders. - -[40]Here he plainly alludes to the _Esquimaux_ of _Hudson’s Straits_; - not to the _Cree Indians_ of the Bay. - -[41]At present they employ but two ships, and consequently considerably - fewer seamen. - -[42]For the amusement of persons who are desirous of such information, I - have annexed an abstract of the ship’s reckoning from _Cape - Resolution_ to the _Orkneys_. See Appendix D. - -[43]See _Walter Scott_’s Notes on _Marmion, a Tale of Flodden Field_. - -[44]Fossil timber, in a mineralized state, is found in the _Orkneys_ and - in the _Hebrides_. In the island of _Skie_ there was found part of a - large tree mineralized by _Hornstone_; which is now in the - possession of the Professor of Mineralogy at _Cambridge_. - -[45]So called by the _Canadians_. - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - ---Silently corrected obvious typographical errors. - ---Retained non-standard spellings and dialect. - ---Re-ordered items in the Table of Illustrations, to match actual order - in the text. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO HUDSON'S -BAY IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ROSAMOND*** - - -******* This file should be named 54088-0.txt or 54088-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/4/0/8/54088 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - |