diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/54019-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/54019-0.txt | 8835 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 8835 deletions
diff --git a/old/54019-0.txt b/old/54019-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e381f5f..0000000 --- a/old/54019-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8835 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Farthest North, by Charles Lanman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Farthest North - The Life and Explorations of Lieutenant James Booth - Lockwood, of the Greely Arctic Expedition - -Author: Charles Lanman - -Release Date: January 18, 2017 [EBook #54019] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARTHEST NORTH *** - - - - -Produced by Marcia Brooks, Stephen Hutcheson, and the -online Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - - - - - - -[Illustration: J. B. Lockwood U S A] - - - - - FARTHEST NORTH; - - - OR, - - _THE LIFE AND EXPLORATIONS OF LIEUTENANT JAMES BOOTH LOCKWOOD, OF THE - GREELY ARCTIC EXPEDITION_. - - - BY - CHARLES LANMAN. - - - NEW YORK: - D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, - 1, 3, AND 5 BOND STREET. - 1885. - - -_When we think of the adventure of our times; when we recall the great -Arctic explorations that have called forth an endurance and daring which -have been unsurpassed in other days; . . . what is there that is more -romantic than they are in any history of any age?_ - - _From a Thanksgiving Sermon by_ - Rev. Phillips Brooks. - - - Copyright, 1885, - By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. - - - - - PREFACE. - - -It is believed that this book, with its true but none the less stirring -adventures, will be of much interest to the general public, as well as -gratifying to the many warm friends of Lieutenant Lockwood. It will -likewise correct any erroneous impressions which may have arisen from -the publication of garbled extracts from the official journals kept by -the different members of the Greely party and, by order of the War -Department, laid open to the public. By this order, Lockwood’s journal -and those of others became public property, and hence any reference to -them in advance of their official publication is allowable. - -The few pages devoted to the early life can not be expected to -especially interest the general public, but will gratify Lieutenant -Lockwood’s friends. They are here produced to give them permanency, and -to show his sterling character. - -No attempt is here made to give a history of the Expedition, and only so -much of Lockwood’s journal is produced as shows his connection -therewith. The voyage to Lady Franklin Bay is given more in detail, as -it presents a lively picture of an interesting people not much known, -and as it exhibits the buoyant spirits with which he entered upon the -work, before dissensions in camp had checked them, though without -marring his faithfulness and energy. The important part he had in the -enterprise, his zeal, energy, and loyalty to his chief and to the cause, -all are fully set forth, and will be more clearly seen when the more -elaborate history of the Expedition shall be published by Lieutenant -Greely, as will shortly be done. - -Although the journal has been freely used, its language and style have -not been closely followed, except in those parts quoted which refer to -Lockwood’s sentiments and feelings. The deep pathos of these could be -expressed as well in no other words. - -His journal is very full and complete on the perilous boat-voyage to -Cape Sabine, and in the heart-rending struggle for life in that -ever-memorable hut where he and so many others laid down their lives. -This has purposely been reduced to a few pages, giving the story only so -far as Lieutenant Lockwood was connected with it. The same, may be said -as to the home-life at the station on Lady Franklin Bay. - -The portrait of Lieutenant Lockwood is from an excellent photograph -taken a short time before he started for St. John’s, and two of the -woodcuts are from photographs by Sergeant Rice. “Arctic Sledging” was -made up from a description and a sketch by Sergeant Brainard, and -“Farthest North” from a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood. - -The map is a reproduction of that published by the London Geographical -Society, which is an exact transcript of maps drawn by Lieutenant -Lockwood and submitted by him to Lieutenant Greely with reports of -sledge-journeys. This map gives the names agreed upon by Lieutenant -Greely and Lieutenant Lockwood, and are those referred to in the journal -and in this book. It is much to be regretted that many of these names -differ from those on the official map published by authority to the -world. The names first given commemorate events connected with those -wonderful sledge-journeys, as will be seen in the text; and, if a few -unimportant lakes and points were named after friends and relatives, -this might have been conceded to one who accomplished so much, and that -much so well. The map of the London Geographical Society will probably -live, and the other perish, as it should. - -Captain Markham, Royal Navy, soon after the return of the Greely -Expedition, declared, in articles published in a leading English -magazine, that Lockwood never got beyond Cape Britannia, and that he -mistook Cape May for that cape, etc. It was thought that, when the -history of this sledge-journey was better known, Markham would be glad -to withdraw this ungenerous aspersion. This is done so far as to admit -that Lockwood did reach 83° 24′ north latitude, 44° 5′ west longitude; -but it is now said, in the article “Polar Regions,” of the new -Encyclopædia Britannica, written by the captain’s brother, that all this -region had previously been explored and exhaustively examined by the -English expedition of 1875-’76. - -This is very remarkable, in view of the fact that Lockwood Island, which -was reached by Lockwood, is one hundred geographical miles east and -forty miles north of Cape Britannia which Beaumont saw at the distance -of twenty miles, but never reached. - -In the same article are expressed sentiments in accord with those -contained in this book, viz.: “If the simple and necessary precaution -had been taken of stationing a depot-ship in a good harbor at the -entrance of Smith’s Sound, in annual communication with Greely on one -side and with America on the other, there would have been no disaster. -If precautions proved to be necessary by experience are taken, there is -no undue risk or danger in polar enterprises. There is no question as to -the value and importance of polar discovery, and as to the principles on -which expeditions should be sent out. Their objects are exploration for -scientific purposes and the encouragement of maritime enterprise.” - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - I. Early Life 7 - II. Army-Life in Arizona 20 - III. Army-Life in Nebraska 31 - IV. Army-Life in Kansas 43 - V. Army-Life in Indian Territory and Colorado 52 - VI. Preparing for the Arctic Regions 58 - VII. From Newfoundland to Lady Franklin Bay 64 - VIII. House-building and Local Explorations 87 - IX. Preliminary Sledge Expeditions and Life at the Station 111 - X. “The Arctic Moon” 132 - XI. Expedition to Lockwood Island 139 - XII. From Lockwood Island to Lady Franklin Bay 178 - XIII. Waiting and Watching 194 - XIV. Resuming a Desperate Struggle 229 - XV. Across Grinnell Land 249 - XVI. Preparing for Home 279 - XVII. Homeward Bound 286 - XVIII. The Final Catastrophe 296 - XIX. The Woeful Return 317 - - - - - ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - Portrait of James B. Lockwood. - Lockwood, Natives, and Kyack at Disco, Greenland. - Sledging over the Arctic Floe. - Taking Observations at Lockwood Island. - Lockwood’s Corner. - Map showing Lockwood’s Explorations. - - - - - FARTHEST NORTH. - - - - - I. - EARLY LIFE. - - -In the following pages, it is proposed to record the personal history of -an American hero whose fortune it was, at the sacrifice of his life, to -visit and explore the utmost limit in the Arctic regions ever attained -by human skill and enterprise. Aside from the information communicated -to me by his family, the materials placed in my hands consist of his -private correspondence and various journals which he faithfully kept -while serving his country on the Western frontiers, as well as in the -inhospitable domain of the North. As the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck wrote -about a kindred character— - - “He lived, as mothers wish their sons to live,” - -and, on the score of fidelity to duty, - - “He died, as fathers wish their sons to die,” - -leaving a name that will long be honored in every civilized land as that -of a martyr in the cause of geographical exploration. - -Many of those connected with the Naval Academy at Annapolis, Maryland, -before the civil war, will remember a playful and mischievous boy, whose -ready smile and cheerful ways beguiled them in their hours of -relaxation. Others who were at that school after the war will remember -the same boy, grown into a youth of sixteen years, rugged in aspect, -devoted to manly sports, and assiduous in all his duties. It is the -story of his brief but eventful life to which this volume is devoted, -written for the information of his friends and all those who admire true -heroism and rare abilities when allied to sufferings for the public -weal. - -James Booth Lockwood was the second son and third child of General Henry -H. Lockwood and Anna Booth Lockwood. He was born at the Naval Academy, -Annapolis, on the 9th of October, 1852, at which time and place his -father—a Professor of Mathematics in the Navy—instructed the midshipmen -in the military branches, as he had done for many years before. Both his -parents were from the State of Delaware, and came from the best stock of -that State; and, as his father taught his students “how to shoot,” and -prepare themselves for the conflicts of life, it was quite natural that -the son should have acquired a love of noble deeds and adventure. - -Like many boys, he had his narrow escapes from death, one of which -occurred in April, 1860, when, having fallen into the river from the -dock, he was rescued in an insensible condition, and restored to life -with great difficulty. This escape must have been recalled by him with -special emotion in after-years amid his struggles with the ice of -Smith’s Sound. - -His innate love of fun had been one of his characteristics from -childhood, nor was it subdued even when recovering from the accident -which nearly cost him his life; for, while lying in his bed, he peered -into his father’s face with a quizzical smile, and remarked, “I was -drowned, but not drowned dead.” - -When the Naval Academy was occupied by a general of the army, in 1861, -and the students and professors were transferred to Newport, Rhode -Island, young Lockwood accompanied his father and family, and was placed -at a public school in that place. After a brief residence in Newport, -his father, being a graduate of the Military Academy at West Point, was -called upon to command a volunteer regiment of Delaware troops, and -having been subsequently commissioned a brigadier-general of volunteers, -he was placed in charge of the Eastern Shore counties of Virginia and -returned to the region of hostilities, making his headquarters at -Drummondtown, in Accomac County. In this quaint and quiet place, and -while a mere stripling of ten years, young Lockwood displayed his love -of adventure and active life by forming a company of all the colored -boys in the village, erecting earthworks in a vacant lot, and, all armed -with corn-stalks and broom-handles, meeting a company of white boys in -mimic war—noisy, if not dangerous to life or limb. The vanity of -personal strife, however, soon becoming irksome to his mind, he turned -his attention to horsemanship, and explored the surrounding shores of -Accomac on a Chincoteague pony belonging to his father. He also spent -many quiet hours conversing about horses and their habits with the -soldiers in the garrison, with whom he was a special favorite. After a -while, his father was transferred to the command of troops at Harper’s -Ferry, and there a new field of adventure occupied the attention of the -incipient hero. He was foremost in climbing the neighboring -mountain-heights and scaling precipices, and always on the lookout for -adventure along the waters of the Potomac. Afterward, when living with -his family near the city of Baltimore, he displayed his activity and -energy in other ways. When neighboring boys were wont to trespass on his -father’s grounds and fruit-trees, he was quite as ready to defend his -home as he had been in Accomac to maintain the national struggle then -rending the land. And here it was that he often accompanied his father -on his rounds among the military works near Baltimore, and always -attracted the attention of the troops by his skill in riding. But these -experiences were not deemed satisfactory for molding the character of a -boy, and then it was that his father sent him to a boarding-school at -Bethlehem, in Pennsylvania, kept by a Mr. Schwartz, a good scholar and -strict disciplinarian. Of course, like those of all boys, his letters -teemed with complaints. He was _very homesick_—a mere child separated -from all he loved. In one letter he spoke of praying to God to make him -satisfied. In after-years, and when suffering all the horrors of the -Arctic, his mother’s prayer was that his childhood’s star might again -arise, and lead his sorrowing heart to that comfort found only above. -His chief grievances were a Dutch dish regularly given to the boys, -called _scrapul_, and the discipline of _powers_ administered to those -who failed in their studies. In this latter punishment, the delinquent -was required to raise to the fortieth, fiftieth, or one hundredth power -any number given him. However distasteful to him at the time, he seems -to have changed his mind upon the subjects of food and discipline -afterward; for he became, after his return home, a strong advocate of -_scrapul_ as a physical, and of “powers” as a mental diet. Returning, in -1866, with his father to Annapolis, he was sent to St. John’s College in -that place, and at that time in a flourishing condition, under the able -administration of James C. Welling, now the accomplished President of -Columbian College. Although his mental abilities were acknowledged as -superior, he preferred action to books, and his success there was not -satisfactory to his father. Others known to be his mental inferiors took -a higher stand. He, however, read some Latin, and made considerable -progress in mathematics. Here we come to a new illustration of his -character. During his residence within the walls of the Academy, a -species of tyranny existed among the sons of naval officers of his own -age with whom he associated, which he could not endure. Rank in the -father was supposed to give rank or prestige to the son. This theory -young Lockwood was unwilling to acknowledge, and the consequence was -that he soon found himself beset by those whom he opposed. But then, as -always with the free and brave, right prevailed, and the aggressors were -sent to the wall, while the fearless victor very soon became the peer of -his associates. The situation of the Academy offering peculiar -facilities for boating, fishing, swimming, etc., the professor’s son -became an expert in all these exercises, making pets of his sail and row -boats, as he had done with the ponies of Chincoteague. Many of the -Annapolis students, now high officers in the navy, have spoken of his -frolicsome pranks at that time within the grounds of the Academy—for -example, how he mimicked the strut of the drum-major, how he teased the -watchman by hiding among the trees and bushes, personating an intruder -on the grounds, and how he alarmed the servant-maids and the children by -appearing suddenly before them like a phantom. He was more fond of -reading than of study, and among his favorite books were those of De -Foe, Mayne Reid, and others of that class. To what extent he was -familiar with the histories of John Ledyard and Joseph R. Bellot can not -be stated, but there is a striking similarity in their characters, and -indeed it was the fate of the latter, like Lockwood, to lose his life in -the Arctic regions. They form a trio of remarkable explorers, whose fame -will be perennial, but it was the fate of the last one mentioned to -reach the highest success. During the latter part of his residence at -Annapolis, he spent many of his spare hours on his father’s farm. By way -of encouragement, his father assigned to him a patch of ground for his -special cultivation, with fertilizers and the use of a team. To the -surprise of all, his success seemed amazing, and his crops were good and -profitable. With the money thus secured he purchased for himself a watch -and a sporting gun. He had a special fondness for dogs, and exerted over -them great influence. His favorite in this direction was a short-legged, -long-bodied, common rat-terrier. In the purity of this dog’s blood, he -was a decided believer, which faith he maintained with many hot -arguments, and exemplified by teaching the animal a great variety of -tricks. Indeed, the high degree of training to which he brought the dog -Jack was remarkable. He was always quiet and positive toward the animal, -and Jack gave his commands a serious and implicit obedience. One of the -feats performed by the dog was to carry a candlestick with a lighted -candle wherever ordered to do so. Another was to this effect: the boy -would place a small scrap of paper on the parlor wall at a height which -Jack was hardly able to reach. Jack’s attention would then be called to -the paper, and the dog and master would retire up-stairs. Some time -afterward, Jack, in obedience to a mere word, would proceed to the -parlor, and, to the amusement of those congregated there, launch his -body at the paper until he finally secured it, and then would carry it -to his master. Although this dog had a special dislike for fire, he -would, under orders, pull chestnuts out of the hot coals, even if it -took him an hour to perform the task; and it is also related of him that -on one occasion, when he slipped his muzzle on the Academy grounds, he -picked it up and took it to his master. When the lad’s father was -ordered to the National Observatory, the family removing to Washington, -the pet dog accompanied them, and the intimacy between the dog and his -master was unabated. They often rambled through the streets together, -and it was during one of their walks along Pennsylvania Avenue that the -dog disappeared, and was never recovered by his owner, whose grief was -most sincere and manifest. He published an advertisement, and, true to -his regard for the departed, he spoke of it as a pure-blooded animal; -which statement was probably the reason why the dog was never returned, -as no stranger could have believed in the alleged pedigree of such an -ungainly creature. - -After young Lockwood’s father and family had become settled in -Washington, it was decided that he should return to Annapolis and take -charge of the farm until some more suitable or congenial employment -should come into view. In looking over the home letters which he wrote -at that time, I find a few developments of character which are worthy of -mention. For example, in February, 1872, he writes as follows: - -“I find Annapolis the same as ever. It would hardly do for Rip Van -Winkle to go to sleep here, for, when he awoke, he would find no change, -not even by death.” - -After speaking in the same letter of a man going to purchase implements -in Baltimore, he says: “I think it would pay one capable of judging of -such things, or one endowed with ‘Lockwood Common Sense,’” this allusion -being to an imaginary manual which the children had attributed to their -father. The quiet humor of the youthful farmer is manifested in another -letter after this fashion: “I have been suffering all the week from the -effects of a poison most probably communicated from some vine. It -manifests itself pretty much as Job’s troubles showed themselves, and no -position of body except standing affords relief. I haven’t yet got down -into the ashes. If tartar emetic produced these eruptions, they might be -attributed in some way to the evil agency of Mrs. W——.” - -The person here alluded to was the one who became notorious for the -alleged poisoning of General W. S. Ketcham, in Baltimore. Young Lockwood -had met her at a boarding-house in Annapolis after her release from -prison, and was agreeably impressed by her conversation and manners. On -a subsequent occasion, when visiting his family in Washington, and some -severe remark had been made against the lady in question, he demanded -that the company present should not abuse an absent friend in his -presence. Being of a sensitive nature in regard to the weather, as is -proved by several of his Annapolis letters, and by such passages as the -one now to be quoted, it seems surprising that he should ever have -decided to visit the icy regions of the North. - -“This gloomy weather,” he says, “is by no means calculated to elate -one’s spirits, but, on the contrary, makes everything appear in its most -dreary and desolate light, especially on a farm like this, and, though -the spring will bring more work and attention, yet I shall hail its -appearance with joy. I must confess that I can not prevent a feeling of -loneliness from coming over me, particularly in the daytime, for at -night my lamp and open wood-fire make things more cheerful, or rather -less dreary.” - -As these letters were written from a farm, and by a mere boy, they are -chiefly devoted to asking for advice as to how he should manage affairs, -and to reporting the condition of the crops; but, in their way, they -prove that there was much solid manhood in the lad, and that he looked -upon life as something substantial, and not as a kind of dreamland. - -On one occasion, when visiting his home, he noticed that one of his -sisters was manifesting what he thought an unreasonable excitement about -the advent of cockroaches in the kitchen, whereupon he drew the figure -of a vessel under full sail, beneath which he wrote the following: “The -brig Anna Baby, bound to the north pole for a load of cockroaches.” - -On another occasion, after consulting the family copy of Webster’s -Dictionary, he wrote upon one of the fly-leaves, opposite the -indorsements of Henry Clay, Daniel Webster, and other distinguished men, -these words: “I regard this dictionary as very good, especially when you -can not get any other.” - -These incidents, though unimportant, help us to appreciate the character -of the critical and independent youth. - -The following example of the boy’s ingenuity is also worth mentioning: - -In 1870 a brother-in-law gave him a small, cheap clock, about four and a -half inches in diameter, which he at once adapted to the purpose of -waking himself in the morning. After joining the slats of his bed -together with battens, he sawed them through in the middle and hinged -the parts. That half of the arrangement which was at the head of the bed -was supported only by a single prop. A minute collar of lead was -supported by one of the hands of the clock. At the proper time the lead -slipped from the hand automatically, and, in falling, set in motion a -system of levers which were connected with the prop by a string. Thus, -with unfailing regularity, the prop was jerked from its place, and the -young occupant of the bed was pitched headlong to the floor among his -pillows and bolster. When he tired of this apparatus, it became his -custom at night to hitch a string around his foot, the end of the string -being passed out of the window and allowed to trail down to the -kitchen-door. At a definite time in the morning, previously ordered, the -colored cook pulled the string until she received intimation of a -successful result. - -In the hope of finding more congenial employment, young Lockwood now -fixed his mind on engineer work in connection with railroads. He joined -a corps on the Texas and Pacific Railroad line, and went to the -northeastern corner of the State of Texas, where, for four months, he -drove pegs and cut down bushes in the virgin wilderness, which -employment was only terminated by the failure of the company to go on -with its enterprise. What with the rough people with whom he was -compelled to associate, the hard fare at the rude taverns, and a severe -attack of sickness, he had a very disagreeable experience, which was -enhanced by the non-payment of wages by the company, and by the -temporary loss of the spare money furnished by his father, which was -taken from him by the rascality of a pretended friend, an employé of the -railroad company. By careful financial engineering, he managed to leave -the wilderness of Texas, went to Shreveport, and thence to New Orleans, -where he took a steamer for Cincinnati, and on this trip he met with one -small bit of good fortune. Owing to his limited means he contracted with -the captain of the steamer that he should be carried to Cincinnati, O., -for a specific sum, all his meals to be included in the passage-money. -It so happened, however, that the steamer was detained by floating ice -for three weeks, but this caused no detriment to the traveler’s pocket, -as time was not “nominated in the bond.” About eleven years after that -experience, the same traveler was fighting his way through the ice of -the Arctic seas and enduring the horrors of Cape Sabine, finding it -difficult to secure necessary rations at any price or of any quality. - -On reaching home, he began the study of bookkeeping with a view to the -civil service. With others, he was examined for a position in the -Treasury Department. He passed the examination with credit, and received -a mark much above the number required for passing, but, when the -office-mark was thrown in, as was then the custom, his average was -reduced, and those who had personal influence and understood the “tricks -of the trade” became the successful applicants. - - - - - II. - ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. - - -After finding that farming and railroad engineering were not exactly the -employments he had fancied them to be, young Lockwood resumed his -studies under the direction of his father. Not long afterward, however, -he was seized with the idea of entering the army, and, at the very -outset of this venture for a useful life, he was met with a blending of -good and bad fortune. Securing the influence of many friends, he made a -successful appeal to the President and the War Department. He received -orders for an examination before the proper tribunal, and, out of -thirty-eight young men who were examined in Washington, he passed No. 1. -He also had a higher mark than any of those examined in other places at -the same time; hence he was entitled to the highest commission as second -lieutenant, and at one time it was resolved to give it to him; but, as -the examinations were conducted in different places and before different -boards, it was decided to settle the rank of the applicants by lot, and -Lockwood’s number was forty, instead of one to which he was justly -entitled. He was, however, promised a crack regiment, and hence became -second lieutenant in the Twenty-third Infantry, then commanded by two -officers who had gained distinction in the late war—Colonel Jefferson C. -Davis and Lieutenant-Colonel George Crook. He soon after joined the -recruiting station at New York for instruction. - -The few letters that Lieutenant Lockwood wrote home from New York -contained very graphic pictures of what he there observed. His reception -at the recruiting-station was most cordial, one of the first things done -there by the recruiting-officers, to his surprise, being to bring forth -a demijohn of whisky; but from this hospitality he begged to be excused, -only one or two other young men following his example. - -After a service of several weeks at the recruiting-station in New York, -he conducted recruits to the Territory of Arizona by the way of Panama. -The party left New York in November, 1873, and, on reaching San -Francisco, went by steamer to Fort Yuma, near the mouth of the Colorado -River, and thence marched over the rugged and dusty plains of Arizona to -McDowell Post, a distance of more than one hundred and fifty miles in -the interior. - -From the few letters that he wrote respecting his trip from New York to -San Francisco, we gather the following items: - -“Aspinwall is a dirty, sandy town, of no architectural pretensions. I -cannot better describe it than by asking you to imagine Lockwoodville[1] -with a lot of palm- and cocoanut-trees growing in the vacant lots, -plenty of the sand and filth aforesaid, all the darkies of Annapolis -sauntering around, plenty of children and many dogs, pigs, etc. However, -I must do Aspinwall justice—it has a neat little church, a marble -monument erected to some of its chief benefactors, and, what I should -call, a remarkably fine statue of Columbus, in bronze. It has an -enormous trade passing through it, from one ocean to the other, and is -really a place of great importance to the mercantile world.” - -“We reached Panama between four and five in the afternoon, after a very -interesting ride across the country, and were immediately embarked for -the Constitution—which lay two miles from shore—so that I had no -opportunity of seeing Panama, except from the water. The ship left -during the evening, and ever since has been ‘plowing the angry main’ -toward San Francisco, excepting when stopping at some of the towns along -the coast. We have seen several of these, and they are all of one type, -that of Aspinwall, though on a much smaller scale. Some that I saw had -not half a dozen wooden houses, but consisted merely of reed-huts -covered with straw. One of these—Mazatlan—claims to have twenty thousand -inhabitants, but does not appear to have more than one tenth of that -number. All the tropical fruits were abundant at these places, and could -be purchased for a trifle. The Constitution is a side-wheeler of four -thousand tons, and has little motion, and, while sea-sickers are -abundant, I am not one of them. I have gained ten pounds, and now weigh -one hundred and sixty-one.” - -Lockwood’s stay in San Francisco was too brief to afford him much -opportunity for observation, but here is what he said of the Chinese: “I -visited Chinatown this evening, and saw the Celestials in all their -glory. I saw many strange and amusing sights in their stores and shops -and along their streets, as they are very slow in adopting civilized -customs. I send along with this some Chinese pictures which I purchased. -I am very much pleased with San Francisco, and shall leave it with many -regrets. A walk through the Chinese quarter is like a visit to some -Chinese city on the other side of the Pacific.” - -The few events of his trip along the coast to Yuma were to this effect: -Soon after leaving the Golden Gate, he experienced a storm that was far -from pacific in its character, far worse than any he had witnessed since -leaving New York; he visited Magdalena Bay, which impressed him as a -barren, miserable place, chiefly noted for its want of houses, and yet -of some importance as the shipping port of a dye-wood found in that -region; he also stopped at Carmen Island, where large quantities of salt -were found in the dry bed of a lake, and at Cape St. Lucas, but brought -away no favorable impressions from any of these remote places. With Yuma -City he was better pleased, describing its houses as small, one-story -affairs, built of adobe, more Mexican than American in character, and -its streets as far more dusty than those of Washington City; and the -mountains surrounding the city as very imposing. The Colorado reminded -him of the Red River—the channel winding and running between great -mud-flats and islands, all constantly changing, and abounding in many -kinds of water-fowl. He was interested in the Indian inhabitants, whom -he pitied for their poverty and degradation; occasionally seeing a -number of squaws reclining like quadrupeds on the mud-flats or in front -of their tiny oval huts. - -The sojourn of Lieutenant Lockwood in Arizona lasted into the summer of -1874, and from the letters which he wrote home from Post McDowell may be -gathered some interesting particulars, illustrating his habits of close -observation in regard to men and events. - -His journey from Fort Yuma to Camp McDowell was full of interest and was -greatly enjoyed. He had for companions two brother officers and three -ladies; traveled by ambulance, making marches of only about fifteen -miles; camped out every night, Lockwood himself sleeping on the ground -outside. As the country was very desolate and barren, they traveled -generally along the valley of the Gila, but their last march was over -desert land forty-five miles wide. They saw many relics along the route, -mounds, ruins, and immense ditches for irrigation. One immense pile of -rocks, called the Painted Rocks, was entirely covered with pictures of -lizards, Indians, beasts, and birds—supposed to represent a great battle -in which the Apaches conquered the Maricopas. There were also along the -road graves of men murdered by the Indians. One grave, near Gila Bend, -was of a man named Lumley, a station-keeper, murdered by two -Mexicans—his successor exhibited a knife, used by one of the murderers, -which had been found, and he pointed out the spot where Judge Lynch had -disposed of the only criminal that happened to be captured. While the -travelers did not spend any money at hotels, they were obliged to pay -from twenty to thirty dollars for being ferried across the Gila and Salt -Rivers at different points. - -In one of his letters, written to his sister after the rainy season, and -soon after his arrival at Camp McDowell, young Lockwood says: “I wish -you could see the pretty flowers around here; they are principally -yellow and red, and each kind grows by itself. They grow so close -together that the ground is covered as with a carpet. To the west of -this post there is a wide plain covered with these flowers. There is -also a species of cactus called the Suwarrow, which grows fifteen or -twenty feet high—a sort of tree without branches, but covered with -thorns; the outside of this tree is of a green color and nearly as soft -as young asparagus, but inside it has a frame of wood. These are all -over the plain, in fact all over Arizona. I often walk out here after -dinner with a large dog that belongs to one of the officers, and start -up the rabbits—great big Jack-rabbits, as they are called—as large as a -small dog. They can run very fast, faster than any dog except a hound. -Among other curiosities about here are rattlesnakes and lizards—the -lizards as common as flies; also crows as big as hens and almost as -tame. The post is entirely surrounded by mountains.” By way of contrast -to this pleasing prospect, in another letter he gives the particulars of -the murder of two men by the Indians within twelve miles of the -garrison, their bodies having been fearfully mutilated. “I am still in -the land of the finite and material,” he writes, “and the Apaches have -not yet disturbed the arrangement of my back hair; in short, I am alive -and kicking.” - -On the 14th of May, Lockwood writes that “there has been nothing new at -the post except the arrival of Lieutenant Schuyler, Fifth Cavalry. He -has been out on a scout for several months past, dropping in at various -posts now and then. He reports that he came upon the Apaches southeast -of here, killed twelve and took fourteen prisoners. He is accompanied by -Dr. Corbasier and a party of thirty-one soldiers and eighty-one Indian -scouts. These scouts are composed of Apache-Mojave, Tonto-Apaches, and -other tribes, closely allied to the Apaches proper. It seems strange -that they are thus willing to join the enemy in exterminating their -brethren; but such is their nature. They are hardly superior to the -beasts, except in shape, and even there the line of demarkation is not -very distinct. The Pimos, to the number of one hundred or more, were -here about a week ago, on their way to punish the Apaches for stealing -some stock from them. When they returned, they reported the killing of -quite a number of their foes—some sixteen or more—and taking many -prisoners. Schuyler’s party confirm the report; they came across the -camp of the Apaches, and the doctor said he counted a large number of -slain. The Pimos surprised the Apaches when asleep and almost -exterminated them. They were armed with war-clubs, and of course mangled -their bodies horribly. When found their heads were all beaten in, and -their bodies stuck full of arrows and partially burned. The doctor says -it was the most sickening sight he ever beheld. The Apache bands, off -their reservations, are fast becoming exterminated, over a thousand -having been killed during the last winter. General Crook will not allow -them to return to their reservations unless they bring the heads of -several of the ringleaders in the late outbreak.” - -In another place, after alluding to the extravagant accounts published -about Arizona, he says: “One would suppose, from reading the pamphlet I -send you, that Arizona is a fine agricultural country—which is absurd; -and that it contains many flourishing cities and towns, whereas even the -river-bottoms require irrigation, and the ‘cities’ are merely the nuclei -of towns.” - -On one occasion, after alluding to his enjoyment of the newspapers sent -him from home, and to the early transfer of his regiment, he says: “It -would probably have been removed this spring but for the financial panic -and other commercial disasters. I suppose if the rest of the year goes -by prosperously, and nothing occurs to prolong the gingerly, penny-wise, -pound-foolish policy of Congress called economy (?), that the -Twenty-third will probably be removed next spring or fall.” And again, -he continues: “Grant appears to have obtained great credit by his veto -of the Inflation Bill. How Congress could pass a bill which seems to be -unacceptable and repugnant to the whole people, I can not understand.” - -Alluding a second time to the _pleasing_ characteristics of frontier -life, he tells his father that “a party of Indian scouts arrived here -yesterday from Schuyler’s command. They brought the news that the -lieutenant had _jumped_ the Indians at Four Peaks—a high mountain, forty -miles off—killed eighteen and captured six. The party brought in a -wounded scout, shot through the head, who is now in the hospital. He was -the only one wounded in the fight, or rather slaughter, for these -Indians rarely fight a party of any size. I suppose these Arizona tribes -are the most degraded, cowardly, and despicable savages in the country. -Schuyler, as I understand, generally sweeps a breadth of country fifty -miles across, by means of flanking-parties on the right and left, and -has been quite successful.” - -In speaking of his duties at the post, he says: “I am officer-of-the-day -every other day; I mount the guard every morning, attend all roll-calls, -accompany the captain in his inspection of quarters every morning, and -afterward recite tactics. I also am present with him at company-drill -every evening, command the company at Sunday morning inspection, sit on -boards of survey and perform other irregular duties.” - -After announcing the arrival of the paymaster at the post, and alluding -to expenses, he says: “Servants in this country are paid enormously. The -post-trader pays his Chinese cook thirty dollars per month, and has paid -as high as one hundred dollars. Officers in Arizona are compelled from -necessity to employ soldiers in this capacity, though contrary to the -regulations.” - -In one of his letters, Lieutenant Lockwood gives his opinion about some -of his father’s landed property, and then goes on after this fashion: -“The old farm has additional charms for me now, after living in Arizona, -and I have come to think that there are many worse places. Does distance -lend enchantment to the view? or what is it? I often long after some of -the delicious peaches and other fruit that the much-abused farm produces -in such abundance. However, if you can dispose of the farm as you -suggest, it will, no doubt, be for the best, as the Lockwood family have -become so _high-toned_ that I am afraid they will never _stoop_ (?) to -live on a farm and become _grangers_.” - -In one of his letters written about this date, he makes the following -remark respecting his education at Annapolis: “I don’t think I care -about being present at the meeting of the alumni of my _Alma Mater_, or, -what she would be more pleased with, contributing anything in the way of -money. Enough has been thrown away in teaching me what has never been of -any use. However, the _old woman_ has my good wishes.” - -In another letter, after speaking of an entertainment he had attended, -he said: “I don’t know that I should have enjoyed it, but for the -presence of a very pretty Spanish girl with whom I fell in love; she -danced charmingly, but as she could not speak a word of English, nor I a -word of Spanish, our conversation was somewhat limited.” - -On the 4th of July when arrangements were commenced for removing the -Twenty-third Regiment to Yuma, the lieutenant thus touches upon the -national anniversary: “I have celebrated the day by being very busy -writing up the proceedings of a board of survey, and have a like job on -my hands for to-morrow; indeed, I shall be fully employed now till we -leave. Some of the men, however, have been otherwise employed, viz., in -parading before the guard-house with logs of wood on their backs, as the -reward of a drunken frolic. Our march to Fort Yuma will doubtless be -very disagreeable, and for two weeks we shall have dust and heat -together with the fatigue of travel; but, on the other hand, the daily -march will not be more than fifteen miles, and as we shall be well -provided, I can’t say that I look forward to it with much dread. The -wife of our captain is even now interesting herself in the culinary -arrangements, so I presume the _vitals_ will be good.” From the time of -his uttering this amusing pun until the following September, the letters -of young Lockwood give us no incidents of special interest, and we now -follow him into the State of Nebraska, his regiment having been assigned -to the favorite post of Omaha. - - - - - III. - ARMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA. - - -Having entered upon duty at the barracks of Omaha, he seems to have made -himself especially useful there, while enjoying some of the comforts of -civilization, including good society. On the 25th of September, he wrote -that he had been busy for a week as the recorder of a court-martial. “We -settled nine cases, and, while we now stand adjourned _sine die_, I -suppose the court will soon be reconvened to try half a dozen more men -against whom charges have been preferred. There have been, since my -arrival here, as many as sixty men in the guard-house, and -courts-martial are the order of the day. I have to attend drills, etc., -every day, and hence my leisure and opportunities for visiting the town -have been limited. However, I did go last night to a concert in town -given for the benefit of the grasshopper sufferers, several of these -sufferers from the country being present. You can not realize what a -nuisance these insects are in this country. I have not yet seen them in -any numbers, or the effects of their ravages, but I am told they -sometimes actually stop the railway-trains. The incredible number of -bed-bugs in this country is another curious fact. I sleep so soundly -that they do not disturb me. They infest every house at the post, and -they are also numerous in the city, the fences between here and there -being painted in many places, ‘Go to Smith’s for the great bed-bug -buster.’” He became a favorite in the refined society of Omaha, at that -time on the confines of civilization, but appearing to him like a bit of -New York city cut off and set down in the wilderness, where, only a few -years before, the buffalo ranged in his native freedom. During his -residence at Omaha, young Lockwood was on the most friendly terms with -all his fellow-officers, with one exception. After giving his father a -very manly account of that trouble, he writes a paragraph about himself -in these words: “With regard to myself, I find this army-life about what -I expected. It has its pleasures and its crosses. I should prefer the -cavalry to the infantry, and am sorry I did not apply for that arm of -the service. I should like to remain in the army two or three years -longer, I think, and yet, with a good opening, might do better in civil -life. Promotion is very slow, and the accumulation of anything is not -easy. These, of course, are rude impressions and but half formed, but, -as you ask for impressions, I feel bound to give them just as they are. -I have not been in the army long enough to rise, nor have I had the -opportunity to gain any particular reputation, but suppose mine is as -good as the average—that is, I think I have displayed as much aptitude -for my profession as is generally exhibited by men of average ability, -for of such I regard myself—perhaps below the average. I hope this -peroration will answer your inquiries, and prove satisfactory in that -respect. Excuse the necessary egotism. I will thankfully receive any -advice or corrections which the reading of this, or your acquaintance -with my characteristics, may suggest. I feel as though I had written a -lot of foolishness; if you think so, please excuse.” - -To the writer of this personal history, it seems as if such sentiments -as the above could come only from a young man endowed with the highest -instincts of ambition, honor, and true manhood, and can not but be -considered, with others of like character, as a suitable passport into -the land of Odin and the glories of Valhalla. - -During his stay at Omaha, Lieutenant Lockwood was detailed by General -Ord, the commanding officer, to visit those counties of Nebraska where -grasshoppers had destroyed the crops, for the purpose of determining to -whom contributions which had been sent to the general should be given. -In this journey of several hundred miles, made in the coldest weather, -he visited the several county towns, met the citizens, and afterward -laid before the general such testimony as to the destitute, that the -bounty was distributed to the satisfaction of all. While on this duty, -he traveled ninety miles in twenty-four hours. The county people with -whom he conducted business, he designated as “Grasshoppers.” He greatly -enjoyed the prairie scenery through which he passed, especially the -valley of the Blue. - -On the approach of Christmas at Omaha, our young friend had an attack of -chills and fever, which sent him to his bed. After deploring that he -could not perform his duties on the pending court-martial, he gives us -this holiday information: “Yesterday was Christmas, and I am glad that -the day comes but once a year. With a large party I was occupied until -late in the afternoon making the rounds of the many houses here at the -post. In the evening, I ate a fine dinner at General Ord’s, and on top -of that, danced in the parlor until eleven or twelve o’clock, and, as a -consequence, am coming on as officer of the guard to-day with a most -gorgeous headache. So much for Christmas. I have received two or three -presents, but have made none myself, from want of funds. I just now -heard a tremendous crash, and, on going out, found a fine lunch, sent by -Mrs. Ord, scattered on the ground, and in the midst of the _débris_ of -broken glass and china, the unfortunate bearer, who had slipped and -fallen on the ice in front of the door. I was not particularly sorry on -my own account, as I could not have eaten the good things ‘anyhow.’ Upon -the whole, Christmas has passed away as it usually does, pleasantly, -though at the expense of many unfortunate turkeys. I am sorry I could -not send home any presents, my pecuniary affairs being in a straitened -condition. I should like very much to be at home about this time. I -often wish I could hear Lidie and Anna sing, although I suppose I would -find the girls, including Julia and Mary, much changed.” - -Remembering young Lockwood’s remarks about whisky-drinking in New York, -the following statement is worth quoting: “Most of the ladies at the -post received visitors on New-Year’s-day, either singly or in groups. -One marked feature of the day was the general absence of liquor, its -place being supplied by coffee, chocolate, and other refreshments of a -more solid and less stimulating character. I noticed the same thing in -town, or rather that at those places where I saw liquor, the ladies were -less urgent than is usually the case in pressing it upon the gentlemen. -However, there is less drinking at this post than at any other I have -seen, as large as it is. Although, with few exceptions, all drink here, -it is done quietly at home and without excess.” - -As our young friend had narrowly escaped with his life from drowning at -Annapolis, so did he from the pranks of an unruly horse at the Omaha -Barracks. He was about mounting the horse for a ride, when the animal -started on the run before he could get into the saddle, when he was -thrown forward upon his head. The trouble was owing to a defect in the -bridle. In accounting for his escape, he remarked that his thick head -was what saved his life. True to his native pluck, he tackled the same -horse a number of times afterward, until the animal—a special -favorite—was subdued. - -In the month of June, 1875, it would seem as if something like -homesickness was weighing down his spirits, for he then began to write -about employment in civil life. Not that he disliked the army, but he -longed for some business that would enable him to make a little money. -He thought he could supply a sufficient amount of energy to prosecute a -commercial venture. He felt that there was a great difference between -the roads that lead to wealth and to military glory. If his father -should chance to see an opening that might give him a fortune in a few -days at the expense of a few hundred dollars or some hard work, he -wanted to be promptly notified. He broached these business ideas at that -time merely for the sake of having a subject for discussion when -permitted to visit his home. - -The life at the Omaha garrison, during the summer of 1875, was -comfortable but monotonous. The faithfulness with which the young -officer corresponded with his parents is eminently characteristic of a -dutiful son. When not writing about his surroundings and daily duties, -or sketching the character of his associates, he ventured to discuss -business matters with his father, frequently volunteering a bit of -advice. He often alluded to the Annapolis farm and to people and events -connected with Georgetown, now a part of Washington City, where he -expected the family to remain permanently. On every subject discussed, -he manifested a clear head, and enlivened his more serious talk with an -occasional joke, for which he seemed to have a fondness. In expressing -his opinions on men and things, it seemed impossible for him to hesitate -or equivocate; he always went directly to the point, and, though -charitable, he could not refrain from looking out for the demands of -justice, as, for example, when alluding to the death of a man who had -been untrue to himself and friends, he said “to die was about the best -thing he could do.” As to his jokes, they were not confined to his -private letters, as will be shown by one of them practiced upon the post -trader during a dull period in the garrison. The trader in question, a -young fellow, had removed the balls from the pistol of one of his -clerks, with the intention of playing a ghostly trick upon him that -night. He told Lockwood and another friend of his intention, and they -determined to turn the tables upon the trader. They notified the clerk, -and at midnight the amateur ghost rose from his bed, enveloped himself -in a white sheet, and stole softly into the room of the _unsuspecting_ -clerk. Just then an improvised noise was made outside the door, when the -clerk seemingly awoke with an exclamation of terror at seeing the ghost. -The report of the pistol was duly followed by the return of the ball -held in hand, _à la ghost_, but immediately after, the poor ghost found -himself completely drenched with a bucket of water, which had been -coolly set aside for that purpose. At this unexpected turn of affairs, -the trader fled in the greatest consternation, leaving his “trade-mark” -behind, and, as he passed out of the door, received a second pail of -water from one of his ghostly companions. The result was that it took a -long time for him to dry his saturated skin, and a much longer for his -title of Mr. Ghost to be lost by the garrison boys. Not long after the -above incident, this personage found that there was not “the ghost of a -chance” of his continuing in business, as he became insolvent and had to -retire. It would appear that while many of these military merchants on -the frontiers have a chance to make fortunes, those who are located near -a city like Omaha find it difficult to make both ends meet in their -business affairs. - -On reading the proceedings of Congress during the winter of 1875, he -writes to his father as follows: “Congress seems to be looking around -for some scape-goat on which to pile the odium of the millions -legislated away, and, as usual, pitches on the army. It seems to be the -opinion here, however, that no reduction will take place this winter. If -Congressmen consulted occasionally others than the staff-officers living -in Washington with regard to military affairs, they might find out the -true whereabout of the tremendous rat-hole which swallows up annually -the sum of thirty-four millions of dollars. It does not go to support -the army proper, but to support that enormous, overgrown, expensive -adjunct of the army, the staff, which, created merely for the -administration of the _army_, now masters that which it was intended to -subserve, and has become superior to it in rank and influence, and in -everything that rank and influence can bring. But Congress seems to be -blind to the fact that expenditures are credited to the army, under the -army appropriation bill, which have no legitimate connection with it, -and which would still be required if no army existed. Why is it that the -army is the perpetual foot-ball of these demagogues? Is it thus, at -every session, to be bantered about by those who do not understand the -requirements of the country in this respect? Is not the causing of this -periodical uncertainty respecting his fate the most pernicious thing -that Congress can do to an officer? O consistency, thou art a jewel! How -is it that the navy and other branches of the public service are not -subject to this constant tinkering? But I am not in Congress, and had -better subside.” The assertions here made can not be controverted, and, -coming from a young man who had but recently passed his majority, prove -him to be the possessor of very substantial abilities. He also expressed -decided opinions in regard to various noted officials charged with -improper conduct in Washington at the time alluded to, all of which have -been sustained by subsequent developments. - -Remembering what he said about the drinking customs of Omaha, on -New-Year’s-day, 1875, it is pleasant to have him record the fact, on the -2d of January, 1876, that “the most noticeable feature during the -previous day, in society, was the entire absence, at most houses, of any -intoxicating liquors, and that he did not see a case of drunkenness -during the entire day—a thing very rare even in the cities of the East.” -On a subsequent occasion, he mentions the fact that, when one of his -sergeants had been drinking to excess, he put him in arrest, but -released him the next day, after warning him of the consequences of a -repetition of the offense, and “preaching him a sermon on the evils of -intoxication, moral, mental, and physical.” On one occasion, when his -father had asked how he spent his leisure time in the barracks, he -replied that he read, so as to combine pleasure with profit, played on -his flute, and studied the art of short-hand, which had long been a -hobby with him, and was to be in the future an important accomplishment. -In an effort to read Draper’s “Intellectual Development of Europe,” he -could only manage about one half of the work, and to counteract its -dullness resorted to a novel, “The Wandering Jew.” As he was frequently -called upon to act as recorder of the military court, he found his -knowledge of stenography very useful and very much of a relaxation, and, -on receiving a letter from one of his sisters which was good but not -very plainly written, he said that he had been able to make it out by -means of his skill in shorthand writing. As to his studies, he had -formed a regular plan for prosecuting them, but was constantly -interrupted by extra official duties. Among other things, he devoted -himself to the German language, and subsequently to French, and attained -considerable proficiency. An idea of his habits of industry may be -gathered from what he wrote to his father, when the General was placed -on the retired list of the navy: “So you are retired this month. You -ought to open an office, or do something to occupy your mind. Every one -needs something in the way of business or duty. You will soon get tired -of reading continuously.” On the approach of spring, and with the -expectation of obtaining a leave of absence during the coming summer, he -resumed a discussion with his father about leaving the army for civil -employment. He had entered it well posted in regard to its -disadvantages, and chiefly for the sake of having something to do. He -had now become more deeply impressed than before that promotion was so -slow, that his prospects of increased rank and pay offered no -inducements to any young man of energy and industry, qualities which he -certainly possessed. He was not then ready for decisive action, but he -was determined to support himself, and would, therefore, be on the -lookout for advantageous prospects in some other line of employment. In -one of his letters, after commenting upon the school which two of his -sisters were attending, he gives us this bit of experience: “I am a -school-teacher myself; my pupils, the non-commissioned officers of the -company. They waste the midnight oil, however, only in _boning_ the -tactics. I go down and dilate and expatiate very profoundly on the -reasons and logic of this and that. This is a pleasant school to have; -the authority and influence of the officer have their full weight in the -ordinary school-room as elsewhere in the army.” In May, 1876, after -giving an account of a proposed demonstration, under General Crook, -against the Indians on the Yellowstone, he thus relieves his mind: -“Would that I belonged to the cavalry! I like motion, action, and -variety. To be sure, I would rather be here (in Omaha) than where the -other companies are, but still would rather be in the field than here.” -In June, 1876, the monotony of his life was relieved by an order to take -some convicts to the State prison near Fort Leavenworth, which he -described as the largest post in the country, containing the post -proper, the department headquarters, and the military prison. The State -prison is about six miles from the town. “Here,” he writes, “are sent -all the enlisted men who are dishonorably discharged, convicted of -theft, or other not purely military offenses. The inclosure is an -immense yard, surrounded by a high stone wall—the building, which is on -one side, having an appearance somewhat like the Smithsonian -Institution. In the inclosure are various other buildings, each one used -as a workshop for some trade, almost all the common trades being -represented. The prisoners, numbering about five hundred, are together -in the daytime, but not at night, and are not allowed to talk with each -other. It was from this prison that the best features of the new -military prison were obtained, the board of officers on the management -of the prison at Fort Leavenworth having decided it to be the best one -to imitate.” - -In the autumn of 1876, when he was granted a leave of absence to visit -his parents, they found him in personal appearance wonderfully improved -and developed, the boy of 1873 having become a handsome and accomplished -gentleman. He was not slow, as may be supposed, in making his way to -Philadelphia to visit the Centennial Exposition, which he greatly -enjoyed. - - - - - IV. - ARMY-LIFE IN KANSAS. - - -During Lieutenant Lockwood’s absence on leave, his regiment was -transferred to Fort Leavenworth, and there we find him early in 1877, -and for about two years thereafter. Of course, the garrison life of an -officer, in times of peace, is somewhat monotonous; but the letters -which the lieutenant wrote from this station contain some passages which -are interesting and illustrate his character, as will be seen in the -following pages. Here it should be stated that, during his sojourn at -Fort Leavenworth, he made many pleasant acquaintances, which ripened -into friendship; among them being the widow of an officer, with whom he -boarded for some time, and whose friendship he particularly valued. - -At a time when there was quite a rage at the garrison for private -theatricals, one of the superior officers took the liberty, without -previous consultation, of putting Lockwood on the list of performers, -whereupon he declined the honor, as he thought Nature never intended him -for a star. In speaking of a little difficulty between two of his -friends, he manifests his love of fun by stating that one of them had -denied the allegation and defied the alligator. When commenting upon -some disagreeable March weather, he said, “I don’t think the ground-hog -has seen his shadow, and hence the latter part of the month ought to be -pleasant.” After a remark on the proficiency he was making in the study -of French, he quietly continues, “There are many here who speak it ‘_à -l’Américaine_,’ as if they thought that ‘the chief end of man.’” - -As if never satisfied with his acquirements, he writes in one of his -letters as follows: “My latest hobby is telegraphing. The signal officer -of the department has loaned me a small battery and an instrument. We -have put up the wires and are progressing well. Telegraphy, like -phonography, is easy to transmit after some little practice; but it is -difficult to recognize the sounds as they come over the wire, and it -requires as much practice as it does to recognize the phonographic -characters. I have the instrument on the table before me, and can not -fail to gain some proficiency at any rate.” - -In July, 1877, when the strikers and rioters were making trouble in St. -Louis, Mo., Lieutenant Lockwood’s company and five others were ordered -to that city on duty. After their arrival, they waited in daily -expectation of mowing down the mob, but there was little fighting, as -the police and militia were found to be amply sufficient to subdue all -disturbance. He was greatly pleased with the city and military quarters -of St. Louis, and felt that he would like to remain there on permanent -duty. The feature which pleased him more than any other at St. Louis was -a private garden of about fifty acres, exquisitely planned, and -containing the rarest and most beautiful flowers and trees. The floral -display, there, he thought superior to that at the Centennial -Exposition. The owner, a bachelor named Shaw, nearly eighty years of -age, and a man of enormous wealth, paid out yearly in expenses -twenty-five thousand dollars. At the garden residence of this -millionaire, young Lockwood and a friend were hospitably entertained—a -wonderful contrast to the accommodations at a beer-saloon, near the -arsenal gate, where the army officers were obliged to take their meals -while in the city. Altogether the trip was pleasant, but too expensive -for men with limited means. On their return to Fort Leavenworth from the -Eden-like garden of St. Louis, they were informed of Indian troubles in -Montana, and startled by a rumor that they must soon be off upon a hunt -for Indians—illustrating the vicissitudes of army-life. - -It was about this time that a specimen of American royalty visited Fort -Leavenworth with his daughter, to whom young Lockwood had an opportunity -of being polite. This was a great cattle-man from Texas, who was said to -have fenced in a grazing-farm of a million of acres, and who numbered -his cattle by tens of thousands. His name was King, and his title in all -the West was the “Cattle King of Texas.” The father and daughter were -much interested in an inspection of the fort, where they were hospitably -entertained. From that time onward for several months, the dullness of -garrison-life was only relieved by parties, dinners, and theatrical -amusements in the city, by the presence of an encampment of Indians near -the post, and by attendance at a grand reception and ball given at -Kansas City by the Governor of the State. The letters written by young -Lockwood during all this period are elaborate and full of interest to -his parents, but not enlivened with any incidents of public interest. -The garrison courts seem to have demanded very much of his attention, -because of his skill in taking down testimony by short-hand, and he was -frequently compelled to devote many of his sleeping hours to the duty of -writing out his notes. - -While going from the fort into town one day, he witnessed what he called -an awful spectacle—three little boys in a state of intoxication. This -recalled the fate of one of his former companions in the East, who had -become a drunkard, and in a letter to his father he recorded the -following: “Liquor is certainly a terrible curse; one constantly sees -illustrations of this in the army. You rather startled me in a recent -letter by telling me you had taken the pledge. Had you departed from -your abstemious habits in this respect? was my first thought, but I was -at once relieved by seeing that your allusion was to something else. A -rule that I have had for a long time and seldom depart from, is not to -drink before sunset and never to do so in a saloon. It is rather -superfluous in me to have any such rules, as it is very seldom that I -have a desire to touch spirituous drinks, and then I partake only for -the sake of not appearing to be rude in social matters.” - -On one occasion, after describing a splendid dinner which he had -attended, he branches off upon his own experiences in that line, stating -that he had been caterer for the “Bachelors’ Club” during the current -month, and playing housekeeper for the first time in his life. He was -striving to feed the mess well and to reduce expenses, the individual -assessments amounting to twenty-four dollars. - -“We have a good deal of fun,” he says, “at the mess; among other ways, -by a resolution of the officers that I shall keep a record of the puns, -jokes, profane expressions, etc. Any one indulging in these is put back -or set forward on a regular motion and vote by the members, and any one -getting a record of fifteen has to send to the store for a supply of -cigars. One of the mess, having the bad habit of saying, ‘O Lord!’ and -‘Damn it!’ when excited, gets a great many bad marks, and is made -unhappy. The standard of wit being very high, one seldom ‘goes ahead.’” - -In May, 1878, when it was doubtful what Congress would do about reducing -the army, and Lieutenant Lockwood thought that he might decide to leave -the service, he discussed with his father the question of future -employment. He thought favorably of a position in some telegraph -company, thereby proving that, in all his studies and leisurely -occupations, he was practical, and no visionary. Another idea that he -had was that he might play Cincinnatus, and again go upon the farm. He -also thought of a position in connection with the Signal Service as one -that would suit him should he, from any cause, be compelled to leave the -army; and this suggestion, taken in connection with his subsequent -career, is notable. He went so far, indeed, as to ask his father about -the practicability of securing such a position in that corps, and -desired especially to know all about the necessary qualifications. - -On one occasion, after alluding to the possibility of his being -transferred for duty to some other place, he says that it might be a -good thing for him, as he could not remain at Leavenworth always, and -yet he dreaded to be sent to some “far-distant and isolated post.” When -he wrote those words, how little did he imagine that he would eventually -close his earthly career in a land of supreme desolation within the -Arctic Circle! - -Subsequently—July, 1878—he resumed with special earnestness the -consideration of being detailed for duty in the Signal Service, and, -with his father’s approbation, made the proper application. He thought -the proposed transfer would be of benefit to him in many ways, and if he -failed to make it so, he would very quickly be ordered back to his -regiment. - -In September he was ordered to St. Louis for the purpose of conducting -some recruits westward, and for a short time it was uncertain whether he -would have to go to Texas or the Territory of Wyoming, whereby were -shown the uncertainties which attend life in the army. He took the -recruits to Fort Laramie, and, on his way, was in danger of being -embroiled with the Cheyenne Indians under Sitting Bull, but returned in -safety, by way of his old camp at Omaha, to his company at Fort -Leavenworth. During another trip, which he soon after took with his -company, he saw in western Kansas many Russian immigrants. They were -poor, and had settled at great distances along the streams to be near -water, not always easily found in these regions. They knew nothing of -the recent outbreak of the Indians, and, indeed, many of them had never -seen an Indian. The lieutenant also stumbled upon a colony of Swedes, -and at one place saw three women, whose husbands had been killed by the -Indians, and who were weeping bitterly in their distress. While his -company was on the march he generally kept at the head of the column, -thereby receiving the title of Pedestrian of the Command. Much of the -country over which they traveled was monotonous in the extreme—wide -stretches of prairie reaching to the far horizon. Antelopes and -Jack-rabbits were frequently seen, and sometimes were fired at without -success. But, to his mind, the most wonderful features about the country -were the countless tracks and bones of the buffalo, while not a living -animal was seen. One of his guides informed him that in former times he -had killed three hundred in a single day, so that it was no wonder that -they were now extinct. - -In a letter to one of his sisters, in October, he speaks of his return -from this chase after Cheyenne Indians, and then goes on to mention some -amusing incidents that had occurred at the post, and gives her this bit -of artistic advice: “I hope you will profit by your talent for painting, -_not bury it in the ground, like the foolish steward_. Painting is a -great and very popular accomplishment; there is none perhaps more so.” -No matter what happened in or about the garrison, he seemed always ready -with his common-sense opinions referring to passing events. For example, -after alluding to the burning of a stable, with thirteen mules, when -some of them that had been released ran into the fire from fright, he -thus proceeds: “I was talking ‘over the wire’ with one of the men on our -telegraph line, and what he said is no doubt true, and shows the -short-sightedness of the Government. He said that he and many of the -other soldiers had damaged or lost their clothes, and that if soldiers -were reimbursed for their losses on such occasions, they would work with -much more _vim_ and energy, and that he heard one man say that he would -not lose his new pantaloons for all the mules in the stable. Of course, -in the case of a private house on fire, I believe the enlisted men would -risk everything; but in cases of this kind, where Government property -only is concerned, this feeling has its existence. There is, too, some -reason for this feeling; for, no matter how hard a soldier or officer -may work at a fire to save public property, the Government will not -reward him even by the restitution of his clothes. Nothing short of an -act of Congress would be authority for such an issue.” - -That the heart of this young man was as pure as his mind was bright, may -be seen by reading the following remarks concerning the death of a -little niece: “I learn with deep regret the death of poor little Agnes, -and sympathize heartily with Lidie and her husband in their affliction, -the depth of which none but a parent can know. It should be a -consolation, however, that the disease carried the little one away in -all the innocence of childhood, before her mother’s love had been -intensified with years, and her own intelligence had taught her to love -and cling to life. The sad news reached me on the day of the funeral of -the little daughter of a brother lieutenant. The little baby seemed very -amiable in life, and after death lost none of her sweetness. I sat up -with the remains during the night before the funeral.” Alas! when this -noble-hearted young man gave up his own life, his only night-watchers -were the stars and the icy mountains of the far-distant North! - -In December, 1878, the Twenty-third Regiment received orders for service -in the Indian Territory, and a few weeks afterward entered upon its line -of march. In the mean time, the lieutenant made himself useful in -performing the duties of an engineer for the sanitary benefit of the -Leavenworth garrison. After some appropriate studying, he soon got the -knack of running the levels and measuring angles with the theodolite. He -found these new duties interesting, preferring the field-work to the -making of the necessary profiles and other drawings, involving -measurements to the ¹/₁₀₀₀ of an inch—rather a confining employment. - - - - - V. - ARMY-LIFE IN INDIAN TERRITORY AND COLORADO. - - -From the spring of 1879 until the winter of 1881, Lieutenant Lockwood -spent a part of his time in the Indian Territory, but chiefly in the -State of Colorado. The first duty of his company was to establish a -cantonment on the Canadian River. On their way thither, they made a halt -at Fort Supply, where the country was sparsely settled, and where the -rolling prairies seemed desolate and interminable. Those of his regiment -who had been ordered to Supply, he found in miserable quarters—log-huts -covered inside with canvas—old, cold, and forlorn in appearance inside -and out, and yet the canvas walls thus used and useless were furnished -at a cost of hundreds of dollars. After leaving that place for the -Canadian River, he was made the engineer officer, and, with a view of -making a map of the route and surrounding country, devoted his time to -the science of topography, being rewarded by the hearty approbation of -the officer in command. - -He had counted upon having some good hunting on this route for turkeys -and other game, but was disappointed, owing to the fact, as was -supposed, that several hundred Indians had passed through the country -some weeks before and had gobbled up everything, including a host of -_gobblers_. On reaching their destination, the company went into camp -under a bluff on the Canadian River, where they were to remain until -buildings could be erected in the immediate vicinity. At the conclusion -of his first letter written home from this camp, he says, “I am lying at -full length on a buffalo-robe with my paper on ‘Daniel Deronda,’ and the -position is not comfortable.” - -In June, Lieutenant Lockwood was sent with a small party to Post Reno, -where troubles were apprehended with the Indians. It was not necessary -to do any fighting there, however, for the reason that the chief -inhabitants of the region were rattlesnakes, tarantulas, and -prairie-dogs, and the Indians in the vicinity did not seem to be in a -blood-thirsty mood. Returning to the cantonment on the Canadian River, -he was depressed by the discomforts of the place—no society and many -extra duties—but he, nevertheless, found time and inclination to study -the Spanish language, as if determined not to leave a stone unturned in -his efforts to make himself useful, or ready for any emergency. After -confessing his fondness for social intercourse, he writes: “At times I -get the _ennui_ and _blues_ very much. Still I try to preserve a -philosophic mind, and when the dark side of the picture presents itself, -I take a different stand-point, and thus force myself to see, by -contrast, the bright side. I find, and ever have found, that the more -occupied I am, the better contented I feel.” - -In April, 1880, he went upon a kind of exploring expedition, riding in -ten days a distance of nearly three hundred miles, and on returning was -glad enough to have a little rest in his camp. But, before he could fall -into any idle habits, he was ordered westward, with his command, on -still more arduous duties. In a letter from a camp near Saguache, on the -borders of Colorado, he sent home the following account of what he had -seen and experienced: “We left Fort Garland on the 17th of May, and have -since been traveling across ‘San Luis Park,’ the ‘Valley of the Gods.’ -This is a vast level plain in southern Colorado, surrounded on all sides -by high, snow-capped mountains, which always seem within a few hours’ -travel, and yet are miles and miles away. When one considers that Blanco -Peak is over fourteen thousand feet above the sea-level, one does not -wonder that it is very plainly seen from where I am now writing. This -Paradise of the Gods is some two hundred miles long by over sixty -across, and is a veritable desert. I have met nothing like it outside of -Arizona. The vegetation consists of greasewood and sage-brush—sometimes -not even this; the irrigation-ditches that one meets near the few -streams seem hardly able to produce a feeble, stunted grass. For miles -and miles, all is pulverized dust, which, blown by the winds in blinding -clouds, covers everything like the ashes of a volcano. Night before last -one of these _pleasant_ zephyrs blew down several of the tents, and -filled the air so thickly with dust, that several of the command, who -had their hats blown off, were unable to find or recover them. They say -it sometimes rains here, but I very much doubt it. The few ranches we -have encountered are on streams descending from the mountains, which -sink in the plain after running a short distance; and bordering them are -the squalid adobe houses, the only habitations in the country. - -“Improbable as it may seem, the owners say that they raise potatoes, -etc. Surely these mountains should be of gold and silver to compensate -for the sterility of the soil.” The prospect did not make Lockwood -hilarious, and he frankly said that he was tired of army-life, and that -eating almost nothing but bacon, and going without any comforts caused -him to sigh for a return to the old Annapolis farm. He had not the -ambition to enjoy the glory of army-life in such a wilderness. It might, -indeed, give one a competency, but it was a gold-mine in Arizona that -had recently given a fortune of fifty thousand dollars to one of the -officers of his regiment. After a short stay at Garland and Alamosa, and -catching a glimpse of the Del Norte, the command reached the Cochetapa -Pass, near Los Pinos and the summit of the Rocky Mountains; and now the -lieutenant began to experience a kind of mountain-fever, which he called -a weird condition of the system. He was troubled with the shortness of -breath usual at great altitudes. The six hundred mules drawing the train -of one hundred wagons had great difficulty in passing through what he -called the terrible cañons. Early in June, 1880, he reached the -Uncompahgre River, where the command encamped. Hardly had he obtained -any relaxation before an order came from Fort Leavenworth, detailing a -general court and making him the judge advocate, thereby proving that -there was not much rest for an officer of recognized ability. While -anxious to make money, he did not, while among the mountains, follow the -example of certain fellow-officers, who devoted some attention to mining -speculations, their mode of operating being as follows: “For example, -they secure the services of a competent man, provide him with food, -etc., and send him out to prospect. Those in the Nineteenth have -received a very flattering letter from their man, who has struck a very -rich vein, _according to his account_. But this and all similar ventures -are mere chance. Money, to the amount of twenty-five or fifty dollars, -seems little to invest in enterprises that may pay thousands; but these -investments count up and are not pleasant to consider when all ends in -failure. One of the officers has invested not less than thirty-three -hundred dollars in this mine-hunting business. He goes it alone, and has -all the enthusiasm of an old miner.” Not caring to waste his money in -speculations of this sort, he improved his leisure in exploring the -scenery of the region, especially some cañons where the walls were -several thousand feet high, and also a stream called Cow Creek, where he -had some superb fishing and caught the largest trout he had ever seen, -while his companions killed a number of deer. Among the scenes in which -he was especially interested was a hot spring which measured thirty feet -across, a waterfall two hundred feet high, and a small mining hamlet -nestled in a pocket of the mountains, and where, funny to relate, he and -his companions were suspected to be tramps or horse-thieves. Returning -to his regular cantonment on the Uncompahgre, he was informed of a -pending trouble with the Ute Indians, when, according to his habit, he -expressed this decided opinion: “If the sentimentalists on Indian -questions in the East could be brought out here and made to feel and -suffer the outrages which these savages inflict on isolated settlers, -there would not be so many to support the Interior Department in its -abominable prejudice in all questions of Whites _vs._ Indians.” - -In one of his letters, written from a cantonment in Colorado, he -mentions with pain the temporary fall of one of his brother officers, -who, while playing a game of poker, was charged with dishonesty, thereby -pocketing a hundred dollars. The poor fellow had been placed in arrest -and was to have a trial. In speaking of his manner of killing time in -his Colorado camp, he alludes to the fact of having two setter dogs, -which he was training for use and his own amusement, and further says -that when not playing a game of billiards at the store near the camp, he -spent his time in reading, the books then occupying his attention being, -Tyler’s “Baconian Philosophy,” which he greatly admired; Swinton’s -“History of the Rebellion,” which he criticised with some severity; and -Green’s “Russian Campaign in Turkey,” which interested him greatly. - - - - - VI. - PREPARING FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS. - - -From this point, the story of Lieutenant Lockwood’s life will be chiefly -given from the records which he kept during his sojourn in the Arctic -regions. For reasons which the general reader will appreciate, all -merely technical and official remarks have been omitted, and only those -retained which are calculated to illustrate the personal character of -the man and officer, it being understood that his journals, illustrating -his merits and labors, will be fully set forth in the official history, -to be hereafter published, of the expedition with which he was so -honorably identified. - -In 1880 it was proposed by an International Polar Commission, for the -purpose of elucidating in behalf of science the phenomena of the weather -and of the magnetic needle, that meteorological stations should be -established by various countries in different parts of the polar -regions. The Congress of the United States made an appropriation for -establishing a scientific colony at the two places designated for the -occupation of the Americans—viz., Point Barrow, in Alaska, and Lady -Franklin Bay, in Grinnell Land. These stations were to be occupied for -from one to three years. At the time the expedition was being organized -in Washington for the latter place, Lieutenant Lockwood was on a visit -to his parents in that city. Taking a special interest in the operations -of the Signal-Service Bureau, which had the business in charge, he -forthwith volunteered for the proposed expedition, and his services were -accepted by the Secretary of War. When the party for the Lady Franklin -Bay station was fully organized, it consisted of First-Lieutenant -Adolphus W. Greely, U. S. A., commander; Lieutenants F. F. Kislingbury -and James B. Lockwood, U. S. A., as assistants; and Dr. O. Pavy, as -surgeon and naturalist; with a force of twenty-two sergeants, corporals, -and privates, all connected with the army, and whose names are given as -follows: Edward Israel, Winfield S. Jewell, George W. Rice, David O. -Ralston, Hampden S. Gardiner, sergeants in the Signal Corps; William H. -Cross, sergeant in the general service; David L. Brainard and David -Linn, sergeants of cavalry; Nicholas Saler, corporal of infantry; Joseph -Ellison, corporal of infantry; Charles B. Henry, Maurice Connell, Jacob -Bender, Francis Long, William Whistler, Henry Biederbick, Julius R. -Fredericks, William A. Ellis, and Roderick R. Schneider, privates in -various branches of the army; and, finally, two Esquimaux, Jans Edwards -and Frederick Christiansen, of Greenland. - -In view of the possibility that Lady Franklin Bay might become a -permanent station, all the preliminary arrangements were made as -complete as possible. A steamer called the Proteus was secured for -conveying the expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, and she was ordered to -await the arrival of the explorers at the port of St. John’s, in -Newfoundland. Lieutenant Lockwood sailed in a steamer from Baltimore -with the party and reached St. John’s late in June. - -Here it may not be out of place to submit a few remarks on the utility -of these Arctic explorations, which are sometimes criticised by people -who, without due consideration, jump to hasty conclusions. In former -times their main object was to find open passages between the northern -regions of Europe, Asia, and America, and to settle the problem of the -north pole; and statistics show that when these expeditions have -confined their operations within reasonable limits, the mortality -attending them has been remarkably small—less than in ordinary -commercial voyages. Sir John Franklin went far beyond these limits, and -left no monuments by which he could be traced. De Long put his ship into -the polar ice with the design of moving with the polar drift. The Greely -Expedition was expected to be confined, and was confined, to the -well-known waters of Smith’s Sound. It could, therefore, be reached at -any time, and, if necessary, it could fall back upon a point accessible -at all times. All that was required to secure its safe return was _a -well-chosen base, and an absolute certainty that this base would be -maintained_. Unfortunately, neither requirement was fulfilled, and hence -nineteen men lost their lives. Sledge-journeys from established bases, -though fraught with great labor and discomfort, have never been attended -with serious loss of life. It is now about one thousand years since the -first Arctic voyage was made, and their aggregate usefulness can hardly -be questioned when we remember that they have developed fisheries that -have built up the commerce and navies of nations, and that the direct -return into the exchange of England has been far more than the cost to -her of all her Arctic explorations. The Polar Commission, already -alluded to, inaugurated a new policy in regard to Arctic explorations, -and one whose utility can not be questioned. It had its origin, in 1875, -in the mind of a German discoverer named Carl Weyprecht; and in the -opinion of many of the leading minds of the world, the meteorological -observations inaugurated by him have done much, and will do much more, -to rectify errors in the polar problem and bring to light information -about the ice zones, which will give the observers a prominent position -in scientific history. According to Professor Joseph Henry, the problems -connected with physical geography and science, which are yet unsolved, -are the determination of the figure and of the magnetism of the earth, -complete knowledge of the tides of the ocean, the winds of the globe, -and the influence of extreme cold on animal and vegetable life. Surely -the men who voluntarily toil and suffer in their efforts to obtain the -needed light on all these subjects, are quite as worthily employed as -those who struggle for riches or political fame. In the Professor’s -opinion, all the branches of science above mentioned are indirectly -connected with the well-being of man, and tend not only to enlarge his -sphere of mental activity, but to promote the application of science to -the arts of life. A French writer, after applauding the plans of the -Polar Commission, concludes his remarks as follows: “The larger number -of the civilized nations are striving by scientific means to wrest the -mysterious secrets of the deep from the hidden recesses of the North.” -In 1884 the number of nations that had entered heartily into the project -was thirteen; fifteen polar stations, and over forty auxiliary stations, -had already been established. That the reader may fully understand the -operations and exploits which are to be chronicled in the subsequent -pages of this volume, it may be well to submit the subjoined extract -from the official report of General W. B. Hazen, Chief of the United -States Signal Service, for the year 1881: “Owing to the very mobile -nature of the atmosphere, the changes taking place on one portion of the -globe, especially in the Arctic zone, quickly affect regions very -distant therefrom. The study of the weather in Europe and America can -not be successfully prosecuted without a daily map of the whole northern -hemisphere, and the great blank space of the Arctic region upon our -simultaneous international chart has long been a subject of regret to -meteorologists. The general object is to accomplish, by observations -made in concert at numerous stations, such additions to our knowledge as -can not be acquired by isolated or desultory traveling parties. No -special attempt will be made at geographical exploration, and neither -expedition is in any sense expected to reach the north pole. The single -object is to elucidate the phenomena of the weather and of the magnetic -needle as they occur in America and Europe, by means of observations -taken in the region where the most remarkable disturbances seem to have -their origin.” - -While the foregoing were to be considered as the primary considerations, -it was expressly stated in the official instructions, that sledging -parties, generally, should work in the interests of exploration and -discovery, and should be conducted with all possible care and fidelity. -Careful attention was also to be given to the collection of specimens of -the animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms. It will be seen that all -that was accomplished by Lieutenant Lockwood was instigated by the -mandate connected with the use of the sledge. - -It thus appears that the Greely expedition was not only intended to -accomplish a good work, but that in all human probability the same might -have been accomplished without serious loss of life. That there was a -deplorable loss of life, we can only lament, leaving for others to point -out the causes of the disaster which befell the expedition. - - - - - VII. - FROM NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. - - -All things being ready, the Greely Expedition left St. John’s, -Newfoundland, for Lady Franklin Bay, on Thursday, July 7, 1881, in the -steamer Proteus, Captain Pike. She was a barkentine, measuring two -hundred and fifty feet in length, and having a burden of six hundred -tons. Built in Scotland for the whaling and sealing service, she had -already made several successful voyages within the Arctic Circle and on -the Labrador coast. The departure of the ship elicited no demonstration -from the people on the dock, excepting a few cheers from some -warm-hearted fishermen. Whether the good people of Newfoundland were -disgusted because they could not sell any more supplies at extravagant -prices, or were displeased with the Yankee explorers for presuming to -compete with Englishmen in the icy North, are questions not to be easily -solved. - -During his stay in St. John’s, Lieutenant Lockwood wrote a letter to his -mother, in which he gave the following account of the city: - -“St. John’s is a queer and forlorn old place; everything is antiquated, -slow, and behind the times in every respect. The few hotels are more -like third-class boarding-houses; a livery-stable is not to be found in -this city of thirty thousand. This condition of affairs is said to be -due to the religion of the place, which is Roman Catholic. It is charged -that ignorance and poverty are what this church most thrives on, and it -is certainly a thriving church here. The other day the shops were all -closed, and the place assumed the appearance of Sunday—it was a holy day -for their patron saints, Peter and Paul. Only two classes here—the poor -and the rich—and everything accords with the former class. Crooked -streets and mean, forlorn, dirty houses everywhere. The only respectable -public buildings are the Catholic churches and the convents.” - -With the wind favorable, the sea calm, the sky clear, and all in good -spirits, away went the vessel on her voyage to the North. A -steam-launch, called the Lady Greely, rested securely on the main deck. -It was arranged that the sergeants of the expedition should sleep in the -cabin, eating at the second table, and the rest of the men live forward; -and, though somewhat crowded, it was hoped they would all be -comfortable. During the first twenty-four hours, two hundred miles were -made. Lieutenant Greely and most of the men were sea-sick. At sunset on -the second day out, the first iceberg was seen, and attracted the -special attention of the land-lubbers. On the 9th, gales from the -northwest set in, and the sick men became worse—the thermometer marking -forty degrees, the air being damp and uncomfortable. The wind moderated -in the evening, but left the sea very rough, so that the steam-launch -had to be secured in her cradle by braces. Although then in the track of -the St. Lawrence trade, not a single vessel was seen, suggesting the -idea that business was not flourishing. As to Lieutenant Lockwood, he -was in good spirits, and amused himself by reading Kennan’s interesting -book on Siberian life. On the following day the sea went down, and the -sick men came up from their berths and were able to resume their places -at the table, Lockwood and Kislingbury being the only ones who had -escaped sea-sickness. When the former had finished Kennan’s book, he -took up Barrow’s “Voyage within the Arctic Circle,” reading it in the -presence of several icebergs, which appeared as if they intended to -welcome the band of Yankee adventurers to their inhospitable domain. - -On the morning of the 11th, notwithstanding the promise of fine summer -weather, the sky became overcast, and at noon the captain, assisted by -the volunteers, including Lockwood, Israel, and Gardiner, could hardly -succeed in getting observations, and though they reckoned the latitude -at 58°, it was not reliable. Rain, attended with high winds or gales, -succeeded, the sufferers from sea-sickness finding refuge in their -berths. Ellis, one of the sergeants, suffered more than the others, -having refused all food since leaving port. They could give him no aid -save a little wine and beef-tea. The cold, cheerless weather depressed -the spirits of all, but they hoped to get used to it. The days were -sensibly growing longer, beginning at 1.45 A. M. and closing at 10 P. M. -They now remarked the absence of icebergs and ice-floes, and wondered -whether this meant that the previous winter in the north had been so -mild that but little ice had formed, or that the spring had been so -backward that but little had become detached and drifted southward. They -had learned at St. John’s that the late winter had been the mildest ever -known there. At the close of the 11th, no land was in sight, and they -had made seven hundred miles. The steward informed Lockwood that the men -were growling about their food, which was the same as that received in -the cabin. He thought this a bad sign for Arctic explorers, but tried to -make matters more satisfactory. - -The next day was disagreeable, a cold rain falling; and though a strong -head-wind was blowing, the sea was smooth, betokening land or ice, it -was supposed. Accordingly, at 9 P. M., they were aroused by the cry of -“ice ahead,” and, sure enough, there was seen, extending over 90° of the -horizon, the white line indicating an ice-floe. Coming up to the ice, -they found it to consist of detached pieces flowing southward. Some of -these assumed the most fantastic shapes—dogs, seals, and other animals, -and even houses and castles, readily presenting themselves to the -imagination. One piece looked like an old ruin. The pillars, dome, and -vaulted roof, all were there; indeed, the effect was perfect. Again, -other pieces presented varieties of color most beautiful and remarkable. -Generally, the lower parts being dark blue, were surmounted by a stratum -of pure white, resembling snow, but really the purest ice. They were two -hours in getting through this floe. Although daylight was continuous, -they could not, because of fogs, distinguish the hours of sunrise or -sunset. - -On the following day the weather was still cloudy, and another ice-floe -detained them two hours. They also saw many isolated pieces and large -icebergs in the distance. This ice, it was said, came from the east -coast of Greenland with a current which, flowing around Cape Farewell, -passes up the west coast half way to Disco. It still proved interesting -to the voyagers by reason of its fantastic shapes and diversified -colors—white, blue, and green. It rose a few feet above the water-line, -and the submerged portion of the floe colored the water a most beautiful -green. Seals were then seen for the first time, basking in the sun on -the ice. Judging from the increased seas, they expected no more -ice-floes in front. The temperature also indicated this, for it was -sensibly warmer. Lockwood, who seemed never to be idle, now finished -Barrow and took up Captain Nares’s “British Expedition of 1875-’76,” -reading, writing, and Bowditch occupying much of his time. The crow’s -nest was hoisted to the main-top on that day. This was a large barrel or -hogshead with peep-holes on the side and a trap beneath. This afforded -shelter for a man posted there who looked out for the ice and the best -way of getting through it. - -On the 16th, fogs detained them and interfered with noon observations, -but, lifting at three o’clock, they sighted the Greenland coast on the -starboard bow, distant fifteen miles. The coast-line appeared -exceedingly rugged and broken, and the interior, mountainous with deep -ravines running very abruptly down to the sea. The mountain-tops were -covered with snow, but generally the sides were bare of snow except the -ravines, which seemed to be filled up entirely. This range of mountains -reminded Lockwood of the Uncompahgre chain in Colorado as seen from Los -Pinos Valley. They saw the usual number of gulls and a species of duck -called the sea-pigeon, also several whales blowing and spouting in the -distance, surrounded by flocks of small birds which seemed to feed on -their offal. Kislingbury and the steward tried rifles on these whales, -but without success. One whale being near by, with apparent design to -cross the track of the vessel, was met by the rifle-ball, but with no -other effect than to cause him to throw up his tail and dive below the -surface. The thermometer rose to 50° on that day, rendering the deck, -where all were assembled to view the prospect, quite comfortable. They -then first witnessed the sunset since leaving St. John’s, because of the -fogs and clouds that had constantly attended the voyage. The sun’s disk -seemed greatly flattened just as it disappeared at 10.20, and presented -much the appearance of a huge mushroom seen edgewise. Enough of twilight -remained at midnight to render the horizon visible. - -On the 16th, they steamed cautiously through the fog, making but -fourteen knots between noon and 6 P. M. Then the high, bold bluffs -forming the southern coast of Disco Island loomed up in the distance -directly ahead. These bluffs are almost vertical and probably five -hundred feet high, and are desolate and barren in the extreme. Their -continuity is interrupted only by deep ravines, or cañons, which break -through at various angles to the sea. They there found themselves in the -midst of a hundred icebergs of every conceivable form and size, and in -color of the purest white, resembling in the distance huge mountains of -chalk. One of the sights that attracted special notice consisted of two -bergs connected by an immense arch high enough overhead for the ship to -sail beneath, reminding Lockwood of the Natural Bridge of Virginia. On -near approach it looked like marble and was quite as smooth. Some time -afterward, and when two miles away, a signal-gun was fired for a pilot. -This was followed by a rumbling noise, which caused the voyagers to look -back, when they were surprised to see this immense arch tumble over and -fall into the sea, throwing the spray a hundred feet into the air and -producing a commotion of the sea sensible two miles away, and soon after -followed by a noise like distant thunder. Most truly sublime were both -spectacle and catastrophe! Icebergs are regarded as very dangerous both -by the Esquimaux and by experienced Arctic travelers, and are given a -wide berth. - -[Illustration: Lockwood, Natives, and Kyack at Disco, Greenland.] - -Moving on at a low speed, the steamer was finally boarded by a white man -attended by an Esquimaux, the former introducing himself as Mr. -Gleichen, the Governor of Godhaven, Lively, or Disco, as the capital is -variously called. The vessel was soon twisted through the narrow opening -behind which the town lies, and the voyagers found themselves in the -snuggest and smallest harbor, for its depth of water, that any of the -party had ever seen. On one side were the high cliffs, barren and -rugged, and on the other the few habitations which constituted the -place, the only dwellings presenting an appearance of anything more than -squalid huts being those of the governor and of the inspector, a Mr. -Smith. Besides the dwellings, there were several warehouses and a -church, all of wood. The huts of the natives were to some extent of -wood, but strengthened and made warm by thick walls of sod reaching to -the eaves. - -Greely, Kislingbury, and Lockwood immediately went ashore to visit the -inspector, whose house stood near the water and presented a neat -appearance. Within they found quite an air of comfort and refinement. A -piano, a small billiard-table, a well-filled book-case, carpets, -pictures, and many other evidences of civilization and even elegance -were there. They found the wife of the inspector very pleasant and -speaking English fluently, while her daughter and a governess, though -speaking English with difficulty, were well dressed and ladylike. After -taking wine with these hospitable ladies, the lieutenants left their -commander to continue the conversation and wandered forth to view the -town. Passing without mishap several cross-looking Esquimaux dogs, they -found themselves in what seemed a carpenter’s shop, on the large, bare -floor of which a dance was in progress. After playing spectators for -some time they indulged in a waltz with the prettiest girls in the room, -and were surprised and pleased to find how well they got along together. -Their round dances were found to be like many figures of the “German” as -danced in the United States. Kislingbury gave the natives an exhibition -of the Indian dance, and thus became a favorite with them. - -The dress of the men consisted of a pair of sealskin pantaloons and a -woolen or checked shirt. That of the women was very peculiar—indeed, -unique. One of the girls, whose dress may be taken to illustrate all, -wore a pair of seal-skin pantalets bound at the hips by a red scarf and -terminating just above the knees, where they met the white canvas tops -of a pair of boots, or rather leggings. These reached to the calf, and -there met the tops of red seal-skin bootlets, into which they were -inserted. These leggings were starched and prettily fringed at the top, -and their color indicated the state as to matrimony of the wearer, white -being reserved for maidens, and colors for those that were married. This -distinction was afterward found to be general. The pantalets were plain, -except some red leather pieces sewed on in front by way of ornament. The -upper garment consisted of a pretty, fancy-colored cassock, or jacket, -extending barely to the hips, replaced in cold weather by the same of -seal-skin with a hood. The upper part of the jacket was concealed by a -necklace, or rather by several necklaces, sewed together flat, which -formed a collar covering the bosom and shoulders. The head was covered -by a kind of chaplet formed of fancy-colored cloth, and the hair was -done up in a queue, which extended upward and backward from the top of -the head, and was tied with colored ribbon. The wrists and neck were -encircled with boas of dark-colored furs, which contrasted well with the -bright-colored skin. The arms were bare to the short sleeves of the -jacket, and on the fingers were a number of rings. So much for the Disco -belles! - -The dancing officers did not reach their ship until after midnight, and -soon after the sun rose, flooding all nature with his glorious light, -and seemingly affecting natives and strangers alike, for both were seen -standing around to admire and enjoy the benediction of nature. - -Inspector Smith visited the steamer, dressed in a military coat with -brass buttons, and military cap with wide gold-lace band, but wearing -seal-skin trousers. The strangers soon found themselves surrounded by a -fleet of Esquimaux boats, called _kyacks_, resembling in form a cigar -cut in half lengthwise and turned up at both ends. The framework of wood -was covered with seal-skin with the hair removed. In the center was a -hole into which the occupant inserted the lower part of his body to the -hips, drawing up at the same time a cylindrical piece of seal-skin which -was attached to the rim of the hole. When the top of this is gathered up -and secured over his chest, the man and boat are practically one, and -both are water-proof under all circumstances. The upper surface of the -kyack is but an inch or two above the water when smooth, and when rough, -of course it is frequently submerged entirely. In this craft the kyacker -braves the billows of the open sea, and, provided with lance and harpoon -to slay his game, and bladder and rope to mark its flight when struck -and buoy up its body when killed, he attacks the seal, walrus, or even -the narwhal. In South Greenland, where there is more open water, the -kyackers become very expert, and, by means of their short, two-bladed -paddles, can easily right themselves when upset, or even perform a -complete revolution without changing position or posture. - -On Sunday, the 17th, Lieutenant Lockwood called on the governor, and -then went into many of the houses of the place; he found the natives -polite and hospitable, living in clean, well-built huts, whose interior -presented nothing peculiar except that about one third of the floor was -raised a few feet, constituting a platform, which was used as the -sleeping-couch of the whole family by night, and by day as a place of -deposit for articles in daily use. The walls were adorned with rough -prints or illustrations from European and American papers. In one house -was seen a translation of the Psalms into Esquimaux. Their words are run -together, as in the German language. Lockwood made some purchases, -giving in return an old pair of pantaloons, old clothes being a -circulating medium, and preferred to money. He was surprised to find -that these people had a paper currency, the units being the ocre and the -crown, one hundred ocres making one crown, while the crown is worth -about an English shilling. In dealing with one another, the ocre seems -to go a good way, but not so when a stranger is dealt with; and to do -much shopping with this currency, one must carry a load of paper equal -to what was required of Confederate currency in wartimes to buy a barrel -of flour. The coins were of copper, valued each at five ocres. - -On the following day, Lieutenants Greely, Kislingbury, and Lockwood, all -dined at four o’clock with the inspector’s family, by invitation of his -wife, in the absence of her husband on official duty; the courses being -soup, fish, eider-duck, and canned green peas, with a dessert of jelly; -wines and brandy being served with the courses. The cooking and serving -were excellent, the waitress an Esquimaux damsel in pantalets. -Afterward, with others, they called on the governor, and with him went -down to witness a dance. Lockwood learned that the population of the two -divisions of North and South Greenland together was about nine thousand -souls. - -On the 19th, at the request of Lieutenant Greely, Lockwood made an -exploration of the mountain-cliffs south of the town. After a long tramp -over the soggy moss, and up steep cliffs, much annoyed by innumerable -mosquitoes, he returned to dinner, with very little information worthy -of mention. After superintending some stowage, he again called to see -Mrs. Smith, the inspector’s wife, and enjoyed her excellent piano-music, -to say nothing of the wine and cigars she offered. Then he went to the -dance, but not until after the men had left. These Greenland dances, as -already intimated, resemble the Virginia reel, differing only in the -alternate chasing of the partners through the two rows till caught. - -Having completed their stowage and coaling, and having taken on board -fourteen dogs with their food, they would have left Disco but for the -fogs. Dr. Pavy, who had been left there by Howgate, joined the party on -the 20th, as surgeon, as Mr. Clay was expected to do at Ritenbank. They -had some music on the chapel organ in the evening, which was well -rendered. - -The penning of the dogs was a scene of excitement and amusement. Their -snarling and biting and fighting had no end until one of the number -present was acknowledged, for his prowess and valor, the victor by all -the others. Then the battle ceased, but only until there was a new -arrival, when the battle was renewed and the _parvenu_ put _hors de -combat_, or declared king. In due time the steamer left Disco, and -arrived at Ritenbank between 10 and 12 A. M. The harbor was found to be -quite roomy and the entrance wide and deep; icebergs float into it, and -thus render Ritenbank less desirable as a harbor than Disco. While -there, with Mr. Clay (who now joined the expedition) and some of the -men, Lockwood visited the neighboring bird mountains or looneries, -rowing up a fiord some three miles distant. The approach to these was -manifested by the commotion among the innumerable eider-ducks and other -wild fowl flying overhead, swimming in the water around, or occupying -the narrow ledges of the vertical cliffs on either side, some of which -were five hundred feet high and covered with birds. The shot used being -too small, would kill only at short range, and it was difficult to -obtain the game; consequently they got only seventy fowls of various -kinds. On their return they visited an Innuit burying-ground, which, -from its antiquity, must contain many of the natives, whose blood is -much purer than that of the present stock; for it is said the present -Esquimaux blood is now very much mixed. The graves were oblong piles of -lichen-covered stones, containing the moldering skeletons, which were -generally in a sitting posture. But little regard is paid to the dead in -Greenland. Influenza, and consumption induced thereby, are rapidly -carrying off the natives, and this is increased by uncleanly habits, -improper food, and bad ventilation, the latter aggravated by the -introduction of small stoves into their close houses. The present -longevity, it is said, averages thirty-three years. - -The prevailing fogs greatly decreased the pleasure the explorers would -have had in viewing the grand scenery in the passage to Upernavik, which -they reached on the 23d of July, or in about fifteen days from -Newfoundland. They had in sight numbers of icebergs, some of immense -size. The whole western coast of Greenland is skirted with islands, -separated from each other and the mainland by deep fiords. If it were -not for the fogs, a pleasant summer excursion could be made through -these fiords to the everlasting barrier of glaciers, which render the -interior a veritable land of desolation. - -Very soon after the expedition had arrived at Upernavik, it was found -necessary for some one to go to a place called Proven, to obtain -Esquimaux guides and a supply of Arctic clothing, and to Lieutenant -Lockwood was assigned this duty. He and his helpers boarded the -steam-launch, and, with Governor Elburg as guide, proceeded on their way -through an inner passage leading to the place of destination. Their -course lay along rocky and precipitous cliffs, many of them covered with -auks and other wild fowl. The cliffs attained an elevation of two and -three thousand feet, and were so smooth and regular as to have the -appearance of having been made by man. Without any shore whatever, large -ships could lie alongside in safety. On their arrival at Proven, they -saw the whole population in their picturesque costumes lining the shore, -to view what they had never seen before—a craft moving without oars or -sails. - -Near the shore were located four large warehouses where seal-oil was -deposited before shipment, and where also were kept by the Danish -Government supplies of provisions for issue to the natives in case of -emergency. The huts of the natives were found still more primitive than -those at Disco, for here the entrance was through a long, low gallery, -requiring one to grope in darkness almost on hands and knees. Lockwood -softened the heart of the occupant of one by presents of tobacco, and -induced him to play on his fiddle simple airs which he had picked up -from whaling-crews. This brought in all the damsels of the town, and -soon waltzes and other dances prevailed. The lieutenant did not consider -it beneath his dignity to “show a heel.” He unfortunately answered -affirmatively to the question, “Are you big captain?” and was also -imprudent in giving an old lady a half-dozen ocres. He was at once -pounced upon by every one as lawful prey, and, what through begging, -extortion, and other means, the “big captain” was soon rid of all his -change, and might have been reduced to a state of nudity but for the -timely arrival of the governor, who took him home to dine and to lodge. -The soup, though sweet to the taste, was good; floating in it were -lemon-peel and raisins. Next came reindeer-steaks cooked in wine and -most delicious. Potatoes were the only vegetable. Cooking and serving -excellent. Brandy, beer, and wine in profusion. The meal terminated by a -general hand-shaking, according to custom, and the governor kissed his -wife. The lodging was equally agreeable, affording the luxury of a clean -feather bed. In the morning, and while yet in bed, a young Esquimaux -damsel in pantalets brought the American a cup of strong coffee with a -few crackers. That day he took on board the launch two Esquimaux, -Frederick Christiansen and Jans Edwards, lashing their kyacks behind, -also the seal-skin, dog-skin, and other clothing they had come for, and -at midnight left amid the hearty cheers of the natives and the tears and -lamentations of the friends of Jans and Frederick who had come to see -them off. - -After an uneventful passage, and stopping only to add one hundred and -twenty-seven birds to their larder, the launch reached the ship at 10 A. -M. on the 25th. Lieutenant Kislingbury and a crew in the whale-boat -afterward went to Sanderson’s Hope Island and secured several hundred -more, so that there was no scarcity of fresh food. In the mean time some -new dogs were secured, so that the total number now on hand was -thirty-two. - -The ship left Upernavik on the 29th, and, keeping the inner passage, -made her way toward the north. - -While crossing Melville Bay on the 30th, there was no ice in sight -except bergs, and the sun shone brightly. That state of things was a -great surprise to the explorers, as here it was that McClintock was -frozen in for a whole year, and Nares congratulated himself in having -passed the bay without detention. Indeed, Melville Bay has always been -regarded as the _bête noire_ of Arctic travel. An Arctic bear found on a -broken pack of floating ice was killed by Lieutenant Kislingbury, and, -when hoisted on board, was found to weigh a thousand pounds and to -measure seven feet two inches in length. They were probably fifty miles -from land at the time. - -On the last day of July, the Proteus party sighted land, which they -supposed to be Cape Dudley Diggs, north of Melville’s Bay. Much old -floating ice was seen, but so rotten as to offer no obstruction. Several -seals and many little auks were killed and secured. - -About this time Lockwood and others observed tokens of disrespect and -insubordination on the part of some of the men, which were traced to a -certain corporal as ringleader. Lockwood watched him with care, and -urged the propriety of sending him home by the first opportunity, which -was afterward done. - -On one occasion, toward evening, the voyagers witnessed the overturning -of an iceberg three hundred feet long and one hundred and fifty feet -high. After capsizing, it continued to revolve on several axes for some -time. Its change of base was preceded by the fall of several detached -pieces, thus shifting its center of gravity. - -The next day, August 1st, was clear and cool, and without fog. Passed -Dudley Diggs at noon and then steered for Gary Islands, sighting them -three hours later. The officers looked hard for the crimson cliffs near -Dudley Diggs noticed by Sir John Ross, but observed only some slight -discoloration of the snow. The glacier near this cape seemed to be two -or three miles long; at the sea-shore, of inconsiderable height, but in -the background, attaining an imposing elevation. The ship’s compasses, -as usual in this latitude, were all crazy, occasioning some bewilderment -to the captain. The bear and seal meats were duly served on shipboard, -and pronounced palatable by all, though to some the bear-meat was -slightly fishy. Two boats with all the officers and others landed on the -most easterly of the Cary Islands, and proceeded at once to find and -inspect the _cache_ of provisions—thirty-six hundred rations—left there -by Sir George Nares for his own safety. They were apparently in good -condition, notwithstanding many of the barrels resting on their ends -afforded opportunity for rain and snow-water to enter. Some biscuits -were found moldy. Replaced the Nares record by a copy, and also left a -full record of the Proteus. There was found there an excellent -whale-boat, turned bottom upward, with oars and sails complete. This -Lockwood urged Lieutenant Greely to take along, but he preferred getting -the one at Foulke Point. The former regarded the supply of boats as too -small, and circumstances might arise which would cause them to regret -not using this one. They had only the steam-launch, a twenty-four-feet -whale-boat, and a small, fourteen-feet row-boat—the whale-boat being the -only one to be depended on in case of accident. The boat at Point Foulke -was thought to be inferior. They picked up driftwood, an oar, and some -burned pieces of a ship’s stem or stern. They also saw some red snow, -and shot several eider-ducks. The Cary Islands were found to be barren -masses of rocks without vegetation. - -The steamer came to anchor at Littleton Island at 9 A. M. on the 2d of -August, just as the steering-gear gave way. A party went to “Life-boat -Cove” and brought back a number of articles left by the Polaris -Expedition of 1873. They saw neither Esquimaux nor reindeer, but shot a -walrus. Lieutenant Greely made an effort to find the cairn left there by -Nares, and the letters left for Nares by the Pandora. He found the -letters but not the cairn, though there was a dismantled cairn afterward -seen by others. Lockwood with a party of men put ashore several tons of -coal, which, as it had to be carried up some thirty feet above the -sea-level, he found no easy job. While thus engaged, this party had an -adventure with some walruses, not unattended with danger. Having excited -a drove of them by a simultaneous fire, the animals came toward the -boat, and at one time held its inmates in peril. Lockwood alone was -prepared to meet the foremost, and by good luck slew one of them, when -all the rest disappeared. The walrus can be killed only through the -brain, and when wounded, the animal is exceedingly ferocious. Numberless -boats have been destroyed by them. Lamont thinks the walrus superior to -the bear for food. Those they saw were evidently a female and her young, -and their safety was in having killed the mother. Littleton Island -affords a good illustration of these shores. The sides rise -precipitously, sometimes in steps composed of immense cubes of -trap-rock, sometimes in steep slopes formed from the crumbling of the -same. The top of the island is seven hundred feet high, according to -Nares, and generally quite level. Of soil, there is none. The summit -afforded a fine view of the sound, though somewhat obstructed by fog. No -floating ice; and the western coast with its snowy mountains quite -distinct. - -Having crossed the strait during the night of the 2d of August, in the -early morning they ran along the western coast, which was very distinct -and picturesque, the bluffs and headlands being reflected by the smooth -sea. Striking the western coast near Cape Sabine, at 8 A. M. they -reached Cape Hawkes, a headland over a thousand feet high and very -picturesque. While Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury visited the cairn -there, Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Lockwood went to find the record on -Washington Irving Island, both left by Nares. They then continued their -way with slight interruptions from fogs until abreast of Franklin -Island, when they were obliged to lay-to because of fog. They had not -been delayed a moment by ice, and were surprised to see so little of it. -Their success emboldened them to hope that they might reach Lady -Franklin Bay without obstruction. Indeed, they even thought of inducing -Captain Pike to run on until he reached the north pole itself, or at -least till he attained a higher latitude than did Nares. One of the dogs -having died, they became impressed with the thought that the poor curs -suffered much from being cooped up and from the damp weather. The party -continued on their way up Kennedy Channel with everything favorable, -having the finest weather yet seen; air soft and balmy, sky clear, and -water smooth. - -On reaching the vicinity of Franklin Island and Carl Ritter Bay, they -left there a small deposit of hard bread, pemmican, and rum, and -continued on their way rejoicing; and so onward until nearly 10 P. M., -when, just above Cape Lieber, they encountered an impenetrable pack -extending all the way across the channel, and as far ahead as they could -see. The ship made a savage dash at it, but in vain, and thus, but eight -miles from Lady Franklin Bay, and with Cape Baird in full view, they -were brought to a standstill. The mountains along the coast were covered -with snow, but the valleys and low places were bare. The prominent -objects of the landscape were all distinctly seen from their -position—Capes Lieber and Baird on the left, Franklin, Hans, and Hanna -Islands in the rear and left, and, in the far distance, Polaris -Promontory and Petermann’s Fiord, with the glacier beyond. A party that -went on shore saw traces of the musk-ox, but no animals were seen. - -Several of the officers and men attempted the ascent of the promontory -of Cape Lieber, a precipitous cliff three thousand feet high, which -seemed but a stone’s throw away, but to reach which required a long, -cold row, and then a fatiguing and painful climb. Lockwood and two only -of the party succeeded. The difficulty was in the giving way of the -crumbling slate-rock, which formed an incline of 45°. Those that reached -the summit were rewarded by a grand view, extending to the limit of -vision. On their return, after clambering over some rocks cropping out -of the slippery snow and ice, they chose a short cut and came down at a -run, or rather slide, followed by a miniature avalanche of _débris_. On -the 6th of August, it was found that the icy barrier, which evidently -came from the Polar Sea, was moving south, carrying the steamer along. -Some game was seen in both air and water, but none taken. Parties -attempted to reach the shore on the ice, but were recalled by signal, as -moving ice was seen from the ship, and also open water near the shore. - -From this point they slowly drifted south, with high winds from the -north which opened up lanes of water which they did not think safe to -enter. The total drift amounted to ten miles. With the lowering of -temperature, it was suggested that it would be well to move across the -channel, along the pack, and, if needful, land on the Greenland shore, -possibly where Hall had wintered. - -On the 11th of August, the ice barrier gave way under a change of wind -and weather, leaving the passage open. Under full steam and sail, and -with beautiful weather, they soon regained all the distance they had -lost by drift, passed Cape Lieber, and came abreast of Cape Baird. -Thence forcing their way through the broken ice of the bay, and reaching -Bellot Island, which marks the beginning of Discovery Harbor, they cut -their way to a secure spot for the ship to rest in. And thus ended the -voyage to Lady Franklin Bay or Sound. As this harbor, or a spot in its -vicinity called Fort Conger, was the one where the Signal-Service -station was to be established, the steamer Proteus here ended her -voyage, soon to return to Newfoundland. Discovery Harbor, which was to -be their home, is an indentation of the bay covered by Bellot Island on -the south. This indentation extends east and west some ten miles, and is -probably two or three miles from north to south. Inclosing the harbor on -three sides is a line of rugged bluffs and hills (or rather mountains, -for they are two thousand feet high), those on the east side sloping -back gradually, but elsewhere precipitous and rugged in the extreme. -Thus, with Bellot’s Island fifteen hundred feet high on the south, was -formed a harbor, landlocked and most admirably sheltered. - - - - - VIII. - HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. - - -Immediately after the explorers had anchored their ship in Discovery -Harbor, they saw a drove of musk-oxen leisurely ascending the -neighboring hills, which they climbed with the facility of goats. This -was indeed a cheerful prospect for men in so isolated a region and -without fresh meat, and many of them started forthwith in pursuit of the -game, working their way to the shore on the ice, but were compelled to -return after a vain attempt to follow the animals over the hills. - -Hitherto there had been no opportunity to make any special discoveries, -but now a comparatively new field, to which the explorers were to devote -all their energies, came into view. Discovery, however, was to be always -subordinated to the duties of meteorological observations. As this -narrative proceeds, it will be seen that Lieutenant Lockwood was not -only eminently active at all times, but most successful as an explorer. - -It being desirable to establish the station as near as possible to the -coal-mine on Watercourse Bay, Lockwood was dispatched with Messrs. Clay -and Ryan, to report as to the practicability of carrying out this, the -original intention. According to the map prepared by Nares, this bay -lies seven miles distant on the strait, and is separated from Discovery -Harbor by the mountain-ridge on the east, which terminates southward in -Distant Cape. They attempted the passage across these hills, following a -ravine leading in the proper direction, and had gone only a short -distance when they saw seven musk-oxen quietly grazing. Making a -_détour_, they thought to take them unawares, but soon saw them move -away to some distance up a steep incline. Expending vainly a few shots -at long range, they followed the animals up the hill, over a steep ledge -of rocks, and into a valley on the other side. Here the men halted, -concealed from view, and arranged plans for their capture. The animals -were covered by precipitous rocks on one side. Clay, Ryan, and Lockwood -approached them simultaneously on the other three sides, and thus had -them surrounded and at their mercy. Some depressions and other -irregularities of the ground enabled the hunters, by crouching low down, -to approach the game unawares. Clay firing first, the whole herd rushed -toward Lockwood’s side, closing up as it came, and, seeing him, made a -charge. Dropping on one knee, he threw his cartridges down and blazed -away with great rapidity. Many shots telling, the animals halted before -him only a few rods off, and at once attempted a flank movement; but now -Clay and Ryan closing up, the herd was check-mated. In five minutes from -the first shot every animal of the herd—five grown and two calves—lay -dead before the hunters. The hunters were sorry they had killed the -calves, but in the excitement it could hardly have been otherwise. They -then returned to the ship to report their success, and to have the -carcasses brought in. This addition to their larder was the occasion of -great joy, not only as giving a present supply of fresh meat, but in its -promise for the future; not only as a luxury, but as the only certain -means of warding off the scurvy, so much and so justly dreaded by Arctic -explorers. - -After supper of that day, Lockwood, ever ready for adventure, again -started for Watercourse Bay, accompanied by Clay, Ralston, and the mate -of the Proteus. Following the small stream, which came into the harbor -at this point, for three miles, by an easy and regular ascent between -lofty mountains on either side with a slope of about forty-five degrees, -and over ground and patches of snow thrown up like potato-hills, they -reached its head, and there, fortunately, found another stream running -in the other direction. Following this, they were brought to Watercourse -Creek, which runs into Watercourse Bay. Being uncertain whether the -coal-mine, said to be on this creek, was above or below this point, they -followed the creek up-stream three miles, when, not finding it, they -retraced their steps to the point where they entered the creek, and, -finding it impossible to follow the bed, climbed the bank. Here they saw -two more musk-oxen, which they slew by strategy as before, and, opening -the carcasses with penknives, left them to be carried in. Coming near -the mouth of the creek, Lockwood saw indications of coal, and soon after -reached the exposed seam of one hundred yards’ extent by twenty-five -feet depth, distant about three fourths of a mile from the sea. This -coal is said to equal the best of Welsh production. Near here, they saw -another musk-ox, whose life they spared for the time, as they had so -much meat in store. Lockwood found, and so reported, that, though -Watercourse Bay had the merit of a near coalmine, and was nearer the -grounds of future explorations, it was not possible to use it at once -for the unloading ship without great risk and labor because of moving -ice. Discovery Harbor, though full of ice from sixteen inches to ten -feet thick, was perfectly landlocked and unobstructed. Ralston preceded -the party home, killing one musk-ox _en route_. The Arctic summer was -now at its height, lichen, moss, saxifrage, and various other little -red, yellow, and blue flowers, bright red moss, and tufts of green grass -at intervals, breaking the monotony of the somber rocks and earth. But -the enjoyment of these beauties of nature could not then be indulged in, -as all hands had to take part in unloading the ship, a labor which was -soon accomplished. - -The next business in order with the explorers was to build a house, and -they selected a site facing the water, fifty feet from, and fifteen feet -above it. While this work was progressing, the men lived in tents. - -On the 19th of August, all hands were sent ashore, and the Proteus -started on her return, but, passing too near Bellot Island for safety, -was caught in the ice and delayed. Lockwood made an effort to follow in -her wake with the steam-launch, but failed, because of the rapid closing -in of the great masses of broken ice and the wedging of small ice-masses -into the screw and well. The launch battled manfully with her foe, the -ice. Frequently he ran her under a full head of steam against a massive -floe, which would be shivered for a few inches, the recoil causing the -launch to roll and pitch like a little giant. In young ice she would -sometimes split a sheet for ten or fifteen yards at one impact. - -Finding nothing to do while the house-building was progressing, -Lieutenants Lockwood and Kislingbury occupied themselves with tramping -after ptarmigans and other game over the mountains whose steep sides -formed the eastern entrance of the harbor, and the northern boundary. -Viewed from the house, their sides seemed gradual and their summits not -over twenty minutes’ walk. In fact, however, the sides were successions -of slopes separated by precipices, growing greater with the ascent. What -below seemed the top was only one of many that must be passed before the -real summit or divide could be attained. They reached the summit marked -by the English cairn, and from there viewed the scene below. How small -the ship appeared! and yet it seemed as though they could throw a stone -upon her. They reached home with wolfish appetites, but with no game. -The ptarmigans, which they chiefly sought, are provided, at this season, -with a coat so nearly resembling the shade of the rocks and grounds as -to be almost indistinguishable. By a happy provision of nature, in -winter the feathers of this bird become white with only a little black -about the tail. - -The lieutenants then extended their excursions over the mountains on the -north side of the harbor, availing themselves of a ravine, called the -“Black Cañon,” which leads to a pretty waterfall. Climbing out of this -cañon with difficulty over loose slate and other _débris_, they found -themselves on the high backgrounds of the North Mountains. Thence moving -west over loose rock and snow, and through pools of water, they finally -came in sight of Musk-ox Bay, the western extremity of Discovery Harbor. -They then retraced their steps, reaching home without having seen a -living object bigger than an humble-bee. - -On the 23d, the house was occupied, though not finished. Looking after -their supplies, they found that the foxes had made free with the -carcasses of the musk-oxen left near Watercourse Bay. Lockwood now -proceeded to superintend the laying out of the observatory, digging for -foundation pier of transit, etc. He found the ground frozen after -reaching thirty inches, which may be taken as the depth where perpetual -frost begins. The ship being still detained, but with a prospect of soon -getting off, Lockwood wrote more letters home in which he expressed an -opinion about the Proteus. Her chances of departing south were doubtful. -Detention there for the winter would be embarrassing all around, as -neither the ship nor her crew were prepared to stay, nor the explorers -able to help them through the winter. - -Just before her final departure, some difficulty arose between -Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury, which ended in the latter making a -request to be relieved from duty with the expedition, which request was -granted. One of the annoyances complained of was the rule that officers -should rise in the morning with the men, and although Lockwood advised -Kislingbury not to make any further trouble, he decided to pack up, -board the Proteus, and return home. In this, however, he was not -successful, as the steamer got away before he could reach her, and the -order for his relief was somewhat modified. After explaining his action -in this matter, Lieutenant Greely remarked that, if anything should -happen to him, he desired that Lieutenant Lockwood should have command -of the expedition. Lockwood expressed himself as very sorry for what his -fellow-officer had done, and could not understand his course of action. - -As soon as the building was entirely finished, on the 27th of August, -the explorers found themselves very comfortable. The dull, cheerless -weather and monotonous life were beginning to depress the spirits of -Lockwood, but he felt that, when settled down to regular habits, he -would not find the life in the north more irksome than that he had -experienced on the Western plains of the United States. It may be -mentioned that the final opening of the house, or government station, -was commemorated by the issuing of an order from Lieutenant Greely, that -the exploring expedition along the northern coast of Greenland, which -had been marked out for Lieutenant Kislingbury as senior officer, was to -be placed in command of Lieutenant Lockwood. He now felt that the -opportunity for doing something creditable, for his own as well as his -country’s reputation, was at hand, and his feelings of depression gave -way to those of enthusiasm. - -On Sunday, the 28th of August, all work was suspended, and some -appropriate notice was taken of the day. Lieutenant Greely read a -chapter in the Bible, having previously stated that any one would be -excused from attending the service who had conscientious scruples. The -supply of drinking-water having come up as an important question, -demanded attention. The water was obtained from the ice-hummocks in the -harbor. Pieces of suitable size were brought to the house on sledges and -then melted in a large metallic box near the stove, through which and -the stove ran a steam-pipe. Thus a liberal supply was kept up. - -Wishing to establish a depot on the channel for future explorations, -Lockwood left with Sergeants Brainard and Cross to explore St. Patrick’s -Bay, lying northeast of the station and on the straits. The ground being -covered with snow, the Government boots were soon soaked though, and the -feet of the party became wet and cold. Following a ravine, they soon -reached a lake near the summit of the hills in the rear, where they saw -a musk-ox grazing on the bank. The animal fled on seeing them, but -stopped farther on. Approaching him under cover, Lockwood got a standing -shot and brought him down. Skinning him and dividing the carcass into -quarters, they left the meat for others to carry in and went on their -tramp, which took them midway between the “hog-back,” an elevated -plateau on the north, and the rugged broken chain of mountains which lie -between Discovery Harbor and Robeson Channel. About noon they reached -St. Patrick’s Bay, but at a point so different from that laid down in -their maps, that Lockwood felt some doubt as to its identity, to settle -which, they proceeded to explore a wide river-bed, followed by a deep -cañon, which led into the bay near its head. With this view, and to see -the country to better advantage, they kept north along the steep rocky -sides of the “hog-back,” over rocks, great and small, compact and loose, -and generally covered with snow. After two hours of laborious travel, -they found themselves high above the riverbed and in a position giving -them a good view north and east. The main stream seemed to come from the -north, with a branch from the west, the whole through lands of the most -rugged description. Beyond the river to the east, the hills were more -sloping, yet rising to an immense altitude between the river and the -channel beyond. It seemed not difficult to descend into the bed of the -river, walk up its frozen course, and, taking advantage of some break in -the cliffs a few miles up, gain by a gradual ascent the high hills -beyond, thus obtaining a view of Robeson Channel. The descent, over -rocks, stones, and snow, involving great fatigue, took two hours. This -brought them to a level terrace extending from cliffs to cliffs, through -the center of which ran a deep cut or channel containing the -insignificant stream, the sole occupant of this immense cañon. They -gained the frozen stream with difficulty, cut through the ice and got a -drink, and then regained the level terrace above, and began their steep -climb up the mountain beyond, through a friendly ravine. One hour’s work -brought them to an elevation which, at a distance, had seemed to be the -main summit, only to find that farther on there were still higher -points. Finally, at 6 P. M., they reached an elevation where the slope -seemed to be eastward, and from which a magnificent view was obtained of -the channel from Cape Lieber to Repulse Harbor, while directly east of -them lay Newman’s Bay and Polaris Promontory. After erecting a cairn, -they started back, cold and hungry, satisfied that they had seen the -true St. Patrick’s Bay. - -Regaining the river-valley, they had a most fatiguing climb to attain -the pass through which they had come, and where they had killed the -musk-ox. Just east of the lake, they encountered Dr. Pavy and Rice, and -soon after Ralston and Lynn, going to Lincoln Bay _via_ St. Patrick’s -Bay. Our party reached home at midnight, with frost-bitten feet and -empty stomachs, Lockwood finding his stockings full of ice and one toe -badly frost-bitten. - -He was laid up for a week with frosted feet, and had apprehension of -losing some of his toes. Although suffering greatly, he was made -especially unhappy by the thought of being disabled so early in the -campaign. Discussing the subject of scurvy with Lieutenant Greely, they -agreed in regarding the explorers much better provided against it, than -was the British expedition, in that their dietary list was more -complete. The English issued fresh beef but once a week; the Greely -Expedition three times or oftener. This expedition had also the great -advantage of a dry, warm, well-ventilated house. - -Lockwood’s report as to St. Patrick’s Bay settling that as the place for -their first depot, Sergeant Brainard with others proceeded to establish -the same there by means of the whale-boat, moving around Cape Distant. -Lockwood was much annoyed that his disability prevented his being one of -those to carry out this important feature toward their future -explorations. He took advantage of his non-active condition to figure -out a design for an “ice-sledge,” which he thought would be an -improvement on the Hudson Bay sledge they had in use. Lieutenant Greely -approving the plan, he proceeded at once to build one by way of -experiment. The duty assigned to Brainard was duly accomplished, and -Depot A was established at St. Patrick’s Bay. - -Having received a gentle reminder from Lieutenant Greely for -oversleeping himself, Lockwood said he could not complain, the offense -not being his first of the kind. The singular clearness of the -atmosphere had enabled him to make satisfactory sketches of Cape Lieber -and other prominent objects in the distance, and also of the house. - -Among the events which made the early days of September somewhat lively -were the following: Gardiner reported a waif, in the shape of a boat -twelve feet long and an eight-men sledge, on the shore near Cape -Murchison. Lieutenant Greely with others, and Lieutenant Kislingbury as -a guest, went upon a two-days’ trip to the Bellows in search of game and -to view the land. They were successful in securing ten musk-oxen, a -dozen or more eider-ducks, and some other game. Sergeant Lynn, returning -from Cape Beechy, reported a wagon and lamp on the shore, left by the -English. - -Dr. Pavy returned from Lincoln Bay, but Rice, taken on the return with -severe inflammatory rheumatism, was left four miles north of St. -Patrick’s Bay. A party was at once sent for his relief, which brought -him in, in a bad way. Great difficulty was found in lifting him up the -steep cliffs between the station and St. Patrick’s Bay. - -Lockwood, having recovered from his injuries, went upon an expedition to -the Bellows with Gardiner and the Esquimaux Frederick, using an -eight-dog sledge and carrying rations for four days, consisting of -roasted musk-ox, baked beans, butter and sauce, hard bread, and -chocolate. They visited Bleak Cape, the entrance of the Bellows. The -Bellows they found to be a long, level valley, walled in by lofty hills -and cliffs, in some places two or three thousand feet high. It bears the -impress of having been, at some far-distant period, the channel of a -glacier, its level surface being thickly strewn with stones, while there -are masses attached like shelves to the sides of the cliffs and slopes. -For twenty miles, the valley preserves a width of nearly three miles; -beyond this, it narrows and changes direction toward the west. A small -creek runs through its entire length, which generally they followed. The -route was difficult, owing to the large number of stones imperfectly -covered with snow, and hence all riding ceased after they entered the -valley; for the dogs could scarcely pull the sledge and its load, and -often required aid. Here they met a piece of drift-wood, indicating that -the tide once flowed up the valley, for no tree or wood had ever been -seen away from tide-water. One of the dogs becoming sick was turned -adrift, trusting to her following the party or returning home. Reaching -“Devil’s Head,” they went into camp by turning up the sledge and hanging -rubber blankets around to shield them from the cold wind, and then ate a -supper of warmed-up beans and hot chocolate, and tumbled into the -sleeping-bags, all of which they found most enjoyable. - -After a breakfast of chocolate, hard bread, and some frozen cheese, they -were delighted to see the sick dog rejoin them. The sledge-runners were -rapidly wearing out, and they concluded to walk to the end of the -valley, leaving the Esquimaux with the sledge and team while they pushed -on as best they could. - -Lockwood and Gardiner reached the head of the valley at four, and, -proceeding up the incline to the west where it narrowed to a ravine, -went on till they came to a narrow gorge—its terminus. Having seen all -there was to see, and Gardiner complaining of a game leg, they retraced -their steps, reached the sledge at 10 P. M., and at once, supperless, -turned into their sleeping-bags. Near the terminus of the valley they -met two musk-oxen, but, having only their knives with them, did not -venture on an assault, though the animals stood still and quietly gazed -at the intruders. - -Returning, they followed the creek, finding some advantage from the ice -which had formed during the night. Lockwood saw and took back with him a -few pieces of wood-coal, or very soft coal, evidently of recent -formation, which had doubtless washed down, but whence he knew not. -Reaching Bleak Cape, they decided to make a _détour_ west to a cañon -near the “Knife-edge,” where the musk-oxen were killed by Lieutenant -Greely and party a few days before; but no musk-ox, dead or alive, was -to be seen. Gardiner being still lame, Lockwood abandoned some other -objects he had in view in making this trip, and, striking out directly -across the bay and riding on the sledge, they reached the station -without incident. - -Dr. Pavy made an unsuccessful attempt to reach an estuary at the head of -Lady Franklin Bay, from which Lieutenant Greely thought a passage might -be forced westward to a supposed fiord or sea connected with the waters -leading through Behring Strait into the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, -finding Lady Franklin Bay open beyond Stony Point, the doctor returned -without settling this interesting question, which, as will be seen, -Lieutenant Lockwood afterward solved. - -Sixteen, or more, large Arctic wolves were seen in one day on the ice, a -few hundred yards from the house. These were the first seen by them; the -English saw none here, nor do Kane, Hayes, or Hall mention them. These -wolves are large, strong, fierce-looking beasts, perfectly white in -color, and anything but desirable customers to meet. - -Lieutenant Greely, and Sergeants Brainard, Bender, and Connell, left on -an exploration above and beyond “North Valley,” a deep cañon cutting -through the “hog’s back” north of the station. They left without -sledges, carrying six days’ rations, sleeping-bags, etc. Following the -“North Valley” upward, and leaving it near its head, they soon found -themselves in a water-course running toward St. Patrick’s Bay. Turning -westward, and going some distance, they came in sight of what they -regarded as the United States Range; but, a heavy snow-storm coming on, -they cut short the trip after traveling twenty-five miles, and returned. -It was deemed unfortunate that the untoward weather prevented their -getting a good view from that range. The absence of glaciers and large -water-courses, the low altitude of the range, and many other features in -that region, all seemed to indicate a large sea not far to the westward. - -The building of Lockwood’s sledge turned out a failure, for the want of -proper appliances. - -On the 17th of September, the party celebrated Whistler’s birthday by a -dinner of his own selection—oyster soup, roast musk-ox, potatoes, corn, -pear-butter, cake, etc., and a glass of grog in the evening. Two-story -bunks were built for the men, giving more room. The Signal-Service -men—the observers—had a little corner partitioned off, where they were -to sleep and work. Another corner was fitted as a wash-room, where warm -water might be had, and where there was a bath-tub, which all were -expected to use every week. Other arrangements had been provided -productive of comfort and health. Lockwood’s time was now chiefly -occupied in drawing maps, making finished drawings from sketches, -reading, and sledge-work. - -Dr. Pavy, with a party, went to take provisions to the depots, but -failed to get round Cape Murchison. Not satisfying Lieutenant Greely, -the latter himself undertook the task, and, after considerable -difficulty, in which the sledge broke down, succeeded. On the 21st the -sun presented a remarkable appearance, having rainbows to the right and -left, which nearly joined above; also radiating vertical and horizontal -beams of light. - -Lieutenant Kislingbury, after many futile efforts with arsenic, -succeeded in poisoning many wolves with strychnine. Five of them bit the -dust at one time, and by this means the party was able to get rid of -these dangerous neighbors. This animal, as stated, is perfectly white, -and is not unlike the Esquimaux dog, but larger and more formidable. - -On the 24th of September, Lockwood started on a trip to Cape Beechy with -Ellis, Fredericks, Ralston, Biederbick, and one large sledge, to -provision Depot “A,” distant twenty miles. They started with two hundred -and fifty pounds on the sledge, intending to take on other food left -near Cape Distant. Their passage around this cape was accomplished only -after cutting away masses of ice. Beyond this, and with their load -increased to three hundred and fifty pounds, they struck masses of rocks -over which the sledge and load had to be lifted. There they left the -photograph apparatus for Rice, and took lunch. Afterward they passed -Watercourse Bay, and the English wagon lying on the shore, and halted -for the night at 6 P. M. at Cape Murchison, without any remonstrance on -the part of the tired-out men, notwithstanding some of them, about noon, -had proposed going on to Cape Beechy without a stop. Indeed, Lockwood -observed anxious faces among them when he hesitated about stopping. -Floe-bergs of every form and shape—square, oblong, round, and -pyramidal—from ten to forty feet high, were scattered along the shore. -Without the barrier afforded by these, the floating floe, moving with -the noise of railroad-trains, would cut away the foot-ice and render -travel impossible. Using the tent at Depot “A,” and the bedding, etc., -there, they got supper over the spirit-lamp and crawled into their -sleeping-bags. The cold, cramped position, and dropping of congealed -moisture from the tent, robbed them of sleep; hence they rose at 5.20, -little refreshed. Beautiful “sun-dogs” were noticed with the rising of -the sun across the strait. Toward noon similar appearances, peculiar to -the Arctic sun, were still more remarkable—rainbows on either side, and -joined above the sun, while vertical and horizontal beams of white light -pierced the sun. They passed St. Patrick’s Bay, and, after a hard and -cold day’s work, reached Depot “B,” south of Mount Bufort and a little -farther south of Cape Beechy, at 3 P. M., the 25th. On the following -day, dragging an empty sledge, they returned to the _cache_ at St. -Patrick’s Bay, loaded up with three hundred and fifty pounds, and -returned to Depot “B,” tired, cold, and wet with perspiration, this last -being, perhaps, the greatest obstacle to Arctic travel. The great -exertion soon induces perspiration, which being checked when labor -ceases, you are at once sensible of cold water and ice at the same time. -It was rare to have anything entirely dry after the first day of work. -The sole resource was to use the heat of the body in the sleeping-bags -at night. Mittens and socks were the most important to keep dry, and the -most difficult. Their lamps being imperfect, they found a difficulty in -preparing their chocolate. The alcohol took fire below and filled the -tent with fumes quite as unpleasant as the cold. Having left their tin -plates behind, they had to eat from one dish. Eating was simply -cramming, that their benumbed fingers might give up the cold spoons and -return to the warm pockets. Yet with all these discomforts they ate -heartily, and with appetites unknown elsewhere than in the Arctic -regions; and, notwithstanding dirt, cold, and alcoholic fumes, they had -their jokes and songs while lying in their sleeping-bags, trying to keep -warm and get to sleep. But their ills did not end there, for whenever -the canvas was shaken, frost-like snow—condensed vapor—fell upon them, -which melted with the lighting of the lamp in the morning. Truly, this -was a rough road to glory and fame! - -Two of the men, in consequence of the crowded tent, had to sleep outside -with the thermometer at -15°, and left without breakfast, to return to -the station. The party soon followed them, and, after stopping at St. -Patrick’s Bay to take on a log of driftwood observed there, which gave -them an additional pull of five miles, reached the station long after -dark. Having taken something to eat and drink, they got into their warm -and dry beds, which never felt more comfortable. - -The next man to command a party was Dr. Pavy, who had in view a -long-projected trip to Cape Joseph Henry, with the object of carrying -out the wishes of the Navy Department, that a search should be made -there for the Jeannette, and a signal placed indicating that help was -near at hand; another object was to establish a depot for spring -operations. His force consisted of the Esquimaux Jans, Whistler, and two -dog-teams. His “constant weight” was two hundred pounds, and he took -rations for twenty days. He counted upon other rations at Lincoln Bay -left by the English, and those nearer home left by Greely’s men at Depot -“B,” near Cape Beechy. He hoped with these to establish a depot near the -place where the Alert had her winter quarters, and thus be ready in the -spring to surpass Markham. Lockwood was inclined to think the doctor a -little too anxious to retain personal comfort while exploring, to -accomplish much. He had been convinced that sledge-journeys of any -considerable extent in those high latitudes could be made only by the -sacrifice of every personal comfort. - -On the 2d of October, there was a remarkable and beautiful sunset. The -lower part of the picture was formed by the clear white ice of the -harbor westward. Then came the distant mountains, whose snow-capped -summits reached into a sky of beautiful green; above, a line of gold, -and then blue and gold alternating, and finally the deep-blue vault -studded with masses of red—on the whole a most gorgeous spectacle. - -Finding this inactive life monotonous, Lockwood started on an -exploration of the streams which enter St. Patrick’s Bay from the north. -Lynn, Bender, Saler, Henry, and himself constituted the party, and they -proposed going by way of the gap through the mountains rather than -around Distant Cape. They had not gone far before they regretted having -taken this short cut, for they found the way exceedingly laborious from -want of snow—so much so, that they were six hours in reaching the steep, -rocky bluffs which overlook St. Patrick’s Bay and the valley at the -north of it, and they were two more before reaching the level of the -bay. Indeed, this was only attained by carrying their load piece by -piece down the cliffs and letting the sledge down by ropes. Here they -put up their tent and went into camp. Unfortunately, they had neglected -to bring candles, and hence had to eat their meal in darkness. Lockwood -and Saler occupied one sleeping-bag, while the others were in another. -They passed the night cold and sleepless. There being a birthday dinner -at the station, they had intended to walk back to it, a distance of -seven miles, but, on account of the condition of the way, abandoned the -idea. - -Getting off at an early hour after a cold breakfast, and reaching the -bed of the water-course, they made their way over its stony bed, so -lightly covered with snow as to rapidly grind away the sledge-runners, -up the cañon, as grand as the stream was insignificant. Finding their -progress so much impeded, they left the sledge behind and made their way -without it. The cold being intense, to keep up circulation they walked -rapidly, but suffered greatly in their feet and hands. Having -volunteered for this expedition, they were ashamed to give it up, though -often disposed to do so. Thus, for three tiresome hours, they kept on -their way, either following the bed of the stream, or along the -mesa-like formations, which projected like shelves from the -mountain-sides. Finally, the valley and mesas alike disappearing, the -stream entered a narrow gorge. Gaining an eminence, the further course -of the stream was indicated to them, and its probable terminus in -table-lands of great elevation seen in the distance. Returning by the -bed of the stream until the valley had attained a width of half a mile, -they entered from the west a very picturesque cañon thirty feet wide -with walls one hundred feet high. Its walls were worn smooth, as though -by the action of ice, and there were small, basin-shaped holes -apparently made by bowlders caught by glaciers. They also met with -blocks of quartz much larger than could possibly be moved by the force -of any body of water now passing through the cañon. Notwithstanding -their exhausted condition, and the worn state of their foot-gear from -the numerous stones and rough ice they had passed over, they concluded -not to spend the night where they had left the sledge, but to go on to -Depot “A,” near Cape Murchison. Adding their outfit to that of the -depot, they had a night of less discomfort than usual. On passing Cape -Distant, they noticed a broad channel of open water in the strait, -preventing any passage at that time. - -On reaching the station, they found that the temperature had been -16°, -and it was probably 4° lower where they had been. Lieutenant Greely was -putting in order a variety of reading-matter for the men. Sergeant -Brainard was absent at the Bellows, with Rice and Bender, after musk-ox -meat. They returned later, badly frosted, but brought the meat to within -easy sledging distance. - -The 7th of October, being Mrs. Greely’s birthday, was celebrated with a -dinner made regal by the following-named dishes: gumbo-soup, biscuits, -old sherry, Columbia River salmon with sauce sauterne, boiled ham, -asparagus, sago, corn, lima-beans, cold bread, chocolate cake, -strawberry and pineapple ice-cream, dates, figs, grapes, prunes, candied -fruits, coffee, and Benedictine. - -In Payer’s “History of the Austrian Expedition to Franz-Josef Land,” -Lockwood found much of interest in connection with the requirements for -a sledge-journey—details of clothing and other matters best suited to -fit one to stand the cold. The book he considered of great value to any -novice in Arctic sledging. He supposed that they themselves were much -better off than any expedition that had wintered within the Arctic -Circle. The most serious difficulties—dampness, want of ventilation, and -darkness—were reduced with them to a minimum, while of fresh meat, -anti-scorbutics, and fuel they had an abundance; and if their assortment -of clothing—particularly foot-gear—had been better, they would have had -nothing to desire. - -Besides the large stock of coal left by the Proteus, they had the -coal-mine within ten miles. The men seemed comfortable and contented. -They had a bathroom and bath-tub, with hot and cold water ready at hand, -and books and periodicals in abundance. Their heating arrangements were -generally perfect and quite effectual. The light from the sun amounted -to little, and artificial light within-doors was required all day; but -with a full moon, bright sky, and everything covered with snow, they had -a flood of light almost an equivalent. They had musk-ox meat almost -every day, and a large store on hand. They also had a large supply of -the best pork, lime-juice, cider, sour-krout, pickles, onions and -cucumbers mixed, and other anti-scorbutics. The men were comfortable, -seemed happy and cheerful, and found many sources of amusement—among -others, from an anti-swearing society. Delinquents were fined five cents -each, the proceeds to pay for a grand dinner on returning to the United -States. Several members incurred such enormous fines as to become -bankrupt, and were expelled. These outcasts lay around and beguiled the -unwary, thus affording amusement to all except the victim. Rice and -Israel had a way of carrying on ridiculous discussions. One evening they -had an apparently angry dialogue, in which Rice personated a tipsy -lodger complaining of the fare and demanding his bill, and Israel, an -insulted landlord. Both seemed entirely in earnest, and kept their -countenances amid roars of laughter and gibes from the men. - - - - - IX. - PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS AND LIFE AT THE STATION. - - -Among the amusements which helped to kill time at the station of -Discovery Harbor, officially called Fort Conger, was that of celebrating -certain birthdays, and this chapter begins with what was done when -Lieutenant Lockwood attained his twenty-ninth year. He confessed that he -did not wish a “happy return of the day” in the Arctic regions, and yet -he would be contented if they should all be as pleasant as the one just -experienced, in spite of the cold winds, ice, snow, darkness, and -anticipations of exposure and fatigue when his spring travels should -begin. He spent most of the day in sewing canvas leggings to his -moccasins and altering his trousers, while Lieutenant Greely entertained -him with recollections of his army experience during the rebellion, -fighting his battles over again. His birthday dinner was something quite -formidable, consisting of: - - Pea soup à la Proteus, - Scalloped oysters à la Eastern Shore, - Deviled crabs à la Chesapeake, - Musk-ox à la Franklin Bay, - Potatoes à l’Irlandaise, - Macaroni à l’Italienne, - Rice and curry à la Pacific Mail, - Blanc-mange, fruits, nuts, cake, ice-cream, and black coffee. - -Lieutenant Greely kindly added, from private stores, some very good -California port wine. Lockwood’s reflections, however, carried him to -his distant home, and he longed to know that all there were well—that -his dear parents and sisters were happy as when he was with them! -Perhaps, even at that hour, their thoughts and words were of him. On -this day, as frequently on his sledging journeys, he pictured to himself -the family circle in the far-off home. The cold, fatigue, and monotony -attending him and his companions were rendered endurable by thus -breaking away from the present. - -On the morning of the 10th of October, Lockwood started on a trip with -Jewell across Lady Franklin Bay for Cape Baird. Had no difficulty for a -mile or two beyond Dutch Island, but mist and fog then obscuring their -way and blotting out the landscape, they kept on their course by -compass. Soon they encountered heavy snow-drifts and many floe-bergs and -fields of rubble-ice, all unfavorable for sledging. Fortunately, they -had only themselves to transport. Though the weather was cold, they soon -found themselves oppressively warm from the labor attending the journey. -Profiting by past experience, Lockwood had this time come out warmly -dressed—viz., with two flannel shirts, a woolen jersey, an under-shirt -of light buckskin, heavy woolen drawers, a seal-skin over-all, and two -pairs of socks under light buckskin moccasins. He then became convinced, -that it was quite as great a mistake to wear too much as too little -clothing. Even when they could ride on the sledge, which was not often, -there were numerous bad places where they had to run with the dogs and -lift the sledge over obstacles. Trying to avoid the moving ice, they -struck too far westward, so that when they approached land they found -themselves some two miles within the cape for which they had started. -Stopping only to take a bite of crackers and meat, they started to -retrace their steps, but not before daylight had left them, and they had -only the moon to show them the way. After some time they thought to -reduce the distance by taking what they supposed was a short cut, but -soon found themselves scrambling over hummocky ice of the most -formidable character. They regained their track, but not till overcome -by thirst and fatigue. Resting at short intervals, they finally came in -sight of Dutch Island, and soon afterward were gladdened by the sound of -distant shouts. Dr. Pavy and Sergeants Brainard and Connell had come out -to meet them, and not empty-handed, for they bore a bag of hot coffee, -and never did coffee taste more delicious. Though the mercury was nearly -nine degrees below zero, when they reached the house everything they had -on was as wet as if they had fallen overboard. - -The result of that reconnaissance was that they decided to establish a -“depot” near Cape Baird, which labor was duly carried out by Lockwood, -Ellis, Saler, and Bender. The weather being open, they started directly -for Cape Baird, but, finding that route impracticable, inclined westward -and got into their old track. After much delay and great labor, they -reached a point on the farther side, where they found it necessary to -encamp for the night. The tent was pitched, chocolate boiled, and beans -thawed out, after which they crawled into their sleeping-bags, trying to -forget, if possible, that the thermometer stood at -24° without. -Resuming their journey, but now with the discomfort of wind added to -intense cold, they made their way ashore, established the depot of -provisions, and with lightened sledges and hearts retraced their steps. -Noses were frozen during the day, and only restored by friction, which -made them raw and uncomfortable. Very soon after starting back, twilight -disappeared, and they had only the moon to light them on their way. -Passing the resting-place of the previous night, they concluded to make -the journey to the house without stopping. They stumbled on in the dark, -a used-up party, Lockwood having a sprained tendon Achilles, and also a -lame back. The air becoming calm, they were enabled to stop sometimes -and rest, which they could not have safely done in their perspiring -condition had the wind been blowing. When near Dutch Island, Dr. Pavy -and Lieutenant Kislingbury met them with hot coffee, which so much -refreshed them that the rest of the journey seemed easy, although it was -probable that Lockwood’s raw red nose, frosted toes, lame back, and -tender heel, would be reminders of this trip for a long time. - -On the 16th of October the sun disappeared, to rise no more until -February. With the mercury ranging from -28° to -40°, Lockwood amused -himself by scraping off the accumulated condensation of moisture from -the room on the window-panes near his corner, the ice being one inch -thick. - -About this time Lockwood took up a course of Arctic literature, with -which they were liberally supplied. This was chiefly in view of his -sledge-journey in the coming spring. Feeling the need of exercise, he -left the station on the 23d for Depot “B,” Cape Beechy, with Brainard, -Connell, and the Esquimaux Frederick, and a sledge with eight dogs. At -Depot “A” they took on a small stove and a bag of coal from the mines, -and thereby the tent at Depot “B” became more comfortable than anything -they had experienced away from the station; notwithstanding, they had a -comfortless night, as the crowded condition of the tent compelled some -of them to lie so near the stove as to endanger their safety. Lockwood -woke up to find a large hole burned in his blanket. Afterward, the fire -going out, they suffered more than when they had had no fire at all. -They erected a snow-house for a depot here, forming the sides of tough -blocks of compact snow, and covering it with the boat-sail supported by -oars, and, by imitating the natives in some particulars, had a house -impervious to cold. - -While there, Lockwood, with Brainard, ascended Mount Bufort, near at -hand, and had an uninterrupted view of the straits as far down as Cape -Lieber, and of the opposite coast, between which and them hung -water-clouds, indicating open water. This fact was also indicated by the -roar, like a moving railroad-train, made by the crushing of the ice in -the current. Having passed another night in their warm snow-house, they -made their way next day to the station in less than five hours, and -found all hands there engaged in erecting an ice wall around the house -as high as the eaves, and filling in with snow. This proved most -effectual in keeping the house warm. - -Lieutenant Greely had an uncomfortable experience while assisting to -make a tide-gauge. He fell in and got a ducking—not his first experience -in that direction. Wolves were daily seen near the house, and were so -bold and fearless that the men deemed it prudent never to leave the -building without fire-arms; for, as the animals were of the same color -as the snow, they could not be easily distinguished. - -On the 29th, a singular aurora made its appearance, consisting of a -ribbon of white light a degree wide, stretching through the zenith from -north to south; then another arch, 10° westward, whose base touched the -first; and still another, also passing through the zenith, and cutting -the others at right angles. - -On the 30th, Lockwood commenced preparations for a preliminary journey -to Hall’s winter quarters, whenever the straits could be crossed and the -weather and light were suitable. Among other things, the saddler, -Fredericks, made a tent to hold eight men, using to that end two common -“A” tents. - -About this time, while cogitating on his room and room-mates, Lockwood -said: “Surely this is a happy quartet occupying this room! We often sit -silent during the whole day, and even a meal fails to elicit anything -more than a chance remark or two. A charming prospect for four months of -darkness, such gloom within, and penned up as we are in one room! I have -doubts of getting over the straits, but I must be off as soon as -possible, for I find a relief in getting away.” - -Lieutenant Greely had felt himself compelled to show his dissatisfaction -with Dr. Pavy’s explorations, or rather attempted explorations. He and -the doctor had also adverse views as to how explorations should be made. -The doctor wanted to take along many creature comforts, while Greely -thought, with Lockwood, that nothing could be accomplished without -sacrificing all beyond bare necessities. - -Having everything complete, Lockwood started on the 1st of November to -try the passage of the straits, with Brainard, Lynn, Saler, Biederbick, -Ellis, Fredericks, and Connell, dragging an eight-man sledge, weighing, -with load, one thousand pounds. They left sledge and load beyond Cape -Distant, and returned to lodge at the house, where all hands fortified -themselves with a first-class dinner, preparatory to the labors of the -next day. - -They got off early, but, owing to the limited light and other -difficulties, found themselves some distance from the snow-house near -Cape Beechy when darkness overtook them. Having all in readiness on the -4th, they again got off, leaving Ellis at the snow-house with an injured -foot. This was unfortunate, as he was a strong, willing fellow, with -lots of pluck. The prospects of crossing the straits at this time were -not encouraging, both from the short duration of light and from the open -waters. Still, they determined to make the effort. This they first did -with the whale-boat, which they had picked up on their route. They -mounted it on the sledge, but soon found they could not drag so heavy a -body, and returned to the snow-house. Rice, whom they found there, was -then sent with a dog-sledge to bring up a small boat from Cape -Murchison. Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Jans coming along _en -route_ for another attempt northward, were surprised to see how -comfortable they were in the snow-house. - -After extensive repairs to the small boat, they again got off at noon, -seven men and Lockwood himself dragging the sledge, on which were the -boat and one hundred and fourteen pounds of rations. On reaching open -water, three only were to proceed in the boat, the others to fall back -on the snow-house. They got along pretty well until they came to the -hummocks, through which, with extreme labor, and frequently using an -axe, they made their way, till they heard, in the distance toward -Polaris Promontory, the roar of the grinding ice, indicating open water. -Moving on ahead of the party over very rough ice, and crossing some wet, -slushy ice fifteen or twenty yards wide, Lockwood found himself on a -level floe. He had gone only a short distance over this toward a dark -streak beyond, which he took for open water, when he found that the floe -upon which he stood was in motion. Retreating over the bed of slushy -ice, he found this to be really only a thick mass of broken pieces -intermediate between the moving floe and the firm ice. He could readily -thrust his ice-hook down through it to the water beneath, and did so. -Reaching the sledge-party, and viewing the difficulties of the -situation, he decided, all agreeing, on the impracticability of crossing -at this season. They accordingly displayed signal-torches from the top -of an iceberg, as agreed upon, that Lieutenant Greely might know that -they had found the crossing dangerous and had abandoned the effort. They -returned in darkness, and with considerable difficulty, guided somewhat -by a signal-torch displayed by Ellis at the snow-house. They remained -all day at the snow-house, which the men found so comfortable that they -preferred it to the restraints of the station. At noon Lockwood and -Brainard went upon a tramp, and found the condition of the open water to -be such as to demonstrate the wisdom of their return the evening before. -The men made some additions to the snow-house, which were regarded as a -great success. The return to the station on the 7th was attended with -more difficulty and labor than had been expected, arising from a strong -south wind having worn away the foot-ice, and the small amount of light; -hence, they soon had wet feet, which in that region always means -frost-bitten feet. So much were some of the men used up by this journey -of twenty miles, which had before been made in one day, that they had to -be conveyed on the sledge, and did not reach the station till the third -day. At Dutch Island they met Whistler, who, missing Biederbick at the -ropes and seeing a human form on the sledge, came to the conclusion that -Biederbick was dead, and repeatedly exclaimed, “Poor Biederbick! poor -Biederbick!” - -During a period of dullness at the station, Rice and Henry projected a -newspaper, to be called the “Arctic Moon,” and Lockwood, to whom, also, -the idea had occurred, agreed to join them as one of the editors. They -wanted something to dispel the monotony which was depressing all hands, -as all were tired of reading, of cards and other games, while two of -Lockwood’s room-mates were gloomy and taciturn. To counteract this, he -resumed his reading, especially history and travels—anything but novels. -Kane’s work interested him especially, and he considered him a -remarkable man, courageous, energetic, and determined. Their own manner -of life just then reminded Lockwood of a rainy day in the country -intensified. “Yet,” says he, “why not be contented? Books and leisure -afford an opportunity for reading and studying which we may never have -again. We have a warm, comfortable house, plenty of food, and other -things which many are without. Life in this world is just what one -chooses to make it. Man can make of it a heaven or a hell.” He felt -anxious as to the effect of one hundred and thirty sunless days upon -himself and men, as this might tell on their sledging in the coming -spring. Nares’s people broke down under it, and, when sledging, were -decimated by the scurvy. They themselves were fortunate so far in not -having had a single man sick enough to keep his bed. - -True to his intellectual instincts, Lockwood formed a class in geography -and grammar, consisting of Ellison, Bender, Connell, and Whistler, while -Lieutenant Greely taught them arithmetic. On the 22d of November -appeared, with a flourish of trumpets, the first number of the “Arctic -Moon.” Of course the editors thought it a great success. It had for the -frontispiece a sketch of the house, drawn by Lockwood, while Rice made -fair copies of the paper by the hectograph process—enough for all, and -many to spare. - -These trifles served to shorten, apparently, the many hours of gloom and -darkness, which were wearing away the spirits of all. The men were now -far less hilarious than they had been, and, with the game of chess to -assist, silence reigned supreme. - -Thanksgiving-day, with its games, sports, and dinner, gave them a -pleasant variety. First, came the snow-shoe race of one hundred yards, -Brainard, victor. Next, the foot-race, with many contestants, but Ellis -coming out ahead. Then the dog-team race to Dutch Island and return, -under the Esquimaux Jans and Frederick, the latter, victor. And, -finally, a shooting-match, necessarily at short range, and with torches, -Henry, victor. These and other out-door exercises were followed by the -grand feature of the day, the Thanksgiving dinner, and not a poor one -either, even for a lower latitude than eighty-two degrees. In the -evening Lieutenant Greely gave out prizes to the victors and second -best, Rice acting as master of ceremonies, rigged out in swallow-tail -coat, black pantaloons, white vest, and “boiled” shirt. The mercury -froze on that day, and Lieutenant Greely brought in a teacupful, which -looked like lead as it comes from the mold. The moon also made its -appearance, and all fully appreciated the blessing of this luminary. - -“What a change,” exclaimed Lockwood, “when she comes forth in all her -beauty and loveliness, flooding the landscape with her refulgent beams -and cheering the drooping spirits of benighted mortals! Even the poor -dogs feel her influence!” On the 1st of December, they had an almost -total eclipse of the moon, more remarkable there than an eclipse of the -sun elsewhere. During the phenomenon, the exposed part of the disk was -of a dull-red color. Lockwood took the altitude of the moon while -crossing the meridian, using a saucer of molasses as an artificial -horizon. She flooded the whole region with a light, electric in -appearance, and causing deep shadows. In the evening they were treated -to a display of mock moons, with a circular band of bright light -connecting them, and several bands or ribbons of light at various -angles, but all passing through the moon. - -The Esquimaux, Jans and Frederick, having of late been much depressed, -efforts were made by kindly attentions on the part of Lieutenant Greely -and others to dispel their gloom and assure them of the friendly feeling -entertained toward them by all. These good offices, however, all failed. -Dr. Pavy said this state of mind was not infrequent among the natives of -lower Greenland, and often resulted in the wandering off of the subjects -of it, and, if not followed, by their perishing in the cold. One morning -Jans was missing, and at once his tracks were followed by Dr. Pavy, -Brainard, Rice, and Whistler, with the dog-sledge. Late in the afternoon -they returned with poor Jans, who was found nine miles away, following -at a rapid pace the ice-foot around Cape Murchison. He returned -unwillingly, and gave no reason for his strange conduct. Rice and -Whistler were both rendered _hors de combat_ by the journey, the former -by a fall from an ice-hummock, the latter by congestion of the brain -owing to having shaved before going out. Both Dr. Kane and Dr. Rink (in -his book on Greenland) refer to hallucinations similar to that of Jans, -and the frequent fatal consequences. - -On the 14th of December appeared the second number of the “Arctic Moon,” -which was thought to be an improvement on number one, and was well -received. Lieutenant Greely gave a lecture on the “Polar Question.” - -On the same day also, Esquimaux Frederick came to Lieutenant Greely and -asked permission to leave the station, and, when asked why, said some -one was going to shoot him—a strange hallucination! - -On the 20th Lockwood writes: “The sun now begins his journey to the -north; the backbone of the winter is broken! Walking out at noon to-day, -I was just able to see the hands of my watch by holding it close to my -eye. The profound silence of this region is quite as striking, and -almost as disagreeable, as the darkness. Standing still, one can almost -hear his heart beat. The sense of solitude is sublime.” Speaking of -Arctic literature, he says that “Hayes’ book, though beautifully -written, is far below that of Kane as to information and reliability. No -one who has been up Smith’s Sound can fail to notice this.” - -On the 24th of December, after eating a birthday dinner, the Christmas -presents from an unknown friend to every one of the party, were -distributed. The rooms were appropriately decorated, and everything was -done to render the occasion cheerful and pleasant. Those articles not -specifically assigned by the donor were disposed of by lottery. - -Lockwood indulged in the following reflections: “How suggestive of home -and of the dear ones there! How often do my thoughts wander away to -them! Has Providence been equally kind to them as to me? The day with me -suggests alternately the past and the future. Will next Christmas find -me here, with everything around as auspicious as now, and shall I then -be able to look back with satisfaction and self-complacency on my labors -along the Greenland coast? Or will the future bring a record of dreams -unsatisfied, of efforts unproductive, of labor in vain? My mind is far -away with that group at home assembled together and doubtless regretting -that the absent one is not of their number. Could I but see them for an -hour, or know that all is well with them, I should rejoice, indeed!” - -The “Lime-Juice Club” gave an entertainment on the same evening, at -which Snyder affected Jans to tears by his personation of an Esquimaux -lady, and Connell brought down the house as a martinet captain, by -exclaiming, when a soldier who had shot himself was brought in: “Very -sad affair, very sad, indeed! Charge him with two cartridges expended, -Sergeant.” - -Lieutenant Greely also gave the party as a lecture, “Reminiscences of -the Battle of Fredericksburg,” which was interesting and two hours long, -though entirely _ex tempore_; and Lockwood was announced to lecture on -“Arctic Sledging.” - -On the 31st, rations of rum were issued to help the men welcome in the -new year. They were also to fire a salute with rifles. Fiddles were in -full blast, with singing and other marks of hilarity. - -Lockwood’s lecture on “Arctic Sledging” was given January 3, 1882, and -was well received. Being confirmed in his opinion that he was no public -speaker, he intended to leave lecturing for others thereafter. On the -9th he took his usual walk, notwithstanding the thermometer was at 60° -below zero, and felt the cold chiefly on his nose. It seemed curious to -him, that when the thermometer was lowest, the air was stillest. Were it -otherwise, he supposed existence in the Arctic would be an -impossibility. - -But severe as was the weather, it did not deter him from the study of -science, as will be seen by the following record, made on the 9th of -January: “I have been looking up the subject of nautical astronomy for -some time past, and to-day and this evening, taking sextant, mercury, -etc., and establishing an observatory on top of an old barrel in front -of the house, commenced observations on the transit of Markab, Capella, -and other stars, but have not been very successful. Everything conspires -against one in this climate. It reminds me of my observations last -spring. However, I hope by dint of practice to do better. The winter is -passing away slowly but surely. The time is coming when I shall look at -these stars from grassy fields, on a summer night, in the temperate -zone, I hope. The stars up here are very bright, and a great many of -them circle around the pole and never set. It is a beautiful sight. -Arcturus, Aldebaran, and others, besides being very bright, show -different colors, red, violet, and green. Jupiter looks immense.” - -Still absorbed with his astronomical studies, he gives us the following -on the 13th of the same month: “The moon appeared after noon. How -welcome she is! How a poet would rave over the moon could he once -experience a polar winter!—not simply an Arctic winter, for anywhere -north of the Arctic Circle is the Arctic, and the dark days which most -expeditions have seen are trifling compared with ours. I think it would -be a good idea to exile a first-class poet into these regions for the -purpose, but give him to understand he was never to return. How he would -sing!” - -On the 12th, they had a phenomenon they had never heard of—the -precipitation of vapor with a perfectly clear sky. It resembled a heavy -mist or light rain. - -On the 16th occurred the first hurricane of the season. It began in the -morning with heavy south wind and sudden fall of barometer. At noon the -wind whipped round to the northeast and blew with indescribable fury, -filling the air with snow-drifts, and blotting out the view of -everything even a few feet distant. The anemometer registered sixty-five -miles, and then broke down. The noise of the storm, as heard from the -house, was as though on shipboard. It must have given way but for the -ice walls around it. - -On the 20th, Lieutenant Greely issued a circular letter, calling -attention to the order that all should be up for breakfast. Kislingbury -and Dr. Pavy took exceptions to this, and the latter declined to lecture -in his turn. - -The next evening occurred a beautiful and unique auroral display, the -chief features of which were many broad bands of pure white passing -through the zenith and reaching to the east and to the west horizon, -which blended, twisted, and curled in upon each other in a very -remarkable manner. The spectacle was viewed with wonder and amazement. - -On the 26th, the twilight at noonday was quite bright. The moon also -lent her aid; but low spirits and a sense of oppression and homesickness -prevailed, all induced, doubtless, by want of exercise, and loneliness. - -“Another twenty-four hours,” wrote Lockwood, on the 6th of February, “of -this interminable night nearly gone! Thank God! Sometimes it seems as if -this life must hold on forever, but _tempus fugit_ up here as well as -elsewhere. The days and weeks seem weeks and months in passing, and yet, -in the retrospect, time seems to have passed quickly, because there is -so little in the past to mark its progress, I suppose.” - -Lockwood could not realize the extreme cold, and seldom wore his gloves -when going out for a few minutes. Though he put on a thick dog-skin coat -and seal-skin over-all when taking his daily walk, he really did not -regard so much clothing necessary. Exposure to such low temperatures, -however, for several hours, and particularly at night, was to be -dreaded. Many authorities—among others Lieutenant Greely—spoke of a -peculiar sensation in the throat on first encountering a very low -temperature, as when going out of doors from a warm room, but such was -not Lockwood’s experience. Provided it was calm, he could stand any -degree of cold he had yet met with. Owing to the peculiar and admirable -construction of their house, the men were able to keep up 50° of heat -within, however cold without. - -On the 13th of February, Lockwood with two men went to see what damage -had resulted from the late storm to the observatory on the summit of -Bellot Island. Contrary to their expectations, they found the snow not -only deep, but with a crust just firm enough _not_ to bear. -Consequently, they sent the dog-sledge back, and proceeded on foot, -frequently sinking down knee-deep. Though the thermometer stood at -65°, -they got into a profuse perspiration, which was not lessened by the -steep and slippery ascent of two thousand feet. From this point the -station-house seemed only a black spot, and was hardly recognizable as a -house. Having made their inspection and fired their rifles several times -as agreed upon with Lieutenant Greely, who was experimenting on sound, -they returned. The result of these experiments was, that at -65° sound -travels nine hundred and fifty feet per second. This was the coldest day -they had yet experienced, and still they did not suffer with the cold. - -The return to a warm house was an indescribable comfort, and Lockwood -thought that if this could always be done, Arctic journeying would then -be nothing. It was unprecedentedly cold even for that latitude. Pure -brandy and also glycerine were frozen hard. The poor dogs suffered, yet -many of them preferred to remain curled up on the snow-banks outside, to -occupying the tent and holes prepared for them. - -On the 19th, Lockwood made a dog-sledge trip with Brainard and the -Esquimaux Frederick to Depot “B,” to look for a good place to cross the -straits. Found that the snow had drifted so as to form a continuous -inclined plane from the bluffs far outside the snow-house and tent, thus -almost concealing them. They recognized the spot only by seeing the -stovepipe jutting above the snow. Knowing how the mouth of the tunnel -lay from this point, they dug through the hard, compact snow, cleared -out the tunnel, and soon found themselves within the snow-house. The -little stove was swallowed up in a cone of snow reaching from roof to -floor. This had drifted through a small aperture where the pipe pierced -the roof. The fire going out after they turned in, the room became -extremely damp and chilly. However, they made up for the discomforts of -the night by a rousing fire in the morning, over which they got up a -grand breakfast of musk-ox steak, beans, coffee, and hard-tack. They -next sent the team with Frederick down to St. Patrick’s Bay for a bag of -coal, while Lockwood and Brainard walked over the straits toward Polaris -Promontory. Going out some four or five miles over ice of varied nature, -some exceedingly broken and hummocky and some quite level, they -returned, satisfied that the time for crossing over was not yet. -Frederick had, in the mean time, returned, mended up the hole in the -roof, made a good fire, and prepared a warm meal. - -They again started out to test the important passage, taking a route -farther north. There the rubble-ice reached only two hundred yards from -the shore, beyond which, as far as they walked and could see, smooth ice -extended. They returned, satisfied that this was the place to attempt -the passage when the time should arrive for their contemplated -exploration farther north. - -They made the trip over the foot-ice to the station (twenty miles) in -four hours, thus proving the fine condition of the sledge and dogs for -traveling, and the eagerness of the dogs to rejoin their companions and -pups. All the way, they had before them to the southward a rich glow on -the horizon like the sunrise of a fine morning at home. They found the -men celebrating the 22d of February by match-games of various kinds, -and, after listening to an appropriate speech on the Father of his -Country, enjoyed a good dinner. - - - - - X. - “THE ARCTIC MOON.” - - -As already mentioned in this narrative, among the events which occurred -at the Greely Scientific Colony, or Fort Conger, was the establishment -of a newspaper, the first ever issued so near the north pole, the -nearest approach to it previously having been “The Ice-Blink,” issued by -Kane’s Expedition in 1854. It was projected by G. W. Rice and C. B. -Henry, but Lieutenant Lockwood was the editor-in-chief. The sheet was -fifteen by nineteen inches in size, first prepared in manuscript and -then multiplied by photograph, published on the 2d of November, 1881, -and semi-monthly as to time. As the musk-oxen, the walruses, and the -bears and wolves of Grinnell Land took no interest in the enterprise, -the patrons of the paper were confined to the colony of explorers. In -his opening address, the editor proudly claimed that his corps of -contributors embraced the finest minds in the country; that his -reporters would always be “on the spot”; that the journal was certain to -be superior to any other in the country; and that the subscription list -numbered not less than twenty-five thousand—the last assertion being a -servile imitation of what often appears in the papers of New York and -other American cities. And now, by way of giving the reader an idea of -the style and character of this unique journal, it is proposed to -reproduce in this chapter, as specimens, a collection of its editorials, -contributions, items of news, and advertisements. In an article on -“Christmas,” the editor gives us the following pathetic reflections: - -“Our Christmas-time has come and gone, and, although our geographical -position is not a favorable one for the complete observation of this -joyous anniversary, it was attended with many of the happy features that -make its memory a pleasant landmark of the dying year. No boughs of -‘evergreen were berried bright’ (our crop of evergreens failed this -season), but had they existed, the conditions for making them ‘white -with rime’ were very favorable. - -“Christmas always attracts a crowd of joyous faces, and, although we -missed the pleasure of ‘childhood’s grace and fair maiden’s blushes’ -under the mystic mistletoe, the stalwart, bearded men who grasped hands -under our smoke-begrimed roof felt indeed the inspiration of the -gladsome time when the voice of man’s good-will to man speaks forth in -everything. Could the possessors of the kind hearts and hands that -contributed so much to the pleasure of the party have looked in upon the -happy, smiling faces, living again a day of their youth in the -anticipation and surprise attending the bestowal and opening of the -mysterious packages containing the presents, they would have felt more -than rewarded for their kind thoughtfulness. Lips unused to the task -framed grateful acknowledgments of the kind act. The interest in our -happiness taken by the wife of the commanding officer was repeatedly -shown, and when, as we sat down to our inviting Christmas dinner, we -contemplated a crowning proof of her kind good-will, repressed -enthusiasm could no longer be restrained, and three rousing cheers for -Mrs. Greely were given with an effect which proved beyond cavil the -vigor of our lungs, and rendered unnecessary the weekly examination of -the doctor. - -“Of course, the festive season brought with it regrets that would not be -repressed, and longings that could not be satisfied, when processions of -absent loved ones and severed friends followed the funerals of other -Christmas-days through thoughts that would wander over snow, and ice, -and land, and sea, to the happy firesides where we knew they were -gathered. But every one looked on the bright side of things, and -extracted as much comfort and pleasure as possible under the -circumstances; we even knew one sordid individual who congratulated -himself on the immunity of his exchequer from the heavy drafts generally -entailed by the purchase of Christmas presents. We have not space to -enter into a detailed account of all the happy features of the holiday. -Altogether, our Christmas was a great success.” - -By way of showing that there was nothing very frigid in the hearts of -the explorers, another editorial is submitted, on the New Year: - -“Christmas is gone, with all its pleasant associations, and we find -ourselves on the threshold of a new year. What thoughts the day recalls -to a reflective mind! the exodus of the old, the advent of the new year; -the past and the future, history and prophecy, the ceaseless alternation -of life and death, the eternity of nature. - -“The day is suggestive in another way. Where were we a year ago? what -doing? what looking forward to? Where shall we be a year from now? what -will be our surroundings, and what shall we look back upon? How distant -seemed this day a year ago! how short now seems the time that has since -elapsed! - -“The new year of 1882 finds us a community of twenty-five men, living -through the cold and darkness of an Arctic winter, in a small house near -the north pole, thousands of miles beyond any civilized habitation. A -year ago saw us scattered—some in the cities, some on the plains of the -far West, some occupied in quiet routine, some in the ceaseless changes -and activity of the field. Will the next year find us here with our -surroundings as satisfactory and auspicious? We trust so, and this day -is eminently a day for making good resolutions. We are free agents, and -the future depends, in great part, on ourselves. Let us, then, determine -that, so far as lies within our power, we shall have no cause to look -back with regret on the year just ushered in. The phrase is hackneyed, -but none the less true: - - ‘Of all sad words of tongue or pen, - The saddest are these—it might have been.’” - -And now we come to a contribution addressed to the editor of the “Arctic -Moon,” as follows: - -“As Grinnell Land is a recognized Territory of the United States, and -has a territorial form of government, a delegate from this Territory is -to be elected who is to take his seat at the opening of the -Forty-seventh Congress. The undersigned offers himself as a candidate -for the office, on the following platform: I am in favor of reaching the -north pole by balloon, a liberal appropriation for the purchase of -lime-juice, compulsory education, unlimited emigration, a homestead and -sixty acres of land, one musk-ox and two Esquimaux dogs to each actual -settler. I am also a strong advocate of woman’s rights, but there is no -good in rights without the woman. I am prepared to ‘chaw’ the points on -the above platform; I think it is ‘plump,’ and will stand without being -propped up. - - (Signed) “Connell.” - -And now, under the general heading of “_Moon-Beams_,” we come to the -following paragraphs, which are not only spicy, but characteristic -of the time and place with which they are identified: - -“The British expedition found the ice in this harbor, January 1, -1876, twenty-eight and three-quarter inches thick. Measurements made -this day showed thirty-four inches. Our average temperature for -December was nearly eight degrees lower than theirs for the same -month. - -“The darkest day being a thing of the past, we shall soon find -ourselves sliding down hill quite rapidly. We have made complete -arrangements to have the sun interviewed on his return to this -country the latter part of February. - -“The walrus seem to have emigrated, so that the Dutch Island people -now take their daily exercise in _peas_. - -“‘I wonder what is in the mess-boxes?’ is the oft-repeated query. -Have patience, brethren, time will show. - -“Old Probabilities will be surprised to learn, that his enterprising -colony at this point is indulging in outdoor sports with the -thermometer at 40° below zero. - -“To-day, at Dutch Island, Lieutenant Kislingbury was able to see the -time of day holding his watch about one foot from his face. - -“Sergeant Cross has made another addition to his already numerous -trades—that of bottling samples of air for the examination and -scrutiny of those not favored with a sniff of Arctic breezes. - -“Sergeant Brainard is excellent authority for the statement that the -gate-money taken at the racing contest will be devoted to the -advancement of geographical knowledge within the Arctic Circle. Such -being the case, the number of aborigines present will be a crucial -test of the desire on the part of the Grinnellites to bring their -country into more general knowledge. - -“Wanted—A good family horse. Will buy it cheap, or will take for his -keeping, or keep for his taking. To be used on good country roads -and for family driving. Must be very gentle. No objections to a -Government mule. Address Jacob Doboy. - -“Wanted—A poet for the ‘Arctic Moon.’ Must be strictly temperate and -a good speech-maker. No tailors need apply. Address this office. - -“Wanted—A humoristic writer for the ‘Arctic Moon.’ The present -incumbent has suddenly become ill from too close application. - -“Information wanted of the Greely Arctic Expedition. It strayed away -from home last July, and was last heard from at Upernavik, -Greenland. - -“We beg leave to announce to the public that we have made extensive -improvements in our establishment, whereby we can furnish at the -shortest notice bread, twists, rolls, cakes, pies, tarts, and, in -fact, anything in the baker’s line. Wedding cakes made a specialty. -Are thankful for past patronage, and respectfully ask its -continuance in future. - - “Frederick Shootman, - “San Francisco Longman, - “Merchant Bakers.” - - - - - XI. - EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. - - -On the 29th of February, Lieutenant Lockwood went upon an -experimental trip to Thank God Harbor preparatory to his proposed -grand expedition along the coast of Northern Greenland. His -companions were Brainard, Jewell, Long, and the Esquimaux, Frederick -and Jans, with two dog-teams. As the dogs, constantly yelping and -howling, competed for the mastery, they traveled rapidly, and, after -many twistings and turnings, reached their destination, where they -found the observatory still standing. They took a necessary -inventory, and, after a survey of the dismal plain, visited the -grave of C. F. Hall, where Lieutenant Lockwood recorded the -following touching notice in his journal: “The head-board erected by -his comrades, as also the metallic one left by the English, still -stands. How mournful to me the scene, made more so by the howling of -the winds and the thick atmosphere! It was doubtless best that he -died where he did. I have come to regard him as a visionary and an -enthusiast, who was indebted more to fortune than to those practical -abilities which Kane possessed. Yet he gave his life to the cause, -and that must always go far toward redeeming the short-comings of -any man. The concluding lines of the inscription on the English -tablet, I think good: ‘To Captain Hall, who sacrificed his life in -the advancement of science, November 8, 1871. This tablet has been -erected by the British Polar Expedition of 1875, which followed in -his footsteps and profited by his experience.’” - -The American inscription on the wooden headboard was as follows: - - IN MEMORY OF - CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, - LATE COMMANDER U. S. STEAMER POLARIS, - NORTH POLE EXPEDITION. - _Died November 8, 1871._ - -“I am the resurrection and the life; he that believeth in me, though -he were dead, yet shall he live.” - -After various struggles with the snow, fog, and cold weather, ending -in frosted feet and faces, and after inspecting a boat left by -Buddington, they returned by way of the snow-house at Cape Beechy, -and, all very much exhausted, reached the station, receiving a -hearty welcome. Greely had been very anxious about the party, owing -to a storm of great violence, and had sent Dr. Pavy with men to -their relief. The trip thus made covered not less than one hundred -and forty miles. Lockwood now decided that on the 1st of April he -would start upon his proposed expedition. This trip occupied his -mind continually. He hoped he might be successful, yet there were -many chances of failure. Who could divine the future? He felt that -he ought to be able to reach Cape Britannia, but that was not -enough; he desired to do more. - -As the time for taking his departure approached, Lockwood was -greatly troubled with rheumatism, but still was very busy in -maturing his plans. Lieutenant Greely wrote him a flattering letter, -putting the whole plan of operations in his hands and placing at his -disposal the entire _personnel_ and material of the expedition. This -would include almost all who could take the field. The men were -becoming enthusiastic and were showing an admirable spirit, although -they knew from experience that they were to engage in no child’s -play. Almost all of those selected had shown pluck hitherto. Without -this element no one could endure the hardships that they might have -to undergo. Should any of those selected break down early, there -were excellent substitutes among those left behind. Lockwood was -pleased with an exhibition of pluck by Ellis, who walked all the way -from Depot “A” with a frozen foot, refusing the offer of Jewell to -bring him on the dog-sledge. Jewell, on returning from Lincoln Bay, -had orders to convey stores to the “Gap,” where the boat previously -sent over the strait lay. Hence, before starting, supplies would be -placed at Depot “B,” at the “Gap,” and at a point intermediate on -the frozen strait. - -Having all things complete, Sergeant Brainard was to proceed at once -with the supporting parties to Cape Sumner. He was to leave Depot -“B” with a weight to drag of one hundred and thirty pounds per man. -Lockwood was to follow with dog-sledge loaded with five hundred -pounds of pemmican. Thus they would concentrate at Cape Sumner with -the six hundred rations in hand, together with seven hundred pounds -of dog pemmican. The stores embraced pemmican, bacon, corned beef, -roast musk-ox, raw musk-ox, English beef, hard bread, canned beans, -potatoes, sugar, tea, chocolate, and coffee, besides which they -carried alcohol for cooking and lime-juice as an anti-scorbutic. -Their sledge ration had been made up by consultation with Lieutenant -Greely, though, of course, it might be departed from if -circumstances required. The diet list was purposely a varied one. No -rum or spirits were taken except as a medicine. The main supporting -party consisted of Sergeant Lynn, Corporal Ellison, and privates -Biederbick, Whistler, and Henry. - -Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Jewell, and the Esquimaux Frederick -formed the advance party, while Sergeants Brainard and Ralston, -Corporal Saler, and privates Connell, Fredericks, and one other man -constituted the second supporting party. - -[Illustration: Sledging over the Arctic Floe.] - -On the 2d of April, the main and second supporting parties moved off -in good style, amid the waving of flags, firing of pistols, cheers, -and other demonstrations. Both Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood took -occasion to address the men a few words of encouragement and advice. -Lockwood confined his remarks to the necessity of co-operation and -subordination as the chief essentials to success. He would follow -with Jewell and the dog-sledge, and, if he knew himself, would not -return unsuccessful. He got off at 8 P. M., with Jewell, Frederick, -and the dog-sledge Antoinette. The team of eight consisted of -“Ritenbank, the king,” a large white dog, at whose growl all the -rest trembled; “Major,” a friend of Ritenbank, and a very useful, -good-natured old fellow, hard-working and quiet, without any special -characteristics; “Howler,” a large, lean, mean, ill-natured brute, -whom they took on board at Disco, and who lorded it over the rest -till Ritenbank came on board at the place of the same name, when -Howler was dethroned; since which he had been morose and -misanthropic, and never associated with the other dogs. He set up -the most unearthly howling whenever any other dog approached him, -especially if that other dog had designs on something he was engaged -in eating or trying to eat—a tin can, for instance. At the end of a -march, when the pemmican was being cut up, and he, with the rest, -was awaiting his opportunity to make a general rush, his howling -became almost unendurable. But he was especially despicable, because -he allowed any and every dog of the team to jump on and bite him. -His only redeeming trait was his earnestness in pulling, for, when -the sledge stuck in deep snow or rubble-ice, he was the last of the -dogs to sit on his haunches and look while _you_ got it out. On -several occasions when Ritenbank was making efforts to get inside -the tent and steal the meat while all were asleep, Howler had given -the alarm by his unearthly howling. His place in the team was on the -right flank, and he kept it all the time, never dropping back and -coming up in the wrong place, as did the other dogs. Next to Howler -was the “Woolly dog,” a dirty-looking cur with long white hair, -which made Howler’s life a burden all the time by snapping at him as -he hauled by his side. Next came the “kooneys,” signifying in -Esquimaux mother-dogs. They were called “Black Kooney” and “White -Kooney,” and were both good workers. Then came “Ask-him,” a pup when -brought on board in Greenland, but now _of age_, and bearing the -airs of a veteran. He brooked insult from no dog but Ritenbank, and -evidently bided his time to contest the throne with him. He had even -taken upon himself the kingly custom of biting the adjoining dog -whenever he felt the whip. On his left were two dogs already named, -“Major” and the “Boss.” On the left flank was “Gypsy,” a little fat -kooney dog which pulled only under the lash, and yet by foraging and -stealing managed to get twice the rations of any of the rest, and -was always plump and fat. - -The advance party reached Depot “A” in good time, and took on five -sacks (five hundred pounds) of dog pemmican and some cans of corned -beef, which made their load very heavy. - -On the 5th of April, Lockwood reached the snow-house, and there -found Brainard and the rest, making thirteen altogether. They -completely filled the house, and also the dug-out in the snow-bank -adjoining, so that Lockwood and Jewell moved the provisions out of -the tent, and slept there, and Frederick in the tunnel. The tent -being snowed in to the ridge-pole, and connected with the tunnel, -they were quite comfortable. On the same day they saw an eagle on a -floe-berg, which was considered a good omen. After needed rest all -hands took their departure. The snow on the ice-floe was somewhat -deep, and the loads very heavy. The route across the straits, -previously determined on, was from Cape Beechy to within five or six -miles of the east shore, and then as direct as possible to Cape -Sumner. On reaching the tent on the straits, about four and one half -miles out, Lockwood dropped his load, and went back to look after -the sledges, then out of sight. He found Whistler sick and unable to -pull, and Biederbick and Connell trying to pull the load without -him—not an encouraging commencement of a long journey. Aided by the -dog-sledge, all soon reached the tent and camped for the night. -Lockwood, Jewell, and Frederick slept in the wall-tent, pitched -there some weeks before. Lockwood writes at this point: “Finding it -very cold, I was glad to get up and out, leaving Jewell to the -unhappy work of getting breakfast. (Breakfast! what a misnomer in -such cases!) I then went to the two tents occupied by the others to -inquire for healths. Mr. Henry, correspondent of the ‘Chicago Times’ -(as he called himself), the same who had written on the side of a -large iceberg, ‘Ho! for Cape Britannia,’ said he could go no -farther, as he had been suffering dreadfully all night with -rheumatism; or, if he did go farther, we would have to haul him -back, while from here he thought he could manage to hobble by -himself to the snow-house, and, after resting there and again at -Depot ‘A,’ reach the station. Henry is a big fellow, over six feet -in height, with apparently the strength and physique of Hercules. It -was a bad omen for the rest of us when _he_ broke down. Connell had -frozen his feet the previous day quite badly, and only discovered -the extent of the injury after getting into camp, but thought _he_ -could go on, or at least was determined to try. All hands looked -very forlorn, but generally were resolute and determined. Finally, -Jewell had the tea and canned meat warmed sufficiently, and we -stuffed ourselves with all there was to stuff, and prepared to -follow the others who had already started. We overtook Fredericks -(the saddler) struggling along in the snow with a sledge all by -himself. He was a dwarf by the side of the giant Henry. It was -necessary to do something, and so I told Jewell he must join -Fredericks, and leave the Esquimaux and me to manage the dog-sledge. -I overtook the main party about a mile and a half from camp, doing -their best. Connell could hardly walk at all, and it was utterly -impossible for him to pull. He was very reluctant to go back, but -there was no alternative; so, throwing off the load, I took him on -the dog-sledge as far as Cape Beechy, whence he thought he could get -along by himself. On returning I picked up the load, and proceeded -to follow the trail of the others. The snow soon became worse, and -the sledge so often stuck that I determined to double up—take half -the load at a time. The Esquimaux dogs can pull a very heavy load, -and through bad places, but the moment the sledge comes to a dead -halt they sit on their haunches, turn complacently round, and wait -till the sledge is extricated. If not fully started, they will pull -at random, or not at all. On these occasions the hard work comes -upon the driver and others with the sledge.” - -On the 7th, they joined the other wing of the expedition, finding -them in camp some miles south-west of the gap. The wind had been -blowing and snow drifting for some hours, and everything indicated a -storm. Lockwood and Frederick pitched tent and went into camp, first -bringing up the rest of the load. - -While the storm was still raging, they got off with half the load, -leaving the rest making preparations for a move, and took a course -for Cape Sumner, whose steep, rocky face loomed up in the distance, -terminated by a line of magnificent cliffs, which extended unbroken, -except by “the Gap,” as far south as Cape Lupton of Polaris fame. -They traveled upon level floes interrupted by ridges of hummocky -ice, over which they had to get the sledge as best they could, and -with frequent use of the axe. The wind blowing stronger, and the air -being obscured with driving snow, they could with difficulty pick -their way. Traveling over the straits was like navigating a ship in -a tortuous channel. They soon found themselves in the midst of a -mass of rubble-ice of the worst description; gaps and chasms between -the crags and blocks of ice, often filled with loose snow, or -entirely obscured by that flying through the air. They could barely -see the cliffs on their right, and could not recognize their -position. The dogs became very much discouraged, Frederick also, and -Lockwood himself felt in no very enviable frame of mind. After many -ineffectual efforts, and unloading and reloading repeatedly, they -left the load and attempted to explore a route to shore. Not -succeeding, they hunted for some suitable snow-drift in which to -burrow, and there await better weather; but saw none. Finally, the -storm letting up for a moment, they found a level floe, and, with -the use of the axe, Lockwood and Frederick got the sledge upon it. - -On the 8th, at 3 A. M., they arrived at Cape Sumner, and, getting -through the rubble-ice near the shore, gained the steep snow-slope -which lay between the foot of the cliffs and the line of immense -floe-bergs along the shore, stranded and pressed close up to the -snow-slope. Between the bergs and the slope, the wind had made great -gaps, deep and tortuous. The only way to get along was either -through these gaps—often like pits—or to take the slope above and -run the risk of tumbling down into them, sledge and all, sometimes -fifteen or twenty feet. There was often no alternative but the -latter. Lockwood expected to find it calm there by reason of the -protection of the bluffs, but, on the contrary, the wind came down -from above in gusts and whirlwinds, filling the air with eddying -columns of snow. When about a mile from the Polaris Boat Camp, they -encountered an immense mass of snow entirely filling up the ravine -from top to bottom. Leaving the sledge, Lockwood went on to see if -he could reach the Boat Camp, but could hardly keep his feet on -account of the wind. Returning, he and Frederick made a small hole -in the side of a large drift, and, pulling in everything the dogs -could possibly eat, prepared to “weather the storm.” By 9 A. M., -_supper_ had been eaten in darkness, for they had no candles, and -Frederick, wedged close up to him in the frozen sleeping-bag, was -snorting away like a steam-engine. Lockwood soon fell asleep too, -but woke up to find the sleeping-bag and his footgear and clothes -wet with the moisture such close quarters produced. Everything -inside was thawing. Soon after, masses of snow falling down through -a number of rents in the side and roof of the excavation, he began -to think they would be smothered alive. But while thinking about it, -he went to sleep again, leaving Frederick snorting as before. Just -how long they slept in that snow-bank, they did not know, but when -they did wake up and try to emerge, they found themselves completely -snowed in, and only got out by vigorous use of their knives, so hard -and compact had the ice and snow become. Frederick being able to -understand only signs and a very few words chiefly referring to -food, their conversation was very limited. - -They found the dogs and sledge almost buried in snow. Hastily -harnessing up, they reached the Boat Camp on Newman’s Bay at noon. -Here they again went into camp by digging into a snow-bank and -covering the hole with the tent. “Skaffer,” or eating, being first -in order, they supplied themselves by thawing their prepared roast. -Then they had a smoke—that great solace of the traveler in every -clime. Snow-houses and snow-holes, they concluded, have many -objections, but they always have the merit of being warm. Feeling -uneasy about Brainard and his party, imagining all manner of things -about them, at 9 P. M., Lockwood left everything behind and went -forth with dogs and sledge to hunt them up, and at midnight met them -valiantly struggling along toward the Boat Camp. They had found -shelter from the storm behind a large, friendly floe-berg, where the -tent could stand. On the 10th, preceding them, he picked up the bags -of pemmican he had put off, and returned to Boat Camp, where they -came also and burrowed in the snow. All thus found themselves at -their first station. Jewell, being originally of the party of the -dog-sledge, lodged and fed with them when together, he sleeping in a -single bag, and Lockwood and Frederick together. “It was,” Lockwood -remarks, “a choice of evils which to prefer—Frederick groaning like -a piece of machinery, or Jewell always getting the stockings and -wraps mixed up, and invariably laying hold of the dry ones as his -own.” - -“Snow-holes,” he again says, “having the insuperable objection of -asphyxiation, we repaired the tents and returned to -civilization—that is, went really into camp. Whistler and Bender -were found completely done up this morning both in flesh and -spirits—all kinds of pains, shortness of breath, spitting of blood, -faintness. Not being enthusiastic about going farther, I deemed it -best to send them back, and they left at once for the station.” - -They now had several things to look to before going farther—to bring -up the rations sent across to the Gap, also to bring over those left -at the tent on the straits. - -At midnight, Brainard and party, with three Hudson Bay sledges, -started on this work, and Lockwood left two hours after, with a -dog-sledge and Frederick, for the same purpose. Taking advantage of -smooth ice, interrupted now and then outside the pack near shore, he -soon overhauled Brainard, and they reached the Gap together. There -they found the boat, which had been sent over with so much labor, a -complete wreck. They, however, placed it out of reach of further -damage, as it might yet become important to them. They then went -into camp by going into a snow-burrow prepared there some weeks -before when the boat had been brought over, and proceeded to have a -feast, which possessed at least one merit, that of being _enough_, -for Lockwood did not deem it necessary to adhere strictly to sledge -rations till they had left their base of supplies. Leaving the -others to load up and return to Boat Camp, he and Frederick left -with the dog-sledge for the food put out on the straits _en route_. -Part of this they took up and then joined the others at Boat Camp, -men and dogs well spent and tired; but a good meal, a good smoke, -and a snooze in their bags, set them all right. - -Their number was now reduced to nine, two having been sent back soon -after leaving the snow-house (Depot “B”), and two from Boat Camp. -The Hudson Bay sledges were much worn, and likely to become useless. -Lockwood now determined to return to the main station for new -runners, leaving the men under Brainard to bring up the supplies -still out, and otherwise make ready for the advance. The round trip -would be one hundred miles, and would add much to the labor of the -dogs, but there was no help for it, as he could take no chances on -the threshold of the long journey before them. - -Soon after making this resolve, he and Frederick got off with their -team, carrying nothing but an axe and half a pound of tobacco. The -dogs were in fine condition, notwithstanding their recent hard work. -True, they supplemented their rations and thus added to their -strength by stealing thirty-five pounds of bacon! “It is wonderful,” -Lockwood here remarks, “what these Esquimaux dogs can do. This team, -which was regarded as a scrub affair—Dr. Pavy having had his pick of -dogs—hauled ice all through the winter, made a trip beyond Cape -Beechy in February, another to Thank-God-Harbor and Newman’s Bay in -March, and then hauled a load to Lincoln Bay and four days after -started on this present trip; yet now they travel along as lively as -ever—so lively that the driver finds it difficult to keep up.” - -They duly reached the station, and, of course, Greely and all were -surprised to see them, probably taking them for another cargo of -cripples. After a good sleep and a feast, they were off on their -return at 10 P. M. of the 14th. They took on the runners, a feed of -walrus-meat, a few other trifles, and also a heliograph, the last to -open communication in case of delay or disaster. Stopping six hours -at the snow-house to rest and feed, they started across the strait -with a small load of meat, and, notwithstanding some rubble-ice -which delayed them, reached the Boat Camp at 5.30 P. M., very tired -and very sleepy, too, having accomplished this remarkable journey of -one hundred miles in fifty-four hours. During their absence, -Brainard had brought in everything, and all was ready for the -advance as soon as they could repair the sledges. - -After repairing and rebuilding, they had for the trip: - -1. Dog-sledge, Lieutenant Lockwood and Esquimaux Frederick; total -weight, 743 pounds. - -2. Large sledge (the “Nares”), drawn by Sergeants Brainard and -Ralston and Corporal Saler; estimated total weight, 651 pounds. - -3. Hudson Bay sledge (“Hall”), drawn by Sergeant Jewell and private -Fredericks; estimated total weight, 300 pounds. - -4. Hudson Bay sledge (“Hayes”), drawn by Sergeant Lynn and Corporal -Ellison; estimated total weight, 300 pounds. - -Of this weight, 225 pounds was of equipments, independent of weight -of sledges, and 900 pounds, of food for men and dogs. - -At 10.30 P. M., they left the Boat Camp and crossed Newman’s Bay, to -a ravine, or narrow valley, directly opposite, which the lieutenant -called Gorge Creek after finding it was not the route he had taken -it for—that of Beaumont’s return. The others being far behind, he -left the sledge and proceeded on alone to explore. Passing through a -narrow gap, the valley widened out as before, in some places the -exposed stones offering a serious obstacle to heavily laden sledges. -Returning, he and Frederick went back with the team and assisted in -bringing up the foot-sledges. Then, after an advance of ten miles in -eight hours, all went into camp again. Leaving the camp at 10 P. M., -and doubling up from the start, they made their way up the valley, -through the gap, and to the head of the valley beyond. They found -the exposed stones so annoying that Lockwood regretted often he had -not taken the route round Cape Brevoort, notwithstanding the -rubble-ice. Though Lockwood felt confident he had reached the -divide, yet, throwing off the load, he sent Frederick with the team -back to assist the others, while he went ahead to further -reconnoitre. Although he ascended a high hill, he could see little -encouraging beyond. He returned to the load and continued -down-stream until he met the others painfully advancing, when all -went into camp, after making an advance of six miles in eight hours. - -Got off again with half-load at 10 P. M. Preceding the others, -Lockwood and Frederick made their way over slightly undulating -plains, keeping as far as possible northward until they came to a -decided depression in that direction, sometimes following blind -leads, and then returning and continuing on their former way. -Lockwood finally saw before him the crest of the bluff of a -water-course, gaining which he found to his joy a stream running -north, which he entered. Though filled with snow, it afforded good -traveling for the dog team. Continuing down this stream, he passed -between two large masses of rock like a gateway. Here was a regular -cañon as straight as a street and nearly level, whose sides were -almost perpendicular and extremely picturesque. Seeing no signs of -the sea, he resolved to camp here. To this end, throwing off the -half load, he went back for that left behind, expecting to meet the -foot-sledges on the way. Disappointed in this, he returned to the -ravine, and at 6 P. M. he and Frederick were into their -sleeping-bags, feeling much uneasiness about their route, for they -had already traveled a much greater distance than the English maps -called for as lying between Newman’s Bay and the north coast. - -Although the men with the drag-sledges had not come up, Lockwood -resolved to leave everything behind and go ahead down the cañon with -the empty sledge till assured that he was _en route_ to the sea by -finding the sea itself. Carrying out this resolve at 10 A. M., the -cañon soon widened into a valley, with deep, soft snow-bed or -stones, and inclosed by lofty mountains. He crossed this, and came -to a gorge like a railroad-cutting, through which the stream ran. -Ascending an adjacent hill, before him lay what seemed an extended -plain, which he recognized as the sea, from a line of floe-bergs -marking the coast. - -Just where they were, he did not know, nor did he find out till -their return. The sea had been found, so now they were to find and -bring up the men and sledges. Lockwood and Frederick, with the -wearied team, rapidly went back and happily found the absent ones, -safely, if not comfortably, camped alongside their load. - -All broke camp at 7 P. M. and proceeded to bring up such of the -impedimenta as had been left behind; after which they made their way -with great labor through the cañon, valley, and gorge to the sea, -reaching there, at 4 A. M. of the 22d, with everything except a -seal-skin mit, which got adrift and went flying before the wind over -the hills like a bird; for a terrific snow-storm was then raging. -They found great difficulty in making the tents stand, and, indeed, -abandoned the attempt except as to one, into which they all huddled -to weather out the storm. The cooking was confined to making a -little tepid tea. They remained in their bags, sleeping at -intervals, and even going without food and water rather than venture -out. - -Finally, on the morning of the 23d, the storm had abated, and they -ventured out, to find that the dogs had taken advantage of the -circumstances to eat up twenty pounds of bacon and twelve pounds of -beef, although these had been secured, as was supposed, at the -bottom of a sledge. They had also eaten a seal-skin mitten. After -some repairs to the sledges, which had suffered by the stony route -passed over, they proceeded on their way along the coast, keeping on -the ice-foot which here ran along a low, sloping shore backed by a -range of hills. At Drift Point, the snow formed steep slopes, -extending from the bluffs (now near the sea) to the tops of the line -of floe-bergs along shore. There, the sledge “Nares” breaking down, -it was necessary to abandon it and increase the loads on the other -sledges, carrying along the good parts of the “Nares” to repair the -others when needful. Doubling up, they made their way along those -steep slopes until near Black Horn Cliffs. Here the slopes became so -abrupt that they were driven on to the rubble-ice near the shore. So -difficult was their way over this with the heavily loaded sledges, -that in many places by standing pulls only could progress be made. -Near these cliffs they went into camp after bringing up the -half-loads left behind, having advanced five miles in eight and a -half hours. Leaving half their stuff, they then made their way over -the rubble-ice, frequently using the axe, till they came to the end -of the cliffs, when the sledges went back for the rest of the stuff, -while Lockwood looked for a more practicable route. Off shore, half -a mile seaward, he found a fair route, following which he reached -Cape Stanton. He thought Stanton Gorge, where Beaumont had left -forty rations, to be near. These, however, he failed to find. After -taking a short nap in the lee of a hummock, he returned to find -Frederick and the dog-sledge. The others coming up, all went into -camp fully tired out, for, besides the roughness of the ice, they -had encountered a stiff wind. Two ptarmigans were seen near Cape -Stanton. - -On the 25th of April Frederick declined breakfast—evidence of -something wrong with him. Lockwood, therefore, resolved to go up to -a gorge he had seen the previous day, and there go into camp and lie -over a day. Frederick could hardly walk, and hence rode when it was -possible. Finding a snow-slope inside the hummocks, they made good -progress and reached “Gorge Rest” in one hour. In the mean while the -sun came out, and the air became calm and warm, affording a good -opportunity for drying wet clothes and bags. Lockwood gave a drink -of brandy to Frederick, and then displayed Mrs. Greely’s silk flag, -as they had now attained a point higher than any American had before -reached. In the afternoon, Jewell and Ralston succeeded in finding -Beaumont’s _cache_ farther on, and, as proof of their discovery, -brought back a can of rum marked “Bloodhound,” the name of his -sledge. It was about there that his first man was sent back with the -scurvy. Afterward, when all but two had the disease, they had to go -on or die in the traces. - -On the 26th, Frederick was well, otherwise he would have been sent -back. They built a _cache_ and left one day’s ration for men and -dogs; also, to lighten load, snow-shoes, head and foot gear, -blankets, indeed everything they could do without. They reached -Stanton Gorge, dropped load, and Frederick was sent back with the -team for the rest of their stuff. The men came in without doubling, -having also found Beaumont’s _cache_ on a high hill. They all agreed -that such unnecessary labor was enough to bring on the scurvy. They -found there fifty-six pounds of pemmican, ten pounds of bacon, and a -large box containing bread, potatoes, chocolate, tea, sugar, -onion-powder, and stearine used for fuel, all of which were taken on -to Cape Bryant. Beyond this point, to Cape Stanton, their route lay -along the foot of steep snow-slopes beneath the cliffs, with lines -of floe-bergs and hummocks outside, and was exceedingly rough. -Lockwood and Frederick, after crossing Hand Bay, passed the men -moving slowly and laboriously. Their troubles were increased by -frequent upsettings of the sledges along the slope and by the -friction of the splintered bottoms owing to the runners cutting -through. - -It was not till 8 P. M. that they all reached Frankfield Bay, and, -thoroughly tired out, went into camp, after an advance of nine miles -in thirteen hours. - -Here they cached one day’s rations for all, and then traveled along -the low shore which skirted the base of Mount Lowe, and came upon -the snow-covered surface of Frankfield Bay, a small and pretty -harbor surrounded by steep mountains. Beyond this bay, they crossed -a spit of land, going up a steep slope, and down another equally -steep at a run. There they threw off a half load and went back for -the rest. Afterward all proceeded with half-loads, Lockwood taking -his post at the traces and pulling with the men. After a while he -dropped off to help Frederick, while the men went on to Cape Bryant. -Taking advantage of an interval of leisure, he got out the lamp and -made just two pint-cups of tea for Frederick and himself. “Of all -the occasions,” he says, “when a draught of tea tasted particularly -good, none like this lingers in my memory. Though without milk and -with very little sugar, it tasted like nectar. In fact, as the gods -never undertook any Arctic sledge-journeys, their nectar was not -half so delicious.” - -On the 27th, Lockwood shot five ptarmigans or Arctic quails. Sitting -on a floe-berg, they were scarcely distinguishable from the snow. -The traveling on that day was on the whole fair; yet so heavily were -the sledges loaded, and so much worn, that when, after making -fifteen miles in twelve hours, they reached Cape Bryant at 8.30 P. -M., both men and dogs were nearly exhausted. To add to their -joylessness, they had to be very sparing of their rations. -Cracker-dust was with them the grand panacea for short rations. This -went into every stew, was mixed with their tea, and was even taken -alone, and found to be very _filling_. By its aid, they persuaded -themselves that the short allowance was a hearty repast. - -On the 28th, Brainard and others made an unsuccessful search for a -_cache_ left there by Beaumont, but got a good view of Cape -Britannia from a high cliff. Lockwood and Jewell also saw it from a -height back of the camp. Beaumont had seen Cape Britannia, but never -reached it. He got only thirty miles farther than Cape Bryant; that -is, to the opposite side of the fiord which here appears, and which -they called “Beaumont’s Fiord.” While Frederick brought up some -stores left behind, Lockwood busied himself with many details -connected with his further advance toward the north, for now his -supports were to leave him and return to the Boat Camp, while -Brainard, Frederick, and himself, with the dog-sledge, were to -proceed alone. - -Lockwood now satisfied himself by a careful inspection of the -sledges that the supporting party could go no farther, especially as -some of the men were suffering with snow-blindness. He therefore -broke up one of the sledges, and with it repaired the remaining -drag-sledge and the dog-sledge. Brainard, also suffering with -snow-blindness, remained in the tent, while Lockwood with the others -built a _cache_ and deposited therein the Beaumont stores and such -others as they could not take on. Food for the return party to Boat -Camp having been dropped _en route_, he decided to take with him -twenty-five days’ rations. Hence their advance must be limited to -the time these rations would feed them, going northeast and -returning to Cape Bryant. - -He started, therefore, with— - - Men-rations, weighing 230 pounds. - Dog-pemmican, weighing 300 ” - Equipments, weighing 176 ” - Dog-sledge, weighing 80 ” - Total 786 ” - -or about 98 pounds to each dog. - - -The weather, though cold, causing some frost-bites, had been -beautiful during their stay here. The men had done their parts well, -and had endured uncomplainingly much hard work, hardship, and -exposure. The supporting party left at 4 P. M., after hearty -hand-shaking and wishing good luck to Lockwood, Brainard, and -Frederick, leaving the three lonely and depressed on that desolate -shore. - -And now, as the returning party disappeared in the distance, the -explorers turned toward Cape Britannia. Although they started with a -very heavy load, yet the traveling was fine, and, all three pushing, -they made rapid progress, having Cape May directly ahead and across -the fiord. The dogs seemed to object to going over the sea, and kept -deflecting constantly to the right, the only difficulty arising from -the deepening of the snow and its becoming soft. When they got -stuck, Brainard would pull at the traces, while Lockwood would push -at the upstand, and Frederick divide his energies between helping -them and inducing the dogs to do so. - -At 1 A. M. on April 30th, they camped on the fiord, well satisfied -with their advance of sixteen miles in eight hours without once -doubling. - -Moving off at 5 P. M. with full load, they had not gone far before -they were forced to throw off half of it, and soon with this half -they found it difficult to get along, for the sledge would sink down -to the slats and the men to their knees through the deep, soft snow. -Lockwood could fully appreciate poor Brainard’s efforts and labors -in a fiord at the southwest, when he crawled through snow -waist-deep, and on hands and knees, for two hundred yards. At 9 P. -M. they came to hummocks, pitched tent, threw off load, and, while -Lockwood prepared supper, the others went back with the team to -bring up what they had thrown off. They had to adhere strictly to -the allowance, for they had rations for just so many days. They had -advanced six miles in seven hours and three quarters. - -They started again the next morning with full load, but soon had to -pitch off again. Had better traveling, on the whole, than on the -previous day, though meeting with ranges of old floes and hummocks -filled in with snow. Shortly after midnight, they came abreast Cape -May, the desire of Beaumont, but which, with his crew broken down -with scurvy, and with heavy sledges loaded down with all kinds of -equipments, he never attained. The party pitched tent near an -immense floe extending as far back as the eye could reach. Brainard -and Frederick went back for the dismounted stuff, while Lockwood -turned cook again, the first thing being to pulverize a lot of ice -and set it on the lamp to melt. Cape Britannia and Beaumont Island -were very distinctly seen, the latter from refraction double. Their -allowance of alcohol was a constant source of trouble. They could -not afford meat for both breakfast and supper, hence their supper -consisted of tea, cracker-dust, and bean-stew. Advanced twelve miles -in fourteen hours. - -Lockwood and Brainard now took turns in cooking, Frederick being -excused. The two former did not sleep well, and, as usual, the -Esquimaux blew his trumpet loudly, but not sweetly. They left at 7 -P. M. with full load, but as usual threw off a portion, leaving -Brainard with it. Toward midnight they came to an open crack in the -ice ten feet wide, through which sea-water could be seen below, and -had to follow it several hundred yards before coming to a crossing. -Thinking this a favorable chance to get a deep-sea sounding, they -threw off the load, and Frederick went back for Brainard and the -balance of the stores, while Lockwood got into a sleeping-bag and -read “King Lear” until their return. In sounding, they ran out all -the line they had, then four coils of seal-thongs, then some rope, -and finally Frederick’s dog-whip, and got no bottom at eight hundred -and twenty feet. They began to haul up after debating whether they -should not risk the dog-traces, when, presto! the rope broke, and -all below was lost. Leaving their treasures in the deep, they moved -on with half-load over a low line of hummocky ice having the same -general direction as the crack, namely, toward Beaumont’s Island. -Beyond was an unbroken field of snow extending apparently to Cape -Britannia. Ice being required for supper, they went into camp on the -hummocks, going back, however, for the stores left behind, having -advanced eight miles in ten hours. - -After taking bearings, they broke camp at 4 P. M., and, with a full -load, proceeded over the level snowfield, broken here and there only -by hummocks trending in a curve toward Cape Britannia. Until -midnight the snow-crust sustained the sledge, but after that, -failing to do so, they had to reduce load. Wind and snow coming on, -they camped near a small ice-mound, after advancing fourteen miles -in fourteen hours, and again brought up the stores left behind. - -The next morning proved clear and calm, and gave them a full view of -the long-desired cape, which they reached at 8 P. M., pitching tent -on the ice-foot—four miles in one hour and a half. Lockwood had read -so much of scurvy, deep snows, etc., as associated with -sledge-journeys in the experience of the English expedition, that he -had come to regard them as inseparable from such enterprises. Yet -here they were, at a point which Beaumont saw only from afar, -without the first and without serious difficulty from the others. -Cape Britannia had been the _ultima Thule_ of Beaumont’s hopes, and -quite as far as Lieutenant Greely expected Lockwood to reach. But he -was able to go much farther, and would do so. He built a cairn, and -deposited a record of their journey to date, also rations for five -days for use on their return, the spare sledge-runner, and -everything they could do without. Leaving Frederick to see that the -dogs did not eat up the tent and everything in it, Lockwood and -Brainard climbed the adjacent mountain, two thousand and fifty feet -high, to view the magnificent prospect spread out before them from -that point. “We seemed,” Lockwood writes, “to be on an island -terminating some miles to the north in a rocky headland. To the -northeast, seemingly twenty miles away, was a dark promontory -stretching out into the Polar Ocean, and limiting the view in that -direction. Intermediate, were several islands separated by vast, -dreary fiords, stretching indefinitely southward. Extending halfway -round the horizon, the eye rested on nothing but the ice of the -Polar Sea; in-shore, composed of level floes, but beyond, of ridges -and masses of the roughest kind of ice. The whole panorama was -grand, but dreary and desolate in the extreme. After erecting a -monument, we were glad to escape the cold wind by returning.” - -While here, Lockwood took several astronomical observations. They -broke camp at 7 P. M., and traveled northward over smooth ice free -from snow, to the promontory, where they came in sight of the -distant headland northeast, which they had seen from the -mountain-top. Hearing a low, moaning sound, and looking to the -north, they saw a line of hummocks, and near it their old -acquaintance, the tidal crack, stretching in one direction toward -Beaumont Island, and in the other, curving toward Black Cape, as -Lockwood named the headland northeast of them. Repairing their -sledge, which had given way, they proceeded toward this headland, -having fairly good traveling though somewhat obstructed by soft and -deep snow, and camped at midnight near a hummock and not far from -the crack, from which Frederick tried, without success, to get a -seal. This would have relieved his mortified feelings at the loss of -a ptarmigan he had shot at the cape, and which Ritenbank had stolen. -Took observations for latitude and longitude before turning into -their sleeping-bags. Advanced eleven miles in five hours. - -The observations were repeated next morning, and they then went on -their course. After going a considerable distance, they halted to -rest and to view the tide-crack, now near them and about one hundred -yards across, filled in here and there with young ice or detached -masses. This crack was incomprehensible, differing from those seen -in the straits, which were near shore and so narrow as to attract -little attention. Frederick gave Lockwood to understand by signs and -gestures that after a while the ice outside, or north of the crack, -would move oft seaward. Resuming their way, they soon after passed -Blue Cape, and thence crossing a small fiord got to Black Cape, the -bold, rocky headland they had seen from the mountain. Beyond Black -Cape, and in the same general direction, but seen indistinctly, -appeared a dark, rocky cape, which Lockwood called Distant Cape, -because, seeming so near, it was yet so far, as they afterward -found. At Black Cape were seen bear-tracks, also those of the fox, -hare, and lemming, in great numbers. The tide-crack here came near -the shore, and then extended directly across to the next cape. The -ice along shore indicated having sustained enormous pressure. Great -bergs and hummocks, weighing thousands of tons, had been pushed upon -the ice-foot like pebbles. - -The ice-foot offering better traveling, they followed that course, -though it took them somewhat away from Distant Cape. Leaving it, -they crossed what seemed to them a little bay, but it took them one -hour and a half to reach the cape on the farther side. Seeing a -large fiord intervening between them and Distant Cape which they had -wished to reach before encamping, they gave up the effort and -pitched their tent. Soon after, Frederick shot a hare, but only -wounding him, they had to expend all their remaining strength in -running him down. But food was now everything, and they spared -neither the hare nor themselves. They called that point Rabbit -Point, in memory of the friend who served them a good turn. Advanced -seventeen miles in ten hours. - -Having, on account of a snow-storm, failed to get the sun on the -south meridian, Lockwood waited until it should come round to the -north meridian, as this matter of observations was important, and -difficult to attend to _en route_. In the mean time, they cached -some rations. Saw some ptarmigans, but failed to shoot them. Left -near midnight, and having crossed the hummocks thrust in against all -these capes, reached the level surface of an immense bay which they -were two and one quarter hours in crossing, after untold labor and -fatigue, through deep snow, so wet that they seemed to be wading -through soft clay. They reached the opposite shore, bathed in -perspiration, Lockwood going in advance to encourage the dogs. -Sometimes they went down waist-deep. The mass of hummocks came up so -near the cliffs as to force the travelers outside. Still, Distant -Cape was farther on, with a fiord intervening. At four o’clock, they -reached this long-sought point, and looked ahead to see what lay -beyond. Away off in the same general direction (northeast) was seen -another headland, separated from them by a number of fiords and -capes, which lay on an arc connecting Distant Cape with that in the -far distance. Inclining to the right, they made their way toward one -of these intermediate capes. Sometimes seeing it and sometimes not, -they finally reached it at 6 A. M., and, being unable to see -anything ahead, went into camp. Soon afterward a pyramidal island -loomed up through the storm in the northeast. They enjoyed part of -their rabbit for supper, almost raw, for they had no alcohol to -waste on luxuries, and carefully laid away the other half for -further indulgence. But Ritenbank saw that half rabbit stowed away, -and he too liked rabbit, as will be seen. After supper Lockwood made -observations, and of trials and tribulations this was not the least. -Face chilled, fingers frozen, and sun so low as to require him to -lie in the snow; the sun like a grease-spot in the heavens, and -refusing to be reflected; snow-drifts over artificial horizon cover; -sextant mirrors becoming obscure, vernier clouded, tangent-screw too -stiff to work; then, when one had nearly secured a contact, some dog -interposing his ugly body or stirring up the snow; such were some of -the difficulties to be overcome. Still, these observations must be -made, and carefully and correctly made, or otherwise the chief value -of the expedition would be lost. They secured double sets of -observations here, which delayed them, but got off near midnight -from this cape, which Lockwood called Low Point, and made good time -toward the dim headland at the northeast. In two hours and a half -they reached the cape, which he named Surprise, because they came -upon it unexpectedly looming up through the gloom. Beyond and to the -right was seen through the storm a dome-capped island, the -inevitable inlet intervening. The traveling proving good, they -reached it at four, and found it to be the end of a long line of -grand, high, rocky cliffs, bearing far to the south. - -The ice-foot here being free from snow, the dogs took the sledge -along at a trot, and the explorers rode by turns—the first time -since leaving Boat Camp. The trend of the coast-line becoming nearly -east, Lockwood began to think the time had come for leaving the -coast and striking off directly toward the pole, as arranged for in -his orders. As this was a matter requiring full consideration, he -stopped to get an observation, but, defeated in this by the drifting -snow, they went into camp at 6 A. M., having advanced seventeen -miles in less than seven hours. - -After sleeping, Lockwood rose to take observations. While so doing, -and hence out of the tent, he heard a noise in it, and suspected -mischief. Sure enough, there was that old thief, Ritenbank, coolly -eating up the remains of the rabbit they had kept for a second -feast. A dash and a blow, and the dog scampered off, dropping part -of the animal in his flight. They had reached the state of not being -particular about what they ate, so they gathered up the remains and -ate them on the spot. - -Resuming their journey at 1 A. M., they traveled under a long line -of high cliffs, with hills in the rear. The travel was excellent, -but the weather abominable—high winds, with falling and drifting -snow. After three hours of progress in an easterly course, a -headland was seen obliquely to their left, between which and -themselves lay a wide fiord. After an observation of the sun, they -struck directly across this fiord for the headland in question, -which they finally reached after repeatedly losing themselves in the -mist and gloom. Here they stopped awhile to eat pemmican and view -the surroundings. Found many rabbit-tracks, but saw none of the -animals. In Arctic traveling, one craves warm meat, but seldom gets -any but that which is frozen. Continuing along this coast over a -good ice-foot, they were pleased to see on their left a small island -with a high, narrow ledge, a few hundred yards long. This they -reached and went to the north side or end of it. Mist and snow -shutting in the land farther on, and also that already passed, they -camped, having advanced twenty-two miles in nine and a half hours. - -Finding traveling so troublesome in the storm, and much difficulty -in getting observations, Lockwood resolved to remain there for -better weather, all sleeping as much and eating as little as -possible. Indeed, Brainard agreed with Lockwood that, if the -easterly trend of the coast should continue, they had better spend -their time in going directly north over the sea. On the 11th, it -being still stormy and no other land in sight, they remained in -their sleeping-bags on the island, which from its shape was first -called “Shoe Island,” but afterward “Mary Murray.” All of them -suffered greatly with cold feet in the mean while; and, although -Lockwood’s feet were wrapped in blankets, furs, and socks, they were -like lumps of ice. To husband their few rations, they had eaten very -little of late, and doubtless to this may be attributed their cold -feet. The dogs were ravenous for food. When feeding-time came, it -was amid blows from the men and fights among the dogs that the -distribution was made. Old Howler was conspicuous on these -occasions. That he might secure all he could, he bolted ball after -ball of the frozen mass, and then would wander around, uttering the -most unearthly howls while the mass was melting in his stomach. He -was, indeed, a character. He had an air of utter weariness and -dejection, as well he might, for who can be more miserable than the -dethroned monarch, jeered, cuffed, and condemned by his late -subjects? One day one of the dogs swallowed a live lemming, and the -little animal went squealing all the way down to the corporation. - -The weather clearing up a little the next morning, Lockwood took sun -observations, and soon after saw a cape with very high land behind -it, at the northeast. But the storm setting in again, they could not -attempt to cross the mouth of the deep fiord intervening between -them and the cape until nearly two hours after midnight. The -traveling being good, and aided by a high wind, they made good time -across the fiord toward the cape, alternately visible and invisible, -and reached it in two hours. This cape proved to be the extremity of -a line of high, rocky cliffs, stretching toward the southeast. Here -they found the ice-foot entirely obstructed by lines of floe-bergs -and hummocks pressed up nearly to the foot of the cliff, and to add -to their difficulty, the tide-crack ran here close to the cape. With -great labor they got the dogs and sledge upon a hummock, thence -along its surface, using the axe, and finally lowered them down -again, and, by a bridge over the crack, gained a level floe half a -mile beyond the cape. There, finding a branch crack twelve or -fifteen feet wide, Frederick went forth to seek a crossing, while -Lockwood and Brainard obtained a peep at the sun for position. The -fog rising, the grandest view they had yet seen was suddenly -disclosed. To their right were seen the high cliffs connected with -the cape just passed, bending to the southeast to form an inlet. -Away beyond and across this inlet, and east of them, was the farther -shore—a line of very high cliffs, terminating in a bold headland -northeast of their position. Back of the cape and cliffs, the land -became higher and higher, till, just east of the travelers, stood a -peak apparently four thousand feet high. Between them and the cliffs -below the peak was seen an island of pyramidal shape and quite high. -The explorers made good time toward it, over a level floe, as some -hummocks and tide-cracks at the mouth of the inlet prevented them -from going direct to the cape. Thence, after a short rest and a -relish of pemmican, they took their way toward the cape, now -standing nearly north of them. Soon the snow became so deep and soft -that the sledge often sank below the slats, the dogs to their -bellies, and the men to their knees. Fortunately, the load was very -light, and yet, had not the deep snow soon after become dry and -feathery, they could not have proceeded. It was then that Lockwood -promised himself never to undertake another sledge-journey, a -resolve afterward easily forgotten when in camp with a full stomach. -Time, rest, plenty to eat, and a good smoke, sometimes make -philosophers, was the reflection recorded. About noon, after -changing their course around an easterly bend of the cliff, they -came to what might be regarded as the northern extremity of the -cape, beyond which lay the inevitable fiord. Here they camped on the -ice-foot, below a mass of picturesquely colored rocky cliffs, and -essayed, but failed, to get observations. Their advance was sixteen -miles in ten hours. - -On the 14th of May, occurred a storm so violent that it seemed as if -the tent must be blown down. Ritenbank took advantage of it to -burrow under the tent and lay hold of a bag of pemmican, but a -timely blow on his snout “saved their bacon.” After discussion with -Brainard, Lockwood concluded to go no farther, as their remaining -rations would hardly suffice to enable them satisfactorily to -determine their present position. While waiting for the sun that -this might be done, they improvised a checker-board from the -chopping-board, and played some games. After a while, finding that -the cliffs somewhat interfered with the observations, they moved the -tent farther west, stopping to build a cairn, large and conspicuous, -and depositing a full record of their journey and a thermometer. -This cairn stood on a little shelf or terrace below the top of the -cliff. Brainard also cut “XXX Bitters” on the highest rock of the -cliff he could reach, Lockwood telling him he only wanted to get a -bottle for nothing on the strength of his advertisement. They were -engaged until midnight, chiefly in taking observations and in -collecting specimens of rocks and vegetation. Some snow-birds were -seen. - -The next morning the weather became warm, beautiful, and delightful, -the sun bright and sky clear, and there was no wind—surely a bit of -sunshine in a shady place. - -[Illustration: Taking Observations at Lockwood Island.] - -They took advantage of this to bring out hand-gear, foot-gear, bags, -and rubber blankets to dry, everything having been damp or wet for -nearly a week. Lockwood and Brainard got but a few short naps after -supper, for it was necessary for one of them to be awake to insure -their getting up at the right time to take “double altitudes,” etc. -They secured a complete set of observations, thirty-six in all. A -few hours later, Lockwood and Brainard started to make the ascent of -the cliffs and of the height beyond. They gained a considerable -elevation, and stood on a little plateau overlooking both sides of -the promontory, the sea, and a large extent of mountainous country -to the south thickly covered with snow. Lockwood unfurled Mrs. -Greely’s pretty little silk flag to the breeze, and felt very proud -that, on the 15th day of May, 1882, it waved in a higher latitude -than was ever before reached by man. By careful astronomical -observations under peculiarly favorable circumstances, they found -themselves in latitude eighty-three degrees and twenty-four and a -half minutes north, longitude forty degrees and forty-six and a half -minutes west of Greenwich, thus surpassing the English, who sent the -Nares Expedition of 1875-’76, costing upward of a million dollars, -for the express purpose of reaching the north pole, and which -expedition sent its chief sledge-party directly north over the ice -for the purpose of making _latitude alone_. The view from their -lofty station was grand beyond description. At their feet, toward -the east, was another of those innumerable fiords, a bald headland -forming its farther cape, bearing northeast. Seemingly projecting -from its foot was a low point of land, doubtless separated from -another by still another fiord. This was as far as Lockwood could -see in that direction—probably fifteen miles. Thence round toward -the north and in the direction of Cape Britannia lay the vast Polar -Sea, covered with ice and desolate in the extreme. Toward the south -lay a vast panorama of snow-capped mountains, so overlapping and -merging one into another that it was impossible to distinguish the -topography of the country. They stayed on the top only twenty -minutes, and at 4.50 reached camp again, greatly to the delight of -Frederick. He had seemed a good deal “down at the mouth” of late, -which Brainard thought was caused by their long distance from home -and the absence of dog-food and “skaffer.” Hastily packing up their -small load, they started on their return at 5.30 P. M. Though taking -a more direct course across the first fiord, they met with soft -snow, which was very tiresome to pass through. The weather now -commenced to cloud up again, threatening another storm. It was very -fortunate that they reached their farthest just in time to take -advantage of the thirty hours of fine weather. However, they were -now homeward bound, and did not care for storms or anything else, -provided they could “_move on_,” nor did they require any policeman -to help them in that particular. - -And now that Lockwood is returning from his special expedition in -safety and good health, a few additional facts and a passing -reflection on his exploit will not be out of place. Lieutenant -Lockwood’s motives in undertaking this special expedition, in which -he was so successful, he explained in these words: “My great wish is -to accomplish something on the north coast of Greenland which will -reflect credit on myself and on the expedition. But there are many -ifs in the way—many visible contingencies on which success depends, -as well as many invisible ones which have never suggested -themselves. Among the former, scurvy stands like a giant, and if -this giant attacks us, far from accomplishing anything, we may not -ourselves get back.” As we think of Lockwood, at the end of his -journey, with only two companions, in that land of utter desolation, -we are struck with admiration at the courage and manly spirit by -which he was inspired. Biting cold, fearful storms, gloomy darkness, -the dangers of starvation and sickness, all combined to block his -icy pathway, and yet he persevered and accomplished his heroic -purpose, thereby winning a place in history of which his countrymen -may well, and will be, proud to the end of time. Of all the heroic -names that have blossomed on the charts of the Arctic seas during -the present century, there is not one that will hereafter be -mentioned with more pride and enthusiasm than that identified with -Lockwood Island, memorable as the nearest point to the north pole -ever reached by man. - - - - - XII - FROM LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. - - -When returning to Lady Franklin Bay, Lockwood and his companions -reached Shoe Island shortly after midnight. They deposited a record -in the cairn there, and proceeded to the cape west of the island, -where they went into camp, after a retreat of twenty miles in eight -hours. Lockwood suffered much from his eyes, having evidently -strained them while endeavoring to see the sun during the late -stormy weather. The cold food, upon which alone they could depend, -seemed to weaken the stomachs of all the party, and yet they plodded -on. At Storm Cape, they left the grand line of cliffs behind, and -took a compass course across the great fiord, amid a storm as before -when they crossed that inlet. As usual, the dogs thought they knew -best, and Frederick thought he knew best, so the compass received -little consideration, and they inclined too much to the left, being -three hours and twenty minutes in crossing. They stopped at a cairn -and deposited a record. In another hour they reached Pocket Bay, and -in another, Dome Cape, and then, crossing the inlet, went into camp. -“Skaffer” was soon ready, cold chocolate, and a stew with lumps of -ice floating round in it, particularly unfortunate after a march -which was perhaps the most uncomfortable of the trip. It had been -blowing and snowing all day directly in their faces—very severe on -snow-blind eyes, which it was necessary in crossing the fiords to -keep open in order to see the way. In addition to this, strange to -say, Lockwood suffered with cold hands. Generally, while traveling, -they were warm enough, and only got cold when stopping; but on that -day they were aching with cold a great part of the time. The dogs -had eaten up his seal-skin mits some time before, and the woolen -ones gave little protection against the storm, with the mercury 30° -below zero. They found the ice-foot now generally covered with snow, -but they retreated twenty-seven miles in eight hours and forty -minutes. Left camp shortly after 5 P. M., and, passing Cape -Surprise, struck directly across the fiord for Distant Cape. When -opposite their old camp at Low Point, a glacier was seen in the -interior, a green wall of ice lying at the foot of what looked like -a low, dome-shaped hill, but which must have been a mass of ice -covered with snow, as is all the interior of this country. The -travel over the floe was quite good, but when just beyond Distant -Cape, they found themselves in the deep snow of the wide fiord to -the west of it, a part of the route they had been dreading for some -time. They finally, however, reached the farther side. The dogs must -have smelled the pemmican in _cache_ there, for, during the last two -hundred yards, they bent all their energies to the work and seemed -wild to get ashore. They pulled the sledge through a fringe of -hummocky ice at the coast in a way that proved how they _could_ pull -when they set their hearts on business. The weather during the day -was variable. When they started, it was quite thick, and the wind -blew strongly in their faces, making the traveling very -disagreeable; but toward the latter part of the march, the wind died -away and the sun appeared. The traveling was better than when -outward bound, the late storm having improved it very much. Brainard -did all the cooking, Lockwood chopping the ice and assisting in -various ways. They got off a little after six, and in two hours were -at Black Cape. Here they stopped awhile and built a cairn, and at -Blue Cape stopped again. The next four and a half hours they pursued -their monotonous course across the floe, Lockwood indulging in these -reflections: “What thoughts one has when thus plodding along! Home -and everything there, and the scenes and incidents of early youth! -Home, again, when this Arctic experience shall be a thing of the -past! But it must be confessed, and lamentable, it is, as well as -true, that the reminiscences to which my thoughts oftenest recur on -these occasions are connected with eating—the favorite dishes I have -enjoyed—while in dreams of the future, my thoughts turn from other -contemplations to the discussion of a beefsteak, and, equally -absurd, to whether the stew and tea at our next supper will be hot -or cold.” - -They next camped some miles from North Cape, opposite the immense -fiord there, which runs inland an interminable distance without -visible land at its head. Lockwood had intended going up this fiord -to what seemed like the opening of a channel on the south side of -Cape Britannia, but the uncertainty and their fatigue finally -induced him to continue the way they had come, the weather being -delightful. Ritenbank went about all day with his head and tail -down, perhaps repenting his numerous thefts. Advanced seventeen -miles in eight hours. - -Left camp at 6 P. M., and in about three hours reached North Cape, -where they stopped some time to take a sub-polar observation, making -its latitude 82° 51′. Cape Britannia was reached without event, and -there they stopped long enough to get the rations left in _cache_, -and deposit a record in the cairn; then continued on the floe a -half-mile to get out of the shadow of the mountain. At the cairn -they got the snow-shoes left there, and the spare sledge-runner. -They also collected some specimens of the vegetation and rocks, and -saw traces of the musk-ox, showing that these animals wander even -this far north. They saw also some snow-birds. They had thought that -when they reached Cape Britannia they would feel near home; but now -having reached it, the station seemed as far off as at any point -they had left behind, and they could not rest until Cape Bryant was -reached. - -The sun was very bright and warm when they left camp at 9.50 P. M., -but a heavy fog hung like a curtain on the horizon, and shut out the -land all around. They were, in fact, traveling on the Polar Sea, out -of sight of land. Shortly after starting, Lockwood put on snow-shoes -to try them, and found immense relief at once. He blamed himself -every day for a week for not having tried them during the journey -out, and thus saved himself many hours of the most fatiguing travel -through deep snow. Brainard, seeing the advantage, put on the other -pair, and from that time there was nothing about which they were so -enthusiastic as the snow-shoes. They afterward wore them more or -less every day. At 6 A. M. they went into camp on the floe. The fog -by this time had disappeared, and everything was singularly bright -and clear. Advanced sixteen miles in eight hours, and got off again -a little after 8 A. M. - -It was a beautiful day, calm and clear, and the sun was really too -warm for dogs and men. They got along very well, however, on the -snow-shoes, and one of the men keeping ahead to encourage the dogs -and make a straight course, they finally reached, at the place they -had crossed before, their old friend, the tidal crack, now frozen -over. They lunched regularly every day on pemmican and hard bread, -and rested whenever tired. A beautiful parhelion was seen, one of -the most complete yet observed, in the perfection of its circles and -the brightness of its colors. The blue, yellow, and orange were very -distinct. They went into camp after four, the weather cloudy and -threatening snow, having advanced sixteen miles in eight hours. They -left again at 8.40 P. M. Snow falling, and no land being in sight, -they kept near the right course by means of the compass. Their -course was north-west (magnetic), the variation being in the -neighborhood of ninety degrees. Went into camp near St. George’s -Fiord at 4.40 A. M., suffering a good deal from snow-blindness -afterward. During the march were troubled very little, strange to -say. Rations were now getting low. The snow was very soft, and, -owing to this and the warm sun, the dogs “complained” a good deal. -Advanced sixteen miles in eight hours. Started off again at 8.40 P. -M., reached shore shortly after twelve, about three quarters of a -mile short of Cape Bryant, and, following the coast, pitched tent at -the old camping-ground. After visiting the cairn on the hill, they -determined to make up arrears by having a royal feast—anticipated -for many days. “How nice that English bacon must be! How superior -that English pemmican to the abominable lime-juice pemmican!” -Brainard made a generous stew out of the aforesaid, with a liberal -allowance of desiccated potatoes, etc., and they “pitched in!” But -oh! what disappointment! Before eating a half-dozen spoonfuls they -came to a dead halt, and looked at each other. Even Frederick -stopped and gazed. The dish was absolutely nauseating. “Oft -expectation fails, and most where most it promises.” Fortunately, -there was left there a tin of frozen musk-ox meat, with other stores -rendered surplus by the supporting party being able to go no -farther. After this _feast_ on the English stores, they confined -themselves to the musk-ox. The English pemmican, though a little -musty, when eaten cold was quite palatable. This and the bacon were -each put up in metallic cases. The bacon they subsequently found to -be inclosed in _tallow_, and this it was that made their feast so -disappointing. After this they all went to look for Lieutenant -Beaumont’s _cache_, left here when his party was disabled by scurvy. -The search was unsuccessful, although they traveled the coast for -two miles and a half, advancing twelve miles in four hours. Getting -up at twelve, Lockwood and Brainard went out to the tide-crack about -half a mile from shore, and, by means of a rope and stone, undertook -to get a set of tidal observations. They kept up the observations -for nearly twelve hours, and then becoming satisfied that their -arrangements did not register the tide, owing to the depth, -currents, etc., gave it up, much disappointed. All their work went -for nothing. These observations made their eyes much worse, and both -suffered with snow-blindness all the rest of the way. - -While thus occupied, the dogs took advantage of their absence to -visit the _cache_ and eat up part of a sack of hard bread and half a -dozen shot-gun cartridges—the shot and the brass being rather -indigestible. They left camp after midnight and a beautiful morning -followed, calm and clear, the sun unpleasantly warm; and no wonder, -since Lockwood was wearing three heavy flannel shirts, a -chamois-skin vest, a vest of two thicknesses of blanket (double all -round), a knitted guernsey and canvas frock, besides two or three -pairs of drawers, etc. - -They tramped along on snow-shoes, and a couple of hours after -starting, Brainard, who was on the hill-side to the left, -discovered, with his one unbandaged eye, relics of Beaumont—an old -Enfield rifle, a pole shod with iron, a cross-piece of a sledge, -three or four articles of underwear, some cartridges, sewing-thread -and thimble, and the remains of a shoe with a wooden sole about an -inch thick. Other articles mentioned by Lieutenant Beaumont in his -journal were not to be found. They may have been carried off by -animals or buried in the snow near by. The articles found were in a -little bare mound near the ice-foot. “Poor Beaumont! how badly he -must have felt when he passed along there with most of his party -down with scurvy, dragging their heavy sledge and heavier -equipments!” Farther on, Lockwood shot a ptarmigan on top of a large -floe-berg thirty feet high, and, by taking advantage of a snow-drift -and doing some “boosting,” they secured the bird. They stopped at -_cache_ No. 3 (near Frankfield Bay) and took out what the supporting -party had left there. Gave the dogs the lime-juice pemmican and -ground beans, but it was only by seeming to favor first one dog and -then another that they were induced to eat it, thus illustrating the -advantage of their “dog-in-the-manger” spirit. Went into camp on the -east shore of Hand Bay. Their buffalo sleeping-bag now began to feel -too warm, but was always delightfully soft and dry. Eyes painful. -Advanced twelve miles in ten hours. After crossing Hand Bay they -made a short stop at Cape Stanton. The Grinnell coast now became -very distinct, and seemed home-like. They could see Cape Joseph -Henry, or what they took for that headland. The floes off shore, -consisting of alternate floes crossed by ridges of hummocks, made -very laborious traveling. On reaching the _cache_ near Stanton -Gorge, they got the rations left there. The traveling continued very -difficult and tiresome. On reaching the Black Horn Cliffs, they -decided, as their old tracks were entirely obliterated, to follow -along under the cliffs, instead of taking the wide _détour_ they had -made going out. They got along pretty well for a while, and then -reached a mass of hummocks and rubble-ice. There they found a relic -of the past—a towel which the men had used to wipe the dishes, and -had lost or abandoned. By dint of hard work they got through this -bad ice, crossed the smooth, level floe adjoining, and then came to -the next patch of rubble-ice. After proceeding through this some -distance, the sledge needing relashing, Lockwood went on alone with -the axe, making a road as he went. Found the site of their old camp -on the shore, but, as the snow slope there had become impassable, he -kept along the coast on the floe and finally found a landing several -miles to the west. Sledge and all got here at eight o’clock, and -they continued on over the snow slopes, passing the remains of the -“Nares” sledge and reaching Drift Point, where they went into camp -alongside a big floe-berg, with lots of icicles upon it waiting for -them, having advanced twenty-two and a half miles in ten hours. -Finding strong winds and snow from the west, they delayed starting -till almost midnight. The ice-foot along this low, sloping shore -being excellent, they made good time, in an hour reaching the place -of their first camp on this coast. The melting of the floe-bergs and -the fall of the snow had so changed the general aspect, that the -place was hardly recognizable. At 2 A. M. they came opposite the -break in the cliff where they had entered on the coast in April. -They soon made out the dark object seen previously from this point -to be a cairn, and discovered a small bay which they knew must be -Repulse Harbor. Crossing this bay, they reached the cairn at three -o’clock. It was a tremendous affair, and the tin can inside was full -of papers by Beaumont, Dr. Coppinger, and others. As a cold wind was -blowing, Lockwood made a short-hand copy of the documents and left -the originals. - -Lockwood’s eyes filled with tears as he read the last postscript of -the several which followed the main record of poor Beaumont. Sitting -on these bare rocks amid snow and wind, with a desolate coast-line -on one side, and the wide, dreary straits on the other, he could -well appreciate what Beaumont’s feelings must have been when he -reached here with his party all broken down with scurvy, and, after -trying to cross the straits and failing on account of open water, -had no other recourse but to try and reach Thank-God Harbor. His -last postscript reads thus: - -“Repulse Harbor Depot, June 13, 1876.—Three of us have returned from -my camp, half a mile south, to fetch the remainder of the -provisions. D—— has failed altogether this morning. Jones is much -worse, and can’t last more than two or three days. Craig is nearly -helpless. Therefore we can’t hope to reach Polaris Bay without -assistance. Two men can’t do it. So will go as far as we can and -live as long as we can. God help us! - (Signed) “L. A. Beaumont.” - -He and Gray were the only ones left, and both shortly discovered -scorbutic symptoms. - -Chilled through, Lockwood now continued along the coast to the west, -following the ice-foot under a grand line of cliffs. After a while, -they came to a narrow break or cleft in the cliffs, the gateway of a -small mountain-torrent. It was like a winding and dark alley in a -city, with vertical sides rising to the height of several hundred -feet. Entering it, they presently came to an immense snow-drift, -probably fifty or more feet high and filling up the gorge like a -barricade, with another a little beyond. They returned to the -sledge, thoroughly satisfied that Beaumont never went through that -place. About seven they came to what seemed to be the “Gap Valley” -of the English, a wide, broad valley, extending due south about -three miles to a ravine. They therefore turned off from the coast -and followed it, encountering a good deal of deep snow and bare, -stony spots. At 11 A. M. they camped in the ravine near its head, -thoroughly tired out. They now had only one day’s food left, and it -behooved them to make Boat Camp in another march, even though fifty -miles off. Advanced seventeen miles in eleven hours. The dogs for -several days had been on short allowance, and during their sleep -tore open the bag of specimen rocks and stones, but fortunately did -not chew them up as they had done the cartridges. - -Getting off at 3.29 and crossing the table-land, they struck a -narrow gorge running precipitately down to Newman’s Bay. At its head -was a mountainous drift of snow, which they descended on the run; -then came a number of smaller drifts, completely blocking up the -gorge, over which they had to lower the sledge by hand. Near the -bay, they discovered a singular snow-cave one hundred feet long, and -occupying the entire bed of the stream, arched through its whole -length by beautiful ribs of snow, from which depended delicate -snow-crystals. The entrance was quite small, but inside, the roof -was far above their heads. They lost sight of its picturesqueness in -the thought of its fitness for the burrow of a sledge-party. This -brought them on the smooth surface of the bay, with familiar -landmarks before and around them—Cape Sumner, Cape Beechy, and far -in the distance, Distant Point and the land near Franklin Bay. -Looking back at the ravine from the bay, Lockwood felt sure no one -would ever take this little, insignificant, narrow gully for the -route of a sledge-party, and that no one traveling this, or the one -they took going out, would ever take either again in preference to -going round Cape Brevoort. They delayed along the shore of the bay -almost an hour, leisurely building a cairn and viewing the scenery, -and then going on, reached the farther side at eight o’clock, making -their last final retreat of ten miles in five hours and a half. -There was the whale-boat, and pitched alongside it, anchored down by -stones and held by ropes, the six-man tent of the supporting party. -Inside were Sergeants Lynn and Ralston, and Corporal Ellison, fast -asleep. Lockwood had told Lynn to send back to Conger three of his -party on reaching Boat Camp. The remaining three awaited his return. -The work of pitching tent woke up the other party, and soon they -heard the sound of the Polaris fog-horn (picked up near by), and saw -three heads projecting from the tent, whose owners gave them a warm -welcome, as well they might, after awaiting their return nearly a -month at this place, the dreariest of all in that dreary region. The -remaining stores were ransacked for a big feast, without regard to -the rations. Corned and boiled beef, canned potatoes and beans, -butter, milk, and canned peaches, made a meal fit for a king or for -gods that had just experienced an Arctic sledge-journey. The -monotonous life of these men had been varied only by a visit from -two bears, and the arrival of Dr. Pavy—sent by Lieutenant Greely -with some rations. - -The news from the station was that Dr. Pavy with Sergeant Rice and -Esquimaux Jans had got only as far as Cape Joseph Henry, when they -were stopped by open water. Lockwood had taken it for granted that -the doctor would attain Markham’s latitude and excel his own. -Lieutenant Greely had been west from Fort Conger on a trip of twelve -days in the mountains, and had discovered a large lake with a river -flowing out of it, which had no ice on its surface—something very -wonderful. The vegetation had also shown a much milder atmosphere -than anywhere else in these latitudes. Numerous Esquimaux relics had -been found, and many musk-oxen seen. - -Turning their backs on the Boat Camp, and with many loud blasts on -the Polaris fog-horn, they started at 11.25 P. M. for Fort Conger. - -The snow along the snow-slopes was badly drifted, but with so many -to help, they got along without much delay and soon reached Cape -Sumner. They found the rubble-ice south of that point worse than -before, and here and there were little pools of water. The weather -was very thick, the wind blowing and snow falling, and the farther -side of the straits completely hidden, so that they went _via_ the -Gap, but there had to leave the shore and direct their course as -well as possible by compass. Presently they could see neither shore, -and got into a mass of rubble-ice, mixed with soft snow-drifts. Lynn -and party (Ralston and Ellison) had not traveled any for so long -that they began to get very much fatigued, and could not keep up -with the sledge. They had not slept since the arrival at the Boat -Camp, owing to the excitement of the occasion. The driving snow hurt -their eyes, and they were a very sorry party. However, they kept on, -and finally came in sight of the west coast, and some hours -afterward, finding good floes to travel over, a little before noon -reached the “tent on the straits”—about five miles from Cape -Beechy—Ellison and Ralston completely exhausted. - -_En route_ again, they spread the American flag on a long pole and -carried it thus till they reached the station. At the snow-house, -where they remained some hours to rest and get something to eat, -they found Ellis and Whistler, who had come up from Fort Conger to -look out for the party. - -All found their eyes more or less affected excepting Frederick. -Ralston’s were so bad that he was sent on in advance, led by Ellis. -He walked almost the whole way with his eyes closed. Lynn held on to -the upstanders of the sledge, and thus found his way. - -On the first day of June, Ralston and Lynn went in advance, led by -Ellis and Ellison. They could not see at all, and, as their guides -carried the guns and each had his man made fast by a strap, they -looked very much like a party of prisoners. At Watercourse Bay they -met Lieutenant Greely, who had come out to meet them, and was well -satisfied with the result of the expedition, and soon after they -reached Fort Conger. - -Lieutenant Lockwood not only received many hearty congratulations -from his companions, but even the weather, as if in sympathy with -the general gladness, became bright and cheerful. The important -business of working out the latitude that had been attained was now -proceeded with. Efforts were made to verify the prismatic compass -which was serviceable, but had a limited range. Much of the ground -around the station was bare of snow, and, as the temperature was -rising rapidly, Lockwood felt as if he would like to be off again on -a wild tramp. When he said something about certain sledge operations -in the future, Greely replied, “If you are content to go, I will -give you all the help I can.” - - - - - XIII. - WAITING AND WATCHING. - - -To a man of Lockwood’s character, the return to the station did not -mean that idleness was to be the order of the day, and while yet -suffering from rheumatic pains in his back, shoulders, legs, feet, -and joints, he began to mark out a trip for himself through Lady -Franklin Bay. In the mean time, some of the men were off trying to -obtain fresh meat, Frederick killing a hare and Jans a seal weighing -over five hundred pounds. Kislingbury amused himself with a pet owl, -which delighted him with a present of eggs. On the 9th of June, the -people at the station celebrated the birthday of their companion -Long by a good dinner, and on the following day Lockwood, -accompanied by his friends Brainard and Frederick, started with a -dog-train for his proposed tramp. They made their first halts at -Basil Norris Bay and at Sun Bay, and traveling over a level bed of -what had once been a fiord, thence passed on to Stony Point, and -then to Miller’s Island, where they encamped. Although they saw a -number of seals, they succeeded in killing only a couple of hares -and a brace of brants. Their next stopping-place was Keppel’s Head, -the route being very wet, in fact, almost a continuous lake. Having -nothing to wear but his moccasins, Lockwood’s feet were saturated -three minutes after starting, and became so cold that he thought -they would freeze. The pools were sometimes so deep as to wet the -load on the sledge. However, the dogs made good time, and they -reached Keppel’s Head at 11 P. M. Here the traveling became much -better, and they were able to avoid a good many of the pools. - -Passing Keppel’s Head, they kept a sharp lookout for Hillock Depot, -where Lieutenant Archer, R. N., had left a large number of rations. -They searched for some time before finding any signs, but finally -found the _cache_, and near by some pieces of United States hard -bread, and a little bag of American tea. This was interesting, as -proving that to have been the farthest that Long attained, although -he claimed to have reached the head of the fiord. The unpleasant -task then devolved on Lockwood of taking him down a peg or two. -Lieutenant Archer was a week reaching this place, Hillock Depot, -half-way up the fiord, which is about sixty miles long. The scenery -is grand. High cliffs, generally nearly vertical, ran along the -shores everywhere. Whenever they looked inland they saw a lofty mass -of snow-covered mountains. All this was so common, however, in all -the region, that it was only when _new_ that it was appreciated. -Lockwood and Brainard had a good laugh at Long’s expense, and then -turned into the two-man summer sleeping-bag, made of two blankets, -trimmed off so as to weigh no more than necessary, and inclosed in -another bag of light canvas. Their breakfast consisted of corned -beef, baked beans, tea, hard bread, and butter—a very fine repast. -Lockwood and Brainard both thought that this kind of traveling did -not pay on a “picnic” excursion, but, as they had started to go to -the head of the fiord, they did not like to turn back. The ice -promised to be worse on their return, and this, and Lockwood’s lame -foot, and the lameness of one of the dogs, decided him to return. -Leaving camp on return, they soon reached Keppel’s Head, and -afterward Basil Norris Bay, where they camped, and decided to remain -a day or two and have a hunt for musk-oxen. Mud, water, and -“sludge,” as well as Lockwood’s lameness, proved a drawback to his -success; but Frederick returned from his tramp, bringing along a -quarter of a musk-ox, having killed two and wounded a third, he -said. They seemed to have cost two dozen cartridges, and he had -probably stood off at a distance and bombarded them. - -Brainard returned after him. He had been up the vale as far as the -lake, and had seen a few geese and a rabbit. He brought back a -“skua” bird and some Esquimaux relics; had seen several circles of -stone, marking the summer camps of these people, and picked up a -good many bones, etc. All had something to eat, when the two started -out with the dog-team for the musk-oxen killed by Frederick. Then -came on a heavy rain, lasting for several hours, while the snow and -ice were fast disappearing. This was the first rain they had seen in -the country. - -During their absence from the station, to which they returned with -their game, seven musk-oxen had been killed and four calves caught -alive. The men had had an exciting time. The animals formed a hollow -square with the calves inside, and did some charging before they -were all down. - -The calves had been put in a pen a short distance from the house, -were very tame, and it was supposed little difficulty would be found -in raising them. They ate almost anything. - -On the 17th, Lockwood expressed his feelings as follows: “I find -myself oppressed with _ennui_, caused, I suppose, by the present -monotonous existence following the activity of my life since the -early spring.” - -On the 22d of June, a “turn-stone” (a bird of the snipe species) and -two or three ducks were shot. The little stream back of the house -was babbling along at a great rate, the snow fast disappearing. -Temperature 44°, which was about as high as it was likely to be, the -sun having reached its greatest northern declination, and the -temperature not having gone above this during the previous August. - -On the 24th, Lieutenant Greely and a party left for Hazen Lake and -beyond, to visit the western coast of the country if possible. In -the mean time, the dogs having attacked the young musk-oxen, came -near killing one of them. The dog King and two others were found on -top of “John Henry,” the smallest of the calves, and, but for -Frederick happening to see them and going to the rescue, “John -Henry” would soon have surrendered his ghost. - -During a walk on the 28th, Lockwood found North Valley River quite -full, and rushing along like a mountain-torrent. Open water-pools -were numerous near the shore. Had a fine view from Cairn Hill, two -thousand feet high, seeing extensive lanes of open water toward -Petermann’s Fiord. Weather delightful. - -On the 1st of July they had the second rain of the season, and -Lockwood was gloomy; existence extremely monotonous; he was almost -ashamed to confess how “blue” he felt. Ducks and other fowl brought -in almost daily; also Esquimaux relics frequently brought in. Men -arrived from Lieutenant Greely’s party on Lake Hazen and reported -all well there. He had found many interesting relics, and had seen -large droves of musk-oxen—between two and three hundred—in Black -Vale. On the 4th the men at the station celebrated the day by -displays of flags, shooting and other matches, and a base-ball game. -They succeeded in getting the Lady Greely afloat, and Cross repaired -pipes found to be out of order. They found that the flies were -blowing their fresh meat badly. Fearing that it might be lost, it -was ordered to be served more frequently. Long and Ellis, who had -returned from St. Patrick’s Bay, reported it as open. - -Lieutenant Greely and party returned on the 10th from Lake Hazen. -They had a good view westward for fifty miles from a mountain four -thousand feet high; saw no sea, but many glaciers. Found a large -river entering the lake at its southwestern extremity. - -Lockwood took the launch down to Dutch Island, giving all the men an -excursion. But for entertainments of this sort he was afraid he -should forget how to talk. The officers often went through a meal -without exchanging a word; so also through the day. He could not say -who was in fault. - -Loose ice was still filling the harbor and bay—paleocrystic floes -that had floated in. - -Brainard and Cross brought in eleven ducks killed at Breakwater -Point, having to swim in order to get them. - -Weather now mild, ice in harbor much broken up, and channel outside -open. Lieutenant Greely thought there was every reason for expecting -a relief-ship soon. It was very desirable on many accounts that she -should come. A false alarm of her approach created great excitement. -Some one said he saw her smoke in the distance. - -The hunters brought in ducks or other game almost daily. A weasel -was shot near the house—a beautiful little animal, yellow with black -tail. Dead wolves were sometimes found—probably those poisoned in -the winter. Brainard, Cross, and Ellis returned from Beechy, where -they killed three musk-oxen, two dozen geese, and some ducks. - -Lockwood occupied himself on his maps of the Greenland coast, adding -pictures of scenery from sketches taken _en route_. - -Jans, desiring to capture seals, tried to approach them by -interposing a cotton screen. But the seal had too much sense to wait -for him, and slipped off the ice into the water. - -On the 31st, Lockwood measured some ice-floes aground in the harbor, -finding them to be fourteen feet thick. He had seen many on his -northern trip which, by Nares’s rule of one seventh above water, -would have been thirty-five to forty-five feet thick. Of course, -these were paleocrystic floes, the accumulation of years. - -On the 7th of August, Lockwood went with Lieutenant Greely and a -party in the launch to Cape Lieber, finding the bay very free from -ice. Left near the cape some provisions for use in case of having to -retreat next year in boats, a subject which, from the non-arrival of -the ship, was then agitated. They got many Esquimaux relics. The -straits away down as far as Franklin Island and Cape Constitution, -as seen from an elevation, were free from ice. They could see -nothing to prevent the ship from coming. Returned in the evening, -landing at Proteus Point, because a large floe-berg had floated in -during their absence and occupied their harbor. - -Lieutenant Greely did not expect the ship before the 15th. Many eyes -were daily fixed on the bold profile of Cape Lieber, from behind -whose rocky face she must emerge, if she came at all. - -On the 13th, Lockwood, with Brainard, Lynn, Cross, Ralston, and -Fredericks, started in the launch on an excursion up Lady Franklin -Bay to the head of Archer Fiord, having in tow the boat Valorous -with Rice and crew as far as Musk-ox Bay. There they left Rice and -his boat and proceeded up the Archer Fiord, somewhat annoyed by -scattered ice and by some large bergs which they had to go around. -They had not gone far up the fiord before they saw, on a gentle -slope of the southern shore, a herd of musk-oxen grazing a few -hundred yards from the water. Though strategy was employed to -approach without being seen, the herd took the alarm and scampered -over the hills which terminated the slope. Lynn, anticipating this, -had gone some way up these heights, but the animals by a _détour_ -avoided him and soon passed over the crest of the heights. The slope -along there was sufficiently gentle to afford foothold to grass and -willows, and thus presented a landscape charming to those who had -gazed on little other than rocks and ice for so many months. Seeing -two other oxen some time after, near a steep hill overlooking a -rocky gorge, Lockwood, Brainard, and Frederick went for them, -Fredericks approaching in front, and Lockwood and Brainard, by a -flank movement, cutting off retreat. This resulted in the slaying of -both animals. But how to get them to the launch was the question, as -they were then a mile inland. Finally, cutting off the heads, they -gave the bodies an impetus down-hill. They went from steep to steep -like comets, leaving clouds of dust behind. Once or twice they -lodged on steps or terraces, from which they were dislodged, thence -to renew their journey downward. Afterward several other musk-oxen -and some ptarmigans were shot, thus providing abundant food for all -hands, with a large surplus to carry back to the station. - -As they progressed up the fiord, the scenery became more and more -grand and interesting. A glacier was seen some distance inland, at -the head of a stream bordered by vertical cliffs curiously colored -and of fantastic shapes. One pinnacle was apparently surmounted by -an old dilapidated castle. Though the fiord was not wide at Bulley’s -Lump, nor the cliffs very high, yet they encountered a furious wind, -as though blowing vertically. Toward the head of the fiord, they saw -numerous ducks and flocks of geese on shore, apparently overcome by -the force of the wind. Many of these they added to their abundant -stores. Here, too, they found Esquimaux relics, indicating the -abodes of men long years ago—circles of stones, very old; also -pieces of drift-wood, whence coming they marveled. Reaching the head -of the fiord, where the water became shallow, they landed, spread -their sleeping-bags on the rocks, and made amends for their -twenty-five hours’ want of sleep. - -Waking up, they found that the receding tide had left them high and -dry by one quarter of a mile. This rendered Lockwood very uneasy, -and induced him to give up his intended journey of half a dozen -miles into the interior. He went, however, a mile or so inland, and -from a height saw a lake, and several miles above it a glacier, -apparently very large. Vast cliffs, three thousand feet high, -bordered the valley or ravine he followed, and beyond these were -snow and ice clad summits of vast elevation. Yet here, in this -desolate region, were seen proofs of the abode of man—circles of -stones covered with lichens, a proof of their antiquity. Here, also, -he found the hip-bone of some immense mammal, and afterward added it -to his museum. He returned to the launch near the time of high tide, -and after lightening, they got the launch into deep water, with much -labor, but greatly to their relief. On their return they visited -Record Point, left a short account of their visit, and copied that -of Lieutenant Archer. He had explored this fiord in 1876, occupying -one month, but they did it in sixty-nine hours. He traveled with -sledges and a supporting party—they with a steam-launch, all being -on board. Their coal getting low, they made few other stops _en -route_ except to pick up their meat and game, returning direct to -the station. The result of the expedition, as to game, was, twelve -musk-oxen, three hares, twenty-four geese, thirty-six turn-stones, -six knots, three terns, and twenty ptarmigans. Distance made, going -and returning, one hundred and forty miles. Long and others killed -numbers of musk-oxen during their absence, so that they now had on -hand about eight thousand pounds of fresh beef. Another musk-ox was -killed, soon after their return, in full view of the house, and thus -four hundred and thirty pounds were added to their stock. This was -the eightieth musk-ox shot since their arrival, the year before. -They had a good view of the bay and straits, both of which seemed -open, offering no obstacle whatever to the passage of the ship. They -were all very much disappointed at her non-appearance. - -Lieutenant Greely, wanting Howgate’s Fiord explored and surveyed, -and Dr. Pavy wishing to make an excursion from Cape Baird, Lockwood, -on the 21st, left in the launch, with Rice, Cross, Lynn, Fredericks, -Snyder, and Israel, and with Dr. Pavy and Ellison as passengers, to -land the doctor on the south shore, and thence proceed westward to -Howgate’s Fiord. Following a lead westward, they finally found open -water, which enabled them to reach the south shore of the bay some -five miles above Cape Baird, where they landed the doctor and -Ellison, with their rations, etc. In crossing the open water, they -had strong south winds, and heavy seas which boarded the launch and -washed her from stem to stern. Though much strengthened against ice, -when heavily laden she sat too near the water to be a comfortable -sea-boat. Thence they proceeded to Miller Island, where they had -smooth water, and were enabled to cook their food and enjoy an -excellent meal. They found much ice in Howgate’s Fiord, yet, after -trying to kill a musk-ox seen on shore, made their way to Ida Bay, -at its head, and proceeded to the north shore, for Israel to lay out -his base-line and take angles, and Rice to take photographs of -prominent objects. While they were so doing, the others started in -pursuit of a musk-ox some distance from the shore. The animal, -seeing them, went up the valley at a rapid rate, leaving behind him -so strong a musk odor as to mark his wake as distinctly by the smell -as that of a steamboat is marked by the eye. Lockwood abandoned the -chase for other duties, but the men kept on, and afterward brought -in the animal’s carcass. These having returned, and Israel and Rice -having finished their work, all proceeded toward a very high, and -conspicuous promontory, marking the entrance to the bay, which -Lieutenant Greely wished Lockwood to ascend, and afterward go up the -northern arm of the fiord; but they were unable to do either, having -been brought to a full stop in the narrow channel by an immense floe -of old ice. They therefore returned out of this _cul-de-sac_ to the -south shore, where Israel wanted to take other angles. Here they -found traces of Esquimaux habitations—meat _caches_, and various -bone implements, all very old. Thence, _via_ Miller’s Cape, they -made their way to Stony Cape, not, however, without great difficulty -because of moving ice, which sometimes forced them too close to the -island, and compelled them to make _détours_. The weather -threatening, they did not stop to take other angles, but crossed to -the head of the bay, near the Bellows, and cast anchor; and, while -the others slept, Lockwood walked up the Bellows in quest of game, -but saw none. - -The vegetation was just sufficient to remind him of the glorious -trees and grasses of another zone far, far away. Still, with all its -desolation, Lockwood thought it a very picturesque region, and that -perhaps the moon, to one on its surface, presents a similar aspect. -They left for the station on the 25th, encountering much ice all the -way. Off Cape Clear it whirled about in such a manner as to threaten -to crush the launch. At one time a large piece of ice—larger than -the launch itself—was caught between the moving pack and the -grounded ice and thrown up into the air fifteen feet. Finally, they -reached the station, sadly disappointed not to see the masts of the -hoped-for ship. They could not divine the reason for her -non-appearance. Dr. Pavy thought that it never started, for want of -an appropriation. Lieutenant Greely thought otherwise. It looked -then as though they would have to retreat in boats during the next -summer, and might fail to meet the ship in the channel; or, on -reaching Littleton Island, find she had not been there, and then -undoubtedly all of them would perish. - -A fine salmon-trout of three pounds and three quarters was caught in -a net about this time, and, while Rice tried to obtain more, -Brainard went to Depot “B” on a hunt for musk-oxen and other game. - -On the 26th, Lockwood went across Lady Franklin Bay in the launch -after Dr. Pavy. Saw many seals, but failed to secure any. Found the -doctor and Ellison awaiting them, forlorn enough. They had reached -Carl Ritter Bay, seen musk-oxen, and discovered some lakes. Lockwood -left more stores over the bay, and returned through much ice. It was -pleasant to see how readily the launch cut through the young ice -then forming in the midst of falling snow. - -On the 28th, Lieutenant Greely, desiring some further exploration up -Ella Bay, and inland from its head, Lockwood and a select party made -several attempts in the launch to accomplish it; but the young ice -was forming so rapidly, there was so much pack-ice, and the snow was -obscuring the atmosphere so badly, that Lieutenant Greely, after -some hesitation, decided they had better not go, and, instead, -requested them to take the long-boat Valorous to Cape Baird and -leave her there, and then lay up the steam-launch for the winter. - -This they attempted to do, but, on reaching Dutch Island, had to -give it up, as the entire harbor, bay, and straits were full of -drifting ice, many of the floes standing five feet out of water. The -launch having been left at anchor near the island, the next morning -Lieutenant Greely ordered all hands down to the island to rescue her -from impending peril. They found her very much careened and half -full of water. She had been anchored in shoal water, and, heeling -over at ebb-tide, had filled at the next flood. Fortunately, no harm -was done to the boat, which might yet prove to be their salvation, -and should be got into safe winter quarters, as that season was -evidently already setting in. It was after this boat excitement that -Lockwood indulged in these reflections: “I find myself constantly -reading over old letters brought with me and received at St. John’s, -though read before again and again. The effect is depressing, -bringing too strongly into view home and the dear ones there. I am -oppressed with _ennui_ and low spirits, and can’t shake off this -feeling, partly induced by the cruel disappointment of _no ship_.” - -Subsequently he wrote, “Have been reading of Kane and his travels. -He is my _beau idéal_ of an Arctic traveler. How pitiful that so -bold a spirit was incased in so feeble a frame! Why is Nature -inconsistent? In the Arctic his health seems to have been fair. He -of all his advance party escaped the scurvy. It was his spirit, -doubtless, that kept him up. Hayes does not compare with him. Though -beautifully written, there is an air of exaggeration about Hayes’ -book, which destroys its interest. Doctor Pavy, who has hitherto -been the advocate of Hayes, since his return from Carl Ritter Bay -seems to have changed his mind about him, and now agrees with Greely -and me that Hayes never reached Cape Lieber. To have done so, he -must have performed in part of his journey ninety-six miles in -fourteen hours—an impossibility. - -“The life we are now leading is somewhat similar to that of a -prisoner in the Bastile: no amusements, no recreations, no event to -break the monotony or dispel _ennui_. I take a long walk every day -along shore to North Valley with that view, study French a little, -or do some tailoring, now doubly necessary, as our supply of -clothing is getting low. Our stock of reading matter, unfortunately, -is limited except in Arctic books. One must live up here within -himself, and is unfortunate if dependent on others for happiness. -The others are as moody as I am—Greely sometimes, Kislingbury -always, and as to the doctor, to say he is not congenial is to put -it in a very mild way indeed. But why not study? Well, the -atmosphere is not conducive to it. I must go on another -sledge-journey to dispel this gloom. Lieutenant Greely was thinking -of sending me to Lake Hazen to continue his explorations, but thinks -the snow too deep. I will make a trip to the Bellows, and follow up -the cañon at its head. - -“The hilarity in the other room is in marked contrast to the gloom -in this. For several days the skating on the young ice of the -harbor, now three inches thick, has afforded pleasure to the men. -Israel broke in some distance from shore, and, being unable to get -out by himself, would have perished but for the aid of others who -saw him after he had been in the cold water fifteen minutes. -Biederbick is constantly chaffed by the men for his persistent -gunning expeditions, from which he always returns empty-handed. He -takes everything seriously, and hence resents with warmth any -insinuations against Germany, particularly if his own little -principality of Waldeck be assailed. Biederbick tried to poison some -foxes, and boasted of his plans. A fox having been caught by some -one else and killed, Henry placed the body near Biederbick’s poison, -first placing within its mouth a paper stating (as though written by -the fox) how and where he met his death. Soon after Biederbick -inspected his poison, and finding the fox, brought him home in -triumph. Henry gravely declared the fox had not been poisoned, much -to Biederbick’s amazement. They proceeded to examine the fox, and -Henry pulled from its throat the certificate that had been placed -there. The men around laughed at Biederbick’s expense, and he -wilted.” - -The foregoing allusion to Dr. Kane can not but be read with special -interest, as it gives one an insight into the noble character of -Lockwood, who had the heart to appreciate a man like the discoverer -of Grinnell Land. Both, indeed, were men of rare and exalted -qualities, whose memories will always be treasured with respect and -affection by the whole American people. - -An effort was made under Lieutenant Kislingbury to raise, from -calves caught, a herd of tame musk-oxen. They became very docile and -tractable, even to the extent of hauling in teams. The chief -difficulty was to keep the dogs from them. One of these calves was -seriously wounded by them, and was therefore killed. It was rumored -that its meat would be served for dinner, and some of the men, to -carry out the joke, hung the quarters on the meat-rack near the -house. When other meat was served for dinner, Fredericks, who had -cared for the calf and named it John Henry, ate nothing—very proper -conduct for a man of feeling and a hater of jokes. - -Lockwood frequently went to the observatory with Israel to get some -insight into the workings of the magnetic instruments. On -“term-day,” the instruments were read every five minutes during the -twenty-four hours, and for one hour every twenty seconds. “Poets -write of the constancy of the magnetic needle,” said Lockwood, -“while in fact it is the most inconstant thing known. Not only does -it vary yearly, but monthly, daily, hourly, yea, every minute and -second. Here the magnetic disturbances are very pronounced, and at -times the magnetic needle is apparently almost beside itself. The -aurora, too, has frequently a very noticeable effect upon it.” - -It was now becoming a matter for discussion that, should they be so -unfortunate as to have to spend a third winter in this region, they -would have to live on salt meat and hard bread. Dr. Pavy said they -were already getting short of many articles of food, and of some -they were entirely out—short of sugar and also of candles and -foot-gear, of the latter, only a few pairs of cork-soled boots, -unfitted for use in these parts, remaining. Lockwood felt that he -would rather take any risks in boats than stay there another winter. - -The weather, which had been variable, having settled calm and clear, -Lockwood started on his proposed sledge trip up the “Bellows” with -Jewell, the Esquimaux Frederick, and an eight-dog team. Having young -ice most of the way and no load, they made rapid progress to the -tent at Basil Norris Bay. The dogs moved at a gallop, giving to all -the rare opportunity of a ride. Here they found sleeping-bags and -provisions. The next morning they reached Black Rock Vale and -followed the windings of its stream-bed until they came to Lake -Heintzelman, a beautiful body of water, or rather ice, perfectly -smooth and free from snow, filling the whole valley, some three -miles wide, to towering cliffs, and extending about five miles. So -smooth was the surface that the dogs could have pulled a ton. -Feeling rather chilly, they all held on to the upright of the sledge -behind, and were dragged along on the soles of their shoes. Reaching -the head of the lake, and finding the way so rough as to endanger -the sledge-runners, they deemed it best to go into camp and -reconnoitre before proceeding farther. While Lockwood and Jewell got -supper, Frederick went on a hunt for musk-oxen. The former afterward -followed with the team to bring in the game which he had killed, -first skinning and cutting it up, not an easy job, as they had only -a very dull hatchet and equally dull case-knives. They finally -succeeded, however, after much labor, and returned to camp at a late -hour. The ox killed was the only one seen, although it was -there—three miles above the lake—that a hundred had been formerly -seen. The following morning being chilly and the sky overcast, they -returned to the tent at Basil Norris Bay, the dogs carrying the men, -as well as nearly four hundred pounds of meat, over the smooth lake -at a rapid rate. - -While crossing they heard an unusual noise, like distant thunder, -which at first they were unable to account for, but finally -concluded was due to the cracking of the ice, arising probably from -changes of temperature. The whole expanse of ice was marked by -cracks extending in every direction, not, however, coming to the -surface, but visible below. - -In returning to the station, they avoided some rough places by -hugging the south shore of the harbor, a rumbling noise of moving -and crushing ice being heard in the direction of Dutch Island. On -reaching the station, they found that a large bear had visited the -house, dragging off the skeleton of a musk-ox which Dr. Pavy had -hung out to dry as a specimen. Tracks of another bear were afterward -seen near the house. At Lieutenant Greely’s request, Lockwood with -others followed these tracks, came in sight of the animal, and saw -him make his way toward the middle of the straits through leads of -open water and over hills of ice with seeming ease. Of course, they -failed to add bear-meat to their well-stocked larder. - -After enjoying a hot bath, which Lockwood commended as a grand -luxury, he penned the following from his corner in the -station-house: - -“The men have added a bagatelle-board to their other sources of -amusement, and sometimes have bagatelle tournaments. Lieutenant -Greely and I often play chess, and sometimes I take a game of -checkers with the Esquimaux. These, by-the-way, seem much better -reconciled than they were last winter. Probably have come to -understand us better, and we them. - -“Much of my time has been occupied in making maps of the several -launch trips and in writing out stenographic notes. Still, the -monotony here is dreadful, and tells on all. It certainly does on -me. Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury spend much of their time in -the other room, and, when in here and Lieutenant Greely absent, are -engaged in the most gloomy prognostications as to the future, and in -adverse criticisms on the conduct of the expedition. It is really -dreadful, and I sometimes think the life of an exile in Siberia -preferable to this. The absence of light without keeps us -within-doors, and the want of exercise and fresh air promotes -restlessness. Our supply of books comprises only novels and Arctic -literature. A few really solid books of history, biography, essays, -etc., are much to be desired, though, under the circumstances, I -suppose it would be difficult to concentrate one’s mind on them. - -“Our experiment with calves had to be given up. All died but one. -Long took that to Dutch Island, but it would not stay. Like the -human animal, the poor thing wanted sympathy and something to love, -and followed him all the way back, notwithstanding all he could do -to restrain it. Tame foxes and tame owls have also been given up. -The former bit their keepers, the latter ate each other up. The dogs -multiply rapidly, and would increase faster, but that the pups are -eaten by the old ones. I saw the mother of a dead pup keeping -Ritenbank from swallowing it, while she hesitated whether or not she -would do the same thing herself. - -“We are again building around our house with ice, which proved such -an addition last winter, and the double sashes to the windows have -been put in. I have added a side-board to my bunk and covered the -adjacent walls with paper, thus adding to the warmth. Much may be -done to mitigate the evils of this climate. The moral and social -evils are what we can not meet, or rather do not repel.” - -Mrs. Greely’s birthday was again observed, chiefly by a good dinner -with wine furnished by Lieutenant Greely. Lockwood’s own birthday -was also celebrated in like manner, when he recorded the following: -“After dinner Lieutenant Greely and I had a long talk—reminiscences -of army-life, speculations as to our retreat in boats, etc. When -alone, my mind turned to the dear ones at home and the many warm -friends I had elsewhere, and to the happy days spent with them. - -[Illustration: Lockwood’s Corner.] - -“My corner, which is the coldest of all the corners, was improved by -covering floor and walls with paper. I also found an improvement by -adding side-boards to the bunk, and finally by converting the bed -into a regular sleeping-bag. Before this was done, I sometimes -became very chilly during the night after the fires went down. Our -lamps now burn all day. How wearisome this constant artificial light -becomes, we know from the experience of last winter. I dread it -under our present social relations. Even Lieutenant Greely refers to -these as intensifying what would otherwise not much distress him. My -daily routine is somewhat as follows: Breakfast at half-past seven, -with scarcely a word spoken by any one. Then I smoke, standing by -the stove in the cook’s room. Afterward, tailoring or some other -work. At noon, a walk to Proteus Point if possible. Afterward, read -or sleep till dinner at four. Again smoke as before. Then a few -games of chess with Lieutenant Greely or checkers with the -Esquimaux. Then read a little French or a good deal of whatever I -find most interesting. Then to my army-bunk, to sleep till next -morning, when the same routine is repeated.” - -On the 20th, he made a trip to Depot “B” with some of the men and -two dog-sledges to bring down the musk-ox meat left there in -_cache_. They found the foot-ice near shore so rough that they had -to keep well out, but still they made the eighteen miles in six -hours, which may be regarded as fair traveling with dogs. - -They met many bear-tracks, but old, probably made by the same -animals that visited the station. They found that these animals, and -also foxes, had found their meat-_cache_ and had done much damage, -four quarters of meat and fifteen geese having been eaten by them or -taken away. Returning next day with what remained, and taking in -more meat at St. Patrick’s Bay in still worse condition, they made -their way home over a sea of rubble-ice. To show the effects of -ice-movements, Lockwood observed, when crossing Watercourse Bay on -their return, the sledge-tracks made the day before fifty feet in -the air on top of floe-bergs! - -They made a visit to some floe-bergs at the mouth of Lady Franklin -Bay to get specimens of colored ice seen there on a berg. These were -mostly yellow, but some specimens almost black. On melting, they -gave an offensive odor, and made deposits of their color. Analysis -only could determine the nature of the coloring-matter. Young ice -was measured, and found to be twenty inches thick. - -Lockwood would have been glad enough to be away from that cold -region, and yet he seemed determined again to explore the north -Greenland coast, and thought that, under favorable circumstances, he -could go farther than he had already gone by at least seventy-five -miles, thereby manifesting a degree of pluck almost unique in its -character. Difficulties might arise to defeat his plans, but, these -surmounted, all his energies and hopes would be directed to -returning home. It was Lieutenant Greely’s opinion, however, that -his “farthest” would not be again reached in the present century. - -On the 5th of November Dr. Pavy returned from an expedition to Carl -Ritter Bay, which he had reached by following the valley back of -Cape Lieber, as the ice-foot was found impracticable. The dog-food, -or dried fish, taken, being insufficient and poor, one of the dogs -died, and was immediately eaten by the others. The straits below -were found quite open. They killed one musk-ox, but could not bring -in the meat. On the return, so rough was the ice over the bay that -twelve hours were required to cross from Cape Baird. - -The doctor urged the policy of storing provisions at Cape Hawkes for -their boat-journey, a thing easier to talk about than to do, as Cape -Hawkes was one hundred and fifty-five miles, in a straight line, -south of Lady Franklin Bay, and it would occupy a dog-sledge to go -and return at least one month. If anything was to be done in that -direction, all thoughts of further exploration must be abandoned. -The doctor predicted that a naval expedition would be sent for them -the next year, Congress having hitherto failed to provide for their -relief. - -In one of his tramps to Proteus Point, Lockwood’s feet were again -frosted, owing partly to his imperfect foot-gear, and he then became -convinced that a light, flexible moccasin was the best thing to wear -in that country. - -For several days about the middle of November, there were magnetic -disturbances of a pronounced character coincident with the storms -and auroras they were experiencing. Storms were always indicated by -rapid changes of barometer, but sometimes the barometer fell and no -storm followed. Auroras had recently been attended with varied -colors, which was unusual, as they had formerly been uniformly -white. A surveyor working there would find, at times, his -compass-needle almost unmanageable. Seals were seen in the most -unexpected places, one of them having been killed with a hatchet in -a tide-hole. - -On the 21st, Lockwood was startled, when setting out on his usual -walk, to see what looked like smoke coming from the roof of the -house; but what he mistook for smoke was only the condensation of -vapor escaping from the house. The appearance of the smoke coming -from the chimney, and of the steam from the roof, projected as they -were on the sides of the snow-covered mountains, was very pretty. -The ice-wall around the house was a great protection, not only -keeping the hot air in, but protecting the house from the furious -blasts which would otherwise enter it, if, indeed, they did not -destroy it. - -Lieutenant Greely resumed his lectures, which had before proved so -interesting. He gave one, which they all admired, on the history of -his native town, Newburyport. Israel had also assumed the _rôle_ of -lecturer on astronomy, with which he was familiar. - -When Lockwood became desperate with _ennui_, he got out his old -letters and again read them, as they carried him back to his distant -home and parents and sisters. He earnestly prayed that a kind -Providence would restore him to them. This was the end of all his -hopes. - -On the 30th of November Lockwood wrote as follows: “This is the day -Lieutenant Greely appointed for thanksgiving, and thankfully should -we keep it; for we have not only escaped sickness and any serious -discomforts, but we have had undoubted success in our efforts both -scientific and geographical. We have had a royal feast of soup, -beef, corn, Lima beans, pineapple-jelly, nuts, and figs.” - -Contrary to his resolve, a few days later he commenced reading -novels. His feeling was that they withdraw one from one’s self, -which is something gained; but they put one up in the clouds from -which it is often painful to descend. They cause the reader to live -for a time in an ideal world, and bring him back to the stern -reality with a sense of disappointment. - -On the 8th of December, Lockwood was greatly impressed by the -absence of light, and gave his views as follows: “It is now very -dark, even at noon, except when we have the moon and a clear sky. -Even on the floe, where the pure white snow reflects every bit of -light, it is now so obscure that it is difficult to see the path at -one’s feet; and even the outlines of the mountains, high above the -horizon, are very dim. A faint gleam of twilight over the south -horizon, at noon only, shows the direction in which the sun and -‘God’s country’ lie. So dark is it that I have several times -stumbled over the dogs lying outside at the door; and when in a -pathway, one has rather to feel the way than see it, requiring the -use of a lantern in going from the house. - -“No wonder, then, that the moon is so highly appreciated in this -benighted region. How delightful it is, after a fortnight’s absence, -to have her with us once again! How a poet would rave over the moon -could he once know a polar winter! We have her now in all her glory, -lighting up this vast desert waste, which, covered with its mantle -of snow and ice, now becomes a thing of beauty. - -“The effect of continued absence of sunlight is very marked in the -complexion of all the men, as well as in their loss of vigor. They -are as blanched as potato-sprouts in a dark cellar. Blessed orb of -light and life! One can hardly imagine the one without the other. -The moral as well as the physical influence of sunlight is very soon -seen after the sun’s reappearance, the middle of February.” - -They still kept up birthdays, and the 24th was that of Saler, when -they had a feast selected by himself. The musk-ox beef was -particularly good, being young and tender, and free from the musk -flavor so common with old oxen. They were now used to this, however, -and it did not trouble them. - -In the evening Lieutenant Greely brought out a few Christmas -presents to distribute, which had not been issued the previous year, -and there were some prizes of tobacco, soap, etc., raffled for. A -chromo-picture of good “King Billy” of Prussia was given to Long, -whose hair is somewhat red. The hair in the picture being of the -same color, much mirth was elicited, as Long was sensitive about his -hair, and was constantly chaffed by the men on that account. -Lieutenant Greely made a few appropriate remarks, referring to the -success of the expedition, and praying that their good fortune might -continue, etc. - -The Christmas-dinner was remarkably good—one that might have been -enjoyed anywhere. The appetites of the men and of the officers were -equal to the occasion. Of late some of them had shown less appetite -than formerly, possibly because their supplies showing signs of -failing in a few particulars, the table had shown less variety. The -average weight of the men was found to be one hundred and -seventy-one pounds, Lockwood’s weight being one hundred and -seventy-six, embodying a good deal of caloric. - -On the 8th of January, 1883, after repairing some damage done to the -launch by the ice, Lieutenant Greely announced his resolve to leave -for home in boats not later than August 8th, and sooner, if the ice -permitted. - -On the 23d, efforts were made to cross the bay to Cape Baird, but -without success, the difficulties being the absence of light, the -intense cold, and the extremely rough ice. It was desired to open a -passage to Cape Baird, and make a depot of provisions there for use -on the retreat. Their first efforts carried these stores only to -mid-channel, but afterward Sergeant Lynn and others carried them -over to Cape Baird. - -Much of Lockwood’s time was of necessity occupied in tailoring, and -he had become quite an expert. Service in the north not only -demanded much clothing, but the garments must be strong and warm. -Their supply in store being somewhat limited and not judiciously -chosen, particularly in foot- and hand-gear, all were from time to -time engaged in repairing old garments or making new. Rice suggested -a method of doubling the supply of woolen socks by cutting off the -legs of long stockings and sewing up the bottoms of the leg part. -For his proposed spring trip, Lockwood was counting upon a rig -consisting of two merino shirts, three flannel shirts, one chamois -vest, one vest made of two thicknesses of army-blanket, one woolen -Jersey, one swan-skin cloth over-shirt, one pair of merino drawers, -two pairs of flannel drawers, soldier’s trousers, cloth cap covering -head and neck with a skirt covering the shoulders, and a pair of -moccasins over heavy woolen socks—all to be worn at once, though -seemingly heavy enough to weigh down an elephant. The only clothing -in reserve was woolen wrappers and socks for the feet, and a -seal-skin “timiak” for exceptionally cold weather. Having suffered -much from cold feet, Lockwood had paid special attention to -foot-gear, but without great success. Frequently he was kept awake -most of the night from this cause. He noticed that the dogs suffered -more in their feet than elsewhere, and might be seen at any time -standing around with their feet drawn up under their bodies. The -feet and the nose seemed to be the only highly sensitive parts of -the Esquimaux dog, these being, indeed, the only parts not covered -with long wool. Lockwood never tired of watching these animals. They -were susceptible to kindness, though generally getting little of it. -They followed him on his lonely walks, and seemed grateful for any -notice or attention on his part. The young pups soon became docile -and tractable in harness, though a little more difficult to manage -than old dogs. - -When the 1st of March arrived, all hands were engaged in preparing -for their spring work. First in order was the supply of their depot -on the eastern side, and Lockwood purposed leaving soon, to convey -several hundred pounds of rations to that place. As usual in such -cases, Dr. Pavy and two others of the party indulged themselves in -the most gloomy prognostications as to the future, declaring that -all idea of further explorations should be abandoned, and all their -efforts applied to depositing provisions down the straits to secure -their safe retreat in boats in August and September. Both -Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood did all they could to make a success -of this expedition, but the social atmosphere was not congenial, and -there was little enthusiasm manifested. How different would have -been this life if all had pulled together! Lockwood was impatient to -be away from this trouble and at work. If he could not go farther -than on his previous trip, he could at least try, and no man could -do more than his best. - -On the 10th of March, Lockwood left with two sledge-teams of ten -dogs each for the purpose of placing supplies on the Greenland side -of the straits—he, Sergeant Brainard, and Esquimaux Frederick, with -one sledge; Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Ellison, and Jans, with the -other. After leaving Depot A, where they added to their load, they -had on each sledge about nine hundred and thirty pounds, or nearly -one hundred pounds per dog. Found much rubble-ice on St. Patrick’s -Bay, but, generally, the route to Depot B was good, and the journey -was made in eight hours from the station. Although they had a fire -in the little stove of the depot tent, all passed an uncomfortable -night, not only from cold, but from their cramped and crowded -condition. Their feet were higher than their heads, and the head in -one instance was under the edge of the damp, frost-covered canvas. -“Woolly” was found to be lame, and had to be left in a hole in the -snow-bank, with a supply of hard bread; Ellison was feeling badly, -yet said, “All right,” and insisted on proceeding. Seeing no -favorable passage from Cape Beechy, they concluded to go up to -Wrangell Bay and try the passage direct from there to Cape Brevoort. -To reach Wrangell, they had to leave the ice-foot and move out on -the straits, and soon found themselves in an awful mass of -rubble-ice like a vast plain covered with bowlders. A great deal of -chopping had to be done with the axe, and what progress they made, -was with half-loads. They encamped on the straits, and, while the -others returned for the discarded loads, Lockwood prepared supper, -succeeding only in making some ice into lukewarm tea, which, with -cold bread and meat, they hastily swallowed before creeping into -their sleeping-bags. They secured but little sleep, as may be -imagined when it is known that the thermometer registered that night --48°. Under such circumstances, they seemed never completely -unconscious, and got up in the morning under the belief that they -had not slept at all. - -Reaching the south cape of Wrangell Bay, they turned to the right -and went directly toward Cape Brevoort, still meeting with ice of -the most formidable kind, over which the heavily loaded sledges had -frequently to be lifted. Tired out, they camped at 5 P. M. in the -midst of the strait. The first thing to be done was to look out for -the foot-gear. This always had a lining of frost inside as well as -out, being wet from perspiration if not from leakage. Brainard -always changed his stockings for dry ones when he could do so, but -Lockwood and Frederick generally let theirs go, the latter from -indifference to frost-bites, and the former to escape the pain -arising from tender feet and fingers. By incasing his feet in dog- -or sheep-skin wrappings, he managed to pass the night comfortably. - -Ellison, being really sick, was sent back to the depot to the tender -care of Woolly. After moving for a time over rubble, several of the -pieces of which came up to a man’s shoulders, they were greatly -encouraged by coming to a grand paleocrystic floe, whose gently -undulating surface stretched east, north, and south as far as the -eye could reach. This floe reminded Lockwood of a Western prairie, -its mounds and gullies making the resemblance more complete. As an -offset to this smooth way, they had to face an icy north wind with -the thermometer from -35° to -48°. Frederick got one cheek and a -finger frost-bitten, Brainard his face, and Lockwood his nose. Here -they put off the load, and at a run with the empty sledge returned -to their former encampment, where the tent was left standing, to -await the return of Jewell, who had gone back to Depot B to leave -Ellison with Woolly. - -The next morning, packing everything on the two sledges, they soon -gained the smooth floe seen the day before, whence, detaching Jewell -for some stores at Lincoln Bay, which he was to leave at this point -and then return to Fort Conger, Lockwood, Frederick, and Brainard -proceeded across the floe with as much of the total loads as the -dogs of their sledge could drag. Coming within five miles of Cape -Brevoort, and seeing formidable ice in that direction, while toward -Newman Bay the ice was better, Lockwood concluded to head toward -that bay. They did so until 5 P. M., and then camped on the straits, -completely exhausted. During the night they had a violent south -wind, but they had campaigned too much not to be prepared for this -with tent-pins securely driven. - -In the morning they made their way over pretty good floes with some -rubble, and reached at noon the whale-boat at Polaris Point, finding -the rations in her intact. Thence, following the snow slope along -the cliffs, and passing the point where Lockwood and Frederick had -spent many hours the year before in a snow-hole, they passed round -Cape Sumner through masses of ice in some places piled fifty feet -high, and finally reached the Boat Camp on Newman Bay. - -Having thus provisioned the Boat Camp, they took a survey of the -routes back, and concluding that, all things considered, the one -direct to Cape Beechy was the best, returned by it with the empty -sledge, making rapid progress and reaching the west shore in just -seven hours. Notwithstanding they had no load, the passage was by no -means easy, for they had to pass over mountain-ridges, deep pits, -and gullies in the rubble-ice, where the dogs could scarcely keep -their footing. Lockwood was impressed, as often before, with the -power and endurance of the dogs. Ellison had left the depot, but -Woolly still remained, and there, also, they found Jewell, who had -been up to Lincoln Bay, where he found that the foxes had eaten up a -large part of the meat in _cache_ there. - -With Woolly on the sledge, they returned to the station, meeting -Snyder and Whistler _en route_ with a pup-team and sledge, going for -Woolly. It was interesting and touching to witness the -demonstrations and delight of these youngsters on meeting their -elders, among which were the mothers of some of them. - -Jewell said that, on his return to the depot, he put away his -dog-harness in one of the empty tents, and that when he awoke the -next morning he found nothing remaining but the bone buttons and the -whip-handles, the dogs having eaten everything else. Another -dog-story is recorded as follows: - -“Milatook had pups the other day, and all were killed except one. It -was discovered yesterday in a very unfortunate condition, with tail -frozen hard and stiff, and legs in nearly the same condition. Some -of the men soaked the tail in water, and eventually ‘brought it to.’ -It is a sad tail.” - - - - - XIV. - RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. - - -On the 19th of March, fair weather came out of the north, and not -only cheered the hearts of the whole colony at the station, but -fired the desire of Lieutenant Lockwood for the new campaign, which -he had long been contemplating. After a consultation with Lieutenant -Greely, he concluded to start on the following day, or soon after. -As usual, some cold water was thrown upon his plans, one of the -critics declaring that they had experienced enough of that kind of -business; and another, that they had better be thinking of their -coming fate. But Lockwood’s reasoning was as follows: “Before I go -home, I must make another ‘strike’ on the north Greenland coast. If -the conditions of the ice are no worse, I ought to be able to -discover the northeast extremity of Greenland, and add several miles -to my latitude, although Lieutenant Greely thinks that my present -‘farthest’ will not again be reached in our day. I say nothing about -all this, however. _Act_ first and talk afterward has always been my -way.” - -Lockwood was both hopeful and determined, and on the 23d he received -his final orders to the effect, that, should he not be able to reach -a higher latitude than he did before without undue danger, or should -he or any of his men break down or become dangerously ill, he was to -return forthwith. To this he replied that he knew not what might -happen, but he intended, if possible, to reach the eighty-fourth -parallel. In anticipation of his own birthday, and to honor the -explorers with a good “send-off,” Lieutenant Greely gave a dinner on -the 26th, and, thus fortified, they were prepared to move on the -following day, rejoicing. - -Lockwood had two fine teams of ten dogs each assigned for his use, -and, as before, the faithful Brainard and Esquimaux Frederick were -to accompany him. Everything passed off quietly, without the -excitement or enthusiasm of the previous spring. They left the -station at 8.30 A. M., the advance sledge bearing the silk flag of -Mrs. Greely, with Brainard and Frederick the Esquimaux; the -supporting sledge with Jewell, Ellis, and Esquimaux Jans; and then -the pup-team and sledge driven by Snyder, and carrying Greely and -Lockwood. On reaching Watercourse Bay, whence they were to take back -a load of coal, Lieutenant Greely and team left them, after bidding -God-speed, and telling them to be sure and bring back the north end -of Greenland! Reaching Depot A in two and a quarter hours, they took -on two small seals left there, and passing Depot B, where they -obtained more provisions, they reached Cape Beechy at 4 P. M.—the -dogs quite fresh, but the men much wearied. - -When they resumed their journey, it was snowing and the Greenland -shore invisible. They took a direct course by compass for Cape -Sumner over rubble-ice until they reached the first floe, on whose -hard, undulating surface they made rapid progress until they came to -rubble-ice again. Brainard, with axe in hand, went ahead, clearing -the way over impassable places, until the high cliff of Polaris -Promontory came in sight. Finally, both Jewell and Ellis suffering -from pain, when three miles from Cape Sumner they stopped for the -night, after making twenty miles, and all went into bags. - -Moving early next morning with considerable wind, they got into bad -ice with cracks, down which some of the dogs fell and had to be -drawn up; but finally, finding a better route, reached the Polaris -Boat Camp, where, leaving some meat for the dogs when returning, -they continued on toward Gap Valley, generally over rolling floes, -and through rubble, requiring a good deal of cutting, tugging, and -pushing. - -When three miles out they went into camp again, leaving Ellis to -prepare supper for all, while the others, with both sledges, -returned to the Boat Camp. - -Leaving Brainard to get ready the alcohol to be taken from the -whale-boat, they kept on along shore to the foot of the cliffs and -the _cache_. Here they found the snow-slopes much worse than on -their last visit, but, the sledges being empty, they could have gone -along over anything except a stone wall, and even that would have -had to be very high to stop them. Fox-tracks were seen near the -_cache_, but they found it intact. The ice they had piled about it -was almost covered by the drifting snow. The contents of the -_cache_, about one thousand pounds in all, were put on the two -sledges, and soon after they went down a snow-bank so steep and hard -that the sledges took entire command, though all hands tried to hold -them back; but the dogs keeping out of the way, no harm was done. -This was at Cape Sumner, whence they returned to the Boat Camp. -Here, taking on the things prepared by Brainard, they returned to -the tents. After supper some hours were spent in getting ready the -rations for from twenty to forty-eight days. Jewell and Ellis were -both complaining; otherwise, every thing looked very promising. - -On the morning of the 30th, it was clear overhead but cloudy around -the horizon, and a slight snow was falling. The loads were about -eleven hundred pounds to each team, but the dogs did admirably, and -good speed was made, the ice being covered with a very light depth -of snow. At the mouth of the gorge by which they were to ascend and -cross the Brevoort Peninsula, they reduced the load on each sledge -and started up this narrow, rocky, winding cañon. The snow was hard -and they were getting along well, when right before them appeared a -wall of snow, so steep and hard that Lockwood had to use his big -knife, to ascend. It was about thirty feet high. He went alone to -view the situation. A few yards beyond was a kind of ice tunnel -whose roof was about three feet high. Then came another high, steep -snow-drift with a snow-cavern alongside, probably fifty yards in -length; and also a few feet farther was found a deep pit formed by -the snow. Climbing around this and proceeding half a mile, he found -that the gorge made a bend to the east and became still more narrow -and rocky; but a side ravine offered a chance to get out of this big -gutter, up a long, steep slope of hard snow, three or four times the -height of the preceding drifts; and then Lockwood found himself on -the table-land overlooking Newman Bay. - -The sledges with great difficulty gained this comparatively level -divide. The landmarks not being altogether familiar to Lockwood, he -took a long walk after supper to a distant ridge, where, seeing the -sea-coast, his way became perfectly clear. It was a lonely and -dismal walk, and the ridge seemed to get farther away as he -approached it. After more than two hours’ absence he returned to the -tents, crawled in alongside of Sergeant Brainard, and was quickly -lulled to sleep notwithstanding the snoring of Frederick. The horrid -sound issuing from his bag was as loud as a brass band at a circus. - -The process of getting breakfast was to be preferred to that of -getting supper. When a man went into camp, after a toilsome day of -travel, and had helped to pitch tent and unload the sledge, it was -hard, while covered with frost, with cold and perhaps wet feet, to -chop ice and meat, and handle cold metal. - -After an uncomfortable night, with the temperature down to -45°, -they started again. Proceeding several miles, they reached a narrow, -winding ravine, and finally a gorge, which they followed until they -came to the head of the wide Gap Valley, and thence to the -sea-coast. Turning east, they continued on a few hundred yards, and -were then stopped by the ice-wall, which crowded so closely to the -shore that the sledges could not be hauled through. Lockwood and -Frederick pitched the tent, while Brainard went ahead with the axe, -and, after much hard work, made a passage about one eighth of a mile -long through this place. They managed to worry through with half the -load by three o’clock, and, leaving Brainard to get supper, Lockwood -and Frederick went on with half the load for about one and a half -miles. The route beyond the bad place was excellent. Dropping the -load, they returned to the tent by four o’clock. Jewell came along -later, he and Ellis complaining again of their difficulty in keeping -up with the sledge when it went faster than a slow walk. - -While approaching the cairn at Repulse Harbor, on the 1st of April, -Brainard’s sharp eyes discovered the site of the English depot of -rations, which contained Lieutenant Beaumont’s sextant, an English -flag, a cooking-lamp, old clothes, and some foot-gear. The road -before them was excellent, and they made good time, soon passing the -route of the preceding year, which reached the coast just east of -Repulse Harbor. - -On coming near Drift Point, they were better able to see the -northern expanse outside the ice-wall which lined the coast and had -interrupted the view. Lockwood saw a good deal of young ice -interspersed with holes, and leads of open water. The main pack -beyond seemed permeated by leads of what had been quite recently -open water. Dark, misty “water-clouds” were seen everywhere -northward. The young ice extended along shore in both directions as -far as they could see, and out from shore a hundred yards or more. -Beyond it was the polar pack, broken into small floes and -rubble-ice, which had a glistening green appearance, as though -recently pushed up by the grinding of the fields about it; all this -was very surprising. - -They made their way over the snow-slopes of Drift Point and beyond -until the near approach of the cliffs on one side and the ice-wall -on the other brought them to a halt eighty miles from Fort Conger. -Here they encamped with everything, having come thus far in six -days. - -The ice-wall along here was from forty to fifty feet high. Outside, -there was a good deal of ice lately formed, with smooth floes. They -passed on near the foot of the bluffs, to see if there was any way -of getting along the cliffs, making their way between the ice-wall -and the foot of the steep slopes of the bluffs with great effort. -The _débris_ of stone, etc., from the cliffs above made the route -almost impracticable for a sledge. Before reaching Black Horn -Cliffs, they were obliged to find a route along the top of the -ice-wall, and thus got a short distance along the bottom of these -vertical cliffs. But now, from a fissure in the cliffs above, came a -steep drift of very hard snow, slanting down to the water at its -foot. To scale the cliffs by means of this drift was dangerous, as a -slip would inevitably have taken one directly into the water. - -By cutting steps in the snow they gained a considerable elevation, -but, on looking round a point of rocks, the height beyond was so -much greater and worse than they expected, that they could not -proceed. All along shore was the crack of open water about a yard -wide, with young ice beyond, through which a stone or fragment of -ice might be thrown. Dense water-clouds appeared in many directions. -They returned to camp, and, after enjoying some tea, Lockwood gave -Jewell the tidal rod to make observations, while with Brainard he -started out again, this time to the south and up a stream-bed, at -whose mouth they were encamped, hoping to find a route back of the -cliffs overland. They soon found themselves in a ravine with high, -rocky sides, and encountered a steep snow-drift. Beyond was a small -hole in the snow, which seemed to be a cavern or grotto formed of -snow and ice, and probably running down to the bed of the stream—if -that may be called a stream which has no water. Beyond this were -exposed rocks under foot, and they saw ptarmigan-tracks, where the -birds had used their wings in getting down a snow-drift. Finally, -they came to a branch ravine from the southeast, the main stream -leading off toward the south. They turned up the branch, and kept on -for a while, when the high rocky sides seemed to come to a formation -of ice like a glacier, a hundred feet high, at least, and very -steep. The crest was perpendicular. The route thus far was difficult -yet practicable, but it was clearly impossible for a dog-team to -haul an _empty_ sledge up this place, and yet it was the only place -where there was anything else than an inclined plane of rocks. The -glacier was covered with snow, but in many places the ice could be -seen cropping out, the snow being only a thin covering. Some -ice-grottoes were also seen. They clambered up the rocks to the -left, and found themselves on a stony plateau. Off to the east was -an elevated ridge or knoll, toward which they traveled about a mile -and a half. On gaining it, the barometer showed an elevation of -thirteen hundred feet. Toward the south was a chain of mountains -running east and west, through the western extremity of which the -main stream-bed they had ascended seemed to break, about six miles -from the sea. The branch appeared to end at the glacier; but to the -east of it the land sloped north and south, and formed a -surface-drain which, running east, soon narrowed into a gorge, and, -bending to the north, reached the sea just west of Rest Gorge, as -well as they could make out. At the bend was a large formation of -ice or snow. - -They returned to camp at 3 P. M., and found every one there walking -vigorously up and down to keep warm, or, rather, to keep from -freezing, the thermometer marking -48°. Jewell left his beat every -few minutes to note the height of the water on the tide-rod. There -was now nothing else to do except to get into the sleeping-bags, and -this in cold weather always involves a change of foot-gear. At six -o’clock Brainard had prepared supper, and shortly after, the advance -sledge-party was trying to sleep. Jewell kept on taking observations -until after eleven, when he caught the high tide. It was a severe -ordeal, but he preferred to do it, without assistance, as it was -much better for the record. - -Brainard complained of want of sleep, and Lockwood’s rest was much -the same as usual—an uneasy, oppressed feeling of being half asleep -and half awake; every few hours getting broad awake, and wondering -if it were time to rise, or how much colder his feet would have to -get before freezing. Having decided to examine the main ravine -running south, Lockwood started from camp before eight, with -Brainard, Frederick, and Ellis. On reaching the branch, he and Ellis -continued south, and the other two went up the branch. Continuing -along between the high, rocky sides of the ravine, with abundance of -hard snow under foot, but some bad snow-drifts, they found a very -good sledge-route. After a while, they came to a huge formation of -snow, filling the whole breadth of the ravine, and sloping up—in one -place by a very easy ascent—to the west bank. Gaining this, they -continued on and reached a ridge some twelve hundred feet high, -which commanded a view of the sea, and of the valley to the south as -far as the mountains. The valley seemed to grow wider and deeper as -far as the mountains, through which it broke from a southwest -direction. No break or defile of any kind offered an outlet to the -east. Beyond the east bank was a wide plateau covered with stones, -and about four miles from the sea. After taking a good survey of the -country, they turned back toward the camp. Brainard and Frederick -joined them some time afterward, and reported that they had cut one -hundred and fifty-two steps in the side of the glacier to get up, -and found that the branch extended a short distance beyond, but that -a vertical ledge of ice some twelve feet high presented itself -afterward, and that, on getting beyond this, they found themselves -on a plateau covered with bare stones. Brainard thought the route -utterly impracticable, and went no farther. He afterward said that -they might be able to get round to Rest Gorge in two weeks, with the -sledges and loads, by taking the sledges to pieces, and carrying -them and the loads piecemeal over these obstructions. The young ice -seemed to be getting thicker, and they began to think they might get -around the cliffs after all. They had some tea and “pap,” and began -to calculate how many days it would take to reach Cape Bryant. -During the afternoon, a way for the sledge was cut through a low -place in the ice-wall, a short distance west of the camp, and two -days’ rations were also deposited in a _cache_ on the hill. A slight -wind blew during the day, and by eight o’clock all were in their -sleeping-bags again, excepting Jewell, who kept up tidal -observations until ten, securing a very satisfactory set, two high -tides and the intervening low tide. - -Thermometer during the night -43°. After breakfast, Brainard went -down to the tide-gauge, and, coming back, reported that the rising -tide had widened the crack a little, but that he had fixed it by -chopping snow blocks and throwing them into the water. Being -unwilling to risk everything on the young ice, thinking that it -might break through, Lockwood put the five sacks of pemmican on the -sledge, and leaving the tent, etc., and the supporting sledge-party -packing up, he, Brainard, and Frederick started on. They reached the -ice with no trouble, and, proceeding out from shore one or two -hundred yards, turned to the east and went a short distance when, -Frederick seeming to think the ice all right, Lockwood sent Brainard -ahead with the axe, while with Frederick, having thrown off the -load, he proceeded back for the rest of the stores, so as to take -all on together. They had nearly reached the shore, when suddenly -Lockwood saw two or three of the dogs in the water, and knew from -Frederick’s tones that something had happened. The ice was moving -out from shore, and they saw no way of getting off. Lockwood called -for Jewell, and then leaving Frederick and his team to find a way to -shore if possible, started on the run to get within hailing distance -of Brainard. He was speedily overtaken by Frederick and the -dog-team, the dogs going at a fast gallop, and Frederick laying his -whip about them in all directions. Lockwood proceeded to find some -place to get ashore, but there was none, except at a little -promontory of rubble-ice, in front of the camp, and about two -hundred yards from the tide-gauge. Elsewhere up and down, as far as -they could see, was a continuous belt of water, every moment getting -wider. The ice had a motion toward the east, as well as out from the -shore, and thus kept in position a small cake of ice by means of -which Lockwood got on the promontory, and then directed the -movements of the dog-sledge which now came along. On the way back -they stopped and threw the pemmican on the sledge again, the ice -being perfectly smooth and hard. They first saved the dogs, pulling -them up one by one, and then, the little ice-cake seeming to keep -its position, a bridge was made of the sledge, and all the pemmican -saved. The ice continued to move out from the shore, until up and -down as far as the eye could reach was a wide belt of open water. -Before they left, it was in many places between one and two hundred -yards wide, and the ice at the same time moving toward the east. -They got ashore at eleven o’clock, and by 12.30 the sledge-tracks, -which had been opposite the tidal rod, were opposite the camp, a -distance of two hundred yards. While the sledges were being packed, -a seal made his appearance and eyed the party curiously. The guns -were not convenient, and he was not disturbed. Many water-clouds -were seen to the north at this time, and the whole polar pack seemed -to be on the move. They were all grateful for getting out of the -trap so well. Referring to their living on the moving floe, -Frederick made signs to suggest their eating the dog-pemmican; -certainly this would have lasted a long time had they not frozen to -death in the mean while, which they would have done very soon, as -they were without sleeping-bags or alcohol. - -There seemed nothing to do but turn about and go home, and yet -Lockwood was extremely averse to the idea. The overland route looked -well-nigh impossible, or something at least that could not be -accomplished in time to allow them to reach the farthest of 1882. -Lockwood’s orders directed his return in case this contingency -should arise, as well as in case of any “signs of the disintegration -of the polar pack,” or in case he became incapacitated for rapid -travel. He walked up and down and thought of it for some time, both -Brainard and Jewell having declared that there was nothing else to -do but return. At 12.30, the teams being all ready, they turned -toward the west. As they came near the slopes of Drift Point a very -disagreeable south wind with drifting snow was met, which continuing -to get worse, their cheeks and noses began to suffer, and therefore, -at about two o’clock, they halted and pitched the tents, driving the -pins first, and raising the tents afterward. By this time it was -blowing almost a gale, and, the thermometer being very low, the tent -was tied up, and they prepared to weather it out, Lockwood having a -severe headache, which added to his tribulations. - -The whole of April 5th was passed in the sleeping-bags, giving all -hands an opportunity to meditate on the _delights_ of an Arctic -sledge-journey. The time was spent in sleep, or in trying to keep -warm and sleep at the same time. During the day Lockwood counted up -the exact number of rations remaining, and, still bent on his dream -of the eighty-fourth degree, calculated that, if they could get -around overland to Rest Gorge in five days, they could yet go to the -farthest of 1882 and a few days beyond, provided the traveling was -not worse than the previous year. He announced his intention -accordingly. Brainard and Jewell were not hopeful, but willing to do -their best in attempting it. One great obstacle was the lame and -crippled condition of both Jewell and Ellis. The signs of -disintegration in the polar pack, Lockwood proposed to disregard. - -The wind continuing to blow, it was noon before they started off -toward the east to reconnoitre; but, prior to this, Lockwood went up -on the high ground back of the tents and saw a great deal of open -water. Some time after starting, he stopped the sledges and went up -on another elevation to reconnoitre, feeling that, if he went on and -anything happened, his responsibility would be heavy, from his -disobedience of orders. From this point could be seen a belt of open -water running along shore, in both directions, for miles. In no -place was it less than two hundred yards wide, and from that it -increased to four and five hundred. Westward from the vicinity of -Repulse Harbor, it extended in a lead, growing wider and wider, all -the way across the straits, apparently to the vicinity of Lincoln -Bay, where it seemed to swing round to the north. This lead was -upward of five miles wide in the middle. Whether there were other -leads south of it, between Newman Bay and Beechy, could not be -determined. In the polar pack to the north were several small leads -and a great many dark water-clouds. The ice was again noticed moving -rapidly to the northeast. Beyond Cape Bryant, he supposed the ice to -be intact, as in 1882, but around the cape, north of Britannia, they -had then traveled on new ice, and, going out on the polar pack at -Cape Dodge, just this side of the farthest, had traveled on it for -several miles. The condition of this route now could not be known, -of course, but what they had seen made the prospect very -unfavorable. The signs of disintegration were unmistakable, and -Lockwood therefore determined to turn back once again. Near this -spot he remarked a very curious stratified floeberg. It was about -forty feet high, and a dozen or more horizontal lines were very -plain. The weather had now cleared up beautifully, and they were -soon at Repulse Harbor. Here they left a short notice of their -defeat in an English cairn, and, taking Beaumont’s sextant, the -English flag, etc., on the sledge, continued on their way to the -mouth of Gap Valley, where they went into camp, and remained long -enough to take a set of tidal observations. - -The observations here were very satisfactory, and were kept up by -Jewell for more than twelve hours. Brainard, with Ellis and the two -teams and drivers, advanced the heaviest part of the loads _en -route_ nine miles to the shore of Newman Bay. Lockwood and Jewell -remained in camp, and the former found it extremely monotonous, -having nothing to do but to prepare supper. The only way to keep -warm was by constantly moving about, and, as a cold wind was -blowing, this in itself was not comfortable. The observations were -very trying to Jewell, continued as they were long after the rest -were in their bags. - -On the 8th of April, they suffered more than usual with cold. The -sleeping-bags, frozen stiff, were a long time in thawing out after -they got into them. Dark water-clouds were seen along the northern -horizon, although elsewhere the sky was bright and clear. One, -particularly noticeable, to the northeast and near shore, looked -like a huge cliff in a fog. They also noticed a movement in an -ice-hillock some distance off the coast. It changed its angle to the -east during their stay, and suggested open water across their route -before reaching Cape Beechy. They left camp at ten, and found the -traveling very good—rather improved by the late storm. Jewell and -Ellis began to suffer again, and the latter was carried on the -sledge several miles, the loads being very light. They soon reached -the middle of the divide, and then the loads left on the shore of -Newman Bay, making very fast time through the gorge, though the -sledges had to be let down the snow-slopes and drifts by ropes. -After stopping some time to take on everything, they proceeded -slowly and reached the Boat Camp, and soon after Cape Sumner, where -they stopped to make tidal observations, Lockwood and Brainard -remarking what a particularly dreary and dismal place it was, and -wondering if they should ever see it again. It brought to mind the -trials and tribulations of the previous spring. Yet, in spite of -those trials, the novelty of everything, and the imperfect -equipment, that expedition was a success; and this one, -notwithstanding their experience and the completeness of their -arrangements, a failure. “Oft expectation fails where most it -promises.” Lockwood felt thankful that they had escaped from the -ice-pack, and from passing the forty-eight hours of the recent storm -upon it, living on the pemmican until finally frozen to death; but -the sense of defeat was predominant. They passed a tedious, cold -afternoon, but enjoyed a good dinner, having now an abundance of -rations of all kinds. It warmed them up and put new life in all. -Jewell saw, during his observations, a white owl flying overhead -toward the east. - -The morning of the 10th was bright, clear, and calm. They noticed a -stratum of misty clouds, supposed to be water-clouds, hanging along -the foot of the cliffs on the Grinnell Land shore, and extending -from above Cape Beechy northward indefinitely. After passing through -several bands of rubble-ice with great labor, and yet without having -to double up, they found the tracks made on the outward journey, and -followed them continuously. This saved a great deal of time in -chopping and picking out a road. About noon they suddenly -encountered a very cold south wind. It seemed to come out of Devil’s -Gap, Polaris Promontory, and as usual carried along a lot of fine -drifted snow, continuing during the day. Their heavy loads made the -dogs travel at a slow walk, otherwise, no doubt, both Jewell and -Ellis must have been left behind or carried on the sledges. They -went into camp on a hard snow-drift. - -After an uncomfortable night, with the mercury at 45° below zero, -they left camp and followed the old trail, as on the previous day, -jolting along with little difficulty in the rubble-ice, the dogs -doing admirably, bracing themselves to the effort at bad places, -like so many men. - -They reached Depot B at 2.50 P. M., and pitched the tents, this -making the tenth time that Lockwood had crossed the straits above -Fort Conger. - -The traveling was tedious and slow, but they reached Depot A at -noon, stopping only half an hour, and arrived at Fort Conger in the -afternoon. Everything there was quiet as the grave. “General Grant” -was the only one, man or beast, that knew of their approach and came -out to meet them. Even when they passed the windows and reached the -door, no one saw or heard them, and Lockwood walked in on Lieutenant -Greely like a ghost, and simply said: “Well, I’m back again; open -water at Black Horn Cliffs.” Some of his further reflections were to -this effect: - -“Do I take up my pen to write the humiliating word _failed_? I do, -and bitter is the dose, although it is now a week since first I -tasted it. My return here, the inaction after two and a half weeks -of activity, and the monotony, not to mention the disappointment of -Lieutenant Greely, make it fresh as when first mixed. I tried -yesterday and to-day to induce Lieutenant Greely to let me go out -again, but he says this is our last year here, that I still have -last year’s work to fall back on, and, above all, that it is not -_prudent_. I have a scheme by which I could travel four days beyond -the farthest of ’82, and get back here in forty-four days, leaving -April 21st and returning June 3d—that is, provided an overland route -around the Black Horn Cliffs can be found, and provided the -conditions beyond are no worse than last year. My proposal was to -take the two teams, the two Esquimaux and Brainard, five sacks of -pemmican, one tent, two sleeping-bags, etc., and forty-four days’ -rations for the party. The five sacks would last the dogs -twenty-three days, after which about eight dogs of the twenty would -be killed one by one, and thus the remainder fed on the return. We -should have to make long marches, it is true. Perhaps the refusal is -for the best, and I still have the country southwest of the head of -Archer Fiord to operate in; but I am reluctant to give up this -scheme for passing 83° 24′.” Everything at the station was very -quiet, and much as when they left, except that a party had been sent -for the boat at Thank-God Harbor. - - - - - XV. - ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. - - -While the disappointment which attended the late expedition was very -great, it did not make Lieutenant Lockwood unhappy or morose. He was -only convinced, perhaps, that when the ice and snow and storms, -minions of the North Pole, undertake to play the game of April fool, -they do it very effectually. The absence of so many of his -companions from the station had a depressing effect upon his -spirits, but as usual he prepared the report of his last journey, -and duly submitted it to Lieutenant Greely, all the while suffering -from the severe rheumatic pains which invariably followed his -exposure to severe cold. Many of the men were complaining, and the -weather outlook was not encouraging, and yet, after consulting with -Lieutenant Greely, Lockwood fixed his mind upon an exploration up -and beyond the Archer Fiord. His idea was to go west, at least as -far as the English had gone along the northern shore of Grinnell -Land, feeling that he could hardly fail of finding something of -interest, and would perhaps make important discoveries. Indeed, he -might be able to determine the coast-line on the west. As usual, he -wanted the company of Sergeant Brainard and Esquimaux Frederick, and -would be content with one dog-team and supplies for thirty days, -with a proper supporting party for two days. - -His spirits now became better than they had been, caused chiefly, as -he confessed, by the glorious sun; and yet he could not refrain from -thinking of home, and again resorting for comfort to his old family -letters, which he had so frequently read before. - -His late failure had been a disappointment to himself as well as to -Lieutenant Greely and the men. Some of them seemed down in the mouth -and gloomy, and, by way of cheering them, Lieutenant Greely informed -them that he intended to leave Fort Conger on the 5th of August, or -as soon thereafter as the ice would permit. The personal relations -of Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury with Lieutenant Greely and -himself were not what they should have been, and, instead of getting -better, these relations seemed to grow worse. Could he not have gone -abroad on these fatiguing journeys to escape such companionship, he -would have felt utterly desperate. He certainly would cheerfully -take any risks during the summer than longer endure the existing -personal troubles. Lieutenant Kislingbury’s only thought seemed to -be that a sledge-party should be sent down to Littleton Island to -have the ship leave her supplies at Cape Sabine, therein merely -reflecting the latest opinion of the doctor. - -The start for the western trip was made on the 25th of April, 1883, -with two sledges, each drawn by ten dogs and carrying about one -thousand pounds of rations for thirty days. They moved along the -south side of the harbor over very soft and deep snow, through which -the dogs labored, yet made their way with full loads. On getting -near “Sun Land,” however, the snow became abominable, and the -traveling was as bad as they had ever experienced. After trying for -some time to go ahead, but sticking incessantly, they turned short -off to the left, and after a great deal of work reached the shore, -Brainard _en route_ falling down a crack, and Lockwood feeling -convinced that his feet were frozen, as all sensation had left them. - -Reaching Black Knob Point, where there was a tent, they found it -blown down. After some delay in repitching it, they started overland -toward Sun Bay, through soft and deep snow, and soon afterward -reached Stony Cape, where they encamped, all the party being very -much fatigued. - -Resuming their march, they found the snow not particularly deep, but -with a light crust, not quite hard enough to bear, which made the -traveling fatiguing. They stopped to rest every hour, the weather -being really too warm for comfort, so that Lockwood actually longed -for the cold and hard work he had experienced in north Greenland. -They reached Keppel’s Head in three hours, and found that _Mr._ -Keppel had a very stony face, and not a handsome head by any means, -being a lofty promontory and precipitous mass of rocks, very grand -and imposing. In two hours more they reached Hillock Depot, and -stopped to get some corned beef left there by Lockwood in June of -the preceding year, the English rations left there having all been -eaten by foxes. - -On reaching Depot Point, they transferred everything from the -supporting sledge and sent it back to the station, afterward getting -along with the whole load very well. The high, steep cliffs on their -right threw their shadows almost across the fiord, and kept them out -of the glare of the sun moving along the northern horizon. -Fox-tracks constantly appeared. These tracks were found everywhere, -and yet it was but seldom that the animals themselves were seen; and -in thinking of their habits, Lockwood wondered if they laid up in -store their surplus food against the days of want. A tame fox kept -at the station would always take what was offered; but, when the -ice-wall was pulled down, a large supply was found which Mr. Reuben -had abandoned on regaining his liberty. - -Greatly enjoying the pleasant weather, after finding some Esquimaux -relics, and making a vain effort to surmount a glacier, they finally -reached the head of Ella Bay, where, after some delay in finding -freshwater ice, and snow hard and deep enough to pitch the tent, -they went into camp. Lockwood and Frederick then took the team and -empty sledge, and proceeded up a little water-course a few miles. -Found less ice and more stones than they expected, but, having -ascertained that they could advance up the valley with some extra -labor, returned. Numerous fox, ptarmigan, hare, and musk-ox tracks -were seen, but no game. Brainard became permanent cook, as the -difficult business of making observations devolved entirely on -Lockwood. The cliffs about here were grand, at least three thousand -feet high. - -Lockwood was disappointed in getting equal altitudes of the sun for -longitude (time), the lofty cliffs shutting out the orb of light on -each side of the meridian; and yet he had camped away out, a mile or -two from the cliffs, in order to avoid this difficulty. This was one -of the annoyances he had frequently experienced. After lying awake -for hours, or taking his sleep by short cat-naps with one eye open, -and running out in order to catch the sun at the right time, and all -this after a tiresome march, it was very provoking to have “some -miserable cliff” lift its ugly head right in his way. To get the -local time _well_, it was necessary to take the sun’s altitude some -hours before noon, and then catch the precise instant of the same -altitude in the afternoon, the sun being nearly on the meridian at a -time midway between the times of the two observations. This middle -time needed certain corrections, and then, the watch or chronometer -being regulated to Greenwich or Washington time, the difference of -time, or longitude, was known. The little streams occupying the -valleys (or cañons, as they should be called) of this Arctic country -are utterly insignificant compared with the depressions themselves. -A great, ditch-like break in the country, from two to five miles -wide and ten to thirty miles long, the sides of which are vertical -walls rising thousands of feet, may be the bed of a little brook -that in summer-time can be readily waded, and at other times of the -year can hardly be seen under the universal mantle of snow. It was -one of these that they followed in its windings. Here and there they -would encounter very deep snow, and the sledge-runners would stick -on the beds of stone, requiring all their efforts to get under way -again. In about an hour they came to a long, level area, indicating -Lake Katherine, which Lockwood had previously discovered and named -when up near here in the launch, and then the view up the valley was -unbroken as far as the glacier. Its terminal face could be clearly -seen, looking like a little wall of ice three or four feet high, -upon which one could readily step. Back of this the surface gently -ascended until lost in the snow-covered mountain-side far beyond. -The whole thing looked like a mass of barber’s lather, flowing -slowly down a deep ditch. For some hours, Lockwood and Brainard both -thought there would be no trouble in getting sledge and dogs up the -_little_ face to the undulating and gradually ascending surface -beyond. After proceeding some distance on the lake, Lockwood stopped -the sledge, and with Brainard went off to the right, ascending a low -ridge that ran parallel with the lake and between it and the high -cliffs on the north side of the valley. They found the top to be -four hundred feet high, and beyond was a wide ravine running down to -the bay. There they saw the tracks of three musk-oxen that had -evidently passed along on their way toward the fiord; also many -tracks of foxes, ptarmigan, lemming, and hare. Probably, the chief -reason for seeing so few animals, though so many tracks, was that -the birds and animals (excepting the musk-ox) are all pure white in -color for three fourths of the year. One might _look_ at a hare or -ptarmigan a few yards away and yet not _see_ it. The lake called -Katherine was found to be three or four miles long. At its farther -end, the ground was quite bare of snow in places, and everywhere the -snow was hard and thin, so that they went along very rapidly. Every -half-hour, they thought, would bring them to the glacier, but the -longer they traveled, the farther the glacier seemed to move away. -When only a short walk from the glacier, as Lockwood thought, he -stopped the sledge, and with Brainard went on ahead. The _face_ -seemed much higher than they had supposed it, but it was only after -walking a mile that they realized what it was—a wall of ice, -straight up and down, stretching a mile across the valley from side -to side, and nearly two hundred feet high. - -After surveying this wonderful object, they returned to the sledge -and pitched the tent, seeing no way of proceeding farther; and there -they remained a day or two to get a good look at the surroundings -before deciding upon the proper course to pursue. A decided fall in -the temperature was quite noticeable, due, doubtless, to the -proximity of the glacier. They got to sleep after a while, and -during the day took a good rest, getting up in the afternoon. The -twain went again to reconnoitre, leaving Frederick to hunt, or amuse -himself in any other way he chose. They went to the glacier-wall -again, and followed along its foot to the south side of the valley. -This wall was beautiful and imposing. From the top, one third of the -way downward, the ice was of a charming green color, and looked like -glass; below this came a white surface, in which small stones were -numerous imbedded in the ice, with here and there streaks of a -brownish color, like chocolate ice-cream mixed with vanilla. A close -approach showed that it was earth. At the foot of the wall, probably -concealing a “terminal moraine,” was an undulating bank of snow, and -over the upper edge of the wall hung wreaths of drifted snow that -looked like the icing of cake. The ground for some distance out was -strewed with blocks of ice and stone of all imaginable shapes and -sizes. On reaching the corner of the glacier, a similar wall was -seen extending up along its flank, abutting against an inclined -plain of immense bowlders and masses of rock, the _débris_ from the -cliffs above. The angle thus formed was full of large blocks of ice, -many recently detached from the wall of ice. Traveling along the -flank proved so difficult that they took to the incline and -scrambled for some time over immense masses of rock and snow, often -across deep cracks and openings concealed by the snow covering them. -After gaining an altitude of several hundred feet, they reached -something like a terrace formation, from which they overlooked all -the lower part of the glacier. It presented an undulating and -gradually rising surface, extending up the valley fifteen or twenty -miles, or more. Just opposite to them, a branch glacier came in from -the north through a gap in the mighty cliffs. The slope of this -branch in places was very precipitous, showing great rents and -fissures. The surface of the glacier was free from snow, except, -here and there, in what seemed little depressions in the ice. There -was no way of climbing upon the glacier, much less of getting the -sledge and dogs up. It would simply have been ascending a precipice -of ice two hundred feet high. To get upon it had been their original -intention, although Frederick went through a pantomime at the time, -which they did not exactly understand, expressing how a sledge would -go faster and faster, and finally shoot over the edge like a -waterfall. Whether he ever had had such an experience in Greenland -he did not say, but he would never have had it more than once. -Seeing no way of getting on or along the glacier, except with the -greatest labor, Lockwood proposed to Brainard that they should -ascend the cliffs and get an outlook from the top. It did not seem -very far to the crest, and accordingly they started, but a more -severe climb they had never had, and hoped never to have again. It -was a very steep incline of rocks and snow all the way up. When the -barometer showed an elevation of twenty-five hundred feet, Lockwood -found himself on a ledge of rocks from which he could get neither up -nor down for some time. Beneath him was a steep surface of frozen -snow, falling on which he would have gone down-hill like an -avalanche. Brainard had inclined more to the left, and, by following -the side of a steep gully full of ice, had got ahead of him and out -of sight. - -Finally, Lockwood reached what had long seemed the summit, and -stopped to rest. Presently Brainard came in sight, and said the top -was about a mile off. They then started together, walked over a -gradually ascending surface like the top of a vast dome, covered -with hard frozen snow and ice, and very smooth and slippery, giving -them frequent falls, and at 4 A. M. reached the summit and viewed -the country around for many miles. Being cold, they did not stay -long—only long enough to take bearings by compass of several distant -mountains to the south, snow and ice-clad peaks with many glaciers -between. To the west the country was less broken, and seemingly was -a lofty surface of snow and ice. They traced the glacier near their -camp about twenty miles toward the west-south-west, when it, and the -valley containing it, came to an end in a high mountain-ridge. This -wonderful feature of nature possessed great interest for Lockwood. -The face of the barometer gave an elevation of the mountain or cliff -on which they stood of 5,050 feet above the sea-level. As their tent -was only three hundred feet above tide-water, their climb had not -been a small one. They descended the mountain readily, although they -had to use hands as well as feet all the way down, in some places -carrying with them a land-slide of earth and stones. - -They were constantly deceived as to distances and heights. A -headland on the fiord looked but a half-hour’s travel away, yet it -took two or three hours to reach it. So these cliffs, which looked -from below like an easy climb, proved the highest and steepest in -that benighted region. They got back to the tent after thirteen -hours of as hard work as they had yet experienced, and completely -tired out. They took meridian observation for latitude, and then -enjoyed a hearty meal of ptarmigan killed by Frederick during their -absence. - -On the 2d of May, they left their beds and had breakfast at about -midnight. Found it snowing and unpleasant. Saw little else to do -than retrace their steps to Ella Bay, and thence proceed around to -Beatrix Bay and try to get inland from that place; spent the day, -however, in further reconnoitring, as Lockwood did not wish to leave -before night. Brainard went over to the northeast corner of the -glacier, but found no way of proceeding in that direction, and, -after carefully studying the surroundings, Lockwood could see no -means of getting on even with packs. Spent most of the day in taking -observations, etc. Occasionally they heard a noise like thunder, -caused by the falling in of sections of the great wall before them, -more formidable than any to be seen in China. The ground at the foot -of the wall was only the bed of a stream with blocks of ice, and -here and there a big bowlder. Everything being packed up and ready, -they started down the stream again, examining several deep breaks in -the cliffs to see if there was any prospect of _flanking_ the -glacier by means of one of them, but without success. There was no -way of getting up even a short distance, except by leaving dogs and -sledge behind and taking to the knapsacks, which was not then to be -thought of. - -They got along without event and reached their old camp after -midnight, pitching the tent farther toward the north side, in order -to see the sun when ready to take observations. Shortly after -getting in, Frederick laid his whip down for an instant, and the -promising dog Barker gobbled up all except about six inches of the -butt-end in much less time than it takes to mention the fact. The -praises of Barker had been sung ever since his birth, and this was -only one of many of the tricks by which he proved his proficiency. -Frederick quickly made a new lash, however, and _gave it_ to Barker -on the next march. - -On the 3d of May, as they pushed their way onward, they took a -series of angles and paced distances to get at the height of the -tremendous cliffs near at hand. The result gave an altitude of -forty-one hundred feet, which was almost vertical, the _débris_ -extending a third of the way up, and not being quite so steep. They -then followed the north shore to Record Point, and thence took a -straight course for the head of Beatrix Bay. The cliffs were so -grand that Lockwood never tired of gazing at them, wondering how -they were first formed, and thinking what tremendous force of nature -had scooped out the awful chasm that comprised the fiord. These -walls, high as they were, were only one half or one third of the -height of the great snow-covered elevations back of and beyond them. - -The appreciation of the grand in this region was frequently marred -by fatigue and hunger, and so it was on the present occasion, -Lockwood being glad enough when, at half-past one, they reached the -head of Beatrix Bay. In the valley which they now entered, they -concluded to spend another day. This one, like nearly all the -valleys in this region, was simply a cañon, a narrow, ditch-like -formation, walled in by steep, high cliffs. It was occupied as usual -by a very insignificant stream, the successor of some mighty mass of -water or ice which had originally hollowed out the great gorge. -This, and the head of Ella Bay, were the farthest reached by -Lieutenant Archer, R. N., who explored the fiord named for him to -find out whether it was simply a _fiord_, or a strait or channel, as -the Polaris people had asserted it to be. His Mount Neville, -thirty-eight hundred feet high, Lockwood looked for in vain as a -regular head to the valley, and finally fixed it as one of the -cliffs which, a little way back, rose slightly higher, to a dome. -Archer was a day making the ascent. Lockwood and Brainard walked -about four miles up the valley, and saw its termination nearly six -miles beyond, when they retraced their course to camp, greatly -disappointed in seeing no game, except two or three ptarmigans. The -valley seemed practicable for the sledge, and so, after considering -one or two narrow and rocky gorges which came in from the west, they -determined to follow it to its head (north-northwest), and then seek -farther a route in the direction desired, which was west or -southwest. As they proceeded, the weather became bright and clear, -and the mercury was only 2° below zero. They passed up the valley, -leaving in _cache_ for return two days’ rations. The dogs were in -excellent condition, and, in spite of stones, went along very well. -There was some ice in the stream-bed, and of snow quite an -abundance. Above the farthest reached the day before, a small lake -was discovered—a level expanse of snow with ice beneath. The lower -part of the valley had two distinct elevations, the stream-bed, a -very easy grade, forming one, while along the stream extended broken -terraces, termed shoulders, which from the cliffs projected out on -either side, sometimes beyond the middle of the valley, which was -from one to three miles wide. The breadth decreased as they -ascended, and after several miles it was but a few hundred yards -wide. At this point, they suddenly came to a place where the valley -seemed to run out, the whole breadth being a mass of rocks. Good -traveling was seen beyond, however, and, after working an hour -doubling up (taking half-load at a time), they got over, and shortly -afterward the real end of the valley was reached. They then turned -short off to the north, and, going up a steep, rocky ravine, about -midnight pitched the tent for further survey of the scene on the -morrow. - -From this camp a low-looking “hog-back” was seen to close in the -head of the valley. They determined to ascend this and get a look at -the country, it seeming certain that the _big_ sledge could go no -farther. After making some coffee as strong as it could be made, and -drinking about a quart each, to bolster up their spirits, the twain -again started out, leaving Frederick to crawl into his sleeping-bag -or keep warm as best he might. They proceeded north up a rocky -ravine about a mile, and then came to a level plain stretching -northward, some half a dozen miles farther, to a line of cliffs -running across which seemed to indicate another valley or lake. To -the right were two or three high, dome-shaped elevations, and to the -left was Mount Easy, so called, afterward, on account of the ease -with which they ascended it, and in contradistinction to Mount -Difficult, the last they had ascended. They soon came to a pretty -little lake—Lake Carolyn—only a few miles long. This they crossed, -and, in places where the snow had been blown off, they could see -down through the beautiful transparent ice, seven feet in thickness, -even to the stones on the bottom of the lake near the shore. This -lake had an elevation of eleven hundred feet above the sea. In three -hours from camp, they reached the top of the mountain, an elevation -of 2,720 feet, and had a good view. To the south the country was -very high, and several glacier-walls came into view, probably -connections of the glacier above Ella Bay. The Henrietta Nesmith -glacier, the Garfield range, and the United States Mountains, were -plainly seen, and also the depression in which lay Lake Hazen. Snow -and ice in every direction. The cliffs to the north of the camp were -very conspicuous, but whether along a valley or lake they could not -make out. They stayed on top two hours, and then descended the south -side of the mountain through a deep ravine filled in places with -snow-drifts, and lower down with stones and bowlders. However, they -went down very rapidly, and got to camp in two hours. The cliffs to -the north seeming to extend to the west, Lockwood decided to visit -them and take that route. The only other feasible route was by way -of the ravine they had descended from the mountain-top. - -Shortly after midnight of the 7th, Frederick had the dogs and little -sledge ready, and, with nothing upon it but the shot-gun, hatchet, -and telescope, they all started. The dogs were irrepressible, and -took the little sledge over the rocks in a way calculated to cripple -all hands, for they had to run alongside and hold on to the -upstanders to keep up. Occasionally a runner of the sledge would -catch under a bowlder and bring the sledge to a sudden stand-still, -the immense strain of the strong dogs threatening to break it. On -reaching the lake, all three of the men managed to crowd upon the -sledge, and the dogs went at a rapid trot over its smooth, level -surface. Beyond Lake Carolyn was a ravine leading toward the river, -and there the dogs took to a gallop, and in an hour they reached a -rocky height overlooking a long, wide valley walled in on the north -side by high, precipitous cliffs, and on the south by heights of -even greater elevation, but not so steep. There seemed no way, -however, to get down. The water-course from the lake here became a -narrow gorge blocked with large bowlders, the spaces between which -were full of soft snow. It was not inviting, but they tried it, and -in an hour reached the river-bed, the descent being most laborious. -Here they found themselves only four hundred feet above the -sea-level, and, turning to the right, went down-stream in a -northeastern direction, the barometer constantly showing that they -were going _down_-stream. _En route_ they passed over several small -lakes formed by expansions of the stream. In many places the ice was -very thick and beautifully transparent. Seven miles from Rocky -Gorge, where they entered the river, they suddenly saw four -musk-oxen. Frederick being very anxious for slaughter was allowed to -go after them, while Brainard remained to watch the sledge and dogs, -and Lockwood went off to the right to take some compass-bearings. -After a while he heard a shot from Frederick, and saw one of the -animals fall. The others did not seem at all frightened, but stood -by their dead comrade until Frederick _drove_ them away by throwing -stones at them. The dogs became greatly excited, and, going to where -the dead game lay—a second ox having been killed—they gorged -themselves with the entrails until there was danger of ruining their -own. - -Having returned to the camp, Lockwood now projected a special trip -westward of twelve days, and prepared his outfit as follows: -Shelter-tent, sleeping-bags, axe, sextant, etc., telescope, shot-gun -and ammunition, medicine, cook’s bag, rubber blankets, small lamp, -knapsacks, snow-shoes, rations for three at forty-five ounces each -per day, and one sack of pemmican for dogs; total, 328¼ pounds. The -_large_ tent was left standing with the big sledge alongside and the -American flag flying from the upstander. They got off at an early -hour on the 8th with the dogs in excellent condition. Much work was -required to get over the rocks, but after that they proceeded -satisfactorily until near the valley. This was found to be quite -wide for a region where everything of the kind was more like a cañon -than a valley in the ordinary sense. Its width was two or three -miles, or perhaps in some places four, and the general gradients of -the stream-bed (Dodge River) were very slight, perhaps thirty feet -to the mile. Narrow, deep cuts in the cliffs and high ground around -indicated tributary streams. - -Frederick having shot a hare, and gathered up the other food, they -proceeded on their way, traveling now over thick, clear ice and hard -snow, with now and then patches of stones. The valley seemed to come -to an end some fifteen miles up-stream, a range of high hills -running directly across it. - -After various tribulations in exploring a side gorge, at midnight on -the 10th of May the party resumed travel up the valley. The -condition of the sledge-runners rendered it necessary to reduce the -weight to the least amount possible. This doubtless pleased the -dogs, for the driver had to restrain their ardor. Leaving the sledge -to pursue its way along the base of the hills, Lockwood ascended a -considerable elevation and obtained a good outlook over the country. -He was very agreeably surprised to find at the farther end of a gap -up stream an apparent prolongation of the valley in the same general -direction. On either side of this prolongation was a range of low -heights, while the intermediate surface looked very level—so level -that he took it for a long lake. To the left, just outside the -heights on that side of the valley, he could see at intervals a -glacier-wall, the north boundary of a great _mer de glace_. About -twenty miles distant, the valley seemed again to be shut in by a -range of hills, but over the tops of them, and at a great elevation -on the distant horizon, he saw what seemed to be a snow-bank. This -he made his objective point. Passing onward through the gap, they -came to a long and picturesque lake which was named Lake Nan after -an interesting niece; and coming to a place near the end of the -valley, a break in the low heights to the left revealed the glacier -they had before seen. Its surface was very distinct. Extending to -the south a few miles, it soon reached an elevation that formed the -horizon in that direction. It seemed a vast undulating surface, and, -as was afterward discovered, is the backbone of Grinnell Land. The -wall of the glacier near which they camped presented a vertical face -of solid ice 140 feet high. At intervals they heard the sound of -falling ice—small fragments which became detached and dropped to the -base. The altitude of this camp above the sea-level was found to be -1,240 feet, and of Lake Nan 920 feet; that of their last camp was -685 feet, and of the first camp in the valley, 420 feet. - -Passing onward, they crossed several small lakes close along the -wall, with brooks emptying into them from the north. In a few hours -they were on the divide, the surface to the north having more slope -than that on the other side. The summit gave an elevation by -barometer of 2,610 feet, about 400 feet higher than where they left -the wall. They had an extensive view to the east, and could see -Dodge River as far as they had explored it, also Mount Easy and the -country adjacent. To the southeast, south, and southwest, was seen -the glacier, which was named after Agassiz. It formed the horizon -for half a dozen miles in these directions. All the ice-capped -country and glaciers seen from the former camps were found to be -connected with, and to form a part of this one glacier. Toward the -north, the country had comparatively little snow. Presently they -came in view of a mountain-peak toward the northwest, not many miles -distant, which was recognized as Mount Arthur, the farthest point -reached by Lieutenant Greely during the previous year. Away beyond -it were seen very distinctly the United States and Garfield -Mountains. Just to the west of Mount Arthur, they discovered a large -lake, which Lockwood named Lake Fletcher. They were now on a surface -rapidly sloping to the west. Some miles distant in this direction -appeared a broken range of cliffs and mountains, and between their -stand-point and these mountains was a wide valley, connected by a -stream with Lake Fletcher, and a small lake, close to the Chinese -Wall, which they called Lake Harry, the latter having an elevation -of 1,320 feet. They crossed Lake Harry, and beyond it came to -another called Lake Bessie, having an elevation of 1,630 feet, and -covered with deep snow. - -Reaching the cliffs to the west, they found the descent exceedingly -precipitous and rugged. No other passage offered than that through a -gorge which was filled with ice and hard snow, whose surface was -almost perpendicular. As this was the only passage, they went into -camp to devise ways and means. Next morning, Lockwood attached all -the ropes he had, including dog-traces, to the sledge, and while he -rode to guide caused the others to ease down the sledge. -Unfortunately, the rope was too short, and those at the top let go. -Gravity carried the sledge and rider down the foot of the slope, now -somewhat reduced, with fearful rapidity, till they brought up -against rocks covered with snow, fortunately without serious damage. -The other men and dogs got down as best they could, the former -digging footholds as they progressed. - -Further descending the cañon, they came to another glacier -stretching entirely across their way, and, as it seemed impossible -to surmount it or the walls on either side, they came to a halt and -enjoyed a night of rest. The next day they pushed on, though -troubled with snow-blindness, and, overcoming the obstacle of the -previous day, crossed a lake and encamped on its farther end. On the -following day, after passing through a gorge, the outlet of the -lake, between high cliffs, they were surprised to see a number of -floebergs similar in every respect to the floebergs of the east -Grinnell coast. At the same time they found the water to be _salt_, -and saw the fresh tracks of a bear. These facts convinced Lockwood -that they were near the western sea, probably at the head of a -fiord. This soon became still more apparent. Here they also saw -another glacier coming in some miles west of the last. They crossed -a crack of open water, formed by the tide, and found themselves on -well-recognized floe-ice, quite level but covered in places with -deep snow. Ahead of them, twenty miles distant, on the opposite side -of the fiord, was a bold headland, and toward this they now directed -their course. This fiord, which Lockwood named after Lieutenant -Greely, separated at its head into two bays. These he called, after -Greely’s daughters, Adola and Antoinette. The latter bay they were -now crossing, while they bore away to the north. It had become very -foggy, and was snowing and blowing hard. When some miles out they -crossed other bear-tracks, and finally reached the cape for which -they had been striving. Here the south shore of the fiord bent off -toward the west-southwest being very wide and walled in on all sides -by steep cliffs broken in a few places by branch fiords or bays. -They encamped at the cape on the 13th, had supper, and soon turned -in to sleep and fast as long as possible, or until the storm abated, -as the party was now reduced to what they called a starvation -allowance. There was nothing to do but to make observations when the -sun appeared. - -The mouth of the fiord at the north side was found to be about forty -miles off, but the snow was deep and soft, and they could not -attempt it without rations, all of which was extremely provoking. -The sun became dimly visible through a snow-storm, looking like a -grease-spot in the sky; but, notwithstanding, observations were -attempted for latitude and longitude, and many compass-bearings were -taken. At times everything was shut out of sight excepting the -nearest cliff. Brainard feared they would have a very hard time in -getting back, and Frederick evidently thought he was a long distance -from Fort Conger, seeming rather “down in the mouth.” - -Soon after breakfast on the 15th, Lockwood and Brainard started to -ascend the cliffs near by, the weather having partially cleared. -They did so by means of a ravine opposite the camp, and had hardly -reached the top before the snow began to fall again, and the wind to -blow from the east; but, notwithstanding, they saw a large glacier -to the south twenty or thirty miles away, and another to the -northwest at about the same distance. The first was apparently an -offshoot of the great “Chinese Wall” already mentioned. They saw -also a lofty range of mountains far to the north, running generally -parallel with the fiord. The cliffs to the west shut out the mouth -of the fiord, and, before they could get far enough in that -direction to see over them, the coming storm obscured almost -everything. These cliffs were 2,140 feet high by the barometer, and -almost vertical. The driving snow now became very uncomfortable, -and, after going three miles westward, they concluded to return. _En -route_, they found a number of fossils of what seemed to be trees, -snakes, or fishes, Brainard being the first to notice them. They -also saw a ptarmigan, an owl, and some snow-buntings, these being -the only living objects observed. Reached the tent after six hours’ -absence, and found Frederick tramping around in the snow, not -knowing what to do with himself. After supper, all three of the -party with the sledge and dogs went an hour’s journey toward the -opposite shore of the fiord, ten miles away. The sky was partially -clear, and they got a very good view down the fiord, the telescope -bringing into view another cape (Cape Lockwood). Between that and -the cape on the north side (Cape Brainard), they failed to see any -land, though they examined long and carefully with the telescope. -The fiord between those two capes was very wide. Several branch -fiords, or what appeared to be such, were noticed. Cape Lockwood -seemed to be on the farther side of one of these, or on an island. -The country on both sides of the fiord was very elevated, that on -the north side much broken, and that on the south, away from the -fiord, apparently an ice-clad surface rising into immense, dome-like -undulations against the horizon. - -After a meager breakfast, they started on their return, finding the -snow very deep and soft. The effect of short rations on the dogs was -noticed. They saw two seals lying on the ice, which Frederick tried -hard to shoot, but in vain. Lockwood was especially anxious to get a -seal, for it looked as if they would have to kill one dog to save -the remainder. After much trouble for want of food, they resumed -their journey on the 17th, verifying at various points the -observations that had been previously made in regard to the great -ice-wall and the lake over which they had already passed. - -On reaching the end of the lake, they began the ascent of the -ravine. The snow at the head of the ravine was very soft and deep, -and they had hard work to get through it. Arriving at the big -snow-drift which they had descended with so much difficulty and -danger, it became a question how to ascend, but they managed it by -first cutting some steps and getting the dogs up, and then, -attaching them by long lines to the sledge below, men and dogs -together pulled the load up the almost vertical face. The party went -into camp at the old place, and decided to kill one of the dogs, yet -very reluctantly, Frederick opposing it. Brainard had suggested -White Kooney, but Frederick named Button, a young dog. Button had -eaten up his harness that morning, and this decided his fate. He was -shot by Frederick, and soon the carcass was skinned and presented to -his brethren. Old Howler at once seized a hind-quarter, but the -others did nothing more than smell the meat. They walked around it -in a reflective mood, debating whether to yield to their hunger or -to their repugnance. When the party awoke next morning, nothing -remained of poor Button but some of the larger bones. - -On the 18th, Lockwood and Brainard ascended a neighboring mountain -and got a look at the country. The ascent was easy and they gained -the top in a short time; altitude, 2,008 feet. From this point they -could see the “Chinese Wall” stretching off to the southwest forty -miles, over hills and dales, as far as the glacier south of Fossil -Mountain, although Lockwood could not recognize that particular -glacier. The glaciers at the two ends of the lake, near Greely -Fiord, were readily seen to be offshoots of the greater one, whose -surface toward the south could be seen for several miles. In that -direction, Lockwood took the bearings of several ice-capped -mountains, one, as he thought, identical with a very high mountain -seen to the south from Antoinette Bay. The “Chinese Wall” had the -same general aspect everywhere—a vertical face of pure white or -green ice upward of two hundred feet high, and extending across the -country in a fashion he could liken to nothing else. - -From here Lockwood made a short excursion by himself to Lake Harry, -discovered a number of other small lakes, and obtained the altitude -of several localities. He returned to camp only to find the dogs in -a bad way for food, and a scarcity for himself and men. Resuming -their course the next morning, after the dog Howler had performed -the remarkable feat of stealing a piece of meat when it was cooking -on the alcohol-stove, they passed many of the localities they had -seen before, but in some cases hardly recognized them on account of -the flying snow. Making two marches in twenty-four hours, they -reached their first camp, and found the tent blown down, but the big -sledge in its position, with the American flag flying over it as -gayly as if in a pleasant and genial clime. The dogs were gratified -with a good feast of pemmican, and the men themselves found it -delightful, once more to have a full supply of food. - -Their next move was for Archer Fiord, by way of Beatrix Bay and -Record Point. They crossed another lake, where, as once before, they -could see the bottom through ice that was seven feet in thickness, -having revisited the north side of Musk-ox Valley, which was -separated from the lake by a very low and narrow divide. Dodge River -was seen bending off to the northeast toward Howgate Fiord. The -surroundings were very picturesque, but barren and desolate in the -extreme. They saw no signs of game, and even the poor, stunted -vegetation of the region was wanting. Rocks and snow, with stretches -of bare ground, composed the prospect. - -The lake alluded to above was about twelve miles long—a considerable -sheet of water—and, no doubt, in summer would be an interesting -place to visit, as places go in the Arctic regions. - -After camping they proceeded along to the east of Murray Island, the -weather cloudy and calm. Depot Point was revisited, to look for the -English rations, but nothing found. - -Having killed a seal, they took the meat and blubber along, and -camped about ten miles from Bulley’s Lump, where they had a good -feast of meat and liver. The latter was greatly relished, Brainard -making it into many dishes. - -On the 24th, they enjoyed their breakfast at midnight, Lockwood -calling it a real _midnight mass_, as it was a black mass of -seal-liver, English meat, corned beef, potatoes, and hard bread, all -cooked together in one stew which was very good, notwithstanding its -miscellaneous character. - -The comments of Lockwood, in regard to the expedition, and how -matters were at the station, were as follow: - -“No such word as ‘failed’ to write this time, I am thankful to say, -but the happy reflection is mine that I accomplished more than any -one expected, and more than I myself dared hope—the discovery of the -western sea, and hence the western coast-line of Grinnell Land. I -have now the rather ponderous task of preparing a report, making a -map, and writing out this journal from my notes. Tidal observations -have been taken at Capes Baird, Distant, and Beechy, simultaneously, -showing that the tides arrive at these places in the order named. -This is very singular, as the previous expeditions into these parts -established (?) the tides as coming from the north. This agrees, -however, with the order of their arrival at Cape Sumner, Gap Valley, -and Black Horn Cliffs, where I took observations in April. No more -musk-ox meat left; it ran out on the 20th inst., and hunting-parties -sent out April 25th saw nothing. I surmised as much, from the -absence of game on my trip, though Brainard did not agree with me. -Two seals have been shot, but only one secured. - -“I find the social relations of our room not improved—rather worse -than better. Dr. P., though he shook hands and asked me several -questions as to my trip, relapsed into silence, which he seldom -breaks. Lieutenant K. had but one question to ask. I often contrast -ours with the pleasant relations of the English officers when here, -and think how much happier we should be in following their example. -As it is, I soon relapse into _ennui_ and apathy. A sledge-journey, -with all its trials, is preferable to this. I view those ahead of us -with indifference, as it will rid me of this forced association. -Another winter would render me a maniac, or put me under a cairn. - -“The spirits of the men seem good. The sun has revived them. Merry -groups may be seen at any time on the sunny sides of the house. - -“How often do I think of home, which now seems to me like a series -of pictures or objects long since seen! how often of my dear father, -whom may a kind Providence spare for many, many years! - -“Both Brainard and I lost a score of pounds weight on our late trip; -but we are rapidly regaining our avoirdupois. My appetite is -frightful, and nothing comes amiss. I want to eat every three or -four hours. Fortunately, we have a supply of musk-ox beef on hand, -having killed three recently aggregating four hundred pounds, to -which are added many water and other fowl daily brought in. There -was felt at one time some apprehension that our resource in this -respect had disappeared, and fears were entertained of scurvy. The -men seem to have fared so well that their appetites have become -dainty. One would suppose that pork and beans were not staples at -our army posts. - -“Israel makes my _farthest_ of the last trip, latitude 80° 47´, -longitude 88° 29´. Hence my explorations extend over 2½° of latitude -and 38° of longitude. Have plotted my western journey, and find that -my farthest carries me far off the English map. I took latitude and -longitude observations at every camp, and also frequent -compass-bearings; to reconcile all these is a task. - -“Rice has taken a photograph of my corner, where I do all my work -and also sleep. - -“Have been reading the authorities on glaciers, and regret I did not -inform myself better before going out. But perhaps that Chinese Wall -will make up for my short-comings. - -“Those rheumatic pains I had a year ago have returned and trouble me -much. I must be moving again soon. - -“Several of the dogs, becoming mangy, have been shot. Poor old -‘Howler,’ whom we left on the ice-floe, hoping he would recover and -follow us, was found dead near the same place. Oh! the hours of -misery I have spent in sleeping-bags, kept awake by that howling -brute—howling, perhaps, just because another dog looked at him! But, -for all his howlings and stealings, the ex-king was a good worker -and did his duty, and that should be all required of any one, man or -dog. May he rest in peace in the happy hunting-grounds of the canine -race! Frederick, I presume, will put on crape for him.” - - - - - XVI. - PREPARING FOR HOME. - - -Hardly had Lieutenant Lockwood reoccupied his _corner_ long enough -to get thoroughly rested and warm, before we find him hard at work -again and ready for any emergency. At the request of Lieutenant -Greely, he undertook a task in which he himself feared that he -manifested more zeal than discretion. Dr. Pavy, the natural history -custodian of the expedition, having failed to render reports of the -collections, or properly care for them, was relieved soon after -Lockwood’s return from the west, and the department was transferred -to Lockwood. With very little aid from the doctor, he made lists and -secured the specimens from further injury, the men having shown much -industry and zeal in adding to the collection. In the mean time, -Fredericks, who was a saddler by trade, rendered good service by -making for Lockwood and the men seal-skin boots, which were of great -use; and he also made himself useful by overhauling the -sleeping-bags and making new ones for the contemplated boat-voyage -to Littleton Island at a later day. Snyder had also made some -wearing gear for use on board the relief-ship. - -“What a change for us all,” wrote Lockwood on the 3d of June, “if we -ever return home! And how much to talk about, and how much to hear! -Just two years ago, I left Baltimore on the Nova Scotia, to join the -Proteus at St. John’s. Open water is reported in the straits near -Cape Baird. How eagerly we watch for any change that may effect our -release!” - -On the 22d of June, a party was sent up the Bellows for game and -returned successful, having killed eight musk-oxen, one seal, and a -few geese, all of which were duly brought in. Many waterfowl and -ptarmigans were brought from other points; and then followed a grand -dinner in honor of Dr. Pavy’s birthday. To show the social relations -of the officers, Lockwood says, “The only remark at dinner was a -very sage one by myself, viz., that the sun was now on his way -south, to which Lieutenant Greely assented. - -“The men all busy and all cheerful. Lieutenant Greely remarked that -it did not look as if the ‘gloom which their coming fate cast over -the spirits of the men’ was quite as deep as Lieutenant Kislingbury -thought it to be. Another day gone,” wrote Lockwood—“another day -nearer the end of our stay here! A miserable, gloomy day it is too. -Snow, or snow mixed with rain, all day, and last night it blew a -gale from the right direction to clear away the ice—north-east. I -think myself now in excellent condition for a hermit’s life, having -had two years’ experience of a life not very dissimilar.” - -On the 3d of June, Lockwood made the ascent of an immense “hog-back” -north of the station. Hog-back was the term used by the English to -designate the oval-shaped elevations so common in this region, being -neither mountain nor table-land, but immense undulations which, with -more or less slope, rise three, four, or even five thousand feet -above the sea-level. He was the first to ascend this one, and did so -to view the country northwest of it, which he desired to explore. It -was the highest of a series of ridges, half a mile or so apart, each -just high enough to suggest the idea of its being the genuine top, -but showing another beyond still higher. He pressed on, frequently -resting, and finally _did_ reach the top, and saw, beyond, the -United States Mountains in the distance. The view from this -elevation, more than half a mile above the sea-level, was superb. -The straits seemed one solid mass of ice. The Greenland shore and -Archer’s Fiord were in full view. The whole land was made up of -mountains. - -The 4th of July was celebrated by a game of baseball, in which -Lieutenant Greely took part; also the Esquimaux, but they confined -themselves to running after the ball. A good dinner followed, to -which Lieutenant Greely contributed four bottles of Sauterne; but -the doctor declined the wine, and made a hasty meal. They also had a -rifle-match. Several of the men donned white shirts and other -“store-clothes,” metamorphosing themselves completely, flannel -shirts, with trousers in boots, being the usual costume. - -On the same day Lieutenant Greely issued an order directing Dr. Pavy -to turn over to Lieutenant Lockwood all the medical stores, -journals, and collections, the former having declined to renew his -engagement, which had expired. On the 11th of July, Lockwood started -with Brainard on an exploration toward the northwest with a view of -reaching, if possible, the United States range of mountains. They -carried an outfit weighing one hundred pounds, or twenty-five pounds -for each man at the start, as Henry and Biederbick were to help them -with the impedimenta for one day and then return. They went without -sledge or tent, and carried only blanket, sleeping-bags, a small -lamp, and a few pounds of food, with instruments, snow-shoes, etc. -They soon reached the top of the hog-back beyond “Sugar-Loaf,” and -afterward the true hog-back Lockwood had visited before, finding it -2,700 feet high. Thence they kept a north-northwest course toward a -prominent glacier in the United States Range, moving about parallel -to North Valley Creek, which empties into St. Patrick’s Bay. After -traveling fourteen miles they camped—that is, selected as smooth and -sheltered a spot as could be found, made some tea, spread out the -sleeping-bags, and crawled in. - -Henry and Biederbick left the next morning evidently well satisfied -to forego the pleasures of this trip. Their departure rendered it -necessary to reduce the load somewhat, which was done by leaving -behind the snow-shoes and rubber spread, trusting to luck to find a -bare spot for their sleeping-bag. After tramping through much wet -snow alternating with mud and stones, and getting their feet soaking -wet, they came to two deep gorges close together, each occupied by a -considerable stream of water. They crossed these and ascended a dome -beyond, three thousand feet high, and thence came to a still larger -stream whose gorge was one thousand feet deep. Here they stopped for -the night after a tramp of twelve miles. The next morning the sky -was overcast, with barometric indications of a storm; but they -continued their way with reduced loads, having only one day’s food -left. Following the stream northwest a few miles, they crossed it -and ascended a high elevation, from which the United States range -could be very distinctly viewed, and then came to the conclusion -that they had gone far enough. - -With the telescope they could see distinctly, about twenty miles -away, the walls of the great glacier, and its face ten miles wide. -In fact, the whole range was full of glaciers. The country -intervening between them and the glaciers seemed comparatively -level. At noon they started back, and did not stop until the -camping-place of the night before was reached. Thence, after a drink -of tea and something to eat, abandoning their sleeping-bags, they -made for their first camp, where had been left the rubber spread and -one extra bag. The traveling was execrable, but they reached Fort -Conger on the 14th, hungry, tired, and decidedly used up. - -On the 24th, preparations began for the proposed boat-journey toward -the south on which they would start when the ice would permit. -Lockwood, in obedience to a general order, prepared to take no -clothing except what he wore, and the few pounds of his baggage -would consist of his journal and other papers. He felt depressed and -low-spirited, and totally indifferent as to the risks they were to -encounter. - -The straits were reported clear of ice below Cape Lieber on the -26th, but the bay near by was still full, though with many leads. -Every preparation was made to leave on the 1st of August, if -possible, or as soon after as the ice would allow. The men fiddled -and sang, and seemed in joyous spirits; and the hilarity was kept up -by the dogs Ritenbank and Ask-him having a terrible fight, resulting -in victory to the latter. The probable consequence was that Ask-him -would now be king. Ritenbank went about with his head down and tail -between his legs, a dethroned and friendless monarch. The usurper’s -reign, however, was likely to be a short one, as, on the party’s -leaving, the dogs would either be shot or left to starve to death. - -The 5th of August arrived, and the ship was the only thing talked -about. Some of the men reported smoke down the straits, but it was -soon found to be only water-clouds or fog. In the midst of these -excitements, Lockwood gave expression to the following feelings: “As -the time for moving approaches, I feel a singular apathy. If we had -plenty of fresh meat and more good books, I could stand another -winter here.” - -Soon after, heavy winds from the south making great changes in the -condition of the ice, active preparations were made for leaving. - -Lockwood writes: “I don’t feel as though I was going away, much less -toward the south. Have felt more stirred up on beginning a -sledge-journey.” - - - TABULATED STATEMENT OF THE DISTANCE TRAVELED TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. - - Distance traveled. Time. - Adv Tr Add Tot Adv Tr MPH - Miles—Geographical. Hours. Geo. M. - OUT. - Fort Conger to Boat 48 67 157 224 21½ 28¼ 2·23 - Camp - Boat Camp to 36 86 25 111 18¾ 44⅓ 1·92 - sea-coast - Sea-coast to Cape 37½ 103½ 12 113 21½ 47¹/₁₂ 1·74 - Bryant - Cape Bryant to Cape 60 118 .. 118 32 55⁵/₁₂ 1·87 - Britannia - Cape Britannia to 95 95 .. 95 39⅔ 48⅙ 2·39 - farthest - Total (out) 267½ 469½ 194 701 133½ 223¾ 2·07 - BACK. - Farthest to Cape 95 95 .. 95 37⅓ 41¾ 2·52 - Britannia - Cape Britannia to 60 60 .. 60 25¾ 28 2·33 - Cape Bryant - Cape Bryant to Boat 61½ 61½ .. 61½ 27¼ 36½ 2·25 - Camp - Boat Camp to Fort 48 48 .. 48 22½ 28⅓ 2·13 - Conger - Total (back) 264½ 264½ .. 264½ 112⅚ 134²/₁₂ 2·34 - Aggregate (out and 541 734 194 965½ 245¹¹/₁₂ 357⅚ 2·20 - back) - Aggregate (out and 623 .. .. 1069 - back) in statute - miles - - Key to Headings: - Adv: Advanced. - Add: Additional miles traveled. - Tr: Traveled. - Tot: Total. - MPH: Number of miles per hour. - -The word “advanced,” both here and in the journal, refers to the -simple distance from camp to camp, and the actual time occupied in -making that distance—all stops _deducted_. - -The word “traveled” includes total number of miles traveled—the -number of miles advanced added to those traveled in going back and -forth in “doubling up.” The time corresponding refers to the whole -time from leaving one camp to arriving at the next, all stops -included. - -The “additional miles” refer to incidental journeys not numbered as -marches. - -The rate per hour is computed from the distance and time _advanced_. - -The whole statement is confined to the dog-sledge. - - - - - XVII. - HOMEWARD BOUND. - - -The time having arrived, the final orders were given for the Arctic -exiles to make ready for the first stage of travel leading to their -far-distant home. They were now to leave the station at Fort Conger, -and, as best they could, find their way to Littleton Island, where -they hoped to meet a vessel that would take them back to -Newfoundland. They were to depart in boats, viz., the steam-launch -Lady Greely, a whale-boat, an English boat of which they had come -into possession, and a still smaller affair, that might prove -serviceable for special purposes. - -The journal kept by Lieutenant Lockwood after his departure from -Fort Conger was written in short-hand, as always while in the field, -and is a very complete record. In the following pages, only a brief -summary of purely personal incidents will be attempted, without -presuming to give the phraseology of the youthful explorer. - -On the 9th of August, the little fleet pushed off from shore, laden -with the twenty-five adventurers and a comfortable supply of -provisions. They reached Bellot Island without much trouble, but -afterward encountered a good deal of ice, and, while working very -hard to get through, Rice accidentally fell overboard, which was for -him a poor beginning. The ice continued to be troublesome until the -close of the next day, when the boats were so severely nipped that -they had to be drawn up on the floe. Afterward, open water appearing -all the way across the fiord, the launch and the other boats made a -successful crossing nearly opposite Sun Bay. They reached the depot -near Cape Baird, at about 2 P. M., up to which hour, from the time -of leaving Fort Conger, they had not been able to secure any sleep, -nor anything to drink but cold water. Reaching Cape Lieber on the -11th in a snow-storm, they landed on a bluff about a mile from the -cape, where they waited for the ice to move, so that they might -continue on their route toward the south along the western shore of -the strait. The only animals seen in that vicinity were two -narwhals, fighting near the shore. The fog now became so very dense -that no headway could be made, and this gave them an opportunity to -obtain some needed rest. Their next advance was in the midst of a -severe storm of wind and snow, in spite of which they reached Carl -Ritter Bay on the morning of the 12th. The next morning, while they -had open water near the shore, they discovered ice-barriers -extending to the south as far as they could see. At this point a -young seal was killed, which was greatly enjoyed by all of the -party; but this luxury, in the case of Lockwood, was counterbalanced -by the discomfort of sleeping on shore without any protection -excepting that of his bag. He also spent several nights on a -floe-berg, where, by laying his sleeping-bag on a sheep-skin, he -slept more comfortably. From the 13th until the 20th, when the party -reached Rawlings’s Bay, it was a continual conflict with floating -ice, snow-storms, and fog, the monotony of the struggle having been -broken by an accident to the launch, and also one to Lieutenant -Greely, who had a fall into the water, from which he was rescued -without harm. At all the places where they encamped, they had great -difficulty in securing a safe harbor for the launch. Having passed -across Richardson Bay in safety and reached Cape Collinson, they -found about one hundred and twenty, out of two hundred and forty, -English rations which had been deposited there, the missing portion -having been eaten by the foxes. On the 22d they reached Scoresby -Bay, where observations of the strait showed it to be full of -floating ice; and in this vicinity they were brought to a halt by -the ice-pack near the shore at Cape John Barrow. Here the boats were -pulled up on the floe, and, as the thick sludge-ice was all around, -no open water in sight, and the supply of coal getting very low, the -prospect was gloomy in the extreme. When able to continue on their -course, the travelers were still greatly troubled by heavy fogs, and -while passing over a space of open water, abounding in floe-bergs -which could not be seen, they were in constant danger of being lost. -Notwithstanding all these obstacles, they pushed their way onward, -and in due time reached Cape Louis Napoleon, Cape Hawks, and -Princess Marie Bay, when they were again stopped by the floating -ice, and detained by the newly formed ice. - -In his desire to comply with the order as to weight of baggage, -Lockwood had left his seal-skin coat at Fort Conger, but this step -he afterward regretted, as the weather continued stormy, and he was -greatly exposed to the cold. To this was added the misfortune of -having a badly fitting seal-skin boot which gave him great pain, so -that he had to resort to a pair of moccasins. When the boats were -caught in floes and detained for days, the only exercise available -was that of walking over the level floes. Some of the men were wont -to march around, under the light of the moon, singing aloud their -wild and uncouth songs. When tired of walking, Lockwood would creep -into a cozy corner of the launch, and pore over a pocket copy of -Shakespeare which he had fortunately brought along; and then, after -getting into his sleeping-bag, his thoughts would wander far away -and find expression in such words as these: “What are they doing at -home? How often I think of the dear ones there! The dangers and -uncertainties ahead of us are only aggravated by the thoughts of the -concern felt by them on my account. Most of us have given up the -idea of getting home this fall.” - -On the 3d of September, while in the floe below Cape Hawks, -Lieutenant Greely held a consultation with Lockwood, Kislingbury, -Pavy, and Brainard, expressing the opinion that their situation was -critical, and that they were really working for their lives. One of -the suggestions was that the launch should be abandoned, and further -progress made in the smaller boats along the western shore of the -strait; but to this, Greely and the majority objected, still hoping -that they might yet be able to reach Littleton Island through a lead -or over the young ice. On the 6th the hunter Jans killed his fourth -seal, and was rewarded by a drink of rum. After five more days of -travel, and while approaching Cocked-Hat Island, there was a great -excitement caused by the report that one of the men had heard the -barking of dogs, whereupon guns were fired and a flag displayed; but -all the commotion ended in nothing. The tides were contrary, the -small boat was abandoned, and the outlook was very gloomy. The -faithful Esquimaux, Frederick, who had latterly been somewhat -unlucky as a hunter, now came to the front by killing a seal that -weighed six hundred pounds, receiving the usual drink of rum. On -this occasion Lockwood mentioned that he swallowed a cupful of the -seal’s blood, and found it somewhat tasteless. On the 5th of -September, the party after great labor came abreast of Victoria Head -and Cape Albert, and while drifting along on the floe the American -flag was hoisted over the launch, and the fire under the engine was -put out to save coal, Lockwood enjoying a little needed sleep. On -the 7th they came in sight of the coast extending from Alexander -Harbor to Cape Sabine, and the impossibility of proceeding in the -launch becoming apparent, it was decided to resort to sledge-travel, -two of the sledges to carry a boat each, and both of them to be -drawn by the men. When they were fully prepared for moving, it was -found that one of them weighed 1,700 pounds and the other 2,100 -pounds. Owing to the various difficulties which soon beset the -travelers, they were obliged to abandon one of the boats, whereby it -became necessary to retrace several sections of the journey for the -purpose of bringing on the extra supplies, thus adding greatly to -the fatigue of the men. Lockwood now expressed his doubts as to -whether he would live to write out his notes, and also his fears -that the floe upon which the party then were, might take them down -into Baffin’s Bay. Not only were they at the mercy of the floe, but -the currents were contrary, sludge-ice abundant, and their supply of -food reduced to seal-blubber, bread, and tea. At one time, strange -to say, their position in the straits was directly north of -Littleton Island, and nearer the Greenland coast than that of -Grinnell Land. It now seemed to Lockwood that there was nothing -ahead of them but starvation and death, and yet the men kept up -their spirits in a manner that greatly surprised him. One of the -floes upon which they had drifted for many days, when found to be -cracking in one or two places, caused the party to move upon another -nearer the shore, and in a short time the floe previously occupied -was entirely broken up. On the 29th of September, the floe on which -they were floating, finally touched another toward the west, and -that another connected with the shore, by which means they were -enabled to reach the land, very thankful to be in a place of -security once more. The locality was really a rock forming a -promontory between two glaciers, and thought to be about thirteen -miles directly south of Cape Sabine. To that place a reconnoitring -party was at once sent, but the cape could not be reached on account -of open water near it, and the party was compelled to return. In the -mean time, arrangements were made for building out of stones and ice -the necessary huts for protection during the coming winter, should -it be their fate to remain there. While this work was progressing, -it was decided that the daily rations would have to be reduced. -Lockwood expressed the opinion that they had only three chances for -their lives: first, the chance of finding an American _cache_ at -Cape Sabine; secondly, a chance of crossing the straits, here -thirty-five miles wide, when their provisions were gone; thirdly, -the chance of being able to kill enough game for their support -during the winter. A second effort was made by Rice and a party to -reach Cape Sabine, which was successful. They not only brought news -about the wreck of the Proteus, but also a copy of the Army Register -for 1883, in which appeared Lockwood’s name as a first lieutenant. -Rice also succeeded in discovering the English _cache_ with two -hundred and forty rations, the _cache_ left by the Neptune in 1882, -and the stores brought from the wreck of the Proteus in 1883, all of -which information was hailed with delight by the party. Among the -stores left by the Proteus, a newspaper slip was picked up, from -which was gathered the news that President Garfield had died; that -the Jeannette had been lost; and that serious apprehensions were -felt in the United States about the fate of the Greely Expedition. -This latter intelligence gave Lockwood great pain, seeming almost -prophetic, except in the remark “lying down under the great stars to -die!” and induced him to make this record: “This article gives me -great pain, because of the alarm and sorrow which must be felt by my -dear father and mother and sisters on my behalf. Should my ambitious -hopes be disappointed, and these lines only, meet the eyes of those -so dear, may they not in thought add to my many faults and failings -that of ingratitude or want of affection in not recording more -frequently my thoughts regarding them!” - -One of the results of the trip made by Rice to Cape Sabine was the -selection of a spot, between the cape and Cocked-Hat Island, for a -home during the approaching winter. Here, officers and men alike -laboring, a new hut was built, which was forthwith occupied by the -party, all the supplies being at once brought from the camp south of -Cape Sabine. The place where they now found themselves established, -Lieutenant Greely called Camp Clay, in honor of one of the party—a -grandson of Henry Clay—who had been attached to the expedition until -it reached Lady Franklin Bay, whence he returned home on account of -his health. As soon as the new hut was occupied, the announcement -was made that six of the party were on the sick list; but shortly -afterward, and notwithstanding the deplorable condition of affairs, -Lockwood recorded the following in his journal: “We are all now in -comparatively high spirits, and look forward to getting back to the -United States with a great deal of certainty. We shall have to live -on half-rations or less until April, and there will be shortness of -fuel. Many hardships are obvious, but we all feel sound again.” - -On the 23d of October, twelve of the party went from Camp Clay upon -a visit to Cape Sabine, and, while some of them opened the English -_cache_ at the south side of Payer Harbor, Lockwood built a cairn -there and deposited under it, among other things, the records of the -expedition, with a note in lead-pencil to the following effect: - -“_October 23, 1883._—This cairn contains the original records of the -Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, the private journal of Lieutenant -Lockwood, and a set of photographic negatives. The party is -permanently encamped at a point midway between Cape Sabine and -Cocked-Hat Island. All well. - - “J. B. Lockwood, - “_First Lieutenant Twenty-third Infantry._” - -On their way back to Camp Clay, Dr. Pavy met with an accident to one -of his feet, and, while most of the party went on, Lockwood and -Ellison remained behind to look after him. When night came on, they -lost their way, stumbling and floundering over the rubble-ice until -overcome by fatigue and hunger; but were revived by a limited mutton -stew on their arrival at the camp. One of the results to Lockwood of -his Samaritan conduct was an accident to one of his knees, which -gave him trouble for several days, and prevented his being as useful -as he desired in contributing to the comfort of the party. It was -about this time that Lieutenant Greely declared his intention of -reducing the rations, all assenting, so that they might last until -the 1st of March; and this fact, added to the discovery that some of -their meat was far more bony than it should have been, caused some -consternation. Cold, dampness, darkness, and hunger continued to be -their hourly and daily portion, the allowance of food being only -about one fourth of what they actually needed. - - - - - XVIII. - THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. - - -While the following pages will contain necessarily brief notices of -the life of the party during an entire winter, they must conclude -with the record of the great calamity which befell the band of -heroes. Shortly after they found themselves settled for a campaign -of idleness, as they expected it to be, Lockwood was again confined -to his sleeping-bag on account of an injury to his feet which had -not been properly protected; his discomforts being aggravated by the -reflection that both provisions and fuel were beginning to reach a -low-tide level. The constant hunger which was experienced by all -hands went far to make their circumstances dismal and depressing; -while the only entertainment that could be provided was the reading -aloud, by one of the men, of a story and some newspaper scraps which -Rice had picked up at Cape Sabine. A little excitement was afforded -by a lottery for the distribution of some clothing and two -mattresses which had been brought ashore from the Proteus, one of -the latter falling to the lot of Lockwood. And now came a -proposition for a sledge expedition, not to discover islands, -glaciers, fiords, and prominent capes, but to go after the abandoned -whale-boat which had floated down with the floe. This must be broken -up and used for fuel. Then followed another expedition, occupying -not less than eight days, to Cape Isabella, to obtain one hundred -pounds of preserved meat left there by the English. Feeling the want -of exercise, Lockwood occasionally took a long walk, and on one -occasion was so hungry when he returned, that he could not wait for -the regular evening meal, but fastened upon a lot of moldy potatoes -which had been abandoned, and with these filled his stomach, almost -expecting that the feast would cause his death. Some of the men went -still further, for, when a blue or a white fox was killed, even the -entrails of the animal were devoured. Food was the constant subject -of conversation with all of the party—what they would be able to -get, what they had enjoyed in former years at their distant homes, -and what they expected to enjoy after their return from the North. -Not only were their supplies getting lower day by day, but the only -warm thing they could now afford was a cup of tea, excepting on -Sunday, when they had a little rum with a bit of lemon. - -On the 25th of November, the sun disappeared from view, not to be -seen again until the following February, and now the gloom of the -time and place was greatly increased. On that day Lockwood recorded -in his journal the following: “I have intended writing a letter home -recounting my experiences since leaving Fort Conger, but so far the -discomforts of this life have prevented me. It is difficult to get -the blubber-lamp for more than a few minutes during the day, and -sometimes it can not be had at all. The lamp is blown out every -evening when we are ready to retire, which is generally about eight -o’clock.” - -Nor were their troubles in any way alleviated by the discovery that -one of the men had been seen, or was suspected of, visiting the -store-room to fill himself with food—especially despicable thieving. -The expedition to Cape Isabella resulted in finding the food which, -however, was abandoned in returning, as one of the men, Ellison, -became very sick, and had his hands, feet, and nose frozen. He was -brought home by a relief party in a helpless condition, Lockwood and -the other men of the party having completely worn themselves out by -exposure to the cold and hard work. As it was feared that the men -would become insane if they did not stop talking about food, -Lieutenant Greely began to deliver some lectures on the geography of -the United States and their natural productions; and this was -followed by miscellaneous discussions in regard to places for -business. Whistler, for example, praised the city of Independence, -in Kansas, as a splendid place; Long said he was going to set up a -restaurant at Ann Arbor in Michigan; Fredericks would follow suit at -Minneapolis in Minnesota; while Jewell counted upon a grocery-store -in Kansas. - -After commenting upon the terrible weather, Lockwood gave expression -to the following: “These short rations make me feel the cold -dreadfully. It is a constant effort to keep one’s hands and feet -comfortable, or even comparatively so. I find my spirits first up -and then down. Sometimes, when I think of the months before us of -this life of misery and suffering, I do not see how we can possibly -pull through. At other times I feel much more hopeful; but this is a -life of inexpressible misery.” - -For several days before the arrival of Thanksgiving-day, a great -feast was anticipated and on that day enjoyed, including a favorite -dish called by them “_son-of-a-gun_,” composed of bread, raisins, -milk, and a little blubber; nor did the exiles omit the reading of a -few chapters from the Bible. In the evening Lockwood entertained the -party with his experiences as a farmer at Annapolis, all being -interested, and he wound up by inviting the whole of the company to -assemble there and enjoy a dinner with him on the next -Thanksgiving-day, the said dinner to be composed in part of a roast -turkey stuffed with oysters and eaten with cranberries. In return -for this compliment, each one of the audience invited Lockwood to -partake with him of a feast after their return home, and expatiated -with great gusto on the dishes that he proposed to have served. The -promise made by Lynn was a roasted turkey; Ralston, hot hoe-cake; -Ellis, spare-rib; Long, pork-chops; Biederbick, old regiment dish -called buffers; Connell, Irish stew; Bender, a roasted pig; Snyder, -tenderloin-steak; Brainard, peaches and cream; Fredericks, black -cake and preserves; Saler, veal cutlets; Whistler, flapjacks and -molasses; Jewell, roasted oysters on toast; Rice, clam-chowder; -Israel, hashed liver; Gardiner, Virginia pone; Ellison, Vienna -sausage; Pavy, _pâté-de-fois-gras_; Henry, Hamburg steak; -Kislingbury, hashed turkey, chicken, and veal; Greely, Parker House -rolls, coffee, cheese, omelette, rice, and chicken curry. It was -after this jolly discussion of imaginary good things that the party -sat down to a stew of seal-blubber and nothing more. The next day -Lockwood partook of his first dish of seal-skin which he found as -hard to digest as it was difficult to swallow. - -On one occasion, when nearly all were asleep, a scratching noise was -heard upon the roof, and it was ascertained that a blue fox was -trying to make an entrance. The same night the ears of the sleepers -were saluted by a loud roar, caused by the ice moving down the -straits, a sound most terrible to human nerves. At one time, after -Lockwood had expressed his gratitude for enjoying warm feet for a -whole night, he resumed the subject of food, and then penned the -following: “My mind dwells constantly on the dishes of my childhood -at home. O my dear home, and the dear ones there! Can it be possible -I shall some day see them again, and that these days of misery will -pass away? My dear father, is he still alive? My dear mother and -sisters, Harry, and my nieces and brothers-in-law, how often do I -think of them! Only three days more to the top of the hill!” -(alluding to the longest night, or winter solstice). - -“As to my bread, I always eat it regretfully. If I eat it before -tea, I regret that I did not keep it; and if I wait until tea comes -and then eat it, I drink my tea rather hastily and do not get the -satisfaction out of the cold meat and bread I otherwise would. What -a miserable life, where a few crumbs of bread weigh so heavily on -one’s mind! It seems to be so with all the rest. All sorts of -expedients are tried to cheat one’s stomach, but with about the same -result. By way of securing the idea of a warm piece of meat, I -sometimes pour upon it a bit of my hot tea, but the effort proves -futile.” - -On the 21st of December, the day which Lockwood had long been -anticipating with pleasure, he expressed his gratification in these -words: “The top of the hill! the most glorious day of this dreary -journey through the valley of cold and hunger has at last come, and -is now nearly gone. Thank God, the glorious sun commences to return, -and every day gets lighter and brings him nearer! It is an augury -that we shall yet pull through all right.” In view of his ultimate -fate, how unutterably touching are these hopeful words! - -Before the close of that day, however, he made another record in his -journal, which forcibly illustrates their deplorable condition, as -follows: - -“Had a good fox-stew this evening. By a great effort I was able to -save one ounce of my bread and about two ounces of butter, for -Christmas. I shall make a vigorous effort to abstain from eating it -before then. Put it in charge of Biederbick as an additional -safeguard.” - -Among the entertainments enjoyed by the party were lectures by -Lieutenant Greely on the several States of the Union. After one of -them, on Louisiana, had been delivered, Lockwood added to it an -account of his trip from Baltimore to Texas, and that from New -Orleans to Cincinnati, all of which narrative was well received. - -For several days before Christmas, all were eagerly looking forward -to the grand forthcoming dinner and talking about it, a number of -them, like Lockwood, saving up a part of their scanty daily -allowance for the occasion. Lockwood mentioned that when he proposed -to exchange the promise of a fine Christmas-dinner on their return -home for a piece of dog-biscuit delivered at once, he found no one -ready to accept his _liberal_ offer. The Christmas-dinner was -similar to that on Thanksgiving-day; various songs were sung, and, -at the close of the feast, hearty cheers were given for Lieutenant -Greely, Corporal Ellison, Rice the photographer, and the two cooks. - -On Christmas-night all the party enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and the -next day there was much talk about the distant homes and friends. -Lockwood was greatly pleased to learn that his comrades had formed a -high opinion of his father from what Greely and he had occasionally -told them; and, while describing the family reunions in Washington, -he was affected to tears for the first time during his Northern -campaign, excepting when Rice had come from Esquimaux Point with the -Garlington records, when his tears were the result of gratitude. - -In a region where eating had become pre-eminently the chief end of -man, it is not strange that the business of marketing should have -become popular. How it was managed may be gathered from the -following paragraph: “To-day has been a market-day, everybody -trading rations—bread for butter, meat for bread, bread for soup, -etc. A great deal of talking done, but not many solid trades made. I -traded about half of my to-morrow’s _son-of-a-gun_ for about eight -ounces of bread; then I gave Brainard one ounce and a half of butter -for two dog-biscuits, but my trading did not prove profitable.” - -As for New-Year’s-day, it came and departed without any special -demonstrations: the _son-of-a-gun_ was enjoyed by all parties; many -of the ice-bound hearts were warmed by memories of home; and Greely -and Lockwood had a long talk about the condition of affairs, and the -prospects for the future. - -The business of trading among the explorers being discouraged, did -not long continue, but was succeeded by some other importations from -civilization, viz., the taking of property of other people without -leave or license. A report was made to Lieutenant Greely that some -one had taken a quarter of a pound of bacon, left in the stearine by -the cook; also that a barrel of bread had been broken open and two -pounds taken away. This proved that the bears and the foxes were not -the only thieves to be found in the Arctic regions. The man -suspected of the deed was closely watched and had a narrow escape -from being properly punished. - -On the 10th of January, the case of poor Corporal Ellison was again -brought up for discussion and prompt action. It had been hoped that -his frosted feet would be restored to their normal condition, but -this was not to be, for they were both amputated by Nature, and two -of his fingers besides. Strange to say, this was accomplished -without his being aware of what was taking place, so little vitality -remained in these parts. When we recall the sufferings of this man, -in connection with his surroundings and his distance from the -comforts of home, we must conclude that the stories of fiction can -not eclipse the wonders of actual life and experience. What a -combination there of cold and hunger, bodily pain and mental -anguish, darkness and perpetual storms! - -As we pass over the daily records made by Lockwood in his journal at -this particular time, we find food and the dangers of starvation to -be the absorbing themes. It seems strange that, in a land of ice and -snow, there should have been any apprehensions about a sufficient -supply of drinking-water; but this was the case, and the fact came -home to the exiles when they found that their supply of tea had to -be reduced to half a cup per man. Good water was not only scarce, -but could not be obtained from the neighboring lake, their sole -dependence, without great toil in chopping away the ice. They had -the ice, of course, but there was not sufficient fuel to reduce it -to a liquid. - -As they could keep warm only by remaining in their sleeping-bags, -the manner of visiting each other was simply to exchange -sleeping-bags; and thus, when Lockwood wanted to have a talk with -Greely, one of the companions of the latter would exchange bags with -the visitor. - -On the 18th of January, another cloud was thrown upon the party by -the death of Cross. He died of a kind of heart-disease, induced, it -was supposed, by intemperance in drinking. For several hours before -his death he uttered low moans which seemed a kind of echo from the -grinding of the far-off ice-fields. His remains were enveloped in -coffee-sacks and an American flag, and deposited in a stony grave -near the neighboring lake, the only funeral remarks having been made -by Lieutenant Lockwood. - -On the 21st, Lockwood had a talk with Greely about his own health; -said he was very weak, and had been so for two weeks, but had not -mentioned it for fear of depressing the men; he could not account -for it, and concluded by saying that if he should not be well or -better when the time came to make the contemplated passage of the -straits, he desired to be left behind with his share of the rations, -and then be sent for from Littleton Island. To this Greely replied -that he would never harbor such an idea for a single moment; that he -would never abandon a living soul. - -On the 2d of February, Rice and Jans started to test the passage of -the straits, hoping to reach Littleton Island, where they expected -to find some provisions or a relief-ship. But, alas! they were -stopped by open water, and not successful, though they traveled -about fifty miles up and down the floes, and were absent four days. -Owing to the bad weather, they did not even get a glimpse of the -coast of Greenland. All were greatly disappointed, and some felt -that death from starvation was staring them in the face; and yet -they found some relief in the increased light preceding the -reappearance of the sun. Lockwood, who now became despondent and -apathetic, endeavored to peer into the future, and wondered whether -his bones were really to be left in the Arctic regions. He mourned -over the fact that he had not been as good a son and as kind a -brother as he might have been, and hoped that the dear ones at home -would remember him as he wished to be, and not as he had been. As to -the end, he hoped it would come soon, whatever it might be; and he -declared himself possessed by a feeling of indifference to hunger, -cold, and gloom, “all of them enemies of existence.” After mourning -over the approaching fate of Ellison, he recorded these touching -words: “How often I think of the dear ones at home, the Sunday -evening reunions, and all the bright and happy pictures that present -themselves! My dear, good old father! may he look with charity on my -many short-comings! My dear mother and sisters and Harry, -brothers-in-law, and nieces! I trust that they are well and happy, -and, if I do not pull through this, will learn to look on my memory -kindly!” An allusion that he now made to his companions in suffering -was to this effect: “The party presents a bold front, and is not -wanting in spirit. If our fate is the worst, I do not think we shall -disgrace the name of Americans and of soldiers.” The attempt of Rice -to cross the straits to Littleton Island was heroic in the extreme, -and his pluck was further exemplified by a proposition that he -submitted to Greely to make a second effort to cross the straits, -and that, too, unattended by any companion; but the idea was not -sanctioned. - -On the 22d of February, strange to say, a raven made its appearance -in the vicinity of the Arctic camp, but was not killed, although it -might have been enjoyed at the forthcoming dinner. It must have been -a great relief to some of the party that it disappeared without -uttering its dreadful cry, “_Nevermore!_” as translated by the poet, -Poe. - -On the 27th, not knowing what might happen to him, Lockwood wrote -the following in his journal: “The chronometer in my pocket is the -one used on the trip to 83° 24´ and on all my trips in this region. -My intention is to buy it, but, in case I do not get back, I would -have it purchased and kept in the family.” - -When the sun first made its appearance above the horizon, as it -carried his mind away to his far-distant home, he gave expression to -this emotion: “O God! how many years of my life would I give to be -there!” - -Every day, observations were made from neighboring elevations to -ascertain the condition of the straits separating them from the -Greenland coast which was distinctly visible in clear weather, -hoping without hope to see it frozen over from shore to shore; but -the lateness of the season precluded all reasonable expectation of -such a result, and the daily reports of open water were depressing -in the extreme. On the 13th of March, the announcement was made that -the supplies of coffee, chocolate, and canned vegetables were all -exhausted, and that henceforth they would have to depend almost -entirely on pemmican, bacon, bread, and tea, all of which, though -given in one-third rations only, would not last for more than a -month, thus leaving them without supplies to cross the straits in -the event of a satisfactory freeze. In view of all these -circumstances, it is impossible to imagine how they could quietly -continue their preparations for a journey to the supposed goal at -Littleton Island. Surely the hope which inspired the sufferers was -eternal and supreme in its strength and pathos. “The straits,” said -Lockwood, “are open, and I see no prospect of their freezing so that -we can get across. Of course, I hope to the contrary; for this means -death, if we can find no game here.” On a subsequent day he writes -as follows: “We look to the end with equanimity, and the spirits of -the party, in spite of the prospect of a miserable death, are -certainly wonderful. I am glad as each day comes to an end. It -brings us nearer the end of this life, whatever that end is to be.” - -On the 23d of March, the last of the regular fuel was exhausted, and -the food was so nearly gone that the men actually began to collect -their seal-skin clothing and foot-gear for any emergency that might -happen. Game was not only scarce, but the men were getting almost -too weak to endure a hunt. To avoid long tramps, which were sure to -be unsuccessful, they turned their attention to shrimp-fishing, but, -as one man could only get three pounds in one day, the prospect in -this direction was not hopeful. - -During the month of March and the early part of April, there was -nothing done by the able-bodied members of the party but to try to -secure some game, the only incidents occurring to interrupt the -monotony being the deaths of the Esquimaux Frederick Christiansen, -and Sergeant Lynn. The former had been complaining for a week or -more, but nobody thought him in danger, and he died unexpectedly. -Lockwood’s tribute to him was to this effect: “He was a good man, -and I felt a great affection for him. He constantly worked hard in -my service, and never spared himself on our sledge-trips. His death -makes me feel very sorrowful.” He was buried by the side of Cross, -near the lake. The death of Lynn was also unexpected. He fully -appreciated his condition, and gave some directions regarding his -last wishes. He was much liked, and highly spoken of by all. After -the burial service had been read at the house by Lieutenant Greely, -his remains were also placed by the lake-side with those of Cross -and the Esquimaux. - -The drama was about to close, the curtain already falling upon the -band of heroes: - - “And their hearts, though stout and brave, - Still, like muffled drums were beating - Funeral marches to the grave.” - -The phantom of Starvation, which had long been following them over -the ice and snow, and dallying with their hopes and fears as they -lay in their comfortless camps, had now become a terrible reality, -determined to assert all his powers. Three of his victims were -already under the snow, and were soon followed by several others, -including the one who had directed them in many of their duties and -befriended them in trouble, and whose honored name, attached to a -noted island and a famed headland in the Arctic world, will be -forever remembered with pride and affection by his countrymen. - -The concluding paragraph in Lieutenant Lockwood’s journal was -written on the 7th of April, 1884, and alludes to the sickness and -death of his two comrades. In the last allusion that he makes to -himself, he speaks of his excessive weakness, and of the fact that -he could not rise from his sleeping-bag without great difficulty. -His death occurred two days afterward. - -Having been permitted to examine an elaborate and interesting -journal kept by Sergeant Brainard, a few notices relating to the -closing days and the death of Lieutenant Lockwood are reproduced, as -follows: - -_January 12, 1884._—Lieutenant Lockwood is very weak. He has been -saving the greater portion of his bread and meat for several days, -and talks to himself about food. He frequently looks intently at the -lamp, and requests that it be kept burning all night. - -_January 20th._—Lieutenant Lockwood is growing weaker and weaker. He -said to me a few days ago, “Brainard, I have lost my grip,” meaning -that he had lost his last hope of life. - -_January 24th._—Lieutenant Lockwood seems to be in better spirits -to-day. - -_January 28th._—The doctor said to-day that if Lieutenant Lockwood -did not brace up, he would never recover. - -_January 30th._—Lieutenant Lockwood is growing steadily weaker, and -talks but seldom now. I wish he would try to be more cheerful. - -_February 15th._—Lieutenant Lockwood is better, but does not improve -so rapidly as I would wish. - -_April 4th._—The rations of Lieutenant Lockwood and Linn have been -increased to one fourth of a dovekie each per day. - -_April 5th._—I am afraid that Lieutenant Lockwood and Linn will soon -follow the faithful Esquimaux, who has just died. They can not, or -they will not, eat shrimps any more. Although they are both given an -extra allowance of dovekie, it is not sufficient to restore them. - -_April 7th._—Lieutenant Lockwood and Jewell will soon follow Linn. -They are very weak and failing rapidly. - -_April 8th_.—Lieutenant Lockwood fell in a faint in the alley-way, -and much difficulty was experienced in resuscitating him. - -_April 9th._—Lieutenant Lockwood became unconscious at an early hour -this morning, and at 4.20 P. M. he breathed his last. His end was -painless and without a struggle. This will be a sad and unexpected -blow to his family, who evidently idolized him. To me it is also a -sorrowful event. He had been my companion during long and eventful -excursions, and my feelings toward him were akin to those of a -brother. Biederbick, who was with him at the last moment, and I -straightened his limbs and prepared his remains for burial. It is -the saddest duty I have ever been called on to perform, and I hope I -may never experience the like again. A few days prior to his death -he had spoken of writing to his family, but, owing to weakness, had -deferred the matter until too late. - -_April 10th._—The last sad rites were performed over the remains of -our late comrade, and he was interred with the others on Cemetery -Ridge, Lieutenant Greely reading the Episcopal service. - -To the above may be added the following remark made by Brainard in -regard to his friend Lockwood: “The lieutenant was buried in an -officer’s blouse. It affected me deeply to pass his grave, as I -thought of the leader of our little party which had carried the -Stars and Stripes beyond the English Jack; but this feeling soon -wore away, and, as I had so many other horrible things to occupy my -mind, I became somewhat indifferent.” - -But wholly indifferent he could not be, even when he saw two men in -one sleeping-bag, one of them a corpse, and the other too weak to -assist in pulling the body out for burial. - -Another and most touching reference made by Brainard to the -burial-place of his friend Lockwood occurs in his journal under date -of May 31, 1884, and is as follows: “In my daily journeys across -Cemetery Ridge, it was but natural at first that my reflections -should be sad and gloomy. Here lie my departed comrades, and to -their left is the vacant space where, in a few days, my own remains -will be deposited if sufficient strength remain to those who may -survive me. The brass buttons on Lieutenant Lockwood’s blouse, worn -bright by the flying gravel, protruded through the scanty covering -of earth which our depleted strength barely enabled us to place over -him. At first these dazzling buttons would awaken thoughts of those -bright days spent at Fort Conger, of the half-forgotten scene of his -death, and of the universal sorrow that was felt at his departure. -But later my own wretched circumstances served to counteract these -feelings, and I would pass and repass this place without emotion, -and almost with indifference.” - -The supply of food had been almost entirely exhausted during the -first few days of April, and it was impossible to obtain any game or -rations from distant caches. An effort made by Rice to secure -certain provisions that had been abandoned on a former expedition in -order to save the life of Ellison when frozen, resulted in his own -death, breathing his last in the arms of Fredericks, his only -companion, who buried him in a lonely, ice-made grave. Nor were the -horrors of the situation lessened by the discovery that the man -Henry had been guilty of stealing their food, for which, after ample -warning, under orders from Lieutenant Greely, he was summarily shot, -according to the law of self-preservation. His remains were not -deposited in the cemetery, but by themselves in a place near by. - -The total number of deaths out of the twenty-five composing the -complete party of explorers was nineteen, and, while twelve of them -were buried at Camp Clay, the remainder, like the lamented Rice, -were buried elsewhere or where they died. Jans was lost in his -kyack. During a discussion that occurred, about the final -disposition of the dead, Lieutenant Greely expressed the wish that -the remains of his men might be left undisturbed. They had died, he -said, beneath Arctic skies. Arctic desolation witnessed their -sufferings, heard their cries of anguish. They are buried in Arctic -soil. Let them lie where they fell. Lockwood told me that he wanted -to rest forever on the field of his work. Why disturb them? Why not -respect their wishes? - -Before closing this chapter it seems proper that an allusion should -be made to alleged cannibalism at Camp Clay. The writer of this was -informed by Sergeant Brainard that such might have been the case, -but that not a single one of the survivors had ever known or -witnessed anything of the kind. So far as Lieutenant Lockwood was -concerned, it was positively established, by unimpeachable -testimony, that his remains were not mutilated in the least degree. -When carefully carried, with all the others, on board the ship that -was to bring them to the United States, his remains were perfect in -every respect, and of this his father has the assurance of those who -saw them. - -In view of the fact that Sergeant David L. Brainard accompanied -Lieutenant Lockwood in all his explorations, it seems only proper -that a notice of his life should appear in this volume. He was born -in Norway, Herkimer County, New York, December 21, 1856, his parents -having come from Massachusetts. His father was of French extraction -and his mother of English stock. He attended a district school until -his eleventh year, when he removed with his family to Freetown, -Cortland County, New York, where he attended the State Normal -School. On the 18th of September, 1876, he enlisted at New York city -in the regular army, being assigned to Company L, Second Cavalry, -then stationed at Fort Ellis, in Montana Territory. He joined his -troops late that year after an arduous journey of five hundred miles -on horseback from Corinne, Utah. In the following spring he -participated in the Indian campaigns under General Miles, along the -Yellowstone River and its tributaries, and was wounded in the face -while in action with the Sioux, at Muddy Creek, Montana, May 7, -1877. In August of the same year, he was selected as one of four men -to act as escort to General Sherman and party in their tour through -the National Park. In October following, he was made a corporal, and -in July, 1879, was promoted to be a sergeant. He was frequently in -charge of parties in the field on detached service, and was -intrusted with important missions by his commanding officers. -Lieutenant Doane, Second Cavalry, recommended him for detail on the -Howgate Polar Expedition in May, 1880, Brainard visiting Washington -for that purpose. The enterprise having been abandoned, he was -ordered back to his regiment at Fort Assiniboin, on Milk River. -Early in the spring of 1881, Lieutenant Greely requested his detail -on the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, and, on his arrival in -Washington, appointed him first sergeant of the expedition, which -position he held during the three years of Arctic service. On the -1st of August, 1884, he was transferred, with the rank of sergeant, -to the United States Signal Corps, having always acquitted himself -with ability and honor as a man, a soldier, and an explorer. - - - - - XIX. - THE WOEFUL RETURN. - - -Without stopping to discuss the action of Congress or the Government -officials in regard to sending relief to the Greely Expedition, the -writer desires to mention that the names of Senator Joseph R. Hawley -and Representative E. John Ellis, because of their manly action in -Congress in behalf of the suffering explorers, are far more -deserving of places on the charts of the North than those of many -others which have thus been honored. In 1882 a vessel called the -Neptune, Captain William Sopp, was chartered at St. John’s, -Newfoundland, and with a full supply of provisions was dispatched -for Lady Franklin Bay, but failing in her mission returned to -Newfoundland _without leaving_ any of her supplies in the North, but -bringing them all back to St. John’s! In 1883 the steamer Proteus, -Captain Richard Pike, was rechartered at St. John’s, and with a full -supply of provisions sailed for Discovery Harbor, but was crushed in -the ice near Cape Sabine, her crew succeeding in landing in a safe -place a small part of her cargo, some of which was subsequently -utilized by the Greely party. - -In 1884 a third rescuing expedition was organized and dispatched for -the relief of the Greely exploring party. That expedition was -composed of a squadron of three ships, the Thetis, the Bear, and the -Alert, under the command of Commander Winfield S. Schley, of the -United States Navy. They left St. John’s on the 12th of May, and, -after the usual tribulations along the western coast of Greenland, -reached the vicinity of Cape Sabine, and discovered the Greely party -at Camp Clay, on Sunday, the 22d of June, seventy-three days after -the death of Lieutenant Lockwood. The discovery was then made that, -out of the twenty-five men connected with the Greely Expedition only -seven were alive, viz., Lieutenant Greely, Brainard, Biederbick, -Fredericks, Long, Connell, and Ellison. As soon as the survivors -could be relieved and transferred to the ships, the remains of the -dead were exhumed with care and taken to the ships for -transportation to the United States, excepting the remains of -Esquimaux Frederick, which were left at Disco. - -As the pictures presented by the survivors lying in their camp, -dazed with suffering and surprise and a joy they could not manifest, -and the incidents they subsequently narrated of intense suffering, -can only prove heart-rending to the reader, they will not now be -dwelt upon. The departure of the ships, with their strange list of -dead and living passengers, seemed to enhance the gloom which filled -the sky and rested upon the sea. Their condition was so deplorable, -that a delay of a very few days would have left none to tell the -tale of woe and suffering. At least two could not have lived -twenty-four hours. That this time was gained, under the stimulus of -the twenty-five thousand dollars reward, appears from an article -written by an officer of the Relief Expedition and published in the -“Century” of May, 1885, as follows: - -“The reward of twenty-five thousand dollars that Congress had -offered for the first information of Greely had incited the whalers -to take risks that they otherwise would have shunned. They had -expressed a determination to strive for it, and were ever on the -alert for a chance to creep northward. The Relief Squadron was -determined, on its part, that the whalers should not secure the -first information, and were equally zealous in pushing northward. It -was this rivalry (a friendly one, for our relations with the -whaling-captains were of the pleasantest nature) that hurried us -across Melville Bay and brought us together within sight of Cape -York. It had been thought possible that Greely or an advance party -might be there.” - -Mr. Ellis proposed in the last session of Congress that, as the -reward had not been spent, yet had contributed to the rescue, it -should be appropriated to building, at Washington, a monument to the -dead. - -The temporary halt at Disco Harbor was saddened by the death of -Ellison, after prolonged sufferings, as if his noble spirit was -determined to join its departed comrades in their passage to the -skies from that Northern Land of Desolation. - -In the official record of the Relief Expedition, Commander Schley -makes an allusion to the important part taken by Lieutenant Lockwood -in the Greely Expedition which should be repeated in this place. -After submitting certain papers which had been found in a cairn at -Breevort Island, he says: “It was a wonderful story. It told how the -expedition, during its two years at Lady Franklin Bay, had marked -out the interior of Grinnell Land, and how Lockwood had followed the -northern shore of Greenland, and had reclaimed for America the honor -of ‘the farthest north.’” - -On Thursday, the 17th of July, the Relief Expedition arrived at St. -John’s, Newfoundland, where they were kindly welcomed, and the -tidings of their arrival promptly telegraphed to the anxious -multitudes in the United States. Complete arrangements were made for -the continuous voyage of the living and the dead to their several -homes. - -In a dispatch which the Secretary of the Navy sent to Commander -Schley, on the day of his return, he said, “Preserve tenderly the -remains of the heroic dead,” and that order was duly obeyed. They -were placed in metallic caskets, and the squadron sailed from St. -John’s on the 26th of July, arriving at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, -on the 2d of August. As the first duty after a battle is to bury the -dead, it is to be regretted that this was not done before the -display was made at Portsmouth. It was not thus that England -received her victorious fleet from Trafalgar, bearing home the -remains of the dead hero Nelson. The mutilated remains of the dead -should first have been delivered over to the bleeding hearts that -awaited them. While so many unurned corpses remained in the ships, -the celebration was but a ghastly jubilee. Requiems should have been -chanted before pæans were sung. The only casket removed from the -ships at Portsmouth was that containing the remains of Sergeant -Jewell, who was a native of New Hampshire. The squadron now sailed -for New York, and on its arrival, the 8th of August, was received -with great enthusiasm. Here the remains of the dead were delivered -to the custody of the army commander at Governor’s Island, by whom -the final dispositions were made. The remains of Lieutenant Lockwood -were forwarded to Annapolis and placed under a military guard, in -the church of St. Anne, where the young hero had been baptized, -confirmed, and received his first communion. The funeral was of a -military character, and the attendance was very large, comprehending -all the naval, military, and civil organizations of the city. -Recalling the words of the poet Whittier, many of the mourners -present must have felt their special force, when he says: - - “I know not what the future hath - Of marvel or surprise, - Assured alone that life and death - _His_ mercy underlies.” - -The remains of the hero lie in the beautiful cemetery of the Naval -Academy, overlooking the place of his birth and the scenes of his -childhood. An appropriate tomb was erected over them, bearing this -inscription: - - JAMES BOOTH LOCKWOOD, - LIEUTENANT UNITED STATES ARMY, - Born at Annapolis, Maryland, - October 9, 1852, - Died at Cape Sabine, - April 9, 1884. - -“The sufferings of this present time are not worthy to be compared -with the glory that shall be revealed in us.” - -On the day that the rector of St. Anne’s church, Rev. William S. -Southgate, gave notice of the time of the burial, he made the -following remarks: - -“One of the truths of the Bible, taught us by the Church, the most -difficult to receive and to hold practically, is that expressed in -the words of the Collect for the last week: ‘O God, whose -never-failing providence ordereth all things both in heaven and on -earth.’ - -“The difficulty arises from the fact that in so many cases we can -not discover either the justice or the mercy or even the expediency -of that ordering. - -“And yet at times we get a glimpse of light that reveals much of the -fitness and beauty of this divine ordering of events. Here is an -example before us. There is a peculiar appropriateness in the -ordering of events that brings James Booth Lockwood here to be -buried. Born in this parish, baptized here, confirmed in St. Anne by -Bishop Whittingham, April 19, 1868, he received his first communion -at this altar on Christmas-day of the same year. The rector of the -parish, who presented him for confirmation and administered to him -the holy communion, has just been called suddenly to his rest. In -the midst of untiring labors the call found them both at the post of -duty, and both were taken away while in the performance of that -duty. But there was something peculiarly sad in the circumstances -and mode of young Lockwood’s death—circumstances due partly to the -nature of the work in which he was engaged, partly to the fault of -others. But what matters it how or when he died, if found at Death’s -call doing the duty assigned to him? - -“One of the earliest of the adventurers along this coast, then as -little known to the world as the Arctic regions are now to us, when -his little ship was overwhelmed by the stormy sea, comforted the -frightened and trembling helmsman with the assuring words, ‘My -child, heaven is as near to us by sea as by land.’ And so what -matters it where we die and how we die, so long as we are reconciled -to God, and are faithfully fulfilling our calling? May God give us -grace so to live that we may never be afraid to die in any place or -in any manner!” - -That the story and the fate of James B. Lockwood excited a profound -sentiment of sorrow and admiration throughout the entire country was -manifested in many ways, and a notice of some of them will form an -appropriate conclusion to this _in-memoriam_ volume. Among the first -tributes of honor and affection was the following official order -published by the colonel of his regiment, announcing his death to -the military associates of the young soldier: - - [Order, No. 46.] - Headquarters Twenty-third Infantry, - Fort Wayne, Mich., _July 25, 1884_. - - Another name is added to the list of our honored dead. The - official announcement is received from the War Department of the - death of First-Lieutenant James B. Lockwood, at Camp Clay, near - Cape Sabine, Smith’s Sound, Arctic regions, April 9, 1884. He was - assigned to this regiment as second lieutenant, October 1, 1873, - and promoted first lieutenant March 15, 1883. He served with - distinction throughout Arizona, Nebraska, Kansas, the Indian - Territory, and Colorado, always performing with zeal and - thoroughness the various and complex duties that usually fall to - the lot of the young officer. In 1881 he turned from the arduous - duties and savage warfare of frontier life to face still greater - hardship and danger, and finally to lay down his life in those - frozen and inhospitable regions which have proved the sepulchre of - so many heroes before him. - - Lieutenant Lockwood was a young officer of great promise in his - profession; of a noble and exalted character, his fine mind tended - constantly to the investigation of scientific truths. When the - privations, the suffering, and the achievements of the “Lady - Franklin Bay Expedition” are fully related, higher authority will - doubtless pay a more fitting tribute to the worth, the fortitude, - and the matchless courage of an officer who, in Arctic - exploration, has carried the American flag to a point in advance - of that of any other nation. - - His reward is an imperishable fame, which he sought with even - greater resolution than leads the soldier to the cannon’s mouth. - The pleasant smile and manly form of our comrade are lost to us - forever, but his name and memory will be always green in our - hearts. - - Officers of the regiment will wear the usual badge of mourning for - thirty days. - - By order of Colonel Black: - T. G. M. Smith, - _First Lieutenant and Adjutant Twenty-third Infantry._ - - -When the news of Lockwood’s fate was known at Fort Leavenworth, -Kansas, arrangements were at once made, by those who had known and -loved him there, to erect a tablet to his memory in the handsome -post chapel at that place. When completed it was placed in a -conspicuous position, and bore the following inscription: - - In Memoriam - JAMES B. LOCKWOOD, - FIRST LIEUTENANT TWENTY-THIRD INFANTRY, - A MEMBER OF THE - Greely Polar Expedition, - Died at Cape Sabine, Grinnell Land, - April 9, 1884. - - -This tablet was erected chiefly at the expense of Lockwood’s old -regiment. To one of the officers General Lockwood presented a sword -that had belonged to his son, and, in his acknowledgment, that -officer made this remark: “As a friend of your son, I shall take -pride and comfort from having in my possession the sword of a -friend, who lived so nobly and died so honorably. Should you desire -it to come back to your family when I have joined your son, I hope -you will tell me so, and I will provide accordingly.” Among those -who earnestly co-operated with this gentleman in erecting the tablet -was one who wrote to his fellow-officer as follows: “No two people, -outside of Lockwood’s own blood relations, loved him more than you -and I. And yet I do not know that I am right in calling his end -untimely. He died, as he had ever lived, in the discharge of his -duty, and I imagine, when the records of the expedition become more -known, it will be seen that his duty was well done to the end. He -was a man, and has died like one. God grant that when our time comes -it may find us, too, in the discharge of our duty!” - -During Lieutenant Greely’s sojourn in Portsmouth, when on his way -home, and while yet too feeble to use the pen, he dictated the -following letter to General Lockwood: - - Portsmouth, N. H., _August 9, 1884_. - - My dear General Lockwood: Had I not seen Commander Sigsbee, and - given to him such information as he wished, and as I knew would be - most important to you in regard to your son, I should have - attempted an earlier letter to you. I am still unable to write to - you by my own hand. As I told Commander Sigsbee, James died from - water around the heart, induced by insufficient nutrition. His - last days were quiet and painless. He did his whole duty as a - soldier and an officer. His loyalty to truth, fidelity, and zeal - could always be relied upon by me. His unvarying kindness, his - gentleness, his deep interest in and toward the men of the - expedition indicated a nature thoroughly imbued with the essential - and fundamental principles of Christianity, and won for him their - good-will, confidence, and affection. I feel that you and Mrs. - Lockwood may well be proud of such a son. His daily conversation - during the past winter told us how much he loved his parents, and - how deep and close were the bonds of affection which united him to - his sisters and brother. He seemed to feel that he had not done - full justice to the many and great advantages that you had given - him, and hoped to make amends in the future. His innate modesty in - this, as in other matters, I think did scant justice to his true - merits. I write by Mrs. Greely’s hand—she joins me in sympathy and - condolence. I feel that this letter insufficiently informs you - regarding James. From day to day he intended to write you, but - delayed too long. His diary, in short-hand, was kept up, I - believe, to the day preceding his death. - Sincerely yours, - A. W. Greely. - -Another letter from Portsmouth, written by Sergeant D. L. Brainard -in answer to some inquiries made by General Lockwood, was as -follows: - - Portsmouth, N. H., _September 4, 1884_. - - _General_ H. H. Lockwood. - - Dear Sir: Your letter of the 22d ult., requesting information of - the missing effects of your dear son, which had been committed to - my care, is just received. . . . The effects in question, - excepting the ring and coins, I turned over to Major Greely before - leaving this city in August. The two latter articles I afterward - found and gave to Mrs. Peck, who, with her husband, called on me - at the Parker House, in Boston. The setting of the ring, I am - sorry to say, was not found after his death, although diligent - search was made. He had spoken of it but a few days before his - death, and expressed great concern for its safety. It was supposed - to be suspended from his neck in a small parcel, but search - revealed nothing. The compass was among the effects I transferred - to Lieutenant Greely, as were also two pencils, his pipe, spoon, - knife, etc. With reference to the inner life of your son, do not - feel any concern. Although not an open professor of any particular - creed, he followed closely the golden rule during my acquaintance - with him. When I reach Washington I shall be glad to call on you. - In the mean time I shall willingly answer any question with regard - to his life in the frigid zone that you may desire to ask. Place - no reliance on any of the adverse newspaper reports that are - occasionally seen reflecting on his conduct; they are not worthy - of a moment’s thought. Hoping that the articles have reached you - in safety ere this, I am, very sincerely yours, - - D. L. Brainard. - -Another and a very handsome letter sent to General Lockwood by an -officer of the army, who had long known the son, was as follows: - - “San Antonio, Fla., _July 25, 1884_. - - “My dear General: The newspapers tardily convey to me the news of - your son’s heroic death. I can not express to you how much both my - wife and myself were affected by this intelligence. I knew your - son from his entry into the Twenty-third Infantry in 1873 until I - was promoted to the Twenty-second in 1879, and formed so high an - estimate of his sterling soldierly character that it is - inexpressibly sad to think of his career being cut short at so - early an age. But, though early, he has nevertheless left his mark - on the scientific record of the country—a record which can never - perish while the frozen North continues to hold the secrets he has - more nearly penetrated than any other explorer of those regions. - This must be, my dear general, some consolation to you, though I - well know that it can not wholly atone for the loss of your noble - son. But, as time passes, this reflection may soften your paternal - grief. - - “A life-work need not extend to the allotted threescore years and - ten. In the providence of God it often compasses a much smaller - period of time; when it is accomplished, God calls the worker - home. - - “Who shall measure the work your son accomplished in the examples - he gave of fidelity to duty, of heroic fortitude? How many - fainting souls in the future, reading of his devotion, will be - strengthened to go forward in the paths marked out for them! That - your grief may be in time assuaged by these reflections is the - prayer devoutly offered by your sincere friend.” - -Many private letters of condolence and sympathy were written to the -parents of the deceased, by personal friends and others, some of -which serve to illustrate the character of the departed. One of -these friends wrote as follows: - -“The tender regard and sincere love I had for James prompts me to -write to you and express my heart-felt sorrow in losing him. We were -dear friends for years, and a more upright and honorable man never -lived, and our regiment has lost a member who can never be replaced, -and the memory of him who died far away from us can never be -forgotten.” - -In another letter a friend wrote as follows: - -“Dr. B——, U. S. A., one of James’s most intimate and best friends, -desires me to say that, of all the men he knew, James was to him far -dearer than any other. As for myself, I shall always hold James dear -to my heart, and hope some day, when all things pass away, to meet -him in that happy land where our loved ones are gone.” - -In another letter occurs the following: - -“Lockwood was among the best young officers of the regiment. Very -attentive to duty, and correct in habits, his promise of usefulness -was unusually great. I hope that the knowledge of duty well -performed, and under the most trying circumstances, may in some -degree ameliorate your great grief.” - -Another friend writes: - -“I but echo the feelings of all in the Twenty-third Infantry who -knew your son, in saying that your great loss is partly theirs. His -kindly and generous impulses, his sterling integrity, and his -thoroughness as an officer and a gentleman, secured and retained for -him the substantial good-will and friendship of all. And while we -may grieve at the mournful end of his career, yet this feeling is -somewhat neutralized in the melancholy satisfaction of knowing that -he died on the field of honor.” - -In another letter from one who had been in the army and on the staff -of General Lockwood at Accomac, Va., occurs the following most -admirable and appropriate passage: “I do believe, dear general, that -all is well with your son. Standing where no human footstep had ever -trod before, seeing what no eye had ever before beheld, alone amid -the awful silence of that frozen deep—alone with God—there must have -been communings with the Holy One of more import to James than all -else besides. And at the last day you will again see your son in -glory, wearing the crown of those made perfect through suffering.” - -Besides the many letters written by personal friends, there were -others from perfect strangers, who had either served under General -Lockwood in the army, or been especially interested in the fate of -the youthful hero. - -Among the strangers who wrote letters of condolence was the Rev. -William E. Griffis, D. D., of Schenectady, N. Y., who had preached a -sermon on the conquests of peace, and in which he made the following -allusion to Lieutenant Lockwood: “The laurels that repose on the -memory of Lieutenant Lockwood are better than battle-honors or -wreaths after bloody victories.” It was his opinion that the Arctic -secret would yet be won; and that Lockwood and his brother heroes -were doing the will of God as explorers in the far North. - -On the 20th of July, 1884, the Rev. Dr. John S. Lindsay, of St. -John’s Church, in Georgetown, delivered a sermon in which he alluded -to the return of the Greely Expedition, and especially to Lieutenant -Lockwood, who had been one of his parishioners. He said: “Just a few -days ago we were plunged into sorrow by the news that among the -living of the latest Arctic expedition who had been rescued was -_not_ our young townsman, the son of one of the most honored members -of this congregation; the dispatch that brought the glad -intelligence that six were saved was soon followed by the sad -announcement that he, vigorous as he was, had sunk under the rigors -of the climate, worn out by work and want. Has he left no lesson for -you and me, for all his fellow-men? Think of his ceaseless endeavor, -of the courage and devotion with which he bore the brunt of the -exploration, and wore away his own strength in seeking food for his -comrades and himself! See him, with a single companion, penetrating -nearer to the north pole than any other man had ever gone, however -daring! When he had done his whole duty, more than had ever been -done before, he lies down to rest—to die. - -[Illustration: THE GREELY EXPEDITION. -MAP SHOWING THE EXPLORATIONS BY -LIEUT. J.B. LOCKWOOD, INFTY. A. S. O. -1882-1883] - -“Most fittingly did his brother explorers give his name to this -spot, the farthest land north trod by human foot. Lockwood Island -shall stand, as long as the earth endures, amid the awful wastes and -silence of these mysterious regions, as the monument of this brave -young soldier. A child of the Church, the subject of ceaseless -prayer—of yours, of mine, of his family—we trust that his spirit, -chastened and exalted by the hardships he endured, winged its flight -from the inhospitable land that refused sustenance to his body, and -now rests and waits in the paradise of God. We mingle our tears with -his father’s and his mother’s, and with those of all who loved him; -but out of the deep we rejoice in the record he has left behind of -devotion to duty even unto death. Surely no life is short in which -so much is done, or in vain that gives such instruction and such -inspiration to other lives. In conclusion, let us not cast away our -faith in God, because of the mysteries and trials and sufferings of -life.” - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]A suburb of Annapolis. - - - THE END. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Retained the copyright notice from the printed edition (although - this book is in the public domain.) - ---Silently corrected a few palpable typos. - ---In the text versions only, delimited italicized text in - _underscores_. - ---In the table of distances travelled, abbreviated column headings - to save space, and added a key to the abbreviations. - ---Re-ordered the table of illustrations to match the order of - illustrations in the text. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Farthest North, by Charles Lanman - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FARTHEST NORTH *** - -***** This file should be named 54019-0.txt or 54019-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/0/1/54019/ - -Produced by Marcia Brooks, Stephen Hutcheson, and the -online Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - |