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</head>
<body>
<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 54007 ***</div>
<div id="cover" class="img">
<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Through the Black Hills and Bad Lands of South Dakota" width="500" height="737" />
</div>
<div class="img">
<img id="insidecov" src="images/icover.jpg" alt="Through the Black Hills and Bad Lands of South Dakota" width="500" height="738" />
</div>
<h1>Through the
<br /><span class="large">Black Hills</span>
<br />and
<br /><span class="large">Bad Lands</span>
<br />of South Dakota</h1>
<p class="tbcenter">By
<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
<p class="center">J. Fred Olander Company
<br />Pierre, S. D.</p>
<p class="center">Copyright, 1929
<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
<blockquote>
<p>To my mother who has been an
inspiration and a guide for me
throughout my early training, ever
helping her family to see and acquire
the highest ideals possible; and
to my wife who has assisted me in
the compilation and revision of this
book, the following pages are affectionately
dedicated.</p>
</blockquote>
<div class="img" id="fig1">
<img src="images/p002.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="545" />
<p class="caption">THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST
<br />By Edwin H. Blashfield
<br />This painting is in the Governor’s reception room in the S. D. Capitol building at Pierre.</p>
</div>
<h2>FOREWORD</h2>
<p>This book is not a history, although it contains some
historical accounts where such are necessary to bring out
the importance of the scenery described. It makes no attempt
at being a technical guide of any sort, although the treatment
of various animals, trees, flowers, and minerals is as
near accurate as a tourist could hope to obtain.</p>
<p>The main purpose of this book is to give a chronological
or itinerary account of what may be seen in the Black Hills.
It should acquaint the tourist with the things of interest to
see on his trip. It should save him the chagrin of passing a
point of interest without having known he did so. It should,
further, give him a souvenir of the scenes and experiences
of the trip. But one of the central purposes of this treatise
is to give the school children and the grown-ups of South Dakota
a picture of their own Black Hills and Bad Lands.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig2">
<img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="" width="410" height="405" />
<p class="caption"></p>
</div>
<h2>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h2>
<dl class="toc">
<dt><span class="lj">Chapter </span>Page</dt>
<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="cn">I </span>Introduction</a> 9</dt>
<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="cn">II </span>State Capitol</a> 13</dt>
<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="cn">III </span>The Badlands</a> 21</dt>
<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="cn">IV </span>Rapid City</a> 35</dt>
<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="cn">V </span>Cement Plant</a> 40</dt>
<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="cn">VI </span>Crystal Cave</a> 43</dt>
<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="cn">VII </span>Sturgis</a> 48</dt>
<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="cn">VIII </span>Belle Fourche</a> 52</dt>
<dt><a href="#c9"><span class="cn">IX </span>Spearfish</a> 60</dt>
<dt><a href="#c10"><span class="cn">X </span>Pine Crest Camp</a> 69</dt>
<dt><a href="#c11"><span class="cn">XI </span>Lead</a> 71</dt>
<dt><a href="#c12"><span class="cn">XII </span>Deadwood</a> 83</dt>
<dt><a href="#c13"><span class="cn">XIII </span>Pactola, Silver City, and Camp Wanzer</a> 90</dt>
<dt><a href="#c14"><span class="cn">XIV </span>Hill City and Keystone</a> 93</dt>
<dt><a href="#c15"><span class="cn">XV </span>Needles Road, Sylvan Lake Harney Peak and the Gorge</a> 101</dt>
<dt><a href="#c16"><span class="cn">XVI </span>Custer</a> 125</dt>
<dt><a href="#c17"><span class="cn">XVII </span>Hot Springs</a> 145</dt>
<dt><span class="lj">Appendix </span>Page</dt>
<dt><a href="#c18"><span class="cn">I </span>Mountains</a> 161</dt>
<dt><a href="#c19"><span class="cn">II </span>Elevations</a> 163</dt>
<dt><a href="#c20"><span class="cn">III </span>Industries</a> 165</dt>
<dt><a href="#c21"><span class="cn">IV </span>Fishing</a> 167</dt>
<dt><a href="#c22"><span class="cn">V </span>Streams</a> 169</dt>
<dt><a href="#c23"><span class="cn">VI </span>Camps and Camping</a> 171</dt>
<dt><a href="#c24"><span class="cn">VII </span>New Developments</a> 179</dt>
<dt><a href="#c25"><span class="cn">VIII </span>Shorter Routes</a> 183</dt>
</dl>
<div class="img" id="fig3">
<img src="images/p004.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="628" />
<p class="caption">Harney Peak above the clouds. This is the highest point in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains.<span class="jr">Photo by Beard</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
<h2 id="c1">CHAPTER I
<br />Introduction</h2>
<p>“The Wonderland of America” is not an overstatement
of the scenic beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota.
One cannot but marvel at the endless new experiences that
he has each day, whether it be on a three days’ or a three
weeks’ trip through the Black Hills. In the shorter trip he
will take in the more prominent points, scarcely departing
from the main arterial highways. On the longer tour he
will drive a thousand to fifteen hundred miles through deep
canyons, up to the mines, and to many other places which
at first would seem almost impenetrable but which upon inquiry
will be found readily accessible. The more extensive
trip should be the one selected if at all possible, for it leaves
an impression on a person’s mind that cannot be erased by
time or by any amount of traveling in any part of the world.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig4">
<img src="images/p004a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="465" />
<p class="caption">Birdseye view of Sylvan Lake<br /><span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>The vast, impressive grandeur of the whole, gained by the
views from mountain tops, from the floors of canyons, and
from various other vantage points cannot help but leave
with one a feeling of awe, a feeling that the Creator of these
great magnificent sturdy formations, towering toward the
<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span>
sky, penetrating the very clouds and fringed and capped by
element defying monarchs of the evergreen family is a powerful
Being. They leave with a person a feeling of safety under
the protecting guidance of a Being powerful enough to
create what lies before him.</p>
<p>All through the “Hills” this feeling of the marvelous
greatness of the structures, and the intricate workmanship
found in them grows upon a person, until when he speeds
eastward (or westward) at the close of the trip with an occasional
backward look, he cannot help feeling that his mind
has been broadened and expanded proportionate to the impressiveness
of what he has seen.</p>
<p>No attempt will be made in this volume at a systematic
cataloging of the various things of interest to be seen. The
account will be strictly chronological, in order, just as it was
experienced on a trip through the “Hills.” Preceding the
Black Hills accounts will come an account of a tour through
the Great Badlands of South Dakota. A trip to the “Hills”
is not complete without a visit to the Badlands, and the impressiveness
of the latter is scarcely less than that of its
neighbor. It is well to plan for this part of the trip before
entering the “Hills.” Then, if it rains the Badlands must
be postponed until the close, for the roads are somewhat
bad when wet.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig5">
<img src="images/p005.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="454" />
<p class="caption">A peak in Cedar Pass<br /><span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
<div class="img" id="fig6">
<img src="images/p005a.jpg" alt="" width="478" height="800" />
<p class="caption">This Monument marks the center of the state of South Dakota and the approximate center of North America. It stands along the highway north of Pierre</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div>
<div class="img" id="fig7">
<img src="images/p006.jpg" alt="" width="632" height="1000" />
<p class="caption">Rotunda, Capitol, Pierre</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
<h2 id="c2">CHAPTER II
<br />State Capitol</h2>
<p>No matter whether the entrance to South Dakota is
made from the north, south, east, or west, all of the main
roads are gravel surfaced. Many an Eastener will complain
of the driving on these roads, but one may drive up to fifty
or sixty miles per hour on them with comparative safety,
with the average car. This is far beyond the legal limit of
the state. Rain and other adverse weather conditions will
not affect traveling. This holds true for most of the main
highways in the “Hills.”</p>
<div class="img" id="fig8">
<img src="images/p006a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" />
<p class="caption">Corridor and Grand Stairway, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<p>Over these gravelled highways, probably U. S. 14 or U. S.
16 we speed until we hit Pierre, the State capitol, located in
the center of South Dakota. Here it might be well to stop
for a few hours or overnight. The State welcomes everyone
to a trip through the State Capitol. This trip is interesting
and in many ways highly enlightening.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
<div class="img" id="fig9">
<img src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="629" />
<p class="caption">Governor’s Reception Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div>
<div class="img" id="fig10">
<img src="images/p007a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="548" />
<p class="caption">Supreme Court Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<p>The Capitol, “up on the hill,” is probably the first building
of Pierre to catch the eye when entering the city from
any direction. Its great wings and massive dome cause it
to stand out, and its height adds to its conspicuousness.</p>
<p>Capitol Avenue, coming from the east runs true with
the world. It leads thus past the Governor’s residence to a
beautiful arch bridge over the outlet from what is known
as Capitol Lake.</p>
<p>On this placid lake, surrounded by splendid lawn, swans
float gracefully and various other aquatic forms feed with
varying degrees of industry.</p>
<p>From here Capitol Avenue turns in a north-westerly
direction gradually ascending to the Capitol, two blocks distant.
The Capitol lies parallel to the avenue, being on the
<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span>
north-east side, facing the south-west. It is surrounded with
beautiful trees, flowers, and an exceptionally beautiful lawn.</p>
<p>After climbing the long flight of stone steps (the whole
building is of white stone), we enter the rotunda of the Capitol.
There we are greeted by a beautiful Carrara marble
interior, set off by statues and pictures of those responsible
for the early progress of South Dakota. From the exact center
of the building we may look up into the gigantic dome
fringed with remarkable paintings above exquisite balconies
and alcoves.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig11">
<img src="images/p008.jpg" alt="" width="598" height="999" />
<p class="caption">Grand Stairway, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
<p>To the left of the entrance we step into the main reception
room of the Governor. There we see that famous oil
painting “The Spirit of Progress,” by Blashfield, covering
the entire north-west wall. Into the room, if our visit were
in 1927 or 1928, would come Governor Bulow, who greeted
President Coolidge to his summer white house. Governor
Bulow never failed to extend a warm welcome to the visitors
at the Capitol. His words delivered at a high school track
meet in 1928 are typical of him. “We are all competitors in
contest of life. Upon our sportsmanship, fairness, and hard
training depends our position at the finish.”</p>
<p>From the Governor’s suite we go to the office of the
Secretary of State, and thence through the offices of the
Commissioner of Public Lands, and that of the State Treasurer.</p>
<p>In the other wing we see the rooms of the Supreme Court
of South Dakota, the offices of the judges, and the great
Supreme Court Law Library.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig12">
<img src="images/p008a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="548" />
<p class="caption">Senate Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div>
<div class="img" id="fig13">
<img src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="540" />
<p class="caption">House of Representatives Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
</div>
<p>Now we descend the stairs to the lower floor. Here we
find case after case lining the entire basement, filled with
Indian costumes, stone instruments, arrow heads, war uniforms,
and weapons of historical importance, stuffed birds
of S. D., bones of animals, present and past, the first bag of
sugar produced in South Dakota (encased in a silk bag) and
various other curios. On the walls are large framed pictures
of many of the early heroes and state officers of South
Dakota.</p>
<p>On this floor are the offices of the state Railroad Commission,
Attorney General, Public Examiner, Superintendent
of Schools, Rural Credits Board, Library Commission, Historical
Society, and State Sheriff. Under the steps is a lunch
counter and confectionery stand, and in front of it an information
desk. Last but not least, in the north-west end of the
wing stands the gigantic moose.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div>
<p>On the second floor we find the rooms of the state Senate
and House of Representatives, with adjoining lobbies and
other rooms.</p>
<p>On the third floor are balconies to the legislative rooms,
and various offices, including the automobile license department,
the state banking department, state securities commission,
and others.</p>
<p>From this floor a spiral stairway leads up, up, up, to the
room above the inner dome. From the dome room one can
see the mighty turbulent waters of the Missouri bubble and
boil on their way. The great bridge is in full view, with the
railway bridge beyond. The scenes from the “Capitol dome”
are remarkable. A trip to Pierre would be incomplete without
this part.</p>
<p>From the Capitol our trip takes us through the city of
Pierre over the bridge to Fort Pierre where first evidences
of white men in S. D. were found. A high flagpole now stands
where the Verendrye Plate, planted in 1743, was found.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig14">
<img src="images/p009a.jpg" alt="Capital Building" width="800" height="456" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div>
<div class="img" id="fig15">
<img src="images/p010.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="981" />
<p class="caption">The Verendrye Plate, found on the bluffs above Fort Pierre, February 16, 1913. It was buried by La Verendrye, March 30, 1743, when he was exploring the land for France. This is the first evidence of white men in South Dakota.</p><p class="caption">See the plate in the corridor at the Capitol.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
<h2 id="c3">CHAPTER III
<br />The Badlands</h2>
<p>We cross the Missouri River on the morning of June
29th and speed along through comparatively new but highly
productive agricultural land, through Hayes, Midland and
Philip to Cottonwood. In Philip we find one of the most
modern small cities of the state. It is worth stopping to see.
When we arrive at Cottonwood, about three hours from Pierre,
or a little less than one hundred ten miles, the weather seems
favorable and the roads good so we turn south off U. S. highway
14. Only a few miles out of Cottonwood we look ahead
and see the city-like elevations far in the distance. As we
draw nearer this great wall of clay takes on a more artistic
contour of multicolored towers, peaks, and walls, resembling
ruins of ancient cities.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig16">
<img src="images/p010b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="489" />
<p class="caption">Castle Turrets<span class="jr"> Fuson Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div>
<p>Countless theories and possibilities enter one’s mind to
account for these magnificent walls, rising directly from a few
feet to several hundred feet from level country. The
level plains are grass covered, but the walls are practically
bare. They are of almost pure sandy clay, with a little soft
shale in a layer near the top. They average from a hundred
to five hundred feet in height and are composed of several
colors each, some containing yellow, pink, orange and blue,
others having still different colors. For the most part the
colors are plain or washed, but some are very pronounced.</p>
<p>Other sections of the Badlands are depressions from the
grassy flats, with enormous areas seemingly fallen straight
down two to twenty feet, with perpendicular sides. The beds
of these great depressions are bare yellow or white clay.</p>
<p>Theories of the formation of these structures include
“sea bottom,” “erosion,” “volcanic eruptions,” etc.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig17">
<img src="images/p011.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="544" />
<p class="caption">Summit of Cedar Pass, Interior<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Seventeen miles from Cottonwood we drive through
Cedar Pass into the Badlands. The road winds around and
<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span>
around, through depressions and through valleys between the
great clay banks, ever leading upward. The grandeur of the
enormous colored banks and walls would impress even the
most barren minded person.</p>
<p>If one is coming over the C. B. H., (or A Y P.); (U. S.
16 to be specific), he must leave for S. D. No. 40 about fifteen
miles west of Kadoka, and he will emerge at Cedar Pass the
same as though he came from the north. The view is magnificent.</p>
<p>Finally the road gets narrow and precipitous. The passes
become more crooked and the grades more steep. The road
is bordered by profuse scrub cedar trees. There is a thrill
in that drive! At first it looks dangerous, but the danger
seems to minimize as we approach each more steep and more
crooked and more narrow section. By taking it slowly the
risk is small. (The road has since been improved.)</p>
<div class="img" id="fig18">
<img src="images/p011a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="540" />
<p class="caption">Amphitheatre of the Wilds. In the Bad Lands<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
<div class="img" id="fig19">
<img src="images/p012.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="637" />
<p class="caption">Vampire Peak in Cedar Pass, Interior. The entrance to the Big Bad Lands<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
<div class="img" id="fig20">
<img src="images/p012a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
<p class="caption">Studying the Bad Lands</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig21">
<img src="images/p012b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="360" />
<p class="caption">Another Bad Lands Scene</p>
</div>
<p>We descend the south slope of the ridge, past the new
Cedar Pass Camp, and drive five miles or so over a good road
into Interior. On the way, however, we stop and walk for
some distance among the hills. We find the clay to be hard
and firm, resembling baked mud in texture. Each rain washes
a little of the clay down, causing a gradual erosion through
the years. This process has gradually uncovered the remains
of life of this country at the time of its formation. We find
a petrified tooth of some great animal. The tooth is about
four inches long and two wide. Some distance farther we
run across a mammoth rock formation embedded in the clay.
It resembles and may have been the remains of a turtle six
<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span>
or seven feet in diameter, with head and feet protruding out
of the bank. From these same environs scientists have taken
great petrified skeletons of ancient mastodons, reptiles, birds
and beasts of all shapes and sizes. We can easily imagine
how these beasts got bogged down in this once soft, spongy
ex-sea-bottom, there to remain through these centuries.</p>
<p>We spend more time than we had planned examining the
place, so we find ourselves in Interior for the night. We pitch
camp, and during the night receive our first rain on the trip.
Our sympathy for the poor little mouse who had appropriated
a little of the tent roof for his nest is not very pronounced.</p>
<p>The next morning we rise early. We hike to “Big Foot,”
a high clay ridge south of town, and climb it. It proves much
higher and more difficult to climb than first appearances
indicate. The climb is a thriller, especially as the clay is a
bit slippery this morning.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig22">
<img src="images/p013.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="497" />
<p class="caption">Manitou Mountain in the Bad Lands</p>
</div>
<p>We return for breakfast, stopping in a field on the way
to examine a huge oil drilling rig which has been wrecked
many years ago. It is made almost entirely of oak, some
<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span>
timbers being two feet square and very long. The main belt
wheel is twelve feet in diameter, made also of wood. To us
this is a sight.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig23">
<img src="images/p013a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="543" />
<p class="caption">Castle of Ancients, near Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>The bacon and coffee are more than welcome when we
return. After breakfast we strike camp and drive into town.
There Palmer’s Curio shop attracts us for some time. We
leave with several calcium silicate crystals and specimens of
the world’s only sand crystals.</p>
<p>The most interesting person met on our trip is found in
Interior. He is Mr. Henry Thompson, who runs a little
souvenir stand called “The Wonderland.” He wears long,
flowing white hair and a great flowing moustache of the
same color. His acquaintance with the country dates back
many a year.</p>
<p>No one going through Interior should miss him. He
tells some very interesting tales of early days in the West.
Recently a motion picture company used him in the role of
the Patriarch Moses in the mountains. He gives us a rehearsal
<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span>
of the role he played and recounts the garb of animal
skins he wore, and other interesting features of the adventure.
We listen with open mouths, and find it difficult to tear
ourselves away for the continuance of our journey.</p>
<p>Twenty-four miles west of Interior, after traveling
through the scenic splendor of the Badlands we come upon
a vast expanse of land covered with a crust of once molten
rock about an inch thick, now all broken into fragments. The
formation consists of two hardened layers of once molten
rock, probably of calcium silicate composition, smooth on the
outer edges and joined together by countless papilae, making
the whole look like two layers joined by a porous center.
There is no doubt in one’s mind, upon viewing it, that Satan
must surely have had his headquarters here at some time or
other.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig24">
<img src="images/p014.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
<p class="caption">Castle Rock in the Bad Lands, near Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>We follow State Highway Number 40 through other Badland
wonders five miles farther. The road is very good. At
Scenic we visit the widely known Museum Filling Station.
Here we see a beautiful and interesting collection of stones
<span class="pb" id="Page_29">29</span>
from the Black Hills. In fact the entire building is covered
with rocks, fossils and other interesting things embedded in
concrete. Prehistoric animal bones and Indian relics from
the Badlands are within. The bones, the curious animals, the
pictures, the petrified eggs, the skeletons, Indian relics and
numerous other curios are remarkable.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig25">
<img src="images/p014a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="549" />
<p class="caption">The Alter in the Castles of the Ancients<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>They have attracted people from throughout the world,
not for a hasty examination but for extensive study. This
place is one of the important places to see in the Badlands.
One cannot afford to miss it under any circumstances.</p>
<p>The vicinity of Scenic is known to scientists as the greatest
fossil field in the United States. Scenic is also an Indian
trading post.</p>
<p>South of Scenic are some of the most spectacular examples
of erosion in the United States. Some of the names
assigned to them are: “Castle of the Ancients,” “The Altar
of the Gods,” “Castle Rock,” “Castle Turrets,” “The Sphinx
Twins,” “The Silent Sentinel,” “Amphitheater of the Wilds”
and “The Devil’s Golf Course.” These remarkable formations
almost hold us in reverent awe, so stupendous are they in
their unusualness and grandeur.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div>
<div class="img" id="fig26">
<img src="images/p015.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="638" />
<p class="caption">LOWER ENTRANCE TO DILLON PASS<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
<p>“Hell’s Ten Thousand Acres,” from Scenic south are
equal in some ways to the Grand Canyon of Colorado in their
ruggedness. “Hell’s Sunken Gardens,” south also, surpasses
in beauty and magnitude anything of its kind in the world.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig27">
<img src="images/p015a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="525" />
<p class="caption">Bad Lands Museum, Scenic</p>
</div>
<p>Wounded Knee Battlefield, the last stand of the Sioux,
is also south of Scenic. Here hundreds of Indians, men,
women and children, were massacred by the soldiers when
they stubbornly resisted the coming of law and government
to take from them their hunting grounds. These Indians were
all buried in one long grave, marked now with a tall marble
slab on which are chiseled the odd names of the Indian dead.</p>
<p>The management of the Museum Filling Station is very
enthusiastic about the “Great Badlands.” They will furnish
any additional information desired and will furnish guides at
a reasonable cost to those who desire such in visiting the
wonders to the south.</p>
<p>From Scenic, trail 40 leads on to Rapid City. Some of
the finer views of the Badlands are found along this road.</p>
<p>On to Rapid City we drive, over an excellent dirt road.
We stop on the Cheyenne River to eat our lunch. These
little picnic grounds all help to make the trip a really enjoyable
vacation. We must stop at the turn in the road for a
drink of Nature’s purest nectar flowing through a huge
fountain. This is just a few miles before we reach Rapid
City.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
<div class="img" id="fig28">
<img src="images/p016.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="509" />
<p class="caption">A Bad Lands Scene</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig29">
<img src="images/p016a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="537" />
<p class="caption">The Devil’s Golf Course, Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div>
<div class="img" id="fig30">
<img src="images/p016b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="545" />
<p class="caption">The Silent Sentinel, Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>From Scenic to Rapid City is about forty-five miles.
After leaving Scenic the silhouetted black mountains, soon
come into view. They are visible in their magnificent grandeur,
fifty miles distant, growing more distinct as they are
approached. Upon nearing them, if one is familiar with the
various peaks, he can pick each out and call it by name.</p>
<p>We reach Rapid City in the eastern foothills, at four
o’clock. The School of Mines museum at the entrance to the
city, also nationally and internationally known, is our first
point of interest in the “Hills.”</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div>
<div class="img" id="fig31">
<img src="images/p017.jpg" alt="" width="551" height="999" />
<p class="caption">The route taken</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
<h2 id="c4">CHAPTER IV
<br />Rapid City</h2>
<p>The School of Mines Museum is not an enormous affair.
It is contained in one large room belonging to the School of
Mines.</p>
<p>The bones of prehistoric animals are probably the best
known and most widely advertised part of the museum. This
collection includes skulls, jaw bones, teeth, leg bones, and in
fact whole skeletons of the prehistoric monsters. One cannot
but wonder what life was like, and how these animals
acted in the days when they lived. The size and contour of
these skeletons are truly remarkable.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig32">
<img src="images/p017a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="475" />
<p class="caption">On the Cheyenne</p>
</div>
<p>In cases throughout the room are displayed a vast variety
of minerals, ores, types of rock formations, replicas of
famous diamonds, and numerous other curios. On the south
wall is an American flag, weighing 400 pounds, made of
Black Hills minerals. On the east wall are two excellent
relief maps of gigantic proportions, showing relative heights
in the Black Hills. Guns and various other relics adorn the
walls. No visitor to the “Hills” can afford to miss this part
<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span>
of the trip. It may take one half hour to a day, depending
on one’s interest in the displays, but the time is excellently
spent.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig33">
<img src="images/p018.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
<p class="caption">Camp made</p>
</div>
<p>From the School we drive into Rapid City, and after a
bit of shopping, on to the Municipal Tourist Camp. This
camp is about four miles up Rapid Canyon west of the city.</p>
<p>By the time the tent is pitched and camp made a dinner
does not meet an unwelcome reception. Why the camp
stove should choose this time to balk is a still unanswered
question. Somehow these appliances know when they can
aggravate one the most.</p>
<p>Here in the Municipal Camp we receive a pleasant surprise.
Instead of the expected camp grounds we find a beautiful
spot for pitching our tent, “Old Swayback,” modern
toilet facilities, a laundry with hot water, stores, and best
of all an honest to goodness “swimmin hole” in Rapid Creek.</p>
<p>True to the spirit of the Black Hills, Rapid City Municipal
Camp has its neat log cabin, with reading table, fireplace,
electric lights, and other conveniences for its guests.
Tourists are welcomed there at any and all times. These
log cabins are a decided thrill to the traveler who is not familiar
with them. Later in this account there will be a description
of the typical log cabin.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div>
<p>The camp cots, in which we have so much confidence at
first, have begun by this time to feel a bit hard, to seem a
bit cold, and to afford a rather meager sort of rest. But
here Yankee ingenuity might come into good play.</p>
<p>The desirability of light steel camp beds instead of the
cots and the need of light mattresses becomes evident.</p>
<p>Sunday morning proves an excellent time to get acquainted
with the habits of the Rapid Creek trout. Only three
consent to being lured from their swim, however. The fishing
is rather slow but nevertheless enjoyable. To a more
experienced angler the luck is usually different.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig34">
<img src="images/p018a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="458" />
<p class="caption">Warren-Lamb Saw Mill<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>From fishing we turn to swimming. This proves to be
a more lively sport. The water is fine, just a least bit cool.
The current is the feature of this plunge. One no sooner
gets out into it than he feels himself being pulled very rapidly
downstream. The sensation is not exactly reassuring. In
fact it frightens one. But it takes only a few strokes to get
out of the swift water into more placid pools. This learned,
it becomes pleasant to defy the current. Another surprise
awaits. When one attempts to swim back to the side from
which he entered, the current carries him past the precipitous
rocks before he can pull himself out. No amount of
<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span>
trying results otherwise. This is almost terrifying. Fortunately,
at this point a man happens along who is familiar with
the pool. He shows us where there is a small quiet spot
where the swimmer can climb up on the rocks without danger
of being carried downstream. Again a precarious situation
develops into a pleasure.</p>
<p>We wish to attend church, but have no clothing along
except our camping equipment. This convinces us that we
should have brought along some more respectable clothing
for it will not be amiss on several occasions during the trip.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig35">
<img src="images/p019.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="544" />
<p class="caption">Rapid Canyon, near Dark Canyon<span class="jr"> Photo by V</span></p>
</div>
<p>After lunch we drive up Rapid Canyon to Lockhart
Inn. We go up the mountainside to see the moss sculpturing
by Mr. Lockhart called “A Miner’s Dream.” Then we
start the ascent up the Canyon on foot. This is a climb that
will pay one well. From Rapid Canyon we turn into Dark
Canyon ascending by rock ledge paths and canyon floor
through beautiful formations of nature’s handiwork. One
<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span>
cannot imagine the thrill, not only of the scenery but also
the thrill of accomplishment, a hundred per cent pleasant
that goes with this trip. Some of the sidelights of the trip
are “Sitting Bull’s Kitchen,” “Victoria Falls,” (a beautiful
waterfall), “Jungle of the Gods,” “Bridge of the Gods,” (a
natural bridge formerly over the canyon but now fallen in),
and “Bear Cave.” The picturesque grandeur of the panorama,
the stupendous rocks, the great precipices, the straight tall
trees, the swift, cold, clear streams and many other awe inspiring
and pleasant experiences stamp themselves indelibly
upon our minds. The experiences include climbing precipitous
places, jumping and climbing over rocks, looking down
over precipices hundreds of feet below, continually discovering
something new to enjoy. The effect is invigorating, exhilarating,
satisfying. The path is not dangerous at any
place, though filled with thrills, especially on the paths built
on ledges around the mountain. These are the rambles that
mean most to vacationists, and unfortunately they are too
often left out because of the time needed and the effort necessary
to make them.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig36">
<img src="images/p019a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="459" />
<p class="caption">Rim Rock Highway in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div>
<h2 id="c5">CHAPTER V
<br />Cement Plant</h2>
<p>Monday morning we strike camp at 9:00 a. m. We drive
into Rapid City, get our snapshots of the Badlands which
had been finished there, again shop a bit, and drive out to
the cement plant.</p>
<p>First, however, a word about Rapid City. It is a thriving
little city on the eastern entrance to the Hills. The
streets have a modern air to them, with occasional reminders
of the days of the “West.” During the tourist season
the city fairly teems with life. Prices are reasonable and the
people are courteous. The city resembles those farther east
for the most part, not being without the familiar Woolworth
and Penny stores. But the relics of cowboy days are still in
evidence, and specimens of fish and game, alive or mounted,
are shown with no little pride.</p>
<p>The high school, where President Coolidge had his summer
Capitol in 1927, is a place worth stopping to see.</p>
<p>The State cement plant is run by the State of South
Dakota. It employs about 150 people. The plant consists of
the quarries, the sheds for raw rock, chutes, power house,
crushers, the hydrating and baking plant, the furnaces, the
drying tanks, the sacking department, and the offices. Each
of the buildings is very large. The raw rock shed holds thousands
of tons of rock. Each of the ten storage or drying tanks
holds 15,000 barrels of cement. The plant can turn out twenty
car loads a day, with eight hundred to a thousand sacks to
each car.</p>
<p>The men work nine hours each day and sometimes ten.
The plant closed five months the first year, three the second,
and this last year it closed but one month. When we visit
it, it has more orders than it can fill. The South Dakota
cement is a superior quality and is much in demand.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_41">41</div>
<p>To the person interested in machinery the huge turbines
and generators are very interesting. These powerful affairs
taking up but little room, generate enough electrical power
to run the whole enormous plant.</p>
<p>In going through the plant one starts at the raw rock
sheds. Here the loading devices carry the stone over a conveyor
into the crushers. From there the material goes, by
various processes to be soaked and made into mud, mixed,
dried in blast tubes by very intense heat and flame, crushed
again, run into drying tanks, and finally sacked and loaded
into boxcars.</p>
<p>There are two men, known as sackers who, with the use
of machinery, can fill 15,000 to 20,000 sacks a day. They receive
the empty sacks, tied by wire at the top, and only open
in one toe. This open toe is slipped over a nozzle through
which the cement pours into the sack suspended upside down,
resting on a small scale. When the proper weight of cement
has entered, the scale lets the bag down upon a conveyor
belt and at the same time shuts off the cement in the nozzle.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig37">
<img src="images/p020.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="445" />
<p class="caption">South Dakota State Cement Plant, Rapid City</p>
</div>
<p>The flap inside the toe of the sack pulls across the hole
closing the sack. Each man has four sacks filling at once,
<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span>
and he has just barely time to put on a sack and re-adjust
his machinery before the next sack is ready. The conveyor
belts carry the filled bags to a chute which deposits them in
the box car, one on either side of the sacker. Each of the
many machines throughout the plant is driven by a small
but powerful electric motor.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig38">
<img src="images/p021.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="423" />
<p class="caption">A visitor in the forests of the Black Hills</p>
</div>
<p>The cement plant is not one of nature’s wonders, but
one of the products of God’s masterpiece, man. It and other
mechanical achievements are hardly less to be marvelled at
than the natural wonders, themselves.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div>
<h2 id="c6">CHAPTER VI
<br />Crystal Cave</h2>
<p>From the cement plant we take U. S. Highway number
16 through Black Hawk and Piedmont to Crystal Cave. On
this road we encounter the second notable man-made achievement.
The car begins to register a few degrees of added heat
in the cooling system. Before we reach the top of the great
hill, (several miles long), we pass several cars which have
not been as effectively cooled as our own. The grade has
been gradual and even, clear from the bottom to the top of
the mountain. The road winds around vale and crag, often
having had to be cut through solid rock or cut into a niche
on the steep side of the mountain. It is a feat of engineering
skill capable of firing the imagination of anyone.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig39">
<img src="images/p021a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="433" />
<p class="caption">Entrance to Crystal Cave</p>
</div>
<p>About sixteen miles out of Rapid City we come to the
huge arrow and sign pointing to Crystal Cave. The distance
it was to be from the main road is given us on the sign board;
it seems twice as far. The road is no longer smooth and surfaced
or the grades regular or straight. These “side” roads
are fast being improved, and probably by another year this
<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span>
one will be fairly smooth, and wide enough for two cars to
pass anywhere. We find it a bit rough, rutted, winding
through dense vegetation, and narrow. However, in dry
weather the driving there is safe, comparatively easy, and
enjoyable. The scenery is quite picturesque. To those interested
in birds, trees, and flowers this will be a splendid
bit of road.</p>
<p>After some little time, a half hour or less, we arrive at
the cave entrance.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig40">
<img src="images/p022.jpg" alt="" width="433" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Bridal Veil, Crystal Cave</p>
</div>
<p>The headquarters are located in a little log cabin with a
wide veranda where one can see specimens from the cave
<span class="pb" id="Page_45">45</span>
and where souvenirs may be bought. The new cave entrance,
pictured herewith is just above the cabin.</p>
<p>When a large enough party has gathered, a guide lights
many gasoline lanterns and we are told to file into the cave
entrance. As we do so the guide distributes the lights.
After this he takes the lead.</p>
<p>We go into the cave in our regular clothing, without
needing slickers or other special equipment. It might be
said, however, khaki clothing and hobnailed boots are not so
bad for a trip of this kind. The same holds for mountain
climbing. High heels are decidedly a detriment to progress,
and somewhat precarious as well, where the footing is moist
or steep.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig41">
<img src="images/p022a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="438" />
<p class="caption">The Butcher’s Face, Crystal Cave</p>
</div>
<p>With our lanterns we file after the guide. He leads us
down and forward into the bowels of the earth, stopping occasionally
to explain the various formations which we are
passing. His “line” is strongly based on fact, and if one has
a good imagination he can enjoy the trip, being able to “see”
the various animals, rooms, or formations which the guide
points out.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_46">46</div>
<div class="img" id="fig42">
<img src="images/p023.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
<p class="caption">The Frozen River, Crystal Cave<span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>First, the cave has been formed in limestone, through
erosion by water, extending over many thousands of years.
The mineral part of the water has hardened in perfect crystals,
looking as though they had been cut. These crystals
cling to the walls, creating a beautiful effect. They are as
hard as rock.</p>
<p>Some of the high lights of the trip are “Devil’s Ice Box,”
“Moses’s Meat Market,” with hams, bacon and a chicken hanging
from the ceiling, “The Butcher Himself” (pictured), in
his parlor, “Poverty Flats,” “Corcham’s Art Gallery,” which
contained well hung walls, and even a goat. Then came
“Cathedral Cave,” with its crystalline rolling clouds. “The
Polar Bear,” “Diamond Rock,” made of pulverized mica, and
“Santa Claus.”</p>
<p>There are stalactites hung from the tops of some of the
caves and stalagmites built up from the floors, each of which
if it could talk could tell stories that would be ancient history
to Moses.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div>
<p>Going on, we come to “Old Man Cave” and “Black Hills
Bakery.” In the latter were buns (of solid rock), rolls and
loaves of bread, natural formations. From here we go into
a room 300 feet below the surface and put out the lights.
It is very dark there, even in the daytime.</p>
<p>We light the lanterns, pass on, and come to the “Whale
that Jonah swallowed.” Next comes the “Mayflower,” and
last the trip out. The “Bridal Veil” and “Frozen River”
were among the most picturesque of the scenes, the exact
position of which are not recalled.</p>
<p>Most of the rooms and passages are six to twelve feet in
height. Some are hundreds of feet deep and some are too
close to the floor for the unwary head. These rocks do not
give very far when one’s head hits them.</p>
<p>Our guide is a decidedly congenial and unassuming young
man. He wins the favor of all of the party, keeping the
spirits high through the whole trip.</p>
<p>One half mile down, on the road from Crystal Cave is a
sign pointing toward Knife Blade Rock. This is a gigantic
thin rock formation rising 600 feet out of the bed of the
canyon. The origin of this phenomenon also kindles one’s
imagination.</p>
<p>When viewing Knife Blade Rock we stand on a high
precipitous canyon wall and look nearly straight down
hundreds of feet into the Elk Creek Canyon. This view is
magnificent; the great deep canyon, the precipitous cliff,
Knife Blade, and the expansive opposite bank covered with
heavy vegetation.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig43">
<img src="images/p023a.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="500" height="313" />
</div>
<p>From here we move on toward Sturgis about ten miles
distant.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_48">48</div>
<h2 id="c7">CHAPTER VII
<br />Sturgis</h2>
<p>The road to Sturgis is pretty well crowded with cars
headed for the Tri-State Roundup at Belle Fourche. We
arrive about four o’clock. The next hour is spent in getting
boots repaired, getting haircuts and in replenishing the food
supply.</p>
<p>We still have a good supply of eggs, butter, bacon, fruit,
and vegetables which we packed up on the farm before starting
the trip. At each tourist camp we get plenty of fresh
vegetables and milk. We appreciate the vegetable and store
service of the camps. It is excellent. This, with the food
stove, utensils and dishes we brought with us on the trip,
makes our food question simple and economical as well as
highly satisfactory. We enjoy every meal.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig44">
<img src="images/p024.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="409" />
<p class="caption">Bear Butte in the Distance</p>
</div>
<p>Sturgis has one of the best tourist parks we encountered
on the trip. The camp is equipped with excellent little cottages
for those who prefer them. It has a main camp building
containing running spring water, modern toilet facilities with
hot and cold water, shower baths and a laundry. Bear Butte
<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span>
Creek flows directly behind our tent. Above our heads are
electric lights. Beside the thrill and exhilaration of camping
the conveniences are almost equal to those enjoyed in a first
class hotel. The nice shady camp site, however, to the person
enjoying the out-of-doors makes a hotel feel like a dungeon.
The tent takes but a few minutes to set up and it adds tremendously
to the pleasure of an outing.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig45">
<img src="images/p024a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="505" />
<p class="caption">Bear Butte, close up<span class="jr"> O. A. Vik</span></p>
</div>
<p>We get a good night’s rest in the Sturgis park and rise
early the following morning to partake of the nice hot flap-jacks,
bacon, coffee and oatmeal. (We will need it all before
lunch time).</p>
<p>We start out bright and early to climb Bear Butte. We
take trail No. 79 out to the northeast of Sturgis. We leave
the highway a few miles out and take the Bear Butte trail.
What looked like a mile or two proves to be seven or eight,
and what looked like a small mound proves to be a huge formation
rising nearly a thousand feet above its base.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div>
<p>We had hoped to prance right up to the top on short notice.
Our troubles start when we cannot decide whether we
are supposed to go up the east or south slope. We find later
that either is sufficiently difficult. We finally flounder
around to a farm house near the south slope, leave the car
and start up.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig46">
<img src="images/p025.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="407" />
<p class="caption">Climbing Bear Butte. It is more steep than it looked</p>
</div>
<p>The slope is steep and progress slow. The whole party
of us begin the climb. When we reach the shale slope and
have to climb instead of walk, only three of us are still going.
Even our shoes show the effects of the rocks. Well, we climb
for an hour and finally find ourselves on the top of this promontory
which we have by this time learned to respect. The
pictures show the size of the rocks compared with the humans
climbing them.</p>
<p>The view from here is excellent. We can see Mt. Roosevelt,
Harney Peak, White Rocks and other peaks with which
we are acquainted standing out in distant relief. The plains
stretch out for miles and miles to the north and east, and the
picturesque mountains are spread in the other directions. It
seems almost as though this peak towers above the entire
surrounding country on all sides. The view is well worth the
hard climb necessary to attain it. The U. S. Geological Survey
marker on the top indicates that the height is 4439 feet
<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span>
above the sea level, 987 feet above the city of Sturgis which,
is 3452 feet. (See <a href="#c18">appendix</a>.)</p>
<p>We descend in somewhat better time than it took us to
go up, have lunch and return to camp. From here we take
trail 24 for about two miles out to Ft. Meade, a military post.
Here we watch a polo game and guard mount. In the camp
are stationed about 750 U. S. regular army artillery men and
cavalrymen.</p>
<p>While at Sturgis we should take the Boulder Canyon road
to Deadwood but we miss this scenery as well as Rim Rock
Drive above Rapid Canyon. Boulder Canyon is one of the
most picturesque roads in the Hills, so enormous are its
perpendicular figured rock walls.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig47">
<img src="images/p025a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
<p class="caption">The Shale Slope, Bear Butte</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_52">52</div>
<h2 id="c8">CHAPTER VIII
<br />Belle Fourche</h2>
<p>We retire early on the night of the third and are on the
road early the next morning, headed for Belle Fourche over
U. S. 16. At Whitewood we go over another gigantic ridge
of hills which taxes our heavily loaded car. At Spearfish we
take U. S. 85 and gradually leave the mountains for the more
level northern plains.</p>
<p>We arrive in a very busy Belle Fourche. The streets are
lined with people, refreshment stands, side shows and various
other gala sights. Parking room is scarce. The whole town
reflects the western spirit. The predominating costume is
that of the cowboy dressed up. Broad rimmed, high crowned
hats and bright silk neckerchiefs are everywhere.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig48">
<img src="images/p026.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="494" />
<p class="caption">President Coolidge at the Roundup<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_53">53</div>
<p>Probably a Scotch visitor would not exactly appreciate
the reception. The Roundup is a gala affair. The people
come there to spend money. Those running the various
amusements and refreshment stands seem to understand this
perfectly and render all possible assistance. In the West the
celebrations are not marked with the conservatism of the East.</p>
<p>We enjoy the day after we get our bearings. We have
lunch after a couple of hours of “seeing Belle” and then go
out to the Roundup. The road is packed; we have started
none too soon. True to the training of school teachers, we try
to conserve on costs as much as possible. We have paid a
dollar apiece for general admission and now we decide a fifty
cent seat will be nearly as good as one for a dollar or more.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig49">
<img src="images/p026a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="504" />
<p class="caption">An Exciting Ride<br />Bill Pawley on a high one.<br />Cody Stampede, 1921</p>
</div>
<p>We get excellent bleacher seats, but somehow they get
surprisingly hard during the three hours and over that we
sit there. The sun is uncomfortably hot and the folks climbing
up and down are none too careful at whose expenses they
get the dust brushed from their shoes. We can not see the
events very plainly in some cases, but we are not cheated out
of very much of the performance at that.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_54">54</div>
<p>The clown car opens the day. Of course it is a Ford. But
the clown has done his duty and the affair brings forth more
than forced smiles. The Rapid City Bugle Corps, the Cavalry
Band (mounted) from Fort Meade, and the C. & N. W. Band
from Chicago are outstanding attractions.</p>
<p>The cow pony race comes next, then roping and the
cowboy relay. Those cowboys can certainly change saddles
from one pony to another in a hurry and also ride. Following
this comes exhibitions in horseback hurdling by cavalrymen.
Then comes a contest of cowboys riding steers. The man who
stays with his steer longest wins. Some of those fellows get
pretty hard spills. The broncho riding contest is just as lively.
The horses try hard enough to unseat their riders and many
of them succeed. The clown, in enormous red “Shaps,” rides
a bucking steer upon which he is mounted backward.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig50">
<img src="images/p027.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
<p class="caption">Steer riding</p>
</div>
<p>The cowgirl race is a close one, the winner almost having
to win by the proverbial sticking out of the horse’s tongue.</p>
<p>After this comes stunt riding and trick riding. The men,
and women, too, ride at a gallop doing head stands on the
saddle, standing upright, at right angles to the horse, clinging
beneath the horse’s neck, seated backward and in various
<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span>
other ways. They do gymnastics on the horses in full gallop.
One juggles balls in the air while riding, standing on the saddle
at full gallop. One lies on his back whirling a rope while
the horse beneath him runs. The clown rides a bucking
Missouri mule.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig51">
<img src="images/p027a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="596" />
<p class="caption">The Horse Wins<br />Dug Walker off Ripvanwinkle<br />White River Frontier Days<span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_56">56</div>
<p>For deviation, songs are sung amplified so that the crowd
can hear them. One is “Black Hills Rosebud.” Governor
Bulow gives a short talk, too.</p>
<p>Bulldogging steers, or riding up beside them, grasping
them by the horns, at full run, dismounting and throwing
them upon their backs seems to be the most popular sport.
The record time is under nine seconds.</p>
<p>The cowgirl relay is another exciting event. A cowgirl
then puts on a highly applauded solo dance. After this comes
the calf roping contest. This calls for real action. Riders,
mounted on two horses, one foot on each, furnished the next
race. One girl is entered.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig52">
<img src="images/p028.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="437" />
<p class="caption">Orman Dam, Belle Fourche</p>
</div>
<p>Mabel Strickland, famous woman rider, puts on a steer
roping exhibition and the bucking mule riding contest follows.
Then comes the wild horse race. During the whole performance
Clyde Ice of the Rapid Transit Co. is hovering over the
fairgrounds with his tri-motored Ford passenger plane.</p>
<p>The last event is an exhibition by one of the girls riding a
bucking horse. The horse throws the young lady before leaving
the corral shute. Accidents occasionally occur in this
rough play, though they are rarely fatal. All in all, the performance
is very good.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_57">57</div>
<div class="img" id="fig53">
<img src="images/p028a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="272" />
<p class="caption">U. and I. Sugar Plant, Belle Fourche, South Dakota<span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
<p class="caption">This is one of the large plants for making sugar from beets located in the midwestern states. This plant is supplied with beets from the Belle Fourche Valley, irrigated from the great irrigation project administered by the United States Government, and located north of Belle Fourche. Needless to say this is one of the major industries of this part of the state.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_58">58</div>
<p>After the program there are twenty thousand people trying
to leave the grounds at once and soon after the roads from
Belle Fourche receive a goodly share of these people. We
follow the southbound stream as far as the tourist camp, a
mile or two out.</p>
<p>Belle Fourche has a modern camp, although it is just in
the process of construction and not yet as complete as some
of the others. They have an outdoor dance floor, which is
very popular on the night of the Fourth.</p>
<p>The morning of the fifth we drive back through Belle
Fourche and east over U. S. Highway 212 to the “U. and I.”
sugar plant. This is another of the Black Hills industries.
We are given a pamphlet telling us that: the plant covers
eight acres; the main building is five stories high; the length
of the factory and warehouse is 587 feet; the capacity is
fifteen hundred tons of beets each twenty-four hours, and
the output 3600 hundred pound bags of sugar every day.
Three hundred men are employed during refining season.</p>
<p>A guide takes us through. We first see six 400 horsepower
boilers and two 1200 horsepower generators. These are
enormous affairs. They develop the power for the plant.
We proceed to the place where the beets are unloaded and
conveyed through an open flume, through a trash catcher to
the washer.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig54">
<img src="images/p029.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="414" />
<p class="caption">Spillway, Orman Dam</p>
</div>
<p>From here the beets are taken by an elevator to the top
of the plant. There knives cut them into small strings less
<span class="pb" id="Page_59">59</span>
than a half inch in diameter. These chips or “spaghetti” are
run into diffusion tanks. They first go to a liming station,
then through sulfur stoves, a bleaching process and on into
evaporating tanks. Here the solution is concentrated from
12 per cent sugar to 65 per cent pure. Then the sugar is put
through a centrifugal crystalizer and through a hot air blast
dryer. It takes just twenty-four hours from beets to sugar.
All machinery is electric.</p>
<p>The factory produced 183,000 bags of sugar last year or
over eighteen million pounds. About one-fourth of this is in
the warehouse when we visit it. The beets were grown on
11,000 acres in 1927 and the total crop was 35,000 tons of
beets.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig55">
<img src="images/p029a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
<p class="caption">An Irrigation Canal</p>
</div>
<p>We go further east on the highway 212 to the byroad
leading north to Orman Dam. The dam is a gigantic affair,
holding back a tremendous amount of water for use in irrigating
land for sugar beets and other crops. The water is
so clear that we can see the fish swimming beneath its surface.</p>
<p>The Belle Fourche Reclamation Project is one of the
wonders of the western part of South Dakota. It is not in
the “Hills” proper, but is well worth going to see. We drive
on to Nisland, observing the effects of irrigation as we go.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_60">60</div>
<h2 id="c9">CHAPTER IX
<br />Spearfish</h2>
<div class="img" id="fig56">
<img src="images/p030.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="446" />
<p class="caption">U. S. Government Fish Hatchery at Spearfish</p>
</div>
<p>From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche
to Spearfish. There we find another splendid and modern
camp. We enjoy staying at these camps of which their cities
are justly proud. The cost is the same fifty cents per night
as that of the less developed camps. But the modern toilet
facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community log
cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system
create in the traveler’s heart a warm feeling toward those
cities or towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which
people from all over the United States meet and talk over
experiences is a source of lasting pleasure to the conversational
type. The large cars of eastern manufacturers and
the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota or
the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots
of people gather here and there about the camp or in the
community building and the topic is likely to be anything
from sheep raising in Perkins county or mica mining at Keystone
<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span>
to the workings of the New York Stock Exchange.
Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped
and friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are
neighbors and class spirit does not exist. It would surprise
one how he can broaden his knowledge through these contacts.</p>
<p>No matter whether one’s interest is fishing, swimming,
camping or gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group
in camp.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig57">
<img src="images/p030a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="455" />
<p class="caption">Lookout Mountain near Spearfish</p>
</div>
<p>The United States trout hatchery is located beside the
Spearfish camp, just across the bridge to the south. Here
the United States government maintains tanks in which they
raise several varieties of trout. There is a different size in
each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout to the
sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for
just one chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow
beauties are a sight to behold. If one can get around there
at feeding time he will behold a still greater treat.</p>
<p>Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent
little swimming pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek.
A swim in one of these clear mountain streams is a rare treat.
The visitor in the “Hills” should plan to indulge as often as
possible.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_62">62</div>
<div class="img" id="fig58">
<img src="images/p031.jpg" alt="" width="597" height="999" />
<p class="caption">Spearfish Creek, Lead, S. D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_63">63</div>
<div class="img" id="fig59">
<img src="images/p031a.jpg" alt="" width="460" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Maurice, In Spearfish Canyon<span class="jr">O. A. Vik</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_64">64</div>
<div class="img" id="fig60">
<img src="images/p032.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="801" />
<p class="caption">Bridal Veil Falls</p>
</div>
<p>The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish
Canyon. The road leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into
the mountains and woods over ground owned or leased by the
Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly well worn but
poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is not
one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will
be improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds
over gentle slopes and makes sharp turns. One must drive
under twenty miles per hour and sound his horn often. But
a person does not realize the marvelous beauty that lies hidden
<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span>
in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile or
two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out
and press through the timber until he comes to a place from
which he can view a great expanse of the valley and wall
before he can fully appreciate Spearfish Canyon.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig61">
<img src="images/p032a.jpg" alt="" width="402" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Admiring the Falls</p>
</div>
<p>Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The
car must be parked beside the road and the ascent up the
steep canyon wall continued on foot. The cave lies a quarter
of a mile or so up. The climb to it is steep and part of the
way is over rocks washed by springs.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_66">66</div>
<p>The path leads through dense growths of timber and
shrubs. At last we come to a huge overhanging cliff, below
which is the Wildcat Cave. Over the top of the cliff clear
cold spring water half drips, half runs continually. At various
places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The one little
waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty
feet of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious
he might climb the crags clear to the top of the mountain
on the right.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig62">
<img src="images/p033.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
<p class="caption">Savoy<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we
come to Bridal Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with
not much volume but a great height. Probably it falls 200
feet and is twenty feet wide on the average. The spectacle of
this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace like folds tumbling
over the succeeding layers of rock make unquestionably
the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop at
its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div>
<div class="img" id="fig63">
<img src="images/p033a.jpg" alt="" width="476" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Multiplex Falls</p>
</div>
<p>From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to
the Spearfish hydro-electric water flume. Above that is
Roughlock Falls and the Homestake hydro-electric plant, and
<span class="pb" id="Page_68">68</span>
we must not forget Latchstring Inn. Foolish is the visitor
who turns back before seeing all of these, if weather conditions
permit.</p>
<p>After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence
fifteen miles over into Wyoming. We could go on west to
Devil’s Tower, but that would mean a long trip. So we just
cross the State line and return. Here the fun begins for us.
The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever increasing.
We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood
this evening, and accordingly break camp and set out.
We have gone a few miles when the rain comes down in torrents.
Fortunately the roads are good, but we have to drive
with the windshield cleaner working constantly. We enjoy
the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain.</p>
<p>We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn
south on U. S. 85 for another five miles. On the way we come
to Preacher Smith’s monument. This has been erected in
honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood’s first minister.</p>
<p>The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the
first settlers when gold was discovered. He preached to whoever
would listen to him. One day he headed for the vicinity
of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was advised not to
start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted that
his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument
stands near where the Indians killed him. Several authors
have told the story of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested
in the story should by all means read it from some authentic
source.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_69">69</div>
<h2 id="c10">CHAPTER X
<br />Pine Crest Camp</h2>
<p>The road from Spearfish rises gradually. At the highest
point on the road, thirteen miles from Spearfish, the entrance
to Pine Crest Camp comes into view. This is a really
beautiful camp. It is one hundred per cent what its name
implies.</p>
<p>A camp built over one of the tent floors is comfortable
even in rainy weather. However, if experience is any teacher,
it might be said that trying to sleep under a hole in the
tent roof on a rainy night is a pleasure only to the other
fellow.</p>
<p>In the evening, after camp is built and dinner served, a
walk to the community house proves a worth while venture.
Pine Crest gives us the heartiest welcome of any place in the
“Hills.” In the log community house, (it is a masterpiece
of masterpieces), a cheerful fire awaits. The ample stone
fireplace seems doubly welcome on a rainy night. Does it
feel good? Say!</p>
<p>In the cabin are gathered a group of high school girls
from Lead, a family from Kansas City, a Canadian, some
Ohio people, Texans and several others. And a jolly time we
have. Stories starts the program. Music follows and a lively
community dance tops it off. The atmosphere is that of one
great big family gathered together after a long separation.</p>
<p>Under the cabin, in a well finished basement are modern
toilet rooms, a laundry, and shower baths. There is both hot
and cold water. The whole is free to the tourists who are
camped in the park. The initial fifty cents a night covers
the entire cost.</p>
<p>Our enjoyable evening draws to a close and we return
to the tent for a good night’s rest.</p>
<p>The experiences from now on are to be on historic
ground.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_70">70</div>
<div class="img" id="fig64">
<img src="images/p034.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="763" />
<p class="caption">Community House—Pine Crest Park—Deadwood, S.D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_71">71</div>
<h2 id="c11">CHAPTER XI
<br />Lead</h2>
<p>Pine Crest proves to be such a good camp that we decide
to make it our headquarters for a day or two. In the morning
we put up a lunch and drive over to Lead. Of course the
first and foremost point of interest in Lead is Homestake
Mine. We stop at the Burlington Railway station and register
for the trip through the mine buildings. It is only a few
moments before we are ready to start.</p>
<p>We follow our young lady guide up a steep incline. Half
way up she stops us and asks us to face about. Clear across
the gulch on the opposite side of town is a huge cut, where
the hill is virtually cut in two. This, she tells us is the site
of the first mine, a surface working. We are told that
$20,000,000 worth of gold came from this cut.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig65">
<img src="images/p034a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="493" />
<p class="caption">Homestake Mills, Lead, S.D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_72">72</div>
<p>We go on up the hill to the Ellison shaft, the one now
being used most extensively. There the ore is coming up
from the 2300 foot level, by hoists and seven ton cars. It is
dumped into a conveyor belt, and passes the pickers. We
go next to see the giant air compressors for maintaining circulation
of air in the mines.</p>
<p>The hoist room contains large drums driven by 1400
horse power electric motors working on direct current. These
huge affairs bring the heavy cars up from the mine in a very
short time. Their speed and precision are remarkable, considering
their enormous size. The room is immaculate.</p>
<p>From the hoist room we go to the shop where diamond
drills are sharpened. These are tubular bars of hard iron,
with hollow centers, and sharp edges on one end in the form
of a cross. They are used with the electric drill down the
mine, working on the plan of the electric riveter. When dull
these points are brought to the surface, pounded into shape
in a trip hammer, while white hot, and tempered very hard.</p>
<p>The motor generator which is driven by alternating current
and delivers direct current is a huge affair. It has to
be in order to develop enough direct current to drive the
heavy machinery. Its flywheel alone weighs thirty-five tons.</p>
<p>In the blacksmith shop all of the blacksmith work of
the mine is done. Repairs are made, castings are made, gears
are cut, and iron is pounded into shape. A pair of shears is
cutting iron ¾ inch thick for a boiler. The ease with which
it goes through this mass is astounding. Lathes are plaining
blocks of iron or gears into shape. These lathes are cutting
shavings a half-inch thick. In the molding room molten
iron is being poured into casts, covered with sand, and allowed
to cool.</p>
<p>Now comes the real gold mill. The first part we come to
is the rock crusher or rod mills. From the rod mills the material
is taken to the stamper, where it is mixed with water.
The solution passes to dewatering cones and cleaner troughs.
Rod mills crush the ore to powder, which, with water makes
a mud. The mud passes through troughs containing mercury.
Most of the gold leaves the mud and clings to the mercury.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_73">73</div>
<p>The remaining solution goes to sand slime separation
cones and then to cyanide tanks. The tanks are filled with
mud. The water drains off. Cyanide is poured over the
mass. The cyanide sinks, carrying the remaining gold of the
crushed ore to the bottom with it. This is reclaimed and the
mud is washed out and sent down the gulch.</p>
<p>The trip is an interesting one. The guide now tells us
that the gold is molded into bricks worth twenty-five to thirty
thousand dollars. Approximately sixteen are made each
month.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig66">
<img src="images/p035.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="431" />
<p class="caption">B & M. Shop #2<br />One of the buildings of the Homestake Mining Company’s<br />Lead, S.D.</p>
</div>
<p>Quoting from literature distributed by the mining company
the following might be of interest:</p>
<p>“The Black Hills are highly mineralized, containing practically
every known element to a greater or lesser degree.
Lead is the home of the Homestake mining company, the
largest gold mining concern in the world. The company has
been running continuously since 1877 and has taken from the
ground approximately 56,000,000 tons of ore yielding $200,000,000
of gold (now over $212,000,000.) In order to produce
an annual output of $6,000,000 about 2,000 men are
steadily employed. The average daily output is 43500 tons,
or 1,750,000 tons annually. There is enough ore blocked out
to furnish the mills with this many tons a day for nine years.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_74">74</div>
<p>“More than 1,554,117 pounds, or 3,108,234 sticks of 40%
dynamite was used in 1927, costing over $500 a day. In 1927,
3,816,724 feet or over 722 miles of fuse was used. If this
were in one length it would take 971 days, 21 hours and 22
minutes and 8 seconds for the flame to traverse it. More
than a million blasts were set off during the year.</p>
<p>“The company has never undertaken to furnish houses.
It has, however, encouraged the building of homes by giving
free permits to occupy company ground and by advancing
the purchase price and allowing the employee to pay on
the monthly payment plan with a low rate of interest on
deferred payments. After forty years of continuous operation
as the sole industry of the community there are few
company owned houses in Lead. Under this policy the town
has grown from a typical mining camp with its log cabins
and board shacks, into a modern small city with paved streets,
sewer and water systems, electric lights and beautiful homes,
owned largely by their occupants. The grocer, the butcher,
and the hardware dealer, the clothier and the real estate men
carry on their business in this mining camp as in an ordinary
town of equal size. Keen competition keeps prices at a reasonable
level.</p>
<p>“No part of the welfare work at the Homestake has met
the needs of the people more fully than the free library,
originally a Christmas gift from the late Phoebe H. Hearst in
1894, now carried on through the generosity of her son William
Randolph Hearst, with present quarters on the second
floor of the recreation building. Now the library contains
approximately 14,000 volumes. In the reading room are
eighty periodicals, of which two are foreign. The close proximity
of the high school enables the library to render valuable
assistance to teachers and pupils.</p>
<p>“A smoking room is provided for the men, and the children
have an alcove for their particular use, provided with
low tables and suitable chairs. One end of the stack room
is used for mineral exhibits, especially the minerals of the
Black Hills region.</p>
<p>“The Kindergarten, opened in 1900, is also maintained
by the generosity of the Hearst family.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_75">75</div>
<p>“A small, but well kept park nearby provides a place
for outdoor play during the summer months. The kindergarten
has been an inestimable aid to the public school by
giving the children of foreign birth a start in the English
language and teaching them something of American ways and
manners, thus relieving them of the handicap resulting from
their foreign parentage. It has also proved a large factor
in Americanizing the parents by both direct and indirect contact
with the teachers.</p>
<p>“The Homestake company, supporting a liberal policy
toward the schools, feels that it is fully repaid by the stabilizing
influence on its working force, due to the fact that men
with families are attracted to Lead on account of its educational
advantages. Many of the young men who are now
holding important positions in the shops, mills, assay and
engineering departments are graduates of the Lead High
School.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig67">
<img src="images/p036.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="417" />
<p class="caption">Old Mine Entrances</p>
</div>
<p>“The Homestake Recreation Building, built and equipped
by the Homestake Mining Company at a cost of $250,000 was
opened to the public in 1914. It is a three story brick and
stone structure of the latest design and well lighted, heated,
and ventilated. No expense is spared to make this the recreation
place of the employes and their families, and all residents
of Lead are given the same privileges as employes, so
<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span>
that it is a community house in the fullest sense. No membership
fee is charged. Everybody is welcome and all are
treated as special guests by the attendants. The only rules
posted are those governing the length of time one set of
players may use the various tables and games, and specifying
the days when the men, women, and children may use the
plunge. The average monthly attendance is about 25,000.</p>
<p>“On the first floor of the building is a large rest room
furnished with easy chairs and lounges with tables for chess,
cards, and other games, and directly in the rear of this room
is the billiard room, with two regulation billiard and two
pocket billiard tables. In alcoves of the rest room are three
tables for children between the ages of six and sixteen.
About 2,500 persons play on these tables during the month.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig68">
<img src="images/p037.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
<p class="caption">Mucking<br />April 21, 1933<br />Homestake Mining Co.<br />Working in the gold mines at Lead</p>
</div>
<p>“Below the rest room is the gymnasium and a bowling
alley of six alleys equipped with automatic pin setters. Over
2,000 persons use these alleys each month, including the
ladies who have one day each week. The gymnasium is well
equipped, and is also used by two bands as a practice room.</p>
<p>“In the rear of the rest room, and with a separate street
entrance is a well furnished theatre with a seating capacity
of 1,000. Moving pictures are shown both afternoon and
<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span>
evening, with road shows and vaudeville when available. The
average monthly attendance is about 20,000.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig69">
<img src="images/p037a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="471" />
<p class="caption">A view in the cyanide plant of the gold mining plant at Lead</p>
</div>
<p>“Under the theatre auditorium and directly in the rear
of the bowling alley is a tank 25×75 feet with a depth of
water ranging from 4 to 9 feet. The plunge and floor are
lined with white tile. Change rooms, shower baths, and hair
driers are provided for the bathers. The water is heated,
filtered, disinfected, and changed frequently. The plunge is
patronized by approximately 1800 persons per month, about
equally divided among men, women, girls, and boys.</p>
<p>“A small room called the sun room, because of its particularly
sunny exposure, is used as a meeting place by various
clubs, societies, and committees.</p>
<p>“There is no charge for the use of any part of the building
to Homestake employees and their families, or to residents
of Lead, except for the theatre where a nominal charge is
made to cover the cost of pictures and other attractions.</p>
<p>“The company erected at a cost of more than $60,000
a thoroughly modern brick hospital of thirty-five bed capacity
which furnishes absolutely free to its employees and
their dependents every type of medical, surgical and obstetric
<span class="pb" id="Page_78">78</span>
treatment. No charge is made for any hospital care, operating
fees, or for medicines.</p>
<p>“The employees and dependents make very great use of
this service as shown by the 1922 annual report. Forty-three
thousand people were taken care of in the dispensary, fourteen
thousand visits were made at the homes and one hundred
forty-three confinements were handled.”</p>
<p>The Homestake Employees Aid association is an organization
to help the employees. Also:</p>
<p>“The company retires its old employees on account of old
age, physical disability, giving them 25% of last year’s full
pay plus $10.00 per year for each year’s service with the
company, but in all not to exceed $600 per year.</p>
<p>“There were 64 men (1928) receiving pensions of from
$350 to $600 per year. The average age of those receiving
pensions, at the time of retirement was over 65 and the average
years service is nearly thirty-one.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig70">
<img src="images/p038.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
<p class="caption">Weighing Gold Bricks in the assay office</p>
</div>
<p>“A pension is also paid to the widows of new men who
lost their lives by accident prior to the enactment of the state
compensation law.</p>
<p>“Every effort is made, both in the mine and in the surface
plants to provide sanitary working conditions. Bubbling
<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span>
drinking fountains are placed in convenient places both underground
and in the mills and shops, and provided with clear,
cold, wholesome water. Clean, well heated and ventilated
change rooms are provided with hot and cold water and individual
lockers for clothes. A special underground latrine
is used in the mine. Ventilation of the underground workings
is carefully supervised.</p>
<p>“Seventy-five per cent of the Homestake employees are
English speaking nationalities. In the other twenty-five Italians
predominate.</p>
<p>“Many religious denominations are represented in Lead,
and most of them have an organization and a place of worship.
The Homestake company makes a yearly contribution
of $200 to each church holding regular services, and renders
other material aid in various ways.”</p>
<div class="img" id="fig71">
<img src="images/p038a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="517" />
<p class="caption">Tourist Camp</p>
</div>
<p>Thus we see that South Dakota, and more specifically
Lead has an industry not only of enormous size but with the
most modern and progressive practices known to civilization.
A trip through it is enough to stimulate the imagination
rather decisively of anyone mechanically or industrially inclined.
Here is an organization whose social, industrial, mechanical,
<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span>
and personnel organization is worked out and administered
on modern scientific principles, with the interests and
safety of its employees ever in the fore.</p>
<p>From the mine we go up the hill through Lead to “Mile
High Camp,” where we eat lunch. This camp is a very nice
camp of little earlier date than some of the others. Jubilee
camp on the West branch of U. S. 85, just on the edge of
town is another good camp. It is situated on a very high
point, overlooking Lead on one side and beautiful tree covered
mountains, cliffs and valleys, on the other.</p>
<p>We follow U. S. 85 toward Cheyenne Crossing and Newcastle.
The road leads through Icebox Canyon. This canyon
was properly named. Even on this hot July day it is very decidedly
cool. In addition, it is a beautiful drive. The tall
stately pines have almost a noble look to them.</p>
<p>The road leads over long gradual grades, up hills and
through valleys. There are camps and cabins along this
route, and the trout fishing is good. Icebox Springs, is a very
cold spring six miles from Lead and 6270 feet above sea level.
Here we get a drink of clear, cold water, maintained as such
without the aid of refrigeration. The spring pours right out
of the side of the canyon. Terry Peak, within 200 feet of the
same height as Harney, rises a short distance from the trail.</p>
<p>This again is historical ground. In the early days the
Deadwood-Cheyenne stage and treasure coaches traveled over
this route. Here were the scenes of the early hold-ups, fights
with bandits, and murders of the stage people.</p>
<p>Here was the testing ground of civilization. To see the
present Black Hills one could hardly believe that less than
fifty years ago it went through the wild formative period of
outlawry, Indian fighting, and the gold rush. Cheyenne Crossing
is but a couple of small cabins, a sort of outpost. Here
we turn about and return to “Pine Crest.”</p>
<p>From Lead we take the old mines road back to Deadwood.
This leaves town near Jubilee camp, making a loop to the
north. Along the road, just out of Lead are cabins variously
named: “Travellers Rest,” “Tramp Inn,” “Saloon,” “Bucket
o’Blood,” “Haven of Rest,” etc.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_81">81</div>
<p>Along this road we see remains of old placer mines, mining
mills, and various other remains of early mining. Most
of them are now abandoned. Nevertheless one can imagine
the life that must have been enacted here a few decades ago.
Central City, and other former thriving cities are now but
vestiges of what was once the splendor of Deadwood Gulch.
Now, only an occasional inhabitant and a number of run
down buildings remain.</p>
<p>It is almost marvelous to think that a country could
pass from the extreme of an outlaw West to the highly modern
civilization that Lead and Deadwood present today. No
place on earth but the progressive pioneer western community
with its fertile and indomitable brains could do it.</p>
<p>At the camp that night part of the crowd of the previous
night is present, and quite a number of new people. Another
very enjoyable evening is spent.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig72">
<img src="images/p039.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="700" height="520" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_82">82</div>
<div class="img" id="fig73">
<img src="images/p040.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="641" />
<p class="caption">Deadwood, today. Located in Deadwood Gulch. Scene of the most exciting of Gold Rush Episodes</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div>
<h2 id="c12">CHAPTER XII
<br />Deadwood</h2>
<p>In Deadwood, the next morning we take our way to the
Franklin Hotel, then south, over the railroad tracks to Mt.
Moriah Cemetery. We are now, indeed on historic ground.
Probably it would be well to reiterate some of the setting before
going up to the cemetery to view the resting place of the
famous early characters.</p>
<p>Deadwood was settled in 1876. When gold was discovered
here approximately 25,000 people rushed for Deadwood.
Rumor, brought to us through the years, says that within
twenty-four hours after the city of Custer heard of the Deadwood
gold discovery its population had decreased from between
six and ten thousand to less than a hundred people.
They left on horseback, on foot, by ox team, by stage, and by
wagon, taking camping and mining equipment with them, and
stores of food.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig74">
<img src="images/p040a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="465" />
<p class="caption">Richard Wm. Clark, and his original cabin<span class="jr"> Bell Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_84">84</div>
<p>Deadwood was transformed from a gulch full of dead
timber to a lawless city. The one aim of everybody was gold.
Some got it in the thousands of industrious mining projects,
most of them one man or a few men placer mines. Some
got it by selling food and supplies, some got it by gambling,
and some by robberies. Deadwood was in a state of wild
chaos.</p>
<p>Preacher Smith, or Henry Weston Smith “drifted in”
about this time. He had come from the East with the Custer
gold rush and had migrated north to Deadwood, on foot,
at the time of the discovery and boom there. He preached
in the street mostly. He was a Methodist, about forty years
of age, and of fine physique, quiet and unassuming.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig75">
<img src="images/p041.jpg" alt="" width="452" height="801" />
<p class="caption">Deadwood Dick<span class="jr">Bell Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_85">85</div>
<div class="img" id="fig76">
<img src="images/p041a.jpg" alt="" width="484" height="800" />
<p class="caption">The Roosevelt Monument near Deadwood</p>
</div>
<p>On August 20, 1876, Smith started for Crook City to
preach a sermon. He left a note that he would be back at
3:00 P. M. if God were willing. But God had planned otherwise.
The Indians killed him on the way. His body was discovered
soon afterward and was brought to Deadwood. His
remains now rest in Mt. Moriah Cemetery above Deadwood,
while his monument stands near where he was killed.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_86">86</div>
<p>Wild Bill came to Deadwood in June, 1876. He was not,
as his name might indicate, a desperado, but rather a refined
enforcer of law and order. His full name was James Butler
Hicock. He had married a widow whose husband had
been shot while attempting to prevent some desperadoes
from forcing an entrance to his wagon show. Wild Bill travelled
with the show to protect it and finally married the
widow. With the gold rush he was drawn to Deadwood. His
wife remained in Cheyenne.</p>
<p>Wild Bill earned his name by his expert pistol shooting.
Before coming to the Black Hills he had been employed as
a government scout, as a hunter of horse thieves, and as a
gunman law enforcer. He had been hired by Abilene, Kansas,
at $1,000 a month to clean up the town, and later by Ft.
Hayes for the same purpose. His speed on the draw saved
his life many times.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig77">
<img src="images/p042.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="414" />
<p class="caption">An Enjoyable drive along a Black Hills Creek</p>
</div>
<p>The law respecting faction in Deadwood finally decided
to organize some form of local government. They did so and
Wild Bill was suggested for chief of police. The rougher
lawless element notified him that he would be shot if he did
not leave town. His friends tried to get him to leave, but
he was determined to stay. A notorious outlaw stole quietly
through the side door of a saloon where Bill was playing
cards, drew his gun, and shot Bill through the back of the
<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span>
head, killing him instantly. The assassin was tried by his
friends, acquitted, and permitted to leave the state. He was
soon re-arrested, convicted, and hanged.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig78">
<img src="images/p042a.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="801" />
<p class="caption">Wedge Rock</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_88">88</div>
<p>Wild Bill is Deadwood’s idol. On his gun at the time of
his death there were thirty-six notches all alleged to have
been in self defences and law enforcement. His remains, too,
are interred in Mt. Moriah Cemetery. A Johnny Riordian
chiseled statues of Preacher Smith and Wild Bill both of
which now stand at the head of their respective graves.</p>
<p>Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary) was a woman
whose life was interwoven with the early history of the Black
Hills. She was an army scout with General Crook, and later
a desperate and notorious character as well as an idol of the
region. Her life story is not that of a self-respecting woman,
and yet her ideals in her attitude toward her fellow
beings were very high. She was always ready to share her
money and provisions with those who needed it. She fought
Indians and desperadoes as unflinchingly as any man. Her
aim saved many a man’s life, especially from the Indians.
Once she had to hold up a store to obtain groceries for a family
who were very ill and out of money. After the family
were nursed back to health Jane went on her way.</p>
<p>Calamity Jane had a deep reverence and respect for Wild
Bill. Her dying request was that she be buried beside him,
and there, today, her grave is to be found. Her funeral was
the largest Deadwood has ever seen.</p>
<p>Not only Deadwood but thousands of visitors climb this
hill to visit the shrine of these three early idols.</p>
<p>Now we proceed up the hill to the cemetery. A good
driver might pilot his car up and down later with comparative
safety, but the hill is very steep, and ascent by foot might
be more advisable.</p>
<p>The cemetery proper is located on the slope of a mountain,
high up, overlooking the city of Deadwood. From the
cemetery a path takes us higher and higher, to the very peak
of the mountain, one mile and six feet high. The peak is of
bare white rocks, and is so named, “White Rocks.” It is over
700 feet higher than the city. The view from here is remarkable.
Hills, valleys, mountains, and cities are visible
from the peak on clear days. Here is a worth while mountain
climb, possible for everyone.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_89">89</div>
<p>After descending from the cemetery we cross Deadwood
Gulch right on main street beside the Franklin hotel. We
take a steep street on the opposite (north) side, and follow a
winding road up Mt. Roosevelt. The road is steep and precipitous,
winding and none too wide, though cars can pass
almost any place with a matter of inches to spare. The lower
part of the road is good, up to the foot-path. But from there
up, if one wishes to go by car the driver requires some skill,
a good horn, and well adjusted brakes. With a little patience,
and a few hazardous looks down the steep mountain sides we
reach the summit. If the foot path is taken the trip is
shorter and less hazardous. These mountain paths are excellent
for exercise, believe it if you can, or try it.</p>
<p>The view from Mt. Roosevelt is probably as good or better
than from any other elevation in the Black Hills. With
field glasses on a clear day one may see four states from
here. On the topmost peak of the mountain stands a monument,
the first ever erected in honor of Theodore Roosevelt.
It is, we are told, erected in the environment and among the
scenes that Roosevelt loved. Visitors are requested to leave
their autographs in a visitor’s book within the tower. One
precaution, do not pick a cold cloudy day to visit Mt. Roosevelt.</p>
<p>After the return to Deadwood we must by all means
spend some time in this metropolis of the interior of the
“Hills.” The gold rush days are not much in evidence. Deadwood
is a modern city and a thriving business center. The
stores, curio shops, and souvenir sellers invite our curiosity,
and are likely to hold us for sometime. The remains of mines,
the slag heaps from smelting days, and the open mine shafts
are indeed curiosities. While in Deadwood we must not forget
the fine municipal bathing pool and park.</p>
<p>Here again we might take the Boulder Canyon road or
leave it as an unseen point of interest.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_90">90</div>
<h2 id="c13">CHAPTER XIII
<br />Pactola, Silver City and Camp Wanzer</h2>
<p>The bed is a welcome place after the mountain climbing.
Somehow the meals and rest afterward add to the satisfaction
of these invigorating and inspirational tramps.</p>
<p>After three enjoyable nights at Pine Crest we leave for
the central part of the Hills. We take S. D. 85 to the left,
just before entering Deadwood. The road is an excellent,
improved highway, bordered by interesting scenery.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig79">
<img src="images/p043.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="495" />
<p class="caption">Lights and Shadows Among the Pines<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>We start the trip with an upward climb of six and a half
miles. This has a tendency somehow to warm up the motor
a bit. Now we follow a mountain top trail. The scenery is
beautiful as we skim along over good roads with gentle grades.
In places the trees are thick, in other places thin. There
are pines, cottonwood, aspen, spruce, and others. In places
forest fires have left a devastated appearance. These sights
<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span>
leave with one a feeling of sadness, that carelessness and
destruction must claim these great potentialities of usefulness
and beauty. They leave with us a deeper resolve to “Put
out campfires before leaving them.”</p>
<p>It is thirty-one miles to Pactola on Rapid Creek. Just
after we cross the creek and before crossing the railroad we
turn to the right, following the creek, and drive up to Silver
City. As near as we can find out they do not mine silver
here. The place is a group of log cabins and is used for a
summer resort. It is a beautiful little place.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig80">
<img src="images/p043a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="472" />
<p class="caption">A Log Cabin<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Going up the creek we take a winding road, almost a
path. Along this road are many church and other camps.
We come to Camp Wanzer a few miles beyond Silver City in
Bear Canyon.</p>
<p>Camp Wanzer is not a tuberculosis camp. It is a camp
for building up physically run-down children. No one with
tuberculosis or other communicable disease is admitted. The
plan is to have the children live out here away from vices
and irregularities of city life, where proper hours, food, exercise
and supervision may build up their run-down bodies.
The records show remarkable results. Children are required
<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span>
to rise at a certain time, observe exercise periods, rest periods,
to eat wholesome meals at regular times and to sleep enough
each night. They have a nice swimming hole, too. The children
enjoy the vacation. They are kept for three to six
weeks, and in practically every case leave there stronger and
happier than when they came. A person is highly impressed
with what this camp means to these children. There were
fifty-five there in 1928. Children come from all parts of the
state. Parents pay for it where they can and the Christmas
seals sale pays for the rest. After seeing where our Christmas
seal proceeds go we are ever so much more willing and
even anxious to contribute to the fund.</p>
<p>We again follow a beautiful mountain stream, Spring
Creek, through Sheridan and down to Hill City. Along the
road we find some real rock cliffs running up several hundred
feet and we can here see the plan of the rock layers,
thrown in, tilted on edge, the formation which is general
throughout the Black Hills. At Sheridan there is a good
looking tourist camp, including cabins.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_93">93</div>
<h2 id="c14">CHAPTER XIV
<br />Hill City and Keystone</h2>
<p>We put up for the night in one of the Hill City cabins.
These are not in some ways as nice as some of the others,
but are very comfortable nevertheless. We must try the
cabins by all means while in the Hills. Most of them cost a
dollar a night. In them, generally are a bed or two, a cook
stove, table and cooking utensils, with possibly other conveniences
including stove wood.</p>
<p>Hill City is in the heart of the Black Hills. It has excellent
connections with various cities, fishing grounds and
places of scenic interest. Sylvan Lake is nine miles distant,
Rapid City 20, Deadwood 40, Custer 15 and the Game Lodge
27. Hill City is only a small place, but it is an “up and
coming” progressive little town. They believe in advertising,
and a few of its citizens are rather farsighted in their attitude
toward visitors. The tourist park is not like some of the
rest, but it affords shelter and many conveniences. In a few
years it will be coming to the front.</p>
<p>We have not been in Hill City long before the “filling
station information bureau” tell us that no trip to the Hills
is complete without a visit to the Keystone mines and Rushmore
Mountain. So, for them we start. Keystone is about
ten miles from Hill City. We leave town at the north end,
over the railroad tracks, headed due east. The road is very,
very winding. It follows the valley of Battle Creek, going up
and down over small hills, tributary springs and streams, and
around rocks. It crosses the railroad no less than sixteen
times in the ten miles, two times under the track.</p>
<p>Covering the entire road and surface of the hills is a
layer of powdered mica. One must pinch himself to see if he
is actually living and awake and not riding along over the
<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span>
streets of gold in the hereafter. Maybe some of us had better
take a good look, for our streets in the next life may be of
coal dust or cinders.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig81">
<img src="images/p044.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="733" />
<p class="caption">White Tail Buck</p>
</div>
<p>We stop along the road to collect a few specimens of the
rocks of this vicinity. We hope that we may pick up some
rose colored quartz, the rock that is most popular for decorative
purposes in the “Hills.” Here an unexpected pleasure
awaits us. A young fawn is standing across the ravine
watching us innocently. When we discover it we cannot help
<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span>
turning to stare, rapt in wonder. Soon a doe, then another,
and behind them two bucks and more emerge from a thicket.
One of the bucks raises his front foot and points his muzzle
toward us. The whole herd turn and bound gracefully out
of sight. It is a scene that will long remain in our memories.</p>
<p>Trout fishing is good in Battle Creek and Slate Creek
on the other side of Hill City.</p>
<p>Just before reaching Keystone we turn up a side road to
the right. We come to two very impressive log houses.
These, we decide, are just the type we would like to build for
ourselves. We drive in and ask the man in the yard what a
house like that would cost. Imagine our chagrin when he
tells us the houses belong to the millionaire owner of the Etta
Lithia Mine, one of the larger mines of the Hills. The large
house is the house in which the owner lives for two weeks
each summer.</p>
<p>It cost $6,000, we are told. On the inside we find all sorts
of fishing and other sporting equipment. There is a beautiful
hardwood floor in the house, running spring water, soft
rain water from a cistern, a fireplace in each room, rustic
furniture with bark still on, and even twin beds.</p>
<p>The other cabin is only slightly less in finish and equipment,
it being the residence of the manager of the mine.
The owner lives in New Jersey. The sight of these is highly
inspirational to those who appreciate this sort of life.</p>
<p>Upon invitation of the manager we go up into the hills
to the mine. The road is well improved; it must be to carry
the great truck loads of ore in all kinds of weather. After a
little driving we round a bend in the road and gaze upon a
great ridge of white quartz, probably nearly a hundred feet
high. As one gazes at it he ponders upon the enormous
potential wealth of this heap, if it could be put to use. Rumor
tells us that a glass factory for the Black Hills is not out of
reason and will probably soon be a reality.</p>
<p>At present this quartz is an undesirable stuff which must
be separated from the mineral and piled into great scrap
heaps. We climb the slope to the top of the ridge where a
tunnel leads to the open cut spodumene mine.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_96">96</div>
<p>But before going to the top we might look into the opening
of the old underground mine.</p>
<p>A narrow gauge railroad runs into the tunnel. A warning
is posted against the entrance. A gaze into the tunnel
however, makes one think the walls are lined with gold. But
on closer examination the gold turns out to be mica in very
fine flakes.</p>
<p>On the top of the quartz pile, just outside the top tunnel
or the one from the open cut another narrow gauge railroad
takes the quartz to the end of the dump pile in small ore cars.
Following the short tunnel through a hill we come to the mine
proper. It is just a huge hole in the ground, not now worked,
from which the ore was taken with dynamite, picks, shovels
and derricks. The useful ore, valued at about fifty dollars a
ton, stands in the layers of quartz and granite at a tipsy
angle, like huge tree trunks of pure white. The sight is
really worth seeing. Spodumene is a substance resembling
grained rock embedded in quartz and mica but soft enough to
be crushed in the hand. It is raised from the cut, emptied
into cars and carried through the tunnel where it is dumped
into a long chute. When the chute gets filled up, trucks back
under the gate at the lower end, fill up with the mineral
and take it to the railroad cars at Keystone. From here it is
shipped east, where lithium oxide is made of it for storage
batteries.</p>
<p>Going from the Etta Mine up, over the next rise, we
come to the Juga Feldspar Mine. This, too, is an open cut
mine in the top of a mountain.</p>
<p>The feldspar, used for enamel in lining bathtubs and
making dishes, is found, mined, loaded and shipped much as
is the lithia. Valuable by-products of the mine, mica,
tourmaline and lepidolite and others are found in small quantities.</p>
<p>Back through the valley we go and up the opposite slope
to a mica mine. This, too, is an open cut, the men working
in the shade of a large tarpaulin awning. Slabs of mica varying
from small scraps to large sheets are all loaded in the
chute, hauled to Keystone and shipped east.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_97">97</div>
<div class="img" id="fig82">
<img src="images/p045.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="473" />
<p class="caption">Rushmore Mountain, near Keystone. Upon the abrupt face of this mountain Borglum, the sculptor, is carving the Statues of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
</div>
<p>We go down from the mines and take a winding road up
to Rushmore Mountain. On the way we try fishing. Here one
of the most exasperating experiences of the trip takes place.
I peered into the clear stream and spied a beautiful speckled
<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span>
beauty of somewhat larger than average proportion. Carefully
I sent a fly up to him, but he was not interested. I
tried every fly I had with the same result. Then I sent him
a nice, fresh, green grasshopper, then a yellow one. Mr.
Trout never batted an eye. I then offered him a frog leg.
He only wagged his tail as though amused. The last resort
was a nice juicy worm. I trailed it down the stream until it
bumped him on the nose. That dumb trout was too lazy to
even open his mouth. Possibly I misjudge him. He may
have just had lunch, but at any rate he should have shown
some interest in an extra bite. Well, I decided that if he was
going to have his laugh on me, I’d get even with him.</p>
<p>I took my fishing rod and gave him a real poke in the
ribs. I had the satisfaction of seeing him wake up rather
hurriedly and disappear upstream.</p>
<p>On the way up to Rushmore we see a large leaning rock
with a tree growing out of the top of it. This is only one of
the phenomena of the “Hills” that fires the curiosity of the
visitor.</p>
<p>The road up to Rushmore is on a mountain facing the
one being carved. It is steep and winding. Cars go up several
miles, but it is quite a climb. At the top is a long cable
over which supplies are transported to the top of Rushmore.
The carving is just begun. It has been discontinued for lack
of funds, much to the regret of the people of the “Hills” and
of South Dakota. If the work is finished it will be a monument
of no mean calibre and a shrine for tourists. We did
not take the footpath to the top, though such can be done.
By climbing the steep precipitous crags facing it one gets a
remarkable view of the grand and majestic bald peak.</p>
<p>From Rushmore we go on to Keystone. On the road we
see abandoned gold mines and some still running. Within
the town we come to the Keystone Consolidated Mines. At
present they operate three gold mines with the main mill,
the Columbia, the Keystone and the Holy Terror. Two stories
are told of the naming of the last. One is that its inaccessibility
clear up in the mountain top is responsible. The other
is that the discoverer’s wife insisted that he name the mine
after her. The miner went to take out his claim and when
<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span>
he returned he answered, to his wife’s insistent queries, “yes,
he had named the mine after her,” and he showed her the
papers.</p>
<p>Going on through Keystone we stop at a miner’s house,
and he shows us many kinds of ore including tin, tourmaline,
spodumene, copper, topaz, several kinds of quartz, gold, ruby
studded rocks and so on. We cross the creek then and pick
up our own specimens of rubies.</p>
<p>Now we go back to Hill City and from there up a long
gradual incline into the most noted scenic spot of the Black
Hills.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig83">
<img src="images/p046.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="474" />
<p class="caption">Rugged Formations</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_100">100</div>
<h2 id="c15">CHAPTER XV
<br />Needles Road, Sylvan Lake, Harney and the Gorge</h2>
<p>The road winds through the needle rocks, amid beautifully
vegetated valleys and mountains to Sylvan Lake.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig84">
<img src="images/p047.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="440" />
<p class="caption">Cathedral Spires. Granite peaks in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>These roads are the much talked of feats of engineering
skill. We can easily see why they are so considered. No
barrier, no matter how formidable has proved indominable.
In some places the road is merely a shelf on the side of a
mountain. The rock is blasted out and the nice wide road, the
perfect replica of our modern prairie highways, surfaced, is
superimposed upon it. Slopes are gradual, the road wide
enough for safety anywhere, and every other means of convenience
to motorists has been considered. In one place there
are possibly a half dozen switchbacks making it possible for
a person to ascend a high mountain by gradual ascent on the
shelf-like road, switchback and ascend more, almost straight
above the road over which he has just come. You can look
over the brink of the chasm and see several laps of the road
up which you have come, and can look above and see the
shelves built up there, over which you are to go before you
reach the top. Marvelous, indeed, are the means that man
through the divine guidance of a higher Being, we are forced
to believe, has devised for overcoming the seemingly impossible
problems. And the view from the road is marvelous.
The great majestic stone mountains, the broad, deep, beautiful
valleys, the swift tumbling mountains streams, fed by
mountain springs, the so-called Needles, and last the sense of
conquering all these, affords a feeling almost beyond description
to the soul of the traveler.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_101">101</div>
<div class="img" id="fig85">
<img src="images/p047a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="442" />
<p class="caption">The “Needles Highway” in Custer State Park</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig86">
<img src="images/p047b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="380" />
<p class="caption">The Switchback on the Needles Road<br />A highway among the Needles of the Black Hills<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_102">102</div>
<div class="img" id="fig87">
<img src="images/p048.jpg" alt="" width="464" height="801" />
<p class="caption">Stop on Needles Highway</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig88">
<img src="images/p048a.jpg" alt="" width="463" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Through Iron Creek Tunnel</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig89">
<img src="images/p048b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="416" />
<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake, as you round the turn</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_103">103</div>
<div class="img" id="fig90">
<img src="images/p048c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="494" />
<p class="caption">A Horseshoe Turn, Needles Road<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<p>We drive down through heavily wooded roads to the lake,
the most widely advertised place in the Black Hills. Sylvan
Lake is about a half mile in length, located right in the top of
the mountains. It owes its size to the fact that its north
end is made up of a dam filling the gorge through which the
water tumbled in its course from its mountain streams,
through Sunday Gulch to Spring Creek.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_104">104</div>
<div class="img" id="fig91">
<img src="images/p049.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="588" />
<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake, and the Cliffs</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_105">105</div>
<p>The lake is a beautiful one, bounded by tall, cold, gray
stones, majestically reaching for the sky, and fringed with
luxuriant forest trees. On one side of the lake is the Sylvan
Lake Hotel and on the other side is the camp grounds. The
Indians have named the lake “Karanip” or “Tear of the
Mountain.” We go directly to the camp grounds and get
settled for the night. The camp is not overequipped with
conveniences, but is nevertheless a good camp, with a little
store conveniently close.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig92">
<img src="images/p049a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="416" />
<p class="caption">The Swans</p>
</div>
<p>We go to bed early so that we may get up early for the
ascent of Harney Peak. Even with the early retiring three
A. M. comes rather soon. But we are all life as soon as we
awaken and we lose no time. Well shod we begin the ascent.
This is to be an event. The climb covers three miles and a
half. You’ll be ready to agree with me after making it,
though these Black Hills people are very generous in the
size of their miles. We start up the road marked “Harney
Peak.” We could take our car part way, but the short distance
and rough road makes this a poor policy.</p>
<p>We soon come to the stables where burros and ponies
can be hired by those not wishing to make the trip on foot.
These are not for the early or the ambitious. We pass them
by.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_106">106</div>
<div class="img" id="fig93">
<img src="images/p050.jpg" alt="" width="970" height="600" />
<p class="caption">Reflection at Sylvan Lake<span class="jr">Stevens</span></p>
</div>
<p>The path soon begins to ascend. Progress becomes slower.
The perfect road narrows into a footpath cut through
the timber.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_107">107</div>
<div class="img" id="fig94">
<img src="images/p050a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="514" />
<p class="caption">Cathedral Spires, from Harney Peak<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig95">
<img src="images/p050b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="503" />
<p class="caption">Harney Peak, Lookout Station, and Peak Inn<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_108">108</div>
<p>Up, up we go. At places the timber clears, giving us a
grand view of the surrounding country. Then we plunge into
the forest again and continue up, up, up. At the end of a
mile or so we top a ridge and are relieved to begin descending
into a shallow valley. This is a rest and encouraging. At the
bottom of the valley is a brooklet of clear spring water. Here
we take a drink before continuing our ascent.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig96">
<img src="images/p051.jpg" alt="" width="458" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Peak Inn<span class="jr">Beard Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Now we begin a real climb. The path is easy and open
and the slope is gradual. But even at that it begins to tax
one’s muscles. Squirrels and chipmunks dart across the path
and gaze at the intruders from a safe perch in the trees. And
some of these trees are giants, probably the largest found in
the Hills. Springs arise here and there along the way. Beautiful
<span class="pb" id="Page_109">109</span>
flowers dot the path. Great gray rocks jut into the air
at intervals. The path is indeed interesting. The coolness
of the forest adds to its entrancing powers.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig97">
<img src="images/p051a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="596" />
<p class="caption">Another View of Harney Peak Look-out Station<span class="jr"> Photo by Beard</span></p>
</div>
<p>By and by the path grows steeper and we begin to take a
switchback course up, up, up. Finally the vegetation thins
out and the surface is mostly rock. We climb the rocks and
at last emerge at the foot of a ladder leading up the crags
where the fire lookout house is located. Up the ladder we go,
and over the rocks toward the top. We catch a glimpse of
the ranger giving us a dirty look as he hurriedly finishes his
breakfast and makes up his bed. We give him plenty of time,
while we gaze in four directions at the remarkable panorama
extending a hundred miles before us. The sun, which we had
expected to see rising, is smiling indulgently at us from far
up in the sky. To the west we see Sylvan Hotel, mountains and
forests. Turning toward the south we find ourselves looking
at the historical Custer and on past into Wyoming. Far, far,
to the south is the border of the hills. Closer are the Needles
and Cathedral Spires and Mt. Coolidge. On to the east, fifty
miles away and more, are the Badlands. Closer Mt. Rushmore
sticks up its head as do various other bald heads. Away
off to the northeast Bear Butte stands alone and to his left
are Roosevelt Peak, Terry Peak and many of our other
friends.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_110">110</div>
<div class="img" id="fig98">
<img src="images/p052.jpg" alt="" width="599" height="1000" />
<p class="caption">The Cliffs, Below Harney Peak, Sylvan Lake, S.D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_111">111</div>
<div class="img" id="fig99">
<img src="images/p052a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="417" />
<p class="caption">One way of climbing Harney</p>
</div>
<p>The view is nothing short of wonderful on a clear day,
but is not as good when the clouds float below us or when the
air is filled with mist. We go on up to the lookout station
and register. Of course, we must ask the ranger our share
of foolish questions. We would not be human if we did not
display our ignorance up here. We just naturally feel that
we must ask some kind of a question to commemorate the
fact that we are up here.</p>
<p>We are now on the highest point in the Black Hills. Not
only this, it is the highest point in the state and greater still,
the highest point in the United States east of the Rocky
Mountains. We are 7,244 feet above sea level and about a
thousand feet above Sylvan Lake. This little house away up
on the top of a rock looks pretty frail beside the boulders
upon which it stands. One would think that a breeze would
blow it over the precipice hundreds of feet straight down.
The house, though, is pretty well established, with heavy steel
cables firmly rooting it to its place. Even at that, they’d
better not hire a forest ranger up there who walks in his
sleep.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_112">112</div>
<div class="img" id="fig100">
<img src="images/p053.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="606" />
<p class="caption">Airplane View of Harney Peak<span class="jr"> Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_113">113</div>
<div class="img" id="fig101">
<img src="images/p053a.jpg" alt="" width="458" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Looking Down the Gorge below Sylvan Lake</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig102">
<img src="images/p053b.jpg" alt="" width="467" height="801" />
<p class="caption">Farther down the Gorge</p>
</div>
<p>We are given a card telling us that in the “Harney National
Forest 20,000,000 board feet of lumber is harvested
annually and through reforestation about 1,587,667,000 board
feet are maintained permanently. 12,000 horses and cattle
and 4,000 sheep graze on the forest annually. The area (net)
<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span>
is 508,000,057 acres. The annual revenue to the United
States is $80,000 and to local counties $20,000. Summer sites
may be secured from the Supervisor at Custer, S. D.”</p>
<p>The lookout away up here is for the purpose of spotting
forest fires.</p>
<p>In the little house are instruments for seeing and exactly
locating fires. By getting the exact angle of fires from two
different stations and telephoning the results its location may
be determined exactly by drawing a line at these angles
from their respective stations. The fire would be where the
lines crossed.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig103">
<img src="images/p054.jpg" alt="" width="469" height="799" />
<p class="caption">Guardian of the Pools, Sylvan Lake, S.D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_115">115</div>
<div class="img" id="fig104">
<img src="images/p054a.jpg" alt="" width="479" height="800" />
<p class="caption">A Canyon in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_116">116</div>
<div class="img" id="fig105">
<img src="images/p055.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="444" />
<p class="caption">Reception Room, Sylvan Lake<span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Well, we are the first up there this morning and now we
prepare to descend. We start down the rocks and meet several
people coming up, they, too, thinking they had been first
up this morning. We must take a few pictures before going
down to convince the folks at home that we’ve climbed Harney.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig106">
<img src="images/p055a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
<p class="caption">Dining Room, Sylvan Lake Hotel, Custer, S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_117">117</div>
<div class="img" id="fig107">
<img src="images/p055b.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="592" />
<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake in the Winter</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_118">118</div>
<p>Down we go, down the ladder and around the corner to
Peak Inn. Here refreshments and souvenirs may be procured.
These have all been brought up the mountain by burroes at
some little expense. An interesting trip, they tell us, is to
make the return trip through Cathedral Spires. We, however,
do not do this.</p>
<p>The descent can be made in a little less time than the
ascent. Some short cuts can be made directly across where
contours and cutbacks had to be made going up. Going down
is decidedly easier than going up. All the way down we meet
puffing folks; some fat, some tall, some carrying babies, all
asking the same question, “How much farther?” Many a
good natured joke is exchanged on the way. We meet troopers
as well as pedestrians. The former seem about as anxious
to reach the top as those walking. Perhaps those experienced
in riding burros and trail ponies understand the
reason for this.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig108">
<img src="images/p056.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="491" />
<p class="caption">You Tell ’em we are Traveling.<br />Tobogganing. Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake, S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_119">119</div>
<div class="img" id="fig109">
<img src="images/p056a.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Looking Down the Toboggan Slide<br />Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_120">120</div>
<p>Seven miles, at least, the round trip is quite a hike, but
for those who can stand it (and this includes most of us), it
is by far the better method of going up. Each one who
makes it feels proud of the accomplishment. One boy about
seven years of age remarked, “By Gawsh, I didn’t need to
make it on any donkey. My own feet are good enough for
me.” Well, we finally come to the stables again. We have
met possibly fifty people going up and more are just starting.
Some burros are all saddled and bridled, sleepily waiting for
the start. Temptation prompts us to mount for a picture,
even though our friends do insist on asking, “Now which is
which?”</p>
<div class="img" id="fig110">
<img src="images/p057.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="526" />
<p class="caption">The Needles Highway. This is indeed a feat of engineering</p>
</div>
<p>We arrive back in camp about five hours after we had
started up. Pancakes, bacon and eggs are awaiting us. The
question “are we hungry?” is a mild way of putting it. Food
seems to disappear like magic, not just a little but great
quantities of it. This little stroll seems to make one ravenously
hungry and we derive genuine satisfaction from this
meal. Somehow our fatigue seems to be appeased with our
hunger.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_121">121</div>
<div class="img" id="fig111">
<img src="images/p057a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="489" />
<p class="caption">“The Switchback” along the “Needles Highway” in Custer State Park</p>
</div>
<p>Now we are ready for an inspection of the lake and its
surroundings. The swans are the first things that draw our
attention. They are beautiful, floating over the silvery surface.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_122">122</div>
<p>Many are the fishermen trying for croppies and trout
from the edge of the lake. Some have substantial strings
of fish, too.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig112">
<img src="images/p058.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
<p class="caption">Custer State Park Highway<br />A typical scene along the Needles Highway</p>
</div>
<p>We take our leisurely way around the lake and find dozens
of cars before the hotel. We join the group who are
inspecting the souvenir shop and the hotel lobby. Both are
interesting; both containing many curios from the hills. The
hotel is especially interesting, and we must by all means take
a meal with its charming host and hostess. We now go back
through a slit in a rock to the gorge behind the dam. The
first thing we see and hear is the water gurgling out of
Gorge Springs and over the dam. From here we pick our
way over the great boulders to the precipice where the water
tumbles into the narrow gorge. What boy or girl or grownup
is not thrilled by the descent, sometimes on foot, sometimes
dangling sometimes crawling between huge rocks (the largest
in the hills) sometimes leaping chasms, through dark holes
around seemingly blind bends, finally emerging on the rocks
far below, without having fallen off the rocks or getting our
feet wet. Oh boy! it’s certainly great. We are now in the
home of the elves. We can follow the stream down, down,
until our view opens out far to the north.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_123">123</div>
<p>We pick our way back and take a new route far up
through the crags, towering above Sylvan Lake. Here again
we get a marvelous view of the surrounding territory. Reluctantly
we descend again, only to climb the crags on the
opposite side of the gorge. Down again, we find our muscles
getting a trifle fatigued.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig113">
<img src="images/p058a.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="799" />
<p class="caption">A Needles Scene<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>We go back to camp near evening, having eaten lunch
in the gorge. Now we get our dinner. Needless to say we
are ready for it. We have packed several days’ experiences
into a day. And it has been a memorable day. We spend the
night and then start over that world’s renowned Needles Highway.
The entrance is made through a gigantic gateway of
towering rocks. A huge tunnel is blasted through one rock.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_124">124</div>
<p>We must drive back to the wide ledge and park our car
while we gaze over the edge of the precipice and past the
great valleys to the high mountains of stone Needles in all
directions. The view is indeed one to remember. The feeling
of the grandeur of nature that this leaves with us is
something that lives with us forever.</p>
<p>We pass on over this remarkable road cut through the
mountain tops. The Needles Highway is all it is reputed to
be. But one must take it slowly and stop to admire it to
fully appreciate it.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig114">
<img src="images/p059.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="800" />
<p class="caption">A Pleasant Drive</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_125">125</div>
<h2 id="c16">CHAPTER XVI
<br />Custer</h2>
<p>We go off to the left a few miles to the State Game
Lodge. This is the famous Summer White House of President
Coolidge. Before we reach it we see a fine group of elk
along the road and another of deer. The latter bound gracefully
into a thicket when we stop to watch them. Along this
road are several tourist camps. Galena and the Game Lodge
are the larger ones.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig115">
<img src="images/p059a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="522" />
<p class="caption">The Switchback on the Needles Road<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_126">126</div>
<div class="img" id="fig116">
<img src="images/p060.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="799" />
<p class="caption">One of the Tunnels</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_127">127</div>
<p>We will leave the game lodge and zoo, however, and take
them in our return from Hot Springs. Accordingly we take
trail 36 back to Custer, about twenty miles. A few miles
before we come to Custer we find a tall stone shaft rising
beside the road. A bronze plate attached to it tells us that
this is a monument erected to the memory of Mrs. Anna D.
Tallent, the first white woman in the Hills. To the right,
down a lane a few rods is a reconstructed replica of the old
Gordon Stockade. The saplings are driven into the ground,
spiked on top, just as the old fort had been. Within the
inclosure are a couple of buildings, one where the Tallents
lived and one where other folks of the party had lived.
French Creek flows just south of the stockade.</p>
<p>Just when gold was discovered in the Hills is a question.
Probably it was before 1850, or shortly thereafter.
One tale runs that a party of sixteen left the California Trail
at Fort Laramie in 1852 because friendly Indians reported
gold in the Black Hills.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig117">
<img src="images/p060a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" />
<p class="caption">Restoration of the old Gordon Stockade built to protect the people from the Indians</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_128">128</div>
<div class="img" id="fig118">
<img src="images/p061.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="446" />
<p class="caption">Deer in the Forest Reserve in South Dakota</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig119">
<img src="images/p061a.jpg" alt="Buffalo" width="800" height="398" />
</div>
<p>The men journeyed north, trying several places to mine
for gold. They got small quantities until they finally ended
up near Deadwood. There the quantity became greater, and
the men were elated. Three of the men started back to tell
the people at Salt Lake City of their good fortune. The remainder
kept on prospecting. One day one of those remaining
went out to shoot a deer for meat. Upon his return the
camp was in flames and the scalps of his comrades dangled
at the ends of poles carried by the Indians. The man made
sure that none of the party remained but himself, and he
started out for the trail to the south. After terrible hardships,
out of matches, with no ammunition left, living off
berries and roots, he arrived at the trail too late for the last
train of the season. His boots were soleless and his clothing
in tatters. He hobbled on, and finally came almost at
death’s door to a Mormon hunting party. They brought him
slowly back to life and strength and he told them his story.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_129">129</div>
<div class="img" id="fig120">
<img src="images/p061b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="378" />
<p class="caption">Record of early gold seekers in Black Hills, 1833-34—forty years before Custer’s expedition to the Hills. Stone found near Spearfish in 1887 and now in possession of State Historical Society, Pierre, South Dakota</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_130">130</div>
<p>The story of Ezra Kind is probably true. His Sandstone
Carved with a jack-knife was found hidden among some rocks
on Lookout Mountain. Indian traditions bear out the story.
Much gold was taken by the Indians when the men were
killed.</p>
<p>The Gordon Stockade party, however, was the party that
started the rush to the Hills. One of General Custer’s mining
engineers Horatio N. Ross found gold along French Creek
near the present city of Custer, on July 27, 1874. William
T. McKay shares honors with Ross. As soon as Custer’s report
came out the government issued orders that no white
people would be permitted to enter the Black Hills until a
treaty could be made with the Indians, for this was guaranteed
a hunting ground for them when the eastern land was
wrested from them.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig121">
<img src="images/p062.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="447" />
<p class="caption">The first cabin built in the Black Hills<br />Now standing in Custer, S.D.</p>
</div>
<p>The Gordon party like many others decided to try to
break through the troops and start mining gold. The party
consisted of twenty-six men, one woman, and her son. They
left Sioux City in October of 1874. They suffered many
hardships in the trip, crossing the Badlands, swimming the
Cheyenne River, and overcoming innumerable difficulties.
They kept ever on, confident that they would all become millionaires
<span class="pb" id="Page_131">131</span>
as a result of the expedition. They met Indians to
whom they had to give much of their food. They finally
struck the Hills near Sturgis and from there took General
Custer’s trail south to Custer City. They arrived on French
Creek December 23, built the stockade, and began panning
for gold. They found paying quantities. In the meantime
the government troops were trying in vain to follow the complicated
trail that the party had purposely planned to lead
them astray. A blizzard set in, finally, obliterating the trail.
The party got together enough gold and on February 6, 1875
Gordon and one of the other men started for Sioux City with
it on horseback. Sioux City went wild upon the arrival of
the men with the bag of gold tied on a saddle horn. They
immediately sent another expedition to the Hills. This party,
however, was taken by government troops and their property
was confiscated.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig122">
<img src="images/p062a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="451" />
<p class="caption">Museum, Custer<span class="jr">O’Neill Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>The Indians reported to the military authorities the
presence of the white people in the Hills, and on April 4, 1875,
the troops found the settlers, and gave them 24 hours to get
ready to leave as prisoners for Fort Laramie, Wyoming.</p>
<p>Three times parts of the expedition tried to escape and
go back to the stockade, but each time they were rearrested
and brought back. The third time, however, they escaped
<span class="pb" id="Page_132">132</span>
while being brought back and succeeded in reaching the stockade.
Mrs. Tallent, herself, finally, the next year succeeded
in returning to Custer, later going to Deadwood and Rapid
City. There she became County Superintendent of Schools.</p>
<p>Miners found their way into Custer from all directions
in 1875 in spite of the government troops. Mining in the
Black Hills had come to stay.</p>
<p>Thus runs the story of the Gordon Stockade and Tallent
monument, and their significance in the early life in the Hills.
Their principals started Black Hills History.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig123">
<img src="images/p063.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="470" />
<p class="caption">The expedition camped in a valley<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>We proceed to the municipal camp upon the hill past the
town, and there pitch our tent. A storm is brewing. We
hurry along, getting dinner over early. Then we go into the
fine community building to get acquainted. There we meet
a young man who has just graduated from the School of
Mines and has accepted a position in the deserts of California
where he is to develop certain mineral deposits owned by a
large corporation of Oakland.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_133">133</div>
<div class="img" id="fig124">
<img src="images/p063a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="442" />
<p class="caption">Placer Mining—Deadwood Gulch<br />Mining gold in the Black Hills in 1876</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig125">
<img src="images/p063b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="453" />
<p class="caption">A Custer street in the Early Days</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_134">134</div>
<p>This young man shows us a case containing 205 minerals.
They include practically all of the world’s minerals except
some of the valuable ones such as diamonds and radium. He
proceeds to tell us the story of the formation of the Hills. He
tells us that in eons past there was a terrific granite upheaval.
The layers were higher than they now are. Gradually
they eroded and mineral bearing ores washed down
between the crevices of granite. This left the great sloping
layers of granite and minerals that we now find.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig126">
<img src="images/p064.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="408" />
<p class="caption">A Typical Log Cabin</p>
</div>
<p>After an interesting evening we retire, just before the
storm breaks. It rains, while we sleep on.</p>
<p>The next morning having heard that log summer cabins
could be built upon land leased from the government, we proceeded
to the offices of the Harney National Forest Service
Supervisor to learn the details. He tells us that the United
States has surveyed sites along several streams, and South
Dakota has done the same in the State Park. These sites
are in the more desirable parts of the Hills, readily accessible
from main roads. The government surveys the land and
stakes out a group of plots in a line. These are leased to
those desiring summer home sites at ten dollars a year, or
fifteen if the site is to be sublet. The forest service marks
certain trees which may be cut and used for making log
cabins. These trees, used for building are sold to the lessee
<span class="pb" id="Page_135">135</span>
at 2½ to 3 cents per lineal foot, depending upon the size.
Thus a cabin amounts to a comparatively few dollars, and
the annual fee is but few more.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig127">
<img src="images/p064a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="746" />
<p class="caption">General Custer’s camp in 1874<span class="jr">Photo by Illinworth, official photographer on the expedition</span><span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>The supervisor shows us maps which are made of the
sites surveyed. Several fine sites are available on Rapid
Creek, Spring Creek, French Creek, Battle Creek, Sunday
Gulch, Sunday Creek, Chinaman’s Gulch, St. Elmo, and Balser
Gulch. They are close to Custer, Hill City, Rapid City, the
<span class="pb" id="Page_136">136</span>
Game Lodge, and Sylvan Lake. Other sites, he informs us,
are available at Spearfish through the Black Hills National
Forest Service’s office.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig128">
<img src="images/p065.jpg" alt="" width="726" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Custer Enroute<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>Cabins have been built on many such sites. They are
made of logs interlocked at the corners and chinked with
oakum or filled with concrete, reinforced with barbed wire.
One cannot help “falling for” them with their rustic construction,
beautiful stone fireplaces, and attractive sites. We cannot
help determining to come back to build a cabin for summer
<span class="pb" id="Page_137">137</span>
and for hunting season. Rustic furniture may be built
for equipment and other features to suit the fancy of the occupant.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig129">
<img src="images/p065a.jpg" alt="" width="632" height="700" />
<p class="caption">The Expedition in Formation<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>We leave the office filled with inspiration and wend our
way toward the old museum cabin. On the way we pass a
cabin built of Black Hills stone mounted in concrete with a
beautiful fireplace of rose quartz, crystals, petrified wood,
petrified moss, mica and tourmaline extending clear to the
<span class="pb" id="Page_138">138</span>
ceiling. The effect is really one of splendor. Within the
house are souvenirs of all kinds made of Black Hills stones,
set in concrete. The place is one that should not be passed
up. The Rose Quartz Soda Fountain is another rare sight.
The whole town is filled with these beautiful mounted stones,
even to the bridge lamp posts.</p>
<p>We reach the little cabin for which we have started and
see the date 1875 on its gable.</p>
<p>Outside the door is a sluice box or pan used in the early
days to pan gold. This is quite a curio. The gold, after going
through a screen made of copper filled with nail holes, was
supposed to stick on the sloping canvas bottom and let the
water on through.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig130">
<img src="images/p066.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="476" />
<p class="caption">Camp on French Creek<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>Within the house is a great collection of early weapons,
seats, pictures, an old wooden tombstone, saddles, implements,
an ox yoke, rocks, horns, stuffed birds and beasts of that
region and on the wall newspaper clippings of the early days.
These relics are worth much time and thought. The newspaper
clippings are colorful accounts of early shootings,
<span class="pb" id="Page_139">139</span>
hangings, holdups and gold discoveries. Interesting? Say,
just start on them and try to tear yourself away.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig131">
<img src="images/p066a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="687" />
<p class="caption">A camp scene<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
</div>
<p>One placard reads in part as follows: “This cabin, the
oldest in the Black Hills, was built by the U. S. troops under
General Crook in 1875. Visitors to the Black Hills were not
welcomed here in those days. The Indians, who then owned
the land, did their best to discourage them from coming and
removed the scalps of such of them as fell into their hands
<span class="pb" id="Page_140">140</span>
to mark their disapproval of their presence here. The U. S.
Army, when they caught any gold seekers attempting to enter
the Hills, burned their wagons and outfits and escorted them
to Fort Laramie as prisoners.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig132">
<img src="images/p067.jpg" alt="" width="682" height="800" />
<p class="caption">What the Black Hills looked like to Custer’s Expedition</p>
</div>
<p>“In spite of all efforts to keep miners from entering the
Hills, many, in less than a year from the time that the discovery
of gold on French Creek had been made by General
<span class="pb" id="Page_141">141</span>
Custer’s expedition, had reached Custer city and were busy
prospecting the country in all directions.</p>
<p>“Then came General Crook with troops and ordered all
the miners who were in the Hills to vacate the country by
August 10, 1875. While the troops were here they built this
cabin, etc., etc., etc.”</p>
<p>We leave the cabin and saunter over to the gold discovery
monument just west of it. This is a beautiful thing of Black
Hills rocks and cement, with a bronze plate upon it denoting
its significance.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig133">
<img src="images/p067a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="520" />
<p class="caption">Community Cabin, Custer</p>
</div>
<p>North of Main Street is the huge log community house,
probably the largest in the Black Hills. It is a gigantic thing
and very impressive. We strike camp at noon and leave town
by the west road. We are taking 85 to Minnekahta and U. S.
18 from there on to Edgemont. Possibly this is an ill-advised
trip, but we make it nevertheless, hoping to see the petrified
forest. In this we are not altogether successful.</p>
<p>We pass the state tuberculosis sanitarium composed of
many pure white buildings. The place is very impressive, but
we do not stop.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_142">142</div>
<div class="img" id="fig134">
<img src="images/p068.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="410" />
<p class="caption">Sawdust Pile, Custer</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig135">
<img src="images/p068a.jpg" alt="" width="462" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Petrified Log, Edgemont</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_143">143</div>
<p>Our next point of interest is the large sawmill beside
the road. The huge blower and sawdust pile seen in the
picture give us some idea of its size. The main rip saws are
in gangs of three cutting boards one and two inches in thickness.
Cross cut blades cut boards into the longest possible
sizes. The bark and refuse slabs are fed into the fire to
make steam to run the plant. We do not see any fine work
or finishing here.</p>
<p>We pass on through Pringle. A short distance from
here we find some interesting specimens which look like petrified
acorns or small nuts embedded in limestone. But the
next is the most peculiar specimen of all. As we cross the
railroad well on the way from Pringle to Minnekahta, there
stands, west of the track, in a pasture, a peculiar beast. It
is made up of a log, with four prongs (branches) resembling
legs. Another log is attached for a head and two root systems
attached for horns. The result, with the addition of a
little paint resembles very much a grotesque elk.</p>
<p>In Edgemont we see huge specimens from the petrified
forest, one tree of solid rock weight 14,370 pounds. The
specimens are remarkable, but we are not destined to see the
petrified forest itself. In Hot Springs later we are to find all
the petrified wood we care to carry home, however. We will
speed back to Minnekahta and thence over U. S. 18 to Hot
Springs.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig136">
<img src="images/p068b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="434" />
<p class="caption">Gray Rocks, Custer, S. D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_144">144</div>
<div class="img" id="fig137">
<img src="images/p069.jpg" alt="" width="468" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium for Old Soldiers</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_145">145</div>
<h2 id="c17">CHAPTER XVII
<br />Hot Springs</h2>
<p>We arrive in Hot Springs late in the afternoon and look
for a cabin for the night. All of them are filled up, so we
look for a camp site. Evans Heights is too steep for our
heavily loaded car, and we drive down to the Municipal Camp.
After pitching camp we attempt to find out what there is
in Hot Springs to see. We find that there is much and accordingly
lay our plans for a big day.</p>
<p>After breakfast the first thing we do is to cross the
railroad track on foot looking for petrified moss and wood.
From the stream bed we get several particularly fine specimens
of the moss. These we cache while we go into a pasture
up the slope across S. D. 79 looking for petrified wood.
Our search is soon rewarded. We find many fine specimens
and return to camp well loaded with stone. The phenomenon
of the mineral water turning vegetation into stone is a peculiar
one.</p>
<p>We next take the twelve mile road down past the camp
toward Cascade Springs. Ten miles from Hot Springs we
come upon what at one time promised to be a fine modern
city. Modern buildings were built, including brick business
buildings with glass fronts. The hope was that “Cascade”
was to be the center of medical baths instead of Hot Springs.
At the head of the would-be town is a great warm spring, or
we might say a geyser boiling out of a large hole in the
ground. The water is highly medicated. Other similar
springs are in close proximity.</p>
<p>We take the road on through the town and two miles
farther on. We pass through a gate to the right and almost
at once hear the rumble of Cascade Falls just below us. We
drive over to the brink of the hill, dismount, and descend.
A beautiful waterfall is before us. The water falls only about
eight or ten feet, but it is impressive in its speed and volume.
Vegetation of various kinds, petrified by the minerals in the
<span class="pb" id="Page_146">146</span>
water or just in the process of petrification fills the channel
above. Moss, waving to and fro in the water is like sand
when we feel of it. It has a cool clammy mineral feeling
rather than the soft sensation we had expected to find in
moss. The bank high up, is lined with petrified moss of a
coarse texture.</p>
<p>The whirl-pools just below the falls are deep enough for
swimming but a few feet farther down the stream is just
right for wading. This warm mineral water lives up to its
reputation derived through long years as Indian medicine.
One just seems to feel that this is something that tones him
up ever so much. It reminds one of Ponce De Leon and his
Fountain of Youth. Many people are out here today.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig138">
<img src="images/p070.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="377" />
<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital.<br />U. S. Veterans Bureau Hospital for Disabled Soldiers and Sailors at Hot Springs<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>We decide that no prettier or more inspiring place can
be found for our lunch, so we eat in the valley beside the falls.
After lunch we inspect the aqueduct, for irrigation, I believe,
that crosses just above the falls.</p>
<p>But we must be on our way. Some of us who are not
accustomed to it wonder at the composition of the red soil
in the Hills region. We see crops, good crops, growing on
brick red soil. We can hardly credit our senses, but it must
be true.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_147">147</div>
<p>Back at camp we climb Catholican Hill, just above and to
the south of us. From there we get an excellent view of
Fall River, Cheyenne River, Harney Peak, The Soldiers Home,
The Country Club, the city, and surrounding country.</p>
<p>We drive on into Hot Springs. This is one of the larger
cities of the Hills. It is one of the most beautiful, as well.
Probably the medicated springs and the hospital service are
the things for which the city is best known. Many sick
people come here to be cured.</p>
<p>The great Evans Plunge is a large indoor swimming pool.
Into it the water at 90 degrees Fahr. pours in great volume.
The mineral content makes it pleasant feeling and restful.
Hundreds of people swim here daily in the busy season. This
is a real swim.</p>
<p>Next we visit Minnekahta Plunge, the old original Indian
spring. We are told that each gallon of its water contains
approximately 62.55 grains residue consisting of Sodium
Sulphate 16.07, Mica 2.46, Potassium Sulphate 16.51,
Magnesium Sulphate 4.32, Calcium Sulphate 16.33, Sodium
Chloride 13.79. Iron Sesqui oxide Trace.</p>
<p>The temperature is 96 degrees Fahr. This plunge is used
as a medical plunge, largely, with tub service as well as the
swimming pool. There is a hotel in connection with the
baths.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig139">
<img src="images/p070a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="509" />
<p class="caption">S. D. State Soldier’s Home<span class="jr">Stevens</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_148">148</div>
<div class="img" id="fig140">
<img src="images/p071.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="378" />
<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital For Disabled Soldiers and Sailors, at Hot Springs<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig141">
<img src="images/p071a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="497" />
<p class="caption">Cascade Falls, near Hot Springs, S.D.<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>We spend another night in Hot Springs and leave early
the next morning for Wind Cave over S. D. 85. We arrive
just in time for the first trip through, register, pay our fee,
and start.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_149">149</div>
<p>Wind Cave is a series of passages under ground formed
by the erosive action of water. Not all of the passages have
been explored, but three main routes are well marked. Above
the ground there is no indication of a cave, nothing but a low
broad hill. There is a souvenir shop and refreshment place
above the entrance, and government buildings across the road.
The cave is a part of the Wind Cave National Park, owned
and operated by the United States Government.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig142">
<img src="images/p071b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
<p class="caption">Wind Cave National Park, Hot Springs, S.D.<br />Wind Cave Entrance. We enter through the little building in the foreground<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Tradition tells us that the place was discovered by a
cow-boy who was riding by when a strong current of air
carried his hat down through a crevice in the earth. We
wonder if he ever recovered his hat? Why is it these stories
leave out the one question our curiosity prompts us to ask.
Possibly his hat, though, was not as important as the discovery
of the cave. They are still looking for the other end
of that current of air.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_150">150</div>
<p>Now we are ready to descend. We might profit by putting
on clothes that will not be harmed when soiled, tho this
is not necessary.</p>
<p>To the right of the entrance is a stone carving of Alvin
McDonald, the first guide through the cave. As we enter,
with gasoline lanterns, we feel a strong downward draft. This
disappears as we proceed. We go down two long flights of
stairs to start with. Down, down, down, we go, emerging in
the Bridal Chamber, 212 feet below the surface.</p>
<p>Our guide tells us quite confidentially that a certain
young lady wished to marry the young man of her choice,
but she had promised her mother that she would not marry
anyone on the face of the earth. To keep her word and still
satisfy her love she was married down here below the face
of the earth. When the Government took over the cave,
however, they forbade the continuance of this, for it was running
matrimony into the ground.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig143">
<img src="images/p072.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
<p class="caption">The Sheep, Wind Cave<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>Farther on we see petrified prairie dogs, on a petrified
mound. We hope our guide is strictly truthful, tho he tells
us that even he cannot vouch for the accuracy of all he tells
us. Then comes the Milky Way with petrified stars in a
petrified sky, and after this the Snowball Chamber. The
Post Office 240 feet down is filled with box work crystals
in a sort of cobweb pattern, each box having some depth. We
<span class="pb" id="Page_151">151</span>
are shown the foreign department and the great Sears Roebuck
mail chute. These formations are beautiful and remarkable
formations of water, heat, minerals, and natural
phenomena.</p>
<p>Room number 23 is Nellie’s room and the Beauty Parlor
follows it. Rouge, here is free. The petrified zoo confronts
us; very interesting indeed if our imaginations are up to par.
The Bleeding Rock is colored with iron oxide giving it a blood
color, and sure enough the Liberty Bell is cracked. In the
rookery is a petrified bird on a petrified nest (believe it if
you can.)</p>
<div class="img" id="fig144">
<img src="images/p072a.jpg" alt="" width="475" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Wind Cave<br />Frost Work, Garden of Eden<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_152">152</div>
<p>Again, quite confidentially the guide tells us that one
guide went over lovers leap the day before and six old maids
followed. After the petrified whirlwind, imagine it, we see
a map of South America, and then enter Opera Hall. From it
we pass to Grant’s tomb on the Hudson and be hanged if there
isn’t an Alligator going up to see it.</p>
<p>The Devil’s Lookout is 80 feet high, with his Dinner
Gong close by. The Furnace Room, Hen and Chickens, Hanging
Bridge and Bridal Veil Falls are very realistic. Sure
enough, there sits a water spaniel dog begging for—daylight.
Now we see some Swiss scenery, a mountain goat,
cheese, bread and beer. Only the beer is not there, it was
drunk by the last party through.</p>
<p>We next come to the Methodist Episcopal Church. It is
the custom to bow as you enter the low door and also bow
going out. We are especially requested not to spit on the
altar. Bishop Fowler’s Cathedral is 190 feet across.</p>
<p>We can just see the appetizing popcorn in Popcorn Alley,
and then we pass on to the Hanging Rock. We carefully
avoid going beneath it. Three hundred feet down and half
a mile in we come to Odd Fellow’s Hall. There is the all-seeing
eye and the three links—Friendship, Love, and Truth,
with the third slightly stretched. There also is the road to
Jericho and the Goat.</p>
<p>We pass Samson’s Palace, The Queen’s Drawing Room,
Capitol Hall, and Turtle Pass. Here the trail divides, the
short route going to the Garden of Eden, the medium route
to the Fair Grounds, and the long route to the Pearly Gates.
We take the medium.</p>
<p>In order we pass Scalping Grounds, Masonic Temple,
Elks Room, with an elk head within and an American Eagle
alighting on a rock, then the Grand Canyon with its great
clefts hundreds of feet underground.</p>
<p>Monte Cristo Palace is 390 feet down. Old Maid’s Glasses
follows and Dog Tooth, made of five points spar crystals.
McKinley’s memorial is next, and then Assembly Hall. Here,
again is much artistic boxwork formation. Next is A. O. U.
W. Hall. In it is a stone book which, our guide tells us, is
<span class="pb" id="Page_153">153</span>
the only Natural History of Wind Cave. From here we go to
the Giant’s Punch Bowl and on to Johnston’s Camp Grounds.</p>
<p>In the Bachelor’s apartments everything is upside down
and all dusty. In his cupboard is a loaf of bread with a mouse
gnawing at it. This leads us at last to the ticket office to
the Fair Grounds. The Fair Grounds is a beautiful large
room with a white ceiling, the whole covering about three
acres. The first attraction is the South Dakota Teacher’s
School Room with its calcite crystal wall. The Elephant’s
Foot has fallen through the ceiling farther on. Then come
S. D. Federation of Women’s Clubs Room, Ice Gorge, and
The Northwestern Hotel Men’s assembly chamber. In the
Farm Yard are a guinea hen, a little red rooster, a polar bear,
the little red hen drinking, a guinea pig, a rabbit and a hen
fighting, and a donkey. Last comes the jaw bone of a monster.</p>
<p>In the Meat Market hangs a ham, a goose, and some
beef. Over high steps and under a low ceiling we pass into
the Coliseum. The seats are of white rock. In Rambler’s
Hall is a knife through the ceiling. Next are the Catacombs.
Here we go down a rocky precipitous descent. Last comes
the Elk’s Room, and then the return to the entrance. Everything
we have seen is made of rock and our imagination.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig145">
<img src="images/p073.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="432" />
<p class="caption">“Buffalo,” the Monarch of the Plains<br />Bison in the State Park</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_154">154</div>
<div class="img" id="fig146">
<img src="images/p074.jpg" alt="" width="477" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Traffic Cop, on a turn in the road<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
</div>
<p>This has been an eventful trip.</p>
<p>We drive on north over 85 and 81 to the South Dakota
State Game Preserve. Here we see elk, deer, and buffalo.
<span class="pb" id="Page_155">155</span>
On the way we find some specimens of rose quartz. At the
Game Lodge we stop to see the zoo. In it are deer, mountain
sheep, coyotes, foxes, bears, eagles, owls, badgers, raccoons,
porcupines, bobcats, prairie dogs, spotted rabbits, and elk,
all alive. These are particularly interesting to lovers of animals.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig147">
<img src="images/p074a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="403" />
<p class="caption">Bear in the Zoo</p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig148">
<img src="images/p074b.jpg" alt="" width="697" height="412" />
<p class="caption">In the Zoo</p>
</div>
<p>The Game Lodge Hotel, which is the structure used by
President Coolidge as the Summer White House of 1927, is a
large well furnished affair, not altogether unsuited to the
purpose for which it was used. Now, in the reception room
<span class="pb" id="Page_156">156</span>
on opposite sides of the comfortable fireplace are large oil
paintings of President Coolidge and Grace Coolidge. Here
this first lady of the land and her distinguished husband
will, in the spirit of the paintings, receive guests in behalf of
the nation and the State of South Dakota for years to come.
Elk and deer heads also adorn the walls, while huge fur rugs
cover the floor. Great leather rocking chairs and davenports
add to the comforts of the room.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig149">
<img src="images/p075.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="436" />
<p class="caption">The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<p>So popular is the Game Lodge as a summer resort hotel
that any one wishing to secure a room here must do so several
days or weeks in advance. During the various hunting
and fishing seasons of the year this place is frequented by
hunters from many other states of the Union as well as South
Dakota.</p>
<p>Special hunting licenses may be procured providing lodging
here during the hunt.</p>
<p>We, at last, must tear away our mooring to the Hills
and head for home. We still have a few things to see, but
we have the feeling that it is all over, and the total addition
to our beings has been tremendous, too great for measurement,
and as time rolls by it grows still greater.</p>
<p>We miss one of the interesting spots of the Hills, Buffalo
Gap. In Calico Canyon three miles west of town are located
<span class="pb" id="Page_157">157</span>
the most beautiful colored sandstone in the Hills and a
great natural bridge of rock.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig150">
<img src="images/p075a.jpg" alt="" width="449" height="800" />
<p class="caption">Natural Bridge at Buffalo Gap</p>
</div>
<p>At Hermosa is a neat little tourist park, but we cannot
partake of it. In Hermosa also we see the church which
won so much publicity during President Coolidge’s stay. Its
picture does it justice. Hermosa Crystal Cave is ten miles
west of Hermosa. At last, we speed back to Rapid City.
Hidden City is on the way. This is the probable vestiges of
what was once an ancient building or buildings. We spend
another night in that inviting municipal park; and reluctantly
<span class="pb" id="Page_158">158</span>
with many a backward look, we head for home. Long
after we leave the Hills we can look back and see those hazy
black peaks rearing their majestic tops to the clouds. We
can’t help recalling Morse’s old phrase, “What hath God
wrought.” He indeed develops wonders here on earth at his
almighty command.</p>
<div class="img" id="fig151">
<img src="images/p076.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
<p class="caption">Hermosa Crystal Cave</p>
</div>
<p>We have been pretty much concerned about the sights,
now we look around and see what our car looks like. The
food is gone. The containers now house quartz, mica, granite,
tourmaline, lithia, copper, gold ore, pictures, pine cones, and
various other souvenirs. The car glides swiftly over the excellent
roads, but nevertheless we feel it is heavily loaded.
We weigh the car, and consternation; it weighs 4,285 pounds,
or 1500 pounds more than it does empty. We may as well
look at the speedometer too. It was 12,114 and now it is
13,584. We have gone 1470 miles. 250 of these might be
subtracted as our trip inland from Pierre.</p>
<p>We have had our vacation, and now we go home to ponder.
It has been a glorious trip.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_159">159</div>
<div class="img" id="fig152">
<img src="images/p076a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="485" />
<p class="caption">CUSTER STATE PARK HIGHWAY<br />BLACK HILLS, S.D.</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_160">160</div>
<div class="img" id="fig153">
<img src="images/p077.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="503" />
<p class="caption">Moonlight on the Missouri<br />Pierre, S.D.<span class="jr">Miller Foto 39</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_161">161</div>
<h2 id="c18">APPENDIX I</h2>
<p>The following are some of the more important peaks of the Black Hills.</p>
<table class="center" summary="">
<tr class="th"><th>Mountain </th><th>Where located </th><th>Height, ft.</th></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Battle Mountain </td><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="r">4431</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Bear Butte </td><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="r">4422</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Crook’s Tower </td><td class="l">Rochford </td><td class="r">7140</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Crow Peak </td><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">5787</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Custer Peak </td><td class="l">Deadwood-Pactola </td><td class="r">6794</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Deer Sars </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">3500</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Devil’s Tower </td><td class="l">Sundance, Wyo. </td><td class="r">5117</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Flag Mountain </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6900</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Harney Peak </td><td class="l">Hill City-Custer </td><td class="r">7244</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Lookout Peak </td><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">4485</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Missouri Buttes </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">5372</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Mt. Coolidge </td><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="r">6000</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Mt. Pisgah </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6400</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Ragged Top </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6207</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Roosevelt Mountain </td><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">5676</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Sheep Mountain </td><td class="l">In Badlands </td><td class="r">3500</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Terry Peak </td><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="r">7070</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Tow Top </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">3732</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">White Rocks </td><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">5286</td></tr>
</table>
<div class="pb" id="Page_162">162</div>
<div class="img" id="fig154">
<img src="images/p078.jpg" alt="" width="583" height="799" />
<p class="caption">Large Horseshoe Curve, a long way around to get a short distance ahead</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_163">163</div>
<h2 id="c19">APPENDIX II
<br />Elevation of cities and places of interest.</h2>
<table class="center" summary="">
<tr><td class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="r">3011</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Buffalo Gap </td><td class="r">3258</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Camp Crook </td><td class="r">3200</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Cascade </td><td class="r">3406</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="r">4242</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="r">5301</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">4543</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Deerfield </td><td class="r">5900</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="r">3449</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Fairburn </td><td class="r">3310</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Ft. Meade </td><td class="r">3300</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Galena </td><td class="r">4832</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="r">3300</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hill City </td><td class="r">4976</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="r">3443</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Interior </td><td class="r">2381</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Jewel Cave </td><td class="r">5090</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Keystone </td><td class="r">4340</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="r">5119</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Minnekahta </td><td class="r">4159</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Mystic </td><td class="r">4835</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Pactola </td><td class="r">4459</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Philip </td><td class="r">2159</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Piedmont </td><td class="r">3463</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Pine Ridge </td><td class="r">3250</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Pringle </td><td class="r">4879</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Rapid City </td><td class="r">3229</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Rockford </td><td class="r">5299</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Savoy </td><td class="r">4956</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Scenic </td><td class="r">3812</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Silver City </td><td class="r">4592</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">3637</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">State Game Lodge </td><td class="r">4400</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="r">3452</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="r">6250</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Terry </td><td class="r">6165</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Wall </td><td class="r">2813</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Whitewood </td><td class="r">3644</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Wind Cave </td><td class="r">4100</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Pierre </td><td class="r">1457</td></tr>
</table>
<div class="pb" id="Page_164">164</div>
<div class="img" id="fig155">
<img src="images/p079.jpg" alt="Railroad track beside a stream" width="467" height="800" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_165">165</div>
<h2 id="c20">APPENDIX III
<br />Industries of Black Hills</h2>
<dl class="undent"><dt>Mining</dt>
<dt>Lumbering</dt>
<dt>Fruit Raising</dt>
<dt>Farming</dt>
<dt>Cement Plant</dt>
<dt>Sugar Factory</dt>
<dt>Flower Mills</dt>
<dt>Quarrying</dt>
<dt>Brick Making</dt>
<dt>Pickle Making</dt>
<dt>Creameries</dt>
<dt>Canning</dt>
<dt>Souvenir Making</dt>
<dt>Generation of Electricity</dt>
<dd><span class="small">150,000 H. P. estimated potential</span></dd>
<dt>Gov. fish and game raising</dt>
<dt>Grazing</dt>
<dt>Health Resorts</dt>
<dt>Publishing</dt></dl>
<div class="pb" id="Page_166">166</div>
<div class="img" id="fig156">
<img src="images/p080.jpg" alt="River valley" width="800" height="524" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_167">167</div>
<h2 id="c21">APPENDIX IV
<br />Fishing</h2>
<p>Originally there were no trout in the Black Hills. Now
nearly every stream in the Hills is stocked with trout. The
U. S. hatchery at Spearfish and the S. D. hatchery at Rapid
City keep the streams well supplied. Approximately two million
trout are thus put out each year. They are chiefly of
four varieties: Loch Leven, Black spotted, Brook, and Rainbow.
During our visit to the Hills we see fishermen practically
in every part of every stream from the interior of the
tourist camps to the headwaters in almost jungles. They
use anything from the bargain one dollar complete angling
outfit to the best outfit made. For bait they use anything
from worms to flies. The local fishermen are better authorities
on the subject than the author. However, many fine
specimens are seen, and many large messes of trout are taken
by all types of fishermen.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_168">168</div>
<div class="img" id="fig157">
<img src="images/p081.jpg" alt="" width="563" height="1000" />
<p class="caption">Black Hills Streams—See <a href="#Page_169">Page 169</a></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_169">169</div>
<h2 id="c22">APPENDIX V</h2>
<p>Some of the more important streams of the Black Hills
are:</p>
<dl class="undent"><dt>(1) Belle Fourche River is in the north with its tributaries:</dt>
<dt>(2) Sand Creek</dt>
<dt>(3) Sundance Creek</dt>
<dt>(4) Redwater Creek</dt>
<dt>(5) Spearfish Creek</dt>
<dt>(6) May Creek</dt>
<dt>(7) Whitewood Creek</dt>
<dt>(8) Bear Butte Creek</dt>
<dt>(9) Owl Creek</dt></dl>
<p>Eventually these empty into the Cheyenne River.</p>
<p>Below these come the tributaries of the:</p>
<dl class="undent"><dt>(10) Cheyenne</dt>
<dt>(11) Elk Creek</dt>
<dt>(12) Bolder Creek</dt>
<dt>(13) Rapid Creek, with its tributaries</dt>
<dt>(14) Castle Creek</dt>
<dt>(15) Slate Creek</dt>
<dt>(16) Spring Creek</dt>
<dt>(17) Iron Creek</dt>
<dt>(18) Battle Creek</dt>
<dt>(19) Grace Coolidge Creek</dt>
<dt>(20) French Creek</dt>
<dt>(21) Lame Johnny Creek</dt>
<dt>(22) Beaver Creek</dt>
<dt>(23) Fall River</dt></dl>
<div class="pb" id="Page_170">170</div>
<div class="img" id="fig158">
<img src="images/p082.jpg" alt="" width="486" height="800" />
<p class="caption">A drive through the pines in the Black Hills (76)<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_171">171</div>
<h2 id="c23">APPENDIX VI
<br />Camps and Camping</h2>
<p>The camps themselves have been taken up to some extent
in the body of this book. In 1928 the camps in Rapid
City and the northern cities far surpassed those of the southern
towns. But the people all over the Hills, especially in
the larger cities are fast awakening to the realization that
good parks play a tremendous part in the development of
their localities. Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Deadwood
were the first to realize the value of service to their
visitors. They have doubtlessly reaped rich reward for their
investment, judging from the number of people who use
those camp sites night after night.</p>
<p>The cost of the camps is generally fifty cents per car
each night. This pays for the site, police protection, lights,
in some places shower baths, swimming, laundry, toilets, pure
water, firewood, reading room, community cabin, piano, and
any other services the locality might afford; especially vegetable,
milk, and grocery sales. Some of the camps are almost
wonders in themselves.</p>
<p>For those who prefer cabins most of the camps have
small log, wood, or tent cabins, variously furnished, accommodating
from two to six people or more. These rent at a
dollar plus the car fee of fifty cents to a little more for the
larger ones. The added convenience of this method of camping
is considerable.</p>
<p>Some of the high spots of a life-time occur in our meeting
tourists from all parts of the state, nation, and world in
these parks. These people range all the way from sheep
herders to aviators and from students to corporatic magnates.
They are all bent on the same quest, enjoyment of nature’s
wonders; and all are congenial. All are as one great family,
swapping yarns and experiences and discussing everything
from the diet of fishworms to managing an oil company.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_172">172</div>
<div class="img" id="fig159">
<img src="images/p083.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="457" />
<p class="caption">Deer in the Custer State Park<span class="jr">Rise Photo, Rapid City, S.D.</span></p>
</div>
<div class="img" id="fig160">
<img src="images/p083a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="321" />
<p class="caption">A Log Cabin With Fire Place</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_173">173</div>
<p>Hotel rates are reasonable in the Hills, for those who
prefer the best of conveniences rather than a complete outdoor
vacation. Bus lines and train service from these afford
excellent sight-seeing facilities. However, for some of us
who enjoy freedom and independence the conventional tour
seems to savor too much of routine. We lose some of the
great pleasure of conquest and discovery of unusual and inaccessible
places. And the privacy of our party, our own division
of our time for the things that we personally are interested
in, are features that make or break the success of the
trip.</p>
<p>When one is on a vacation he likes to plan his trip so
as best to satisfy his interests and humors. This can best be
accomplished when he is his own boss and can give as much
or as little time as he wishes to each place of interest. The
scheduled tours are excellent, but if a person wishes to spend
more time at the mines, in the Needles, seeing hydro-electric
plants, or inspecting factories or mills he had best plan his
own tour.</p>
<p>The cost of the trip is not excessive if carefully planned.
The food is of course an item. Gasoline is another. Camp
fees are small. The rest is more or less a matter of individual
taste.</p>
<p>The question of camping equipment and clothing is not
the easiest one with which we must wrestle.</p>
<p>First, possibly comes the food question. We might profit
by carrying meat, butter, vegetables, salt, sugar, flour, pepper,
and lard from home or bought in quantity at some point on
the way, if we have a way to keep them from the effects of
the sun. Carrots, potatoes, milk, lettuce, radishes, bread,
fruit, canned goods, coffee, and groceries in general can be
bought in or near most of the camps at the prices about the
same as the home grocer charges. Carrying too much loads
down the car excessively.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_174">174</div>
<div class="img" id="fig161">
<img src="images/p084.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="629" />
<p class="caption">Head of Cottonwood Draw, in center of the “Bad Lands.” Layers of Sandstone in Clay Beds. The sandstone protects the clay from weathering and wearing away. The isolated caps are called “Ostrich Heads.”</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_175">175</div>
<p>Camping equipment is an enigma. A light tent, <b>heavy
enough to shed rain</b>, large enough to accommodate all, and not
having unwieldy poles, is the first essential; unless cabins,
when accessible, or hotels are to be used. Second, enough
cots should be provided to accommodate all. Car cushions and
car beds are sometimes desirable. Probably the best is the
small steel folding double camp bed with springs and a thin
mattress. But these must be strong and not easily bent.
Probably the greatest mistake of campers is to try to sleep
with plenty of covering but not enough under them. Especially
with the canvas cots the conduction of the cold air from
below is considerable. Three woolen blankets or two and a
pair of sheets and a mattress will keep two people comfortably
warm under ordinary circumstances though some people
prefer an extra blanket. High altitude makes the temperature
drop perceptibly.</p>
<p>For clothing, khaki, whipcord, or corduroy breeches and
high laced leather boots are the ideal, both for men and women
for mountain climbing or rambling around through
mines, forests, etc. They can be cleaned and they stand
rough wear. They look well also. Have a good sunshade
hat and khaki shirts; light colored ones or woolen ones are
all good. (I prefer the wool, even in the hottest weather, because
of its safeguard from cold.) Wear light underclothing
of course. By all means have two sets of this type of
clothing if the stay is prolonged, as laundry facilities are not
always available. Two pairs of hose, well pulled up, are best,
as they do not permit chafing of the feet and they protect the
feet against bad results of sweat.</p>
<p>If at all possible to carry one without undue wrinkling,
a good suit is desirable. There are occasions when one wishes
to go to church, or to various other gatherings, dances or
the like where a camping outfit is hardly proper.</p>
<p>The car will appreciate having the load well balanced.
If a heavy trunk is suspended behind, the tent and cots had
better be suspended above the front bumper to balance it.
Cover all equipment from dust and rain. Do not pile up equipment
in front of the radiator, in the uphill grades the engine
will need all the air it can get. Do not barricade any of the
car doors; you’ll be sorry if you do. It is best to supply a
place for souvenirs. Very few people go out without loading
up with “junk” of one sort or another before returning. (Our
specialty was several hundred pounds of rocks and minerals.)</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_176">176</div>
<div class="img" id="fig162">
<img src="images/p085.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="631" />
<p class="caption">Railroad and Wagon Bridge over the Missouri between Pierre and Ft. Pierre<span class="jr">Miller Photo</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_177">177</div>
<p>Other desirable items of equipment are:</p>
<dl class="undent"><dt>1. Pocket compass</dt>
<dt>2. Hatchet</dt>
<dt>3. Field Glasses</dt>
<dt>4. A good jack knife</dt>
<dt>5. A trout fishing outfit</dt>
<dt>6. Bathing suits for all</dt>
<dt>7. Matches</dt>
<dt>8. A pressure gasoline camp stove</dt>
<dt>9. Small water pail</dt>
<dt>10. Metal kettle, skillet, butcher knives, plates, knives, forks, spoons, cups, saucers</dt>
<dt>11. Road maps</dt></dl>
<div class="pb" id="Page_178">178</div>
<div class="img" id="fig163">
<img src="images/p086.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="236" height="600" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_179">179</div>
<h2 id="c24">APPENDIX VII
<br />NEWER DEVELOPMENTS</h2>
<p>Since the body of this book has been written several
new developments have come up which should be mentioned.</p>
<p>The United States Government has made an appropriation
for the continuation of the carving on Rushmore Mountain.
This work is going forward now at maximum speed.
The form of the first figure is taking shape, and indications
are that the work will go forward to rapid completion.
When these figures are finished Rushmore will be one of
the masterpieces of sculpturing of the world.</p>
<p>At the present time the roads to Rushmore are in very
bad shape. Indications are, however, that a graded, surfaced
highway will soon lead up to the mountain, the state
and the local counties are putting forth every effort to improve
the main roads and to make new roads where such
are needed. In the not far remote future many of the scenic
places not now readily accessible will be opened up to Black
Hills visitors.</p>
<p>The South Dakota Department of Agriculture, the
Black Hills Commercial Clubs, and various other organizations
are calling attention to mining possibilities in the
“Hills.” Many organizations from within the state and from
outside the state are inquiring into these projects, and many
mining leases are being let. Some of the newer developments
are aluminum, onyx and glass.</p>
<p>Probably in the near future the Black Hills will have
far greater commercial importance than they at present have.</p>
<p>The United States Government has also made a national
park out of the Bad Lands. This means that many of the
places that were not well known before will be brought to
the sightseeing world. It also means that some of the heretofore
bad roads will be surfaced, so the Bad Lands will not
necessarily have to be left out because of rain. The Bad
Lands is a truly remarkable sight, and should not be passed
up by visitors to the “Hills.” The added mileage is not great,
but the added experience gained through seeing them is
enormous.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_180">180</div>
<div class="img" id="fig164">
<img src="images/p087.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
<p class="caption">A typical scene, showing a valley flanked by hills, with prairie beyond, along a creek in Haakon County</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_181">181</div>
<p>Many of the scenic spots in Rapid Canyon and Spearfish
Canyon have not been taken up in this volume. Either
of these places afford many beautiful sights, especially the
latter. The Spearfish Canyon leads clear up to Lead. On
the way are many summer camps or taverns. There are
many side canyons leading off the main Spearfish Canyon,
each of which is in itself worth ascending. The best known
of these is Little Spearfish Canyon. All through the Hills
these beautiful but not well known canyons and gulches may
be found.</p>
<p>The pools below Sylvan Lake is a place that should be
visited, either by descent from the roadside marker, north
of the lake, or by the path down from Sylvan Lake.</p>
<p>One place of interest not before mentioned is the
beautiful “Pheasant Dining Room” at the Game Lodge. In
it, just below the ceiling, are thirty-three pheasants, mounted
in various positions, standing, flying, and alighting.</p>
<p>The Belle Fourche Roundup has been taken up in some
detail. Other events of the summer season are not wanting.
Rapid City has its Council of American Indians, Custer its
Gold Discovery Day, Deadwood its Days of ’76, Interior its
Roundup, and so on. All of these affairs are worth attending.
They are first class, demonstrations of the things they
convey, and there is a liberal education in them for the
person uninformed in their field of thought.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_182">182</div>
<div class="img" id="fig165">
<img src="images/p088.jpg" alt="Trees silhouetted by moonlight" width="345" height="500" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_183">183</div>
<h2 id="c25">APPENDIX VIII
<br />ROUTES</h2>
<p>Sometimes requests are made for lists of things to see
on one or two days trips out of Rapid City. Following are
four possible trips, calling for one or two days or even a
week each:</p>
<p>1. First, the Rapid Canyon trip.</p>
<p>See the School of Mines Museum at the Eastern entrance
to the city. From there go through the city past the “Old
Mill Tea Room.” Take the Cement plant road from the
Bacon camp. After seeing the cement plant return, and
turn south at Bacon Camp. Take the road to Municipal
Camp. Go through the Municipal Camp, and if possible,
take a swim in the pool, over the ridge from the first row
of cabins. You’ll remember that swim.</p>
<p>From Municipal Camp take the canyon road to the left
of the camp gate. From here ascend the canyon to Lockhart’s
Inn. Here, if such is desired, see Lockhart’s moss
sculpturing. Go on foot up the track to the Dark Canyon
trail. This leads for several miles around crags, up Dark
canyon, to Victoria Falls. Go up as far as you wish. Return
to Rapid City.</p>
<p>2. Northern Hills.</p>
<p>Take in any of the Rapid City sights before mentioned.
Take U. S. 16 west, then north to Crystal Cave. Plan on a
half day for this. Then continue north to Sturgis. There
see Bear Butte. Climb it, if you feel ambitious. See the
United States Military Post, Fort Meade, east of town on
S. D. 24. Return, and either take Boulder Canyon, S. D. 24,
or U. S. 16 to Spearfish. See the Municipal Camp and
United States trout hatchery southwest of town, and possibly
the teachers college north of the city. Take a trip up the
canyon, at least to Bridal Veil Falls. Stop at Wildcat Cave
on the way if you have time. Return to Spearfish,
and take U. S. 85 north to Belle Fourche. There see the
sugar plant and Orman Dam. Return to Spearfish and on
U. S. 16 to U. S. 85 which takes you to Deadwood. See
Preacher Smith’s monument on the way. Stop at Pine Crest
camp. In Deadwood see Mt. Moriah Cemetery, White Rocks,
and Roosevelt Mountain. Return to Deadwood, and then take
the road right straight through main street west, over the
old mines road to Lead. On this road, (it is gravel surfaced,)
see the vestiges of old mines and the old Central City. In
Lead see the Homestake Mine. This begins at the Burlington
station near the eastern end of main street. After the mine,
take Icebox Canyon road to Cheyenne crossing and return
or go direct over S. D. 83 to Pactola, and Sheridan. From
here take S. D. 40 back to Rapid City over the beautiful
Spring Creek road.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_184">184</div>
<div class="img" id="fig166">
<img src="images/p089.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
<p class="caption">Mouth of Dark Canyon<span class="jr">Rise Photo—Rapid City, S.D.</span></p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_185">185</div>
<p>3. Central Hills.</p>
<p>Again, see Rapid City. Take S. D. 40 through the beautiful
Spring Creek valley to Sheridan and Hill City, and then
back to Keystone, or you might go directly to Keystone. The
roads might be rather rough. At Keystone see Keystone
Consolidated Mines, Etta Mine, Juga Mine and a mica mine.
Then see Rushmore mountain. Return to Hill City, or the
mine trip may be left out. From Hill City take the road to
Sylvan Lake. Here see the Lake and the Gorge. Climb
Harney Peak, the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains.
From Sylvan Lake take the Needles Highway twenty-seven
miles, and double back over S. D. 36 to Custer. On the
way you see the Tallent monument, and to the right a few
paces the Gordon Stockade. See Jewell Cave, gold discovery
monument, rose quartz mounted in masonry and the big log
cabin and the museum. Take S. D. 36 through Galena, the
Game Lodge and Hermosa, to Rapid City. In Hermosa see
the church Pres. Coolidge attended.</p>
<p>If the roads are bad take S. D. 79 from the East end of
main street when leaving Rapid City, instead of S. D. 40 to
the west. Thus you see Hermosa, and President Coolidge’s
little church, the Game Lodge, Custer and Sylvan Lake in
reverse order, and then double back over the same route
when returning.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_186">186</div>
<div class="img" id="fig167">
<img src="images/p090.jpg" alt="Indian maiden" width="325" height="600" />
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_187">187</div>
<p>4. Southern Hills.</p>
<p>Take S. D. 79 through Hermosa, Game Lodge and
Galena. Leave 79 and take S. D. 81 south past Mt. Coolidge
to Wind Cave. Go through this. Drive on to Hot Springs.
See Cascade Springs and Cascade Falls. Ask the way at
any filling station. See the petrified wood and petrified
moss over the track east of the Municipal Camp. Take some
of it with you. See Evans camp, and swim in Evans Plunge
before you leave. Visit the old soldiers’ home. Take the
same route back, or go west to Custer when you reach S. D.
36, and from there take in the Needles, Sylvan Lake, Harney
Peak, Hill City, and Sheridan, thence back to Rapid City.</p>
<p>Make it as intensive a trip as your time will permit. If
the time is limited some of the places must be left out.</p>
<p>If you wish, you may take the trip through the most interesting
places by motor bus. These busses leave Rapid City
at short intervals, and their trip is really enjoyable.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_188">188</div>
<h2 id="c26">DRIVING DISTANCE FROM RAPID CITY</h2>
<table class="center" summary="">
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Blackhawk </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">7</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Piedmont </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">14</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">22</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Tilford </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">28</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Whitewood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">38</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="c">16-85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">51</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="c">16-85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">64</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Newell </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">62</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">Boulder </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">43</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">Canyon </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">46</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Box Elder </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">10</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Underwood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">22</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Scenic </td><td class="c">40 </td><td class="c">S. E. </td><td class="r">55</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Interior </td><td class="c">40 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">70</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Pactola </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">West </td><td class="r">25</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="c">70 </td><td class="c">South </td><td class="r">21</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Buffalo Gap </td><td class="c">79 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">50</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="c">79 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">63</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="c">79-85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">96</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">State Lodge </td><td class="c">79-36 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">35</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Pringle </td><td class="c">79-36-85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">55</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">52</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Custer </td><td class="c">79-36 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">42</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" class="l">Keystone </td><td class="c">S. W. </td><td class="r">27</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hill City </td><td class="c">40-85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">28</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" class="l">Rushmore </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Phillip </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">93</td></tr>
</table>
<div class="pb" id="Page_189">189</div>
<h2 id="c27">DISTANCE FROM DEADWOOD OF VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST</h2>
<table class="center" summary="">
<tr><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="c">85-16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">13</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="c">85-16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">3</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="c">14 </td><td class="c">West </td><td class="r">26</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="c">Boulder </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">12</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="c">Boulder 14 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">27</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Rapid City </td><td class="c">Boulder 14 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">43</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Pactola </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">South </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hill City </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">45</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Keystone </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">56</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Rushmore Mt. </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">56</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">52</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Game Lodge </td><td class="c">85-36 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">72</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="c">85-36 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">86</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">58</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Custer-Needles </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">74</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">84</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">” </td><td class="r">95</td></tr>
</table>
<div class="box">
<h1 title="">Through the
<br />BLACK HILLS
<br />and
<br />BAD LANDS
<br />of
<br />So. Dak.</h1>
<hr />
<h1 title="">Authentic Guide
<br />History—Statistics—Scenery</h1>
<hr />
<p class="center"><span class="small">Copyright, 1929</span>
<br />By
<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
<p class="center">Price, $1.35</p>
</div>
<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
<ul>
<li>Copyright notice provided as in the original—this e-text is public domain in the country of publication.</li>
<li>Silently corrected palpable typos; left non-standard spellings and dialect unchanged.</li>
<li>Transcribed captions within photographs, where they added information not in the printed caption.</li>
<li>In the text version only, italicized text is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
</ul>
<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 54007 ***</div>
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