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diff --git a/old/54007-0.txt b/old/54007-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1403e1a..0000000 --- a/old/54007-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3834 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands of -South Dakota, by Purl Dewey Peterson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Through the Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota - -Author: Purl Dewey Peterson - -Release Date: January 18, 2017 [EBook #54007] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - Through the - Black Hills - and - Bad Lands - of South Dakota - - - By - P. D. Peterson - - J. Fred Olander Company - Pierre, S. D. - - Copyright, 1929 - P. D. Peterson - - To my mother who has been an inspiration and a guide for me throughout - my early training, ever helping her family to see and acquire the - highest ideals possible; and to my wife who has assisted me in the - compilation and revision of this book, the following pages are - affectionately dedicated. - - [Illustration: THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST - By Edwin H. Blashfield - This painting is in the Governor’s reception room in the S. D. Capitol - building at Pierre.] - - - - - FOREWORD - - -This book is not a history, although it contains some historical -accounts where such are necessary to bring out the importance of the -scenery described. It makes no attempt at being a technical guide of any -sort, although the treatment of various animals, trees, flowers, and -minerals is as near accurate as a tourist could hope to obtain. - -The main purpose of this book is to give a chronological or itinerary -account of what may be seen in the Black Hills. It should acquaint the -tourist with the things of interest to see on his trip. It should save -him the chagrin of passing a point of interest without having known he -did so. It should, further, give him a souvenir of the scenes and -experiences of the trip. But one of the central purposes of this -treatise is to give the school children and the grown-ups of South -Dakota a picture of their own Black Hills and Bad Lands. - - [Illustration: ] - - - - - TABLE OF CONTENTS - - - Chapter Page - I Introduction 9 - II State Capitol 13 - III The Badlands 21 - IV Rapid City 35 - V Cement Plant 40 - VI Crystal Cave 43 - VII Sturgis 48 - VIII Belle Fourche 52 - IX Spearfish 60 - X Pine Crest Camp 69 - XI Lead 71 - XII Deadwood 83 - XIII Pactola, Silver City, and Camp Wanzer 90 - XIV Hill City and Keystone 93 - XV Needles Road, Sylvan Lake Harney Peak and the Gorge 101 - XVI Custer 125 - XVII Hot Springs 145 - Appendix Page - I Mountains 161 - II Elevations 163 - III Industries 165 - IV Fishing 167 - V Streams 169 - VI Camps and Camping 171 - VII New Developments 179 - VIII Shorter Routes 183 - - [Illustration: Harney Peak above the clouds. This is the highest point - in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains. - Photo by Beard] - - - - - CHAPTER I - Introduction - - -“The Wonderland of America” is not an overstatement of the scenic beauty -of the Black Hills of South Dakota. One cannot but marvel at the endless -new experiences that he has each day, whether it be on a three days’ or -a three weeks’ trip through the Black Hills. In the shorter trip he will -take in the more prominent points, scarcely departing from the main -arterial highways. On the longer tour he will drive a thousand to -fifteen hundred miles through deep canyons, up to the mines, and to many -other places which at first would seem almost impenetrable but which -upon inquiry will be found readily accessible. The more extensive trip -should be the one selected if at all possible, for it leaves an -impression on a person’s mind that cannot be erased by time or by any -amount of traveling in any part of the world. - - [Illustration: Birdseye view of Sylvan Lake - Rise Photo] - -The vast, impressive grandeur of the whole, gained by the views from -mountain tops, from the floors of canyons, and from various other -vantage points cannot help but leave with one a feeling of awe, a -feeling that the Creator of these great magnificent sturdy formations, -towering toward the sky, penetrating the very clouds and fringed and -capped by element defying monarchs of the evergreen family is a powerful -Being. They leave with a person a feeling of safety under the protecting -guidance of a Being powerful enough to create what lies before him. - -All through the “Hills” this feeling of the marvelous greatness of the -structures, and the intricate workmanship found in them grows upon a -person, until when he speeds eastward (or westward) at the close of the -trip with an occasional backward look, he cannot help feeling that his -mind has been broadened and expanded proportionate to the impressiveness -of what he has seen. - -No attempt will be made in this volume at a systematic cataloging of the -various things of interest to be seen. The account will be strictly -chronological, in order, just as it was experienced on a trip through -the “Hills.” Preceding the Black Hills accounts will come an account of -a tour through the Great Badlands of South Dakota. A trip to the “Hills” -is not complete without a visit to the Badlands, and the impressiveness -of the latter is scarcely less than that of its neighbor. It is well to -plan for this part of the trip before entering the “Hills.” Then, if it -rains the Badlands must be postponed until the close, for the roads are -somewhat bad when wet. - - [Illustration: A peak in Cedar Pass - O’Neill Photo] - - [Illustration: This Monument marks the center of the state of South -Dakota and the approximate center of North America. It stands along the - highway north of Pierre] - - [Illustration: Rotunda, Capitol, Pierre] - - - - - CHAPTER II - State Capitol - - -No matter whether the entrance to South Dakota is made from the north, -south, east, or west, all of the main roads are gravel surfaced. Many an -Eastener will complain of the driving on these roads, but one may drive -up to fifty or sixty miles per hour on them with comparative safety, -with the average car. This is far beyond the legal limit of the state. -Rain and other adverse weather conditions will not affect traveling. -This holds true for most of the main highways in the “Hills.” - - [Illustration: Corridor and Grand Stairway, Capitol Building, Pierre, - S. D.] - -Over these gravelled highways, probably U. S. 14 or U. S. 16 we speed -until we hit Pierre, the State capitol, located in the center of South -Dakota. Here it might be well to stop for a few hours or overnight. The -State welcomes everyone to a trip through the State Capitol. This trip -is interesting and in many ways highly enlightening. - -[Illustration: Governor’s Reception Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.] - - [Illustration: Supreme Court Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.] - -The Capitol, “up on the hill,” is probably the first building of Pierre -to catch the eye when entering the city from any direction. Its great -wings and massive dome cause it to stand out, and its height adds to its -conspicuousness. - -Capitol Avenue, coming from the east runs true with the world. It leads -thus past the Governor’s residence to a beautiful arch bridge over the -outlet from what is known as Capitol Lake. - -On this placid lake, surrounded by splendid lawn, swans float gracefully -and various other aquatic forms feed with varying degrees of industry. - -From here Capitol Avenue turns in a north-westerly direction gradually -ascending to the Capitol, two blocks distant. The Capitol lies parallel -to the avenue, being on the north-east side, facing the south-west. It -is surrounded with beautiful trees, flowers, and an exceptionally -beautiful lawn. - -After climbing the long flight of stone steps (the whole building is of -white stone), we enter the rotunda of the Capitol. There we are greeted -by a beautiful Carrara marble interior, set off by statues and pictures -of those responsible for the early progress of South Dakota. From the -exact center of the building we may look up into the gigantic dome -fringed with remarkable paintings above exquisite balconies and alcoves. - - [Illustration: Grand Stairway, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.] - -To the left of the entrance we step into the main reception room of the -Governor. There we see that famous oil painting “The Spirit of -Progress,” by Blashfield, covering the entire north-west wall. Into the -room, if our visit were in 1927 or 1928, would come Governor Bulow, who -greeted President Coolidge to his summer white house. Governor Bulow -never failed to extend a warm welcome to the visitors at the Capitol. -His words delivered at a high school track meet in 1928 are typical of -him. “We are all competitors in contest of life. Upon our sportsmanship, -fairness, and hard training depends our position at the finish.” - -From the Governor’s suite we go to the office of the Secretary of State, -and thence through the offices of the Commissioner of Public Lands, and -that of the State Treasurer. - -In the other wing we see the rooms of the Supreme Court of South Dakota, -the offices of the judges, and the great Supreme Court Law Library. - - [Illustration: Senate Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.] - - [Illustration: House of Representatives Chamber, Capitol Building, - Pierre, S. D.] - -Now we descend the stairs to the lower floor. Here we find case after -case lining the entire basement, filled with Indian costumes, stone -instruments, arrow heads, war uniforms, and weapons of historical -importance, stuffed birds of S. D., bones of animals, present and past, -the first bag of sugar produced in South Dakota (encased in a silk bag) -and various other curios. On the walls are large framed pictures of many -of the early heroes and state officers of South Dakota. - -On this floor are the offices of the state Railroad Commission, Attorney -General, Public Examiner, Superintendent of Schools, Rural Credits -Board, Library Commission, Historical Society, and State Sheriff. Under -the steps is a lunch counter and confectionery stand, and in front of it -an information desk. Last but not least, in the north-west end of the -wing stands the gigantic moose. - -On the second floor we find the rooms of the state Senate and House of -Representatives, with adjoining lobbies and other rooms. - -On the third floor are balconies to the legislative rooms, and various -offices, including the automobile license department, the state banking -department, state securities commission, and others. - -From this floor a spiral stairway leads up, up, up, to the room above -the inner dome. From the dome room one can see the mighty turbulent -waters of the Missouri bubble and boil on their way. The great bridge is -in full view, with the railway bridge beyond. The scenes from the -“Capitol dome” are remarkable. A trip to Pierre would be incomplete -without this part. - -From the Capitol our trip takes us through the city of Pierre over the -bridge to Fort Pierre where first evidences of white men in S. D. were -found. A high flagpole now stands where the Verendrye Plate, planted in -1743, was found. - - [Illustration: Capital Building] - - [Illustration: The Verendrye Plate, found on the bluffs above Fort - Pierre, February 16, 1913. It was buried by La Verendrye, March 30, - 1743, when he was exploring the land for France. This is the first - evidence of white men in South Dakota. - - See the plate in the corridor at the Capitol.] - - - - - CHAPTER III - The Badlands - - -We cross the Missouri River on the morning of June 29th and speed along -through comparatively new but highly productive agricultural land, -through Hayes, Midland and Philip to Cottonwood. In Philip we find one -of the most modern small cities of the state. It is worth stopping to -see. When we arrive at Cottonwood, about three hours from Pierre, or a -little less than one hundred ten miles, the weather seems favorable and -the roads good so we turn south off U. S. highway 14. Only a few miles -out of Cottonwood we look ahead and see the city-like elevations far in -the distance. As we draw nearer this great wall of clay takes on a more -artistic contour of multicolored towers, peaks, and walls, resembling -ruins of ancient cities. - - [Illustration: Castle Turrets - Fuson Photo] - -Countless theories and possibilities enter one’s mind to account for -these magnificent walls, rising directly from a few feet to several -hundred feet from level country. The level plains are grass covered, but -the walls are practically bare. They are of almost pure sandy clay, with -a little soft shale in a layer near the top. They average from a hundred -to five hundred feet in height and are composed of several colors each, -some containing yellow, pink, orange and blue, others having still -different colors. For the most part the colors are plain or washed, but -some are very pronounced. - -Other sections of the Badlands are depressions from the grassy flats, -with enormous areas seemingly fallen straight down two to twenty feet, -with perpendicular sides. The beds of these great depressions are bare -yellow or white clay. - -Theories of the formation of these structures include “sea bottom,” -“erosion,” “volcanic eruptions,” etc. - - [Illustration: Summit of Cedar Pass, Interior - Canedy Photo] - -Seventeen miles from Cottonwood we drive through Cedar Pass into the -Badlands. The road winds around and around, through depressions and -through valleys between the great clay banks, ever leading upward. The -grandeur of the enormous colored banks and walls would impress even the -most barren minded person. - -If one is coming over the C. B. H., (or A Y P.); (U. S. 16 to be -specific), he must leave for S. D. No. 40 about fifteen miles west of -Kadoka, and he will emerge at Cedar Pass the same as though he came from -the north. The view is magnificent. - -Finally the road gets narrow and precipitous. The passes become more -crooked and the grades more steep. The road is bordered by profuse scrub -cedar trees. There is a thrill in that drive! At first it looks -dangerous, but the danger seems to minimize as we approach each more -steep and more crooked and more narrow section. By taking it slowly the -risk is small. (The road has since been improved.) - - [Illustration: Amphitheatre of the Wilds. In the Bad Lands - Canedy Photo] - - [Illustration: Vampire Peak in Cedar Pass, Interior. The entrance to - the Big Bad Lands - Canedy Photo] - - [Illustration: Studying the Bad Lands] - - [Illustration: Another Bad Lands Scene] - -We descend the south slope of the ridge, past the new Cedar Pass Camp, -and drive five miles or so over a good road into Interior. On the way, -however, we stop and walk for some distance among the hills. We find the -clay to be hard and firm, resembling baked mud in texture. Each rain -washes a little of the clay down, causing a gradual erosion through the -years. This process has gradually uncovered the remains of life of this -country at the time of its formation. We find a petrified tooth of some -great animal. The tooth is about four inches long and two wide. Some -distance farther we run across a mammoth rock formation embedded in the -clay. It resembles and may have been the remains of a turtle six or -seven feet in diameter, with head and feet protruding out of the bank. -From these same environs scientists have taken great petrified skeletons -of ancient mastodons, reptiles, birds and beasts of all shapes and -sizes. We can easily imagine how these beasts got bogged down in this -once soft, spongy ex-sea-bottom, there to remain through these -centuries. - -We spend more time than we had planned examining the place, so we find -ourselves in Interior for the night. We pitch camp, and during the night -receive our first rain on the trip. Our sympathy for the poor little -mouse who had appropriated a little of the tent roof for his nest is not -very pronounced. - -The next morning we rise early. We hike to “Big Foot,” a high clay ridge -south of town, and climb it. It proves much higher and more difficult to -climb than first appearances indicate. The climb is a thriller, -especially as the clay is a bit slippery this morning. - - [Illustration: Manitou Mountain in the Bad Lands] - -We return for breakfast, stopping in a field on the way to examine a -huge oil drilling rig which has been wrecked many years ago. It is made -almost entirely of oak, some timbers being two feet square and very -long. The main belt wheel is twelve feet in diameter, made also of wood. -To us this is a sight. - - [Illustration: Castle of Ancients, near Scenic - Canedy Photo] - -The bacon and coffee are more than welcome when we return. After -breakfast we strike camp and drive into town. There Palmer’s Curio shop -attracts us for some time. We leave with several calcium silicate -crystals and specimens of the world’s only sand crystals. - -The most interesting person met on our trip is found in Interior. He is -Mr. Henry Thompson, who runs a little souvenir stand called “The -Wonderland.” He wears long, flowing white hair and a great flowing -moustache of the same color. His acquaintance with the country dates -back many a year. - -No one going through Interior should miss him. He tells some very -interesting tales of early days in the West. Recently a motion picture -company used him in the role of the Patriarch Moses in the mountains. He -gives us a rehearsal of the role he played and recounts the garb of -animal skins he wore, and other interesting features of the adventure. -We listen with open mouths, and find it difficult to tear ourselves away -for the continuance of our journey. - -Twenty-four miles west of Interior, after traveling through the scenic -splendor of the Badlands we come upon a vast expanse of land covered -with a crust of once molten rock about an inch thick, now all broken -into fragments. The formation consists of two hardened layers of once -molten rock, probably of calcium silicate composition, smooth on the -outer edges and joined together by countless papilae, making the whole -look like two layers joined by a porous center. There is no doubt in -one’s mind, upon viewing it, that Satan must surely have had his -headquarters here at some time or other. - - [Illustration: Castle Rock in the Bad Lands, near Scenic - Canedy Photo] - -We follow State Highway Number 40 through other Badland wonders five -miles farther. The road is very good. At Scenic we visit the widely -known Museum Filling Station. Here we see a beautiful and interesting -collection of stones from the Black Hills. In fact the entire building -is covered with rocks, fossils and other interesting things embedded in -concrete. Prehistoric animal bones and Indian relics from the Badlands -are within. The bones, the curious animals, the pictures, the petrified -eggs, the skeletons, Indian relics and numerous other curios are -remarkable. - - [Illustration: The Alter in the Castles of the Ancients - Canedy Photo] - -They have attracted people from throughout the world, not for a hasty -examination but for extensive study. This place is one of the important -places to see in the Badlands. One cannot afford to miss it under any -circumstances. - -The vicinity of Scenic is known to scientists as the greatest fossil -field in the United States. Scenic is also an Indian trading post. - -South of Scenic are some of the most spectacular examples of erosion in -the United States. Some of the names assigned to them are: “Castle of -the Ancients,” “The Altar of the Gods,” “Castle Rock,” “Castle Turrets,” -“The Sphinx Twins,” “The Silent Sentinel,” “Amphitheater of the Wilds” -and “The Devil’s Golf Course.” These remarkable formations almost hold -us in reverent awe, so stupendous are they in their unusualness and -grandeur. - - [Illustration: LOWER ENTRANCE TO DILLON PASS - Canedy Photo] - -“Hell’s Ten Thousand Acres,” from Scenic south are equal in some ways to -the Grand Canyon of Colorado in their ruggedness. “Hell’s Sunken -Gardens,” south also, surpasses in beauty and magnitude anything of its -kind in the world. - - [Illustration: Bad Lands Museum, Scenic] - -Wounded Knee Battlefield, the last stand of the Sioux, is also south of -Scenic. Here hundreds of Indians, men, women and children, were -massacred by the soldiers when they stubbornly resisted the coming of -law and government to take from them their hunting grounds. These -Indians were all buried in one long grave, marked now with a tall marble -slab on which are chiseled the odd names of the Indian dead. - -The management of the Museum Filling Station is very enthusiastic about -the “Great Badlands.” They will furnish any additional information -desired and will furnish guides at a reasonable cost to those who desire -such in visiting the wonders to the south. - -From Scenic, trail 40 leads on to Rapid City. Some of the finer views of -the Badlands are found along this road. - -On to Rapid City we drive, over an excellent dirt road. We stop on the -Cheyenne River to eat our lunch. These little picnic grounds all help to -make the trip a really enjoyable vacation. We must stop at the turn in -the road for a drink of Nature’s purest nectar flowing through a huge -fountain. This is just a few miles before we reach Rapid City. - - [Illustration: A Bad Lands Scene] - - [Illustration: The Devil’s Golf Course, Scenic - Canedy Photo] - - [Illustration: The Silent Sentinel, Scenic - Canedy Photo] - -From Scenic to Rapid City is about forty-five miles. After leaving -Scenic the silhouetted black mountains, soon come into view. They are -visible in their magnificent grandeur, fifty miles distant, growing more -distinct as they are approached. Upon nearing them, if one is familiar -with the various peaks, he can pick each out and call it by name. - -We reach Rapid City in the eastern foothills, at four o’clock. The -School of Mines museum at the entrance to the city, also nationally and -internationally known, is our first point of interest in the “Hills.” - - [Illustration: The route taken] - - - - - CHAPTER IV - Rapid City - - -The School of Mines Museum is not an enormous affair. It is contained in -one large room belonging to the School of Mines. - -The bones of prehistoric animals are probably the best known and most -widely advertised part of the museum. This collection includes skulls, -jaw bones, teeth, leg bones, and in fact whole skeletons of the -prehistoric monsters. One cannot but wonder what life was like, and how -these animals acted in the days when they lived. The size and contour of -these skeletons are truly remarkable. - - [Illustration: On the Cheyenne] - -In cases throughout the room are displayed a vast variety of minerals, -ores, types of rock formations, replicas of famous diamonds, and -numerous other curios. On the south wall is an American flag, weighing -400 pounds, made of Black Hills minerals. On the east wall are two -excellent relief maps of gigantic proportions, showing relative heights -in the Black Hills. Guns and various other relics adorn the walls. No -visitor to the “Hills” can afford to miss this part of the trip. It may -take one half hour to a day, depending on one’s interest in the -displays, but the time is excellently spent. - - [Illustration: Camp made] - -From the School we drive into Rapid City, and after a bit of shopping, -on to the Municipal Tourist Camp. This camp is about four miles up Rapid -Canyon west of the city. - -By the time the tent is pitched and camp made a dinner does not meet an -unwelcome reception. Why the camp stove should choose this time to balk -is a still unanswered question. Somehow these appliances know when they -can aggravate one the most. - -Here in the Municipal Camp we receive a pleasant surprise. Instead of -the expected camp grounds we find a beautiful spot for pitching our -tent, “Old Swayback,” modern toilet facilities, a laundry with hot -water, stores, and best of all an honest to goodness “swimmin hole” in -Rapid Creek. - -True to the spirit of the Black Hills, Rapid City Municipal Camp has its -neat log cabin, with reading table, fireplace, electric lights, and -other conveniences for its guests. Tourists are welcomed there at any -and all times. These log cabins are a decided thrill to the traveler who -is not familiar with them. Later in this account there will be a -description of the typical log cabin. - -The camp cots, in which we have so much confidence at first, have begun -by this time to feel a bit hard, to seem a bit cold, and to afford a -rather meager sort of rest. But here Yankee ingenuity might come into -good play. - -The desirability of light steel camp beds instead of the cots and the -need of light mattresses becomes evident. - -Sunday morning proves an excellent time to get acquainted with the -habits of the Rapid Creek trout. Only three consent to being lured from -their swim, however. The fishing is rather slow but nevertheless -enjoyable. To a more experienced angler the luck is usually different. - - [Illustration: Warren-Lamb Saw Mill - Rise Photo] - -From fishing we turn to swimming. This proves to be a more lively sport. -The water is fine, just a least bit cool. The current is the feature of -this plunge. One no sooner gets out into it than he feels himself being -pulled very rapidly downstream. The sensation is not exactly reassuring. -In fact it frightens one. But it takes only a few strokes to get out of -the swift water into more placid pools. This learned, it becomes -pleasant to defy the current. Another surprise awaits. When one attempts -to swim back to the side from which he entered, the current carries him -past the precipitous rocks before he can pull himself out. No amount of -trying results otherwise. This is almost terrifying. Fortunately, at -this point a man happens along who is familiar with the pool. He shows -us where there is a small quiet spot where the swimmer can climb up on -the rocks without danger of being carried downstream. Again a precarious -situation develops into a pleasure. - -We wish to attend church, but have no clothing along except our camping -equipment. This convinces us that we should have brought along some more -respectable clothing for it will not be amiss on several occasions -during the trip. - - [Illustration: Rapid Canyon, near Dark Canyon - Photo by V] - -After lunch we drive up Rapid Canyon to Lockhart Inn. We go up the -mountainside to see the moss sculpturing by Mr. Lockhart called “A -Miner’s Dream.” Then we start the ascent up the Canyon on foot. This is -a climb that will pay one well. From Rapid Canyon we turn into Dark -Canyon ascending by rock ledge paths and canyon floor through beautiful -formations of nature’s handiwork. One cannot imagine the thrill, not -only of the scenery but also the thrill of accomplishment, a hundred per -cent pleasant that goes with this trip. Some of the sidelights of the -trip are “Sitting Bull’s Kitchen,” “Victoria Falls,” (a beautiful -waterfall), “Jungle of the Gods,” “Bridge of the Gods,” (a natural -bridge formerly over the canyon but now fallen in), and “Bear Cave.” The -picturesque grandeur of the panorama, the stupendous rocks, the great -precipices, the straight tall trees, the swift, cold, clear streams and -many other awe inspiring and pleasant experiences stamp themselves -indelibly upon our minds. The experiences include climbing precipitous -places, jumping and climbing over rocks, looking down over precipices -hundreds of feet below, continually discovering something new to enjoy. -The effect is invigorating, exhilarating, satisfying. The path is not -dangerous at any place, though filled with thrills, especially on the -paths built on ledges around the mountain. These are the rambles that -mean most to vacationists, and unfortunately they are too often left out -because of the time needed and the effort necessary to make them. - - [Illustration: Rim Rock Highway in the Black Hills - Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.] - - - - - CHAPTER V - Cement Plant - - -Monday morning we strike camp at 9:00 a. m. We drive into Rapid City, -get our snapshots of the Badlands which had been finished there, again -shop a bit, and drive out to the cement plant. - -First, however, a word about Rapid City. It is a thriving little city on -the eastern entrance to the Hills. The streets have a modern air to -them, with occasional reminders of the days of the “West.” During the -tourist season the city fairly teems with life. Prices are reasonable -and the people are courteous. The city resembles those farther east for -the most part, not being without the familiar Woolworth and Penny -stores. But the relics of cowboy days are still in evidence, and -specimens of fish and game, alive or mounted, are shown with no little -pride. - -The high school, where President Coolidge had his summer Capitol in -1927, is a place worth stopping to see. - -The State cement plant is run by the State of South Dakota. It employs -about 150 people. The plant consists of the quarries, the sheds for raw -rock, chutes, power house, crushers, the hydrating and baking plant, the -furnaces, the drying tanks, the sacking department, and the offices. -Each of the buildings is very large. The raw rock shed holds thousands -of tons of rock. Each of the ten storage or drying tanks holds 15,000 -barrels of cement. The plant can turn out twenty car loads a day, with -eight hundred to a thousand sacks to each car. - -The men work nine hours each day and sometimes ten. The plant closed -five months the first year, three the second, and this last year it -closed but one month. When we visit it, it has more orders than it can -fill. The South Dakota cement is a superior quality and is much in -demand. - -To the person interested in machinery the huge turbines and generators -are very interesting. These powerful affairs taking up but little room, -generate enough electrical power to run the whole enormous plant. - -In going through the plant one starts at the raw rock sheds. Here the -loading devices carry the stone over a conveyor into the crushers. From -there the material goes, by various processes to be soaked and made into -mud, mixed, dried in blast tubes by very intense heat and flame, crushed -again, run into drying tanks, and finally sacked and loaded into -boxcars. - -There are two men, known as sackers who, with the use of machinery, can -fill 15,000 to 20,000 sacks a day. They receive the empty sacks, tied by -wire at the top, and only open in one toe. This open toe is slipped over -a nozzle through which the cement pours into the sack suspended upside -down, resting on a small scale. When the proper weight of cement has -entered, the scale lets the bag down upon a conveyor belt and at the -same time shuts off the cement in the nozzle. - - [Illustration: South Dakota State Cement Plant, Rapid City] - -The flap inside the toe of the sack pulls across the hole closing the -sack. Each man has four sacks filling at once, and he has just barely -time to put on a sack and re-adjust his machinery before the next sack -is ready. The conveyor belts carry the filled bags to a chute which -deposits them in the box car, one on either side of the sacker. Each of -the many machines throughout the plant is driven by a small but powerful -electric motor. - - [Illustration: A visitor in the forests of the Black Hills] - -The cement plant is not one of nature’s wonders, but one of the products -of God’s masterpiece, man. It and other mechanical achievements are -hardly less to be marvelled at than the natural wonders, themselves. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - Crystal Cave - - -From the cement plant we take U. S. Highway number 16 through Black Hawk -and Piedmont to Crystal Cave. On this road we encounter the second -notable man-made achievement. The car begins to register a few degrees -of added heat in the cooling system. Before we reach the top of the -great hill, (several miles long), we pass several cars which have not -been as effectively cooled as our own. The grade has been gradual and -even, clear from the bottom to the top of the mountain. The road winds -around vale and crag, often having had to be cut through solid rock or -cut into a niche on the steep side of the mountain. It is a feat of -engineering skill capable of firing the imagination of anyone. - - [Illustration: Entrance to Crystal Cave] - -About sixteen miles out of Rapid City we come to the huge arrow and sign -pointing to Crystal Cave. The distance it was to be from the main road -is given us on the sign board; it seems twice as far. The road is no -longer smooth and surfaced or the grades regular or straight. These -“side” roads are fast being improved, and probably by another year this -one will be fairly smooth, and wide enough for two cars to pass -anywhere. We find it a bit rough, rutted, winding through dense -vegetation, and narrow. However, in dry weather the driving there is -safe, comparatively easy, and enjoyable. The scenery is quite -picturesque. To those interested in birds, trees, and flowers this will -be a splendid bit of road. - -After some little time, a half hour or less, we arrive at the cave -entrance. - - [Illustration: Bridal Veil, Crystal Cave] - -The headquarters are located in a little log cabin with a wide veranda -where one can see specimens from the cave and where souvenirs may be -bought. The new cave entrance, pictured herewith is just above the -cabin. - -When a large enough party has gathered, a guide lights many gasoline -lanterns and we are told to file into the cave entrance. As we do so the -guide distributes the lights. After this he takes the lead. - -We go into the cave in our regular clothing, without needing slickers or -other special equipment. It might be said, however, khaki clothing and -hobnailed boots are not so bad for a trip of this kind. The same holds -for mountain climbing. High heels are decidedly a detriment to progress, -and somewhat precarious as well, where the footing is moist or steep. - - [Illustration: The Butcher’s Face, Crystal Cave] - -With our lanterns we file after the guide. He leads us down and forward -into the bowels of the earth, stopping occasionally to explain the -various formations which we are passing. His “line” is strongly based on -fact, and if one has a good imagination he can enjoy the trip, being -able to “see” the various animals, rooms, or formations which the guide -points out. - - [Illustration: The Frozen River, Crystal Cave - O’Neill Photo] - -First, the cave has been formed in limestone, through erosion by water, -extending over many thousands of years. The mineral part of the water -has hardened in perfect crystals, looking as though they had been cut. -These crystals cling to the walls, creating a beautiful effect. They are -as hard as rock. - -Some of the high lights of the trip are “Devil’s Ice Box,” “Moses’s Meat -Market,” with hams, bacon and a chicken hanging from the ceiling, “The -Butcher Himself” (pictured), in his parlor, “Poverty Flats,” “Corcham’s -Art Gallery,” which contained well hung walls, and even a goat. Then -came “Cathedral Cave,” with its crystalline rolling clouds. “The Polar -Bear,” “Diamond Rock,” made of pulverized mica, and “Santa Claus.” - -There are stalactites hung from the tops of some of the caves and -stalagmites built up from the floors, each of which if it could talk -could tell stories that would be ancient history to Moses. - -Going on, we come to “Old Man Cave” and “Black Hills Bakery.” In the -latter were buns (of solid rock), rolls and loaves of bread, natural -formations. From here we go into a room 300 feet below the surface and -put out the lights. It is very dark there, even in the daytime. - -We light the lanterns, pass on, and come to the “Whale that Jonah -swallowed.” Next comes the “Mayflower,” and last the trip out. The -“Bridal Veil” and “Frozen River” were among the most picturesque of the -scenes, the exact position of which are not recalled. - -Most of the rooms and passages are six to twelve feet in height. Some -are hundreds of feet deep and some are too close to the floor for the -unwary head. These rocks do not give very far when one’s head hits them. - -Our guide is a decidedly congenial and unassuming young man. He wins the -favor of all of the party, keeping the spirits high through the whole -trip. - -One half mile down, on the road from Crystal Cave is a sign pointing -toward Knife Blade Rock. This is a gigantic thin rock formation rising -600 feet out of the bed of the canyon. The origin of this phenomenon -also kindles one’s imagination. - -When viewing Knife Blade Rock we stand on a high precipitous canyon wall -and look nearly straight down hundreds of feet into the Elk Creek -Canyon. This view is magnificent; the great deep canyon, the precipitous -cliff, Knife Blade, and the expansive opposite bank covered with heavy -vegetation. - - [Illustration: Cabin] - -From here we move on toward Sturgis about ten miles distant. - - - - - CHAPTER VII - Sturgis - - -The road to Sturgis is pretty well crowded with cars headed for the -Tri-State Roundup at Belle Fourche. We arrive about four o’clock. The -next hour is spent in getting boots repaired, getting haircuts and in -replenishing the food supply. - -We still have a good supply of eggs, butter, bacon, fruit, and -vegetables which we packed up on the farm before starting the trip. At -each tourist camp we get plenty of fresh vegetables and milk. We -appreciate the vegetable and store service of the camps. It is -excellent. This, with the food stove, utensils and dishes we brought -with us on the trip, makes our food question simple and economical as -well as highly satisfactory. We enjoy every meal. - - [Illustration: Bear Butte in the Distance] - -Sturgis has one of the best tourist parks we encountered on the trip. -The camp is equipped with excellent little cottages for those who prefer -them. It has a main camp building containing running spring water, -modern toilet facilities with hot and cold water, shower baths and a -laundry. Bear Butte Creek flows directly behind our tent. Above our -heads are electric lights. Beside the thrill and exhilaration of camping -the conveniences are almost equal to those enjoyed in a first class -hotel. The nice shady camp site, however, to the person enjoying the -out-of-doors makes a hotel feel like a dungeon. The tent takes but a few -minutes to set up and it adds tremendously to the pleasure of an outing. - - [Illustration: Bear Butte, close up - O. A. Vik] - -We get a good night’s rest in the Sturgis park and rise early the -following morning to partake of the nice hot flap-jacks, bacon, coffee -and oatmeal. (We will need it all before lunch time). - -We start out bright and early to climb Bear Butte. We take trail No. 79 -out to the northeast of Sturgis. We leave the highway a few miles out -and take the Bear Butte trail. What looked like a mile or two proves to -be seven or eight, and what looked like a small mound proves to be a -huge formation rising nearly a thousand feet above its base. - -We had hoped to prance right up to the top on short notice. Our troubles -start when we cannot decide whether we are supposed to go up the east or -south slope. We find later that either is sufficiently difficult. We -finally flounder around to a farm house near the south slope, leave the -car and start up. - - [Illustration: Climbing Bear Butte. It is more steep than it looked] - -The slope is steep and progress slow. The whole party of us begin the -climb. When we reach the shale slope and have to climb instead of walk, -only three of us are still going. Even our shoes show the effects of the -rocks. Well, we climb for an hour and finally find ourselves on the top -of this promontory which we have by this time learned to respect. The -pictures show the size of the rocks compared with the humans climbing -them. - -The view from here is excellent. We can see Mt. Roosevelt, Harney Peak, -White Rocks and other peaks with which we are acquainted standing out in -distant relief. The plains stretch out for miles and miles to the north -and east, and the picturesque mountains are spread in the other -directions. It seems almost as though this peak towers above the entire -surrounding country on all sides. The view is well worth the hard climb -necessary to attain it. The U. S. Geological Survey marker on the top -indicates that the height is 4439 feet above the sea level, 987 feet -above the city of Sturgis which, is 3452 feet. (See appendix.) - -We descend in somewhat better time than it took us to go up, have lunch -and return to camp. From here we take trail 24 for about two miles out -to Ft. Meade, a military post. Here we watch a polo game and guard -mount. In the camp are stationed about 750 U. S. regular army artillery -men and cavalrymen. - -While at Sturgis we should take the Boulder Canyon road to Deadwood but -we miss this scenery as well as Rim Rock Drive above Rapid Canyon. -Boulder Canyon is one of the most picturesque roads in the Hills, so -enormous are its perpendicular figured rock walls. - - [Illustration: The Shale Slope, Bear Butte] - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - Belle Fourche - - -We retire early on the night of the third and are on the road early the -next morning, headed for Belle Fourche over U. S. 16. At Whitewood we go -over another gigantic ridge of hills which taxes our heavily loaded car. -At Spearfish we take U. S. 85 and gradually leave the mountains for the -more level northern plains. - -We arrive in a very busy Belle Fourche. The streets are lined with -people, refreshment stands, side shows and various other gala sights. -Parking room is scarce. The whole town reflects the western spirit. The -predominating costume is that of the cowboy dressed up. Broad rimmed, -high crowned hats and bright silk neckerchiefs are everywhere. - - [Illustration: President Coolidge at the Roundup - Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.] - -Probably a Scotch visitor would not exactly appreciate the reception. -The Roundup is a gala affair. The people come there to spend money. -Those running the various amusements and refreshment stands seem to -understand this perfectly and render all possible assistance. In the -West the celebrations are not marked with the conservatism of the East. - -We enjoy the day after we get our bearings. We have lunch after a couple -of hours of “seeing Belle” and then go out to the Roundup. The road is -packed; we have started none too soon. True to the training of school -teachers, we try to conserve on costs as much as possible. We have paid -a dollar apiece for general admission and now we decide a fifty cent -seat will be nearly as good as one for a dollar or more. - - [Illustration: An Exciting Ride - Bill Pawley on a high one. - Cody Stampede, 1921] - -We get excellent bleacher seats, but somehow they get surprisingly hard -during the three hours and over that we sit there. The sun is -uncomfortably hot and the folks climbing up and down are none too -careful at whose expenses they get the dust brushed from their shoes. We -can not see the events very plainly in some cases, but we are not -cheated out of very much of the performance at that. - -The clown car opens the day. Of course it is a Ford. But the clown has -done his duty and the affair brings forth more than forced smiles. The -Rapid City Bugle Corps, the Cavalry Band (mounted) from Fort Meade, and -the C. & N. W. Band from Chicago are outstanding attractions. - -The cow pony race comes next, then roping and the cowboy relay. Those -cowboys can certainly change saddles from one pony to another in a hurry -and also ride. Following this comes exhibitions in horseback hurdling by -cavalrymen. Then comes a contest of cowboys riding steers. The man who -stays with his steer longest wins. Some of those fellows get pretty hard -spills. The broncho riding contest is just as lively. The horses try -hard enough to unseat their riders and many of them succeed. The clown, -in enormous red “Shaps,” rides a bucking steer upon which he is mounted -backward. - - [Illustration: Steer riding] - -The cowgirl race is a close one, the winner almost having to win by the -proverbial sticking out of the horse’s tongue. - -After this comes stunt riding and trick riding. The men, and women, too, -ride at a gallop doing head stands on the saddle, standing upright, at -right angles to the horse, clinging beneath the horse’s neck, seated -backward and in various other ways. They do gymnastics on the horses in -full gallop. One juggles balls in the air while riding, standing on the -saddle at full gallop. One lies on his back whirling a rope while the -horse beneath him runs. The clown rides a bucking Missouri mule. - - [Illustration: The Horse Wins - Dug Walker off Ripvanwinkle - White River Frontier Days - O’Neill Photo] - -For deviation, songs are sung amplified so that the crowd can hear them. -One is “Black Hills Rosebud.” Governor Bulow gives a short talk, too. - -Bulldogging steers, or riding up beside them, grasping them by the -horns, at full run, dismounting and throwing them upon their backs seems -to be the most popular sport. The record time is under nine seconds. - -The cowgirl relay is another exciting event. A cowgirl then puts on a -highly applauded solo dance. After this comes the calf roping contest. -This calls for real action. Riders, mounted on two horses, one foot on -each, furnished the next race. One girl is entered. - - [Illustration: Orman Dam, Belle Fourche] - -Mabel Strickland, famous woman rider, puts on a steer roping exhibition -and the bucking mule riding contest follows. Then comes the wild horse -race. During the whole performance Clyde Ice of the Rapid Transit Co. is -hovering over the fairgrounds with his tri-motored Ford passenger plane. - -The last event is an exhibition by one of the girls riding a bucking -horse. The horse throws the young lady before leaving the corral shute. -Accidents occasionally occur in this rough play, though they are rarely -fatal. All in all, the performance is very good. - - [Illustration: U. and I. Sugar Plant, Belle Fourche, South Dakota - O’Neill Photo - - This is one of the large plants for making sugar from beets located in -the midwestern states. This plant is supplied with beets from the Belle -Fourche Valley, irrigated from the great irrigation project administered - by the United States Government, and located north of Belle Fourche. -Needless to say this is one of the major industries of this part of the - state.] - -After the program there are twenty thousand people trying to leave the -grounds at once and soon after the roads from Belle Fourche receive a -goodly share of these people. We follow the southbound stream as far as -the tourist camp, a mile or two out. - -Belle Fourche has a modern camp, although it is just in the process of -construction and not yet as complete as some of the others. They have an -outdoor dance floor, which is very popular on the night of the Fourth. - -The morning of the fifth we drive back through Belle Fourche and east -over U. S. Highway 212 to the “U. and I.” sugar plant. This is another -of the Black Hills industries. We are given a pamphlet telling us that: -the plant covers eight acres; the main building is five stories high; -the length of the factory and warehouse is 587 feet; the capacity is -fifteen hundred tons of beets each twenty-four hours, and the output -3600 hundred pound bags of sugar every day. Three hundred men are -employed during refining season. - -A guide takes us through. We first see six 400 horsepower boilers and -two 1200 horsepower generators. These are enormous affairs. They develop -the power for the plant. We proceed to the place where the beets are -unloaded and conveyed through an open flume, through a trash catcher to -the washer. - - [Illustration: Spillway, Orman Dam] - -From here the beets are taken by an elevator to the top of the plant. -There knives cut them into small strings less than a half inch in -diameter. These chips or “spaghetti” are run into diffusion tanks. They -first go to a liming station, then through sulfur stoves, a bleaching -process and on into evaporating tanks. Here the solution is concentrated -from 12 per cent sugar to 65 per cent pure. Then the sugar is put -through a centrifugal crystalizer and through a hot air blast dryer. It -takes just twenty-four hours from beets to sugar. All machinery is -electric. - -The factory produced 183,000 bags of sugar last year or over eighteen -million pounds. About one-fourth of this is in the warehouse when we -visit it. The beets were grown on 11,000 acres in 1927 and the total -crop was 35,000 tons of beets. - - [Illustration: An Irrigation Canal] - -We go further east on the highway 212 to the byroad leading north to -Orman Dam. The dam is a gigantic affair, holding back a tremendous -amount of water for use in irrigating land for sugar beets and other -crops. The water is so clear that we can see the fish swimming beneath -its surface. - -The Belle Fourche Reclamation Project is one of the wonders of the -western part of South Dakota. It is not in the “Hills” proper, but is -well worth going to see. We drive on to Nisland, observing the effects -of irrigation as we go. - - - - - CHAPTER IX - Spearfish - - - [Illustration: U. S. Government Fish Hatchery at Spearfish] - -From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche to Spearfish. -There we find another splendid and modern camp. We enjoy staying at -these camps of which their cities are justly proud. The cost is the same -fifty cents per night as that of the less developed camps. But the -modern toilet facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community -log cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system -create in the traveler’s heart a warm feeling toward those cities or -towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which people from all over -the United States meet and talk over experiences is a source of lasting -pleasure to the conversational type. The large cars of eastern -manufacturers and the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota -or the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots of people -gather here and there about the camp or in the community building and -the topic is likely to be anything from sheep raising in Perkins county -or mica mining at Keystone to the workings of the New York Stock -Exchange. Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped and -friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are neighbors and class -spirit does not exist. It would surprise one how he can broaden his -knowledge through these contacts. - -No matter whether one’s interest is fishing, swimming, camping or -gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group in camp. - - [Illustration: Lookout Mountain near Spearfish] - -The United States trout hatchery is located beside the Spearfish camp, -just across the bridge to the south. Here the United States government -maintains tanks in which they raise several varieties of trout. There is -a different size in each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout -to the sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for just one -chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow beauties are a sight to -behold. If one can get around there at feeding time he will behold a -still greater treat. - -Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent little swimming -pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek. A swim in one of these clear -mountain streams is a rare treat. The visitor in the “Hills” should plan -to indulge as often as possible. - - [Illustration: Spearfish Creek, Lead, S. D.] - - [Illustration: Maurice, In Spearfish Canyon - O. A. Vik] - - [Illustration: Bridal Veil Falls] - -The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish Canyon. The road -leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into the mountains and woods over -ground owned or leased by the Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly -well worn but poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is -not one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will be -improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds over gentle slopes -and makes sharp turns. One must drive under twenty miles per hour and -sound his horn often. But a person does not realize the marvelous beauty -that lies hidden in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile -or two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out and press -through the timber until he comes to a place from which he can view a -great expanse of the valley and wall before he can fully appreciate -Spearfish Canyon. - - [Illustration: Admiring the Falls] - -Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The car must be -parked beside the road and the ascent up the steep canyon wall continued -on foot. The cave lies a quarter of a mile or so up. The climb to it is -steep and part of the way is over rocks washed by springs. - -The path leads through dense growths of timber and shrubs. At last we -come to a huge overhanging cliff, below which is the Wildcat Cave. Over -the top of the cliff clear cold spring water half drips, half runs -continually. At various places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The -one little waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty feet -of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious he might climb the -crags clear to the top of the mountain on the right. - - [Illustration: Savoy - Canedy Photo] - -Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we come to Bridal -Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with not much volume but a -great height. Probably it falls 200 feet and is twenty feet wide on the -average. The spectacle of this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace -like folds tumbling over the succeeding layers of rock make -unquestionably the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop -at its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty. - - [Illustration: Multiplex Falls] - -From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to the Spearfish -hydro-electric water flume. Above that is Roughlock Falls and the -Homestake hydro-electric plant, and we must not forget Latchstring Inn. -Foolish is the visitor who turns back before seeing all of these, if -weather conditions permit. - -After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence fifteen miles -over into Wyoming. We could go on west to Devil’s Tower, but that would -mean a long trip. So we just cross the State line and return. Here the -fun begins for us. The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever -increasing. We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood this -evening, and accordingly break camp and set out. We have gone a few -miles when the rain comes down in torrents. Fortunately the roads are -good, but we have to drive with the windshield cleaner working -constantly. We enjoy the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain. - -We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn south on U. S. 85 -for another five miles. On the way we come to Preacher Smith’s monument. -This has been erected in honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood’s first minister. - -The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the first settlers when -gold was discovered. He preached to whoever would listen to him. One day -he headed for the vicinity of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was -advised not to start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted -that his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument stands -near where the Indians killed him. Several authors have told the story -of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested in the story should by all means -read it from some authentic source. - - - - - CHAPTER X - Pine Crest Camp - - -The road from Spearfish rises gradually. At the highest point on the -road, thirteen miles from Spearfish, the entrance to Pine Crest Camp -comes into view. This is a really beautiful camp. It is one hundred per -cent what its name implies. - -A camp built over one of the tent floors is comfortable even in rainy -weather. However, if experience is any teacher, it might be said that -trying to sleep under a hole in the tent roof on a rainy night is a -pleasure only to the other fellow. - -In the evening, after camp is built and dinner served, a walk to the -community house proves a worth while venture. Pine Crest gives us the -heartiest welcome of any place in the “Hills.” In the log community -house, (it is a masterpiece of masterpieces), a cheerful fire awaits. -The ample stone fireplace seems doubly welcome on a rainy night. Does it -feel good? Say! - -In the cabin are gathered a group of high school girls from Lead, a -family from Kansas City, a Canadian, some Ohio people, Texans and -several others. And a jolly time we have. Stories starts the program. -Music follows and a lively community dance tops it off. The atmosphere -is that of one great big family gathered together after a long -separation. - -Under the cabin, in a well finished basement are modern toilet rooms, a -laundry, and shower baths. There is both hot and cold water. The whole -is free to the tourists who are camped in the park. The initial fifty -cents a night covers the entire cost. - -Our enjoyable evening draws to a close and we return to the tent for a -good night’s rest. - -The experiences from now on are to be on historic ground. - - [Illustration: Community House—Pine Crest Park—Deadwood, S.D.] - - - - - CHAPTER XI - Lead - - -Pine Crest proves to be such a good camp that we decide to make it our -headquarters for a day or two. In the morning we put up a lunch and -drive over to Lead. Of course the first and foremost point of interest -in Lead is Homestake Mine. We stop at the Burlington Railway station and -register for the trip through the mine buildings. It is only a few -moments before we are ready to start. - -We follow our young lady guide up a steep incline. Half way up she stops -us and asks us to face about. Clear across the gulch on the opposite -side of town is a huge cut, where the hill is virtually cut in two. -This, she tells us is the site of the first mine, a surface working. We -are told that $20,000,000 worth of gold came from this cut. - - [Illustration: Homestake Mills, Lead, S.D.] - -We go on up the hill to the Ellison shaft, the one now being used most -extensively. There the ore is coming up from the 2300 foot level, by -hoists and seven ton cars. It is dumped into a conveyor belt, and passes -the pickers. We go next to see the giant air compressors for maintaining -circulation of air in the mines. - -The hoist room contains large drums driven by 1400 horse power electric -motors working on direct current. These huge affairs bring the heavy -cars up from the mine in a very short time. Their speed and precision -are remarkable, considering their enormous size. The room is immaculate. - -From the hoist room we go to the shop where diamond drills are -sharpened. These are tubular bars of hard iron, with hollow centers, and -sharp edges on one end in the form of a cross. They are used with the -electric drill down the mine, working on the plan of the electric -riveter. When dull these points are brought to the surface, pounded into -shape in a trip hammer, while white hot, and tempered very hard. - -The motor generator which is driven by alternating current and delivers -direct current is a huge affair. It has to be in order to develop enough -direct current to drive the heavy machinery. Its flywheel alone weighs -thirty-five tons. - -In the blacksmith shop all of the blacksmith work of the mine is done. -Repairs are made, castings are made, gears are cut, and iron is pounded -into shape. A pair of shears is cutting iron ¾ inch thick for a boiler. -The ease with which it goes through this mass is astounding. Lathes are -plaining blocks of iron or gears into shape. These lathes are cutting -shavings a half-inch thick. In the molding room molten iron is being -poured into casts, covered with sand, and allowed to cool. - -Now comes the real gold mill. The first part we come to is the rock -crusher or rod mills. From the rod mills the material is taken to the -stamper, where it is mixed with water. The solution passes to dewatering -cones and cleaner troughs. Rod mills crush the ore to powder, which, -with water makes a mud. The mud passes through troughs containing -mercury. Most of the gold leaves the mud and clings to the mercury. - -The remaining solution goes to sand slime separation cones and then to -cyanide tanks. The tanks are filled with mud. The water drains off. -Cyanide is poured over the mass. The cyanide sinks, carrying the -remaining gold of the crushed ore to the bottom with it. This is -reclaimed and the mud is washed out and sent down the gulch. - -The trip is an interesting one. The guide now tells us that the gold is -molded into bricks worth twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars. -Approximately sixteen are made each month. - - [Illustration: B & M. Shop #2 - One of the buildings of the Homestake Mining Company’s - Lead, S.D.] - -Quoting from literature distributed by the mining company the following -might be of interest: - -“The Black Hills are highly mineralized, containing practically every -known element to a greater or lesser degree. Lead is the home of the -Homestake mining company, the largest gold mining concern in the world. -The company has been running continuously since 1877 and has taken from -the ground approximately 56,000,000 tons of ore yielding $200,000,000 of -gold (now over $212,000,000.) In order to produce an annual output of -$6,000,000 about 2,000 men are steadily employed. The average daily -output is 43500 tons, or 1,750,000 tons annually. There is enough ore -blocked out to furnish the mills with this many tons a day for nine -years. - -“More than 1,554,117 pounds, or 3,108,234 sticks of 40% dynamite was -used in 1927, costing over $500 a day. In 1927, 3,816,724 feet or over -722 miles of fuse was used. If this were in one length it would take 971 -days, 21 hours and 22 minutes and 8 seconds for the flame to traverse -it. More than a million blasts were set off during the year. - -“The company has never undertaken to furnish houses. It has, however, -encouraged the building of homes by giving free permits to occupy -company ground and by advancing the purchase price and allowing the -employee to pay on the monthly payment plan with a low rate of interest -on deferred payments. After forty years of continuous operation as the -sole industry of the community there are few company owned houses in -Lead. Under this policy the town has grown from a typical mining camp -with its log cabins and board shacks, into a modern small city with -paved streets, sewer and water systems, electric lights and beautiful -homes, owned largely by their occupants. The grocer, the butcher, and -the hardware dealer, the clothier and the real estate men carry on their -business in this mining camp as in an ordinary town of equal size. Keen -competition keeps prices at a reasonable level. - -“No part of the welfare work at the Homestake has met the needs of the -people more fully than the free library, originally a Christmas gift -from the late Phoebe H. Hearst in 1894, now carried on through the -generosity of her son William Randolph Hearst, with present quarters on -the second floor of the recreation building. Now the library contains -approximately 14,000 volumes. In the reading room are eighty -periodicals, of which two are foreign. The close proximity of the high -school enables the library to render valuable assistance to teachers and -pupils. - -“A smoking room is provided for the men, and the children have an alcove -for their particular use, provided with low tables and suitable chairs. -One end of the stack room is used for mineral exhibits, especially the -minerals of the Black Hills region. - -“The Kindergarten, opened in 1900, is also maintained by the generosity -of the Hearst family. - -“A small, but well kept park nearby provides a place for outdoor play -during the summer months. The kindergarten has been an inestimable aid -to the public school by giving the children of foreign birth a start in -the English language and teaching them something of American ways and -manners, thus relieving them of the handicap resulting from their -foreign parentage. It has also proved a large factor in Americanizing -the parents by both direct and indirect contact with the teachers. - -“The Homestake company, supporting a liberal policy toward the schools, -feels that it is fully repaid by the stabilizing influence on its -working force, due to the fact that men with families are attracted to -Lead on account of its educational advantages. Many of the young men who -are now holding important positions in the shops, mills, assay and -engineering departments are graduates of the Lead High School. - - [Illustration: Old Mine Entrances] - -“The Homestake Recreation Building, built and equipped by the Homestake -Mining Company at a cost of $250,000 was opened to the public in 1914. -It is a three story brick and stone structure of the latest design and -well lighted, heated, and ventilated. No expense is spared to make this -the recreation place of the employes and their families, and all -residents of Lead are given the same privileges as employes, so that it -is a community house in the fullest sense. No membership fee is charged. -Everybody is welcome and all are treated as special guests by the -attendants. The only rules posted are those governing the length of time -one set of players may use the various tables and games, and specifying -the days when the men, women, and children may use the plunge. The -average monthly attendance is about 25,000. - -“On the first floor of the building is a large rest room furnished with -easy chairs and lounges with tables for chess, cards, and other games, -and directly in the rear of this room is the billiard room, with two -regulation billiard and two pocket billiard tables. In alcoves of the -rest room are three tables for children between the ages of six and -sixteen. About 2,500 persons play on these tables during the month. - - [Illustration: Mucking - April 21, 1933 - Homestake Mining Co. - Working in the gold mines at Lead] - -“Below the rest room is the gymnasium and a bowling alley of six alleys -equipped with automatic pin setters. Over 2,000 persons use these alleys -each month, including the ladies who have one day each week. The -gymnasium is well equipped, and is also used by two bands as a practice -room. - -“In the rear of the rest room, and with a separate street entrance is a -well furnished theatre with a seating capacity of 1,000. Moving pictures -are shown both afternoon and evening, with road shows and vaudeville -when available. The average monthly attendance is about 20,000. - - [Illustration: A view in the cyanide plant of the gold mining plant at - Lead] - -“Under the theatre auditorium and directly in the rear of the bowling -alley is a tank 25×75 feet with a depth of water ranging from 4 to 9 -feet. The plunge and floor are lined with white tile. Change rooms, -shower baths, and hair driers are provided for the bathers. The water is -heated, filtered, disinfected, and changed frequently. The plunge is -patronized by approximately 1800 persons per month, about equally -divided among men, women, girls, and boys. - -“A small room called the sun room, because of its particularly sunny -exposure, is used as a meeting place by various clubs, societies, and -committees. - -“There is no charge for the use of any part of the building to Homestake -employees and their families, or to residents of Lead, except for the -theatre where a nominal charge is made to cover the cost of pictures and -other attractions. - -“The company erected at a cost of more than $60,000 a thoroughly modern -brick hospital of thirty-five bed capacity which furnishes absolutely -free to its employees and their dependents every type of medical, -surgical and obstetric treatment. No charge is made for any hospital -care, operating fees, or for medicines. - -“The employees and dependents make very great use of this service as -shown by the 1922 annual report. Forty-three thousand people were taken -care of in the dispensary, fourteen thousand visits were made at the -homes and one hundred forty-three confinements were handled.” - -The Homestake Employees Aid association is an organization to help the -employees. Also: - -“The company retires its old employees on account of old age, physical -disability, giving them 25% of last year’s full pay plus $10.00 per year -for each year’s service with the company, but in all not to exceed $600 -per year. - -“There were 64 men (1928) receiving pensions of from $350 to $600 per -year. The average age of those receiving pensions, at the time of -retirement was over 65 and the average years service is nearly -thirty-one. - - [Illustration: Weighing Gold Bricks in the assay office] - -“A pension is also paid to the widows of new men who lost their lives by -accident prior to the enactment of the state compensation law. - -“Every effort is made, both in the mine and in the surface plants to -provide sanitary working conditions. Bubbling drinking fountains are -placed in convenient places both underground and in the mills and shops, -and provided with clear, cold, wholesome water. Clean, well heated and -ventilated change rooms are provided with hot and cold water and -individual lockers for clothes. A special underground latrine is used in -the mine. Ventilation of the underground workings is carefully -supervised. - -“Seventy-five per cent of the Homestake employees are English speaking -nationalities. In the other twenty-five Italians predominate. - -“Many religious denominations are represented in Lead, and most of them -have an organization and a place of worship. The Homestake company makes -a yearly contribution of $200 to each church holding regular services, -and renders other material aid in various ways.” - - [Illustration: Tourist Camp] - -Thus we see that South Dakota, and more specifically Lead has an -industry not only of enormous size but with the most modern and -progressive practices known to civilization. A trip through it is enough -to stimulate the imagination rather decisively of anyone mechanically or -industrially inclined. Here is an organization whose social, industrial, -mechanical, and personnel organization is worked out and administered on -modern scientific principles, with the interests and safety of its -employees ever in the fore. - -From the mine we go up the hill through Lead to “Mile High Camp,” where -we eat lunch. This camp is a very nice camp of little earlier date than -some of the others. Jubilee camp on the West branch of U. S. 85, just on -the edge of town is another good camp. It is situated on a very high -point, overlooking Lead on one side and beautiful tree covered -mountains, cliffs and valleys, on the other. - -We follow U. S. 85 toward Cheyenne Crossing and Newcastle. The road -leads through Icebox Canyon. This canyon was properly named. Even on -this hot July day it is very decidedly cool. In addition, it is a -beautiful drive. The tall stately pines have almost a noble look to -them. - -The road leads over long gradual grades, up hills and through valleys. -There are camps and cabins along this route, and the trout fishing is -good. Icebox Springs, is a very cold spring six miles from Lead and 6270 -feet above sea level. Here we get a drink of clear, cold water, -maintained as such without the aid of refrigeration. The spring pours -right out of the side of the canyon. Terry Peak, within 200 feet of the -same height as Harney, rises a short distance from the trail. - -This again is historical ground. In the early days the Deadwood-Cheyenne -stage and treasure coaches traveled over this route. Here were the -scenes of the early hold-ups, fights with bandits, and murders of the -stage people. - -Here was the testing ground of civilization. To see the present Black -Hills one could hardly believe that less than fifty years ago it went -through the wild formative period of outlawry, Indian fighting, and the -gold rush. Cheyenne Crossing is but a couple of small cabins, a sort of -outpost. Here we turn about and return to “Pine Crest.” - -From Lead we take the old mines road back to Deadwood. This leaves town -near Jubilee camp, making a loop to the north. Along the road, just out -of Lead are cabins variously named: “Travellers Rest,” “Tramp Inn,” -“Saloon,” “Bucket o’Blood,” “Haven of Rest,” etc. - -Along this road we see remains of old placer mines, mining mills, and -various other remains of early mining. Most of them are now abandoned. -Nevertheless one can imagine the life that must have been enacted here a -few decades ago. Central City, and other former thriving cities are now -but vestiges of what was once the splendor of Deadwood Gulch. Now, only -an occasional inhabitant and a number of run down buildings remain. - -It is almost marvelous to think that a country could pass from the -extreme of an outlaw West to the highly modern civilization that Lead -and Deadwood present today. No place on earth but the progressive -pioneer western community with its fertile and indomitable brains could -do it. - -At the camp that night part of the crowd of the previous night is -present, and quite a number of new people. Another very enjoyable -evening is spent. - - [Illustration: Cabin] - -[Illustration: Deadwood, today. Located in Deadwood Gulch. Scene of the - most exciting of Gold Rush Episodes] - - - - - CHAPTER XII - Deadwood - - -In Deadwood, the next morning we take our way to the Franklin Hotel, -then south, over the railroad tracks to Mt. Moriah Cemetery. We are now, -indeed on historic ground. Probably it would be well to reiterate some -of the setting before going up to the cemetery to view the resting place -of the famous early characters. - -Deadwood was settled in 1876. When gold was discovered here -approximately 25,000 people rushed for Deadwood. Rumor, brought to us -through the years, says that within twenty-four hours after the city of -Custer heard of the Deadwood gold discovery its population had decreased -from between six and ten thousand to less than a hundred people. They -left on horseback, on foot, by ox team, by stage, and by wagon, taking -camping and mining equipment with them, and stores of food. - - [Illustration: Richard Wm. Clark, and his original cabin - Bell Photo] - -Deadwood was transformed from a gulch full of dead timber to a lawless -city. The one aim of everybody was gold. Some got it in the thousands of -industrious mining projects, most of them one man or a few men placer -mines. Some got it by selling food and supplies, some got it by -gambling, and some by robberies. Deadwood was in a state of wild chaos. - -Preacher Smith, or Henry Weston Smith “drifted in” about this time. He -had come from the East with the Custer gold rush and had migrated north -to Deadwood, on foot, at the time of the discovery and boom there. He -preached in the street mostly. He was a Methodist, about forty years of -age, and of fine physique, quiet and unassuming. - - [Illustration: Deadwood Dick - Bell Photo] - - [Illustration: The Roosevelt Monument near Deadwood] - -On August 20, 1876, Smith started for Crook City to preach a sermon. He -left a note that he would be back at 3:00 P. M. if God were willing. But -God had planned otherwise. The Indians killed him on the way. His body -was discovered soon afterward and was brought to Deadwood. His remains -now rest in Mt. Moriah Cemetery above Deadwood, while his monument -stands near where he was killed. - -Wild Bill came to Deadwood in June, 1876. He was not, as his name might -indicate, a desperado, but rather a refined enforcer of law and order. -His full name was James Butler Hicock. He had married a widow whose -husband had been shot while attempting to prevent some desperadoes from -forcing an entrance to his wagon show. Wild Bill travelled with the show -to protect it and finally married the widow. With the gold rush he was -drawn to Deadwood. His wife remained in Cheyenne. - -Wild Bill earned his name by his expert pistol shooting. Before coming -to the Black Hills he had been employed as a government scout, as a -hunter of horse thieves, and as a gunman law enforcer. He had been hired -by Abilene, Kansas, at $1,000 a month to clean up the town, and later by -Ft. Hayes for the same purpose. His speed on the draw saved his life -many times. - - [Illustration: An Enjoyable drive along a Black Hills Creek] - -The law respecting faction in Deadwood finally decided to organize some -form of local government. They did so and Wild Bill was suggested for -chief of police. The rougher lawless element notified him that he would -be shot if he did not leave town. His friends tried to get him to leave, -but he was determined to stay. A notorious outlaw stole quietly through -the side door of a saloon where Bill was playing cards, drew his gun, -and shot Bill through the back of the head, killing him instantly. The -assassin was tried by his friends, acquitted, and permitted to leave the -state. He was soon re-arrested, convicted, and hanged. - - [Illustration: Wedge Rock] - -Wild Bill is Deadwood’s idol. On his gun at the time of his death there -were thirty-six notches all alleged to have been in self defences and -law enforcement. His remains, too, are interred in Mt. Moriah Cemetery. -A Johnny Riordian chiseled statues of Preacher Smith and Wild Bill both -of which now stand at the head of their respective graves. - -Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary) was a woman whose life was -interwoven with the early history of the Black Hills. She was an army -scout with General Crook, and later a desperate and notorious character -as well as an idol of the region. Her life story is not that of a -self-respecting woman, and yet her ideals in her attitude toward her -fellow beings were very high. She was always ready to share her money -and provisions with those who needed it. She fought Indians and -desperadoes as unflinchingly as any man. Her aim saved many a man’s -life, especially from the Indians. Once she had to hold up a store to -obtain groceries for a family who were very ill and out of money. After -the family were nursed back to health Jane went on her way. - -Calamity Jane had a deep reverence and respect for Wild Bill. Her dying -request was that she be buried beside him, and there, today, her grave -is to be found. Her funeral was the largest Deadwood has ever seen. - -Not only Deadwood but thousands of visitors climb this hill to visit the -shrine of these three early idols. - -Now we proceed up the hill to the cemetery. A good driver might pilot -his car up and down later with comparative safety, but the hill is very -steep, and ascent by foot might be more advisable. - -The cemetery proper is located on the slope of a mountain, high up, -overlooking the city of Deadwood. From the cemetery a path takes us -higher and higher, to the very peak of the mountain, one mile and six -feet high. The peak is of bare white rocks, and is so named, “White -Rocks.” It is over 700 feet higher than the city. The view from here is -remarkable. Hills, valleys, mountains, and cities are visible from the -peak on clear days. Here is a worth while mountain climb, possible for -everyone. - -After descending from the cemetery we cross Deadwood Gulch right on main -street beside the Franklin hotel. We take a steep street on the opposite -(north) side, and follow a winding road up Mt. Roosevelt. The road is -steep and precipitous, winding and none too wide, though cars can pass -almost any place with a matter of inches to spare. The lower part of the -road is good, up to the foot-path. But from there up, if one wishes to -go by car the driver requires some skill, a good horn, and well adjusted -brakes. With a little patience, and a few hazardous looks down the steep -mountain sides we reach the summit. If the foot path is taken the trip -is shorter and less hazardous. These mountain paths are excellent for -exercise, believe it if you can, or try it. - -The view from Mt. Roosevelt is probably as good or better than from any -other elevation in the Black Hills. With field glasses on a clear day -one may see four states from here. On the topmost peak of the mountain -stands a monument, the first ever erected in honor of Theodore -Roosevelt. It is, we are told, erected in the environment and among the -scenes that Roosevelt loved. Visitors are requested to leave their -autographs in a visitor’s book within the tower. One precaution, do not -pick a cold cloudy day to visit Mt. Roosevelt. - -After the return to Deadwood we must by all means spend some time in -this metropolis of the interior of the “Hills.” The gold rush days are -not much in evidence. Deadwood is a modern city and a thriving business -center. The stores, curio shops, and souvenir sellers invite our -curiosity, and are likely to hold us for sometime. The remains of mines, -the slag heaps from smelting days, and the open mine shafts are indeed -curiosities. While in Deadwood we must not forget the fine municipal -bathing pool and park. - -Here again we might take the Boulder Canyon road or leave it as an -unseen point of interest. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - Pactola, Silver City and Camp Wanzer - - -The bed is a welcome place after the mountain climbing. Somehow the -meals and rest afterward add to the satisfaction of these invigorating -and inspirational tramps. - -After three enjoyable nights at Pine Crest we leave for the central part -of the Hills. We take S. D. 85 to the left, just before entering -Deadwood. The road is an excellent, improved highway, bordered by -interesting scenery. - - [Illustration: Lights and Shadows Among the Pines - Canedy Photo] - -We start the trip with an upward climb of six and a half miles. This has -a tendency somehow to warm up the motor a bit. Now we follow a mountain -top trail. The scenery is beautiful as we skim along over good roads -with gentle grades. In places the trees are thick, in other places thin. -There are pines, cottonwood, aspen, spruce, and others. In places forest -fires have left a devastated appearance. These sights leave with one a -feeling of sadness, that carelessness and destruction must claim these -great potentialities of usefulness and beauty. They leave with us a -deeper resolve to “Put out campfires before leaving them.” - -It is thirty-one miles to Pactola on Rapid Creek. Just after we cross -the creek and before crossing the railroad we turn to the right, -following the creek, and drive up to Silver City. As near as we can find -out they do not mine silver here. The place is a group of log cabins and -is used for a summer resort. It is a beautiful little place. - - [Illustration: A Log Cabin - Canedy Photo] - -Going up the creek we take a winding road, almost a path. Along this -road are many church and other camps. We come to Camp Wanzer a few miles -beyond Silver City in Bear Canyon. - -Camp Wanzer is not a tuberculosis camp. It is a camp for building up -physically run-down children. No one with tuberculosis or other -communicable disease is admitted. The plan is to have the children live -out here away from vices and irregularities of city life, where proper -hours, food, exercise and supervision may build up their run-down -bodies. The records show remarkable results. Children are required to -rise at a certain time, observe exercise periods, rest periods, to eat -wholesome meals at regular times and to sleep enough each night. They -have a nice swimming hole, too. The children enjoy the vacation. They -are kept for three to six weeks, and in practically every case leave -there stronger and happier than when they came. A person is highly -impressed with what this camp means to these children. There were -fifty-five there in 1928. Children come from all parts of the state. -Parents pay for it where they can and the Christmas seals sale pays for -the rest. After seeing where our Christmas seal proceeds go we are ever -so much more willing and even anxious to contribute to the fund. - -We again follow a beautiful mountain stream, Spring Creek, through -Sheridan and down to Hill City. Along the road we find some real rock -cliffs running up several hundred feet and we can here see the plan of -the rock layers, thrown in, tilted on edge, the formation which is -general throughout the Black Hills. At Sheridan there is a good looking -tourist camp, including cabins. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - Hill City and Keystone - - -We put up for the night in one of the Hill City cabins. These are not in -some ways as nice as some of the others, but are very comfortable -nevertheless. We must try the cabins by all means while in the Hills. -Most of them cost a dollar a night. In them, generally are a bed or two, -a cook stove, table and cooking utensils, with possibly other -conveniences including stove wood. - -Hill City is in the heart of the Black Hills. It has excellent -connections with various cities, fishing grounds and places of scenic -interest. Sylvan Lake is nine miles distant, Rapid City 20, Deadwood 40, -Custer 15 and the Game Lodge 27. Hill City is only a small place, but it -is an “up and coming” progressive little town. They believe in -advertising, and a few of its citizens are rather farsighted in their -attitude toward visitors. The tourist park is not like some of the rest, -but it affords shelter and many conveniences. In a few years it will be -coming to the front. - -We have not been in Hill City long before the “filling station -information bureau” tell us that no trip to the Hills is complete -without a visit to the Keystone mines and Rushmore Mountain. So, for -them we start. Keystone is about ten miles from Hill City. We leave town -at the north end, over the railroad tracks, headed due east. The road is -very, very winding. It follows the valley of Battle Creek, going up and -down over small hills, tributary springs and streams, and around rocks. -It crosses the railroad no less than sixteen times in the ten miles, two -times under the track. - -Covering the entire road and surface of the hills is a layer of powdered -mica. One must pinch himself to see if he is actually living and awake -and not riding along over the streets of gold in the hereafter. Maybe -some of us had better take a good look, for our streets in the next life -may be of coal dust or cinders. - - [Illustration: White Tail Buck] - -We stop along the road to collect a few specimens of the rocks of this -vicinity. We hope that we may pick up some rose colored quartz, the rock -that is most popular for decorative purposes in the “Hills.” Here an -unexpected pleasure awaits us. A young fawn is standing across the -ravine watching us innocently. When we discover it we cannot help -turning to stare, rapt in wonder. Soon a doe, then another, and behind -them two bucks and more emerge from a thicket. One of the bucks raises -his front foot and points his muzzle toward us. The whole herd turn and -bound gracefully out of sight. It is a scene that will long remain in -our memories. - -Trout fishing is good in Battle Creek and Slate Creek on the other side -of Hill City. - -Just before reaching Keystone we turn up a side road to the right. We -come to two very impressive log houses. These, we decide, are just the -type we would like to build for ourselves. We drive in and ask the man -in the yard what a house like that would cost. Imagine our chagrin when -he tells us the houses belong to the millionaire owner of the Etta -Lithia Mine, one of the larger mines of the Hills. The large house is -the house in which the owner lives for two weeks each summer. - -It cost $6,000, we are told. On the inside we find all sorts of fishing -and other sporting equipment. There is a beautiful hardwood floor in the -house, running spring water, soft rain water from a cistern, a fireplace -in each room, rustic furniture with bark still on, and even twin beds. - -The other cabin is only slightly less in finish and equipment, it being -the residence of the manager of the mine. The owner lives in New Jersey. -The sight of these is highly inspirational to those who appreciate this -sort of life. - -Upon invitation of the manager we go up into the hills to the mine. The -road is well improved; it must be to carry the great truck loads of ore -in all kinds of weather. After a little driving we round a bend in the -road and gaze upon a great ridge of white quartz, probably nearly a -hundred feet high. As one gazes at it he ponders upon the enormous -potential wealth of this heap, if it could be put to use. Rumor tells us -that a glass factory for the Black Hills is not out of reason and will -probably soon be a reality. - -At present this quartz is an undesirable stuff which must be separated -from the mineral and piled into great scrap heaps. We climb the slope to -the top of the ridge where a tunnel leads to the open cut spodumene -mine. - -But before going to the top we might look into the opening of the old -underground mine. - -A narrow gauge railroad runs into the tunnel. A warning is posted -against the entrance. A gaze into the tunnel however, makes one think -the walls are lined with gold. But on closer examination the gold turns -out to be mica in very fine flakes. - -On the top of the quartz pile, just outside the top tunnel or the one -from the open cut another narrow gauge railroad takes the quartz to the -end of the dump pile in small ore cars. Following the short tunnel -through a hill we come to the mine proper. It is just a huge hole in the -ground, not now worked, from which the ore was taken with dynamite, -picks, shovels and derricks. The useful ore, valued at about fifty -dollars a ton, stands in the layers of quartz and granite at a tipsy -angle, like huge tree trunks of pure white. The sight is really worth -seeing. Spodumene is a substance resembling grained rock embedded in -quartz and mica but soft enough to be crushed in the hand. It is raised -from the cut, emptied into cars and carried through the tunnel where it -is dumped into a long chute. When the chute gets filled up, trucks back -under the gate at the lower end, fill up with the mineral and take it to -the railroad cars at Keystone. From here it is shipped east, where -lithium oxide is made of it for storage batteries. - -Going from the Etta Mine up, over the next rise, we come to the Juga -Feldspar Mine. This, too, is an open cut mine in the top of a mountain. - -The feldspar, used for enamel in lining bathtubs and making dishes, is -found, mined, loaded and shipped much as is the lithia. Valuable -by-products of the mine, mica, tourmaline and lepidolite and others are -found in small quantities. - -Back through the valley we go and up the opposite slope to a mica mine. -This, too, is an open cut, the men working in the shade of a large -tarpaulin awning. Slabs of mica varying from small scraps to large -sheets are all loaded in the chute, hauled to Keystone and shipped east. - - [Illustration: Rushmore Mountain, near Keystone. Upon the abrupt face - of this mountain Borglum, the sculptor, is carving the Statues of - Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt - Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.] - -We go down from the mines and take a winding road up to Rushmore -Mountain. On the way we try fishing. Here one of the most exasperating -experiences of the trip takes place. I peered into the clear stream and -spied a beautiful speckled beauty of somewhat larger than average -proportion. Carefully I sent a fly up to him, but he was not interested. -I tried every fly I had with the same result. Then I sent him a nice, -fresh, green grasshopper, then a yellow one. Mr. Trout never batted an -eye. I then offered him a frog leg. He only wagged his tail as though -amused. The last resort was a nice juicy worm. I trailed it down the -stream until it bumped him on the nose. That dumb trout was too lazy to -even open his mouth. Possibly I misjudge him. He may have just had -lunch, but at any rate he should have shown some interest in an extra -bite. Well, I decided that if he was going to have his laugh on me, I’d -get even with him. - -I took my fishing rod and gave him a real poke in the ribs. I had the -satisfaction of seeing him wake up rather hurriedly and disappear -upstream. - -On the way up to Rushmore we see a large leaning rock with a tree -growing out of the top of it. This is only one of the phenomena of the -“Hills” that fires the curiosity of the visitor. - -The road up to Rushmore is on a mountain facing the one being carved. It -is steep and winding. Cars go up several miles, but it is quite a climb. -At the top is a long cable over which supplies are transported to the -top of Rushmore. The carving is just begun. It has been discontinued for -lack of funds, much to the regret of the people of the “Hills” and of -South Dakota. If the work is finished it will be a monument of no mean -calibre and a shrine for tourists. We did not take the footpath to the -top, though such can be done. By climbing the steep precipitous crags -facing it one gets a remarkable view of the grand and majestic bald -peak. - -From Rushmore we go on to Keystone. On the road we see abandoned gold -mines and some still running. Within the town we come to the Keystone -Consolidated Mines. At present they operate three gold mines with the -main mill, the Columbia, the Keystone and the Holy Terror. Two stories -are told of the naming of the last. One is that its inaccessibility -clear up in the mountain top is responsible. The other is that the -discoverer’s wife insisted that he name the mine after her. The miner -went to take out his claim and when he returned he answered, to his -wife’s insistent queries, “yes, he had named the mine after her,” and he -showed her the papers. - -Going on through Keystone we stop at a miner’s house, and he shows us -many kinds of ore including tin, tourmaline, spodumene, copper, topaz, -several kinds of quartz, gold, ruby studded rocks and so on. We cross -the creek then and pick up our own specimens of rubies. - -Now we go back to Hill City and from there up a long gradual incline -into the most noted scenic spot of the Black Hills. - - [Illustration: Rugged Formations] - - - - - CHAPTER XV - Needles Road, Sylvan Lake, Harney and the Gorge - - -The road winds through the needle rocks, amid beautifully vegetated -valleys and mountains to Sylvan Lake. - - [Illustration: Cathedral Spires. Granite peaks in the Black Hills - Lease Photo] - -These roads are the much talked of feats of engineering skill. We can -easily see why they are so considered. No barrier, no matter how -formidable has proved indominable. In some places the road is merely a -shelf on the side of a mountain. The rock is blasted out and the nice -wide road, the perfect replica of our modern prairie highways, surfaced, -is superimposed upon it. Slopes are gradual, the road wide enough for -safety anywhere, and every other means of convenience to motorists has -been considered. In one place there are possibly a half dozen -switchbacks making it possible for a person to ascend a high mountain by -gradual ascent on the shelf-like road, switchback and ascend more, -almost straight above the road over which he has just come. You can look -over the brink of the chasm and see several laps of the road up which -you have come, and can look above and see the shelves built up there, -over which you are to go before you reach the top. Marvelous, indeed, -are the means that man through the divine guidance of a higher Being, we -are forced to believe, has devised for overcoming the seemingly -impossible problems. And the view from the road is marvelous. The great -majestic stone mountains, the broad, deep, beautiful valleys, the swift -tumbling mountains streams, fed by mountain springs, the so-called -Needles, and last the sense of conquering all these, affords a feeling -almost beyond description to the soul of the traveler. - - [Illustration: The “Needles Highway” in Custer State Park] - - [Illustration: The Switchback on the Needles Road - A highway among the Needles of the Black Hills - Rise Photo] - - [Illustration: Stop on Needles Highway] - - [Illustration: Through Iron Creek Tunnel] - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake, as you round the turn] - - [Illustration: A Horseshoe Turn, Needles Road - Lease] - -We drive down through heavily wooded roads to the lake, the most widely -advertised place in the Black Hills. Sylvan Lake is about a half mile in -length, located right in the top of the mountains. It owes its size to -the fact that its north end is made up of a dam filling the gorge -through which the water tumbled in its course from its mountain streams, -through Sunday Gulch to Spring Creek. - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake, and the Cliffs] - -The lake is a beautiful one, bounded by tall, cold, gray stones, -majestically reaching for the sky, and fringed with luxuriant forest -trees. On one side of the lake is the Sylvan Lake Hotel and on the other -side is the camp grounds. The Indians have named the lake “Karanip” or -“Tear of the Mountain.” We go directly to the camp grounds and get -settled for the night. The camp is not overequipped with conveniences, -but is nevertheless a good camp, with a little store conveniently close. - - [Illustration: The Swans] - -We go to bed early so that we may get up early for the ascent of Harney -Peak. Even with the early retiring three A. M. comes rather soon. But we -are all life as soon as we awaken and we lose no time. Well shod we -begin the ascent. This is to be an event. The climb covers three miles -and a half. You’ll be ready to agree with me after making it, though -these Black Hills people are very generous in the size of their miles. -We start up the road marked “Harney Peak.” We could take our car part -way, but the short distance and rough road makes this a poor policy. - -We soon come to the stables where burros and ponies can be hired by -those not wishing to make the trip on foot. These are not for the early -or the ambitious. We pass them by. - - [Illustration: Reflection at Sylvan Lake - Stevens] - -The path soon begins to ascend. Progress becomes slower. The perfect -road narrows into a footpath cut through the timber. - - [Illustration: Cathedral Spires, from Harney Peak - Rise Photo] - - [Illustration: Harney Peak, Lookout Station, and Peak Inn - Canedy Photo] - -Up, up we go. At places the timber clears, giving us a grand view of the -surrounding country. Then we plunge into the forest again and continue -up, up, up. At the end of a mile or so we top a ridge and are relieved -to begin descending into a shallow valley. This is a rest and -encouraging. At the bottom of the valley is a brooklet of clear spring -water. Here we take a drink before continuing our ascent. - - [Illustration: Peak Inn - Beard Photo] - -Now we begin a real climb. The path is easy and open and the slope is -gradual. But even at that it begins to tax one’s muscles. Squirrels and -chipmunks dart across the path and gaze at the intruders from a safe -perch in the trees. And some of these trees are giants, probably the -largest found in the Hills. Springs arise here and there along the way. -Beautiful flowers dot the path. Great gray rocks jut into the air at -intervals. The path is indeed interesting. The coolness of the forest -adds to its entrancing powers. - - [Illustration: Another View of Harney Peak Look-out Station - Photo by Beard] - -By and by the path grows steeper and we begin to take a switchback -course up, up, up. Finally the vegetation thins out and the surface is -mostly rock. We climb the rocks and at last emerge at the foot of a -ladder leading up the crags where the fire lookout house is located. Up -the ladder we go, and over the rocks toward the top. We catch a glimpse -of the ranger giving us a dirty look as he hurriedly finishes his -breakfast and makes up his bed. We give him plenty of time, while we -gaze in four directions at the remarkable panorama extending a hundred -miles before us. The sun, which we had expected to see rising, is -smiling indulgently at us from far up in the sky. To the west we see -Sylvan Hotel, mountains and forests. Turning toward the south we find -ourselves looking at the historical Custer and on past into Wyoming. -Far, far, to the south is the border of the hills. Closer are the -Needles and Cathedral Spires and Mt. Coolidge. On to the east, fifty -miles away and more, are the Badlands. Closer Mt. Rushmore sticks up its -head as do various other bald heads. Away off to the northeast Bear -Butte stands alone and to his left are Roosevelt Peak, Terry Peak and -many of our other friends. - - [Illustration: The Cliffs, Below Harney Peak, Sylvan Lake, S.D.] - - [Illustration: One way of climbing Harney] - -The view is nothing short of wonderful on a clear day, but is not as -good when the clouds float below us or when the air is filled with mist. -We go on up to the lookout station and register. Of course, we must ask -the ranger our share of foolish questions. We would not be human if we -did not display our ignorance up here. We just naturally feel that we -must ask some kind of a question to commemorate the fact that we are up -here. - -We are now on the highest point in the Black Hills. Not only this, it is -the highest point in the state and greater still, the highest point in -the United States east of the Rocky Mountains. We are 7,244 feet above -sea level and about a thousand feet above Sylvan Lake. This little house -away up on the top of a rock looks pretty frail beside the boulders upon -which it stands. One would think that a breeze would blow it over the -precipice hundreds of feet straight down. The house, though, is pretty -well established, with heavy steel cables firmly rooting it to its -place. Even at that, they’d better not hire a forest ranger up there who -walks in his sleep. - - [Illustration: Airplane View of Harney Peak - Rise Photo] - - [Illustration: Looking Down the Gorge below Sylvan Lake] - - [Illustration: Farther down the Gorge] - -We are given a card telling us that in the “Harney National Forest -20,000,000 board feet of lumber is harvested annually and through -reforestation about 1,587,667,000 board feet are maintained permanently. -12,000 horses and cattle and 4,000 sheep graze on the forest annually. -The area (net) is 508,000,057 acres. The annual revenue to the United -States is $80,000 and to local counties $20,000. Summer sites may be -secured from the Supervisor at Custer, S. D.” - -The lookout away up here is for the purpose of spotting forest fires. - -In the little house are instruments for seeing and exactly locating -fires. By getting the exact angle of fires from two different stations -and telephoning the results its location may be determined exactly by -drawing a line at these angles from their respective stations. The fire -would be where the lines crossed. - - [Illustration: Guardian of the Pools, Sylvan Lake, S.D.] - - [Illustration: A Canyon in the Black Hills - Lease] - - [Illustration: Reception Room, Sylvan Lake - O’Neill Photo] - -Well, we are the first up there this morning and now we prepare to -descend. We start down the rocks and meet several people coming up, -they, too, thinking they had been first up this morning. We must take a -few pictures before going down to convince the folks at home that we’ve -climbed Harney. - - [Illustration: Dining Room, Sylvan Lake Hotel, Custer, S.D. - Lease] - - [Illustration: Sylvan Lake in the Winter] - -Down we go, down the ladder and around the corner to Peak Inn. Here -refreshments and souvenirs may be procured. These have all been brought -up the mountain by burroes at some little expense. An interesting trip, -they tell us, is to make the return trip through Cathedral Spires. We, -however, do not do this. - -The descent can be made in a little less time than the ascent. Some -short cuts can be made directly across where contours and cutbacks had -to be made going up. Going down is decidedly easier than going up. All -the way down we meet puffing folks; some fat, some tall, some carrying -babies, all asking the same question, “How much farther?” Many a good -natured joke is exchanged on the way. We meet troopers as well as -pedestrians. The former seem about as anxious to reach the top as those -walking. Perhaps those experienced in riding burros and trail ponies -understand the reason for this. - - [Illustration: You Tell ’em we are Traveling. - Tobogganing. Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake, S.D. - Lease] - - [Illustration: Looking Down the Toboggan Slide - Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake S.D. - Lease] - -Seven miles, at least, the round trip is quite a hike, but for those who -can stand it (and this includes most of us), it is by far the better -method of going up. Each one who makes it feels proud of the -accomplishment. One boy about seven years of age remarked, “By Gawsh, I -didn’t need to make it on any donkey. My own feet are good enough for -me.” Well, we finally come to the stables again. We have met possibly -fifty people going up and more are just starting. Some burros are all -saddled and bridled, sleepily waiting for the start. Temptation prompts -us to mount for a picture, even though our friends do insist on asking, -“Now which is which?” - -[Illustration: The Needles Highway. This is indeed a feat of engineering] - -We arrive back in camp about five hours after we had started up. -Pancakes, bacon and eggs are awaiting us. The question “are we hungry?” -is a mild way of putting it. Food seems to disappear like magic, not -just a little but great quantities of it. This little stroll seems to -make one ravenously hungry and we derive genuine satisfaction from this -meal. Somehow our fatigue seems to be appeased with our hunger. - - [Illustration: “The Switchback” along the “Needles Highway” in Custer - State Park] - -Now we are ready for an inspection of the lake and its surroundings. The -swans are the first things that draw our attention. They are beautiful, -floating over the silvery surface. - -Many are the fishermen trying for croppies and trout from the edge of -the lake. Some have substantial strings of fish, too. - - [Illustration: Custer State Park Highway - A typical scene along the Needles Highway] - -We take our leisurely way around the lake and find dozens of cars before -the hotel. We join the group who are inspecting the souvenir shop and -the hotel lobby. Both are interesting; both containing many curios from -the hills. The hotel is especially interesting, and we must by all means -take a meal with its charming host and hostess. We now go back through a -slit in a rock to the gorge behind the dam. The first thing we see and -hear is the water gurgling out of Gorge Springs and over the dam. From -here we pick our way over the great boulders to the precipice where the -water tumbles into the narrow gorge. What boy or girl or grownup is not -thrilled by the descent, sometimes on foot, sometimes dangling sometimes -crawling between huge rocks (the largest in the hills) sometimes leaping -chasms, through dark holes around seemingly blind bends, finally -emerging on the rocks far below, without having fallen off the rocks or -getting our feet wet. Oh boy! it’s certainly great. We are now in the -home of the elves. We can follow the stream down, down, until our view -opens out far to the north. - -We pick our way back and take a new route far up through the crags, -towering above Sylvan Lake. Here again we get a marvelous view of the -surrounding territory. Reluctantly we descend again, only to climb the -crags on the opposite side of the gorge. Down again, we find our muscles -getting a trifle fatigued. - - [Illustration: A Needles Scene - Canedy Photo] - -We go back to camp near evening, having eaten lunch in the gorge. Now we -get our dinner. Needless to say we are ready for it. We have packed -several days’ experiences into a day. And it has been a memorable day. -We spend the night and then start over that world’s renowned Needles -Highway. The entrance is made through a gigantic gateway of towering -rocks. A huge tunnel is blasted through one rock. - -We must drive back to the wide ledge and park our car while we gaze over -the edge of the precipice and past the great valleys to the high -mountains of stone Needles in all directions. The view is indeed one to -remember. The feeling of the grandeur of nature that this leaves with us -is something that lives with us forever. - -We pass on over this remarkable road cut through the mountain tops. The -Needles Highway is all it is reputed to be. But one must take it slowly -and stop to admire it to fully appreciate it. - - [Illustration: A Pleasant Drive] - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - Custer - - -We go off to the left a few miles to the State Game Lodge. This is the -famous Summer White House of President Coolidge. Before we reach it we -see a fine group of elk along the road and another of deer. The latter -bound gracefully into a thicket when we stop to watch them. Along this -road are several tourist camps. Galena and the Game Lodge are the larger -ones. - - [Illustration: The Switchback on the Needles Road - Rise Photo] - - [Illustration: One of the Tunnels] - -We will leave the game lodge and zoo, however, and take them in our -return from Hot Springs. Accordingly we take trail 36 back to Custer, -about twenty miles. A few miles before we come to Custer we find a tall -stone shaft rising beside the road. A bronze plate attached to it tells -us that this is a monument erected to the memory of Mrs. Anna D. -Tallent, the first white woman in the Hills. To the right, down a lane a -few rods is a reconstructed replica of the old Gordon Stockade. The -saplings are driven into the ground, spiked on top, just as the old fort -had been. Within the inclosure are a couple of buildings, one where the -Tallents lived and one where other folks of the party had lived. French -Creek flows just south of the stockade. - -Just when gold was discovered in the Hills is a question. Probably it -was before 1850, or shortly thereafter. One tale runs that a party of -sixteen left the California Trail at Fort Laramie in 1852 because -friendly Indians reported gold in the Black Hills. - - [Illustration: Restoration of the old Gordon Stockade built to protect - the people from the Indians] - - [Illustration: Deer in the Forest Reserve in South Dakota] - - [Illustration: Buffalo] - -The men journeyed north, trying several places to mine for gold. They -got small quantities until they finally ended up near Deadwood. There -the quantity became greater, and the men were elated. Three of the men -started back to tell the people at Salt Lake City of their good fortune. -The remainder kept on prospecting. One day one of those remaining went -out to shoot a deer for meat. Upon his return the camp was in flames and -the scalps of his comrades dangled at the ends of poles carried by the -Indians. The man made sure that none of the party remained but himself, -and he started out for the trail to the south. After terrible hardships, -out of matches, with no ammunition left, living off berries and roots, -he arrived at the trail too late for the last train of the season. His -boots were soleless and his clothing in tatters. He hobbled on, and -finally came almost at death’s door to a Mormon hunting party. They -brought him slowly back to life and strength and he told them his story. - - [Illustration: Record of early gold seekers in Black Hills, - 1833-34—forty years before Custer’s expedition to the Hills. Stone - found near Spearfish in 1887 and now in possession of State Historical - Society, Pierre, South Dakota] - -The story of Ezra Kind is probably true. His Sandstone Carved with a -jack-knife was found hidden among some rocks on Lookout Mountain. Indian -traditions bear out the story. Much gold was taken by the Indians when -the men were killed. - -The Gordon Stockade party, however, was the party that started the rush -to the Hills. One of General Custer’s mining engineers Horatio N. Ross -found gold along French Creek near the present city of Custer, on July -27, 1874. William T. McKay shares honors with Ross. As soon as Custer’s -report came out the government issued orders that no white people would -be permitted to enter the Black Hills until a treaty could be made with -the Indians, for this was guaranteed a hunting ground for them when the -eastern land was wrested from them. - - [Illustration: The first cabin built in the Black Hills - Now standing in Custer, S.D.] - -The Gordon party like many others decided to try to break through the -troops and start mining gold. The party consisted of twenty-six men, one -woman, and her son. They left Sioux City in October of 1874. They -suffered many hardships in the trip, crossing the Badlands, swimming the -Cheyenne River, and overcoming innumerable difficulties. They kept ever -on, confident that they would all become millionaires as a result of the -expedition. They met Indians to whom they had to give much of their -food. They finally struck the Hills near Sturgis and from there took -General Custer’s trail south to Custer City. They arrived on French -Creek December 23, built the stockade, and began panning for gold. They -found paying quantities. In the meantime the government troops were -trying in vain to follow the complicated trail that the party had -purposely planned to lead them astray. A blizzard set in, finally, -obliterating the trail. The party got together enough gold and on -February 6, 1875 Gordon and one of the other men started for Sioux City -with it on horseback. Sioux City went wild upon the arrival of the men -with the bag of gold tied on a saddle horn. They immediately sent -another expedition to the Hills. This party, however, was taken by -government troops and their property was confiscated. - - [Illustration: Museum, Custer - O’Neill Photo] - -The Indians reported to the military authorities the presence of the -white people in the Hills, and on April 4, 1875, the troops found the -settlers, and gave them 24 hours to get ready to leave as prisoners for -Fort Laramie, Wyoming. - -Three times parts of the expedition tried to escape and go back to the -stockade, but each time they were rearrested and brought back. The third -time, however, they escaped while being brought back and succeeded in -reaching the stockade. Mrs. Tallent, herself, finally, the next year -succeeded in returning to Custer, later going to Deadwood and Rapid -City. There she became County Superintendent of Schools. - -Miners found their way into Custer from all directions in 1875 in spite -of the government troops. Mining in the Black Hills had come to stay. - -Thus runs the story of the Gordon Stockade and Tallent monument, and -their significance in the early life in the Hills. Their principals -started Black Hills History. - - [Illustration: The expedition camped in a valley - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -We proceed to the municipal camp upon the hill past the town, and there -pitch our tent. A storm is brewing. We hurry along, getting dinner over -early. Then we go into the fine community building to get acquainted. -There we meet a young man who has just graduated from the School of -Mines and has accepted a position in the deserts of California where he -is to develop certain mineral deposits owned by a large corporation of -Oakland. - - [Illustration: Placer Mining—Deadwood Gulch - Mining gold in the Black Hills in 1876] - - [Illustration: A Custer street in the Early Days] - -This young man shows us a case containing 205 minerals. They include -practically all of the world’s minerals except some of the valuable ones -such as diamonds and radium. He proceeds to tell us the story of the -formation of the Hills. He tells us that in eons past there was a -terrific granite upheaval. The layers were higher than they now are. -Gradually they eroded and mineral bearing ores washed down between the -crevices of granite. This left the great sloping layers of granite and -minerals that we now find. - - [Illustration: A Typical Log Cabin] - -After an interesting evening we retire, just before the storm breaks. It -rains, while we sleep on. - -The next morning having heard that log summer cabins could be built upon -land leased from the government, we proceeded to the offices of the -Harney National Forest Service Supervisor to learn the details. He tells -us that the United States has surveyed sites along several streams, and -South Dakota has done the same in the State Park. These sites are in the -more desirable parts of the Hills, readily accessible from main roads. -The government surveys the land and stakes out a group of plots in a -line. These are leased to those desiring summer home sites at ten -dollars a year, or fifteen if the site is to be sublet. The forest -service marks certain trees which may be cut and used for making log -cabins. These trees, used for building are sold to the lessee at 2½ to 3 -cents per lineal foot, depending upon the size. Thus a cabin amounts to -a comparatively few dollars, and the annual fee is but few more. - - [Illustration: General Custer’s camp in 1874 - Photo by Illinworth, official photographer on the expedition - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -The supervisor shows us maps which are made of the sites surveyed. -Several fine sites are available on Rapid Creek, Spring Creek, French -Creek, Battle Creek, Sunday Gulch, Sunday Creek, Chinaman’s Gulch, St. -Elmo, and Balser Gulch. They are close to Custer, Hill City, Rapid City, -the Game Lodge, and Sylvan Lake. Other sites, he informs us, are -available at Spearfish through the Black Hills National Forest Service’s -office. - - [Illustration: Custer Enroute - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -Cabins have been built on many such sites. They are made of logs -interlocked at the corners and chinked with oakum or filled with -concrete, reinforced with barbed wire. One cannot help “falling for” -them with their rustic construction, beautiful stone fireplaces, and -attractive sites. We cannot help determining to come back to build a -cabin for summer and for hunting season. Rustic furniture may be built -for equipment and other features to suit the fancy of the occupant. - - [Illustration: The Expedition in Formation - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -We leave the office filled with inspiration and wend our way toward the -old museum cabin. On the way we pass a cabin built of Black Hills stone -mounted in concrete with a beautiful fireplace of rose quartz, crystals, -petrified wood, petrified moss, mica and tourmaline extending clear to -the ceiling. The effect is really one of splendor. Within the house are -souvenirs of all kinds made of Black Hills stones, set in concrete. The -place is one that should not be passed up. The Rose Quartz Soda Fountain -is another rare sight. The whole town is filled with these beautiful -mounted stones, even to the bridge lamp posts. - -We reach the little cabin for which we have started and see the date -1875 on its gable. - -Outside the door is a sluice box or pan used in the early days to pan -gold. This is quite a curio. The gold, after going through a screen made -of copper filled with nail holes, was supposed to stick on the sloping -canvas bottom and let the water on through. - - [Illustration: Camp on French Creek - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -Within the house is a great collection of early weapons, seats, -pictures, an old wooden tombstone, saddles, implements, an ox yoke, -rocks, horns, stuffed birds and beasts of that region and on the wall -newspaper clippings of the early days. These relics are worth much time -and thought. The newspaper clippings are colorful accounts of early -shootings, hangings, holdups and gold discoveries. Interesting? Say, -just start on them and try to tear yourself away. - - [Illustration: A camp scene - Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society] - -One placard reads in part as follows: “This cabin, the oldest in the -Black Hills, was built by the U. S. troops under General Crook in 1875. -Visitors to the Black Hills were not welcomed here in those days. The -Indians, who then owned the land, did their best to discourage them from -coming and removed the scalps of such of them as fell into their hands -to mark their disapproval of their presence here. The U. S. Army, when -they caught any gold seekers attempting to enter the Hills, burned their -wagons and outfits and escorted them to Fort Laramie as prisoners. - -[Illustration: What the Black Hills looked like to Custer’s Expedition] - -“In spite of all efforts to keep miners from entering the Hills, many, -in less than a year from the time that the discovery of gold on French -Creek had been made by General Custer’s expedition, had reached Custer -city and were busy prospecting the country in all directions. - -“Then came General Crook with troops and ordered all the miners who were -in the Hills to vacate the country by August 10, 1875. While the troops -were here they built this cabin, etc., etc., etc.” - -We leave the cabin and saunter over to the gold discovery monument just -west of it. This is a beautiful thing of Black Hills rocks and cement, -with a bronze plate upon it denoting its significance. - - [Illustration: Community Cabin, Custer] - -North of Main Street is the huge log community house, probably the -largest in the Black Hills. It is a gigantic thing and very impressive. -We strike camp at noon and leave town by the west road. We are taking 85 -to Minnekahta and U. S. 18 from there on to Edgemont. Possibly this is -an ill-advised trip, but we make it nevertheless, hoping to see the -petrified forest. In this we are not altogether successful. - -We pass the state tuberculosis sanitarium composed of many pure white -buildings. The place is very impressive, but we do not stop. - - [Illustration: Sawdust Pile, Custer] - - [Illustration: Petrified Log, Edgemont] - -Our next point of interest is the large sawmill beside the road. The -huge blower and sawdust pile seen in the picture give us some idea of -its size. The main rip saws are in gangs of three cutting boards one and -two inches in thickness. Cross cut blades cut boards into the longest -possible sizes. The bark and refuse slabs are fed into the fire to make -steam to run the plant. We do not see any fine work or finishing here. - -We pass on through Pringle. A short distance from here we find some -interesting specimens which look like petrified acorns or small nuts -embedded in limestone. But the next is the most peculiar specimen of -all. As we cross the railroad well on the way from Pringle to -Minnekahta, there stands, west of the track, in a pasture, a peculiar -beast. It is made up of a log, with four prongs (branches) resembling -legs. Another log is attached for a head and two root systems attached -for horns. The result, with the addition of a little paint resembles -very much a grotesque elk. - -In Edgemont we see huge specimens from the petrified forest, one tree of -solid rock weight 14,370 pounds. The specimens are remarkable, but we -are not destined to see the petrified forest itself. In Hot Springs -later we are to find all the petrified wood we care to carry home, -however. We will speed back to Minnekahta and thence over U. S. 18 to -Hot Springs. - - [Illustration: Gray Rocks, Custer, S. D.] - - [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium for Old Soldiers] - - - - - CHAPTER XVII - Hot Springs - - -We arrive in Hot Springs late in the afternoon and look for a cabin for -the night. All of them are filled up, so we look for a camp site. Evans -Heights is too steep for our heavily loaded car, and we drive down to -the Municipal Camp. After pitching camp we attempt to find out what -there is in Hot Springs to see. We find that there is much and -accordingly lay our plans for a big day. - -After breakfast the first thing we do is to cross the railroad track on -foot looking for petrified moss and wood. From the stream bed we get -several particularly fine specimens of the moss. These we cache while we -go into a pasture up the slope across S. D. 79 looking for petrified -wood. Our search is soon rewarded. We find many fine specimens and -return to camp well loaded with stone. The phenomenon of the mineral -water turning vegetation into stone is a peculiar one. - -We next take the twelve mile road down past the camp toward Cascade -Springs. Ten miles from Hot Springs we come upon what at one time -promised to be a fine modern city. Modern buildings were built, -including brick business buildings with glass fronts. The hope was that -“Cascade” was to be the center of medical baths instead of Hot Springs. -At the head of the would-be town is a great warm spring, or we might say -a geyser boiling out of a large hole in the ground. The water is highly -medicated. Other similar springs are in close proximity. - -We take the road on through the town and two miles farther on. We pass -through a gate to the right and almost at once hear the rumble of -Cascade Falls just below us. We drive over to the brink of the hill, -dismount, and descend. A beautiful waterfall is before us. The water -falls only about eight or ten feet, but it is impressive in its speed -and volume. Vegetation of various kinds, petrified by the minerals in -the water or just in the process of petrification fills the channel -above. Moss, waving to and fro in the water is like sand when we feel of -it. It has a cool clammy mineral feeling rather than the soft sensation -we had expected to find in moss. The bank high up, is lined with -petrified moss of a coarse texture. - -The whirl-pools just below the falls are deep enough for swimming but a -few feet farther down the stream is just right for wading. This warm -mineral water lives up to its reputation derived through long years as -Indian medicine. One just seems to feel that this is something that -tones him up ever so much. It reminds one of Ponce De Leon and his -Fountain of Youth. Many people are out here today. - - [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital. -U. S. Veterans Bureau Hospital for Disabled Soldiers and Sailors at Hot - Springs - Stevens Photo] - -We decide that no prettier or more inspiring place can be found for our -lunch, so we eat in the valley beside the falls. After lunch we inspect -the aqueduct, for irrigation, I believe, that crosses just above the -falls. - -But we must be on our way. Some of us who are not accustomed to it -wonder at the composition of the red soil in the Hills region. We see -crops, good crops, growing on brick red soil. We can hardly credit our -senses, but it must be true. - -Back at camp we climb Catholican Hill, just above and to the south of -us. From there we get an excellent view of Fall River, Cheyenne River, -Harney Peak, The Soldiers Home, The Country Club, the city, and -surrounding country. - -We drive on into Hot Springs. This is one of the larger cities of the -Hills. It is one of the most beautiful, as well. Probably the medicated -springs and the hospital service are the things for which the city is -best known. Many sick people come here to be cured. - -The great Evans Plunge is a large indoor swimming pool. Into it the -water at 90 degrees Fahr. pours in great volume. The mineral content -makes it pleasant feeling and restful. Hundreds of people swim here -daily in the busy season. This is a real swim. - -Next we visit Minnekahta Plunge, the old original Indian spring. We are -told that each gallon of its water contains approximately 62.55 grains -residue consisting of Sodium Sulphate 16.07, Mica 2.46, Potassium -Sulphate 16.51, Magnesium Sulphate 4.32, Calcium Sulphate 16.33, Sodium -Chloride 13.79. Iron Sesqui oxide Trace. - -The temperature is 96 degrees Fahr. This plunge is used as a medical -plunge, largely, with tub service as well as the swimming pool. There is -a hotel in connection with the baths. - - [Illustration: S. D. State Soldier’s Home - Stevens] - - [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital For - Disabled Soldiers and Sailors, at Hot Springs - Stevens Photo] - - [Illustration: Cascade Falls, near Hot Springs, S.D. - Stevens Photo] - -We spend another night in Hot Springs and leave early the next morning -for Wind Cave over S. D. 85. We arrive just in time for the first trip -through, register, pay our fee, and start. - -Wind Cave is a series of passages under ground formed by the erosive -action of water. Not all of the passages have been explored, but three -main routes are well marked. Above the ground there is no indication of -a cave, nothing but a low broad hill. There is a souvenir shop and -refreshment place above the entrance, and government buildings across -the road. The cave is a part of the Wind Cave National Park, owned and -operated by the United States Government. - - [Illustration: Wind Cave National Park, Hot Springs, S.D. - Wind Cave Entrance. We enter through the little building in the - foreground - Stevens Photo] - -Tradition tells us that the place was discovered by a cow-boy who was -riding by when a strong current of air carried his hat down through a -crevice in the earth. We wonder if he ever recovered his hat? Why is it -these stories leave out the one question our curiosity prompts us to -ask. Possibly his hat, though, was not as important as the discovery of -the cave. They are still looking for the other end of that current of -air. - -Now we are ready to descend. We might profit by putting on clothes that -will not be harmed when soiled, tho this is not necessary. - -To the right of the entrance is a stone carving of Alvin McDonald, the -first guide through the cave. As we enter, with gasoline lanterns, we -feel a strong downward draft. This disappears as we proceed. We go down -two long flights of stairs to start with. Down, down, down, we go, -emerging in the Bridal Chamber, 212 feet below the surface. - -Our guide tells us quite confidentially that a certain young lady wished -to marry the young man of her choice, but she had promised her mother -that she would not marry anyone on the face of the earth. To keep her -word and still satisfy her love she was married down here below the face -of the earth. When the Government took over the cave, however, they -forbade the continuance of this, for it was running matrimony into the -ground. - - [Illustration: The Sheep, Wind Cave - Lease Photo] - -Farther on we see petrified prairie dogs, on a petrified mound. We hope -our guide is strictly truthful, tho he tells us that even he cannot -vouch for the accuracy of all he tells us. Then comes the Milky Way with -petrified stars in a petrified sky, and after this the Snowball Chamber. -The Post Office 240 feet down is filled with box work crystals in a sort -of cobweb pattern, each box having some depth. We are shown the foreign -department and the great Sears Roebuck mail chute. These formations are -beautiful and remarkable formations of water, heat, minerals, and -natural phenomena. - -Room number 23 is Nellie’s room and the Beauty Parlor follows it. Rouge, -here is free. The petrified zoo confronts us; very interesting indeed if -our imaginations are up to par. The Bleeding Rock is colored with iron -oxide giving it a blood color, and sure enough the Liberty Bell is -cracked. In the rookery is a petrified bird on a petrified nest (believe -it if you can.) - - [Illustration: Wind Cave - Frost Work, Garden of Eden - Lease Photo] - -Again, quite confidentially the guide tells us that one guide went over -lovers leap the day before and six old maids followed. After the -petrified whirlwind, imagine it, we see a map of South America, and then -enter Opera Hall. From it we pass to Grant’s tomb on the Hudson and be -hanged if there isn’t an Alligator going up to see it. - -The Devil’s Lookout is 80 feet high, with his Dinner Gong close by. The -Furnace Room, Hen and Chickens, Hanging Bridge and Bridal Veil Falls are -very realistic. Sure enough, there sits a water spaniel dog begging -for—daylight. Now we see some Swiss scenery, a mountain goat, cheese, -bread and beer. Only the beer is not there, it was drunk by the last -party through. - -We next come to the Methodist Episcopal Church. It is the custom to bow -as you enter the low door and also bow going out. We are especially -requested not to spit on the altar. Bishop Fowler’s Cathedral is 190 -feet across. - -We can just see the appetizing popcorn in Popcorn Alley, and then we -pass on to the Hanging Rock. We carefully avoid going beneath it. Three -hundred feet down and half a mile in we come to Odd Fellow’s Hall. There -is the all-seeing eye and the three links—Friendship, Love, and Truth, -with the third slightly stretched. There also is the road to Jericho and -the Goat. - -We pass Samson’s Palace, The Queen’s Drawing Room, Capitol Hall, and -Turtle Pass. Here the trail divides, the short route going to the Garden -of Eden, the medium route to the Fair Grounds, and the long route to the -Pearly Gates. We take the medium. - -In order we pass Scalping Grounds, Masonic Temple, Elks Room, with an -elk head within and an American Eagle alighting on a rock, then the -Grand Canyon with its great clefts hundreds of feet underground. - -Monte Cristo Palace is 390 feet down. Old Maid’s Glasses follows and Dog -Tooth, made of five points spar crystals. McKinley’s memorial is next, -and then Assembly Hall. Here, again is much artistic boxwork formation. -Next is A. O. U. W. Hall. In it is a stone book which, our guide tells -us, is the only Natural History of Wind Cave. From here we go to the -Giant’s Punch Bowl and on to Johnston’s Camp Grounds. - -In the Bachelor’s apartments everything is upside down and all dusty. In -his cupboard is a loaf of bread with a mouse gnawing at it. This leads -us at last to the ticket office to the Fair Grounds. The Fair Grounds is -a beautiful large room with a white ceiling, the whole covering about -three acres. The first attraction is the South Dakota Teacher’s School -Room with its calcite crystal wall. The Elephant’s Foot has fallen -through the ceiling farther on. Then come S. D. Federation of Women’s -Clubs Room, Ice Gorge, and The Northwestern Hotel Men’s assembly -chamber. In the Farm Yard are a guinea hen, a little red rooster, a -polar bear, the little red hen drinking, a guinea pig, a rabbit and a -hen fighting, and a donkey. Last comes the jaw bone of a monster. - -In the Meat Market hangs a ham, a goose, and some beef. Over high steps -and under a low ceiling we pass into the Coliseum. The seats are of -white rock. In Rambler’s Hall is a knife through the ceiling. Next are -the Catacombs. Here we go down a rocky precipitous descent. Last comes -the Elk’s Room, and then the return to the entrance. Everything we have -seen is made of rock and our imagination. - - [Illustration: “Buffalo,” the Monarch of the Plains - Bison in the State Park] - - [Illustration: Traffic Cop, on a turn in the road - Lease] - -This has been an eventful trip. - -We drive on north over 85 and 81 to the South Dakota State Game -Preserve. Here we see elk, deer, and buffalo. On the way we find some -specimens of rose quartz. At the Game Lodge we stop to see the zoo. In -it are deer, mountain sheep, coyotes, foxes, bears, eagles, owls, -badgers, raccoons, porcupines, bobcats, prairie dogs, spotted rabbits, -and elk, all alive. These are particularly interesting to lovers of -animals. - - [Illustration: Bear in the Zoo] - - [Illustration: In the Zoo] - -The Game Lodge Hotel, which is the structure used by President Coolidge -as the Summer White House of 1927, is a large well furnished affair, not -altogether unsuited to the purpose for which it was used. Now, in the -reception room on opposite sides of the comfortable fireplace are large -oil paintings of President Coolidge and Grace Coolidge. Here this first -lady of the land and her distinguished husband will, in the spirit of -the paintings, receive guests in behalf of the nation and the State of -South Dakota for years to come. Elk and deer heads also adorn the walls, -while huge fur rugs cover the floor. Great leather rocking chairs and -davenports add to the comforts of the room. - - [Illustration: The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park - Rise Photo] - -So popular is the Game Lodge as a summer resort hotel that any one -wishing to secure a room here must do so several days or weeks in -advance. During the various hunting and fishing seasons of the year this -place is frequented by hunters from many other states of the Union as -well as South Dakota. - -Special hunting licenses may be procured providing lodging here during -the hunt. - -We, at last, must tear away our mooring to the Hills and head for home. -We still have a few things to see, but we have the feeling that it is -all over, and the total addition to our beings has been tremendous, too -great for measurement, and as time rolls by it grows still greater. - -We miss one of the interesting spots of the Hills, Buffalo Gap. In -Calico Canyon three miles west of town are located the most beautiful -colored sandstone in the Hills and a great natural bridge of rock. - - [Illustration: Natural Bridge at Buffalo Gap] - -At Hermosa is a neat little tourist park, but we cannot partake of it. -In Hermosa also we see the church which won so much publicity during -President Coolidge’s stay. Its picture does it justice. Hermosa Crystal -Cave is ten miles west of Hermosa. At last, we speed back to Rapid City. -Hidden City is on the way. This is the probable vestiges of what was -once an ancient building or buildings. We spend another night in that -inviting municipal park; and reluctantly with many a backward look, we -head for home. Long after we leave the Hills we can look back and see -those hazy black peaks rearing their majestic tops to the clouds. We -can’t help recalling Morse’s old phrase, “What hath God wrought.” He -indeed develops wonders here on earth at his almighty command. - - [Illustration: Hermosa Crystal Cave] - -We have been pretty much concerned about the sights, now we look around -and see what our car looks like. The food is gone. The containers now -house quartz, mica, granite, tourmaline, lithia, copper, gold ore, -pictures, pine cones, and various other souvenirs. The car glides -swiftly over the excellent roads, but nevertheless we feel it is heavily -loaded. We weigh the car, and consternation; it weighs 4,285 pounds, or -1500 pounds more than it does empty. We may as well look at the -speedometer too. It was 12,114 and now it is 13,584. We have gone 1470 -miles. 250 of these might be subtracted as our trip inland from Pierre. - -We have had our vacation, and now we go home to ponder. It has been a -glorious trip. - - [Illustration: CUSTER STATE PARK HIGHWAY - BLACK HILLS, S.D.] - - [Illustration: Moonlight on the Missouri - Pierre, S.D. - Miller Foto 39] - - - - - APPENDIX I - - -The following are some of the more important peaks of the Black Hills. - - Mountain Where located Height, ft. - - Battle Mountain Hot Springs 4431 - Bear Butte Sturgis 4422 - Crook’s Tower Rochford 7140 - Crow Peak Spearfish 5787 - Custer Peak Deadwood-Pactola 6794 - Deer Sars 3500 - Devil’s Tower Sundance, Wyo. 5117 - Flag Mountain 6900 - Harney Peak Hill City-Custer 7244 - Lookout Peak Spearfish 4485 - Missouri Buttes 5372 - Mt. Coolidge Custer 6000 - Mt. Pisgah 6400 - Ragged Top 6207 - Roosevelt Mountain Deadwood 5676 - Sheep Mountain In Badlands 3500 - Terry Peak Lead 7070 - Tow Top 3732 - White Rocks Deadwood 5286 - - [Illustration: Large Horseshoe Curve, a long way around to get a short - distance ahead] - - - - - APPENDIX II - Elevation of cities and places of interest. - - - Belle Fourche 3011 - Buffalo Gap 3258 - Camp Crook 3200 - Cascade 3406 - Crystal Cave 4242 - Custer 5301 - Deadwood 4543 - Deerfield 5900 - Edgemont 3449 - Fairburn 3310 - Ft. Meade 3300 - Galena 4832 - Hermosa 3300 - Hill City 4976 - Hot Springs 3443 - Interior 2381 - Jewel Cave 5090 - Keystone 4340 - Lead 5119 - Minnekahta 4159 - Mystic 4835 - Pactola 4459 - Philip 2159 - Piedmont 3463 - Pine Ridge 3250 - Pringle 4879 - Rapid City 3229 - Rockford 5299 - Savoy 4956 - Scenic 3812 - Silver City 4592 - Spearfish 3637 - State Game Lodge 4400 - Sturgis 3452 - Sylvan Lake 6250 - Terry 6165 - Wall 2813 - Whitewood 3644 - Wind Cave 4100 - Pierre 1457 - - [Illustration: Railroad track beside a stream] - - - - - APPENDIX III - Industries of Black Hills - - - Mining - Lumbering - Fruit Raising - Farming - Cement Plant - Sugar Factory - Flower Mills - Quarrying - Brick Making - Pickle Making - Creameries - Canning - Souvenir Making - Generation of Electricity - 150,000 H. P. estimated potential - Gov. fish and game raising - Grazing - Health Resorts - Publishing - - [Illustration: River valley] - - - - - APPENDIX IV - Fishing - - -Originally there were no trout in the Black Hills. Now nearly every -stream in the Hills is stocked with trout. The U. S. hatchery at -Spearfish and the S. D. hatchery at Rapid City keep the streams well -supplied. Approximately two million trout are thus put out each year. -They are chiefly of four varieties: Loch Leven, Black spotted, Brook, -and Rainbow. During our visit to the Hills we see fishermen practically -in every part of every stream from the interior of the tourist camps to -the headwaters in almost jungles. They use anything from the bargain one -dollar complete angling outfit to the best outfit made. For bait they -use anything from worms to flies. The local fishermen are better -authorities on the subject than the author. However, many fine specimens -are seen, and many large messes of trout are taken by all types of -fishermen. - - [Illustration: Black Hills Streams—See Page 169] - - - - - APPENDIX V - - -Some of the more important streams of the Black Hills are: - - (1) Belle Fourche River is in the north with its tributaries: - (2) Sand Creek - (3) Sundance Creek - (4) Redwater Creek - (5) Spearfish Creek - (6) May Creek - (7) Whitewood Creek - (8) Bear Butte Creek - (9) Owl Creek - -Eventually these empty into the Cheyenne River. - -Below these come the tributaries of the: - - (10) Cheyenne - (11) Elk Creek - (12) Bolder Creek - (13) Rapid Creek, with its tributaries - (14) Castle Creek - (15) Slate Creek - (16) Spring Creek - (17) Iron Creek - (18) Battle Creek - (19) Grace Coolidge Creek - (20) French Creek - (21) Lame Johnny Creek - (22) Beaver Creek - (23) Fall River - - [Illustration: A drive through the pines in the Black Hills (76) - Rise Photo] - - - - - APPENDIX VI - Camps and Camping - - -The camps themselves have been taken up to some extent in the body of -this book. In 1928 the camps in Rapid City and the northern cities far -surpassed those of the southern towns. But the people all over the -Hills, especially in the larger cities are fast awakening to the -realization that good parks play a tremendous part in the development of -their localities. Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Deadwood were the -first to realize the value of service to their visitors. They have -doubtlessly reaped rich reward for their investment, judging from the -number of people who use those camp sites night after night. - -The cost of the camps is generally fifty cents per car each night. This -pays for the site, police protection, lights, in some places shower -baths, swimming, laundry, toilets, pure water, firewood, reading room, -community cabin, piano, and any other services the locality might -afford; especially vegetable, milk, and grocery sales. Some of the camps -are almost wonders in themselves. - -For those who prefer cabins most of the camps have small log, wood, or -tent cabins, variously furnished, accommodating from two to six people -or more. These rent at a dollar plus the car fee of fifty cents to a -little more for the larger ones. The added convenience of this method of -camping is considerable. - -Some of the high spots of a life-time occur in our meeting tourists from -all parts of the state, nation, and world in these parks. These people -range all the way from sheep herders to aviators and from students to -corporatic magnates. They are all bent on the same quest, enjoyment of -nature’s wonders; and all are congenial. All are as one great family, -swapping yarns and experiences and discussing everything from the diet -of fishworms to managing an oil company. - - [Illustration: Deer in the Custer State Park - Rise Photo, Rapid City, S.D.] - - [Illustration: A Log Cabin With Fire Place] - -Hotel rates are reasonable in the Hills, for those who prefer the best -of conveniences rather than a complete outdoor vacation. Bus lines and -train service from these afford excellent sight-seeing facilities. -However, for some of us who enjoy freedom and independence the -conventional tour seems to savor too much of routine. We lose some of -the great pleasure of conquest and discovery of unusual and inaccessible -places. And the privacy of our party, our own division of our time for -the things that we personally are interested in, are features that make -or break the success of the trip. - -When one is on a vacation he likes to plan his trip so as best to -satisfy his interests and humors. This can best be accomplished when he -is his own boss and can give as much or as little time as he wishes to -each place of interest. The scheduled tours are excellent, but if a -person wishes to spend more time at the mines, in the Needles, seeing -hydro-electric plants, or inspecting factories or mills he had best plan -his own tour. - -The cost of the trip is not excessive if carefully planned. The food is -of course an item. Gasoline is another. Camp fees are small. The rest is -more or less a matter of individual taste. - -The question of camping equipment and clothing is not the easiest one -with which we must wrestle. - -First, possibly comes the food question. We might profit by carrying -meat, butter, vegetables, salt, sugar, flour, pepper, and lard from home -or bought in quantity at some point on the way, if we have a way to keep -them from the effects of the sun. Carrots, potatoes, milk, lettuce, -radishes, bread, fruit, canned goods, coffee, and groceries in general -can be bought in or near most of the camps at the prices about the same -as the home grocer charges. Carrying too much loads down the car -excessively. - - [Illustration: Head of Cottonwood Draw, in center of the “Bad Lands.” - Layers of Sandstone in Clay Beds. The sandstone protects the clay from - weathering and wearing away. The isolated caps are called “Ostrich - Heads.”] - -Camping equipment is an enigma. A light tent, heavy enough to shed rain, -large enough to accommodate all, and not having unwieldy poles, is the -first essential; unless cabins, when accessible, or hotels are to be -used. Second, enough cots should be provided to accommodate all. Car -cushions and car beds are sometimes desirable. Probably the best is the -small steel folding double camp bed with springs and a thin mattress. -But these must be strong and not easily bent. Probably the greatest -mistake of campers is to try to sleep with plenty of covering but not -enough under them. Especially with the canvas cots the conduction of the -cold air from below is considerable. Three woolen blankets or two and a -pair of sheets and a mattress will keep two people comfortably warm -under ordinary circumstances though some people prefer an extra blanket. -High altitude makes the temperature drop perceptibly. - -For clothing, khaki, whipcord, or corduroy breeches and high laced -leather boots are the ideal, both for men and women for mountain -climbing or rambling around through mines, forests, etc. They can be -cleaned and they stand rough wear. They look well also. Have a good -sunshade hat and khaki shirts; light colored ones or woolen ones are all -good. (I prefer the wool, even in the hottest weather, because of its -safeguard from cold.) Wear light underclothing of course. By all means -have two sets of this type of clothing if the stay is prolonged, as -laundry facilities are not always available. Two pairs of hose, well -pulled up, are best, as they do not permit chafing of the feet and they -protect the feet against bad results of sweat. - -If at all possible to carry one without undue wrinkling, a good suit is -desirable. There are occasions when one wishes to go to church, or to -various other gatherings, dances or the like where a camping outfit is -hardly proper. - -The car will appreciate having the load well balanced. If a heavy trunk -is suspended behind, the tent and cots had better be suspended above the -front bumper to balance it. Cover all equipment from dust and rain. Do -not pile up equipment in front of the radiator, in the uphill grades the -engine will need all the air it can get. Do not barricade any of the car -doors; you’ll be sorry if you do. It is best to supply a place for -souvenirs. Very few people go out without loading up with “junk” of one -sort or another before returning. (Our specialty was several hundred -pounds of rocks and minerals.) - - [Illustration: Railroad and Wagon Bridge over the Missouri between - Pierre and Ft. Pierre - Miller Photo] - -Other desirable items of equipment are: - - 1. Pocket compass - 2. Hatchet - 3. Field Glasses - 4. A good jack knife - 5. A trout fishing outfit - 6. Bathing suits for all - 7. Matches - 8. A pressure gasoline camp stove - 9. Small water pail - 10. Metal kettle, skillet, butcher knives, plates, knives, forks, - spoons, cups, saucers - 11. Road maps - - [Illustration: Cabin] - - - - - APPENDIX VII - NEWER DEVELOPMENTS - - -Since the body of this book has been written several new developments -have come up which should be mentioned. - -The United States Government has made an appropriation for the -continuation of the carving on Rushmore Mountain. This work is going -forward now at maximum speed. The form of the first figure is taking -shape, and indications are that the work will go forward to rapid -completion. When these figures are finished Rushmore will be one of the -masterpieces of sculpturing of the world. - -At the present time the roads to Rushmore are in very bad shape. -Indications are, however, that a graded, surfaced highway will soon lead -up to the mountain, the state and the local counties are putting forth -every effort to improve the main roads and to make new roads where such -are needed. In the not far remote future many of the scenic places not -now readily accessible will be opened up to Black Hills visitors. - -The South Dakota Department of Agriculture, the Black Hills Commercial -Clubs, and various other organizations are calling attention to mining -possibilities in the “Hills.” Many organizations from within the state -and from outside the state are inquiring into these projects, and many -mining leases are being let. Some of the newer developments are -aluminum, onyx and glass. - -Probably in the near future the Black Hills will have far greater -commercial importance than they at present have. - -The United States Government has also made a national park out of the -Bad Lands. This means that many of the places that were not well known -before will be brought to the sightseeing world. It also means that some -of the heretofore bad roads will be surfaced, so the Bad Lands will not -necessarily have to be left out because of rain. The Bad Lands is a -truly remarkable sight, and should not be passed up by visitors to the -“Hills.” The added mileage is not great, but the added experience gained -through seeing them is enormous. - -[Illustration: A typical scene, showing a valley flanked by hills, with - prairie beyond, along a creek in Haakon County] - -Many of the scenic spots in Rapid Canyon and Spearfish Canyon have not -been taken up in this volume. Either of these places afford many -beautiful sights, especially the latter. The Spearfish Canyon leads -clear up to Lead. On the way are many summer camps or taverns. There are -many side canyons leading off the main Spearfish Canyon, each of which -is in itself worth ascending. The best known of these is Little -Spearfish Canyon. All through the Hills these beautiful but not well -known canyons and gulches may be found. - -The pools below Sylvan Lake is a place that should be visited, either by -descent from the roadside marker, north of the lake, or by the path down -from Sylvan Lake. - -One place of interest not before mentioned is the beautiful “Pheasant -Dining Room” at the Game Lodge. In it, just below the ceiling, are -thirty-three pheasants, mounted in various positions, standing, flying, -and alighting. - -The Belle Fourche Roundup has been taken up in some detail. Other events -of the summer season are not wanting. Rapid City has its Council of -American Indians, Custer its Gold Discovery Day, Deadwood its Days of -’76, Interior its Roundup, and so on. All of these affairs are worth -attending. They are first class, demonstrations of the things they -convey, and there is a liberal education in them for the person -uninformed in their field of thought. - - [Illustration: Trees silhouetted by moonlight] - - - - - APPENDIX VIII - ROUTES - - -Sometimes requests are made for lists of things to see on one or two -days trips out of Rapid City. Following are four possible trips, calling -for one or two days or even a week each: - -1. First, the Rapid Canyon trip. - -See the School of Mines Museum at the Eastern entrance to the city. From -there go through the city past the “Old Mill Tea Room.” Take the Cement -plant road from the Bacon camp. After seeing the cement plant return, -and turn south at Bacon Camp. Take the road to Municipal Camp. Go -through the Municipal Camp, and if possible, take a swim in the pool, -over the ridge from the first row of cabins. You’ll remember that swim. - -From Municipal Camp take the canyon road to the left of the camp gate. -From here ascend the canyon to Lockhart’s Inn. Here, if such is desired, -see Lockhart’s moss sculpturing. Go on foot up the track to the Dark -Canyon trail. This leads for several miles around crags, up Dark canyon, -to Victoria Falls. Go up as far as you wish. Return to Rapid City. - -2. Northern Hills. - -Take in any of the Rapid City sights before mentioned. Take U. S. 16 -west, then north to Crystal Cave. Plan on a half day for this. Then -continue north to Sturgis. There see Bear Butte. Climb it, if you feel -ambitious. See the United States Military Post, Fort Meade, east of town -on S. D. 24. Return, and either take Boulder Canyon, S. D. 24, or U. S. -16 to Spearfish. See the Municipal Camp and United States trout hatchery -southwest of town, and possibly the teachers college north of the city. -Take a trip up the canyon, at least to Bridal Veil Falls. Stop at -Wildcat Cave on the way if you have time. Return to Spearfish, and take -U. S. 85 north to Belle Fourche. There see the sugar plant and Orman -Dam. Return to Spearfish and on U. S. 16 to U. S. 85 which takes you to -Deadwood. See Preacher Smith’s monument on the way. Stop at Pine Crest -camp. In Deadwood see Mt. Moriah Cemetery, White Rocks, and Roosevelt -Mountain. Return to Deadwood, and then take the road right straight -through main street west, over the old mines road to Lead. On this road, -(it is gravel surfaced,) see the vestiges of old mines and the old -Central City. In Lead see the Homestake Mine. This begins at the -Burlington station near the eastern end of main street. After the mine, -take Icebox Canyon road to Cheyenne crossing and return or go direct -over S. D. 83 to Pactola, and Sheridan. From here take S. D. 40 back to -Rapid City over the beautiful Spring Creek road. - - [Illustration: Mouth of Dark Canyon - Rise Photo—Rapid City, S.D.] - -3. Central Hills. - -Again, see Rapid City. Take S. D. 40 through the beautiful Spring Creek -valley to Sheridan and Hill City, and then back to Keystone, or you -might go directly to Keystone. The roads might be rather rough. At -Keystone see Keystone Consolidated Mines, Etta Mine, Juga Mine and a -mica mine. Then see Rushmore mountain. Return to Hill City, or the mine -trip may be left out. From Hill City take the road to Sylvan Lake. Here -see the Lake and the Gorge. Climb Harney Peak, the highest point east of -the Rocky Mountains. From Sylvan Lake take the Needles Highway -twenty-seven miles, and double back over S. D. 36 to Custer. On the way -you see the Tallent monument, and to the right a few paces the Gordon -Stockade. See Jewell Cave, gold discovery monument, rose quartz mounted -in masonry and the big log cabin and the museum. Take S. D. 36 through -Galena, the Game Lodge and Hermosa, to Rapid City. In Hermosa see the -church Pres. Coolidge attended. - -If the roads are bad take S. D. 79 from the East end of main street when -leaving Rapid City, instead of S. D. 40 to the west. Thus you see -Hermosa, and President Coolidge’s little church, the Game Lodge, Custer -and Sylvan Lake in reverse order, and then double back over the same -route when returning. - - [Illustration: Indian maiden] - -4. Southern Hills. - -Take S. D. 79 through Hermosa, Game Lodge and Galena. Leave 79 and take -S. D. 81 south past Mt. Coolidge to Wind Cave. Go through this. Drive on -to Hot Springs. See Cascade Springs and Cascade Falls. Ask the way at -any filling station. See the petrified wood and petrified moss over the -track east of the Municipal Camp. Take some of it with you. See Evans -camp, and swim in Evans Plunge before you leave. Visit the old soldiers’ -home. Take the same route back, or go west to Custer when you reach S. -D. 36, and from there take in the Needles, Sylvan Lake, Harney Peak, -Hill City, and Sheridan, thence back to Rapid City. - -Make it as intensive a trip as your time will permit. If the time is -limited some of the places must be left out. - -If you wish, you may take the trip through the most interesting places -by motor bus. These busses leave Rapid City at short intervals, and -their trip is really enjoyable. - - - - - DRIVING DISTANCE FROM RAPID CITY - - - Blackhawk 16 N. W. 7 - Piedmont 16 ” 14 - Crystal Cave 16 ” 22 - Tilford 16 ” 28 - Sturgis 16 ” 30 - Whitewood 16 ” 38 - Spearfish 16-85 ” 51 - Belle Fourche 16-85 ” 64 - Newell 16 ” 62 - Deadwood 16 Boulder ” 43 - Lead 16 Canyon ” 46 - Box Elder 16 East 10 - Underwood 16 ” 22 - Scenic 40 S. E. 55 - Interior 40 ” 70 - Pactola 85 West 25 - Hermosa 70 South 21 - Buffalo Gap 79 ” 50 - Hot Springs 79 ” 63 - Edgemont 79-85 ” 96 - State Lodge 79-36 ” 35 - Pringle 79-36-85 ” 55 - Sylvan Lake 85 ” 52 - Custer 79-36 ” 42 - Keystone S. W. 27 - Hill City 40-85 ” 28 - Rushmore ” 30 - Phillip 16 East 93 - - - - - DISTANCE FROM DEADWOOD OF VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST - - - Spearfish 85-16 N. W. 13 - Belle Fourche 85-16 N. W. 3 - Lead 14 West 26 - Sturgis Boulder East 12 - Crystal Cave Boulder 14 ” 27 - Rapid City Boulder 14 ” 43 - Pactola 85 South 30 - Hill City 85 ” 45 - Keystone 85 ” 56 - Rushmore Mt. 85 ” 56 - Sylvan Lake 85 ” 52 - Game Lodge 85-36 ” 72 - Hermosa 85-36 ” 86 - Custer 85 ” 58 - Custer-Needles 85 ” 74 - Hot Springs 85 ” 84 - Edgemont 85 ” 95 - - - - - Through the - BLACK HILLS - and - BAD LANDS - of - So. Dak. - - - - - Authentic Guide - History—Statistics—Scenery - - - Copyright, 1929 - By - P. D. Peterson - - Price, $1.35 - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Copyright notice provided as in the original—this e-text is public - domain in the country of publication. - ---Silently corrected palpable typos; left non-standard spellings and - dialect unchanged. - ---Transcribed captions within photographs, where they added information - not in the printed caption. - ---In the text version only, italicized text is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands -of South Dakota, by Purl Dewey Peterson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS *** - -***** This file should be named 54007-0.txt or 54007-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/0/0/54007/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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