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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..534ffbf --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53939 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53939) diff --git a/old/53939-0.txt b/old/53939-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ec35bf4..0000000 --- a/old/53939-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6878 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Adventures of an Angler in Canada, Nova -Scotia and the United States, by Charles Lanman - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Adventures of an Angler in Canada, Nova Scotia and the United States - - -Author: Charles Lanman - - - -Release Date: January 10, 2017 [eBook #53939] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN CANADA, -NOVA SCOTIA AND THE UNITED STATES*** - - -This e-book was generously made available by FadedPage.com -(http://www.fadedpage.com) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 53939-h.htm or 53939-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/53939/53939-h/53939-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/53939/53939-h.zip) - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - - - - -[Illustration: CHARLES LANMAN. -AUTHOR OF ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN AMERICA] - - -ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN CANADA, NOVA SCOTIA AND THE UNITED STATES. - -by - -CHARLES LANMAN. - - - - - - - -London: -Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street. -Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty. -1848. - -LONDON: -Printed by Schulze & Co., 13, Poland Street. - - - - - TO - SOLOMON T. NICOLL, ESQ. - - - My dear Sir, - -To you, in testimony of my friendship, I inscribe this little Volume. - -On a pleasant morning in May last, I awoke from a piscatorial dream, -haunted by the idea, that I must spend a portion of the approaching -summer in the indulgence of my passion for angling. Relinquishing my -editorial labours for a time, I performed a pilgrimage, which has -resulted in the production of this Volume. I hope it may entertain those -of my friends and the public, who have heretofore received my literary -efforts with favour. The work will be found to contain a record of -Adventures in the Valleys of the Hudson, St. Lawrence and St. John, and -along some of the rivers of New England. - - Truly your friend, - Charles Lanman. - -NEW-YORK, 1847. - - - - - ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - CATSKILL MOUNTAINS _Page_ 2 - LAKE HORICON 53 - RUINS OF FORT TICONDEROGA 117 - FRANCONIA NOTCH 138 - FALLS OF MONTMORENCY 162 - CAPE TRINITY ON THE SAGUENAY 180 - FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN 242 - ROBERT EGGER’S FARM ON THE AROOSTOOK 250 - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - The Catskill Mountains—South Peak Mountain—A thunder - storm—Midnight on the Mountains—Sunrise—Plauterkill - Clove—Peter Hummel—Trout fishing—Stony Clove—The - Kauterskill Fall—The Mountain House—The Mountain Lake PAGE 1 - - CHAPTER II. - A Spring Day—The Sky—The Mountains—The Streams—The Woods—The Open - Fields—Domestic Animals—Poetry—The Poultry-yard 29 - - CHAPTER III. - A corn-planting Bee 43 - - CHAPTER IV. - Lake Horicon—Sketches of its scenery—Information for - anglers—Sabbath-day Point—War memories—The Turret - City—Death of a deer—Roger’s Slide—Diamond Island—The - snake-charmer—Snake stories—Night on the Horicon 50 - - CHAPTER V. - The Scaroon Country—Scaroon Lake—Pike Fishing by Torch-light—Trout - Fishing—Lyndsey’s Tavern—Paradox Lake 69 - - CHAPTER VI. - The Adirondac Mountains—Trout Fishing in the Boreas River—A night - in the woods—Moose Lake—Lake Delia—Mount Tahawas—Lakes - Sanford and Henderson—The McIntyre Iron Works 80 - - CHAPTER VII. - John Cheney, the Adirondac hunter, and some of his exploits 100 - - CHAPTER VIII. - Burlington—Lake Champlain—Distinguished Men 115 - - CHAPTER IX. - Stage-coach—The Winooski—The Green Mountains—The ruined - Dwelling—The White Mountains—The Flume—A deep Pool—The Old - Man of the Mountain—The Basin—Franconia Notch—View of the - Mountains—Mount Washington—The Notch Valley 130 - - CHAPTER X. - Montreal 148 - - CHAPTER XI. - Quebec 155 - - CHAPTER XII. - A sail down the St. Lawrence—Sword-Fish—Chasing a Whale 164 - - CHAPTER XIII. - The Saguenay River—Chicoutimi—Storm Picture—Hudson’s Bay - Company—Eminent Merchant—The Mountaineer - Indians—Tadousac—Ruin of a Jesuit Establishment 173 - - CHAPTER XIV. - The Salmon—Salmon Adventures 187 - - CHAPTER XV. - Seal-hunting on the St. Lawrence—The white Porpoise 204 - - CHAPTER XVI. - The Esquimaux Indians of Labrador 212 - - CHAPTER XVII. - The Habitans of Canada 218 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - The Grand Portage into New Brunswick—Lake Timiscouta—The Madawaska - River 225 - - CHAPTER XIX. - The Acadians 232 - - CHAPTER XX. - Sail down the Madawaska—The Falls of the St. John 238 - - CHAPTER XXI. - The Hermit of Aroostook 244 - - CHAPTER XXII. - The River St. John 266 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - The Penobscot River 272 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - Moosehead Lake—The River Kennebeck 278 - - CHAPTER XXV. - A Fishing Party on the Thames—Watch Hill—Night Adventures 291 - - CHAPTER XXVI. - A week in a Fishing Smack—Fisherman—A beautiful morning - at sea—A day at Nantucket—Wreck of a ship—Night - on the Sound 308 - - - - - ADVENTURES - OF AN - ANGLER. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - -The Catskill Mountains—South Peak Mountain—A thunder storm—Midnight on -the Mountains—Sunrise—Plauterkill Clove—Peter Hummel—Trout fishing—Stony -Clove—The Kauterskill Fall—The Mountain House—The Mountain Lake. - - Plauterkill Clove. May. - -I commence this chapter in the language of Leather-Stocking: “You know -the Catskills, lad, for you must have seen them on your left, as you -followed the river up from York, looking as blue as a piece of clear -sky, and holding the clouds on their tops, as the smoke curls over the -head of an Indian chief at a council-fire.” Yes, every body is -acquainted with the names of these mountains, but few with their -peculiarities of scenery. They are situated about eight miles from the -Hudson, rise to an average elevation of thirty-five hundred feet, and -running in a straight line from north to south, cover a space of some -twenty-five miles. The fertile valley on the east is as beautiful as -heart could desire; it is watered by the Kauterskill, Plauterkill and -Esopus Creeks, inhabited by a sturdy Dutch yeomanry, and is the -agricultural mother of Catskill, Saugerties and Kingston. The upland on -the west, for about forty miles, is rugged, dreary, and thinly settled; -but the winding valley of Schoharie beyond, is possessed of many charms -peculiarly American. The mountains themselves are covered with dense -forests, abounding in cliffs and waterfalls, and for the most part -untrodden by the footsteps of men. Looking at them from the Hudson, the -eye is attracted by two deep hollows, which are called “Cloves.” - -[Illustration: CATSKILL MOUNTAINS.] - -The one nearest to the Mountain House, Kauterskill Clove, is -distinguished for a remarkable fall, which has been made familiar to the -world by the pen of Bryant and the pencil of Cole; but this Clove is -rapidly filling up with human habitations; while the other, Plauterkill -Clove, though yet possessing much of its original glory, is certain of -the same destiny. The gorge whence issues the Esopus, is among the -Shaudaken mountains, and not visible from the Hudson. - -My nominal residence, at the present time, is at the mouth of -Plauterkill Clove. To the west, and only half a mile from my abode, are -the beautiful mountains, whose outlines fade away to the north, like the -waves of the sea when covered with a _visible_ atmosphere. The nearest, -and to me the most beloved of these, is called South Peak. It is nearly -four thousand feet high, and covered from base to summit with one vast -forest of trees, varying from eighty to a hundred feet in height. Like -its brethren, it is a wild and uncultivated wilderness, abounding in all -the interesting features of mountain scenery. Like a corner stone does -it stand at the junction of the northern and western ranges of the -Catskills, and as its huge form looms against the evening sky, it -inspires one with awe, as if it were the ruler of the world: and yet, I -have learned to love it as a friend. I have pondered upon its impressive -features, when reposing in the noon-tide sunshine, when enveloped in -clouds, when holding communion with the most holy night, and when -trembling under the influence of a thunder-storm, and encircled by a -rainbow. It has filled my soul with images of beauty and sublimity, and -made me feel the omnipotence of God. - -A day and night was it lately my privilege to spend upon this mountain, -accompanied by a poet-friend. We started at an early hour, equipped in -our brown fustians, and laden with well-filled knapsacks, one with a -hatchet in his belt, and the other with a brace of pistols. We were -bound to the extreme summit of the peak, where we intended to spend the -night, witness the rising of the sun, and return at our leisure on the -following day. But when I tell you, that our course lay right up the -almost perpendicular side of the mountain, where was no path save that -formed by a torrent or a bear, you will readily believe it was somewhat -rare and romantic. But this was what we delighted in; so we shouted -“Excelsior,” and commenced the ascent. The air was excessively sultry, -and the very first effort we made, caused the perspiration to start most -profusely. Upward, upward was our course; now climbing through a tangled -thicket, or under the spray of a cascade, and then again supporting -ourselves by the roots of saplings or scrambling under a fallen tree; -now, like the samphire gatherer, scaling a precipice; and then again -clambering over a rock, or “shinning” up a hemlock tree, to reach a -desired point. - -Our first halt was made at a singular spot called Hunter’s Hole, which -is a spacious cavern or pit, forty feet deep and twenty wide, and -approached only by a fissure in the mountain, sufficiently large to -admit a man. Connected with this place, is the following story. - -Many years ago, a farmer, residing at the foot of the mountain, having -missed a favourite dog, and being anxious for his safety, called -together his neighbours and offered a reward for the safe return of his -canine friend. Always ready to do a kind deed, a number of them started -in different directions for the hunt. A barking sound having been heard -to issue from this cavern, it discovered that the lost dog was at the -bottom, where he had most probably fallen while chasing a fox. “But how -shall he be extricated from this hole?” was the general enquiry of the -now-assembled hunters. Not one of all the group would venture to descend -under any circumstances; so that the poor animal remained a prisoner for -another night. But the next morning he was released, and by none other -than a brave boy, the son of the farmer, and playmate of the dog. A -large number of men were present on the occasion. A strong rope was tied -around the body of the child, and he was gently lowered down. On -reaching the bottom, and finding by the aid of his lamp, that he was in -a “real nice place,” the little rogue concluded to have some sport; -whereupon he proceeded to pull down more rope, until he had made a coil -of two hundred feet, which was bewildering enough to the crowd above; -but nothing happened to him during the adventure, and the dog was -rescued. The young hero having played his trick so well, it was -generally supposed, for a long time after, that this cavern was two -hundred feet deep, and none were ever found sufficiently bold to enter -in, even after a fox. The bravery of the boy, however, was eventually -the cause of his death, for he was cut down by a leaden ball in the war -of 1812. - -The next remarkable place that we attained in ascending South Peak, was -the Bear Bank, where, in the depth of winter may be found an abundance -of these charming creatures. It is said, that they have often been seen -sunning themselves, even from the hills east of the Hudson. We were now -under a beetling precipice, three hundred feet high, and there, under -the shadow of a huge pine, we enjoyed a slice of bread and pork, with a -few drops of the genuine mountain dew. - -Instead of a dessert of strawberries and cream, however, we were -furnished, by venerable dame Nature, with a thunder-storm. It was one -that we had noticed making a great commotion in the valley below. It had -probably discovered two bipeds going towards its home, the sky, and -seemed to have pursued us with a view of frightening us back again. But -“knowing that nature never did betray the heart that loved her,” we -awaited the thunderstorm’s reply to our obstinate refusal to descend. -The cloud was yet below us, but its unseen herald, a strong east wind, -told us that the conflict had commenced. Presently a peal of thunder -resounded through the vast profound, which caused the mountain to -tremble to its deep foundation. And then followed another, and another, -as the storm increased, and the rain and hail poured down in floods. - -Thinking it safer to expose ourselves to the storm than remain under the -pine, we retreated without delay, when we were suddenly enveloped in the -heart of the cloud, only a few rods distant; then, a stroke of lightning -blinded us, and the towering forest monarch was smitten to the earth. We -were in the midst of an unwritten epic poem about that time, but we -could not appreciate its beauties, for another peal of thunder, and -another stroke of lightning attracted our whole attention. Soon as these -had passed, a terrible gale followed in their wake, tumbling down piles -of loose rocks, and bending to the dust, as if in passion, the resisting -forms of an army of trees; and afterwards a glorious rainbow spanned the -mountain, appearing like those distinguishing circles around the temples -of the mighty and holy, as portrayed by the painters of old. The -commotion lasted for one hour, when the region of the Bear Bank became -as serene as the slumber of a babe. A spirit of silent prayer was -brooding upon the earth and in the air; and with a shadow of -thoughtfulness at our hearts, we resumed our upward march. - -Our next halting place was upon a sort of peninsula, called the Eagle’s -Nest, where, it is said, an Indian child was formerly carried by one of -those birds, and cruelly destroyed, and whence the frantic mother, with -the mangled body of her babe, leaped into the terrible abyss below. From -this point, we discovered a host of clouds assembled in council above -High Peak, as if discussing the parched condition of the earth, and the -speediest mode of affording relief to a still greater extent than they -had done; and far away to the west, was another assembly of clouds, -vieing like sportive children, to outrun and overleap each other in -their aerial amphitheatre. - -After this, we surmounted another point called Rattlesnake Ledge. Here -the rocks were literally covered with the white bones of those reptiles, -slaughtered by the hunter in by-gone years, and we happened to see a -pair of them that were alive. One was about four feet long, and the -other, which was only about half as large, seemed to be the offspring of -the old one, for, when discovered, they were playing together like an -affectionate mother with her tender child. Soon as we appeared in their -presence, the serpents immediately ceased their sports, and in the -twinkling of an eye they coiled themselves in the attitude of battle. -The conflict was of short duration, and to know the result you need only -look into my cabinet of curiosities. - -Higher yet was it our lot to climb. We went a little out of our course -to obtain a bird’s-eye view of a mountain lake. In its tranquil bosom -the glowing evening sky and mountain sides were vividly reflected, and -the silence surrounding it was so profound, that we could almost hear -the ripples made by a solitary duck, as it swam from one shore to the -other in its utter loneliness. Very beautiful, indeed, was this picture; -and as I reflected upon it, I thought that, as the Infant of Bethlehem -was tenderly protected by the parents who watched over its slumbers, so -was this exquisite lake cradled and protected in the lap of the -mountains. - -One sight more did we behold before reaching the summit of South Peak. -It was the sunset hour, and on a jutting cliff, which commanded an -immense view, our eyes were delighted by the sight of a deer, standing -still, and looking down upon the silent void below, which was then -covered with a deep purple atmosphere, causing the prospect to resemble -the boundless ocean. It was the last of its race, we could not but -fancy, bidding the human world good night, previous to seeking its -heathery couch in a nameless ravine. - -One effort more, and the long-desired eminence was attained; and we were -a little nearer the evening star than we had ever been before. It was -now the hour of twilight, and as we were about done over with fatigue, -it was not long before we had pitched our leafy tent, eaten some supper, -and yielded ourselves to the embrace of sleep, - - “Dear mother of fresh thoughts and joyous health.” - -At midnight, a cooling breath of air having passed across my face, I was -awakened from a fearful dream, which left me in a nervous and excited -state of mind. A strange and solemn gloom had taken possession of my -spirit, which was greatly enhanced by the doleful song of a neighbouring -hemlock grove. Our encampment having been made a little below the summit -of the Peak, and feeling anxious to behold the prospect at that hour -from that point, I awakened my companion, and we seated ourselves upon -the topmost rock, which was nearly bare of shrubs, but covered with a -rich moss, softer and more beautiful than the finest carpet. - -But how can I describe the scene that burst upon our enraptured vision. -It was unlike anything I had ever seen before, creating a lone, lost -feeling, which I supposed could only be realized by a wanderer in an -uninhabited wilderness, or on the ocean, a thousand leagues from home. -Above, around, and beneath us—ay, far beneath us—were the cold, bright -stars, and to the eastward, the “young moon with the old moon in her -arms.” In the west were floating a little band of pearly clouds, which I -almost fancied to be winged chariots, and that they were crowded with -children, the absent and loved of other years, who, in a frolic of -blissful joy, were out upon the fields of heaven. On one side of us -reposed the long, broad valley of the Hudson, with its cities, towns, -villages, woods, hills, and plains, whose crowded highway was diminished -to a narrow girdle of deep blue. Towards the south, hill beyond hill, -field beyond field, receded to the sky, occasionally enlivened by a -peaceful lake. On our right, a multitudinous array of rugged mountains -lay piled up, apparently as impassable as the bottomless gulf. To the -north, Old High Peak, king of the Catskills, bared his bosom to the -moonlight, as if demanding and expecting the homage of the world. -Strange and magnificent, indeed, was the prospect from that mountain -watch-tower; and it was with reluctance that we turned away, as in duty -bound, to slumber until the dawn. - -The dawn! And now for a sunrise picture among the mountains, with all -the illusive performances of the mists and clouds. He comes! he comes! -the “king of the bright days!” - -Now the crimson and golden clouds are parting, and he bursts on the -bewildered sight. One moment more, and the whole earth rejoices in his -beams, falling alike, as they do, upon the prince and the peasant of -every land. And now, on either side and beneath the sun, an array of -new-born clouds are gathering, like a band of cavaliers, preparing to -accompany their leader on a journey. Out of the Atlantic have they just -arisen; at noon they will have pitched their tents on the cerulean -plains of heaven; and when the hours of day are numbered, the far-off -waters of the Pacific will again receive them in its cool embrace. - -Listen! was not that the roar of waves? Naught but the report of thunder -in the valley below. Are not the two oceans coming together? See! we are -on a rock, in the midst of an illimitable sea, and the tide is surely -rising—rising rapidly! Strange! it is still as death, and yet the oceans -are covered with billows. Lo! the naked masts of a ship, stranded on a -lee-shore; and yonder, as if a reef were hidden there to impede their -course, the waves are struggling in despair, now leaping to the sky, and -now plunging into a deep abyss! And when they have passed the unseen -enemy, how rapid and beautiful are their various evolutions, as they -hasten to the more distant shore. - -Another look, and what a change! The mists of morning are being exhaled -by the risen sun; already the world of waters is dispersed, and in the -valley of the Hudson, far far away, are reposing all the enchanting -features of the green earth. - -We descended the mountain by a circuitous route, that we might enjoy the -luxury of passing through Plauterkill Clove. The same spring that gives -rise to Schoharie Creek, which is the principal tributary of the Mohawk, -also gives rise to the Plauterkill. In its very infancy it begins to -leap and laugh with the gladness of a boy. From its source to the plain, -the distance is only two miles, and yet it has a fall of twenty-five -hundred feet; but the remainder of its course, until it reaches the -Esopus, is calm and picturesque; and on every side, and at every turn, -may be seen the farm-houses of a sturdy yeomanry. - -The wild gorge, or dell, through which it passes, abounds in waterfalls -of surpassing beauty, varying from ten to a hundred feet in height, -whose rocks are green with the moss of centuries, and whose brows are -ever wreathed with the most exquisite of vines and flowers. Here is the -Double Leap, with its almost fathomless pool, containing a hermit trout, -that has laughed at the angler’s skill for a score of years; the Fall of -the Mountain Spirit, haunted, as it is said, by the disembodied spirit -of an Indian girl, who lost her life here, while pursuing a phantom of -the brain; and here is the Blue Bell Fall, for ever guarded by a -multitudinous array of those charming flowers. Caverns, too, and chasms -are here, dark, deep, chilly, and damp, where the toad, the lizard, and -snake, and strange families of insects, are perpetually multiplying, and -actually seeming to enjoy their loathsome lives; and here is the Black -Chasm and the Devil’s Chamber, the latter with perpendicular walls, -twice the height of Old Trinity, and with a wainscoting of pines and -hemlocks, which have “braved a thousand years the battle and the -breeze.” Plauterkill Clove is an eddy of the great and tumultuous world, -and in itself a world of unwritten poetry, whose primitive loveliness -has not yet been disfigured by the influence of Mammon. It has been -consecrated by a brotherhood of friends, well tried and true, to the -pure religion of nature; and after spending a summer day therein, and -then emerging under the open sky, their feelings are always allied to -those of a pilgrim in a strange land, passing through the dreamy -twilight of an old cathedral. - -But it is time that I should change my tune, as I desire to record a few -fishing adventures, which I have lately experienced among the Catskills. -My first excursion was performed along the margin of Sweetwater Brook, -which flows out of the lake already mentioned. My guide and companion -was a notorious hunter of this region, named Peter Hummel, whose -services I have engaged for all my future rambles among the mountains. -He is decidedly one of the wildest and rarest characters I have ever -known, and would be a valuable acquisition to a menagerie. He was born -in a little hut, at the foot of South Peak, is twenty-seven years of -age, and has never been to school a day in his life, or, in his travels -towards civilization, further away from home than fifteen miles. He was -educated for a bark-gatherer, his father and several brothers having -always been in the business; but Peter is averse to common-place labour, -to anything, in fact, that will bring money. - -When a boy of five years, he had an inkling for the mountains, and once -had wandered so far, that he was found by his father, in the den of an -old bear, playing with her cubs. To tramp among the mountains, with gun -and dog, is Peter’s chief and only happiness. He is probably one of the -best specimens of a hunter now living; and very few, I fancy, could have -survived the dangers to which he has exposed himself. As to his -constitution, he seems to be one of those iron mortals, who never die -with age and infirmity, but who generally meet with a sudden death, as -if to recompense them for their heedlessness. But with all his wildness -and recklessness, Peter Hummel is as amiable and kind-hearted a man as -ever breathed. He is an original wit, withal, and shrewd and very -laughable are many of his speeches; and his stories are the cream of -romance and genuine mountain poetry. - -But to my story. As usual, we started on our tramp at an early hour, he -with a trout-basket in his hand, containing our dinner, and I with my -sketch-book and a “pilgrim staff.” After a tiresome ascent of three -hours, up a mountain path, over ledges and through gloomy ravines, we at -last reached the wished-for brook. All the day long were we cheered by -its happy song, as we descended, now leaping from one deep pool to -another, and now scrambling over green-coated rocks, under and around -fallen trees, and along the damp, slippery sides of the mountain, until -we reached its mouth on a plain, watered by a charming river, and -sprinkled with the rustic residences of the Dutch yeomanry. We were at -home by sunset, having walked the distance of twenty miles, and captured -one hundred and fifty trout, the most of which we distributed among the -farm-houses in our way, as we returned. The trout were small, varying -from three to eight ounces in weight, and of a dark brown colour. - -On another occasion, I had taken my sketch-book and some fishing-tackle, -and gone up a mountain road to the banks of Schoharie Creek, nominally -for the purpose of sketching a few trees. In the very first hole of the -stream into which I accidentally peered, I discovered a large trout -lying near the bottom, just above a little bed of sand, whence rose the -bubbles of a spring. For some thirty minutes I watched the fellow with a -“yearning tenderness;” but as he appeared to be so very happy, and I was -in a kindred mood, I thought that I would let him live. Presently, -however, a beautiful fly lighted on the water, which the greedy hermit -swallowed in a minute, and returned to his cool bed with his conscience, -as I fancied, not one whit troubled by what he had done. Involuntarily I -began to unwind my line; and having cut a pole, and repeated to myself -something about “diamond cut diamond,” I whipped on a red hackle and -passed it over the pool. The rogue of a trout, however, saw me, and -scorned for awhile to heed my lure. But I coaxed and coaxed, until at -last he darted for it, apparently out of mere spite. Something similar -to a miniature water-spout immediately arose, and the monarch of the -brook was in a fair way of sharing the same fate which had befallen the -innocent fly. I learned a salutary lesson from this incident, and as I -had yielded to the temptation of the brook, I shouldered my sketch-book -and descended the stream. At noon I reached a farm-house, where I craved -something to eat. A good dinner was given me, which was seasoned by many -questions, and some information, concerning trout. That afternoon, in -company with a little boy, I visited a neighbouring stream, called the -Roaring Kill, where I caught one hundred and sixty fish. I then returned -to the farm-house, and spent the evening in conversation with my new -acquaintances. After breakfast, on the following morning, I set out for -home, and reached there about noon, having made only two additions to my -sketches. Long shall I remember the evening spent with this family, and -their hospitality towards an entire stranger. A pleasant family was that -night added to my list of friends. - -Another of my trouting pilgrimages was to a famous place, called Stony -Clove, among the mountains of Shaudaken. It is a deep perpendicular cut, -or gorge, between two mountains, two thousand feet in depth, from twenty -feet to four hundred in width, and completely lined, from base to -summit, with luxuriant vegetation. It is watered by a narrow but deep -brook, which is so full of trout, that some seven hundred were captured -by myself and two others in a single day. When I tell you that this spot -is only about one hundred miles from New York, you will be surprised to -learn, that in its immediate vicinity we saw no less than two bears, one -doe with two fawns, and other valuable game. - -In some parts of this Clove the sunshine never enters, and whole tons of -the purest ice may be found there throughout the year. It is, indeed, a -most lonely and desolate corner of the world, and might be considered a -fitting type of the Valley of the Shadow of Death; in single file did we -have to pass through it, and in single file do the sons of men pass into -the grave. To spend one day there, we had to encamp two nights; and how -we generally manage that affair I will mention presently. - -In returning from Stony Clove, we took a circuitous route, and visited -the Mountain House. We approached it by the way of the celebrated -Kauterskill Fall, which I will describe to you in the graphic language -of Cooper, as you may not remember the passage in his “Pioneer.” “Why -there’s a fall in the hills, where the water of two little ponds, that -lie near each other, breaks out of their bounds, and runs over the rocks -into the valley. The stream is, may be, such a one as would turn a mill, -if so useless a thing was wanted in the wilderness. _But the Hand that -made that ‘Leap’ never made a mill!_ There the water comes croaking and -winding among the rocks, first so slow that a trout might swim in it, -and then starting and running, just like any creature that wanted to -make a fair spring, till it gets to where the mountain divides, like the -cleft foot of a deer, leaving a deep hollow for the brook to tumble -into. The first pitch is nigh two hundred feet, and the water looks like -flakes of snow afore it touches the bottom, and then gathers itself -together again for a new start, and, may be, flutters over fifty feet of -flat rock, before it falls for another hundred, where it jumps from -shelf to shelf, first running this way and that way, striving to get out -of the hollow, till it finally comes to the plain.” - -Our party, on this occasion, consisted of three, Peter Hummel, a -bark-gatherer, and myself. I had chosen these fellows for the -expedition, because of their friendship for me and their willingness to -go, and I resolved to give them a “treat” at the “Grand Hotel,” which -the natives of this region look upon as a kind of paradise. The reader -is no doubt aware, that the Mountain House is an establishment vieing in -its style of accommodation with the best of hotels. - -Between it and the Hudson there is, during the summer, a semi-daily line -of stages; and it is the transient resort of thousands, who visit it for -the novelty of its situation, as well as for the surrounding scenery. -The edifice itself stands on a cliff, within a few feet of the edge, and -commands a prospect extending from Long Island Sound to the White -Mountains. The first time I visited the spot, I spent half the night at -my bed-room window, watching the fantastic performances of a -thunder-storm far below me, which made the building tremble like a ship -upon a reef, while the sky above was cloudless, and studded with stars. -Between this spot and South Peak, “there’s the High Peak and the Round -Top which lay back, like a father and mother among their children, -seeing they are far above all the other hills.” - -But to proceed. Coarsely and comically dressed as we were, we made a -very unique appearance as we paraded into the office of the hotel. I met -a few acquaintances there, to whom I introduced my comrades; and in a -short time each one was spinning a mountain legend to a crowd of -delighted listeners. In due time, I ushered them into the dining-hall, -where a scene was enacted which can be better imagined than described; -the fellows were completely out of their element, and it was laughable -in the extreme to see them stare, and hear them talk, as the servants -bountifully helped them to the turtle-soup, ice-cream, charlotte-russe, -and other fashionable dainties. - -About the middle of the afternoon we commenced descending the beautiful -mountain road leading towards the Hudson. In the morning there had been -a heavy shower, and a thousand happy rills attended us with a song. A -delightful nook on this road is pointed out as the identical spot where -Rip Van Winkle slept away a score of his life. I reached home in time to -spend the twilight hour in my own room, musing upon the much-loved -mountains. I had but one companion, and that was a whip-poor-will, which -nightly comes to my window-sill, as if to tell me a tale of its love, or -of the woods and solitary wilderness. - -But the most unique and interesting of my fishing adventures remains to -be described. I had heard a great deal about the good fishing afforded -by the lake already mentioned, and I desired to visit it, and spend a -night upon its shore. Having spoken to my friend Hummel, and invited a -neighbour to accompany us, whom the people have named “White Yankee,” -the noontide hour of a pleasant day found us on our winding march; and -such a grotesque appearance as we made, was exceedingly amusing. The -group was mostly animated when climbing the steep and rocky ravines -which we were compelled to pass through. There was Peter, “long, lank -and lean,” and wild in his attire and countenance as an eagle of the -wilderness, with an axe in his hand, and a huge knapsack on his back, -containing our provisions and utensils for cooking. Next to him followed -White Yankee, with three blankets lashed upon his back, a slouched white -hat on his head, and nearly a half pound of tobacco in his mouth. -Crooked legged withal, and somewhat sickly was this individual, and -being wholly unaccustomed to this kind of business, he went along -groaning, grunting, and fuming, as if he was “sent for, and _didn’t -want_ to come.” In the rear trotted along your humble friend, with a gun -upon his shoulder, a powder-horn and shot-pouch at his side, cow-hide -boots on his feet, and a cap on his head—his beard half an inch long, -and his flowing hair streaming in the wind. - -We reached our place of destination about five o’clock, and halted under -a large impending rock, which was to be our sleeping place. We were -emphatically under the “shadow of a rock, in a weary land.” Our first -business was to build a fire, which we did with about one cord of green -and dry wood. Eighty poles were then cut, to which we fastened our -lines. The old canoe in the lake was bailed out, and having baited our -hooks with the minnows we had brought with us, we planted the poles in -about seven feet water, all around the lake shore. We then prepared and -ate our supper, and awaited the coming on of night. During this -interval, I learned the following particulars concerning the lake. It -was originally discovered by a hunter, named Shew. It is estimated to -cover about fifty acres, and in the centre, to be more than two hundred -feet in depth. For my part, however, I do not believe it contains over -five acres, though the mountains which tower on every side but one, are -calculated to deceive the eye; but, as to its depth, I could easily -fancy it to be bottomless, for the water is remarkably dark. To the -number of trout in this lake there seems to be no end. It is supposed -they reach it, when small, through Sweetwater Brook, when they increase -in size, and multiply. It also abounds in green and scarlet lizards, -which are a serious drawback to the pleasures of the fastidious angler. -I asked Peter many questions concerning his adventures about the lake, -and he told me that the number of “harmless murders” he had committed -here was about three hundred. In one day, he shot three deer; at another -time, a dozen turkeys; at another, twenty ducks; one night, an old bear; -and again, half a dozen coons; and, on one occasion, annihilated a den -of thirty-seven rattlesnakes. - -At nine o’clock, we lighted a torch and went to examine our lines; and -it was my good fortune to haul out not less than forty-one trout, -weighing from one to two pounds a-piece. These, we put into a spring of -very cold water, which bubbled from the earth a few paces from our -camping place, and then retired to repose. Branches of hemlock -constituted our couch, and my station was between Peter and White -Yankee. Little did I dream, when I first saw these two bipeds, that I -should ever have them for my bed-fellows; but who can tell what shall be -on the morrow? My friends were in the land of Nod in less than a dozen -minutes after we had retired; but it was hard for me to go to sleep in -the midst of the wild scene which surrounded me. There I lay, flat on my -back, a stone and my cap for a pillow, and wrapt in a blanket, with my -nose exposed to the chilly night air. And what pictures did my fancy -conjure up, as I looked upon the army of trunks around me, glistening in -the fire-light! One moment they were a troop of Indians from the -spirit-land, come to revisit again the hunting grounds of their fathers, -and weeping because the white man had desecrated their soil; and again, -I fancied them to be a congress of wild animals, assembled to try, -execute, and devour us, for the depredations our fellows had committed -upon their kind during the last one hundred years. By and by, a star -peered upon me from between the branches of a tree, and my thoughts -ascended heavenward. And now, my eyes twinkled and blinked in sympathy -with the star, and I was a dreamer. - -An hour after the witching time of night, I was startled from my sleep -by a bellowing halloo from Peter, who said it was time to examine the -lines again. Had you heard the echoes which were then awakened, far and -near, you would have thought yourself in enchanted land. But there were -living answers to that shout, for a frightened fox began to bark, an owl -commenced its horrible hootings, a partridge its drumming, and a wolf -its howl. There was not a breeze stirring, and - - “Nought was seen, in the vault on high, - But the moon, and the stars, and a cloudless sky, - And a river of white in the welkin blue.” - -Peter and Yankee went out to haul in the trout, but I remained on shore -to attempt a drawing, by moonlight, of the lake before me. The opposite -side of the mountain, with its dark tangled forest, was perfectly -mirrored in the waters below, the whole seeming as solid and variegated -as a tablet of Egyptian marble. The canoe with its inmates noiselessly -pursued its way, making the stillness more profound. In the water at my -feet I distinctly saw lizards sporting about, and I could not but wonder -why such reptiles were ever created. I thought, with the Ancient -Mariner, - - “A thousand slimy things lived on, - And so did I.” - -Again did we retire to rest, slumbering until the break of day. We then -partook of a substantial trout breakfast, gathered up our plunder, and -with about one hundred handsome trout started for home. - -The accidents we met with during the night were harmless, though -somewhat ridiculous. A paper of matches, which Peter carried in his -breeches’ pocket, took fire, and gave him such a scorching that he -bellowed lustily. White Yankee, in his restless slumber, rolled so near -our watch-fire, that he barely escaped with one corner of his blanket, -the remainder having been consumed. As for me, I only fell into the -water among the lizards, while endeavouring to reach the end of a log, -which extended into the lake. In descending the mountain, we shot three -partridges, and confoundedly frightened a fox; and by the middle of the -afternoon, were quietly pursuing our usual avocations among our -fellow-men of the lower world. - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - -A Spring Day—The Sky—The Mountains—The Streams—The Woods—The Open -Fields—Domestic Animals—Poetry—The Poultry-yard. - - Plauterkill Clove. May. - -May is near its close, and I am still in the valley of the Hudson. -Spring is indeed come again, and this, for the present year, has been -its day of triumph. The moment I awoke at dawn, this morning, I knew by -intuition that it would be so, and I bounded from my couch like a -startled deer, impatient for the cool delicious air. Spring is upon the -earth once more, and a new life is given me of enjoyment and hope. The -year is in its childhood, and my heart clings to it with a sympathy, -that I feel must be immortal and divine. What I have done to-day, I -cannot tell: I only know that my body has been tremulous with feeling, -and my eyes almost blinded with seeing. Every hour has been fraught with -a new emotion of delight, and presented to my vision numberless pictures -of surpassing beauty. I have held communion with the sky, the mountains, -the streams, the woods, and the fields; and these, if you please, shall -be themes of my present chapter. - -The sky! It has been of as deep an azure, and as serene, as ever -canopied the world. It seemed as if you could look through it, into the -illimitable home of the angels—could almost behold the glory which -surrounds the Invisible. Three clouds alone have attracted my attention. -One was the offspring of the dawn, and encircled by a rim of gold; the -next was the daughter of noon, and white as the driven snow; and the -last of evening, and robed in deepest crimson. Wayward and coquettish -creatures were these clouds! Their chief ambition seemed to be to -display their charms to the best advantage, as if conscious of their -loveliness; and, at sunset, when the light lay pillowed on the -mountains, it was a joyous sight to see them, side by side, like three -sweet sisters, as they were, going home. Each one was anxious to favour -the world with its own last smile, and by their changing places so -often, you would have thought they were all unwilling to depart. But -they were the ministers of the Sun, and he would not tarry for them; -and, while he beckoned them to follow on, the Evening Star took his -station in the sky, and bade them depart: and when I looked again, they -were gone. Never more, thought I, will those clouds be a source of joy -to a human heart. And in this respect, also, they seemed to me to be the -emblems of those beautiful but thoughtless maidens, who spend the flower -of youth trifling with the affections of all whom they have the power to -fascinate. - -The mountains! In honour of the season which has just clothed them in -the richest green, they have this day displayed every one of their -varied and interesting charms. At noon, as I lay under the shadow of a -tree, watching them “with a look made of all sweet accord,” my face was -freshened by a breeze. It appeared to come from the summit of South -Peak, and to be the voice of the Catskills I listened, and these were -the words which echoed through my ear: - -“Of all the seasons, oh, Spring! thou art the most beloved, and to us, -always the most welcome. Joy and gladness ever attend thy coming, for we -know that the ‘winter is past, the rains are over and gone, the time of -the singing of birds is come, and the voice of the turtle is heard in -our land.’ And we know, too, that from thy hands flow unnumbered -blessings. Thou softenest the earth, that the husbandman may sow his -seed, which shall yield him a thousand fold at the harvest. Thou -releasest the rivers from their icy fetters, that the wings of commerce -may be unfurled once more. Thou givest food to the cattle upon a -thousand hills, that they, in their turn, may furnish man with necessary -food, and also assist him in his domestic labours. Thou coverest the -earth with a garniture of freshest loveliness, that the senses of man -may be gratified, and his thoughts directed to Him who hath created all -things, and pronounced them good. And, finally, thou art the hope of the -year, and thine admonitions, which are of the future, have a tendency to -emancipate the thoughts of man from this world, and the troubles which -may surround him here, and fix them upon that clime where an eternal -spring abides.” “The voice in my dreaming ear melted away,” and I heard -the roaring of the streams as they fretted their way down the rocky -steeps. - -The streams! Such “trumpets” as they have blown to-day, would, I am -afraid, have caused Mr. Wordsworth to exclaim: - - “The cataracts—_make a devilish noise up yonder_.” - -The fact is, as “all the earth is gay,” and all the springs among the -mountains are “giving themselves up to jollity,” the streams are full to -overflowing, and rush along with a “vindictive looseness,” because of -the burden they have to bear. The falls and cascades, which make such -exquisite pictures in the summer months, are now fearful to behold, for, -in their anger, every now and then they toss some giant tree into an -abyss of foam, which makes one tremble with fear. But after the streams -have left the mountains, and are running through the bottom-lands, they -still appear to be displeased with something, and at every turn they -take, delve into the “bowels of the harmless earth,” making it dangerous -for the angler to approach too near, but rendering the haunt of the -trout more spacious and commodious than before. The streams are about -the only things I cannot praise to-day, and I hope it will not rain for -a month to come, if this is the way they intend to act whenever we have -a number of delightful showers. - -The woods! A goodly portion of the day have I spent in one of their most -secret recesses. I went with Shakspeare under my arm, but could not -read, any more than fly, so I stretched myself at full length on a huge -log, and kept a sharp look-out for anything that might send me a waking -dream. The brotherhood of trees clustered around me, laden with leaves -just bursting into full maturity, and possessing that delicate and -peculiar green, which lasts but a single day, and never returns. A -fitful breeze swept through them, so that ever and anon I fancied a -gushing fountain to be near, or that a company of ladies fair were come -to visit me, and that I heard the rustle of their silken kirtles. And -now my eyes rested on a tree, that was entirely leafless, and almost -without a limb. Instead of grass at its foot, was a heap of dry leaves, -and not a bush or vine grew anywhere near it, but around its neighbours -they grew in great abundance. It seemed branded with a curse, alone, -forsaken of its own, and despised by all. Can this, thought I, be an -emblem of any human being? Strange that it should be, but it is -nevertheless too true. Only one week ago I saw a poor miserable maniac -bound hand and foot, driven from “home and all its treasures,” and -carried to a dark, damp prison-house in a neighbouring town. I can be -reconciled to the mystery of a poisonous reptile’s existence, but it is -very hard to understand for what good purpose a maniac is created. -Another object I noticed, was a little tree about five feet high, -completely covered with blossoms of a gaudy hue. At first, I tried to -gather something poetical out of this thing, but with all my endeavours, -I could not. It caused me a real hearty laugh as the idea expanded, for -it reminded me of a certain maiden lady of my acquaintance, who is old, -stunted, very fond of tall men and always strutting round under a weight -of jewelry. But oh! what beautiful flowers did I notice in that shady -grove, whose whispering thrilled me with delight! Their names? I cannot -tell them to you, fair reader; they ought to have no names, any more -than a cloud or a foam-bell on the river. Some were blue, some white, -some purple, and some scarlet. There were little parties of them on -every side; and as the wind swayed their delicate stems, I could not but -fancy they were living creatures, the personified thoughts perhaps of -happy and innocent children. Occasionally, too, I noticed a sort of -straggler peeping at me from beside a hillock of moss, or from under the -branches of a fallen tree, as if surprised at my temerity in entering -its secluded haunt. Birds also were around me in that greenwood -sanctuary, singing their hymns of praise to the Father of mercies for -the return of spring. The nests of the females being already built, they -had nothing to do but be happy, anticipating the time when they -themselves should be the “dealers-out of some small blessings” to their -helpless broods. As to their mates, they were about as independent, -restless and noisy as might be expected, very much as any rational man -would be who was the husband of a young and beautiful wife. - -But the open fields to-day have superabounded with pictures to please -and instruct the mind. I know not where to begin to describe them. Shall -it be at the very threshold of our farm-house? Well, then, only look at -those lilac trees in the garden, actually top-heavy with purple and -white flowering pyramids. The old farmer has just cut a number of large -branches, and given them to his little daughter to carry to her mother, -who will distribute them between the mantel-piece, the table, and the -fire-place of the family sitting-room. But what ambrosial odour is that -which now salutes the senses? It comes not from the variegated corner of -the garden, where the tulip, the violet, the hyacinth, the blue bell, -and the lily of the valley are vieing to outstrip each other in their -attire; nor, from that clover-covered lawn, besprinkled with -butter-cups, strawberry blossoms, and honey-suckles; but from the -orchard, every one of whose trees are completely covered with snow-white -blossoms. And from their numberless petals emanates the murmur of bees, -as they are busy extracting the luscious honey. - -What an abundance of fruit—of apples, cherries, peaches and pears, do -these sweet blossoms promise! But next week there may be a bitter frost; -and this is the lesson which my heart learns. Now that I am in the -spring-time of life, my hopes, in number and beauty, are like the -blossoms of trees, and I know not but they may even on the morrow be -withered by the chilly breath of the grave. But let us loiter farther -on. The western slope of this gentle hill is equally divided, and of two -different shades of green; one is planted with rye, and the other with -wheat. The eastern slope of the hill has lately been loosened by the -plough, and is of a sombre colour, but to my eye not less pleasing than -the green. And this view is enlivened with figures besides—for a farmer -and two boys are planting corn, the latter opening the bed with their -hoes, and the former dropping in the seed (which he carries in a bag -slung at his side), and covering it with his foot. And now, fluttering -over their heads is a roguish bob-o-link, scolding about something in -their wake; at a respectful distance, and hopping along the ground are a -number of robins; and on the nearest fence a meadow-lark and bluebird -are “holding on for a bite.” But there is no end to these rural -pictures, so I will just take my reader into this neighbouring -meadow-pasture, thence into the poultry-yard at home, and conclude my -present rhapsody. - -Here we are, then, in the midst of various domestic animals. Yonder, a -couple of black colts are chasing each other in play, while their -venerable mother (for they are brothers, though not twins) is standing a -little way off, watching their antics, and twisting about her ears, as -she remembers the happy days of her own colthood. Here are some half -dozen hearty cows, lying down and grazing, each one with a “pledge of -affection” sporting about her. There are six or eight oxen, eating away -as fast as they can, while one, who seems to be a sentinel, occasionally -rolls up his eye to see if the farmer is coming to renew his song of -“haw! gee! gee! haw!” Under the shadow of that old oak is a flock of -sheep, with their lambs bounding beside them, as to the “tabor’s sound;” -but to me there comes no “thought of grief” at the sight, wherein I must -be suffered to disagree with Wordsworth, to whom I have already alluded -once or twice, and whose celebrated and most wonderful Ode has been -echoing in my heart all the day long. Some of the lines in it are -appropriate to the day, the charms of which I am attempting to make you -feel, reader, and you will oblige me by reading and inwardly digesting, -the following fragments of a whole, and yet really complete poems:— - - “The sunshine is a glorious birth” - - - “The winds come to me from the fields of sleep.” - - - “And the babe leaps up on his mother’s arm.” - - - “Earth fills her lap with pleasures of her own.” - - - “Full soon thy soul shalt have her earthly freight, - And custom lie upon thee with a weight, - Heavy as fate, and deep almost as life.” - - - “O joy, that in our embers - Is something that doth live, - That nature yet remembers - What was so fugitive.” - - - “To me, the meanest flower that blows, can give - Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears.” - -Strange, that a rational man, after dwelling upon such poetry, should be -willing to go into a poultry-yard. But why not? I would rather do this -willingly than be compelled, as I have been, and may be again, to hear a -man say, after reading to him Wordsworth’s great Ode—“Why! of what use -is such stuff? what does it prove? will it furnish a man with bread and -butter? will it make the pot boil?” The people of the poultry-yard have -been in such glee to-day, and contributed so much to the gladness of the -day, that I must pay them a passing tribute. - -In the first place, our old gobbler, with his retinue of turkey wives, -has been on the point of bursting with pride ever since sunrise. If the -Grand Sultan of Turkey (who must be the father of all turkeys) cuts the -same kind of capers in the presence of his hundred ladies, Turkey must -be a great country for lean people to “laugh and grow fat in.” Our -gobbler is a feathered personification of Jack Falstaff, possessing his -prominent trait of cowardice to perfection. I flourished a red -handkerchief in his face this morning, and, by the way he strutted round -and gobbled, you would have thought he was going to devour you. About -ten minutes after this, I threw down a handful of corn, which was -intended for his particular palate. While he was busy picking it up, a -certain cock stepped alongside and commenced picking too: the intruder, -having got in the way of the gobbler, was suddenly pushed aside; -whereupon the gentleman with spurs chuckled and “showed fight,” but the -gobbler for a moment heeded him not. This the cock could not bear, so he -pounced upon his enemy, and whipped him without mercy, until the coward -and fool ran away, with his long train of affectionate wives following -behind. - -The cocks, hens and chickens, which have figured in the yard to-day, -would more than number a hundred, and such cackling, crowing, chuckling, -and crying as they have made, was anything but a “concord of sweet -sounds.” But the creatures have been happy, and it was therefore a -pleasure to look at them. A young hen this morning made her first -appearance with a large brood of chickens, yellow as gold, and this -caused quite a sensation among the feathered husbands generally. The -mother, as she rambled about, seemed to say by her pompous air, to her -daughterless friends—“ar’nt they beautiful? don’t you wish you had a -few?” It was also very funny to see with what looks of astonishment the -youthful cocks surveyed these “infant phenomenons.” As to our ducks, and -geese, and guinea hens, they have minded their business pretty well—the -two former paddling about the creek and mud-puddles, and the latter -“between meals” roaming at large through the orchard and garden, -altogether the most beautiful and rational of the feathered tribes. - -A mountaineer, who is to take this queer record to the post-office, is -waiting for me, and I must close,—hoping that the country pictures I -have endeavoured to sketch may have a tendency to make my reader feel a -portion of that joy, which has characterized this delightful Spring Day. - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - -A corn-planting Bee. - - Plauterkill Clove. May. - -The people who inhabit that section of country lying between the -Catskill Mountains and the Hudson River, are undoubtedly the legitimate -descendants of the far-famed Rip Van Winkle. Dutch blood floweth in -their veins, and their names, appearance, manners, are all Dutch, and -Dutch only. The majority of them are engaged in tilling the soil, and as -they seem to be satisfied with a bare competency, the peacefulness of -their lives is only equalled by their ignorance of books, and the world -at large. The height of their ambition is to enjoy a frolic, and what -civilized people understand by that term, they designate a Bee. Not only -have they their wedding and funeral Bees, but they commemorate their -agricultural labours with a Bee, and of these, the Corn-Planting Bee, -which I am about to describe, is a fair specimen. - -A certain old Dutchman of my acquaintance had so long neglected the -field where he intended to plant his corn, that he found it necessary to -retrieve his reputation by getting up a Bee. He therefore immediately -issued his verbal invitations, and at two o’clock on the appointed day, -about seventy of his neighbours, including men and women, made their -appearance at his dwelling, each one of them furnished with a hoe and a -small bag to carry the seed. After supplying his guests with all they -wanted in the way of spiritual drink, my friend gave the signal, and -shouldering a large hoe started off for the field of action, closely -followed by his neighbours, who fell to work lustily. The field was -large, but as the planters were numerous, it was entirely planted at -least two hours before sunset, when the party was disbanded, with the -express understanding resting upon their minds that they should invite -their children to the dance, which was to take place in the evening at -the Bee-giver’s residence. - -The house of my farmer friend having been originally built for a tavern, -it happened to contain a large ball-room, and on this occasion it was -stripped of its beds and bedding, and the walls thereof decked from top -to bottom with green branches and an occasional tallow candle, and -conspicuous at one end of the hall was a refreshment establishment, well -supplied with pies, gingerbread, molasses, candy and cigars, with an -abundance of coloured alcohols. - -The number of young men and women who came together on the occasion was -about one hundred, and while they were trimming themselves for the -approaching dance, the musician, a huge, long-legged and bony Dutchman, -was tuning a rusty fiddle. The thirty minutes occupied by him in this -interesting business were employed by the male portion of the guests in -“wetting their whistles.” The dresses worn on the occasion were -eminently rustic and unique. Those of the gentlemen, for the most part, -were made of a coarse grey cloth, similar to that worn by the residents -on Blackwell’s Island, while the ladies were arrayed in white cotton, -trimmed with a narrow scarlet ribbon. Pumps being out of vogue, cow-hide -boots were worn by the former, and calf brogans by the latter. - -All things being now ready, a terribly loud shriek came from the poor -little fiddle, and the clattering of heels commenced, shaking the -building to its very foundation. “On with the dance, let joy be -unconfined,” seemed to be the motto of all present; and from the start, -there seemed to be a strife between the male and the female dancers, as -to who should leap the highest and make the most noise. Desperate were -the efforts of the musician, as he toiled away upon his instrument, -keeping discord with his heels; and every unusual wail of the fiddle was -the forerunner of a profuse perspiration, which came rolling off of the -fiddler’s face to the floor. And then the joyous delirium of the -musician was communicated to the dancers, and as the dance proceeded, -their efforts became still more desperate; the women wildly threw back -their hair, and many of the men took off their coats, and rolled up -their shirt-sleeves for the purpose of keeping cool. In spite of every -effort, however, the faces of the dancers became quite red with the -excitement, and the hall was filled with a kind of heated fog, in which -the first “break-down” of the evening concluded. - -Then followed the refreshment scene. The men drank whisky and smoked -cigars, while the women feasted upon mince-pies, drank small beer, and -sucked molasses candy. Some of the smaller men, or boys, who were too -lazy to dance, sneaked off into an out-of-the-way room for the purpose -of pitching pennies; while a few couples, who were victims to the tender -passion, retired to some cozy nook, to bask unobserved in each other’s -smiles. - -But now the screeching fiddle is again heard above the murmur of talking -and laughing voices, and another rush is made for the sanded floor. -Another dance is there enjoyed, differing from the one already described -only in its increased extravagance. After sawing away for a long time, -as if for dear life, the musician is politely requested to play a new -tune. Promptly does he assent to the proposition, but having started on -a fresh key, he soon falls into the identical strain, which had kept him -busy for the previous hour; so that the philosophic listener is -compelled to conclude that the fiddler either cannot play more than one -tune, or that he has a particular passion for the monotonous and -nameless one to which he so closely clings. And thus, with many -indescribable variations does the ball continue throughout the entire -night. - -I did not venture to trip the “light fantastic toe” on the occasion in -question, but my enjoyment as a calm spectator was very amusing and -decidedly original. Never before had I seen a greater amount of labour -performed by men and women in the same time. I left this interesting -assembly about midnight, fully satisfied with what I had seen and heard; -but I was afterwards told that I missed more than “half the fun.” - -When the music was loudest, so it appears, and the frenzy of the dance -at its climax, a select party of Dutch gentlemen were suddenly seized -with an appetite for some more substantial food than had yet been given -them. They held a consultation on the important subject, and finally -agreed to ransack the garret and cellar of their host for the purpose of -satisfying their natural desires. In the former place they found a good -supply of dried beef, and in the latter, a few loaves of bread and a jar -of rich cream, upon which they regaled themselves without favour, but -with some fear. The giver of the Bee subsequently discovered what had -been done, and though somewhat more than “three sheets in the wind” -slyly sent for a pair of constables, who soon made their appearance, and -arrested the thieving guests, who were held to bail in the sum of fifty -dollars each. I was also informed that the dance was kept up until six -o’clock in the morning, and that the appearance of my friend’s -establishment, and the condition of his guests at seven o’clock, was -ridiculous in the extreme. A small proportion of the Bee-party only had -succeeded in starting for home, so that the number who, from excess of -drinking and undue fatigue had retired to repose, was not far from three -score and ten. The sleeping accommodation of the host was limited, and -the consequence was, that his guests had to shift for themselves, as -they best could. The floors of every room in the house, including the -pantries, were literally covered with men and women; some of them -moaning with a severe head-ache, some breathing audibly in a deep sleep, -and others snoring in the loudest and most approved style. By twelve -o’clock, the interesting company had stolen off to their several homes, -and the Corn-Planting Bee, among the Catskills, was at an end. - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - -Lake Horicon—Sketches of its scenery—Information for -anglers—Sabbath-day Point—War memories—The Turret City—Death -of a deer—Roger’s Slide—Diamond Island—The snake-charmer—Snake -stories—Night on the Horicon. - - Lyman’s Tavern. June. - -If circumstances alone could make one poetical, then might you expect -from me on this occasion a paper of rare excellence and beauty. My -sketch-book is my desk, my canopy from the sunshine an elm-tree, the -carpet under my feet a rich green sprinkled with flowers, the music in -my ear of singing birds, and the prospect before me, north, east, and -south, the tranquil bosom of Lake George, with its islands and -surrounding mountains, whose waters, directly at my side, are alive with -many kinds of fish, sporting together on a bed of sand. Yes, the -far-famed Lake George is my subject, but in what I write I shall not use -that title; for I do not like the idea of christening what belongs to us -with the name of an English monarch, however much his memory deserves to -be respected. Shall it be Lake St. Sacrament, then? No! for that was -given to it by the Pope and the French nation. Horicon—a musical and -appropriate word, meaning pure water, and given it by the poor Indian—is -the name which rightfully belongs to the lake which is now my theme. - -Lake Horicon is one of the few objects in nature which did not -disappoint me after reading the descriptions of travellers. I verily -believe, that in point of mere beauty, it has not its superior in the -world. Its length is thirty-four miles, and its width from two to four. -Its islands number about three hundred, and vary from ten feet to a mile -in length; a great many of them are situated in the centre of the lake, -at a place called the Narrows. It is completely surrounded with -mountains, the most prominent of which are, Black Mountain, on the east -of the Narrows, Tongue Mountain, directly opposite, and French Mountain, -at the southern extremity. The first is the most lofty, and remarkable -for its wildness, and the superb prospect therefrom; the second is also -wild and uninhabited, but distinguished for its dens of rattlesnakes; -and the latter is somewhat cultivated, but memorable for having been the -camping-ground of the French during the Revolutionary war. The whole -eastern border is yet a comparative wilderness; but along the western -shore are some respectable farms, and a good coach-road from Caldwell to -Ticonderoga, which affords many admirable views of the sky-blue lake. -There are three public-houses here which I can recommend: the Lake -House, for those who are fond of company; Lyman’s Tavern, for the hunter -of scenery and lover of quiet; and Garfield’s House, for the fisherman. -A nice little steam-boat, commanded by a gentleman, passes through the -Lake every morning and evening (excepting Sundays), and though a -convenient affair to the traveller, it is an eye-sore to the admirer of -the wilderness. - -Identified with this boat is an eccentric man, named “Old Dick,” who -amuses the tourist, and collects an occasional shilling by exhibiting a -number of rattlesnakes. When, in addition to all these things, it is -remembered that Horicon is the centre of a region made classic by the -exploits of civilized and savage warfare, it can safely be pronounced -one of the most interesting portions of our country for the summer -tourist to visit. I have looked upon it from many a peak, whence might -be seen almost every rood of its shore. I have sailed into every one of -its bays; and, like the pearl-diver, have repeatedly descended into its -cold blue chambers; so that I have learned to love it as a faithful and -well-tried friend. Since the day of my arrival here, I have kept a -journal of my adventures; and, as a memorial of Horicon, I will extract -therefrom and embody in this chapter the following passages. - -[Illustration: LAKE HORICON.] - -Six pencil sketches have I executed upon the Lake to-day. One of them -was a view of the distant mountains, whose various outlines were -concentrated at one point, and whose colour was of that delicate dreamy -blue, created by a sunlight atmosphere, with the sun directly in front. -In the middle distance was a flock of islands, with a sail boat in their -midst, and in the foreground a cluster of rocks, surmounted by a single -cedar, which seemed to be the sentinel of a fortress. Another was of the -ruins of Fort George, with a background of dark green mountains, which -was made quite desolate by a flock of sheep sleeping in one of its shady -moats. Another was of a rowing race between two rival fishermen, at the -time when they were only a dozen rods from the goal, and when every -nerve of their aged frames was strained to the utmost. Another was of a -neat log-cabin on a quiet lawn near the water, at whose threshold a -couple of ragged but beautiful children were playing with a large dog, -while from the chimney of the house ascended the blue smoke with a -thousand fantastic evolutions. Another was of a huge pine tree, which -towered conspicuously above its kindred on the mountain side, and seemed -to me an appropriate symbol of Webster in the midst of a vast concourse -of his fellow-men. And the last was of a thunder-storm, driven away from -a mountain top by the mild radiance of a rainbow, which partly encircled -Horicon in a loving embrace. - - -I have been fishing to-day, and, while enduring some poor sport, indited -in my mind the following information, for the benefit of my piscatorial -friends. The days of trout-fishing in Lake Horicon are nearly at an end. -A few years ago it abounded in salmon-trout, which were frequently -caught weighing twenty pounds, but their average weight at the present -is not more than one pound and a half, and they are scarce even at that. -In taking them you first have to obtain a sufficient quantity of sapling -bark to reach the bottom in sixty feet of water, to one end of which -must be fastened a stone, and to the other a stick of wood, which -designates your fishing ground, and is called a buoy. A variety of more -common fish are then caught, such as suckers, perch, and eels, which are -cut up and deposited, some half a peck at a time, in the vicinity of the -buoy. In a few days, the trout will begin to assemble, and so long as -you keep them well fed, a brace of them may be captured at any time -during the summer. But the fact is, this is only another way for “paying -too dear for the whistle.” The best angling, after all, is for the -common brook trout, which is a bolder biting fish, and better for the -table than the salmon-trout. The cause of the great decrease in the -large trout of this lake is this—in the autumn, when they have sought -the shores for the purpose of spawning, the neighbouring barbarians have -been accustomed to spear them by torch-light; and if the heartless -business does not soon cease, the result will be, that in a few years -they will be extinct. There are two other kinds of trout in the lake, -however, which yet afford good sport—the silver-trout, caught in the -summer, and the fall-trout. But the black-bass, upon the whole, is now -mostly valued by the fisherman. They are in their prime in the summer -months. They vary from one to five pounds in weight; are taken by -trolling and with a drop line, and afford fine sport. Their haunts are -along the rocky shores, and it is often the case that on a still day you -may see them from your boat swimming about in herds, where the water is -twenty feet deep. They have a queer fashion when hooked, of leaping out -of the water for the purpose of getting clear, and it is seldom that a -novice in the gentle art can keep them from succeeding. But alas, their -numbers also are fast diminishing, by the same means and the same hands -that have killed the trout. My advice to those who come here exclusively -for the purpose of fishing is, to continue their journey to the sources -of the Hudson, Schroon Lake, Long Lake, and Lake Pleasant, in whose -several waters there seems to be no end to every variety of trout, and -where may be found much wild and beautiful scenery. The angler of the -present day will be disappointed in Lake Horicon. - - -When issuing from the Narrows on your way down the Horicon, the most -attractive object, next to the mountains, is a strip of low sandy land -extending into the lake, called Sabbath Day Point. It was so christened -by Abercrombie, who encamped and spent the Sabbath there, when on his -way to Ticonderoga, where he was so sadly defeated. I look upon it as -one of the most enchanting places in the world; but the pageant with -which it is associated was not only enchanting, and beautiful, but -magnificent. Only look upon the picture. - -It is the sunset hour, and before us, far up in the upper air, and -companion of the evening star and a host of glowing clouds, rises the -majestic form of Black Mountain, enveloped in a mantle of rosy -atmosphere. The bosom of the Lake is without a ripple, and every cliff, -ravine, and island, has its counterpart in the pure waters. A blast of -martial music from drums, fifes, bagpipes, and bugle horns, now falls -upon the ear, and the immense procession comes in sight; one thousand -and thirty-five battaux, containing an army of seventeen thousand souls, -headed by the brave Abercrombie and the red cross of England—the scarlet -uniforms and glistening bayonets forming a line of light against the -darker back-ground of the mountain. And behind a log in the foreground -is a crouching Indian runner, who, with the speed of a hawk, will carry -the tidings to the French nation that an army is coming, “numerous as -the leaves upon the trees.” Far from the strange scene fly the -affrighted denizens of mountain and wave—while thousands of human hearts -are beating happily at the prospect of victory, whose bodies in a few -hours will be food for the raven on the plains of Ticonderoga. - - -A goodly portion of this day have I been musing upon the olden times, -while rambling about Fort George, and Fort William Henry. Long and with -peculiar interest did I linger about the spot near the latter, where -were cruelly massacred the followers of Monroe, at which time Montcalm -linked his name to the title of a heartless Frenchman, and the name of -Webb became identified with all that is justly despised by the human -heart. I profess myself to be an enemy to wrong and outrage of every -kind, and yet a lover and defender of the Indian race; but when I picked -up one after another the flinty heads of arrows, which were mementos of -an awful butchery, my spirit revolted against the Red man, and for a -moment I felt a desire to condemn him. Yes, I will condemn that -particular band of murderers, but I cannot but defend the race. - -Cruel and treacherous they were, I will allow, but do we forget the -treatment they ever met with from the white man? The most righteous of -battles have ever been fought for the sake of sires and wives and -children, and for what else did the poor Indian fight, when driven from -the home of his youth into an unknown wilderness, to become there-after -a by-word and a reproach among the nations? “Indians,” said we, “we -would have your lands; and if you will not be satisfied with the gewgaws -we proffer, our powder and balls will teach you that power is but -another name for right.” And this is the principle that has guided the -white man ever since in his warfare against the aborigines of our -country. I cannot believe that we shall ever be a happy and prosperous -people, until the King of Kings shall have forgiven us for having, with -a yoke of tyranny, almost annihilated a hundred nations. - - -A portion of this afternoon I whiled away on a little island, which -attracted my attention by its charming variety of foliage. It is not -more than one hundred feet across at the widest part, and is encircled -by a yellow sand-bank, and shielded by a regiment of variegated rocks. -But what could I find there to interest me, it may be inquired. My -answer is this. That island, hidden in one of the bays of Horicon, is an -Insect city, and more populous than was Rome in the days of her glory. -There the honey-bee has his oaken tower, the wasp and humble-bee their -grassy nests, the spider his den, the butterfly his hammock, the -grasshopper his domain, the beetle and cricket and hornet their decayed -stump, and the toiling ant her palace of sand. There they were born, -there they flourish and multiply, and there they die, symbolizing the -career and destiny of man. I was a “distinguished stranger” in that -city, and I must confess that it gratified my ambition to be welcomed -with such manifestations of regard as the inhabitants thought proper to -bestow. My approach was heralded by the song of a kingly bee; and when I -had thrown myself upon a mossy bank, multitudes of people gathered -round, and, with their eyes intently fixed upon me, stood still, and let -“expressive silence muse my praise.” To the “natives” I was emphatically -a source of astonishment; and as I wished to gather instruction from the -event, I wondered in my heart whether I should be a _happier_ man if my -presence in a human city should create a kindred excitement. At any -rate, it would be a “great excitement on a small capital.” - - -While quietly eating my dinner this noon in the shady recess of an -island near Black Mountain, I was startled by the yell of a pack of -hounds coming down one of its ravines. I knew that the chase was after a -deer, so I waited in breathless anxiety for his appearance. Five minutes -had hardly elapsed before I discovered a noble buck at bay on the -extreme summit of a bluff which extended into the lake. There were five -dogs yelping about him, but the “antlered monarch” fought them like a -hero. His hoof was the most dangerous weapon he could wield, and it -seemed to me that the earth actually trembled every time that he struck -at his enemies. Presently, to my great joy, one of the hounds was -killed, and another so disabled, that he retired from the contest. But -the hunters made their appearance, and I knew that the scene would soon -come to a tragic close. And when the buck beheld them, I could not but -believe that over his face a “tablet of agonizing thoughts was traced,” -for he fell upon his knees, then made a sudden wheel, and with a -frightful bound, as a ball passed through his heart, cleared the rock -and fell into the lake below. The waters closed over him; and methought -that the waves of Horicon and the leaves of the forest murmured a -requiem above the grave of the wilderness king. I turned away with a -tear in my eye, and partly resolved that I would never again have a dog -for my friend, or respect the character of a hunter; but then I looked -into the crystal waters of the lake, and thought of the beam in my own -eye, and stood convicted of a kindred cruelty. - - -One of the most singular precipices overlooking Horicon is about five -miles from the outlet, and known as Rogers’ Slide. It is some four -hundred feet high, and at one point not a fissure or sprig can be -discerned to mar the polished surface of the rock till it reaches the -water. Once on a time, in the winter, the said Rogers was pursued by a -band of Indians to this spot, where, after throwing down his knapsack, -he carefully retraced the steps of his snow-shoes for a short distance, -and descending the hill by a circuitous route, continued his course -across the frozen lake. The Indians, on coming to the jumping-off-place, -discovered their enemy on the icy plain; but when they saw the neglected -knapsack below, and no signs of returning footsteps where they stood, -they thought the devil must be in the man, and gave up the pursuit. - - -The most famous, and one of the most beautiful islands in this lake, is -Diamond Island, so called, from the fact that it abounds in crystallized -quartz. It is half a mile in length, but the last place in the world -which would be thought of as the scene of a battle. It is memorable for -the attack made by the Americans on the British, who had a garrison -there during the Revolution. The American detachment was commanded by -Colonel Brown, and being elated with his recent triumphs on Lake -Champlain, he resolved to attack Diamond Island. The battle was bloody, -and the British fought like brave men, “long and well;” the Americans -were defeated, and this misfortune was followed by the sufferings of a -most painful retreat over the almost impassable mountains between the -Lake and what is now Whitehall. While wandering about the island, it was -a difficult matter for me to realize, that it had ever resounded with -the roar of cannon, the dismal wail of war, and the shout of victory. -That spot is now covered with woods, whose shadowy groves are the abode -of a thousand birds, for ever singing a song of peace or love, as if to -condemn the ambition and cruelty of man. - - -In the vicinity of French Mountain is an island celebrated as the burial -place of a rattle-snake hunter, named Belden. From all that I can learn, -he must have been a strange mortal indeed. His birth-place and early -history were alike unknown. When he first made his appearance at this -Lake, his only companions were a brotherhood of rattle-snakes, by -exhibiting which he professed to have obtained his living; and it is -said that, during the remainder of his life, he acquired a handsome sum -of money by selling the oil and gall of his favourite reptile. And I -have recently been told, that the present market-price of a fat snake, -when dead, is not less than half a dollar. Another mode peculiar to old -Belden for making money, was to suffer himself to be bitten, at some -tavern, after which he would return to his cabin to apply the remedy, -when he would come forth again just as good as new. But he was not -always to be a solemn trifler. For a week had the old man been missing, -and on a pleasant August morning, his body was found on the island -alluded to, sadly mutilated and bloated, and it was certain that he had -died actually surrounded by rattlesnakes. His death-bed became his -grave, and rattlesnakes were his only watchers,—and thus endeth the -story of his life. - -But this reminds me of two little adventures. The other day, as I was -seated near the edge of a sand bar, near the mouth of a brook, sketching -a group of trees and the sunset clouds beyond, I was startled by an -immense black snake, that landed at my side, and pursued its way -directly under my legs, upon which my drawing-book was resting. Owing to -my perfect silence, the creature had probably looked upon me as a mere -stump. But what was my surprise, a few moments after, when reseated in -the same place, to find another snake, and that a large spotted adder, -passing along the same track the former had pursued. The first fright -had almost disabled me from using the pencil, but when the second came, -I gave a lusty yell, and forgetful of the fine arts, started for home on -the keen run. - -At another time, when returning from a fishing excursion, in a boat, -accompanied by a couple of “greenhorns,” we discovered on the water, -near Tongue Mountain, an immense rattlesnake, with his head turned -towards us. As the oarsman in the bow of the boat struck at him with his -oar, the snake coiled round it, and the fool was in the very act of -dropping the devilish thing in my lap at the stern of the boat. I had -heard the creature rattle, and not knowing what I did, as he hung -suspended over me, overboard I went, and did not look behind till I had -reached the land. The consequence was, that for one while I was -perfectly disgusted even with Lake Horicon, and resolved to leave it -without delay. The snake was killed without doing any harm, however; but -such a blowing up as I gave the man actually made his hair stand -straight with fear. - -One more snake story and I’ll conclude. On the north side of Black -Mountain is a cluster of some half-dozen houses, in a vale, which spot -is called the Bosom, but from what cause I do not know. The presiding -geniuses of the place are a band of girls, weighing two hundred pounds a -piece, who farm it with their fathers for a living, but whose principal -amusement is rattlesnake hunting. Their favourite playground is the -notorious cliff on Tongue Mountain, where they go with naked feet -(rowing their own boats across the Lake), and pull out by their tails -from the rocks the pretty playthings, and, snapping them to death, they -lay them away in a basket as trophies of their skill. I was told that in -one day last year they killed the incredible number of eleven hundred. -What delicious wives would these Horicon ladies make! Since the Florida -Indians have been driven from their country by bloodhounds, would it not -be a good idea for Congress to secure the services of these amazons for -the purpose of exterminating the rattlesnakes upon our mountains. This -latter movement would be the most ridiculous; but the inhumanity of the -former is without a parallel. - - -A clear and tranquil summer night, and I am alone on the pebbly beach of -this paragon of Lakes. The countless hosts of heaven are beaming upon me -with a silent joy, and more impressive and holy than a poet’s dream are -the surrounding mountains, as they stand reflected in the unruffled -waters. Listen! what sound is that, so like the wail of a spirit? Only a -loon, the lonely night-washer of Horicon, whose melancholy moan, as it -breaks the profound stillness, carries my fancy back to the olden Indian -times, ere the white man had crossed the ocean. All these mountains and -this beautiful Lake were then the heritage of a brave and noble-hearted -people, who made war only upon the denizens of the forest, whose lives -were peaceful as a dream, and whose manly forms, decorated with the -plumes of the eagle, the feathers of the scarlet bird, and the robe of -the bounding stag, tended but to make the scenery of the wilderness -beautiful as an earthly Eden. Here was the quiet wigwam village, and -there the secluded abode of the thoughtful chief. Here, unmolested, the -Indian child played with the spotted fawn, and the “Indian lover wooed -his dusky mate;” here the Indian hunter, in the “sunset of his life,” -watched, with holy awe, the sunset in the west, and here the ancient -Indian prophetess sung her uncouth but religious chant. Gone—all, all -gone—and the desolate creature of the waves, now pealing forth another -wail, seems the only memorial that they have left behind. There—my -recent aspirations are all quelled, I can walk no farther to-night; -there is sadness in my soul, and I must seek my home. It is such a -blessed night, that it seems almost sinful that a blight should rest -upon the spirit of man; yet on mine a gloom will sometimes fall, nor can -I tell from whence the cloud that makes me wretched. - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - -The Scaroon Country—Scaroon Lake—Pike Fishing by Torch-light—Trout -Fishing—Lyndsey’s Tavern—Paradox Lake. - - Lyndsey’s Tavern. June. - -Emptying into the Hudson River, about fifteen miles north of Glen’s -Falls, is quite a large stream, sometimes called the East Branch of the -Hudson, but generally known as Scaroon River.[1] Its extreme length is -not far from fifty miles. It is a clear, cold, and rapid stream, winds -through a mountainous country, and has rather a deep channel. The valley -through which it runs is somewhat cultivated, but the mountains, which -frown upon it on either side, are covered with dense forests. The valley -of the Scaroon abounds in beautiful lakes and brooks; and as I have -explored them pretty thoroughly during the past week, I will now record -the result of my observations. - -The most prominent pictorial features of this region is Scaroon Lake, -through which the river of that name forms a channel. It is ten miles in -length, and averages about one in width. Excepting a little hamlet at -its head, and two or three farms at the southern extremity, it is yet -surrounded with a wilderness of mountains. The waters thereof are deep -and clear, and well supplied with fish, of which the salmon-trout and -pike are the most valuable. The trout are more abundant here than in -Lake George, but owing to the prevailing custom of spearing them in the -autumn, they are rapidly becoming extinct. I made a desperate effort to -capture one as a specimen, but without success, though I was told that -they varied in weight from ten to fifteen pounds. My efforts, however, -in taking pike were more encouraging. But, before giving my experience, -I must mention an interesting fact in natural history. Previous to the -year 1840, Scaroon Lake was not known to contain a single pike, but -during that year, some half dozen males and females were brought from -Lake Champlain and deposited therein, since which time they have -multiplied so rapidly, as to be quite abundant, not only in Scaroon -Lake, but in all the neighbouring waters. And as they are frequently -taken, weighing some twenty pounds, the fact seems to be established -that this fish grows rapidly, and is not of slow growth, as many -naturalists have supposed. - -But to my pike story. A number of lumbermen were going out for the -purpose of taking pike by torch-light, and I was fortunate enough to -secure a seat in one of the three flat boats which contained the -fishermen. It was a superb night, and the lake was without a ripple. Our -torches were made of “fat pine,” as it is here called; and my polite -friends taking it for granted that I was a novice in the spearing -business, they cunningly awarded to me the dullest spear in their -possession, and gave me the poorest position in the boat. I said nothing -to all this, but inwardly resolved that I would give them a salutary -lesson, if possible. I fished from nine until twelve o’clock, and then -left my friends to continue the sport. The entire number of pike taken, -as I found out in the morning, was thirteen; and, as fortune would have -it, four of this number were captured by myself, in spite of my poor -spear. I did not take the largest fish, which weighed eighteen pounds, -but the greatest number, with which success I was fully satisfied. The -effect of my good luck upon my companions was unexpected, but gratifying -to me; for there was afterwards a strife between them, as to who should -show me the most attention in the way of piloting me about the country. -This little adventure taught me the importance of understanding even the -vagabond art of spearing. - -The event of that night, however, which afforded me the purest -enjoyment, was the witnessing of a moonlight scene, immediately after -leaving the Lake shore, for the inn where I was staying. Before me, in -wild and solemn beauty, lay the southern portion of the Scaroon, on -whose bosom were gliding the spearmen, holding high above their heads -three huge torches, which threw a spectral glare, not only upon the -water, but upon the swarthy forms which were watching for their prey. -Just at this moment an immense cloud of fog broke away, and directly -above the summit of the opposite mountain, the clear full moon made its -appearance, and a thousand fantastic figures, born of the fog, were -pictured in the sky, and appeared extremely brilliant under the -effulgence of the ruling planet; while the zenith of sky was of a deep -blue, cloudless, but completely spangled with stars. And what greatly -added to the magic of the scene, was the dismal scream of a loon, which -came to my ear from a remote portion of the Lake which was yet covered -with a heavy fog. - -Rising from the western margin of Scaroon Lake, is a lofty mountain, -which was once painted by Thomas Cole, and by him named Scaroon -Mountain. There is nothing particularly imposing about it, but it -commands an uncommonly fine prospect of the surrounding country. When I -first came in sight of this mountain, it struck me as an old -acquaintance, and I reined in my horse for the purpose of investigating -its features. Before I resumed my course, I concluded that I was -standing on the very spot whence the artist Cole had taken his original -sketch of the scene, by which circumstance I was convinced of the -fidelity of his pencil. - -The largest island in Scaroon Lake lies near the northern extremity, and -studs the water like an emerald on a field of blue. It was purchased -some years ago by a gentleman of New York, named Ireland, who has built -a summer residence upon it, for the accommodation of himself and -friends. - -Emptying into the Scaroon river, just below the Lake, is a superb -mountain stream, known as Trout Brook. It is thirty feet wide, twelve -miles long, and comes rushing down the mountains, forming a thousand -waterfalls and pools, and filling its narrow valley with a continual -roar of music. Not only is it distinguished for the quality and number -of its trout, but it possesses one attraction which will pay the tourist -for the weary tramp he must undergo to explore its remote recesses. I -allude to what the people about here call the “Stone Bridge.” At this -point, the wild and dashing stream has formed a channel directly through -the solid mountains; so that in fishing down, the angler suddenly finds -himself standing upon a pile of dry stones. The extent of this natural -bridge is not more than twenty, or perhaps thirty feet; but the wonder -is, that the unseen channel is sufficiently large to admit the passage -of the largest logs, which the lumbermen float down the stream. - -I might also add, that at the foot of this bridge is one of the finest -pools imaginable. It is, perhaps, one hundred feet long; and so very -deep, that the clear water appears quite black. This is the finest spot -in the whole brook for trout; and my luck there may be described as -follows: I had basketed no less than nine half-pounders, when my fly was -suddenly seized, and my snell snapped in twain by the fierceness of his -leaps. The consequence of that defeat was, that I resolved to capture -the trout, if I had to remain there all night. I then ransacked the -mountain-side for a living bait, and with the aid of my companion, -succeeded in capturing a small mouse, and just as the twilight was -coming on, I tied the little fellow to my hook, and threw him on the -water. He swam out in fine style; but when he reached the centre of the -pool, a large trout leaped completely out of his element, and in -descending, seized the mouse. The result was, that I broke my rod, but -caught the trout; and though the mouse was seriously injured, I had the -pleasure of again giving him his liberty. - -The largest trout that I killed weighed nearly a pound; and though he -was the cause of my receiving a ducking, he afforded me some sport, and -gave me a new idea. When I first hooked him, I stood on the very margin -of the stream, knee deep in a bog; and just as I was about to basket -him, he gave a sudden leap, cleared himself, and fell into the water. -Quick as thought, I made an effort to rescue him; but in doing so, lost -my balance, and was playing the part of a turtle in a tub of water. I -then became poetical, and thought it “would never do to give it up so;” -and after waiting some fifteen minutes, I returned, and tried for the -lost trout again. I threw my fly some twenty feet above the place where -I had tumbled in, and recaptured the identical trout which I had lost. I -recognized him by his having a torn and bleeding mouth. - -This circumstance convinced me that trout, like many of the sons of men, -have short memories, and also that the individual in question was a -perfect Richelieu or General Taylor in his way, for he seemed to know no -such word as fail. As to the trout that I did not capture, I verily -believe that he must have weighed two pounds; but as he was probably a -superstitious gentleman, he thought it the better part of valour, -somewhat like Santa Anna, to treat the steel of his enemy with contempt. - -The brook of which I have been speaking, is only twenty-five miles from -Lake Horicon, and unquestionably one of the best streams for the angler -in the Scaroon Valley. The Trout Brook Pavilion, at the mouth of it, -kept by one Lockwood, is a comfortable inn; and his right-hand man, -named Kipp, is a very fine fellow, and a perfect angler. - -Speaking of the above friends, reminds me of another, a fine man, named -Lyndsey, who keeps a tavern, about ten miles north of Scaroon Lake. His -dwelling is delightfully situated in the centre of a deep valley, and is -a nice and convenient place to stop at for those who are fond of -fishing, and admire romantic scenery. His family, including his wife, -two daughters and one son, not only know how to make their friends -comfortable, but they seem to have a passion for doing kind deeds. - -During my stay at this place, I had the pleasure of witnessing a most -interesting game, which seems to be peculiar to this part of the -country. It was played with the common ball, and by one hundred sturdy -farmers. Previous to the time alluded to, fifty Scaroon players had -challenged an equal number of players from a neighbouring village, named -Moriah. The conditions were, that the defeated party should pay for a -dinner, to be given by my friend Lyndsey. They commenced playing at nine -o’clock, and the game was ended in about three hours, the Scaroon party -having won by about ten counts in five hundred. The majority of the -players varied from thirty to thirty-five years of age, though some of -the most expert of them were verging upon sixty years. They played with -the impetuosity of school-boys; and there were some admirable feats -performed in the way of knocking and catching the ball. Some of the men -could number their acres by thousands, and all of them were accustomed -to severe labour, and yet they thought it absolutely necessary to -participate occasionally in this manly and fatiguing sport. The dinner -passed off in fine style, and was spiced by many agricultural anecdotes; -and as the sun was setting, the parties separated in the best of -spirits, and returned to their several homes. - -For fear that I should forget my duty, I would now introduce to my -reader, a sheet of water embosomed among these mountains, which glories -in the name of Lake Paradox. How it came by that queer title, I was not -able to learn; but this I know, that it is one of the most beautiful -lakes I have ever seen. It is five miles long, and surrounded with -uncultivated mountains, excepting at its foot, where opens a beautiful -plain, highly cultivated, and dotted with a variety of rude but -exceedingly comfortable farm-houses. The shores of Lake Paradox are -rocky, the water deep and clear, abounding in fish, and the lines of the -mountains are picturesque to an uncommon degree. - -But it is time that I should turn from particulars to a general -description of the Scaroon Country. Though this is an agricultural -region, the two principal articles of export are lumber and iron. Of the -former, the principal varieties are pine, hemlock, and spruce; and the -two establishments for the manufacture of iron are abundantly supplied -with ore from the surrounding mountains. Potatoes of the finest quality -flourish here, also wheat and corn. The people are mostly Americans, -intelligent, virtuous and industrious, and are as comfortable and happy -as any in the State. - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - -The Adirondac Mountains—Trout Fishing in the Boreas River—A night in the -woods—Moose Lake—Lake Delia—Mount Tahawas—Lakes Sanford and -Henderson—The McIntyre Iron Works. - - John Cheney’s Cabin. June. - -The Adirondac Mountains are situated on the extreme head waters of the -Hudson, in the Counties of Essex and Hamilton, and about forty miles -west of Lake Champlain. They vary from five hundred to five thousand -feet in height, and with few exceptions are covered with dense forests. -They lord it over the most extensive wilderness region in the Empire -State; and as I have recently performed a pilgrimage among them, I now -purpose to give an account of what I saw and heard during my expedition. - -The tourist, who visits these mountains, finds it necessary to leave the -mail road near Lyndsey’s Tavern on the Scaroon. If fortune smiles upon -him, he will be able to hire a horse to take him in the interior, or -perhaps obtain a seat in a lumber wagon; but if not, he must try the -mettle of his legs. With regard to my own case, fortune was -non-committal; for, while she compelled me to go on foot, she supplied -me with a pair of temporary companions, who were going into the interior -to see their friends, and have a few days’ sport in the way of fishing -and hunting. - -One of my friends, (both of whom were young men), was a farmer, who -carried a rifle, and the other a travelling country musician, who earned -a fiddle. Our first day’s tramp took us about fifteen miles, through a -hilly, thickly wooded, and houseless wilderness, to the Boreas River, -where we found a ruined log shantee, in which we determined to spend the -night. We reached this lonely spot at three o’clock in the afternoon; -and having previously been told that the Boreas was famous for trout, -two of us started after a mess of fish, while the fiddler was appointed -to the office of wood chopper to the expedition. - -The Boreas at this point is about one hundred feet broad, winds through -a woody valley, and is cold, rapid and clear. The entire river does not -differ materially, as I understand from the point alluded to, for it -waters an unknown wilderness. I bribed my farmer friend to _ascend_ the -river, and having pocketed a variety of flies, I started down the -stream. I proceeded near half a mile, when I came to a still-water pool, -which seemed to be extensive and very deep. At the head of it, midway in -the stream, was an immense boulder, which I succeeded in surmounting, -and whence I threw a red hackle for upwards of three hours. I never saw -trout jump more beautifully, and it was my rare luck to basket -thirty-four, twenty-one of which averaged three quarters of a pound, and -the remaining thirteen were regular two-pounders. Satisfied with my -luck, I returned to the shantee, where I found my companions, one of -them sitting before a blazing fire and fiddling, and the other busily -employed in cleaning the trout he had taken. - -In due time followed the principal event of the day, which consisted in -cooking and eating a wilderness supper. We had brought a supply of pork -and bread, and each one having prepared for himself a pair of wooden -forks, we proceeded to roast our trout and pork before a huge fire, -using the drippings of the latter for seasoning, and a leather cup of -water for our beverage. We spent the two following hours in smoking and -telling stories; and having made a bed of spruce boughs, and repaired -the rickety partition which divided one end of the cabin from the other -end, which was all open, we retired to repose. We had no blankets with -us, and an agreement was, therefore, entered into that we should take -turns in replenishing the fire, during the night. An awfully dark cloud -settled upon the wilderness, and by the music of the wind among the -hemlock trees we were soon lulled into a deep slumber. - -A short time after midnight, while dreaming of a certain pair of eyes in -the upper part of Broadway, I was awakened by a footstep on the outside -of the cabin. I brushed open my eyes, but could see nothing but the -faint glimmer of an expiring ember on the hearth. I held my breath and -listened for the mysterious footsteps; I heard it not, but something a -little more exciting,—the scratching of a huge paw upon our slender -door. In an exceedingly short time I roused my bed-fellows, and told -them what I had heard. They thought it must be a wolf, and as we were -afraid to frighten him away, yet anxious to take his hide, it was -resolved that I should hold a match, and the farmer should fire his -rifle in the direction of the mysterious noise, which operation was duly -performed. A large pine torch was then lighted, the rifle reloaded, and -the heroes of the adventure marched into the outer hall of the cabin, -where we found a few drops of blood, and the muddy tracks of what we -supposed to be a wild cat. The rifleman and myself then commissioned the -fiddler to make a fire, when we again threw ourselves upon the hemlock -couch. - -The fiddler attended faithfully to his duty, and in less than twenty -minutes he had kindled a tremendous blaze. The brilliant and laughing -flame had such an exhilarating influence upon his nerves, that he seized -his instrument and commenced playing, partly for the purpose of keeping -off the wild animals, but mostly for his own amusement. Then laying -aside his fiddle, he began to sing a variety of uncouth as well as -plaintive songs, one of which was vague but mournful in sentiment, and -more wild in melody, as I thought at the time, than anything I had ever -before heard. I could not find out by whom it was written, or what was -its exact import, but in the lonely place where we were sleeping, and at -that hour, it made a very deep impression on my mind. The burthen of the -song was as follows, and was in keeping with the picture which the -minstrel, the fire-light, and the rude cabin presented. - - “We parted in silence, we parted at night, - On the banks of that lonely river; - Where the shadowy trees their boughs unite - We met, and we parted for ever;— - The night bird sang, and the stars above - Told many a touching story, - Of friends long passed to the mansions of rest, - Where the soul wears her mantle of glory. - - “We parted in silence, our cheeks were wet - By the tears that were past controlling;— - We vowed we would never, no never forget, - And those vows at the time were consoling;— - But the lips that echoed my vows - Are as cold as that lonely river, - The sparkling eye, the spirit’s shrine - Has shrouded its fire for ever. - - “And now on the midnight sky I look, - My eyes grow full with weeping,— - Each star to me is a sealed book - Some tale of that loved one keeping. - We parted in silence, we parted in tears - On the banks of that lonely river, - But the odour and bloom of by-gone years - Shall hang o’er its waters for ever.” - -But sleep, the “dear mother of fresh thoughts and joyous health” soon -folded the singer and his listeners in her embrace, and with the rising -sun we entered upon the labours of another day. While the fiddler -prepared our breakfast, (out of the few trout which certain _beastly_ -robbers had not stolen during the night), the rifleman went out and -killed a large hare, and I took a sketch of the cabin where we had -lodged. - -After breakfast we shouldered our knapsacks and started for the Hudson. -We struck this noble river at the embryo city of Tahawas where we found -a log house and an unfinished saw-mill. Here we also discovered a canoe -which we boarded, and navigated the stream to Lake Sanford. This portion -of the Hudson is not more than one hundred feet broad, but quite deep -and picturesque. On leaving our canoe we made our way up a mountain -road, and after walking about four miles, came out upon an elevated -clearing of some two hundred acres, in the centre of which was a -solitary log cabin with a retinue of out-houses,—and this was the famous -Newcomb Farm. - -The attractions of this spot are manifold, for it lies in the vicinity -of Moose Lake and Lake Delia, and commands the finest distant prospect -of the Adirondac Mountains, which has yet been discovered. - -Moose Lake lies at the west of the Farm, and about six miles distant. It -is embosomed among mountains, and the fountain head of the Cold River, -which empties into the St. Lawrence. In form it is so nearly round, that -its entire shore may be seen at one view; the bottom is covered with -white sand, and the water is perfectly cold and clear. Considering its -size, it is said to contain more trout than any lake in this wilderness; -and it is also celebrated as a watering-place for deer and moose. In -fishing from the shore, one of our party caught no less than forty -pounds of trout in about two hours. There were two varieties, and they -varied from one to three pounds in weight. - -Our guide to this lake, where we encamped for one night, was Steuben -Hewitt, the keeper of the Newcomb Farm, who is a hunter. This woodsman -got the notion into his head, that he must have a venison steak for his -banquet. We had already seen some half dozen deer walking along the -opposite margin of the lake, but Steuben told us that he would wait -until after dark to capture his game. He also told us that the deer were -in the habit of visiting the wilder lakes of this region at night, for -the purpose of escaping the tormenting flies; and as he spoke so -confidently of what he intended to accomplish, we awaited his effort -with a degree of anxiety. - -Soon as the quiet night had fairly set in, he shipped himself on board a -wooden canoe (a rickety affair, originally bequeathed to this lake by -some departed Indian,) in the bow of which was a fire-jack or -torch-holder. Separating this machine from himself, as he sat in the -centre of the canoe, was a kind of screen made of bark, which was -sufficiently elevated to allow him to fire his gun from underneath; and -in this manner, with a loaded rifle by his side, did he paddle into the -lake. After floating upon the water for one hour, in perfect silence, he -finally heard a splashing near the shore, and immediately lighting his -torch, he noiselessly proceeded in the direction of the sound, where he -discovered a beautiful deer standing knee-deep in the water, and looking -at him in stupified wonder. The poor creature could see nothing before -it but the mysterious light, and while standing in the most interesting -attitude imaginable, the hunter raised his rifle and shot it through the -heart. In half an hour from that time the carcass of the deer was -hanging from a dry limb near our camp fire, and I was lecturing the -hard-hearted hunter on the cruelty of thus capturing the innocent -creatures of the forest. To all my remarks, however, he replied, “They -were given to us for food, and it matters not how we kill them.” - -Lake Delia, through which you have to pass in going to Moose Lake, lies -about two miles west of the Newcomb Farm. It is four miles long, and -less than one mile in width, and completely surrounded with wood-crowned -hills. Near the central portion this lake is quite narrow, and so -shallow that a rude bridge has been thrown across for the accommodation -of the farm people. The water under this bridge is only about four feet -deep, and this was the only spot in the lake where I followed my -favorite recreation. I visited it on one occasion with my companions, -late in the afternoon, when the wind was blowing, and we enjoyed rare -sport in angling for salmon-trout, as well as a large species of the -common trout. I do not know the number that we took, but I well remember -that we had more than we could conveniently carry. Usually, the -salmon-trout are only taken in deep water, but in this and Moose Lake, -they seem to be as much at home in shallow as in deep water. - -On one occasion I visited Lake Delia alone, at an early hour of the -morning. It so happened, that I took a rifle along with me, and while -quietly throwing my fly on the old bridge, I had an opportunity of using -the gun to some purpose. My movements in that lonely place were so -exceedingly still, that even the wild animals were not disturbed by my -presence; for while I stood there, a large fat otter made his -appearance, and when he came within shooting distance, I gave him the -contents of my gun, and he disappeared. I related the adventure to my -companions on my return to the Farm, but they pronounced it a “fish -story.” I finally vindicated my veracity, however, for, on the following -day, they discovered a dead otter on the lake shore, and concluded that -I had told the truth. - -I must not conclude this chapter without giving my reader an additional -paragraph about the Newcomb Farm. My friend Steuben Hewitt’s nearest -neighbour is eight miles off, and as his family is small, you may -suppose that he leads a retired life. One of the days that I spent at -his house, was an eventful one with him, for a town election was held -there. The electors met at nine o’clock, and the poll closed at five; -and as the number of votes polled was SEVEN, it may well be supposed -that the excitement was intense. - -But, with all its loneliness, the Newcomb Farm is well worth visiting, -if for no other purpose than to witness the panorama of mountains which -it commands. On every side but one, they may be seen fading away to -mingle their deep blue with the lighter hue of the sky; but chief among -them all is old Tahawas, king of the Adirondacs. - -The country out of which this mountain rises is an imposing Alpine -wilderness; and as it has long since been abandoned by the red man, the -solitude of its deep valleys and lonely lakes, for the most part, is now -more impressive than that of the far-off Rocky Mountains. - -The meaning of the Indian word Tahawas, is _Sky Piercer_, or _Sky -Splitter_, and faithfully describes the appearance of the mountain. Its -actual elevation, above the level of the sea, is five thousand four -hundred and sixty-seven feet, while that of Mount Washington, in New -Hampshire, is only six thousand two hundred and thirty-four; making a -difference of only seven hundred and sixty-seven feet in favour of -Washington. Though Tahawas is not so lofty as its New England brother, -yet its form is by far the most picturesque and imposing. Taken -together, they are the highest pair of mountains in the United States. - -Before going one step farther, I must allude to what I deem the folly of -a certain state geologist, in attempting to name the prominent peaks of -the Adirondac Mountains after a brotherhood of living men. If he is to -have his way in this matter, the beautiful name of Tahawas will be -superseded by that of Marcy, and several of Tahawas’ peers are hereafter -to be known as Mounts Seward, Wright, and Young. Now if this business is -not supremely ridiculous, I must confess that I do not know the meaning -of that word. A pretty idea, indeed, to scatter to the winds the ancient -poetry of the poor Indian, and perpetuate in its place the names of -living politicians. For my part, I agree most decidedly with the older -inhabitants of the Adirondac wilderness, who look with perfect -indifference upon the attempted usurpation of the geologist already -mentioned. - -For nine months in the year, old Tahawas is covered with a crown of -snow, but there are spots among its fastnesses where you may gather ice -and snow, even in the dog-days. The base of this mountain is covered -with a luxuriant forest of pine, spruce and hemlock, while the summit is -clothed in a net-work of creeping trees, and almost entirely destitute -of the green which should characterize them. In ascending its sides, -when near the summit, you are impressed with the idea that your pathway -may be smooth; but as you proceed, you are constantly annoyed by -pit-falls, into which your legs are foolishly poking themselves, to the -great annoyance of your back-bone, and other portions of your body, -which are naturally straight. - -I ascended Tahawas, as a matter of course, and in making the trip I -travelled some twenty miles, on foot and through the pathless woods, -employing for the same the better part of two days. My companion on this -expedition was John Cheney (of whom I have something to write -hereafter), and as he did not consider it prudent to spend the night on -the summit, we only spent about one hour gazing upon the panorama from -the top, and then descended about half way down the mountain, where we -built our watch-fire. The view from Tahawas is rather unique. It looks -down upon what appears to be an uninhabited wilderness, with mountains -fading to the sky in every direction, and where, on a clear day, you may -count no less than twenty-four lakes, including Champlain, Horicon, Long -Lake, and Lake Pleasant. - -While trying to go to sleep on the night in question, as I lay by the -side of my friend Cheney, he gave me an account of the manner in which -certain distinguished gentlemen had ascended Mount Tahawas, for it must -be known that he officiates as the guide of all travellers in this wild -region. Among those to whom he alluded, were Ingham and Cole, the -artists, and Hoffman and Headley, the travellers. He told me that Mr. -Ingham fainted a number of times in making the ascent, but became so -excited with all that he saw, he determined to persevere, and finally -succeeded in accomplishing the difficult task. Mr. Hoffman, he said, in -spite of his lameness, would not be persuaded by words that he could not -reach the summit; and when he finally discovered that the task was -utterly beyond his accomplishment, his disappointment seemed to have no -bounds. - -The night that I spent on Tahawas was not distinguished by any event -more remarkable than a regular rain-storm. Our canopy was composed of -hemlock branches, and our only covering was a blanket. The storm did not -set in until about midnight, and my first intimation of its approach was -the falling of rain-drops directly into my ear, as I snugged up to my -bed-fellow, for the purpose of keeping warm. Desperate indeed were the -efforts I made to forget my condition in sleep, as the rain fell more -abundantly, and drenched me, as well as my companion, to the very skin. -The thunder bellowed as if in the enjoyment of a very happy frolic, and -the lightning seemed determined to root up a few trees in our immediate -vicinity, as if for the purpose of giving us more room. Finally Cheney -rose from his pillow (which was a log of wood), and proposed that we -should quaff a little brandy, to keep us from catching cold, which we -did, and then made another attempt to reach the land of Nod. - - * * * * * * * * - -At the break of day, we were awakened from a short but refreshing sleep -by the singing of birds; and when the cheerful sunlight had reached the -bottom of the ravines, we were enjoying a comfortable breakfast in the -cabin of my friend. - -The principal attractions, associated with Tahawas are the Indian Pass, -the Adirondac Lakes, the Adirondac Iron Works, and the mighty hunter of -the Adirondacs, John Cheney. The Pass, so called, is only an -old-fashioned notch between the mountains. On one side is a -perpendicular precipice, rising to the height of eleven hundred feet; -and, on the other, a wood-covered mountain, ascending far up into the -sky, at an angle of forty-five degrees. Through this Pass flows a tiny -rivulet, over which the rocks are so thickly piled, as frequently to -form pitfalls, that measure from ten to thirty feet in depth. Some of -these holes are never destitute of ice, and are cool and comfortable -even at midsummer. The Pass is nearly half a mile in length, and, at one -point, certain immense boulders have come together and formed a cavern, -which is called the “meeting house,” and is, perhaps, capable of -containing a thousand people. The rock on either side of the Pass, is a -grey granite, and its only inhabitants are eagles, which are very -abundant, and occupy the most conspicuous crag in the notch. - -The two principal lakes which gem the Adirondac wilderness are named -Sanford and Henderson, after the two gentlemen who first purchased land -upon their borders. The former is five miles in length, and the latter -somewhat less than three, both of them varying in width from half a mile -to a mile and a half. The mountains which swoop down to their bosoms are -covered with forest, and abound in a great variety of large game. There -is not, to my knowledge, a single habitation on either of the lakes, and -the only smoke ever seen to ascend from their lonely recesses, comes -from the watch-fire of the hunter, or the encampment of surveyors and -tourists. The water of these lakes is cold and deep, and moderately -supplied with salmon trout. Lake Henderson is admirably situated for the -exciting sport of deer-hunting, and though it contains two or three -canoes, cannot be entered from the West Branch of the Hudson without -making a portage. - -Through Lake Sanford, however, the Hudson takes a direct course, and -there is nothing to impede the passage of a small boat to within a mile -of the Iron Works, which are situated in a valley between the two lakes. -The fact is, during the summer, there is an extensive business done on -Lake Sanford, in the way of “bringing in” merchandize, and “carrying -out” the produce of the Forge. It was my misfortune to make the inward -passage of the Lake in company with two ignorant Irishmen. Their boat -was small, heavily laden, very old and leaky. This was my only chance, -and on taking my seat with a palpitating heart, I made an express -bargain with the men that they should keep along the shore on their way -up. They assented to my wishes, but immediately pulled for the very -centre of the lake. I remonstrated, but they told me there was no -danger. The boat was now rapidly filling with water, and though one was -bailing with all his might, the rascals were determined not to accede to -my wishes. The conclusion of the matter was, that our shallop became -water-logged; and on finally going ashore, the merchandize was greatly -damaged, and I was just about as wet as I was angry at the miserable -creatures, whose obstinacy had not only greatly injured their employers, -but also endangered my own plunder as well as my life. - -The Iron Works alluded to above are located in a narrow valley, and in -the immediate vicinity of Lake Henderson at a place called McIntyre. -Sometime in the year 1830, a couple of Scotch gentlemen, named Henderson -and McIntyre, purchased a large tract of wild land lying in this portion -of New York. In the summer following, they passed through this -wilderness on an exploring expedition, and, with the assistance of their -Indian guide, discovered that the bed of the valley in question was -literally blocked up with iron ore. On making farther investigations, -they found that the whole rocky region about them was composed of -valuable mineral, and they subsequently established a regular built Iron -Establishment, which has been in operation ever since. A gentleman named -Robinson afterwards purchased an interest in the concern, and it is now -carried on by him and Mr. McIntyre, though the principal stock-holders -are the wife and son of Mr. Henderson, deceased. - -The metal manufactured by this company is of the very best quality of -bar-iron; and an establishment is now in progress of erection at -Tahawas, twelve miles down the river, where a party of English gentlemen -intend to manufacture every variety of steel. The Iron Works give -employment to about one hundred and fifty men, whose wages vary from one -dollar to four dollars per day. The society of the place, you may well -imagine, is decidedly original; but the prominent individual, and only -remarkable man who resides here, is John Cheney, the mighty hunter of -the Adirondacs. For an account of this man, the reader will please look -into the following chapter. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - -John Cheney, the Adirondac hunter, and some of his exploits. - - John Cheney’s Cabin. June. - -John Cheney was born in New Hampshire, but spent his boyhood on the -shores of Lake Champlain, and has resided in the Adirondac wilderness -about thirteen years. He has a wife and one child, and lives in a -comfortable cabin in the wild village of McIntyre. His profession is -that of a hunter, and he is in the habit of spending about one half of -his time in the woods. He is a remarkably amiable and intelligent man, -and as unlike the idea I had formed of him, as possible. I expected, -from all that I had heard, to see a huge, powerful and hairy Nimrod; but -instead of such, I found him small in stature, and bearing more the -appearance of a modest and thoughtful student. - -The walls of his cosy little house, containing one principal room, are -ornamented with a large printed sheet of the Declaration of -Independence, and two engraved portraits of Washington and Jackson. Of -guns and pistols he has an abundant supply, and also a good stock of all -the conveniences for camping among the mountains. He keeps one cow, -which supplies his family with all the milk they need; but his favourite -animals are a couple of hunting dogs named Buck and Tiger. - -As summer is not the time to accomplish much in the way of hunting, my -adventures with John Cheney have not been distinguished by any stirring -events; we have, however, enjoyed some rare sport in the way of fishing, -and obtained many glorious views from the mountain peaks of this region. -But the conversation of this famous Nimrod has interested me -exceedingly, and wherever we might be, under his own roof, or by the -side of our mountain watch-fires, I have kept him busy in recounting his -former adventures. I copied into my note-book nearly everything he said, -and now present my readers with a few extracts relating to his hunting -exploits. I shall use his own words as nearly as I can remember them. - - * * * * * * * * - -“I was always fond of hunting, and the first animal I killed was a fox; -I was then ten years of age. Even from childhood I was so in love with -the woods that I not only neglected school but was constantly borrowing -a gun, or stealing the one belonging to my father, with which to follow -my favourite amusement. He finally found it a useless business to make a -decent boy of me, and in a fit of desperation he one day presented me -with a common fowling piece. I was the youngest of thirteen children, -and was always called the black sheep of the family. I have always -enjoyed good health, and am forty-seven years of age; but I have now -passed my prime, and don’t care about exposing myself to any useless -dangers. - - * * * * * * * * - -“You ask me if I ever hunt on Sunday: no, Sir, I do not; I have always -been able to kill enough on week days to give me a comfortable living. -Since I came to live among the Adirondacs, I have killed _six hundred -deer_, _four hundred sable_, _nineteen moose_, _twenty-eight bears_, -_six wolves_, _seven wild cats_, _thirty otter_, _one panther and one -beaver_. - - * * * * * * * * - -“As to that beaver, I was speaking about, it took me three years to -capture him, for he was an old fellow, and remarkably cunning. He was -the last, from all that I can learn, that was ever taken in the State. -One of the Long Lake Indians often attempted to trap him, but without -success; he usually found his trap sprung, but could never get a morsel -of the beaver’s tail; and so it was with me, too; but I finally fixed a -trap _under_ the water, near the entrance to his dam, and it so happened -that he one day stepped into it and was drowned. - - * * * * * * * * - -“I was going to tell you something about my dogs—Buck and Tiger. I’ve -raised some fifty of this animal in my day, but I never owned such a -tormented smart one as that fellow Buck. I believe there’s a good deal -of the English mastiff in him; but a keener eye than he carries in his -head I never saw. Only look at that breast of his, did you ever see a -thicker or more solid one? He’s handsomely spotted, as you may see; but -some of the devilish Lake Pleasant Indians cut off his ears and tail -about a year ago, and he now looks rather odd. You may not believe it, -but I have seen a good many men, who were not half as sensible as that -very dog. Whenever the fellow’s hungry, he always seats himself at my -feet and gives three short barks, which is his way of telling me that he -would like some bread and meat. If the folks happen to be away from -home, and he feels a little sharp, he pays a regular visit to all the -houses in the village, and after playing with the children, barks for a -dry crust, which he always receives, and then comes back to his own -home. He’s a great favourite among the children, and I’ve witnessed more -than one fight among the boys, because some wicked little scamp had -thrown a stone at him. When I speak to him, he understands me just as -well as you do. I can wake him out of a sound sleep, and by my saying, -‘Buck, go up and kiss the baby,’ he will march directly to the cradle -and lick the baby’s face. And the way he watches that baby, when it’s -asleep, is perfectly curious; he’d tear you to pieces in three minutes, -if you were to try to take it away. - -“Buck is now four years old, and though he’s helped me to kill several -hundred deer, he never lost one for me yet. Whenever I go a-hunting, and -don’t want him along, I have only to say, ‘Buck, you must not go,’ and -he remains quiet. There’s no use in chaining him, I tell you, for he -understands his business. This dog never starts after a deer until I -tell him to go, even if the deer is in sight. Why, ’twas only the other -day that Tiger brought in a doe to Lake Colden, where the two had a -desperate fight within a hundred yards of the spot where Buck and myself -were seated. I wanted to try the metal of Tiger, and told Buck he must -not stir, though I went up to the deer to see what the result would be -between the fighters. Buck didn’t move out of his tracks; but the way he -howled for a little taste of blood was perfectly awful. I almost thought -the fellow would die in his agony. Buck is of great use to me when I am -off hunting, in more ways than one. If I happen to be lost in a -snow-storm, which is sometimes the case, I only have to tell him to go -home, and if I follow his track I am sure to come out in safety; and -when sleeping in the woods at night, I never have any other pillow than -Buck’s body. - -“As to my black dog Tiger, he isn’t quite two years old yet, but he’s -going to make a great hunter. I am trying hard, now-a-days, to break him -of a very foolish habit of killing porcupines. Not only does he attack -every one he sees, but he goes out to hunt them, and often comes home, -all covered with their quills. It was only the other day, that he came -home with about twenty quills working their way into his snout. It so -happened, however, that they did not kill him, because he let me pull -them all out with a pair of pincers, and that, too, without budging an -inch. About the story people tell, that the porcupine _throws_ its -quills, I can tell you it’s no such thing; it’s only when the quills -touch the dog, that they come out and work their way through his body.” - - * * * * * * * * - -“As to deer hunting, I can tell you more stories in that line than you’d -care about hearing. They have several ways of killing ’em in this -quarter, and some of these ways are so infernal mean, I’m surprised that -there should be any deer left in the country. In the first place, -there’s the ‘still hunting’ fashion, where you lay in ambush near a salt -lick and shoot the poor creatures, when they’re not thinking of you. And -there’s the beastly manner of blinding them with a ‘torch light’ when -they come into the lakes to cool themselves, and get away from the -flies, during the warm nights of summer. Now I say, that no decent man -will take this advantage of wild game, unless he is in a starving -condition. The only manly way to kill deer is by ‘driving’ them, as I -do, with a couple of hounds. - -“There isn’t a creature in this whole wilderness that I think so much of -as the deer. They are so beautiful, with their bright eyes, graceful -necks, and sinewy legs. And they are so swift, and make such splendid -leaps when hard pressed; why, I’ve seen a buck jump from a cliff that -was forty feet high, and that, too, without injuring a hair. I wish I -could get my living without killing this beautiful animal! but I must -live, and I suppose they were made to die. The cry of the deer, when in -the agonies of death, is the awfullest sound I ever heard; I’d a good -deal rather hear the scream of the panther, provided I have a ball in my -pistol, and the pistol is in my hand. I wish they would never speak so. - -“The time for taking deer is in the fall and winter. It’s a curious -fact, that when a deer is at all frightened, he cannot stand upon smooth -ice, while, at the same time, when not afraid of being caught, he will -not only walk, but actually trot across a lake, as smooth as glass. It’s -a glorious sight to see them running down the mountains, with the dogs -howling behind; but I don’t think I ever saw a more beautiful race than -I once did on Lake Henderson, between a buck deer, and my dog Buck, when -the lake was covered with a light fall of snow. I had put Buck upon a -fresh track, and was waiting for him on the lake shore; presently, a -splendid deer bounded out of the woods upon the ice, and as the dog was -only a few paces off, he led the race directly across the lake. Away -they ran, as if a hurricane was after them, crossed the lake, then back -again, they then made another wheel, and having run to the extreme -southern point of the Lake, again returned, when the deer’s wind gave -out, and the dog caught and threw the creature, into whose throat I soon -plunged my knife, and the race was ended. - -“I never was so badly hurt in hunting any animal as I have been in -hunting deer. It was while chasing a buck on Cheney’s Lake, (which was -named after me, by Mr. Henderson, in commemoration of my escape), that I -once shot myself in a very bad way. I was in a canoe, and had laid my -pistol down by my side, when, as I was pressing hard upon the animal, my -pistol slipped under me in some queer way, and went off, sending a ball -into my leg just above the ankle, which came out just below the knee. I -knew something terrible had happened, and though I thought that I might -die, I was determined that the deer should die first; and I did succeed -in killing him before he reached the shore. But soon as the excitement -was over, the pain I had felt before was increased a thousand fold, and -I felt as if all the devils in h—ll were dragging at my leg, the weight -and the agony were so great. I had never suffered so before, and I -thought it strange. You may not believe it, but when that accident -happened I was fourteen miles from home, and yet, even with that used-up -leg, I succeeded in reaching my home, where I was confined to my bed -from October until April. That was a great winter for hunting which I -missed, but my leg got entirely well, and is now as good as ever. - - * * * * * * * * - -“The most savage animal that I hunt for among these mountains is the -moose, or caraboo, as I’ve heard some people call them. They’re quite -plenty in the region of Long Lake and Lake Pleasant; and if the hunter -don’t understand their ways, he’ll be likely to get killed before he -thinks of his danger. The moose is the largest animal of the deer kind, -or, in fact, of any kind that we find in this part of the country. His -horns are very large, and usually look like a pair of crab-apple trees. -He has a long head, long legs, and makes a great noise when he travels; -his flesh is considered first rate, for he feeds upon grass, and the -tender buds of the moose maple; he is a rapid traveller, and hard to -tire out. In winter they run in herds; and when the snow is deep, they -generally live in one particular place in the woods, which we call a -‘yard.’ The crack time for killing them is in the winter, when we can -travel on the snow with our braided snow-shoes. - -“I once killed two moose before nine o’clock in the morning. I had been -out a-hunting for two days, in the winter, and when night came, I had to -camp out near the foot of Old Tahawas. When I got up in the morning, and -was about to start for home, I discovered a yard, where lay a couple of -bull moose. I don’t know what they were thinking about, but just as soon -as they saw me, they jumped up and made directly towards the place where -I was standing. I couldn’t get clear of their ugly feet without running; -so I put for a large dead tree that had blown over, and walking to the -butt of it, which was some ten feet high, looked down in safety upon the -devils. They seemed to be very mad about something, and did everything -they could to get at me by running around; and I remember they ran -together, as if they had been yoked. I waited for a good chance to -shoot, and when I got it, I fired a ball clean through one of the -animals into the shoulder of the second. The first one dropt dead as a -door-nail, but the other took to his heels, and after going about fifty -rods, concluded to lie down. I then came up to him, keeping my dogs -back, for the purpose of sticking him, when he jumped up again, and put -after me like lightning. I ran to a big stump, and after I had fairly -fixed myself, I loaded again, and again fired, when the fellow tumbled -in the snow quite dead. He was eight feet high, and a perfect roarer. - - * * * * * * * * - -“Another animal that we sometimes find pretty plenty in these woods, is -the big grey wolf; they are savage fellows, and dangerous to meet when -angry. On getting up early one winter morning, I noticed in the back -part of my garden, what I thought to be a wolf-track. I got my gun, -called for my dog, and started on the hunt. I found the fellow in his -den among the mountains. I kindled a fire and smoked him out. I then -chased him for about two miles, when he came to bay. He was a big -fellow, and my dogs were afraid to clinch in; dogs hate a wolf worse -than any other animal. I found I had a fair chance, so I fired at the -creature, but my gun missed fire. The wolf then attacked me, and in -striking him with my gun, I broke it all to pieces. I was in a bad fix, -I tell you, but I immediately threw myself on my back with my snow-shoes -above me, when the wolf jumped right on to my body, and probably would -have killed me had it not been for my dog Buck, who worried the wolf so -boldly that the devil left me to fight the dog. While they were fighting -with all their might, I jumped up, took the barrel of my gun and settled -it right into the brain of the savage animal. That was the largest wolf -ever killed in this wilderness. - - * * * * * * * * - -“One of the hardest fights I ever had in these woods, was with a black -bear. I was coming from a winter hunt: the snow was very deep, and I had -on my snow-shoes. It so happened, as I was coming down a certain -mountain, the snow suddenly gave way under me, and I fell into the hole, -or winter-quarters of one of the blackest and largest bears I ever saw. -The fellow was just about as much frightened as I was, and he scampered -out of the den in a great hurry. I was very tired, and had only one dog -with me at the time, but I put after him. I had three smart battles with -him, and in one of them he struck my hand with such force, as to send my -gun at least twenty or thirty feet from where we stood. I finally -managed to kill the rascal, however; but not until he had almost -destroyed the life of my dog. That was a noble dog, but in that battle -the poor fellow received his death-wound. He couldn’t walk at the time; -and though I was nine miles from home, I took him up in my arms and -brought him; but with all my nursing, I could not get him up again, for -he died at the end of a few weeks. That dog was one of the best friends -I ever had. - - * * * * * * * * - -“But the most dangerous animal in this country, is the yellow panther, -or painter. They are not very plentiful, and so tormented cunning, that -it’s very seldom you can kill one. They are very ugly, but don’t often -attack a man unless cornered or wounded. They look and act very much -like a cat, only that they are very large. I never killed but one, and -his body was five feet long, and his tail between three and four. At -night, their eyes look like balls of fire; and when they are after game, -they make a hissing noise, which is very dreadful to hear. Their scream -is also very terrible; and I never saw the man who was anxious to hear -it more than once. They are seldom hunted as a matter of business, but -usually killed by accident. - -“The panther I once killed, I came across in this manner. I was out on -Lake Henderson with two men, catching fish through the ice, when we saw -two wolves come on to the ice in great haste, looking and acting as if -they had been pursued. I proposed to the men that we should all go and -kill them, if we could. They wanted to fish, or were a little afraid, so -I took my gun and started after the game. I followed them some distance, -when, as they were scaling a ledge, they were attacked by a big panther, -and a bloody fight took place. From the appearance of the animals, I -supposed that they had met before, which was the cause why the wolves -came upon the lake. During the scuffle between the animals, it is a -singular fact, that they all three tumbled off the precipice, and fell -through the air, about one hundred feet. The wolves jumped up and ran -away, while the panther started in another direction. I followed his -track, and after travelling a number of hours overtook him, and managed -to shoot him through the shoulder. He then got into a tree, and as he -was lashing his tail, and getting ready to pounce upon me, I gave him -another ball, and he fell to the earth with a crash, and was quite dead. -I then went to the Lake, and got the men to help me home with my booty.” - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - -Burlington—Lake Champlain—Distinguished Men. - - Burlington. June. - -Of all the towns which I have ever seen, Burlington in Vermont is -decidedly one of the most beautiful. It stands on the shore of Lake -Champlain, and from the water to its eastern extremity is a regular -elevation, which rises to the height of some three hundred feet. Its -streets are broad and regularly laid out, the generality of its -buildings elegant, and its inhabitants well educated, refined, and -wealthy. My visit here is now about to close, and I cannot but follow -the impulses of my heart, by giving my reader a brief account of its -principal picturesque attraction, and some information concerning a few -of its public men. - -As a matter of course, my first subject is Lake Champlain. In -approaching it from the south, and particularly from Horicon, one is apt -to form a wrong opinion of its picturesque features; but you cannot pass -through it without being lavish in its praise. It extends, in a straight -line from south to north, somewhat over a hundred miles, and lies -between the States of Vermont and New York. It is the gateway between -the country on the St. Lawrence and that on the Hudson, and it is -therefore extensively navigated by vessels and steam-boats. It is -surrounded with flourishing villages, whose population is generally made -up of New Englanders and Canadians. Its width varies from half a mile to -thirteen, but its waters are muddy, excepting in the vicinity of -Burlington. Its islands are not numerous, but one of them, Grand Isle, -is sufficiently large to support four villages. Its scenery may be -denominated bold; on the west are the Adirondac Mountains; and at some -distance on the east, the beautiful Green Mountains, whose glorious -_commanders_ are Mansfield Mountain and the Camel’s Hump. Owing to the -width of the Lake at Burlington, and the beauty of the western -mountains, the sunsets that are here visible, are exceedingly superb. - -The classic associations of this Lake are uncommonly interesting. Here -are the moss-covered ruins of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, whose present -occupants are the snake, the lizard, and toad. Leaden and iron balls, -broken bayonets, and English flints, have I picked up on their ramparts, -which I cannot look upon without thinking of death-struggles and the -horrible shout of war. And there too is Plattsburg, in whose waters -Commodore McDonough vindicated the honour of the Stars and Stripes of -Freedom. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF TICONDEROGA.] - -As to the fishing of this Lake, I have but a word to say. Excepting -trout, almost every variety of fresh-water fish is found here in -abundance; but the water is not pure, which is ever a serious drawback -to my enjoyment in wetting the line. Lake Champlain received its present -name from a French nobleman, who discovered it in 1609, and who died at -Quebec in 1635. - -The associations I am now to speak of, are of a personal character; and -the first, of the three names before me, is that of Joseph Torrey, the -present Professor of Moral and Intellectual Philosophy in the University -of Vermont. As a citizen, he is one of the most amiable and beloved of -men. As one of the faculty of the University, he occupies a high rank, -and is a particular favourite with all his students. A pleasing evidence -of the latter fact I noticed a few days since, when it was reported -among the students that the Professor had returned from a visit to the -Springs for his health. I was in company with some half dozen of them at -the time, and these are the remarks they made: “How is his health?” “I -hope he has improved!” “Now shall I be happy; for ever since he went -away, the recitation-room has been a cheerless place to me.” “Now shall -I be advised as to my essay!” “Now shall my poem be corrected!” “Now, in -my troubles, shall I have the sympathies of a true friend!” Much more -meaning is contained in these simple phrases than what meets the eye. -Surely, if any man is to be envied, it is he who has a place in the -affections of all who know him. As a scholar, too, Professor Torrey -occupies an exalted station, as will be proved to the world in due time. -He has never published anything but an occasional article for a review, -and the Memoir of President Marsh, (who was his predecessor in the -University), as contained in the admirable volume of his Remains, which -should occupy a conspicuous place in the library of every American -scholar and Christian. - -The memoir is indeed a rare specimen of that kind of writing, -beautifully written, and pervaded by a spirit of refinement that is -delightful. But I was mostly interested in Mr. Torrey as a man of taste -in the Fine Arts. In everything but the mere execution, he is a genuine -artist, and long may I remember the counsels of his experience and -knowledge. A course of Lectures on the Arts forms a portion of his -instruction as Professor; and I trust that they will eventually be -published, for the benefit of our country. He has also translated, from -the German of Schelling, a most admirable discourse, entitled “Relation -of the Arts of Design to Nature;” a copy of which ought to be in the -possession of every young artist. Mr. Torrey has been an extensive -traveller in Europe, and being a lover and an acute observer of -everything connected with literature and art, it is quite a luxury to -hear him expatiate upon “the wonders he has seen.” - -He also examines everything with the eye of a philosopher; and his -conclusions are ever of practical utility. Not only can he analyze in a -profound manner the principles of metaphysical learning, but, with the -genuine feelings of a poet, descant upon the triumphs of poetic genius, -or point out the mind-charms of a Claude or Titian. He is—but I will not -say all that I would, for I fear that at our next meeting he would chide -me for my boyish personalities. Let me conclude then, reader, with the -advice, that, if you ever chance to meet the Professor in your travels, -you must endeavour to secure an introduction, which I am sure you cannot -but ever remember with unfeigned pleasure. - -John Henry Hopkins, D.D., Bishop of Vermont, is another of the principal -attractions of Burlington. The history of his life, the expression of -his countenance, and his general deportment, all speak of the “peace of -God.” Considering the number and diversity of his acquirements, I think -him a very remarkable man. He is not only, in point of character, well -worthy of his exalted station as Bishop, but as a theologian, learned -and eloquent to an uncommon degree. His contributions to the world of -Letters are of rare value, as he has published volumes entitled -“Christianity Vindicated,” “The Primitive Church,” “The Primitive -Creed,” “The Church of Rome,” “British Reformation,” and “Letters to the -Clergy.” His style of writing is persuasive, vigorous, and clear; and -all his conclusions seem to have been formed in full view of the Bible, -which is a virtue worth noticing in these degenerate days. It is because -of his honesty and soundness, I suppose, that some of his own church are -disaffected with his straightforward conduct. Bishop Hopkins, as a -divine, is of the same school with the late Bishop White, and therefore -among the most eminently wise and good of his age and country. - -The Bishop of Vermont is also a man of remarkable taste with regard to -Architecture, Music, and Painting; in which departments, as an amateur, -he has done himself great credit. Not only did he plan and superintend -the building of an edifice for his recent school, but has published an -interesting book on Architecture, wherein he appears to be as much _at -home_ as if he were Christopher Wren. Knowing the market to be full of -sentimental nonsense in the way of songs, he composed, for the benefit -of his own children, a few with a moral tone, which he also set to -music, and are now published as a worthy tribute to his fine feelings, -and the correctness of his ear. But he ranks still higher as a man of -taste in the capacity of a Painter. The Vermont Drawing Book, which he -published, is an evidence of his ability as a draughtsman. The family -portraits which adorn his walls, prove him to have an accurate eye for -colour, and an uncommon knowledge of effect;—his oil sketches of scenes -from nature, give token of an ardent devotion to nature. But the best, -in my opinion, of all his artistical productions, is a picture -representing “our Saviour blessing little children.” Its conception, -grouping, and execution, are all of very great merit, and I am persuaded -will one day be looked upon with peculiar interest by the lovers and -judges of art in this country. Though done in water colours, and -considered by the artist as a mere sketch for a larger picture, there -are some heads in it that would have called forth a compliment even from -the lamented Allston. Would that he could be influenced to send it, for -exhibition, to our National Academy! And thus endeth my humble tribute -of praise to a gifted man. - -I now come to the Hon. George P. Marsh, of whom, if I were to follow the -bent of my feelings, I could write a complete volume. Though yet in the -early prime of life, he is a sage in learning and wisdom. After leaving -college, he settled in Burlington, where he has since resided, dividing -his time between his legal profession and the retirement of his study. -With a large and liberal heart, he possesses all the endearing and -interesting qualities which belong to the true and accomplished -gentleman. Like all truly great men, he is exceedingly retiring and -modest in his deportment, and one of that rare class who can never be -excited by the voice of fame. About two years ago, almost without his -knowledge, he was elected to a seat in the lower house of Congress, -where he at once began to make an impression as a Statesman. Though few -have been his public speeches, they are remarkable for sound political -logic, and the classic elegance of their language. As an orator, he is -not showy and passionate, but plain, forcible, and earnest. - -But it is in the walks of private life, that Mr. Marsh is to be mostly -admired. His knowledge of the Fine Arts is probably more extensive than -that of any other man in this country, and his critical taste is equal -to his knowledge; but that department peculiarly his hobby, is -Engraving. He has a passion for line engravings; and it is -unquestionably true, that his collection is the most valuable and -extensive in the Union. He is well acquainted with the history of this -art from the earliest period, and also with its various mechanical -ramifications. He is as familiar with the lives and peculiar styles of -the Painters and Engravers of antiquity, as with his household affairs; -and when he talks to you on his favourite theme, it is not to display -his learning, but to make you realize the exalted attributes and mission -of universal Art. - -As an author, Mr. Marsh has done but little in extent, but enough to -secure a seat beside such men as Edward Everett, with whom he has been -compared. He has published (among his numerous things of the kind) a -pamphlet entitled “The Goths in New England,” which is a fine specimen -of chaste writing and beautiful thought; also another on the “History of -the Mechanic Arts,” which contains a great deal of rare and important -information. He has also written an “Icelandic Grammar” of one hundred -and fifty pages, which created a sensation among the learned of Europe a -few years ago. As to his scholarship,—it can be said of him, that he is -a _master_ in some twelve of the principal modern and ancient languages. -He has not learned them merely for the purpose of being considered a -literary prodigy, but to multiply his means of acquiring information, -which information is intended to accomplish some substantial end. He is -not a visionary, but a devoted lover of truth, whether it be in History, -Poetry, or the Arts. - -But my chief object in speaking of this gentleman, was to introduce a -passing notice of his Library, which is undoubtedly the most unique in -the country. The building itself, which stands near his dwelling, is of -brick, and arranged throughout with great taste. You enter it, as it was -often my privilege, and find yourself in a perfect wilderness of -gorgeous books, and portfolios of engravings. Of books, Mr. Marsh owns -some five thousand volumes. His collection of Scandinavian Literature is -supposed to be the more complete than any out of the Northern Kingdoms. -To give you an idea of this literary treasure, I will mention a few of -the rarest specimens. In old Northern Literature, here may be found the -_Arna Magnæan_ editions of old Icelandic Sagas, all those of _Suhm_, all -those of the Royal Society of Northern Antiquaries, and, in fact, all -those printed at Copenhagen and Stockholm, as well as in Iceland, with -scarcely an exception. This Library also contains the great editions of -_Heimskringla_, the two _Eddas_, _Kongs-Skugg-Sjo_, _Konunga_, -_Styrilse_, the Scriptores Rerum Danicarum, Scriptores Rerum Svecicarum, -Dansk Magazin, the _two_ complete editions of _Olaus Magnus_, _Saxo -Grammaticus_, the works of Bartholinus, Torfaus, Schöning, Suhm, -Pontoppidan, Grundtvig, Petersen, Rask, the _Aplantica_ of Rudbeck, the -great works of _Sjöborg_, Liljegren, Geijer, Cronholm, and Strinnholm, -all the collections of old Icelandic, Danish, and Swedish laws, and -almost all the writers, ancient and modern, who have treated of the -language, literature, or history, of the ancient Scandinavian race. - -In modern Danish Literature, here may be found the works of Holberg, -Wessel, Ewald, Hejberg, Baggesen, Oehlenschläger, Nyerup, Ingemann, with -other celebrated authors; in Swedish, those of Leopold Oxenstjerna, -Bellmann, Franzen, Atterbom, Tegner, Frederika Bremer, and indeed almost -all the _belles-lettres_ authors of Sweden, the Transactions of the -Royal Academy of Science, (more than one hundred volumes), those of the -Swedish Academy, and of the Royal Academy of Literature, and many -collections in documentary history, besides numerous other works. - -In Spanish and Portuguese, besides many modern authors, here are -numerous old chronicles, such as the Madrid collection of old Spanish -Chronicles in seven volumes 4to.; the Portuguese _Livros_ _ineditos da -Historia Portugueza_, five volumes folio; Fernam Lopez, de Brito, Duarte -Nunez de Liam, Damiam de Goes, de Barros, Castanheda, Resende, Andrada, -Osorio; also, de Menezes, Mariana, and others of similar character. In -Italian, most of the best authors, who have acquired a European -reputation; several hundred volumes of French works, including many of -the ancient chronicles; a fine collection in German, including many -editions of Reyneke der Fuchs, the Niebelungen, and other works of the -middle ages. In classical literature, good editions of the most -celebrated Greek and Latin authors; and in English, a choice collection -of the best authors, among which should be mentioned, as rare in this -country, Lord Berners’ Froissart, Roger Ascham, the writings of King -James I., John Smith’s Virginia (edition of 1624), Amadis de Gaul, and -Palmerin of England. In lexicography, the best dictionaries and grammars -in all the languages of Western Europe, and many biographical -dictionaries and other works of reference in various languages. Many -works also on astrology, alchemy, witchcraft, and magic; and a goodly -number of works on the situation of Plato’s Atlantis and Elysian Fields, -such as Rudbeck’s Atlantica, Goropius Becanus, de Grave République des -Champs-Elysées, and a host of others in every department of learning, -the mere mention of which would cause the bookworm a thrill of delight. - -In the department of Art, Mr. Marsh possesses the Musée Français, Musée -Royal, (proof before letters) Liber Veritatis, Houghton Gallery, -Florence Gallery, Publications of Dilettanti Society, and many other -illustrated works and collections of engravings; the works of Bartsch, -Ottley Mengs, Visconti, Winckelmann, and other writers on the history -and theory of Art; old illustrated works, among which are the original -editions of Teuerdanck and Der Weiss Kunig; and many thousand steel -engravings, including many originals by Albert Dürer, Luke of Leyden, -Lucas Cranach, Aldegreuer, Wierx, the Sadelers Nauteuil, (among others -the celebrated Louis XIV., size of life, and a proof of the Cadet à la -Perle, by Masson), Edelink, Drevet, Marc Antonio, and other old -engravers of the Italian school, Callot, Ostade, Rembrandt, (including a -most superb impression of the Christ Healing the Sick, the hundred -guilder Piece, and the portrait of Renier Ansloo), Waterloo, Woollett, -Sharp, Strange, Earlom, Wille, Ficquet Schmidt, Loughi, and Morghen; in -short, nearly all the works of all the greatest masters in chalcography, -from the time of Dürer to the present day. It were folly for me to -praise these various works, and I have alluded to them merely for the -purpose of letting you know something of the taste and possessions of -Mr. Marsh. His library is one of the most delightful places it has ever -been my fortune to visit, and the day that I became acquainted with the -man, I cannot but consider as an era in my life. Morning, noon, and -evening did I linger with the master-spirits of olden time, collected in -his library, and though I often stood in mute admiration of their -genius, I was sometimes compelled to shed a tear, as I thought of the -destiny, as a writer, which will probably be mine. Thank God, there is -no such thing as ambition in that blessed world above the stars, which I -hope to attain,—no ambition to harass the soul,—for then will it be free -to revel, and for ever, in its holy and godlike conceptions. But a truce -to this strain of thought, and also to the Lions of Burlington, of whom -I now take my leave with a respectful bow. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - -Stage-coach—The Winooski—The Green Mountains—The ruined Dwelling—The -White Mountains—The Flume—A deep Pool—The Old Man of the Mountain—The -Basin—Franconia Notch—View of the Mountains—Mount Washington—The Notch -Valley. - - In a Stage-coach. June. - -Three loud knocks at my bed-room door awakened me from “a deep dream of -peace.” “The eastern stage is ready,” said my landlord, as he handed me -a light; whereupon, in less than five minutes after the hour of three, I -was on my way to the White Mountains, inditing on the tablet of my -memory, the following disjointed stage-coach rhapsody. - -A fine coach, fourteen passengers, and six superb horses. My seat is on -the outside, and my eyes on the alert for anything of peculiar interest -which I may meet with in my journey. Now do the beautiful Green -Mountains meet my view. The day is breaking, and lo! upon either side of -me, and like the two leaders of an army, rise the peaks of Mansfield -Mountain and the Camel’s Hump. Around the former the cloud-spirits of -early morning are picturing the fantastic poetry of the sky; while just -above the summit of the other, may be seen the new moon and the morning -star, waiting for the sun to come, like two sweet human sisters, for the -smiles and kisses of a returning father. And now, as the sunbeams glide -along the earth, we are in the solitude of the mountains, and the -awakened mist-creatures are ascending from the cool and silent nooks in -the deep ravines. - -Young Dana’s description of a ship under full sail is very fine, but it -does not possess the living beauty of that picture now before me, in -those six bay horses, straining every nerve to eclipse the morning -breeze. Hold your breath, for the road is hard and smooth as marble, and -the extended nostrils of those matchless steeds speak of a noble pride -within. There, the race is done, the victory theirs; and now, as they -trot steadily along, what music in the champing of those bits, and the -striking of those iron-bound hoofs! Of all the soulless animals on -earth, none do I love so dearly as the horse,—I sometimes am inclined to -think that they have souls. I respect a noble horse, more than I do some -men. Horses are the Indian chiefs of the brute creation. - -The Winooski, along whose banks runs the most picturesque stage route in -Vermont, is an uncommonly interesting stream,—rapid, clear, and cold. It -is remarkable for its falls and narrow passes, where perpendicular rocks -of a hundred feet or more, frown upon its solitary pools. Its chief -pictorial attraction is the cataract at Waterbury,—a deep and jagged -chasm in the granite mountain, whose horrors are greatly increased by -the sight and the smothered howl of an avalanche of pure white foam. On -its banks, and forty miles from its outlet near Burlington, is situated -Montpelier, the capital of Vermont. It is a compact town, mostly built -upon two streets, and completely hemmed in by rich and cultivated -mountains. Its chief attractions to my mind, however, during my short -stay, was a pair of deep black eyes, only half visible under their -drooping lids. - -During one of my rambles near Montpelier, I discovered an isolated and -abandoned dwelling, which stands upon a little plot of green, in the lap -of the forest near the top of a mountain. I entered its deserted -chambers, and spent a long time musing upon its solemn admonitions. The -cellar had become the home of lizards and toads. The spider and cricket -were masters of the hearth, where once had been spun the mountain -legend, by an old man to the only child of his widowed son. They were, -as I am told, the last of a long line, which once flourished in Britain, -and with them their name would pass into forgetfulness. Only the years -of a single generation have elapsed since then, but the dwellers upon -yonder mountain are sleeping in the grave! And is this passing record of -their existence the only inheritance they have left behind? Most true; -but would it have been _better_ for them, or for us, had they bequeathed -to the world a noted name, or immense possessions? What is our life? - -The route between Montpelier and Danville lies along the Winooski, and -is not less beautiful than that down the river. Its chief picture is -Marshfield Waterfall. While at Montpelier, a pleasure ride was got up by -some of my friends, and as they were bound to the east, and I was -honoured with an invitation, I sent on my baggage and joined them, so -that the monotony of my journey was agreeably relieved. We had our -fishing-rods with us, and having stopped at the fall, we caught a fine -mess of trout, which we had cooked for dinner at the next tavern on our -way,—and our dessert was fine singing from the ladies, and good stories -from the lips of Senator Phelps, who was of the party, and is celebrated -for his conversational powers. For further particulars concerning that -expedition, I would refer you to that pair of eyes, which I just now -mentioned as having beamed upon me with a bewitching brilliancy. But -alas! the dear creature is already,—excuse me, I cannot, I will not -speak the hateful word. The lucky fellow ought to carry a liberal and -kind soul hereafter, if he has never done so before. - -At cock-crowing this morning I was again in my seat outside of the -stage-coach, anxiously waiting for the mists to evaporate in the east. -The sun proved to be my friend, and soon as he appeared, they vanished -like a frightened troop, and he was marching up the sky in the plenitude -of his glory. And then, for the first time, did my vision rest upon the -White Mountains, as they reposed in the distance, like a mighty herd of -camels in the solitude of the desert. In the charming valley of the -Connecticut we only tarried about ten minutes, but long enough for me to -hear the mower whet his scythe, the “lark sing loud and high,” and the -pleasant tinkle of a cow-bell far away in a broad meadow. While there I -took a sketch, wherein I introduced the father of New England rivers, -and the bald peak of Mount Lafayette, with the storm-inflicted scar upon -its brow. A noble monument is yonder mountain to the memory of a noble -man. - -While breakfasting at Littleton this morning, I came to the conclusion -to leave my baggage and visit Franconia. I jumped into the stage, and -after a very pleasant ride of seventeen miles, found myself far into the -Notch, in the midst of whose scenery I am to repose this night. I -reached here in time to enjoy an early dinner with “mine host;” after -which I sallied forth to examine the wonders of the place, but was so -delighted with everything around, that I did not take time to make a -single sketch. I saw the Flume, and was astonished. It is a chasm in the -mountain, thirty feet wide, about a hundred deep, and some two thousand -long, and as regular in its shape as if it had been cut by the hand of -man. Bridging its centre is a rock of many tons weight, which one would -suppose could only have been hurled there from the heavens. Through its -centre flows a little brook, which soon passes over a succession of -rocky slides, and which are almost as smooth and white as marble. And to -cap the climax, this Flume is the centre of as perfect and holy a -wilderness of scenery as could be imagined. - -I have also seen (what should be the pride of the Merrimack, as it is -upon one of its tributaries) the most superb pool in this whole country. -The fall above it is not remarkable, but the forest-covered rocks on -either side, and the pool itself, are wonderfully fine. In the first -place, you must remember, that the waters of this whole region are cold -as ice, and very clear. The pool forms a circle of about one hundred -feet in diameter, and is said to be fifty feet in depth. Owing to the -fall, it is the “head-quarters” of the trout, which are found all along -the stream in great abundance. After I had completed a drawing, I laid -aside my pencils and fixed my fishing rod. I threw the line only about -two hours and caught forty-five trout. Among them was the -great-grandfather of all trout, as I thought at the time, he was -seventeen inches long, and weighed two pounds and one ounce. - -The Old Man of the Mountain is another of the lions of this place. It is -a cone-shaped mountain (at the foot of which is a small lake), upon -whose top are some rocks, which have a resemblance to the profile of an -old man. It is really a very curious affair. There the old fellow -stands, as he has stood perhaps for centuries, “looking the whole world -in the face.” I wonder if the thunder ever frightens him? and does the -lightning play around his brow without making him wink? His business -there, I suppose, is to protect the “ungranted lands” of New Hampshire, -or keep Isaac Hill from lecturing the White Mountains on Locofocoism. He -need not trouble himself as to the first fear, for they could not be -deeded even to a bear; and as to the second, I do not believe the -mountains could ever be persuaded to vote for the acquisition of New -Territory. Every plant upon them speaks of freedom, and in their -fastnesses does the eagle find a home,—their banner-symbols are the -stars and stripes, and therefore they must be Whigs. - -And another curiosity, which everybody goes to see, is called the -Basin,—an exquisite little spot,—fit for the abode of a very angel. It -is formed in the solid rock, and though twenty feet in depth, you can -see a sixpence at the bottom,—it is so wonderfully clear. But the wild -beauties of this Notch, unknown to fame, are charming beyond compare. -There goes the midnight warning of the clock, and I must retire. Would -that my dreams might be of yonder star, now beaming with intense -brightness above the dark outline of the nearest mountain. - -The distance from Knight’s tavern to the western outlet of Franconia -Notch is eight miles. The eastern stage was to pass through about the -middle of the afternoon, so after eating my breakfast I started on, -intending to enjoy a walk between the mountains. With the conceptions -and feelings that were with me then, I should have been willing to die, -for I was very happy. - -[Illustration: FRANCONIA NOTCH.] - -Now, as I sat upon a stone to sketch a mass of foliage, a little red -squirrel came within five feet of me, and commenced a terrible -chattering, as if his lady-love had given him the “mitten,” and he was -inveighing against the whole female sex; and now an old partridge with a -score of children came tripping along the shadowy road, almost within my -reach, and so fearless of my presence, that I would not have harmed one -of them even for a crown. Both of these were exceedingly simple -pictures, and yet they afforded me a world of pleasure. - -I thought of the favourite haunts of these dear creatures—the hollow -tree—the bed of dry leaves—the cool spring—the mossy yellow log—the -rocky ledges overgrown with moss—the gurgling brooklet stealing through -the trees, with its fairy waterfalls in a green shadow and its spots of -vivid sunlight—and of a thousand other kindred gems in the wonderful -gallery of Nature. And now as I walked onward, peering into the gloomy -recesses of the forest on either side, or fixed my eyes upon the blue -sky with a few white clouds floating in their glory, many of my -favourite songs were remembered, and, in a style peculiarly my own, I -poured them upon the air, whilst I was answered by unnumbered mountain -echoes. Nothing had they to do with the place or with each other, but -like the pictures around me, they were a divine food for my soul—so that -I was in the enjoyment of a heavenly feast. Now, as I looked through the -opening trees, I saw an eagle floating above the summit of a mighty -cliff;—now, with the speed of a falling star descending far into the -leafy depths, and then, slowly but surely ascending, until hidden from -view by a passing cloud. Fly on, proud bird, glorious symbol of my -country’s freedom! What a god-like life is thine! Thou art the “sultan -of the sky,” and from thy craggy home for ever lookest upon the abodes -of man with indifference and scorn. The war-whoop of the savage, the -roar of artillery on the bloody battle field, and the loud boom of the -ocean cannon, have fallen upon thy ear, and thou hast listened, utterly -heedless as to whom belonged the victory. What strength and power in thy -pinions! traversing in an hour a wider space - - “Than yonder gallant ship, with all her sails - Wooing the winds, can cross from morn till eve!” - -When thy hunger-shriek echoes through the wilderness, with terror does -the wild animal seek his den, for thy talons are of iron and thine eyes -of fire. But what is thy message to the sun? Far, far into the zenith -art thou gone, for ever gone—emblem of a mighty hope that once was mine. - -My thoughts were upon the earth once more, and my feet upon a hill out -of the woods, whence might be seen the long broad valley of the -Amonoosack, melting into that of the Connecticut. Long and intently did -I gaze upon the landscape, with its unnumbered farm-houses, reposing in -the sunlight, and surmounted by pyramids of light blue smoke, and also -upon the cattle gazing on a thousand hills. Presently I heard the -rattling wheels of the stage-coach;—one more look over the charming -valley, and I was in my seat beside the coachman. - -In view of the foregoing and forthcoming facts, I cannot but conclude -that I am a most lucky fellow. My ride from Franconia to Littleton was -attended with this interesting circumstance. A very pretty young lady, -who was in the stage, found it necessary to change her seat to the -outside on account of the confinement within. Of course, I welcomed her -to my side with unalloyed pleasure. The scenery was fine, but what does -my reader suppose I cared for that—as I sat there talking in a most -eloquent strain to my companion, with my right arm around her waist to -keep her from falling? That conduct of mine may appear “shocking” to -those who have “never travelled,” but it was not only an act of -politeness but of absolute necessity. Neither, as my patient’s smile -told me, “was it bad to take.” And how delightful it was to have her -cling to me, and to hear the beating of her heart, as the driver swung -his whip and ran his horses down the hills! Animal magnetism is indeed a -great invention—and I am a believer in it, so far as the touch of a -beautiful woman is concerned. - -Away, away—thoughts of the human world! for I am entering into the heart -of the White Mountains. Ah me! how can I describe these glorious -hierarchs of New England! How solemnly do they raise their rugged peaks -to heaven! Now, in token of their royalty, crowned with a diadem of -clouds; and now with every one of their cliffs gleaming in the sunlight -like the pictures of a dream! For ages, have they been the playmates of -the storm, and held communion with the mysteries of the midnight sky. -The earliest beams of the morning have bathed them in living light, and -theirs too have been the last kisses of departing day. Man and his -empires have arisen and decayed, but they have remained unchanged, a -perpetual mockery. Upon their summits, Time has never claimed dominion. -There, as of old, does the eagle teach her brood to fly, and there does -the wild bear prowl after his prey. There do the waterfalls still leap -and shout on their way to the dells below, even as when the tired Indian -hunter, some hundred ages agone, bent him to quaff the liquid element. -There still, does the rank grass rustle in the breeze, and the pine, and -cedar, and hemlock, take part in the howling of the gale. Upon Man alone -falls the heavy curse of time; Nature has never sinned, therefore is her -glory immortal. - -As is well known, the highest of these mountains was christened after -our beloved Washington; and with it, as with him, are associated the -names of Jefferson, Madison, and Adams. Its height is said to be six -thousand and eight hundred feet above the sea; but owing to its -situation in the centre of a brotherhood of hills, it does not appear to -be so grand an object as South Peak Mountain among the Catskills. Its -summit, like most of its companions, is destitute of vegetation, and -therefore more desolate and monotonous. It is somewhat of an undertaking -to ascend Mount Washington, though the trip is performed on horseback; -but if the weather is clear, the traveller will be well repaid for his -labour. The painter will be pleased with the views he may command in -ascending the route from Crawford’s, which abounds in the wildest and -most diversified charms of mountain scenery. But the prospect from the -summit of Washington, will mostly excite the soul of the poet. Not so -much on account of what he will behold, but for the breathless feeling, -which will make him deem himself, for a moment, to be an angel or a god. -And then, more than ever, if he is a Christian, will he desire to be -alone, so as to anticipate the bliss of heaven by a holy communion with -the Invisible. - -I spent a night upon this mountain; and my best view of the prospect was -at the break of day, when, as Milton says, - - “—— morn, her rosy steps in th’ Eastern clime - Advancing, sow’d the earth with orient pearls,” - -and, - - “Wak’d by the circling hours, with rosy hand - Unbarr’d the gates of light;” - -or, when in the language of Shakspeare, - - “The grey-eyed morn smiled on the frowning night, - Checkering the eastern clouds with streaks of light.” - -Wonderfully vast, and strangely indistinct and dreamy, was the scene -spread out on every side. To the west lay the superb Connecticut, with -its fertile valley reposing in the gloom of night; while to the east, -the ocean-bounded prospect, just bursting into the life of light, was -faintly relieved by Winnepiseogee and Sebago lakes; and, like rockets -along the earth, wandered away the Merrimack, the Saco, and the -Androscoggin, to their ocean home,—the whole forming an epic landscape, -such as we seldom behold excepting in our sleep. Heavens! with what -exquisite delight did I gaze upon the scene, as in the eyes of truth and -fancy it expanded before my mind. Yonder, in one of a hundred villages, -a young wife, with her first-born child at her side, was in the midst of -her morning dream; and there, the pilgrim of fourscore years was lying -on his couch in a fitful slumber, as the pains of age crept through his -frame. There, on the Atlantic shore, the fisherman in the sheltering -bay, hoisted anchor and spread his sail for the sea; and there, the -life-star of the lighthouse was extinguished, again at its stated time -to appear with increased brilliancy. In reality, there was an ocean of -mountains all around me; but in the dim light of the hour, and as I -looked down upon them, it seemed to me that I stood in the centre of a -plain, boundless as the universe; and though I could not see them, I -felt that I was in a region of spirits, and that the summit of the mount -was holy ground. But the morning was advancing, the rising mists -obscured my vision, and as I did not wish to have that day-break picture -dissipated from my mind, I mounted my faithful horse, and with a solemn -awe at heart, descended the mountain. - -The ride from the Notch House, (kept by the celebrated hunter, named -Crawford), through the Notch Valley, some twelve miles long, is -magnificent. First is the Gap itself, only some twenty feet in width, -and overhung with jagged rocks of wondrous height; and then the tiny -spring, alive with trout, which gives birth to the untamed Saco. A few -more downward steps, and you are in full view of a bluff, whose -storm-scathed brow seems to prop the very heavens, its grey shadows -strongly contrasting with the deep blue sky. A little further on, and -you find yourself in an amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits and -sides are barren and desolate, where the storms of a thousand years have -exhausted their fury. Downward still, and farther on, and you come to -the memorable Wiley cottage, whose inhabitants perished in the avalanche -or slide of 1826. The storm had been unceasing for some days upon the -surrounding country, and the dwellers of the cottage were startled at -midnight by the falling earth. They fled, and were buried in an instant; -and up to the present time, only one of the seven bodies has ever been -found. As it then stood, the dwelling still stands—a monument of -mysterious escape, as well as of the incomprehensible decrees of -Providence. The Saco river, which runs through the valley, was lifted -from its original bed, and forced into a new channel. The whole place, -which but a short time before was “a beautiful and verdant opening amid -the surrounding rudeness and deep shadow, is now like a stretch of -desolate sea-shore after a tempest,—full of wrecks, buried in sand and -rocks, crushed and ground to atoms.” - -After witnessing so much of the grand and gloomy, I was glad to retrace -my course back to a more tame country. My last view of Mount Washington -and its lordly companions was the most beautiful. The sun was near his -setting, and the whole sky was suffused with a glow of richest yellow -and crimson, while to the eastward hung two immense copper-coloured -clouds just touching the outline of the mountains; and through the hazy -atmosphere the mountains themselves looked cloud-like, but with more of -the bright blue of heaven upon them. In the extensive middle distance -faded away wood-crowned hills, and in the foreground an exquisite little -farm, with the husbandman’s happy abode almost hidden by groups of elms, -and with the simple figures, only a few paces off, of a little girl -sitting on a stone, with a bunch of summer flowers in her hand, and a -basket of berries and a dog at her side. One more yearning gaze upon the -dear old mountains, and I resumed my pilgrimage towards the north. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - -Montreal. - - Montreal. June. - -With some things in Montreal I have been pleased, but with others a good -deal dissatisfied. The appearance which it presents from every point of -view is imposing in the extreme. Its numerous church towers and -extensive blocks of stores, its extensive shipping and noble stone -wharves, combine to give one an idea of great wealth and liberality. On -first riding to my hotel I was struck with the cleanliness of its -streets; and, on being shown to my room, I was convinced that the hotel -itself (Donegana’s) was of the first water. It abounds in public -buildings, which are usually built of lime-stone, and the city extends -along the river St. Lawrence about three miles. The streets in the older -parts of the town are as picturesque and narrow as those of the more -ancient cities of the old world, but in the modern portions they are -quite regular and comfortable. The principal street is Notre Dame, which -always presents, on a pleasant day, a gay and elegant appearance. - -Generally speaking, its churches are below mediocrity, but it has one -architectural lion worth mentioning, the Catholic Cathedral. It faces a -square called Place d’Armes, and presents an imposing appearance. It is -built of stone, and said to be after the Norman-Gothic order of -architecture, but I should think it a mixture of a dozen _dis-orders_. -Its extreme length is two hundred and fifty-five feet, breadth one -hundred and thirty-five, and its height seventy-two feet. It has also -two towers, which measure two hundred and twenty feet to their summit. -The windows in these towers are closed with coarse boards; and yet it -cost four hundred thousand dollars. The ground-floor is covered with -pews capable of seating eight thousand people, while the aisles and -galleries might hold two thousand more. The galleries are supported by -wooden pillars, which reminded me of a New York barber’s sign. The -interior has a naked and doleful appearance; the large window above the -altar is wretchedly painted; the altar itself is loaded with gewgaws, -and, of the many paintings which meet you in every direction, there is -not one for which I would pay ten dollars. The organ resembles a -bird-house, and the music perpetrated there every day in the year would -jar upon the ear of even an American Indian. And when it is remembered -that this church was built by one of the wealthiest corporations on the -continent, it is utterly impossible to entertain a feeling of charity -towards the founders thereof. - -The population of Montreal is now estimated at forty thousand, one-half -of whom are Roman Catholics, one quarter Protestants, and the remainder -nothing in particular. By this statement it will be readily seen that -the establishments of the Catholics must be the most abundant. Nunneries -are consequently very numerous, some of them well endowed; and to those -who have a passion for such affairs must be exceedingly interesting. - -But I wish to mention one or two more specimens of architecture. The -market of Montreal is built of stone, situated near the river, and -remarkably spacious and convenient in all its arrangements. It eclipses -anything of the kind that we can boast of in the States. The only -monument in the city of any note is a Doric column, surmounted with a -statue, and erected in honour of Lord Nelson. The entire column is -seventy feet high, and gives an air of elegance to that portion of Notre -Dame where it stands. On the four sides of the pedestal are pictorial -representations, in alto relievo, representing Nelson in some of his -memorable battles. It was erected by the British inhabitants of Montreal -at a cost of near six thousand dollars. - -One of the more striking peculiarities of this city is the fact that -every body has to live, walk, and sleep at the point of a bayonet. -Military quarters are stationed in various portions of the city, and -soldiers meet you at every corner, marching to and fro, and sometimes -puffed up with ignorance and vanity. The last woman, I am sorry to say, -who has become an outcast from society, attributes her misfortune to a -soldier; but the officers of the British army stationed here are -generally well-educated and agreeable gentlemen. - -The people whom you meet in the streets of Montreal seem to come from -almost every nation in the world. Now it may be the pompous Englishman, -who represents some wilderness district in Parliament, and now it may be -the cunning Scotchman, or a half-famished Irishman. Sometimes it is the -speculating American, or the humble, but designing Jew, the gay and -polite Habitan, or a group of wandering Indians from the far north. The -better class of Montreal people (so called by a fashionable world) are -the British settlers, or rather the English population. Generally -speaking, they are highly intelligent, somewhat arbitrary in expressing -their opinions, but they entertain hospitable feelings towards -strangers. They boast of their mother-country, as if her glory and power -were omnipotent, and an occasional individual may be found who will not -scruple to insult an American if he happens to defend his own. In -religion, they are generally Episcopalians; they hate the Habitan, look -with contempt upon the poor Irish, and address their brethren of -Scotland with a patronising air. They drink immense quantities of wine; -and those who happen to be the illiterate members of the Provincial -Parliament, think themselves the greatest people on earth. - -The island upon which Montreal is situated is seventy miles in -circumference, and was once (if not now) the property of an order of -Catholic priesthood. In the rear of the city rises a noble hill, called -Mount Royal, from which it derives its name. The hill itself is thickly -wooded, but the surrounding country is exceedingly fertile, and studded -with elegant country seats and the rural abodes of the peasantry. A ride -around the Mount, on a pleasant day, is one of the most delightful -imaginable, commanding a view of Montreal and the St. Lawrence valley, -which is grand beyond compare. - -To appreciate the unique features of Montreal, it is necessary that you -should be there on the Sabbath, the gala-day of the Catholics. Then it -is that the peasantry flock into the city from all directions, and, when -they are pouring into the huge Cathedral by thousands, dressed in a -thousand fantastic fashions, cracking their jokes and laughing as they -move along, the entire scene is apt to fill one with peculiar feelings. -It was beautiful to look at; but the thought struck me that I should -hate to live in the shadow of that Cathedral for ever. But if you chance -to take a walk in the suburbs on a Sabbath afternoon, you will notice -much that cannot but afford you real satisfaction. You will find almost -every cottage a fit subject for a picture, and the flocks of -neatly-dressed, happy, and polite children playing along the roads, -together with frequent groups of sober men, sitting in a porch, and the -occasional image of a beautiful girl or contented mother leaning out of -a window—all these things, I say, constitute a charm which is not met -with everywhere. But enough. Montreal is a fine city, and I trust that -it will yet be my fortune to visit it again, and see more of its -polished society. - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - -Quebec. - - Quebec. June. - -I came from Montreal to this city in the day time, and consequently had -an opportunity of examining this portion of the St. Lawrence. The river -opposite Montreal runs at the rate of six miles per hour, and is two -miles wide; it preserves this breadth for about sixty miles, and then -expands into the beautiful and emerald-looking Lake of St. Peter, after -which it varies from one to five in width until it reaches Quebec, which -is distant from Montreal one hundred and eighty miles. Above St. Peter, -the shores vary from five to fifteen feet in height, but below the lake -they gradually become more elevated, until they measure some three -hundred feet in the vicinity of Quebec. The country between the two -Canadian cities is well cultivated, and on either side may be seen a -continued succession of rural cottages. - -Our steamer approached Quebec at the sunset hour, and I must say that I -have never witnessed a more superb prospect than the lofty Citadel-city, -the contracted St. Lawrence, the opposite headland called Point Levi, -and the far-distant land, which I knew to be Cape Tourment. A stiff -breeze was blowing at the time, and some twenty ships were sailing to -and fro, while we had to make our way into port by winding between and -around some three hundred ships which were at anchor. - -I have seen much in this goodly city which has made a deep impression on -my mind. The promontory called Cape Diamond, upon which it stands, is -formed by the junction of the St. Charles and St. Lawrence rivers, and -rises to the height of three hundred and fifty feet above the water. The -city is built from the water’s edge along the base of the cliff, and -from thence in a circuitous manner ascends to the very borders of the -Citadel and ramparts. There is but one street leading from the Lower to -the Upper Town, and that is narrow and very steep, and the gateway is -defended by a number of large cannon. The city is remarkably irregular, -and, as many of the buildings are very ancient, its appearance is -picturesque and romantic. The fortifications cover an area of forty -acres, and beneath them are many spacious and gloomy vaults, for the -reception of ammunition and stores during a time of war. Receding into -the interior, from the very brow of the Fortress, are the Plains of -Abraham, which are covered with a rich green sod, and planted with -unnumbered cannon. Their historical associations are numerous, and, as -they would fill a chapter in themselves, I will refrain from dwelling -upon them at this time. - -The religious establishments of Quebec are numerous, and belong mostly -to the Roman Catholics; like those of Montreal they are very ancient and -well endowed; but they did not interest me, and I am sure my description -of them would not interest my reader. As a matter of course, I visited -the French Cathedral. It seems to be as old as the hills, and yet all -the windows of the principal tower are roughly boarded up. On entering -the edifice, which is crowded with gilded ornaments, I could not fix my -eye upon a single object which suggested the idea of richness. The -sculpture, the paintings, and even the gilding, are all without merit; -and what greatly added to my disgust was, that I could not obtain a -civil answer from a single one of the many boorish boys and men, who -were fussing about the church. - -In the front of an extensive promenade, just below the Citadel, stands -the monument erected to the memory of Montcalm and Wolfe. The gentleman -who contributed the largest sum for its erection, was Lord Dalhousie. It -is a handsome obelisk, and was designed by a military gentleman named -Young. The principal inscription on the column is characteristic of the -English nation, and is what an American would call “a puff of -Dalhousie”—even though it be chiselled in Latin. The annoying effect of -this inscription, however, is counteracted by another, which is also in -Latin, and very beautiful. It was composed by J. C. Fisher, Esq., LL.D., -founder of the Quebec Gazette, and is as follows: - - “Military virtue gave them a common death, - History a common fame, - Posterity a common monument.” - -The Golden Dog is another curiosity which will attract the attention of -the visitor to Quebec. It is the figure of a dog, rudely sculptured in -_relievo_, and richly gilded, which stands above the entrance of an -ancient house, which was built by M. Phillibert, a merchant of this -city, in the time of M. Bigot, the last Intendant under the French -Government. Connected with it is the following curious story, which I -copy from an old record: - -“M. Phillibert and the Intendant were on bad terms, but, under the -system then existing, the merchant knew that it was in vain for him to -seek redress in the colony; and, determining at some future period to -prefer his complaint in France, he contented himself with placing the -figure of a sleeping dog in front of his house, with the following lines -beneath it, in allusion to his situation with his powerful enemy: - - “‘Je suis un chien qui ronge l’os, - En le rongeant je prends mon repos— - Un tems viendra qui n’est pas venu— - Que je mordrai qui m’aura mordu.’ - -“This allegorical language was, however, too plain for M. Bigot to -misunderstand it. A man so powerful easily found an instrument to avenge -the insult, and M. Phillibert received, as the reward of his verse, the -sword of an officer of the garrison through his back, when descending -the Lower Town Hill. The murderer was permitted to leave the colony -unmolested, and was transferred to a regiment stationed in the East -Indies. Thither he was pursued by a brother of the deceased, who had -first sought him in Canada, when he arrived to settle his brother’s -affairs. The parties, it is related, met in the public street of -Pondicherry, drew their swords, and, after a severe conflict, the -assassin met a more honourable fate than his crime deserved, and died by -the hand of his antagonist.” - -I know not that there are any other curiosities in Quebec really worth -mentioning, and I willingly turn to its natural attractions. The -Fortress itself is undoubtedly one, if not the most formidable on the -Continent, but I fell in love with it on account of its _observatory_ -features. To ramble over its commanding ramparts, without knowing or -caring to know a solitary individual, has been to me an agreeable and -unique source of entertainment. At one time I leaned upon the -balustrade, and looked down upon the Lower Town. It was near the hour of -noon. Horses and carriages, men, women, and children, were hurrying -through the narrow streets, and ships were in the docks discharging -their cargoes. I looked down upon all these things at a single glance, -and yet the only noise I heard was a hum of business. Even the loud -clear shout of the sailor, as he tugged away at the mast-head of his -ship, could hardly be heard stealing upward on the air. Doves were -flying about high above the roofs, but they were so far below my point -of vision, that I could not hear the beating of their wings. - -But the finest prospect that I have enjoyed in this city was from the -summit of the Signal-House, which looms above the Citadel. I visited -this spot just as the sun was setting, and every thing was enveloped in -a golden atmosphere. Beneath me lay the city, gradually lulling itself -to repose; on the west, far as the eye could reach, faded away the -valley of the Upper St. Lawrence; towards the north, winding its way -between high and well-cultivated hills, was the river St. Charles; -towards the eastward, rolling onward in its sublimity like an ocean -across the continent, was the flood of the Lower St. Lawrence, whitened -by more than a hundred sails; and towards the south reposed a -picturesque country of hills and dales, beyond which I could just -discern some of the mountain-peaks of my own dear “Fatherland.” Strange -and beautiful beyond compare was the entire panorama, and how was its -influence upon me deepened, as a strain of martial music broke upon the -silent air, and then melted into my very heart! I knew not whence it -came, or who were the musicians, but I “blessed them unaware,” and as my -vision again wandered over the far-off hills, I was quite happy. - -The population of Quebec is estimated at thirty thousand, and the -variety is as great as in Montreal. A large proportion of the people -whom you see parading the streets are soldiers, and chief among them I -would mention the Scotch Highlanders, who are a noble set of men, and -dress in handsome style. - -[Illustration: FALLS OF MONTMORENCY.] - -Quebec, upon the whole, is a remarkable place, and well worth visiting. -The environs of the city are also interesting, and a ride to the Falls -of Montmorency, seven miles down the river, and back again by an -interior road, will abundantly repay the tourist for all the trouble and -expense to which he may be subjected. - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - -A sail down the St. Lawrence—Sword-Fish—Chasing a Whale. - - Tadousac. June. - -I have not visited Canada for the purpose of examining her cities, and -studying the character of her people, but solely with a view of hunting -up some new scenery, and having a little sport in the way of salmon -fishing. I am writing this chapter at the mouth of probably the most -remarkable river in North America. But, before entering upon a -description of my sojourn here, it is meet, I ween, that I should record -an account of my journey down the St. Lawrence. - -On reaching Quebec, I was informed that there was no regular mode of -conveyance down the great river, and that I should have to take passage -in a transient ship or schooner, which would land me at my desired -haven. This intelligence had a tendency to damp my spirits, and I had to -content myself by sauntering about the Citadel-city. Among the places I -visited was the fish market, where it was my good fortune to find a -small smack, which had brought a load of fresh salmon to market, and was -on the point of returning to the Saguenay for another cargo. In less -than thirty minutes after I first saw him, I had struck a bargain with -the skipper, transferred my luggage on board the smack, and was on my -way to a region which was to me unknown. - -We hoisted sail at twelve o’clock, and were favoured by a stiff westerly -breeze. Everything, in fact, connected with the voyage was beautifully -accidental, and I had a “glorious time.” In the first place, our craft -was just the thing—schooner-rigged, a fast sailer, and perfectly safe. -The skipper, named Belland, was a warm-hearted and intelligent -Frenchman, whose entire crew consisted of one boy. The day was superb, -and the scenery of the river appeared to me more like the work of -enchantment than nature. - -The appearance of Quebec, from the eastward, is imposing in the extreme. -Standing as it does upon a lofty bluff, its massive ramparts, and -tin-covered roofs, domes, and cupolas, suggest the idea of immense power -and opulence. Just below the city, the St. Lawrence spreads out to the -width of three or four miles, while from the margin of either shore fade -away a continued succession of hills, which vary from five hundred to -fifteen hundred feet in height. Those upon the north shore are the -highest, and both sides of the river, for a distance of some twenty -miles below the city, are plentifully sprinkled with the white cottages -of the Canadian peasantry. As you proceed, however, the river gradually -widens, the hills upon the north shore become more lofty, reaching the -elevation of two thousand feet; and, while you only occasionally -discover a farm-house upon their summits, the southern shore continues -to bear the appearance of a settled country, where the spire of a -Catholic Church is frequently seen looming above a cluster of rural -residences. In descending the river, the first pictorial feature which -attracts attention is the Fall of Montmorency, pouring the waters of a -noble tributary immediately into the St. Lawrence. Just below this fall -the river is divided by the island of Orleans, which measures about -twenty miles in length, and five in breadth. It is partly covered with -forest, and partly cultivated, and, though the shores are rather low, it -contains a number of points which are a hundred feet high. At the -eastern termination of this island is the parish of St. Laurent, a -remarkably tidy French village, whose inhabitants are said to be as -simple in their manners as they are virtuous and ignorant of the world -at large. On a smaller island, which lies some thirty miles below -Quebec, and directly opposite a noble cape called Tourment, the -quarantine station for the shipping of the river is situated; and when I -passed this spot I counted no less than forty-five ships at anchor, -nearly all of which were freighted with foreign paupers, who were then -dying of the ship fever at the rate of one hundred and fifty individuals -per day. I might here mention that the vessels usually seen on this part -of the St. Lawrence are merchant ships and brigs, which are chiefly and -extensively employed in the lumber and timber trade. Another island in -this portion of the St. Lawrence, which attracts attention from its -peculiar sylvan beauty, is called Goose Island, and owned by a -Sisterhood of Nuns, who have cultivated it extensively. The eastern -portion of it is yet covered with forest; the channels on either side -are not far from five miles wide, and it is distant about fifty miles -from Quebec. - -We landed here at sunset; and while my companions were building a -watch-fire and cooking a supper of fish, pork, and onions, I amused -myself by taking sundry observations. I found the vegetation of the -island very luxuriant, the common hard woods of the north prevailing; -but its foundation seemed to be composed of two distinct species of -sandstone. Both varieties were of the finest grain, and while one was of -a rich Indian red, the other was a deep blue. This portion of the St. -Lawrence is a good deal blocked up by extensive reefs composed of these -identical sandstones, and at one point they extend so nearly across the -river as to render the ship navigation extremely dangerous. On -subsequently examining the high hills on the north shore, in this -vicinity, I found them to be of solid granite, veined with red marble -and extensive beds of quartz, and covered with a stunted forest of pine -and hemlock. But this geological dissertation is keeping my pen from -describing a night picture, which it was my privilege to witness on this -beautiful but badly named island, where, for sundry reasons, we intended -to spend the night. - -Our supper was ended, and the skipper had paid his last visit to the -little craft, and, with his boy, had smoked himself to sleep by our -camp-fire. The sky was without a cloud, but studded with stars, and the -breeze which kissed my cheek was soft and pleasant as the breath of one -we dearly love. I had seated myself upon a rock, with my face turned -towards the north, when my attention was attracted by a column of light -which shot upward to the zenith behind the distant mountains. The broad -expanse of the St. Lawrence was without a ripple, and the mountains, -together with the column of light and the unnumbered stars, were -distinctly mirrored in its bosom. - -While looking upon this scene, the idea struck me that the moon was -about to rise; but I soon saw a crimson glow stealing up the sky, and -knew that I was looking upon the fantastic performances of the Northern -Lights. Broad, and of the purest white, were the many rays which shot -upward from behind the mountain: and at equal distances between the -horizon and the zenith were displayed four arches of a purple hue, the -uppermost one melting imperceptibly in the deep blue sky. On again -turning my eyes upward, I discovered that the columns and arches had all -disappeared, and that the entire sky was covered with a crimson colour, -which resembled a lake of liquid fire tossed into innumerable waves. -Strange were my feelings as I looked upon this scene, and thought of the -unknown wilderness before me, and of the Being whose ways are past -finding out, and who holdeth the entire world, with its cities, -mountains, rivers, and boundless wildernesses, in the hollow of his -hand. - -Long and intently did I gaze upon this wonder of the north; and at the -moment that it was fading away, a wild swan passed over my head, sailing -towards Hudson’s Bay, and as his lonely song echoed along the silent -air, I retraced my steps to the watch-fire and was soon a dreamer. - -That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between Goose Island and the -Saguenay, is about twenty miles wide. The spring tides rise and fall a -distance of eighteen feet; the water is salt, but clear and cold, and -the channel very deep. Here it was that I first saw the black seal, the -white porpoise, and the black whale. But speaking of whales reminds me -of a “whaling” fish story. A short distance above the Saguenay river -there shoots out into the St. Lawrence, to the distance of about eight -miles, a broad sand-bank, which greatly endangers the navigation. In -descending the great river we had to double this cape, and it was at -this point that I first saw a whale. The fellow had been pursued by a -sword-fish, and when we discovered him his head was turned towards the -beach, and he was moving with great rapidity, occasionally performing a -most fearful leap, and uttering a sound that resembled the bellowing of -a thousand bulls. The whale must have been forty feet long, and his -enemy nearly twenty; and as they hurried on their course with great -speed, the sight was indeed terrible. Frantic with rage and pain, it so -happened that the more unwieldly individual forgot his bearings, and in -a very few minutes he was floundering about on the sand-bar in about ten -feet of water, when the rascally sword-fish immediately beat a retreat. -After awhile, however, the whale resolved to rest himself; but, as the -tide was going out, his intentions were soon changed, and he began to -roll himself about and slap the water with his tail for the purpose of -getting clear. His efforts in a short time proved successful; and when -we last saw him he was in the deepest part of the river, moving rapidly -towards the Gulf, and spouting up the water as if congratulating himself -upon his narrow escape. - -In about two hours after witnessing this incident, our boat was moored -at the mouth of the Saguenay; and of the comparatively unknown -wilderness which this stream waters, my readers will find some -information in the next chapter. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - -The Saguenay River—Chicoutimi—Storm Picture—Hudson’s Bay -Company—Eminent Merchant—The Mountaineer Indians—Tadousac—Ruin -of a Jesuit Establishment. - - Tadousac. July. - -About one hundred and fifty miles north of the St. Lawrence, and on one -of the trails leading to Hudson’s Bay, lies a beautiful Lake called St. -John. It is about forty miles long, and surrounded with a heavily -timbered and rather level country. Its inlets are numerous, and twelve -of them are regular rivers. Its waters are clear, and abound in a great -variety of uncommonly fine fish. The principal outlet to this Lake is -the Saguenay river, which takes a southerly direction, and empties into -the St. Lawrence. It is the largest tributary of the great river, and -unquestionably one of the most remarkable on the continent. Its original -Indian name was Chicoutimi, signifying _Deep Water_; but the early -Jesuit missionaries, who have scattered their _Saint-anic_ names over -this entire country, thought proper to give it the name which it now -bears, and the round-about interpretation of which is, _Nose of the -Sack_. This name suggests to the world that the nose of St. John must -have been a very long nose, and may be looked upon as a unique specimen -of French poetry. - -The scenery of the Saguenay is wild and romantic to an uncommon degree. -The first half of its course averages half a mile in width, and runs -through an untrodden wilderness of pine and spruce covered hills. It -abounds in waterfalls and rapids, and is only navigable for the Indian -canoe. A few miles below the most southern fall on the river the village -of Chicoutimi is situated, where an extensive lumbering business is -transacted, and the Hudson’s Bay Company have an important post. The -village has an ancient appearance, and contains about five hundred -inhabitants, chiefly Canadian French. The only curiosity in the place is -a rude Catholic Church, which is said to have been built by Jesuit -missionaries upwards of one hundred years ago. It occupies the centre of -a grassy lawn, surrounded with shrubbery, backed by a cluster of -wood-crowned hills, and commands a fine prospect, not only of the -Saguenay, but also of a spacious bay, into which there empties a noble -mountain stream, now known as Chicoutimi River. In the belfry of this -venerable church hangs a clear-toned bell, with an inscription upon it -which the learning of Canada (with all its learned and unnumbered -priests) has not yet been able to translate or expound. But, great as is -the mystery of this inscription, it is less mysterious to my mind than -are the motives of the Romish Church in planting the cross in the -remotest corners of the earth, as well as in the mightiest of cities. - -About ten miles south of Chicoutimi there recedes from the west bank of -the Saguenay, to the distance of ten miles, a beautiful expanse of water -called Grand Bay. The original name of this bay was “Ha, Ha,” -descriptive of the surprise which the French experienced when they first -entered into it, supposing that it was the Saguenay, until their shallop -grounded on the north-western shore. At the head thereof is another -settlement, similar to Chicoutimi. Between these two places the Saguenay -is rather shallow, (when compared with the remainder of its course,) and -varies in width from two and a half to three miles. The tides of the -ocean are observable as far north as Chicoutimi, and this entire section -of the river is navigable for ships of the largest class. - -That portion of the Saguenay extending from Grand Bay to the St. -Lawrence, a distance of sixty miles, is greatly distinguished for its -wild and picturesque scenery. I know not that I can better pourtray to -my reader’s mind the peculiarity of this river than by the following -method: imagine for a moment an extensive country of rocky and -thinly-clad mountains, suddenly separated by some convulsion of Nature -so as to form an almost bottomless chasm, varying from one to two miles -in width; and then imagine this chasm suddenly half-filled with water, -and that the moss of centuries has softened the rugged walls on either -side, and you will have a pretty accurate idea of the Saguenay. - -The shores of this river are composed principally of granite, and every -bend presents you with an imposing bluff, the majority of which are -eight hundred feet high, and many of them upwards of fifteen hundred. -And, generally speaking, these towering bulwarks are not content to loom -perpendicularly into the air, but they must needs bend over as if to -look at their own savage features reflected in the deep. Ay, and that -word deep tells but the simple truth; for the flood that rolls beneath -is black and cold as the bottomless pit. To speak without a figure, and -from actual measurement, I can state that many portions of the Saguenay -are one thousand feet deep, and the shallowest spots not much less than -one hundred. In many places, too, the water is as deep as five feet from -the rocky barriers as it is in the centre of the stream. The feelings -which filled my breast, and the thoughts which oppressed my brain, as I -paddled by these places in my canoe, were allied to those which almost -overwhelmed me when I first looked upward from below the Fall, to the -mighty flood of Niagara. Awful beyond expression, I can assure you, is -the sensation which one experiences in sailing along the Saguenay, to -raise his eyes heavenward and behold hanging directly over his head a -mass of granite, apparently ready to totter and fall, and weighing -perhaps a million tons. Terrible and sublime, beyond the imagery of the -most daring poet, are these cliffs; and, while they proclaim the -omnipotent power of God, they at the same time whisper into the ear of -man that he is but as the moth which flutters in the noontide air. And -yet, is it not enough to fill the heart of man with holy pride and -unbounded love, to remember that the soul within him will but have -commenced its existence when all the mountains of the world shall have -been consumed as a scroll? - -It is to the Saguenay that I am indebted for one of the most imposing -storm pictures that I ever witnessed. It had been a most oppressive day, -and, as I was passing up the river at a late hour in the afternoon, a -sudden gust of wind came rushing down the stream, causing my Indian -companion to bow, as if in prayer, and then to urge our frail canoe -towards a little rocky island, upon which we immediately landed. - -Soon as we had surmounted our refuge, the sky was overcast with a pall -of blackness, which completely enveloped the cliffs on either side, and -gave the roaring waters a death-like hue. Then broke forth from above -our heads the heavy roar of thunder, and, as it gradually increased in -compass and became more threatening and impetuous, its volleys were -answered by a thousand echoes, which seemed to have been startled from -every crag in the wilderness, while flashes of the most vivid lightning -were constantly illuminating the gloomy storm-made cavern which appeared -before us. Down upon his knees again fell my poor Indian comrade, and, -while I sat by his side, trembling with terror, the thought actually -flew into my mind that I was on the point of passing into eternity. -Soon, however, the wind ceased blowing, the thunder to roar, and the -lightning to flash; and in less than one hour after its commencement, -the storm had subsided, and that portion of the Saguenay was glowing -beneath the crimson rays of the setting sun. - -From what I have written, my reader may be impressed with the idea that -this river is incapable of yielding pleasurable sensations. Sail along -its shores on a pleasant day, when its cliffs are partly hidden in -shadow, and covered with a gauze-like atmosphere, and they will fill -your heart with images of beauty. Or, if you would enjoy a still greater -variety, let your thoughts flow away upon the blue smoke which rises -from an Indian encampment, hidden in a dreamy-looking cove; let your eye -follow an eagle swooping along his airy pathway near the summit of the -cliffs, or glance across the watery plain, and see the silver salmon -leaping by hundreds into the air for their insect food. Here, too, you -may always discover a number of seals, bobbing their heads out of water, -as if watching your every movement; and, on the other hand, a drove of -white porpoises, rolling their huge bodies along the waters, ever and -anon spouting a shower of liquid diamonds into the air. O yes, manifold -indeed, and beautiful beyond compare, are the charms of the Saguenay! - -[Illustration: CAPE TRINITY.] - -Although my description of this river has thus far been of a general -character, I would not omit to mention, as perfect gems of scenery, -Trinity Point, Eternity Cape, the Tableau, and la Tête du Boule. The -peculiarities of these promontories are so well described by their very -names, that I shall refrain from attempting a particular description of -my own. - -The wilderness through which this river runs is of such a character that -its shores can never be greatly changed in their external appearance. -Only a small proportion of its soil can ever be brought under -cultivation; and, as its forests are a good deal stunted, its lumbering -resources are far from being inexhaustible. The wealth which it contains -is probably of a mineral character; and if the reports I hear are -correct, it abounds in iron ore. That it would yield an abundance of -fine marble, I am certain; for in passing up this stream, the observing -eye will frequently fall upon a broad vein of an article as pure as -alabaster. - -How is it, many people are led to inquire, that so little has been known -of the Saguenay country until recently? This question is easily solved. -It is a portion of that vast territory which has heretofore been under -the partial jurisdiction of the Hudson’s Bay Company. I say partially, -for the rights of that powerful monopoly, as I understand the matter, -extended only to the protection and use of its wild animals; but it has -endeavoured to convince the would-be settler that it was the sole -proprietor of the immense domain, and that he had no right to live -thereon. Its posts on the Saguenay and St. Lawrence, so far as -collecting furs is concerned, are a dead letter, and the journeys of its -distinguished Governor are hereafter to be confined to the extreme -north. - -The man who deserves the most credit for encroaching upon the so-called -possessions of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and proving to the world that -its power is not without limit, is William Price, Esq., of Quebec. All -the saw-mills situated on the Saguenay and the lower St. Lawrence, were -established by him, and are now conducted at his expense. He gives -employment to some two or three thousand men, and sends to England -annually about one hundred ship-loads of lumber, in the shape of deals. -He is a thorough-going business man, and, did I not know the fact to be -otherwise, I should set him down (with regard to his enterprise) as a -thorough native of the Union. Many of the ships alluded to ascend the -Saguenay to obtain lumber, as far as Chicoutimi; and it struck me as -singularly paradoxical to see ships winding up that river, whose -legitimate home would seem to be the broad ocean. The current of the -Saguenay flows in some places at the rate of seven miles per hour; but -when there is any wind at all, it blows heavily directly from the north -or south, so that, with the assistance of the tide, the upward-bound -ships or brigs, manage to get along without much difficulty. The only -steam-boat which navigates this river is the Pocahontas, and is the -property of Mr. Price. She is commanded by a gentleman who understands -his business; and I can assure the lovers of scenery everywhere, that a -sail up the Saguenay, in this steamer, would be an event they could not -easily forget. For the benefit of summer tourists, I would here mention -the fact, that for about three months in the year a Quebec steamer makes -an occasional trip to the mouth of the Saguenay, by the way of the river -Du Loup, which is on the Canadian route to Halifax. - -In speaking of the Saguenay, I must not omit to mention its original -proprietors, a tribe of Indians who are known as the Mountaineers. Of -course, it is the duty of my pen to record the fact, that where once -flourished a large nation of brave and heroic warriors, there now exists -a little band of about one hundred families. Judging from what I have -heard and seen, the Mountaineers were once the very flower of this -northern wilderness, even as the Chippeways were once the glory of the -Lake Superior region. The Mountaineers of the present day are -sufficiently educated to speak a smattering of French, but they know -nothing of the true God, and are as poor in spirit, as they are indigent -with regard to the necessaries of life. The men of this nation are -rather short, but well-formed, and the women are beautiful. They are -proud in spirit, intelligent, and kind-hearted; and many of them, it is -pleasant to know, are no longer the victims of the baneful fire-water. -For this blessing they are indebted to the Romish priesthood, which fact -it gives me pleasure to record. The Mountaineers are a particularly -honest people, and great friends to the stranger white-man. They are -also distinguished for their expertness in hunting, and take pleasure in -recording the exploits of their forefathers. And their language, -according to a Catholic Missionary, Pierre de Roche, is one of the -oldest and purest Indian languages on the continent. It abounds in Latin -words, and is capable of being regularly constructed and translated. The -qualities, in fine, which make the history of this people interesting -are manifold, and it is sad to think of the rapidity with which they are -withering away, even as the leaves of a premature autumn. - -But it is time that I should give you a brief description of Tadousac, -where I have been spending a few days, and whence I date my chapter. The -meaning of that word is a French corruption of the Indian word Saguenay. -It is situated directly at the mouth of the Saguenay, and commands a -fine prospect of that river, as well as of the St. Lawrence, which is -here nearly thirty miles in width. Immediately at the base of the hill -upon which the hamlet stands, is a beautiful bay, hemmed in with -mountains of solid rock. The place is composed of houses belonging to an -Indian trading-post, and another dwelling occupied by a worthy Scotchman -named Rivington, who is a pilot by profession. The door of my friend’s -cabin is always open to the admission of the tourist; and if others who -may chance to stop here are treated as kindly as I was, they will be -disposed to thank their stars. In front of the trading-post are planted -a few cannon, and directly beyond them, at the present time, is a small -Indian encampment. - -In a rock-bound bay, about half a mile north of my temporary residence, -is an extensive lumbering establishment, belonging to William Price. -This spot is the principal port of the Saguenay, and the one where -belongs the Pocahontas steam-boat. About a dozen paces from the table -where I am now writing, is the ruin of a Jesuit religious establishment, -which is considered the great curiosity of this region. The appearance -of the ruin is not imposing, as you can discover nothing but the -foundations upon which the ancient edifice rested; but it is confidently -affirmed, that upon this spot once stood the first stone and mortar -building ever erected on the continent of North-America. And this -statement I am not disposed to question, for, from the very centre of -the ruin have grown a cluster of pine trees, which must have been -exposed to the wintry blasts of at least two hundred years. The fate and -the very names of those who first pitched their tents in this -wilderness, and here erected an altar to the God of their fathers, are -alike unknown. Who—who can tell what shall be on the morrow? - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - -The Salmon—Salmon Adventures. - - Tadousac. June. - -I intend to devote the present letter to the acknowledged king of all -the finny tribes, the lithe, wild, and beautiful salmon. He pays an -annual visit to all the tributaries of the St. Lawrence lying between -Quebec and Bic Island, (where commences the Gulf of St. Lawrence), but -he is most abundant on the north shore, and in those streams which are -beyond the jurisdiction of civilization. He usually makes his first -appearance about the twentieth of May, and continues in season for two -months. Nearly all the streams of this region abound in waterfalls, but -those are seldom found, which the salmon does not surmount in his -“excelsior” pilgrimage; and the stories related of his leaps are truly -wonderful. It is not often that he is found _man bound_ at the head of -the streams he may have ascended; but when thus found and captured, his -flesh is white, skin black, and his form “long, lank, and lean as is the -rebbid sea-sand.” His weight is commonly about fifteen pounds, but he is -sometimes taken weighing full forty pounds. The salmon is an important -article of export from this region, and is also extensively used by the -Indians. The common mode for taking them is with a stationary net, which -is set just on the margin of the river at low water. It is customary -with the salmon to ascend the St. Lawrence as near the shore as -possible, and their running time is when the tide is high; the -consequence is, that they enter the net at one tide, and are taken out -at another; and it is frequently the case, that upwards of three hundred -are taken at one time. The Indian mode for taking them is with the spear -by torch-light. Two Indians generally enter a canoe, and while one -paddles it noiselessly along, the other holds forth the light (which -attracts the attention of the fish, and causes them to approach their -enemy), and pierces them with the cruel spear. This mode of taking the -salmon is to be deprecated, but the savage must live, and possesses no -other means for catching them. It is but seldom that the Indian takes -more than a dozen during a single night, for he cannot afford to waste -the bounties which he receives from Nature. For preserving the salmon, -the Canadians have three modes: first, by putting them in salt for three -days, and then smoking them; secondly, by regularly salting them down as -you would mackerel; and, thirdly, by boiling, and then pickling them in -vinegar. The Indians smoke them, but only to a limited extent. - -I must now give you some account of my experience in the way of -salmon-fishing with the fly, of which glorious sport I have recently had -an abundance. If, however, I should give you a number of episodes, you -will please to remember that “it is my way,” and that I deem it a -privilege of the angler to be as wayward in his discourse as are the -channels of his favourite mountain streams. - -My first salmon expedition of the season was to the St. Margaret River. -I had two companions with me; one an accomplished fly-fisher of Quebec, -and the other the principal man of Tadousac, a lumber merchant. We went -in a gig-boat belonging to the latter, and, having started at nine -o’clock, we reached our place of destination by twelve. We found the -river uncommonly high, and a little rily. We made a desperate effort, -however, and threw the line about three hours, capturing four salmon, -only one of which was it my privilege to take. He was a handsome fellow, -weighing seventeen pounds, and in good condition; he afforded my -companions a good deal of fun, and placed me in a peculiar situation. He -had taken the hook when I was wading in swift water up to my middle, and -as soon as he discovered his predicament, he made a sudden wheel and -started down the stream. My rod bent nearly double, and I saw that I -must give him all the line he wanted; and having only three hundred feet -on my reel, I found it necessary to follow him with all speed. In doing -so I lost my footing, and was swept by the current against a pile of -logs; meantime, my reel was in the water and whizzing away at a -tremendous rate. The log upon which I depended, happened to be in a -balancing condition, and, when I attempted to surmount it, it plunged -into the current and floated down the stream, having your humble servant -astride of one end, and clinging to it with all his might. Onward went -the salmon, the log, and the fisherman. Finally, the log found its way -into an eddy of the river, and, while it was swinging about as if out of -mere malice, I left it, and fortunately reached the shore. My life -having been spared, I was more anxious than ever to take the life of the -salmon which had caused the ducking, and so I held aloft my rod, and -continued down the stream over an immense number of logs and rocks, -which seemed to have been placed there for my especial annoyance. On -coming in sight of my fish, I found him in still water, with his belly -turned upward and completely drowned. I immediately drew him on a -sand-bank near by, and, while engaged in the reasonable employment of -drying my clothes, my brother fishermen came up to congratulate me upon -my success, but laughing in the meantime most heartily. The lumber -merchant said, that the log I had been riding belonged to him, and it -was his intention to charge me one shilling for my passage from the rift -where I had hooked the salmon to the spot where I had landed him, which -was in full view of the Saguenay; and my Quebec friend remarked, that he -knew the people of Yankee-land had a queer way of doing things, but he -was not acquainted with their peculiar mode of taking salmon. As may be -readily imagined, we retraced our steps back to the log shantee where we -had stopped, and, having carefully stowed away our salmon, we laid aside -our fishing tackle, and made arrangements for a little sport of another -kind. - -The hamlet of St. Margaret, where we spent the night, contains some -eight or ten log shantees, which are occupied by about twenty families, -composed of Canadians, Indians, and half-breeds. They obtain their -living by “driving” logs, and are as happy as they are ignorant. Anxious -to see what we could of society among this people, we sent forth a -manifesto calling upon the citizens generally to attend a dance at the -cabin of a certain man, whom we had engaged to give the party at our -expense. Punctual to the appointed hour the assembly came together. Many -of the men did not take the trouble even to wash their hands, or put on -a coat before coming to the party; but the women were neatly dressed, -with blue and scarlet petticoats, over which were displayed night-gowns -of white cotton. The fiddler was an Indian, and the dancing-hall (some -twelve feet square) was lighted with a wooden lamp, supplied with -seal-oil. The dance was without any particular method, and when a -gentleman wished to trip the light fantastic toe, he only had to station -himself on the floor, when one of his friends would select his partner, -and lead her up for his acceptance. The consequence was, that if a man -wished to dance with any particular lady, he was obliged to make a -previous arrangement with his leading-up friend. The fiddler not only -furnished all the music, but also performed a goodly portion of the -dancing—fiddling and dancing at the same time. The supper was laid on -the table at ten o’clock, and consisted principally of dried beaver-tail -and cariboo meat, fried and boiled salmon, (which was cooked out of -doors near the entrance to the cabin), rye-bread, maple molasses, and -tea. - -The party broke up at twelve o’clock; when we retired to the cabin where -we had secured lodgings, and it is an actual fact, that our -sleeping-room on that night was occupied not only by ourselves, but by -two women, one man, and four children, (divided into three beds), all -members of the same family, with whom we had succeeded in obtaining -_accommodations_. On the following morning we rose at an early hour, and -again tried our luck at salmon-fishing, but only killed a few trout; -whereupon we boarded our gig and started down the romantic Saguenay, -telling stories and singing songs. - -Another river in this region which affords good salmon fishing is the -Esquemain. It empties itself into the St. Lawrence about twenty miles -east of the Saguenay. It is a cold, clear, and rapid stream, abounding -in rapids and deep pools. At its mouth is situated a saw-mill, but its -water-works are so managed as not to interfere with the salmon. The fish -of this stream ascend to a great distance, and, though rather small, are -exceedingly abundant. - -The best fishing in the river is at the foot of a waterfall, which forms -a sheet of foam, about one mile above the mouth. My Quebec friend -accompanied me to this place, and, though we only threw the fly about -six hours (three in the evening and three in the morning), yet we killed -thirteen salmon, without losing a single line, and with the loss of only -three flies. - -Owing to the bushy shores of the stream, we were compelled to fish -standing upon boulders situated in its centre; and whenever we hooked a -fish, there was no alternative but to plunge into the current and trust -to fortune. For some unaccountable reason (of course it could not have -been our fault), we lost more than half of those we hooked; but it was -worth a moderate fortune to see the magnificent leaps which the fish -performed, not only when they took the fly, but when they attempted to -escape. There was not one individual that did not give us a race of at -least half a mile. The largest taken during this expedition was killed -by my companion, and caused more trouble than all his other prizes. Not -only did this fellow attempt to clear himself by stemming the foam of a -rapid, and rubbing his nose against a rock to break the hook, but he -also swept himself completely round a large boulder, poked his head into -a net, and ran with the speed of lightning to the extreme end of his -line. It took my friend forty minutes to land this salmon; and I can -assure you that he was particularly pleased when he found that his fish -weighed one pound more than the largest I had taken. The fact was, our -rods were almost precisely alike in length and strength; and, as two -countries were represented in our persons, the strife between us was -desperate. I will acknowledge that the Canada gentleman took the largest -salmon; but the States’ angler took them in the greatest number. - -Notwithstanding all the fine sport that we enjoyed on the Esquemain, I -am compelled to state that it was more than counterbalanced by the -suffering that we endured from the black fly and musquito. The black fly -is about half as large as the common house fly, and, though it bites you -only in the day-time, they are as abundant in the air as the sand upon -the sea-shore, and venomous to an uncommon degree. The musquito of this -region is an uncommonly gaunt, long-legged, and hungry creature, and his -howl is peculiarly horrible. - -We had been almost devoured by the black flies during the afternoon, and -as soon as darkness came, we secured a couple of beds in a Frenchman’s -house, and as we tumbled in, congratulated ourselves upon a little -comfortable repose. It was an exceedingly sultry night, and, though we -were both in a complete fever from the fly-poison circulating in our -veins, the heat excelled the fever, and our bodies were literally in a -melting condition. We endeavoured to find relief by lying on the bare -floor, with no covering but a single sheet; and this arrangement might -have answered, had it not been for the flood of musquitoes which poured -into the room, as one of us happened to open a window to obtain fresh -air. Every spot on our bodies, which the flies had left untouched, was -immediately settled upon by these devils in miniature. They pierced the -very sheets that covered us, and sucked away at our blood without any -mercy. - -Unwilling to depart this life without one effort more to save it, we -then dressed ourselves and sauntered into the open air. We made our way -towards a pile of lumber near the saw-mill, and, without a particle of -covering, endeavoured to obtain a little sleep; but the insect hounds -soon found us out, and we bolted for another place. Our course now lay -towards the rude bridge which spans the Esquemain, just above the mill. -Our intentions at the time, though not uttered aloud, I verily believe -were of a fearful character. On reaching the bridge, however, a -refreshing breeze sprang up, and we enjoyed a brief respite from our -savage enemies. - -We now congratulated each other on our good fortune, and had just -resolved to be happy, when we discovered a number of Indians in the -river spearing salmon by torch-light; and as it was after midnight, and -the heathen were spearing on our fishing-ground, we mournfully concluded -that our morning sport was at an end. But, while in the very midst of -this agreeable mood of mind, a lot of skylarking musquitoes discovered -our retreat, and we were again besieged. We now endeavoured to find -relief on board the boat which had brought us from the Saguenay, and -here it was that we spent the two last hours of that most miserable -night. - -Though not exactly in a fitting condition to throw the fly with any -degree of comfort, we made an effort after salmon in the morning, and -succeeded in killing a portion of the thirteen already mentioned. That -we enjoyed the good breakfast which we had prepared for our especial -benefit, and that we departed from Esquemain as soon as possible, are -facts which I consider self-evident. - -The mouth of the Saguenay, as I have before remarked, is completely -hemmed in with barriers of solid rock; and when the tide is flowing in, -from one of these points, first-rate salmon fishing may occasionally be -enjoyed. I have frequently had the pleasure of throwing the fly on the -point in question, and on one occasion was so carried away with the -sport that I took no notice of the rising tide. It was near the sunset -hour, and on preparing for my departure home, I discovered that I was -completely surrounded with water, and that my situation was momentarily -becoming more dangerous. The water was bitter cold and turbulent, and -the channel which separated me from the main shore was upwards of a -hundred yards wide. I was more than half a mile from the nearest -dwelling, and could not see a single sail on the Saguenay, or the still -broader St. Lawrence, excepting a solitary ship, which was ten leagues -away. My predicament, I assure you, was not to be envied. I could not -entertain the idea that I should lose my life; and, though I felt myself -to be in danger, my sensations were supremely ridiculous. But something, -I was persuaded, must be done, and that immediately; and so I commenced -throwing off my clothes for a final effort to save my life. I had -stripped off every thing but shirt and pantaloons, and to a flock of -crows which were cawing above my head I must have presented an -interesting picture. I thought of the famous swimming adventures of -Leander and Lord Byron, and also of the inconveniences of being drowned -(as Charles Lamb did of being hanged); but just as I was about to make -the important plunge, an Indian in his canoe came gliding around a -neighbouring point, and I was rescued, together with one salmon and some -dozen pounds of trout. - -But I have not finished my story yet. On the night following this -incident, I retired to bed in rather a sober mood, for I could not -banish the recollection of my narrow escape from a ducking, if not from -a watery grave. The consequence was, that in my dreams I underwent ten -times as much mental suffering as I had actually endured. I dreamed that -in scaling the rocks which lead to the point alluded to, I lost my -footing, and fell into the water. While in this condition, drinking more -salt water than I wanted, floundering about like a sick porpoise, -gasping for breath, and uttering a most doleful moan, I was suddenly -awakened, and found my good landlord at my side, tapping me on the -shoulder, for the purpose of summoning me—from the back of the nightmare -I had been riding. - -As I may not have another opportunity of alluding to this portion of the -Saguenay, and to the rocky point already alluded to, I must give my -reader another and a remarkable incident connected with them. Some years -ago, the Hudson’s Bay Company had in its employ as clerk, at Tadousac, -an intelligent and amiable young man, whose name was McCray. For some -unaccountable reason he became deranged; and on one occasion, a cold and -stormy winter night, he took it into his head to cross the Saguenay upon -the floating ice, which was running at the time. When first discovered, -he was about half-way across the stream, and making frightful leaps of -ten and fifteen feet from one block of ice to another. His friends -followed in close pursuit, with a boat, as soon as possible; but on -reaching the opposite shore, the unhappy man was not to be found. On the -day following, however, some people who were hunting for him in the -woods, discovered him perched in a tree, almost frozen to death, and -senseless as a clod of the valley. He was taken home, the circulation of -his blood restored, and he is now an inmate of the Quebec Lunatic -Asylum. The mind of this worthy man was thought to be of a high order; -and it is certain that he possessed an extensive knowledge of botany and -geology. From remarks that escaped him subsequently to the wonderful -feat he performed, it is supposed that, at the time of starting across -the river, he was thinking of a particular book which he wished to -obtain, and had been told could be purchased in Quebec, towards which -place (unattainable by land) he had set out. It is worthy of record, -that poor McCray is the only man who ever crossed the deep and angry -Saguenay on the ice, as it is never solidly frozen; and it is almost -certain, that the feat he performed, can never be again repeated. - -But to return to my piscatorial remarks. Next to the salmon, the finest -sporting fish of this region is the trout. Of these I have seen two -species, the salmon and the common trout. Of the former I believe there -is but one variety; but that is an exceedingly fine fish for sport or -the table, and is found in the lower tributaries of the St. Lawrence, -from five to fifteen pounds. They are taken chiefly in the salt water, -and possess a flavour which the trout of our Western lakes do not. Of -the common trout, I have seen at least six varieties, differing, -however, only in colour; for some are almost entirely white, others -brown, some blue, some green, some black, and others yellow. These are -taken everywhere in the St. Lawrence, and in all its tributaries. Those -of the Saguenay are the largest, most abundant, and of the rarest -quality. Upon the whole, I am inclined to set this river down as -affording the finest trout-fishing that I have ever enjoyed, not even -excepting that which I have experienced at the Falls of St. Mary, in -Michigan. Almost every bay or cove in the Saguenay is crowded with -trout; and, generally speaking, the rocks upon which you have to stand -afford an abundance of room to swing and drop the fly. In some of the -coves alluded to, I have frequently taken a dozen two-pound trout during -the single hour before sunset. - -Trout fishing, in this region, possesses a charm which the angler seldom -experiences in the rivers and lakes of the United States, which consists -in his uncertainty as to the character of his prize before he has landed -him; for it may be a common or salmon trout, or a regular built salmon, -as these fish all swim in the same water. It is reported of a celebrated -angler of Quebec, that he once spent a week on the Esquemain, and -captured within that time seventy salmon, and upwards of a hundred -trout. This is a very strange story, but I have faith enough to believe -it true. - -And now for a few remarks upon the fish of the St. Lawrence generally. -Cod are taken to a very great extent, and constitute an important -article of commerce. Herring and mackerel are abundant, also the -hallibut and sardine. Shad are also taken, but not in sufficient -quantities to export. The lobster, flounder, and oyster are also found -in this river; and, with a few unimportant exceptions, these are the -only fish that flourish in this portion of the great river. The -sea-bass, the striped-bass, the blue-fish, and the black-fish, for which -I should suppose these waters perfectly adapted, are entirely unknown. - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - -Seal-hunting on the St. Lawrence—The white Porpoise. - - Tadousac. July. - -Before breakfast, this morning, I had the pleasure of taking fifteen -common trout, and the remainder of the day I devoted to seal-hunting. -This animal is found in great abundance in the St. Lawrence, and by the -Indians and a few white people is extensively hunted. There are several -varieties found in these waters; and the usual market price for the oil -and skin, is five dollars. They vary in size from four to eight feet, -and are said to be good eating. Many people make them a principal -article of food; and while the Indians use their skins for many -purposes, they also light their cabins with the oil. In sailing on the -river, they meet you at every turn; and when I first saw one, I thought -that I was looking upon a drowning man; for they only raise their heads -out of the water, and thus sustain themselves with their feet, fins, -pads, flippers, or whatever you may call them. They live upon fish, and -in many of their habits closely resemble the otter. Their paws have five -claws, joined together with a thick skin; they somewhat resemble the -dog, and have a bearded snout, like a cat, large bright eyes, and long -sharp teeth. They are a noisy animal, and when a number of them are -sunning themselves upon the sand, the screams they utter are doleful in -the extreme, somewhat resembling the cry of children. - -My first seal expedition was performed in company with two professional -hunters. We started from shore with a yawl and a canoe, and made our -course for a certain spot in the St. Lawrence, where the waters of the -Saguenay and the flood tide came together, and caused a terrible -commotion. The canoe led the way, occupied by one man, who was supplied -with a harpoon and a long line; while the other hunter and myself came -up in the rear, for the purpose of rescuing the harpooner in case an -accident should happen, and also for the purpose of shipping the -plunder. The seal seems to delight in frequenting the deepest water and -more turbulent whirlpools; and the object of using a canoe, is to steal -upon him in the most successful manner. We had not floated about the -eddy more than twenty minutes, before a large black animal made his -appearance, about ten feet from the canoe; but, just as he was on the -point of diving, the hunter threw his harpoon, and gave him the line, to -which was attached a buoy. The poor creature floundered about at a great -rate, dived as far as he could towards the bottom, and then leaped -entirely out of the water; but the cruel spear would not loosen its -hold. Finally, after making every effort to escape, and tinging the -surrounding water with a crimson hue, he gasped for breath a few times, -and sunk to the end of the rope, quite dead. We then pulled him to the -side of the boat, and with a gaff-hook secured him therein, and the hunt -was renewed. In this manner did my companions capture no less than three -seals, before the hour of noon. - -On one occasion, I noticed a large number of seals, sunning themselves -upon a certain sandy point; and as I felt an “itching palm” to obtain, -with my own hands, the material for a winter cap, I spent the afternoon -in the enjoyment of a “shooting frolic, all alone.” I borrowed a rifle -of one of my friends, and having passed over to the sandy point in a -canoe, I secreted myself in the midst of some rocks, and awaited the -game. I had not remained quiet but a short time before a huge black seal -made his appearance, scrambling up the beach, where he kept a sharp -look-out for anything that might do him harm. I admired the apparent -intelligence of the creature, as he dragged his clumsy and legless body -along the ground, and almost regretted that it was doomed to die. True -to my ridiculous nature, however, I finally determined to leave him -unmolested for the present, hoping that he would soon be accompanied by -one of his fellow seals, and that I should have a chance of killing a -pair. I was not disappointed; and you will, therefore, please to -consider me in full view of one of the finest marks imaginable, and in -the attitude of firing. Crack went the rifle; but my shot only had the -effect of temporarily rousing the animals; and I proceeded to reload my -gun, wondering at the cause of my missing, and feeling somewhat -dissatisfied with matters and things in general. Again was it my -privilege to fire, and I saw a stick fly into the air, about thirty feet -to the left of my game. The animals were, of course, not at all injured, -but just enough frightened to turn their faces towards the water, into -which they shortly plunged, and entirely disappeared. I returned to my -lodgings, honestly told my story, and was laughed at for my pains and -bad luck. It so happened, however, that the owner of the gun imagined -that something might be the matter with the thing; and on examining it, -he found that one of the sights had been accidentally knocked from its -original position, which circumstance had been the “cause of my -anguish;” and, though it restored to me my good name as a marksman, it -afforded me but little satisfaction. - -But, that my chapter about seals may be worth sealing, I will give you -the history of an incident, which illustrates the sagacity of an Indian -in killing his game. A Mik-mak hunter, with his family, had reached the -shore of the St. Lawrence, hungry and short of ammunition. On a large -sand-bank which lay before him, at a time when the tide was low, he -discovered an immense number of seals. He waited for the tide to flow -and again to ebb, and as soon as the sand appeared above the water, he -hastened to the dry point, in his canoe, carrying only a hatchet as a -weapon. On this spot he immediately dug a hole, into which he crept, and -covered himself with a blanket. He then commenced uttering a cry, in -imitation of the seal, and in a short time had collected about him a -very large number of those animals. He waited patiently for the tide to -retire so far that the animals would have to travel at least a mile by -land before reaching the water; and, when the wished-for moment arrived, -he suddenly fell upon the affrighted multitude, and with his tomahawk, -succeeded in slaughtering upwards of one hundred. To many this may -appear to be an improbable story; but when it is remembered that this -amphibious animal is an exceedingly slow land traveller, it will be -readily believed. The manner in which our hunter managed to save his -game, was to tie them together with bark, and when the tide rose, tow -them to the main shore. - -Since I have brought my reader upon the waters of the St. Lawrence, I -will not permit him to go ashore until I have given him an account of -another inhabitant of the deep which is found in very great abundance, -not only in this river, but also in the Saguenay. I allude to the white -porpoise. The shape of this creature is similar to that of the whale, -though of a pure white colour, and usually only about fifteen feet in -length. They are exceedingly fat, and yield an oil of the best quality; -while the skin is capable of being turned into durable leather. They are -extensively used as an article of food: the fins and tail when pickled -are considered a delicacy; and their value is about twenty-five dollars -a piece. They are far from being a shy fish; and, when sailing about -your vessel in large numbers, as is often the case, they present a -beautiful and unique appearance. - -For taking this fish the people of this region have two methods. The -first is to use a boat with a white bottom, behind which the fisherman -tows a small wooden porpoise, which is painted a dark slate-colour, in -imitation of the young of the species. With these lures the porpoise is -often brought into the immediate vicinity of the harpoon, which is -invariably thrown with fatal precision. In this manner an expert man -will often take three or four fine prizes in a day. - -Another mode for taking these creatures is by fencing them in. It -appears that it is customary for this fish to wander over the sand-bars, -at high-water, for the purpose of feeding. Profiting by this knowledge, -the fishermen enclose one of the sandy reefs with poles set about three -feet apart, and sometimes covering a square mile. They leave an -appropriate opening for the porpoises, which are sure to enter at -high-water, and, owing to their timidity, they are kept confined by the -slender barrier until the tide ebbs, when they are destroyed in great -numbers with very little trouble. It is reported that a party of -fishermen, some ninety miles above the Saguenay, once took one hundred -and forty porpoises at one tide; and it is also asserted, that in -dividing the spoil the fishermen had a very bitter quarrel—since which -time, as the story goes, not a single porpoise has ever been taken on -the shoal in question. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - -The Esquimaux Indians of Labrador. - - Tadousac. July. - -The vast region of country lying on the north shore of the Gulf of St. -Lawrence, and extending to the eastward of the Saguenay as far as -Newfoundland, is generally known under the name of Labrador. It is an -exceedingly wild and desolate region, and, excepting an occasional -fishing hamlet or a missionary station belonging to the worthy -Moravians, its only inhabitants are Indians. Of these the more famous -tribes are the Red Indians, (now almost extinct,) the Hunting Indians, -the Mik-maks, and the Esquimaux. The latter nation is by far the most -numerous, and it is said that their sway extends even to the coasts of -Hudson’s Bay. They are, at the same time, the wildest and most rude -inhabitants of this wilderness, and in appearance, as well as manners -and customs, closely resemble the inhabitants of Greenland. - -During one of my nautical expeditions down the St. Lawrence, I chanced -to be wind-bound for a couple of days at the mouth of a river on the -north shore, where I found a small encampment of Esquimaux Indians. The -principal man of the party was exceedingly aged, and the only one who -could convey his thoughts in any other language than his own. He had -mingled much with the French fur-traders of the north, and the French -fishermen of the east, and possessed a smattering of their tongue. -Seated by the side of this good old man in his lodge, with a moose-skin -for my seat, a pack of miscellaneous furs to lean against, and a rude -seal-oil torch suspended over my head, I spent many hours of one -long-to-be-remembered night in questioning him about his people. The -substance of the information I then collected it is now my purpose to -record;—but it should be remembered that I speak of the nation at large, -and not of any particular tribe. - -According to my informant, the extent of the Esquimaux nation is -unknown, for they consider themselves as numerous as the waves of the -sea. Much has been done to give them an education, and, though -missionaries of the Cross have dwelt among them for about a century, yet -the majority of this people are at the present time in heathen darkness. -The men are chiefly employed in hunting and fishing, and the domestic -labour is all performed by the women. Their clothes are made in the -rudest manner imaginable, and generally of the coarser skins which they -secure in hunting. They believe in a Supreme Being, who has a -dwelling-place in the earth, the air, and the ocean, and who is both -good and evil; and they also believe in the immortality of the soul, -which they describe as similar to air, which they cannot feel. Their -principal men are magicians and conjurors, distinguished, as I infer -with good reason, for their profligacy. Whenever a man is sick, they -attribute the cause to the alleged fact that his soul has departed from -his body, and he is looked upon with contempt and pity. The first man -who came into the world sprang from the bosom of a beautiful valley; in -this valley he spent his infancy and childhood, feeding upon berries; -and having on a certain occasion picked up a flower which drooped over -one of his accustomed paths, it immediately became changed into a girl -with flowing hair, who became his playmate, and afterwards his wife, and -was the mother of all living. They believe in a heaven and a hell, and -consider that the road to the former is rugged and rocky, and that to -the latter level and covered with grass. Their ideas of astronomy are -peculiar, for they consider the sun, moon, and stars as so many of their -ancestors, who have, for a great variety of reasons, been lifted to the -sky and become celestial bodies. In accounting for the two former, they -relate that there was once a superb festival given by the Esquimaux in a -glorious snow-palace of the north, where were assembled all the young -men and maidens of the land. Among them was a remarkably brave youth, -who was in love with an exceedingly beautiful girl. She, however, did -not reciprocate this attachment, and endeavoured by all the means in her -power to escape from his caresses. To accomplish this end, she called -upon the Great Spirit to give her a pair of wings; and, having received -them, she flew into the air and became the moon. The youth also -endeavoured to obtain a pair of wings, and, after many months, finally -succeeded; and, on ascending to the sky, he became the sun. The moon, -they say, has a dwelling-place in the west, and the sun another in the -far east. They account for thunder and lightning by giving the story of -two women who lived together in a wigwam, and on one occasion had a most -furious battle. During the affray the cabin tumbled in upon them, -causing a tremendous noise, while the women were so angry that their -eyes flashed fire. Rain, they say, comes from a river in the sky, which, -from the great number of people who sometimes bathe in it, overflows its -banks, and thus comes to the earth in showers. - -When one of their friends has departed this life, they take all his -property and scatter it upon the ground, outside of his cabin, to be -purified by the air; but then in the evening they collect it together, -and bury it by the side of his grave. They think it wrong for the men to -mourn for their friends, and consider themselves defiled if they happen -to touch the body of the deceased; and the individual who usually -performs the office of undertaker is considered unclean for many days -after fulfilling his duty. The women do all the wailing and weeping; and -during their mourning season, which corresponds with the fame of the -deceased, they abstain from food, wear their hair in great disorder, and -refrain from every ablution. When a friendless man dies, his body is -left upon the hills to decay, as if he had been a beast. When their -children die, they bury the body of a dead dog in the same grave, that -the child may have a guide in his pathway to an unknown land, to which -they suppose all children go. - -Polygamy, as such, among the Esquimaux is practised only to a limited -extent; but married men and women are not over-scrupulous in their love -affairs. Unmarried women, however, observe the rules of modesty with -peculiar care; and the maiden who suffers herself to be betrayed is -looked upon with infamy. When a young man wishes to marry, he first -settles the matter with his intended, and then, having asked and -obtained her father’s permission, he sends two old women to bring the -lady to his lodge, and they are considered one. The Esquimaux mother is -fond of her children, and never chastises them for any offence. Children -are taught to be dutiful to their parents, and until they marry they -always continue under the paternal roof. - -The amusements of the Esquimaux do not differ materially from those of -the Indian tribes generally. They are fond of dancing, playing ball, and -a species of dice game; while the women know of no recreation but that -of dancing and singing. - -And thus ends my mite of information respecting one of the most -extensive aboriginal nations of the far north. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - -The Habitans of Canada. - - River du Loup. July. - -Since my last chapter, written on the banks of the Saguenay, I have -completed my pilgrimage through Lower Canada, but before leaving the -province, I will give you the result of my observations respecting some -of its people. These are divided into three classes—the descendants of -the French colonists, (commonly called “Habitans,”) the British -settlers, and the Indian tribes. - -The Habitans, of whom I am now to speak, are the most numerous, and so -peculiar in their appearance and manners as to attract the particular -attention of travellers. The men are usually tall and slender, of sinewy -build, and with a dark brown complexion; the girls are black-eyed, and -disposed to be beautiful; while the women are always dumpy, but -good-looking. Their dress is similar to that of the French peasantry; -the men wear the old-fashioned _capote_ on their heads, every variety of -fantastic caps and hats, and on their feet a moccassin made of cow-hide; -the women wear jackets or mantelets, which are made of bright colours, -and on their heads either a cap or a straw hat, made in the gipsey -fashion. Occasionally they make an effort to imitate the English in -their dress, and at such times invariably appear ridiculous. - -As a class, they are devoted principally to agriculture; but as their -opportunities for obtaining instruction are exceedingly limited, their -knowledge of the art of husbandry is precisely what it was one hundred -years ago. They seem to be entirely destitute of enterprise, and tread -in the beaten steps of their fathers. They who live in the vicinity of -Montreal and Quebec, generally supply those markets with vegetables; but -those who reside in the more obscure parts, seem to be quite satisfied -if they can only manage to raise enough off of their farms for the -purpose of carrying them through the year. They are partial to rye -bread, and never consider it in a cooking condition until it has been -soured by age; and their standard dish, which they make use of on all -occasions, is a plain pea-soup. The consequence is, that the pea is -extensively cultivated. - -You seldom find a farmer who is so poor as not to be able to sell from -five to fifty bushels of wheat, and this article he appropriates to the -same uses that most people do their money. Their plough is distinguished -for its rudeness, and their farming implements generally would not be -creditable even to a barbarous people. If an individual happens to have -a stony field, the idea does not enter his head that he might build a -fence with those very stones, and the consequence is, that he piles them -in one immense heap in the centre of the field, and draws his rails a -distance of perhaps two miles. But with all their ignorance of -agriculture, the Habitans are sufficiently careful to make their little -farms yield them all the necessaries they require, particularly their -clothing and shoes, their candles, soap, and sugar. - -There are but few professional mechanics among them, and the dwelling of -the peasant is almost invariably the production of his own individual -labour. Their houses are distinguished for pictorial beauty, always one -story high, and generally neatly whitewashed. Their cattle are small, -and, owing to their neglect in feeding and protecting them, are -exceedingly poor. Their horses are nothing but ponies, but distinguished -for their toughness. The Habitans are partial to the luxury of riding, -and their common vehicle is a rough two-wheeled cart, and occasionally a -calash. - -The turn-out which I employed for travelling in the settled parts of -Canada was a fair specimen of the class: the cost of the horse (four -feet and a half high) was twenty dollars, and the cart (made entirely of -wood) was four dollars. My coachman was a Habitan, and, in driving over -a hilly road on a certain day, I had a fine opportunity of studying the -conflicting traits of character which distinguish the race. - -Whenever he wanted his horse to go fast, he pulled the reins with all -his might, and continued to utter a succession of horrible yells. He -invariably ran his animal up the hills, and deliberately walked him -down. When angry at his unoffending beast, he showered upon his head a -variety of oaths, which might be translated as follows: “infernal hog!” -“black toad!” and “hellish dog!” and yet, when the animal was about to -drop to the ground from fatigue and heat, he would caress him, and do -every thing in his power to restore the animal and ease his own -conscience. - -I first employed this man to bring me to this place, and said nothing -about continuing my journey. On ascertaining, however, that I was bound -further down the St. Lawrence, he volunteered his services, and I -employed him, although he had informed his wife that he would positively -return on the night of the day he left her. I retained him in my employ -for two days, and was particularly struck with the anxiety he manifested -concerning the disappointment of his wife. He alluded to the impropriety -of his conduct at least a dozen times, and usually added: “But you give -me plenty of money, (it was only six dollars for taking me forty miles,) -and I will buy something pretty for my wife, which will make her very -glad—I guess she won’t be sorry.” I asked him what it was that he -intended to purchase, and his answer was, “some riband, a pair of -scissors, with some needles, and a calico dress.” Who can deny that it -is not pleasant to study the sunshine of the human heart, “by which we -live?” - -The Habitans profess the Roman Catholic religion with much zeal. Among -them I believe may be found many worthy Christians; but they manifest -their religious devotion in many peculiar ways. They are fond of social -intercourse, and spend a great portion of their time in visiting each -other. They reluctantly establish themselves beyond the sound of a -chapel bell, and I positively believe that they spend more than half of -their time in performing mass and in horse-racing. - -The Sabbath is their great holiday, and always decidedly the noisiest -day of the week. Their general deportment, however, is inoffensive, and -often highly praiseworthy. They are seldom guilty of committing -atrocious crimes, and do not often engage in personal conflicts, which -are so prevalent in the United States. They treat all men with kindness, -and in their language and manners are remarkably polite. The little -girl, playing with her doll in her father’s door, would think her -conduct highly improper should she omit to drop you a courtesy as you -passed along; and even the rude boy, when playing ball or driving his -team, invariably takes off his hat to salute the traveller. - -The Habitans are particularly fond of the river St. Lawrence, and their -settlements extend from Montreal about two hundred miles with the river -on the north shore, and perhaps three hundred and fifty miles on the -southern shore. Their principal roads run parallel with the river, are -about half a mile apart, and generally completely lined with rural -dwellings. - -The political opinions of the Habitans are extremely liberal, and not -much in accordance with the spirit of Canadian institutions. They hate -England by nature and the advice of their priesthood, and scruple not to -declare themselves actually in love with what they call the American -Government. They complain that Englishmen treat them as if they were -slaves, while the people of the United States always hail them as -brothers. They are an unlettered race, but believe that their condition -would be much happier were they the subjects of a President instead of a -Queen. That is a matter I consider questionable. - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - -The Grand Portage into New Brunswick—Lake Timiscouta—The Madawaska -River. - - On the Madawaska. July. - -The traveller, who would go from Quebec to Halifax by the recently -established Government route, will have to take a steamer for one -hundred and twenty miles down the great river, and cross the Grand -Portage road which commences at River Du Loup, and extends to Lake -Timiscouta, a distance of thirty-six miles. - -With the village of Du Loup I was well pleased. It contains about twelve -hundred inhabitants, and a more general mixture of English, Scotch, and -French than is usually found in the smaller towns of Canada. The place -contains an Episcopal Church, which must be looked upon as a curiosity -in this Roman Catholic country, for it is the only one, I believe, found -eastward of Quebec. The situation of the village is romantic to an -uncommon degree. It commands an extensive prospect of the St. Lawrence, -which is here upwards of twenty miles wide, and bounded on the opposite -shore by a multitude of ragged mountains. The river is studded with -islands, and ships are constantly passing hither and thither over the -broad expanse, and when, from their great distance, all these objects -are constantly enveloped in a gauze-like atmosphere, there is a magic -influence in the scenery. The principal attraction is a waterfall, about -a mile in the rear of the village. At this point, the waters of the -rapid and beautiful Du Loup dance joyously over a rocky bed, until they -reach a picturesque precipice of perhaps eighty or a hundred feet, over -which they dash in a sheet of foam, and, after forming an extensive and -shadowy pool, glide onward through a pleasant meadow, until they mingle -with the waters of the St Lawrence. - -But as I intend to take you over the Grand Portage, it is time that we -should be off. The first ten miles of this road are dotted with the -box-looking houses of the Canadian peasantry; but the rest of the route -leads you up mountains and down valleys, which are all as wild and -desolate as when first created. The principal trees of the forest are -pine, spruce and hemlock, and the foundation of the country seems to be -granite. This region is watered by many sparkling streams, which contain -trout in great abundance. The only curiosity on the road is of a -geological character, and struck me as something remarkable. Crossing -the road, and running in a northerly direction, and extending to the -width of about two miles, is a singular bed of granite boulders. The -rocks are of every size and form, and while from a portion of them rises -a scanty vegetation, other portions are destitute of even the common -moss. In looking upon this region, the idea struck me that I was passing -through the bed of what was once a mighty river, but whose fountains had -become for ever dry. This is only one, however, of the unnumbered -wonders of the world, which are constantly appearing to puzzle the -philosophy of man. - -In passing over the Grand Portage, the traveller has to resort to a -conveyance which presents a striking contrast with the usual national -works of her Ladyship, the Queen. It is the same establishment which -conveys the Royal Mail from Quebec to Halifax, and consists of a common -Canadian cart, a miserable Canadian pony, and a yet more miserable -Canadian driver. Such is “the way they order things in Canada,” which, I -fancy, is not exactly the way they do in France. The Grand Portage Road -itself is all that one could desire, and as there is a good deal of -summer and winter travelling upon it, it is surprising that the -Government cannot afford a more comfortable conveyance. - -The eastern termination of the Grand Portage road, is at Lake -Timiscouta, where is situated a pleasant hamlet of Canadians, and a -picketed fort, which is now abandoned. The views from this spot are -unique and exceedingly beautiful, particularly a western view of the -lake, when glowing beneath the rays of the setting sun. The Indian word, -Timiscouta, signifies the winding water, and accurately describes the -lake, which has a serpentine course, twenty-four miles long, and from -two to three wide. Excepting the cluster of houses already mentioned, -there is not a single cabin on the whole lake; and the surrounding -mountains, which are, perhaps, a thousand feet high, are the home of -solitude and silence. The only vessels which navigate this lake are -Indian canoes, paddled by Canadians. Not only does the isolated settler -depend upon them for the transportation of his provisions, but even the -English nobleman, when travelling in this region, finds it necessary to -sit like a tailor in their straw-covered bottoms. - -The only outlet to Lake Timiscouta, is the Madawaska River, which is but -a contraction of the same water, but reduced to the width of a stone’s -throw, and leading to the St. John’s, a distance of some forty miles. -The meaning of Madawaska, as I am informed, is, _never frozen_; and the -river obtained this name from the fact that certain portions, on account -of the current, are never ice-bound. The scenery of the river is -precisely similar to that of its parent lake, only that it is -occasionally a little cultivated. The waters of both are clear, but not -very deep or cold. They abound with fish, of which the common trout, the -perch, and pickerel, (not pike), are the more valuable varieties. - -The manner in which I sailed through Timiscouta and Madawaska, was -exceedingly pleasant, if not peculiar and ridiculous. My canoe was -manned by a couple of barbarous Canadians; and while they occupied the -extreme stern and bow, I was allowed the “largest liberty” in the body -thereof. It was an exceedingly hot day when I passed through; and having -stripped myself of nearly all my clothing, I rolled about at my own -sweet will, not only for the purpose of keeping cool, but that I might -do a good business in the way of killing time. At one moment I was -dipping my feet and hands in the water, “humming a lightsome tune of -yore,” and anon sketching the portrait of a mountain or a group of -trees. Now I lay flat upon my back; and while I watched the fantastic -movements of the clouds, as they crossed the blue of heaven, I attended -to the comforts of the inner man, by sucking maple sugar. Now I called -upon the boat-men to sing me a song: and while they complied with my -request, I fixed myself in the poetical attitude of a Turk, and smoked a -cigar. At one time we halted at a mountain spring, to obtain a -refreshing drink; and at another, the men pulled up to some rocky point, -that I might have the pleasure of throwing the fly. Thus “pleasantly the -days of Thalaba went by.” - -My voyage down the Madawaska was not without a characteristic incident. -There was a fleet of canoes descending at the same time; some of them -laden with women and babies, and some with furs, tin kettles, and the -knapsacks of home-bound lumbermen. Two of the canoes were managed by a -Canadian and a Scotchman, who seemed to cherish a deep-rooted passion -for racing. They paddled a number of heats; and as they were alternately -beaten, they both finally became angry, and began to bet extravagantly. -The conclusion of the whole matter was, that they went ashore on a bushy -point, among the mountains, and settled their difficulty by a “private -fight.” They fought like brave men, “long and well;” and by the time one -had a tooth knocked out of his head, and the other had nearly lost an -eye, they separated, and quietly resumed their way. These were the only -wild animals that I saw in the Madawaska wilderness. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - -The Acadians. - - Mouth of the Madawaska. July. - -At the junction of the rivers Madawaska and St. John, and extending for -some miles down the latter, is a settlement of about three hundred -Acadians. How these people came by the name they bear, I do not exactly -understand; but of their history I remember the following particulars. -In the year 1755, during the existence of the Colonial difficulties -between England and France, there existed, in a remote section of Nova -Scotia, about fifteen thousand Acadians. Aristocratic French blood -flowed in their veins, and they were a peaceful and industrious race of -husbandmen. Even after the Government of England had become established -in Canada, they cherished a secret attachment for the laws of their -native country. But this was only a feeling; and they continued in the -peaceful cultivation of their lands. In process of time, however, three -titled Englishmen, named Lawrence, Boscawen, and Mostyn, held a council, -and formed the hard-hearted determination of driving this people from -their homes, and scattering them to the four quarters of the globe. -Playing the part of friends, this brotherhood of conquerors and heroes -sent word to the Acadians, that they must all meet at a certain place on -business which deeply concerned their welfare. - -Not dreaming of their impending fate, the poor Acadians met at the -appointed place, and were there informed of the fact, that their houses -and lands were forfeited, and that they must leave the country, to -become wanderers in strange and distant lands. They sued for mercy, but -the iron yoke of a Christian nation was laid more heavily upon their -necks, in answer to that prayer, and they were driven from home and -country; and as they sailed from shore, or entered the wilderness, they -saw in the distance, ascending to heaven, the smoke of all that they had -loved and lost. Those who survived, found an asylum in the United -States, and in the more remote portions of the British Empire; and when, -after the war, they were invited to return to their early home, only -thirteen hundred were known to be in existence. It is a remnant of this -very people who, with their descendants, are now the owners of the -Madawaska settlement; and it is in an Acadian dwelling that I am now -penning this paper. - -But, owing to their many misfortunes (I would speak in charity), the -Acadians have degenerated into a more ignorant and miserable people than -are the Canadian French, whom they closely resemble in their appearance -and customs. They believe the people of Canada to be a nation of knaves, -and the people of Canada know them to be a half savage community. -Worshipping a miserable priesthood is their principal business; drinking -and cheating their neighbours, their principal amusement. They live by -tilling the soil; and are content, if they can barely make the provision -of one year take them to the entrance of another. They are, at the same -time, passionate lovers of money, and have brought the science of -fleecing strangers to perfection. Some of them, by a life of meanness, -have succeeded in accumulating a respectable property; but all the money -they obtain is systematically hoarded. It is reported of the principal -man of this place, that he has in his house, at the present moment, the -sum of 10,000 dollars, in silver and gold; and yet this man’s children -are as ignorant of the alphabet as the cattle upon the hills. But, with -all their ignorance, the Acadians are a happy people; but it is the -happiness of a mere animal nature. - -The scenery of this place, which does not seem to possess a name, is -most agreeable, but its attractive features are of an architectural -nature. The first is a block-house, and the second a Catholic church. - -The block-house occupies the summit of a commanding and rocky knoll, and -was built at a cost of nearly five thousand dollars, for the purpose of -defending this portion of New Brunswick, during the existence of the -late Boundary difficulty. The edifice is built of stone and timber, and -may be described as a square box, placed upon another and a larger one, -in a triangular fashion; the width may be thirty feet, and height one -hundred and fifty. It is well supplied with port-holes; entered by a -wooden flight of stairs, and covered with a tin roof. It contains two -stories, besides a well-filled magazine. It is abundantly supplied with -guns and cannon, and almost every variety of shot, shells, and balls. It -was once occupied by three military companies, (about all that it could -possibly hold) but the only human being who now has anything to do with -it is a worthy man who officiates as keeper. - -The panorama which this fortress overlooks is exceedingly picturesque, -embracing both the valley of the Madawaska and that of St. John, which -fade away amid a multitude of wild and uncultivated mountains. When -first I looked upon this block-house, it struck me as being a most -ridiculous affair; but, on further examination, I became convinced that -it could not be taken without the shedding of much blood. - -Of the church to which I alluded, I have only to remark that it is a -very small, and apparently a venerable structure, built of wood, painted -yellow, with a red steeple. It is pleasantly situated amid a cluster of -rude cabins, on the margin of the St. John, and in the immediate -vicinity of a racecourse. It was my fate to spend a Sabbath in this -Madawaska settlement. As a matter of course, I attended church. The -congregation was large, and composed entirely of Acadians, decked out in -the most ridiculous gew-gawish dresses imaginable. I noticed nothing -extraordinary on the occasion, only that at the threshold of the church -was a kind of stand, where a woman was selling sausages and small beer. -The services were read in Latin, and a sermon preached in French, which -contained nothing but the most common-place advice, and that all of a -secular character. At the conclusion of the service the male portion of -the congregation gradually collected together on the neighbouring green, -and the afternoon was devoted to horse-racing, the swiftest horse -belonging to the loudest talker and heaviest stake-planter, and that man -was—a disciple of the Pope, and the identical priest whom I had heard -preach in the morning. It will be hard for you to believe this; but I -have written the truth, as well as my last line, about the Acadian -Settlement on the Madawaska. - - - - - CHAPTER XX. - - -Sail down the Madawaska—The Falls of the St. John. - - Falls of the St. John. July. - -In coming to this place from the north, the traveller finds it necessary -to descend the river St. John in a canoe. The distance from Madawaska is -thirty-six miles, and the day that I passed down was delightful in the -extreme. My canoe was only about fifteen feet long, but my _voyageur_ -was an expert and faithful man, and we performed the trip without the -slightest accident. - -The valley of this portion of the river is mountainous, and its -immediate banks vary from fifteen to thirty feet in height. The water is -very clear and rapid, but of a brownish colour, and quite warm, varying -in depth from three to thirty feet, and the width is about a quarter of -a mile. That portion of the stream (say some seventy miles of its -source) which belongs exclusively to the United States, runs through a -fertile and beautiful country, abounds in waterfalls and rapids, and is -yet a wilderness. That portion which divides the United States from New -Brunswick, is somewhat cultivated, but principally by a French -population. Owing to the fact that the farms all face the river, and are -very narrow, (but extend back to the distance of two and three miles) -the houses have all been erected immediately on the river, so that, to -the casual observer, the country might appear to be thickly inhabited, -which is far from being the case. The principal business done on the -river is the driving of logs and timber for the market of St. John; and, -excepting the worthy and hard working lumbermen who toil in the forests, -the people are devoted to the tilling of their land, and are precisely -similar to the Acadians in their manners and customs, and probably from -the same stock. There is a miniature steam-boat on the river, but as the -unnumbered canoes of the inhabitants are engaged in a kind of opposition -line, the fiery little craft would seem to have a hard time. In -navigating the river, the _voyageurs_ paddle down stream, but use a pole -in ascending; and two smart men, gracefully swinging their poles, and -sending their little vessel rapidly against the current, taken in -connection with the pleasant scenery of the river, present an agreeable -and novel sight. - -We started from Madawaska at four o’clock in the morning, and having -travelled some twenty miles, we thought we would stop at the first -nice-looking tavern on the shore, (for about every other dwelling is -well supplied with liquor, and consequently considered a tavern) for the -purpose of obtaining breakfast. Carefully did we haul up our canoe, and -having knocked at the cabin-door, were warmly welcomed by a -savage-looking man, whose face was completely besmeared with milk, and -also by a dirty-looking woman, a couple of dirty legged girls, and a -young boy. The only furniture in the room was a bed and a small -cupboard, while the fire-place was without a particle of fire. In one -corner of the room was a kind of bar, where the boy was in attendance, -and seemed to be the spokesman of the dwelling. We asked him if we could -have some breakfast, and he promptly replied that we could. - -“What can you give us?” was my next question. - -“Anything you please,” replied the boy in broken English. - -“We’ll take some ham and eggs, then.” - -“We havn’t any, only some eggs.” - -“We’ll take some bread and milk.” - -“We havn’t any bread, but plenty of milk.” - -“Havn’t you any kind of meat?” - -“No, plenty of _rum_! What’ll you have?” - -I could stand this no longer, and having expressed my displeasure at the -ignorance of the boy, and condemned his father for pretending to keep a -tavern, I gave the former a sixpence, and took half-a-dozen eggs, with -which we returned to our canoe. - -While I was fixing my seat in the boat, and commenting upon wilderness -hospitality, my companion amused himself by swallowing four of the -purchased eggs in a leather cup of brandy. In two hours after this -little adventure, our little canoe was moored above the Falls of the St. -John, and we were enjoying a first rate breakfast, prepared by the lady -of a Mr. Russell, who keeps a comfortable house of entertainment in this -place. - -After I had finished my cigar and enjoyed a resting spell, I pocketed my -sketch-book, and spent the entire day examining the scenery of the -falls. After making a broad and beautiful sweep, the river St. John here -forms a sudden turn, and becoming contracted to the width of about fifty -yards, the waters make a plunge of perhaps forty feet, which is mostly -in a solid mass, though rather disposed to form the third of a circle -from shore to shore. Below this pitch, and extending for about two -miles, is a continued succession of falls, which make the entire descent -upwards of eighty feet. The water rushes through what might be termed a -winding chasm, whose walls are perhaps one hundred and fifty or two -hundred feet high, and perpendicular. - -[Illustration: FALLS OF ST. JOHN.] - -Generally speaking, the entire distance from the first fall to the last, -presents a perfect sheet of foam, though around every jutting point is a -black and apparently bottomless pool, which, when I peered into them, -were alive with salmon, leaping into the air or swimming on the margin -of the foam. On the western side of the Falls, to a great extent, the -original forest has been suffered to remain, and a walk through their -shadowy recesses is an uncommon treat; and on this side also is the ruin -of an old saw-mill, which, for a wonder, actually adds to the -picturesque beauty of the spot. On the eastern side of the Falls is a -commanding hill, which has been stripped of its forest, and now presents -a stump-field of three hundred acres. It is a desolate spot, but in -strict keeping with the enterprise of the province. The expense of -clearing, or rather half clearing the hill in question, was six thousand -dollars, and it was the original intention of the mother-government to -erect thereon an extensive fortress; but owing to the birth of a -sensible reflection, the idea was abandoned. The barracks of the place -as they now exist, consist of two log-houses, which are occupied by a -dozen sprigs of the British army. And thus endeth my account of the most -picturesque spot in New Brunswick, which, I doubt not, may hereafter -become a fashionable place of summer resort. - - - - - CHAPTER XXI. - - -The Hermit of Aroostook. - - Mouth of the Aroostook. July. - -I was on my way down the river St. John, in New Brunswick, and having -heard that the Aroostook, (one of its principal tributaries,) was famous -for its salmon and a picturesque waterfall, I had taken up my quarters -at a tavern near the mouth of that stream, with a view of throwing the -fly for a few days, and adding to my stock of sketches. I arrived at -this place in the forenoon, and after depositing my luggage in an upper -room, and ordering a dinner, I proceeded to arrange my tackle and -pencils for an afternoon expedition. This preparatory business I -performed in the sitting-room of the tavern, where there happened to be -seated at the time, and reading the New York Albion, an oddly-dressed -but gentlemanly-looking man. In form, he was tall and slender, appeared -to be about fifty years of age, and there was such an air of refinement -in his appearance and manners that he attracted my particular attention. -I said nothing, however, and quietly continued my snelling operations, -until summoned to dinner. While at the table, I sent for the landlord, -to inquire about the stranger whom I had noticed, and his reply was as -follows:—“His name is Robert Egger; he is a strange but good man, and -lives the life of a recluse; his house is above the Fall, on the -Aroostook, and about four miles from here. He has been in this part of -the country for many years, but I seldom see him at my house, excepting -when he wants to read the news, put a letter in the office, or purchase -a bag of flour.” - -With this intelligence I was quite delighted, for I fancied that I had -discovered a _character_, which eventually proved to be the case. On -returning to the room where the stranger was seated, I introduced myself -by offering him a cigar; and while fixing my rod, asked him a few -questions about the surrounding country. His replies proved him to be an -intelligent man, and as he happened to express himself a lover of the -“gentle art,” I offered him the use of some fishing tackle, and invited -him to accompany me. He refused my offer, but accepted my invitation, -and we started for the Aroostook. He officiated as my guide; and when we -approached the river, which was from two to five feet deep, about one -hundred yards wide, very rapid, and filled with bridge piers in ruin, we -jumped into a Frenchman’s canoe, and were landed on the northern shore. -Here we came into a road which passed directly along the bank of the -river; this we followed for one mile, until we arrived at a -flouring-mill, situated at the mouth of a large and very beautiful -brook, where the road made a sudden turn towards the north. - -Directly opposite the mill, on the Aroostook side, was a narrow and -rapid rift, where, my friend told me, I was sure to hook a salmon. I did -not like the appearance of the place, but took his advice and waded in. -I tried my luck for some thirty minutes, but could not tempt a single -fish. This, my friend did not understand; he said there were salmon -there, and thought that the fault was mine. I knew what he wanted, and -therefore handed him my rod, that he might try his fortune. He fished -for nearly half an hour, and then broke the fly-tip of my rod. As I was -cherishing an earnest desire to take at least one salmon, under the -Fall, which I thought the only likely place to succeed, and towards -which I had set my face, this little accident made me exceedingly -nervous. My friend attempted to console me by remarking, that as it was -getting towards evening, we had better return to the tavern, and take a -fresh start in the morning. But this proposition did not suit me at all, -and I promptly said so. “Just as you please,” replied my companion, and -so we repaired the rod, and continued up the river. Very rapid, with -many and deep pools, was this portion of the stream; and our course -along the shore, over logs and fallen trees, through tangled underbrush -and around rocky points—was attended with every imaginable difficulty, -and so continued for at least two miles. On coming in sight of the Fall, -however, I was more than amply repaid for all my trouble, by the -prospect which there presented itself. It was, perhaps, one hour before -sunset, and there was a delightful atmosphere resting upon the -landscape. - -Directly before me, in the extreme distance, and immediately under the -crimson sun, was a narrow rocky gorge, through which foamed the waters -of the Aroostook, over a precipice of some thirty feet; and just below -the Fall, rose a perpendicular rock, to the height of nearly a hundred -feet, dividing the stream into two channels. The entire middle distance -of the prospect was composed of a broad and almost circular basin of -very deep and dark water, skirted mostly with a rocky shore, while -directly across the surface of this pool, winding down the stream, was a -line of foam, distinguishing the main channel; while the foreground of -this picture consisted of a gravelly beach, two bark wigwams, several -canoes, and some half dozen Indians, who were enjoying their evening -meal by the side of an expiring fire. - -We held a brief conversation with the Indians, and found out that they -had visited the basin for the purpose of spearing salmon by torchlight; -and while my companion sat down in their midst to rest himself, I jumped -into one of the canoes, and paddled to the foot of the fall, to try one -of my fancy flies. I fished for about thirty minutes—caught one small -salmon—lost two very large ones, and returned to the Indian camp, where -I had previously concluded to spend the night, provided my guide did not -insist upon returning to the tavern by moonlight. It so happened, -however, that my interesting plan was vetoed by my companion, who told -me that his dwelling was only a mile off, and that I must go and spend -the night with him. I willingly assented to this proposition, and having -picked up the salmon, we engaged the Indians to ferry us across the -basin, and proceeded on our way. Our path was somewhat narrow, crooked, -and intricate, and as I listened to the roaring of the waterfall, and -thought of the mystery which hung over my companion, I could not but -wonder what I was about, to what strange place I was going. - -In due time, however, we emerged from the woods, and came out upon the -side of a gentle hill, which sloped to the margin of the Aroostook, and -was sufficiently open to command an extensive view of the river. Here my -friend told me to tarry a few moments, for he had a canoe hidden among -some willows, and wished to hunt it up, that we might recross the river -once more. I heard his words, but neglected to assist him, for my whole -attention was riveted by the scene upon which I was gazing. The sober -livery of twilight had settled upon the world, and the flowing of the -river was so peaceful, that I could distinctly hear the hum of -unnumbered insects, as they sported in the air. On the opposite shore -was a lofty forest-covered hill, and at the foot of it a small clearing, -in the centre of which stood a rude log cabin—the dwelling-place of my -friend. On my left, the river presented the appearance of a lake: and -apparently in the centre of it were two of the most exquisitely foliaged -islands imaginable. The valley seemed completely hemmed in with -mountains, and these, together with a glowing sky, were all distinctly -mirrored in the sleeping waters. Charming beyond compare was this -evening landscape, and the holy time “was quiet as a nun, breathless -with adoration.” But now my companion summoned me to a seat in the -canoe, and we passed over the stream in safety; he hauled up his -shallop, laid aside his paddle, and, slapping me on the shoulder, led -the way to his cabin, repeating, in a loud clear voice, the following -words: - - “Alone I live, between four hills,— - Fame Roostook runs between;— - At times, wild animals appear, - But men are seldom seen.” - -[Illustration: ROBERT EGGER’S FARM-HOUSE.] - -On entering the hut, which was now quite dark, as it only contained one -window, my companion turned abruptly round, and after making a -frolicsome remark about my being in his power, he exclaimed—“That poetry -I repeated to you just now was a home-spun article, but as you might -fancy something a little more civilized, I would say to you, my young -friend, in the language of Wordsworth’s ‘Solitary,’ - - “This is my domain, my cell, - My hermitage, my cabin, what you will— - I love it better than a snail his house, - But now ye shall be feasted with our best.” - -Soon as these words had fallen from his lips, my friend proceeded to -collect some wood for a fire, and while I was left to kindle the flame, -he seized a tin-pail and went after some spring water, which he said was -some distance off. In a few moments, I produced a sufficient quantity of -light to answer my purpose, and then took occasion to survey the room, -into which I had been thus strangely introduced. Everything about me -seemed to be oddity itself. First was the huge fire-place, rudely made -of rough stones and filled with ashes; then the blackish appearance of -the log walls around, and the hemlock rafters above. In one corner stood -a kind of wooden box, filled with blankets, which answered the purpose -of a bed,—and in front of the only window in the cabin was a pine table, -on which stood an inkstand and some writing paper, and under which sat a -large gray cat, watching my movements with a suspicious eye. In one -place stood a wooden chest, and a half-barrel of meal, and the only -things in the room, to sit upon were a couple of wooden chairs. The -crevices in the walls were stopped up with rags and clay, and from -various rafters depended bundles of mint, hemlock, and other useful -productions of the wood. A rusty old gun, and a home-made fishing rod -occupied one corner; and on every side, resting upon wooden pegs, were -numerous shelves, of every size and form, which were appropriated to a -variety of uses. On one or two of them were the cooking utensils of my -friend; on another, a lot of smoky books; and on others, a little of -every thing, from a box of salt or paper of tea, down to a spool of -thread or a paper of needles. - -In a few moments my friend re-entered the cabin, and immediately began -to prepare our evening meal, which consisted of bread, fried pork, and -salmon, and a cup of tea. Plain was our food, but it was as nicely -cooked as if it had been done by a pretty girl, instead of an old man; -and the comic pomposity with which every little matter was attended to, -afforded me much amusement. One thing I remember, which struck me as -particularly funny. My host was talking about the conduct of Sir Robert -Peel and the British Parliament, and, while in the midst of his -discourse, opened a trap-door leading to his cellar, and descended -therein. I knew not what he was after, and waited his re-appearance with -some anxiety, when suddenly he bobbed up his ghost-like head, resumed -the thread of his remarks, and held forth in one hand a huge piece of -fat pork, and as he became excited about the conduct of the Prime -Minister, he occasionally slapped the pork with the remaining hand, and -then shook it in the air, as if it had been one of the murderous -Irishmen to whom he was occasionally alluding. He reminded me of the -grave-digger in Hamlet. I also remember, that when my friend was -kneading his bread, the idea entered his head, from some remark that I -had dropped, that I did not comprehend the meaning of a certain passage -in Shakspeare, so he immediately wiped one of his hands, leaned over for -his ragged copy of the mighty bard, and immediately settled the question -to our mutual satisfaction. - -Supper being ended, I pulled out of my pocket a couple of cigars which I -had brought with me, and we then seated ourselves comfortably before the -fire and entered into a systematic conversation. The greater part of the -talking was done by my companion, and in the course of the evening, I -gathered the following particulars respecting his own history. - -He told me he was a native of Hampshire, England, and had spent his -boyhood in the city of London, as a counting-house clerk. He claimed a -good name for his family, and added that Mr. Jerdan, editor of the -London Literary Gazette, was his brother-in-law, having married his only -sister. He avowed himself about sixty years of age, and had been a -resident of New Brunswick ever since the year 1809. He first came across -the Atlantic as a government agent, for the transaction of business -connected with the fur trade; and when he settled in the province, the -whole country was an untrodden wilderness. Since that time he had -followed a variety of employments, had acquired a competence, but lost -it through the rascality of friends. He told me he was a widower, and -that he had one son, who resided in Frederickton, and was rapidly -acquiring a reputation for his knowledge of engineering. “It does my -heart good to remember this fact,” continued my friend, “and I do hope -that my son will not disgrace his family, as some people seem to think I -have done. The God-forsaken inhabitants of this region have a habit of -calling me a crazy old man. God be praised,—I know they overshoot the -mark in that particular; if I have lost my reason, I can tell the -mocking world, that I have endured trouble enough to make even a -philosopher, a raving maniac. By patient and unwearied toil, I have won -two small fortunes, but both of them were snatched away, and I was left -a beggar. The Home Government took pity on me, and offered to make me a -present of land, adding that I was at liberty to make my own selection. -I accepted their offer and selected five hundred acres on the Aroostook, -making the Fall we visited this evening the centre of my domain. I duly -received a deed for the property, and having concluded that my -fellow-men were as tired of me as I was of them, I bolted for the -wilderness and have lived here ever since. Yes, sir, for twelve years -have I been the only human inmate of this rude cabin; I ought to except, -however, ‘a lucid interval’ of some nine months, which I spent in -England, about four years ago, visiting my friends and the favourite -haunts of my childhood. To enjoy even that little luxury, I was -compelled to sacrifice a portion of my land.” - -“But why do you not sell your entire property?” I remarked, “and take up -your abode among men, where your knowledge might be made available?” - -“Knowledge, indeed!” replied the hermit philosopher; “all that I -possess, you might easily hide in the bowl of an acorn. I do know enough -to cast my eyes heavenward, when crushed by misfortune, but the same -knowledge was possessed by the worm upon which I accidentally trod this -morning. What is man, at his best estate, but a worm? But this is not -answering your question. My only reason for not selling this property -is, that I cannot find a purchaser. Most gladly would I jump at the -chance, and then I _would_ mingle with my fellow-men, and endeavour to -be _of_ them. Travellers, who sometimes pass through this region, tell -me that my property is worth 5000 dollars; I know it to be worth at -least that amount, but I should be glad to sell it for 3000 dollars, and -that too, on a credit of ten years. The interest would, indeed, be a -meagre income, but I have schooled myself in the ways of poverty; and -though it once cost me 2000 dollars to carry me through a single year, I -can tell you that my expenses for the last five years have not averaged -more than 20 dollars, which I have had to obtain as best I could. But -you must not misunderstand me. The little clearing which surrounds my -rookery contains six acres, and, as I cultivate them with all diligence, -they keep me from actual starvation.” - -“But it strikes me, my dear sir, that you ask rather an extravagant -price for your uncultivated land?” I asked this question with a view of -obtaining some information in reference to the valley of the Aroostook, -and was not disappointed. The reply of my friend was as follows: - -“I can convince you that you are mistaken. In the first place, the water -privilege which my land covers, is acknowledged to be the most valuable -on the Aroostook, and I may add that it is abundantly fertile. And then -think of the valley, at the very threshold of which I am located. It is -one of the most beautiful and luxuriant in this northern wilderness; and -the only thing against it, though I say it, that should not, is the fact -that nearly five miles of its outlet belongs to the English Government, -while the remainder belongs to the United States. The whole of it ought -to be yours, but if it were, I would not live here a year; I am near -enough to you now; directly on the boundary-line between your country -and mine. The Aroostook, I verily believe, is one of the most important -branches of the St. John. Its general course is easterly, but it is -exceedingly serpentine, and according to some of your best surveyors, -drains upwards of a million acres of the best soil in Maine. Above my -place, there is hardly a spot that might not be navigated by a small -steam-boat; and I believe the time is not far distant when your -enterprising Yankees will have a score of boats employed here in -carrying their grain to market. Before that time comes, however, you -must dig a canal or build a railroad around my beautiful waterfall, -which I am sure could be done for 20,000 dollars. An extensive lumbering -business is now carried on in the valley, but its future prosperity must -depend upon its agriculture. Already are its shores dotted with -well-cultivated farms, and every year is adding to their number, and the -rural beauty of those already in existence. The soil of this valley is -rich, and composed principally of what is called _alluvial_ (not -intervale) land, together with the quality known as _upland_. In many -portions, however, you will find some of the most charming intervales in -the world. The trees of this region are similar to those of your -northern states. The staple crop of the Aroostook farmer is wheat; owing -to the shortness of our seasons, corn does not arrive at perfection, and -its cultivation is neglected. Rye, barley, and oats, all flourish here, -but much more buckwheat is raised than any other grain besides wheat. -Grasses flourish here in great perfection, and the farmer of Aroostook -will yet send to market immense quantities of cattle. As to the climate, -it is not so severe as is generally supposed. Snow falls early, and -continues late, which prevents the ground from freezing very deep. And -when summer comes, as you may testify, the weather is sufficiently warm -for every necessary purpose. Now, Sir, do you not think I have made out -a clear case?” I answered in the affirmative, and thanked him for the -information he had given me. Like Oliver Twist, however, I was anxious -for “more,” and therefore endeavoured to start him on another subject. -In this laudable effort I fully succeeded; and by merely expressing the -opinion that he must lead a very lonely life in this remote wilderness. - -“Not at all, not at all,” replied my friend. “It is my good fortune to -belong to that class of men who depend upon books, the works of nature, -and themselves for happiness, and not upon a selfish and heartless -world. As to my books, they are not very abundant, nor are they bound in -fancy morocco, but the substance of them is of the right sort. Foremost -among them is the Bible, which tells even a poor devil like me that he -is a man. Perfect in their generation are the truths of this glorious -old book; they have an important bearing upon everything; and they -should be studied and cherished with jealous care. But the earth-born -minds, with whom I hold daily communion, are the mighty Shakspeare, the -splendid Gibbon, the good and loving brother poets Thompson and -Wordsworth, the gifted but wayward Burns, the elegant and witty Addison, -and the ponderous Johnson. These are the minds which always afford me -solid satisfaction. As to the immense herd who keep the printing-presses -of the present day constantly employed, I know nothing about them, and -care still less. And now as to the pleasures which are brought to me by -the revolving seasons. They are indeed manifold, and it is pleasant to -remember that ‘Nature never did betray the heart that loved her.’ The -hills which surround my cabin, I look upon as familiar friends, not only -when crowned with a wreath of snow, but when rejoicing in their summer -bloom; and a more peaceful and heart-soothing stream can nowhere be -found, than the one which flows along by my door, and you know from -experience that it abounds in the finest of salmon and trout. The -surrounding woods furnish me with game, but their greatest treasures are -the ten thousand beautiful birds, which make melody in their little -hearts, and afford me unalloyed pleasure for at least one half the year. -I seldom have occasion to kill these feathered minstrels for food, and -the consequence is, whenever I go out into my fields to work, they -gather around me without fear, and often come so near, as to be in my -very way. The quail and the wren, the jay and the blue-bird, the -mocking-bird, the partridge, the fish-hawk, the eagle and the crow, and -also the swallow, the owl, and whip-poor-will, all build their nests -within a stone’s throw of my door, and they know that the friendless old -man will do them no harm. And then what exquisite pleasure do I -continually enjoy in watching the ever-varying changes of the year! -First, when the primrose tells me that the rains are over and gone, and -I go forth in the refreshing sunshine to sow my seeds; secondly, when -the glorious summer is in its prime, with its dewy mornings and lovely -twilights; also in the sober autumnal time, when I thoughtfully count -the leaves floating on the bosom of the stream; and then again when the -cold winds of winter are howling around my cabin, and I sit in my -pleasant solitude before a roaring fire, building palaces in my mind, as -I peer into the burning embers. Yes, sir, I have learned to live without -excitement, and to depend upon myself for the companionship I need. I -do, indeed, occasionally steal out of my beautiful vale, and mingle with -my fellow-men; but I always return perfectly contented with my lot. -After all, I do not believe that the world _could_ add greatly to my -stock of happiness, even if I were a worshipper of Mammon, a brawling -politician, or a responsible statesman.” - -“But, Mr. Egger, it strikes me that your manner of life is not in -keeping with the Bible, for which you have expressed so much reverence.” - -“That may be true,” was the reply, “but I make no sanctimonious -pretensions. I do but little to promote the happiness of my fellow-men, -and I congratulate myself with the idea that I do as little to make them -miserable. The influence of my example amounts to nothing, and I give no -bread to the poor, because I have none to give. But let us drop the -subject; I feel that your questions may so annoy me, that I shall be -compelled to abandon the glorious old wilderness, and become a denizen -of the busy and noisy world.” - -A breach having thus been made in our discourse, I examined my watch and -found it to be near twelve o’clock. My companion took the hint, and -immediately proceeded to fix a sleeping-place that would accommodate us -both. This was done by spreading the clothes of the wooden bedstead upon -the floor. While going through with this little operation, he held high -above his head a ragged old bed-quilt, and asked me what I thought Queen -Victoria would say, if she had such an article to rest her royal limbs -upon? He then pointed to the particular spot which he wanted me to -occupy, giving as a reason for the request, that there was a hole on the -opposite side of his mansion, where toads, rats, and weasels were -frequently in the habit of entering, and he was afraid they might annoy -me, though he had never been disturbed by their nocturnal visits. This -information appeared to me somewhat peculiar, but did not prevent me -from undressing myself to lie down. When about half through this -business, however, I was actually compelled to take a seat on account of -a laughing-fit, brought upon me by one or two stories, which my host -related for my special benefit. What a strange man indeed! thought I; -and making another effort, I tumbled into bed. In the meantime, my -companion had stripped himself of everything but his shirt, and, in -spite of the frailty of his “spindle shanks,” was throwing himself into -the attitudes for which Kemble was distinguished, whose acting he had -often witnessed in olden times. I was already quite exhausted with -excess of laughter, and I verily believed that the queer antics of the -anchorite and philosopher would be the death of me. But I felt that I -must go to sleep, and, in self-defence, partly covered my head with the -end of a quilt, and almost swore that I would not be disturbed again. - -I did not swear, however, and was consequently again disturbed. I had -just fixed my head upon the pillow, as I thought for the last time, when -I was startled by a tremendous yell proceeding from without the cabin. I -rushed out of the house, as if the Old Harry himself had been after me, -and beheld my spare and venerable friend, sitting upon a stump, gazing -upon the rising moon, and listening to the distant howl of a wolf, with -one of his feet dangling to and fro, like the pendulum of a clock. -“Wasn’t that a musical yell, my boy?” were the first words spoken by the -hermit mad-cap; and then he went on to point out all the finer features -of the scene spread out before us. Silently flowed the stream, grand and -sublime looked the mountains, clear and very blue the sky, spirit-like -the moon and stars, and above the neighbouring waterfall ascended a -column of spray, which was fast melting into a snowy cloud. After -enjoying this picture for a reasonable time, my companion then proposed -that we should enjoy a swim in the river, to which arrangement I -assented, even as did the wedding guest of Coleridge to the command of -the Ancient Mariner. Our bath ended, we returned to the cabin, and in -the course of half-an-hour, the hermit and the stranger were side by -side in the arms of sleep. - -On opening my eyes in the morning, the pleasant sunshine was flooding -the floors through the open door, and my friend, who had risen without -disturbing me, was frying some trout which he had just taken in the -stream. I arose, rolled up the bed, and prepared myself for breakfast, -which was particularly relished by the giver and the receiver. I spent -the forenoon rambling about the estate of my old friend, and enjoying -the surrounding scenery; I then proposed to him that he should go down -and be my guest at the tavern on the St. John for a day or two, which -invitation was accepted. On my return, I took a sketch of the secluded -vale where stands the cottage of my friend, also a profile of his own -handsome face, and a view of his waterfall. The time of my departure -having arrived, I left him with a heavy heart—I for my distant -city-home, and he to return to his solitary cottage among the mountains. - - - - - CHAPTER XXII. - - -The River St. John. - - Woodstock. July. - -I have recently performed a pilgrimage along the valley of the Lower St. -John, and as I am about to leave the river, it is meet that I should -give my reader a record of my observations. The distance from the Falls -of St. John to the city of that name, is two hundred and twenty miles. -The width varies from a quarter of a mile to nearly two miles, and the -depth from two to forty feet. That portion lying north of Frederickton, -abounds in rapids and shallows, and is navigated only by flat-bottomed -boats, which are taken up stream by horse power, but descend with the -current. Here, for the most part, the shores are mountainous, and only -partly cultivated, with high and picturesque banks; the lowest portion, -however, is of a level character, and presents the appearance of an -ancient and highly cultivated country, and is navigated by steam-boats, -and the common sail craft of the country. The soil, all along the -shores, is good, but seems better adapted for grass than wheat, and I -can see no good reason for its not becoming greatly distinguished as a -grazing country. - -The river is not distinguished for any pictorial feature, (though it -abounds in beautiful landscapes,) excepting a place called the Narrows, -situated at the southern extremity. At this point, the stream is not -more than five hundred yards wide, and as it is bounded on either side -by a high, rocky barrier, the current ordinarily passes through with -great rapidity. The tides of the ocean ascend about thirty miles, and it -is only when the tide is high that the point in question can be -navigated. Though these Narrows are a great annoyance to the navigator, -by the lover of the picturesque they are highly esteemed. Not only are -they beautiful in themselves, but, owing to the peculiarity of the -place, it is frequently the case that the broad expanse of water above -it, is covered with a fleet of sloops, schooners, steam-boats, -tow-boats, and timber-crafts, which present a peculiar and agreeable -panorama. The river abounds with salmon and shad, the former of which, -though rather small, may be taken by the angler in the principal -tributaries. They are not sufficiently abundant, however, to constitute -an important article of commerce, and the common modes for taking them -are with the spear, and the drift-net. - -The principal towns on the St. John are, Woodstock, French Village, -Frederickton, and St. John. The first of these is one hundred and fifty -miles from the mouth, and though a ragged, yet an interesting village. -So far as its natural productions are concerned, I am disposed to -compliment this Province in the highest terms; but I must say that the -ignorance, idleness, and gouging character of its common people, have -made me quite willing to take my departure therefrom. The expenses of -travelling are enormous, and so also are all the little incidentals -which go to make a man comfortable. - -The stage-route from the Grand Falls to St. John passes through -Woodstock, but the distance from this place to the American town of -Houlton, is ten miles, and in this direction there is also an -established stage-route to Bangor. - -The next place on the St. John, of any note, is French Village. It -usually contains a thousand souls—most of them Indians. They live in -frame and log-houses, and though they pretend to do some farming, they -are chiefly engaged in hunting and fishing. They are a good-looking -race, speak English fluently, and are the followers of a Catholic -priest, who lives among them, and officiates in a small chapel, which -was built by the Jesuits at an early day. This society is said to be one -of the most wealthy in the Province. The chief of the village is one -Louis Beir. He lives in a very comfortable, and well-furnished house, is -rather a handsome man, dresses in a half-savage manner, and while he -offers his visitor a comfortable chair, he invariably seats himself upon -the floor in true Indian fashion. - -Frederickton is at the head of steam-boat navigation, and distant from -St. John eighty miles. Between these two places there runs a morning and -evening boat, and the summer travel is very extensive. Frederickton -contains about eight thousand inhabitants, composed principally, of -Irish, Scotch, and English. It contains three principal streets, running -north and south, and some half-dozen handsome public buildings, -including an Episcopal church, after the Tuscan order, a Court House and -a College. The town is situated on a level plain, and its suburbs are -made exceedingly beautiful by the number of rural residences which -attract the eye in every direction. The elm and poplar both seem to -flourish here, and add much to the picturesqueness of the place and -vicinity. The business of Frederickton is only of a second-rate -character, and it has become what it is, merely from the fact that it -has heretofore been the seat of Government. This fact has also had a -tendency to collect a good society in the place, and its “ton,” though -in a small way have been disposed to cut quite a dash. The “mother -Parliament,” I believe, have recently removed the seat of government to -St. John, and the lovers of Frederickton are sorry, and a little angry. - -The city of St. John stands at the mouth of the river of that name, and -is also laved by the waters of the Bay of Fundy. I hate cities, but -suppose that I must stop a moment in the one alluded to. It is a -business place, planted among rocks, contains some twenty thousand -inhabitants, (two-thirds of whom are Irish,) and in its port, at the -present time, is moored a fleet of two hundred ships. Its public -buildings are numerous, the finest of which are the Court House, an -Episcopal church, of the Doric order, another after the Gothic, and a -Presbyterian church, after the Corinthian order. The city is defended by -a fortress, which presents a handsome appearance as you approach the -port. The merchants of the place are chiefly employed in the -square-timber trade, and have heretofore done an extensive business. -This trade, however, I am inclined to believe, is rapidly running out. -On the opposite side of the St. John’s river is a picturesque point, or -hill, which is called Carlton Hill. It is surmounted by a massive -block-house, and commands an extensive prospect of the Bay of Fundy, the -spring tides of which rise to the height of sixty feet, and when coming -in make a terrible roar. - - - - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - -The Penobscot River. - - Off the Coast of Maine. July. - -A week ago I was fighting with mosquitoes and flies, on the head waters -of the Penobscot, and now that I am upon the ocean once more, I fancy -that my feelings are allied to those of an old moose that I lately saw -standing in a mountain lake, with the water up to his chin. The noble -river which I have mentioned, “is all my fancy painted it,” and in spite -of its insect inhabitants, I shall ever remember it with pleasure. - -The length of this stream, from the mouth of its bay, to where its -principal branches come together, is about one hundred and forty miles; -from this junction, to the fountain head of the west branch, the -distance is supposed to be one hundred and fifty miles, while the east -branch is probably only one hundred miles in length. Both of these -streams rise in the midst of a mountain wilderness, looming above which, -is old Katahden, the loftiest mountain in Maine, and elder brother to -Mount Washington, in New Hampshire. This mountain is distant from -Moosehead Lake only about twenty miles; but it towers into the sky so -grandly, that nearly all the people who inhabit the northern part of -Maine, look upon it as a familiar friend. The two branches of the -Penobscot, run through a mountainous region, both of them abounding in -rapids, though the west branch contains a number of picturesque falls. -The soil of this region, generally speaking, is good, but remains in its -original wilderness. Its stationary inhabitants are few and far between; -but it gives employment to about three thousand lumbermen. They spend -the winter in wielding the axe in the forests, and the spring and summer -in driving down the stream logs which they have prepared for the -saw-mills, which are mostly situated on the lower part of the Penobscot. -Nine months in the year they labour without ceasing, but usually -appropriate to themselves a three months holiday, which is the entire -autumn. They are a young and powerfully built race of men, mostly New -Englanders, generally unmarried, and, though rude and intemperate in -their manners, are very intelligent. They seem to have a passion for -their wild and toilsome life, and, judging from their dresses, I should -think possess a fine eye for the comic and fantastic. The entire apparel -of an individual usually consists of a pair of grey pantaloons, and two -red flannel shirts, a pair of long boots, and a woollen covering for the -head, and all these things are worn at one and the same time. The -head-covering alluded to, when first purchased, is what might be called -a hat; but the wearers invariably take particular pains to transform the -article into such queer shapes, as to render it indescribable. Sometimes -they take the crown and tic it in the shape of a fool’s-cap, and -sometimes they trim the rims with a jack-knife, into many different -fashions. Their wages vary from twenty to thirty dollars per month; and -they are chiefly employed by the lumber merchants of Bangor, who furnish -them with necessary supplies. - -The Penobscot, I suppose, is unquestionably the most fruitful lumber -river in the United States, and its pine and hemlock forests seem yet to -be inexhaustible. And the State of Maine is indebted to the lumber -business for many of its beautiful cities and towns. - -From the Forks of the Penobscot to Bangor, the distance is about sixty -miles. This portion of the river is about a quarter of a mile wide. The -banks are rather low and level, and somewhat cultivated. The water is -deep and clear, and the current strong. Generally speaking, the scenery -of the river is not remarkable, and were it not for its numerous -islands, it might be considered tame, by the lover of a mountain land. -The islands alluded to, however, are exceedingly beautiful. Covered as -they are with venerable elms, and containing no underbrush, but a -continuous plot of green, they have all the appearance of cultivated -parks. The stage-route, from Woodstock, after reaching the Penobscot, -continues along the eastern bank, and as the coaches are comfortable, -and the horses good, the ride is very pleasant. The principal village, -of which there are four, is Old Town. It is a busy little place, and the -present termination of a railroad from Bangor, which is twelve miles -distant. Directly opposite Old Town is a small island, where reside a -remnant of the Penobscot Indians. They number some four hundred souls, -and are just sufficiently civilized to lead a very miserable sort of -life. - -I come now to speak of Bangor. It is a well-built and handsome city, -eighty miles from the ocean, and contains about eight thousand -inhabitants. It is at the head of tide water navigation, and has a good -harbour, where I counted from one point near two hundred sails. The -principal article of trade is lumber, which is distinguished for its -good qualities. All the heaviest merchants are engaged in the lumber -trade, and almost every body deals in it to a limited extent. A few -thousand shingles will pay your tailor for a coat, a few loads of plank -will settle your account with the butcher, and bundles of clap-boards -are gladly received by the grocer, in exchange for his tea and sugar. - -With the people of Bangor I was much pleased. Their manners and habits -are stamped with the true New England character, they mind their own -business, and are distinguished for their intelligence, virtue, and -hospitality. When I reached this place, my beard was more than half as -long as that of the Wandering Jew; and it took me nearly a whole day to -forget the bad French which I had acquired in Canada and New Brunswick, -and transform myself into the semblance of a civilized man. I had been -in the woods for so long a time, that I seized the first paper I saw to -find out whether I had forgotten to read. You may readily imagine, -therefore, what a refreshing effect the appearance and conversation of -intelligent people had upon my feelings. But the class of citizens who -made the deepest impression upon me, were the children of Bangor. I met -them at every corner, and heard their happy voices in every dwelling, -and a more perfectly beautiful race of creatures, I never before saw in -any city. - -The distance from Bangor to the ocean is eighty miles. For twenty miles -the river averages three quarters of a mile in width, when it gradually -widens into an expansive bay or gulf. The water is deep, always covered -with vessels, and abounds with salmon, which are only taken with the -net. The shores are hilly, and well-cultivated, and the towns of -Bucksport, Frankfort, Belfast and Thomaston, as you pass them, present -each a thriving and pleasant appearance. - - - - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - -Moosehead Lake.—The River Kennebeck. - - Portland. August. - -Moosehead Lake is the largest and the wildest in New England. It lies in -the central portion of the State of Maine, and distant from the ocean -near one hundred and fifty miles. Its length is fifty miles, and its -width from five to fifteen. It is embosomed among a brotherhood of -mountains, whose highest peak has been christened with the beautiful -name of Katahden. All of them, from base to summit, are covered with a -dense forest, in which the pine is by far the most abundant. It is the -grand centre of the only wilderness region in New England, whose -principal denizens are wild beasts. During the summer months, its -tranquil waters remain in unbroken solitude, unless some scenery-hunting -pilgrim, like myself, should happen to steal along its shores in his -birchen canoe. But in the winter the case is very different, for then, -all along its borders, may be heard the sound of the axe, wielded by a -thousand men. Then it is that an immense quantity of logs are cut, to be -manufactured into lumber at the extensive mills down the Kennebeck, -which is the only outlet to the lake. - -A winter at Moosehead must be attended with much that is rare, and wild, -and exciting, not only to the wealthy proprietor who has a hundred men -to superintend, but even to the toiling chopper. Look at a single -specimen of the gladdening scenes enacted in that forest world. It is an -awful night, the winds wailing, the snow falling, and the forests making -a moan. Before you is a spacious, but rudely built log cabin, almost -covered with snow. But now, above the shriek of the storm, and the howl -of the wolf, you hear a long, loud shout, from a score of human mouths. -You enter the cabin, and lo, a merry band of noble men, some lying on a -buffalo-robe, and some seated on a log, while the huge fire before them -reveals every feature and wrinkle of their countenances, and makes a -picture of the richest colouring. Now the call is for a song, and a -young man sings a song of Scotland, which is his native land; a mug of -cider then goes round, after which an old pioneer clears his throat for -a hunting legend of the times of old; now the cunning jest is heard; and -peals of hearty laughter shake the building; and now a soul-stirring -speech is delivered in favour of Henry Clay. The fire-place is again -replenished, when with a happy and contented mind each woodman retires -to his couch, to sleep, and to dream of his wife and children, or of the -buxom damsel whom he loves. - -The number of logs which these men cut in a single winter is almost -incredible, and the business of conveying them to the lake upon the snow -gives employment to a great many additional men and their oxen. The -consequence is, that large quantities of flour, potatoes, pork, and hay, -are consumed; and as these things are mostly supplied by the farmers of -the Kennebeck, winter is the busiest season of the year throughout the -region. When the lake is released from its icy fetters in the spring, a -new feature of the logging business comes into operation, which is -called rafting. A large raft contains about eighteen thousand logs, and -covers a space of some ten acres. In towing them to the Kennebeck, a -small steam-boat is employed, which, when seen from the summit of a -hill, looks like a living creature struggling with a mighty incubus. But -the most picturesque thing connected with this business is a floating -log-cabin, called a Raft House, which ever attends a raft on its way to -the river. During the summer, as before stated, Moosehead Lake is a -perfect solitude, for the “log chopper” has become a “log driver” on the -Kennebeck,—the little steamer being moored in its sheltering bay, near -the tavern at the south end of the lake, and the toiling oxen having -been permitted to enjoy their summer sabbath on the farm of their -master. - -The islands of Moosehead Lake, of any size, are only four; Moose and -Deer Islands at the southern extremity, Sugar Island in the large -eastern bay, and Farm Island in a north-western direction from that. All -of these are covered with beautiful groves, but the time is not far -distant when they will be cultivated farms. Trout are the principal fish -that flourish in its waters, and may be caught at any time in great -abundance. And thereby hangs a fish story. - -It was the sunset hour, and with one of my companions I had gone to a -rocky ledge for the purpose of trying my luck. My bait was squirrel -meat, and I was the first to throw the line. It had hardly reached the -water, before I had the pleasure of striking and securing a two pound -trout. This threw my friend into a perfect fever of excitement, so that -he was exceedingly slow in cutting up the squirrels; and it may be -readily supposed that I was somewhat excited myself; so I “grabbed” the -animal out of his hands, and in less than a “jiffy,” and with my teeth, -made a number of good baits. The conclusion of the whole matter was, -that in less than forty minutes we had caught nearly seventy pounds of -salmon trout. But the fish of Moosehead are not to be compared with -those of Horicon in point of delicacy, though they are very large, and -very abundant. The reason of this is, that its waters are not remarkably -clear, and a good deal of its bottom is muddy. Moose River, which is the -principal tributary of the Lake, is a narrow, deep, and picturesque -stream, where may be caught the common trout, weighing from one to five -pounds. - -In this portion of Maine every variety of forest game may be found, but -the principal kinds are the grey wolf, the black bear, the deer, and the -moose. Winter is the appropriate season for their capture, when they -afford a deal of sport to the hunter, and furnish a variety of food to -the forest labourers. Deer are so very plentiful, that a certain -resident told me, that, in the deep snow of last winter, he caught some -dozen of them alive, and having cut a slit in their ears, let them go, -that they might recount to their kindred their marvellous escape. But -the homeliest animal, the most abundant, and the best for eating, is the -moose. I did not kill one, but spent a night with an old hunter who did. -During the warm summer nights these animals, for the purpose of getting -clear of the black-fly, are in the habit of taking to the water, where, -with nothing but their heads in sight, they remain for hours. It was the -evening of one of those cloudless nights, whose memory can never die. We -were alone far up the Moose River, and it seemed to me, “we were the -first that ever burst into that forest sea.” Embarked on board a -swan-like canoe, and with our rifles ready, we carefully and silently -descended the stream. How can I describe the lovely pictures that we -passed? Now we peered into a dark recess in the centre of a group of -elms, where unnumbered fire-flies were revelling in joy;—and now a -solitary duck shot out into the stream from its hidden home, behind a -fallen and decayed tree; now we watched the stars mirrored in the -sleeping waves, and now we listened to the hoot of the owl, the drum of -the partridge, the song of a distant waterfall, or the leap of a -robber-trout. It was not far from midnight when my companion whispered, -“Hush, hush!” and pointed to a dim spot some hundred yards below. The -first chance was allotted me, so I took the best aim I could, and fired. -I heard the ball skip along the water, and on coming near, found my mark -to be only a smooth rock. Two hours more passed on, one small moose was -killed, and at day-break we were in our cabin fast asleep. - -The principal outlet to Moosehead Lake is the Kennebeck, which “now -demands my song.” It is the second river in Maine, and one of the most -beautiful I have ever seen. Instead of watering a wilderness, as I had -supposed, all along its valley for over a hundred miles are fertile and -extensive farms, with here and there a thriving village, inhabited by an -intelligent and industrious people. Its principal tributary is Dead -River, and the spot at the junction of the two is called the Forks. The -cultivated region stops here, and between this point and Moosehead, the -distance is about twenty-five miles, which is yet a forest wilderness. - -The principal attraction at the Forks is a tavern kept by one Burnham, -who is a capital fellow to guide the lover of Nature or the trout -fisherman to Moxy Fall and Nameless Lake, which are in the immediate -vicinity. The mountains about here are very lofty, and exceedingly -picturesque, abounding in the maple, the oak, the pine, and hemlock. -Emptying into the Kennebeck, a few miles north of the Forks, is a superb -mountain-stream, named Moxy, after an Indian who was drowned there many -years ago. Winding for a long distance among rocky ravines, and -eternally singing to the woods a trumpet-song, it finally makes a sudden -plunge into a chasm more than a hundred feet in depth. The perpendicular -rocks on either side rise to an immense height, their tops crowned with -a “peculiar diadem of trees,” and their crevices filled up with -dark-green verdure, whence occasionally issues, hanging gracefully in -the air, beautiful festoons of the ivy, and clusters of the mountain -blue-bell. The depth of the pool was never told, and its waters wash -against the granite walls in a perpetual gloom. On one occasion I -visited it when there was a high freshet, and saw what I could hardly -have believed from a description. I stood on an elevated point in front -of the Fall, when my eyes rested upon an immense log, some sixty feet -long, coming down the foaming stream with all the fury of a maddened -steed; presently it reached the precipice,—then cleaved its airy pathway -into the hell of waters,—was completely out of sight for three minutes, -then, like a creature endowed with life, shot upward again entirely out -of the water, made another less desperate plunge, and quietly pursued -its course into the Kennebeck. - -In speaking of the Nameless Lake, it is necessary that I should be a -little egotistical. It is a fairy-like sheet of pure water in the heart -of the mountain wilderness, only about a mile in length, but full of -trout. The proprietor was of the party that accompanied me on my first -visit. While approaching it, the remark was made, that it was yet -without a name; when it was agreed that it should be christened after -that individual, who should on that day throw the most successful fly. -As fortune would have it, the honour was awarded to me; and on a -guide-board in the forest, three miles from Burnham’s, may be seen the -figure of a hand, and the words “Lake Lanman.” There stands my written -name, exposed “to the peltings of the pitiless storm;” and in a few -years, at the longest, it will be washed away, and the tree which -supports it mingling with the dust. Will it be even thus with the memory -of name? - -Not to attempt a description of the scenery of the Kennebeck, which -could be only faithfully given by the pictures of an artist, I will take -my reader down its beautiful valley, and tell him what I know respecting -its beautiful villages. - -The first in order is Bingham, situated on a fertile “interval,” -surrounded with picturesque hills, charming and quiet as a summer day, -and containing within the jurisdiction of its town an uncommonly fine -farm, belonging to a Mr. Parlin, who manufactures large quantities of -maple sugar. - -Solon is the next village in the Kennebeck valley, remarkable for -nothing but Caritunk Falls, which are twenty feet high, and run through -a gorge fifty feet wide. Here I saw some twenty men “driving” the logs -that had been lodged all along the river when it was low. It is a -laborious life which these men lead, but they receive good pay, and meet -with many interesting adventures. They generally have the soul to enjoy -fine scenery, and therefore demand the respect of the intelligent -traveller. - -Anson, though in the valley of the Kennebeck, is situated on Seven Mile -Brook, and is a flourishing business place. From its neighbouring hills -may be seen the sky-piercing peaks of Mount Blue, Saddleback, Bigelow, -and Mount Abraham, which are the guardian spirits of Maine. The town is -distinguished for its agricultural enterprise, and the abundance of its -wheat, having actually produced more than is reported from any other -town in the State. - -Norridgwock, so named by the Kennebeck Indians, because, when fighting -with their enemies at this place, they could find _no-ridge-to-walk_ -upon, which was a desirable object. It is a charming little village, and -associated with a celebrated Indian Chief named Bomazeen, and also with -a Jesuit Missionary, whose name I do not remember. Not far from here is -a picturesque fall, also a picturesque bend of the Kennebeck, where -empties Sandy River, upon which are many extensive farms. - -Skowhegan is a thriving village, where there are fine falls, which I -never could look upon without thinking of the famous Glen’s Falls in New -York, of which they are a complete counterpart, though on a smaller -scale. Many and very dear to me are my recollections of its “choice -bits” of scenery, of the fine singing I there heard, of the -acquaintances there formed, and of the pleasant literary communings -which were mine in company with one of the best and most intellectual of -women, who has for many years been my “guide, counsellor, and friend.” - -Waterville, the next town on the river, is the seat of a Baptist -College, and the head of navigation on account of the Ticonic Falls. It -is the centre of an extensive farming district, which fact, together -with the literary taste of its people, makes it an interesting place. - -Augusta, the capital of the State, is also on the Kennebeck, and with -its State House and other State buildings, its admirably conducted -hotels, its commanding churches, its large bridge, and pleasant -residences, is one of the most picturesque and interesting towns in the -whole of New England. - -Hallowell, two miles below Augusta, was once a great place of business, -and is still a very pleasant place, though unable to compete with its -rival the Capital. In my mind, it is chiefly associated with some fine -people, and particularly with three beautiful sisters, who are great -lovers of poetry and fine musicians. - -Gardiner, further down, is a tremendous place for saw-mills; and -lumbering I look upon as one of the surest kinds of business. It -contains the handsomest church-building in the State, and a number of -fine residences belonging to its wealthy citizens, of which that one -belonging to Mr. Gardiner (after whom the place was named), is the most -elegant. - -Bath is the next and most southern town on the Kennebeck; it is a large -place, where there is a great deal of shipping done, and now in a -flourishing condition. The sail down the river from here is a most -delightful one, for the eye revels on a continual succession of pleasant -farms, quiet headlands, solitary islands, and vessels of every kind -passing up and down the stream. Even to the present day, the Kennebeck -abounds in salmon, which are caught with nets from the first of May till -midsummer. To take them with the hook is indeed rare sport, and for the -manner in which I conquered a solitary individual I refer my reader to a -certain passage in “Scrope on Salmon Fishing.” Few are the rivers that I -love more than the Kennebeck, and very dear to me are its manifold -associations. - -I date this chapter from Portland, which is a thriving city of twenty -thousand inhabitants, and interesting to the admirers of genius, because -it is the native place of Mrs. Seba Smith, the poet Longfellow, and John -Neal. - - - - - CHAPTER XXV. - - -A Fishing Party on the Thames—Watch Hill—Night Adventures. - - Norwich. August. - -A few mornings ago, just as the sun had risen above the eastern hills, -which look down upon the Thames at Norwich, the prettiest sail-boat of -the place left her moorings, and with a pleasant northerly breeze -started for the Sound. Her passengers consisted of six gentlemen, all -equipped in their sporting jackets, and furnished with fishing tackle, -and their place of destination was Watch Hill, a point of land in Rhode -Island, extending into the Atlantic, a few miles from Stonington. We -were on a fishing frolic, as a matter of course, and a happier company, -I ween, were never yet afloat, for the sport of a morning breeze. What -with the story, the jest, the iced lemonade and exquisite cigar, the -minutes glided by as swiftly and unobserved as the tiny waves around us. -Now we met a solitary fisherman, towing for bass, and as we hailed him -with a friendly shout and passed on, he began to talk in an under tone, -and his voice did not die away until we had turned a point. What would I -not give for an accurate record of that old man’s life! Anon, we -witnessed the soothing picture of a well-conducted farm, with its -green-girt cottage, spacious barns, neat and flowing fields, with its -horses, oxen, cows, sheep, hogs, and poultry. Now we saw some noble men, -such as Vernet delighted to paint, hauling the seine, and, as the “fruit -of all their toil” were thrown upon the sand, their flipping forms -reflected back the sunlight, reminding us of—anything the reader may be -pleased to imagine. Now, we were overtaken and tossed about by a steamer -bound to New Haven; and then we sailed in company with a boat, a sloop, -and schooner; meeting others, beating up, from Boston, New York, and -Philadelphia. And the termination of this pleasing panorama was composed -of Gale’s Ferry, the commanding town, fort, and monument of Groton, -together with the city of New London, among whose anchored shipping -floated a saucy Revenue Cutter, and at whose docks were chained a goodly -number of storm-beaten whalers. - -Having taken in our stores, and obtained from the fish-market a basket -of bait, we again hoisted sail, bound first to Commit Rock, and binding -ourselves to capture all of the watery enemy which might tempt the power -or the dexterity of our arms. - -When about three miles from New London, all eyes were attracted by a -beautiful craft on our lee, laden with a party of ladies and gentlemen. -“They’re going toward a reef!” exclaimed our captain; and no sooner had -the words escaped his lips, than the stranger struck, and stove a hole -through her bottom. We were just in time to save the party from a watery -grave; and when we had landed them in safety on the beach, we were well -repaid for our trouble by the consciousness of having done a good act, -and by the thankful words and benignant smiles of the ladies fair. A -dozen minutes more and we were within an oar’s length of the fishing -rock. “All ashore that’s coming!” shouted our mate, as he held the boat -fast, standing on the rock, when we all leaped out, and plenty of line -having been given her, the boat swung to, and “like a cradled thing at -rest,” floated upon the waves. Then commenced the sport. The breeze was -refreshing, and the breath of the salt sea-foam buoyed up our spirits to -a higher pitch, and gave new vigour to our sinews. The youngest of the -party was the first who threw his hook, which was snapped in the -twinkling of an eye. Another trial, and a four-pound black-fish lay -extended upon the rock. Another, and another, and another, until -fourscore, even numbered, came following after. Tired of the sport, two -of the party entered the boat, and hoisted sail for a little cruize. -Half an hour had elapsed, when the steady breeze changed into a -frightful gale, capsizing within hailing distance, a small fishing -smack, with two old men in it. Hanging on, as they were, to the keel of -the boat, their situation was extremely dangerous, as there was not a -vessel within two miles. The poor men beckoned to us to help them; but -as our boat was gone, we could not do so, which of course we much -regretted. - -For one long, long hour did they thus hang, “midway betwixt life and -death,” exposed to the dangers of being washed away by the remorseless -surge, or swallowed up, as we were afterwards told, by a couple of -sharks, which were kept away only by the hand of Providence. This -incident tended to cool our ardour for fishing; and as we were satisfied -with that day’s luck, we put up our gear, during which time the boat -arrived, and we embarked for the Hill. - -We made one short turn, however, towards the boat which had picked up -the fishermen, as we were anxious to tell them why we did not come to -their relief. We then tacked about, and the last words we heard from our -companions were,—“Thank you—thank you—God bless you all,” and until we -had passed a league beyond Fisher’s Island, our little vessel “carried a -most beautiful bone between her teeth.” - -At sunset we moored our little craft on the eastern shore of Paucatuck -Bay. On ascending to the Watch Hill hotel, we found it to be a large, -well-furnished house, and our host to be a fat, jolly Falstaff-ish sort -of man, just suited to his station. At seven o’clock we sat down to a -black-fish supper, then smoked a cigar, and while my companions resorted -to the ten-pin alley, I buttoned up my pea-jacket, and sallied forth on -an exploring expedition. As I stood on the highest point of the -peninsula facing the south, I found that the light-house was situated -directly before me, on the extreme point, that a smooth beach faded away -on either side, the left-hand one being washed by the Atlantic, and that -on the right by the waters of Fisher Island Bay, and that the dreary -hills in my rear were dotted by an occasional dwelling. The breeze had -died away, and the bright, full moon was in the cloudless sky. Many -sails were in the offing, passing by and being passed by the Providence -and Stonington steam-boats bound to New York. The scenery around me, and -the loveliness of the sky, with its galaxy of stars above, caused me to -forget myself, and I wandered far away upon the shore—alone, in the -awful presence of the great Atlantic Ocean. No sounds fell upon my ear, -save the muffled roar of the ground swell, and the faint whispers of the -tiny waves as they melted upon the sand. I traced my name, and beside it -that of another, a being beauteous, for whose cabinet of curiosities I -gathered many a round, smooth pebble, and many a delicate sea-shell. I -wandered on, now gazing with wonder and admiration into the cerulean -vault of Heaven, or into the still deeper blue of the mighty sea; and -now singing with a loud voice one of the sacred songs of the sweet -singer of Israel. Now, a thousand images of surpassing loveliness darted -across my vision, as I thought of God—of an eternal life in heaven—and -of love, divine and human; and then there came a weight upon my spirit, -as I remembered the powers of darkness, the destiny of the condemned, -and the miseries engendered by our evil passions. One moment I deemed -myself immortal, released for ever from the contaminating influence of -sin, and then I thought of the valley of death, and trembled. In that -communion with the mysteries of the universe, strongly blended as they -were, I felt that I could wander on without fatigue, until the whole -earth should be trodden by my pilgrim feet. But the chilly air and the -fading night warned me to retrace my steps, and in an hour I had reached -my home. - -When the sun rose from his ocean-bed on the following morning, -surrounded by a magnificent array of clouds, I was up, and busily -engaged preparing for a day’s fishing,—first, and before breakfast, for -bluefish, afterwards for black-fish, and then for bass. While my -companions were asleep, I went out with an old fisherman, and by -breakfast time had captured thirty bluefish, weighing about two pounds -a-piece. The manner of catching these is to tow for them with a long -line, the bait being a piece of ivory attached to a strong hook. They -are a very active and powerful fish, and when hooked make a great fuss, -skipping and leaping out of the water. - -At nine o’clock our party were at anchor on a reef about one mile from -shore; and for the space of about two hours we hauled in the black-fish -as fast as possible, many of them weighing eight to ten pounds a-piece. -For them, you must have a small straight hook, and for bait, lobsters or -crabs. A broiled black-fish, when rightly cooked, is considered one of -the best of saltwater delicacies. - -But the rarest of all fishing is that of catching bass; and a first-rate -specimen I was permitted to enjoy. About eleven o’clock, I jumped into -the surf-boat of an old fisherman, requesting him to pull for the best -bass ground with which he was acquainted. In the mean time my friends -had obtained a large boat, and were going to follow us. The ground -having been reached, we let our boat float wherever the tide and wind -impelled it, and began to throw over fines, using for bait the skin of -an eel six inches long. Those in the neighbouring boat had fine luck, as -they thought, having caught some dozen five-pounders, and they seemed to -be perfectly transported because nearly an hour had passed and I had -caught nothing. In their glee they raised a tremendous shout, but before -it had fairly died away, my line was suddenly straightened, and I knew -that I had a prize. Now it cut the water like a streak of lightning, -although there were two hundred feet out, and as the fish returned I -still kept it taught; and after playing with him for about forty -minutes, I succeeded in drowning him, then hauled up gradually, and with -my boat-hook landed him in the boat safe and sound. The length of that -striped bass was four feet two inches, and his weight, before cleaned, -fifty-eight pounds. The reader can easily imagine the chop-fallen -appearance of my brother fishermen, when they found out that “the race -is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong.” At three -o’clock in the afternoon, a piece of that bass tended to satisfy the -appetite which had been excited by his capture. - -Satisfied with our piscatorial sports, we concluded to spend the rest of -the day quietly gathering shells upon the beach; but causes of -excitement were still around us. No sooner had we reached the water’s -edge, than we discovered a group of hardy men standing on a little -knoll, in earnest conversation, while some of them were pointing towards -the sea. “To the boat—to the boat,” suddenly shouted their leader, when -they all descended with the speed of Swiss mountaineers; and on reaching -a boat which had been made ready, they pushed her into the surf, when -three of them jumped in, and thus commenced the interesting scene of -hauling the seine. There was something new and romantic to us in the -thought, that the keen and intelligent eye of man could even penetrate -into the deep, so far as to designate the course of travel of the tribes -of the sea. And when the seine was drawn, it was a thrilling sight to -see those fishermen tugging at the lines, leaping into the surf, which -sometimes completely covered them, to secure the tens of thousands of -fish which they had caught. There was a grace and beauty about the whole -scene, which made me long for the genius of a Mount or a Bingham. - -A little before sunset, I was again strolling along the shore, when the -following incident occurred. The reader will please return with me to -the spot. Yonder on that fisherman’s stake, a little sparrow has just -alighted, facing the main. It has been lured away from the green bowers -of home by the music of the sea, and is now gazing, perhaps with -feelings kindred to my own, upon this most magnificent structure of the -Almighty hand. See! it spreads its wing, and is now darting towards the -water—fearless and free. Ah! it has gone too near! for the spray -moistens its plumes! There—there it goes, frightened back to its native -woodland. That little bird, so far as its power and importance are -concerned, seems to me a fit emblem of the mind of man, and this great -ocean an appropriate symbol of the mind of God. - -The achievements of the human mind “have their passing paragraphs of -praise, and are forgotten.” Man may point to the Pyramids of Egypt, -which are the admiration of the world, and exclaim, “Behold the symbols -of my power and importance!” But most impotent is the boast. Those -mighty mysteries stand in the solitude of the desert, and the glory of -their destiny is fulfilled, in casting a temporary shadow over the tent -of the wandering Arab. - -The achievements of the Almighty mind are beyond the comprehension of -man, and lasting as his own eternity. The spacious firmament, with its -suns, and moons, and stars; our globe, with its oceans, and mountains, -and rivers; the regularly revolving seasons; and the still, small voice -continually ascending from universal nature, all proclaim the power and -goodness of their Great Original. And everything which God has created, -from the nameless insect to the world of waters, and highway of nations, -was created for good, to accomplish some omnipotent end. As this ocean -is measureless and fathomless, so is it an emblem, beautiful but faint, -of that wonderful Being, whose throne is above the milky-way, and who is -himself from everlasting to everlasting. But see, there is a heavy cloud -rising in the west, the breeze is freshening, flocks of wild ducks are -flying inland, and the upper air is ringing with the shrill whistle of -the bold and wild sea-gull, whose home is the boundless sea; therefore, -as the poet Noble has somewhere written, “the shortest homeward track’s -the best.” - -Still in the present tense would I continue. The witching hour of -midnight has again returned. A cold rain-storm has just passed over, and -the moon is again the mistress of a cloudless sky, but the wind is still -raging in all its fury. - - “I view the ships that come and go, - Looking so like to living things. - O! ’tis a proud and gallant show - Of bright and broad-spread wings, - Making it light around them, as they keep - Their course right onward through the unsounded deep.” - _Dana._ - -God be with them and their brave and gallant crews. But again, - - “Where the far-off sand-bars lift - Their backs in long and narrow line, - The breakers shout, and leap, and shift, - And send the sparkling brine - Into the air; then rush to mimic strife; - Glad creatures of the sea, and full of life!” - _Ibid._ - -But I must stop quoting poetry, for as “a thing of beauty is a joy for -ever,” I should be for ever writing about the sea. Heavens! What a -terrible song is the ocean singing! with his long white hair streaming -in the wind. The waving, splashing, wailing, dashing, howling, rushing, -and moaning of the waves, is a glorious lullaby, and a fit prelude to a -dream of the sea. - -At an early hour on the following day we embarked for home; but a sorry -time did we have of it, for the winds were very lazy. We were ten hours -going the distance of twenty-two miles. It was now sunset, not a -solitary breath of air, and we were off Gale’s Ferry. Ashore we went, -resolved to await the coming of the Sag Harbor steam-boat, which usually -arrived about nine o’clock, and by which we were taken in tow. Snugly -seated in our boat, and going at the rate of eighteen miles, we were -congratulating ourselves upon an early arrival home. But, alas, at this -moment the painter broke, the steamer, unconscious of our fate, still -sped onward, while we sheered off towards the shore, almost disgusted -with human life in general—for our boat was large, and we had but one -oar. But what matter? We were a jolly set, and the way we gave three -cheers, as a prelude to the song of “Begone Dull Care,” must have been -startling to the thousand sleeping echoes of hill, forest, river, and -glen. - -Having crept along at snail’s pace about one mile, we concluded to land, -and, if possible, obtain a place to sleep, and something to eat; for not -having had a regular dinner, and not a mouthful of supper, we were half -starved. With clubs in our hands, to keep off hobgoblins and bull dogs, -we wended our way towards a neighbouring farm-house, where we knocked -for admittance. Pretty soon a great gawky-looking head stuck itself out -of an upper window, to which we made known our heartfelt desires, -receiving in return the following answer: “My wife is sick—hain’t got -any bread—you can go in the barn to sleep if you want to;” and we turned -reluctantly away, troubled with a feeling very nearly allied to anger. -“Come, let’s go off in this direction,” exclaimed one of the party, “and -I’ll introduce you to my old friend, Captain Somebody;”—and away we -posted, two by two, across a new-mown field. Presently our two leaders -were awe-stricken by the sudden appearance of something white, which -seemed to be rising out of the earth beside a cluster of bushes, and the -way they wheeled about and put for the river, (accompanied by their -fellows, whose fright was merely sympathetic,) was “a caution” to all -unbelievers in ghosts and other midnight spectres. - -At last we halted to gain a little breath, an explanation was made, and -our captain forthwith resolved to investigate the matter. He now took -the lead, and on coming to the mysterious spot, discovered an old blind -white horse, who had been awakened by a noise, and, following the -instinct of his nature, had risen from his lair, to be better prepared -for danger. I doubt whether the echoes are yet silent, which were caused -by the loud and long peals of laughter which resounded to the sky. Being -in a strange land, without chart or compass, we could not find the -mortal dwelling place of Captain Somebody, and so we changed our course -of travel. - -We stopped at another house, farther on, but to save our lives we could -not obtain an interview, although we entered the hen-coop, and set the -cocks and hens a cackling and crowing, the pig-pen, and set the hogs a -squealing, while a large dog and two puppies did their best to increase -and prolong the midnight chorus. If our farmer friend did not deem -himself transported to Bedlam, about that time, we imagine that nothing -on earth would have the power to give him such a dream. Our ill-luck -made us almost desperate, and so we returned to the boat, resolved to -row the whole distance home, could we but find an extra oar. - -It was now eleven o’clock, and the only things that seemed to smile upon -us were the ten thousand stars, studding the clear, blue firmament. -Anon, a twinkling light beamed upon our vision; and as we approached, we -found it to proceed from a little hut on an island, where a Thames -lamplighter and his boy were accustomed to pass the night after their -work was done. Having again landed, we received a hearty welcome, as the -host proved to be an old acquaintance of our captain and mate. “Have you -anything to eat?” was almost the first question of every tongue. “No, -nothing but this barrel of crackers and some cheese,” exclaimed the man -of light. “And we,” shouted one of our crew, “have plenty of fish;—can’t -we have a chowder?” “Ay, ay! a chowder, a chowder it shall be,” were the -words which rang aloud to the very heavens. A wherry was despatched to -the main-land, to the well-known habitation of an old fisherman, for the -necessary iron pot and bowls for the potatoes and onions, which were dug -for the occasion; for the pork, the pepper, and salt; all which, added -to our biscuit and black-fish, nicely cleaned and prepared, constituted -a chowder of the very first water. There was one addition to our -company, in the person of the old fisherman; and our appearance, as we -were seated in a circle on the floor, each with a bowl of thick hot soup -in his hands, constituted a picture rich and rare. After we had finished -it was acknowledged by all, that a better meal had never been enjoyed by -mortal man. In about thirty minutes from this time the odd one of the -company bade us “good night,” and the midnight brotherhood resigned -themselves to sleep. The last sounds I heard, before closing my eyes, -were caused by the regular opposition steam-boats from New York, as they -shot by the island almost as “swift as an arrow from a shivering bow.” - -The first faint streak of daylight found us on board our boat, homeward -bound, wafted on by a pleasant southerly breeze. At the usual hour, we -were all seated at our respective breakfast tables, relating our -adventures of the excursion just ended. - - - - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - -A week in a Fishing Smack—Fisherman—A beautiful morning at sea—A day at -Nantucket—Wreck of a ship—Night on the Sound. - - Norwich. August. - -On a pleasant Monday morning I started from Norwich, bound to New -London, and from thence to any other portion of the world where I might -have some sport in the way of salt-water fishing. In less than an hour -after landing from the steam-boat, I had boarded the handsome smack -Orleans, Captain Keeney, and by dint of much persuasion, secured a berth -on board, to accompany him on a fishing voyage. In addition to my -previous preparations, I had only to purchase a Guernsey shirt and -tarpaulin; and by the time I was regularly equipped, the sails were -hoisted, and we were on our course for Nantucket. An intimate -acquaintance was soon formed between myself and crew, which consisted of -the master, two sailors, and the cook. The whole time that I spent in -their company was six days, as I reached home on the following Saturday -evening. The incidents that I met with were somewhat new, as a matter of -course, and I employed a few moments of every evening during my absence, -in briefly recording the events of the past day; and that medley I now -put together as a literary chowder. - -_Monday Evening._—My observations to-day have been limited to our little -vessel, in consequence of a dense fog, which drenched us to the skin, -and seems likely to continue. I have obtained some information, however, -concerning the character of an interesting class of men. Smack-fishermen -are a brave, hardy, honest, and simple-hearted race, and as my captain -tells me, spend nine-tenths of their time “rocked in the cradle of the -deep.” Their vessels, or smacks, are generally of about forty tons -burthen; the number of those which supply New York and Boston with fish -is said to be near a thousand, and they are all at home anywhere on the -coast between the Kennebeck and the Delaware. Of the perils which these -fishermen endure, and the privations they suffer, how little is known or -thought by the great world at large! Yet I believe there is as much true -happiness in their lives, as in those of any other class. Their fathers -were fishermen before them, and as they themselves have mostly been born -within hearing of the surf, they look upon the unsounded deep as their -fitting home—their only home, and would not part with it for a palace or -a crown. Four is the usual number of a smack’s crew, and the master is -invariably called a skipper. Most of them are worthy husbands and -fathers, whose families are snugly harboured in some convenient -sea-port, with enough and to spare of the good things of life. They are -a jovial set of men, hailing each other upon the ocean as friends, and -meeting upon land as brothers. Each skipper thinks his craft the -handsomest and swiftest that floats, and very exciting are the races -they sometimes run. Their affection for their own vessel is like that of -the Arab for his steed, and like the Arab, too, they have been known to -weep over the grave of their darling and their pride. - -The kinds of fish which they mostly bring to market are shad, salmon, -lobsters, mackerel, cod, bluefish, haddock, black-fish, pangies, bass, -and halibut. The first three are generally purchased of local fishermen, -but all the rest are caught by themselves. The haunts of the black-fish -are rocky reefs, those of the bass and bluefish, in the vicinity of -sandy shoals or tide rips, and those of the remainder in about fifteen -fathom water. These are the varieties they capture by way of business; -but when in a frolicsome mood, they frequently attack a sword-fish, a -shark, or black whale; and soul-thrilling indeed, and laughable withal, -are the yarns they spin concerning these exploits. - -As to their mode of living, while at sea, it is just what it should be, -and what they would have it, although it would be positively shocking to -a Bond Street gentleman. But they always possess a good appetite, which -is what money cannot purchase, and without which the greatest delicacy -in the world would be insipid or loathsome. Fish, sea-biscuit, -corned-beef, and pork, potatoes, onions, and pancakes, constitute their -provisions, and what besides these would a reasonable man desire? It is -with a mixture of some of these, that a _chowder_ is concocted, and -where can anything more delicious be found? And with these ingredients, -moreover, they manage very well to keep body and soul together, unless a -storm on a rock-bound coast happens to make a sudden separation. - -I have just been on deck, and must say that I resume my pen with a -heavier heart. The fog has not dispersed in the least, a regular gale of -wind is blowing from the north, and the waves, seemingly in a revengeful -mood, are tossing our bark about, as if the skipper, like the Ancient -Mariner, had shot another albatros. But, like a fearless man as he is, -he stands at the helm, watching the sails with a steady eye, and the men -with their storm-jackets on are standing by, muttering something about -the coming darkness, and a reef somewhere on our lee. Never before have -I so distinctly understood the force of the Psalmist’s simile, when he -compares a wave to a drunken man reeling to and fro. Both have it in -their power to cause a mighty mischief, and both become exhausted and -perish—one upon a sandy beach, and the other sweeping over the peninsula -of time, finds a grave on the shore of oblivion. Heavens! how the wind -whistles, and the waters roar! Ay, but a still small voice salutes my -ear, and I lay me down to sleep, with a prayer upon my lips, and a -feeling of security at my heart, as I place implicit confidence in Him -who holdeth the ocean in the hollow of his hand. - -_Tuesday Evening._—I was awakened out of a deep sleep this morning by -the following salutation from the skipper, as he patted me on the -shoulder, - -“It’s a beautiful morning, and you ought to be up—the fog is gone, and -the wind is down; won’t you come up and take the helm awhile—so that the -boys and I may obtain a little sleep before reaching the fishing-ground, -which will be about, ten o’clock?” - -I was delighted to accept the invitation, and in a very short time the -sailors were asleep, and I in my new station, proud as a king, and happy -as a sinless boy. And, oh! that I could describe the scene that -fascinated my eyes as I lay there upon the deck, with one arm reposing -on the rudder, and my other hand grasping a Claude glass! I felt as I -once felt before, when standing on the famous precipice of Niagara, that -then, more than ever, I desired God to be my friend. I also felt, that -if the world did not demand the feeble services of my life, I should -wish to remain upon the ocean for ever, provided I could have “one fair -being for my minister.” More earnestly than ever did I long for a -complete mastery of my art. The fact of being out of sight of land, -where the blue element announced that the ocean was soundless, filled my -soul with that “lone, lost feeling,” which is supposed to be the -eagle’s, when journeying to the zenith of the sky. The sun had just -risen above the waves, and the whole eastern portion of the heavens was -flooded with the most exquisite colouring I ever beheld—from the deepest -crimson to the faintest and most delicate purple, from the darkest -yellow to an almost invisible green; and all blended, too, in forms of -marvellous loveliness. A reflection of this scene was also visible in -the remaining quarters of the horizon. Around me the illimitable deep, -whose bosom is studded with many a gallant and glittering ship, - - that have the plain - Of ocean for their own domain. - -The waves are lulling themselves to rest, and a balmy breeze is -wandering by, as if seeking its old grandfather, who kicked up the grand -“rumpus” last night; whereby I learn, that the offspring of a “rough and -stormy sire,” are sometimes very beautiful and affectionate to the -children of men. But look, even the dwellers in the sea and of the sea -are participating in the hilarity of this bright morning! Here, a school -of herrings are skipping along like a frolicsome party of vagabonds as -they are—and yonder a shark has leaped out of the water, to display the -symmetry of his form, and the largeness of his jaw, and looking as if he -thought “that land-lubber would make me a first-rate breakfast;” there, -a lot of porpoises are playing “leap-frog,” or some other outlandish -game; and, a little beyond them, a gentleman sword-fish is swaggering -along to parts unknown, to fight a duel in cold blood with some equally -cold-blooded native of the Atlantic; and now, a flock of gulls are -cleaving their course to the south, to the floating body, perhaps, of a -drowned mariner, which their sagacity has discovered a league or two -away—and now, again, I notice a flock of petrels, hastening onward to -where the winds blow, and the waves are white. Such are the pictures I -beheld in my brief period of command. It may have been but fancy, but I -thought my little vessel was trying to eclipse her former beauty, and -her former speed. One thing I know, that she “walked the water like a -thing of life.” - -I fancied, too, that I was the identical last man whom Campbell saw in -his vision, and that I was then bound to the haven of eternal rest. But -my shipmates returning from the land of Nod, and a certain clamour -within my own body having caught my ear, I became convinced that to -break my fast would make me happier than anything else just at that -time, and I was soon as contented as an alderman at five P.M. About two -hours after this, we reached our fishing-place, which was twenty miles -east of Nantucket. We then lowered the jib and topsail, and having -luffed, and fastened the main-sheet, so that the smack could easily -float, we hauled out our lines, and commenced fishing, baiting our hooks -with clams, of which we had some ten bushels on board. Cod fishing (for -we were on a codding cruise) is rather dull sport; it is, in fact, what -I would call hard labour. In six hours we had caught all the skipper -wanted, or that the well would hold, so we made sail again, bound to New -York; and at supper-time the deck of our smack was as clean and dry, as -if it had never been pressed save by the feet of ladies. At sunset, -however, a fierce southerly wind sprang up, so that we were compelled to -make a harbour; and just as I am closing this record, we are anchoring -at Nantucket, with a score of storm-beaten whales on our starboard bow. - -_Wednesday Evening._ The weather to-day has been threatening, and the -skipper thought it best to remain at our moorings; but with me the day -has not been devoid of interest; for, in my sailor garb, I have been -strolling about the town, studying the solemn drama of life, while -playfully acting a subordinate part myself. This morning, as it -happened, I went into the public cemetery, and spent an hour conning -over the rude inscriptions to the memory of the departed. In that city -of the dead, I saw a number of the living walking to and fro, but there -was one who attracted my particular attention. He was a seaman of noble -presence, seated upon an unmarked mound, with his feet resting upon a -smaller one beside it, his head reclined upon one hand, while the other -was occasionally passed across his face, as if wiping away a tear. I -hailed him with a few kind questions, and my answer was the following -brief tale. - -“Yes, sir, four years ago, I shipped aboard that whaler yonder, leaving -behind me, in a sweet little cottage of my own, a mother, a wife, and an -only boy. They were all in the enjoyment of good health, and happy; and, -when we were under sail, and I saw from the mast-head how kindly they -waved their handkerchiefs beside my door, I too was happy, even in my -hour of grief. Since that time I have circumnavigated the globe, and -every rare curiosity I could obtain was intended for my darling ones at -home. Last Saturday our ship returned. I asked no questions of the pilot -for he was a stranger, but I landed, flew to my dwelling, and found it -locked. The flagging in my yard attracted my notice, and I thought it -strange that the rank grass had been suffered to grow over it so -thickly. The old minister passed by my gate, and running to him with -extended hand, I inquired for my family. ‘Oh Mr. B.,’ said he, ‘you must -bless the Lord,—he gave them to you, and he hath taken them away.’ And -as the thought stole into my brain, my suffering, sir, was intense, and -I longed to die. And there they are, my wife and darling child, and, a -step or two beyond, my dear old mother. Peace to their memories.” - -Such was the simple story, and I have pondered much upon the world of -woe which must be hidden in the breast of that old mariner. - -After dinner, to-day, I got into company with some fishermen who were -going after bass and bluefish, and in a short time I had captured, with -my own hands, two big bass and some dozen bluefish,—which I packed in -ice as a present to some New York friends. - -At my present time of writing, which is near ten o’clock at night, we -are weighing anchor, and the skipper tells me we shall be in New York by -to-morrow’s sunset. An hour before coming on board this evening, I -lounged into a sailor boarding-house, and mingled as freely with a -company of whalemen there, as if I had been a _bonâ fide_ member of the -craft. I heard a great deal that interested me, and was sorry that I -could not remain longer. There were some in that company lately arrived -from every portion of the world, and yet they were engaged in the same -business, and had journeyed on the same mighty highway of nations. One -was descanting upon the coral islands of the Torrid zone, another upon -the ice-mountains of the Arctic Sea, a third was describing the coast of -California, and another the waters that lave the Eastern shore of Asia. -The more I listened to these men, the more did the immensity of ocean -expand before my mind, and in the same proportion was I led to wonder at -the wisdom of the Creator. - -I have just been on deck, and find that we are on the way to our desired -haven, wafted by a steady and pleasant breeze. Our course is between -Martha’s Vineyard and Rhode Island, a route studded with islands and -seaports, that now appear in the cool starlight like the pictures of -fairy land. - -_Thursday Evening._ Instead of coming through the Sound last night, we -headed our vessel outside of Long Island, and after a delightful sail -have realized our skipper’s promise, for we are now floating beside the -market in New York. The reason assigned for taking the outside course -was, that the fish would keep better, on account of the greater coldness -of the water. Nothing of peculiar interest has happened to us to-day, -except the meeting with a wreck off Sandy Hook. It was the hull of a -large ship, whose name we could not discern. It had a very old -appearance, and from the moss and sea-weed that covered it, we supposed -it must have been afloat for many months, the plaything of the waves. -“Man marks the earth with ruin,” but who is it that scatters such -splendid ruins upon the ocean? And a thousand remorseless surges echo -back the answer: “To us, belong the glory of those deeds.” If that wreck -had language, what a strange, eventful history would it reveal! Its -themes would be,—home and all its treasures lost; the sea, and all its -dangers; the soul, and all its agonies; the heart, and all its -sufferings. But when we multiply all this as fast as time is multiplying -it, we cannot but realize the idea, that human life is but a -probationary state, and that sorrow and sighing are our earthly -inheritance. - -_Friday Evening._ After portioning out my fish this morning, and sending -them to my friends, I put on my usual dress, and having obtained a six -hours’ furlough, set off towards Broadway, where, between the reading -rooms and the studios of a few artists, I managed to spend my time very -pleasantly. At noon, we embarked for New London and had a delightful -time, passing through the East River and that pleasing panorama from the -city to the Sound, never before appeared more beautiful. - -It is now late, and I have been on deck all the evening alone. In a -thoughtful mood I fixed my eyes upon the stars, and my spirits were -saddened by the continual murmur of the sea. Of what avail, thought I, -is all this excitement? Why was I created, and what is my destiny? Is it -to sail for a few brief years longer upon the ocean of life, and, when -the death-tempest overtakes me, to pass away unloved and unremembered by -a single human heart? If not an honoured name, can I not leave behind me -an humble memory, that will be cherished by a few, to whom I have laid -bare my innermost soul, when I was younger than I am, and a hundred-fold -more happy? What! O night! what is my destiny? - -_Saturday Evening._ We anchored off New London to-day, in time for me to -take the evening steamer for Norwich. When I parted with my “shipmates,” -I shook each one affectionately by the hand, and thought that I might -travel many years without finding a brotherhood of nobler men. I reached -home as the eight o’clock bells were ringing, and was reminded that -another week of precious time was gone. That the past must be remembered -as an unprofitable week, I cannot believe, for I feel that my soul has -been enlarged, and my heart humbled by listening to the teachings of the -mighty deep. - - - - - Footnotes - - -[1]The word Schroon is bad English for the Indian word _Scaroon_, the - meaning of which is—“_Child of the Mountains_.” It was originally - named by an Algonquin Chief, after a favourite daughter. - - - THE END. - - - LONDON: - Printed by Schulze & Co., Poland Street - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - ---Obvious typographical errors were corrected. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN CANADA, -NOVA SCOTIA AND THE UNITED STATES*** - - -******* This file should be named 53939-0.txt or 53939-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/9/3/53939 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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} - -h2.gen { text-align:left; } -h3.sp { text-align:left; font-weight:normal; margin-top:1em; font-size:100%; } -p.sp { margin-left:2em; clear:both; } - -dl.gloss dt { display:block; } -dl.gloss dd { margin-left:6em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; } - - h1.pg { margin-top:0em; - font-size:190%; } - h3.pg { margin-top:2em; - font-family: Times-Roman,serif; - font-size:110%; } - h4.pg { font-size:100%; - text-align: center; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: bold; } - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } -</style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Adventures of an Angler in Canada, Nova -Scotia and the United States, by Charles Lanman</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Adventures of an Angler in Canada, Nova Scotia and the United States</p> -<p>Author: Charles Lanman</p> -<p>Release Date: January 10, 2017 [eBook #53939]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN CANADA, NOVA SCOTIA AND THE UNITED STATES***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4 class="pg">This e-book was generously made available by FadedPage.com<br /> - (http://www.fadedpage.com)</h4> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Adventures of an Angler in Canada." width="584" height="784" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width="481" height="614" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="large">CHARLES LANMAN.</span> -<br />AUTHOR OF ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN AMERICA</p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1><span class="small">ADVENTURES</span> -<br /><span class="smallest">OF</span> -<br />AN ANGLER IN CANADA, -<br /><span class="small">NOVA SCOTIA</span> -<br /><span class="smaller">AND THE UNITED STATES.</span></h1> -<p class="tbcenter">BY CHARLES LANMAN.</p> -<p class="tbcenter">LONDON: -<br /><span class="small">RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. -<br /><span class="small"><b><i>Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</i></b></span> -<br />1848.</span></p> -</div> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="smallest">LONDON:</span> -<br /><span class="smaller">Printed by Schulze & Co., 13, Poland Street.</span></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_v">v</div> -<h2 class="eee"><span class="smaller">TO</span> -<br /><span class="small">SOLOMON T. NICOLL, ESQ.</span></h2> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">My dear Sir,</p> -</div> -<p>To you, in testimony of my friendship, I inscribe -this little Volume.</p> -<p>On a pleasant morning in May last, I awoke -from a piscatorial dream, haunted by the idea, that -I must spend a portion of the approaching summer -in the indulgence of my passion for angling. -Relinquishing my editorial labours for a time, I -performed a pilgrimage, which has resulted in the -production of this Volume. I hope it may entertain -those of my friends and the public, who have -heretofore received my literary efforts with favour. -<span class="pb" id="Page_vi">vi</span> -The work will be found to contain a record of -Adventures in the Valleys of the Hudson, St. -Lawrence and St. John, and along some of the -rivers of New England. -<span class="center">Truly your friend,</span> -<span class="lr"><span class="sc">Charles Lanman</span>.</span></p> -<blockquote> -<p class="book"><span class="smaller">NEW-YORK, 1847.</span></p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_vii">vii</div> -<h2 class="eee">ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> -<dl class="tocl"> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig1">CATSKILL MOUNTAINS</a> <i>Page</i> 2</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig2">LAKE HORICON</a> 53</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig3">RUINS OF FORT TICONDEROGA</a> 117</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig4">FRANCONIA NOTCH</a> 138</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig5">FALLS OF MONTMORENCY</a> 162</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig6">CAPE TRINITY ON THE SAGUENAY</a> 180</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig7">FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN</a> 242</dt> -<dt class="ill"><a href="#fig8">ROBERT EGGER’S FARM ON THE AROOSTOOK</a> 250</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_ix">ix</div> -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER I.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c1">The Catskill Mountains—South Peak Mountain—A thunder storm—Midnight on the Mountains—Sunrise—Plauterkill Clove—Peter Hummel—Trout fishing—Stony Clove—The Kauterskill Fall—The Mountain House—The Mountain Lake</a> PAGE 1</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER II.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c2">A Spring Day—The Sky—The Mountains—The Streams—The Woods—The Open Fields—Domestic Animals—Poetry—The Poultry-yard</a> 29</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER III.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c3">A corn-planting Bee</a> 43</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER IV.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c4">Lake Horicon—Sketches of its scenery—Information for anglers—Sabbath-day Point—War memories—The Turret City—Death of a deer—Roger’s Slide—Diamond Island—The snake-charmer—Snake stories—Night on the Horicon</a> 50</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER V.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c5">The Scaroon Country—Scaroon Lake—Pike Fishing by Torch-light—Trout Fishing—Lyndsey’s Tavern—Paradox Lake</a> 69</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER VI.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c6">The Adirondac Mountains—Trout Fishing in the Boreas River—A night in the woods—Moose Lake—Lake Delia—Mount Tahawas—Lakes Sanford and Henderson—The McIntyre Iron Works</a> 80</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER VII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c7">John Cheney, the Adirondac hunter, and some of his exploits</a> 100</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER VIII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c8">Burlington—Lake Champlain—Distinguished Men</a> 115</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER IX.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c9">Stage-coach—The Winooski—The Green Mountains—The ruined Dwelling—The White Mountains—The Flume—A deep Pool—The Old Man of the Mountain—The Basin—Franconia Notch—View of the Mountains—Mount Washington—The Notch Valley</a> 130</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER X.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c10">Montreal</a> 148</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XI.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c11">Quebec</a> 155</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c12">A sail down the St. Lawrence—Sword-Fish—Chasing a Whale</a> 164</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XIII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c13">The Saguenay River—Chicoutimi—Storm Picture—Hudson’s Bay Company—Eminent Merchant—The Mountaineer Indians—Tadousac—Ruin of a Jesuit Establishment</a> 173</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XIV.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c14">The Salmon—Salmon Adventures</a> 187</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XV.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c15">Seal-hunting on the St. Lawrence—The white Porpoise</a> 204</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XVI.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c16">The Esquimaux Indians of Labrador</a> 212</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XVII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c17">The Habitans of Canada</a> 218</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XVIII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c18">The Grand Portage into New Brunswick—Lake Timiscouta—The Madawaska River</a> 225</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XIX.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c19">The Acadians</a> 232</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XX.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c20">Sail down the Madawaska—The Falls of the St. John</a> 238</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXI.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c21">The Hermit of Aroostook</a> 244</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c22">The River St. John</a> 266</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXIII.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c23">The Penobscot River</a> 272</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXIV.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c24">Moosehead Lake—The River Kennebeck</a> 278</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXV.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c25">A Fishing Party on the Thames—Watch Hill—Night Adventures</a> 291</dt> -<dt class="center small">CHAPTER XXVI.</dt> -<dt><a href="#c26">A week in a Fishing Smack—Fisherman—A beautiful morning at sea—A day at Nantucket—Wreck of a ship—Night on the Sound</a> 308</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<h1 title="">ADVENTURES -<br /><span class="smaller">OF AN</span> -<br />ANGLER.</h1> -<h2 id="c1">CHAPTER I.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Catskill Mountains—South Peak Mountain—A thunder -storm—Midnight on the Mountains—Sunrise—Plauterkill -Clove—Peter Hummel—Trout fishing—Stony Clove—The -Kauterskill Fall—The Mountain House—The Mountain Lake.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Plauterkill Clove. May.</span></p> -<p>I commence this chapter in the language of -Leather-Stocking: “You know the Catskills, lad, -for you must have seen them on your left, as you -followed the river up from York, looking as blue as -a piece of clear sky, and holding the clouds on their -tops, as the smoke curls over the head of an -Indian chief at a council-fire.” Yes, every body is -acquainted with the names of these mountains, but -few with their peculiarities of scenery. They are -<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span> -situated about eight miles from the Hudson, rise to -an average elevation of thirty-five hundred feet, and -running in a straight line from north to south, -cover a space of some twenty-five miles. The fertile -valley on the east is as beautiful as heart could -desire; it is watered by the Kauterskill, Plauterkill -and Esopus Creeks, inhabited by a sturdy Dutch -yeomanry, and is the agricultural mother of -Catskill, Saugerties and Kingston. The upland -on the west, for about forty miles, is rugged, dreary, -and thinly settled; but the winding valley of -Schoharie beyond, is possessed of many charms -peculiarly American. The mountains themselves -are covered with dense forests, abounding in cliffs -and waterfalls, and for the most part untrodden by -the footsteps of men. Looking at them from the -Hudson, the eye is attracted by two deep hollows, -which are called “Cloves.”</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p021.jpg" alt="" width="421" height="314" /> -<p class="caption">CATSKILL MOUNTAINS.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<p>The one nearest to the Mountain House, Kauterskill -Clove, is distinguished for a remarkable fall, -which has been made familiar to the world by the -pen of Bryant and the pencil of Cole; but this Clove -is rapidly filling up with human habitations; while -the other, Plauterkill Clove, though yet possessing -much of its original glory, is certain of the same -destiny. The gorge whence issues the Esopus, is -among the Shaudaken mountains, and not visible -from the Hudson.</p> -<p>My nominal residence, at the present time, is at -the mouth of Plauterkill Clove. To the west, and -only half a mile from my abode, are the beautiful -mountains, whose outlines fade away to the north, -like the waves of the sea when covered with a -<i>visible</i> atmosphere. The nearest, and to me the -most beloved of these, is called South Peak. It is -nearly four thousand feet high, and covered from -base to summit with one vast forest of trees, varying -from eighty to a hundred feet in height. Like its -brethren, it is a wild and uncultivated wilderness, -abounding in all the interesting features of mountain -scenery. Like a corner stone does it stand at -<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span> -the junction of the northern and western ranges of -the Catskills, and as its huge form looms against -the evening sky, it inspires one with awe, as if it -were the ruler of the world: and yet, I have learned -to love it as a friend. I have pondered upon its -impressive features, when reposing in the noon-tide -sunshine, when enveloped in clouds, when holding -communion with the most holy night, and when -trembling under the influence of a thunder-storm, -and encircled by a rainbow. It has filled my soul -with images of beauty and sublimity, and made me -feel the omnipotence of God.</p> -<p>A day and night was it lately my privilege to -spend upon this mountain, accompanied by a poet-friend. -We started at an early hour, equipped in -our brown fustians, and laden with well-filled -knapsacks, one with a hatchet in his belt, and the -other with a brace of pistols. We were bound to -the extreme summit of the peak, where we intended -to spend the night, witness the rising of the sun, -and return at our leisure on the following day. But -when I tell you, that our course lay right up -the almost perpendicular side of the mountain, -where was no path save that formed by a torrent -or a bear, you will readily believe it was somewhat -rare and romantic. But this was what we delighted -in; so we shouted “Excelsior,” and commenced the -<span class="pb" id="Page_5">5</span> -ascent. The air was excessively sultry, and the -very first effort we made, caused the perspiration to -start most profusely. Upward, upward was our -course; now climbing through a tangled thicket, -or under the spray of a cascade, and then again -supporting ourselves by the roots of saplings or -scrambling under a fallen tree; now, like the -samphire gatherer, scaling a precipice; and then -again clambering over a rock, or “shinning” up a -hemlock tree, to reach a desired point.</p> -<p>Our first halt was made at a singular spot called -Hunter’s Hole, which is a spacious cavern or pit, -forty feet deep and twenty wide, and approached -only by a fissure in the mountain, sufficiently large -to admit a man. Connected with this place, is the -following story.</p> -<p>Many years ago, a farmer, residing at the foot of -the mountain, having missed a favourite dog, and -being anxious for his safety, called together his -neighbours and offered a reward for the safe return -of his canine friend. Always ready to do a kind -deed, a number of them started in different directions -for the hunt. A barking sound having -been heard to issue from this cavern, it discovered -that the lost dog was at the bottom, where he had -most probably fallen while chasing a fox. “But -how shall he be extricated from this hole?” was the -<span class="pb" id="Page_6">6</span> -general enquiry of the now-assembled hunters. Not -one of all the group would venture to descend -under any circumstances; so that the poor animal -remained a prisoner for another night. But the -next morning he was released, and by none other -than a brave boy, the son of the farmer, and playmate -of the dog. A large number of men were -present on the occasion. A strong rope was tied -around the body of the child, and he was gently -lowered down. On reaching the bottom, and -finding by the aid of his lamp, that he was in a -“real nice place,” the little rogue concluded to -have some sport; whereupon he proceeded to pull -down more rope, until he had made a coil of two -hundred feet, which was bewildering enough to the -crowd above; but nothing happened to him during -the adventure, and the dog was rescued. The -young hero having played his trick so well, it was -generally supposed, for a long time after, that this -cavern was two hundred feet deep, and none were -ever found sufficiently bold to enter in, even after a -fox. The bravery of the boy, however, was eventually -the cause of his death, for he was cut down -by a leaden ball in the war of 1812.</p> -<p>The next remarkable place that we attained in -ascending South Peak, was the Bear Bank, where, -in the depth of winter may be found an abundance -<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span> -of these charming creatures. It is said, that they -have often been seen sunning themselves, even from -the hills east of the Hudson. We were now under -a beetling precipice, three hundred feet high, and -there, under the shadow of a huge pine, we enjoyed -a slice of bread and pork, with a few drops of the -genuine mountain dew.</p> -<p>Instead of a dessert of strawberries and cream, -however, we were furnished, by venerable dame -Nature, with a thunder-storm. It was one that we -had noticed making a great commotion in the valley -below. It had probably discovered two bipeds -going towards its home, the sky, and seemed to -have pursued us with a view of frightening us back -again. But “knowing that nature never did betray -the heart that loved her,” we awaited the thunderstorm’s -reply to our obstinate refusal to descend. -The cloud was yet below us, but its unseen herald, -a strong east wind, told us that the conflict had -commenced. Presently a peal of thunder resounded -through the vast profound, which caused the mountain -to tremble to its deep foundation. And then -followed another, and another, as the storm -increased, and the rain and hail poured down in -floods.</p> -<p>Thinking it safer to expose ourselves to the storm -than remain under the pine, we retreated without -delay, when we were suddenly enveloped in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -heart of the cloud, only a few rods distant; then, -a stroke of lightning blinded us, and the towering -forest monarch was smitten to the earth. We were -in the midst of an unwritten epic poem about that -time, but we could not appreciate its beauties, for -another peal of thunder, and another stroke of -lightning attracted our whole attention. Soon as -these had passed, a terrible gale followed in their -wake, tumbling down piles of loose rocks, and -bending to the dust, as if in passion, the resisting -forms of an army of trees; and afterwards a glorious -rainbow spanned the mountain, appearing like -those distinguishing circles around the temples of -the mighty and holy, as portrayed by the painters -of old. The commotion lasted for one hour, when -the region of the Bear Bank became as serene as -the slumber of a babe. A spirit of silent prayer -was brooding upon the earth and in the air; and -with a shadow of thoughtfulness at our hearts, we -resumed our upward march.</p> -<p>Our next halting place was upon a sort of -peninsula, called the Eagle’s Nest, where, it is said, -an Indian child was formerly carried by one of those -birds, and cruelly destroyed, and whence the frantic -mother, with the mangled body of her babe, leaped -into the terrible abyss below. From this point, we -discovered a host of clouds assembled in council -above High Peak, as if discussing the parched -<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span> -condition of the earth, and the speediest mode of -affording relief to a still greater extent than they -had done; and far away to the west, was another -assembly of clouds, vieing like sportive children, to -outrun and overleap each other in their aerial -amphitheatre.</p> -<p>After this, we surmounted another point called -Rattlesnake Ledge. Here the rocks were literally -covered with the white bones of those reptiles, -slaughtered by the hunter in by-gone years, and -we happened to see a pair of them that were alive. -One was about four feet long, and the other, which -was only about half as large, seemed to be the -offspring of the old one, for, when discovered, they -were playing together like an affectionate mother -with her tender child. Soon as we appeared in -their presence, the serpents immediately ceased their -sports, and in the twinkling of an eye they coiled -themselves in the attitude of battle. The conflict -was of short duration, and to know the result you -need only look into my cabinet of curiosities.</p> -<p>Higher yet was it our lot to climb. We went -a little out of our course to obtain a bird’s-eye view -of a mountain lake. In its tranquil bosom the -glowing evening sky and mountain sides were -vividly reflected, and the silence surrounding it -was so profound, that we could almost hear the -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -ripples made by a solitary duck, as it swam from -one shore to the other in its utter loneliness. -Very beautiful, indeed, was this picture; and as -I reflected upon it, I thought that, as the Infant -of Bethlehem was tenderly protected by the parents -who watched over its slumbers, so was this exquisite -lake cradled and protected in the lap of the -mountains.</p> -<p>One sight more did we behold before reaching -the summit of South Peak. It was the sunset -hour, and on a jutting cliff, which commanded -an immense view, our eyes were delighted by the -sight of a deer, standing still, and looking down -upon the silent void below, which was then covered -with a deep purple atmosphere, causing the prospect -to resemble the boundless ocean. It was the last of -its race, we could not but fancy, bidding the human -world good night, previous to seeking its heathery -couch in a nameless ravine.</p> -<p>One effort more, and the long-desired eminence -was attained; and we were a little nearer the -evening star than we had ever been before. It -was now the hour of twilight, and as we were about -done over with fatigue, it was not long before we -had pitched our leafy tent, eaten some supper, -and yielded ourselves to the embrace of sleep,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Dear mother of fresh thoughts and joyous health.”</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<p>At midnight, a cooling breath of air having -passed across my face, I was awakened from a -fearful dream, which left me in a nervous and -excited state of mind. A strange and solemn gloom -had taken possession of my spirit, which was greatly -enhanced by the doleful song of a neighbouring -hemlock grove. Our encampment having been -made a little below the summit of the Peak, and -feeling anxious to behold the prospect at that hour -from that point, I awakened my companion, and -we seated ourselves upon the topmost rock, which -was nearly bare of shrubs, but covered with a rich -moss, softer and more beautiful than the finest -carpet.</p> -<p>But how can I describe the scene that burst upon -our enraptured vision. It was unlike anything I -had ever seen before, creating a lone, lost feeling, -which I supposed could only be realized by a -wanderer in an uninhabited wilderness, or on the -ocean, a thousand leagues from home. Above, -around, and beneath us—ay, far beneath us—were -the cold, bright stars, and to the eastward, the -“young moon with the old moon in her arms.” -In the west were floating a little band of pearly -clouds, which I almost fancied to be winged -chariots, and that they were crowded with children, -the absent and loved of other years, who, in a frolic -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -of blissful joy, were out upon the fields of heaven. -On one side of us reposed the long, broad valley of -the Hudson, with its cities, towns, villages, woods, -hills, and plains, whose crowded highway was -diminished to a narrow girdle of deep blue. Towards -the south, hill beyond hill, field beyond field, -receded to the sky, occasionally enlivened by a -peaceful lake. On our right, a multitudinous array -of rugged mountains lay piled up, apparently as -impassable as the bottomless gulf. To the north, -Old High Peak, king of the Catskills, bared his -bosom to the moonlight, as if demanding and -expecting the homage of the world. Strange and -magnificent, indeed, was the prospect from that -mountain watch-tower; and it was with reluctance -that we turned away, as in duty bound, to slumber -until the dawn.</p> -<p>The dawn! And now for a sunrise picture -among the mountains, with all the illusive performances -of the mists and clouds. He comes! -he comes! the “king of the bright days!”</p> -<p>Now the crimson and golden clouds are parting, -and he bursts on the bewildered sight. One -moment more, and the whole earth rejoices in -his beams, falling alike, as they do, upon the prince -and the peasant of every land. And now, on either -side and beneath the sun, an array of new-born -<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span> -clouds are gathering, like a band of cavaliers, -preparing to accompany their leader on a journey. -Out of the Atlantic have they just arisen; at noon -they will have pitched their tents on the cerulean -plains of heaven; and when the hours of day -are numbered, the far-off waters of the Pacific will -again receive them in its cool embrace.</p> -<p>Listen! was not that the roar of waves? Naught -but the report of thunder in the valley below. Are -not the two oceans coming together? See! we are -on a rock, in the midst of an illimitable sea, and the -tide is surely rising—rising rapidly! Strange! it is -still as death, and yet the oceans are covered with -billows. Lo! the naked masts of a ship, stranded -on a lee-shore; and yonder, as if a reef were hidden -there to impede their course, the waves are struggling -in despair, now leaping to the sky, and now -plunging into a deep abyss! And when they have -passed the unseen enemy, how rapid and beautiful -are their various evolutions, as they hasten to the -more distant shore.</p> -<p>Another look, and what a change! The mists -of morning are being exhaled by the risen sun; -already the world of waters is dispersed, and in -the valley of the Hudson, far far away, are reposing -all the enchanting features of the green earth.</p> -<p>We descended the mountain by a circuitous -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -route, that we might enjoy the luxury of passing -through Plauterkill Clove. The same spring that -gives rise to Schoharie Creek, which is the principal -tributary of the Mohawk, also gives rise to the -Plauterkill. In its very infancy it begins to leap -and laugh with the gladness of a boy. From its -source to the plain, the distance is only two miles, -and yet it has a fall of twenty-five hundred feet; -but the remainder of its course, until it reaches -the Esopus, is calm and picturesque; and on every -side, and at every turn, may be seen the farm-houses -of a sturdy yeomanry.</p> -<p>The wild gorge, or dell, through which it passes, -abounds in waterfalls of surpassing beauty, varying -from ten to a hundred feet in height, whose rocks -are green with the moss of centuries, and whose -brows are ever wreathed with the most exquisite -of vines and flowers. Here is the Double Leap, -with its almost fathomless pool, containing a hermit -trout, that has laughed at the angler’s skill for a -score of years; the Fall of the Mountain Spirit, -haunted, as it is said, by the disembodied spirit of -an Indian girl, who lost her life here, while pursuing -a phantom of the brain; and here is the Blue Bell -Fall, for ever guarded by a multitudinous array -of those charming flowers. Caverns, too, and -chasms are here, dark, deep, chilly, and damp, -<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span> -where the toad, the lizard, and snake, and strange -families of insects, are perpetually multiplying, and -actually seeming to enjoy their loathsome lives; and -here is the Black Chasm and the Devil’s Chamber, -the latter with perpendicular walls, twice the height -of Old Trinity, and with a wainscoting of pines and -hemlocks, which have “braved a thousand years the -battle and the breeze.” Plauterkill Clove is an eddy -of the great and tumultuous world, and in itself -a world of unwritten poetry, whose primitive loveliness -has not yet been disfigured by the influence -of Mammon. It has been consecrated by a brotherhood -of friends, well tried and true, to the pure -religion of nature; and after spending a summer -day therein, and then emerging under the open sky, -their feelings are always allied to those of a pilgrim -in a strange land, passing through the dreamy -twilight of an old cathedral.</p> -<p>But it is time that I should change my tune, -as I desire to record a few fishing adventures, which -I have lately experienced among the Catskills. -My first excursion was performed along the margin -of Sweetwater Brook, which flows out of the lake -already mentioned. My guide and companion was -a notorious hunter of this region, named Peter Hummel, -whose services I have engaged for all my future -rambles among the mountains. He is decidedly -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -one of the wildest and rarest characters I have ever -known, and would be a valuable acquisition to a -menagerie. He was born in a little hut, at the foot -of South Peak, is twenty-seven years of age, and -has never been to school a day in his life, or, in his -travels towards civilization, further away from home -than fifteen miles. He was educated for a bark-gatherer, -his father and several brothers having -always been in the business; but Peter is averse to -common-place labour, to anything, in fact, that will -bring money.</p> -<p>When a boy of five years, he had an inkling for -the mountains, and once had wandered so far, that -he was found by his father, in the den of an old -bear, playing with her cubs. To tramp among -the mountains, with gun and dog, is Peter’s chief -and only happiness. He is probably one of the -best specimens of a hunter now living; and very -few, I fancy, could have survived the dangers to -which he has exposed himself. As to his constitution, -he seems to be one of those iron mortals, -who never die with age and infirmity, but who -generally meet with a sudden death, as if to recompense -them for their heedlessness. But with all -his wildness and recklessness, Peter Hummel is as -amiable and kind-hearted a man as ever breathed. -He is an original wit, withal, and shrewd and very -<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span> -laughable are many of his speeches; and his stories -are the cream of romance and genuine mountain -poetry.</p> -<p>But to my story. As usual, we started on our -tramp at an early hour, he with a trout-basket in -his hand, containing our dinner, and I with my -sketch-book and a “pilgrim staff.” After a tiresome -ascent of three hours, up a mountain path, -over ledges and through gloomy ravines, we at last -reached the wished-for brook. All the day long -were we cheered by its happy song, as we descended, -now leaping from one deep pool to another, and -now scrambling over green-coated rocks, under and -around fallen trees, and along the damp, slippery -sides of the mountain, until we reached its mouth -on a plain, watered by a charming river, and -sprinkled with the rustic residences of the Dutch -yeomanry. We were at home by sunset, having -walked the distance of twenty miles, and captured -one hundred and fifty trout, the most of which -we distributed among the farm-houses in our way, -as we returned. The trout were small, varying -from three to eight ounces in weight, and of a -dark brown colour.</p> -<p>On another occasion, I had taken my sketch-book -and some fishing-tackle, and gone up a -mountain road to the banks of Schoharie Creek, -<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span> -nominally for the purpose of sketching a few trees. -In the very first hole of the stream into which -I accidentally peered, I discovered a large trout -lying near the bottom, just above a little bed of -sand, whence rose the bubbles of a spring. For -some thirty minutes I watched the fellow with a -“yearning tenderness;” but as he appeared to be -so very happy, and I was in a kindred mood, I -thought that I would let him live. Presently, -however, a beautiful fly lighted on the water, which -the greedy hermit swallowed in a minute, and -returned to his cool bed with his conscience, as -I fancied, not one whit troubled by what he had -done. Involuntarily I began to unwind my line; -and having cut a pole, and repeated to myself something -about “diamond cut diamond,” I whipped -on a red hackle and passed it over the pool. -The rogue of a trout, however, saw me, and scorned -for awhile to heed my lure. But I coaxed and -coaxed, until at last he darted for it, apparently -out of mere spite. Something similar to a miniature -water-spout immediately arose, and the monarch -of the brook was in a fair way of sharing the same -fate which had befallen the innocent fly. I learned -a salutary lesson from this incident, and as I had -yielded to the temptation of the brook, I shouldered -my sketch-book and descended the stream. At -<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span> -noon I reached a farm-house, where I craved something -to eat. A good dinner was given me, which -was seasoned by many questions, and some information, -concerning trout. That afternoon, in company -with a little boy, I visited a neighbouring stream, -called the Roaring Kill, where I caught one hundred -and sixty fish. I then returned to the farm-house, -and spent the evening in conversation with my new -acquaintances. After breakfast, on the following -morning, I set out for home, and reached there -about noon, having made only two additions to my -sketches. Long shall I remember the evening -spent with this family, and their hospitality towards -an entire stranger. A pleasant family was that -night added to my list of friends.</p> -<p>Another of my trouting pilgrimages was to a -famous place, called Stony Clove, among the mountains -of Shaudaken. It is a deep perpendicular -cut, or gorge, between two mountains, two thousand -feet in depth, from twenty feet to four hundred -in width, and completely lined, from base to -summit, with luxuriant vegetation. It is watered -by a narrow but deep brook, which is so full of -trout, that some seven hundred were captured by -myself and two others in a single day. When I -tell you that this spot is only about one hundred -miles from New York, you will be surprised to -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -learn, that in its immediate vicinity we saw no -less than two bears, one doe with two fawns, and -other valuable game.</p> -<p>In some parts of this Clove the sunshine never -enters, and whole tons of the purest ice may be -found there throughout the year. It is, indeed, -a most lonely and desolate corner of the world, -and might be considered a fitting type of the -Valley of the Shadow of Death; in single file -did we have to pass through it, and in single file do -the sons of men pass into the grave. To spend one -day there, we had to encamp two nights; and how -we generally manage that affair I will mention -presently.</p> -<p>In returning from Stony Clove, we took a circuitous -route, and visited the Mountain House. -We approached it by the way of the celebrated -Kauterskill Fall, which I will describe to you in -the graphic language of Cooper, as you may not -remember the passage in his “Pioneer.” “Why -there’s a fall in the hills, where the water of two -little ponds, that lie near each other, breaks out of -their bounds, and runs over the rocks into the -valley. The stream is, may be, such a one as would -turn a mill, if so useless a thing was wanted in the -wilderness. <i>But the Hand that made that ‘Leap’ -never made a mill!</i> There the water comes croaking -<span class="pb" id="Page_21">21</span> -and winding among the rocks, first so slow that -a trout might swim in it, and then starting and -running, just like any creature that wanted to make -a fair spring, till it gets to where the mountain -divides, like the cleft foot of a deer, leaving a deep -hollow for the brook to tumble into. The first -pitch is nigh two hundred feet, and the water looks -like flakes of snow afore it touches the bottom, and -then gathers itself together again for a new start, -and, may be, flutters over fifty feet of flat rock, -before it falls for another hundred, where it jumps -from shelf to shelf, first running this way and that -way, striving to get out of the hollow, till it finally -comes to the plain.”</p> -<p>Our party, on this occasion, consisted of three, -Peter Hummel, a bark-gatherer, and myself. I had -chosen these fellows for the expedition, because of -their friendship for me and their willingness to go, -and I resolved to give them a “treat” at the -“Grand Hotel,” which the natives of this region -look upon as a kind of paradise. The reader is -no doubt aware, that the Mountain House is an -establishment vieing in its style of accommodation -with the best of hotels.</p> -<p>Between it and the Hudson there is, during -the summer, a semi-daily line of stages; and it -is the transient resort of thousands, who visit -it for the novelty of its situation, as well as for -<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span> -the surrounding scenery. The edifice itself stands -on a cliff, within a few feet of the edge, and -commands a prospect extending from Long Island -Sound to the White Mountains. The first time I -visited the spot, I spent half the night at my bed-room -window, watching the fantastic performances of a -thunder-storm far below me, which made the building -tremble like a ship upon a reef, while the sky -above was cloudless, and studded with stars. Between -this spot and South Peak, “there’s the High -Peak and the Round Top which lay back, like a -father and mother among their children, seeing -they are far above all the other hills.”</p> -<p>But to proceed. Coarsely and comically dressed -as we were, we made a very unique appearance -as we paraded into the office of the hotel. I met a -few acquaintances there, to whom I introduced my -comrades; and in a short time each one was spinning -a mountain legend to a crowd of delighted -listeners. In due time, I ushered them into the -dining-hall, where a scene was enacted which can be -better imagined than described; the fellows were -completely out of their element, and it was laughable -in the extreme to see them stare, and hear them -talk, as the servants bountifully helped them to the -turtle-soup, ice-cream, charlotte-russe, and other -fashionable dainties.</p> -<p>About the middle of the afternoon we commenced -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -descending the beautiful mountain road leading -towards the Hudson. In the morning there had -been a heavy shower, and a thousand happy rills -attended us with a song. A delightful nook on this -road is pointed out as the identical spot where -Rip Van Winkle slept away a score of his life. I -reached home in time to spend the twilight hour in -my own room, musing upon the much-loved mountains. -I had but one companion, and that was -a whip-poor-will, which nightly comes to my -window-sill, as if to tell me a tale of its love, or of -the woods and solitary wilderness.</p> -<p>But the most unique and interesting of my -fishing adventures remains to be described. I had -heard a great deal about the good fishing afforded -by the lake already mentioned, and I desired to -visit it, and spend a night upon its shore. Having -spoken to my friend Hummel, and invited a neighbour -to accompany us, whom the people have named -“White Yankee,” the noontide hour of a pleasant -day found us on our winding march; and such -a grotesque appearance as we made, was exceedingly -amusing. The group was mostly animated when -climbing the steep and rocky ravines which we were -compelled to pass through. There was Peter, “long, -lank and lean,” and wild in his attire and countenance -as an eagle of the wilderness, with an axe in his hand, -<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span> -and a huge knapsack on his back, containing our -provisions and utensils for cooking. Next to him -followed White Yankee, with three blankets lashed -upon his back, a slouched white hat on his head, -and nearly a half pound of tobacco in his mouth. -Crooked legged withal, and somewhat sickly was -this individual, and being wholly unaccustomed to -this kind of business, he went along groaning, -grunting, and fuming, as if he was “sent for, and -<i>didn’t want</i> to come.” In the rear trotted along -your humble friend, with a gun upon his shoulder, a -powder-horn and shot-pouch at his side, cow-hide -boots on his feet, and a cap on his head—his beard -half an inch long, and his flowing hair streaming in -the wind.</p> -<p>We reached our place of destination about five -o’clock, and halted under a large impending rock, -which was to be our sleeping place. We were -emphatically under the “shadow of a rock, in a -weary land.” Our first business was to build a fire, -which we did with about one cord of green and dry -wood. Eighty poles were then cut, to which we -fastened our lines. The old canoe in the lake was -bailed out, and having baited our hooks with the -minnows we had brought with us, we planted the -poles in about seven feet water, all around the lake -shore. We then prepared and ate our supper, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span> -awaited the coming on of night. During this -interval, I learned the following particulars concerning -the lake. It was originally discovered by a -hunter, named Shew. It is estimated to cover -about fifty acres, and in the centre, to be more than -two hundred feet in depth. For my part, however, -I do not believe it contains over five acres, though -the mountains which tower on every side but one, -are calculated to deceive the eye; but, as to its -depth, I could easily fancy it to be bottomless, for -the water is remarkably dark. To the number of -trout in this lake there seems to be no end. It is -supposed they reach it, when small, through Sweetwater -Brook, when they increase in size, and -multiply. It also abounds in green and scarlet -lizards, which are a serious drawback to the pleasures -of the fastidious angler. I asked Peter many -questions concerning his adventures about the lake, -and he told me that the number of “harmless -murders” he had committed here was about three -hundred. In one day, he shot three deer; at -another time, a dozen turkeys; at another, twenty -ducks; one night, an old bear; and again, half a -dozen coons; and, on one occasion, annihilated a -den of thirty-seven rattlesnakes.</p> -<p>At nine o’clock, we lighted a torch and went to -examine our lines; and it was my good fortune to -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -haul out not less than forty-one trout, weighing -from one to two pounds a-piece. These, we put -into a spring of very cold water, which bubbled -from the earth a few paces from our camping place, -and then retired to repose. Branches of hemlock -constituted our couch, and my station was between -Peter and White Yankee. Little did I dream, -when I first saw these two bipeds, that I should -ever have them for my bed-fellows; but who can -tell what shall be on the morrow? My friends were -in the land of Nod in less than a dozen minutes -after we had retired; but it was hard for me to go -to sleep in the midst of the wild scene which surrounded -me. There I lay, flat on my back, a stone -and my cap for a pillow, and wrapt in a blanket, -with my nose exposed to the chilly night air. And -what pictures did my fancy conjure up, as I looked -upon the army of trunks around me, glistening in -the fire-light! One moment they were a troop of -Indians from the spirit-land, come to revisit again -the hunting grounds of their fathers, and weeping -because the white man had desecrated their soil; -and again, I fancied them to be a congress of wild -animals, assembled to try, execute, and devour us, -for the depredations our fellows had committed -upon their kind during the last one hundred years. -By and by, a star peered upon me from between the -<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span> -branches of a tree, and my thoughts ascended -heavenward. And now, my eyes twinkled and -blinked in sympathy with the star, and I was a -dreamer.</p> -<p>An hour after the witching time of night, I was -startled from my sleep by a bellowing halloo from -Peter, who said it was time to examine the lines -again. Had you heard the echoes which were then -awakened, far and near, you would have thought -yourself in enchanted land. But there were living -answers to that shout, for a frightened fox began to -bark, an owl commenced its horrible hootings, a -partridge its drumming, and a wolf its howl. -There was not a breeze stirring, and</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Nought was seen, in the vault on high,</p> -<p class="t0">But the moon, and the stars, and a cloudless sky,</p> -<p class="t0">And a river of white in the welkin blue.”</p> -</div> -<p>Peter and Yankee went out to haul in the trout, -but I remained on shore to attempt a drawing, by -moonlight, of the lake before me. The opposite side -of the mountain, with its dark tangled forest, was -perfectly mirrored in the waters below, the whole -seeming as solid and variegated as a tablet of Egyptian -marble. The canoe with its inmates noiselessly -pursued its way, making the stillness more profound. -In the water at my feet I distinctly saw lizards -<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span> -sporting about, and I could not but wonder why -such reptiles were ever created. I thought, with the -Ancient Mariner,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“A thousand slimy things lived on,</p> -<p class="t0">And so did I.”</p> -</div> -<p>Again did we retire to rest, slumbering until the -break of day. We then partook of a substantial -trout breakfast, gathered up our plunder, and with -about one hundred handsome trout started for -home.</p> -<p>The accidents we met with during the night -were harmless, though somewhat ridiculous. A -paper of matches, which Peter carried in his -breeches’ pocket, took fire, and gave him such a -scorching that he bellowed lustily. White Yankee, -in his restless slumber, rolled so near our watch-fire, -that he barely escaped with one corner of his -blanket, the remainder having been consumed. As -for me, I only fell into the water among the lizards, -while endeavouring to reach the end of a log, -which extended into the lake. In descending the -mountain, we shot three partridges, and confoundedly -frightened a fox; and by the middle of -the afternoon, were quietly pursuing our usual -avocations among our fellow-men of the lower -world.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<h2 id="c2">CHAPTER II.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">A Spring Day—The Sky—The Mountains—The Streams—The -Woods—The Open Fields—Domestic Animals—Poetry—The -Poultry-yard.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Plauterkill Clove. May.</span></p> -<p>May is near its close, and I am still in the valley -of the Hudson. Spring is indeed come again, and -this, for the present year, has been its day of -triumph. The moment I awoke at dawn, this -morning, I knew by intuition that it would be so, -and I bounded from my couch like a startled deer, -impatient for the cool delicious air. Spring is upon -the earth once more, and a new life is given me of -enjoyment and hope. The year is in its childhood, -and my heart clings to it with a sympathy, that I -feel must be immortal and divine. What I have -done to-day, I cannot tell: I only know that my -body has been tremulous with feeling, and my eyes -almost blinded with seeing. Every hour has been -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -fraught with a new emotion of delight, and presented -to my vision numberless pictures of surpassing -beauty. I have held communion with the -sky, the mountains, the streams, the woods, and -the fields; and these, if you please, shall be themes -of my present chapter.</p> -<p>The sky! It has been of as deep an azure, and as -serene, as ever canopied the world. It seemed as if -you could look through it, into the illimitable home -of the angels—could almost behold the glory which -surrounds the Invisible. Three clouds alone have -attracted my attention. One was the offspring of -the dawn, and encircled by a rim of gold; the next -was the daughter of noon, and white as the driven -snow; and the last of evening, and robed in deepest -crimson. Wayward and coquettish creatures were -these clouds! Their chief ambition seemed to be -to display their charms to the best advantage, as if -conscious of their loveliness; and, at sunset, when -the light lay pillowed on the mountains, it was a -joyous sight to see them, side by side, like three -sweet sisters, as they were, going home. Each one -was anxious to favour the world with its own last -smile, and by their changing places so often, you -would have thought they were all unwilling to -depart. But they were the ministers of the Sun, -and he would not tarry for them; and, while he -<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span> -beckoned them to follow on, the Evening Star took -his station in the sky, and bade them depart: and -when I looked again, they were gone. Never more, -thought I, will those clouds be a source of joy to a -human heart. And in this respect, also, they -seemed to me to be the emblems of those beautiful -but thoughtless maidens, who spend the flower of -youth trifling with the affections of all whom they -have the power to fascinate.</p> -<p>The mountains! In honour of the season which -has just clothed them in the richest green, they -have this day displayed every one of their varied -and interesting charms. At noon, as I lay under -the shadow of a tree, watching them “with a look -made of all sweet accord,” my face was freshened -by a breeze. It appeared to come from the summit -of South Peak, and to be the voice of the Catskills -I listened, and these were the words which echoed -through my ear:</p> -<p>“Of all the seasons, oh, Spring! thou art the -most beloved, and to us, always the most welcome. -Joy and gladness ever attend thy coming, for we -know that the ‘winter is past, the rains are over -and gone, the time of the singing of birds is come, -and the voice of the turtle is heard in our land.’ -And we know, too, that from thy hands flow -unnumbered blessings. Thou softenest the earth, -<span class="pb" id="Page_32">32</span> -that the husbandman may sow his seed, which shall -yield him a thousand fold at the harvest. Thou -releasest the rivers from their icy fetters, that the -wings of commerce may be unfurled once more. -Thou givest food to the cattle upon a thousand hills, -that they, in their turn, may furnish man with -necessary food, and also assist him in his domestic -labours. Thou coverest the earth with a garniture -of freshest loveliness, that the senses of man may be -gratified, and his thoughts directed to Him who -hath created all things, and pronounced them good. -And, finally, thou art the hope of the year, and -thine admonitions, which are of the future, have a -tendency to emancipate the thoughts of man from -this world, and the troubles which may surround -him here, and fix them upon that clime where an -eternal spring abides.” “The voice in my -dreaming ear melted away,” and I heard the roaring -of the streams as they fretted their way down the -rocky steeps.</p> -<p>The streams! Such “trumpets” as they have -blown to-day, would, I am afraid, have caused Mr. -Wordsworth to exclaim:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The cataracts—<i>make a devilish noise up yonder</i>.”</p> -</div> -<p>The fact is, as “all the earth is gay,” and all the -springs among the mountains are “giving themselves -<span class="pb" id="Page_33">33</span> -up to jollity,” the streams are full to overflowing, -and rush along with a “vindictive -looseness,” because of the burden they have to -bear. The falls and cascades, which make such -exquisite pictures in the summer months, are now -fearful to behold, for, in their anger, every now -and then they toss some giant tree into an abyss of -foam, which makes one tremble with fear. But -after the streams have left the mountains, and are -running through the bottom-lands, they still appear -to be displeased with something, and at every turn -they take, delve into the “bowels of the harmless -earth,” making it dangerous for the angler to -approach too near, but rendering the haunt of the -trout more spacious and commodious than before. -The streams are about the only things I cannot -praise to-day, and I hope it will not rain for a -month to come, if this is the way they intend to -act whenever we have a number of delightful -showers.</p> -<p>The woods! A goodly portion of the day have -I spent in one of their most secret recesses. I went -with Shakspeare under my arm, but could not -read, any more than fly, so I stretched myself at -full length on a huge log, and kept a sharp look-out -for anything that might send me a waking -dream. The brotherhood of trees clustered around -<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span> -me, laden with leaves just bursting into full maturity, -and possessing that delicate and peculiar -green, which lasts but a single day, and never -returns. A fitful breeze swept through them, so -that ever and anon I fancied a gushing fountain to -be near, or that a company of ladies fair were come -to visit me, and that I heard the rustle of their -silken kirtles. And now my eyes rested on a tree, -that was entirely leafless, and almost without a -limb. Instead of grass at its foot, was a heap of -dry leaves, and not a bush or vine grew anywhere -near it, but around its neighbours they grew in -great abundance. It seemed branded with a curse, -alone, forsaken of its own, and despised by all. -Can this, thought I, be an emblem of any human -being? Strange that it should be, but it is nevertheless -too true. Only one week ago I saw a poor -miserable maniac bound hand and foot, driven -from “home and all its treasures,” and carried to a -dark, damp prison-house in a neighbouring town. -I can be reconciled to the mystery of a poisonous -reptile’s existence, but it is very hard to understand -for what good purpose a maniac is created. -Another object I noticed, was a little tree about -five feet high, completely covered with blossoms of -a gaudy hue. At first, I tried to gather something -poetical out of this thing, but with all my -<span class="pb" id="Page_35">35</span> -endeavours, I could not. It caused me a real -hearty laugh as the idea expanded, for it reminded -me of a certain maiden lady of my acquaintance, -who is old, stunted, very fond of tall men and -always strutting round under a weight of jewelry. -But oh! what beautiful flowers did I notice in that -shady grove, whose whispering thrilled me with -delight! Their names? I cannot tell them to -you, fair reader; they ought to have no names, any -more than a cloud or a foam-bell on the river. -Some were blue, some white, some purple, and -some scarlet. There were little parties of them on -every side; and as the wind swayed their delicate -stems, I could not but fancy they were living -creatures, the personified thoughts perhaps of happy -and innocent children. Occasionally, too, I noticed -a sort of straggler peeping at me from beside a -hillock of moss, or from under the branches of a -fallen tree, as if surprised at my temerity in entering -its secluded haunt. Birds also were around me -in that greenwood sanctuary, singing their hymns -of praise to the Father of mercies for the return of -spring. The nests of the females being already -built, they had nothing to do but be happy, anticipating -the time when they themselves should be the -“dealers-out of some small blessings” to their -helpless broods. As to their mates, they were -<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span> -about as independent, restless and noisy as might -be expected, very much as any rational man would -be who was the husband of a young and beautiful -wife.</p> -<p>But the open fields to-day have superabounded -with pictures to please and instruct the mind. I -know not where to begin to describe them. Shall -it be at the very threshold of our farm-house? Well, -then, only look at those lilac trees in the garden, -actually top-heavy with purple and white flowering -pyramids. The old farmer has just cut a number -of large branches, and given them to his little -daughter to carry to her mother, who will distribute -them between the mantel-piece, the table, -and the fire-place of the family sitting-room. But -what ambrosial odour is that which now salutes the -senses? It comes not from the variegated corner -of the garden, where the tulip, the violet, the -hyacinth, the blue bell, and the lily of the valley -are vieing to outstrip each other in their attire; nor, -from that clover-covered lawn, besprinkled with -butter-cups, strawberry blossoms, and honey-suckles; -but from the orchard, every one of whose -trees are completely covered with snow-white -blossoms. And from their numberless petals -emanates the murmur of bees, as they are busy -extracting the luscious honey.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<p>What an abundance of fruit—of apples, cherries, -peaches and pears, do these sweet blossoms promise! -But next week there may be a bitter frost; and -this is the lesson which my heart learns. Now that -I am in the spring-time of life, my hopes, in -number and beauty, are like the blossoms of trees, -and I know not but they may even on the morrow -be withered by the chilly breath of the grave. But -let us loiter farther on. The western slope of this -gentle hill is equally divided, and of two different -shades of green; one is planted with rye, and the -other with wheat. The eastern slope of the hill has -lately been loosened by the plough, and is of a -sombre colour, but to my eye not less pleasing than -the green. And this view is enlivened with figures -besides—for a farmer and two boys are planting -corn, the latter opening the bed with their hoes, -and the former dropping in the seed (which he -carries in a bag slung at his side), and covering it -with his foot. And now, fluttering over their heads -is a roguish bob-o-link, scolding about something -in their wake; at a respectful distance, and hopping -along the ground are a number of robins; and on -the nearest fence a meadow-lark and bluebird are -“holding on for a bite.” But there is no end to -these rural pictures, so I will just take my reader -<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span> -into this neighbouring meadow-pasture, thence into -the poultry-yard at home, and conclude my present -rhapsody.</p> -<p>Here we are, then, in the midst of various -domestic animals. Yonder, a couple of black colts -are chasing each other in play, while their venerable -mother (for they are brothers, though not twins) is -standing a little way off, watching their antics, and -twisting about her ears, as she remembers the -happy days of her own colthood. Here are some -half dozen hearty cows, lying down and grazing, -each one with a “pledge of affection” sporting -about her. There are six or eight oxen, eating -away as fast as they can, while one, who seems to -be a sentinel, occasionally rolls up his eye to see -if the farmer is coming to renew his song of “haw! -gee! gee! haw!” Under the shadow of that old -oak is a flock of sheep, with their lambs bounding -beside them, as to the “tabor’s sound;” but to -me there comes no “thought of grief” at the -sight, wherein I must be suffered to disagree with -Wordsworth, to whom I have already alluded once -or twice, and whose celebrated and most wonderful -Ode has been echoing in my heart all the day long. -Some of the lines in it are appropriate to the day, -the charms of which I am attempting to make you -<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span> -feel, reader, and you will oblige me by reading and -inwardly digesting, the following fragments of a -whole, and yet really complete poems:—</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The sunshine is a glorious birth”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The winds come to me from the fields of sleep.”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“And the babe leaps up on his mother’s arm.”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Earth fills her lap with pleasures of her own.”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Full soon thy soul shalt have her earthly freight,</p> -<p class="t0">And custom lie upon thee with a weight,</p> -<p class="t0">Heavy as fate, and deep almost as life.”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“O joy, that in our embers</p> -<p class="t">Is something that doth live,</p> -<p class="t0">That nature yet remembers</p> -<p class="t">What was so fugitive.”</p> -</div> -<hr /> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“To me, the meanest flower that blows, can give</p> -<p class="t0">Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears.”</p> -</div> -<p>Strange, that a rational man, after dwelling -upon such poetry, should be willing to go into a -poultry-yard. But why not? I would rather do -this willingly than be compelled, as I have been, -and may be again, to hear a man say, after reading -<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span> -to him Wordsworth’s great Ode—“Why! of what -use is such stuff? what does it prove? will it furnish -a man with bread and butter? will it make the pot -boil?” The people of the poultry-yard have been -in such glee to-day, and contributed so much to -the gladness of the day, that I must pay them a -passing tribute.</p> -<p>In the first place, our old gobbler, with his -retinue of turkey wives, has been on the point of -bursting with pride ever since sunrise. If the -Grand Sultan of Turkey (who must be the father of -all turkeys) cuts the same kind of capers in the -presence of his hundred ladies, Turkey must be a -great country for lean people to “laugh and grow -fat in.” Our gobbler is a feathered personification -of Jack Falstaff, possessing his prominent trait of -cowardice to perfection. I flourished a red handkerchief -in his face this morning, and, by the way -he strutted round and gobbled, you would have -thought he was going to devour you. About ten -minutes after this, I threw down a handful of corn, -which was intended for his particular palate. -While he was busy picking it up, a certain cock -stepped alongside and commenced picking too: the -intruder, having got in the way of the gobbler, was -suddenly pushed aside; whereupon the gentleman -with spurs chuckled and “showed fight,” but the -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -gobbler for a moment heeded him not. This the -cock could not bear, so he pounced upon his enemy, -and whipped him without mercy, until the coward -and fool ran away, with his long train of affectionate -wives following behind.</p> -<p>The cocks, hens and chickens, which have figured -in the yard to-day, would more than number a -hundred, and such cackling, crowing, chuckling, -and crying as they have made, was anything but -a “concord of sweet sounds.” But the creatures -have been happy, and it was therefore a pleasure to -look at them. A young hen this morning made her -first appearance with a large brood of chickens, -yellow as gold, and this caused quite a sensation -among the feathered husbands generally. The -mother, as she rambled about, seemed to say by -her pompous air, to her daughterless friends—“ar’nt -they beautiful? don’t you wish you had a -few?” It was also very funny to see with what -looks of astonishment the youthful cocks surveyed -these “infant phenomenons.” As to our ducks, -and geese, and guinea hens, they have minded -their business pretty well—the two former paddling -about the creek and mud-puddles, and the latter -“between meals” roaming at large through the -orchard and garden, altogether the most beautiful -and rational of the feathered tribes.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_42">42</div> -<p>A mountaineer, who is to take this queer record -to the post-office, is waiting for me, and I must -close,—hoping that the country pictures I have -endeavoured to sketch may have a tendency to make -my reader feel a portion of that joy, which has characterized -this delightful Spring Day.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<h2 id="c3">CHAPTER III.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">A corn-planting Bee.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Plauterkill Clove. May.</span></p> -<p>The people who inhabit that section of country -lying between the Catskill Mountains and the -Hudson River, are undoubtedly the legitimate -descendants of the far-famed Rip Van Winkle. -Dutch blood floweth in their veins, and their names, -appearance, manners, are all Dutch, and Dutch -only. The majority of them are engaged in tilling -the soil, and as they seem to be satisfied with a -bare competency, the peacefulness of their lives is -only equalled by their ignorance of books, and the -world at large. The height of their ambition is to -enjoy a frolic, and what civilized people understand -by that term, they designate a Bee. Not only have -they their wedding and funeral Bees, but they commemorate -their agricultural labours with a Bee, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span> -of these, the Corn-Planting Bee, which I am about -to describe, is a fair specimen.</p> -<p>A certain old Dutchman of my acquaintance had -so long neglected the field where he intended to -plant his corn, that he found it necessary to retrieve -his reputation by getting up a Bee. He therefore -immediately issued his verbal invitations, and at two -o’clock on the appointed day, about seventy of his -neighbours, including men and women, made their -appearance at his dwelling, each one of them furnished -with a hoe and a small bag to carry the seed. -After supplying his guests with all they wanted in -the way of spiritual drink, my friend gave the -signal, and shouldering a large hoe started off for -the field of action, closely followed by his neighbours, -who fell to work lustily. The field -was large, but as the planters were numerous, it -was entirely planted at least two hours before sunset, -when the party was disbanded, with the express -understanding resting upon their minds that they -should invite their children to the dance, which was -to take place in the evening at the Bee-giver’s -residence.</p> -<p>The house of my farmer friend having been originally -built for a tavern, it happened to contain a -large ball-room, and on this occasion it was stripped -of its beds and bedding, and the walls thereof -<span class="pb" id="Page_45">45</span> -decked from top to bottom with green branches and -an occasional tallow candle, and conspicuous at one -end of the hall was a refreshment establishment, -well supplied with pies, gingerbread, molasses, -candy and cigars, with an abundance of coloured -alcohols.</p> -<p>The number of young men and women who came -together on the occasion was about one hundred, -and while they were trimming themselves for the -approaching dance, the musician, a huge, long-legged -and bony Dutchman, was tuning a rusty -fiddle. The thirty minutes occupied by him in this -interesting business were employed by the male -portion of the guests in “wetting their whistles.” -The dresses worn on the occasion were eminently -rustic and unique. Those of the gentlemen, for -the most part, were made of a coarse grey cloth, -similar to that worn by the residents on Blackwell’s -Island, while the ladies were arrayed in white -cotton, trimmed with a narrow scarlet ribbon. -Pumps being out of vogue, cow-hide boots were -worn by the former, and calf brogans by the latter.</p> -<p>All things being now ready, a terribly loud shriek -came from the poor little fiddle, and the clattering -of heels commenced, shaking the building to its -very foundation. “On with the dance, let joy be -<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span> -unconfined,” seemed to be the motto of all present; -and from the start, there seemed to be a strife -between the male and the female dancers, as to who -should leap the highest and make the most noise. -Desperate were the efforts of the musician, as he -toiled away upon his instrument, keeping discord -with his heels; and every unusual wail of the fiddle -was the forerunner of a profuse perspiration, which -came rolling off of the fiddler’s face to the floor. -And then the joyous delirium of the musician was -communicated to the dancers, and as the dance -proceeded, their efforts became still more desperate; -the women wildly threw back their hair, and many -of the men took off their coats, and rolled up their -shirt-sleeves for the purpose of keeping cool. In -spite of every effort, however, the faces of the -dancers became quite red with the excitement, -and the hall was filled with a kind of heated fog, in -which the first “break-down” of the evening concluded.</p> -<p>Then followed the refreshment scene. The men -drank whisky and smoked cigars, while the women -feasted upon mince-pies, drank small beer, and -sucked molasses candy. Some of the smaller men, -or boys, who were too lazy to dance, sneaked off -into an out-of-the-way room for the purpose of -<span class="pb" id="Page_47">47</span> -pitching pennies; while a few couples, who were -victims to the tender passion, retired to some cozy -nook, to bask unobserved in each other’s smiles.</p> -<p>But now the screeching fiddle is again heard -above the murmur of talking and laughing voices, -and another rush is made for the sanded floor. -Another dance is there enjoyed, differing from the -one already described only in its increased extravagance. -After sawing away for a long time, as if for -dear life, the musician is politely requested to play -a new tune. Promptly does he assent to the proposition, -but having started on a fresh key, he soon -falls into the identical strain, which had kept him -busy for the previous hour; so that the philosophic -listener is compelled to conclude that the fiddler -either cannot play more than one tune, or that he -has a particular passion for the monotonous and -nameless one to which he so closely clings. And -thus, with many indescribable variations does the -ball continue throughout the entire night.</p> -<p>I did not venture to trip the “light fantastic toe” -on the occasion in question, but my enjoyment as a -calm spectator was very amusing and decidedly -original. Never before had I seen a greater amount -of labour performed by men and women in the same -time. I left this interesting assembly about midnight, -fully satisfied with what I had seen and -<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span> -heard; but I was afterwards told that I missed more -than “half the fun.”</p> -<p>When the music was loudest, so it appears, and -the frenzy of the dance at its climax, a select party -of Dutch gentlemen were suddenly seized with an -appetite for some more substantial food than had -yet been given them. They held a consultation on -the important subject, and finally agreed to ransack -the garret and cellar of their host for the purpose of -satisfying their natural desires. In the former -place they found a good supply of dried beef, and -in the latter, a few loaves of bread and a jar of rich -cream, upon which they regaled themselves without -favour, but with some fear. The giver of the Bee -subsequently discovered what had been done, and -though somewhat more than “three sheets in the -wind” slyly sent for a pair of constables, who soon -made their appearance, and arrested the thieving -guests, who were held to bail in the sum of fifty -dollars each. I was also informed that the dance -was kept up until six o’clock in the morning, and -that the appearance of my friend’s establishment, -and the condition of his guests at seven o’clock, was -ridiculous in the extreme. A small proportion of -the Bee-party only had succeeded in starting for -home, so that the number who, from excess of -drinking and undue fatigue had retired to repose, -<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span> -was not far from three score and ten. The sleeping -accommodation of the host was limited, and the -consequence was, that his guests had to shift for -themselves, as they best could. The floors of every -room in the house, including the pantries, were -literally covered with men and women; some of -them moaning with a severe head-ache, some -breathing audibly in a deep sleep, and others -snoring in the loudest and most approved style. -By twelve o’clock, the interesting company had -stolen off to their several homes, and the Corn-Planting -Bee, among the Catskills, was at an end.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div> -<h2 id="c4">CHAPTER IV.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Lake Horicon—Sketches of its scenery—Information for anglers—Sabbath-day -Point—War memories—The Turret City—Death -of a deer—Roger’s Slide—Diamond Island—The snake-charmer—Snake -stories—Night on the Horicon.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Lyman’s Tavern. June.</span></p> -<p>If circumstances alone could make one poetical, -then might you expect from me on this occasion -a paper of rare excellence and beauty. My sketch-book -is my desk, my canopy from the sunshine an -elm-tree, the carpet under my feet a rich green -sprinkled with flowers, the music in my ear of -singing birds, and the prospect before me, north, -east, and south, the tranquil bosom of Lake George, -with its islands and surrounding mountains, whose -waters, directly at my side, are alive with many -kinds of fish, sporting together on a bed of sand. -Yes, the far-famed Lake George is my subject, -<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span> -but in what I write I shall not use that title; for I -do not like the idea of christening what belongs -to us with the name of an English monarch, however -much his memory deserves to be respected. -Shall it be Lake St. Sacrament, then? No! for -that was given to it by the Pope and the French -nation. Horicon—a musical and appropriate word, -meaning pure water, and given it by the poor -Indian—is the name which rightfully belongs to -the lake which is now my theme.</p> -<p>Lake Horicon is one of the few objects in nature -which did not disappoint me after reading the -descriptions of travellers. I verily believe, that in -point of mere beauty, it has not its superior in the -world. Its length is thirty-four miles, and its -width from two to four. Its islands number about -three hundred, and vary from ten feet to a mile -in length; a great many of them are situated in the -centre of the lake, at a place called the Narrows. -It is completely surrounded with mountains, the -most prominent of which are, Black Mountain, on -the east of the Narrows, Tongue Mountain, directly -opposite, and French Mountain, at the southern -extremity. The first is the most lofty, and remarkable -for its wildness, and the superb prospect therefrom; -the second is also wild and uninhabited, -but distinguished for its dens of rattlesnakes; and -<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span> -the latter is somewhat cultivated, but memorable -for having been the camping-ground of the French -during the Revolutionary war. The whole eastern -border is yet a comparative wilderness; but along -the western shore are some respectable farms, and a -good coach-road from Caldwell to Ticonderoga, -which affords many admirable views of the sky-blue -lake. There are three public-houses here which I -can recommend: the Lake House, for those who -are fond of company; Lyman’s Tavern, for the -hunter of scenery and lover of quiet; and Garfield’s -House, for the fisherman. A nice little steam-boat, -commanded by a gentleman, passes through the -Lake every morning and evening (excepting Sundays), -and though a convenient affair to the -traveller, it is an eye-sore to the admirer of the -wilderness.</p> -<p>Identified with this boat is an eccentric man, -named “Old Dick,” who amuses the tourist, and -collects an occasional shilling by exhibiting a -number of rattlesnakes. When, in addition to all -these things, it is remembered that Horicon is the -centre of a region made classic by the exploits of -civilized and savage warfare, it can safely be pronounced -one of the most interesting portions of our -country for the summer tourist to visit. I have -looked upon it from many a peak, whence might be -<span class="pb" id="Page_53">53</span> -seen almost every rood of its shore. I have sailed -into every one of its bays; and, like the pearl-diver, -have repeatedly descended into its cold blue chambers; -so that I have learned to love it as a faithful -and well-tried friend. Since the day of my arrival -here, I have kept a journal of my adventures; and, -as a memorial of Horicon, I will extract therefrom -and embody in this chapter the following passages.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p072.jpg" alt="" width="429" height="316" /> -<p class="caption">LAKE HORICON.</p> -</div> -<p>Six pencil sketches have I executed upon the Lake -to-day. One of them was a view of the distant -mountains, whose various outlines were concentrated -at one point, and whose colour was of that delicate -dreamy blue, created by a sunlight atmosphere, -with the sun directly in front. In the middle -<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span> -distance was a flock of islands, with a sail boat in -their midst, and in the foreground a cluster of -rocks, surmounted by a single cedar, which seemed -to be the sentinel of a fortress. Another was of the -ruins of Fort George, with a background of dark -green mountains, which was made quite desolate by -a flock of sheep sleeping in one of its shady moats. -Another was of a rowing race between two rival -fishermen, at the time when they were only a dozen -rods from the goal, and when every nerve of their -aged frames was strained to the utmost. Another -was of a neat log-cabin on a quiet lawn near the -water, at whose threshold a couple of ragged but -beautiful children were playing with a large dog, -while from the chimney of the house ascended the -blue smoke with a thousand fantastic evolutions. -Another was of a huge pine tree, which towered -conspicuously above its kindred on the mountain -side, and seemed to me an appropriate symbol of -Webster in the midst of a vast concourse of his -fellow-men. And the last was of a thunder-storm, -driven away from a mountain top by the mild -radiance of a rainbow, which partly encircled Horicon -in a loving embrace.</p> -<p class="tb">I have been fishing to-day, and, while enduring -some poor sport, indited in my mind the following -<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span> -information, for the benefit of my piscatorial friends. -The days of trout-fishing in Lake Horicon are -nearly at an end. A few years ago it abounded in -salmon-trout, which were frequently caught weighing -twenty pounds, but their average weight at the -present is not more than one pound and a half, and -they are scarce even at that. In taking them you -first have to obtain a sufficient quantity of sapling -bark to reach the bottom in sixty feet of water, to -one end of which must be fastened a stone, and to -the other a stick of wood, which designates your -fishing ground, and is called a buoy. A variety of -more common fish are then caught, such as suckers, -perch, and eels, which are cut up and deposited, -some half a peck at a time, in the vicinity of the -buoy. In a few days, the trout will begin to -assemble, and so long as you keep them well fed, -a brace of them may be captured at any time during -the summer. But the fact is, this is only another -way for “paying too dear for the whistle.” The -best angling, after all, is for the common brook -trout, which is a bolder biting fish, and better for the -table than the salmon-trout. The cause of the great -decrease in the large trout of this lake is this—in -the autumn, when they have sought the shores for -the purpose of spawning, the neighbouring barbarians -<span class="pb" id="Page_56">56</span> -have been accustomed to spear them by -torch-light; and if the heartless business does not -soon cease, the result will be, that in a few years -they will be extinct. There are two other kinds of -trout in the lake, however, which yet afford good -sport—the silver-trout, caught in the summer, and -the fall-trout. But the black-bass, upon the whole, -is now mostly valued by the fisherman. They are -in their prime in the summer months. They vary -from one to five pounds in weight; are taken by -trolling and with a drop line, and afford fine sport. -Their haunts are along the rocky shores, and it is -often the case that on a still day you may see them -from your boat swimming about in herds, where -the water is twenty feet deep. They have a queer -fashion when hooked, of leaping out of the water -for the purpose of getting clear, and it is seldom -that a novice in the gentle art can keep them from -succeeding. But alas, their numbers also are fast -diminishing, by the same means and the same -hands that have killed the trout. My advice to -those who come here exclusively for the purpose of -fishing is, to continue their journey to the sources -of the Hudson, Schroon Lake, Long Lake, and -Lake Pleasant, in whose several waters there seems -to be no end to every variety of trout, and where -<span class="pb" id="Page_57">57</span> -may be found much wild and beautiful scenery. -The angler of the present day will be disappointed -in Lake Horicon.</p> -<p class="tb">When issuing from the Narrows on your way -down the Horicon, the most attractive object, next -to the mountains, is a strip of low sandy land -extending into the lake, called Sabbath Day Point. -It was so christened by Abercrombie, who encamped -and spent the Sabbath there, when on his way to -Ticonderoga, where he was so sadly defeated. I -look upon it as one of the most enchanting places -in the world; but the pageant with which it is -associated was not only enchanting, and beautiful, -but magnificent. Only look upon the picture.</p> -<p>It is the sunset hour, and before us, far up in -the upper air, and companion of the evening star -and a host of glowing clouds, rises the majestic -form of Black Mountain, enveloped in a mantle of -rosy atmosphere. The bosom of the Lake is without -a ripple, and every cliff, ravine, and island, has its -counterpart in the pure waters. A blast of martial -music from drums, fifes, bagpipes, and bugle horns, -now falls upon the ear, and the immense procession -comes in sight; one thousand and thirty-five -battaux, containing an army of seventeen thousand -souls, headed by the brave Abercrombie and the -<span class="pb" id="Page_58">58</span> -red cross of England—the scarlet uniforms and -glistening bayonets forming a line of light against -the darker back-ground of the mountain. And -behind a log in the foreground is a crouching -Indian runner, who, with the speed of a hawk, will -carry the tidings to the French nation that an army -is coming, “numerous as the leaves upon the -trees.” Far from the strange scene fly the affrighted -denizens of mountain and wave—while thousands -of human hearts are beating happily at the prospect -of victory, whose bodies in a few hours will be food -for the raven on the plains of Ticonderoga.</p> -<p class="tb">A goodly portion of this day have I been musing -upon the olden times, while rambling about Fort -George, and Fort William Henry. Long and with -peculiar interest did I linger about the spot near -the latter, where were cruelly massacred the followers -of Monroe, at which time Montcalm linked -his name to the title of a heartless Frenchman, and -the name of Webb became identified with all that -is justly despised by the human heart. I profess -myself to be an enemy to wrong and outrage of -every kind, and yet a lover and defender of the -Indian race; but when I picked up one after another -the flinty heads of arrows, which were mementos -of an awful butchery, my spirit revolted against -<span class="pb" id="Page_59">59</span> -the Red man, and for a moment I felt a desire to -condemn him. Yes, I will condemn that particular -band of murderers, but I cannot but defend the -race.</p> -<p>Cruel and treacherous they were, I will allow, -but do we forget the treatment they ever met with -from the white man? The most righteous of -battles have ever been fought for the sake of sires -and wives and children, and for what else did the -poor Indian fight, when driven from the home of his -youth into an unknown wilderness, to become there-after -a by-word and a reproach among the nations? -“Indians,” said we, “we would have your lands; -and if you will not be satisfied with the gewgaws -we proffer, our powder and balls will teach you that -power is but another name for right.” And this is -the principle that has guided the white man ever -since in his warfare against the aborigines of our -country. I cannot believe that we shall ever be a -happy and prosperous people, until the King of -Kings shall have forgiven us for having, with a yoke -of tyranny, almost annihilated a hundred nations.</p> -<p class="tb">A portion of this afternoon I whiled away on -a little island, which attracted my attention by -its charming variety of foliage. It is not more -than one hundred feet across at the widest part, -<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span> -and is encircled by a yellow sand-bank, and -shielded by a regiment of variegated rocks. But -what could I find there to interest me, it may -be inquired. My answer is this. That island, -hidden in one of the bays of Horicon, is an Insect -city, and more populous than was Rome in the days -of her glory. There the honey-bee has his oaken -tower, the wasp and humble-bee their grassy nests, -the spider his den, the butterfly his hammock, -the grasshopper his domain, the beetle and cricket -and hornet their decayed stump, and the toiling -ant her palace of sand. There they were born, -there they flourish and multiply, and there they -die, symbolizing the career and destiny of man. -I was a “distinguished stranger” in that city, and -I must confess that it gratified my ambition to -be welcomed with such manifestations of regard as -the inhabitants thought proper to bestow. My -approach was heralded by the song of a kingly -bee; and when I had thrown myself upon a mossy -bank, multitudes of people gathered round, and, with -their eyes intently fixed upon me, stood still, and -let “expressive silence muse my praise.” To the -“natives” I was emphatically a source of astonishment; -and as I wished to gather instruction from -the event, I wondered in my heart whether I should -be a <i>happier</i> man if my presence in a human city -<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span> -should create a kindred excitement. At any rate, -it would be a “great excitement on a small capital.”</p> -<p class="tb">While quietly eating my dinner this noon in -the shady recess of an island near Black Mountain, -I was startled by the yell of a pack of hounds -coming down one of its ravines. I knew that -the chase was after a deer, so I waited in breathless -anxiety for his appearance. Five minutes had -hardly elapsed before I discovered a noble buck -at bay on the extreme summit of a bluff which -extended into the lake. There were five dogs yelping -about him, but the “antlered monarch” fought -them like a hero. His hoof was the most dangerous -weapon he could wield, and it seemed to -me that the earth actually trembled every time -that he struck at his enemies. Presently, to my -great joy, one of the hounds was killed, and another -so disabled, that he retired from the contest. But -the hunters made their appearance, and I knew -that the scene would soon come to a tragic close. -And when the buck beheld them, I could not but -believe that over his face a “tablet of agonizing -thoughts was traced,” for he fell upon his knees, -then made a sudden wheel, and with a frightful -bound, as a ball passed through his heart, cleared -<span class="pb" id="Page_62">62</span> -the rock and fell into the lake below. The waters -closed over him; and methought that the waves -of Horicon and the leaves of the forest murmured -a requiem above the grave of the wilderness king. -I turned away with a tear in my eye, and partly -resolved that I would never again have a dog for -my friend, or respect the character of a hunter; -but then I looked into the crystal waters of the -lake, and thought of the beam in my own eye, and -stood convicted of a kindred cruelty.</p> -<p class="tb">One of the most singular precipices overlooking -Horicon is about five miles from the outlet, and -known as Rogers’ Slide. It is some four hundred -feet high, and at one point not a fissure or sprig -can be discerned to mar the polished surface of -the rock till it reaches the water. Once on a time, -in the winter, the said Rogers was pursued by a -band of Indians to this spot, where, after throwing -down his knapsack, he carefully retraced the steps -of his snow-shoes for a short distance, and descending -the hill by a circuitous route, continued his -course across the frozen lake. The Indians, on -coming to the jumping-off-place, discovered their -enemy on the icy plain; but when they saw the -neglected knapsack below, and no signs of returning -<span class="pb" id="Page_63">63</span> -footsteps where they stood, they thought the -devil must be in the man, and gave up the pursuit.</p> -<p class="tb">The most famous, and one of the most beautiful -islands in this lake, is Diamond Island, so called, -from the fact that it abounds in crystallized quartz. -It is half a mile in length, but the last place in the -world which would be thought of as the scene -of a battle. It is memorable for the attack made -by the Americans on the British, who had a garrison -there during the Revolution. The American -detachment was commanded by Colonel Brown, and -being elated with his recent triumphs on Lake -Champlain, he resolved to attack Diamond Island. -The battle was bloody, and the British fought -like brave men, “long and well;” the Americans -were defeated, and this misfortune was followed -by the sufferings of a most painful retreat over -the almost impassable mountains between the Lake -and what is now Whitehall. While wandering -about the island, it was a difficult matter for me to -realize, that it had ever resounded with the roar -of cannon, the dismal wail of war, and the shout of -victory. That spot is now covered with woods, -whose shadowy groves are the abode of a thousand -<span class="pb" id="Page_64">64</span> -birds, for ever singing a song of peace or love, as if -to condemn the ambition and cruelty of man.</p> -<p class="tb">In the vicinity of French Mountain is an island -celebrated as the burial place of a rattle-snake -hunter, named Belden. From all that I can learn, -he must have been a strange mortal indeed. His -birth-place and early history were alike unknown. -When he first made his appearance at this Lake, -his only companions were a brotherhood of rattle-snakes, -by exhibiting which he professed to have -obtained his living; and it is said that, during -the remainder of his life, he acquired a handsome -sum of money by selling the oil and gall of his -favourite reptile. And I have recently been told, -that the present market-price of a fat snake, when -dead, is not less than half a dollar. Another mode -peculiar to old Belden for making money, was to -suffer himself to be bitten, at some tavern, after -which he would return to his cabin to apply the -remedy, when he would come forth again just as good -as new. But he was not always to be a solemn trifler. -For a week had the old man been missing, and on a -pleasant August morning, his body was found on -the island alluded to, sadly mutilated and bloated, -and it was certain that he had died actually surrounded -<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span> -by rattlesnakes. His death-bed became -his grave, and rattlesnakes were his only watchers,—and -thus endeth the story of his life.</p> -<p>But this reminds me of two little adventures. -The other day, as I was seated near the edge of -a sand bar, near the mouth of a brook, sketching a -group of trees and the sunset clouds beyond, I -was startled by an immense black snake, that -landed at my side, and pursued its way directly -under my legs, upon which my drawing-book -was resting. Owing to my perfect silence, the -creature had probably looked upon me as a mere -stump. But what was my surprise, a few moments -after, when reseated in the same place, to find -another snake, and that a large spotted adder, -passing along the same track the former had pursued. -The first fright had almost disabled me -from using the pencil, but when the second came, -I gave a lusty yell, and forgetful of the fine arts, -started for home on the keen run.</p> -<p>At another time, when returning from a fishing -excursion, in a boat, accompanied by a couple of -“greenhorns,” we discovered on the water, near -Tongue Mountain, an immense rattlesnake, with -his head turned towards us. As the oarsman in -the bow of the boat struck at him with his oar, the -snake coiled round it, and the fool was in the very -<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span> -act of dropping the devilish thing in my lap at the -stern of the boat. I had heard the creature rattle, -and not knowing what I did, as he hung suspended -over me, overboard I went, and did not look behind -till I had reached the land. The consequence was, -that for one while I was perfectly disgusted even -with Lake Horicon, and resolved to leave it without -delay. The snake was killed without doing any -harm, however; but such a blowing up as I gave -the man actually made his hair stand straight with -fear.</p> -<p>One more snake story and I’ll conclude. On the -north side of Black Mountain is a cluster of some -half-dozen houses, in a vale, which spot is called the -Bosom, but from what cause I do not know. The -presiding geniuses of the place are a band of girls, -weighing two hundred pounds a piece, who farm -it with their fathers for a living, but whose principal -amusement is rattlesnake hunting. Their -favourite playground is the notorious cliff on Tongue -Mountain, where they go with naked feet (rowing -their own boats across the Lake), and pull out -by their tails from the rocks the pretty playthings, -and, snapping them to death, they lay them away -in a basket as trophies of their skill. I was told -that in one day last year they killed the incredible -number of eleven hundred. What delicious wives -<span class="pb" id="Page_67">67</span> -would these Horicon ladies make! Since the -Florida Indians have been driven from their country -by bloodhounds, would it not be a good idea for -Congress to secure the services of these amazons -for the purpose of exterminating the rattlesnakes -upon our mountains. This latter movement would -be the most ridiculous; but the inhumanity of the -former is without a parallel.</p> -<p class="tb">A clear and tranquil summer night, and I am -alone on the pebbly beach of this paragon of Lakes. -The countless hosts of heaven are beaming upon me -with a silent joy, and more impressive and holy -than a poet’s dream are the surrounding mountains, -as they stand reflected in the unruffled waters. -Listen! what sound is that, so like the wail of a -spirit? Only a loon, the lonely night-washer of -Horicon, whose melancholy moan, as it breaks the -profound stillness, carries my fancy back to the -olden Indian times, ere the white man had crossed -the ocean. All these mountains and this beautiful -Lake were then the heritage of a brave and noble-hearted -people, who made war only upon the denizens -of the forest, whose lives were peaceful as a -dream, and whose manly forms, decorated with the -plumes of the eagle, the feathers of the scarlet bird, -and the robe of the bounding stag, tended but to -<span class="pb" id="Page_68">68</span> -make the scenery of the wilderness beautiful as an -earthly Eden. Here was the quiet wigwam village, -and there the secluded abode of the thoughtful -chief. Here, unmolested, the Indian child played -with the spotted fawn, and the “Indian lover wooed -his dusky mate;” here the Indian hunter, in the -“sunset of his life,” watched, with holy awe, the -sunset in the west, and here the ancient Indian -prophetess sung her uncouth but religious chant. -Gone—all, all gone—and the desolate creature of -the waves, now pealing forth another wail, seems -the only memorial that they have left behind. -There—my recent aspirations are all quelled, I can -walk no farther to-night; there is sadness in my -soul, and I must seek my home. It is such a -blessed night, that it seems almost sinful that a -blight should rest upon the spirit of man; yet on -mine a gloom will sometimes fall, nor can I tell -from whence the cloud that makes me wretched.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_69">69</div> -<h2 id="c5">CHAPTER V.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Scaroon Country—Scaroon Lake—Pike Fishing by Torch-light—Trout -Fishing—Lyndsey’s Tavern—Paradox Lake.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Lyndsey’s Tavern. June.</span></p> -<p>Emptying into the Hudson River, about fifteen -miles north of Glen’s Falls, is quite a large stream, -sometimes called the East Branch of the Hudson, -but generally known as Scaroon River.<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> -Its extreme length is not far from fifty miles. It is a clear, cold, -and rapid stream, winds through a mountainous -country, and has rather a deep channel. The valley -through which it runs is somewhat cultivated, but -the mountains, which frown upon it on either side, -are covered with dense forests. The valley of the -Scaroon abounds in beautiful lakes and brooks; and -as I have explored them pretty thoroughly during -<span class="pb" id="Page_70">70</span> -the past week, I will now record the result of my -observations.</p> -<p>The most prominent pictorial features of this -region is Scaroon Lake, through which the river -of that name forms a channel. It is ten miles in -length, and averages about one in width. Excepting -a little hamlet at its head, and two or three farms -at the southern extremity, it is yet surrounded with -a wilderness of mountains. The waters thereof are -deep and clear, and well supplied with fish, of -which the salmon-trout and pike are the most -valuable. The trout are more abundant here than -in Lake George, but owing to the prevailing custom -of spearing them in the autumn, they are -rapidly becoming extinct. I made a desperate effort -to capture one as a specimen, but without success, -though I was told that they varied in weight from -ten to fifteen pounds. My efforts, however, in taking -pike were more encouraging. But, before giving -my experience, I must mention an interesting fact -in natural history. Previous to the year 1840, -Scaroon Lake was not known to contain a single -pike, but during that year, some half dozen males -and females were brought from Lake Champlain -and deposited therein, since which time they have -multiplied so rapidly, as to be quite abundant, not -only in Scaroon Lake, but in all the neighbouring -waters. And as they are frequently taken, weighing -<span class="pb" id="Page_71">71</span> -some twenty pounds, the fact seems to be established -that this fish grows rapidly, and is not of slow -growth, as many naturalists have supposed.</p> -<p>But to my pike story. A number of lumbermen -were going out for the purpose of taking pike by -torch-light, and I was fortunate enough to secure a -seat in one of the three flat boats which contained -the fishermen. It was a superb night, and the -lake was without a ripple. Our torches were made -of “fat pine,” as it is here called; and my polite -friends taking it for granted that I was a novice in -the spearing business, they cunningly awarded to -me the dullest spear in their possession, and gave -me the poorest position in the boat. I said nothing -to all this, but inwardly resolved that I would give -them a salutary lesson, if possible. I fished from -nine until twelve o’clock, and then left my friends -to continue the sport. The entire number of pike -taken, as I found out in the morning, was thirteen; -and, as fortune would have it, four of this number -were captured by myself, in spite of my poor spear. -I did not take the largest fish, which weighed -eighteen pounds, but the greatest number, with -which success I was fully satisfied. The effect of -my good luck upon my companions was unexpected, -but gratifying to me; for there was afterwards a -strife between them, as to who should show me the -<span class="pb" id="Page_72">72</span> -most attention in the way of piloting me about the -country. This little adventure taught me the -importance of understanding even the vagabond art -of spearing.</p> -<p>The event of that night, however, which afforded -me the purest enjoyment, was the witnessing of a -moonlight scene, immediately after leaving the Lake -shore, for the inn where I was staying. Before -me, in wild and solemn beauty, lay the southern -portion of the Scaroon, on whose bosom were -gliding the spearmen, holding high above their -heads three huge torches, which threw a spectral -glare, not only upon the water, but upon the -swarthy forms which were watching for their prey. -Just at this moment an immense cloud of fog broke -away, and directly above the summit of the opposite -mountain, the clear full moon made its appearance, -and a thousand fantastic figures, born of the -fog, were pictured in the sky, and appeared extremely -brilliant under the effulgence of the ruling -planet; while the zenith of sky was of a deep blue, -cloudless, but completely spangled with stars. And -what greatly added to the magic of the scene, was -the dismal scream of a loon, which came to my ear -from a remote portion of the Lake which was yet -covered with a heavy fog.</p> -<p>Rising from the western margin of Scaroon Lake, -<span class="pb" id="Page_73">73</span> -is a lofty mountain, which was once painted by -Thomas Cole, and by him named Scaroon Mountain. -There is nothing particularly imposing about -it, but it commands an uncommonly fine prospect of -the surrounding country. When I first came in -sight of this mountain, it struck me as an old -acquaintance, and I reined in my horse for the -purpose of investigating its features. Before I -resumed my course, I concluded that I was standing -on the very spot whence the artist Cole had taken -his original sketch of the scene, by which circumstance -I was convinced of the fidelity of his -pencil.</p> -<p>The largest island in Scaroon Lake lies near -the northern extremity, and studs the water like -an emerald on a field of blue. It was purchased -some years ago by a gentleman of New York, -named Ireland, who has built a summer residence -upon it, for the accommodation of himself and -friends.</p> -<p>Emptying into the Scaroon river, just below the -Lake, is a superb mountain stream, known as -Trout Brook. It is thirty feet wide, twelve miles -long, and comes rushing down the mountains, -forming a thousand waterfalls and pools, and filling -its narrow valley with a continual roar of music. -<span class="pb" id="Page_74">74</span> -Not only is it distinguished for the quality and -number of its trout, but it possesses one attraction -which will pay the tourist for the weary tramp he -must undergo to explore its remote recesses. I -allude to what the people about here call the “Stone -Bridge.” At this point, the wild and dashing -stream has formed a channel directly through the -solid mountains; so that in fishing down, the -angler suddenly finds himself standing upon a pile -of dry stones. The extent of this natural bridge is -not more than twenty, or perhaps thirty feet; but -the wonder is, that the unseen channel is sufficiently -large to admit the passage of the largest logs, which -the lumbermen float down the stream.</p> -<p>I might also add, that at the foot of this bridge -is one of the finest pools imaginable. It is, perhaps, -one hundred feet long; and so very deep, -that the clear water appears quite black. This is -the finest spot in the whole brook for trout; and -my luck there may be described as follows: I had -basketed no less than nine half-pounders, when my -fly was suddenly seized, and my snell snapped in -twain by the fierceness of his leaps. The consequence -of that defeat was, that I resolved to capture -the trout, if I had to remain there all night. I -then ransacked the mountain-side for a living bait, -<span class="pb" id="Page_75">75</span> -and with the aid of my companion, succeeded in -capturing a small mouse, and just as the twilight -was coming on, I tied the little fellow to my hook, -and threw him on the water. He swam out in -fine style; but when he reached the centre of the -pool, a large trout leaped completely out of his -element, and in descending, seized the mouse. -The result was, that I broke my rod, but caught the -trout; and though the mouse was seriously injured, -I had the pleasure of again giving him his liberty.</p> -<p>The largest trout that I killed weighed nearly -a pound; and though he was the cause of my -receiving a ducking, he afforded me some sport, -and gave me a new idea. When I first hooked -him, I stood on the very margin of the stream, -knee deep in a bog; and just as I was about to -basket him, he gave a sudden leap, cleared himself, -and fell into the water. Quick as thought, I made -an effort to rescue him; but in doing so, lost my -balance, and was playing the part of a turtle in -a tub of water. I then became poetical, and -thought it “would never do to give it up so;” and -after waiting some fifteen minutes, I returned, and -tried for the lost trout again. I threw my fly some -twenty feet above the place where I had tumbled in, -and recaptured the identical trout which I had lost. -<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span> -I recognized him by his having a torn and bleeding -mouth.</p> -<p>This circumstance convinced me that trout, like -many of the sons of men, have short memories, and -also that the individual in question was a perfect -Richelieu or General Taylor in his way, for he -seemed to know no such word as fail. As to the -trout that I did not capture, I verily believe that -he must have weighed two pounds; but as he was -probably a superstitious gentleman, he thought it -the better part of valour, somewhat like Santa Anna, -to treat the steel of his enemy with contempt.</p> -<p>The brook of which I have been speaking, is only -twenty-five miles from Lake Horicon, and unquestionably -one of the best streams for the angler in -the Scaroon Valley. The Trout Brook Pavilion, at -the mouth of it, kept by one Lockwood, is a comfortable -inn; and his right-hand man, named Kipp, -is a very fine fellow, and a perfect angler.</p> -<p>Speaking of the above friends, reminds me of -another, a fine man, named Lyndsey, who keeps -a tavern, about ten miles north of Scaroon Lake. -His dwelling is delightfully situated in the centre of -a deep valley, and is a nice and convenient place to -stop at for those who are fond of fishing, and -admire romantic scenery. His family, including -<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span> -his wife, two daughters and one son, not only -know how to make their friends comfortable, but -they seem to have a passion for doing kind -deeds.</p> -<p>During my stay at this place, I had the pleasure -of witnessing a most interesting game, which seems -to be peculiar to this part of the country. It was -played with the common ball, and by one hundred -sturdy farmers. Previous to the time alluded to, -fifty Scaroon players had challenged an equal number -of players from a neighbouring village, named -Moriah. The conditions were, that the defeated -party should pay for a dinner, to be given by my -friend Lyndsey. They commenced playing at nine -o’clock, and the game was ended in about three -hours, the Scaroon party having won by about ten -counts in five hundred. The majority of the players -varied from thirty to thirty-five years of age, though -some of the most expert of them were verging upon -sixty years. They played with the impetuosity of -school-boys; and there were some admirable feats -performed in the way of knocking and catching the -ball. Some of the men could number their acres -by thousands, and all of them were accustomed to -severe labour, and yet they thought it absolutely -necessary to participate occasionally in this manly -<span class="pb" id="Page_78">78</span> -and fatiguing sport. The dinner passed off in fine -style, and was spiced by many agricultural anecdotes; -and as the sun was setting, the parties -separated in the best of spirits, and returned to their -several homes.</p> -<p>For fear that I should forget my duty, I would -now introduce to my reader, a sheet of water -embosomed among these mountains, which glories -in the name of Lake Paradox. How it came by -that queer title, I was not able to learn; but this I -know, that it is one of the most beautiful lakes -I have ever seen. It is five miles long, and surrounded -with uncultivated mountains, excepting at -its foot, where opens a beautiful plain, highly cultivated, -and dotted with a variety of rude but -exceedingly comfortable farm-houses. The shores -of Lake Paradox are rocky, the water deep and -clear, abounding in fish, and the lines of -the mountains are picturesque to an uncommon -degree.</p> -<p>But it is time that I should turn from particulars -to a general description of the Scaroon Country. -Though this is an agricultural region, the two -principal articles of export are lumber and iron. -Of the former, the principal varieties are pine, -hemlock, and spruce; and the two establishments -<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span> -for the manufacture of iron are abundantly supplied -with ore from the surrounding mountains. Potatoes -of the finest quality flourish here, also wheat and -corn. The people are mostly Americans, intelligent, -virtuous and industrious, and are as comfortable -and happy as any in the State.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_80">80</div> -<h2 id="c6">CHAPTER VI.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Adirondac Mountains—Trout Fishing in the Boreas River—A -night in the woods—Moose Lake—Lake Delia—Mount Tahawas—Lakes -Sanford and Henderson—The McIntyre Iron -Works.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">John Cheney’s Cabin. June.</span></p> -<p>The Adirondac Mountains are situated on the -extreme head waters of the Hudson, in the Counties -of Essex and Hamilton, and about forty miles west -of Lake Champlain. They vary from five hundred -to five thousand feet in height, and with few exceptions -are covered with dense forests. They lord it -over the most extensive wilderness region in the -Empire State; and as I have recently performed a -pilgrimage among them, I now purpose to give an -account of what I saw and heard during my expedition.</p> -<p>The tourist, who visits these mountains, finds it -<span class="pb" id="Page_81">81</span> -necessary to leave the mail road near Lyndsey’s -Tavern on the Scaroon. If fortune smiles upon him, -he will be able to hire a horse to take him in the -interior, or perhaps obtain a seat in a lumber -wagon; but if not, he must try the mettle of his -legs. With regard to my own case, fortune was -non-committal; for, while she compelled me to go -on foot, she supplied me with a pair of temporary -companions, who were going into the interior to see -their friends, and have a few days’ sport in the way -of fishing and hunting.</p> -<p>One of my friends, (both of whom were young -men), was a farmer, who carried a rifle, and the -other a travelling country musician, who earned a -fiddle. Our first day’s tramp took us about fifteen -miles, through a hilly, thickly wooded, and houseless -wilderness, to the Boreas River, where we -found a ruined log shantee, in which we determined -to spend the night. We reached this lonely spot at -three o’clock in the afternoon; and having previously -been told that the Boreas was famous for -trout, two of us started after a mess of fish, while -the fiddler was appointed to the office of wood chopper -to the expedition.</p> -<p>The Boreas at this point is about one hundred -feet broad, winds through a woody valley, and is -cold, rapid and clear. The entire river does not -<span class="pb" id="Page_82">82</span> -differ materially, as I understand from the point -alluded to, for it waters an unknown wilderness. -I bribed my farmer friend to <i>ascend</i> the river, and -having pocketed a variety of flies, I started down -the stream. I proceeded near half a mile, when -I came to a still-water pool, which seemed to be -extensive and very deep. At the head of it, midway -in the stream, was an immense boulder, which I -succeeded in surmounting, and whence I threw a -red hackle for upwards of three hours. I never saw -trout jump more beautifully, and it was my rare -luck to basket thirty-four, twenty-one of which -averaged three quarters of a pound, and the remaining -thirteen were regular two-pounders. Satisfied -with my luck, I returned to the shantee, where I -found my companions, one of them sitting before a -blazing fire and fiddling, and the other busily employed -in cleaning the trout he had taken.</p> -<p>In due time followed the principal event of the -day, which consisted in cooking and eating a wilderness -supper. We had brought a supply of pork and -bread, and each one having prepared for himself a -pair of wooden forks, we proceeded to roast our -trout and pork before a huge fire, using the drippings -of the latter for seasoning, and a leather cup -of water for our beverage. We spent the two following -hours in smoking and telling stories; and having -<span class="pb" id="Page_83">83</span> -made a bed of spruce boughs, and repaired the -rickety partition which divided one end of the cabin -from the other end, which was all open, we retired -to repose. We had no blankets with us, and an -agreement was, therefore, entered into that we should -take turns in replenishing the fire, during the -night. An awfully dark cloud settled upon the -wilderness, and by the music of the wind among -the hemlock trees we were soon lulled into a deep -slumber.</p> -<p>A short time after midnight, while dreaming of a -certain pair of eyes in the upper part of Broadway, -I was awakened by a footstep on the outside of the -cabin. I brushed open my eyes, but could see -nothing but the faint glimmer of an expiring ember -on the hearth. I held my breath and listened for -the mysterious footsteps; I heard it not, but something -a little more exciting,—the scratching of a -huge paw upon our slender door. In an exceedingly -short time I roused my bed-fellows, and told -them what I had heard. They thought it must be -a wolf, and as we were afraid to frighten him away, -yet anxious to take his hide, it was resolved that I -should hold a match, and the farmer should fire -his rifle in the direction of the mysterious noise, -which operation was duly performed. A large pine -<span class="pb" id="Page_84">84</span> -torch was then lighted, the rifle reloaded, and the -heroes of the adventure marched into the outer hall -of the cabin, where we found a few drops of blood, -and the muddy tracks of what we supposed to be a -wild cat. The rifleman and myself then commissioned -the fiddler to make a fire, when we again -threw ourselves upon the hemlock couch.</p> -<p>The fiddler attended faithfully to his duty, and -in less than twenty minutes he had kindled a tremendous -blaze. The brilliant and laughing flame -had such an exhilarating influence upon his nerves, -that he seized his instrument and commenced -playing, partly for the purpose of keeping off the -wild animals, but mostly for his own amusement. -Then laying aside his fiddle, he began to sing a -variety of uncouth as well as plaintive songs, one of -which was vague but mournful in sentiment, and -more wild in melody, as I thought at the time, than -anything I had ever before heard. I could not find -out by whom it was written, or what was its exact -import, but in the lonely place where we were -sleeping, and at that hour, it made a very deep -impression on my mind. The burthen of the song -was as follows, and was in keeping with the picture -which the minstrel, the fire-light, and the rude -cabin presented.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_85">85</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“We parted in silence, we parted at night,</p> -<p class="t0">On the banks of that lonely river;</p> -<p class="t0">Where the shadowy trees their boughs unite</p> -<p class="t0">We met, and we parted for ever;—</p> -<p class="t0">The night bird sang, and the stars above</p> -<p class="t0">Told many a touching story,</p> -<p class="t0">Of friends long passed to the mansions of rest,</p> -<p class="t0">Where the soul wears her mantle of glory.</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“We parted in silence, our cheeks were wet</p> -<p class="t0">By the tears that were past controlling;—</p> -<p class="t0">We vowed we would never, no never forget,</p> -<p class="t0">And those vows at the time were consoling;—</p> -<p class="t0">But the lips that echoed my vows</p> -<p class="t0">Are as cold as that lonely river,</p> -<p class="t0">The sparkling eye, the spirit’s shrine</p> -<p class="t0">Has shrouded its fire for ever.</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“And now on the midnight sky I look,</p> -<p class="t0">My eyes grow full with weeping,—</p> -<p class="t0">Each star to me is a sealed book</p> -<p class="t0">Some tale of that loved one keeping.</p> -<p class="t0">We parted in silence, we parted in tears</p> -<p class="t0">On the banks of that lonely river,</p> -<p class="t0">But the odour and bloom of by-gone years</p> -<p class="t0">Shall hang o’er its waters for ever.”</p> -</div> -<p>But sleep, the “dear mother of fresh thoughts -and joyous health” soon folded the singer and his -listeners in her embrace, and with the rising sun -we entered upon the labours of another day. -While the fiddler prepared our breakfast, (out of -the few trout which certain <i>beastly</i> robbers had not -stolen during the night), the rifleman went out and -<span class="pb" id="Page_86">86</span> -killed a large hare, and I took a sketch of the -cabin where we had lodged.</p> -<p>After breakfast we shouldered our knapsacks and -started for the Hudson. We struck this noble river -at the embryo city of Tahawas where we found a log -house and an unfinished saw-mill. Here we also -discovered a canoe which we boarded, and navigated -the stream to Lake Sanford. This portion of the -Hudson is not more than one hundred feet broad, -but quite deep and picturesque. On leaving our -canoe we made our way up a mountain road, and -after walking about four miles, came out upon an -elevated clearing of some two hundred acres, in the -centre of which was a solitary log cabin with a retinue -of out-houses,—and this was the famous Newcomb -Farm.</p> -<p>The attractions of this spot are manifold, for it -lies in the vicinity of Moose Lake and Lake Delia, -and commands the finest distant prospect of the -Adirondac Mountains, which has yet been discovered.</p> -<p>Moose Lake lies at the west of the Farm, and -about six miles distant. It is embosomed among -mountains, and the fountain head of the Cold -River, which empties into the St. Lawrence. In -form it is so nearly round, that its entire shore may -be seen at one view; the bottom is covered with -<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span> -white sand, and the water is perfectly cold and -clear. Considering its size, it is said to contain -more trout than any lake in this wilderness; and it -is also celebrated as a watering-place for deer and -moose. In fishing from the shore, one of our party -caught no less than forty pounds of trout in about -two hours. There were two varieties, and they -varied from one to three pounds in weight.</p> -<p>Our guide to this lake, where we encamped for -one night, was Steuben Hewitt, the keeper of -the Newcomb Farm, who is a hunter. This -woodsman got the notion into his head, that he -must have a venison steak for his banquet. We -had already seen some half dozen deer walking -along the opposite margin of the lake, but Steuben -told us that he would wait until after dark to capture -his game. He also told us that the deer were -in the habit of visiting the wilder lakes of this -region at night, for the purpose of escaping the -tormenting flies; and as he spoke so confidently of -what he intended to accomplish, we awaited his -effort with a degree of anxiety.</p> -<p>Soon as the quiet night had fairly set in, he -shipped himself on board a wooden canoe (a rickety -affair, originally bequeathed to this lake by some -departed Indian,) in the bow of which was a fire-jack -or torch-holder. Separating this machine -<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span> -from himself, as he sat in the centre of the canoe, -was a kind of screen made of bark, which was sufficiently -elevated to allow him to fire his gun from -underneath; and in this manner, with a loaded -rifle by his side, did he paddle into the lake. After -floating upon the water for one hour, in perfect -silence, he finally heard a splashing near the shore, -and immediately lighting his torch, he noiselessly -proceeded in the direction of the sound, where he -discovered a beautiful deer standing knee-deep in -the water, and looking at him in stupified wonder. -The poor creature could see nothing before it but -the mysterious light, and while standing in the -most interesting attitude imaginable, the hunter -raised his rifle and shot it through the heart. In -half an hour from that time the carcass of the deer -was hanging from a dry limb near our camp fire, -and I was lecturing the hard-hearted hunter on the -cruelty of thus capturing the innocent creatures of -the forest. To all my remarks, however, he replied, -“They were given to us for food, and it matters not -how we kill them.”</p> -<p>Lake Delia, through which you have to pass in -going to Moose Lake, lies about two miles west of -the Newcomb Farm. It is four miles long, and -less than one mile in width, and completely surrounded -with wood-crowned hills. Near the central -<span class="pb" id="Page_89">89</span> -portion this lake is quite narrow, and so shallow -that a rude bridge has been thrown across for the -accommodation of the farm people. The water -under this bridge is only about four feet deep, and -this was the only spot in the lake where I followed -my favorite recreation. I visited it on one occasion -with my companions, late in the afternoon, when -the wind was blowing, and we enjoyed rare sport in -angling for salmon-trout, as well as a large species -of the common trout. I do not know the number -that we took, but I well remember that we had -more than we could conveniently carry. Usually, -the salmon-trout are only taken in deep water, but -in this and Moose Lake, they seem to be as much at -home in shallow as in deep water.</p> -<p>On one occasion I visited Lake Delia alone, at -an early hour of the morning. It so happened, -that I took a rifle along with me, and while quietly -throwing my fly on the old bridge, I had an opportunity -of using the gun to some purpose. My -movements in that lonely place were so exceedingly -still, that even the wild animals were not disturbed -by my presence; for while I stood there, a large -fat otter made his appearance, and when he came -within shooting distance, I gave him the contents -of my gun, and he disappeared. I related the -adventure to my companions on my return to the -<span class="pb" id="Page_90">90</span> -Farm, but they pronounced it a “fish story.” -I finally vindicated my veracity, however, for, on -the following day, they discovered a dead otter on -the lake shore, and concluded that I had told the -truth.</p> -<p>I must not conclude this chapter without giving -my reader an additional paragraph about the Newcomb -Farm. My friend Steuben Hewitt’s nearest -neighbour is eight miles off, and as his family is -small, you may suppose that he leads a retired life. -One of the days that I spent at his house, was -an eventful one with him, for a town election was -held there. The electors met at nine o’clock, and -the poll closed at five; and as the number of votes -polled was <span class="small">SEVEN</span>, it may well be supposed that the -excitement was intense.</p> -<p>But, with all its loneliness, the Newcomb Farm -is well worth visiting, if for no other purpose than -to witness the panorama of mountains which it -commands. On every side but one, they may be -seen fading away to mingle their deep blue with the -lighter hue of the sky; but chief among them all is -old Tahawas, king of the Adirondacs.</p> -<p>The country out of which this mountain rises is -an imposing Alpine wilderness; and as it has long -since been abandoned by the red man, the solitude -of its deep valleys and lonely lakes, for the most -<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span> -part, is now more impressive than that of the far-off -Rocky Mountains.</p> -<p>The meaning of the Indian word Tahawas, is <i>Sky -Piercer</i>, or <i>Sky Splitter</i>, and faithfully describes the -appearance of the mountain. Its actual elevation, -above the level of the sea, is five thousand four -hundred and sixty-seven feet, while that of Mount -Washington, in New Hampshire, is only six thousand -two hundred and thirty-four; making a difference -of only seven hundred and sixty-seven feet -in favour of Washington. Though Tahawas is not -so lofty as its New England brother, yet its form -is by far the most picturesque and imposing. Taken -together, they are the highest pair of mountains in -the United States.</p> -<p>Before going one step farther, I must allude to -what I deem the folly of a certain state geologist, in -attempting to name the prominent peaks of the -Adirondac Mountains after a brotherhood of living -men. If he is to have his way in this matter, the -beautiful name of Tahawas will be superseded by -that of Marcy, and several of Tahawas’ peers are -hereafter to be known as Mounts Seward, Wright, -and Young. Now if this business is not supremely -ridiculous, I must confess that I do not know the -meaning of that word. A pretty idea, indeed, to -scatter to the winds the ancient poetry of the poor -<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span> -Indian, and perpetuate in its place the names of -living politicians. For my part, I agree most -decidedly with the older inhabitants of the Adirondac -wilderness, who look with perfect indifference -upon the attempted usurpation of the geologist -already mentioned.</p> -<p>For nine months in the year, old Tahawas is -covered with a crown of snow, but there are spots -among its fastnesses where you may gather ice and -snow, even in the dog-days. The base of this -mountain is covered with a luxuriant forest of pine, -spruce and hemlock, while the summit is clothed -in a net-work of creeping trees, and almost entirely -destitute of the green which should characterize -them. In ascending its sides, when near the -summit, you are impressed with the idea that your -pathway may be smooth; but as you proceed, you are -constantly annoyed by pit-falls, into which your -legs are foolishly poking themselves, to the great -annoyance of your back-bone, and other portions of -your body, which are naturally straight.</p> -<p>I ascended Tahawas, as a matter of course, and in -making the trip I travelled some twenty miles, on -foot and through the pathless woods, employing for -the same the better part of two days. My companion -on this expedition was John Cheney (of -whom I have something to write hereafter), and as -<span class="pb" id="Page_93">93</span> -he did not consider it prudent to spend the night -on the summit, we only spent about one hour -gazing upon the panorama from the top, and then -descended about half way down the mountain, -where we built our watch-fire. The view from -Tahawas is rather unique. It looks down upon -what appears to be an uninhabited wilderness, with -mountains fading to the sky in every direction, -and where, on a clear day, you may count no -less than twenty-four lakes, including Champlain, -Horicon, Long Lake, and Lake Pleasant.</p> -<p>While trying to go to sleep on the night in question, -as I lay by the side of my friend Cheney, he -gave me an account of the manner in which certain -distinguished gentlemen had ascended Mount Tahawas, -for it must be known that he officiates as the -guide of all travellers in this wild region. Among -those to whom he alluded, were Ingham and Cole, -the artists, and Hoffman and Headley, the travellers. -He told me that Mr. Ingham fainted a -number of times in making the ascent, but became -so excited with all that he saw, he determined to -persevere, and finally succeeded in accomplishing -the difficult task. Mr. Hoffman, he said, in spite -of his lameness, would not be persuaded by words -that he could not reach the summit; and when he -finally discovered that the task was utterly beyond -<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span> -his accomplishment, his disappointment seemed to -have no bounds.</p> -<p>The night that I spent on Tahawas was not distinguished -by any event more remarkable than a -regular rain-storm. Our canopy was composed -of hemlock branches, and our only covering was a -blanket. The storm did not set in until about midnight, -and my first intimation of its approach was -the falling of rain-drops directly into my ear, as I -snugged up to my bed-fellow, for the purpose of -keeping warm. Desperate indeed were the efforts -I made to forget my condition in sleep, as the -rain fell more abundantly, and drenched me, as -well as my companion, to the very skin. The -thunder bellowed as if in the enjoyment of a very -happy frolic, and the lightning seemed determined -to root up a few trees in our immediate vicinity, -as if for the purpose of giving us more room. -Finally Cheney rose from his pillow (which was a -log of wood), and proposed that we should quaff -a little brandy, to keep us from catching cold, -which we did, and then made another attempt to -reach the land of Nod.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>At the break of day, we were awakened from -a short but refreshing sleep by the singing of -birds; and when the cheerful sunlight had reached -<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span> -the bottom of the ravines, we were enjoying -a comfortable breakfast in the cabin of my -friend.</p> -<p>The principal attractions, associated with Tahawas -are the Indian Pass, the Adirondac Lakes, the -Adirondac Iron Works, and the mighty hunter of -the Adirondacs, John Cheney. The Pass, so called, -is only an old-fashioned notch between the mountains. -On one side is a perpendicular precipice, -rising to the height of eleven hundred feet; and, -on the other, a wood-covered mountain, ascending -far up into the sky, at an angle of forty-five -degrees. Through this Pass flows a tiny rivulet, -over which the rocks are so thickly piled, as frequently -to form pitfalls, that measure from ten -to thirty feet in depth. Some of these holes are -never destitute of ice, and are cool and comfortable -even at midsummer. The Pass is nearly half a -mile in length, and, at one point, certain immense -boulders have come together and formed a cavern, -which is called the “meeting house,” and is, perhaps, -capable of containing a thousand people. The -rock on either side of the Pass, is a grey granite, and -its only inhabitants are eagles, which are very -abundant, and occupy the most conspicuous crag in -the notch.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_96">96</div> -<p>The two principal lakes which gem the Adirondac -wilderness are named Sanford and Henderson, after -the two gentlemen who first purchased land upon -their borders. The former is five miles in length, -and the latter somewhat less than three, both of -them varying in width from half a mile to a mile -and a half. The mountains which swoop down to -their bosoms are covered with forest, and abound in -a great variety of large game. There is not, to my -knowledge, a single habitation on either of the lakes, -and the only smoke ever seen to ascend from their -lonely recesses, comes from the watch-fire of the -hunter, or the encampment of surveyors and -tourists. The water of these lakes is cold and -deep, and moderately supplied with salmon trout. -Lake Henderson is admirably situated for the -exciting sport of deer-hunting, and though it contains -two or three canoes, cannot be entered from -the West Branch of the Hudson without making -a portage.</p> -<p>Through Lake Sanford, however, the Hudson -takes a direct course, and there is nothing -to impede the passage of a small boat to within -a mile of the Iron Works, which are situated -in a valley between the two lakes. The fact -is, during the summer, there is an extensive -<span class="pb" id="Page_97">97</span> -business done on Lake Sanford, in the way of -“bringing in” merchandize, and “carrying out” -the produce of the Forge. It was my misfortune -to make the inward passage of the Lake -in company with two ignorant Irishmen. Their -boat was small, heavily laden, very old and -leaky. This was my only chance, and on -taking my seat with a palpitating heart, I made -an express bargain with the men that they should -keep along the shore on their way up. They -assented to my wishes, but immediately pulled for -the very centre of the lake. I remonstrated, but -they told me there was no danger. The boat was -now rapidly filling with water, and though one -was bailing with all his might, the rascals were -determined not to accede to my wishes. The conclusion -of the matter was, that our shallop became -water-logged; and on finally going ashore, the merchandize -was greatly damaged, and I was just -about as wet as I was angry at the miserable -creatures, whose obstinacy had not only greatly -injured their employers, but also endangered my -own plunder as well as my life.</p> -<p>The Iron Works alluded to above are located in a -narrow valley, and in the immediate vicinity of -Lake Henderson at a place called McIntyre. -<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span> -Sometime in the year 1830, a couple of Scotch -gentlemen, named Henderson and McIntyre, purchased -a large tract of wild land lying in this -portion of New York. In the summer following, -they passed through this wilderness on an exploring -expedition, and, with the assistance of their Indian -guide, discovered that the bed of the valley in question -was literally blocked up with iron ore. On -making farther investigations, they found that the -whole rocky region about them was composed of -valuable mineral, and they subsequently established -a regular built Iron Establishment, which has been -in operation ever since. A gentleman named -Robinson afterwards purchased an interest in the -concern, and it is now carried on by him and -Mr. McIntyre, though the principal stock-holders -are the wife and son of Mr. Henderson, deceased.</p> -<p>The metal manufactured by this company is of -the very best quality of bar-iron; and an establishment -is now in progress of erection at Tahawas, -twelve miles down the river, where a party of English -gentlemen intend to manufacture every variety -of steel. The Iron Works give employment to about -one hundred and fifty men, whose wages vary from -one dollar to four dollars per day. The society of -<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span> -the place, you may well imagine, is decidedly -original; but the prominent individual, and only -remarkable man who resides here, is John Cheney, -the mighty hunter of the Adirondacs. For an -account of this man, the reader will please look into -the following chapter.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_100">100</div> -<h2 id="c7">CHAPTER VII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">John Cheney, the Adirondac hunter, and some of his exploits.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">John Cheney’s Cabin. June.</span></p> -<p>John Cheney was born in New Hampshire, but -spent his boyhood on the shores of Lake Champlain, -and has resided in the Adirondac wilderness about -thirteen years. He has a wife and one child, and -lives in a comfortable cabin in the wild village of -McIntyre. His profession is that of a hunter, and -he is in the habit of spending about one half of -his time in the woods. He is a remarkably amiable -and intelligent man, and as unlike the idea I had -formed of him, as possible. I expected, from all -that I had heard, to see a huge, powerful and hairy -Nimrod; but instead of such, I found him small -in stature, and bearing more the appearance of a -modest and thoughtful student.</p> -<p>The walls of his cosy little house, containing one -<span class="pb" id="Page_101">101</span> -principal room, are ornamented with a large printed -sheet of the Declaration of Independence, and two -engraved portraits of Washington and Jackson. -Of guns and pistols he has an abundant supply, -and also a good stock of all the conveniences for -camping among the mountains. He keeps one -cow, which supplies his family with all the milk -they need; but his favourite animals are a couple of -hunting dogs named Buck and Tiger.</p> -<p>As summer is not the time to accomplish much -in the way of hunting, my adventures with John -Cheney have not been distinguished by any stirring -events; we have, however, enjoyed some rare sport -in the way of fishing, and obtained many glorious -views from the mountain peaks of this region. But -the conversation of this famous Nimrod has interested -me exceedingly, and wherever we might be, -under his own roof, or by the side of our mountain -watch-fires, I have kept him busy in recounting his -former adventures. I copied into my note-book -nearly everything he said, and now present my -readers with a few extracts relating to his hunting -exploits. I shall use his own words as nearly as -I can remember them.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“I was always fond of hunting, and the first animal -I killed was a fox; I was then ten years of age. -<span class="pb" id="Page_102">102</span> -Even from childhood I was so in love with the woods -that I not only neglected school but was constantly -borrowing a gun, or stealing the one belonging to -my father, with which to follow my favourite amusement. -He finally found it a useless business to -make a decent boy of me, and in a fit of desperation -he one day presented me with a common fowling -piece. I was the youngest of thirteen children, and -was always called the black sheep of the family. I -have always enjoyed good health, and am forty-seven -years of age; but I have now passed my prime, and -don’t care about exposing myself to any useless -dangers.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“You ask me if I ever hunt on Sunday: no, -Sir, I do not; I have always been able to kill -enough on week days to give me a comfortable -living. Since I came to live among the Adirondacs, -I have killed <i>six hundred deer</i>, <i>four hundred sable</i>, -<i>nineteen moose</i>, <i>twenty-eight bears</i>, <i>six wolves</i>, <i>seven -wild cats</i>, <i>thirty otter</i>, <i>one panther and one beaver</i>.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“As to that beaver, I was speaking about, it took -me three years to capture him, for he was an old -fellow, and remarkably cunning. He was the last, -from all that I can learn, that was ever taken in the -State. One of the Long Lake Indians often -<span class="pb" id="Page_103">103</span> -attempted to trap him, but without success; he -usually found his trap sprung, but could never get -a morsel of the beaver’s tail; and so it was with -me, too; but I finally fixed a trap <i>under</i> the water, -near the entrance to his dam, and it so happened -that he one day stepped into it and was drowned.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“I was going to tell you something about my -dogs—Buck and Tiger. I’ve raised some fifty of -this animal in my day, but I never owned such a -tormented smart one as that fellow Buck. I believe -there’s a good deal of the English mastiff in him; -but a keener eye than he carries in his head I never -saw. Only look at that breast of his, did you ever -see a thicker or more solid one? He’s handsomely -spotted, as you may see; but some of the devilish -Lake Pleasant Indians cut off his ears and tail about -a year ago, and he now looks rather odd. You may -not believe it, but I have seen a good many men, -who were not half as sensible as that very dog. -Whenever the fellow’s hungry, he always seats himself -at my feet and gives three short barks, which -is his way of telling me that he would like some -bread and meat. If the folks happen to be away -from home, and he feels a little sharp, he pays a -regular visit to all the houses in the village, and -after playing with the children, barks for a dry -<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span> -crust, which he always receives, and then comes -back to his own home. He’s a great favourite -among the children, and I’ve witnessed more than -one fight among the boys, because some wicked -little scamp had thrown a stone at him. When I -speak to him, he understands me just as well as -you do. I can wake him out of a sound sleep, and -by my saying, ‘Buck, go up and kiss the baby,’ he -will march directly to the cradle and lick the baby’s -face. And the way he watches that baby, when -it’s asleep, is perfectly curious; he’d tear you to -pieces in three minutes, if you were to try to take -it away.</p> -<p>“Buck is now four years old, and though he’s -helped me to kill several hundred deer, he never -lost one for me yet. Whenever I go a-hunting, -and don’t want him along, I have only to say, -‘Buck, you must not go,’ and he remains quiet. -There’s no use in chaining him, I tell you, for he -understands his business. This dog never starts -after a deer until I tell him to go, even if the -deer is in sight. Why, ’twas only the other day -that Tiger brought in a doe to Lake Colden, where -the two had a desperate fight within a hundred -yards of the spot where Buck and myself were -seated. I wanted to try the metal of Tiger, and -told Buck he must not stir, though I went up to -<span class="pb" id="Page_105">105</span> -the deer to see what the result would be between -the fighters. Buck didn’t move out of his tracks; -but the way he howled for a little taste of blood -was perfectly awful. I almost thought the fellow -would die in his agony. Buck is of great use to -me when I am off hunting, in more ways than -one. If I happen to be lost in a snow-storm, -which is sometimes the case, I only have to tell -him to go home, and if I follow his track I am -sure to come out in safety; and when sleeping in -the woods at night, I never have any other pillow -than Buck’s body.</p> -<p>“As to my black dog Tiger, he isn’t quite two -years old yet, but he’s going to make a great -hunter. I am trying hard, now-a-days, to break -him of a very foolish habit of killing porcupines. -Not only does he attack every one he sees, but -he goes out to hunt them, and often comes home, -all covered with their quills. It was only the other -day, that he came home with about twenty quills -working their way into his snout. It so happened, -however, that they did not kill him, because he -let me pull them all out with a pair of pincers, -and that, too, without budging an inch. About -the story people tell, that the porcupine <i>throws</i> its -quills, I can tell you it’s no such thing; it’s only -<span class="pb" id="Page_106">106</span> -when the quills touch the dog, that they come -out and work their way through his body.”</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“As to deer hunting, I can tell you more stories -in that line than you’d care about hearing. They -have several ways of killing ’em in this quarter, -and some of these ways are so infernal mean, I’m -surprised that there should be any deer left in -the country. In the first place, there’s the ‘still -hunting’ fashion, where you lay in ambush near -a salt lick and shoot the poor creatures, when -they’re not thinking of you. And there’s the -beastly manner of blinding them with a ‘torch -light’ when they come into the lakes to cool -themselves, and get away from the flies, during -the warm nights of summer. Now I say, that -no decent man will take this advantage of wild -game, unless he is in a starving condition. The -only manly way to kill deer is by ‘driving’ them, -as I do, with a couple of hounds.</p> -<p>“There isn’t a creature in this whole wilderness -that I think so much of as the deer. They are so -beautiful, with their bright eyes, graceful necks, -and sinewy legs. And they are so swift, and -make such splendid leaps when hard pressed; why, -I’ve seen a buck jump from a cliff that was forty -<span class="pb" id="Page_107">107</span> -feet high, and that, too, without injuring a hair. -I wish I could get my living without killing this -beautiful animal! but I must live, and I suppose -they were made to die. The cry of the deer, when -in the agonies of death, is the awfullest sound I -ever heard; I’d a good deal rather hear the scream -of the panther, provided I have a ball in my pistol, -and the pistol is in my hand. I wish they would -never speak so.</p> -<p>“The time for taking deer is in the fall and -winter. It’s a curious fact, that when a deer is -at all frightened, he cannot stand upon smooth ice, -while, at the same time, when not afraid of being -caught, he will not only walk, but actually trot -across a lake, as smooth as glass. It’s a glorious -sight to see them running down the mountains, -with the dogs howling behind; but I don’t think -I ever saw a more beautiful race than I once did -on Lake Henderson, between a buck deer, and my -dog Buck, when the lake was covered with a -light fall of snow. I had put Buck upon a fresh -track, and was waiting for him on the lake shore; -presently, a splendid deer bounded out of the -woods upon the ice, and as the dog was only a -few paces off, he led the race directly across the -lake. Away they ran, as if a hurricane was after -them, crossed the lake, then back again, they then -<span class="pb" id="Page_108">108</span> -made another wheel, and having run to the extreme -southern point of the Lake, again returned, when -the deer’s wind gave out, and the dog caught and -threw the creature, into whose throat I soon -plunged my knife, and the race was ended.</p> -<p>“I never was so badly hurt in hunting any -animal as I have been in hunting deer. It was -while chasing a buck on Cheney’s Lake, (which -was named after me, by Mr. Henderson, in commemoration -of my escape), that I once shot myself -in a very bad way. I was in a canoe, and had -laid my pistol down by my side, when, as I was -pressing hard upon the animal, my pistol slipped -under me in some queer way, and went off, -sending a ball into my leg just above the ankle, -which came out just below the knee. I knew something -terrible had happened, and though I thought -that I might die, I was determined that the deer -should die first; and I did succeed in killing him -before he reached the shore. But soon as the -excitement was over, the pain I had felt before -was increased a thousand fold, and I felt as if -all the devils in h—ll were dragging at my leg, -the weight and the agony were so great. I had -never suffered so before, and I thought it strange. -You may not believe it, but when that accident -happened I was fourteen miles from home, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_109">109</span> -yet, even with that used-up leg, I succeeded in -reaching my home, where I was confined to my -bed from October until April. That was a great -winter for hunting which I missed, but my leg -got entirely well, and is now as good as ever.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“The most savage animal that I hunt for among -these mountains is the moose, or caraboo, as I’ve -heard some people call them. They’re quite plenty -in the region of Long Lake and Lake Pleasant; -and if the hunter don’t understand their ways, he’ll -be likely to get killed before he thinks of his danger. -The moose is the largest animal of the deer kind, -or, in fact, of any kind that we find in this part of -the country. His horns are very large, and usually -look like a pair of crab-apple trees. He has a long -head, long legs, and makes a great noise when he -travels; his flesh is considered first rate, for he -feeds upon grass, and the tender buds of the moose -maple; he is a rapid traveller, and hard to tire out. -In winter they run in herds; and when the snow is -deep, they generally live in one particular place in -the woods, which we call a ‘yard.’ The crack -time for killing them is in the winter, when we can -travel on the snow with our braided snow-shoes.</p> -<p>“I once killed two moose before nine o’clock in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_110">110</span> -morning. I had been out a-hunting for two days, -in the winter, and when night came, I had to camp -out near the foot of Old Tahawas. When I got up -in the morning, and was about to start for home, I -discovered a yard, where lay a couple of bull moose. -I don’t know what they were thinking about, but -just as soon as they saw me, they jumped up and -made directly towards the place where I was standing. -I couldn’t get clear of their ugly feet -without running; so I put for a large dead tree -that had blown over, and walking to the butt of it, -which was some ten feet high, looked down in -safety upon the devils. They seemed to be very -mad about something, and did everything they -could to get at me by running around; and I -remember they ran together, as if they had been -yoked. I waited for a good chance to shoot, and -when I got it, I fired a ball clean through one -of the animals into the shoulder of the second. -The first one dropt dead as a door-nail, but the -other took to his heels, and after going about -fifty rods, concluded to lie down. I then came -up to him, keeping my dogs back, for the purpose -of sticking him, when he jumped up again, and -put after me like lightning. I ran to a big stump, -and after I had fairly fixed myself, I loaded again, -<span class="pb" id="Page_111">111</span> -and again fired, when the fellow tumbled in the -snow quite dead. He was eight feet high, and -a perfect roarer.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“Another animal that we sometimes find pretty -plenty in these woods, is the big grey wolf; they -are savage fellows, and dangerous to meet when -angry. On getting up early one winter morning, -I noticed in the back part of my garden, what I -thought to be a wolf-track. I got my gun, called -for my dog, and started on the hunt. I found the -fellow in his den among the mountains. I kindled -a fire and smoked him out. I then chased him -for about two miles, when he came to bay. He -was a big fellow, and my dogs were afraid to -clinch in; dogs hate a wolf worse than any -other animal. I found I had a fair chance, so -I fired at the creature, but my gun missed fire. -The wolf then attacked me, and in striking him -with my gun, I broke it all to pieces. I was in a -bad fix, I tell you, but I immediately threw myself -on my back with my snow-shoes above me, when -the wolf jumped right on to my body, and probably -would have killed me had it not been for my dog -Buck, who worried the wolf so boldly that the devil -left me to fight the dog. While they were fighting -with all their might, I jumped up, took the barrel -<span class="pb" id="Page_112">112</span> -of my gun and settled it right into the brain of the -savage animal. That was the largest wolf ever -killed in this wilderness.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“One of the hardest fights I ever had in these -woods, was with a black bear. I was coming from -a winter hunt: the snow was very deep, and I had -on my snow-shoes. It so happened, as I was -coming down a certain mountain, the snow suddenly -gave way under me, and I fell into the hole, -or winter-quarters of one of the blackest and largest -bears I ever saw. The fellow was just about as -much frightened as I was, and he scampered out -of the den in a great hurry. I was very tired, and -had only one dog with me at the time, but I put -after him. I had three smart battles with him, and -in one of them he struck my hand with such -force, as to send my gun at least twenty or thirty -feet from where we stood. I finally managed to -kill the rascal, however; but not until he had almost -destroyed the life of my dog. That was a noble -dog, but in that battle the poor fellow received -his death-wound. He couldn’t walk at the time; -and though I was nine miles from home, I took -him up in my arms and brought him; but with -all my nursing, I could not get him up again, for -<span class="pb" id="Page_113">113</span> -he died at the end of a few weeks. That dog was -one of the best friends I ever had.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="gs">* * * * * * * *</span></p> -<p>“But the most dangerous animal in this country, -is the yellow panther, or painter. They are not -very plentiful, and so tormented cunning, that -it’s very seldom you can kill one. They are very -ugly, but don’t often attack a man unless cornered -or wounded. They look and act very much like -a cat, only that they are very large. I never killed -but one, and his body was five feet long, and his -tail between three and four. At night, their eyes -look like balls of fire; and when they are after game, -they make a hissing noise, which is very dreadful -to hear. Their scream is also very terrible; and -I never saw the man who was anxious to hear -it more than once. They are seldom hunted as -a matter of business, but usually killed by accident.</p> -<p>“The panther I once killed, I came across in this -manner. I was out on Lake Henderson with two -men, catching fish through the ice, when we saw -two wolves come on to the ice in great haste, -looking and acting as if they had been pursued. -I proposed to the men that we should all go and -kill them, if we could. They wanted to fish, or -were a little afraid, so I took my gun and started -<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span> -after the game. I followed them some distance, -when, as they were scaling a ledge, they were attacked -by a big panther, and a bloody fight took place. -From the appearance of the animals, I supposed -that they had met before, which was the cause why -the wolves came upon the lake. During the scuffle -between the animals, it is a singular fact, that they -all three tumbled off the precipice, and fell through -the air, about one hundred feet. The wolves -jumped up and ran away, while the panther started -in another direction. I followed his track, and -after travelling a number of hours overtook him, -and managed to shoot him through the shoulder. -He then got into a tree, and as he was lashing -his tail, and getting ready to pounce upon me, I -gave him another ball, and he fell to the earth -with a crash, and was quite dead. I then went to -the Lake, and got the men to help me home with -my booty.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_115">115</div> -<h2 id="c8">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Burlington—Lake Champlain—Distinguished Men.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Burlington. June.</span></p> -<p>Of all the towns which I have ever seen, Burlington -in Vermont is decidedly one of the most -beautiful. It stands on the shore of Lake Champlain, -and from the water to its eastern extremity is -a regular elevation, which rises to the height of -some three hundred feet. Its streets are broad and -regularly laid out, the generality of its buildings -elegant, and its inhabitants well educated, refined, -and wealthy. My visit here is now about to close, -and I cannot but follow the impulses of my heart, -by giving my reader a brief account of its principal -picturesque attraction, and some information concerning -a few of its public men.</p> -<p>As a matter of course, my first subject is Lake -<span class="pb" id="Page_116">116</span> -Champlain. In approaching it from the south, -and particularly from Horicon, one is apt to form a -wrong opinion of its picturesque features; but you -cannot pass through it without being lavish in its -praise. It extends, in a straight line from south to -north, somewhat over a hundred miles, and lies -between the States of Vermont and New York. It -is the gateway between the country on the St. Lawrence -and that on the Hudson, and it is therefore -extensively navigated by vessels and steam-boats. -It is surrounded with flourishing villages, whose -population is generally made up of New Englanders -and Canadians. Its width varies from half a mile -to thirteen, but its waters are muddy, excepting in -the vicinity of Burlington. Its islands are not -numerous, but one of them, Grand Isle, is sufficiently -large to support four villages. Its scenery -may be denominated bold; on the west are the -Adirondac Mountains; and at some distance on the -east, the beautiful Green Mountains, whose glorious -<i>commanders</i> are Mansfield Mountain and the Camel’s -Hump. Owing to the width of the Lake at Burlington, -and the beauty of the western mountains, -the sunsets that are here visible, are exceedingly -superb.</p> -<p>The classic associations of this Lake are uncommonly -interesting. Here are the moss-covered -<span class="pb" id="Page_117">117</span> -ruins of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, whose -present occupants are the snake, the lizard, and -toad. Leaden and iron balls, broken bayonets, and -English flints, have I picked up on their ramparts, -which I cannot look upon without thinking of -death-struggles and the horrible shout of war. -And there too is Plattsburg, in whose waters Commodore -McDonough vindicated the honour of the -Stars and Stripes of Freedom.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p136.jpg" alt="" width="419" height="308" /> -<p class="caption">RUINS OF TICONDEROGA.</p> -</div> -<p>As to the fishing of this Lake, I have but a word -to say. Excepting trout, almost every variety of -fresh-water fish is found here in abundance; but -the water is not pure, which is ever a serious drawback -to my enjoyment in wetting the line. Lake -<span class="pb" id="Page_118">118</span> -Champlain received its present name from a French -nobleman, who discovered it in 1609, and who died -at Quebec in 1635.</p> -<p>The associations I am now to speak of, are of a -personal character; and the first, of the three names -before me, is that of Joseph Torrey, the present -Professor of Moral and Intellectual Philosophy in -the University of Vermont. As a citizen, he is one -of the most amiable and beloved of men. As one -of the faculty of the University, he occupies a high -rank, and is a particular favourite with all his -students. A pleasing evidence of the latter fact I -noticed a few days since, when it was reported -among the students that the Professor had returned -from a visit to the Springs for his health. I was in -company with some half dozen of them at the time, -and these are the remarks they made: “How is -his health?” “I hope he has improved!” “Now -shall I be happy; for ever since he went away, the -recitation-room has been a cheerless place to me.” -“Now shall I be advised as to my essay!” “Now -shall my poem be corrected!” “Now, in my -troubles, shall I have the sympathies of a true -friend!” Much more meaning is contained in -these simple phrases than what meets the eye. -Surely, if any man is to be envied, it is he who -has a place in the affections of all who know him. -<span class="pb" id="Page_119">119</span> -As a scholar, too, Professor Torrey occupies an -exalted station, as will be proved to the world in -due time. He has never published anything but -an occasional article for a review, and the Memoir -of President Marsh, (who was his predecessor in -the University), as contained in the admirable -volume of his Remains, which should occupy a conspicuous -place in the library of every American -scholar and Christian.</p> -<p>The memoir is indeed a rare specimen of that -kind of writing, beautifully written, and pervaded -by a spirit of refinement that is delightful. But -I was mostly interested in Mr. Torrey as a man of -taste in the Fine Arts. In everything but the -mere execution, he is a genuine artist, and long -may I remember the counsels of his experience and -knowledge. A course of Lectures on the Arts forms -a portion of his instruction as Professor; and I -trust that they will eventually be published, for -the benefit of our country. He has also translated, -from the German of Schelling, a most admirable -discourse, entitled “Relation of the Arts of Design -to Nature;” a copy of which ought to be in the -possession of every young artist. Mr. Torrey has -been an extensive traveller in Europe, and being -a lover and an acute observer of everything connected -with literature and art, it is quite a luxury -<span class="pb" id="Page_120">120</span> -to hear him expatiate upon “the wonders he has -seen.”</p> -<p>He also examines everything with the eye of a -philosopher; and his conclusions are ever of practical -utility. Not only can he analyze in a profound -manner the principles of metaphysical learning, but, -with the genuine feelings of a poet, descant upon -the triumphs of poetic genius, or point out the -mind-charms of a Claude or Titian. He is—but -I will not say all that I would, for I fear that at our -next meeting he would chide me for my boyish -personalities. Let me conclude then, reader, with -the advice, that, if you ever chance to meet the -Professor in your travels, you must endeavour to -secure an introduction, which I am sure you cannot -but ever remember with unfeigned pleasure.</p> -<p>John Henry Hopkins, D.D., Bishop of Vermont, -is another of the principal attractions of Burlington. -The history of his life, the expression of his countenance, -and his general deportment, all speak of the -“peace of God.” Considering the number and -diversity of his acquirements, I think him a very -remarkable man. He is not only, in point of -character, well worthy of his exalted station as -Bishop, but as a theologian, learned and eloquent to -an uncommon degree. His contributions to the -world of Letters are of rare value, as he has published -<span class="pb" id="Page_121">121</span> -volumes entitled “Christianity Vindicated,” -“The Primitive Church,” “The Primitive Creed,” -“The Church of Rome,” “British Reformation,” -and “Letters to the Clergy.” His style of writing -is persuasive, vigorous, and clear; and all his -conclusions seem to have been formed in full view -of the Bible, which is a virtue worth noticing in -these degenerate days. It is because of his honesty -and soundness, I suppose, that some of his own -church are disaffected with his straightforward -conduct. Bishop Hopkins, as a divine, is of the -same school with the late Bishop White, and therefore -among the most eminently wise and good of -his age and country.</p> -<p>The Bishop of Vermont is also a man of remarkable -taste with regard to Architecture, Music, and -Painting; in which departments, as an amateur, -he has done himself great credit. Not only did -he plan and superintend the building of an edifice -for his recent school, but has published an interesting -book on Architecture, wherein he appears to be -as much <i>at home</i> as if he were Christopher Wren. -Knowing the market to be full of sentimental nonsense -in the way of songs, he composed, for the benefit -of his own children, a few with a moral tone, which -he also set to music, and are now published as a -worthy tribute to his fine feelings, and the correctness -<span class="pb" id="Page_122">122</span> -of his ear. But he ranks still higher as a man -of taste in the capacity of a Painter. The Vermont -Drawing Book, which he published, is an evidence -of his ability as a draughtsman. The family portraits -which adorn his walls, prove him to have -an accurate eye for colour, and an uncommon knowledge -of effect;—his oil sketches of scenes from -nature, give token of an ardent devotion to nature. -But the best, in my opinion, of all his artistical -productions, is a picture representing “our Saviour -blessing little children.” Its conception, grouping, -and execution, are all of very great merit, and I am -persuaded will one day be looked upon with peculiar -interest by the lovers and judges of art in this -country. Though done in water colours, and considered -by the artist as a mere sketch for a larger -picture, there are some heads in it that would have -called forth a compliment even from the lamented -Allston. Would that he could be influenced to send -it, for exhibition, to our National Academy! And -thus endeth my humble tribute of praise to a gifted -man.</p> -<p>I now come to the Hon. George P. Marsh, of -whom, if I were to follow the bent of my feelings, -I could write a complete volume. Though yet in -the early prime of life, he is a sage in learning -and wisdom. After leaving college, he settled in -<span class="pb" id="Page_123">123</span> -Burlington, where he has since resided, dividing -his time between his legal profession and the -retirement of his study. With a large and liberal -heart, he possesses all the endearing and interesting -qualities which belong to the true and accomplished -gentleman. Like all truly great men, he -is exceedingly retiring and modest in his deportment, -and one of that rare class who can never -be excited by the voice of fame. About two years -ago, almost without his knowledge, he was elected -to a seat in the lower house of Congress, where -he at once began to make an impression as a -Statesman. Though few have been his public -speeches, they are remarkable for sound political -logic, and the classic elegance of their language. -As an orator, he is not showy and passionate, but -plain, forcible, and earnest.</p> -<p>But it is in the walks of private life, that -Mr. Marsh is to be mostly admired. His knowledge -of the Fine Arts is probably more extensive -than that of any other man in this country, -and his critical taste is equal to his knowledge; -but that department peculiarly his hobby, is -Engraving. He has a passion for line engravings; -and it is unquestionably true, that his collection -is the most valuable and extensive in the Union. -He is well acquainted with the history of this -<span class="pb" id="Page_124">124</span> -art from the earliest period, and also with its -various mechanical ramifications. He is as familiar -with the lives and peculiar styles of the Painters -and Engravers of antiquity, as with his household -affairs; and when he talks to you on his favourite -theme, it is not to display his learning, but to -make you realize the exalted attributes and mission -of universal Art.</p> -<p>As an author, Mr. Marsh has done but little -in extent, but enough to secure a seat beside -such men as Edward Everett, with whom he has -been compared. He has published (among his -numerous things of the kind) a pamphlet entitled -“The Goths in New England,” which is a fine -specimen of chaste writing and beautiful thought; -also another on the “History of the Mechanic -Arts,” which contains a great deal of rare and -important information. He has also written an -“Icelandic Grammar” of one hundred and fifty -pages, which created a sensation among the -learned of Europe a few years ago. As to his -scholarship,—it can be said of him, that he is a -<i>master</i> in some twelve of the principal modern and -ancient languages. He has not learned them -merely for the purpose of being considered a -literary prodigy, but to multiply his means of -acquiring information, which information is intended -<span class="pb" id="Page_125">125</span> -to accomplish some substantial end. He -is not a visionary, but a devoted lover of truth, -whether it be in History, Poetry, or the Arts.</p> -<p>But my chief object in speaking of this gentleman, -was to introduce a passing notice of his -Library, which is undoubtedly the most unique -in the country. The building itself, which stands -near his dwelling, is of brick, and arranged -throughout with great taste. You enter it, as -it was often my privilege, and find yourself in a -perfect wilderness of gorgeous books, and portfolios -of engravings. Of books, Mr. Marsh owns -some five thousand volumes. His collection of -Scandinavian Literature is supposed to be the more -complete than any out of the Northern Kingdoms. -To give you an idea of this literary treasure, I -will mention a few of the rarest specimens. In -old Northern Literature, here may be found the -<i>Arna Magnæan</i> editions of old Icelandic Sagas, -all those of <i>Suhm</i>, all those of the Royal Society -of Northern Antiquaries, and, in fact, all those -printed at Copenhagen and Stockholm, as well as -in Iceland, with scarcely an exception. This -Library also contains the great editions of <i>Heimskringla</i>, -the two <i>Eddas</i>, <i>Kongs-Skugg-Sjo</i>, <i>Konunga</i>, -<i>Styrilse</i>, the Scriptores Rerum Danicarum, Scriptores -Rerum Svecicarum, Dansk Magazin, the <i>two</i> -<span class="pb" id="Page_126">126</span> -complete editions of <i>Olaus Magnus</i>, <i>Saxo Grammaticus</i>, -the works of Bartholinus, Torfaus, Schöning, -Suhm, Pontoppidan, Grundtvig, Petersen, -Rask, the <i>Aplantica</i> of Rudbeck, the great works -of <i>Sjöborg</i>, Liljegren, Geijer, Cronholm, and Strinnholm, -all the collections of old Icelandic, Danish, -and Swedish laws, and almost all the writers, -ancient and modern, who have treated of the -language, literature, or history, of the ancient -Scandinavian race.</p> -<p>In modern Danish Literature, here may be -found the works of Holberg, Wessel, Ewald, -Hejberg, Baggesen, Oehlenschläger, Nyerup, -Ingemann, with other celebrated authors; in -Swedish, those of Leopold Oxenstjerna, Bellmann, -Franzen, Atterbom, Tegner, Frederika -Bremer, and indeed almost all the <i>belles-lettres</i> -authors of Sweden, the Transactions of the Royal -Academy of Science, (more than one hundred -volumes), those of the Swedish Academy, and of -the Royal Academy of Literature, and many collections -in documentary history, besides numerous -other works.</p> -<p>In Spanish and Portuguese, besides many modern -authors, here are numerous old chronicles, such as -the Madrid collection of old Spanish Chronicles -in seven volumes 4to.; the Portuguese <i>Livros</i> -<span class="pb" id="Page_127">127</span> -<i>ineditos da Historia Portugueza</i>, five volumes folio; -Fernam Lopez, de Brito, Duarte Nunez de Liam, -Damiam de Goes, de Barros, Castanheda, Resende, -Andrada, Osorio; also, de Menezes, Mariana, and -others of similar character. In Italian, most of -the best authors, who have acquired a European -reputation; several hundred volumes of French -works, including many of the ancient chronicles; -a fine collection in German, including many editions -of Reyneke der Fuchs, the Niebelungen, and other -works of the middle ages. In classical literature, -good editions of the most celebrated Greek and -Latin authors; and in English, a choice collection -of the best authors, among which should be mentioned, -as rare in this country, Lord Berners’ -Froissart, Roger Ascham, the writings of King -James I., John Smith’s Virginia (edition of 1624), -Amadis de Gaul, and Palmerin of England. In -lexicography, the best dictionaries and grammars -in all the languages of Western Europe, and many -biographical dictionaries and other works of reference -in various languages. Many works also on -astrology, alchemy, witchcraft, and magic; and a -goodly number of works on the situation of -Plato’s Atlantis and Elysian Fields, such as Rudbeck’s -Atlantica, Goropius Becanus, de Grave -République des Champs-Elysées, and a host of -<span class="pb" id="Page_128">128</span> -others in every department of learning, the mere -mention of which would cause the bookworm a -thrill of delight.</p> -<p>In the department of Art, Mr. Marsh possesses -the Musée Français, Musée Royal, (proof before -letters) Liber Veritatis, Houghton Gallery, Florence -Gallery, Publications of Dilettanti Society, and -many other illustrated works and collections of -engravings; the works of Bartsch, Ottley Mengs, -Visconti, Winckelmann, and other writers on the -history and theory of Art; old illustrated works, -among which are the original editions of Teuerdanck -and Der Weiss Kunig; and many thousand -steel engravings, including many originals by -Albert Dürer, Luke of Leyden, Lucas Cranach, -Aldegreuer, Wierx, the Sadelers Nauteuil, (among -others the celebrated Louis XIV., size of life, and -a proof of the Cadet à la Perle, by Masson), -Edelink, Drevet, Marc Antonio, and other old -engravers of the Italian school, Callot, Ostade, -Rembrandt, (including a most superb impression -of the Christ Healing the Sick, the hundred guilder -Piece, and the portrait of Renier Ansloo), Waterloo, -Woollett, Sharp, Strange, Earlom, Wille, Ficquet -Schmidt, Loughi, and Morghen; in short, nearly -all the works of all the greatest masters in chalcography, -from the time of Dürer to the present -<span class="pb" id="Page_129">129</span> -day. It were folly for me to praise these various -works, and I have alluded to them merely for the -purpose of letting you know something of the -taste and possessions of Mr. Marsh. His library -is one of the most delightful places it has ever -been my fortune to visit, and the day that I -became acquainted with the man, I cannot but -consider as an era in my life. Morning, noon, -and evening did I linger with the master-spirits -of olden time, collected in his library, and though -I often stood in mute admiration of their genius, -I was sometimes compelled to shed a tear, as I -thought of the destiny, as a writer, which will -probably be mine. Thank God, there is no such -thing as ambition in that blessed world above the -stars, which I hope to attain,—no ambition to -harass the soul,—for then will it be free to revel, -and for ever, in its holy and godlike conceptions. -But a truce to this strain of thought, and also to -the Lions of Burlington, of whom I now take my -leave with a respectful bow.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_130">130</div> -<h2 id="c9">CHAPTER IX.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Stage-coach—The Winooski—The Green Mountains—The ruined -Dwelling—The White Mountains—The Flume—A deep Pool—The -Old Man of the Mountain—The Basin—Franconia Notch—View -of the Mountains—Mount Washington—The Notch -Valley.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">In a Stage-coach. June.</span></p> -<p>Three loud knocks at my bed-room door awakened -me from “a deep dream of peace.” “The eastern -stage is ready,” said my landlord, as he handed -me a light; whereupon, in less than five minutes -after the hour of three, I was on my way to the -White Mountains, inditing on the tablet of my -memory, the following disjointed stage-coach rhapsody.</p> -<p>A fine coach, fourteen passengers, and six superb -horses. My seat is on the outside, and my eyes -on the alert for anything of peculiar interest which -I may meet with in my journey. Now do the -<span class="pb" id="Page_131">131</span> -beautiful Green Mountains meet my view. The -day is breaking, and lo! upon either side of me, -and like the two leaders of an army, rise the -peaks of Mansfield Mountain and the Camel’s -Hump. Around the former the cloud-spirits of -early morning are picturing the fantastic poetry -of the sky; while just above the summit of the -other, may be seen the new moon and the morning -star, waiting for the sun to come, like two sweet -human sisters, for the smiles and kisses of a -returning father. And now, as the sunbeams -glide along the earth, we are in the solitude of -the mountains, and the awakened mist-creatures -are ascending from the cool and silent nooks in the -deep ravines.</p> -<p>Young Dana’s description of a ship under full -sail is very fine, but it does not possess the living -beauty of that picture now before me, in those -six bay horses, straining every nerve to eclipse the -morning breeze. Hold your breath, for the road -is hard and smooth as marble, and the extended -nostrils of those matchless steeds speak of a noble -pride within. There, the race is done, the victory -theirs; and now, as they trot steadily along, -what music in the champing of those bits, and -the striking of those iron-bound hoofs! Of all -the soulless animals on earth, none do I love so -<span class="pb" id="Page_132">132</span> -dearly as the horse,—I sometimes am inclined to -think that they have souls. I respect a noble -horse, more than I do some men. Horses are the -Indian chiefs of the brute creation.</p> -<p>The Winooski, along whose banks runs the most -picturesque stage route in Vermont, is an uncommonly -interesting stream,—rapid, clear, and cold. -It is remarkable for its falls and narrow passes, -where perpendicular rocks of a hundred feet or -more, frown upon its solitary pools. Its chief -pictorial attraction is the cataract at Waterbury,—a -deep and jagged chasm in the granite mountain, -whose horrors are greatly increased by the sight -and the smothered howl of an avalanche of pure -white foam. On its banks, and forty miles from -its outlet near Burlington, is situated Montpelier, -the capital of Vermont. It is a compact town, -mostly built upon two streets, and completely -hemmed in by rich and cultivated mountains. Its -chief attractions to my mind, however, during -my short stay, was a pair of deep black eyes, only -half visible under their drooping lids.</p> -<p>During one of my rambles near Montpelier, I -discovered an isolated and abandoned dwelling, -which stands upon a little plot of green, in the -lap of the forest near the top of a mountain. I -entered its deserted chambers, and spent a long -<span class="pb" id="Page_133">133</span> -time musing upon its solemn admonitions. The -cellar had become the home of lizards and toads. -The spider and cricket were masters of the hearth, -where once had been spun the mountain legend, -by an old man to the only child of his widowed -son. They were, as I am told, the last of a long -line, which once flourished in Britain, and with -them their name would pass into forgetfulness. -Only the years of a single generation have elapsed -since then, but the dwellers upon yonder mountain -are sleeping in the grave! And is this passing -record of their existence the only inheritance they -have left behind? Most true; but would it have -been <i>better</i> for them, or for us, had they bequeathed -to the world a noted name, or immense possessions? -What is our life?</p> -<p>The route between Montpelier and Danville lies -along the Winooski, and is not less beautiful than -that down the river. Its chief picture is Marshfield -Waterfall. While at Montpelier, a pleasure -ride was got up by some of my friends, and as -they were bound to the east, and I was honoured -with an invitation, I sent on my baggage and -joined them, so that the monotony of my journey -was agreeably relieved. We had our fishing-rods -with us, and having stopped at the fall, we caught -a fine mess of trout, which we had cooked for -<span class="pb" id="Page_134">134</span> -dinner at the next tavern on our way,—and our -dessert was fine singing from the ladies, and good -stories from the lips of Senator Phelps, who was -of the party, and is celebrated for his conversational -powers. For further particulars concerning that -expedition, I would refer you to that pair of eyes, -which I just now mentioned as having beamed -upon me with a bewitching brilliancy. But alas! -the dear creature is already,—excuse me, I cannot, -I will not speak the hateful word. The lucky fellow -ought to carry a liberal and kind soul hereafter, -if he has never done so before.</p> -<p>At cock-crowing this morning I was again in -my seat outside of the stage-coach, anxiously waiting -for the mists to evaporate in the east. The -sun proved to be my friend, and soon as he -appeared, they vanished like a frightened troop, -and he was marching up the sky in the plenitude -of his glory. And then, for the first time, did -my vision rest upon the White Mountains, as they -reposed in the distance, like a mighty herd of -camels in the solitude of the desert. In the charming -valley of the Connecticut we only tarried about -ten minutes, but long enough for me to hear the -mower whet his scythe, the “lark sing loud and -high,” and the pleasant tinkle of a cow-bell far -away in a broad meadow. While there I took -<span class="pb" id="Page_135">135</span> -a sketch, wherein I introduced the father of New -England rivers, and the bald peak of Mount Lafayette, -with the storm-inflicted scar upon its brow. -A noble monument is yonder mountain to the -memory of a noble man.</p> -<p>While breakfasting at Littleton this morning, -I came to the conclusion to leave my baggage and -visit Franconia. I jumped into the stage, and -after a very pleasant ride of seventeen miles, found -myself far into the Notch, in the midst of whose -scenery I am to repose this night. I reached -here in time to enjoy an early dinner with “mine -host;” after which I sallied forth to examine the -wonders of the place, but was so delighted with -everything around, that I did not take time to -make a single sketch. I saw the Flume, and was -astonished. It is a chasm in the mountain, thirty -feet wide, about a hundred deep, and some two -thousand long, and as regular in its shape as -if it had been cut by the hand of man. Bridging -its centre is a rock of many tons weight, which -one would suppose could only have been hurled -there from the heavens. Through its centre flows -a little brook, which soon passes over a succession -of rocky slides, and which are almost as smooth -and white as marble. And to cap the climax, this -<span class="pb" id="Page_136">136</span> -Flume is the centre of as perfect and holy a wilderness -of scenery as could be imagined.</p> -<p>I have also seen (what should be the pride of -the Merrimack, as it is upon one of its tributaries) -the most superb pool in this whole country. The -fall above it is not remarkable, but the forest-covered -rocks on either side, and the pool itself, -are wonderfully fine. In the first place, you must -remember, that the waters of this whole region -are cold as ice, and very clear. The pool forms -a circle of about one hundred feet in diameter, -and is said to be fifty feet in depth. Owing to -the fall, it is the “head-quarters” of the trout, -which are found all along the stream in great -abundance. After I had completed a drawing, I -laid aside my pencils and fixed my fishing rod. -I threw the line only about two hours and caught -forty-five trout. Among them was the great-grandfather -of all trout, as I thought at the time, he -was seventeen inches long, and weighed two pounds -and one ounce.</p> -<p>The Old Man of the Mountain is another of -the lions of this place. It is a cone-shaped -mountain (at the foot of which is a small lake), -upon whose top are some rocks, which have a -resemblance to the profile of an old man. It is -<span class="pb" id="Page_137">137</span> -really a very curious affair. There the old fellow -stands, as he has stood perhaps for centuries, -“looking the whole world in the face.” I wonder -if the thunder ever frightens him? and does the -lightning play around his brow without making -him wink? His business there, I suppose, is to -protect the “ungranted lands” of New Hampshire, -or keep Isaac Hill from lecturing the White -Mountains on Locofocoism. He need not trouble -himself as to the first fear, for they could not be -deeded even to a bear; and as to the second, -I do not believe the mountains could ever be persuaded -to vote for the acquisition of New Territory. -Every plant upon them speaks of freedom, and -in their fastnesses does the eagle find a home,—their -banner-symbols are the stars and stripes, and -therefore they must be Whigs.</p> -<p>And another curiosity, which everybody goes -to see, is called the Basin,—an exquisite little -spot,—fit for the abode of a very angel. It is -formed in the solid rock, and though twenty feet -in depth, you can see a sixpence at the bottom,—it -is so wonderfully clear. But the wild beauties of -this Notch, unknown to fame, are charming beyond -compare. There goes the midnight warning of -the clock, and I must retire. Would that my -dreams might be of yonder star, now beaming with -<span class="pb" id="Page_138">138</span> -intense brightness above the dark outline of the -nearest mountain.</p> -<p>The distance from Knight’s tavern to the western -outlet of Franconia Notch is eight miles. The -eastern stage was to pass through about the middle -of the afternoon, so after eating my breakfast -I started on, intending to enjoy a walk between -the mountains. With the conceptions and feelings -that were with me then, I should have been willing -to die, for I was very happy.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p157.jpg" alt="" width="427" height="307" /> -<p class="caption">FRANCONIA NOTCH.</p> -</div> -<p>Now, as I sat upon a stone to sketch a mass of -foliage, a little red squirrel came within five feet of -me, and commenced a terrible chattering, as if his -<span class="pb" id="Page_139">139</span> -lady-love had given him the “mitten,” and he -was inveighing against the whole female sex; -and now an old partridge with a score of children -came tripping along the shadowy road, almost -within my reach, and so fearless of my presence, -that I would not have harmed one of them even for -a crown. Both of these were exceedingly simple -pictures, and yet they afforded me a world of -pleasure.</p> -<p>I thought of the favourite haunts of these dear -creatures—the hollow tree—the bed of dry leaves—the -cool spring—the mossy yellow log—the rocky -ledges overgrown with moss—the gurgling brooklet -stealing through the trees, with its fairy waterfalls -in a green shadow and its spots of vivid sunlight—and -of a thousand other kindred gems in the -wonderful gallery of Nature. And now as I walked -onward, peering into the gloomy recesses of the -forest on either side, or fixed my eyes upon the blue -sky with a few white clouds floating in their glory, -many of my favourite songs were remembered, and, -in a style peculiarly my own, I poured them upon -the air, whilst I was answered by unnumbered -mountain echoes. Nothing had they to do with -the place or with each other, but like the pictures -around me, they were a divine food for my soul—so -that I was in the enjoyment of a heavenly feast. -<span class="pb" id="Page_140">140</span> -Now, as I looked through the opening trees, I saw -an eagle floating above the summit of a mighty -cliff;—now, with the speed of a falling star descending -far into the leafy depths, and then, slowly but -surely ascending, until hidden from view by a -passing cloud. Fly on, proud bird, glorious symbol -of my country’s freedom! What a god-like life is -thine! Thou art the “sultan of the sky,” and -from thy craggy home for ever lookest upon the -abodes of man with indifference and scorn. The -war-whoop of the savage, the roar of artillery on the -bloody battle field, and the loud boom of the ocean -cannon, have fallen upon thy ear, and thou hast -listened, utterly heedless as to whom belonged the -victory. What strength and power in thy pinions! -traversing in an hour a wider space</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Than yonder gallant ship, with all her sails</p> -<p class="t0">Wooing the winds, can cross from morn till eve!”</p> -</div> -<p>When thy hunger-shriek echoes through the wilderness, -with terror does the wild animal seek his -den, for thy talons are of iron and thine eyes of -fire. But what is thy message to the sun? Far, -far into the zenith art thou gone, for ever gone—emblem -of a mighty hope that once was mine.</p> -<p>My thoughts were upon the earth once more, and -my feet upon a hill out of the woods, whence might -<span class="pb" id="Page_141">141</span> -be seen the long broad valley of the Amonoosack, -melting into that of the Connecticut. Long and -intently did I gaze upon the landscape, with its -unnumbered farm-houses, reposing in the sunlight, -and surmounted by pyramids of light blue smoke, -and also upon the cattle gazing on a thousand hills. -Presently I heard the rattling wheels of the stage-coach;—one -more look over the charming valley, -and I was in my seat beside the coachman.</p> -<p>In view of the foregoing and forthcoming facts, -I cannot but conclude that I am a most lucky -fellow. My ride from Franconia to Littleton was -attended with this interesting circumstance. A -very pretty young lady, who was in the stage, found -it necessary to change her seat to the outside on -account of the confinement within. Of course, I -welcomed her to my side with unalloyed pleasure. -The scenery was fine, but what does my reader -suppose I cared for that—as I sat there talking in -a most eloquent strain to my companion, with my -right arm around her waist to keep her from falling? -That conduct of mine may appear “shocking” to -those who have “never travelled,” but it was not -only an act of politeness but of absolute necessity. -Neither, as my patient’s smile told me, “was it bad -to take.” And how delightful it was to have her -cling to me, and to hear the beating of her heart, -<span class="pb" id="Page_142">142</span> -as the driver swung his whip and ran his horses -down the hills! Animal magnetism is indeed a -great invention—and I am a believer in it, so far -as the touch of a beautiful woman is concerned.</p> -<p>Away, away—thoughts of the human world! for -I am entering into the heart of the White Mountains. -Ah me! how can I describe these glorious -hierarchs of New England! How solemnly do they -raise their rugged peaks to heaven! Now, in token -of their royalty, crowned with a diadem of clouds; -and now with every one of their cliffs gleaming in -the sunlight like the pictures of a dream! For -ages, have they been the playmates of the storm, -and held communion with the mysteries of the -midnight sky. The earliest beams of the morning -have bathed them in living light, and theirs too -have been the last kisses of departing day. Man -and his empires have arisen and decayed, but they -have remained unchanged, a perpetual mockery. -Upon their summits, Time has never claimed dominion. -There, as of old, does the eagle teach her -brood to fly, and there does the wild bear prowl -after his prey. There do the waterfalls still leap -and shout on their way to the dells below, even as -when the tired Indian hunter, some hundred ages -agone, bent him to quaff the liquid element. There -still, does the rank grass rustle in the breeze, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_143">143</span> -the pine, and cedar, and hemlock, take part in the -howling of the gale. Upon Man alone falls the -heavy curse of time; Nature has never sinned, -therefore is her glory immortal.</p> -<p>As is well known, the highest of these mountains -was christened after our beloved Washington; and -with it, as with him, are associated the names of -Jefferson, Madison, and Adams. Its height is said -to be six thousand and eight hundred feet above -the sea; but owing to its situation in the centre of -a brotherhood of hills, it does not appear to be -so grand an object as South Peak Mountain among -the Catskills. Its summit, like most of its companions, -is destitute of vegetation, and therefore -more desolate and monotonous. It is somewhat of -an undertaking to ascend Mount Washington, -though the trip is performed on horseback; but if -the weather is clear, the traveller will be well repaid -for his labour. The painter will be pleased with -the views he may command in ascending the route -from Crawford’s, which abounds in the wildest and -most diversified charms of mountain scenery. But -the prospect from the summit of Washington, will -mostly excite the soul of the poet. Not so much -on account of what he will behold, but for the -breathless feeling, which will make him deem himself, -for a moment, to be an angel or a god. And -<span class="pb" id="Page_144">144</span> -then, more than ever, if he is a Christian, will he -desire to be alone, so as to anticipate the bliss of -heaven by a holy communion with the Invisible.</p> -<p>I spent a night upon this mountain; and my -best view of the prospect was at the break of day, -when, as Milton says,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“—— morn, her rosy steps in th’ Eastern clime</p> -<p class="t0">Advancing, sow’d the earth with orient pearls,”</p> -</div> -<p>and,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Wak’d by the circling hours, with rosy hand</p> -<p class="t0">Unbarr’d the gates of light;”</p> -</div> -<p>or, when in the language of Shakspeare,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The grey-eyed morn smiled on the frowning night,</p> -<p class="t0">Checkering the eastern clouds with streaks of light.”</p> -</div> -<p>Wonderfully vast, and strangely indistinct and -dreamy, was the scene spread out on every side. -To the west lay the superb Connecticut, with its -fertile valley reposing in the gloom of night; while -to the east, the ocean-bounded prospect, just bursting -into the life of light, was faintly relieved by -Winnepiseogee and Sebago lakes; and, like rockets -along the earth, wandered away the Merrimack, -the Saco, and the Androscoggin, to their ocean -home,—the whole forming an epic landscape, such -as we seldom behold excepting in our sleep. Heavens! -with what exquisite delight did I gaze upon -<span class="pb" id="Page_145">145</span> -the scene, as in the eyes of truth and fancy it -expanded before my mind. Yonder, in one of a -hundred villages, a young wife, with her first-born -child at her side, was in the midst of her morning -dream; and there, the pilgrim of fourscore years -was lying on his couch in a fitful slumber, as the -pains of age crept through his frame. There, on -the Atlantic shore, the fisherman in the sheltering -bay, hoisted anchor and spread his sail for the sea; -and there, the life-star of the lighthouse was extinguished, -again at its stated time to appear with -increased brilliancy. In reality, there was an ocean -of mountains all around me; but in the dim light -of the hour, and as I looked down upon them, it -seemed to me that I stood in the centre of a plain, -boundless as the universe; and though I could not -see them, I felt that I was in a region of spirits, -and that the summit of the mount was holy ground. -But the morning was advancing, the rising mists -obscured my vision, and as I did not wish to have -that day-break picture dissipated from my mind, I -mounted my faithful horse, and with a solemn awe -at heart, descended the mountain.</p> -<p>The ride from the Notch House, (kept by the -celebrated hunter, named Crawford), through the -Notch Valley, some twelve miles long, is magnificent. -First is the Gap itself, only some twenty -<span class="pb" id="Page_146">146</span> -feet in width, and overhung with jagged rocks of -wondrous height; and then the tiny spring, alive -with trout, which gives birth to the untamed Saco. -A few more downward steps, and you are in full -view of a bluff, whose storm-scathed brow seems -to prop the very heavens, its grey shadows strongly -contrasting with the deep blue sky. A little -further on, and you find yourself in an amphitheatre -of mountains, whose summits and sides are barren -and desolate, where the storms of a thousand years -have exhausted their fury. Downward still, and -farther on, and you come to the memorable Wiley -cottage, whose inhabitants perished in the avalanche -or slide of 1826. The storm had been unceasing -for some days upon the surrounding country, and -the dwellers of the cottage were startled at midnight -by the falling earth. They fled, and were -buried in an instant; and up to the present time, -only one of the seven bodies has ever been found. -As it then stood, the dwelling still stands—a -monument of mysterious escape, as well as of the -incomprehensible decrees of Providence. The Saco -river, which runs through the valley, was lifted -from its original bed, and forced into a new channel. -The whole place, which but a short time before -was “a beautiful and verdant opening amid the -surrounding rudeness and deep shadow, is now -<span class="pb" id="Page_147">147</span> -like a stretch of desolate sea-shore after a tempest,—full -of wrecks, buried in sand and rocks, crushed -and ground to atoms.”</p> -<p>After witnessing so much of the grand and -gloomy, I was glad to retrace my course back to -a more tame country. My last view of Mount -Washington and its lordly companions was the -most beautiful. The sun was near his setting, and -the whole sky was suffused with a glow of -richest yellow and crimson, while to the eastward -hung two immense copper-coloured clouds just -touching the outline of the mountains; and through -the hazy atmosphere the mountains themselves -looked cloud-like, but with more of the bright blue -of heaven upon them. In the extensive middle -distance faded away wood-crowned hills, and in -the foreground an exquisite little farm, with the -husbandman’s happy abode almost hidden by groups -of elms, and with the simple figures, only a few -paces off, of a little girl sitting on a stone, with -a bunch of summer flowers in her hand, and a -basket of berries and a dog at her side. One more -yearning gaze upon the dear old mountains, and -I resumed my pilgrimage towards the north.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_148">148</div> -<h2 id="c10">CHAPTER X.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Montreal.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Montreal. June.</span></p> -<p>With some things in Montreal I have been -pleased, but with others a good deal dissatisfied. -The appearance which it presents from every point -of view is imposing in the extreme. Its numerous -church towers and extensive blocks of stores, its -extensive shipping and noble stone wharves, combine -to give one an idea of great wealth and -liberality. On first riding to my hotel I was struck -with the cleanliness of its streets; and, on being -shown to my room, I was convinced that the hotel -itself (Donegana’s) was of the first water. It -abounds in public buildings, which are usually -built of lime-stone, and the city extends along -the river St. Lawrence about three miles. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_149">149</span> -streets in the older parts of the town are as picturesque -and narrow as those of the more ancient -cities of the old world, but in the modern portions -they are quite regular and comfortable. The principal -street is Notre Dame, which always presents, -on a pleasant day, a gay and elegant appearance.</p> -<p>Generally speaking, its churches are below mediocrity, -but it has one architectural lion worth -mentioning, the Catholic Cathedral. It faces a -square called Place d’Armes, and presents an imposing -appearance. It is built of stone, and said to -be after the Norman-Gothic order of architecture, -but I should think it a mixture of a dozen <i>dis-orders</i>. -Its extreme length is two hundred and fifty-five -feet, breadth one hundred and thirty-five, and its -height seventy-two feet. It has also two towers, -which measure two hundred and twenty feet to their -summit. The windows in these towers are closed -with coarse boards; and yet it cost four hundred -thousand dollars. The ground-floor is covered with -pews capable of seating eight thousand people, -while the aisles and galleries might hold two thousand -more. The galleries are supported by wooden -pillars, which reminded me of a New York barber’s -sign. The interior has a naked and doleful appearance; -the large window above the altar is -<span class="pb" id="Page_150">150</span> -wretchedly painted; the altar itself is loaded with -gewgaws, and, of the many paintings which meet -you in every direction, there is not one for which -I would pay ten dollars. The organ resembles a -bird-house, and the music perpetrated there every -day in the year would jar upon the ear of even an -American Indian. And when it is remembered -that this church was built by one of the wealthiest -corporations on the continent, it is utterly impossible -to entertain a feeling of charity towards the -founders thereof.</p> -<p>The population of Montreal is now estimated at -forty thousand, one-half of whom are Roman -Catholics, one quarter Protestants, and the remainder -nothing in particular. By this statement -it will be readily seen that the establishments of the -Catholics must be the most abundant. Nunneries -are consequently very numerous, some of them well -endowed; and to those who have a passion for such -affairs must be exceedingly interesting.</p> -<p>But I wish to mention one or two more specimens -of architecture. The market of Montreal is built -of stone, situated near the river, and remarkably -spacious and convenient in all its arrangements. -It eclipses anything of the kind that we can boast -of in the States. The only monument in the city -<span class="pb" id="Page_151">151</span> -of any note is a Doric column, surmounted with -a statue, and erected in honour of Lord Nelson. -The entire column is seventy feet high, and gives -an air of elegance to that portion of Notre Dame -where it stands. On the four sides of the pedestal -are pictorial representations, in alto relievo, representing -Nelson in some of his memorable battles. -It was erected by the British inhabitants of Montreal -at a cost of near six thousand dollars.</p> -<p>One of the more striking peculiarities of this city -is the fact that every body has to live, walk, and -sleep at the point of a bayonet. Military quarters -are stationed in various portions of the city, and -soldiers meet you at every corner, marching to and -fro, and sometimes puffed up with ignorance and -vanity. The last woman, I am sorry to say, who -has become an outcast from society, attributes her -misfortune to a soldier; but the officers of the -British army stationed here are generally well-educated -and agreeable gentlemen.</p> -<p>The people whom you meet in the streets of -Montreal seem to come from almost every nation -in the world. Now it may be the pompous Englishman, -who represents some wilderness district in -Parliament, and now it may be the cunning Scotchman, -or a half-famished Irishman. Sometimes it -<span class="pb" id="Page_152">152</span> -is the speculating American, or the humble, but -designing Jew, the gay and polite Habitan, or a -group of wandering Indians from the far north. -The better class of Montreal people (so called by -a fashionable world) are the British settlers, or -rather the English population. Generally speaking, -they are highly intelligent, somewhat arbitrary in -expressing their opinions, but they entertain hospitable -feelings towards strangers. They boast of -their mother-country, as if her glory and power -were omnipotent, and an occasional individual may -be found who will not scruple to insult an American -if he happens to defend his own. In religion, they -are generally Episcopalians; they hate the Habitan, -look with contempt upon the poor Irish, and address -their brethren of Scotland with a patronising air. -They drink immense quantities of wine; and those -who happen to be the illiterate members of the -Provincial Parliament, think themselves the greatest -people on earth.</p> -<p>The island upon which Montreal is situated is -seventy miles in circumference, and was once (if -not now) the property of an order of Catholic -priesthood. In the rear of the city rises a noble -hill, called Mount Royal, from which it derives -its name. The hill itself is thickly wooded, but -<span class="pb" id="Page_153">153</span> -the surrounding country is exceedingly fertile, and -studded with elegant country seats and the rural -abodes of the peasantry. A ride around the Mount, -on a pleasant day, is one of the most delightful -imaginable, commanding a view of Montreal and -the St. Lawrence valley, which is grand beyond -compare.</p> -<p>To appreciate the unique features of Montreal, -it is necessary that you should be there on the -Sabbath, the gala-day of the Catholics. Then it is -that the peasantry flock into the city from all -directions, and, when they are pouring into the -huge Cathedral by thousands, dressed in a thousand -fantastic fashions, cracking their jokes and laughing -as they move along, the entire scene is apt to fill -one with peculiar feelings. It was beautiful to look -at; but the thought struck me that I should hate -to live in the shadow of that Cathedral for ever. -But if you chance to take a walk in the suburbs on -a Sabbath afternoon, you will notice much that -cannot but afford you real satisfaction. You will -find almost every cottage a fit subject for a picture, -and the flocks of neatly-dressed, happy, and polite -children playing along the roads, together with -frequent groups of sober men, sitting in a porch, -and the occasional image of a beautiful girl or -<span class="pb" id="Page_154">154</span> -contented mother leaning out of a window—all -these things, I say, constitute a charm which is not -met with everywhere. But enough. Montreal is -a fine city, and I trust that it will yet be my -fortune to visit it again, and see more of its polished -society.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_155">155</div> -<h2 id="c11">CHAPTER XI.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Quebec.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Quebec. June.</span></p> -<p>I came from Montreal to this city in the day -time, and consequently had an opportunity of -examining this portion of the St. Lawrence. The -river opposite Montreal runs at the rate of six -miles per hour, and is two miles wide; it preserves -this breadth for about sixty miles, and then expands -into the beautiful and emerald-looking Lake of St. -Peter, after which it varies from one to five in -width until it reaches Quebec, which is distant -from Montreal one hundred and eighty miles. -Above St. Peter, the shores vary from five to fifteen -feet in height, but below the lake they gradually -become more elevated, until they measure some -three hundred feet in the vicinity of Quebec. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_156">156</span> -country between the two Canadian cities is well -cultivated, and on either side may be seen a continued -succession of rural cottages.</p> -<p>Our steamer approached Quebec at the sunset -hour, and I must say that I have never witnessed a -more superb prospect than the lofty Citadel-city, -the contracted St. Lawrence, the opposite headland -called Point Levi, and the far-distant land, which -I knew to be Cape Tourment. A stiff breeze was -blowing at the time, and some twenty ships were -sailing to and fro, while we had to make our way -into port by winding between and around some three -hundred ships which were at anchor.</p> -<p>I have seen much in this goodly city which has -made a deep impression on my mind. The promontory -called Cape Diamond, upon which it stands, -is formed by the junction of the St. Charles and -St. Lawrence rivers, and rises to the height of -three hundred and fifty feet above the water. The -city is built from the water’s edge along the base -of the cliff, and from thence in a circuitous manner -ascends to the very borders of the Citadel and -ramparts. There is but one street leading from -the Lower to the Upper Town, and that is narrow -and very steep, and the gateway is defended by -a number of large cannon. The city is remarkably -<span class="pb" id="Page_157">157</span> -irregular, and, as many of the buildings are very -ancient, its appearance is picturesque and romantic. -The fortifications cover an area of forty acres, and -beneath them are many spacious and gloomy vaults, -for the reception of ammunition and stores during -a time of war. Receding into the interior, from -the very brow of the Fortress, are the Plains of -Abraham, which are covered with a rich green sod, -and planted with unnumbered cannon. Their historical -associations are numerous, and, as they would -fill a chapter in themselves, I will refrain from dwelling -upon them at this time.</p> -<p>The religious establishments of Quebec are -numerous, and belong mostly to the Roman Catholics; -like those of Montreal they are very ancient -and well endowed; but they did not interest me, -and I am sure my description of them would not -interest my reader. As a matter of course, I visited -the French Cathedral. It seems to be as old as -the hills, and yet all the windows of the principal -tower are roughly boarded up. On entering the -edifice, which is crowded with gilded ornaments, -I could not fix my eye upon a single object which -suggested the idea of richness. The sculpture, -the paintings, and even the gilding, are all without -merit; and what greatly added to my disgust was, -that I could not obtain a civil answer from a single -<span class="pb" id="Page_158">158</span> -one of the many boorish boys and men, who were -fussing about the church.</p> -<p>In the front of an extensive promenade, just -below the Citadel, stands the monument erected -to the memory of Montcalm and Wolfe. The -gentleman who contributed the largest sum for -its erection, was Lord Dalhousie. It is a handsome -obelisk, and was designed by a military gentleman -named Young. The principal inscription on the -column is characteristic of the English nation, -and is what an American would call “a puff -of Dalhousie”—even though it be chiselled in -Latin. The annoying effect of this inscription, -however, is counteracted by another, which is also -in Latin, and very beautiful. It was composed -by J. C. Fisher, Esq., LL.D., founder of the Quebec -Gazette, and is as follows:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Military virtue gave them a common death,</p> -<p class="t0">History a common fame,</p> -<p class="t0">Posterity a common monument.”</p> -</div> -<p>The Golden Dog is another curiosity which will -attract the attention of the visitor to Quebec. It -is the figure of a dog, rudely sculptured in <i>relievo</i>, -and richly gilded, which stands above the entrance -of an ancient house, which was built by M. Phillibert, -a merchant of this city, in the time of M. -<span class="pb" id="Page_159">159</span> -Bigot, the last Intendant under the French Government. -Connected with it is the following curious -story, which I copy from an old record:</p> -<p>“M. Phillibert and the Intendant were on bad -terms, but, under the system then existing, the -merchant knew that it was in vain for him to seek -redress in the colony; and, determining at some -future period to prefer his complaint in France, -he contented himself with placing the figure of -a sleeping dog in front of his house, with the -following lines beneath it, in allusion to his situation -with his powerful enemy:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“‘Je suis un chien qui ronge l’os,</p> -<p class="t0">En le rongeant je prends mon repos—</p> -<p class="t0">Un tems viendra qui n’est pas venu—</p> -<p class="t0">Que je mordrai qui m’aura mordu.’</p> -</div> -<p>“This allegorical language was, however, too -plain for M. Bigot to misunderstand it. A man -so powerful easily found an instrument to avenge -the insult, and M. Phillibert received, as the reward -of his verse, the sword of an officer of the garrison -through his back, when descending the Lower -Town Hill. The murderer was permitted to leave -the colony unmolested, and was transferred to a -regiment stationed in the East Indies. Thither -he was pursued by a brother of the deceased, who -<span class="pb" id="Page_160">160</span> -had first sought him in Canada, when he arrived -to settle his brother’s affairs. The parties, it is -related, met in the public street of Pondicherry, -drew their swords, and, after a severe conflict, the -assassin met a more honourable fate than his crime -deserved, and died by the hand of his antagonist.”</p> -<p>I know not that there are any other curiosities -in Quebec really worth mentioning, and I willingly -turn to its natural attractions. The Fortress itself -is undoubtedly one, if not the most formidable -on the Continent, but I fell in love with it on -account of its <i>observatory</i> features. To ramble over -its commanding ramparts, without knowing or -caring to know a solitary individual, has been to -me an agreeable and unique source of entertainment. -At one time I leaned upon the balustrade, -and looked down upon the Lower Town. It was -near the hour of noon. Horses and carriages, -men, women, and children, were hurrying through -the narrow streets, and ships were in the docks -discharging their cargoes. I looked down upon -all these things at a single glance, and yet the -only noise I heard was a hum of business. Even -the loud clear shout of the sailor, as he tugged -away at the mast-head of his ship, could hardly -<span class="pb" id="Page_161">161</span> -be heard stealing upward on the air. Doves were -flying about high above the roofs, but they were -so far below my point of vision, that I could not -hear the beating of their wings.</p> -<p>But the finest prospect that I have enjoyed in -this city was from the summit of the Signal-House, -which looms above the Citadel. I visited this spot -just as the sun was setting, and every thing was -enveloped in a golden atmosphere. Beneath me -lay the city, gradually lulling itself to repose; on -the west, far as the eye could reach, faded away -the valley of the Upper St. Lawrence; towards the -north, winding its way between high and well-cultivated -hills, was the river St. Charles; towards -the eastward, rolling onward in its sublimity like -an ocean across the continent, was the flood of -the Lower St. Lawrence, whitened by more than -a hundred sails; and towards the south reposed -a picturesque country of hills and dales, beyond -which I could just discern some of the mountain-peaks -of my own dear “Fatherland.” Strange -and beautiful beyond compare was the entire -panorama, and how was its influence upon me -deepened, as a strain of martial music broke upon -the silent air, and then melted into my very heart! -I knew not whence it came, or who were the -<span class="pb" id="Page_162">162</span> -musicians, but I “blessed them unaware,” and -as my vision again wandered over the far-off hills, -I was quite happy.</p> -<p>The population of Quebec is estimated at thirty -thousand, and the variety is as great as in Montreal. -A large proportion of the people whom you see parading -the streets are soldiers, and chief among them -I would mention the Scotch Highlanders, who -are a noble set of men, and dress in handsome -style.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p181.jpg" alt="" width="410" height="317" /> -<p class="caption">FALLS OF MONTMORENCY.</p> -</div> -<p>Quebec, upon the whole, is a remarkable place, -and well worth visiting. The environs of the city -are also interesting, and a ride to the Falls of -<span class="pb" id="Page_163">163</span> -Montmorency, seven miles down the river, and -back again by an interior road, will abundantly -repay the tourist for all the trouble and expense -to which he may be subjected.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_164">164</div> -<h2 id="c12">CHAPTER XII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">A sail down the St. Lawrence—Sword-Fish—Chasing a Whale.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Tadousac. June.</span></p> -<p>I have not visited Canada for the purpose of -examining her cities, and studying the character -of her people, but solely with a view of hunting -up some new scenery, and having a little sport -in the way of salmon fishing. I am writing this -chapter at the mouth of probably the most remarkable -river in North America. But, before entering -upon a description of my sojourn here, it is meet, -I ween, that I should record an account of my -journey down the St. Lawrence.</p> -<p>On reaching Quebec, I was informed that there -was no regular mode of conveyance down the great -river, and that I should have to take passage in a -transient ship or schooner, which would land me -<span class="pb" id="Page_165">165</span> -at my desired haven. This intelligence had a tendency -to damp my spirits, and I had to content -myself by sauntering about the Citadel-city. Among -the places I visited was the fish market, where it -was my good fortune to find a small smack, which -had brought a load of fresh salmon to market, and -was on the point of returning to the Saguenay for -another cargo. In less than thirty minutes after I -first saw him, I had struck a bargain with the -skipper, transferred my luggage on board the -smack, and was on my way to a region which -was to me unknown.</p> -<p>We hoisted sail at twelve o’clock, and were -favoured by a stiff westerly breeze. Everything, -in fact, connected with the voyage was beautifully -accidental, and I had a “glorious time.” In the -first place, our craft was just the thing—schooner-rigged, -a fast sailer, and perfectly safe. The -skipper, named Belland, was a warm-hearted and -intelligent Frenchman, whose entire crew consisted -of one boy. The day was superb, and the scenery -of the river appeared to me more like the work -of enchantment than nature.</p> -<p>The appearance of Quebec, from the eastward, -is imposing in the extreme. Standing as it does -upon a lofty bluff, its massive ramparts, and tin-covered -<span class="pb" id="Page_166">166</span> -roofs, domes, and cupolas, suggest the -idea of immense power and opulence. Just below -the city, the St. Lawrence spreads out to the width -of three or four miles, while from the margin of -either shore fade away a continued succession of -hills, which vary from five hundred to fifteen -hundred feet in height. Those upon the north -shore are the highest, and both sides of the river, -for a distance of some twenty miles below the -city, are plentifully sprinkled with the white -cottages of the Canadian peasantry. As you -proceed, however, the river gradually widens, the -hills upon the north shore become more lofty, -reaching the elevation of two thousand feet; and, -while you only occasionally discover a farm-house -upon their summits, the southern shore continues -to bear the appearance of a settled country, where -the spire of a Catholic Church is frequently seen -looming above a cluster of rural residences. In -descending the river, the first pictorial feature -which attracts attention is the Fall of Montmorency, -pouring the waters of a noble tributary -immediately into the St. Lawrence. Just below -this fall the river is divided by the island of -Orleans, which measures about twenty miles in -length, and five in breadth. It is partly covered -<span class="pb" id="Page_167">167</span> -with forest, and partly cultivated, and, though -the shores are rather low, it contains a number -of points which are a hundred feet high. At -the eastern termination of this island is the -parish of St. Laurent, a remarkably tidy French -village, whose inhabitants are said to be as simple -in their manners as they are virtuous and ignorant -of the world at large. On a smaller island, which -lies some thirty miles below Quebec, and directly -opposite a noble cape called Tourment, the quarantine -station for the shipping of the river is situated; -and when I passed this spot I counted no -less than forty-five ships at anchor, nearly all of -which were freighted with foreign paupers, who -were then dying of the ship fever at the rate of -one hundred and fifty individuals per day. I -might here mention that the vessels usually seen -on this part of the St. Lawrence are merchant -ships and brigs, which are chiefly and extensively -employed in the lumber and timber trade. Another -island in this portion of the St. Lawrence, which -attracts attention from its peculiar sylvan beauty, -is called Goose Island, and owned by a Sisterhood -of Nuns, who have cultivated it extensively. The -eastern portion of it is yet covered with forest; -the channels on either side are not far from five -<span class="pb" id="Page_168">168</span> -miles wide, and it is distant about fifty miles from -Quebec.</p> -<p>We landed here at sunset; and while my companions -were building a watch-fire and cooking a -supper of fish, pork, and onions, I amused myself -by taking sundry observations. I found the vegetation -of the island very luxuriant, the common -hard woods of the north prevailing; but its foundation -seemed to be composed of two distinct species -of sandstone. Both varieties were of the finest -grain, and while one was of a rich Indian red, the -other was a deep blue. This portion of the St. -Lawrence is a good deal blocked up by extensive -reefs composed of these identical sandstones, and at -one point they extend so nearly across the river as -to render the ship navigation extremely dangerous. -On subsequently examining the high hills on the -north shore, in this vicinity, I found them to be of -solid granite, veined with red marble and extensive -beds of quartz, and covered with a stunted -forest of pine and hemlock. But this geological -dissertation is keeping my pen from describing a -night picture, which it was my privilege to witness -on this beautiful but badly named island, where, -for sundry reasons, we intended to spend the -night.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_169">169</div> -<p>Our supper was ended, and the skipper had paid -his last visit to the little craft, and, with his boy, -had smoked himself to sleep by our camp-fire. -The sky was without a cloud, but studded with -stars, and the breeze which kissed my cheek was -soft and pleasant as the breath of one we dearly -love. I had seated myself upon a rock, with my -face turned towards the north, when my attention -was attracted by a column of light which shot upward -to the zenith behind the distant mountains. -The broad expanse of the St. Lawrence was without -a ripple, and the mountains, together with the -column of light and the unnumbered stars, were -distinctly mirrored in its bosom.</p> -<p>While looking upon this scene, the idea struck -me that the moon was about to rise; but I soon -saw a crimson glow stealing up the sky, and knew -that I was looking upon the fantastic performances -of the Northern Lights. Broad, and of the purest -white, were the many rays which shot upward from -behind the mountain: and at equal distances -between the horizon and the zenith were displayed -four arches of a purple hue, the uppermost one -melting imperceptibly in the deep blue sky. On -again turning my eyes upward, I discovered that -the columns and arches had all disappeared, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_170">170</span> -that the entire sky was covered with a crimson -colour, which resembled a lake of liquid fire tossed -into innumerable waves. Strange were my feelings -as I looked upon this scene, and thought of the -unknown wilderness before me, and of the Being -whose ways are past finding out, and who holdeth -the entire world, with its cities, mountains, rivers, -and boundless wildernesses, in the hollow of his -hand.</p> -<p>Long and intently did I gaze upon this wonder -of the north; and at the moment that it was fading -away, a wild swan passed over my head, sailing -towards Hudson’s Bay, and as his lonely song -echoed along the silent air, I retraced my steps to -the watch-fire and was soon a dreamer.</p> -<p>That portion of the St. Lawrence extending -between Goose Island and the Saguenay, is about -twenty miles wide. The spring tides rise and fall -a distance of eighteen feet; the water is salt, but -clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here -it was that I first saw the black seal, the white -porpoise, and the black whale. But speaking of -whales reminds me of a “whaling” fish story. -A short distance above the Saguenay river there -shoots out into the St. Lawrence, to the distance of -about eight miles, a broad sand-bank, which greatly -<span class="pb" id="Page_171">171</span> -endangers the navigation. In descending the great -river we had to double this cape, and it was at this -point that I first saw a whale. The fellow had -been pursued by a sword-fish, and when we discovered -him his head was turned towards the beach, -and he was moving with great rapidity, occasionally -performing a most fearful leap, and uttering a -sound that resembled the bellowing of a thousand -bulls. The whale must have been forty feet long, -and his enemy nearly twenty; and as they hurried -on their course with great speed, the sight was -indeed terrible. Frantic with rage and pain, it so -happened that the more unwieldly individual forgot -his bearings, and in a very few minutes he was -floundering about on the sand-bar in about ten feet -of water, when the rascally sword-fish immediately -beat a retreat. After awhile, however, the whale resolved -to rest himself; but, as the tide was going -out, his intentions were soon changed, and he began -to roll himself about and slap the water with his -tail for the purpose of getting clear. His efforts -in a short time proved successful; and when we -last saw him he was in the deepest part of the river, -moving rapidly towards the Gulf, and spouting up -the water as if congratulating himself upon his -narrow escape.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_172">172</div> -<p>In about two hours after witnessing this incident, -our boat was moored at the mouth of the Saguenay; -and of the comparatively unknown wilderness which -this stream waters, my readers will find some information -in the next chapter.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_173">173</div> -<h2 id="c13">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Saguenay River—Chicoutimi—Storm Picture—Hudson’s Bay -Company—Eminent Merchant—The Mountaineer Indians—Tadousac—Ruin -of a Jesuit Establishment.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Tadousac. July.</span></p> -<p>About one hundred and fifty miles north of the -St. Lawrence, and on one of the trails leading to -Hudson’s Bay, lies a beautiful Lake called St. John. -It is about forty miles long, and surrounded with a -heavily timbered and rather level country. Its inlets -are numerous, and twelve of them are regular -rivers. Its waters are clear, and abound in a great -variety of uncommonly fine fish. The principal -outlet to this Lake is the Saguenay river, which -takes a southerly direction, and empties into the -St. Lawrence. It is the largest tributary of the -great river, and unquestionably one of the most -remarkable on the continent. Its original Indian -<span class="pb" id="Page_174">174</span> -name was Chicoutimi, signifying <i>Deep Water</i>; but -the early Jesuit missionaries, who have scattered -their <i>Saint-anic</i> names over this entire country, -thought proper to give it the name which it now -bears, and the round-about interpretation of which -is, <i>Nose of the Sack</i>. This name suggests to the -world that the nose of St. John must have been a -very long nose, and may be looked upon as a -unique specimen of French poetry.</p> -<p>The scenery of the Saguenay is wild and romantic -to an uncommon degree. The first half of its -course averages half a mile in width, and runs -through an untrodden wilderness of pine and spruce -covered hills. It abounds in waterfalls and rapids, -and is only navigable for the Indian canoe. A few -miles below the most southern fall on the river the -village of Chicoutimi is situated, where an extensive -lumbering business is transacted, and the Hudson’s -Bay Company have an important post. The -village has an ancient appearance, and contains -about five hundred inhabitants, chiefly Canadian -French. The only curiosity in the place is a rude -Catholic Church, which is said to have been built -by Jesuit missionaries upwards of one hundred -years ago. It occupies the centre of a grassy lawn, -surrounded with shrubbery, backed by a cluster of -wood-crowned hills, and commands a fine prospect, -<span class="pb" id="Page_175">175</span> -not only of the Saguenay, but also of a spacious -bay, into which there empties a noble mountain -stream, now known as Chicoutimi River. In the -belfry of this venerable church hangs a clear-toned -bell, with an inscription upon it which the learning -of Canada (with all its learned and unnumbered -priests) has not yet been able to translate or -expound. But, great as is the mystery of this -inscription, it is less mysterious to my mind than -are the motives of the Romish Church in planting -the cross in the remotest corners of the earth, as -well as in the mightiest of cities.</p> -<p>About ten miles south of Chicoutimi there recedes -from the west bank of the Saguenay, to the -distance of ten miles, a beautiful expanse of water -called Grand Bay. The original name of this bay -was “Ha, Ha,” descriptive of the surprise which -the French experienced when they first entered into -it, supposing that it was the Saguenay, until their -shallop grounded on the north-western shore. At -the head thereof is another settlement, similar to -Chicoutimi. Between these two places the Saguenay -is rather shallow, (when compared with the -remainder of its course,) and varies in width from -two and a half to three miles. The tides of the -ocean are observable as far north as Chicoutimi, -<span class="pb" id="Page_176">176</span> -and this entire section of the river is navigable for -ships of the largest class.</p> -<p>That portion of the Saguenay extending from -Grand Bay to the St. Lawrence, a distance of sixty -miles, is greatly distinguished for its wild and -picturesque scenery. I know not that I can better -pourtray to my reader’s mind the peculiarity of this -river than by the following method: imagine for a -moment an extensive country of rocky and thinly-clad -mountains, suddenly separated by some convulsion -of Nature so as to form an almost bottomless -chasm, varying from one to two miles in width; -and then imagine this chasm suddenly half-filled -with water, and that the moss of centuries has -softened the rugged walls on either side, and you -will have a pretty accurate idea of the Saguenay.</p> -<p>The shores of this river are composed principally -of granite, and every bend presents you with an -imposing bluff, the majority of which are eight -hundred feet high, and many of them upwards -of fifteen hundred. And, generally speaking, these -towering bulwarks are not content to loom perpendicularly -into the air, but they must needs bend -over as if to look at their own savage features -reflected in the deep. Ay, and that word deep -<span class="pb" id="Page_177">177</span> -tells but the simple truth; for the flood that rolls -beneath is black and cold as the bottomless pit. -To speak without a figure, and from actual measurement, -I can state that many portions of the -Saguenay are one thousand feet deep, and the -shallowest spots not much less than one hundred. -In many places, too, the water is as deep as five feet -from the rocky barriers as it is in the centre of -the stream. The feelings which filled my breast, -and the thoughts which oppressed my brain, as -I paddled by these places in my canoe, were allied -to those which almost overwhelmed me when I -first looked upward from below the Fall, to the -mighty flood of Niagara. Awful beyond expression, -I can assure you, is the sensation which one -experiences in sailing along the Saguenay, to raise -his eyes heavenward and behold hanging directly -over his head a mass of granite, apparently ready to -totter and fall, and weighing perhaps a million -tons. Terrible and sublime, beyond the imagery -of the most daring poet, are these cliffs; and, -while they proclaim the omnipotent power of God, -they at the same time whisper into the ear of man -that he is but as the moth which flutters in the -noontide air. And yet, is it not enough to fill -the heart of man with holy pride and unbounded -love, to remember that the soul within him will -<span class="pb" id="Page_178">178</span> -but have commenced its existence when all the -mountains of the world shall have been consumed -as a scroll?</p> -<p>It is to the Saguenay that I am indebted -for one of the most imposing storm pictures that -I ever witnessed. It had been a most oppressive -day, and, as I was passing up the river at a late -hour in the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind -came rushing down the stream, causing my Indian -companion to bow, as if in prayer, and then to -urge our frail canoe towards a little rocky island, -upon which we immediately landed.</p> -<p>Soon as we had surmounted our refuge, the -sky was overcast with a pall of blackness, which -completely enveloped the cliffs on either side, and -gave the roaring waters a death-like hue. Then -broke forth from above our heads the heavy roar -of thunder, and, as it gradually increased in -compass and became more threatening and impetuous, -its volleys were answered by a thousand -echoes, which seemed to have been startled from -every crag in the wilderness, while flashes of the -most vivid lightning were constantly illuminating -the gloomy storm-made cavern which appeared -before us. Down upon his knees again fell my -poor Indian comrade, and, while I sat by his side, -trembling with terror, the thought actually flew -<span class="pb" id="Page_179">179</span> -into my mind that I was on the point of passing -into eternity. Soon, however, the wind ceased -blowing, the thunder to roar, and the lightning to -flash; and in less than one hour after its commencement, -the storm had subsided, and that portion -of the Saguenay was glowing beneath the -crimson rays of the setting sun.</p> -<p>From what I have written, my reader may be -impressed with the idea that this river is incapable -of yielding pleasurable sensations. Sail along its -shores on a pleasant day, when its cliffs are partly -hidden in shadow, and covered with a gauze-like -atmosphere, and they will fill your heart with -images of beauty. Or, if you would enjoy a still -greater variety, let your thoughts flow away upon -the blue smoke which rises from an Indian encampment, -hidden in a dreamy-looking cove; let -your eye follow an eagle swooping along his airy -pathway near the summit of the cliffs, or glance -across the watery plain, and see the silver salmon -leaping by hundreds into the air for their insect -food. Here, too, you may always discover a number -of seals, bobbing their heads out of water, as if -watching your every movement; and, on the other -hand, a drove of white porpoises, rolling their huge -bodies along the waters, ever and anon spouting -<span class="pb" id="Page_180">180</span> -a shower of liquid diamonds into the air. O yes, -manifold indeed, and beautiful beyond compare, -are the charms of the Saguenay!</p> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p199.jpg" alt="" width="443" height="318" /> -<p class="caption">CAPE TRINITY.</p> -</div> -<p>Although my description of this river has thus -far been of a general character, I would not omit -to mention, as perfect gems of scenery, Trinity -Point, Eternity Cape, the Tableau, and la Tête -du Boule. The peculiarities of these promontories -are so well described by their very names, that I -shall refrain from attempting a particular description -of my own.</p> -<p>The wilderness through which this river runs -is of such a character that its shores can never -<span class="pb" id="Page_181">181</span> -be greatly changed in their external appearance. -Only a small proportion of its soil can ever be -brought under cultivation; and, as its forests are -a good deal stunted, its lumbering resources are far -from being inexhaustible. The wealth which it contains -is probably of a mineral character; and if the -reports I hear are correct, it abounds in iron ore. -That it would yield an abundance of fine marble, I -am certain; for in passing up this stream, the -observing eye will frequently fall upon a broad vein -of an article as pure as alabaster.</p> -<p>How is it, many people are led to inquire, that -so little has been known of the Saguenay country -until recently? This question is easily solved. -It is a portion of that vast territory which has -heretofore been under the partial jurisdiction of -the Hudson’s Bay Company. I say partially, -for the rights of that powerful monopoly, as I -understand the matter, extended only to the protection -and use of its wild animals; but it has -endeavoured to convince the would-be settler that it -was the sole proprietor of the immense domain, and -that he had no right to live thereon. Its posts -on the Saguenay and St. Lawrence, so far as -collecting furs is concerned, are a dead letter, and -the journeys of its distinguished Governor are -hereafter to be confined to the extreme north.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_182">182</div> -<p>The man who deserves the most credit for encroaching -upon the so-called possessions of the -Hudson’s Bay Company, and proving to the world -that its power is not without limit, is William -Price, Esq., of Quebec. All the saw-mills situated -on the Saguenay and the lower St. Lawrence, -were established by him, and are now conducted -at his expense. He gives employment to some -two or three thousand men, and sends to England -annually about one hundred ship-loads of lumber, -in the shape of deals. He is a thorough-going -business man, and, did I not know the fact to -be otherwise, I should set him down (with regard -to his enterprise) as a thorough native of the -Union. Many of the ships alluded to ascend the -Saguenay to obtain lumber, as far as Chicoutimi; -and it struck me as singularly paradoxical to see -ships winding up that river, whose legitimate home -would seem to be the broad ocean. The current -of the Saguenay flows in some places at the rate -of seven miles per hour; but when there is -any wind at all, it blows heavily directly from -the north or south, so that, with the assistance -of the tide, the upward-bound ships or brigs, -manage to get along without much difficulty. The -only steam-boat which navigates this river is the -Pocahontas, and is the property of Mr. Price. -<span class="pb" id="Page_183">183</span> -She is commanded by a gentleman who understands -his business; and I can assure the lovers of scenery -everywhere, that a sail up the Saguenay, in this -steamer, would be an event they could not easily -forget. For the benefit of summer tourists, I would -here mention the fact, that for about three months -in the year a Quebec steamer makes an occasional -trip to the mouth of the Saguenay, by the way -of the river Du Loup, which is on the Canadian -route to Halifax.</p> -<p>In speaking of the Saguenay, I must not omit -to mention its original proprietors, a tribe of -Indians who are known as the Mountaineers. Of -course, it is the duty of my pen to record the fact, -that where once flourished a large nation of brave -and heroic warriors, there now exists a little band -of about one hundred families. Judging from what -I have heard and seen, the Mountaineers were once -the very flower of this northern wilderness, even -as the Chippeways were once the glory of the -Lake Superior region. The Mountaineers of the -present day are sufficiently educated to speak a -smattering of French, but they know nothing of -the true God, and are as poor in spirit, as they -are indigent with regard to the necessaries of life. -The men of this nation are rather short, but well-formed, -and the women are beautiful. They are -<span class="pb" id="Page_184">184</span> -proud in spirit, intelligent, and kind-hearted; and -many of them, it is pleasant to know, are no longer -the victims of the baneful fire-water. For this -blessing they are indebted to the Romish priesthood, -which fact it gives me pleasure to record. -The Mountaineers are a particularly honest people, -and great friends to the stranger white-man. They -are also distinguished for their expertness in hunting, -and take pleasure in recording the exploits -of their forefathers. And their language, according -to a Catholic Missionary, Pierre de Roche, is one -of the oldest and purest Indian languages on the -continent. It abounds in Latin words, and is -capable of being regularly constructed and translated. -The qualities, in fine, which make the -history of this people interesting are manifold, and -it is sad to think of the rapidity with which they -are withering away, even as the leaves of a premature -autumn.</p> -<p>But it is time that I should give you a brief -description of Tadousac, where I have been spending -a few days, and whence I date my chapter. -The meaning of that word is a French corruption -of the Indian word Saguenay. It is situated directly -at the mouth of the Saguenay, and commands a -fine prospect of that river, as well as of the St. -Lawrence, which is here nearly thirty miles in -<span class="pb" id="Page_185">185</span> -width. Immediately at the base of the hill upon -which the hamlet stands, is a beautiful bay, hemmed -in with mountains of solid rock. The place is -composed of houses belonging to an Indian trading-post, -and another dwelling occupied by a worthy -Scotchman named Rivington, who is a pilot by -profession. The door of my friend’s cabin is always -open to the admission of the tourist; and if others -who may chance to stop here are treated as kindly -as I was, they will be disposed to thank their stars. -In front of the trading-post are planted a few -cannon, and directly beyond them, at the present -time, is a small Indian encampment.</p> -<p>In a rock-bound bay, about half a mile north -of my temporary residence, is an extensive lumbering -establishment, belonging to William Price. -This spot is the principal port of the Saguenay, -and the one where belongs the Pocahontas steam-boat. -About a dozen paces from the table where -I am now writing, is the ruin of a Jesuit religious -establishment, which is considered the great curiosity -of this region. The appearance of the ruin -is not imposing, as you can discover nothing but -the foundations upon which the ancient edifice -rested; but it is confidently affirmed, that upon -this spot once stood the first stone and mortar -building ever erected on the continent of North-America. -<span class="pb" id="Page_186">186</span> -And this statement I am not disposed -to question, for, from the very centre of the ruin -have grown a cluster of pine trees, which must -have been exposed to the wintry blasts of at least -two hundred years. The fate and the very names -of those who first pitched their tents in this wilderness, -and here erected an altar to the God of their -fathers, are alike unknown. Who—who can tell -what shall be on the morrow?</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_187">187</div> -<h2 id="c14">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Salmon—Salmon Adventures.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Tadousac. June.</span></p> -<p>I intend to devote the present letter to the -acknowledged king of all the finny tribes, the -lithe, wild, and beautiful salmon. He pays an -annual visit to all the tributaries of the St. Lawrence -lying between Quebec and Bic Island, (where -commences the Gulf of St. Lawrence), but he is -most abundant on the north shore, and in those -streams which are beyond the jurisdiction of civilization. -He usually makes his first appearance -about the twentieth of May, and continues in -season for two months. Nearly all the streams -of this region abound in waterfalls, but those are -seldom found, which the salmon does not surmount -in his “excelsior” pilgrimage; and the stories -<span class="pb" id="Page_188">188</span> -related of his leaps are truly wonderful. It is not -often that he is found <i>man bound</i> at the head -of the streams he may have ascended; but when -thus found and captured, his flesh is white, skin -black, and his form “long, lank, and lean as is -the rebbid sea-sand.” His weight is commonly -about fifteen pounds, but he is sometimes taken -weighing full forty pounds. The salmon is an -important article of export from this region, and -is also extensively used by the Indians. The -common mode for taking them is with a stationary -net, which is set just on the margin of the river -at low water. It is customary with the salmon -to ascend the St. Lawrence as near the shore as -possible, and their running time is when the tide -is high; the consequence is, that they enter the -net at one tide, and are taken out at another; -and it is frequently the case, that upwards of -three hundred are taken at one time. The Indian -mode for taking them is with the spear by torch-light. -Two Indians generally enter a canoe, and -while one paddles it noiselessly along, the other -holds forth the light (which attracts the attention -of the fish, and causes them to approach their -enemy), and pierces them with the cruel spear. -This mode of taking the salmon is to be deprecated, -but the savage must live, and possesses no -<span class="pb" id="Page_189">189</span> -other means for catching them. It is but seldom -that the Indian takes more than a dozen during -a single night, for he cannot afford to waste the -bounties which he receives from Nature. For preserving -the salmon, the Canadians have three -modes: first, by putting them in salt for three -days, and then smoking them; secondly, by regularly -salting them down as you would mackerel; -and, thirdly, by boiling, and then pickling them -in vinegar. The Indians smoke them, but only -to a limited extent.</p> -<p>I must now give you some account of my experience -in the way of salmon-fishing with the fly, -of which glorious sport I have recently had an -abundance. If, however, I should give you a -number of episodes, you will please to remember -that “it is my way,” and that I deem it a privilege -of the angler to be as wayward in his discourse -as are the channels of his favourite mountain -streams.</p> -<p>My first salmon expedition of the season was -to the St. Margaret River. I had two companions -with me; one an accomplished fly-fisher of Quebec, -and the other the principal man of Tadousac, a -lumber merchant. We went in a gig-boat belonging -to the latter, and, having started at nine -o’clock, we reached our place of destination by -<span class="pb" id="Page_190">190</span> -twelve. We found the river uncommonly high, -and a little rily. We made a desperate effort, -however, and threw the line about three hours, -capturing four salmon, only one of which was -it my privilege to take. He was a handsome -fellow, weighing seventeen pounds, and in good -condition; he afforded my companions a good -deal of fun, and placed me in a peculiar situation. -He had taken the hook when I was wading -in swift water up to my middle, and as soon as he -discovered his predicament, he made a sudden -wheel and started down the stream. My rod -bent nearly double, and I saw that I must give -him all the line he wanted; and having only three -hundred feet on my reel, I found it necessary to -follow him with all speed. In doing so I lost -my footing, and was swept by the current against -a pile of logs; meantime, my reel was in the -water and whizzing away at a tremendous rate. -The log upon which I depended, happened to be -in a balancing condition, and, when I attempted -to surmount it, it plunged into the current and -floated down the stream, having your humble -servant astride of one end, and clinging to it -with all his might. Onward went the salmon, -the log, and the fisherman. Finally, the log -found its way into an eddy of the river, and, -<span class="pb" id="Page_191">191</span> -while it was swinging about as if out of mere -malice, I left it, and fortunately reached the -shore. My life having been spared, I was more -anxious than ever to take the life of the salmon -which had caused the ducking, and so I held aloft -my rod, and continued down the stream over an -immense number of logs and rocks, which seemed -to have been placed there for my especial annoyance. -On coming in sight of my fish, I found -him in still water, with his belly turned upward -and completely drowned. I immediately drew -him on a sand-bank near by, and, while engaged -in the reasonable employment of drying my clothes, -my brother fishermen came up to congratulate -me upon my success, but laughing in the meantime -most heartily. The lumber merchant said, -that the log I had been riding belonged to him, -and it was his intention to charge me one shilling -for my passage from the rift where I had hooked -the salmon to the spot where I had landed him, -which was in full view of the Saguenay; and my -Quebec friend remarked, that he knew the people -of Yankee-land had a queer way of doing things, -but he was not acquainted with their peculiar -mode of taking salmon. As may be readily -imagined, we retraced our steps back to the log -shantee where we had stopped, and, having carefully -<span class="pb" id="Page_192">192</span> -stowed away our salmon, we laid aside our -fishing tackle, and made arrangements for a little -sport of another kind.</p> -<p>The hamlet of St. Margaret, where we spent the -night, contains some eight or ten log shantees, -which are occupied by about twenty families, composed -of Canadians, Indians, and half-breeds. They -obtain their living by “driving” logs, and are as -happy as they are ignorant. Anxious to see what -we could of society among this people, we sent -forth a manifesto calling upon the citizens generally -to attend a dance at the cabin of a certain man, -whom we had engaged to give the party at our -expense. Punctual to the appointed hour the -assembly came together. Many of the men did -not take the trouble even to wash their hands, -or put on a coat before coming to the party; but -the women were neatly dressed, with blue and -scarlet petticoats, over which were displayed night-gowns -of white cotton. The fiddler was an Indian, -and the dancing-hall (some twelve feet square) was -lighted with a wooden lamp, supplied with seal-oil. -The dance was without any particular method, -and when a gentleman wished to trip the light -fantastic toe, he only had to station himself on -the floor, when one of his friends would select -his partner, and lead her up for his acceptance. -<span class="pb" id="Page_193">193</span> -The consequence was, that if a man wished to -dance with any particular lady, he was obliged to -make a previous arrangement with his leading-up -friend. The fiddler not only furnished all the -music, but also performed a goodly portion of the -dancing—fiddling and dancing at the same time. -The supper was laid on the table at ten o’clock, -and consisted principally of dried beaver-tail and -cariboo meat, fried and boiled salmon, (which was -cooked out of doors near the entrance to the cabin), -rye-bread, maple molasses, and tea.</p> -<p>The party broke up at twelve o’clock; when we -retired to the cabin where we had secured lodgings, -and it is an actual fact, that our sleeping-room on -that night was occupied not only by ourselves, -but by two women, one man, and four children, -(divided into three beds), all members of the same -family, with whom we had succeeded in obtaining -<i>accommodations</i>. On the following morning we -rose at an early hour, and again tried our luck -at salmon-fishing, but only killed a few trout; -whereupon we boarded our gig and started down -the romantic Saguenay, telling stories and singing -songs.</p> -<p>Another river in this region which affords good -salmon fishing is the Esquemain. It empties itself -into the St. Lawrence about twenty miles east of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_194">194</span> -Saguenay. It is a cold, clear, and rapid stream, -abounding in rapids and deep pools. At its mouth -is situated a saw-mill, but its water-works are so -managed as not to interfere with the salmon. The -fish of this stream ascend to a great distance, -and, though rather small, are exceedingly abundant.</p> -<p>The best fishing in the river is at the foot of -a waterfall, which forms a sheet of foam, about one -mile above the mouth. My Quebec friend accompanied -me to this place, and, though we only threw -the fly about six hours (three in the evening and three -in the morning), yet we killed thirteen salmon, -without losing a single line, and with the loss -of only three flies.</p> -<p>Owing to the bushy shores of the stream, we -were compelled to fish standing upon boulders -situated in its centre; and whenever we hooked -a fish, there was no alternative but to plunge into -the current and trust to fortune. For some unaccountable -reason (of course it could not have -been our fault), we lost more than half of those we -hooked; but it was worth a moderate fortune to see -the magnificent leaps which the fish performed, not -only when they took the fly, but when they attempted -to escape. There was not one individual -that did not give us a race of at least half a mile. -The largest taken during this expedition was killed -<span class="pb" id="Page_195">195</span> -by my companion, and caused more trouble than -all his other prizes. Not only did this fellow -attempt to clear himself by stemming the foam -of a rapid, and rubbing his nose against a rock -to break the hook, but he also swept himself -completely round a large boulder, poked his head -into a net, and ran with the speed of lightning -to the extreme end of his line. It took my friend -forty minutes to land this salmon; and I can assure -you that he was particularly pleased when he found -that his fish weighed one pound more than the -largest I had taken. The fact was, our rods were -almost precisely alike in length and strength; and, -as two countries were represented in our persons, -the strife between us was desperate. I will acknowledge -that the Canada gentleman took the largest -salmon; but the States’ angler took them in the -greatest number.</p> -<p>Notwithstanding all the fine sport that we enjoyed -on the Esquemain, I am compelled to state -that it was more than counterbalanced by the -suffering that we endured from the black fly and -musquito. The black fly is about half as large -as the common house fly, and, though it bites -you only in the day-time, they are as abundant in -the air as the sand upon the sea-shore, and -venomous to an uncommon degree. The musquito -<span class="pb" id="Page_196">196</span> -of this region is an uncommonly gaunt, long-legged, -and hungry creature, and his howl is peculiarly -horrible.</p> -<p>We had been almost devoured by the black flies -during the afternoon, and as soon as darkness came, -we secured a couple of beds in a Frenchman’s -house, and as we tumbled in, congratulated ourselves -upon a little comfortable repose. It was -an exceedingly sultry night, and, though we were -both in a complete fever from the fly-poison circulating -in our veins, the heat excelled the fever, -and our bodies were literally in a melting condition. -We endeavoured to find relief by lying on the -bare floor, with no covering but a single sheet; and -this arrangement might have answered, had it not -been for the flood of musquitoes which poured into -the room, as one of us happened to open a window -to obtain fresh air. Every spot on our bodies, -which the flies had left untouched, was immediately -settled upon by these devils in miniature. They -pierced the very sheets that covered us, and sucked -away at our blood without any mercy.</p> -<p>Unwilling to depart this life without one effort -more to save it, we then dressed ourselves and -sauntered into the open air. We made our way -towards a pile of lumber near the saw-mill, and, -without a particle of covering, endeavoured to -<span class="pb" id="Page_197">197</span> -obtain a little sleep; but the insect hounds soon -found us out, and we bolted for another place. -Our course now lay towards the rude bridge which -spans the Esquemain, just above the mill. Our -intentions at the time, though not uttered aloud, I -verily believe were of a fearful character. On -reaching the bridge, however, a refreshing breeze -sprang up, and we enjoyed a brief respite from our -savage enemies.</p> -<p>We now congratulated each other on our good -fortune, and had just resolved to be happy, when -we discovered a number of Indians in the river -spearing salmon by torch-light; and as it was -after midnight, and the heathen were spearing on -our fishing-ground, we mournfully concluded that -our morning sport was at an end. But, while in -the very midst of this agreeable mood of mind, a -lot of skylarking musquitoes discovered our retreat, -and we were again besieged. We now endeavoured -to find relief on board the boat which had brought -us from the Saguenay, and here it was that we -spent the two last hours of that most miserable -night.</p> -<p>Though not exactly in a fitting condition to -throw the fly with any degree of comfort, we made -an effort after salmon in the morning, and succeeded -in killing a portion of the thirteen already -<span class="pb" id="Page_198">198</span> -mentioned. That we enjoyed the good breakfast -which we had prepared for our especial benefit, and -that we departed from Esquemain as soon as possible, -are facts which I consider self-evident.</p> -<p>The mouth of the Saguenay, as I have before -remarked, is completely hemmed in with barriers -of solid rock; and when the tide is flowing in, from -one of these points, first-rate salmon fishing may -occasionally be enjoyed. I have frequently had -the pleasure of throwing the fly on the point in -question, and on one occasion was so carried away -with the sport that I took no notice of the rising -tide. It was near the sunset hour, and on preparing -for my departure home, I discovered that I was -completely surrounded with water, and that my -situation was momentarily becoming more dangerous. -The water was bitter cold and turbulent, -and the channel which separated me from the main -shore was upwards of a hundred yards wide. I -was more than half a mile from the nearest dwelling, -and could not see a single sail on the Saguenay, -or the still broader St. Lawrence, excepting a -solitary ship, which was ten leagues away. My -predicament, I assure you, was not to be envied. -I could not entertain the idea that I should lose -my life; and, though I felt myself to be in danger, -my sensations were supremely ridiculous. But -<span class="pb" id="Page_199">199</span> -something, I was persuaded, must be done, and -that immediately; and so I commenced throwing -off my clothes for a final effort to save my life. -I had stripped off every thing but shirt and pantaloons, -and to a flock of crows which were cawing -above my head I must have presented an interesting -picture. I thought of the famous swimming adventures -of Leander and Lord Byron, and also -of the inconveniences of being drowned (as Charles -Lamb did of being hanged); but just as I was -about to make the important plunge, an Indian in -his canoe came gliding around a neighbouring point, -and I was rescued, together with one salmon and -some dozen pounds of trout.</p> -<p>But I have not finished my story yet. On the -night following this incident, I retired to bed in -rather a sober mood, for I could not banish the -recollection of my narrow escape from a ducking, if -not from a watery grave. The consequence was, -that in my dreams I underwent ten times as much -mental suffering as I had actually endured. I -dreamed that in scaling the rocks which lead to -the point alluded to, I lost my footing, and fell into -the water. While in this condition, drinking more -salt water than I wanted, floundering about like a -sick porpoise, gasping for breath, and uttering a -most doleful moan, I was suddenly awakened, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_200">200</span> -found my good landlord at my side, tapping me on -the shoulder, for the purpose of summoning me—from -the back of the nightmare I had been riding.</p> -<p>As I may not have another opportunity of -alluding to this portion of the Saguenay, and to the -rocky point already alluded to, I must give my -reader another and a remarkable incident connected -with them. Some years ago, the Hudson’s Bay -Company had in its employ as clerk, at Tadousac, -an intelligent and amiable young man, whose name -was McCray. For some unaccountable reason he -became deranged; and on one occasion, a cold and -stormy winter night, he took it into his head to -cross the Saguenay upon the floating ice, which was -running at the time. When first discovered, he -was about half-way across the stream, and making -frightful leaps of ten and fifteen feet from one -block of ice to another. His friends followed in -close pursuit, with a boat, as soon as possible; but -on reaching the opposite shore, the unhappy man -was not to be found. On the day following, -however, some people who were hunting for him -in the woods, discovered him perched in a tree, -almost frozen to death, and senseless as a clod -of the valley. He was taken home, the circulation -of his blood restored, and he is now an -inmate of the Quebec Lunatic Asylum. The mind -<span class="pb" id="Page_201">201</span> -of this worthy man was thought to be of a high -order; and it is certain that he possessed an -extensive knowledge of botany and geology. From -remarks that escaped him subsequently to the -wonderful feat he performed, it is supposed that, at -the time of starting across the river, he was thinking -of a particular book which he wished to obtain, -and had been told could be purchased in Quebec, -towards which place (unattainable by land) he had -set out. It is worthy of record, that poor McCray -is the only man who ever crossed the deep and -angry Saguenay on the ice, as it is never solidly -frozen; and it is almost certain, that the feat he -performed, can never be again repeated.</p> -<p>But to return to my piscatorial remarks. Next -to the salmon, the finest sporting fish of this region -is the trout. Of these I have seen two species, the -salmon and the common trout. Of the former I -believe there is but one variety; but that is an -exceedingly fine fish for sport or the table, and is -found in the lower tributaries of the St. Lawrence, -from five to fifteen pounds. They are taken chiefly -in the salt water, and possess a flavour which the -trout of our Western lakes do not. Of the common -trout, I have seen at least six varieties, differing, -however, only in colour; for some are almost -entirely white, others brown, some blue, some -<span class="pb" id="Page_202">202</span> -green, some black, and others yellow. These are -taken everywhere in the St. Lawrence, and in all its -tributaries. Those of the Saguenay are the largest, -most abundant, and of the rarest quality. Upon -the whole, I am inclined to set this river down -as affording the finest trout-fishing that I have ever -enjoyed, not even excepting that which I have -experienced at the Falls of St. Mary, in Michigan. -Almost every bay or cove in the Saguenay is -crowded with trout; and, generally speaking, the -rocks upon which you have to stand afford an abundance -of room to swing and drop the fly. In some -of the coves alluded to, I have frequently taken a -dozen two-pound trout during the single hour -before sunset.</p> -<p>Trout fishing, in this region, possesses a charm -which the angler seldom experiences in the rivers -and lakes of the United States, which consists in -his uncertainty as to the character of his prize -before he has landed him; for it may be a common -or salmon trout, or a regular built salmon, as these -fish all swim in the same water. It is reported of -a celebrated angler of Quebec, that he once spent a -week on the Esquemain, and captured within that -time seventy salmon, and upwards of a hundred -trout. This is a very strange story, but I have faith -enough to believe it true.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_203">203</div> -<p>And now for a few remarks upon the fish of the -St. Lawrence generally. Cod are taken to a very -great extent, and constitute an important article of -commerce. Herring and mackerel are abundant, -also the hallibut and sardine. Shad are also taken, -but not in sufficient quantities to export. The -lobster, flounder, and oyster are also found in this -river; and, with a few unimportant exceptions, these -are the only fish that flourish in this portion of the -great river. The sea-bass, the striped-bass, the -blue-fish, and the black-fish, for which I should -suppose these waters perfectly adapted, are entirely -unknown.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_204">204</div> -<h2 id="c15">CHAPTER XV.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Seal-hunting on the St. Lawrence—The white Porpoise.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Tadousac. July.</span></p> -<p>Before breakfast, this morning, I had the pleasure -of taking fifteen common trout, and the -remainder of the day I devoted to seal-hunting. -This animal is found in great abundance in the -St. Lawrence, and by the Indians and a few white -people is extensively hunted. There are several -varieties found in these waters; and the usual -market price for the oil and skin, is five dollars. -They vary in size from four to eight feet, and are -said to be good eating. Many people make them a -principal article of food; and while the Indians use -their skins for many purposes, they also light their -cabins with the oil. In sailing on the river, they -meet you at every turn; and when I first saw one, -I thought that I was looking upon a drowning -<span class="pb" id="Page_205">205</span> -man; for they only raise their heads out of the -water, and thus sustain themselves with their feet, -fins, pads, flippers, or whatever you may call them. -They live upon fish, and in many of their habits -closely resemble the otter. Their paws have five -claws, joined together with a thick skin; they -somewhat resemble the dog, and have a bearded -snout, like a cat, large bright eyes, and long sharp -teeth. They are a noisy animal, and when a number -of them are sunning themselves upon the sand, -the screams they utter are doleful in the extreme, -somewhat resembling the cry of children.</p> -<p>My first seal expedition was performed in company -with two professional hunters. We started -from shore with a yawl and a canoe, and made our -course for a certain spot in the St. Lawrence, where -the waters of the Saguenay and the flood tide came -together, and caused a terrible commotion. The -canoe led the way, occupied by one man, who was -supplied with a harpoon and a long line; while -the other hunter and myself came up in the rear, -for the purpose of rescuing the harpooner in case -an accident should happen, and also for the purpose -of shipping the plunder. The seal seems to delight -in frequenting the deepest water and more turbulent -whirlpools; and the object of using a canoe, is -to steal upon him in the most successful manner. -<span class="pb" id="Page_206">206</span> -We had not floated about the eddy more than -twenty minutes, before a large black animal made -his appearance, about ten feet from the canoe; -but, just as he was on the point of diving, the -hunter threw his harpoon, and gave him the line, to -which was attached a buoy. The poor creature -floundered about at a great rate, dived as far as -he could towards the bottom, and then leaped -entirely out of the water; but the cruel spear -would not loosen its hold. Finally, after making -every effort to escape, and tinging the surrounding -water with a crimson hue, he gasped for breath a -few times, and sunk to the end of the rope, quite -dead. We then pulled him to the side of the boat, -and with a gaff-hook secured him therein, and the -hunt was renewed. In this manner did my companions -capture no less than three seals, before the -hour of noon.</p> -<p>On one occasion, I noticed a large number of -seals, sunning themselves upon a certain sandy -point; and as I felt an “itching palm” to obtain, -with my own hands, the material for a winter cap, I -spent the afternoon in the enjoyment of a “shooting -frolic, all alone.” I borrowed a rifle of one of my -friends, and having passed over to the sandy point -in a canoe, I secreted myself in the midst of some -rocks, and awaited the game. I had not remained -<span class="pb" id="Page_207">207</span> -quiet but a short time before a huge black seal -made his appearance, scrambling up the beach, -where he kept a sharp look-out for anything that -might do him harm. I admired the apparent intelligence -of the creature, as he dragged his clumsy -and legless body along the ground, and almost -regretted that it was doomed to die. True to my -ridiculous nature, however, I finally determined to -leave him unmolested for the present, hoping that -he would soon be accompanied by one of his fellow -seals, and that I should have a chance of killing a -pair. I was not disappointed; and you will, therefore, -please to consider me in full view of one of the -finest marks imaginable, and in the attitude of -firing. Crack went the rifle; but my shot only had -the effect of temporarily rousing the animals; and I -proceeded to reload my gun, wondering at the cause -of my missing, and feeling somewhat dissatisfied -with matters and things in general. Again was it -my privilege to fire, and I saw a stick fly into the -air, about thirty feet to the left of my game. The -animals were, of course, not at all injured, but just -enough frightened to turn their faces towards the -water, into which they shortly plunged, and entirely -disappeared. I returned to my lodgings, honestly -told my story, and was laughed at for my pains and -<span class="pb" id="Page_208">208</span> -bad luck. It so happened, however, that the owner -of the gun imagined that something might be the -matter with the thing; and on examining it, he -found that one of the sights had been accidentally -knocked from its original position, which circumstance -had been the “cause of my anguish;” and, -though it restored to me my good name as a marksman, -it afforded me but little satisfaction.</p> -<p>But, that my chapter about seals may be worth -sealing, I will give you the history of an incident, -which illustrates the sagacity of an Indian in killing -his game. A Mik-mak hunter, with his family, -had reached the shore of the St. Lawrence, hungry -and short of ammunition. On a large sand-bank -which lay before him, at a time when the tide was -low, he discovered an immense number of seals. -He waited for the tide to flow and again to ebb, and -as soon as the sand appeared above the water, he hastened -to the dry point, in his canoe, carrying only a -hatchet as a weapon. On this spot he immediately -dug a hole, into which he crept, and covered himself -with a blanket. He then commenced uttering -a cry, in imitation of the seal, and in a short time -had collected about him a very large number of -those animals. He waited patiently for the tide to -retire so far that the animals would have to travel -<span class="pb" id="Page_209">209</span> -at least a mile by land before reaching the water; -and, when the wished-for moment arrived, he suddenly -fell upon the affrighted multitude, and with -his tomahawk, succeeded in slaughtering upwards of -one hundred. To many this may appear to be an -improbable story; but when it is remembered that -this amphibious animal is an exceedingly slow land -traveller, it will be readily believed. The manner -in which our hunter managed to save his game, was -to tie them together with bark, and when the tide -rose, tow them to the main shore.</p> -<p>Since I have brought my reader upon the waters -of the St. Lawrence, I will not permit him to go -ashore until I have given him an account of another -inhabitant of the deep which is found in very great -abundance, not only in this river, but also in the -Saguenay. I allude to the white porpoise. The -shape of this creature is similar to that of the whale, -though of a pure white colour, and usually only -about fifteen feet in length. They are exceedingly -fat, and yield an oil of the best quality; while the -skin is capable of being turned into durable leather. -They are extensively used as an article of food: the -fins and tail when pickled are considered a delicacy; -and their value is about twenty-five dollars a piece. -They are far from being a shy fish; and, when -<span class="pb" id="Page_210">210</span> -sailing about your vessel in large numbers, as is -often the case, they present a beautiful and unique -appearance.</p> -<p>For taking this fish the people of this region -have two methods. The first is to use a boat with -a white bottom, behind which the fisherman tows a -small wooden porpoise, which is painted a dark -slate-colour, in imitation of the young of the -species. With these lures the porpoise is often -brought into the immediate vicinity of the harpoon, -which is invariably thrown with fatal precision. -In this manner an expert man will often take three -or four fine prizes in a day.</p> -<p>Another mode for taking these creatures is by -fencing them in. It appears that it is customary -for this fish to wander over the sand-bars, at high-water, -for the purpose of feeding. Profiting by -this knowledge, the fishermen enclose one of the -sandy reefs with poles set about three feet apart, -and sometimes covering a square mile. They leave -an appropriate opening for the porpoises, which are -sure to enter at high-water, and, owing to their -timidity, they are kept confined by the slender -barrier until the tide ebbs, when they are destroyed -in great numbers with very little trouble. It is -reported that a party of fishermen, some ninety -<span class="pb" id="Page_211">211</span> -miles above the Saguenay, once took one hundred -and forty porpoises at one tide; and it is also -asserted, that in dividing the spoil the fishermen -had a very bitter quarrel—since which time, as the -story goes, not a single porpoise has ever been -taken on the shoal in question.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_212">212</div> -<h2 id="c16">CHAPTER XVI.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Esquimaux Indians of Labrador.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Tadousac. July.</span></p> -<p>The vast region of country lying on the north -shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and extending to -the eastward of the Saguenay as far as Newfoundland, -is generally known under the name of Labrador. -It is an exceedingly wild and desolate region, -and, excepting an occasional fishing hamlet or a -missionary station belonging to the worthy Moravians, -its only inhabitants are Indians. Of these -the more famous tribes are the Red Indians, (now -almost extinct,) the Hunting Indians, the Mik-maks, -and the Esquimaux. The latter nation is by -far the most numerous, and it is said that their -sway extends even to the coasts of Hudson’s Bay. -They are, at the same time, the wildest and most -<span class="pb" id="Page_213">213</span> -rude inhabitants of this wilderness, and in appearance, -as well as manners and customs, closely -resemble the inhabitants of Greenland.</p> -<p>During one of my nautical expeditions down the -St. Lawrence, I chanced to be wind-bound for a -couple of days at the mouth of a river on the -north shore, where I found a small encampment -of Esquimaux Indians. The principal man of the -party was exceedingly aged, and the only one who -could convey his thoughts in any other language -than his own. He had mingled much with the -French fur-traders of the north, and the French -fishermen of the east, and possessed a smattering of -their tongue. Seated by the side of this good old -man in his lodge, with a moose-skin for my seat, -a pack of miscellaneous furs to lean against, and a -rude seal-oil torch suspended over my head, I spent -many hours of one long-to-be-remembered night in -questioning him about his people. The substance -of the information I then collected it is now my -purpose to record;—but it should be remembered -that I speak of the nation at large, and not of any -particular tribe.</p> -<p>According to my informant, the extent of the -Esquimaux nation is unknown, for they consider -themselves as numerous as the waves of the sea. -Much has been done to give them an education, -<span class="pb" id="Page_214">214</span> -and, though missionaries of the Cross have dwelt -among them for about a century, yet the majority -of this people are at the present time in heathen -darkness. The men are chiefly employed in hunting -and fishing, and the domestic labour is all performed -by the women. Their clothes are made in -the rudest manner imaginable, and generally of the -coarser skins which they secure in hunting. They -believe in a Supreme Being, who has a dwelling-place -in the earth, the air, and the ocean, and who -is both good and evil; and they also believe in the -immortality of the soul, which they describe as -similar to air, which they cannot feel. Their principal -men are magicians and conjurors, distinguished, -as I infer with good reason, for their profligacy. -Whenever a man is sick, they attribute the cause to -the alleged fact that his soul has departed from his -body, and he is looked upon with contempt and -pity. The first man who came into the world -sprang from the bosom of a beautiful valley; in -this valley he spent his infancy and childhood, -feeding upon berries; and having on a certain -occasion picked up a flower which drooped over -one of his accustomed paths, it immediately became -changed into a girl with flowing hair, who became -his playmate, and afterwards his wife, and was the -mother of all living. They believe in a heaven and -<span class="pb" id="Page_215">215</span> -a hell, and consider that the road to the former is -rugged and rocky, and that to the latter level and -covered with grass. Their ideas of astronomy are -peculiar, for they consider the sun, moon, and stars -as so many of their ancestors, who have, for a great -variety of reasons, been lifted to the sky and become -celestial bodies. In accounting for the two former, -they relate that there was once a superb festival -given by the Esquimaux in a glorious snow-palace -of the north, where were assembled all the young -men and maidens of the land. Among them was -a remarkably brave youth, who was in love with an -exceedingly beautiful girl. She, however, did not -reciprocate this attachment, and endeavoured by all -the means in her power to escape from his caresses. -To accomplish this end, she called upon the Great -Spirit to give her a pair of wings; and, having -received them, she flew into the air and became the -moon. The youth also endeavoured to obtain a -pair of wings, and, after many months, finally -succeeded; and, on ascending to the sky, he became -the sun. The moon, they say, has a dwelling-place -in the west, and the sun another in the far -east. They account for thunder and lightning by -giving the story of two women who lived together -in a wigwam, and on one occasion had a most -furious battle. During the affray the cabin tumbled -<span class="pb" id="Page_216">216</span> -in upon them, causing a tremendous noise, while -the women were so angry that their eyes flashed -fire. Rain, they say, comes from a river in the sky, -which, from the great number of people who sometimes -bathe in it, overflows its banks, and thus -comes to the earth in showers.</p> -<p>When one of their friends has departed this life, -they take all his property and scatter it upon the -ground, outside of his cabin, to be purified by the -air; but then in the evening they collect it -together, and bury it by the side of his grave. -They think it wrong for the men to mourn for -their friends, and consider themselves defiled if they -happen to touch the body of the deceased; and the -individual who usually performs the office of undertaker -is considered unclean for many days after -fulfilling his duty. The women do all the wailing -and weeping; and during their mourning season, -which corresponds with the fame of the deceased, -they abstain from food, wear their hair in great -disorder, and refrain from every ablution. When -a friendless man dies, his body is left upon the hills -to decay, as if he had been a beast. When their -children die, they bury the body of a dead dog in the -same grave, that the child may have a guide in his -pathway to an unknown land, to which they suppose -all children go.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_217">217</div> -<p>Polygamy, as such, among the Esquimaux is -practised only to a limited extent; but married -men and women are not over-scrupulous in their -love affairs. Unmarried women, however, observe -the rules of modesty with peculiar care; and the -maiden who suffers herself to be betrayed is looked -upon with infamy. When a young man wishes to -marry, he first settles the matter with his intended, -and then, having asked and obtained her father’s -permission, he sends two old women to bring the -lady to his lodge, and they are considered one. -The Esquimaux mother is fond of her children, and -never chastises them for any offence. Children are -taught to be dutiful to their parents, and until -they marry they always continue under the paternal -roof.</p> -<p>The amusements of the Esquimaux do not differ -materially from those of the Indian tribes generally. -They are fond of dancing, playing ball, and a -species of dice game; while the women know of no -recreation but that of dancing and singing.</p> -<p>And thus ends my mite of information respecting -one of the most extensive aboriginal nations of -the far north.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_218">218</div> -<h2 id="c17">CHAPTER XVII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Habitans of Canada.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">River du Loup. July.</span></p> -<p>Since my last chapter, written on the banks of the -Saguenay, I have completed my pilgrimage through -Lower Canada, but before leaving the province, -I will give you the result of my observations -respecting some of its people. These are divided -into three classes—the descendants of the French -colonists, (commonly called “Habitans,”) the British -settlers, and the Indian tribes.</p> -<p>The Habitans, of whom I am now to speak, -are the most numerous, and so peculiar in their -appearance and manners as to attract the particular -attention of travellers. The men are usually tall -and slender, of sinewy build, and with a dark brown -complexion; the girls are black-eyed, and disposed -<span class="pb" id="Page_219">219</span> -to be beautiful; while the women are always -dumpy, but good-looking. Their dress is similar -to that of the French peasantry; the men wear -the old-fashioned <i>capote</i> on their heads, every -variety of fantastic caps and hats, and on their feet -a moccassin made of cow-hide; the women wear -jackets or mantelets, which are made of bright -colours, and on their heads either a cap or a -straw hat, made in the gipsey fashion. Occasionally -they make an effort to imitate the English -in their dress, and at such times invariably appear -ridiculous.</p> -<p>As a class, they are devoted principally to agriculture; -but as their opportunities for obtaining -instruction are exceedingly limited, their knowledge -of the art of husbandry is precisely what it was -one hundred years ago. They seem to be entirely -destitute of enterprise, and tread in the beaten -steps of their fathers. They who live in the -vicinity of Montreal and Quebec, generally supply -those markets with vegetables; but those who -reside in the more obscure parts, seem to be quite -satisfied if they can only manage to raise enough -off of their farms for the purpose of carrying them -through the year. They are partial to rye bread, -and never consider it in a cooking condition until it -has been soured by age; and their standard dish, -<span class="pb" id="Page_220">220</span> -which they make use of on all occasions, is a -plain pea-soup. The consequence is, that the pea -is extensively cultivated.</p> -<p>You seldom find a farmer who is so poor as -not to be able to sell from five to fifty bushels -of wheat, and this article he appropriates to the -same uses that most people do their money. Their -plough is distinguished for its rudeness, and their -farming implements generally would not be creditable -even to a barbarous people. If an individual -happens to have a stony field, the idea -does not enter his head that he might build a -fence with those very stones, and the consequence -is, that he piles them in one immense heap in -the centre of the field, and draws his rails a -distance of perhaps two miles. But with all their -ignorance of agriculture, the Habitans are sufficiently -careful to make their little farms yield -them all the necessaries they require, particularly -their clothing and shoes, their candles, soap, and -sugar.</p> -<p>There are but few professional mechanics among -them, and the dwelling of the peasant is almost -invariably the production of his own individual -labour. Their houses are distinguished for pictorial -beauty, always one story high, and generally neatly -whitewashed. Their cattle are small, and, owing -<span class="pb" id="Page_221">221</span> -to their neglect in feeding and protecting them, -are exceedingly poor. Their horses are nothing -but ponies, but distinguished for their toughness. -The Habitans are partial to the luxury of riding, -and their common vehicle is a rough two-wheeled -cart, and occasionally a calash.</p> -<p>The turn-out which I employed for travelling -in the settled parts of Canada was a fair specimen -of the class: the cost of the horse (four -feet and a half high) was twenty dollars, and -the cart (made entirely of wood) was four dollars. -My coachman was a Habitan, and, in driving -over a hilly road on a certain day, I had a fine -opportunity of studying the conflicting traits of -character which distinguish the race.</p> -<p>Whenever he wanted his horse to go fast, he -pulled the reins with all his might, and continued -to utter a succession of horrible yells. He invariably -ran his animal up the hills, and deliberately -walked him down. When angry at his unoffending -beast, he showered upon his head a variety of -oaths, which might be translated as follows: “infernal -hog!” “black toad!” and “hellish dog!” -and yet, when the animal was about to drop to -the ground from fatigue and heat, he would caress -him, and do every thing in his power to restore -the animal and ease his own conscience.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_222">222</div> -<p>I first employed this man to bring me to this -place, and said nothing about continuing my -journey. On ascertaining, however, that I was -bound further down the St. Lawrence, he volunteered -his services, and I employed him, although -he had informed his wife that he would positively -return on the night of the day he left her. I -retained him in my employ for two days, and was -particularly struck with the anxiety he manifested -concerning the disappointment of his wife. He -alluded to the impropriety of his conduct at least a -dozen times, and usually added: “But you give me -plenty of money, (it was only six dollars for taking me -forty miles,) and I will buy something pretty for my -wife, which will make her very glad—I guess she -won’t be sorry.” I asked him what it was that -he intended to purchase, and his answer was, “some -riband, a pair of scissors, with some needles, and a -calico dress.” Who can deny that it is not pleasant -to study the sunshine of the human heart, “by -which we live?”</p> -<p>The Habitans profess the Roman Catholic religion -with much zeal. Among them I believe -may be found many worthy Christians; but they -manifest their religious devotion in many peculiar -ways. They are fond of social intercourse, and -spend a great portion of their time in visiting -<span class="pb" id="Page_223">223</span> -each other. They reluctantly establish themselves -beyond the sound of a chapel bell, and I positively -believe that they spend more than half of their -time in performing mass and in horse-racing.</p> -<p>The Sabbath is their great holiday, and always -decidedly the noisiest day of the week. Their -general deportment, however, is inoffensive, and -often highly praiseworthy. They are seldom guilty -of committing atrocious crimes, and do not often -engage in personal conflicts, which are so prevalent -in the United States. They treat all men with -kindness, and in their language and manners are -remarkably polite. The little girl, playing with -her doll in her father’s door, would think her -conduct highly improper should she omit to drop -you a courtesy as you passed along; and even -the rude boy, when playing ball or driving his -team, invariably takes off his hat to salute the -traveller.</p> -<p>The Habitans are particularly fond of the river -St. Lawrence, and their settlements extend from -Montreal about two hundred miles with the river -on the north shore, and perhaps three hundred -and fifty miles on the southern shore. Their -principal roads run parallel with the river, are about -half a mile apart, and generally completely lined -with rural dwellings.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_224">224</div> -<p>The political opinions of the Habitans are extremely -liberal, and not much in accordance with -the spirit of Canadian institutions. They hate -England by nature and the advice of their priesthood, -and scruple not to declare themselves actually -in love with what they call the American Government. -They complain that Englishmen treat them -as if they were slaves, while the people of the -United States always hail them as brothers. They -are an unlettered race, but believe that their -condition would be much happier were they the -subjects of a President instead of a Queen. That -is a matter I consider questionable.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_225">225</div> -<h2 id="c18">CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Grand Portage into New Brunswick—Lake Timiscouta—The -Madawaska River.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">On the Madawaska. July.</span></p> -<p>The traveller, who would go from Quebec to -Halifax by the recently established Government -route, will have to take a steamer for one hundred -and twenty miles down the great river, and cross the -Grand Portage road which commences at River Du -Loup, and extends to Lake Timiscouta, a distance of -thirty-six miles.</p> -<p>With the village of Du Loup I was well pleased. -It contains about twelve hundred inhabitants, and -a more general mixture of English, Scotch, and -French than is usually found in the smaller towns of -Canada. The place contains an Episcopal Church, -which must be looked upon as a curiosity in this -Roman Catholic country, for it is the only one, I -believe, found eastward of Quebec. The situation -<span class="pb" id="Page_226">226</span> -of the village is romantic to an uncommon degree. -It commands an extensive prospect of the St. -Lawrence, which is here upwards of twenty miles -wide, and bounded on the opposite shore by a -multitude of ragged mountains. The river is studded -with islands, and ships are constantly passing hither -and thither over the broad expanse, and when, -from their great distance, all these objects are -constantly enveloped in a gauze-like atmosphere, -there is a magic influence in the scenery. The -principal attraction is a waterfall, about a mile in -the rear of the village. At this point, the waters -of the rapid and beautiful Du Loup dance joyously -over a rocky bed, until they reach a picturesque -precipice of perhaps eighty or a hundred feet, over -which they dash in a sheet of foam, and, after -forming an extensive and shadowy pool, glide -onward through a pleasant meadow, until they -mingle with the waters of the St Lawrence.</p> -<p>But as I intend to take you over the Grand -Portage, it is time that we should be off. The first -ten miles of this road are dotted with the box-looking -houses of the Canadian peasantry; but the -rest of the route leads you up mountains and down -valleys, which are all as wild and desolate as when -first created. The principal trees of the forest are -pine, spruce and hemlock, and the foundation of -<span class="pb" id="Page_227">227</span> -the country seems to be granite. This region is -watered by many sparkling streams, which contain -trout in great abundance. The only curiosity on -the road is of a geological character, and struck me -as something remarkable. Crossing the road, and -running in a northerly direction, and extending -to the width of about two miles, is a singular bed -of granite boulders. The rocks are of every size -and form, and while from a portion of them rises a -scanty vegetation, other portions are destitute of -even the common moss. In looking upon this -region, the idea struck me that I was passing -through the bed of what was once a mighty river, -but whose fountains had become for ever dry. This -is only one, however, of the unnumbered wonders of -the world, which are constantly appearing to puzzle -the philosophy of man.</p> -<p>In passing over the Grand Portage, the traveller -has to resort to a conveyance which presents a -striking contrast with the usual national works of -her Ladyship, the Queen. It is the same establishment -which conveys the Royal Mail from Quebec -to Halifax, and consists of a common Canadian -cart, a miserable Canadian pony, and a yet more -miserable Canadian driver. Such is “the way -they order things in Canada,” which, I fancy, is -not exactly the way they do in France. The Grand -<span class="pb" id="Page_228">228</span> -Portage Road itself is all that one could desire, -and as there is a good deal of summer and winter -travelling upon it, it is surprising that the Government -cannot afford a more comfortable conveyance.</p> -<p>The eastern termination of the Grand Portage -road, is at Lake Timiscouta, where is situated a -pleasant hamlet of Canadians, and a picketed fort, -which is now abandoned. The views from this spot -are unique and exceedingly beautiful, particularly a -western view of the lake, when glowing beneath the -rays of the setting sun. The Indian word, Timiscouta, -signifies the winding water, and accurately -describes the lake, which has a serpentine course, -twenty-four miles long, and from two to three wide. -Excepting the cluster of houses already mentioned, -there is not a single cabin on the whole lake; and -the surrounding mountains, which are, perhaps, a -thousand feet high, are the home of solitude and -silence. The only vessels which navigate this lake -are Indian canoes, paddled by Canadians. Not -only does the isolated settler depend upon them for -the transportation of his provisions, but even the -English nobleman, when travelling in this region, -finds it necessary to sit like a tailor in their straw-covered -bottoms.</p> -<p>The only outlet to Lake Timiscouta, is the Madawaska -<span class="pb" id="Page_229">229</span> -River, which is but a contraction of the same -water, but reduced to the width of a stone’s throw, -and leading to the St. John’s, a distance of some -forty miles. The meaning of Madawaska, as I am -informed, is, <i>never frozen</i>; and the river obtained -this name from the fact that certain portions, on -account of the current, are never ice-bound. The -scenery of the river is precisely similar to that of -its parent lake, only that it is occasionally a little -cultivated. The waters of both are clear, but not -very deep or cold. They abound with fish, of -which the common trout, the perch, and pickerel, -(not pike), are the more valuable varieties.</p> -<p>The manner in which I sailed through Timiscouta -and Madawaska, was exceedingly pleasant, if -not peculiar and ridiculous. My canoe was manned -by a couple of barbarous Canadians; and while they -occupied the extreme stern and bow, I was allowed -the “largest liberty” in the body thereof. It was -an exceedingly hot day when I passed through; -and having stripped myself of nearly all my -clothing, I rolled about at my own sweet will, not -only for the purpose of keeping cool, but that I -might do a good business in the way of killing time. -At one moment I was dipping my feet and hands in -the water, “humming a lightsome tune of yore,” -<span class="pb" id="Page_230">230</span> -and anon sketching the portrait of a mountain or a -group of trees. Now I lay flat upon my back; and -while I watched the fantastic movements of the -clouds, as they crossed the blue of heaven, I -attended to the comforts of the inner man, by -sucking maple sugar. Now I called upon the boat-men -to sing me a song: and while they complied -with my request, I fixed myself in the poetical -attitude of a Turk, and smoked a cigar. At one -time we halted at a mountain spring, to obtain a -refreshing drink; and at another, the men pulled -up to some rocky point, that I might have the -pleasure of throwing the fly. Thus “pleasantly the -days of Thalaba went by.”</p> -<p>My voyage down the Madawaska was not without -a characteristic incident. There was a fleet of -canoes descending at the same time; some of them -laden with women and babies, and some with furs, -tin kettles, and the knapsacks of home-bound lumbermen. -Two of the canoes were managed by a -Canadian and a Scotchman, who seemed to cherish a -deep-rooted passion for racing. They paddled a -number of heats; and as they were alternately -beaten, they both finally became angry, and began -to bet extravagantly. The conclusion of the whole -matter was, that they went ashore on a bushy -<span class="pb" id="Page_231">231</span> -point, among the mountains, and settled their difficulty -by a “private fight.” They fought like brave -men, “long and well;” and by the time one had a -tooth knocked out of his head, and the other had -nearly lost an eye, they separated, and quietly -resumed their way. These were the only wild -animals that I saw in the Madawaska wilderness.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_232">232</div> -<h2 id="c19">CHAPTER XIX.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Acadians.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Mouth of the Madawaska. July.</span></p> -<p>At the junction of the rivers Madawaska and -St. John, and extending for some miles down the -latter, is a settlement of about three hundred -Acadians. How these people came by the name -they bear, I do not exactly understand; but of their -history I remember the following particulars. In -the year 1755, during the existence of the Colonial -difficulties between England and France, there -existed, in a remote section of Nova Scotia, about -fifteen thousand Acadians. Aristocratic French -blood flowed in their veins, and they were a peaceful -and industrious race of husbandmen. Even after -the Government of England had become established -in Canada, they cherished a secret attachment for -<span class="pb" id="Page_233">233</span> -the laws of their native country. But this was -only a feeling; and they continued in the peaceful -cultivation of their lands. In process of time, however, -three titled Englishmen, named Lawrence, -Boscawen, and Mostyn, held a council, and formed -the hard-hearted determination of driving this people -from their homes, and scattering them to the four -quarters of the globe. Playing the part of friends, -this brotherhood of conquerors and heroes sent word -to the Acadians, that they must all meet at a certain -place on business which deeply concerned their -welfare.</p> -<p>Not dreaming of their impending fate, the poor -Acadians met at the appointed place, and were there -informed of the fact, that their houses and lands -were forfeited, and that they must leave the country, -to become wanderers in strange and distant lands. -They sued for mercy, but the iron yoke of a Christian -nation was laid more heavily upon their necks, -in answer to that prayer, and they were driven from -home and country; and as they sailed from shore, -or entered the wilderness, they saw in the distance, -ascending to heaven, the smoke of all that they had -loved and lost. Those who survived, found an -asylum in the United States, and in the more -remote portions of the British Empire; and when, -after the war, they were invited to return to their -<span class="pb" id="Page_234">234</span> -early home, only thirteen hundred were known to -be in existence. It is a remnant of this very people -who, with their descendants, are now the owners of -the Madawaska settlement; and it is in an Acadian -dwelling that I am now penning this paper.</p> -<p>But, owing to their many misfortunes (I would -speak in charity), the Acadians have degenerated -into a more ignorant and miserable people than are -the Canadian French, whom they closely resemble -in their appearance and customs. They believe the -people of Canada to be a nation of knaves, and the -people of Canada know them to be a half savage -community. Worshipping a miserable priesthood -is their principal business; drinking and cheating -their neighbours, their principal amusement. They -live by tilling the soil; and are content, if they can -barely make the provision of one year take them to -the entrance of another. They are, at the same -time, passionate lovers of money, and have brought -the science of fleecing strangers to perfection. -Some of them, by a life of meanness, have succeeded -in accumulating a respectable property; but -all the money they obtain is systematically hoarded. -It is reported of the principal man of this place, -that he has in his house, at the present moment, -the sum of 10,000 dollars, in silver and gold; and -yet this man’s children are as ignorant of the alphabet -<span class="pb" id="Page_235">235</span> -as the cattle upon the hills. But, with all their -ignorance, the Acadians are a happy people; but it -is the happiness of a mere animal nature.</p> -<p>The scenery of this place, which does not seem -to possess a name, is most agreeable, but its -attractive features are of an architectural nature. -The first is a block-house, and the second a -Catholic church.</p> -<p>The block-house occupies the summit of a commanding -and rocky knoll, and was built at a cost -of nearly five thousand dollars, for the purpose of -defending this portion of New Brunswick, during -the existence of the late Boundary difficulty. The -edifice is built of stone and timber, and may be -described as a square box, placed upon another and -a larger one, in a triangular fashion; the width -may be thirty feet, and height one hundred and -fifty. It is well supplied with port-holes; entered -by a wooden flight of stairs, and covered with a tin -roof. It contains two stories, besides a well-filled -magazine. It is abundantly supplied with guns -and cannon, and almost every variety of shot, shells, -and balls. It was once occupied by three military -companies, (about all that it could possibly hold) -but the only human being who now has anything -to do with it is a worthy man who officiates as -keeper.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_236">236</div> -<p>The panorama which this fortress overlooks is -exceedingly picturesque, embracing both the valley -of the Madawaska and that of St. John, which fade -away amid a multitude of wild and uncultivated -mountains. When first I looked upon this block-house, -it struck me as being a most ridiculous -affair; but, on further examination, I became convinced -that it could not be taken without the shedding -of much blood.</p> -<p>Of the church to which I alluded, I have only to -remark that it is a very small, and apparently a -venerable structure, built of wood, painted yellow, -with a red steeple. It is pleasantly situated amid -a cluster of rude cabins, on the margin of the St. -John, and in the immediate vicinity of a racecourse. -It was my fate to spend a Sabbath in this -Madawaska settlement. As a matter of course, I -attended church. The congregation was large, and -composed entirely of Acadians, decked out in the -most ridiculous gew-gawish dresses imaginable. -I noticed nothing extraordinary on the occasion, -only that at the threshold of the church was a kind -of stand, where a woman was selling sausages and -small beer. The services were read in Latin, and -a sermon preached in French, which contained -nothing but the most common-place advice, and -that all of a secular character. At the conclusion -<span class="pb" id="Page_237">237</span> -of the service the male portion of the congregation -gradually collected together on the neighbouring -green, and the afternoon was devoted to horse-racing, -the swiftest horse belonging to the loudest -talker and heaviest stake-planter, and that man -was—a disciple of the Pope, and the identical -priest whom I had heard preach in the morning. -It will be hard for you to believe this; but I have -written the truth, as well as my last line, about the -Acadian Settlement on the Madawaska.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_238">238</div> -<h2 id="c20">CHAPTER XX.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Sail down the Madawaska—The Falls of the St. John.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Falls of the St. John. July.</span></p> -<p>In coming to this place from the north, the -traveller finds it necessary to descend the river St. -John in a canoe. The distance from Madawaska is -thirty-six miles, and the day that I passed down -was delightful in the extreme. My canoe was only -about fifteen feet long, but my <i>voyageur</i> was an expert -and faithful man, and we performed the trip without -the slightest accident.</p> -<p>The valley of this portion of the river is mountainous, -and its immediate banks vary from fifteen -to thirty feet in height. The water is very clear -and rapid, but of a brownish colour, and quite -warm, varying in depth from three to thirty feet, -and the width is about a quarter of a mile. That -<span class="pb" id="Page_239">239</span> -portion of the stream (say some seventy miles of its -source) which belongs exclusively to the United -States, runs through a fertile and beautiful country, -abounds in waterfalls and rapids, and is yet a -wilderness. That portion which divides the United -States from New Brunswick, is somewhat cultivated, -but principally by a French population. Owing to -the fact that the farms all face the river, and are -very narrow, (but extend back to the distance of -two and three miles) the houses have all been -erected immediately on the river, so that, to the -casual observer, the country might appear to be -thickly inhabited, which is far from being the case. -The principal business done on the river is the -driving of logs and timber for the market of St. -John; and, excepting the worthy and hard working -lumbermen who toil in the forests, the people are -devoted to the tilling of their land, and are precisely -similar to the Acadians in their manners and -customs, and probably from the same stock. There -is a miniature steam-boat on the river, but as the -unnumbered canoes of the inhabitants are engaged in -a kind of opposition line, the fiery little craft would -seem to have a hard time. In navigating the river, -the <i>voyageurs</i> paddle down stream, but use a pole in -ascending; and two smart men, gracefully swinging -their poles, and sending their little vessel rapidly -<span class="pb" id="Page_240">240</span> -against the current, taken in connection with the -pleasant scenery of the river, present an agreeable -and novel sight.</p> -<p>We started from Madawaska at four o’clock in -the morning, and having travelled some twenty -miles, we thought we would stop at the first nice-looking -tavern on the shore, (for about every other -dwelling is well supplied with liquor, and consequently -considered a tavern) for the purpose of -obtaining breakfast. Carefully did we haul up our -canoe, and having knocked at the cabin-door, were -warmly welcomed by a savage-looking man, whose -face was completely besmeared with milk, and also -by a dirty-looking woman, a couple of dirty legged -girls, and a young boy. The only furniture in the -room was a bed and a small cupboard, while the -fire-place was without a particle of fire. In one -corner of the room was a kind of bar, where the boy -was in attendance, and seemed to be the spokesman -of the dwelling. We asked him if we could have -some breakfast, and he promptly replied that we -could.</p> -<p>“What can you give us?” was my next question.</p> -<p>“Anything you please,” replied the boy in broken -English.</p> -<p>“We’ll take some ham and eggs, then.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_241">241</div> -<p>“We havn’t any, only some eggs.”</p> -<p>“We’ll take some bread and milk.”</p> -<p>“We havn’t any bread, but plenty of milk.”</p> -<p>“Havn’t you any kind of meat?”</p> -<p>“No, plenty of <i>rum</i>! What’ll you have?”</p> -<p>I could stand this no longer, and having expressed -my displeasure at the ignorance of the boy, and -condemned his father for pretending to keep a -tavern, I gave the former a sixpence, and took -half-a-dozen eggs, with which we returned to our -canoe.</p> -<p>While I was fixing my seat in the boat, and -commenting upon wilderness hospitality, my companion -amused himself by swallowing four of the -purchased eggs in a leather cup of brandy. In -two hours after this little adventure, our little -canoe was moored above the Falls of the St. -John, and we were enjoying a first rate breakfast, -prepared by the lady of a Mr. Russell, who -keeps a comfortable house of entertainment in this -place.</p> -<p>After I had finished my cigar and enjoyed a resting -spell, I pocketed my sketch-book, and spent the -entire day examining the scenery of the falls. After -making a broad and beautiful sweep, the river St. -John here forms a sudden turn, and becoming contracted -to the width of about fifty yards, the waters -<span class="pb" id="Page_242">242</span> -make a plunge of perhaps forty feet, which is mostly -in a solid mass, though rather disposed to form the -third of a circle from shore to shore. Below this pitch, -and extending for about two miles, is a continued -succession of falls, which make the entire descent -upwards of eighty feet. The water rushes through -what might be termed a winding chasm, whose walls -are perhaps one hundred and fifty or two hundred -feet high, and perpendicular.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p261.jpg" alt="" width="429" height="309" /> -<p class="caption">FALLS OF ST. JOHN.</p> -</div> -<p>Generally speaking, the entire distance from the -first fall to the last, presents a perfect sheet of -foam, though around every jutting point is a black -and apparently bottomless pool, which, when I -peered into them, were alive with salmon, -<span class="pb" id="Page_243">243</span> -leaping into the air or swimming on the margin -of the foam. On the western side of the Falls, -to a great extent, the original forest has been -suffered to remain, and a walk through their -shadowy recesses is an uncommon treat; and on this -side also is the ruin of an old saw-mill, which, for -a wonder, actually adds to the picturesque beauty of -the spot. On the eastern side of the Falls is a commanding -hill, which has been stripped of its forest, -and now presents a stump-field of three hundred -acres. It is a desolate spot, but in strict keeping -with the enterprise of the province. The expense of -clearing, or rather half clearing the hill in question, -was six thousand dollars, and it was the original -intention of the mother-government to erect thereon -an extensive fortress; but owing to the birth of a -sensible reflection, the idea was abandoned. The -barracks of the place as they now exist, consist of -two log-houses, which are occupied by a dozen -sprigs of the British army. And thus endeth my -account of the most picturesque spot in New -Brunswick, which, I doubt not, may hereafter -become a fashionable place of summer resort.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_244">244</div> -<h2 id="c21">CHAPTER XXI.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Hermit of Aroostook.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Mouth of the Aroostook. July.</span></p> -<p>I was on my way down the river St. John, in -New Brunswick, and having heard that the Aroostook, -(one of its principal tributaries,) was famous -for its salmon and a picturesque waterfall, I had -taken up my quarters at a tavern near the mouth of -that stream, with a view of throwing the fly for a -few days, and adding to my stock of sketches. I -arrived at this place in the forenoon, and after -depositing my luggage in an upper room, and -ordering a dinner, I proceeded to arrange my tackle -and pencils for an afternoon expedition. This preparatory -business I performed in the sitting-room of -the tavern, where there happened to be seated at -the time, and reading the New York Albion, an -oddly-dressed but gentlemanly-looking man. In -<span class="pb" id="Page_245">245</span> -form, he was tall and slender, appeared to be about -fifty years of age, and there was such an air of -refinement in his appearance and manners that he -attracted my particular attention. I said nothing, -however, and quietly continued my snelling operations, -until summoned to dinner. While at the -table, I sent for the landlord, to inquire about the -stranger whom I had noticed, and his reply was as -follows:—“His name is Robert Egger; he is a -strange but good man, and lives the life of a recluse; -his house is above the Fall, on the Aroostook, -and about four miles from here. He has been in -this part of the country for many years, but I -seldom see him at my house, excepting when he -wants to read the news, put a letter in the office, or -purchase a bag of flour.”</p> -<p>With this intelligence I was quite delighted, for I -fancied that I had discovered a <i>character</i>, which -eventually proved to be the case. On returning to -the room where the stranger was seated, I introduced -myself by offering him a cigar; and while -fixing my rod, asked him a few questions about the -surrounding country. His replies proved him to be -an intelligent man, and as he happened to express -himself a lover of the “gentle art,” I offered him -the use of some fishing tackle, and invited him to -accompany me. He refused my offer, but accepted -<span class="pb" id="Page_246">246</span> -my invitation, and we started for the Aroostook. -He officiated as my guide; and when we approached -the river, which was from two to five feet deep, -about one hundred yards wide, very rapid, and filled -with bridge piers in ruin, we jumped into a Frenchman’s -canoe, and were landed on the northern -shore. Here we came into a road which passed -directly along the bank of the river; this we -followed for one mile, until we arrived at a flouring-mill, -situated at the mouth of a large and very -beautiful brook, where the road made a sudden turn -towards the north.</p> -<p>Directly opposite the mill, on the Aroostook side, -was a narrow and rapid rift, where, my friend told -me, I was sure to hook a salmon. I did not like the -appearance of the place, but took his advice and -waded in. I tried my luck for some thirty minutes, -but could not tempt a single fish. This, my friend -did not understand; he said there were salmon -there, and thought that the fault was mine. I knew -what he wanted, and therefore handed him my rod, -that he might try his fortune. He fished for nearly -half an hour, and then broke the fly-tip of my rod. -As I was cherishing an earnest desire to take at least -one salmon, under the Fall, which I thought the -only likely place to succeed, and towards which I -had set my face, this little accident made me exceedingly -<span class="pb" id="Page_247">247</span> -nervous. My friend attempted to console me -by remarking, that as it was getting towards -evening, we had better return to the tavern, and -take a fresh start in the morning. But this proposition -did not suit me at all, and I promptly said so. -“Just as you please,” replied my companion, and so -we repaired the rod, and continued up the river. -Very rapid, with many and deep pools, was this -portion of the stream; and our course along the -shore, over logs and fallen trees, through tangled -underbrush and around rocky points—was attended -with every imaginable difficulty, and so continued -for at least two miles. On coming in sight of the -Fall, however, I was more than amply repaid for all -my trouble, by the prospect which there presented -itself. It was, perhaps, one hour before sunset, and -there was a delightful atmosphere resting upon the -landscape.</p> -<p>Directly before me, in the extreme distance, and -immediately under the crimson sun, was a narrow -rocky gorge, through which foamed the waters of -the Aroostook, over a precipice of some thirty feet; -and just below the Fall, rose a perpendicular rock, -to the height of nearly a hundred feet, dividing the -stream into two channels. The entire middle -distance of the prospect was composed of a broad -and almost circular basin of very deep and dark -<span class="pb" id="Page_248">248</span> -water, skirted mostly with a rocky shore, while -directly across the surface of this pool, winding -down the stream, was a line of foam, distinguishing -the main channel; while the foreground of this -picture consisted of a gravelly beach, two bark wigwams, -several canoes, and some half dozen Indians, -who were enjoying their evening meal by the side of -an expiring fire.</p> -<p>We held a brief conversation with the Indians, -and found out that they had visited the basin for -the purpose of spearing salmon by torchlight; and -while my companion sat down in their midst to rest -himself, I jumped into one of the canoes, and -paddled to the foot of the fall, to try one of my -fancy flies. I fished for about thirty minutes—caught -one small salmon—lost two very large ones, -and returned to the Indian camp, where I had previously -concluded to spend the night, provided my -guide did not insist upon returning to the tavern by -moonlight. It so happened, however, that my -interesting plan was vetoed by my companion, who -told me that his dwelling was only a mile off, and -that I must go and spend the night with him. I -willingly assented to this proposition, and having -picked up the salmon, we engaged the Indians to -ferry us across the basin, and proceeded on our way. -Our path was somewhat narrow, crooked, and intricate, -<span class="pb" id="Page_249">249</span> -and as I listened to the roaring of the waterfall, -and thought of the mystery which hung over -my companion, I could not but wonder what I was -about, to what strange place I was going.</p> -<p>In due time, however, we emerged from the -woods, and came out upon the side of a gentle hill, -which sloped to the margin of the Aroostook, and -was sufficiently open to command an extensive view -of the river. Here my friend told me to tarry a few -moments, for he had a canoe hidden among some -willows, and wished to hunt it up, that we might -recross the river once more. I heard his words, but -neglected to assist him, for my whole attention was -riveted by the scene upon which I was gazing. The -sober livery of twilight had settled upon the world, -and the flowing of the river was so peaceful, that I -could distinctly hear the hum of unnumbered -insects, as they sported in the air. On the opposite -shore was a lofty forest-covered hill, and at the foot -of it a small clearing, in the centre of which stood a -rude log cabin—the dwelling-place of my friend. -On my left, the river presented the appearance of a -lake: and apparently in the centre of it were two of -the most exquisitely foliaged islands imaginable. -The valley seemed completely hemmed in with -mountains, and these, together with a glowing sky, -were all distinctly mirrored in the sleeping waters. -<span class="pb" id="Page_250">250</span> -Charming beyond compare was this evening landscape, -and the holy time “was quiet as a nun, -breathless with adoration.” But now my companion -summoned me to a seat in the canoe, and we passed -over the stream in safety; he hauled up his shallop, -laid aside his paddle, and, slapping me on the -shoulder, led the way to his cabin, repeating, in a -loud clear voice, the following words:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Alone I live, between four hills,—</p> -<p class="t0">Fame Roostook runs between;—</p> -<p class="t0">At times, wild animals appear,</p> -<p class="t0">But men are seldom seen.”</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p269.jpg" alt="" width="420" height="312" /> -<p class="caption">ROBERT EGGER’S FARM-HOUSE.</p> -</div> -<p>On entering the hut, which was now quite dark, -as it only contained one window, my companion -<span class="pb" id="Page_251">251</span> -turned abruptly round, and after making a frolicsome -remark about my being in his power, he -exclaimed—“That poetry I repeated to you just -now was a home-spun article, but as you might -fancy something a little more civilized, I would say -to you, my young friend, in the language of -Wordsworth’s ‘Solitary,’</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t4">“This is my domain, my cell,</p> -<p class="t0">My hermitage, my cabin, what you will—</p> -<p class="t0">I love it better than a snail his house,</p> -<p class="t0">But now ye shall be feasted with our best.”</p> -</div> -<p>Soon as these words had fallen from his lips, my -friend proceeded to collect some wood for a fire, and -while I was left to kindle the flame, he seized a tin-pail -and went after some spring water, which he -said was some distance off. In a few moments, I -produced a sufficient quantity of light to answer my -purpose, and then took occasion to survey the room, -into which I had been thus strangely introduced. -Everything about me seemed to be oddity itself. -First was the huge fire-place, rudely made of rough -stones and filled with ashes; then the blackish -appearance of the log walls around, and the hemlock -rafters above. In one corner stood a kind of -wooden box, filled with blankets, which answered -the purpose of a bed,—and in front of the only -window in the cabin was a pine table, on which -<span class="pb" id="Page_252">252</span> -stood an inkstand and some writing paper, and -under which sat a large gray cat, watching my -movements with a suspicious eye. In one place -stood a wooden chest, and a half-barrel of meal, and -the only things in the room, to sit upon were a -couple of wooden chairs. The crevices in the walls -were stopped up with rags and clay, and from -various rafters depended bundles of mint, hemlock, -and other useful productions of the wood. A rusty -old gun, and a home-made fishing rod occupied one -corner; and on every side, resting upon wooden -pegs, were numerous shelves, of every size and form, -which were appropriated to a variety of uses. On -one or two of them were the cooking utensils of my -friend; on another, a lot of smoky books; and on -others, a little of every thing, from a box of salt or -paper of tea, down to a spool of thread or a paper of -needles.</p> -<p>In a few moments my friend re-entered the cabin, -and immediately began to prepare our evening meal, -which consisted of bread, fried pork, and salmon, -and a cup of tea. Plain was our food, but it was as -nicely cooked as if it had been done by a pretty -girl, instead of an old man; and the comic pomposity -with which every little matter was attended to, -afforded me much amusement. One thing I remember, -which struck me as particularly funny. -<span class="pb" id="Page_253">253</span> -My host was talking about the conduct of Sir -Robert Peel and the British Parliament, and, while -in the midst of his discourse, opened a trap-door -leading to his cellar, and descended therein. I knew -not what he was after, and waited his re-appearance -with some anxiety, when suddenly he bobbed up his -ghost-like head, resumed the thread of his remarks, -and held forth in one hand a huge piece of fat pork, -and as he became excited about the conduct of the -Prime Minister, he occasionally slapped the pork -with the remaining hand, and then shook it in the -air, as if it had been one of the murderous Irishmen to -whom he was occasionally alluding. He reminded -me of the grave-digger in Hamlet. I also remember, -that when my friend was kneading his bread, the -idea entered his head, from some remark that I had -dropped, that I did not comprehend the meaning of -a certain passage in Shakspeare, so he immediately -wiped one of his hands, leaned over for his ragged -copy of the mighty bard, and immediately settled -the question to our mutual satisfaction.</p> -<p>Supper being ended, I pulled out of my pocket a -couple of cigars which I had brought with me, and -we then seated ourselves comfortably before the fire -and entered into a systematic conversation. The -greater part of the talking was done by my companion, -and in the course of the evening, I gathered -<span class="pb" id="Page_254">254</span> -the following particulars respecting his own -history.</p> -<p>He told me he was a native of Hampshire, -England, and had spent his boyhood in the city of -London, as a counting-house clerk. He claimed a -good name for his family, and added that Mr. -Jerdan, editor of the London Literary Gazette, was -his brother-in-law, having married his only sister. -He avowed himself about sixty years of age, and had -been a resident of New Brunswick ever since the -year 1809. He first came across the Atlantic as a -government agent, for the transaction of business -connected with the fur trade; and when he settled -in the province, the whole country was an untrodden -wilderness. Since that time he had followed a -variety of employments, had acquired a competence, -but lost it through the rascality of friends. He told -me he was a widower, and that he had one son, who -resided in Frederickton, and was rapidly acquiring a -reputation for his knowledge of engineering. “It -does my heart good to remember this fact,” continued -my friend, “and I do hope that my son will not -disgrace his family, as some people seem to think I -have done. The God-forsaken inhabitants of this -region have a habit of calling me a crazy old man. -God be praised,—I know they overshoot the mark -in that particular; if I have lost my reason, I can -<span class="pb" id="Page_255">255</span> -tell the mocking world, that I have endured trouble -enough to make even a philosopher, a raving -maniac. By patient and unwearied toil, I have won -two small fortunes, but both of them were snatched -away, and I was left a beggar. The Home Government -took pity on me, and offered to make me a -present of land, adding that I was at liberty to -make my own selection. I accepted their offer and -selected five hundred acres on the Aroostook, -making the Fall we visited this evening the centre -of my domain. I duly received a deed for the -property, and having concluded that my fellow-men -were as tired of me as I was of them, I bolted for -the wilderness and have lived here ever since. Yes, -sir, for twelve years have I been the only human -inmate of this rude cabin; I ought to except, -however, ‘a lucid interval’ of some nine months, -which I spent in England, about four years ago, -visiting my friends and the favourite haunts of my -childhood. To enjoy even that little luxury, I was -compelled to sacrifice a portion of my land.”</p> -<p>“But why do you not sell your entire property?” -I remarked, “and take up your abode among -men, where your knowledge might be made available?”</p> -<p>“Knowledge, indeed!” replied the hermit philosopher; -“all that I possess, you might easily hide -<span class="pb" id="Page_256">256</span> -in the bowl of an acorn. I do know enough to -cast my eyes heavenward, when crushed by misfortune, -but the same knowledge was possessed by the -worm upon which I accidentally trod this morning. -What is man, at his best estate, but a worm? But -this is not answering your question. My only -reason for not selling this property is, that I cannot -find a purchaser. Most gladly would I jump at -the chance, and then I <i>would</i> mingle with my -fellow-men, and endeavour to be <i>of</i> them. Travellers, -who sometimes pass through this region, -tell me that my property is worth 5000 dollars; -I know it to be worth at least that amount, but I -should be glad to sell it for 3000 dollars, and that -too, on a credit of ten years. The interest would, -indeed, be a meagre income, but I have schooled -myself in the ways of poverty; and though it once -cost me 2000 dollars to carry me through a single -year, I can tell you that my expenses for the last -five years have not averaged more than 20 dollars, -which I have had to obtain as best I could. But -you must not misunderstand me. The little clearing -which surrounds my rookery contains six acres, and, -as I cultivate them with all diligence, they keep me -from actual starvation.”</p> -<p>“But it strikes me, my dear sir, that you ask -rather an extravagant price for your uncultivated -<span class="pb" id="Page_257">257</span> -land?” I asked this question with a view of -obtaining some information in reference to the valley -of the Aroostook, and was not disappointed. The -reply of my friend was as follows:</p> -<p>“I can convince you that you are mistaken. In -the first place, the water privilege which my land -covers, is acknowledged to be the most valuable -on the Aroostook, and I may add that it is abundantly -fertile. And then think of the valley, at -the very threshold of which I am located. It is -one of the most beautiful and luxuriant in this -northern wilderness; and the only thing against it, -though I say it, that should not, is the fact that -nearly five miles of its outlet belongs to the English -Government, while the remainder belongs to the -United States. The whole of it ought to be yours, -but if it were, I would not live here a year; I am -near enough to you now; directly on the boundary-line -between your country and mine. The Aroostook, -I verily believe, is one of the most important -branches of the St. John. Its general course is -easterly, but it is exceedingly serpentine, and -according to some of your best surveyors, drains -upwards of a million acres of the best soil in Maine. -Above my place, there is hardly a spot that might -not be navigated by a small steam-boat; and I -believe the time is not far distant when your -<span class="pb" id="Page_258">258</span> -enterprising Yankees will have a score of boats -employed here in carrying their grain to market. -Before that time comes, however, you must dig a -canal or build a railroad around my beautiful -waterfall, which I am sure could be done for -20,000 dollars. An extensive lumbering business -is now carried on in the valley, but its future -prosperity must depend upon its agriculture. Already -are its shores dotted with well-cultivated farms, and -every year is adding to their number, and the rural -beauty of those already in existence. The soil of -this valley is rich, and composed principally of what -is called <i>alluvial</i> (not intervale) land, together with -the quality known as <i>upland</i>. In many portions, -however, you will find some of the most charming -intervales in the world. The trees of this region -are similar to those of your northern states. The -staple crop of the Aroostook farmer is wheat; owing -to the shortness of our seasons, corn does not arrive -at perfection, and its cultivation is neglected. Rye, -barley, and oats, all flourish here, but much more -buckwheat is raised than any other grain besides -wheat. Grasses flourish here in great perfection, -and the farmer of Aroostook will yet send to market -immense quantities of cattle. As to the climate, -it is not so severe as is generally supposed. Snow -falls early, and continues late, which prevents the -<span class="pb" id="Page_259">259</span> -ground from freezing very deep. And when -summer comes, as you may testify, the weather is -sufficiently warm for every necessary purpose. Now, -Sir, do you not think I have made out a clear -case?” I answered in the affirmative, and thanked -him for the information he had given me. Like -Oliver Twist, however, I was anxious for “more,” -and therefore endeavoured to start him on another -subject. In this laudable effort I fully succeeded; -and by merely expressing the opinion that he -must lead a very lonely life in this remote wilderness.</p> -<p>“Not at all, not at all,” replied my friend. “It -is my good fortune to belong to that class of men -who depend upon books, the works of nature, and -themselves for happiness, and not upon a selfish -and heartless world. As to my books, they are -not very abundant, nor are they bound in fancy -morocco, but the substance of them is of the right -sort. Foremost among them is the Bible, which -tells even a poor devil like me that he is a man. -Perfect in their generation are the truths of this -glorious old book; they have an important bearing -upon everything; and they should be studied and -cherished with jealous care. But the earth-born -minds, with whom I hold daily communion, -are the mighty Shakspeare, the splendid Gibbon, -<span class="pb" id="Page_260">260</span> -the good and loving brother poets Thompson and -Wordsworth, the gifted but wayward Burns, the -elegant and witty Addison, and the ponderous -Johnson. These are the minds which always afford -me solid satisfaction. As to the immense herd who -keep the printing-presses of the present day constantly -employed, I know nothing about them, and -care still less. And now as to the pleasures which -are brought to me by the revolving seasons. They -are indeed manifold, and it is pleasant to remember -that ‘Nature never did betray the heart that loved -her.’ The hills which surround my cabin, I look -upon as familiar friends, not only when crowned -with a wreath of snow, but when rejoicing in their -summer bloom; and a more peaceful and heart-soothing -stream can nowhere be found, than the -one which flows along by my door, and you know -from experience that it abounds in the finest of -salmon and trout. The surrounding woods furnish -me with game, but their greatest treasures are the -ten thousand beautiful birds, which make melody -in their little hearts, and afford me unalloyed pleasure -for at least one half the year. I seldom have occasion -to kill these feathered minstrels for food, and the -consequence is, whenever I go out into my fields -to work, they gather around me without fear, and -often come so near, as to be in my very way. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_261">261</span> -quail and the wren, the jay and the blue-bird, the -mocking-bird, the partridge, the fish-hawk, the -eagle and the crow, and also the swallow, the owl, and -whip-poor-will, all build their nests within a stone’s -throw of my door, and they know that the friendless -old man will do them no harm. And then what -exquisite pleasure do I continually enjoy in watching -the ever-varying changes of the year! First, when -the primrose tells me that the rains are over and -gone, and I go forth in the refreshing sunshine to -sow my seeds; secondly, when the glorious summer -is in its prime, with its dewy mornings and lovely -twilights; also in the sober autumnal time, when -I thoughtfully count the leaves floating on the -bosom of the stream; and then again when the cold -winds of winter are howling around my cabin, and -I sit in my pleasant solitude before a roaring fire, -building palaces in my mind, as I peer into the -burning embers. Yes, sir, I have learned to live -without excitement, and to depend upon myself for -the companionship I need. I do, indeed, occasionally -steal out of my beautiful vale, and mingle with my -fellow-men; but I always return perfectly contented -with my lot. After all, I do not believe that the -world <i>could</i> add greatly to my stock of happiness, -even if I were a worshipper of Mammon, a brawling -politician, or a responsible statesman.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_262">262</div> -<p>“But, Mr. Egger, it strikes me that your -manner of life is not in keeping with the Bible, -for which you have expressed so much reverence.”</p> -<p>“That may be true,” was the reply, “but I -make no sanctimonious pretensions. I do but -little to promote the happiness of my fellow-men, -and I congratulate myself with the idea that I -do as little to make them miserable. The influence -of my example amounts to nothing, and I give -no bread to the poor, because I have none to -give. But let us drop the subject; I feel that -your questions may so annoy me, that I shall -be compelled to abandon the glorious old wilderness, -and become a denizen of the busy and noisy -world.”</p> -<p>A breach having thus been made in our discourse, -I examined my watch and found it to be near -twelve o’clock. My companion took the hint, and -immediately proceeded to fix a sleeping-place that -would accommodate us both. This was done by -spreading the clothes of the wooden bedstead upon -the floor. While going through with this little operation, -he held high above his head a ragged old -bed-quilt, and asked me what I thought Queen -Victoria would say, if she had such an article to -rest her royal limbs upon? He then pointed to -<span class="pb" id="Page_263">263</span> -the particular spot which he wanted me to occupy, -giving as a reason for the request, that there was -a hole on the opposite side of his mansion, where -toads, rats, and weasels were frequently in the -habit of entering, and he was afraid they might -annoy me, though he had never been disturbed -by their nocturnal visits. This information appeared -to me somewhat peculiar, but did not prevent me -from undressing myself to lie down. When about -half through this business, however, I was actually -compelled to take a seat on account of a laughing-fit, -brought upon me by one or two stories, which my -host related for my special benefit. What a strange -man indeed! thought I; and making another effort, -I tumbled into bed. In the meantime, my companion -had stripped himself of everything but his -shirt, and, in spite of the frailty of his “spindle -shanks,” was throwing himself into the attitudes -for which Kemble was distinguished, whose acting -he had often witnessed in olden times. I was -already quite exhausted with excess of laughter, and -I verily believed that the queer antics of the anchorite -and philosopher would be the death of me. But I -felt that I must go to sleep, and, in self-defence, -partly covered my head with the end of a quilt, -and almost swore that I would not be disturbed -again.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_264">264</div> -<p>I did not swear, however, and was consequently -again disturbed. I had just fixed my head upon -the pillow, as I thought for the last time, when I -was startled by a tremendous yell proceeding from -without the cabin. I rushed out of the house, as -if the Old Harry himself had been after me, and -beheld my spare and venerable friend, sitting upon -a stump, gazing upon the rising moon, and listening -to the distant howl of a wolf, with one of his feet -dangling to and fro, like the pendulum of a clock. -“Wasn’t that a musical yell, my boy?” were the -first words spoken by the hermit mad-cap; and then -he went on to point out all the finer features of -the scene spread out before us. Silently flowed the -stream, grand and sublime looked the mountains, -clear and very blue the sky, spirit-like the moon and -stars, and above the neighbouring waterfall ascended -a column of spray, which was fast melting into a -snowy cloud. After enjoying this picture for a -reasonable time, my companion then proposed that -we should enjoy a swim in the river, to which -arrangement I assented, even as did the wedding -guest of Coleridge to the command of the Ancient -Mariner. Our bath ended, we returned to the -cabin, and in the course of half-an-hour, the hermit -and the stranger were side by side in the arms of -sleep.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_265">265</div> -<p>On opening my eyes in the morning, the pleasant -sunshine was flooding the floors through the open -door, and my friend, who had risen without disturbing -me, was frying some trout which he had -just taken in the stream. I arose, rolled up the -bed, and prepared myself for breakfast, which was -particularly relished by the giver and the receiver. -I spent the forenoon rambling about the estate of -my old friend, and enjoying the surrounding -scenery; I then proposed to him that he should -go down and be my guest at the tavern on the -St. John for a day or two, which invitation was -accepted. On my return, I took a sketch of the -secluded vale where stands the cottage of my friend, -also a profile of his own handsome face, and a view -of his waterfall. The time of my departure having -arrived, I left him with a heavy heart—I for my -distant city-home, and he to return to his solitary -cottage among the mountains.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_266">266</div> -<h2 id="c22">CHAPTER XXII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The River St. John.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Woodstock. July.</span></p> -<p>I have recently performed a pilgrimage along -the valley of the Lower St. John, and as I am about -to leave the river, it is meet that I should give my -reader a record of my observations. The distance -from the Falls of St. John to the city of that name, -is two hundred and twenty miles. The width varies -from a quarter of a mile to nearly two miles, and -the depth from two to forty feet. That portion -lying north of Frederickton, abounds in rapids and -shallows, and is navigated only by flat-bottomed -boats, which are taken up stream by horse power, -but descend with the current. Here, for the most -part, the shores are mountainous, and only partly -cultivated, with high and picturesque banks; the -<span class="pb" id="Page_267">267</span> -lowest portion, however, is of a level character, -and presents the appearance of an ancient and -highly cultivated country, and is navigated by -steam-boats, and the common sail craft of the -country. The soil, all along the shores, is good, -but seems better adapted for grass than wheat, -and I can see no good reason for its not becoming -greatly distinguished as a grazing country.</p> -<p>The river is not distinguished for any pictorial -feature, (though it abounds in beautiful landscapes,) -excepting a place called the Narrows, situated at the -southern extremity. At this point, the stream is -not more than five hundred yards wide, and as it is -bounded on either side by a high, rocky barrier, -the current ordinarily passes through with great -rapidity. The tides of the ocean ascend about -thirty miles, and it is only when the tide is high -that the point in question can be navigated. -Though these Narrows are a great annoyance to -the navigator, by the lover of the picturesque they -are highly esteemed. Not only are they beautiful -in themselves, but, owing to the peculiarity of -the place, it is frequently the case that the broad -expanse of water above it, is covered with a fleet -of sloops, schooners, steam-boats, tow-boats, and -timber-crafts, which present a peculiar and agreeable -panorama. The river abounds with salmon and -<span class="pb" id="Page_268">268</span> -shad, the former of which, though rather small, may -be taken by the angler in the principal tributaries. -They are not sufficiently abundant, however, to constitute -an important article of commerce, and the -common modes for taking them are with the spear, -and the drift-net.</p> -<p>The principal towns on the St. John are, Woodstock, -French Village, Frederickton, and St. John. -The first of these is one hundred and fifty miles -from the mouth, and though a ragged, yet an -interesting village. So far as its natural productions -are concerned, I am disposed to compliment this -Province in the highest terms; but I must say that -the ignorance, idleness, and gouging character of -its common people, have made me quite willing to -take my departure therefrom. The expenses of -travelling are enormous, and so also are all the -little incidentals which go to make a man comfortable.</p> -<p>The stage-route from the Grand Falls to St. John -passes through Woodstock, but the distance from -this place to the American town of Houlton, is ten -miles, and in this direction there is also an established -stage-route to Bangor.</p> -<p>The next place on the St. John, of any note, -is French Village. It usually contains a thousand -souls—most of them Indians. They live in frame -<span class="pb" id="Page_269">269</span> -and log-houses, and though they pretend to do -some farming, they are chiefly engaged in hunting -and fishing. They are a good-looking race, speak -English fluently, and are the followers of a Catholic -priest, who lives among them, and officiates in a -small chapel, which was built by the Jesuits at an -early day. This society is said to be one of the -most wealthy in the Province. The chief of the -village is one Louis Beir. He lives in a very comfortable, -and well-furnished house, is rather a -handsome man, dresses in a half-savage manner, -and while he offers his visitor a comfortable chair, -he invariably seats himself upon the floor in true -Indian fashion.</p> -<p>Frederickton is at the head of steam-boat navigation, -and distant from St. John eighty miles. -Between these two places there runs a morning -and evening boat, and the summer travel is very -extensive. Frederickton contains about eight thousand -inhabitants, composed principally, of Irish, -Scotch, and English. It contains three principal -streets, running north and south, and some half-dozen -handsome public buildings, including an -Episcopal church, after the Tuscan order, a Court -House and a College. The town is situated on a -level plain, and its suburbs are made exceedingly -beautiful by the number of rural residences which -<span class="pb" id="Page_270">270</span> -attract the eye in every direction. The elm and -poplar both seem to flourish here, and add much to -the picturesqueness of the place and vicinity. The -business of Frederickton is only of a second-rate -character, and it has become what it is, merely from -the fact that it has heretofore been the seat of -Government. This fact has also had a tendency to -collect a good society in the place, and its “ton,” -though in a small way have been disposed to cut quite -a dash. The “mother Parliament,” I believe, have -recently removed the seat of government to St. John, -and the lovers of Frederickton are sorry, and a little -angry.</p> -<p>The city of St. John stands at the mouth of the -river of that name, and is also laved by the waters of -the Bay of Fundy. I hate cities, but suppose that I -must stop a moment in the one alluded to. It is a -business place, planted among rocks, contains some -twenty thousand inhabitants, (two-thirds of whom -are Irish,) and in its port, at the present time, is -moored a fleet of two hundred ships. Its public -buildings are numerous, the finest of which are the -Court House, an Episcopal church, of the Doric -order, another after the Gothic, and a Presbyterian -church, after the Corinthian order. The city is -defended by a fortress, which presents a handsome -appearance as you approach the port. The merchants -<span class="pb" id="Page_271">271</span> -of the place are chiefly employed in the square-timber -trade, and have heretofore done an extensive business. -This trade, however, I am inclined to believe, is -rapidly running out. On the opposite side of the -St. John’s river is a picturesque point, or hill, which -is called Carlton Hill. It is surmounted by a massive -block-house, and commands an extensive prospect of -the Bay of Fundy, the spring tides of which rise to -the height of sixty feet, and when coming in make a -terrible roar.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_272">272</div> -<h2 id="c23">CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">The Penobscot River.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Off the Coast of Maine. July.</span></p> -<p>A week ago I was fighting with mosquitoes -and flies, on the head waters of the Penobscot, and -now that I am upon the ocean once more, I fancy -that my feelings are allied to those of an old moose -that I lately saw standing in a mountain lake, with -the water up to his chin. The noble river which I -have mentioned, “is all my fancy painted it,” and -in spite of its insect inhabitants, I shall ever remember -it with pleasure.</p> -<p>The length of this stream, from the mouth of its -bay, to where its principal branches come together, -is about one hundred and forty miles; from this -junction, to the fountain head of the west branch, -the distance is supposed to be one hundred and fifty -<span class="pb" id="Page_273">273</span> -miles, while the east branch is probably only one -hundred miles in length. Both of these streams -rise in the midst of a mountain wilderness, looming -above which, is old Katahden, the loftiest mountain -in Maine, and elder brother to Mount Washington, -in New Hampshire. This mountain is distant from -Moosehead Lake only about twenty miles; but it -towers into the sky so grandly, that nearly all the -people who inhabit the northern part of Maine, look -upon it as a familiar friend. The two branches of -the Penobscot, run through a mountainous region, -both of them abounding in rapids, though the west -branch contains a number of picturesque falls. -The soil of this region, generally speaking, is good, -but remains in its original wilderness. Its stationary -inhabitants are few and far between; but it gives -employment to about three thousand lumbermen. -They spend the winter in wielding the axe in the -forests, and the spring and summer in driving down -the stream logs which they have prepared for the -saw-mills, which are mostly situated on the lower -part of the Penobscot. Nine months in the year -they labour without ceasing, but usually appropriate -to themselves a three months holiday, which is -the entire autumn. They are a young and powerfully -built race of men, mostly New Englanders, -generally unmarried, and, though rude and intemperate -<span class="pb" id="Page_274">274</span> -in their manners, are very intelligent. They -seem to have a passion for their wild and toilsome -life, and, judging from their dresses, I should think -possess a fine eye for the comic and fantastic. The -entire apparel of an individual usually consists of a -pair of grey pantaloons, and two red flannel shirts, -a pair of long boots, and a woollen covering for the -head, and all these things are worn at one and the -same time. The head-covering alluded to, when -first purchased, is what might be called a hat; but -the wearers invariably take particular pains to transform -the article into such queer shapes, as to render -it indescribable. Sometimes they take the crown -and tic it in the shape of a fool’s-cap, and sometimes -they trim the rims with a jack-knife, into -many different fashions. Their wages vary from -twenty to thirty dollars per month; and they are -chiefly employed by the lumber merchants of -Bangor, who furnish them with necessary supplies.</p> -<p>The Penobscot, I suppose, is unquestionably the -most fruitful lumber river in the United States, and -its pine and hemlock forests seem yet to be inexhaustible. -And the State of Maine is indebted to -the lumber business for many of its beautiful cities -and towns.</p> -<p>From the Forks of the Penobscot to Bangor, the -distance is about sixty miles. This portion of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_275">275</span> -river is about a quarter of a mile wide. The banks -are rather low and level, and somewhat cultivated. -The water is deep and clear, and the current strong. -Generally speaking, the scenery of the river is not -remarkable, and were it not for its numerous islands, -it might be considered tame, by the lover of a -mountain land. The islands alluded to, however, -are exceedingly beautiful. Covered as they are with -venerable elms, and containing no underbrush, but -a continuous plot of green, they have all the appearance -of cultivated parks. The stage-route, from -Woodstock, after reaching the Penobscot, continues -along the eastern bank, and as the coaches are comfortable, -and the horses good, the ride is very -pleasant. The principal village, of which there are -four, is Old Town. It is a busy little place, and -the present termination of a railroad from Bangor, -which is twelve miles distant. Directly opposite -Old Town is a small island, where reside a remnant -of the Penobscot Indians. They number some four -hundred souls, and are just sufficiently civilized to -lead a very miserable sort of life.</p> -<p>I come now to speak of Bangor. It is a well-built -and handsome city, eighty miles from the -ocean, and contains about eight thousand inhabitants. -It is at the head of tide water navigation, -and has a good harbour, where I counted from one -<span class="pb" id="Page_276">276</span> -point near two hundred sails. The principal article -of trade is lumber, which is distinguished for its -good qualities. All the heaviest merchants are -engaged in the lumber trade, and almost every body -deals in it to a limited extent. A few thousand -shingles will pay your tailor for a coat, a few loads -of plank will settle your account with the butcher, -and bundles of clap-boards are gladly received by -the grocer, in exchange for his tea and sugar.</p> -<p>With the people of Bangor I was much pleased. -Their manners and habits are stamped with the -true New England character, they mind their own -business, and are distinguished for their intelligence, -virtue, and hospitality. When I reached this place, -my beard was more than half as long as that of the -Wandering Jew; and it took me nearly a whole day -to forget the bad French which I had acquired in -Canada and New Brunswick, and transform myself -into the semblance of a civilized man. I had been -in the woods for so long a time, that I seized the -first paper I saw to find out whether I had forgotten -to read. You may readily imagine, therefore, -what a refreshing effect the appearance and conversation -of intelligent people had upon my feelings. -But the class of citizens who made the deepest -impression upon me, were the children of Bangor. -I met them at every corner, and heard their happy -<span class="pb" id="Page_277">277</span> -voices in every dwelling, and a more perfectly -beautiful race of creatures, I never before saw in -any city.</p> -<p>The distance from Bangor to the ocean is eighty -miles. For twenty miles the river averages three -quarters of a mile in width, when it gradually -widens into an expansive bay or gulf. The water is -deep, always covered with vessels, and abounds with -salmon, which are only taken with the net. The -shores are hilly, and well-cultivated, and the towns -of Bucksport, Frankfort, Belfast and Thomaston, as -you pass them, present each a thriving and pleasant -appearance.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_278">278</div> -<h2 id="c24">CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">Moosehead Lake.—The River Kennebeck.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Portland. August.</span></p> -<p>Moosehead Lake is the largest and the wildest -in New England. It lies in the central portion of -the State of Maine, and distant from the ocean near -one hundred and fifty miles. Its length is fifty -miles, and its width from five to fifteen. It is -embosomed among a brotherhood of mountains, -whose highest peak has been christened with the -beautiful name of Katahden. All of them, from -base to summit, are covered with a dense forest, in -which the pine is by far the most abundant. It is -the grand centre of the only wilderness region in -New England, whose principal denizens are wild -beasts. During the summer months, its tranquil -waters remain in unbroken solitude, unless some -<span class="pb" id="Page_279">279</span> -scenery-hunting pilgrim, like myself, should happen -to steal along its shores in his birchen canoe. But -in the winter the case is very different, for then, all -along its borders, may be heard the sound of the -axe, wielded by a thousand men. Then it is that -an immense quantity of logs are cut, to be manufactured -into lumber at the extensive mills down the -Kennebeck, which is the only outlet to the lake.</p> -<p>A winter at Moosehead must be attended with -much that is rare, and wild, and exciting, not only -to the wealthy proprietor who has a hundred men -to superintend, but even to the toiling chopper. -Look at a single specimen of the gladdening scenes -enacted in that forest world. It is an awful night, -the winds wailing, the snow falling, and the forests -making a moan. Before you is a spacious, but -rudely built log cabin, almost covered with snow. -But now, above the shriek of the storm, and the -howl of the wolf, you hear a long, loud shout, from -a score of human mouths. You enter the cabin, -and lo, a merry band of noble men, some lying on a -buffalo-robe, and some seated on a log, while the -huge fire before them reveals every feature and -wrinkle of their countenances, and makes a picture -of the richest colouring. Now the call is for a -song, and a young man sings a song of Scotland, -which is his native land; a mug of cider then goes -<span class="pb" id="Page_280">280</span> -round, after which an old pioneer clears his throat -for a hunting legend of the times of old; now the -cunning jest is heard; and peals of hearty laughter -shake the building; and now a soul-stirring speech -is delivered in favour of Henry Clay. The fire-place -is again replenished, when with a happy and contented -mind each woodman retires to his couch, to -sleep, and to dream of his wife and children, or of -the buxom damsel whom he loves.</p> -<p>The number of logs which these men cut in a -single winter is almost incredible, and the business -of conveying them to the lake upon the snow gives -employment to a great many additional men and -their oxen. The consequence is, that large quantities -of flour, potatoes, pork, and hay, are consumed; -and as these things are mostly supplied by the -farmers of the Kennebeck, winter is the busiest -season of the year throughout the region. When -the lake is released from its icy fetters in the spring, -a new feature of the logging business comes into -operation, which is called rafting. A large raft -contains about eighteen thousand logs, and covers -a space of some ten acres. In towing them to the -Kennebeck, a small steam-boat is employed, which, -when seen from the summit of a hill, looks like a -living creature struggling with a mighty incubus. -But the most picturesque thing connected with this -<span class="pb" id="Page_281">281</span> -business is a floating log-cabin, called a Raft House, -which ever attends a raft on its way to the river. -During the summer, as before stated, Moosehead -Lake is a perfect solitude, for the “log chopper” -has become a “log driver” on the Kennebeck,—the -little steamer being moored in its sheltering bay, -near the tavern at the south end of the lake, and -the toiling oxen having been permitted to enjoy -their summer sabbath on the farm of their master.</p> -<p>The islands of Moosehead Lake, of any size, are -only four; Moose and Deer Islands at the southern -extremity, Sugar Island in the large eastern bay, -and Farm Island in a north-western direction from -that. All of these are covered with beautiful groves, -but the time is not far distant when they will be -cultivated farms. Trout are the principal fish that -flourish in its waters, and may be caught at any -time in great abundance. And thereby hangs a -fish story.</p> -<p>It was the sunset hour, and with one of my companions -I had gone to a rocky ledge for the purpose -of trying my luck. My bait was squirrel meat, and -I was the first to throw the line. It had hardly -reached the water, before I had the pleasure of -striking and securing a two pound trout. This -threw my friend into a perfect fever of excitement, -so that he was exceedingly slow in cutting up the -<span class="pb" id="Page_282">282</span> -squirrels; and it may be readily supposed that I was -somewhat excited myself; so I “grabbed” the -animal out of his hands, and in less than a “jiffy,” -and with my teeth, made a number of good baits. -The conclusion of the whole matter was, that in -less than forty minutes we had caught nearly -seventy pounds of salmon trout. But the fish of -Moosehead are not to be compared with those of -Horicon in point of delicacy, though they are very -large, and very abundant. The reason of this is, -that its waters are not remarkably clear, and a good -deal of its bottom is muddy. Moose River, which -is the principal tributary of the Lake, is a narrow, -deep, and picturesque stream, where may be caught -the common trout, weighing from one to five pounds.</p> -<p>In this portion of Maine every variety of forest -game may be found, but the principal kinds are the -grey wolf, the black bear, the deer, and the moose. -Winter is the appropriate season for their capture, -when they afford a deal of sport to the hunter, and -furnish a variety of food to the forest labourers. -Deer are so very plentiful, that a certain resident told -me, that, in the deep snow of last winter, he caught -some dozen of them alive, and having cut a slit in -their ears, let them go, that they might recount to -their kindred their marvellous escape. But the -homeliest animal, the most abundant, and the best -<span class="pb" id="Page_283">283</span> -for eating, is the moose. I did not kill one, but -spent a night with an old hunter who did. During -the warm summer nights these animals, for the purpose -of getting clear of the black-fly, are in the habit -of taking to the water, where, with nothing but -their heads in sight, they remain for hours. It was -the evening of one of those cloudless nights, whose -memory can never die. We were alone far up the -Moose River, and it seemed to me, “we were the -first that ever burst into that forest sea.” Embarked -on board a swan-like canoe, and with our -rifles ready, we carefully and silently descended the -stream. How can I describe the lovely pictures -that we passed? Now we peered into a dark recess -in the centre of a group of elms, where unnumbered -fire-flies were revelling in joy;—and now a solitary -duck shot out into the stream from its hidden home, -behind a fallen and decayed tree; now we watched -the stars mirrored in the sleeping waves, and now -we listened to the hoot of the owl, the drum of the -partridge, the song of a distant waterfall, or the leap -of a robber-trout. It was not far from midnight -when my companion whispered, “Hush, hush!” -and pointed to a dim spot some hundred yards -below. The first chance was allotted me, so I took -the best aim I could, and fired. I heard the ball -skip along the water, and on coming near, found -<span class="pb" id="Page_284">284</span> -my mark to be only a smooth rock. Two hours -more passed on, one small moose was killed, and at -day-break we were in our cabin fast asleep.</p> -<p>The principal outlet to Moosehead Lake is the -Kennebeck, which “now demands my song.” It -is the second river in Maine, and one of the most -beautiful I have ever seen. Instead of watering a -wilderness, as I had supposed, all along its valley -for over a hundred miles are fertile and extensive -farms, with here and there a thriving village, inhabited -by an intelligent and industrious people. Its -principal tributary is Dead River, and the spot at -the junction of the two is called the Forks. The -cultivated region stops here, and between this point -and Moosehead, the distance is about twenty-five -miles, which is yet a forest wilderness.</p> -<p>The principal attraction at the Forks is a tavern -kept by one Burnham, who is a capital fellow to -guide the lover of Nature or the trout fisherman to -Moxy Fall and Nameless Lake, which are in the -immediate vicinity. The mountains about here are -very lofty, and exceedingly picturesque, abounding -in the maple, the oak, the pine, and hemlock. -Emptying into the Kennebeck, a few miles north of -the Forks, is a superb mountain-stream, named -Moxy, after an Indian who was drowned there many -years ago. Winding for a long distance among -<span class="pb" id="Page_285">285</span> -rocky ravines, and eternally singing to the woods a -trumpet-song, it finally makes a sudden plunge into -a chasm more than a hundred feet in depth. The -perpendicular rocks on either side rise to an immense -height, their tops crowned with a “peculiar -diadem of trees,” and their crevices filled up with -dark-green verdure, whence occasionally issues, -hanging gracefully in the air, beautiful festoons of -the ivy, and clusters of the mountain blue-bell. -The depth of the pool was never told, and its waters -wash against the granite walls in a perpetual gloom. -On one occasion I visited it when there was a high -freshet, and saw what I could hardly have believed -from a description. I stood on an elevated point -in front of the Fall, when my eyes rested upon an -immense log, some sixty feet long, coming down -the foaming stream with all the fury of a maddened -steed; presently it reached the precipice,—then -cleaved its airy pathway into the hell of waters,—was -completely out of sight for three minutes, then, -like a creature endowed with life, shot upward again -entirely out of the water, made another less desperate -plunge, and quietly pursued its course into the -Kennebeck.</p> -<p>In speaking of the Nameless Lake, it is necessary -that I should be a little egotistical. It is a fairy-like -<span class="pb" id="Page_286">286</span> -sheet of pure water in the heart of the mountain -wilderness, only about a mile in length, but full -of trout. The proprietor was of the party that -accompanied me on my first visit. While approaching -it, the remark was made, that it was yet without a -name; when it was agreed that it should be -christened after that individual, who should on that -day throw the most successful fly. As fortune -would have it, the honour was awarded to me; and -on a guide-board in the forest, three miles from -Burnham’s, may be seen the figure of a hand, and -the words “Lake Lanman.” There stands my -written name, exposed “to the peltings of the -pitiless storm;” and in a few years, at the longest, -it will be washed away, and the tree which supports -it mingling with the dust. Will it be even thus -with the memory of name?</p> -<p>Not to attempt a description of the scenery of the -Kennebeck, which could be only faithfully given by -the pictures of an artist, I will take my reader down -its beautiful valley, and tell him what I know -respecting its beautiful villages.</p> -<p>The first in order is Bingham, situated on a -fertile “interval,” surrounded with picturesque -hills, charming and quiet as a summer day, and -containing within the jurisdiction of its town -<span class="pb" id="Page_287">287</span> -an uncommonly fine farm, belonging to a Mr. -Parlin, who manufactures large quantities of maple -sugar.</p> -<p>Solon is the next village in the Kennebeck valley, -remarkable for nothing but Caritunk Falls, which -are twenty feet high, and run through a gorge fifty -feet wide. Here I saw some twenty men “driving” -the logs that had been lodged all along the river -when it was low. It is a laborious life which these -men lead, but they receive good pay, and meet with -many interesting adventures. They generally have -the soul to enjoy fine scenery, and therefore demand -the respect of the intelligent traveller.</p> -<p>Anson, though in the valley of the Kennebeck, -is situated on Seven Mile Brook, and is a flourishing -business place. From its neighbouring hills may -be seen the sky-piercing peaks of Mount Blue, -Saddleback, Bigelow, and Mount Abraham, which -are the guardian spirits of Maine. The town is -distinguished for its agricultural enterprise, and the -abundance of its wheat, having actually produced -more than is reported from any other town in the -State.</p> -<p>Norridgwock, so named by the Kennebeck Indians, -because, when fighting with their enemies at this -place, they could find <i>no-ridge-to-walk</i> upon, which -was a desirable object. It is a charming little -<span class="pb" id="Page_288">288</span> -village, and associated with a celebrated Indian -Chief named Bomazeen, and also with a Jesuit -Missionary, whose name I do not remember. Not -far from here is a picturesque fall, also a picturesque -bend of the Kennebeck, where empties Sandy -River, upon which are many extensive farms.</p> -<p>Skowhegan is a thriving village, where there are -fine falls, which I never could look upon without -thinking of the famous Glen’s Falls in New York, -of which they are a complete counterpart, though -on a smaller scale. Many and very dear to me are -my recollections of its “choice bits” of scenery, of -the fine singing I there heard, of the acquaintances -there formed, and of the pleasant literary communings -which were mine in company with one of the -best and most intellectual of women, who has for -many years been my “guide, counsellor, and -friend.”</p> -<p>Waterville, the next town on the river, is the -seat of a Baptist College, and the head of navigation -on account of the Ticonic Falls. It is the -centre of an extensive farming district, which fact, -together with the literary taste of its people, makes -it an interesting place.</p> -<p>Augusta, the capital of the State, is also on the -Kennebeck, and with its State House and other -State buildings, its admirably conducted hotels, its -<span class="pb" id="Page_289">289</span> -commanding churches, its large bridge, and pleasant -residences, is one of the most picturesque and -interesting towns in the whole of New England.</p> -<p>Hallowell, two miles below Augusta, was once a -great place of business, and is still a very pleasant -place, though unable to compete with its rival the -Capital. In my mind, it is chiefly associated with -some fine people, and particularly with three beautiful -sisters, who are great lovers of poetry and fine -musicians.</p> -<p>Gardiner, further down, is a tremendous place for -saw-mills; and lumbering I look upon as one of the -surest kinds of business. It contains the handsomest -church-building in the State, and a number -of fine residences belonging to its wealthy citizens, -of which that one belonging to Mr. Gardiner (after -whom the place was named), is the most elegant.</p> -<p>Bath is the next and most southern town on -the Kennebeck; it is a large place, where there -is a great deal of shipping done, and now in a -flourishing condition. The sail down the river from -here is a most delightful one, for the eye revels on -a continual succession of pleasant farms, quiet headlands, -solitary islands, and vessels of every kind -passing up and down the stream. Even to the -present day, the Kennebeck abounds in salmon, -which are caught with nets from the first of May -<span class="pb" id="Page_290">290</span> -till midsummer. To take them with the hook is -indeed rare sport, and for the manner in which I -conquered a solitary individual I refer my reader to -a certain passage in “Scrope on Salmon Fishing.” -Few are the rivers that I love more than the -Kennebeck, and very dear to me are its manifold -associations.</p> -<p>I date this chapter from Portland, which is a -thriving city of twenty thousand inhabitants, and -interesting to the admirers of genius, because it is -the native place of Mrs. Seba Smith, the poet -Longfellow, and John Neal.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_291">291</div> -<h2 id="c25">CHAPTER XXV.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">A Fishing Party on the Thames—Watch Hill—Night Adventures.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Norwich. August.</span></p> -<p>A few mornings ago, just as the sun had risen -above the eastern hills, which look down upon the -Thames at Norwich, the prettiest sail-boat of the -place left her moorings, and with a pleasant -northerly breeze started for the Sound. Her passengers -consisted of six gentlemen, all equipped in -their sporting jackets, and furnished with fishing -tackle, and their place of destination was Watch -Hill, a point of land in Rhode Island, extending -into the Atlantic, a few miles from Stonington. -We were on a fishing frolic, as a matter of course, -and a happier company, I ween, were never yet -afloat, for the sport of a morning breeze. What with -<span class="pb" id="Page_292">292</span> -the story, the jest, the iced lemonade and exquisite -cigar, the minutes glided by as swiftly and -unobserved as the tiny waves around us. Now we -met a solitary fisherman, towing for bass, and as -we hailed him with a friendly shout and passed -on, he began to talk in an under tone, and his -voice did not die away until we had turned a point. -What would I not give for an accurate record of -that old man’s life! Anon, we witnessed the soothing -picture of a well-conducted farm, with its green-girt -cottage, spacious barns, neat and flowing fields, -with its horses, oxen, cows, sheep, hogs, and -poultry. Now we saw some noble men, such as -Vernet delighted to paint, hauling the seine, and, -as the “fruit of all their toil” were thrown upon -the sand, their flipping forms reflected back the -sunlight, reminding us of—anything the reader -may be pleased to imagine. Now, we were overtaken -and tossed about by a steamer bound to New -Haven; and then we sailed in company with a boat, -a sloop, and schooner; meeting others, beating up, -from Boston, New York, and Philadelphia. And -the termination of this pleasing panorama was composed -of Gale’s Ferry, the commanding town, fort, -and monument of Groton, together with the city -of New London, among whose anchored shipping -floated a saucy Revenue Cutter, and at whose docks -<span class="pb" id="Page_293">293</span> -were chained a goodly number of storm-beaten -whalers.</p> -<p>Having taken in our stores, and obtained from -the fish-market a basket of bait, we again hoisted -sail, bound first to Commit Rock, and binding -ourselves to capture all of the watery enemy which -might tempt the power or the dexterity of our -arms.</p> -<p>When about three miles from New London, all -eyes were attracted by a beautiful craft on our -lee, laden with a party of ladies and gentlemen. -“They’re going toward a reef!” exclaimed our -captain; and no sooner had the words escaped his -lips, than the stranger struck, and stove a hole -through her bottom. We were just in time to save -the party from a watery grave; and when we had -landed them in safety on the beach, we were well -repaid for our trouble by the consciousness of -having done a good act, and by the thankful words -and benignant smiles of the ladies fair. A dozen -minutes more and we were within an oar’s -length of the fishing rock. “All ashore that’s -coming!” shouted our mate, as he held the boat -fast, standing on the rock, when we all leaped -out, and plenty of line having been given her, -the boat swung to, and “like a cradled thing at -rest,” floated upon the waves. Then commenced -<span class="pb" id="Page_294">294</span> -the sport. The breeze was refreshing, and the -breath of the salt sea-foam buoyed up our spirits to -a higher pitch, and gave new vigour to our sinews. -The youngest of the party was the first who threw -his hook, which was snapped in the twinkling of an -eye. Another trial, and a four-pound black-fish -lay extended upon the rock. Another, and another, -and another, until fourscore, even numbered, came -following after. Tired of the sport, two of the -party entered the boat, and hoisted sail for a little -cruize. Half an hour had elapsed, when the steady -breeze changed into a frightful gale, capsizing -within hailing distance, a small fishing smack, with -two old men in it. Hanging on, as they were, to -the keel of the boat, their situation was extremely -dangerous, as there was not a vessel within two -miles. The poor men beckoned to us to help -them; but as our boat was gone, we could not do -so, which of course we much regretted.</p> -<p>For one long, long hour did they thus hang, -“midway betwixt life and death,” exposed to the -dangers of being washed away by the remorseless -surge, or swallowed up, as we were afterwards told, -by a couple of sharks, which were kept away only -by the hand of Providence. This incident tended -to cool our ardour for fishing; and as we were satisfied -with that day’s luck, we put up our gear, -<span class="pb" id="Page_295">295</span> -during which time the boat arrived, and we -embarked for the Hill.</p> -<p>We made one short turn, however, towards the -boat which had picked up the fishermen, as we -were anxious to tell them why we did not come to -their relief. We then tacked about, and the last -words we heard from our companions were,—“Thank -you—thank you—God bless you all,” -and until we had passed a league beyond Fisher’s -Island, our little vessel “carried a most beautiful -bone between her teeth.”</p> -<p>At sunset we moored our little craft on the -eastern shore of Paucatuck Bay. On ascending -to the Watch Hill hotel, we found it to be a -large, well-furnished house, and our host to be a fat, -jolly Falstaff-ish sort of man, just suited to his -station. At seven o’clock we sat down to a black-fish -supper, then smoked a cigar, and while my -companions resorted to the ten-pin alley, I buttoned -up my pea-jacket, and sallied forth on -an exploring expedition. As I stood on the -highest point of the peninsula facing the south, -I found that the light-house was situated directly -before me, on the extreme point, that a smooth -beach faded away on either side, the left-hand -one being washed by the Atlantic, and that on the -right by the waters of Fisher Island Bay, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_296">296</span> -that the dreary hills in my rear were dotted by -an occasional dwelling. The breeze had died away, -and the bright, full moon was in the cloudless -sky. Many sails were in the offing, passing by and -being passed by the Providence and Stonington -steam-boats bound to New York. The scenery -around me, and the loveliness of the sky, with its -galaxy of stars above, caused me to forget myself, -and I wandered far away upon the shore—alone, -in the awful presence of the great Atlantic Ocean. -No sounds fell upon my ear, save the muffled -roar of the ground swell, and the faint whispers of -the tiny waves as they melted upon the sand. I -traced my name, and beside it that of another, a -being beauteous, for whose cabinet of curiosities -I gathered many a round, smooth pebble, and many -a delicate sea-shell. I wandered on, now gazing -with wonder and admiration into the cerulean -vault of Heaven, or into the still deeper blue of -the mighty sea; and now singing with a loud voice -one of the sacred songs of the sweet singer of -Israel. Now, a thousand images of surpassing loveliness -darted across my vision, as I thought of -God—of an eternal life in heaven—and of love, -divine and human; and then there came a weight -upon my spirit, as I remembered the powers of -darkness, the destiny of the condemned, and the -<span class="pb" id="Page_297">297</span> -miseries engendered by our evil passions. One -moment I deemed myself immortal, released for ever -from the contaminating influence of sin, and then -I thought of the valley of death, and trembled. In -that communion with the mysteries of the universe, -strongly blended as they were, I felt that I could -wander on without fatigue, until the whole earth -should be trodden by my pilgrim feet. But the -chilly air and the fading night warned me to -retrace my steps, and in an hour I had reached -my home.</p> -<p>When the sun rose from his ocean-bed on the -following morning, surrounded by a magnificent -array of clouds, I was up, and busily engaged preparing -for a day’s fishing,—first, and before breakfast, -for bluefish, afterwards for black-fish, and then -for bass. While my companions were asleep, I -went out with an old fisherman, and by breakfast -time had captured thirty bluefish, weighing about -two pounds a-piece. The manner of catching these -is to tow for them with a long line, the bait being -a piece of ivory attached to a strong hook. They -are a very active and powerful fish, and when -hooked make a great fuss, skipping and leaping -out of the water.</p> -<p>At nine o’clock our party were at anchor on a -reef about one mile from shore; and for the space of -<span class="pb" id="Page_298">298</span> -about two hours we hauled in the black-fish as fast as -possible, many of them weighing eight to ten -pounds a-piece. For them, you must have a small -straight hook, and for bait, lobsters or crabs. A -broiled black-fish, when rightly cooked, is considered -one of the best of saltwater delicacies.</p> -<p>But the rarest of all fishing is that of catching -bass; and a first-rate specimen I was permitted to -enjoy. About eleven o’clock, I jumped into the -surf-boat of an old fisherman, requesting him to -pull for the best bass ground with which he was -acquainted. In the mean time my friends had -obtained a large boat, and were going to follow us. -The ground having been reached, we let our boat -float wherever the tide and wind impelled it, and -began to throw over fines, using for bait the skin -of an eel six inches long. Those in the neighbouring -boat had fine luck, as they thought, having -caught some dozen five-pounders, and they seemed -to be perfectly transported because nearly an hour -had passed and I had caught nothing. In their -glee they raised a tremendous shout, but before it -had fairly died away, my line was suddenly straightened, -and I knew that I had a prize. Now it cut the -water like a streak of lightning, although there were -two hundred feet out, and as the fish returned I -still kept it taught; and after playing with him for -<span class="pb" id="Page_299">299</span> -about forty minutes, I succeeded in drowning him, -then hauled up gradually, and with my boat-hook -landed him in the boat safe and sound. The length -of that striped bass was four feet two inches, and -his weight, before cleaned, fifty-eight pounds. The -reader can easily imagine the chop-fallen appearance -of my brother fishermen, when they found out that -“the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle -to the strong.” At three o’clock in the afternoon, -a piece of that bass tended to satisfy the appetite -which had been excited by his capture.</p> -<p>Satisfied with our piscatorial sports, we concluded -to spend the rest of the day quietly gathering shells -upon the beach; but causes of excitement were still -around us. No sooner had we reached the water’s -edge, than we discovered a group of hardy men -standing on a little knoll, in earnest conversation, -while some of them were pointing towards the sea. -“To the boat—to the boat,” suddenly shouted their -leader, when they all descended with the speed of -Swiss mountaineers; and on reaching a boat which -had been made ready, they pushed her into the -surf, when three of them jumped in, and thus commenced -the interesting scene of hauling the seine. -There was something new and romantic to us in the -thought, that the keen and intelligent eye of man -could even penetrate into the deep, so far as to -<span class="pb" id="Page_300">300</span> -designate the course of travel of the tribes of the -sea. And when the seine was drawn, it was a -thrilling sight to see those fishermen tugging at the -lines, leaping into the surf, which sometimes completely -covered them, to secure the tens of thousands -of fish which they had caught. There was a grace -and beauty about the whole scene, which made me -long for the genius of a Mount or a Bingham.</p> -<p>A little before sunset, I was again strolling along -the shore, when the following incident occurred. -The reader will please return with me to the spot. -Yonder on that fisherman’s stake, a little sparrow -has just alighted, facing the main. It has been -lured away from the green bowers of home by the -music of the sea, and is now gazing, perhaps with -feelings kindred to my own, upon this most magnificent -structure of the Almighty hand. See! it -spreads its wing, and is now darting towards the -water—fearless and free. Ah! it has gone too -near! for the spray moistens its plumes! There—there -it goes, frightened back to its native woodland. -That little bird, so far as its power and -importance are concerned, seems to me a fit emblem -of the mind of man, and this great ocean an appropriate -symbol of the mind of God.</p> -<p>The achievements of the human mind “have their -passing paragraphs of praise, and are forgotten.” -<span class="pb" id="Page_301">301</span> -Man may point to the Pyramids of Egypt, which -are the admiration of the world, and exclaim, -“Behold the symbols of my power and importance!” -But most impotent is the boast. Those mighty -mysteries stand in the solitude of the desert, and -the glory of their destiny is fulfilled, in casting a -temporary shadow over the tent of the wandering -Arab.</p> -<p>The achievements of the Almighty mind are -beyond the comprehension of man, and lasting as -his own eternity. The spacious firmament, with its -suns, and moons, and stars; our globe, with its -oceans, and mountains, and rivers; the regularly -revolving seasons; and the still, small voice continually -ascending from universal nature, all proclaim -the power and goodness of their Great Original. -And everything which God has created, from the -nameless insect to the world of waters, and highway -of nations, was created for good, to accomplish some -omnipotent end. As this ocean is measureless and -fathomless, so is it an emblem, beautiful but faint, -of that wonderful Being, whose throne is above the -milky-way, and who is himself from everlasting to -everlasting. But see, there is a heavy cloud rising -in the west, the breeze is freshening, flocks of wild -ducks are flying inland, and the upper air is ringing -with the shrill whistle of the bold and wild sea-gull, -whose home is the boundless sea; therefore, as the -<span class="pb" id="Page_302">302</span> -poet Noble has somewhere written, “the shortest -homeward track’s the best.”</p> -<p>Still in the present tense would I continue. The -witching hour of midnight has again returned. A -cold rain-storm has just passed over, and the moon -is again the mistress of a cloudless sky, but the -wind is still raging in all its fury.</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t2">“I view the ships that come and go,</p> -<p class="t3">Looking so like to living things.</p> -<p class="t2">O! ’tis a proud and gallant show</p> -<p class="t3">Of bright and broad-spread wings,</p> -<p class="t0">Making it light around them, as they keep</p> -<p class="t0">Their course right onward through the unsounded deep.”</p> -<p class="lr"><i>Dana.</i></p> -</div> -<p>God be with them and their brave and gallant -crews. But again,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Where the far-off sand-bars lift</p> -<p class="t">Their backs in long and narrow line,</p> -<p class="t0">The breakers shout, and leap, and shift,</p> -<p class="t">And send the sparkling brine</p> -<p class="t0">Into the air; then rush to mimic strife;</p> -<p class="t0">Glad creatures of the sea, and full of life!”</p> -<p class="lr"><i>Ibid.</i></p> -</div> -<p>But I must stop quoting poetry, for as “a thing -of beauty is a joy for ever,” I should be for ever -writing about the sea. Heavens! What a terrible -song is the ocean singing! with his long white hair -streaming in the wind. The waving, splashing, -<span class="pb" id="Page_303">303</span> -wailing, dashing, howling, rushing, and moaning of -the waves, is a glorious lullaby, and a fit prelude to -a dream of the sea.</p> -<p>At an early hour on the following day we embarked -for home; but a sorry time did we have of it, -for the winds were very lazy. We were ten hours -going the distance of twenty-two miles. It was now -sunset, not a solitary breath of air, and we were off -Gale’s Ferry. Ashore we went, resolved to await -the coming of the Sag Harbor steam-boat, which -usually arrived about nine o’clock, and by which we -were taken in tow. Snugly seated in our boat, and -going at the rate of eighteen miles, we were congratulating -ourselves upon an early arrival home. But, -alas, at this moment the painter broke, the steamer, -unconscious of our fate, still sped onward, while we -sheered off towards the shore, almost disgusted with -human life in general—for our boat was large, and -we had but one oar. But what matter? We were -a jolly set, and the way we gave three cheers, as a -prelude to the song of “Begone Dull Care,” must -have been startling to the thousand sleeping echoes -of hill, forest, river, and glen.</p> -<p>Having crept along at snail’s pace about one mile, -we concluded to land, and, if possible, obtain a place -to sleep, and something to eat; for not having had -a regular dinner, and not a mouthful of supper, we -<span class="pb" id="Page_304">304</span> -were half starved. With clubs in our hands, to -keep off hobgoblins and bull dogs, we wended our -way towards a neighbouring farm-house, where we -knocked for admittance. Pretty soon a great -gawky-looking head stuck itself out of an upper -window, to which we made known our heartfelt -desires, receiving in return the following answer: -“My wife is sick—hain’t got any bread—you can -go in the barn to sleep if you want to;” and we -turned reluctantly away, troubled with a feeling -very nearly allied to anger. “Come, let’s go off in -this direction,” exclaimed one of the party, “and -I’ll introduce you to my old friend, Captain Somebody;”—and -away we posted, two by two, across a -new-mown field. Presently our two leaders were -awe-stricken by the sudden appearance of something -white, which seemed to be rising out of the earth -beside a cluster of bushes, and the way they wheeled -about and put for the river, (accompanied by their -fellows, whose fright was merely sympathetic,) was -“a caution” to all unbelievers in ghosts and other -midnight spectres.</p> -<p>At last we halted to gain a little breath, an explanation -was made, and our captain forthwith resolved -to investigate the matter. He now took the lead, -and on coming to the mysterious spot, discovered an -old blind white horse, who had been awakened by a -<span class="pb" id="Page_305">305</span> -noise, and, following the instinct of his nature, had -risen from his lair, to be better prepared for danger. -I doubt whether the echoes are yet silent, which -were caused by the loud and long peals of laughter -which resounded to the sky. Being in a strange -land, without chart or compass, we could not find -the mortal dwelling place of Captain Somebody, -and so we changed our course of travel.</p> -<p>We stopped at another house, farther on, but to -save our lives we could not obtain an interview, -although we entered the hen-coop, and set the cocks -and hens a cackling and crowing, the pig-pen, -and set the hogs a squealing, while a large dog and -two puppies did their best to increase and prolong -the midnight chorus. If our farmer friend did not -deem himself transported to Bedlam, about that -time, we imagine that nothing on earth would have -the power to give him such a dream. Our ill-luck -made us almost desperate, and so we returned to -the boat, resolved to row the whole distance home, -could we but find an extra oar.</p> -<p>It was now eleven o’clock, and the only things -that seemed to smile upon us were the ten thousand -stars, studding the clear, blue firmament. Anon, a -twinkling light beamed upon our vision; and as we -approached, we found it to proceed from a little hut -on an island, where a Thames lamplighter and his -<span class="pb" id="Page_306">306</span> -boy were accustomed to pass the night after their -work was done. Having again landed, we received -a hearty welcome, as the host proved to -be an old acquaintance of our captain and mate. -“Have you anything to eat?” was almost the first -question of every tongue. “No, nothing but this -barrel of crackers and some cheese,” exclaimed the -man of light. “And we,” shouted one of our -crew, “have plenty of fish;—can’t we have a -chowder?” “Ay, ay! a chowder, a chowder it -shall be,” were the words which rang aloud to the -very heavens. A wherry was despatched to the -main-land, to the well-known habitation of an old -fisherman, for the necessary iron pot and bowls -for the potatoes and onions, which were dug for the -occasion; for the pork, the pepper, and salt; all -which, added to our biscuit and black-fish, nicely -cleaned and prepared, constituted a chowder of the -very first water. There was one addition to our -company, in the person of the old fisherman; and -our appearance, as we were seated in a circle on the -floor, each with a bowl of thick hot soup in his -hands, constituted a picture rich and rare. After -we had finished it was acknowledged by all, that a -better meal had never been enjoyed by mortal man. -In about thirty minutes from this time the odd one -of the company bade us “good night,” and the -<span class="pb" id="Page_307">307</span> -midnight brotherhood resigned themselves to sleep. -The last sounds I heard, before closing my eyes, -were caused by the regular opposition steam-boats -from New York, as they shot by the island almost -as “swift as an arrow from a shivering bow.”</p> -<p>The first faint streak of daylight found us on -board our boat, homeward bound, wafted on by a -pleasant southerly breeze. At the usual hour, we -were all seated at our respective breakfast tables, -relating our adventures of the excursion just -ended.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_308">308</div> -<h2 id="c26">CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> -<blockquote> -<p class="book">A week in a Fishing Smack—Fisherman—A beautiful morning -at sea—A day at Nantucket—Wreck of a ship—Night on the -Sound.</p> -</blockquote> -<p><span class="lr">Norwich. August.</span></p> -<p>On a pleasant Monday morning I started from -Norwich, bound to New London, and from thence -to any other portion of the world where I might -have some sport in the way of salt-water fishing. -In less than an hour after landing from the steam-boat, -I had boarded the handsome smack Orleans, -Captain Keeney, and by dint of much persuasion, -secured a berth on board, to accompany him on a -fishing voyage. In addition to my previous preparations, -I had only to purchase a Guernsey shirt and -tarpaulin; and by the time I was regularly equipped, -<span class="pb" id="Page_309">309</span> -the sails were hoisted, and we were on our course -for Nantucket. An intimate acquaintance was soon -formed between myself and crew, which consisted -of the master, two sailors, and the cook. The whole -time that I spent in their company was six days, as -I reached home on the following Saturday evening. -The incidents that I met with were somewhat new, -as a matter of course, and I employed a few -moments of every evening during my absence, in -briefly recording the events of the past day; and -that medley I now put together as a literary -chowder.</p> -<p><i>Monday Evening.</i>—My observations to-day have -been limited to our little vessel, in consequence of a -dense fog, which drenched us to the skin, and seems -likely to continue. I have obtained some information, -however, concerning the character of an interesting -class of men. Smack-fishermen are a brave, hardy, -honest, and simple-hearted race, and as my captain -tells me, spend nine-tenths of their time “rocked in -the cradle of the deep.” Their vessels, or smacks, are -generally of about forty tons burthen; the number -of those which supply New York and Boston with -fish is said to be near a thousand, and they are all -at home anywhere on the coast between the Kennebeck -and the Delaware. Of the perils which these -fishermen endure, and the privations they suffer, -<span class="pb" id="Page_310">310</span> -how little is known or thought by the great world -at large! Yet I believe there is as much true -happiness in their lives, as in those of any other -class. Their fathers were fishermen before them, -and as they themselves have mostly been born within -hearing of the surf, they look upon the unsounded -deep as their fitting home—their only home, and -would not part with it for a palace or a crown. -Four is the usual number of a smack’s crew, and -the master is invariably called a skipper. Most of -them are worthy husbands and fathers, whose -families are snugly harboured in some convenient -sea-port, with enough and to spare of the good -things of life. They are a jovial set of men, hailing -each other upon the ocean as friends, and meeting -upon land as brothers. Each skipper thinks his -craft the handsomest and swiftest that floats, and -very exciting are the races they sometimes run. -Their affection for their own vessel is like that of -the Arab for his steed, and like the Arab, too, they -have been known to weep over the grave of their -darling and their pride.</p> -<p>The kinds of fish which they mostly bring to -market are shad, salmon, lobsters, mackerel, cod, -bluefish, haddock, black-fish, pangies, bass, and -halibut. The first three are generally purchased of -local fishermen, but all the rest are caught by themselves. -<span class="pb" id="Page_311">311</span> -The haunts of the black-fish are rocky reefs, -those of the bass and bluefish, in the vicinity of -sandy shoals or tide rips, and those of the remainder -in about fifteen fathom water. These are the -varieties they capture by way of business; but when -in a frolicsome mood, they frequently attack a sword-fish, -a shark, or black whale; and soul-thrilling -indeed, and laughable withal, are the yarns they -spin concerning these exploits.</p> -<p>As to their mode of living, while at sea, it is just -what it should be, and what they would have it, -although it would be positively shocking to a -Bond Street gentleman. But they always possess a -good appetite, which is what money cannot purchase, -and without which the greatest delicacy in -the world would be insipid or loathsome. Fish, -sea-biscuit, corned-beef, and pork, potatoes, onions, -and pancakes, constitute their provisions, and what -besides these would a reasonable man desire? It -is with a mixture of some of these, that a <i>chowder</i> -is concocted, and where can anything more delicious -be found? And with these ingredients, moreover, -they manage very well to keep body and soul -together, unless a storm on a rock-bound coast -happens to make a sudden separation.</p> -<p>I have just been on deck, and must say that -I resume my pen with a heavier heart. The fog -<span class="pb" id="Page_312">312</span> -has not dispersed in the least, a regular gale of -wind is blowing from the north, and the waves, -seemingly in a revengeful mood, are tossing our -bark about, as if the skipper, like the Ancient -Mariner, had shot another albatros. But, like a -fearless man as he is, he stands at the helm, -watching the sails with a steady eye, and the men -with their storm-jackets on are standing by, muttering -something about the coming darkness, and a -reef somewhere on our lee. Never before have I -so distinctly understood the force of the Psalmist’s -simile, when he compares a wave to a drunken -man reeling to and fro. Both have it in their -power to cause a mighty mischief, and both become -exhausted and perish—one upon a sandy beach, -and the other sweeping over the peninsula of time, -finds a grave on the shore of oblivion. Heavens! -how the wind whistles, and the waters roar! Ay, -but a still small voice salutes my ear, and I lay -me down to sleep, with a prayer upon my lips, -and a feeling of security at my heart, as I place -implicit confidence in Him who holdeth the ocean in -the hollow of his hand.</p> -<p><i>Tuesday Evening.</i>—I was awakened out of a -deep sleep this morning by the following salutation -from the skipper, as he patted me on the -shoulder,</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_313">313</div> -<p>“It’s a beautiful morning, and you ought to be -up—the fog is gone, and the wind is down; won’t -you come up and take the helm awhile—so that -the boys and I may obtain a little sleep before -reaching the fishing-ground, which will be about, -ten o’clock?”</p> -<p>I was delighted to accept the invitation, and in -a very short time the sailors were asleep, and I in -my new station, proud as a king, and happy -as a sinless boy. And, oh! that I could describe -the scene that fascinated my eyes as I lay there -upon the deck, with one arm reposing on the -rudder, and my other hand grasping a Claude -glass! I felt as I once felt before, when standing -on the famous precipice of Niagara, that then, more -than ever, I desired God to be my friend. I also -felt, that if the world did not demand the feeble -services of my life, I should wish to remain upon -the ocean for ever, provided I could have “one fair -being for my minister.” More earnestly than ever -did I long for a complete mastery of my art. The -fact of being out of sight of land, where the blue -element announced that the ocean was soundless, -filled my soul with that “lone, lost feeling,” which -is supposed to be the eagle’s, when journeying to -the zenith of the sky. The sun had just risen -above the waves, and the whole eastern portion of -<span class="pb" id="Page_314">314</span> -the heavens was flooded with the most exquisite -colouring I ever beheld—from the deepest crimson -to the faintest and most delicate purple, from the -darkest yellow to an almost invisible green; and -all blended, too, in forms of marvellous loveliness. -A reflection of this scene was also visible in the -remaining quarters of the horizon. Around me the -illimitable deep, whose bosom is studded with many -a gallant and glittering ship,</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t3">that have the plain</p> -<p class="t0">Of ocean for their own domain.</p> -</div> -<p>The waves are lulling themselves to rest, and a -balmy breeze is wandering by, as if seeking its old -grandfather, who kicked up the grand “rumpus” -last night; whereby I learn, that the offspring of a -“rough and stormy sire,” are sometimes very -beautiful and affectionate to the children of men. -But look, even the dwellers in the sea and of the -sea are participating in the hilarity of this bright -morning! Here, a school of herrings are skipping -along like a frolicsome party of vagabonds as they -are—and yonder a shark has leaped out of the -water, to display the symmetry of his form, and -the largeness of his jaw, and looking as if he -thought “that land-lubber would make me a first-rate -breakfast;” there, a lot of porpoises are playing -“leap-frog,” or some other outlandish game; and, -<span class="pb" id="Page_315">315</span> -a little beyond them, a gentleman sword-fish is -swaggering along to parts unknown, to fight a -duel in cold blood with some equally cold-blooded -native of the Atlantic; and now, a flock of gulls are -cleaving their course to the south, to the floating -body, perhaps, of a drowned mariner, which their -sagacity has discovered a league or two away—and -now, again, I notice a flock of petrels, hastening -onward to where the winds blow, and the waves -are white. Such are the pictures I beheld in my -brief period of command. It may have been but -fancy, but I thought my little vessel was trying to -eclipse her former beauty, and her former speed. -One thing I know, that she “walked the water like -a thing of life.”</p> -<p>I fancied, too, that I was the identical last man -whom Campbell saw in his vision, and that I was -then bound to the haven of eternal rest. But my -shipmates returning from the land of Nod, and a -certain clamour within my own body having caught -my ear, I became convinced that to break my fast -would make me happier than anything else just at -that time, and I was soon as contented as an -alderman at five <span class="small">P.M.</span> About two hours after this, -we reached our fishing-place, which was twenty miles -east of Nantucket. We then lowered the jib and -topsail, and having luffed, and fastened the main-sheet, -<span class="pb" id="Page_316">316</span> -so that the smack could easily float, we hauled -out our lines, and commenced fishing, baiting our -hooks with clams, of which we had some ten -bushels on board. Cod fishing (for we were on a -codding cruise) is rather dull sport; it is, in fact, -what I would call hard labour. In six hours we -had caught all the skipper wanted, or that the well -would hold, so we made sail again, bound to New -York; and at supper-time the deck of our smack -was as clean and dry, as if it had never been pressed -save by the feet of ladies. At sunset, however, a -fierce southerly wind sprang up, so that we were -compelled to make a harbour; and just as I am -closing this record, we are anchoring at Nantucket, -with a score of storm-beaten whales on our starboard -bow.</p> -<p><i>Wednesday Evening.</i> The weather to-day has been -threatening, and the skipper thought it best to -remain at our moorings; but with me the day -has not been devoid of interest; for, in my sailor -garb, I have been strolling about the town, studying -the solemn drama of life, while playfully acting a -subordinate part myself. This morning, as it happened, -I went into the public cemetery, and spent -an hour conning over the rude inscriptions to the -memory of the departed. In that city of the dead, -I saw a number of the living walking to and fro, -<span class="pb" id="Page_317">317</span> -but there was one who attracted my particular -attention. He was a seaman of noble presence, -seated upon an unmarked mound, with his feet -resting upon a smaller one beside it, his head -reclined upon one hand, while the other was -occasionally passed across his face, as if wiping -away a tear. I hailed him with a few kind -questions, and my answer was the following brief -tale.</p> -<p>“Yes, sir, four years ago, I shipped aboard that -whaler yonder, leaving behind me, in a sweet little -cottage of my own, a mother, a wife, and an only -boy. They were all in the enjoyment of good -health, and happy; and, when we were under sail, -and I saw from the mast-head how kindly they -waved their handkerchiefs beside my door, I too was -happy, even in my hour of grief. Since that time I -have circumnavigated the globe, and every rare curiosity -I could obtain was intended for my darling -ones at home. Last Saturday our ship returned. I -asked no questions of the pilot for he was a -stranger, but I landed, flew to my dwelling, and -found it locked. The flagging in my yard attracted -my notice, and I thought it strange that the rank -grass had been suffered to grow over it so thickly. -The old minister passed by my gate, and running to -him with extended hand, I inquired for my family. -<span class="pb" id="Page_318">318</span> -‘Oh Mr. B.,’ said he, ‘you must bless the Lord,—he -gave them to you, and he hath taken them -away.’ And as the thought stole into my brain, my -suffering, sir, was intense, and I longed to die. -And there they are, my wife and darling child, and, -a step or two beyond, my dear old mother. Peace -to their memories.”</p> -<p>Such was the simple story, and I have pondered -much upon the world of woe which must be hidden -in the breast of that old mariner.</p> -<p>After dinner, to-day, I got into company with -some fishermen who were going after bass and -bluefish, and in a short time I had captured, with -my own hands, two big bass and some dozen bluefish,—which -I packed in ice as a present to some -New York friends.</p> -<p>At my present time of writing, which is near ten -o’clock at night, we are weighing anchor, and the -skipper tells me we shall be in New York by to-morrow’s -sunset. An hour before coming on board -this evening, I lounged into a sailor boarding-house, -and mingled as freely with a company of whalemen -there, as if I had been a <i>bonâ fide</i> member of the -craft. I heard a great deal that interested me, and -was sorry that I could not remain longer. There -were some in that company lately arrived from -every portion of the world, and yet they were -<span class="pb" id="Page_319">319</span> -engaged in the same business, and had journeyed -on the same mighty highway of nations. One was -descanting upon the coral islands of the Torrid zone, -another upon the ice-mountains of the Arctic Sea, a -third was describing the coast of California, and -another the waters that lave the Eastern shore of -Asia. The more I listened to these men, the more -did the immensity of ocean expand before my mind, -and in the same proportion was I led to wonder at -the wisdom of the Creator.</p> -<p>I have just been on deck, and find that we are on -the way to our desired haven, wafted by a steady -and pleasant breeze. Our course is between -Martha’s Vineyard and Rhode Island, a route -studded with islands and seaports, that now appear -in the cool starlight like the pictures of fairy -land.</p> -<p><i>Thursday Evening.</i> Instead of coming through -the Sound last night, we headed our vessel outside -of Long Island, and after a delightful sail have -realized our skipper’s promise, for we are now -floating beside the market in New York. The -reason assigned for taking the outside course was, -that the fish would keep better, on account of the -greater coldness of the water. Nothing of peculiar -interest has happened to us to-day, except the -<span class="pb" id="Page_320">320</span> -meeting with a wreck off Sandy Hook. It was the -hull of a large ship, whose name we could not -discern. It had a very old appearance, and from -the moss and sea-weed that covered it, we supposed -it must have been afloat for many months, the -plaything of the waves. “Man marks the earth -with ruin,” but who is it that scatters such splendid -ruins upon the ocean? And a thousand remorseless -surges echo back the answer: “To us, belong -the glory of those deeds.” If that wreck had -language, what a strange, eventful history would it -reveal! Its themes would be,—home and all its -treasures lost; the sea, and all its dangers; the -soul, and all its agonies; the heart, and all its sufferings. -But when we multiply all this as fast as -time is multiplying it, we cannot but realize the -idea, that human life is but a probationary state, -and that sorrow and sighing are our earthly inheritance.</p> -<p><i>Friday Evening.</i> After portioning out my fish -this morning, and sending them to my friends, I -put on my usual dress, and having obtained a six -hours’ furlough, set off towards Broadway, where, -between the reading rooms and the studios of a few -artists, I managed to spend my time very pleasantly. -At noon, we embarked for New London and had a -<span class="pb" id="Page_321">321</span> -delightful time, passing through the East River -and that pleasing panorama from the city to the -Sound, never before appeared more beautiful.</p> -<p>It is now late, and I have been on -deck all the evening alone. In a thoughtful -mood I fixed my eyes upon the stars, and my -spirits were saddened by the continual murmur -of the sea. Of what avail, thought I, is all -this excitement? Why was I created, and what is -my destiny? Is it to sail for a few brief years -longer upon the ocean of life, and, when the death-tempest -overtakes me, to pass away unloved and -unremembered by a single human heart? If not -an honoured name, can I not leave behind me an -humble memory, that will be cherished by a few, -to whom I have laid bare my innermost soul, when -I was younger than I am, and a hundred-fold more -happy? What! O night! what is my destiny?</p> -<p><i>Saturday Evening.</i> We anchored off New London -to-day, in time for me to take the evening -steamer for Norwich. When I parted with my -“shipmates,” I shook each one affectionately by the -hand, and thought that I might travel many years -without finding a brotherhood of nobler men. I -reached home as the eight o’clock bells were ringing, -and was reminded that another week of precious -<span class="pb" id="Page_322">322</span> -time was gone. That the past must be remembered -as an unprofitable week, I cannot believe, for I feel -that my soul has been enlarged, and my heart -humbled by listening to the teachings of the -mighty deep.</p> -<h2 id="c27">Footnotes</h2> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>The -word Schroon is bad English for the Indian word <i>Scaroon</i>, -the meaning of which is—“<i>Child of the Mountains</i>.” It was -originally named by an Algonquin Chief, after a favourite daughter. -</div> -</div> - -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="small">THE END.</span></p> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="small">LONDON: -<br />Printed by Schulze & Co., Poland Street</span></p> - -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> - -<h2 id="c28">Transcriber’s Note</h2> -<ul> -<li>Obvious typographical errors were corrected.</li> -<li>The book cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</li> -</ul> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER IN CANADA, NOVA SCOTIA AND THE UNITED STATES***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 53939-h.htm or 53939-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/9/3/53939">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/9/3/53939</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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