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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints for Tourists - -Author: Phillips Morris - -Release Date: January 8, 2017 [EBook #53924] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABROAD AND AT HOME *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - - _ANNOUNCEMENTS._ - - ESTABLISHED 1850. - - INMAN LINE. - - UNITED STATES AND ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS - - CITY OF PARIS, 10,500 Tons. - CITY OF NEW YORK, 10,500 “ - CITY OF BERLIN, 5,491 Tons. - CITY OF CHICAGO, 6,000 “ - CITY OF CHESTER, 4,770 Tons. - - [Illustration] - - New York, Queenstown AND Liverpool. - - FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $60 to $650, - - ACCORDING TO STEAMER AND LOCATION OF ACCOMMODATIONS. - - NOTE.--Round Trip Tickets issued at reduced rates, and the return - portion can, if desired, be used by =RED STAR LINE= from Antwerp to - New York or Philadelphia. - - INTERNATIONAL NAVIGATION CO., - - General Agents, - - 6 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK. - - * * * * * - - SIMPSON’S - - (LIMITED) - - DIVAN TAVERN, - - 103 STRAND, - - Opposite Exeter Hall,--LONDON. - - [Illustration] - - -The premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of fifty -years, which still retains its supremacy for being the house to get the -best English Dinner in London at a moderate price. There is also a -magnificent Ladies’ Dining Room where ladies can dine in the same style -and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs. Private rooms for -large or small parties. - -Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton specially -cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of professed -Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables. Matured wines and -spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom. - -E. W. CATHIE, MANAGING DIRECTOR. - - * * * * * - - LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY - - THE OLD ROUTE IN THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS’ FAVORITE. - - IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE. - - - SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM - - =LIVERPOOL= (Lime Street Station) to =LONDON= (Euston Station). under - FOUR AND A-HALF HOURS =to GLASGOW= (Central Station), in FIVE AND - THREE-QUARTER HOURS. - - =QUEENSTOWN to LONDON via Dublin and Holyhead=, in SIXTEEN HOURS AND - TEN MINUTES. - - * * * * * - -=Baggage Checked Through from New York to London.= - -=At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses= from Landing Stage, and =Special Trains= -from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station and Hotel. - -=NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, Liverpool=, the best and -largest--the hotel for Americans. - -=SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London= when requisite to make close -connection with steamers arriving from America. - -=Elegant Vestibule Drawing-Room Cars without extra charge.= Compartments -with lavatories, and private saloon and family carriages for parties -without extra charge. - -=Sleeping Cars= with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth in -addition to first-class fares. - -=DINING CARS= on principal trains and “American Specials.” - -=Luncheon Baskets= at the principal Stations. - -=In LONDON, Family Omnibuses= can be obtained, at the =Euston Hotel= (at the -Station), noted for its =Cellar= and its French =Cuisine=, will be found -most comfortable. - -=THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY= has =NOT= abolished Second Class -Carriages; passengers to whom economy is an object, but who do not wish -to travel Third Class, can combine comfort with economy by traveling -Second Class by this line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third -Class Carriages on all trains except the =Irish Mails= to and from Dublin. - -The Company’s Agents, =Mr. W. STIRLING, at Queenstown=, and =Mr. FRED. W. -THOMPSON, at Liverpool=, meet the American Steamers on arrival, and -secure omnibuses, seats, saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give -general information. - -=THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris=, and principal stations in -=England=, =Scotland=, =Ireland=, =Wales=, and Continent of Europe. - -=TICKETS=, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels can be -obtained from the Company’s Agent, =Mr. D. BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., -Montreal=, and - -=Mr. C. A. BARATTONI=, Gen’l Agent for the U. S. and Canada, =852 Broadway=, -near Union Square, =New York=. - - * * * * * - - =G. P. NEELE=, - Superintendent of the Line. - =London=, Euston Station. - - =E. MICHEL=, - Foreign Traffic Superintendent. - - G. FINDLAY, Gen’l Manager. - - * * * * * - - HOTEL WINDSOR, - - VICTORIA STREET, - - Westminster, LONDON, S.W. - -[Illustration: - -Hotel -Windsor - -VICTORIA STREET, -WESTMINSTER, S.W. - -_J. R. Cleave & C^o. -Proprietors._ -] - -Convenient and central location; European or American system; the only -hotel in London with Turkish and other baths; elevators; electrically -lighted throughout, day and night. - - J. R. CLEAVE & CO., PROPRIETORS. - - [Illustration: _Morris Phillips_] - - - - - ABROAD AND AT HOME - - PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS - - BY - - MORRIS PHILLIPS - - EDITOR OF - - THE HOME JOURNAL - - NEW YORK - - NEW YORK - BRENTANO’S - PARIS WASHINGTON CHICAGO LONDON - - COPYRIGHT 1891, - BY - MORRIS PHILLIPS - - THE ART PRESS, - DEMPSEY & CARROLL, - 36 EAST 14TH STREET, - NEW YORK. - - TO THE MEMORY OF - - GEORGE W. HOWS, - - MY FAITHFUL FELLOW-WORKER AND DEAR FRIEND OF - MANY YEARS, THIS VOLUME OF SKETCHES IS - AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. - - “_Travel is the great - source of true wisdom._” - --BEACONSFIELD. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - -Preface, by the Hon. A. OAKEY HALL, 5 - - -GREAT BRITAIN. - -London on Wheels, 9 - -London Hotels, 24 - -A Few Boarding Houses, 47 - -Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, 49 - -Railway Travelling in England, 59 - -An Hour with Spurgeon, 67 - -The Crypt of St. Paul’s, 71 - -The Queen’s Mews, 74 - -A Question of Hats, 77 - -London Oddities, 79 - -Poverty and Charity in England, 85 - -Where is Charing Cross? 88 - -Margate, 89 - -Two Brighton Hotels, 97 - -A Visit to Bleak House, 100 - -Takin’ Notes in Edinboro’ Town, 105 - -The Burns Monument, 112 - -Rt. Rev. the Moderator, James MacGregor, D.D., 116 - -Crossing the Channel, 123 - - -PARIS. - -Paris Hotels, 124 - -Pensions of the First Class, 134 - -The Restaurants of Paris, 137 - -The Anglo-American Banking Co., 146 - -Au Bon Marché, 147 - - -THE UNITED STATES. - -GEORGIA-- - -The De Soto, Savannah, 149 - -Thomasville, 155 - -A New Southern Resort, 165 - -FLORIDA-- - -A Cuban City (Key West), 171 - -St. Augustine, 180 - -About Tampa, 185 - -CALIFORNIA-- - -Monterey, 190 - -San Diego and Coronado, 199 - -Santa Cruz, 213 - -Redondo Beach, 221 - -Pasadena, 225 - -Los Angeles, 231 - -The California Hotel, San Francisco, 235 - -Salt Lake City, 239 - -The Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, 243 - -Max O’Rell on American Hotels, 249 - - - - -PREFACE. - - -A continuous residence in London of eight years has satisfied me that -precisely such a book, so far as it relates to that city, which my -friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed. - -That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even to readers who -have never been tourists thither, “goes without saying.” Moreover, there -are in these pages views, comments and sights of the “abroad” and “at -home” additionally valuable; therefore I gladly accept his invitation to -prepare a short preface to this volume of an American M. P. in the -Parliament of Letters. - -He first broached his idea of papers about London at a capital luncheon, -when meeting together there we discussed with palates, forks and wine -glasses a tempting _menu_ during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host -Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the top of the -historic St. James’s street. - -We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, and I doubt not, that -every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that -toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal. - -When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the inviting shadow of -the Northwestern Railway station hotel, that is flanked by two smaller -inns and its centre pierced by several taverns, or direct from -Southampton at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a score -of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, that tourist’s -earliest question will be, which hospitable _caravanserai_ shall I -patronize? - -His second question will concern his vehicular desires for -transportation by cab, ’bus or railway. Other queries will suggest -themselves regarding the “How,” the “Where,” the “Which” and the “Why” -of his new London surroundings. - -With this volume on shipboard _en route_: or in railway carriage _in -transitu_, the tourist will already possess answers in his mind to those -queries or similar ones respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow; and will not be -at the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of contestant -“cabbies,” or of the shady sharpers who throng railway platforms. - -Once well housed in any of the places herein mentioned, and once -understanding, by the aid of the ensuing pages, how to get about in the -vast metropolis--wherein one may ride sixteen miles from extreme north -to a suburban south, and fourteen miles from west to east without -quitting paved and lighted streets, or the continuity of habitations--a -traveler’s eyes and ears will be all the Mentors he will require. - -Of so-called guide books (of which class this is not), there are in -London and elsewhere abroad confusing scores, but the average tourist -ought to shun guide-books as he would a Bradshaw, unless he loves -charades, puzzles and conundrums. - -Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his footing, the child -will walk confidently. This volume serves to give the person who -arrives in London or Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In -the parlance of the race course, it is the “starter.” - -On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and learn the points of -compass; because all enquiries about the “Where” in London hinge on -those. - -The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will be found as valuable -as they are piquant. He tells of certain trips (and tips) on top of a -’bus; he vividly describes how the best way for exploring London is to -ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses--devoting days to -the task, or rather pleasure--and when, as street after street is -passed, reading their names, which are always sign-affixed to the -turn--a convenience even for residents which, in late years, is -strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality and prominent -buildings and often-referred-to neighborhoods become fixed in an -observer’s mind for future uses of memory. - -I learned to know London “like a book”--as common phrase goes: and, I -therefore fully appreciate how much this book will serve to teach new -tourists how to begin to learn London; how much it will revive pleasant -memories in former tourists; how greatly it will instruct intending -tourists; how pleasantly it will amuse those who may not expect to -practically patronize the hotels; how well it will instruct as to -London’s vehicles and the wonders of the English city, which is -practically seventeen centuries older than New York. - -But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic volume. Not -only is it inviting to Americans who wish to know about the -“across-the-ocean-ferry,” but it will be attractive to the countrymen of -the M. P. who may travel or who would like to travel Westward, “where -the star of Empire takes its way.” And also to the foreign tourist who -may for only one week reside, _in transitu_ to the States, upon the -floating greyhoundish hotels which we call steamships. - -Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the wonders, the hotels, -the coasts, and the traveling--especially toward the Pacific ocean--are -equally marvelous to English M. P.’s and foreign ladies and gentlemen of -fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes and comforts. - -Merely “turning the leaves,” a phrase happily used as a heading for book -notices by the author of “Kissing the Rod” in his _World_ newspaper of -London, will at once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied. - -A. OAKEY HALL. - -LOTOS CLUB, January 21, 1892. - - - - -LONDON ON WHEELS. - -ABOVE GROUND, ON THE GROUND, AND UNDER GROUND. - - -THE UNDER-GROUND LINES. - -How the five millions of people in London “get about” to their daily -avocations and homes is a mystery to those who have not made the subject -a study. So I have gathered some information which will throw a little -light on it. - -Let me start out with the statement that besides the ten large terminal -stations, like the Euston Square and the Midland, both in Euston Road, -there are four hundred and thirty railway stations within the -metropolis, and the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred -and twenty-five millions of passengers. The underground roads have been -in existence for more than a quarter of a century, and are found to -answer the purpose admirably of relieving the over-ground traffic. They -are convenient, cheap and comparatively quick; but decidedly unpleasant, -if not positively unhealthy. - -They now form a network of rails under the surface, and they have been a -success from the first. They are a great engineering triumph, and may be -said to have marked a new epoch in the history of London. The act -permitting the tunneling was passed in 1853. Mr. John Fowler conducted -the herculean labor, and underneath the streets of the busiest of -cities, down where the soil was honeycombed with other works--gas pipes, -water mains, drains and sewers--a railway line, costing upwards of one -hundred and fifty thousand pounds per mile, was constructed almost -without the knowledge of those above. For three years--from the spring -of 1860 to the beginning of 1863--two thousand men, two hundred horses -and fifty-eight engines were employed. When completed another difficulty -presented itself, but was overcome by Mr. Fowler, who invented a -locomotive which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary -engine, but which, while in the tunnel, emits neither steam nor smoke, -being so constructed as to be able to condense the one and consume the -other. - -And yet, after a long ride in the under-ground, you always emerge with a -headache. - -Of course the cars have to be lighted artificially, and they had not -learned to use the electric light in them when I last was in London in -October, 1891. Gas is a poor substitute in such a place. You are forced -to read your newspaper in a dim light, and the gas consumes much of the -oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the stations, and from openings -en route, which are made for the purpose. - -Yet you do not get about as quickly in the underground as you would -imagine. To avoid obstructions, and for mechanical reasons, the road -takes a circuitous route and you frequently must ride a long way around -to go a comparatively short distance. - -Millions of Londoners, who go direct from home to business, seldom get -into an under-ground train. There are many over-ground lines built on -brick arches which go to the suburbs, where rents are low; for every -Englishman must have his own house, no matter how small, which he -regards as his “castle.” These trains are quick and cheap, and you are -blessed with ample light and good air--at least as good as you can get -in foggy, smoky London. - -On all roads, whether on trunk lines, on local, overground or -underground lines, there are first, second and third-class cars, or -“carriages,” as they call them. Even some omnibuses that ply from the -trunk line stations also have compartments for different classes; your -Englishman is very particular with whom he rides. - -Occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in third-class -carriages of local or suburban lines, but on through trains, say between -Liverpool and London, the third-class carriages are comfortable, and the -travelers of a respectable class. - -There is a great difference in the rates, and on a long journey it is -worth consideration. First-class fare is almost double that of -third-class. Second-class is neither one thing nor the other, and on -some lines it has been abolished. - -It is an old saying that only princes, Americans and fools travel -first-class. I don’t care under which head they place me, so long as -they place me in a first-class “carriage.” That it is more comfortable -is incontrovertible, if you’ll pardon such a big word. I say this in the -face of what John Stuart Mill said, that the only reason he rode -third-class was because there was no fourth. - - -ELECTRIC LINES UNDER GROUND. - -The _Forum_ last summer printed a very good description from the pen of -Simon Sterne, of the new electric under-ground railway in London, and -the Sunday _Sun_ last autumn had an elaborate article on the subject, -which, with illustrations, occupied nearly a whole page. - -It is a quick and convenient means of locomotion, and to accomplish it -was a work of wonderful engineering skill for which the inventor, Mr. -Peter Greathead, cannot be praised too highly; but the riding is by no -means pleasant. - -In a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passengers, you descend a -distance of eighty feet below the surface--part of the road running -beneath the bed of the river Thames. The cars are small and fairly well -lighted, but they have an unpleasant vibration, and although the air is -not noticeably impure, there is an uncanny feeling with the knowledge -that you are burrowing, as it were, in the bowels of the earth. - -The road, probably an experimental one, is only three miles long, -extending south from “the monument” in the city. It has not, thus far, -proved a success pecuniarily, the cost of construction being so great, -although no land was purchased except for the stations. - - -HANSOMS AND FOUR-WHEELERS. - -Street cars are not needed in the city. Nearly all London streets are in -as good condition for driving as our Central Park roads. There are eight -thousand hansoms, four thousand four-wheelers, and two thousand -omnibuses, so that you are not obliged to walk on account of the absence -of cars. The four-wheeled cabs, or “growlers,” as they term them, are -dilapidated, uncomfortable vehicles, which lack new springs, and are -dirty both inside and out. The horses and the drivers are old and -superannuated; they have all seen better days in private carriages or -hansom cabs. You never take a four-wheeler if you are alone, or if the -party consists of only two persons. You must engage one if you have a -trunk, but if you are going to catch a train or boat you had better -allow a half hour’s margin. - -The London cab service is the best and cheapest in the world. I say -this, notwithstanding that I remember hiring a cab in Key West, in the -Gulf of Mexico, for a dime. But such cabs and such horses! The rate in -a hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons, no fare less than -one shilling (twenty-five cents); by the hour, two-and-six (sixty-two -cents). - - -HOW THEY DRIVE. - -England is the only place I know of where they drive to the left. -English drivers say that by sitting on the right and driving to the -left, they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels, and thus -prevent collisions. A cabbie’s attention is given entirely to the -roadway; pedestrians must look out for themselves or be run over. That -is why so many of the London police are engaged solely in attending to -street traffic. Yet with all their vigilance, more accidents occur in -London, proportionately, than elsewhere. London drivers are polite and -very civil to each other. If an obstruction appears in front of a horse, -or if for any reason he is obliged suddenly to slow up, the driver will -immediately notify the driver in the rear by holding out horizontally -his left arm; and this sign is passed down from one driver to another, -until the very end of the line of blocked vehicles is reached. - -People who have not visited London for several years, will find cabs -greatly improved. There is a new, patent hansom. In these you are saved -the trouble of opening and closing the doors; this is done by the driver -by touching a lever on the top of the vehicle. The new style of cab has -thick rubber tires, which add considerably to ease and comfort in -riding. So little noise does the vehicle make in going over London’s -smooth-paved streets, that these cabs are provided with bells to warn -pedestrians of their approach. The interior fittings include a holder -for lighted cigars, a box of matches, a small, bevelled mirror on -either side of the cab, and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a rubber -tube with a whistle at the end. You lightly press the bulb, and in this -way whistle to Cabbie on top, who hears the summons above the roar of -the streets, and responds by opening his trap door in the roof to -receive instructions. - -The law does not permit the drivers of these well-appointed and rather -luxurious vehicles to charge more than do the drivers of the ordinary -cabs; but as the new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire, and as they -are so much superior to the old style, you do not begrudge paying a -trifle extra. The drivers pay for these improved hansoms sixteen -shillings (four dollars) per day, except during “the season,” when the -owners exact a guinea per day, about five dollars. - -The speed with which the London cabs are driven is something -alarming--alarming to a stranger. In New York a cab driver has some -little regard for the lives and limbs of pedestrians; in Paris the -horses are so poor and skeleton-like, and go so slow, that pedestrians -have no fear whatever; but in London you must look out wholly for -yourself; Cabbie will certainly not look out for you. If he is engaged -by the course, he only has his destination in mind. London cab horses -are the best horses in the world used for such a purpose. With rubber -tires to the wheels, and the wheels going over clean and perfectly -smooth roadways, there is nothing to obstruct their speed, and the -animals go like the wind. They and their drivers seem to stand in fear -of nothing but a policeman, and as London has good laws for regulating -vehicles, and as these laws are strictly obeyed, the mere warning look -of a policeman is respected and obeyed. - -London drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered as New York -drivers. They do not, as a rule, curse or swear at each other as ours -do, who are always ready with a foul oath. If a “block” occurs they -take it good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the police as -quickly as possible. Our drivers are only satisfied when they can take a -mean advantage of their fellows, get in their way and put them to -inconvenience. It may be Yankee “goaheadativeness,” or the spirit of -freedom and independence which prompts this show of ill-temper, but for -my part I prefer the laughing, jocular, good-tempered London driver. - -On my last visit to London, where I stayed one month, I saw a great many -“blocks,” but heard only one quarrel between drivers, and that was not -at all serious. They will, however, chaff each other, saying something -like this:--“Oh, come, pull yourself together there;” or “I say, -country, why don’t you learn to drive before you come up to London?” The -term “up to London,” by the way, is put to singular use there. Although -London is in the south of England, you always go “up to London,” if you -even go from Carlisle, which is in the extreme north, on the Scotch -border. - - -STREET CARS. - -There are no street cars run by the trolley, storage or any other -electric system; no cable cars, no horse cars; not a track is laid for a -surface road in “the city” proper. Many Americans leave London without -ever seeing a street car of any kind, and yet in the metropolis one -thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and twenty miles of -track, but they are not permitted in crowded thoroughfares; they are -confined to the outlying districts. I have only seen them in the east -end, in the district known as “The Boro’” and near the Victoria Station. -The street cars are “double deckers,” and, like the ’buses, they carry -more outside than inside passengers, but the number of passengers is -limited. When the car has reached its limit it will take up no more -passengers. Every passenger has the right to a seat, and, to use a -paradoxical phrase, every Englishman stands up for his right to a seat. - - -OMNIBUSES. - -The two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or nine thousand horses. -The number of miles run annually by the omnibuses is five and a half -millions, and the number of passengers carried not less than forty-eight -millions. - -Such a heavy, slow-going, cumbersome vehicle as the London omnibus could -not be used on our rough-and-tumble roads. It is poorly ventilated, if -you can call it ventilated, for the windows are closed and are -immovable. The only means of ventilation is by the door, in the rear, -near which everybody tries to get. As fast as the choice seats near the -door are vacated, they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers, -and the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place, which is -nearest the front. But in fine weather a man never gets inside while -there is a vacant seat on top, and it is no strange sight to see women -occupying outside seats to escape the stifling air inside. - -Nor does wet weather deter an Englishman from taking an open air seat. -Most Englishmen wear a “mackintosh” in threatening weather and there’s a -great deal of such weather in London. To every seat on the top of a ’bus -there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron to protect the knees, and -with an umbrella, which is always part of an Englishman’s costume, they -manage to keep perfectly dry. - -The omnibuses are so freely used for advertising purposes, the outside -is so nearly covered with attractive and gaudy signs of business houses -that it is exceedingly difficult to read or discover the route or -destination of the vehicle. You may be looking for Blackwall or Putney, -but you will read “Hyams’ thirteen-shilling trousers “or “Day & Martin’s -blacking is the best.” - -The ’buses do not confine themselves to the middle of the roadway and -allow passengers to pick and fight their way through a crowd of -vehicles, New York-like; they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to -enter or leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble. -Conductors will also leave their perch, approach the sidewalk (Anglice, -pavement) to consult or advise with a prospective passenger who is in -doubt as to which ’bus he should take. Time seems of no importance: they -are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we are. Whether from -the excessive competition or from some other cause I know not: I do know -that public servants in England are much more civil and polite than they -are in this “free” country. - -There are rules which control London omnibuses, and these it is the duty -of the police to strictly enforce. A ’bus is licensed and allowed to -carry only so many passengers, and this license or limit must be posted -on a conspicuous part of the vehicle. The majority are “licensed to -carry twenty-six passengers; twelve inside and fourteen outside.” - -In 1890 the London police force numbered thirteen thousand eight hundred -and fifty-five men, not counting the nine hundred and two officers who -form a special organization in what is termed “the city.” A considerable -part of the time and attention of the police is devoted to governing -street traffic. Policemen will watch and follow a ’bus for several -blocks if they think it contains more passengers than the law allows. -When they are assured that this is the case they go to a magistrate and -lay a complaint, and then woe betide the poor driver or conductor who -disregarded the law. - -The ’buses make special stops at certain points of their route and these -seem very long and prove tedious to one who is in a hurry; but if your -time is valuable you would never take a ’bus. They are not allowed to -stop when near or nearing these special stopping-places, not even if a -passenger expresses a desire to alight. I remember once, simply for -information, asking the driver to stop in the middle of Trafalgar -square, just as we were passing Nelson’s monument, on the way to the -Strand, cityward. “Well,” said the polite but uneducated Jehu, “you -carn’t expect me to get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare, can -you?” meaning that if he pulled up where I indicated he would be -summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigilant “bobby” and be -obliged to pay four shillings for accommodating me. - -In American street cars or omnibuses--excepting, as I remember in San -José, California, a passenger who rides only a few blocks helps to pay -the fare of the man who rides the full length of the road, for the -charge to both is the same. It is not so (mis) managed in England. The -charge there is by distance, about one penny (two cents) a mile and you -pay according to the distance you ride. There are two or three lines of -omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny (one cent). One line runs -between Westminster bridge and Trafalgar square. They pick up no -passengers between the two points. They each carry only twelve -passengers; there are no outside seats. - -There is a great deal of pilfering going on among omnibus conductors, -and drivers also, for they divide the spoils; and the company winks at -it, knowing that the pay of these men is too small. The company is -satisfied if it receives a fair average return, but in this way it puts -a premium on dishonesty. There is no check against the conductors--no -mechanical contrivance to record fares. They are supposed to enter every -fare and the exact amount they receive from each passenger on a paper -slip placed in a frame, the frame being fastened to the inside of the -omnibus door, but it is only a supposition. Passengers are requested to -see that the amount paid is properly entered, but the request is wholly -unheeded. It is, to say the least, a very careless way of keeping -accounts, and invites dishonesty. On some lines they use tickets showing -the amount each passenger pays, but a conductor sometimes _forgets_ to -hand you a ticket. An Inspector will occasionally mount a ’bus to see -that all the passengers are supplied with tickets, and then the -conductor with a treacherous memory has reason to be sorry. Keep out of -a “pirate ’bus.” The rate in these ’buses is not uniform, and -overcharges are not uncommon. - - -ON THE TOP OF A ’BUS. - -The driver is generally a jolly, red-faced fellow and very smartly -dressed, especially on Sunday. He then always wears a “top hat:” in -winter it is of black silk, in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide -mourning band to set it off. His coat is often a double-breasted drab -cassimere, and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a large and -loud nose-gay. A showy scarf and a pair of heavy, tan-colored driving -gloves complete his costume. He makes quite a picture as he sits on the -box, with a leather strap across his waist which holds him securely in -his seat, and a black leather apron to protect the lower part of his -body from wind and rain. He carries a showy whip with a very long and -loose thong, with the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of -his leader. - -The ’bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty. He comforts himself -with a briarwood pipe unless a generous passenger treats him to a cigar, -for he is not above accepting a small present. - -Leopold Rothschild, who lives on a street through which omnibuses pass, -has taken a great fancy to these men and in the autumn he presents a -pair of pheasants to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his -door. - -Everybody who has visited London knows that the best way of seeing the -city is from the top of a ’bus. Get a front seat, next to the driver, -hand him a tip in the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions. -You will find that he is intelligent, well-informed on every-day -subjects, quick-witted and a judge of human nature. - -I had a very interesting ride last summer on the top of a “Kilburn” -’bus. These ’buses start from Victoria station, and run northwest to -Kilburn, through some very beautiful thoroughfares, in which reside many -titled people and some prominent members of London society. - -In Grosvenor place, soon after starting from the station, the driver -will point out, for instance, the residences of the Dukes of -Northumberland, Grafton and Portland; that of the Earl of Scarborough, -at No. 1 Grosvenor place; the Dowager Lady de Rothschild; Sir Edward -Cecil Guinness; that of the late Right Hon. William H. Smith; also the -homes of a number of members of parliament, more or less well-known. - -The ’bus goes a short distance through Piccadilly and passes the -residences of Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, Lord Rothschild, the Duke of -Wellington and the Duke of Hamilton, in Hamilton place. - -Then it turns into one of London’s most aristocratic streets, Park Lane -(alongside Hyde Park), where reside the Duchess of Somerset, the Marquis -of Londonderry, Lord Brassey, Alfred Rothschild, Lord Dudley, the -Countess of Dudley, Lord Grosvenor, cousin to the Duke of Westminster, -and the Duke of Westminster himself. The Duke’s wealth is untold, and he -owns miles of valuable land in this and the adjacent districts. - -A ’bus marked “Hammersmith” will take you westward, through Piccadilly, -past the clubs, the parks, some stylish shops, and fashionable -residences. You will see St. James’s Palace and historic Addison Road, -_en route_, and you can ride across Hammersmith Bridge. You can also go -to Kew Gardens and to the famous “Star and Garter,” at Richmond, by -’bus. - -Here’s another very interesting ride. If you are at Oxford Circus you -will see omnibuses with the horses’ heads turned eastward, and you will -hear the Cockney conductor calling out “Benk, benk, Charing Cross, -benk.” Take a ride with him. The vehicle goes through Regent street, -Trafalgar Square, the Strand, Fleet street, then down Cheapside (which -is anything but cheap), and Cornhill, where there is neither corn nor -hill. At the end of Cornhill you see the most crowded and bustling crush -of vehicles you ever saw in your life. To the right is the Mansion House -(corresponding with our City Hall); a little further on “The Monument,” -with its gold torch at top, looms up; immediately in front is The Royal -Exchange, with its Peabody statue, while to the left stands the demure -Bank of England, as solid from a financial point of view as it is -architecturally. On this route you pass and have in view The National -Gallery, Landseer’s lions, several famous hotels and theatres, the Law -Courts, Temple Bar, the principal newspaper establishments, and St. -Paul’s Church. The same ’bus, if you wish to pursue your journey -eastward, will take you through Leadenhall street and into the very -heart of Whitechapel--even to Blackwall and the docks, if your taste -lies in that direction. - -There is no better way of seeing London than from the top of a ’bus if -you get a seat next to an old and wide-awake driver, and the cost is but -a few pennies. There are one hundred and forty different routes in the -whole city to choose from. - - -THE CITY TRAFFIC. - -One of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street called “the -Strand,” where it is crossed by Wellington street. You drive north, -through Wellington street, past the Lyceum Theatre to get to Holborn, -Covent Garden Market and elsewhere; southward there is great traffic -over Waterloo Bridge, leading to the Surrey side of London, while from -the east and west come continuous streams of omnibuses, cabs, carriages -and heavy wagons and freight trucks. Policemen stand in the middle of -the roadway and regulate this enormous traffic by merely raising a -white-cotton-gloved hand. They are calm and immovable, and seem to pay -not the slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded crush of -vehicles about them. All come to a standstill before the stiff and -fearless “bobby.” When by waving his hand he directs that a certain -stream of vehicles may proceed this way or that, it proceeds, but not -until he gives permission. - -London Bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare in the world. More -vehicles and foot passengers cross it than pass through any other -street, and special provision is made for vehicular traffic. In New -York, for instance, a heavily laden four-horse truck or wagon may block -Broadway for a great distance. If you are behind it in a phaeton or -light carriage, you must wait till the driver in front of you, who may -be sullen and obstinate, leisurely moves out of the way. No matter in -how much haste you are--you may be trying to catch a train or an ocean -steamer--you must wait. Not so in London’s most crowded streets. On -London Bridge, for instance, slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must -keep to the side near the curb and pavement, while carriages, cabs and -light vehicles are allowed the middle of the roadway for quick movement. -That part of the roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface, -and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for the outer wheel -of heavy wagons--this only on London Bridge and in a few other very busy -thoroughfares. It is a capital plan, and gives satisfaction to all -concerned. - - -ADVICE FROM CHARLES DICKENS. - -But in such a vast city, with such enormous traffic, nothing can prevent -great loss of life and accidents innumerable from crossing the streets. -The point mentioned above is only one of the busy parts of one -street--the Strand--from another point, down by the Law Courts and -Temple Bar, it is said that two hundred more or less mangled bodies are -sent to the Charing Cross Hospital every year. - -The present Charles Dickens, in his “Dictionary of London,” thinks it -worth while to suggest that the only way to go from curb to curb is to -make up your mind what course you will take, and then stick to it. -London cabbies will thus divine your intentions. To change your mind -while crossing is to confuse the cabmen, and cause you (so Dickens -suggests) to make your return journey to America in the form of freight. - -As all vehicles in London are driven to the left, keep to the left curb. -I found this suggestion of Oakey Hall’s valuable: “As you leave a curb, -look to the right; as you approach a curb, look to the left.” - - - - -LONDON HOTELS. - - -Until the year 1880 there was only one hotel in London that came up to -the expectations of American travelers, which compared in size and -appointments with American hotels of the first-class. This was the -Langham Hotel in Portland place. When the Langham was built, nearly -thirty years ago, and for several subsequent years, as the writer can -attest, for he was a guest there in 1871, and has been a frequent -visitor there since, the Langham was large enough to accommodate all -American tourists in London. - -This, however, has been greatly changed. Americans at that time merely -passed through London; they took it as a sort of stepping-stone _en -route_ for Paris. In the days of the Second Empire, when Louis Napoleon -wielded the sceptre, and Eugenie set the fashions for the civilized -world, Americans flocked to Paris like so many sheep. Then it was said: -“See Paris and die.” With the downfall of the empire and its -accompanying glories our compatriots found Paris less attractive, and -they discovered what everybody knows--that London is, in many respects, -the most interesting city in the world. A presentation to Her Majesty, -and hob-nobbing with the Prince of Wales, are the things now most -desired, and to be in the very height of fashion, one must hire a London -house for “the season,”--May, June and July. - - -THE LANGHAM HOTEL. - -But this is a digression. The ground, the structure and the furnishing -of the Langham Hotel, which was formally opened by the Prince of Wales -in June, 1865, cost a million and a half dollars, and it was a wonder -and a revelation to the English people. Its noble granite front of two -hundred and twelve feet, its dining hall, forty-seven by one hundred and -twenty feet; its music room, drawing-room, and its public rooms -generally, were on such a grand scale that Londoners opened wide their -eyes in astonishment and admiration. The Langham, by liberal outlay of -money and constant improvement, keeps up with the times, and -notwithstanding that many splendid establishments have been erected -within the last decade, it retains its place in the very front rank. -People who have not seen the interior of the Langham Hotel, London, -since 1890, will notice some changes and marked improvements. Heretofore -the dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark and roundabout -way, near the drawing-room; now it is approached from “the office” -direct, through a wide and handsome “vestibule,” which is flooded with -light and richly furnished, making an appropriate entrance to the -beautiful dining-room. The drawing-room, which, for its size, its -pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one of the most attractive -salons in England, has also been greatly improved. - -Colonel Sanderson, its first manager, an American, died many years ago. -He was brother to Harry Sanderson, famous in his day in New York as a -pianist. But English capitalists and business men are not given to -making changes, and so we find that Mr. Walter Gosden, who was in the -service of the Langham under Mr. Sanderson’s management, has been for -many years and is now the manager of the hotel. You can get a nice room -with beautiful outlook, and a very good breakfast here for less than -two dollars a day. This estimate includes the charge for attendance. -Address, Walter Gosden, Portland place, Regent street, W. - - -THE GRAND. - -During the past twelve years, however, many superb buildings for hotel -purposes have been erected in the English metropolis. Among the largest -and most popular are the three grouped together, as it were, in one -short street, Northumberland avenue, which, only two blocks long, -extends in a southerly direction from Trafalgar square to the banks of -the Thames. These are the Grand, the Métropole and the Victoria, to name -them in the order they were erected. So popular has this cluster of -hotels become, and so many well-to-do Americans do they attract, that -property in the neighborhood has largely increased in value, and the -tradespeople blame the “Yankees” for the increased rents they have to -pay, never speaking of the increased patronage which they enjoy from -these same “Yankees.” - -The features of the Grand Hotel, the longest established of these three, -are well-known, but former patrons will scarcely recognize the -reception-room, which, with its new, solid-looking furniture and rich, -dark decorations, is now one of the most attractive apartments of its -kind to be seen, even in these days of the upholsterer and decorator. -While artistic and costly, it has an air of utility and comfort which -you will not find very often repeated. The drawing-room of the Grand was -to be “done up” during last winter, so the secretary informed me, and -“it will be just as handsome as the reception-room.” Cable, Granotel, -London. - - -HÔTEL MÉTROPOLE. - -To American visitors in London the Métropole is one of the most -attractive of the more recently built hotels. Situated as it is, and -being replete with all the latest conveniences and features, no hotel in -the metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was first evolved in -the United States of the model modern caravansary. To dwell upon the -subject of the general characteristics of the Hôtel Métropole would be -superfluous; they and it are too well known to Americans who have -visited London, but a short description of the celebrated “grand salon” -of the Métropole, as it has lately been refitted and decorated (Sept. -1891), will be read with interest. - -The scheme of adornment is most tasteful, and perfectly and harmoniously -carried out in all details. Two shades of maroon in contrast with white -and gold are the leading features of the _ensemble_, and the general -effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and pleasing. The -wall space between the lofty windows and the immense mirrors is covered -with stamped Utrecht velvet of a soft, natural tint and richness of -design. The pillars are painted in maroon, with gilt capitals, an -arrangement of color which is at once novel and agreeable to the eye. -The patterns on the flutings of the beams which support the roof are -picked out in gold on a white ground. - -The roof panels are covered with dull gold of a peculiarly restful tint, -and the design introduced in various portions of the general decoration -have an unusually æsthetic character. The electric lights, of which -there are a considerable number, are surrounded by cut crystal pendants -and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the illumination. In the center of -the room is a palm, the leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in -circumference. It towers toward the ceiling, and for grace and beauty -is not easily equalled in Florida, nor greatly excelled even in -California. Tree palms are placed at intervals throughout the spacious -room, producing a pleasing effect of verdure, and each of the separate -tables is adorned with flowers; while the rich candelabra, with handsome -shades placed upon each table, afford the subdued light which is -preferable to the cruder glare of the former style of lighting. The -general _coup d’œil_ in the grand salon is singularly graceful and -attractive. - -A large number of public and private banquets take place at the Hôtel -Métropole, this being one of the recognized resorts for ceremonies of -that description. - -At the Métropole the “show” apartments are known as the Eugenie and -Marie Antoinette suites, and they have afforded many a descriptive -writer material for an article. Probably no hotel sleeping chambers -equal these for rich and costly decoration--for the laces, the frescoes -and luxurious furniture. The reader will know that ample means were at -command when told that in the selection of site, in constructing and -furnishing the Métropole, half a million sterling (two and a half -million dollars) were expended. And such a success has the Métropole -proved that the company were encouraged to invest further in hotel -property with the result that they now own and control three hotels of -the first class in London, also five other hotels in different parts of -Europe. Among these are the Métropole at Monte Carlo, the Métropole at -Cannes, and the Métropole at Brighton, the last named being the latest -hotel erected by this company, and one which will compare in many -respects with the most renowned hotels of the world. Rooms at the London -Métropole from five shillings to one pound per day; breakfast from -two-and-six-pence to four shillings; table d’hôte dinner, six -shillings--one dollar and a half. Manager, Wm. T. Hollands. - - -HOTEL VICTORIA. - -The latest constructed of these three hotels is the Hotel Victoria. -Printed words cannot easily convey to the mind an adequate idea of the -magnificence of this structure. The public rooms of the Victoria are -palatial in their proportions and appointments, the grand staircase is a -marvel of beauty, and the sleeping rooms contain all the conveniences -and contrivances found in modern hotels of the highest class. Besides -the comforts characteristic of an English house, and the luxurious -cuisine of a continental hotel, the attention and the discipline which -rule at the Victoria remind one of an American hotel. - -You need have no fear at the Victoria that the cards of friends calling -will not be promptly sent to you: nor is there any delay or trouble at -this house, as there is at certain hotels in the Strand, about the -delivery of telegrams, letters and packages. Each guest is known to the -officials and servants, not by name, but by number--the number of the -room he occupies. Letters are placed in your box up to a certain hour of -the evening, after that hour they are sent to your room. There is a -package-room, also a “package clerk,” who receives all bundles, signs -therefor, and enters the same in a book, so that it may be known -immediately if a package has been received for a guest. - -If a telegram or a card from a caller is received and the key to your -room is not in its box, thus indicating that you are in your room, or at -least in the house, a servant is immediately dispatched to your room, -while a little page in livery is started off through all the halls and -public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room number in this -fashion, “Number 630, please.” If you are anywhere under the roof you -are sure to be found by this excellent method. - -A feature of the Hotel Victoria is a corps of valets. There are seven -floors in the building, each accommodating about sixty or seventy -guests, and to each floor a valet is assigned who performs all the -ordinary duties of such a servant. Shoes are not carried down below to -be mixed and confused with hundreds of others, but are polished by the -valet on your floor. The valet also enters your room during your -absence, removes all the clothes he finds hanging or lying about, -brushes and folds the same and puts them back neatly. It is a -convenience, returning to your hotel late in the evening and in haste to -dress for dinner or the theatre, to find your evening suit nicely folded -and brushed, ready to put on. These and other provisions for the comfort -of guests indicate the general care in management and the close -attention to detail which obtain at the Victoria, and which have given -it its wide reputation. The appointments include a billiard room with -five full-sized tables. Good rooms on fifth floor, a dollar and a half a -day. This includes attendance and lights. Breakfast from two shillings -to three-and-six; table d’hôte luncheon about the same; table d’hôte -dinner, one dollar and a quarter. Manager, Henry Logan. - - -LONG’S HOTEL. - -There is another trio of London hotels that may be grouped together, on -account of their proximity--the Hotel Albemarle (Albemarle street and -Piccadilly), Long’s hotel (Bond street), and the Hotel Bristol -(Burlington Gardens, between Bond and Regent streets). The last two are -but a few yards apart. They are all entirely new buildings, and new also -in name and history, except Long’s, which was erected on the ground -where the first Long’s stood for _two hundred years_. Long’s, though -not of great capacity, has a larger number of richly furnished bedrooms -than the Ponce de Leon, in St. Augustine, Fla. For the beauty of the -exterior and the magnificent surroundings of the Ponce de Leon, as well -as for the Oriental splendor of its public rooms, no words of praise can -be too lavish. But the two hotels, “the Ponce” and Long’s, cannot be -compared; their characteristics are so different. One is like a royal -palace in the country, the other resembles a gentleman’s quiet, city -home. Long’s differs from every other hotel I have seen in this respect, -that all of its bedrooms have rich hangings, and the walls of each are -decorated with works of art. The apartments are not cold and bare, as -are the bedrooms of most hotels; they suggest home-like comforts, and -are furnished in the best taste. The walls of the dining-room at Long’s -are hung with Gobelin tapestry, and on the whole it may be called a -beautifully appointed hotel. H. J. Herbert, manager. - - -THE BRISTOL. - -They have some very attractive hotels in Boston; the Brunswick, for -example, and everybody has heard of the beautiful Spanish hotels in St. -Augustine, and the great Auditorium in Chicago. I have lived at all -these houses, also at the Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, and at -California’s other famous house, the Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, with -its 126 acres for a garden. There are few or none that are more gorgeous -than these, and they always come to one’s memory when discussing the -best hotels, but certainly New York City cannot boast of a hotel -interior that equals in tasteful decorations those of the Bristol in -London. It is a gem in its way. - -A veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of the Bristol. It is -minus the onyx tables and costly paintings you see at the Ponce de Leon -in St. Augustine, and the “gold” chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many -American hotels: everything in this room at the Bristol, from the soft -carpet on the floor to the decoration on the ceiling, is rich, but also -quiet in tone--soothing and harmonious. The Royal Academy, the -Burlington Arcade (a fashionable shopping street) and Piccadilly are all -within a few hundred feet of the Bristol. The Bristol is patronized by -such well-known New Yorkers as the Vanderbilts, the Twomblys and the -owner of the New York _World_. Telegraph or write to the Bristol Hotel, -Burlington Gardens, London, W. - - -THE HOTEL ALBEMARLE. - -Although rebuilt and opened as recently as the beginning of 1890, the -Hotel Albemarle has already gained a position and reputation as one of -the most select and fashionable hotels in London. Its situation, to -begin with, has undoubtedly had much to do with its immediate success. -It conspicuously fronts the north end of the celebrated thoroughfare, -St. James’s street, in the centre of the court quarter of London, and -stands at the corner of Albemarle street and Piccadilly. No better -location for a hotel destined to be at once aristocratic and accessible -to the traveling public could have been selected. Towering high above -the surrounding buildings, the Albemarle, with its double façade, -seventy-five feet on Piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street from -which it takes its name, cannot fail to attract observation. It is built -of terra cotta in the Francis I. style of architecture, and the general -effect is both graceful and imposing. - -The main entrance is in Albemarle street. The interior of the hotel is -furnished and decorated in a variety of styles of the Renaissance -period. The furniture and decoration of the dining-room, ladies’ -drawing-room on the ground floor, the fitting and decoration of the hall -and staircase, are treated in the style of Francis I. The style of Henri -II. has been adopted for the first and second floors; the third floor is -in the style of Louis XV., and the fourth in that of Louis XIV. Special -mention must be made of the “Rubens Room,” furnished and decorated -effectively in the Louis XV. style. This apartment derives its name from -a fine painting which adorns the ceiling, and which is believed to be -from the brush, either of Rubens himself or of one of his pupils. - -The furnishing, fitting and decorating of the Hotel Albemarle were -effected by the well-known London firm of Shoolbred, after designs from -a famous French artist. The building being of such recent erection, it -is scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern improvements has -been neglected in its construction. The most careful attention has been -paid to sanitary arrangements, and the hotel is lighted throughout by -electricity. In the two years which have elapsed since it was opened, it -has quickly become renowned for the excellence of its cuisine and -service. Its wine cellar is one of the choicest in London. - -Royalty, the nobility, and visitors of the highest fashion patronize the -Hotel Albemarle. During the London season, in particular, its rooms are -crowded with distinguished guests. To Americans, especially, it should -prove a most attractive resort, if only on account of the brilliant and -aristocratic neighborhood in which it is situated. St. James’s Park, St. -James’s Palace and Marlborough House are near at hand. Hyde Park, with -its “Drive” and “Row,” is within five minutes’ walk. The Art Galleries, -the theatres, the Opera House, the Houses of Parliament, the clubs, -Westminster Abbey, and several of the principal museums are within the -compass of a shilling cab fare. The best and most fashionable shops in -London are situated in the near vicinity, in Piccadilly and in Bond and -Regent streets, while Oxford street, where many of the cheaper shops are -to be found, is but a short distance off--in short, it may be said that -the Hotel Albemarle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life -and business of London. - -Interest attaches to Albemarle street itself as an historical -thoroughfare. During the last century it enjoyed peculiar reputation as -a place of residence at the west end of the metropolis, and not a little -of this old-time prestige clings to it still. The Prince of Wales, -afterwards George the Second, once lived in Albemarle street, and when -Louis the Eighteenth of France was in England in 1814 he made it his -place of stay, and held, at the now defunct “Grillon’s Hotel,” his -receptions of the leaders of the English nobility. The famous publishing -house, Murray’s, through whose doors have passed such celebrities in the -world of letters as Byron, Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Hallam, Tom Moore, -Gifford, Lockhart, Washington Irving and many others, is situated -immediately opposite the entrance to the Hotel. You would never imagine -that it was a publishing house or business house of any kind. It looks -like an ordinary private dwelling, and the only sign on the building is -one small, dull brass plate on the front wall upon which is engraved -“Mr. Murray.” - -The proprietor of the Hotel Albemarle is Mr. A. L. Vogel. He is to be -congratulated on the rapid success he has met with in his efforts to -establish one of the best of London hotels. Mr. Vogel has purchased the -freehold of property adjoining the Albemarle Hotel, and a large addition -to the hotel will be erected presently, thus affording room for a new -_salle a manger_ and some thirty more bedrooms. - -Mr. Vogel issues as a “Guide to London” a comprehensive and, in its way, -a complete little book of fifty pages, illustrated and prettily bound in -cloth. It is sent free to any address in the world on application. -Address The Albemarle, Albemarle street, Piccadilly, London. - - -THE BURLINGTON HOTEL. - -The Burlington is in Cork street, a select, and fashionable business -thoroughfare between Bond street and Regent street. In this immediate -locality are also to be found Long’s Hotel, the Bristol, Almond’s Hotel, -patronized by Chauncey Depew and his family, and Brown’s Hotel in Dover -street. The last-named house affects not to desire American patronage. -The Burlington has enjoyed for over a century a truly unique reputation -and position in London. The hotel, as seen from the Burlington street -side, has a dignified exterior. It was erected in the year 1723, after -designs by Kent, by Richard, third earl of Burlington, but the Cork -street side was added to the old hotel in 1828. - -It contains about one hundred and fifty rooms, and among these are as -fine apartments as may be met with in any hotel in the world. The hotel -entrance and the staircase are strikingly attractive, and the galleries, -opening from the staircase to the first floor, have a most charming -effect. Pretty alcoves occupy the ends of the gallery, and on the side -opposite to the colonnade, which looks on to the staircase, is a richly -ornamented doorway leading to the drawing-rooms. The latter possess -curiously decorated ceilings, painted in oil, with vases, birds, -foliage, etc., the work of an Italian artist of the eighteenth century. - -The bedrooms are also interesting, as they retain their original carved -wood mantelpieces and doorways. There are several noble old rooms on -the ground floor with tastefully designed mantelpieces, panelling, -cornices, doorways and richly painted ceilings, which might have served -for the background of one of Hogarth’s pictures. - -In the halls are fine, delicately carved benches by Grinling Gibbons. In -their time the old frescoes have been admired by many famous celebrities -who have sojourned at the Burlington. “Kitty,” the celebrated Countess -of Queensberry, friend of Gay, dispensed her well-known hospitality at -this hostelry, and Florence Nightingale occupied a suite of apartments -there for some months after the Crimean war. Here, too, Macaulay wrote a -portion of his famous history. - -Coming to more recent times, there is scarcely a well-known face in -London that does not know this aristocratic hotel. Lord Beaconsfield, -when he was plain “Mr. Disraeli,” was president of a committee which met -there weekly for the purpose of erecting a statue to the memory of the -late Earl of Derby. The ex-premier, Mr. Gladstone, and his family have -patronized the Burlington for the past fifty years. The Marquis of -Salisbury may be occasionally passed in the corridors on his way to the -royal apartments of King Leopold, and the Prince of Wales arrives -unattended to visit august relatives, who patronize the Burlington. -Henry Irving gives his delightful dinner parties there, and the Royal -College of Physicians have dined there monthly since 1830. Among -distinguished Americans whose names are on the books, may be found -George Peabody, the philanthropist, who resided there for eight months, -also Jefferson Davis, John Jacob Astor, Mr. Bancroft, General Schenck -and General Sandford. Henry M. Stanley also is on the cosmopolitan list -of celebrated guests of the Burlington. - -The Burlington, as well as the Buckingham Palace Hotel, opposite -Buckingham Palace, has for many years been managed by Mr. George Cooke, -who is one of the proprietors, and under whose administration both -hotels have acquired a reputation second to none in Europe. Electric -light, new sanitation and every other modern improvement have been -introduced, and both the British public, as well as American visitors to -London, have been quick to appreciate Mr. Cooke’s effort to make his -hotels real London homes for people of taste and refinement. - - -THE SAVOY. - -A London hotel that has, so to speak, jumped into popularity is the -Savoy Hotel. It is a new house, on the Victoria embankment, with the -Strand at its back, the public gardens in front and the Thames at its -feet. It lies between Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge, and for a -“finger post” it has Cleopatra’s needle. There is an entrance for foot -passengers from the Strand and a carriage drive from the embankment -directly into the courtyard, like that of the Palace Hotel in San -Francisco, the Grand Hotel in Paris, and the Grand in Brussels. In fact, -the Savoy is more like a continental than an English house, and the -owners call it “the Hotel de Luxe of the world.” Luxurious in site, size -and appointments, the Savoy certainly is. It is not continental, -however, in its system of charges. Nor for that matter is it like any -other London hotel, its system being American. In all Parisian hotels -candles are a separate charge: in nearly all European hotels attendance -is a separate item, and in most hotels in the civilized world you must -pay extra for baths. Not so at the Savoy. When you are told the rate for -an apartment everything is included--everything of course but -meals--bedroom, lights, attendance and baths. There are sixty-seven -bath rooms in the house, and beneath it there is an artesian well four -hundred and twenty feet deep. The boiling water, as well as the cold, -like Jacobs’s bottle, is inexhaustible, and you can bathe to your -heart’s content. You can hire a room for two persons for two dollars a -day, or you may engage a suite at twenty dollars a day. - -As to table, you may live economically at the Savoy, or you may live -like a prince--a rich prince. Here are the definite and fixed rates at -the Savoy:--bedrooms for one person, from seven and sixpence (nearly two -dollars) per day; for two persons, ten-and-six; suites of apartments -containing sitting-room, bed-room, dressing-room and private bath-room, -from thirty shillings per day. Breakfast from two shillings to -three-and-six; luncheon, four shillings; dinner, seven-and-six; dinner -served in private rooms ten-and-six. Guests’ servants are boarded at six -shillings per day; price of room according to location. If you want to -live in style and enjoy, at its best, life in London, engage a suite at -the Savoy, including parlor and bath-room, with private lobby and -private balcony overlooking the Thames. It makes no difference what -floor you select: there are “lifts” in the house, so large and luxurious -as to be justly called “ascending rooms:” they run day and night. The -rooms on the top floor are equal in height of ceiling to those on the -lower floors, and the furniture is of the same quality throughout the -house. General manager, C. Ritz; acting manager, L. Echenard. - - -HOTEL WINDSOR. - -The Hotel Windsor is in Victoria street, only five minutes’ walk from -Victoria Station, two minutes’ walk from the American Legation, a few -steps from Westminster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, the Houses of -Parliament, St. James’s Park and the Home Office. The dining-room of the -Windsor is an especially cheerful apartment and it overlooks the pretty -garden of a church. The great plate glass windows in this dining-room -are larger than the windows in any other hotel, so large that they are -only moved up or down by ropes to which handles are attached. They let -in plenty of daylight, almost as much as streams freely into the -dining-room of the Hotel Pasaje, Havana, which opens on the street, and -which is not encumbered with windows at all. - -The Hotel Windsor is not only kept by a “proprietor” in the accepted -American use of that term, but the furniture, the building and the -ground on which it stands are owned in fee (“freehold,” as English -people call it), by two men, J. R. Cleave and V. D. B. Cooper, the first -named being the actual and active manager of the house, who makes it his -home, the title of the firm being J. R. Cleave & Co. The premises -include fifteen thousand square feet of ground, which, without the -imposing ten-story stone structure upon it, is valued at forty-five -thousand pounds sterling--not far short of a quarter million dollars. - -The Windsor is fortunate in its location. A shilling cab takes you to -any theatre or to the shopping centre, and ’buses pass the door every -minute for Charing Cross, Trafalgar square and the Strand. Time, ten -minutes; fare, two cents, inside or out. - -There is a lift at the Windsor of modern style; the house is lighted by -electricity; there are Turkish and swimming baths on the lower floor; to -avoid disagreeable odors the kitchen is at the top of the house; the -bedrooms are scrupulously clean, the _cuisine_ and wines are of the best -quality, and the charges moderate. You can live at the Windsor, if you -prefer it, on the American plan--rate, about four dollars a day. The -European plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals--a -delicious lunch for sixty cents: choice service. - -If this is the description of a model hotel, worthy in every respect of -the best patronage, “that,” as humorist Gilbert says, “is the idea I -intended to convey.” The Windsor was built about twelve years ago. -Address, J. R. Cleave, manager, Victoria street, Westminster, S. W. - - -BAILEY’S HOTELS. - -Americans going to London for business, intent upon shopping, -theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing, find hotels in the Strand, or -hotels near Trafalgar square, very convenient. Reference is made to the -Grand, the Métropole, the Savoy, and the Victoria, in their alphabetical -order. The Langham, in Portland place, and those select houses near -Burlington Gardens and Piccadilly--Long’s, the Bristol, the Burlington -and the Albermarle, are also central, convenient, and in a fashionable -district. - -If, however, a family is going to London for a protracted stay and the -desire of their hearts is to be in an ultra-fashionable locality, where -the aristocracy reside, and where quiet and selectness reign and -salubrity is assured, then Bailey’s Hotel, on the corner of Gloucester -and Cromwell roads, is recommended and recommends itself. If you are in -haste and do not care for a cab, the “underground” will take you from -“the city” or from Charing Cross to Bailey’s Hotel in fifteen minutes, -fare five cents, third class; fifteen cents in a first-class carriage. - -When you reach Gloucester Road Station you are at Bailey’s Hotel, and -within a few minutes walk of Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, Cromwell -Gardens, Stanhope Gardens, Queen’s Gate Gardens, etc., etc. Near at -hand are the Albert Memorial, Albert Hall, and South Kensington Museum. -Not only is Bailey’s Hotel in the heart of this fashionable locality, -surrounded by the residences of members of the nobility and others, but -the hotel itself is under royal patronage, and has entertained the -Prince of Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh, the Duke of Connaught, the -Princess Marie, the Princess Louise, and other members of the royal -household. - -The hotel, which stands on the property of Lord Harrington, who owns all -the land hereabouts, was built in 1875. It is a brick building, six -stories high--a modern hotel with modern improvements, and all possible -safeguards against annoyances and dangers. There are accommodations for -two hundred and fifty guests. In the rear of the house is a beautiful -garden. - -The decorations and furnishings of the apartments are in admirable -taste, and display an individual and artistic sense of fitness. The -style is especially English, but also especially beautiful--there is no -gaudiness, but neither is there dinginess. Unlike American hotels, -little space is given to halls, bar-room, etc., but there is a cosey, -homelike atmosphere, which is enhanced by the rich and substantial -surroundings. Because the bar, with its glitter of glass and brass does -not obtrude itself, let it not be supposed that wine is eschewed. On the -contrary, the wine cellar is a feature of the house, and the stock of -wines is valued at ten thousand pounds. As to the quality of the wines, -and, by the way, that of the cuisine, they are unsurpassed in London. -The sanitary arrangements bear the closest inspection. Some of the very -old and small London hotels are not to be trusted in case of fire. -Bailey’s Hotel is American-like in the particulars of fire-escapes and -preparations for extinguishing a fire. - -There is no attempt to lead people to believe that very low prices -prevail or that Bailey’s is a “cheap house” in any sense of the term. -On the contrary, you pay for the best, and you get it. You can live at -Bailey’s Hotel on the European plan at about the same rate as at an -American hotel of the first-class. Single rooms rent at about one dollar -per day; double rooms from a dollar and a half; suites from four dollars -and a half upward. These are the winter rates. They are a trifle higher -during “the season.” - -As at all English hotels, breakfast varies in price from fifty cents to -seventy-five cents; luncheon from sixty cents; table d’hôte dinner, one -dollar and twenty-five cents. Of course it is English, and there are -some extras. It is a rule at every English hotel, except the Savoy in -London, to make a separate charge for “attendance,” about thirty-five -cents per day for each person, and Bailey’s conforms to the rule. No -American likes it and it seems odd, but it is the custom in England, and -when in Rome---. Four dollars per week is the charge for each member of -the canine race. - -So much for Bailey’s Hotel proper, but the same proprietor, Mr. James -Bailey, is also proprietor of the South Kensington Hotel, and, strange -to say, the two hotels are distant from each other only five minutes’ -walk, the South Kensington being in Queen’s Gate Terrace. - -Being in the same locality, and having the same proprietor, the above -remarks and particulars will apply, almost word for word, to both -houses. Americans who prefer a quiet, aristocratic quarter, and -especially those who have children, will make no mistake in applying for -rooms at either hotel, each with its surrounding parks and gardens being -particularly adapted to families. For the South Kensington, address -Queen’s Gate Terrace, London, S. W. - - -IN JERMYN STREET. - -A couple of small, quiet hotels in Jermyn street--a street which runs -parallel with Piccadilly--may be found pleasant by families or by ladies -without escort. They lack that bustle and noise to which some people -object, and they are not “company hotels,” that is to say the head and -front of each is always visible and approachable. Mr. Rawlings is -proprietor of the Rawlings Hotel, and Mr. Morle with his family keeps -and manages the house which bears his name. - -While Jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are quiet, plenty of -life and gayety are to be had near at hand. Bond street and Regent -street, two of the most fashionable shopping streets of London, are hard -by, and the parks and palaces are within walking distance. Rawlings’ -Hotel is famous for its cuisine, and a feature at Morle’s is that you -can arrange to live on the American plan if you prefer, the charges -being “inclusive,” as they call this plan there, and very moderate -withal. Both these houses are homelike and comfortable, but they are not -strictly fashionable. - -Do not confuse Morle’s in Jermyn street with Morley’s in Trafalgar -square. Morley’s has a magnificent outlook, with the noble Nelson -Monument, Landseer’s lions and the playing fountains in front, and the -dinner served at Morley’s is of the best quality, but the house is very -old and rather worn, notwithstanding its white and attractive exterior. - - -THE NORFOLK’S MODERATE CHARGES. - -If you want to get away from the Strand, Regent street and Piccadilly; -if you are tired of the glare and blare of showy “American hotels,” and -you prefer a very quiet, but healthy locality, jot down in your -memorandum book, “Norfolk Hotel, Harrington Road, South Kensington, -S.W.” The Norfolk was built in the year 1889, not by a company, but by -Mr. A. Fatman, who himself keeps the house. It is not large, there is -room only for eighty guests, but these eighty can be made very -comfortable. - -It is not like a hotel in certain respects. The rooms are not all of one -size nor of one shape. The furniture does not look as if it were turned -out by machinery in Grand Rapids and bought by the car-load. It has -character and distinction, no suites of furniture being alike. There is -nothing at the Norfolk to remind you, for instance, of a Salt Lake -hotel, with its great halls and corridors, and its cold, bare walls. -Good taste, as well as money, was used in building and furnishing the -Norfolk, and the result is an attractive, cosy, home-like house. - -After entering the Norfolk and admiring its pleasant surroundings, the -tariff of charges will surprise you. Rooms are let as low as two-and-six -(about sixty cents) a night, and, wonderful to relate for a London -hotel, there is no charge for attendance. Fish breakfast, one-and-six -(thirty-five cents); afternoon tea, sixpence; the same price for hot or -cold bath. - - -THE FIRST AVENUE. - -Don’t be prejudiced at the sound of “First Avenue Hotel.” It is in -Holborn, a bustling, busy thoroughfare, but which has nothing in common -with our First avenue in New York. The Gordon’s Hotel Company made a -mistake in naming the house; they meant to say Fifth Avenue Hotel, for -the First Avenue Hotel ranks probably with our Fifth Avenue Hotel in -New York, only the First Avenue is not an old house. Holborn is one of -London’s main arteries, a continuation, east, of Oxford street. The -First Avenue is not very far from St. Paul’s and Newgate. The former -being a noble cathedral, you will wish to get into; the latter being a -prison, you will wish to keep out of, unless for a temporary visit. - - -OTHER HOTELS. - -Another hotel in Holborn which may be commended is the Holborn Viaduct -Hotel, near the city station of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. - -A pleasant house in High Holborn is the Inns of Court; neither -fashionable nor grand, but select and comfortable; largely patronized by -English people. Terms moderate. The main entrance is in Lincoln’s Inn -Fields. - -There are some famous old houses farther east, in the city, in such a -bustling, busy quarter as St. Martin’s le Grand, near the General Post -Office. The Queen’s Hotel in this neighborhood is best known. - -Not far from this locality is the Manchester Hotel, in Aldersgate -street. The proprietor of the Manchester Hotel especially solicits -American patronage. - -Those who desire to make frequent visits to the Houses of Parliament and -that grand old pile, Westminster Abbey, will find the Westminster Palace -Hotel convenient. It has an imposing front, in Victoria street, -Westminster, almost opposite to the Abbey. Within five minutes’ walk of -this hotel are the Home Office, St. James’s Park, the Horse Guards, -Westminster Bridge, leading to the Surrey side of London, the United -States Legation, and the Victoria Station of the London, Chatham and -Dover Railway. The favorite and well kept Hotel Windsor, referred to -elsewhere, is also in Victoria street, and still nearer to the Station -and the Legation before mentioned. - -Convenient to Hyde Park are the Alexandra Hotel, 16 to 21 St. George’s -Place, Hyde Park Corner, and the Hyde Park Hotel. The latter is at the -west end of Oxford street, in Hyde Park Place, near the Marble Arch. - -Claridge’s Hotel used to be considered “the crack” house of London, and -it is still patronized by the nobility, members of the diplomatic corps -and by royalty. Nos. 49 to 55 Brook street, Grosvenor Square. - -The Hotels connected with the railway stations are large structures, -solidly built, fire-proof, as a general rule, and fitted up with every -modern contrivance. They are desirable stopping places if you arrive -late at night or if you intend to make an early start by rail, from the -station, in the morning. They were erected for that purpose and they -serve it admirably. - -There are very many reputable hotels in London which are worthy of the -best patronage, detailed reference to which, in this limited space, it -would not be possible to make. - -If none of the hotels described or alluded to in the foregoing list -suits your plans and purposes, consult friends who have had experience -in such matters. But don’t go, hap-hazard, into the smallest and oldest -London hotels of whose very existence you never heard. Some of them are -unpleasant, as residences; others are unhealthy. If your stay in London -is short there is every reason why you should put up at the best houses. -If you make a protracted visit and desire to economize, go to a boarding -house or take lodgings. You will see signs in windows all over London: -hire rooms and eat where your fancy or purse directs. London -housekeepers are glad to “eke out” by letting rooms in the summer, and -with a small tip now and then to the maid, life can be made very -comfortable in London lodgings. - - -A FEW BOARDING HOUSES. - -There are plenty of first-class boarding houses where Americans are -welcome. Five or six come to mind--Mrs. Pool’s, No. 20 Bedford place; -Mrs. Goodman’s, No. 13 Montague place; Mrs. Philp’s, No. 6 Montague -place; Mrs. Wright’s, No. 15 Upper Woburn place, and Mr. Cooper’s, No. 1 -Bedford place, Russell square. Mrs. Philp is an American whose husband -keeps the Cockburn Hotel in Glasgow; and there is a Philp’s Cockburn -Hotel in Edinburgh. Mrs. Philp’s drawing-room is beautiful, the -dining-room cheerful, and there is a pretty garden which is backed by -the walls of the British Museum, so Mrs. Philp is easily found. - -Those who want to live economically but comfortably are recommended to -the handsome private hotel or _pension_ of Mrs. Marcus Pool, 20 Bedford -place, Russell square. This is a pleasant and convenient quarter of the -city--quite handy for the British Museum, not far from Charing Cross, -and a shilling cab fare to railway stations and places of amusement. The -house is furnished and appointed on a liberal scale; the drawing-room is -large and cheerful; the bedrooms are luxuriously fitted up in the best -taste, and they have a pleasant outlook. There is a Broadwood piano, -also a new billiard room, with a table from the famous firm of Bennett. -The house has a refined, home-like air, well representing the character -of Mrs. Pool and her charming daughter. French and German are spoken. -The terms at the Pool pension are from two dollars a day, which include -breakfast, table d’hôte dinner and attendance--“everything inclusive.” -Those are the terms “in the season;” the winter rates are lower. The -cuisine is of the substantial English quality, but not heavy. At Pool’s -pension you are sure to meet cultivated and select people. Those who -have been Mrs. Pool’s guests appear perfectly satisfied; for they -return again and again. Mr. Cooper keeps a good house and he caters to -people accustomed to refined surroundings. He is a typical Londoner of -the middle class--honest, blunt and out-spoken. Mrs. Lucy H. Hooper, -wife of the American Vice-Consul in Paris, recommends No. 1 Bedford -place. Mrs. Hooper makes it her stopping place when she is in London. - -“American Family Home.”--An establishment which meets with especial -favor among fastidious tourists is Demeter House, 13 Montague place, -Russell square, W. C. The location is select, within easy access of the -centres of shopping and amusement. The house is kept by Mrs. A. Goodman, -who aims to maintain a house replete with the comforts and freedom of a -refined home and the advantages of a hotel, but with less expense. The -house is spacious and well furnished, the table excellent and carefully -provided. Many leading American families make this their home during -their annual visits to London. - -Put down “No. 15 Upper Woburn place, Tavistock square,” and note that it -is not far from Euston station. It is a quiet street. The house is kept -by an English woman of refinement, Mrs. Wright and her maiden daughters, -and it may be commended as a pleasant Christian home, where grace is -said before meals. - -Of these boarding houses, like all the hotels mentioned in this article, -the writer speaks from his own knowledge and experience. But don’t count -on getting accommodation in London hotels in the season, without making -previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of your arrival, or -you may be disappointed. - - - - -WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON, - -AND WHERE NOT TO LUNCH. - - -It may be set down at the outset that there are no restaurants in London -equal to Delmonico’s in Fifth avenue, or the Café Savarin in the -Equitable Building, New York, and no London restaurant serves a table -d’hôte dinner at any price equal in quality and style of service to that -furnished at the select and elegant “Cambridge,” Fifth avenue and 33d -street, New York. - -Neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will compare with -Mouquin’s, in Ann street, where everything is cooked to a turn, and -where even a fastidious _gourmet_ need not find fault. There are two or -three Italian places in Regent street where they serve a -“Chateaubriand,” enough for two persons, for one dollar, but nowhere do -you get a dish of maccaroni that is more palatable than at Mouquin’s, -and neither in London nor Paris do you get as good Burgundy for the -price as Mouquin’s beaujolais--half bottle, forty cents. - -The foreign halls are more richly gilded, and the furniture is of finer -texture, but if you are looking for as good food and as well served at -that at Mouquin’s, at Mouquin’s prices, you will look in vain. - -In the price of wines, however, no first-class hotel or restaurant -anywhere that I know of sells wines as low as the manager of the Hotel -del Monte, Monterey, Cal. In France, on the Swiss border, I found _vin -ordinaire_ almost as cheap as water, in the small inns. The Hotel del -Monte, please bear in mind, is a superbly appointed and grand -establishment, and they serve you a half bottle of good California -Zinfandel for fifteen cents. But then this hotel company own their own -vineyards, and make no profit on wine served at table. It is a sort of -“sample” or advertisement for their wines. - -“The Aerated Bread Shops,” which are as “thick as flies” in London, are -probably good enough places to drop into if you are in a great hurry, -for a cup of coffee or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry, digestible seed -cake. If you abhor marble tables, if you must have a _serviette_ and you -would avoid a crowd and mixed company, keep out of the “aerated bread -shops,” and by the same token and by all means keep out of the Lockhart -lunch shops. The “aerated bread shops” are tolerable; the others are -not. - -Much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread shops or Lockhart’s -lunch shops is the confectionery and cake counter of William Buszard, -197 and 199 Oxford street, where everything is clean and inviting. A -similar place of the first-class is that in “the city” of Alfred -Purssell & Co., No. 80 Cornhill, E. C. The proprietor of this -establishment is related to the late William Purssell, founder of the -famous restaurant in Broadway which still bears his name. There are -several pleasant places in and near Piccadilly where you may obtain a -cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich, just enough to “stay the -appetite.” One of the best of these is Callard’s, 146 New Bond street, -but even in this neat and clean little shop they don’t know what a -_serviette_ is. - -Romano’s, called “The Vaudeville,” 399 Strand, is recommended for its -moderate charges, but this is a place I have never tried. So much for -the confectioners and the cheap restaurants. - -The Tivoli restaurant, up stairs, connected with the Tivoli Music Hall, -is in the Strand, just East of Charing Cross. “La Haute Cuisine -Française,” as they term it, is in charge of a famous _chef_, M. Gerard. -A Table d’Hôte Luncheon, at 2s. 6d., from 12 to 3; Parisian dinner, at -5s., from 6 to 9, served in the Flemish Room. - -Londoners are proud of their Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, where -the glass and the brass and the marble columns are resplendent and -imposing, and where you are regaled with vocal music (English glees) -during the dinner hour, but the meals are not daintily served: the -butter is not cold, and the plates are not warm, and unless you order a -costly meal at the Holborn Restaurant, the waiter may wait on you with -condescension. Dinner, three-and-six. - -If you are in “the city,” in the neighborhood of the Bank (the Bank of -England), and you have a desire to see how and where some of the brokers -and commission merchants lunch, step into the Winchester House in -Bishopgate street--a well-lighted, well-furnished restaurant, where no -charge is made to customers, strange to say, for use of water and soap. - -Ladies who are in the neighborhood of Westminster Abbey or who have -business at the American Legation, are recommended to the Army and Navy -stores, in Victoria street, opposite the Windsor Hotel, where a dainty -lunch is served at a very moderate sum. You can do your shopping in the -same large establishment. They sell everything, from a poached egg to an -Axminster carpet or a wedding outfit. The Army and Navy stores is on the -coöperative plan. To gain entrance you must either use a member’s ticket -number or use good judgment. - -Gatti is a well-known name in the Strand, where the Gattis have two -large, gaudily furnished restaurants, one of which extends to King -William street. The Gattis are also owners of the Adelphi Theatre, where -you may always enjoy a drama--if you enjoy melodrama. The Gattis are -Swiss, and one of the brothers is a legislator in one of the Swiss -Cantons. They commenced in a small way, in the east end of London, many -years ago and made a reputation for their ices. They long since moved to -the west end, where they increased their business and they now conduct a -thriving trade. All Gatti’s waiters are foreigners. They are a talkative -set and some people might prefer that their linen be nearer the color of -snow. - - -IN REGENT STREET. - -If you are in the neighborhood of Piccadilly Circus, a fair place to get -luncheon at a fair price is “the Florence” in Rupert street, Regent -street. It is an Italian restaurant; the lunch is served table d’hôte -and the price is one shilling and sixpence. But there is no profit to -the restaurateur in the mere lunch: you are expected to order -wine--indeed that is the expectation in all English restaurants and -hotels--all hotels that are not temperance houses. At the Florence you -can get dinner from six to nine, for half-a-crown--sixty-two cents--and -you order wine of course. - -If you are fond of high living, and you don’t mind paying for it, take a -meal in the middle of the day or _early_ in the evening at the Hotel -Continental. It is in the lower part of Regent street, on the corner of -Waterloo place, within the shadow of the Duke of York column. It was one -of the first houses in London to adopt the French style in name--Hotel -Continental in lieu of Continental Hotel--and it was one of the first to -serve a first class dinner in the French style. The reputation for its -_cuisine_ is second to none, and the hotel prides itself upon the -accuracy of the names and vintages of the wines supplied. It has the -monopoly in London of that famous brand of champagne, “_Medaille d’Or_” -which received the grand prize in the French Exhibition of 1878 over -sixty other competing wines. Cigarettes made of the finest tobacco are -manufactured expressly for the hotel in Constantinople and Salonica. - -There is always a very gay scene in the Hotel Continental supper room -after the theatres close; it might become too lively in the early hours -of the morning, but the police regulations oblige such places as the -Continental to close their doors at one A.M. Dinner from seven-and-six -to twelve-and-six, without wine, of course; for although you are in the -Continental you are not on the Continent. A. Y. Wilson, who has been -connected with the house since its opening, is the manager. - -More attention is given to “the inner man” in London than in any other -place I wot of. They seem to live to eat there, not eat to live, and yet -some one has noted this difference--you eat dinner in London, while in -Paris you dine. Mention the subject of restaurants in London and the -majority will ask you, “Have you dined at Verrey’s in Regent street?” -Yes, I’ve been to Verrey’s and I found it very gloomy, and very -expensive not to say oppressive. You are in the middle of the house and -the room is lighted from a skylight. It is not at all cheerful. - -Blanchard’s, “The Burlington,” 169 Regent street, is patronized by the -higher classes. Dinner from five shillings to twelve-and-six. No higher -priced dinner in London. - -For a healthful, nicely-served meal, whether it consist of a mutton chop -and a boiled potato or a dinner of several courses, much better than the -aforesaid establishments in Regent street is the Café Royal, at No. 68 -Regent street. In the “Grand Café Restaurant Royal,” where dinner is -served, prices rule high. For luncheon go into the “Grill Room” of the -Café Royal. You will find the rates reasonable, the food of the best, -the appointments on a grand scale, and the service satisfactory. These -remarks will also apply to “The Monico,” at Piccadilly Circus and -Shaftesbury avenue. - -The St. James Restaurant, which extends from Piccadilly to Regent -street, with entrances on both streets, is a large, showy place, with -plenty of glitter about it, and wearing the big-sounding title of St. -James Hall. The rates are not low, the food is not of the choicest -quality, the service is not of the best, and the waiters may over-charge -you unless you watch them closely. The charge for washing your hands at -the St. James, be you a patron or not, is two-pence. This is a regular -charge made by the proprietors, but if you don’t also fee the man who -hands you a towel or fills your basin, you might get a cold reception -down-stairs the next time you call, and you may fill your own basin. - -At the Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus, you can take your choice; go up -stairs, and the charges are higher; down in the basement the same dishes -are served at a lower price. To quote their bill, “table d’hôte -three-and-six, _le diner Parisien_, five shillings.” - -English people when they are thirsty drink beer, wine, or something -stronger; Americans who live in cities, American women at least, prefer -something weaker, soda water, for instance, which, charged with gas, -looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a highly polished, -silver-plated fountain. Not until recently could American taste in this -matter be gratified in London. Now there are two “American -confectioneries” kept by Fuller, one, the principle establishment, at -206 Regent street; the other, at 358 Strand, both central locations. The -first is close to Oxford Circus and not far from the Langham Hotel. At -Fuller’s you can get ice-cream soda and “caramels fresh ever hour.” In -fact, on a pleasant summer day Fuller’s, in Regent street, will remind -you of Huyler’s on Broadway, and if you are a New Yorker, you will meet -many familiar faces there. If you retain a juvenile _penchant_ for -peanuts, that taste can also be gratified at Fuller’s. - - -THE GRILL ROOM OF THE GRAND. - -So many of the transient guests at hotels in London are out shopping and -sight-seeing, that they generally take only breakfast, or, at most, -breakfast and dinner, at their hotels, always lunching wherever -convenience may permit. The meals at European hotels being usually a -separate charge, the hotel is a sufferer by this custom, so that at -some, if not most houses, it is understood that, if you take your meals -out, a higher charge will be made for your apartment. The manager of the -Grand Hotel, however, has opened a restaurant of his own, in his own -house, which is so attractive that it not only keeps together his -regular guests, but allures “the outside world,” and thus the “Grill -Room,” as it is called, of the Grand has become famous in London. - -While within and a part of the Grand Hotel, it is not reached by the -main entrance in Northumberland avenue. It is at the eastern end of the -building, around the corner, in the Strand, and is in what we would call -in New York a basement, but no ordinary “basement” is this, and the -staircase leading to it is anything but ordinary. The Grill Room of the -Grand is a well-lighted, cheerful apartment, richly carpeted and finely -furnished. The chairs are comfortably upholstered, the walls are -gorgeous with polished tiles, the table furniture is dainty, the food is -of prime quality, and the tariff of charges moderate. - -Don’t be surprised at the charge, two-pence, for washing your hands in -the Grill Room lavatory, and unless you occupy a room, the charge for -use of lavatory in the hotel proper is three-pence; but it is worth half -a crown merely to see the lavatory, or rather the staircase and landing -leading to it, so beautiful are the colored marble fountain, the eastern -rugs, the fernery and the Oriental lamps, with which this lower part of -the house is decorated. The view of this lower part from the marble -staircase on the main floor has been called fairy-like; it is certainly -very pleasing. - -Strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the hotels in Europe as -they are in “the States.” They can’t use the smoking-room, read the -newspapers, loiter about the halls, make a general rendezvous of the -house and help themselves to stationery in European hotels as they do on -this side. Their hotels lack some of our popular features and the -excellent service and discipline of the American hotels, but, on the -other hand, they are not so noisy, and are more private. American hotels -suit Americans, and the hotels in England satisfy the wants and desires -of English people. - - -SIMPSON’S DIVAN. - -A Characteristic English Restaurant.--A good, plain, thoroughly -wholesome English dinner is served in an appetizing way by English -waiters at Simpson’s, in the Strand, next door to Terry’s Theatre, -opposite Exeter Hall. You get a bowl of good soup, a course of fish, a -cut from the joint, a salad, two kinds of vegetables, with bread and -butter, a biscuit and a bit of rich Gorgonzola or dry Wiltshire cheese -to wind up with, and your whole bill will be four shillings, to which -add threepence for “attendance,” which is charged in the bill, and about -threepence more which you will hand to the waiter. A feature of the -place is that the hot joint, over a chafing dish and on a small table, -is wheeled round to you, and it is there cut before your eyes and -transferred to your plate. You can get a lower-priced dinner in London, -and higher-priced dinners where you please, but none of a better quality -and none that is more satisfactory unless you demand fancy fol de rols, -indigestible entrées and French dishes made of little or nothing. - -Simpson’s is justly celebrated for its “fish” dinners. Both these and -the meal above described are served in the middle of the day and in the -evening also. On Sunday the evening dinner only is served; the place is -closed until 6 P.M. - -Simpson’s enjoys the patronage of Henry Irving and of other people -famous in the theatrical world, just as it did in the last century. -Henry Irving’s Lyceum Theatre, by the way, is in the Strand, near -Simpson’s, but on the opposite side of the street. In the summer of 1890 -I saw D’Oyly Carte enjoying his dinner at Simpson’s. This is a special -compliment to the place, because that magnificent hotel, the Savoy, in -which this theatrical manager is interested, is just around the corner -from Simpson’s, on the Thames Embankment. During the summer of ’91 I met -at Simpson’s another theatrical manager, our own Augustin Daly, with his -wife. Mr. and Mrs. Daly occasionally left the Hotel Métropole, where -they had apartments, to partake of one of Simpson’s substantial, -well-cooked and appetizing meals. There’s no Simpson now, the founder -died long ago, but “Simpson’s” is there yet, as it was a hundred years -ago, although it is now a limited company. Howard Paul eulogizes this -place, and Stephen Fiske recommends it. Besides being a brilliant writer -on dramatic matters, Mr. Fiske has made a study of the gastronomic art, -and he lived in London continuously during nine years. The reading -public put faith in Stephen Fiske’s dramatic criticism; his intimates -also trust to his good taste and judgment in ordering a dinner. - -It is a well-known fact that changes in the employees at this -establishment are seldom made. Some of the waiters have stood at the -tables for nearly two decades, and the head waiter has been there -(probably not always as head waiter) for more than thirty years. The -name of this head water is Charles Flowerdew, so he informed me, and I -can impart this piece of information--that this same Flowerdew is a -character worth studying. There is nothing of the “Yellowplush” type -about him, but he is such a character, courteous and civil (yes, -seemingly servile to an American’s eye), such as Dickens delighted to -draw. - -Mr. Flowerdew knows all the old customers at Simpson’s, and, what is of -more consequence to a hungry man, he knows all the choice cuts. He will -suggest the best dishes, the rare bits, and he will serve you from the -joint, _ad libitum_, as he proudly remarks. When next you go to London, -go to Simpson’s, 103 Strand. You will be sure to meet a few London -notabilities, you will be sure of a good dinner, and last, but by no -means least, you will see the polite and dignified Mr. Charles -Flowerdew. Managing director, E. W. Cathie. - -[Illustration] - - - - -RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND. - - -While our facilities in railway travelling have wonderfully improved in -the past ten years, it must not be supposed that in conservative England -they have stood still entirely. But the improvements in carriage -accommodation there have been so steady and gradual that passengers -hardly recognize how much more they get for their money now than they -did a generation back. For instance, the old first-class carriage of -forty years ago was fifteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and -less than five feet high, and this was constructed to seat eighteen -passengers; in other words, each person had about twenty-six cubic feet -of space. In the carriages built to-day to accommodate ten first-class -passengers, each one has ninety cubic feet. - -Nor because we in America have such luxurious Pullman and vestibuled -cars must it be imagined that the English railway carriages have not -comforts and luxuries of their own. Some of them, for example, are built -to seat only two or three persons, thus securing complete privacy to a -party of that number. - -I have never occupied a more comfortable railway carriage than in going, -as I did, last September, from Edinburgh to London over the lines of the -Caledonian and London and Northwestern railways, on the world-famous -train called the “Flying Scotchman”--and a flyer it is. The distance is -four hundred miles, and it is run in eight and one-half hours. You leave -Edinburgh at 10.15 A.M. and reach Euston square before 7 P.M. As there -are several important stations between the two cities at which long -stops are made, the train must make between many of the stations much -more than fifty miles an hour. The speed was so great at times that it -caused unusual vibration, and at times it gave me a slight reminder of -sea-sickness. - -The carriage was built to seat two persons only. In it there were two -large, softly-upholstered, sleep-inviting arm-chairs, one on each side -of the car. Between the two chairs at the back was a door leading to a -lavatory for the sole use of the two passengers. It was supplied with -iced water, washing water, towels, mirror and all the etceteras and -conveniences that are desirable in travelling. The car had in all six -windows--two at each side and two in front. Between the two front -windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror. The floor was richly -carpeted and the carriage was supplied with a number of brass brackets -and hooks for the travellers’ impedimenta. But more than this--across -the front, breast high, was a shelf about six inches wide to hold books -and papers, and below this another shelf about the same width for a -foot-rest. - -The carriage was seven feet square and seven feet high. Here a man and -wife or two friends can make themselves about as comfortable as if they -were at home in their own drawing-room. You exchange your shoes for -slippers, don your smoking jacket and if your companion does not object, -you can enjoy a fragrant Havana. To be sure this is against the rules of -the company and your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty -shillings if you were found out, but the distances are great and the -stops few on this “flying Scotchman,” so there is ample time to enjoy a -smoke undisturbed. No extra fare is demanded for this most luxurious -vehicle; it is simply ranked as a first-class carriage, but you had -better write to the station master and engage such a carriage a day or -two in advance of your intended journey, for not more than one of these -small private cars is by chance attached even to a “flying Scotchman.” -No extra charge is made for this engagement in advance. - -The complaint years ago that passengers were locked in the cars can -seldom now be made. The custom is almost entirely abolished; it caused -so many accidents. The aim of each and every passenger on a British -railway is to secure a seat with his back to the engine. In this way he -avoids draughts of air: draughts from a bottle they never object to. In -fact both men and women drink often and deeply during a journey, but it -does not seem to affect them. - -Time tables are not given away as with us: the charge is a penny, two -cents. You never hear “all aboard” at railway stations, but the much -pleasanter sounding words, “take your seats, please.” - - -LUGGAGE AND BAGGAGE. - -You do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for baggage on a -continental railway, but in England seldom or never. Still a piece of -baggage is seldom lost on an English railway. It gets to its proper -destination at last, but it seems to be more by good luck than by good -management. Baggage, or “luggage,” as they term it, goes astray -sometimes, but on the other hand, the system for tracing and finding it -is excellent. They have a “lost luggage” department in the principal -stations. - -They are very particular as to the quantity of baggage. Each passenger -is allowed so many pounds. At every station there is an official who -keeps a sharp eye on the porters who handle trunks, and at the slightest -suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk on the scales -with which all stations are supplied. - -There are strong racks in every car for light luggage, but a great deal -of what we should term heavy baggage finds its way on the racks and -under the seats. Englishmen travel with an extraordinary quantity of -impedimenta. They carry large satchels, also portmanteaus resembling a -good-sized trunk--all because no checks are given. Everybody wants to -keep his luggage in hand or in sight. - -There is a prominent sign posted in some of the large stations to this -effect: “Any porter who is discovered accepting a fee will be instantly -dismissed.” And yet you can’t get your trunk moved an inch without -dropping a few coppers into a porter’s hand. The fee system prevails -everywhere, from the station master who furnishes information to the -uniformed porter who whistles for a “four-wheeler” or hansom. In many -cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by dropping a penny -in a slot. But this is a better arrangement than exists at stations on -the continent, where an old woman stands guard, whom you must fee before -you are allowed to leave. - - -A ROYAL RAILWAY TRIP. - -When the Queen of England makes a railway journey it is an event of no -ordinary importance. With her it is not, as with the President of the -United States for example, so simple a matter as climbing up the steps -of a Pullman or getting into a Pennsylvania Florida special or Chicago -limited, and proceeding without fuss. No, when Queen Victoria is about -to travel preparations are made long beforehand and all the regular -arrangements of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the -royal train. - -When Her Majesty journeyed by the Caledonian Railway from Carlisle to -Aberdeen, en route to Gosport and Ballater, many days previous there was -issued the table of instructions for working the trains over the line -on that day. They were intended for the use of the company’s employees -only, who were forbidden to make known their contents. A pilot engine -was sent over the road twenty minutes before the royal train, in charge -of the foreman of the locomotive department. This engine maintained -throughout the journey the uniform interval of twenty minutes. No other -train, engine or vehicle, except passenger trains, was permitted to -travel on the other track between the passing of the pilot and the royal -train, and even passenger trains had to slow down to ten miles per hour. - -One of the orders issued was this: “Drivers of such trains as are -standing on sidings or adjoining lines, waiting for the passing of the -royal train, must prevent their engines from emitting smoke or making a -noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is passing.” - -Brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing projected from their trains. -Each foreman plate-layer, or “section-boss,” as we would say, after -examining his length of line, stationed himself at the south end and an -assistant at the north; after the pilot had passed they walked till they -met, seeing that all was right. The stations were kept clear and the -public admitted at one station only, the last. Even here, cheering or -other demonstration was forbidden, “the object being that Her Majesty -should be perfectly undisturbed during the journey.” These instructions, -signed by James Thompson, general manager, and Irvine Kempt, general -superintendent, were obeyed in their minutest detail. - -It must not be supposed that the company has to pocket the loss when the -Queen travels. The royal lady not only does not travel on “passes,” but -she pays all expenses incurred. A copy of the instructions printed in -gold are presented to the Queen and she cannot fail to be gratified by -the care and thought exhibited by the company. - -The entire mileage of the Caledonian Railway is one thousand miles; the -main line from Carlisle to Aberdeen, over which the queen travelled, is -about two hundred and forty miles. It traverses a beautiful country. -From this great trunk run out branches and connections by steamer in all -directions--reaching to all big towns of the country, most of the small -ones, and all the districts famed in Scottish song or history, the -highlands, the lochs, the seaboard, etc. The road is a model road and -one of the best appointed in Great Britain. The tourist, the student and -the sportsman are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of the -tours arranged by the Caledonian company. - - -THE NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY. - -One of the largest English railway systems is that of the London & -Northwestern. The territory covered by this railway extends from London -in the south to Carlisle in the north, and from Cambridge in the east to -Holyhead in the west--an area of three hundred miles in breadth. The -main office of the government is in London, but the capital, so to -speak, is Crewe, a town of thirty-five thousand inhabitants consisting -entirely of the employees of the railway and their families. The total -number in the railway’s service does not fall far short of sixty -thousand. The annual budget amounts to ten million pounds, while the -funded debt has reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling. - -The London and Northwestern shops at Crewe have to keep in repair a -stock of engines that is worth five million pounds sterling, and while -they do not indeed put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes, -they do literally every four hours, and in doing so the engines consume -a million tons of coal per annum. On an average, it is reckoned that -every five days an old engine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one. - -Of late years the company has been experimenting on an extensive scale -with a system of metallic permanent way. Steel “keys” fasten the rails -into steel “chairs,” which in their turn are riveted down to steel -sleepers. About thirty miles of line has been laid on this system, with -about sixty thousand sleepers. So far the results are understood to be -satisfactory. The question involved in the conflict between steel and -wooden sleepers is gigantic. A rough calculation shows that to replace -the wooden sleepers on existing lines in Great Britain only would -require about four million tons of steel, without reckoning the weight -of the chairs and keys. And great Britain has only one-fifteenth of the -railway mileage of the world. - -In some ways the goods traffic arrangements of the road at Liverpool are -even more remarkable than those in London. At Liverpool the Northwestern -has six goods stations, two of them reached by tunnels each a mile and a -quarter in length, constructed for their use alone. One of these -stations, Edgehill, is called a goods “yard,” but this yard contains -fifty-seven and a half miles of land, covers two hundred acres of -ground, and has cost about two million pounds sterling--nearly ten -millions of dollars. - -The conductors on the New York street cars, like the New York policemen, -are sullen and sour; they seem ill-tempered, if not ill-natured. You -seldom or never see a smile on their lips, and as for giving utterance -to the common and easy phrase, “thank you,” when they receive a fare, -they wouldn’t be guilty of such a piece of politeness; not they. - -It is different in England, on the Continent, everywhere in Europe. -Whether on a steam road, a steamboat, a tram or an omnibus, no officer -nor conductor would think of receiving a fare without thanking a -passenger audibly, and even when an officer opens the door or looks into -the window of a carriage for the purpose of examining tickets, you will -not hear the short, sharp, curt demand, “tickets,” as in the States, but -“all tickets, please,” in a pleasant and agreeable tone. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] AN HOUR WITH SPURGEON. - - -LONDON, October 1, 1890. - -The Rev. C. H. Spurgeon still draws crowds to his tabernacle, which is -situated in a part of London called Newington Butts. It is by no means a -fashionable district, being in the Southeast end of the city. You tell -any “cabby” to drive you to Spurgeon’s church and he will put you down -at the door. But it is only a twenty minutes’ ride on a ’bus from -Charing Cross; fare four cents. - -That Mr. Spurgeon attracts great throngs of hearers, every one knows, -but here are a few figures: His tabernacle accommodates between six and -seven thousand people, and on Sunday morning, September 28, when the -writer was present, five thousand four hundred people listened to him. -This was in September, be it remembered, when everybody is out of town -and “London is empty.” - -The regular members and attendants ascend the stone steps and enter the -church through the front door; strangers and visitors get in by a side -entrance, through an alleyway, and as they pass in, a tiny paper -envelope is handed to each person. You drop into the envelope as much or -as little coin as you please (for no human eye is watching you) and this -envelope you in turn drop into an open box on your left, this method -probably taking the place of a collection, which would be so difficult -to manage where five or six thousand people have to be approached. - -People sometimes ask what is the secret of this preacher’s distinguished -success? The foundation of his success is his earnestness and evident -sincerity. - -He impresses his hearers with the belief that he believes what he is -preaching. He does not seem to be making a profession or business of -religion. There is nothing perfunctory in his manner; he rejoices in his -calling. - -Then again Spurgeon is a good and effective speaker. He talks in a slow, -deliberate way, his enunciation being clear and his pronunciation -perfect. Each word is distinct and clean cut. His accent is -cosmopolitan; there is nothing local in it. Except for the pronunciation -of a few words, such for instance, as the word “after,” to which Mr. -Spurgeon gives the broad sound heard in England, you might be puzzled to -know whether the great divine was born “within the sound of Bow Bells” -or graduated from Columbia College. - -His language hypercritical people might not call choice, but I beg to -differ with them; it is exceedingly choice, being directly to the point, -and like the man himself, simple and strong. There is no searching for -fine phrases and well-rounded periods. His ideas flow freely and they -quickly find expression: there is no effect aimed at. The man trusts to -the matter of his discourse, never troubling himself about his manner. - -His gesticulations are few, natural and not at all dramatic. He will -raise his right hand or occasionally take a step towards a small table -hard by: nothing more. His voice is not musical, nor is it especially -pleasing to a stranger’s ear; but it is firm, clear and penetrating, -possessing those qualities most demanded in a public speaker. - -On the morning of which I write Mr. Spurgeon took his text from Psalm -63, 7th verse, and held his hearers spell-bound for about forty minutes -by his brilliant illustrations, his convincing arguments and his -earnestness, for above and beyond all he is deeply in earnest. His -prayer is beautiful; he touches a responsive chord in every heart in his -fervent appeals to God for mercy and help. - -Before the sermon there was singing of psalms and hymns. Mr. Spurgeon -gave out hymn No. 916, “Going to Worship.” It was congregational -singing, without instrumental music, one man near the pulpit acting as a -sort of leader. The singing was too slow for the preacher. After the -second verse he called aloud to the congregation to sing faster, himself -beating time with his right hand. Psalm 34 was next given out, but when -the first verse had been sung Mr. Spurgeon stopped the singing abruptly -and said in a tone which was meant to be commanding: “I must beg that if -you sing at all, you sing faster: there’s more heart in it if you sing -quicker. Praise God as if you meant it; put your soul in the words: it -will be more welcome if there’s spirit in it.” - -Mr. Spurgeon’s deacons, about twelve in all, are seated on two rows of -seats behind him, he and they occupying a high platform and prominent -place--probably fifteen feet above the floor of the church, where all -can get a good view of the man’s features--all except the deacons. - -The great preacher is now in his fifty-sixth year. Like his character -and his language, physically he looks strong and rugged, but his health -is not good. - -Mr. Spurgeon belongs to a family of gospel ministers. His grandfather -was an English divine; his father, Rev. James Archer Spurgeon, still -living, now occupies, or did occupy until very recently, a pulpit in -London; and he has two sons who follow his profession--one at Greenwich, -near London, and one at Auckland, New Zealand. - - * * * * * - -P. S.--Mr. Spurgeon died at Mentone, France, on Sunday, January 21, -1892, deeply regretted by all who had ever heard him or heard of him. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL’S. - - -All Americans who go to London visit Westminster Abbey, and some of them -make more than one visit. There is a rare charm about the grand old -pile. I never go to London without visiting the Abbey, and this was also -the custom of the late Aaron J. Vanderpoel, with whom I had the honor of -crossing once or twice. On one voyage westward, a fellow passenger was -James R. Cuming, of the famous law firm of Vanderpoel, Cuming and -Goodwin. Mr. Cuming and I were fellow students in the old law firm of -Brown, Hall and Vanderpoel in the days of District Attorney Blunt, -never-mind-how-many years ago. Mr. Cuming’s hair is now tinged with -gray, but he has the same genial, agreeable qualities, and he is just as -modest, eminent and successful lawyer though he now is, as he was when -he and I were boys together in the Broadway Bank building on the corner -of Broadway and Park place. But none of this personal matter has aught -to do with the subject in hand. - -I was about to say that while all Americans go to Westminster Abbey to -see the monuments and other interesting things, all of them do not know -that two of England’s greatest men, their most renowned heroes of modern -times, are buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral--Lord Nelson and the Duke of -Wellington. - -One reason why American and other tourists who visit St. Paul’s seldom -see the tombs of these great men is because they do not know that the -cathedral contains them. The tombs are in the crypt, and unless you -knock on the great iron gates leading to the crypt and pay a sixpence, -you cannot obtain admission. - -But besides the tombs of these two celebrities, a number of other -eminent Englishmen lie buried in the cathedral. Among the monuments -(over their tombs) may be read the names of General Gordon, Admiral -Napier, Sir Christopher Wren, the architect, and the famous artists, Sir -Joshua Reynolds and J. W. M. Turner--in fact, as there is a Poet’s -corner in Westminster Abbey, so there is a Painter’s Corner in St. -Paul’s Cathedral. - -Nelson’s remains are covered by a great sarcophagus of black marble, -which was intended for the tomb of Cardinal Wolsey. The Duke of -Wellington is buried in a sarcophagus of porphyry, of which the upper -part, forming the lid, alone weighs seventeen tons. - -A visit to St. Paul’s discovers many other interesting things, and it is -the opinion of the writer that it is one of the three grandest public -buildings of modern times, the other two being the Capitol in Washington -and the Palais de Justice in Brussels. - -The cathedral itself has an interesting history. The first St. Paul’s -Cathedral was built by Ethelbert of Kent, in the year 610. It is said to -have been destroyed by fire in 961, rebuilt and again destroyed by fire -in 1086, rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by fire in 1666. -The present structure was built by Sir Christopher Wren and took -thirty-five years to complete, being finished in 1710, at a cost of -something like £747,954 sterling--nearly four millions of dollars. It -covers more than two acres of ground. The height from the pavement to -the top of the cross is three hundred and sixty-four feet three inches. -You get a good view of the building from the Thames. The best view of -the building, however, is from the top of an omnibus going east down -Fleet street, but this view is now somewhat marred or obstructed by the -railway arch which crosses Ludgate Circus. - -A few figures about the bell and the clock may not be without interest. -The former, called Great Paul, weighs sixteen tons, fourteen -hundredweight, two quarters, nineteen pounds; height, eight feet ten -inches; diameter at base, nine feet six and a half inches; thickness -where the clapper strikes, eighteen and three-quarter inches. The -clapper is seven feet nine inches long and weighs four hundredweight. -The note is E flat. The clock has two faces, each nearly twenty feet in -diameter. The minute hand is nine feet eight inches long and weighs -seventy-five pounds; the hour hand is five feet nine inches long and -weighs forty-four pounds. The hour figures are two feet, two and a half -inches long. The pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is attached a -weight of one hundred and eight pounds. It beats once in two seconds. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE QUEEN’S MEWS. - - -Windsor, the royal residence, twenty-five miles from London, attracts of -course many American visitors, its features of interest including, -besides the castle and park, the celebrated stables. But as for stables, -the Queen’s Mews, near the centre of London, offer a much more brilliant -show. Admission is gained with little difficulty or formality--by -Americans. You simply call at the American Legation in Victoria street, -two or three blocks (as we’d say in New York), from the Victoria railway -station--a “penny ’bus” from Charing Cross passes the door. It is not -necessary to ask for Minister Lincoln; your card sent to Mr. White, the -secretary of the legation, or, in his absence, to Mr. McCormick, the -courteous assistant secretary, will secure you in return the necessary -pasteboard for yourself and party to visit the Queen’s Mews in -Buckingham Palace road--a very short walk from the legation and a -stone’s throw, so to speak, from Victoria station. - -The stables cover a few acres of ground. They contain the royal harness, -the carriage of state and other carriages, and have stalls for about one -hundred horses, in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men -are employed, those longest in the service being privileged to live on -the premises. There is nothing very remarkable about the horses’ -quarters; the stalls are not more luxurious nor are they kept in better -condition than many private gentlemen’s stables in New York and Newport, -nor are the horses particularly worthy of note, excepting the ten large -black stallions and eight cream-colored stallions, used in drawing the -state carriage on state occasions, as, for instance, when the Queen -opens parliament. The tails of these stallions, the blacks and -cream-colored, all reach to and almost sweep the ground, with the -exception of one big black animal, whose brevity of appendage is made up -on state occasions by the addition of a false tail. - -The harness for ordinary use is of black leather with elaborate bright -brass trimmings, that for state occasions is also of black leather, the -crowns and coats-of-arms, in solid metal, being heavily and richly -gilded. The harness is kept in perfect condition, and kept on show, -protected by glass doors and windows. You may see and admire the royal -reins, but they are not to be handled by common fingers. - -Among the carriages there is one kept for its past history and glory, -not for present use--a gaudy, gilded, theatrical-looking vehicle, the -weight of which is four tons, the great, heavily-tired wheels of which -measure six feet in diameter, the whole being of the respectable age of -one hundred and thirty years. The most beautiful feature of this curious -relic of by-gone days is the eight pictures set in as many panels, -painted by Cipriani, an Italian artist famous in his day. - -But the carriages for Her Majesty’s ordinary use and the carriage which -is reserved for state occasions, which is drawn by the eight cream -horses, are models of comfort, luxury and beauty. They are upholstered -with dark blue cloth, the only interior ornaments being of worsted -fringe matching the cloth in color. The wheels and body are dark blue, -the panels being painted in a lighter shade, the centre of each door -panel relieved by the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors, but -not larger in size than a silver dollar. The carriages are hung on C -springs and yield from any point to the slightest touch. - -I ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge that when Her -Majesty places her foot on the step her weight must make quite a -depression of the springs. “Does it,” said the royal flunky; “you should -stand ’ere when the Duchess of Teck gets in. The Queen’s cousin is a -werry heavy woman, God bless her. If you was to see her get in you -_would_ see a depression, or whatever you call it.” - -You will make a mistake if on leaving the Mews you do not drop a -shilling into the ready palm of both coachman and footman. - -[Illustration] - - - - -A QUESTION OF HATS. - - -Americans treat women better both at home and abroad than they are -treated elsewhere, and they certainly show the sex more deference and -respect in public and private than women are accustomed to receive in -many older countries. - -An American seldom addresses one of the gentler sex with his head -covered, unless it is in the open air; and while this is also the custom -in some European countries--in France and Switzerland, for instance--it -is not nearly so common in Germany or Great Britain. - -Englishmen with whom I have talked do not seem to notice such things, -but I know from long and careful observation, that men in London sit -with their heads covered during the whole of a theatrical performance. -They occupy seats in “the pit,” to be sure, but “the pit” in London is -compared by some with the back rows of the parquette in American -theatres. - -Should this meet the eye of a barrister, he might charge me with being -too general in my remarks. If he demands, in his “answer” to this -“complaint,” a “bill of particulars,” I will mention, among places where -I saw men sit covered during the whole evening, the Savoy Theatre, when -“The Gondoliers” was played, and the Shaftesbury Theatre, where Willard -performed in “Judah” in September, 1890. - -At a Covent Garden concert in the same year, I saw four or five hundred -persons on the floor (men and women) and not more than six men carried -their hats in their hands. I remember remarking at the time that -one-third of the number of hats were of silk plush (“top hats”), -one-third were derbys of a brownish hue, the other third were mixed--all -sorts. - -Even in the dress circle at a Covent Garden concert some men wear their -hats the whole evening--white hats, derbys, and heavy silk hats--and -this in warm weather, too. It no doubt is the custom; at any rate such -was the case on a certain “American night” (summer of 1890) when -American airs were played, Mrs. Alice Shaw, the beautiful whistler, -being the special attraction among the solo performers. - -And when men at London theatres do remove their hats, they seem to do it -reluctantly. They will enter a theatre and enter a box, remove their -overcoat and gloves, take out opera glass, and spread the play bill -before them, and then, as a last thought, if they think about it at all, -the hat will be slowly removed; they seem to be unwilling to part with -it. How different in American theatres, where every man quickly doffs -his hat the moment he enters the door of the auditorium. It is all the -more noticeable in London theatres because the women are obliged to -remove their hats before entering, and excepting at the Lyceum, the -Savoy, and possibly one or two other houses, they are obliged to pay for -their care. - -At third and second-class London restaurants, men wear their hats as do -people of the same class elsewhere, but some men in England not only -carry their hats into the dining-room of a first-class hotel, but carry -them on their heads until they take their seats; the presence of women -makes no difference. - -The editor of the New York _Press_ says: “There is no surer test of a -nation’s sense of courtesy than its treatment of women. Judged by this -standard, the people of the United States stand above those of any other -nation on the face of the globe.” - - - - -LONDON ODDITIES. - - -It serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of the postal -authorities to add the postal district initials in addressing letters to -London--as for instance, C., indicating central, or S. W., Southwest. -There are eight of these districts, and the necessity for adding the -initials will be seen when one learns that in London there are no less -than thirty-five King streets, thirty Queen streets, eighteen York -streets, a Victoria Park in the extreme east, one Queen Victoria street, -a Victoria railway station in the Southwestern district, a Hotel -Victoria in the western central and a Victoria Hotel in quite another -district. - -The postal system in London is as near perfection as it is possible to -make it. Few letters go astray, and the delivery is prompt, there being -from six to twelve deliveries daily; but by neglecting to add the -initial letter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours. -There are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in London, but in -addressing letters take care and take into consideration that there are -nearly six millions of people in London, that the streets and squares -cover eight thousand acres, and within a radius of fifteen miles of -Charing Cross seven hundred square miles are covered. Correspondence -between England and the United States also shows wonderful increase. Ten -years ago the number of letters which annually passed between the two -countries was eight millions; at present the number is twenty-four -millions. Reduction of postage rates has of course had something to do -with this great increase and it will bear further reduction. - -I happened to be near Euston station and wanted to go to my hotel in -Northumberland avenue. I stepped into a hansom, and not wishing to be -taken for a stranger I simply said “Victoria Hotel.” In five minutes Mr. -Cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin palace, bearing the -sign plain enough, “Victoria Hotel.” “I want the hotel in Northumberland -avenue,” I said to the driver. “Then why didn’t you say Hotel Victoria,” -was the sharp response, and cabbie charged me a fare and a half to -emphasize the distinction. - -The growth of London is something marvelous. More than ten thousand -houses annually, or, it may be roughly stated, one thousand houses every -month, are added to London. In August of 1889, 754,464 houses were -supplied with water by the water companies, or 11,113 below the number -in the same month of 1890. In September, 1890, the companies had to -supply 10,976 houses more than in September of 1889. In August of that -year 765,577 houses were supplied with water, and in September, 1891, -that number had increased to 766,797. - -The London police are a pleasant, polite set of men, and if they do not -refuse the price of a pint of beer for a slight service, neither will -they refuse to answer any question, respectfully and satisfactorily. The -contrast is very striking between these good-tempered, obliging -officers, and the sullen, saucy, sour-visaged, tobacco-chewing New York -policeman who is just as ready to answer with his club, which he carries -exposed, as he is with his uncivil tongue. London policemen are paid -from six to seven and a half dollars per week: New York policemen from -sixteen to twenty-four dollars weekly. A London police sergeant gets -only ten dollars a week. - -SIXPENCE FOR A PLAY BILL.--At the Prince of Wales Theatre and at the -Shaftesbury you are charged sixpence for a bill of the play, and at the -majority of London theatres you pay for a programme. The exceptions are -Irving’s Lyceum and D’Oyly Carte’s Savoy, where no employee is allowed -to accept a fee of any kind--not if the manager knows it. That does not -say, however, that a “tip” for a programme is unexpected, even at the -two houses named. - -CIVILITY AND SERVILITY.--There’s a difference between civility and -servility. You are pleased to have an omnibus conductor audibly “thank -you” when you hand him your fare, but in the London shops a saleswoman -will do the same thing even when you make no purchase. At the pleasant -Nayland Rock Hotel in Margate, on the south coast of England, a waiter -will thank you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you, or when -he hands you a glass of water--if you can get such a thing as water at -your meals in an English hotel. It is not obtainable without a little -trouble; everybody drinks wine. - -SOOT, SOOT, EVERYWHERE.--Owing to the use of soft coal in London, white -buildings are soon changed into black ones, partially. This change, -especially where one side of a set of Corinthian columns, for instance, -remains the original color, and the other side has gradually turned very -dark, gives some of the churches and public buildings a picturesque and -pleasing appearance. Yellow brick is very largely used, but it soon -changes color. If you place a tumbler of water outside your window at -night with the idea of keeping it cool, for you rarely see a piece of -ice, you will find a number of tiny globules of soot floating on the -surface of the water in the morning. And it is exceedingly difficult in -London to make weather prognostications, the sun being usually hidden or -half-hidden by London smoke, if not by fog. - -EXCHANGING COMPLIMENTS.--Englishmen say “as drunk as a Scotchman,” and -Scotchmen have a saying “as durr as an Englishman.” “Durr” implies -something more than quiet: it means surly, sullen. It cannot be denied -that English tourists are unusually quiet: they seldom speak without -having been formally introduced. That reminds me that two or three years -ago I was traveling on the Midland road from London to Liverpool, and I -happened to make some casual remark to a fellow traveler who was a -stranger to me. The gentleman replied very briefly but courteously, and -then added: “Beg pardon, you hail from the other side, do you not?” -“Yes, but why do you ask?” “If I didn’t detect it in your accent,” said -my neighbor, “I should know it because you addressed me. I have been -traveling between London and Liverpool now for many years, and I am -never spoken to but by an American, and I rather like it.” - -There are no “cross-walks,” as we call them, in the cities of Great -Britain; none are needed. Nor does anybody cross the street at right -angles, as we do in New York. Everybody crosses diagonally, from corner -to corner, or crosses in the middle of the block. The road-ways are so -smooth and well paved that all parts are alike, and it is never -necessary to pick your way. In New York, besides exercising great -vigilance to prevent being knocked down and run over by vehicles, you -must always keep one eye on the ground while crossing. You may be upset -by a car track, or you may step between two stone blocks that are a foot -apart, more or less. - -AS TO OYSTERS.--English oysters still retain their flavor, a great deal -of flavor; in fact they have entirely too much--that is to say, too much -for anybody whose palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste. You -can get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen, but choice “Whitstables,” -that have a strong, coppery flavor, come as high as four shillings a -dozen. For the uneducated American palate, Chesapeake oysters, or the -Great South Bay blue points are good enough. - -SERVANTS’ WAGES.--Servant girls’ wages in England are not nearly so high -as they are in the United States. Even hotel chambermaids, who are paid -better than family servants, only receive fourteen pounds sterling a -year--about ninety dollars, but each one is allowed a fortnight’s -holiday (with pay) at the end of the summer. And the “tips” they receive -from the guests are well worth consideration. - -There are differences between the habits of London and New York women -and here is one of the minor points: New York women go “shopping,” that -is to say they go into one store after another to examine the goods, as -a diversion or pastime; English women never enter a shop without the -intention to purchase; they make a business and not a pastime of -replenishing their wardrobe. To go on a shopping tour American women -often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry; English women on the contrary, -dress very plainly when engaged in their business of purchasing. They -reserve their fine clothes for the opera or for receptions, wearing no -extra finery even for ordinary visiting. They are not seen parading the -streets in silks and satins, and that is why some American writers who -do not observe closely say that “English women in the street dress in -dowdy style.” - -NO “FORELADIES” IN LONDON.--At the great dry-goods house and outfitting -establishment of Debenham & Freebody, in Wigmore street, not far from -the Langham Hotel, all the saleswomen are expected, nay, are obliged to -dress in black. They number two hundred, but not a “saleslady” nor a -“forelady” among them. They make derision of these terms, which are so -commonly heard in New York. The firm also employs six or seven hundred -young men. All the unmarried employees live on the premises, and this -plan is found to operate satisfactorily to all concerned. The young men -wear black coat, waistcoat and necktie. Many years ago salesmen in -London dry-goods houses were not allowed to wear a moustache, but there -is more liberty now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates. - -You don’t hear the words, corsets, dresses nor pounds, in London shops -of the first class, such as Kate Reily’s, Debenham & Freebody’s or -Redfern’s. They have gone back to the old-fashioned term--stays, gowns -and guineas. English merchants favor the last term because a guinea is -worth a shilling more than a pound. - -CUSTOMS IN ART GALLERIES ABROAD AND AT HOME.--The English National -Gallery, in Trafalgar square, London, like our Metropolitan Museum of -Art and like nearly all galleries in different parts of the world, is -only open free on certain days of the week, while the great French -collection at the Louvre, in Paris (probably the largest and most -valuable collection of pictures under one roof) is always free, and may -be visited without application to any circumlocution office. The Louvre -is open six days of every week in the year; only on Mondays are the -public not admitted, the officers reserving Monday for repairs and -cleaning. In nearly all of the public galleries of Europe, as in the -Corcoran gallery in Washington, you are obliged to leave your umbrella -or walking stick in charge of an official at the door and for the care -of such an article a fee is charged in some places; at the Louvre you -may carry into the galleries as many umbrellas and bundles as you -please. This is not always an advantage: for my part I am only too glad -to be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such occasions. It seems -strange that men while viewing pictures in the foreign galleries should -persist in wearing their hats--it seems strange to a New Yorker; the -custom being so different at our Academy of Design. - - - - -POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. - - -The drinking habit among men and among women and girls still remains the -curse of Great Britain, and its companion, poverty, is everywhere. But -if the poverty is striking and awful to behold, its next-door neighbor, -charity, God be praised, aims to keep pace with it. Hospitals and other -philanthropic institutions supported by voluntary contributions, are to -be seen almost wherever the eye turns in the United Kingdom. - -The patriotic and other public funds, to meet special emergencies at -home and abroad, may well challenge the world’s admiration, not only for -the princely amounts subscribed, but also for the hearty and expeditious -way in which the funds are raised. The charitable institutions of the -city of London number upwards of one thousand, and simply of asylums for -the aged (colleges, hospitals and almshouses), there are one hundred and -twenty distinct institutions. - -But to return to the drinking habit, which presents itself before you -constantly: I was riding up to London from Margate with a hotel-keeper, -at whose house, on the edge of the surf, I had been staying for a week, -and I remarked that the drinking water at Margate was of good quality. -“Is it?” said Mr. Knaggs, for this is the name of the agreeable -gentleman who presided for three years over the destinies of the Nayland -Rock Hotel. “Is it?” said mine host. “Well, you know more about it than -I do, for I’ve never tasted it.” - -On Sunday, while at dinner at Philp’s Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh, just -before dessert was served, a small box was passed around the table by a -waiter and into it people were dropping sixpences, shillings and pieces -of higher denomination. At once it occurred to me, here’s another -overcharge or extra I had not counted on, and I began inwardly to rebel. -“What’s this for?” I blurted out in a rather injured tone. “Collection -for the Orphan School, sir,” and I gladly added my mite. Afterwards I -saw money boxes in hotels and restaurants in other parts of Scotland and -in England labelled, for example, “For Charing Cross Hospital; funds -urgently needed,” etc. Little boys and young women go about the busy and -better parts of London on Sundays with boxes in their hands, begging you -to “drop a penny in” for this charity or that--and you find it very -hard, indeed, in London to keep any coppers in your pocket, so strong -are the appeals. On hospital days the number of hospital boxes is -largely increased temporarily. At this time sheets are spread in -churchyards, into which people throw their spare change liberally. - -“The People’s Palace,” which was opened by the Queen in jubilee year, is -a noble illustration of the charitable English heart. The “People’s -Palace” is situated in one of the poorer quarters of London, and, as -everybody knows, is the realization of an ideal conception of Walter -Besant in his novel, “All Sorts and Conditions of Men.” The palace -includes a well-stocked library; a reading-room, supplied with papers -from all parts of the world; a large swimming bath and a hall for -musical and literary entertainments. In the basement of one of the main -buildings boys are taught trades by which they may earn their living. -That the recipients of all this good may not feel that they are objects -of cold charity, a slight charge per month is made for those who use the -reading-room, library, swimming bath, etc., and there is a nominal -charge, about four cents each person, for admission to the concerts and -lectures, which are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of -celebrity. - -I visited that part of the Whitechapel neighborhood which “Jack the -Ripper” made infamous as the scene of his murders. It was a vile place -three years ago, but the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand. -The Baroness Rothschild opened wide her heart and purse and erected -here, for the poor of this unfortunate quarter, blocks of modern model -tenements. These she lets at very low rents, asking only three per cent. -return for her investment. In connection with the tenements the noble -woman has built a well-appointed “Club and Library,” with billiard-room, -etc., for the amusement of her tenants. These premises are in charge of -a custodian and his wife, who are paid for their services by the -Baroness; and for the use of the “Club and Library” a merely nominal -charge is made to any of the tenants who avail themselves of the -privilege. It is not sectarian. In England they believe in “Faith, Hope -and Charity,” and of these three that “the greatest is Charity.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -WHERE IS CHARING CROSS? - - -You hear a great deal about Charing Cross in London, but you may look in -vain for a street sign bearing that name. Very few people in London know -exactly where it is, nor does even the policeman on the “beat” know. -Strange to say, neither the Charing Cross Hospital, the Charing Cross -Station, nor the Charing Cross Hotel is in Charing Cross. Much as it is -talked about, it is a very short street, extending easterly only from -Cockspur street, then southerly, past the equestrian statue of Charles -I. to Scotland Yard or Whitehall. Low’s Exchange is in Charing Cross, -and within two or three hundred feet of that spot (No. 57), is the very -centre of the city of London. From this spot cab fares are reckoned. -Start from here and you can ride anywhere, within a radius of two miles, -for one shilling. Low’s Exchange, by the way, is a very popular -rendezvous in London for Americans. It is where they “most congregate,” -and it offers many conveniences for travellers. - -If you are traveling on the other side make this your headquarters. -Telegrams, letters, and even printed matter are forwarded to you with -the utmost promptness. A special work of the house is the securing of -state rooms on board steamers. It saves you much worry and bother, and -the service of this agency costs you nothing, Mr. Low getting his pay -from the steamship companies. Edwin H. Low served his apprenticeship, as -it were, to this business, in the office of the National Steamship -Company in New York, many years ago, and since then he has had large -experience. The headquarters of the concern are at 947 Broadway, and Mr. -Low may be seen sometimes at his New York house, at other times in -London, but there is a very capable man who acts as general manager for -Mr. Low in Charing Cross--Mr. George Glanvill, who served Mr. Gillig for -many years at the American Exchange, 449 Strand. By all means register -at Low’s. - - - - -MARGATE, - -AN ENGLISH WATERING PLACE. - - -I was ill in London, at the Windsor Hotel in the summer of 1890, and as -my friend Dr. Walter M. Fleming of New York happened to be in London at -the time, at the Savoy Hotel, I sent for him. The fact is that I had -been receiving too much “attention” from my friends--dinners, drives, -concerts, theatres, suppers, etc., all of which resulted in physical and -nervous exhaustion. - -Dr. Fleming’s prescription was simple--“rest and a change of air,” but -as this was Dr. Fleming’s first visit to England, I began to question my -friends and others as to the best pharmacy at which to have the -prescription filled. The proprietor of the Windsor Hotel, Mr. J. R. -Cleave, said “Margate;” so, too, said the intelligent manager of the -house, Mr. Mann. An old and trusted friend wrote me, “Don’t go to -Margate, go to Brighton or to Hastings.” Thus opinions differed. I knew -all about Brighton and wanted to see a place new to me. I was much -inclined to go to Hastings, but a consensus of opinion prevailed in -favor of Margate. - -“There’s a beautiful air at Margate,” is the response of everyone in -England to whom you speak of that place, from the boys at Low’s exchange -in Charing Cross to Mr. Richard Whiteing, editor of the London Daily -News. This remark was also made to me by Major Arthur Griffiths, an -English author and _litterateur_, who is known and esteemed on both -sides of the Atlantic. So to Margate I went. - -Margate is on the south coast of England, seventy-five miles from -London, whence it is reached by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. -This is the road celebrated for the beautiful rural scenery that borders -it; it passes through the prettiest parts of Kent, “the garden of -England,” through Rochester and Canterbury, famous for their cathedrals, -and other places of historic and scenic interest. You may also reach -Margate by steamer from London Bridge. It is a pleasant sail on the -Thames of ninety-three miles. - -Having arrived at Margate, you can make it the starting point for many a -delightful excursion. Boulogne on the French coast, for instance, across -the channel, is directly opposite Margate; steamer fare round trip, six -shillings--a dollar and a half. - -Other pleasant excursions are made to Canterbury and to Ramsgate. To -these places run “pleasure vans” accommodating twenty persons and the -fare ranges from threepence to a shilling, according to the style of -vehicle. If you do not care to patronize the pleasure vans, you may hire -a victoria at two shillings per hour. Canterbury is the site of the -famous cathedral. At Ramsgate lived the Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses -Montefiore, for nearly the length of his long and useful life--one -hundred years. - -Another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned village of -Broadstairs, for many years the home of Charles Dickens. The house -Dickens occupied and which he called “Bleak House,” still stands on its -commanding site at the top of the cliffs directly overlooking the sea. A -description of Bleak House, with illustration, appeared in the Home -Journal in January, 1891, and has been widely copied in this country as -well as in England. Broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from Margate, -fare by victoria four shillings. - -Few Americans who cross the ocean go to Margate, but they may spend a -couple of days or a couple of weeks there with advantage. Margate is a -town with a history. Its foremost historical feature is the Church of -St. John, built in 1050. It has seen the rise of Norman, Plantagenet and -Tudor dynasties and still stands, the oldest of England’s possessions. -In the time of Queen Anne, according to the chronicler, to be buried in -a sheet cost sixpence, and a shilling was the extravagant price of a -coffin, but the honor of being buried from St. John’s Church cost two -shillings more! Marriage banns were to be had at St. John’s for -three-and-six. - -Modern Margate is one of England’s most popular watering-places. There -are many pleasant walks and some fine buildings. One of the pleasure -resorts is the ocean pier. Here, three times a week, a large band of -picked musicians perform a good programme giving a promenade concert -directly over the breakers. - -It is the boast of the Britisher that his government is “parental;” it -not only assumes to take charge of the individual, but it does in many -particulars compel him to take care of himself. If, for instance, you -are caught boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined “forty -shillings” (ten dollars)--a favorite sum for a fine, by the way, is that -same forty shillings. - -The pier at Margate would seem to be an exception to the rule of safety; -it cannot be called absolutely safe at night. The boat landing below is -reached by several flights of wide stairs, and the lowest flight is open -and unguarded, not only in daytime but also at night. In addition to -this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at all, and it would be -the easiest thing in the world on a dark night to walk off by accident -into the water. Why more accidents and loss of life do not occur is -surprising. Twopence admits you to the pier, and it is a popular -democratic resort. - -At night the scene near the pier is a lively one. Street restaurateurs, -their barrows ablaze with flambeaux, line the highway and drive quite a -business selling plates of oysters, mussels, cockles and snails, which -are more or less tempting. - -[Illustration: MARGATE.] - -If you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to Margate. There is no -high-rolling surf, but if you are a swimmer you will be all the better -pleased. There are no ropes to lay hold of, none are necessary; you -bathe in perfect safety and comfort, and, as at all English resorts, you -bathe from a “machine.” - -In America bathing facilities consist of long rows of commodious wooden -boxes placed on the beach at some distance from the surf. You purchase a -bathing ticket for twenty-five or fifty cents, the price depending on -whether you prefer a woolen to a cotton costume. You receive the suit -and the key of your box. Then you put your valuables in an envelope -sealed by yourself and hand them to the custodian, who places them in a -separate box in an enormous safe, returning you a check tied to a rubber -band, which latter you pass over your head and wear while bathing. You -proceed to your “house,” as we call it, disrobe and don your scant suit, -lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of the water, where, as -fancy dictates, you loll around on the beach, talking to your friends, -or you plunge immediately into the breakers only to come out, dry -yourself in the sun, cut up capers on the sand, chat or smoke, repeating -the process _ad libitum_. Of course men and women bathe together. - -Not so in England. There you bathe from “machines,” small wooden houses, -five feet square by ten feet high, mounted on four wheels. They have -entrances back and front, each approached by a low flight of steps. You -enter by one door in street costume, and having disrobed and donned your -bathing garments, you give the signal, a horse is attached to the -“machine” which is drawn a short distance into the water. You step down -and out, disport yourself in the water as long as you please and reënter -your box, to emerge therefrom once more in everyday habiliments. No -lolling about the beach, no unseemly display of person; all is -conducted in a proper, staid and exemplary manner--on the beach. - -And in sooth, why should you walk around and smoke and chat with your -friends on this occasion, in a costume, or lack of costume, which if -worn at other times or places would land you in jail for exposure of -person? This with reference to the American custom or costume. - -In England it is worse in some respects, for while the women dress as -they do here, the men bathe in a nude state, so to speak. They wear -small trunks or loin cloths only, and men and women bathe together -indiscriminately. Notices are posted in prominent places near the beach, -boldly printed and bearing the English coat of arms, to the effect that -in the water men and women must remain separate, and further that you -will be fined forty shillings (of course forty shillings) if you are -found nearer to a female than one hundred yards; but it is a dead letter -law, and is entirely disregarded. I am not the most prudish man in the -world, but I confess to having been shocked. Trunks did not suit me; I -preferred and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon special -application. - -The beach is hard and smooth, broad and gently sloping. The bluff at -Long Branch is not to be mentioned, scarcely, with the bold, beautiful -white chalk cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach -at Margate to a height of seventy-five feet. Along this bluff are miles -of grassy, serpentine walks, gardens prettily laid out, dotted with -summer houses and bounded by hedges and clover fields--a beautiful, -natural landscape, artificially enhanced. - -The favorite bathing place on the beach is managed by Charlotte Pettman. -It is reached by a “coast guard” cutting in the cliff, an inclined -passageway sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge. It is a -sort of artificial cañon. Bathers are charged sixpence each, “six baths -for two-and-six, twelve for four-and-six.” - -Mrs. Pettman advertises her baths by a circular which contains the -following touching verse, no doubt assisting trade materially. - - “I pitied the dove, for my bosom was tender, - I pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind; - But I ne’er shall forget the superlative splendor - Of Charlotte’s sea baths, the pride of mankind.” - -In his early days of struggle the great Charles Dickens, for a few -shillings, penned these lines as a “puff” of Day & Martin’s blacking. - -So far as the waves are concerned, the cliff is as solid as it appears -to be, but it has yielded to the hand of man, and at Charlotte Pettman’s -baths there is a statue sculptured in the cliff, entitled “My first -plunge.” It is the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in -bathing costume, just about to take “a header” from the platform. It is -by Priestman, an English artist. The door is opened to art lovers for -twopence each, or as much more as the generously disposed may be -inclined to give, the proceeds being handed over to a local hospital. - -One of Margate’s architectural features, as seen in the accompanying -illustration, is its handsome clocktower, standing in a conspicuous -position on the Marine drive. It was erected in honor of the Queen’s -Jubilee in 1887, and has a musical chime of bells. - -Like Brighton and some other seaside resorts, Margate is democratic in -the height of summer, but select in the autumn. In olden times the -season commenced in June and continued until October. Margate offers -every inducement to a prolonged season. While London is miserable under -November fogs and humid atmosphere, Margate is brilliant with glorious -days and bright skies; fine weather from August until Christmas. - -Americans, of course, must flock to the largest hotel. They like size, -and many of them patronize the Cliftonville Hotel, which, to be sure, is -a large establishment in the most fashionable, and certainly the most -attractive part of the town, near the grand cliffs, and overlooking the -sea--a splendid site and a beautiful house exteriorly, but not as well -kept as an American host might care for it. - -The White Hart Hotel, on the principal street, is a commercial house, -and has a comfortable appearance from the outside, but the Nayland Rock -Hotel, not far from the two railway stations, yet overlooking the sea, -and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit into the water -(provided you have the biscuit), is to my knowledge a well-appointed -hotel, with bedrooms as clean and comfortable and dining-room as -cheerful as any hotel in the world. The cuisine is of the best. If great -variety be absent, quality is present. The food is choice, and served in -a neat, tempting and scrupulously clean manner. - -European hotels, as a rule, are kept on the European plan; at the -Nayland Rock you have your choice. If you choose the American plan, the -terms are very low for the accommodation afforded. Two dollars and a -half a day secures you pleasant room, three good meals, lights and -service. There are no extras. The wines are of first quality. - -But I almost forgot an important item. I went to Margate for health and -rest; I found both there. After one week I returned to London “like a -lion refreshed,” and I shall always say, as everybody in London says, -“there’s a beautiful air at Margate.” - - - - -TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. - - -The company that owns the Grand Hotel and the Métropole in London, -opened in March, 1890, a magnificent house at Brighton, on the English -southern sea coast. “Magnificent” is the word. It is built of stone; it -faces the sea; it has an acre or two at the back laid out in gardens, -tennis courts, and pretty walks, after the style of the United States -Hotel at Saratoga; there is a separate building on the grounds for a -ball-room, in this respect resembling the Grand Union Hotel at the same -American spa; the elegant drawing-room on the ground floor looks on the -King’s Road and the ocean; the library, which faces the garden, contains -a large and choice selection of books by leading authors, and in the -basement there are Turkish and Russian baths fitted up with a luxury and -perfection of appointment not equalled in any other hotel. The -proprietors have availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the -construction and furnishing of hotels, and nothing that money can -supply, or good taste can suggest, has been left undone to make the -Métropole at Brighton what it is--one of the most beautiful and -luxurious hotels in the world. It is said to accommodate six or seven -hundred guests. - -Besides this hotel, and the Grand and Métropole hotels in London, the -same company owns another hotel in London, “The First Avenue,” in -Holborn; also the Burlington at Eastbourne; the Royal Pier Hotel at -Ryde, Isle of Wight; the Métropole at Monte Carlo; and the Métropole at -Cannes--all of them luxurious establishments. - -Brighton attracts visitors the year round; in fact it is a city of no -mean size, having a permanent population numbering an eighth of a -million. It enjoys two seasons--one for the _hoi polloi_, which begins -in June and lasts three months, and another for the fashionable world, -which begins in September and continues till near Christmas. During the -second season the prices at Brighton are greatly increased. - -I entered one of the leading hotels one day about lunch time, and as is -my custom before engaging rooms or partaking of a meal at an English -hotel, I asked: “What is the charge for a _table d’hôte_ lunch here?” -“Two-and-six,” replied the porter. As for seeing the lessee or manager -of an English hotel, you can almost as easily secure an audience with -the czar of all the Russias. - -But to return to my muttons--or to the lunch, which, truth to tell, was -good in quality and nicely served. My daughter heard the following -conversation between the head waiter and the said porter as we were -passing in to the “coffee-room.” Quoth the former:--“How much did you -tell these people for lunch?” “Two-and-six,” replied that blue-coated, -gold-embroidered official. “That’s wrong,” remarked the head waiter, who -almost lost his head as well as his temper. “Three shillings is the -price to strangers,” and three shillings each we had to pay. - -This reminds me of the old story of the Englishman who was heard to -remark about a man passing, who had a foreign look: “’Ere’s a stranger, -Bill, ’eave ’arf a brick at ’im.” - -That they call these apartments in English hotels “Coffee Rooms,” when -they never serve in them a cup of coffee after dinner without a separate -and extra charge, is rather exasperating. - -The porters and officials at some English hotels are not, though it -appears as if they were, in league with the cabmen. If you ask them -about rates just before taking a drive they will occasionally mislead -you and name a higher rate than the usual or legal one. For instance, I -asked the clerk at another hotel in Brighton, what was the fare by the -hour for a drive in an open cab or victoria holding two persons. “Four -shillings per hour,” quickly responded my misinformant. I knew better, -for this was not my first visit to Brighton, but said nothing. To a -cabman with a good-looking victoria who stood immediately opposite the -hotel entrance I popped this question: “What will you charge us for an -hour’s drive along the beach and about the town?” “Two-and-six,” briskly -replied cabbie and we drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for -the half crown. - -[Illustration] - - - - -A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. - - -Bleak House, the scene of the novel of that name, is near the village of -St. Albans, about twenty miles from London, and is described in the -early part of the story as an “old-fashioned house with three peaks in -the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the porch.” That there -was more than one Bleak House in the mind of Dickens “there can be no -possible probable manner of doubt,” as Gilbert sings in “The -Gondoliers,” because at the close of the story one of the characters in -it is made to say, “Both houses are your home, my dear, but the older -Bleak House claims priority.” - -But the “Bleak House” which was for many years the home of Charles -Dickens, and where he wrote many of his novels, was so named by the -author after his famous story. It is located in the old-fashioned -village of Broadstairs, on the North Sea, in the county of Kent, the -garden of England, and is seventy-two miles from London, on the London, -Chatham and Dover Railway. The population is given in the latest census -as two thousand two hundred and sixty-three. - -The house was formerly called Fort House, from its proximity to the -British fortifications on the coast. It stands directly on the top of -the chalk cliffs, seventy-five feet above the water, quite alone, and so -near to the edge that from the portico a stone might be easily thrown -into the surf--what little surf there is. It - -[Illustration: BLEAK HOUSE.] - -commands a wide view of the ocean. In the southwest it looks toward -Ramsgate, a seaside pleasure resort, distant five miles; in the -northeast toward Kingsgate. The house is appropriately named, for it is -indeed bleak from Christmas until April, when the cold, biting northeast -winds, for which these parts are noted, blow with all their might. - -It was natural for Dickens to select such a spot for a residence. If he -was not actually fond of the sea, he certainly had a great liking for -the sea-coast, with which were associated the earliest memories of his -childhood. It will be remembered that he was born at Portsmouth, a -fortified seaport town, and the principal naval station of Great -Britain, about one hundred miles southwest of London. Dickens lived at -Portsmouth until he arrived at his majority. At Portsmouth he studied -law, but he found Blackstone and Coke rather dry reading, and so went to -London where, as every body knows, he entered upon his literary career -by reporting parliamentary debates for the _Morning Chronicle_. - -Bleak House is a plain, substantial, compact, three-story structure of -burnt brick. It has grounds of one and a quarter acres in extent, and -the property is what is called in England “freehold;” value, two -thousand seven hundred pounds sterling. A stone wall five feet high, -encloses the house on two sides. One side of the house is a flat, blank -wall, evidently planned so that an extension could be easily made, and -the lower part of the front is protected by plain iron railings. The -entrance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a portico and -doorway supported by Doric columns. Next the doorway, on the first -story, a semi-circular bay window projects, and on the second story are -two deep windows which open upon a pretty ornamental iron balcony, -having a curved, sloping roof. A great deal of ivy softens the bareness -of the architecture. It climbs up the walls and around the bay windows. - -Dickens was very partial to the ivy plant, as his lyric, “The Ivy -Green,” testifies. He wrote several lyrics, but “The Ivy Green” which -appeared originally in “Pickwick Papers” is the only one that has become -familiar. It was first published as a song in the United States, and -when a London publisher wished to reproduce it in England, Dickens -refused the privilege except on the condition that the publisher pay ten -guineas to the composer, Henry Russell. - -Dickens was more thoughtful concerning Henry Russell’s rights than this -English composer is of the rights of others. I well remember that my -predecessor on the _Home Journal_, the much beloved poet, George P. -Morris, had a grudge against Russell, because Russell, in England, -claimed to be the author of the words, “Woodman, Spare that Tree,” as -well as the composer of the music; and it is my humble opinion that the -music in merit is far below Morris’s poetry. The sentiment is beautiful, -the words breathe a true, manly spirit and are full of deep feeling, -while the music is plaintive, weak, childish--namby-pamby expresses it. - -Russell did better with the English poet Mackay’s song, “Cheer, Boys, -Cheer,” making it go with life and spirit, and he set appropriate music -to our own Epes Sargent’s song, “A Life on the Ocean Wave,” in which you -may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship bowling along before -the wind. Henry Russell, who, by the way, is a father of Clark Russell, -the novelist, is still living in London--February, 1892. - -As to the melody, “The Ivy Green,” an astute critic says: “It seems to -me the composer has failed to catch the poet’s meaning. Dickens’s words -are as sombre and tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and -softens the ruggedness of decaying grandeur; while Russell’s music is -as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak.” The song opens with this -stanza: - - A dainty plant is the ivy green - That creepeth o’er ruins old, - Of rich choice food are his meals, I ween, - In his cell so lone and cold; - The wall must be crumbled, the stones decayed, - To pleasure his dainty whim, - And the mould’ring dust that years have made, - Is a merry meal for him. - Creeping where no life is seen, - A rare old plant is the ivy green. - -The house is about fifty years old, and contains ten rooms. Dickens’s -study was on the second floor, front. It has a southeastern outlook; he -was fond of the rising sun. The furniture and appointments of the room, -which the writer saw in the autumn of 1891, remain as when Dickens left -them--table with telescope, bookcase, plain wooden armchair, etc.--a -very simply furnished study. He did not die at Bleak House, however, but -at a short distance from it, on June 9, 1870, at Gads’ Hill, “Higham by -Rochester, Kent,” as he was in the habit of dating from. - -Dickens, at Bleak House, was a tenant of a Mr. Fosbury, but the house -was sold after Dickens’s death, and is at present owned in Broadstairs -by “W. S. Blackburn, house and estate agent, undertaker, builder and -decorator, and upholsterer and mover of furniture,” by which -man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a very short term to a Mrs. -Whitehead, sister of the vicar of St. Peter’s of Broadstairs, at an -annual rent of six hundred dollars. Mr. Blackburn now offers the -property for sale. It would make a cool and charming summer retreat for -some American prince. Or let some large-hearted and large-pursed man -like George W. Childs buy the precious property and present it to the -village of Broadstairs. - -[Illustration: BLEAK HOUSE FROM THE NORTH SEA.] - - - - -TAKIN’ NOTES - -IN EDINBORO’ TOWN. - - -Singular that more Americans do not “take in” Scotland when they are -making the grand tour. Its historic interest and its scenic beauty are -great. Glasgow is reached direct from New York by the fine fleet of -Anchor boats, numbered among which are the “Furnessia,” the “Devonia” -and the “City of Rome.” Excepting the last named the Scotch boats are -slow in these days of “racers” and “greyhounds,” but they are very -comfortable vessels, as I know, from experience, and I have crossed in -seven days by the “Rome”--crossed, that is, from Queenstown to New York. - -If you don’t care about bustling, busy Glasgow, with its smoke and its -dirt, bonnie Edinburgh is distant only sixty-five minutes by express -trains of the Caledonian railway, one of the best built and best -equipped roads in Great Britain. - -It hasn’t the commerce of Glasgow, not being a seaport, but it is the -cleanest city I ever visited, and one of the most beautiful. Many -travellers consider London the most interesting city in the world, but -to a casual observer, the four most attractive cities in Europe are -Rome, Paris, Brussels and Edinburgh. - -The whole city is built of granite and freestone. You don’t see a brick -excepting in a very few and very tall factory chimneys. To some eyes -this is monotonous; to mine it is pleasing. It looks, and it is, -substantial, solid and strong. - -Don’t come at any time, not even in August, without winter clothing. The -winds are keen and cutting. Umbrella and “waterproof” are -indispensable; overshoes, also, if it is your habit to wear them, for -“the rain it raineth every day”--so to speak. This is not the remark of -a hasty tourist. I have been making trips to Scotland for the past -twenty years and I have stayed there for weeks at a time. - -It is cool here and rain is frequent, but everything in this life has -its compensation. This is the twentieth day of August, 1891, and we have -strawberries for breakfast every morning and fresh green peas are in -season. Large, luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a quart. -Edinburgh, remember, is four hundred miles north of London. The twilight -is long and late, I was reading a badly-printed Scotch newspaper this -evening by daylight at half-past eight. - -Labor is cheap here, and yet boys do men’s work, such as driving carts -and sweeping the streets. - -The drives in and about Edinburgh are very attractive, and there are no -better roads anywhere. - -There are tram-cars in the city: fare, inside, two pence; “on top,” one -penny. There are also two lines of cable cars. - -In a “distillery agent’s” window, in Princes street, I saw flasks of -wine marked “two shillings.” I stepped in and bought a flask. “One penny -more,” remarked the salesman. “For what,” said I, inquiringly. “For the -cork.” When I reached my hotel I applied a corkscrew; it wouldn’t budge. -The penny “cork” was a glass stopper with a “worm,” to screw on and off. - -It strikes a stranger as rather odd to see men and boys carry so much on -their heads and to see them balance their loads with such nicety. -Instead of using small, light push carts, or delivering goods in baskets -hanging on the arm, as is done in New York, Edinburgh boys use a tray or -flat board with an edge turned up, in which they carry vegetables, meat, -poultry, fruit, etc. This tray is placed on the head and is scarcely -ever touched by the hand except to load or unload. The head in -Edinburgh is made to do good physical service. - -The house still stands, and is likely to stand for centuries, in which -Walter Scott lived for years, and in which he wrote several of his -novels. It is of granite, with a rounded (swelled) front, three stories -high and about thirty feet wide. You must look it up when you go to -Edinburgh--No. 39 Castle street. It is now used for office purposes, and -is tenanted by doctors, lawyers, civil engineers and the like. In the -transom window, over the door, you will see a small marble bust of the -novelist. - -Princes street, the principal street, is not very long, only about one -mile, but as far as it goes it is not easily surpassed in any city. On -one side are the principal hotels and business blocks, all of granite or -freestone; on the other side are the handsome Princes Gardens with -monuments and the magnificent Art Institute in the foreground, and in -the background such buildings as the Castle, several churches and the -Bank of Scotland. - -The gardens, with their terraces, gravel walks, fountains, rustic seats, -lawns and flower-beds are uncommonly attractive. It would seem that -nowhere are the flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in -the Princes Gardens. - -Blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in George street, not -so crowded a thoroughfare as Princes street, but in which a very select -business is transacted. - -Thomas Nelson & Sons have the largest book publishing establishment in -Scotland--I was going to say in Great Britain. Their business buildings -cover a vast space of ground, and Mr. Nelson’s residence, not far from -Holyrood Palace and Arthur’s Seat, is one of the most attractive private -citizens’ residences in this part of the country. It was only two or -three years ago, so a coachman informed me, that Mr. Nelson gave ten -thousand pounds to restore the front of the castle. - -David Douglas, whose retail house is at No. 9 Castle street, makes a -specialty of publishing and republishing works of American authors, and -finds his profit in it. You may pick up on his counters almost anything -of Longfellow, Holmes, Lowell, Howells, Winter and Aldrich. Winter’s -“Shakespeare in England” and his latest work, “Gray Days and Gold,” were -both published by Douglas, duplicate plates being sent over to Macmillan -of New York. - -Talk of books being expensive in England: these very books by Winter -which Macmillan sells in New York at seventy-five cents each, -Douglas publishes at two shillings; in paper covers for one -shilling--twenty-five cents. - -Douglas’s people tell me that Winter’s books find a ready sale in Great -Britain. The critics and the reading public are delighted with his -sketches of English and Scotch scenery, and especially with his -scholarly and beautiful descriptions of Stratford-on-Avon and -Shakespeare’s country. They think that no author has written with more -reverence and feeling about Shakespeare. They find “his language -poetical and his style artistic, with a Meissonier-like finish.” - -FRUITS AND FLOWERS.--In Scotland herrings are always sold by pairs, -haddocks by threes. In England and Scotland fruit is sold by the pound, -so are vegetables: and this fair and excellent method proves -satisfactory to buyer and seller. Flowers and fruit are sold in the same -shop: the signs read, “fruiterer and florist.” Flowers are very high in -price. They use growing flowers and living plants in pots very freely to -decorate the dinner table, but this idea, which is pretty enough in its -way, is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms. So many tall plants make -the table look dark and heavy, and the broad leaves prevent you from -seeing your neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of the -table, for in some hotels they still persist in using the old-fashioned -long tables which are neither home-like nor comfortable. Choice fruit, -being either imported from the warmer climates or grown under glass, is -very expensive in the British kingdom. You pay sixpence or a shilling -for a peach or nectarine; two shillings each for choice varieties. The -largest and handsomest peach ever grown, possibly, or certainly ever -shown, was exhibited last summer in a shop window in Buchanan street, -Glasgow. It weighed eighteen ounces, price three-and-sixpence. - -The capital of Scotland is always spelled Edinburgh, but is always -pronounced Edinboro’. - -In the stamp department of the post-office in Edinburgh there is a -shallow indentation about four inches square in the table, in which a -piece of felt is kept constantly damp. Instead of putting the stamp on -your tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it on the -envelope. Small matter, but very convenient, and shows thoughtfulness on -the part of the authorities. - -STREET RELIGION.--There’s a great deal of poverty and drunkenness in -Edinburgh, but there is also a great deal of religion. All the churches -are well attended on Sunday, and there are preaching, praying and -singing in the public streets. Church choirs, men and women, stand and -sing in the public highways. In the lower quarters of the city they -attract people with a harmonium, which is wheeled about from place to -place. Passers-by stop, join in the singing, and in fine weather uncover -their heads. The singers are not paid for their services. - -THE DOGS.--Here’s a hint for the society which Mr. Henry Bergh -founded:--On the sidewalk in front of large shops and public buildings -in Glasgow and Edinburgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels -filled with water for passing dogs. The vessel is simply and legibly -marked “DOG.” Probably the dogs cannot read, but they seem to know or to -“nose out” the shops where such a humane practice is carried out. But a -certain Scotch editor contends that Scotch dogs can read. - -INDIA RUBBER PAVEMENT.--The attention of every stranger who walks in -Princes street, Edinburgh, is immediately arrested as soon as he gets in -front of a certain shop, nearly opposite the castle, where rubber goods -are sold. His attention is arrested because he finds himself on a -yielding pavement. It is a rubber “sidewalk” (as we say in New York), -and was laid there by the enterprising shopkeeper. It is very pleasant -and comfortable to walk on, and so durable that the authorities have -talked about putting down rubber pavements on both sides of Princes -street. - -GLASGOW UNIVERSITY.--There is not much for the tourist to see in Glasgow -except the university, the cathedral, founded in the fourteenth century, -and the municipal buildings. But the first-named is worth walking many -miles to visit, if one is interested in such things. I spent several -hours in the university with pleasure and profit. This university, -Glasgow people claim, is the finest in Scotland. It accommodates -twenty-three hundred students, who pay on an average of forty pounds a -year. It is generously endowed. The buildings are of granite and present -a noble appearance, standing on very high ground in their own large -park, which is beautifully laid out with terraces, flower beds and -gravel walks. There are some grand old trees in the park, and a pretty -winding lake, over which are thrown many picturesque bridges. Though it -is a seat of learning, you will not expect the services of a college -professor as a cicerone, but you might naturally expect to hear fair -English spoken. The liveried servant who guides you will tell you, with -strong aspirations, of the “helementary” classes and the “school of -harts.” In describing the _modus operandi_ of taking the gold medal, the -graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair, which is several hundred -years old, you will be told “it’s a very ’igh honor.” - -In the “Edinburgh Café,” a fairish kind of restaurant in Princes -street, opposite the Scott monument, a penny is charged for the -privilege of washing your hands, and a penny for the use of a napkin. -The majority of this café’s customers, however, if the truth must be -told, make a _mouchoir_ serve for a _serviette_. - -SLIPPERS SUPPLIED FREE.--If you go to Philp’s Cockburn (pronounced -Coburn) Hotel in Edinburgh, it matters not if you have forgotten to pack -your slippers in your portmanteau, for the porter will provide you with -a pair. One hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are kept at this hotel -for the use of guests. A foot of any size can be accommodated, and there -is no charge. - -Smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of Scotch hotels, and a notice to -that effect is posted in each room. “Smoking rooms” are provided, and -only such apartment may be used for this purpose. They are both smoky -and dingy. - -AN EDINBURGH DOLLAR DINNER.--I have dined at the leading hotels in New -York, at “The States,” in Saratoga, the Breslin, at Lake Hopatcong, and -my experience includes the leading hotels in the principal European -capitals, and the leading hotels in the Southern and far Western States, -as far as California, yet I can say that the _table d’hôte_ dinner -served at Philp’s Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh (on Sunday, August 24, -1890), will rank with the fare at any of these houses, and it excels the -table d’hôte at some high-priced hotels in London and Paris. And the -price charged for this dinner was very moderate--only four shillings, -about one dollar. The dinner included grouse, peaches, strawberries and -nectarines, and from the hare soup down to the dessert, everything was -well cooked and nicely served. The charge is remarkably moderate when it -is understood that this is a “temperance house,” and when you know that -the choice fruit is grown under glass at high cost. The dinner would -have been perfect with _café noir_ at the close, but this is not served -in British hotels without additional charge. - - - - -THE BURNS MONUMENT. - - -If Baltimore is the monumental city of the United States, Edinburgh may -surely be called the monumental city of the United Kingdom. The majority -of its public buildings, of freestone or granite, are noble structures -standing on hills in the heart of the city, and for their situation -alone would command admiration--the old Castle, Nelson monument, the -city prison, the National Gallery, the Bank of Scotland, etc. No bank in -the world occupies a more commandiug site than the one just named. Owing -to the peculiar natural formation of the land upon which the city is -built, an observer may stand in one spot in Edinburgh (say the Waverly -Gardens) and see a greater number of splendid buildings at a glance than -may be seen simultaneously from the level in any other city. - -Not among the largest by any means but among the most interesting must -be reckoned the Burns monument, which occupies a high position near its -still higher neighbor, the Nelson monument, on Calton Hill. The Burns -monument was built in 1830 for the purpose of containing a marble statue -of the poet by Flaxman. The building, of freestone, is a circular temple -on a quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of twelve -Corinthian columns which support an entablature and cornice. Over this -is a cupola, a restoration of the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The -whole is surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins. The -extreme height of the structure is fifty feet, the twelve outside -columns are fourteen feet high and the twelve inside columns are ten -feet high. The latter are of freestone painted to represent variegated -marble. The cost of the monument and statue was three thousand three -hundred pounds sterling (about sixteen thousand five hundred -dollars)--not a large sum considering the result attained. - -Besides the statue of the poet, the monument holds a number of -relics--letters written by or to Burns, the worm-eaten three legged -stool upon which the poet sat in 1786 and ’87 while correcting the -proofs of his poems, and other things of interest. One of the most -interesting letters is that subjoined. As is well known, the poet -spelled his name Burness (his family name) until the publication of his -poems in 1786. The letter is thus addressed: - -To - - Mr. James Burness, - - Writer, Montrose. - -_My Dear Cousin_: - - When you offered me money assistance, little did I think I should - want it so soon. A rascal of a haberdasher to whom I owe a - considerable bill, taking into his head that I am dying, has - commenced a process against me and will infallibly put my emaciated - body into jail. Will you be so good as to accommodate me, and that - by return of post, with ten pounds. O, James, did you know the - pride of my heart you would feel doubly for me. Alas, I am not used - to beg. The worse of it is my health was coming about finely, you - know, and my physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits - are half my disease. Guess then my horrors since this business - began. If I had it settled I would be, I think, quite well in a - manner. O, do not disappoint me. - -Among other relics preserved in frames and hung on the walls is the -printed newspaper report of Burns’s death. This occurred at Dumfries, -July 21, 1796, and the report appeared in the London _Herald_ of July -27--nearly one week after. The London _Herald_ of that day was a very -small sheet, about fifteen inches long and only four columns wide, -price fourpence halfpenny a copy. The obituary notice is unique and is -worth reproducing to-day: - - DEATH OF MR. ROBERT BURNS, - - THE CELEBRATED POET. - - On the twenty-first instant died at Dumfries, after a lingering - illness, the celebrated Robert Burns. His poetical compositions, - distinguished equally by the force of native humor, by the warmth - and tenderness of passion, and by the glowing touches of a - descriptive pencil, will remain a lasting monument of the vigor and - versatility of a mind, guided only by the light of nature and the - inspirations of genius. The public, to whose amusement he so - largely contributed, will learn with regret that the last months of - his short life were spent in sickness and indigence, and his widow - and five infant children, and in the hourly expectation of a sixth, - is now left without any resource but what she may hope from the - regard due to the memory of her husband. - -Apropos to the subject come these remarks in the New York _Sun_: - - It is better to write a little book that is full of heart and - brains than a big book that lacks both. Probably there is no writer - but Robert Burns who has made such broad and enduring renown as his - through a book as small as his. This thought arose while taking a - glimpse of a new statue of the bard that is to be erected in a city - out West. There is a statue of Burns in our Central Park; there is - another up at Albany; there is at least one in Australia, and there - are several statues of him in the British Isles. All that he wrote - appears as a tiny volume in the latest edition of his works; much - of it is in a dialect that is hard to be understood by - English-speaking people, and he died in obscurity about one hundred - years ago. Yet there are probably as many public statues of him in - various parts of the globe as there are of Shakespeare, who wrote - voluminously. - -Monuments, however, are not Edinburgh’s only attractions, but do not -count on seeing the sights there on Sunday. The day is closely and -strictly observed. London is surely quiet enough on a Sunday, but it is -gayety itself when compared with the capital of Scotland. Not a shop is -open; even the drug shops are open only during two hours. Everything is -shut as tight as a drum in Edinburgh except the churches, and to these -you must either walk or hire a carriage, for not the wheel of an omnibus -or car turns on Sunday. - -[Illustration: THE BURNS MONUMENT.] - - - - -[Illustration] RIGHT REVEREND THE MODERATOR, - -JAMES MACGREGOR, D. D. - - -In September, 1890, I had the privilege of listening to England’s -foremost preacher, Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, in his Tabernacle at Newington -Butts, in London; and one year later, on Sunday, September 16, 1891, -happening to be in Edinburgh, I made it a point to hear the Rev. James -Macgregor, the leading light of the Scotch Presbyterian Church. - -Americans mostly flock to St. Giles’s in Canongate, on account of its -age and historical associations. They attend divine service there early -in the morning with the soldiers from the old castle. But I wanted to -hear a great preacher, so I repaired to Synod Hall, which the members of -St. Cuthbert’s parish were using as a temporary place of worship. - -The extensive alterations, internally and externally, which were then -making in St. Cuthbert’s Church, will render it, in some respects, -worthy of the site, and of its long and honorable history. The present -structure dates from the year 1775. Only the tower and spire of the old -church will be retained, and the new edifice, which will not be finished -until the autumn of 1892, will accommodate a much larger number of -people than the former building did. - -It is a notable fact that on the spot where the building stands--under -the Castle Rock of Edinburgh--Christian worship has been continuously -maintained for more than a thousand years. It is, indeed, one of the -very oldest shrines in Scotland, hallowed by the prayers of the -faithful, which have arisen from it for century upon century. - -Originally a mere Culdee cell, dedicated to the memory of Cuthbert, the -monk of Lindisfarne, it has passed through a variety of forms. Changing -with the revolutions of Scottish history, it has been Roman Catholic, -Presbyterian, Episcopalian, and finally Presbyterian. - -The whole aspect of the place where it rose has changed. The Nor’ Loch, -which stretched away from it eastward under the Castle Rock, has -disappeared; the sweep of undulating country has been transformed into -wide streets; a great city has arisen around it; and it still remains -what it has been for ages, a centre of Christian influence to a wide -community. - -It is interesting as a piece of religious history to note that within -little more than a stone’s throw of the site of the present structure is -the spot where the first General Assembly was held on the 20th of -December, 1560. It consisted of forty-two members, of whom only six were -ministers. The first name on the roll is that of “John Knox.” It was a -fully equipped Ecclesiastical Convention, and at once proceeded to -important business. There is no parallel instance of a court with such -authority springing so suddenly into being. That authority was almost -sovereign. It was based on the sanction and support of the popular will. -With a power to which the Scottish Parliament never attained, it was the -representative assembly of the Scottish people, embracing within it from -the very beginning the pith of the nation’s manhood. The General -Assembly was simply the Scotch people convened, through their natural -representatives, to settle their own religious affairs. And they did it -effectually. Never was a change so radical and so beneficial effected in -as brief a space of time as that accomplished by the Scottish -Reformation. - -So much for the past. Synod Hall, which, as I have said, was temporarily -occupied by the congregation of St. Cuthbert’s, is a large freestone -building occupying a prominent site in Castle Terrace opposite the back -of the Castle. It accommodates about twenty-five hundred people. A bold -placard in the vestibule informed the hundreds of strangers in and about -the vestibule that they would be admitted into the body of the church a -few minutes before the services commenced. The “strangers” waited with -all the patience they could command, and when the sign was made by one -of the deacons, they flocked in, a large space at the back of the house -being set apart for them. Soon every seat was occupied and people were -requested to please sit closer together. Then, when there was not an -inch of room to spare on the benches, chairs were placed in the aisles. - -Dr. James Macgregor, the present minister, was appointed Moderator of -the General Assembly for the current year in May, 1891. He has been -connected with St. Cuthbert’s for fourteen years, having succeeded Dr. -Barclay, now in Montreal. St. Cuthbert’s, or, as it is also called, the -“West End Church,” is not given to making changes oftener than is -necessary. Dr. Barclay is said to be the only man who ever left St. -Cuthbert’s; his predecessors all died at their posts. - -In Synod Hall there is no organ; the music was supplied by the -congregation and a choir. St. Cuthbert’s usually rejoices in a large -choir, but on the occasion of my visit many of its members were “away on -their holidays,” as they call their vacation in Great Britain. The choir -on that Sunday numbered fifteen--three men and twelve of the gentler -sex. - -Mr. Edie, a promising and rather brilliant man under thirty, who has a -clear voice and a Scotch accent is assistant to Dr. Macgregor. The first -selection of song which he gave out was the 129th Psalm: - - Lord of the worlds above - How pleasant and how fair - The dwellings of Thy love, - The earthly temples are. - -Then Mr. Edie read the 62d Chapter of Isaiah. The next selection for the -congregation was the 102d Psalm, 6th Verse: “And God in His glory shall -appear;” and then the 356th Hymn: “Te Deum Laudamus.” - -Mr. Edie concluded his part of the services with a fervent and beautiful -prayer in which, after the Queen, Prince of Wales, the princess, the -judges and magistrates of great Britain were enumerated, special mention -was made of the President and people of the United States; of “our -wandering brethren, the children of Israel; of our Catholic brethren; -bless all honorable business men; bless our friends and also those who -have wronged us.” - -Dr. Macgregor, who then rose from a chair, took his text from the 4th -Chapter, 1st Verse, of “Hosea:” “Hear the word of the Lord, ye children -of Israel.” - -Then followed a brilliant discourse on the history of the Jewish race, -in which, incidentally, much information was conveyed, the main ideas -being: first, that the government of Great Britain should use its -influence in behalf of the Russian refugees; second that the Christian -people owe much to the Jews and should therefore be most charitable -toward them. - -The minister paid a high tribute to the chosen people and their -characteristics. He said that the countries which abused them most, -Spain and Portugal, had been least prosperous, and it would be strange, -indeed, if Russia suffered not for its inhuman persecution of them; -that, in fact, it was suffering. - -Notwithstanding that they had been downtrodden for centuries, the Jews -were vastly stronger in numbers to-day than ever before in the history -of the world, numbering at the present time twelve millions. - -The speaker showed that the decline of Jerusalem was owing to the -comparatively small number of Jews there in later years, and he strongly -advocated their return. - -To quote the doctor almost verbatim: “I may be criticised for -criticising Russia. Some may say: ‘Let each country look after its own -affairs, and it will have enough to do. It is none of England’s business -what Russia does,’ but I say it is the business of every civilized -country, of every civilized man; it is your business and my business; it -affects each and every one of us; it hurts you and me, and it is to be -hoped that Great Britain will lift up its voice and use its influence in -behalf of these much injured refugees.” - -If this discourse had been especially prepared to deliver before a -strictly and exclusively Jewish assemblage, it could not have been more -complimentary to their people. One of its “points” was thus worded: -“There must be something wrong with that man’s head--with that man’s -heart who despises the Jews.” - -Dr. Macgregor has the title of one of Her Majesty’s chaplains; he is a -member of the Hon. Royal Scottish Academy, and a member of the Royal -Society of Edinburgh, but a self-made man withal. He is not ashamed to -acknowledge that his parents were poor and modest. He may have lacked -early advantages, but he certainly has made the best of his later -opportunities. He is a man of fine intellect; a ripe scholar, with broad -and liberal views. His language is choice, and yet the fine phrases and -well selected words seem to follow each other with great ease. His -diction is neither stilted nor is it too simple but that of an -intellectual man who is addressing intelligent people. - -His voice, notwithstanding a certain and unmistakable nasal quality, is -penetrating--and his elocutionary powers are great. I was on the last -bench, with my back against the wall, and I heard almost every word. I -could not follow the speaker quickly on account of his strong Scottish -accent--“murdering” became “mu_rr_de_rr_ing,” with a most decided roll -of the _r_, and “Turks” came to me in two syllables, something like -“Turreks,” while “earth” was changed to “airth,” with the _r_ in the -middle by no means slighted. - -The speaker’s facial expressions were a study, and his gesticulations at -times strikingly dramatic. He appealed in tender and pathetic tones to -the hearts of his hearers, with hands uplifted as if in supplication, -and then again he would raise his head and fold his arms across his -chest in a Napoleonic, defiant attitude when combating the arguments of -an imaginary adversary. - -In fact, he does not seem to be addressing a large audience, but talking -to and debating with but one person, and each person in the congregation -might imagine that he was that one. He takes both sides in the debate, -and makes both effective, but he carries the day for his own because he -is on the side of right. - -Dr. Macgregor closed the service with Hymn 117: - - Arm of the Lord, awake, awake! - Put on Thy strength, the nations shake; - And let the world, adoring see - Triumphs of mercy wrought by Thee. - -When the moderator is in the pulpit you do not notice that he is below -the medium height; only when he steps down, and when you stand by his -side, do you observe that he is small of stature--not much over five -feet. His eye has a most kindly expression, his voice is pleasing in -conversation, and his manner gracious and gentle. The accompanying -portrait is reproduced from a photograph made by John Moffatt, 125 -Princes street, Edinburgh. - -On the day I had the good fortune to be present, there were in the -congregation many prominent members of the Archæological Society of -Scotland, who were on a temporary visit to Edinburgh, including the -Bishop of Carlisle and the Earl of Percy, heir to the dukedom of -Northumberland. - -After the service I had the honor of being presented to Dr. Macgregor by -a member of this society, in “The Moderator’s Room,” so inscribed on the -door. Upon hearing that I was “from the States,” he immediately -expressed his great admiration for the country and its form of -government. He seemed to be well-informed regarding our people and the -country, and said that one of his cherished hopes was to make us a -visit. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CROSSING THE CHANNEL. - - -There are many ways of “crossing” between the Continent and the English -coast, or _vice versa_. The best steamers between England and Holland -are those which go from Rotterdam to Harwich. Harwich (Anglice, -Harridge) is about a two hours’ run up to London. I have tried the -different ways of crossing from the French coast to England--via -Newhaven and Dieppe, Folkstone and Boulogne, and Calais and Dover. The -last route is by far the best. It would be preferred over all others, if -for only one reason, because it is the shortest, the English Channel -being “disagreeable” at least one half the year. The Calais and Dover -boats are advertised to make the trip between the two points “in seventy -minutes,” and they do actually make it in one hour and a quarter. The -other routes are much longer. No small craft that ply on the English -waters are as beautiful in their appointments as our Hudson river boats, -or those for instance of the Fall River line, but they are staunch and -swift, and they are manned by as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a -deck. The English boats are proof against wind and wave, the only danger -being from fire or fog, but as they are officered by skillful and -experienced navigators, and are very carefully handled, the danger is -reduced to a minimum. - - - - -PARIS HOTELS. - - -Paris is not in the least behind other cities in the number of its -hotels nor in the variety of accommodations offered. Your choice must -depend first upon the length of your purse; second, upon the length of -your stay; third, the purpose of your visit. The number in the party and -their individual tastes and requirements must also be taken into -account. - -I have not passed near so much time in Paris as in London. The most I -can do is to suggest a few of the choicest hotels and _pensions_ with -which I am acquainted, giving their rates and distinctive features. - -For information as to Where to Dine in Paris I must refer the reader to -a chapter further on, entitled “The Restaurants of Paris,” by that -facile magazinist and connoisseur in many arts, Mr. Theodore Child. It -first appeared in a book entitled “Living Paris,” which was published in -London three years ago by Ward & Downey, and is the most complete and -comprehensive Guide to Paris I have ever seen. - - -THE GRAND HOTEL. - -The Grand Hotel is one of the largest and most expensive. It is grand in -size; grand in appointments. It is not a cheap house in any sense of -that term, and possibly for that reason is largely patronized by -Americans. The building occupies a square block facing that magnificent -street, l’Avenue de l’Opéra, diagonally across from the Grand Opera -House. It encloses a large courtyard with fountains and parterres. The -_caves_ of the Grand are ranked as one of the sights of Paris; they are -stocked with the choicest of wines. Rooms from six francs per day: table -d’hôte dinner, seven francs. - - -HOTEL CONTINENTAL. - -The Continental, on the corner of the rue de Rivoli and rue Castiglione, -is opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Near by are Hotel des -Invalides, the Madeleine, the Eiffel Tower and other interesting -buildings. It is large and elegant--grander than the Grand. The grounds, -with the structure and furnishing are said to have cost a few millions -of francs, and it may be readily believed. Some of the rooms are -palatial in size, furniture and decorations. - -The rates at the Continental are a little lower than at the Grand. They -range all the way from five francs to thirty-five francs per day for -room; lights and attendance extra. Breakfast of coffee, chocolate or tea -with rolls, from one to two francs; breakfast proper, or _déjeuner à la -fourchette_, five francs, wine and coffee included. Table d’hôte dinner, -seven francs. At all Paris hotels wine is included in the charge for -dinner, but at the Continental on Sundays, champagne as well as _vin -ordinaire_ is served free, but not, as in the case of the latter, in -unlimited quantity. - - -HOTEL MEURICE. - -Smaller than these two hotels and for that reason thought by some to be -more select is the Hotel Meurice, in rue de Rivoli. It is near rue -Castiglione and opposite the Tuileries gardens, altogether a beautiful -location. Issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning to the left, a -few minutes walk brings you to the Palais Royal and the Louvre -galleries; or turning to the right a few steps bring you past the hotel -Continental, to Place de la Concorde and the Champs Élysées. It may seem -strange to those who have not lived in continental hotels, to note that -the hotel Meurice is scrupulously clean. You observe this in its -beautiful courtyard, in its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept -bedrooms. - -The hotel is patronized by leading New York families and by the best -English society, and it ranks as does the Brunswick or the Victoria in -New York. The _cuisine_ of the house is famous and its cellars contain -rare wines. Hotel Meurice was established in 1815 and its present -proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years. If your stay in Paris -is to cover a week or more, you--and especially the ladies of your -party--will find this hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn; -Baedeker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are accompanied by -ladies. Hotel Meurice has electric light, and new plumbing was put in a -few years ago. It accommodates two hundred guests. Single rooms from -five francs per day; apartments from fifteen to one hundred francs. -Table d’hôte dinner, at six P.M., six francs. Proprietor, H. Schëurich; -address, 228 rue de Rivoli. - - -HOTEL CHATHAM. - -Hotel Chatham is justly famed as one of the most elegantly appointed of -Paris hotels. I have known it for twenty years, and for twenty-five -years it has been the temporary home of travellers of all -nations,--those who demand the best hotel accommodations. Hotel Chatham -occupies a central location, near the Opéra, rue de la Paix, the -theatres, and the best shopping streets. Once inside the house, however, -and an air of tranquility reigns that is in marked contrast to the busy -life of the city, in the midst of which the hotel is situated. The first -feature of the Hotel Chatham that attracts attention is the large, -light, and spacious courtyard, fifty by one hundred feet. It makes an -impression that gains in favor when you see the apartments. The grand -salon, the reading-room and café look out upon this courtyard, which is -embellished with plants and flowers. - -The sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished, have plenty of light -and good ventilation. There are elegant suites, also choice single and -double rooms. The decorations are in good taste. In the best apartments -the walls are not hung with paper, but are covered with stuffs--a -mixture of worsted and soft silks. Hot and cold water on every floor. -Two features especially commend themselves to those who are acquainted -with foreign hotels; there are two Otis elevators, and the house is -lighted throughout by electricity--shedding a light in the rooms, not of -one _bougie_, but of twenty. The cuisine represents the perfection of -the culinary art, and the wine-cellars are celebrated for their famous -vintages. - -The Hotel Chatham is the home of the best people and many Americans -annually seek its hospitality. The Harpers, for instance, members of the -great publishing house, are among its regular guests. The present -proprietor is M. H. Holzschuch, son of the late owner, under whom the -house acquired its wide fame. Hotel Chatham is at 17 and 19 rue Daunou, -between rue de la Paix and Boulevard des Capucines. - - -HOTEL BINDA. - -Everybody in Paris knows the Hotel Binda, and it is known by a great -many people who have never been in Paris. With New Yorkers the house is -a favorite because it is kept by Mr. Charles Binda who for years was -manager of Delmonico’s, and this settles at once and satisfactorily the -important question of _cuisine_. The house was opened in 1878. It is -solidly built of stone, five stories high, and is an imposing structure. -It stands in rue de l’Echelle, on a corner of the avenue de l’Opéra, the -principal business street of Paris, and probably the handsomest shopping -street in the world. It is most conveniently located for the principal -places of interest--the Grand Opera, Palais Royal, the Louvre galleries, -etc. One minute’s walk brings you to the rue de Rivoli, that wide open -street, one side of which is flanked by the open and beautiful gardens -of the Tuileries. - -If in the heat of a summer day in walking to Place Vendome or to the -Champs Élysées, you wish to avoid sunny rue de Rivoli, shade is at your -very door in the narrow but picturesque rue St. Honoré, which, with its -little shops, its hotels, old churches, etc., is a feature of outdoor -life in Paris. - -The Grand Opera is at the other end of the Avenue de l’Opéra, a short -walk. But omnibuses pass the door, by which you can reach any part of -Paris at the expense of a few sous. And, for that matter, it is only a -thirty-cent cab fare to the Grand Opera, to the offices of the American -Minister, Whitelaw Reid, in Avenue Hoche, or to the Anglo-American Bank -on the corner of Chaussée d’Antin and rue Meyerbeer. _Cocher_ will go -fast enough if by the course and slow enough (too slow) if by the hour. - -Instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in Paris have, and which in -some cases are useless, the space on the ground floor is used by the -Binda for a grand, glass-enclosed reception and reading-room, -beautifully lighted by day and by night. There is also a grand -drawing-room and a smoking-room, which unlike the dingy rooms turned -over to the use of men in some English hotels is, in the Binda, a very -bright and attractive apartment. - -All the apartments are comfortably and tastefully furnished, but some of -the rooms are furnished in palatial style. There are baths on every -floor and some rooms have running water. Of course there are electric -lights and an _ascenseur_, Anglice “lift.” But for all its grandeur, one -may live at the Binda at moderate cost. - -If you know about how wide you wish to open your purse in selecting -apartments you can tell as precisely as you could in an American hotel -how much your bill will amount to for a stay of five days or five weeks. -Single rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day; double -rooms from fourteen to thirty francs. Special rates, lower than these, -are made to guests remaining a length of time. Here is the tariff for -the dining-room: Plain breakfast (tea or chocolate) 1f. 50c., about 30 -cents; table d’hôte dinner, served at separate tables, 6f., servant’s -board 6f. per day. No charge is made for attendance. - -That Charles Binda is proprietor is guarantee that the table is equal to -the Cambridge in New York, or the Albemarle in London, and these satisfy -the most fastidious. Mr. Binda is famous for his _cuisine_, but he -prides himself most upon the quality of his guests. He demands that -above and beyond everything else his house shall be select, and it is so -in the fullest sense. You may meet crowned heads and princes there. Hon. -Thomas L. James, one of New York’s honored and honorable citizens, with -his charming family, stayed at the Binda while he was in Paris last -summer, and I also saw Judge Dittenhoefer, the family of Vice-Consul -Hooper, and other well-known Americans in the reading-room. Yes, the -Binda is a select family hotel. Address No. 11 rue de l’Echelle. - - -HOTEL ANGLO-FRANÇAIS. - -There are several comparatively small but decidedly pleasant hotels in -rue Castiglione--Hotel Liverpool, Hotel Balmoral and Hotel -Anglo-Français. The last-named is especially to be commended for its -choice location, the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms, its -appetizing cuisine, and its remarkably moderate charges. It is in rue -Castiglione, directly opposite the Continental; two blocks one way from -the Column Vendome, two blocks from the Place de la Concorde, near the -Champs Élysées, and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful gardens -of the Tuileries. - -Like the majority of Paris hotels, the Anglo-Français is entered by a -court-yard, but unlike some of them, the ventilation and lighting of the -house are good. It has ample room for more than one hundred guests, and -they can be made very comfortable. - -The house is kept on the American as well as on the European plan. If -you adopt the system which prevails abroad, you may hire a single room -as low as four francs per day, or a double room from seven francs per -day; breakfast, three francs; luncheon, four francs; table d’hôte -dinner, six francs. This figure includes good wine in _quantum -sufficit_, as a medical man might say. As at nearly all Continental -hotels, “service” is charged. In this instance it is one franc per day; -and you pay for lights--item seventy-five centimes, about fifteen cents. - -But if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and save the bother of -reckoning, you can stay at the Anglo-Français, and your whole bill per -day for board, lodging, lights, wine, etc., will be the moderate sum of -fifteen francs (three dollars), which, considering the appointments of -the house, the excellent table and the attention you receive, is an -uncommonly low rate. - -The proprietor is a gentleman of decidedly pleasant and courteous -manners, who, having lived in England for twenty years, is perfectly at -home in the English language as well as his native tongue. - -If you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set, the Bristol is your -house; if you want to see and be with Americans only, then select the -Grand. The Continental is the place for those who would feast their eyes -on palatial salons: at the Anglo-Français you will get into the company -of good people from different countries, you can be quiet and -comfortable and made to feel at home, as is to be expected in a smaller -house. Moreover, your purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance -with the figures given above. Proprietor, Paul Vargues; address, No. 6 -rue Castiglione. - -HOTEL DE LILLE ET D’ALBION, in rue St. Honoré is not a very large house, -but it is ranked among the best, although its charges are quite -moderate. It has baths, lift, electric light and English billiard -tables, its modern contrivances including telephonic communication with -the leading European cities. The sanitary arrangements are said to be -perfect. The location is central for shopping, for places of amusement -and points of interest, being near Place Vendome, Tuileries Gardens and -the Opera. Mail address, 223 rue St. Honoré: telegraph address, -Lillalbion, Paris. - -HOTEL BRISTOL AND HOTEL DU RHIN both front on the Place Vendome; you -can’t miss them: they are near the tall and graceful Column Vendome -which pierces the sky from the centre of the square. There is no -question as to the excellence of either of these houses. Both are -patronized by a select class of patrons; the former is the home of the -Prince of Wales when he visits Paris. - -HOTEL LIVERPOOL is patronized by the Astors. To Americans this -information conveys more than could be detailed in a whole page of -description. It is situated at 11 rue Castiglione, a wide and -fashionable thoroughfare leading from Place Vendome to the Tuileries -Gardens. The house was recently newly fitted up and has a hydraulic -lift. There are large apartments for families making a more or less -prolonged stay; smaller apartments for transient guests. - -HOTEL DE L’ATHÉNÉE. Of hotels just as select as any of those mentioned, -there are a score or more. Among them may be mentioned the Hotel de -l’Athénée, 15 rue Scribe. It was recently enlarged, the whole of the -Théâtre de l’Athénée having been added, and the former dining-room is -now converted into a reading room. There are two bath-rooms on each -floor. The appointments include a parlor, a reading room, a restaurant a -la carte, and two private dining-rooms. There are 180 rooms in all, -which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day, but there are not -very many rooms in the house at four francs. - -DES DEUX MONDES.--A comfortable family hotel, newly and tastefully -furnished, is the Hotel des Deux Mondes, 22 Avenue de l’Opéra, facing -full south. The charges are moderate and the table d’hôte good. - -PRINCE ALBERT.--If price alone is a recommendation there is the Hotel du -Prince Albert, 5 rue St. Hyacinthe, near the Tuileries. Rooms from 2 -francs 50 centimes per day with even lower terms for the winter. The -house seeks American patronage. - -HOTEL BRIGHTON, 218 rue de Rivoli. Rooms from 6 francs per day: -breakfast, 2 francs, dinner 7 francs. Proprietor, A. Bastianello. - -HOTEL CAMPBELL.--This favorite house with an English name has changed -hands, lately. Arthur Geissler is the new proprietor. It is at 61 and -63 Avenue de Friedland, a pleasant and fashionable location, near the -grand drive of the Champs Élysées. The house is in a healthy condition -and the rates are moderate, Hotel Campbell is easy to find; it is close -to the Arc de Triomphe. - -[Illustration] - - - - -PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. - - -But you are not forced to patronize any hotel, large or small; there are -many very delightful _pensions_ or boarding houses in Paris. These some -people prefer, if their party includes ladies, or if they intend to make -a protracted stay. A few of these _pensions_ are presided over by -American women. - -THE LAFOND combines some of the best features of hotel and _pension_. It -is at 14 rue de la Tremoille, near the Champs Élysées. It is called “a -comfortable American home,” and is made all the more comfortable by -having a lift. Rates for two persons in one room, with three meals per -day, 18 to 30 francs per day; single rooms, 10 to 15 francs per day; -children and servants, half rates. These figures include all charges; -the American plan. If you prefer the European plan, these rates -prevail--breakfast, two to four francs; luncheon, three francs: dinner -at 7 P.M., five francs. Cable address, Lafhotel, Paris. - -HOTEL DE DIJON is situated in rue Canmartin, between the Opéra and the -Madeleine. It is a family _pension_, and the charges range from 7 to 10 -francs per day, according to rooms. Soirées are held every Friday with -music, singing and dancing. The table d’hôte is good; there are reading, -smoking and bath-rooms. - -THE VAN PELT PENSION at 69 Boulevard St. Michel is kept by Mrs. E. L. -Van Pelt, a Philadelphia woman who took with her to Paris the best -American references. This place has many features which commend it to -the stranger in Paris. Its location, facing the Luxembourg Gardens, is -near the famous art schools and the Sorbonne, where free lectures are -given, thus making this a desirable residence for students. It is within -easy access by omnibus, cab or train to all parts of Paris and environs. -The house stands on a corner, and all the rooms are exposed to the sun -and air. A balcony surrounds the first floor. French is the language of -the household, and a chaperon accompanies ladies to lectures, etc. There -is a separate table for those who prefer to speak English. - -AMERICAN FAMILY HOME.--This term is appropriately applied to the -_pension de famille_ presided over by a young French widow whose -personal beauty and grace of manner are more than marked. Reference is -made to Madame Veuve Léon Glatz, who is assisted in her duties by her -sister. Both of them speak English with a pretty and piquant accent. The -Glatz _pension_ is in rue de Clichy, five minutes distant from St. -Lazare Station and Park Monceau; ten minutes from la Madelaine and the -Opera. It was built in 1885 and is sanitarily correct; supplied with -pure spring water from the new water works of Paris. There is a really -grand _salon_ in which _musicales_ are given weekly. In the rear of this -is a large and handsome garden, neatly kept--a very pretty lounging -place on summer evenings. There are baths in the house, the bedrooms are -nicely furnished, the service is good, and last, and by no means least -worthy of note is the table, which is liberally supplied; the best as to -quality. But Madame Glatz at present has only room for thirty guests and -her house is in such demand that you must engage rooms months, or at -least weeks, in advance. Terms, 8 to 14 francs per day, which is the -full charge; no extras, except, possibly, for lights. This is a favorite -place with Americans of refinement: others are not admitted to Madame -Glatz’s charming family circle. Address, 45 rue de Clichy. - -THE POWERS PENSION--One of the most desirable _pensions_ in Paris, -especially desirable for Americans, is kept not by a “charming -Frenchwoman,” nor by a “hearty” Britisher, but by a couple of -cultivated, good Americans, well-known in New York--Mr. and Mrs. J. G. -Powers, Jr. The house is in a high and delightful location, in the -American quarter, 69 Avenue d’Antin, near the Champs Élysées. Mrs. -Powers claims that it is “the most elegant and comfortable _pension_ in -Europe,” and I, who have had some experience in hotels and _pensions_ of -the first rank, do not contradict the statement. I am not given to using -the adjective “elegant” too freely, but elegant and tasteful are words -that come to mind without summoning, in speaking of the Powers -_pension_. The _salon_ is a beautiful apartment; yes, uncommonly -beautiful. It is on Monday evenings more particularly that this _salon_ -looks its best, when the receptions, with music, are held. The Powers -_pension_ is a select family home in the strictest sense of the term, -and the rates for board are quite reasonable: pleasant rooms and three -meals from ten francs per day. A lift was put in last autumn. Make a -note of the address--69 Avenue d’Antin. - -In the hotels mentioned the reader has a very wide latitude of choice -and he may be guided by the facts and the figures set forth, so far as -they go. As a last word I will add that if the reader “puts up” at the -Hotel Chatham, Hotel Binda, or the Anglo-Français, or the _pensions_ of -Mr. and Mrs. Powers, Madame Veuve Glatz, or Mrs. Van Pelt, he will -surely have no occasion to regret his choice of quarters. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. - -BY THEODORE CHILD. - - -In order to anticipate criticism, and to avoid disappointment, it may be -well to state at once that the art of cookery is in a terrible state of -decadence in Paris. The men of the present generation do not seem to -have the sentiment of the table; they know neither its varied resources -nor its infinite refinements; their palates are dull, and they are -content to eat rather than to dine. This decadence may be remarked both -in private and in public establishments. The _gourmet_ nowadays is a -rarity, and a man of thirty years of age who knows how to order a dinner -is a still greater rarity. One might discover many causes of this -decline of a delicate art. The conditions of contemporary life, the -hurry and unrest of modern Paris, doubtless do not conduce to the -appreciation of fine cooking; but the chief cause of the decline of -cookery in restaurants is the development of club life. The men of -fashion, leisure, or wealth, who formerly would have lived at the -restaurants, now dine at their clubs between two _séances_ at the -baccarat table, and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of -regular and fastidious customers which, by its readiness to criticise -and appreciate, obliged and encouraged the _chef_ to keep up the -traditions of the dainty palates of the past. At present the great -restaurants of Paris depend for support as much on foreigners and on -provincial people as on resident Parisians. The criticism of their -cookery is less constant and less rigorous; the bills of fare are less -varied than they were of old; the _amour propre_ of the cooks is less; -in a word, cookery has become nowadays more an industry than an art. -Even in the most famous Parisian restaurants the visitor must not expect -too much in the way either of viands or of wines. - -In certain things, again, it must be remembered that the Parisian market -is inferior to the markets of almost any town in England. The English -visitor generally speaks disparagingly of the French oyster, for -instance, doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor, and yet -I know many connoisseurs who have travelled and dined in many lands who -maintain that of all oysters the green Marennes (_Marennes vertes_) are -the most delicate and delicious. The lovers of comparisons will ask what -equivalents the French have for real turtle-soup, ox-tail, mulligatawny, -and pea-soup with a sprinkling of dried mint and sippets. Is it their -_bisque_ or _purée_ of crayfish, their _consommé de volaille_, their -_Saint Germain_, or green pea-soup, their _Parmentier_, or thick -potato-soup? But the traveller does not go to Paris to eat the food of -his native land, but rather to enjoy the particular food of the country. -Therefore, he must not expect to get fine salmon, or cod-fish, or -turbot, or even mackerel in Paris. The city is too far away from the sea -to have good salt-water fish. Salmon in Paris is dry and of poor flavor; -fresh cod-fish is rarely seen, and the habits of the restaurants render -it impossible to eat such salmon and turbot as there is in favorable -conditions. In a London restaurant a whole salmon or a whole turbot is -served hot like the joints; in a Paris restaurant, if you order boiled -salmon or turbot, the cook cuts a slice off a parboiled fish, puts the -slice in the pot, and boils it up for you. The result is unsatisfactory. -As a rule, I should say, in a Parisian restaurant eat your salmon and -your turbot cold, and prefer to both a red mullet (_rouget_), a sole, a -trout, or some fresh-water fish. A carefully prepared _matelotte -d’anguilles_, which is not precisely the same as stewed eels, and -_friture de Seine_, which need not be compared to whitebait, are both -dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure. - -The French are poor roasters; the roast beef and roast mutton in their -restaurants cannot for a moment be compared with the joints at Simpson’s -or Blanchard’s in London. Pies and puddings also are unknown to the -French, with the exception of _pâtés de foie gras_ and game pies. The -French, again, eat their game very fresh and less cooked than the -English. Generally, I think that the raw material of the Parisian -restaurant cuisine is inferior to that of English restaurants; on the -other hand, with the limitations referred to above, particularly as -regards roasting, the preparation of the dishes is superior, and in the -first-class restaurants unique. In the preparation and variety of -vegetables the French lead the world; in the fabrication of sauces they -are unsurpassed; in the serving and arrangement of a dinner they leave -little to be desired. - -But where can one go to dine in Paris? Which restaurants are the best, -and what are the prices, and what is one to order? The subject is -delicate and even dangerous, for although the critic has the right to -declare a book or picture bad, pernicious, or abominable, and to -pronounce its author to be unworthy of public attention, he dare not be -so outspoken about the wretchedest restaurant-keeper who is licensed to -poison his customers. I cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant -in the Palais Royal is not to be frequented, or that such and such a -gilded palace on the boulevard is an expensive delusion. I may, however, -assure you that as prices run in Paris, it is impossible for a -restaurateur to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat for -less than one and a half francs, and you may therefore conclude that the -restaurateurs who, for a fixed price, varying from one and a quarter to -three francs, offer you a complete dinner of five courses--soup, fish, -meat, two desserts, and half a bottle of wine--are probably in league -with the honorable apothecaries, whose aid their customers must often -need. - -To the traveller I say avoid _prix fixe_ dinners altogether, or, if you -will satisfy your curiosity, go to the Dîner Européen at the corner of -rue Lepelletier and the boulevard (price five francs), or to the table -d’hôte dinners of those vast caravansaries, the Hôtel du Louvre, the -Grand Hôtel, or the Hôtel Continental, where you dine for six, seven, or -eight francs, and see specimens of men, women and children of all the -countries of the world, and a profusion of linen, of silver plate, and -luxurious surroundings which, for a time, will perhaps distract your -attention from the insipidness of the roasts and the cheapness of the -sauces. - -The Bouillon Duval is an establishment which generally attracts the -attention of the traveller. In every quarter of Paris you see one or two -sober and respectable-looking façades painted dark red and lettered -simply, “Établissement Duval.” The Duval restaurants are wonderfully -organized, exceedingly cheap, and all the food sold in them is good and -genuine; these establishments now serve an average of three million -meals a year. The visitor may often find it convenient in his wanderings -about Paris to lunch in one of these Duval restaurants, if he is out of -the way of any other well-known restaurant. In all of them he will find -the food of the same quality, and the prices the same. As he enters, the -doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin, on which all that he eats and -drinks will be checked off, and which bulletin, when duly paid and -stamped, will serve him as a passport when he leaves the establishment. -The prices at the Duvals are very low; no dish costs more than one -franc, and most of them only fifty or sixty centimes; wine costs twenty -centimes a carafon, which is equivalent to one glassful, or one franc a -bottle and upwards; coffee and cognac costs forty centimes. The Duval -restaurant may be frequented with impunity, for nothing poisonous or -deleterious is sold there; the only disadvantage is that the portions -being very small, a hungry man, in order to satisfy his appetite, will -need so many portions, that his bill will mount up to as much as if he -had lunched or dined in an establishment of superior standing and -comfort. The Bouillon Duval stands in the same relation to the regular -restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the victoria; as -somebody has said, _c’est l’omnibus du ventre_. - -At length we come to the restaurants proper, the restaurants where one -dines in the true sense of the term. It is commonly believed that the -first-class restaurants in Paris are very dear. The Café Anglais, you -will be told, charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two, and fifteen -francs for a Rouen duck. Yes, but the beefsteak in question is a -Chateaubriand, a kernel of delicate meat cut in the heart of the -_filet_,--meat that is sold at two and a half francs a pound by the -butcher--and the duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer’s. -Good provisions in Paris are dear, and when one considers the heavy -expenses of the first-class restaurants, one cannot complain of their -charges. - -As regards perfection of cooking, the Café Anglais heads the list. Its -soups and sauces are exquisite; a sole “à l’Orly,” “Colbert,” -“normande,” “à la Join-ville,” or “au vin blanc,” may be eaten there in -perfection, and there is no restaurant in Paris where you can get a more -delicate “sauce diable” served to a grilled fowl. The two great tests of -a French kitchen are soups and sauces; if these are good, you may rest -assured that everything else will be good. - -In the same category with the Café Anglais, both as regards quality of -food and price, may be placed Durand’s, opposite the Madeleine, and -Adolphe and Pellé behind the Opéra. Next come the Maison d’Or, the Café -de la Paix, Bignon, and the Café de Paris, in the Avenue de l’Opéra, -Voisin in the rue Cambon, the old Véfour in the Palais Royal, the Père -Lathuile, in the Avenue de Clichy, and Fayot, opposite the Luxembourg -Palace. At all these restaurants you can dine delicately and drink as -good wines as are still to be had in France. Voisin and Foyot, -especially, have choice Burgundies of incomparable fineness. - -The third category of restaurants includes the Café Riche, which years -ago belonged to the first category; Brébant’s, now a general Bouillon, -at the corner of Boulevard Montmartre; Chevilliard, at the Rond-Point -des Champs Élysées; Laurent, and Ledoyen, in the Champs Élysées; -Champeaux, Place de la Bourse, where you dine in a perpetual winter -garden; Edouard, Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opéra Comique; Wepler, -Place Clichy; La Pérouse, on the Quai des Grands Augustins; Maire, at -the corner of the Boulevard de Strasbourg and the Boulevard St. Denis; -Marguery, next door to the Gymnase theatre; Perroncel, rue du Havre, -opposite the Gare Saint Lazare. In the Bois du Boulogne the restaurants -of Madrid, and of the Pavilion d’Armenonville are much frequented in the -summer by gay and smart people: the prices are about the same as at the -restaurants in town of the second category, that is to say, two can dine -there modestly with ordinary wine for a louis. - -I presume that the traveller comes to Paris to taste Parisian cooking, -and therefore I shall not recommend him to try the pseudo-English -cuisine of Weber or Lucas in the rue Royale and Place de la Madeleine, -or the Russian restaurant in the rue Marivaux, or the Hungarian -restaurant in the rue Rougemont. There remain then to be mentioned only -a few special establishments, such as the Pied de Mouton near the -Central Market, and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue Montorgueil. -There are several restaurants in Paris which make a specialty of -Bouillabaisse; but I do not recommend that dish in Paris, for the simple -reason that it is not the real article. In the Parisian Bouillabaisse -several of the fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear -transportation from the seaside. The traveller _gourmet_ will prefer to -wait until chance leads him to Marseilles, where the reigning chief of -the great dynasty of Roubion will serve him this savoury dish on a -balcony overlooking the blue Mediterranean. The café concerts in the -Champs Élysées are also much frequented by open air diners in the -summer. The spectacle is curious and amusing, but the _gourmet_ will -flee the promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre cuisine. - -To give precise details as to price is difficult. One may say generally -that at the Café Anglais two persons can dine delicately and well -without stint as to good wines or choice of dishes, for about two louis -(forty francs). On the other hand, the single man who is prepared to -spend not less than seven francs on his dinner may enter boldly any -restaurant in Paris, from the Café Anglais downward, and dine for that -sum on soup, one dish, cheese, and half a bottle of wine. For ten or -twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly almost anywhere, except -at the very tip-top houses, such as the Café Anglais, Durand’s, and -Adolphe and Pellé’s. By way of practical hints I will subjoin a few -observations. - -Beware of _hors d’œuvres_ and baskets of fruit, for their influence -on the total of your bill is alarming. If you are alone, resolutely -refuse radishes and butter, or rather leave them untouched on the table -before you; if you have invited a friend to dinner, offer him _hors -d’œuvres_ and hope that he will refuse; if you are with a lady, both -_hors d’œuvres_ and the basket of fruit are obligatory. Eve offered -fruit to Adam; the least we sons of Adam can do is to return the -politeness. - -The real _gourmet_ eats by candle-light, because, as Nestor Roqueplan -said, “rein n’est laid comme une sauce vue au soleil.” - -When you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the place that is offered -you. Choose your own table, and if it is breakfast-time secure a view -through the window and a view of the whole restaurant, and if possible -let the light strike on the table from your left hand. - -Preserve your freedom of will, but do not try to impose it. You are the -master, it is true, and yet to a certain extent you must obey. Consult, -therefore, with the _maître d’hôtel_, consider what he recommends, and -accept it if it be to your taste, for in the good restaurants there is -no question of passing off stale food. The _maître d’hôtel_ is flattered -when you ask his advice, and it is his business to be acquainted with -the special and daily resources of the larder. At places like the Café -Anglais the written _menu_ mentions only a few very ordinary dishes, and -you will inspire respect by not asking for the _carte_. At Bignon’s do -not trouble yourself about the _carte_; ask advice of the portly Louis, -and do not disdain his counsel. In cookery as in love much confidence is -necessary. - -Always ask for the wine list, _la carte des vins_, even if you end by -selecting _vin ordinaire_. The richest people in the land drink _vin -ordinaire_ with their dinner, and dilute it with simple water. The -traveller, therefore, need not fear to do likewise even in the most -gorgeous restaurants. Champagne is not much drunk by French _gourmets_, -and such champagnes as the Paris restaurants keep is sweeter than our -people generally like. To the connoisseur in champagne I would say, “Do -not drink champagne in France, for the best _crûs_ are to be found in -England and Russia.” If you desire fine red or white wines you will find -the nomenclature and the prices on the list; choose your Beaune, Pomard, -Volnay, Nuits, or Moulin à Vent, your Tavel, Tonnerre, or Chambertin -according to your taste and purse; consult confidentially with the -butler, and mind that you always address him as _sommelier_, and not -_garçon_. The _sommelier_ is inferior to the _garçon_ in the hierarchy -of table service, as you will see from his more humble and respectful -demeanor. - -Ask for _l’addition_, and not either _la carte_ or _la note_, which -savours of provincialism. Verify your change rapidly, and see that no -pieces lurk on the plate beneath the bill. Be liberal towards the -waiter, for it is the _pourboire_ that secures you a smile when you -arrive and a smile when you leave, a helping hand when you are -struggling into your overcoat, obliging and ready service, and the -appearance, nay, even the reality of friendship. In the three categories -of restaurants mentioned above do not give the waiter less than fifty -centimes, however modest your bill, and the more delicate and -satisfactory your dinner, the more liberal let your _pourboire_ be, -ranging from one franc up to five, calculated generally at the rate of -five per cent. on the total of your bill. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE ANGLO-AMERICAN BANKING CO. - - -When Americans have the facilities to execute a good idea they always -possess the energy and the boldness to execute it in a fitting way. Thus -instead of going into small quarters in an out of the way location, the -Anglo-American Banking Company of Paris selected a large and imposing -building, fronting on two broad streets. Then with a liberal outlay of -money they proceeded to fit up the different floors in luxurious style. -The site, on the corner of Chaussée d’Antin and Rue Meyerbeer, half a -block from the Grand Opéera, a step from the Grand Hotel, and near some -of the leading boulevards, is at once choice, central and accessible. - -The ground floor of the building, where money is exchanged and where -letters of credit are cashed, is roomy and has a solid and business-like -appearance, while the upper floors are furnished with an eye to -convenience, comfort and beauty. It is here, on this second floor, where -there are tastefully furnished rooms for ladies, where desks are at hand -for clients to conduct their correspondence, and where the leading -American, English and French papers are kept on file in charge of a -prompt-serving and careful attendant. - -The bank is now established on a firm basis; it has the confidence of -the French people, and it promises to become an “institution” in Paris. -It is convenient to keep a small account at the bank, drawing checks -against it in making purchases in Paris. But the house can be used for -any and every legitimate banking purpose, and Americans find it very -useful as a place where their letters may be addressed, where their -letters of credit are cashed and where they may meet friends. It has -some of the features of a club, and although only established a few -years is now quite a popular rendezvous for Americans. The -Anglo-American bank itself issues letters of credit payable all over the -world. - -The officers of the American Banking Company are S. J. Gorman, of New -York, president; J. L. Carr, vice-president; J. H. Hobson, of New York, -general manager; Edmond Huerstel, secretary. Cable address, Anabaco, -Paris. - - - - -AU BON MARCHÉ. - - -Everybody has heard of, and all who have been to Paris have visited Au -Bon Marché, world-renowned of dry goods establishments. This great -emporium was practically founded by Jacques-Aristide Boucicaut, who, -beginning life in a small way in the dry goods business, became partner, -and finally sole owner of the Bon Marché. Once above the rank of -ordinary employee, he undertook to improve the moral and material -condition of his fellow workmen. He inaugurated free classes in the arts -and sciences, language, music, etc., and established a provident fund -for long service in the establishment, supplied his employees with free -medical attendance, and in many other forms, in addition to large -outside charities and good works, evidenced more than enough of the -spirit to entitle him to the appellation of philanthropist. At his death -in 1877, the annual returns from his business exceeded sixteen millions -of dollars. After his death his good works were continued by his widow, -who, with an enormous fortune at her command, dispensed it in extended -and elaborate charities, establishing the system of sharing of profits -among her employees, creating a retiring pension fund, erecting and -maintaining hospitals, and at her death disposing of millions of francs -to churches, colleges, and other public institutions. - -Mme. Boucicaut died ten years after her husband, but the Bon Marché -still continues under the original plan and system of its founder. There -are three thousand six hundred employees, and all the unmarried -employees of the establishment board on the premises. For the proper -conduct of such a business the system of course must be perfect, near as -may be. Rules and regulations are set forth and strictly adhered to. It -is expressly provided that the food shall be wholesome and abundant. A -doctor is attached to the establishment who may be consulted by the -employees free of charge. Any employee called for military service can, -at its expiration, resume his situation. No fines are inflicted under -any circumstances. - -The Bon Marché forwards to any part of the globe all goods bought at the -establishment, and to nearly all the countries of Europe, including -Great Britain, it will forward free of charge for carriage any purchase -to the amount of twenty-five francs (five dollars). A pretty souvenir -volume is issued by the Bon Marché. It contains a useful indicator map -of Paris, and a deal of interesting information about the great -metropolis. It may be obtained free upon application by postal card. -Address simply, Au Bon Marché, Paris. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration: THE DE SOTO.] SAVANNAH, GEORGIA. - - -The city of Savannah, with its balmy air, its far famed Bonaventure -Cemetery, its pretty parks, broad streets and many natural attractions -(acknowledged to be one of the most attractive Southern cities), was -long avoided by many pleasure tourists, because it had no hotel worthy -of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and doing a business of -over one hundred and thirty millions of dollars annually. - -Savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world--New Orleans excepted. -Savannah has deep water and good docks. Sometimes as many as thirty -English ships are in this port at the same time. They take cotton direct -to foreign ports. Savannah is easily approached from North and South: -presently it is to have communication with the west--direct from Kansas -City. When these and other contemplated improvements are made, Savannah -expects to experience an era of great prosperity. It is predicted that -the city will double its population in the next ten years. - -Anyone who doubts that Savannah is steadily moving forward in prosperity -has only to take a glimpse at the tax returns made to the city treasurer -for 1891, to have the doubt quickly dispelled. In 1890, the returns of -personal property footed up $9,948,048, and in 1891 they were -considerably over $10,000,000, the increase being about $500,000. The -banks alone in ’91 made returns of $506,000 in excess of 1890. This -shows that there is a great demand for banking institutions. Real estate -has increased $1,300,000. - -Such being the present condition and future prospects of Savannah, it -was time that some movement were made for the better entertainment of -visitors, so at last the citizens put their heads together and concluded -that no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions, the climax of -success is only capped by railway facilities and first class hotels. - -Mr. H. B. Plant, head of the Plant System, furnished the railway -facilities, and now the citizens of Savannah have supplied the hotel. -They formed a stock company, subscribed a million of dollars and opened -the De Soto, two years ago, which proved to be exteriorly one of the -handsomest houses in this country, if not in the world, and interiorly -one of the best appointed--in keeping with the American idea. - -Savannah never had a habit of going across the seas for hotel names. It -boasts of no Victoria, no Buckingham, no Imperial, but it has a Screven, -named after a prominent Georgia family; a Pulaski, named for a military -hero, and now a De Soto, in honor of the discoverer of the Mississippi -river. Savannah is nothing if not patriotic. It has a Monterey square, a -Forsyth park, and among its monuments are the noble columns erected to -perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes--Jasper, Green and -Pulaski. - -The De Soto cost a round million of dollars. It occupies, but does not -literally “cover, an entire block of ground,” as the writer of the -little descriptive pamphlet has it. The house is built in the form of a -hollow square, with entrances on three sides. This plan of construction -was adopted to leave a large open court in the centre, thus securing an -ample supply of light and air; and the plan has succeeded to perfection. - -The dining-room, which seats nearly four hundred guests, has air and -light its full length, on both sides. Some of the bedroom doors, instead -of wooden panels, have panels of ground glass to let light into the -halls. The bedroom in which these lines are written is fifteen feet -square, not counting a deep recess for the windows, of which there are -two, each measuring seven feet six by four feet six. There is also a -transom over the door. To such an extent has this love of light been -carried that even the elevator, instead of being built with solid sides, -has sides of strong, open wire work, through which light and air stream -freely. - -The interior, while being on a broad, liberal, yes, a luxurious scale, -has no striking novelties. It is modelled after the style of the large -modern American hotels of the first-class. There is a large and splendid -“office” with reading-room, smoking-room, writing-room, and small -parlors branching off; there are open fires and all the etceteras of -convenience and luxury; the whole ground floor is marble-tiled, the -corridors are ten feet wide and richly carpeted; they lead on each side -to an inviting veranda; there is pure water from an artesian well and -the sanitary arrangements are said to be scientifically correct. - -The parlor, with its onyx tables, its gold-framed chairs, delicate -carpets, its richly-embossed furniture covering, its mirrors, electric -lights and the light-colored walls minus anything that suggests a work -of art, is, to my mind, rather cold and stiff. I prefer the home-like -drawing-room of the Imperial Hotel in Aberdeen, Scotland, with its -profusion of fresh flowers, its cabinets and pretty things, or say, the -drawing-room of the Langham Hotel, London, rich and pleasing in subdued, -dark colors; but the De Soto is an American hotel, it is kept after the -American methods, and without doubt the parlor suits to perfection those -for whom it is furnished--then why should anybody criticise its -decorations? - -But the exterior with its novel and beautiful construction, a -combination of architectural styles forming a very pleasing whole, -commands instant admiration. There are towers, turrets, arched -entrances, Queen Anne windows, fountains and a number of overhanging -red-tiled roofs through which waterspouts project in picturesque -fashion. The walls are of brick in two different colors with terra cotta -trimmings, railings and ornaments of black iron. All of these materials -and colors are used with skill and the very best taste, making an -artistic combination which is remarkably pleasing. Then the graceful -palm trees here and there give the surroundings a tropical appearance -and serve to add to the beautiful picture. - -The site of the De Soto was well chosen. All of the four streets on -which it is built being wide, ample opportunity is afforded to admire -from a distance its lines of beauty. Its main front is on a very wide -street, Liberty street, probably not quite so broad as Unter den Linden -in Berlin, nor has it the grand palaces of that renowned German street; -but Liberty street is neat, clean and kept in good order, which is more -than can be said of Unter den Linden. The sidewalks are of smooth-faced -red brick; between them and the roadway on either side there is a row of -trees. There is another row of trees, also a car track, in the middle of -the street, and on either side of the track again there is an asphalt -drive for carriages. There is abundant space, and although it lacks the -solid buildings of larger cities, the street itself is not lacking in -attractions. - -Within five minutes’ walk of the house is Forsyth park, with its acres -of forest trees, and plenty of japonicas and roses in full bloom at this -writing, January 26. In the centre of this park there is a handsome -fountain, modeled after the grand fountain in the Place de la Concorde, -Paris. It is a mistake and a pity to half hide it behind japonica trees -and rose bushes, from six to eight feet high. - -It is very enjoyable to sit in any of Savannah’s pretty parks these -days, say between noon and four o’clock. There is no danger of taking -nor of feeling cold. At night and in the early morn the air is cool (36 -to 42 degrees), but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy--anywhere from -56 to 76 degrees. It is an old habit of mine to carry a thermometer in -my satchel, so I am not dependent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay -for my facts and figures concerning the temperature. Frost is rarely -seen in Savannah, and they never get a sight of snow unless some of the -“beautiful” article should remain on the car roofs of trains coming from -the North. - -The De Soto can accommodate four hundred guests, and besides, the -dining-room and the smaller “early breakfast-room” on the main floor, -there is a banqueting hall on the first floor in which two hundred -guests can sit down comfortably. A novel feature for a hotel is a -gymnasium, on the sixth floor, and above this, at the very summit, there -is a large “Solarium,” fitted up with chairs, tables and lounges. Here -you can sit, bask in the sun, and, as Walt Whitman says, “loaf and -invite your soul.” In this elevated position you get a magnificent view -of Savannah and the surrounding country--as far east as the Tybee coast, -twenty miles distant. - -There are in all three hundred and thirty-eight bedrooms, forty parlors -and sixty bath-rooms in the house, affording many choice suites for -families. There are no dark rooms nor inner rooms; all have a street -view, a park view, or look out upon the court-yard. Every room has a -wardrobe built in the wall, and this is covered by a tasteful portière. -All the carpets and draperies, by the way, came from W. & J. Sloane, and -the electroliers and gasoliers were supplied by Archer, Pancoast & Co., -both leading New York houses in their respective branches. - -A band of twelve pieces (Cobb’s Savannah Band) performs excellent music -in an alcove near the dining-room during the luncheon and dinner hours. - -The house has been leased for fifteen years by Watson & Powers, who have -had long experience in Charleston and other hotels. They kept the -Pulaski House here, as a colored driver told me in answer to a question, -“a right smart time,” which still leaves the number of years rather -indefinite. The same gentleman and brother, who drive carriages for the -house, and who drove me through Bonaventure Cemetery, said that the fire -of two years ago, which burned for two days, destroyed the “‘Sonic -Hall.” He also volunteered this piece of intelligence: “Der Pulaski -House is makin’ a very big condition,” which I translated to mean -addition. My esteemed friend, Mr. Marcus Wight and his charming wife, of -Lowell, Mass., were our travelling companions for that day, and their -delightful company enhanced the interest and the enjoyment of the drive. - -If you desire to see a hotel which contains all the latest and best -American ideas, and, unlike the hotels of Europe, combines them into a -perfect system, telegraph for rooms to the De Soto. It is advisable to -take it in, as a resting place, between New York and Florida, or vice -versa. - - * * * * * - -P. S.--This is called a cold winter in Savannah, yet at six A.M., -Thursday, January 29, the thermometer marked sixty degrees. - - - - -THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. - - -Time, eleven A.M., February 1.--Your correspondent is seated at his -bedroom window; there are two large windows in the room, and both are -wide open. The apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot -ceiling; it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature in it is -seventy-two degrees. This is not said from hearsay, nor is the record -taken from a hotel thermometer, which may be unreliable, but from a -portable thermometer of my own. - -WHEN THE PLACE WAS SETTLED.--People ask, “How old is Thomasville: when -was it first settled?” The writer can answer this question because he -had the good fortune to be presented to no less a personage than Mrs. M. -A. Bower, a most charming woman to look at and to converse with, who is -proud of her fifty-six years, but whom you would judge to be at least -ten years younger. Mrs. Bower was the first white child born in -Thomasville, and in the first real house erected in the place. It stood -on the present site of the Mitchell House. Mrs. Bower is the daughter of -Colonel and Mrs. Edward Remington who came here from Pawtuxet, R. I., in -the year 1828. Set it down for a fact then that Thomasville is three -score years old. - -LOCATION.--Thomasville, the capital of Thomas county (this is not from a -gazetteer, please believe), stands three hundred and thirty feet above -sea level, being on the highest ground between Macon and the Gulf of -Mexico, in the Uplands of Georgia. It is two hundred miles from the -Atlantic, sixty miles from the Gulf of Mexico as the bird flies, twelve -miles from the Florida State line, a thirty-three-mile drive from -Tallahassee, and is reached from Jacksonville at the South or from -Savannah coming from the North in a few hours by way of Waycross or -Jesup, two places not particularly attractive to the tourist but quite -useful as way stations, affording junctions for several lines of -railroad. - -HEALTH AND PLEASURE.--Thomasville was at one time simply a health -resort: people with consumption or other lung or throat diseases came -here for relief and they found it. They, the sickly people, still come -to get well; but beside being a health resort it is now also a place for -pleasure. Fashion has set its seal on Thomasville. New York and Boston -are well represented among the visitors, but the West especially favors -Thomasville, and St. Paul, for its size, sends more people probably than -any other city. A number of St. Paul citizens have cottages here and -have set up fine establishments. Ladies dress for the morning ride or -drive; they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for the evening -dance. Ladies at the hotels exchange visits with the cottagers, also -with the townspeople, the permanent residents giving strangers a warm, -Southern welcome. - -FEATURES OF THE TOWN.--To-day Thomasville has churches of all -denominations (including a Jewish place of worship), two hotels far -superior to any between Baltimore and Jacksonville, unless exception be -made of the new Oglethorpe at Brunswick; a number of smaller hotels, -numerous boarding houses, two daily newspapers, several good private -schools, a flourishing college for girls and one for the other sex, a -railway direct to the town--and five thousand inhabitants. The boys’ -college is a branch of the State University and has at present two -hundred and fifty pupils. The other institution, called “Young’s Female -College,” was endowed by a Georgian, and the charge for tuition is so -low as to be nominal, ten dollars per year to each pupil. So the -religiously inclined have ample opportunity to worship at their -particular shrine, and the educational advantages of Thomasville are -good. - -NATURE’S GIFTS.--The reputation of this place was gained by its dry and -balmy atmosphere, its even temperature, its health-giving pine forests -and by its freedom from cold or sudden changes. The United States Signal -Service report shows that the average winter temperature is about -fifty-five degrees, and the average temperature last July, the hottest -month here, was eighty-two degrees. While the winter days are warm the -mornings and nights are pleasantly cool, and it never snows here. Once -during the past fourteen years they did have a flurry of snow. It -happened on a Sunday and the churches remained empty; so interested were -the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they neglected the church and -all took to snowballing. You need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor -wear, except, perhaps, for an evening drive, or for rainy days; but an -umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the sun is -indispensable. I am speaking of needing such an article at the present -time, February 1. - -THE PINEY WOODS OAK.--To those coming from the North the sight of the -trees in full leaf is as agreeable as it is strange. The pine, live-oak, -hemlock and holly all have their branches thickly covered. There is a -gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the Piney Woods Hotel whose -spreading branches measure sixty feet across. There is still a larger -one in the town, which people travel miles to see. It spreads ninety -feet across. But beauty does not always consist in bigness. The Piney -Woods oak is both beautiful and big, but its symmetrical beauty is its -main attraction. Is it too warm on the hotel porch? Are the sun’s rays -too fierce? Cross over the road, fifty yards distant, and seek a -comfortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of the pines, in -what is popularly termed “Yankee Paradise,” but known more correctly as -Paradise Park. It includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives. -There is no ice to make your step unsteady, but the needles of the pines -render the paths rather slippery. - -WHEN TO COME.--You can pick violets in the open air and pluck in the -fields a small bouquet of daisies at this writing, but to see -Thomasville at its best, I am told that you must come a little later -than this, when the grass is all green. You can then pluck wild roses to -your heart’s content. Then the pear orchards will be in full bloom, and -the dogwood blossoms are a sight to behold. I have been here only three -days and have seen no rain, but the soil is sandy and one can readily -believe what enthusiasts say, that an hour or two after a long and heavy -rain walking is again pleasant, the rain having percolated through the -ground, leaving the surface perfectly dry, if not hard. And there is -seemingly no end of lovely walks. You get out of the town in five -minutes, and if you are bent on pedestrian exercise, and have an eye for -beautiful scenes, turn your steps in any direction and you will make no -mistake. - -WHAT TO BRING.--If the ladies of your party are equestriennes, by all -means let them bring their riding habits with them: everybody rides. -Driving, too, is largely indulged in, the roads being hard, smooth and -unusually wide. They extend for miles and miles through the pine woods, -and their picturesque beauty you will please imagine; it is not easy to -describe it without using more adjectives than I have at my command en -route. To sportsmen let me say, do not come without your dog and gun or -you will never forget nor forgive the error. Wild turkeys abound, there -are snipe in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice. You see them on -the road while driving, and the crack of the rifle is heard almost -constantly. Quail on toast is a regular dish at the hotels at least once -a day. - -THE NEGRO AND HIS WORKS.--Without desiring to attack political problems, -to raise dead issues or to discuss questions that have long since been -answered, one cannot resist the temptation to obtain information on the -result of the emancipation proclamation, for although it is over a -quarter of a century old the subject yet has great interest for this -country, and for other countries also, for that matter. Here is a -statement of facts and figures in condensed, nutshell form upon which -chapters and books might be written--the colored population of Georgia -pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve millions of dollars, the -realty being estimated at about one half its actual value, and their -personal property is estimated at about six millions of dollars. There -are instances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves to their -former owners, some of the blacks still serving their white masters. -Among the servants of Mrs. M. A. Bower, proprietor of the Piney Woods -Hotel, are two who formerly served this same “master,” one of them being -the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel. Negroes say that the whites and -work do not agree. Possibly not; they are unaccustomed to labor hard in -this section, and on the other hand whites claim that the colored are by -nature more fitted for work in such a climate. Be that as it may, it is -certain that the colored people of the South are not over fond of work, -either: you cannot depend upon their working regularly. So soon as they -can put enough by to keep them in cracked wheat or hominy and a little -tobacco the colored laborers are likely to throw up a job, and are not -over particular if they occasionally leave an employer in the lurch. If -you are a new settler and are building a house, for instance, they will -have no compunction about leaving you some fine morning, or some wet -afternoon, before your house is roofed in. Of clothing for warmth they -need little, and the weather never being severe their log cabins or pine -huts need not be very tight: if they shed the rain that is all that is -necessary for them. - -THE CHAIN GANG.--The jail at Thomasville was not near large enough until -a new plan of punishment was adopted. The colored roughs committed small -offences for the very purpose of getting into prison; in that way -obtaining food and shelter, and at the same time “doin’ nuffin.” Not so -now: the town council met and adopted the resolution that prisoners -should be made to work, and that is how the “chain gang” came into -existence. You will see gangs of colored men repairing the roads and -engaged in other public works on the highway. They wear a striped -uniform after the prevailing fashion at our State prisons. The two legs -of each man are held close enough together by iron chains to prevent the -action of running, but yet the chains afford him sufficient freedom to -move about and make himself useful with pick and shovel. It is a novel -sight for a stranger to meet one of these gangs on the road, and the -clank of the locked iron links has a strange and weird sound. To their -credit be it said, the men are ashamed of their public disgrace, and the -Thomasville prison is now large enough to hold all the applicants for -admission. Making the negro work and making him a public show have had -good effect. Such a plan is of course not feasible for cities, but it -might be adopted with a degree of success in thinly populated districts -of Northern States. Tramps give Thomasville a wide berth. If one of the -genus unwittingly wanders that way he is given his choice: he must leave -at once or join the chain gang and work for thirty days. - -UPLAND PRODUCTS.--Cotton is still king in the South, and Georgia -produces its full share, but Thomas county is also noted for oats. More -oats are produced in Thomas county than in any other county in the -United States. This I have from one of the prominent citizens of the -town, whose information is as extensive as the manner of imparting his -knowledge is agreeable. If you come to Thomasville try to meet Dr. -Bower. He practices his profession no longer, being interested in many -large enterprises. He can give you more interesting information -concerning these parts than probably any other person hereabouts. But -you must allow a little for Dr. Bower’s enthusiasm. He is apt to look at -Thomasville and Thomas county through a rose-colored glass. From Dr. -Bower your correspondent learned, among other things, that the Le Conte -pear, which grows in such profusion here and in Florida, was brought to -this country from China about fifty years ago, and propagated by -Commodore Le Conte, a Georgian of French descent. It does not equal the -Bartlett in flavor, but its skin is tougher, and it bears transportation -better. You may see orchards containing thousands of trees, and the -trees average a production of twelve to fifteen bushels. Some trees are -said to yield as many as thirty-five bushels. They boast here of the -largest pear orchard in the world--two hundred and twenty-five acres. -Last year twenty-five thousand crates of pears were shipped from -Thomasville to cities in the North and West. Some found their way to the -New England summer resorts, and were received with favor. Still, from -all I can learn, while the North has its Bartlett, it need not envy the -South its Le Conte. - -THE POOR KINE.--It is conceded that they raise here in abundance cotton, -oats and pears, and that pine trees, roses, magnolias, quail, figs, and -other good things grow in profusion, but, on the other hand, the live -stock is very poor indeed and meats must come all the way from New York -if people demand meat that is good and nutritious. That is where all the -meat comes from which is consumed at the hotels. It almost makes your -heart ache to see the poor, weak oxen that are forced to work, and the -thin, bony cows that must yield their milk. It may be different in -summer time, when the grass is rich, but the cattle seem to be very -poorly fed now, or not fed at all. They are allowed to roam freely about -the streets and byways of the town, and pick up, by day or night, what -they can find. - -THE WINN FARM.--An exception to this rule must be made in favor of Winn -Farm, a tract of eighteen hundred acres, owned by F. J. Winn, several -hundred acres of which are under cultivation. The stock there looks -better than the animals you see in Thomasville proper, and for which you -have nothing but sympathy. They make good wine, too, at Winn Farm, and -it is offered in hospitable quantities from the hand of an attractive, -cultivated woman, the presiding genius of the place, Mrs. F. J. Winn. -The luscious, juicy oranges which are put on the tables of the Piney -Woods Hotel in such liberal measure, come from the grove on Indian -River, Florida, owned and cultivated by Dr. Bower. The grove contains -four or five thousand orange trees in bearing. - -THE HOTELS.--There is a standing joke about certain Southern cities -where there are only two hotels, that, whichever one you select, you -will wish that you had chosen the other. Although the hotels south of -the line have greatly improved of late years, the old joke will still -apply in certain towns and cities. Not so, however, at Thomasville. -There are only two hotels here known to fame, and you will make no -mistake if you select either. It is a matter of surprise to find two -such hotels in such a comparatively small town. The Mitchell House and -the Piney Woods Hotel (I take them alphabetically) are both large, new, -handsomely furnished and perfectly appointed houses, containing all the -modern improvements, and erected with strict regard for the laws of -sanitation. The Mitchell House is an imposing solid brick structure, -four stories high, two hundred feet square, with a cultivated park of -two acres sweeping before its front piazza. This little park is -reserved for the hotel guests and their friends. - -The Piney Woods Hotel is within gun-shot distance of the Mitchell House, -on the same street, with a front measuring three hundred and fifty feet, -the other side overlooking Paradise Park, of which I have already -spoken. The Piney Woods stands, as it were, and as its name might -indicate, on the very edge of the pine forests, and yet it is only a -five minutes’ walk from the post-office and a ten minutes’ drive from -the depot. The pamphlet issued by the proprietor tells you that “the -Piney Woods is modelled similar to the Grand Union Hotel, at Saratoga -Springs,” but this is a mistake of the compiler of the work, and is no -compliment at all to the house under consideration--which is far more -pleasing to the eye, exteriorly, than the Grand Union at Saratoga. The -Piney Woods is built after plans of J. A. Woods, a New York architect, -who planned the new Grand Hotel _in the Catskill Mountains_, and with -its wide and lofty verandas, its projecting towers, its pretty corners -here and there, is a facsimile on a somewhat smaller scale of that -favorite and beautiful house. Any one who has seen the hotel on the line -of the Ulster and Delaware Railway, can picture to himself the Piney -Woods Hotel at Thomasville. The late Captain Gillette, who kept the -Mountain Hotel, kept this one also for years. William E. Davies is now -the manager of the Piney Woods. - -Each hotel, the Mitchell House and the Piney Woods, will accommodate -nearly three hundred guests. - -THE BEST ROUTE.--The Atlantic Coast Line, called “the short route to -Florida,” is by all odds the best way to reach Thomasville from the -Eastern States and from New York. The vestibule train, “the Florida -special” of the Pennsylvania Railroad, which traverses this route, is -the quickest and most luxurious train, with its dining-room car, library -car, etc., but this only leaves New York on certain days of the week, -and you must apply for seats a long time ahead, and then you may not get -them. The ordinary trains, with Pullman sleepers, are good enough for -the majority of travellers, and they afford people opportunity to stop -over and see the cities en route--Washington, Richmond, Wilmington, N. -C., Charleston and Savannah. Or, if you prefer, you may come direct from -New York, in about thirty-two hours, to Waycross, Ga., where there is -connection for Thomasville, distant four hours. But if you “stop over,” -you must be prepared to travel in ordinary coaches between the Southern -cities; parlor cars are not attached to local trains. It would help -Thomasville materially if the Savannah, Western and Florida Road -(everybody in this section calls it “the S. F. & W.”) were to run a -quick train with a parlor car to meet the Florida special. The return -would not be great at first, but it would prove profitable to the road -ultimately. Washington, D. C., seems to be especially favored: the -Atlantic Coast Line runs a Pullman buffet sleeping car for Washington -passengers direct to Thomasville. Strangers and tourists make it a point -to go to the stations to see the Pennsylvania vestibule train at -different points of the road, and the colored folk stand and stare at -the beautiful appointments with eyes and mouth wide open. “Only God’s -people,” remarked one surprised darkey, “can ride in them carriages.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. - - -If you tell people in New York that you are “going to Brunswick for the -winter,” they will probably look at you with surprise; some will say, -“Do you mean New Brunswick?” having in mind New Brunswick, N.J.; while -others will say, “Brunswick; where is Brunswick, in what State? I never -heard of it.” Well, new as Brunswick may appear to the majority, it is -an old place, having been settled and laid out in the year 1763. - -WHERE IS BRUNSWICK?--Brunswick is in the Southeastern part of Georgia, -not far from the Florida border, sixty miles below Savannah, seventy -miles north of Jacksonville. The city covers an area of two miles -square, and is handsomely laid out, the whole adorned by some of the -most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be found in the South. -It is situated on a small peninsula jutting out into the sea, surrounded -on three sides by salt water, but protected from the severity of the -ocean winds by outlying islands. Brunswick is only eight miles from the -sea and there are no fresh water streams or swamps within many miles to -breed malaria, the air being constantly renewed and vivified by the -health-bearing breezes of the ocean, that render it, as official -statistics show, one of the healthiest cities in the Union. - -Among its natural advantages are its climate, uniform and mild in -winter, its geographical position being but little north of St. -Augustine, ice being seldom seen, and snow rarely, if ever; its forests -of pine, palm and moss-covered oak, its healthy soil, pure water, -semi-tropical foliage and plants, the magnificent drives, and last, but -by no means least, its superior water facilities, having one of the -finest harbors in the South Atlantic. As to the trees: I have stood -under the far-famed old oaks of England, I have seen the moss-covered -trees of Bonaventure, of which all Savannah proudly boasts, and admired -the great oak at Thomasville, whose branches measure ninety feet across; -but there is an oak here which belittles them all for age, strength and -size. Under the “Lovers’ Oak” at Brunswick it is said that one hundred -teams can find shelter from the sun’s rays. It is called Lovers’ Oak -because a marriage was once performed under it, several hundred -witnesses being present at the open air ceremony. - -JEKYL AND OTHER ISLANDS.--There are a number of beautiful islands near -here which are fertile almost beyond one’s imagination. Everybody has -heard of Jekyl Island, and all true sportsmen know it. It is famous as -the location of one of the finest club-houses in the country, the island -being a paradise for the sportsman and fisherman. It is literally full -of game; deer, wild turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors -are sure of good sport. Being a natural game preserve, upon which the -general public have not been permitted to hunt, the increase has been -rapid and the supply practically inexhaustible. The club-house, seen -from the river, is a noble structure. Then there is St. Simon’s Island, -which lies off the coast at a distance of seven miles from Brunswick, -and is noted for the wonderful fertility of its soil. It excels -especially in fruits--oranges, peaches, figs, bananas, olives, lemons, -limes and pecans, growing in great profusion. The climate is almost -perfection. Ice is seldom seen, and snow has been seen here but once -within the present century, - -A DOCTOR’S CERTIFICATE.--Brunswick’s peninsular location, almost -surrounded by salt water, with immense pine forests on the north, -extending hundreds of miles into the interior, conduces to a state of -healthfulness excelled by no other place of its population in the whole -South. Dr. H. Buford, Health Officer of the City of Brunswick, makes the -following official statement: “The result of my observation and -experience as a practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent -thereto, during a residence of seven years, proves that our mortuary -statistics show a minimum death rate--Poughkeepsie, N. Y., not excepted. -During an active practice of seven years I cannot record a single case -of scarlet fever or diphtheria. Hay fever and asthma are unknown here.” - -A MISTAKE OF CONGRESS.--Brunswick is a century and a quarter old, but it -went along lazily and slowly, like many other Southern towns and -villages, and the war somewhat retarded its progress. Nor was it helped -by a committee from Congress which, some years after the war, took a -cruise along the Atlantic coast to examine the facilities of our -seaports. Congress has not earned its peculiar reputation without -deserving it. This committee may have included members who were learned -in the law, or who knew how to hoe potatoes, but of harbor advantages -and the requirements of ships they must have been innocently ignorant. -They reported that “the harbor of Brunswick was twelve feet deep.” This -went abroad and ships went elsewhere. How near to the truth came this -report may be judged by one instance. On Friday, February 3, 1888, the -English steamer, the Port Augusta, cleared this port drawing twenty feet -of water and carrying 6,559 bales of cotton, weighing over three -millions of pounds and valued at $300,000. It was the largest cargo ever -cleared from a South Atlantic port, and ships drawing _twenty-four feet -of water_ enter and leave here without the slightest danger of touching -bottom. So much for the congressional report. That the shipping -facilities of Brunswick are becoming known may be judged also from the -following facts and figures: During the whole month of February, 1887, -the exports of cotton, naval stores and lumber amounted to $78,000 -while for only the _first five days_ of Feb., 1888, the exports amounted -to over $300,000. These figures are given on official authority from the -collector of the port. Are more significant statements needed to show -the marvellous advance and improvement of this place? Here they are--the -exports in the year 1886 amounted to less than a million dollars; in -1887 they footed up over two and a quarter millions. The imports of 1886 -were less than $5,000, the imports of 1887, $48,000. - -A CITY BY THE SEA.--How has all this seeming prosperity and increase of -business on the water affected the land? Well, in 1884 the population of -Brunswick was 3,000, four years later it was 8,000; the increase of -taxable property was thirty-three per cent, greater in ’87 than ’86; the -comptroller of the State says that this county (Glynn) has made for the -last twelve months a larger pro rata increase than any other county in -the State of Georgia, for eight years ago there was not a brick building -in the place; now there are blocks and blocks of brick stores and fine -dwellings; increase in the value of the land is almost fabulous, and -there is a new brick hotel here, “the Oglethorpe,” which cost with -furniture, $160,000, the equal of which for site and style cannot be -found between Washington, D.C., and St. Augustine, Fla. - -THE OGLETHORPE.--The new hotel is an evidence of and in keeping with the -new order of things. The location of the building is choice--on the -highest ground in Brunswick, affording fine views and rare sanitary -facilities. The house is not merely considered to be, but is fire-proof. -So perfect is the protection against fire that the company insuring the -property reduced the usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the -character of the building and the excellence of the fire system adopted. -The Oglethorpe stands on the principal street, near the railway depot -and steamboat wharf, on a plot of ground about three hundred feet -square, the main building having three stories and being two hundred and -sixty-seven feet long, with wings running back one hundred and forty -feet. It is the largest building in the place, and with its graceful -round brick towers at each corner, and its turrets and spires jutting -through the roof, here and there, it is the most prominent object you -see as you approach Brunswick from any direction, either by land or -water. The Oglethorpe, being new, is the latest exponent of all that is -best and most approved in modern hotel building, and of course has all -the “modern improvements.” The drawing-room is a grand apartment, -reminding you of the parlor of the United States at Saratoga; the -dining-room is lighted from three sides, and seats three hundred -persons; the main floor, the entrance, office and lower hall are tiled -with Georgia marble in beautiful colors, and there is a covered porch -for promenading which reaches up to the second story. It is two hundred -and forty feet long, and from twenty to twenty-five feet wide. - -The bedrooms of the Oglethorpe are larger, as a rule, than those of most -hotels. Even the “small rooms” connecting with the suites are twenty -feet long by eleven wide, and have two windows, each seven feet high by -three feet wide. The “tower” rooms, with their open fire-places, carved -wooden mantels, tiled hearths, rich Moquette carpets, portières of -velours, and lace curtains on brass poles are as handsome as the -bedrooms of any other hotel that the writer has seen, and if the walls -and ceilings were artistically decorated and frescoed, the “tower” rooms -of the Oglethorpe probably might compare with those palatial bedrooms of -the Hotel Métropole in London. A peculiarity of the Oglethorpe is that -there are no back rooms; each one faces the street or overlooks the bay, -but a few hundred feet distant. Between the bay and the house the -grounds of the hotel are attractively laid out. As to the table and -general management of the Oglethorpe, it is only necessary to say that -the manager is Warren Leland, Jr., a member of the celebrated Leland -family--a name long associated with some of the leading hotels in the -United States. - -EN ROUTE TO AND FROM FLORIDA.--Brunswick is reached by rail from the -North by the Atlantic Coast Line and the Savannah, Florida and Western -Railroad by way of Savannah and Waycross, Ga., and from Jacksonville, -Florida, by railway to Fernandina in one hour, and thence by steamboat -in four hours. The water route is very pleasant. The boats, if not -splendid specimens of naval architecture, are at least staunch and -comfortable. You take an inside route, hug the shore, pass many -beautiful islands and get glimpses of most picturesque scenes. - -Tourists contemplating a visit to Florida for health or pleasure do well -to break the journey at Waycross or Jessup, visit Brunswick and see the -charming country thereabouts. The run is made from Waycross to Brunswick -in three hours and ten minutes. - -The route Southward is from New York to Quantico, Va., over the -Pennsylvania tracks; from Richmond to Charleston via Atlantic Coast -Line; from Waycross to Brunswick by the Plant system. Leave New York -(Desbrosses or Cortlandt streets) at 9 P.M. or midnight--through car to -Waycross. - -[Illustration] - - - - -A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. - - -KEY WEST, February, 1891. - -Key West, in Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Island), derived its name, so says -history, from the fact that the island was strewn with human bones. The -conquerors didn’t take time to bury the bones of the conquered. The -change, corruption Spaniards call it, from Cayo Hueso to Key West was -easy. - -The United States bought the island from Spain in 1816. The formation is -coral and it contains about two thousand acres. The Hon. C. B. -Pendleton, editor and proprietor of the _Equator-Democrat_, and a man of -culture who has served in the State Senate, showed me an island, or key, -as they call it in these parts, distant from Key West five miles, and -which he believed to be the most southerly point in the United States. -Another authority informed me that Cape Sable, distant from Key West -about sixty miles, is the most southerly point. - -To quote Editor Pendleton, Key West is distant from the tropical line -only thirteen miles. Doctors will differ; another authority gives it as -sixty miles. I am inclined to think that on the tropical question my -editorial brother is correct in his estimate, because Key West is only -distant from Cuba eighty or ninety miles. - -The climate is about the same as that of Havana. In the Cuban capital -the mercury never goes below sixty degrees; in Key West the lowest point -recorded is fifty-one. - -Key West is the ninth port of entry in the United States, collecting -more import duty than all the other ports in the States of Florida and -Georgia and one-half of Alabama combined. - -In 1860 the population was about two thousand, one-quarter of whom were -colored; but in 1869, after the rebellion in Cuba, the population of the -island began to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand, and -they claim that it is the largest city in Florida. - -The inhabitants are mixed, very much mixed--Cubans, negroes, Americans, -Chinese, etc. The negroes come from Nassau, Cuba and other places. - -Key West was bought of Spain, as before remarked; the island is nearer -Cuba than any other land, it is not in any sense American except that it -flies the American flag, and it seems to be now, to all intents and -purposes, a foreign place--a Spanish colony, as it once was. Spanish is -the prevailing language, and Cubans predominate. All the public notices -and handbills are printed in two languages, several newspapers are -printed in Spanish, and only one, the _Equator-Democrat_, in English. It -is difficult to make a purchase or to transact any business unless you -speak Spanish, and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars -who can understand you if addressed in English. The car drivers swear at -their patient, sadly abused mules in hard Spanish. All the American -residents and business men speak the prevailing tongue, or are learning -it as fast as they can, for without it they cannot so readily conduct -business. - -Speaking of the street cars, they are all open, of course, winter and -summer. In fact, there is never anything resembling northern winter -weather in Key West; light summer clothes and Panama hats are worn the -year round. - -But you are not obliged to patronize street cars. Riding in private -conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare than even in London, or in a -country town on the Continent. In London the smallest cab fare is one -shilling (twenty-five cents); in Key West you can ride a short distance -for a dime, and a longer distance for fifteen cents. The conveyance is a -very light and very dirty wagonette on four wheels. The driver is as -dirty as his vehicle, and his horse resembles those poor skeletons which -are blindfolded and pushed into the arena at a Cuban bull fight. - -Such tropical fruits as the sugar apple, the guava, mango, the soft and -sweet sapadillo, thrive in Key West. The climate and salt atmosphere -combine to make it the home of the palm. There are many tall, slender -and beautiful cocoanut trees, some with their graceful leaves waving as -high as eighty feet in the air, making an interesting and pretty picture -against a cloudless sky. - -But the cultivation of the cocoanut in Key West might be made very -profitable as well as picturesque. At present there are comparatively -few of such trees; their cultivation ought to be encouraged. The tree -has no tap root, and will thrive on a thin soil. It comes into bearing -eight or ten years from the nut; and after that the fruit grows and -increases every month in the year. Like the orange tree, the older it -gets the more it bears. A bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for -than an orange grove, and the revenue therefrom is greater. It requires -no cultivation, and is as hardy in its section as the cabbage palmetto, -that grows everywhere in Florida. Besides, cocoanuts can be shipped in -any month of the year; they require no packing, no care in handling, and -they will bear transportation for thousands of miles. There is a good -market for green cocoanuts in these parts as well as for matured ones. -When the nut is fully grown, but green, it contains about two glasses of -clear juice, milk we call it in the North. It is considered a healthful -beverage in the tropics and sells per glass in the streets of Havana for -the equivalent of five cents. - -Nature has favored Key West with a perfect climate. It is surrounded by -the Gulf of Mexico, as blue and as beautiful as the famous Danube. -Nature in fact has done everything she could to make the place desirable -as a residence for man, but man has done little or nothing for himself, -thus far, and if the truth must be told, notwithstanding its favorable -natural conditions and its lovely surroundings, Key West is not yet a -desirable place to live in. It has no sanitary laws, for nothing -whatever has been done with a view to sanitation, and yet with the salt -ocean all around the little island, how easy it would be to make it -healthy and clean, for it is neither one nor the other. There is no such -thing as system, no sewerage whatever in the town excepting one iron -pipe which leads from one hotel, the Russell House, to the sea, and even -that one pipe is allowed to clog occasionally. - -A liberally illustrated and large edition of the _Equator-Democrat_ was -issued in 1889, which presents a very rose-colored view of Key West. In -that paper I find that “the pleasant streets running at right angles are -as smooth and hard as adamant.” I am not certain that I am very well -acquainted with adamant, but I know that the streets of Key West are -unpaved and that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets I ever -saw. As I have lived in Baltimore, in New York and in New Orleans, my -testimony ought to be accepted on such a theme. I speak of Key West in -fine weather; what it must be in wet weather I don’t like to imagine. If -nothing but very deep ruts, holes and great gullies in the roadway -resemble adamant then is Key West adamantine beyond doubt. - -There is not a boot-black in the town; none is needed. Nobody thinks of -blacking his shoes; it would be absurd. I spoke on this point with a -young New Yorker who hails from the fashionable precincts of Madison -avenue. He is a business man who is liberal in the matter of money, -usually dressy, and extremely neat in his person. He has been in Key -West six months, and in all that time not a brush has passed over his -shoes. - -I regret to differ with my learned and courteous friend, the editor of -the _Democrat_, on the subject of hotels. Let him speak for himself. He -says that “The Russell House, the leading hotel in the city, is second -to none in the State in accommodations.” Now I had an idea that St. -Augustine and Jacksonville and Tampa were in Florida, and that there -were such hotels “in the State” as the Ponce de Leon and The Cordova at -St. Augustine, and the new Tampa Bay Hotel at Tampa Bay, not to mention -a number of other first-class houses “in the State.” - -Directly opposite the Russell is the Duval House. You may never have -heard of it; it is not one-third the size of the Russell House. I know -nothing of the apartments of the Duval. for I investigated no further -than the dining-room, but that was enough to establish its good -reputation. It will be a long time before I forget how beautifully -garnished a dish they made at the Duval of a red snapper, and the -delicious flavor of their _omelette soufflée_ remains with me still. The -Duval is presided over by a Cuban lady, Mrs. Bolio, who kept for years -one of the leading hotels in Havana. She is evidently a woman who knows -what good living is. - -Cigar-making is a very large and important industry in Key West. The -place was selected for cigar-making because the climate is suited to the -“curing” of tobacco in the leaf, and because it is near Havana. There is -something also in the name. Everybody does not know that this (Spanish) -island is United States territory, and some smokers if they see a “Key -West” label on a box of cigars believe, without stopping to think, that -they are smoking a foreign-made cigar. Now a Key West cigar if made from -Havana tobacco of fine quality has just as good a flavor as if it were -made in Cuba, but the Key West cigar can be sold at a lower price -because the import duty on cigars is much higher than the duty on the -raw material. - -Having the same climate as Havana, the best climate in the world for -tobacco curing, and the cigars being made by Cubans, who are the best -cigar-makers in the world, Key West turns out just as good cigars as can -be produced anywhere--provided always that tobacco of the first quality -is used. And the cigar need not consist entirely of Havana tobacco. A -cigar of choice flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos--Havana “filler” -and “binder,” with, say, a “Connecticut seed” or Sumatra wrapper. - -The manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided largely in building up -the business of Key West. One authority says that there are two hundred -factories, employing five thousand operatives, and transacting a -business amounting to seven millions of dollars annually. But this -report may be exaggerated. However, here are some more figures, and if -the reader is mathematically inclined he can draw his own conclusions: -Key West during 1890 turned out one hundred and forty millions of -cigars. - -There are very few Spanish or American cigarmakers in Key West; the -majority are Cubans, with a very small sprinkling of negroes. There are -so many factories and so many operatives that, although it is a -cigar-producing place, very few cigars indeed are sold at retail. -Everybody smokes, every one invites you to smoke; cigars are almost as -free as the air. It would be a paradise for a young dude who has a -slender purse and who is addicted to the weed. - -Upon the courteous invitation of P. Pohalski & Co., who have a branch in -Havana, with headquarters in Warren street, New York, I paid a visit to -their factory, which is one of the largest in Key West, and I was much -interested in what I saw. Pohalski & Co. erected their own factory, -upon their own ground, and it is one of the most imposing edifices in -Key West. They also built upon their own land a number of small houses -which they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure; for its size it -is quite a respectable colony. - -Although very large, employing several hundred hands, the factory is -orderly, exceedingly clean and neat, showing good government. Perfect -system reigns throughout the entire establishment. The first floor is -used for the business offices, for cases of tobacco and for the -“strippers;” the whole of the second floor is occupied by cigar makers, -and the third floor is used by the “packers,” also for curing leaf -tobacco and for storing cigars in boxes. - -A “stripper” is one who, with the dexter finger and thumb of the right -hand pulls the stem from the leaf while the leaf is damp, the leaf being -held in the left hand. It is done by a dexterous and quick movement, not -a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem. The most costly leaves, for -wrappers, are only entrusted to experienced operators. The strippers in -this factory are numbered by scores. They are all females, all Cubans, -and range in age from ten years old to women of fifty. - -It is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman with habits of -refinement, to see the older women, while at their work of stripping, -smoke long, thick cigars. They hold the cigar between their teeth and -seldom remove it, not even to talk. They are rough-looking cigars, -rolled into shape by the women themselves from the leaves they are -stripping. - -A more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar-making floor, above. -You will be surprised upon entering to see a man standing erect in the -centre of the room, book in hand, reading aloud. You cannot help but -notice, although Spanish may be Greek to you, that the reader’s voice is -powerful and well trained, reaching to the extreme corners and to the -most distant ears on the vast floor. He is a professional reader. The -several hundred men club together, each paying a nominal sum for the -reader’s services. In this way, while engaged in their work, they hear -the news of the day and are regaled with the latest Spanish novel. - -“Packing” cigars is a technical term. It is not simply to tie them up -with pretty silk ribbons and place them neatly in a box. A packer is one -who assorts the colors also. It is a very nice and delicate piece of -work. It demands a good eye for color and long experience, and then it -can only be done in a certain light, of course not by artificial light, -nor unless the day is bright. - -An overcast, murky and heavy sky is not good for packing--assorting, it -might be called. In a few hundred loose cigars placed on a table ready -for “packing,” the casual observer will probably see only three or four -colors. They are first assorted roughly to bring together those of -decided colors--light brown, medium, dark brown, etc. Then a pile of -dark or light shades is gone over again and again until the different -piles of cigars are alike, as if they were all made from one leaf and -turned out by machinery. The packer also discards a cigar that is not -perfectly made, or one not uniform with the rest. A special few, exact -as to form and hue, are selected for the top row, to catch and please -the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised. A good packer -is paid better than any other operative in the business. Men and women -are employed in it, some of them earning as high as twenty-five or -thirty-five dollars per week. - -The sponge trade is also a very large and important industry here. The -sponges are found in this part of the Gulf of Mexico, and the trade -gives employment to a great many people. I visited the largest sponge -house, that of Arapian & Co., and saw there in different stages, sponges -valued at a quarter of a million dollars. Such a stock of sponges, as -you can easily imagine, occupies much space. My only surprise was to -find such valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building. A fire -would spread easily, and the whole would be rapidly consumed. - -I have spoken of the dirty, unpaved streets of Key West; it would be -unfair not to mention a lovely drive which you can take for a few miles -on the edge of the Gulf. You go around the old forts, you see -lighthouses and other interesting objects en route, the bracing air from -the Gulf fans your cheeks, the ocean is spread out before you, and if -you return in the early evening, and near dinner time, you will most -likely be favored with a grand sunset, and you will surely have a keen -appetite. - -Key West is reached from New York by steamers of the Mallory line, and -from New Orleans by New Orleans and Havana steamers, but decidedly the -best and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the Plant line -of steamers which leave Tampa, Florida and Havana, Cuba, three times a -week. The “Mascotte” and “Olivette” were built for this route. They are -both staunch, swift, beautifully appointed ships, whose commanders were -in the Atlantic service for years, the “Olivette” being the fastest boat -of her size in the world--a model vessel. - -If you are going to Key West for pleasure--it is possible for people to -go there with that end in view--you will go from New York to -Jacksonville via the Pennsylvania and Atlantic coast lines and there -take the Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West Railroad, although part of -this “railway” journey consists of a sail on the Gulf of Mexico, from -Tampa. - -The island, with all its objectionable features, has churches of -different denominations, it has convents, good schools, and has one -large substantial and beautiful brick and stone building for a custom -house, for which the government appropriated one hundred thousand -dollars. - -Key West has a police force numbering fourteen officers, including men -of all colors and several nationalities. - - - - -ST. AUGUSTINE. - -AN ANCIENT CITY MODERNIZED. - - -ST. AUGUSTINE, FLA., Feb. 8, 1891. - -What a contrast, to leave the dust and dirt of Key West, its unpaved -roadways, full of deep ruts, large holes and great gullies: Key West, -with its mixed population of twenty thousand negroes, Cubans, Chinamen -and white folks: Key West, minus sidewalks, and minus many evidences of -a high state of civilization: what a contrast is it to arrive in this -beautiful city of the South, with its smooth-paved streets, its clean -and aristocratic air, and its three wondrously beautiful Spanish hotels, -all within speaking distance of each other. It is like leaping, if I may -use such an expression, from hades to heaven. - -The changes here within the past three years are great. Most important -to the tourist is the erection of a railway bridge which crosses the St. -John’s River. Three years ago you were obliged to stop at Jacksonville -if you approached from the north; if from the south, you steamed across -on a ferry-boat from Palatka. Now you take your seat in a drawing-room -car at Jersey City, in the North, or at Tampa, if you approach from the -South, and you need not leave the car until the conductor calls out “St. -Augustine”--thirty-one hours by vestibuled train from New York, twelve -hours by the West India Fast Mail from the Gulf, at Tampa. - -As to other changes, much land has been reclaimed from the river, miles -of roadway have been asphalted and paved with wooden blocks; the old -fort is being restored, for which work the government has appropriated -$15,000; many new houses have been built, all of coquina and in the -Moorish style; to the oldest house in the town has been added a new -stone tower; there has been erected a new City Hall, which includes a -fine market; and to crown it all, as it were, there is a new church, a -Memorial Presbyterian Church, built in memory of the beautiful daughter -Mr. Flagler lost two years ago. The structure is so attractive, so -pleasing to the eye, that in driving away from it you find yourself -constantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural lines in -view as long as possible. - -It is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of the Ponce de Leon -Hotel, the drawing-room of which, with its magnificent proportions, its -onyx fire-place, its ceiling decorations, its rich carpets and -furniture, and its rare paintings by Bridgman, Koppay, and other -artists, is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world. To call it -palatial is no compliment to “the Ponce” parlor, for I have seen no -apartments in royal palaces that are more pleasing, and I have been -favored with a view of many palaces in many countries. But the -approaches to the great hotel and its own grounds have been improved and -are now finished. - -The same remarks will apply to the exterior of the Alcazar Hotel, the -smooth and pleasant walk around the outside of which measures just half -a mile. The colored boys know: they use it semi-occasionally for a foot -or bicycle race: “twice around the Alcazar is one mile” they will tell -you. - -One of the novel features of this establishment is a swimming pool, into -which the sulphur water rushes up from the artesian well with great -force. There is room in the pool (40 by 120 feet) for scores of -swimmers, and there is always a number of visitors looking from the -galleries above on the lively scene below. With the mercury ranging -between 70 and 80 the sulphur water is indeed refreshing; and they say -it is quite invigorating. Temperature of the water, 75 degrees. - -In the Hotel Cordova you will notice some changes, for the indefatigable -manager, E. N. Wilson, is never content with his efforts. There is a new -dining-room for instance. The best seems not good enough for Mr. Wilson, -and his critical eye is always finding some way to improve the house and -to add to its comfort. He has redecorated the parlor. The walls are now -richly papered but the tints are not satisfactory--to Mr. Wilson. The -furniture and carpets are in dark colors, so Mr. Wilson later on -contemplates covering the walls with white and gold for an artistic -contrast. Expensive? Yes, I should say so, but who cares for the -expense? Mr. Flagler has a very long purse and Mr. Wilson has _carte -blanche_. If the owner in planning these hotels had thought only of -pecuniary profit probably they would never have come into existence in -their present form. It is an idea with him to beautify the ancient city, -and a half million dollars more or less make little or no difference to -Mr. Flagler. Yet his hotels are conducted with a careful regard of -business-like methods, although this is not apparent to the casual -observer. - -By the way, I have the very best of reasons for knowing that Mr. -Flagler’s private acts of charity are many and munificent. After making -full and proper inquiry into a case presented to him he always responds, -but he never wants his generous acts to be made public. He will not -thank me for this “mention,” I feel sure, but it is his due and possibly -no harm can come from printing it. - -Mr. Flagler has bought all the land around and about his three hotels, -so that nobody can erect anything anywhere near him. He is not the man -to do anything by halves. - -The sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a suite I occupy in -the castellated tower on a corner of the Hotel Cordova. The walls of -the building are of gray coquina. Outside each window is a small and -separate “kneeling balcony,” protected by ornamental iron railings, -painted a reddish brown--such balconies as you see in some buildings in -Madrid. The windows have white lace curtains and the shades are -alternate blue and crimson--contrasting pleasantly with the neutral tint -of the outer walls. To the east, within stone’s throw, is Cordova Park; -to the west, the same distance, is the one-acre park of the Alcazar, -with its tropical foliage, pretty walks and handsome fountain; while -diagonally opposite, same distance again (about one hundred feet), loom -up the terra-cotta turrets, towers, arches and gabled roofs of the Ponce -de Leon Hotel, with its grand park of four and a half acres. This may -convey some idea of the situation; to describe the scene requires the -pen if not the pencil of an artist. - -The Cordova drawing-room has its tables and chairs, and it contains some -books also; not odd volumes picked up haphazard, but books bought and -selected by an artist, book-worm and connoisseur. In the Cordova library -you will find “Burke’s Peerage,” “Almanach de Gotha,” “Webster’s Royal -Red Book,” “Kelly’s Handbook to the Titled, Landed and Official -Classes,” “The County Families of the United Kingdom,” Debrett’s “House -of Commons and the Judicial Bench,” “Castles and Abbeys of England” and -“Stately Homes of England.” I have enumerated only a few of the ordinary -volumes relating to Great Britain, but there are also rare and valuable -tomes richly and beautifully illustrated, descriptive of life and scenes -in different countries. For instance, one set in three volumes is -“Masterpieces of Industrial Art and Sculpture at the International -Exhibition,” by J. B. Waring, published in 1862. This mammoth work is -richly illuminated, bound in red morocco, picked out with gold, and -measures one foot by a foot and a half. It probably cost in London -twenty-five pounds, and gives one some idea of the money and good taste -expended in selecting the Cordova library. If one is fond of instructive -books his taste can be gratified at the Cordova. - -At the majority of hotels you eat ordinary oranges, brought to the table -direct from the store-room: at the Cordova only Indian River oranges are -used, selected “Indian Rivers,” and instead of coming direct from the -store-room they come from a refrigerator. After this process they become -Grateful and Comforting, to quote the names which Epps, the famous cocoa -man, gave his two daughters. Perfect quiet reigns in the dining-room. -The waiters are governed, well governed, by a head waiter whose head is -level. He would even satisfy that “cranky critic,” as he has been -called, Max O’Rell. The men, when serving dinner, wear dress coats, -black trousers and white cravats. Instead of a loose waistcoat they wear -a broad black sash around the waist, and instead of noisy boots they -wear shoes having cloth uppers and rubber soles--black tennis shoes. Not -a word is heard from the servants, except in polite response to an -order, and they glide about like dark angels. - -[Illustration] - - - - -ABOUT TAMPA. - - -THE INN, PORT TAMPA, FLA., January 31, 1891. - -Tampa is of interest historically, being the place where Ferdinand De -Soto landed May 25, 1539. From here he started on his search for the -mines of wealth supposed to exist in the new world, which resulted in -the discovery of the Mississippi river. It is here also that Narvaez, -having obtained a grant of Florida from Charles V. of Spain, landed with -a large force April 16, 1528. - -Tampa is on the Gulf coast of Florida, two hundred and forty miles from -Jacksonville. There are two trains daily with Pullman cars from -Jacksonville and St. Augustine to Tampa, passing through Palatka, -Sanford and Winter Park, both having direct connection with all Eastern -and Western cities and one being a through train from New York. - -Its rapid growth during the past seven years from about eight hundred -inhabitants to as many thousands, has been brought about by the Plant -system, which completed the South Florida railroad to Tampa for the -purpose of developing Tampa commercially. - -Dr. Long, a United States army surgeon, wrote of Fort Brooks, at Tampa, -“This post has always been considered a delightful station.” Dr. Long’s -reports and other reports to the surgeon-general at Washington show it -to be one of the most healthful stations in the country. - -Peninsulas have always been thought desirable because of their climate, -which gives them advantages over other localities, and among peninsulas -Florida is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly as it is -affected by the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico. - -The investment of large capital in constructing a new hotel in Florida -with the expectation of drawing to it the requisite patronage, demanded -a knowledge of the requirements of winter tourists who visit the place -for health or pleasure. Those requirements have been carefully studied -by Mr. H. B. Plant, president of the Plant Investment Company, acting -under the advice of eminent scientists, in the selection of Tampa. The -new hotel is situated on the west side of the Hillsborough river where -it empties into Tampa bay, opposite to and facing the city, which is -within easy walking distance. From the river to the front of the hotel -there are extensive lawns and flower beds, with orange, palm and other -tropical trees, the hotel grounds and property including twenty-two -acres. At the rear of the house there is a long stretch of pine lands. - -As you view the house at a distance, from the deck of a steamer, or from -a car window, with its long stretch of brick front, its iron and stone -trimmings, its many towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed, -balloon-shaped domes, each surmounted by a shining gold crescent, it -impresses you at once as being a great oriental palace. And this idea is -aided by the palms and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is -surrounded. - -The oriental idea also strikes you as you enter. There is a grand -“office,” the ceilings are supported by stout marble columns, and the -music-room, the drawing-room, and all the minor rooms on the main floor -are furnished in the very best taste, the matter of expense never -seeming to be a question with those who selected the furniture and -decorations in different parts of the world. It is safe to say that very -few winter or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly -furnished. - -The hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and is practically -fireproof, the outer and inner walls being of brick, with steel beams -and concrete floors. There has been the most approved scientific work in -drainage and plumbing, and there is an abundant supply of good water. On -each floor the wide hall extends the entire length of the main -building--512 feet. There are no inside rooms. Every room has the sun -during some portion of the day, and a large number of suites have -private baths. The house is heated by steam, in addition to which there -are open fire-places in the rooms. The latest improvements have been -introduced in lighting. - -The other day I was in the Savannah depot of the Savannah, Florida and -Western railroad waiting for the Florida special vestibuled train, when -I heard a colored “depot hand” say that he wished the Tampa Bay Hotel -had been built elsewhere. “Why, may I ask?” “Well,” answered my civil -and sable informant, “I am tired of handlin’ de stuff for dat hotel; -we’se been a doin’ it in dis yer depot for de whole year. But it’s -comin’ putty near de end now, I guess. Las’ Saturday der went thro’ de -depot three whole cyars filled with nutting else but cyarpets, all for -dat house.” These remarks give one some faint idea of the size of the -new hotel. - -Mr. Plant did a great deal for Tampa when he ran his railroad down -there, his lines of steamers from Tampa to Havana and Mobile have -greatly helped the prosperity of the place, and now he has crowned his -good work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regardless of the -cost. If there was not already a Plant City in Florida, I should suggest -to change the name of Tampa to Plant City. The house will accommodate -four hundred guests; the rates are five dollars per day. It is only -open during the winter, from Christmas until the first of April. But do -not go to Tampa without your summer clothes. - - * * * * * - -All the above relates to the big new hotel at Tampa Bay, but all of it -is written at the Inn, in Port Tampa, distant from Tampa Bay proper nine -miles. The Inn is “little,” it accommodates only seventy-five guests, -but it is a gem of a hotel. It is built on, or rather over, the water on -piles, and is like an island, being actually surrounded by water. There -is always a pleasant breeze on one side of the house, and a breeze is -very grateful in this latitude. As I write, the mercury in a thermometer -hanging outside my bedroom window marks 75 degrees; this is at 5 P.M., -Saturday, January 31. We sleep with open windows, and nothing more than -your pajama or a sheet is necessary for a covering. - -Two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely of sliding-windows -through which you can see wild ducks and fish in great quantities. I -have seen wild ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open windows -of this dining-room. You can throw a line into the water as you sit at -dinner and if it be properly baited you will probably find a mullet at -the end of the cord before you reach your _café noir_. - -It goes without saying that there are good sailing and fishing at Port -Tampa: Spanish mackerel and the pompano abound, the latter conceded by -epicures to be one of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world. -Here also is the famous tarpon--Silver King he has been christened. In -fact Port Tampa is a very paradise for sportsmen. It is easy to supply -the table with oysters, fish and game in profusion. The table by the way -is liberally provided, and the service by Swiss and French waiters is -good. - -The dining-room of the Tampa Inn reminds you of the dining-room of the -Hygeia Hotel at Old Point Comfort, not for its size, but for its water -surroundings, and the scene outside brings up recollections of the Surf -Hotel at Fire Island. Picnic Island, across the Gulf one mile, might be -a bit of Long Island. But there the similarity ends because the Inn, -unlike the Surf Hotel, is a new house and is luxuriously furnished. - -Steamers leave here weekly (every Tuesday) for Mobile, and tri-weekly -(Monday, Thursday and Saturday), for Key West and Havana. - -The railway depot conveying you to Tampa Bay (frequent daily trains), is -at the door of the hotel, and from this same depot you can get a through -car to Jacksonville or to New York. - -The rates at the Inn are four and five dollars a day. It is proposed to -keep it open all the year. - -[Illustration] - - - - -MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. - - -MONTEREY, CAL., March 25, 1891. - -The name Monterey means Mountain King and was bestowed on the place in -1602 by Don Sebastian Vizcaino in honor of Jaspar de Zuniga, Conte de -Monte de Rey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It was he who suggested -and projected the expedition undertaken by Vizcaino. - -When the members of this expedition returned to Spain the place returned -to its primitive condition and nothing was heard of it till a band of -Franciscan missionaries arrived on this coast in 1768, one hundred and -sixty-eight years after the first discovery. This expedition came under -the direction and guidance of the president of the band, Father Junipero -Serra. - -At the risk of being charged with sacrilege, I will interpolate right -amid this ancient history a bit of fresh news imparted to me yesterday -by a carriage driver. He showed me from the road a high plateau -overlooking the sea, where plainly to the naked eye were to be seen -preparations for receiving a statue, which is to be in place and to be -dedicated before long. It will be in honor of Father Junipero before -mentioned; it will cost ten thousand dollars, and the wife of Senator -Leland Stanford will foot the bill. The site for the statue is a -magnificent one, and if the work of art be worthy of its position, the -city of Monterey will have something it may be proud of. - -There’s a “History of Monterey County” by E. S. Harrison. I didn’t know -before I came here and looked into it that Monterey was the first place -settled in the State of California; that the first custom house in the - -[Illustration: HOTEL DEL MONTE.] - -State (now an old rookery) was established here; that Monterey was once -not only a bustling city, but the capital of the State. It is not a -wholly deserted village now, but its commercial glory, like that of -Newport, R. I., which was once a greater port of entry than New York, -has departed, never to return. But Monterey will always be dear to the -hearts of Californians, from its historic associations and connections. - -“The first European lady to come to California,” says Harrison, “was the -wife of Governor Fages, who arrived in Monterey in 1783. Their child, -born about 1784, was probably the first child born in California of -European parents.” - -Monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco, and is -reached in four hours by the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific -Railroad Company. On the way, in San Mateo county (_en passant_, what -musical names all these counties and mountains have), within ten to -forty miles from the starting point, Fourth and Townsend streets, you -pass the rural homes of San Francisco’s millionaires. Some are set in -great forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in perennial bloom. -Next, the beautiful city of San José comes in view, and a flourishing -city it appears to be from the car windows. As the train rolls along you -keep in sight for many miles the dome of the Lick Observatory, which -glistens in the sunlight on the summit of Mount Hamilton. - -And then you haven’t eyes enough to take in and enjoy the beautiful -views of ocean, river, valley and mountain as the train dashes -along--the Coast Range mountains on your left, on the right the Santa -Cruz mountains, with the sun setting behind them--a glorious moving -panorama. - -After passing what is called the most fertile valley in the State -Monterey is reached, if that be your destination, but there is a more -important station one mile this side of Monterey. When the conductor -calls out “Hotel del Monte” very few passengers in the cars remain -seated, and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town of Monterey, -almost empty. - -The first action which the Pacific Improvement Company took when they -concluded to make of this place a summer and winter resort was to -purchase some land for the purpose, so they purchased _seven thousand -acres_. Part of this domain was a forest, and of this they selected for -their hotel “garden” a simple matter of _one hundred and twenty-six -acres_. Forty acres of this they cultivated in flower-beds, lawns, -vegetables and fruit; the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it, -after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to lay out within -their gates a few miles for drives and paths. - -Then it occurred to them that it would be well to have a grand outside -drive as an additional attraction, so they made one, cutting away -mountain, forest and bluff; going through the woods, four or five miles; -skirting the ocean for the same distance; altogether a nice little -post-prandial drive of _seventeen miles_. But this is not much--for -California. The drive being private property it is used only for the -guests of the Hotel del Monte, the owners of which keep it in the best -order, and in summer time have it watered. It is macadamized and in as -good condition as the drives in Central Park, New York. - -The road winds toward the bay through a forest of oaks and pines. For -two or three miles it will be cool, dark, shaded and sweet smelling, and -presently you get a view of the ocean. If the wind is high, as it was on -the twenty-second of March, you will see foaming white-caps in the -distance, and the spray dashing wildly on the bare brown rocks in the -foreground, making a picture which, on the day we saw it, was awfully -grand. I don’t mean this in the sense that girls do when they - -[Illustration: THE SEAL ROCKS AT MONTEREY.] - -say a thing is “awfully nice;” I mean that the boisterous waves were -almost frightful with their impetuous rush and their terrible roar. - -To quote dear old Fitz-Greene Halleck, whose statue in Central Park few -recognize: - - The winds of March were humming - Their parting song, their parting song. - -It was a habit of my predecessor on the _Home Journal_, General George -P. Morris, to publish annually this sweet song of Halleck’s in the _Home -Journal_ during the first week of March. It was a singular fancy of -Morris’s and it pleased his brother poet. - -But I am getting away from my story--and the surf. The seals didn’t seem -to mind the roaring surf or howling wind. Their unearthly bark formed -part of the grand chorus. They tossed their heads and rolled their -ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their command, which is not -saying much for their sylph-like movements. No; water is their element. - -If you expect to see the seals of the same color as the sealskin sacques -worn by women, you may not see the seals at all, for they match in color -with the brownish gray rocks on which they romp. They have not gone -through the process of “London dyeing.” I didn’t take the trouble to get -out of the carriage and go down to the shore, so in this instance I -accepted the driver’s word that there were five hundred seals on the -rocks. - -The cultivated grounds of the Hotel del Monte astonish you with their -size and beauty and with the neatness and order in which they are kept. -Probably not elsewhere is there such variety in horticulture. Everything -from everywhere seems to thrive here. Nor do I know of any section of -country where there are such noble oaks and pines, but probably the -company claim too much when they say that “the garden is the finest, -the most gorgeous, the richest and most varied in all the world.” A few -years have elapsed since I examined Kensington and Kew closely, but it -seems to me that the Tuileries gardens, which I saw one year ago, are -richer, and I know that the gardens in Hyde Park, through which I -strolled last August, are more pleasing to the eye and to the sense of -smell. I speak of the floral display only; it must be remembered, -however, that the Del Monte gardens are not at their best in March. - -The trees are wonderful. I carry with me not only a thermometer but a -tiny tape measure, the latter in my pocket. I asked the driver to stop -as we were driving through the grounds, while I measured a pine and I -found that it was four and a half yards in circumference near the -ground. The driver told me how tall it was, but I will not quote him as -I’m not giving you “California stories.” This pine was not pointed out -nor did I select it for its size. There were others within a few feet of -where this giant stood just as large, and for all I know there are -hundreds on the ground much larger. - -Of course the palm abounds, all trees of tropical growth are here; there -are calla lilies for borders, violets, heliotrope, nasturtium, -honeysuckle in wild profusion, and this in March, mind you. Is there -ivy? “Well, rather,” as an Englishman might answer such a question. A -leaf now lies on my table which measures five inches across. The grounds -are in charge of a skilled landscape gardener with a force of -thirty-five men--English, American and Chinese. - -Foreigners from other lands may rail against the Chinese as much as they -please, and our legislators may be right in excluding them lest they -overrun the country, but it must be said in their favor that they are a -peaceful, industrious set, and there are no better servants for indoor -or outdoor work. Under certain conditions, however, they are as -obstinate as mules. When you engage them you must be exceedingly -careful in giving them instructions, for they will always continue to do -what they are at first told to do; you cannot change their ways. - -Mr. George Schönewald, manager of Hotel del Monte, while we were -chatting in his office, illustrated it to me in this way: “Observe that -Chinaman wiping carefully the casing of that white door. He was told -when he first came here that he was to do that sort of work at this time -of day, and if the heavens fall he’ll do it. If I were to ask him this -minute to leave that door and polish this plate glass window he might -obey, but it would upset him for the day, if not for all time. If you -change your mind and want the work done in a different way you had -better change your Chinaman, you can’t change their ways. But seven -Chinamen will do the work of fourteen white men.” - -And this brings me to the fact that nearly all the walls and all the -interior woodwork of these great buildings are painted white. The lack -of color becomes a little tiresome to the eye, but one thing comforts -you, it is kept white--not a mark, not a spot to mar its perfection. -Chinamen are always washing either doors, windows, surbase, or whatever -part of the floor is not carpeted; all is pure white except the floor of -the beautiful dining-room, which is of dark English oak kept highly -polished. - -The series of buildings is in the modern Gothic style, the main building -three hundred and fifty feet front, with a central tower eighty feet -high and wings or annexes two hundred and eighty feet long, showing an -entire floor area of sixteen acres. An acre or two, more or less, is -nothing--in California. The bed-room in which this is written is an -ordinary room here, eighteen by sixteen feet. Even the marble wash-basin -is worth measuring--three feet three in circumference. Running water, -gas, fireplaces; and closets built with partition walls in every room. -There are five hundred and ten rooms, and seven hundred people can be -accommodated comfortably. - -I am surprised here, as I have been elsewhere in California, at the low -rates which obtain at hotels. A placard on the door of this -well-furnished room, with beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious -bed, reads: “Rate for this room, with board, for one person $3.50; for -two $6.50. With bath-room $4 and $7 per day.” And in the bath-room there -appears to be an inexhaustible supply of boiling water. There is no -charge made in the ladies’ billiard room, which adjoins the parlor; no -charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake. - -If the plumbing is right, and so it appears to be, there is no trouble -with the question of drainage, the ocean being at the door. The drinking -water is brought from Carmel river, eighteen miles distant, in the -mountains. A ton of ice per day is made on the premises. Some of the -vegetables are raised near the hotel, and there is a dairy farm -connected with the property measuring untold acres. - -Native wines are sold at Hotel del Monte lower than I’ve seen them -either here or abroad. It’s easy to be a “swell” at Del Monte. A half -bottle of Zinfandel is opened and served at table for fifteen cents, and -a very good wine it is, too, so far as pleasing my palate goes. But I -don’t profess to be so well versed in wines as the late Sam Ward or the -present Ward McAllister. There is a secret, however, in the low charge -for California wine at Hotel del Monte--the company have their own -vineyards. What haven’t they got? They have nothing less than a Steinway -concert grand in the parlor and another in the ball-room. - -There’s a feature that almost escaped being put down, and yet it is -worthy of special mention. To the first floors in the two annexes you -neither ascend nor descend any stairs; nor do you to the second floor. -To the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade; to the -second you ascend an inclined arcade. If you have a room even on the -third floor you only walk up one flight of stairs, unless you prefer the -elevator. - -This is not a new idea, however. I remember being shown through an old, -unused palace in Berlin which was constructed in the same way, A member -of the royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism and so was -rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this way. The porter at this -hotel, wheeling his truck “upstairs” loaded with trunks, reminded me of -the rheumatic royalty. - -In all hotels recently constructed there is an electric bell as well as -an electric button in every room. If you leave word to be called in the -morning, there’s no rapping outside your door--rapping loud enough to -awaken every sleeper near your apartment. There is an electric button in -the office which connects with a bell in your room, and to this call you -will respond. There is no escape from it; you must get out of bed to -stop the ringing. - -The first Hotel del Monte, opened in 1880, was destroyed by fire: the -new house was erected four years ago. The present manager, Mr. George -Schönewald, opened the first house and superintended the construction of -the second. As his name indicates, he is not to the manor born. He -arrived in this country twenty-five years ago without a penny in his -pocket, but with a determination to make a position for himself. There -is no secret in his success. Anybody can gain success who will follow -the Schönewald method. It was not “blind luck “ with him, but industry, -unceasing industry, directed with unusual intelligence. - -Schönewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position. On his arrival in -this country he decided to be a practical confectioner, and not long -after he received the highest salary ever paid in the State to a -confectioner. Then he took to cooking and earned the highest salary -ever paid to a cook in the State. Step by step has he moved from the -very bottom round of the ladder to the management of one of the largest -and finest hotels in the country. - -Schönewald is a worker. He is supposed to take three meals a day, but -sometimes his breakfast is not touched till late in the afternoon. From -my window I have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before my -toilet was completed; and your humble servant, as a general rule, is out -of bed before seven A.M. The interests of the company first, his own -comfort last, seems to be this manager’s motto. - -Yes, your Germans are workers. Mrs. Schönewald is her husband’s -helpmeet: she fills the position of housekeeper at Hotel del Monte, and -that probably accounts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably -furnished--a rocker here, an easy, arm-chair there, with a neat white -“tidy” on the upholstered back. There’s nothing like a woman’s eye, a -woman’s thoughtfulness in providing all the tasteful etceteras which -make a home comfortable and complete. - -I will close with a clipping from the tourist book, “To the Golden -Gate,” issued by the Pennsylvania Railroad:--“The Eastern traveler -coming to California’s coast and failing to see ‘Del Monte’ has indeed -missed not everything, but a goodly part.” - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: OLD OAKS, DEL MONTE.] - -[Illustration: PROFILE OF FRONT. HOTEL DEL MONTE.] - - - - -[Illustration: HOTEL DEL CORONADO, CORONADO BEACH, CALIFORNIA.] SAN -DIEGO AND CORONADO. - - -CORONADO BEACH, CAL., March 5, 1891. - -I was induced to think about coming to Southern California by the -tempting descriptions in Henry T. Finck’s book, “Scenic Tour of the -Pacific Coast,” and by interesting articles in the Century Magazine. -Toward San Diego and Coronado Beach my steps were turned by Charles -Dudley Warner’s glowing accounts in Harper’s Magazine. - -I had always accepted with a grain of salt the flattering reports so -widely published, and now that I have seen for myself these wondrous -things, my friends will scarcely credit my story, so enthusiastic have I -become. - -However, I do not intend that you shall rely on my mere “say so.” I’ve -been looking up official and other authorities--men of wide reputation, -who have a name to lose. - -First, as to climate. This is the fifth of March; I have been here one -week to-day, and every day of the seven has been about alike--dry, -sunshiny, only on one or two days cloudy. On some days of the seven I -have seen men bathing in the ocean, and the bathers said that the -temperature was enjoyable--this in February. I am told that you can -bathe in the surf the year round, but never mind what “I am told.” - -And in temperature, I believe it to be the most equable climate in the -world--but away with “beliefs,” I have a thermometer of my own, and the -hotel has one also, but I have watched closely a government, -self-recording instrument which is so placed that no ray of the sun nor -no reflection can approach it, and the figures, signed by an official of -the signal service in the United States army, record something like this -for the current week: five A. M., 55 degrees; noon, 68 degrees; five P. -M., 64 degrees. The figures quoted, to be exact, are those recorded on -February 28; some days since then have been a trifle cooler. - -You may suggest: “If there is almost continual sunshine during daylight, -and the ground is always covered with grass and wild flowers, it must be -very hot and trying in summer.” - -Must it? Remember there is a bay on three sides of Coronado, and the -Pacific ocean is on the other. But I will ask you to remember nothing. -From the compiled records of the United States signal station here, I -have “boiled down” a lot of facts and figures into this condensed form, -to wit:--in ten years, from 1876 to 1885, both years inclusive, there -were only one hundred and twenty days on which the mercury rose higher -than 80 degrees. And the summer nights are far more pleasant than those -you experience in New York. - -What about the winter then? Here is the answer, gathered in the same -way from the same official source. There were only ninety-three days in -those same ten years upon which the mercury reached as low as 40, and on -no day did it remain at 40 for more than two hours. - -By comparing, as I did, the United States record of the mean temperature -at Coronado for one year with a computation--made in the same year by -Dr. Bennett of the mean temperature of the Mediterranean records, I find -that the winter temperature of Coronado is 8 degrees _higher_ than the -winter temperature of the most favored foreign winter resorts, and the -summer temperature 10 degrees _lower_, thus making an average of 9 -degrees in favor of Coronado as an all-year-round resort. - -I haven’t the honor of Mr. Douglas Gunn’s acquaintance, but in his -interesting pamphlet concerning this region he says: “With scarcely a -perceptible difference between summer and winter you wear the same -clothing and sleep under the same covering the year round. The average -annual rainfall is about ten inches, with an average of thirty-four -rainy days in the whole year. And here most of the rain falls at night; -there are very few of what Eastern people would call “‘rainy days.’” - -My week’s experience agrees with Mr. Gunn’s observations. He says: -“Almost every morning, about two hours after sunrise, a gentle sea -breeze commences, attaining its maximum velocity between one and three -P.M., then decreasing, and changing to a gentle land breeze during the -night. The sea breeze increasing as the sun gains its height, modifies -the power of its rays, and keeps the skin just comfortably warm. The -gentle land breeze at night cools off the heat absorbed during the day, -and makes every night refreshing.” - -I could go on and quote to the same effect from no less distinguished an -authority than the scientist Agassiz, who was in this locality nineteen -years ago; also from Dr. Chamberlain in the New York Medical Record, who -says “it is the sanitarium of the Military Division for the Pacific,” -and from one known to me personally, Dr. Titus Munson Coan, a New York -littérateur of reputation, who calls this “the most charming spot on -earth;” but I fear that you might make some such remark as a very young -clubman did (fifty years ago) on seeing “Hamlet” for the first time. -Asked for his opinion, he said: “It’s a very good play, Fred, but too -d----d full of quotations.” - -THE LOCATION.--Coronado Beach proper occupies about one-half of the -peninsula that forms the bay of San Diego. It is situated in the extreme -southwestern corner of the State, in latitude 32 degrees 42 minutes 37 -seconds north, longitude 117 degrees 9 minutes west, and is four hundred -and eighty miles southeast from San Francisco. The peculiar shape of -this unique peninsula makes it difficult to describe. Beginning as it -does, very near the boundary line of Lower California, in Mexico, it -reaches away to the westward for miles, until, at a point opposite the -present city of San Diego, it forms a conjunction with what seems to -have been an island, which, if squared, would measure about a mile and a -half on each side. On the northeast and southeast are the slopes and -peaks of the Coast Range and Lower California chain of mountains; -southward lies the Pacific ocean; on the west is Point Loma, which forms -the western boundary of the entrance to the bay, and breaks the force of -the winter winds from the Pacific. - -But how do you get to the hotel? Well, Coronado is one and a half miles -from San Diego, San Diego is one hundred and twenty-five miles from Los -Angeles, and Los Angeles is a station of the Southern Pacific Railroad, -also a station of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fé road. San Diego is -also reached by steamer from San Pedro and from San Francisco, eight -hours from the former, two days from the latter. - -The Pacific Coast Steamship Company runs a fine line of boats. I made -the trip on one, the Corona, a well-appointed vessel of 1500 tons, built -on the plan of the Olivette and Mascotte, which run between Tampa and -Havana. The Corona makes about thirteen knots; not so swift as the -Olivette; no boat of her size is as swift as the Olivette. - -Some of the conditions of land and water are similar to those at Fire -Island--ocean on one side, bay on the other. But while Fire Island lacks -vegetation, every inch of ground here which is allowed to remain so is -green, or is carpeted with flowers--literally carpeted. No; Fire Island -will not quite answer for comparison. There is no use for a horse, nor -is there a horse on the land or the sand of Sammis, while here there are -fast trotters, lovely drives and a race course. The two places are -alike, in that surf and still water bathing can both be had, as well as -sailing and rowing. But there is other sport here--shooting, for -instance. I saw two men go out this morning after breakfast, -empty-handed (one of them was E. S. Babcock), and I saw them return this -evening with a bag which they said contained “about one hundred quail.” -I saw the birds counted and they numbered one hundred--lacking eight. - -Is the ocean too cool for you or the surf boisterous, there is a plunge -bath off shore with water heated to 80 degrees. The tank measures 40 x -60 feet, so you can flounder about like a veritable fish. - -But you neither shoot, fish, swim, ride nor drive? Then there are -charming and varied walks--on the edge of the rough ocean, on the edge -of the smooth bay, on the high bluff at the side of the former, or -through pretty country lanes and lovely gardens. - -There is a charming walk of about one mile from the hotel to the ferry, -and planks are laid about half the distance. You pass by or pass -through pretty parks. On each “sidewalk” there is a row of young fan -palms six to eight feet high, these alternate with daisy bushes six feet -in circumference, the palm trees and bushes being about eight feet -apart; here and there rows of young pines ten or twelve feet high. - -A MAGNIFICENT VALLEY VIEW.--To my mind one of the most delightful -morning or afternoon excursions hereabouts is made at an expense of -forty cents, without walking a block. Steam railway from hotel to ferry, -boat across the bay to San Diego, next a horse car to cable road, then -five miles by cable road through a country rich with gorgeous mountain, -valley and ocean views, to “The Pavilion.” The Pavilion, erected on the -summit of a mountain, is an amusement building surrounded by well-kept -paths and terraces from which a view is had of Mission Valley, a valley -and a view not unlike that which you get from the old Catskill Mountain -House and which many people prefer to that, because this view is not so -extensive and can all be taken in and enjoyed at a glance, with the -naked eye. You can see cattle and dogs in Mission Valley from your -elevated position, and you see men ploughing and engaged in other farm -labor. It is a spectacle that is worth going a hundred miles to see, and -if you can afford it you would not begrudge as many dollars as it costs -cents to make the trip. You are at a loss for words to describe your -feelings of pleasure when the grand Mission Valley view bursts upon you. -You remain silent in awe and admiration. - -Are these walks and excursions not of your choice, or should the weather -be inclement, there are verandas about the hotel measuring a mile or -more. - -Neither have interior amusement and exercise been forgotten. There is a -dancing hall (to which reference will be made further on), there are -bowling alleys and there are some billiard tables--as many as -thirty--some for men on the lower floor, some for the other sex on the -main floor, and some for both sexes on the floor above. Just think of -thirty billiard tables in one house. - -The tables for women are well patronized. It is remarked that women -favor billiard playing in the evening and in evening dress, and it is -also noticed that the figure of a beautiful woman with her shapely arm -in short sleeves of lace is seen to excellent advantage when leaning -over the table, the white arm forming a pleasing contrast in color to -the dark green baize of the table. - -CORONADO’S RAPID GROWTH.--The Coronado Beach Company was organized a few -years ago with a capital of three millions of dollars. The directors are -E. S. Babcock, Charles T. Hinde, John D. Spreckels, H. W. Mallett and -Giles Kellogg. The president is E. S. Babcock. The company some years -ago laid out that part of the peninsula known as Coronado Beach into -streets and avenues; but up to January 1, 1887, not a house was built. -Now the streets are lined with beautiful villa residences--some of them -substantial, imposing brick buildings--handsome cottages and many -business blocks. There are three or four hotels, several nurseries, -lumber yards, planing mills, foundries, factories, fruit packing -establishments and shipbuilding yards. There is a handsome Methodist -Episcopal church; the Presbyterian, Episcopal and Catholic denominations -also have places of worship. A commodious school-house has a large -number of pupils and Coronado has a weekly newspaper. With the growth of -young Coronado came the growth of old San Diego--in fact, the latter -reflects and shares the popularity of the former. San Diego’s -population, which in 1884 was twenty-four hundred, now numbers over -twenty thousand. Imagine the population of a town increasing eight fold -in seven years. - -Neither crooked like those of London, nor narrow like those of Boston, -are the streets of Coronado. Like the streets in Philadelphia and San -Diego, they are named after trees: Orange avenue is one hundred and -forty feet wide, Palm and Olive avenues one hundred feet wide. A -boulevard one hundred and thirty feet wide extends around the entire -property. What about the sewer system? Unlike Key West, in Florida, -Coronado with its unequalled water facilities has taken advantage of its -excellent natural position. With the bay and ocean at its doors, the -sewer question was quickly and easily solved--every street is already -sewered. Investors were not taking any chances when they placed their -funds in Coronado’s keeping. - -A GOOD PURCHASE.--The whole of what is now the flourishing city of San -Diego was bought twenty years ago by a Mr. Horton for twenty-six cents -an acre. He built the Horton House, and for him the Horton Block was -named. San Diego’s neighbor, Coronado Beach, was bought half a dozen -years ago for one hundred and eighty thousand dollars by a company which -has since parted with a parcel of the land for a million or two. They -kept some choice pieces for themselves. Among the parcels of land is -that upon which Hotel del Coronado stands, and upon which was expended a -million and a half dollars. San Diego and Coronado Beach both -experienced “booms” about three years ago, when many men became suddenly -rich, some of them since becoming poor. Not a few now are what is known -as “real estate poor,” their money is “locked up” in land for which -purchasers cannot be found at present--at least not at the price which -“raged” three years ago. - -Choice pieces on the main street of Coronado Beach sold as high as $500 -per front foot, which is about the price of lots in certain parts of New -York--say in Harlem--with this difference, that “lots” here are one -hundred and sixty feet deep. Had there not been real value in the land -when the bubble burst, the bottom would have dropped out entirely when -“hard pan” was reached. As it is, land and lots are again finding ready -purchasers, and houses are being built in goodly numbers. That there is -a steady growth, a healthy increase, and a great future for San Diego -and Coronado Beach is a matter of certainty. - -WATER, ICE AND SANITATION.--In my travels about the world I advise my -daughters to be cautious of the water in new places and to drink as -little as possible; here, on the contrary, I urge them to drink freely. -The water is not only pure and most agreeable to the taste, but it -contains medical properties which are beneficial to the system. Of this -we are assured by testimonials from leading physicians in different -States; among them Dr. W. H. Mason, late professor of physiology in the -University of Buffalo, N. Y., who, referring to the analysis, says: “The -water may be regarded as a regular elixir of life.” Its ingredients are -almost identical with the famous Bethesda waters of Wisconsin. - -At all events, a company with a capital of half a million dollars has -been formed that has secured possession of the springs, fourteen miles -distant. It has been “piped” to Coronado Heights and Coronado Beach and -the yield is now five million gallons per day, which can be easily -doubled by development. The water is used as drinking water at the hotel -and with carbonic gas it is bottled for shipment to all parts of the -country. If widely and liberally advertised, there is a fortune in -Coronado Springs. All the ice used on the premises is made from this -spring water, distilled, so that it is absolutely pure, which is more -than can be said of Rockland Lake or Maine ice. The machinery at the -hotel has a capacity of twelve tons per day. - -THE HOTEL.--The structure, which with the furniture cost one and a half -millions of dollars, is built around a quadrangular court 250 × 150 -feet, the court being another name for a beautiful and well-kept -tropical garden. This feature reminds you of the open garden about -which the United States Hotel at Saratoga is built (which house has -earned the name of “the model hotel of the world”), only the Coronado -garden is filled with tropical plants and trees, and beautiful flowers -bloom the year round. It never looks as do the gardens in Saratoga at -the end of September. There are orange trees, lemons, figs, loquats, -olives, limes, pomegranates, the banana, etc. - -Mention of limes calls to mind that by invitation of the courteous and -intellectual gentleman in charge of the Coronado nurseries, I cut a -large cluster of limes and sent it to a friend in New York as a -souvenir. Such a profusion of flowers you never saw, unless you have -seen Coronado. For instance, a short time ago, in this nursery, thirty -thousand roses were cut in one day from less than a quarter acre of rose -bushes, and the flowers were merely cut to save the bushes. Everybody in -the neighborhood carried away great baskets of roses to fill bags and -pillow-cases. - -We were loaded with flowers, cut from the trees and bushes, in the open, -as we walked through the paths of the nursery--actually “loaded,” for -the ladies of the party not only carried hands and arms flowing over -with flowers--but their necks and shoulders were thickly entwined with -smilax. The flowers included the delicate heliotrope, the sweet -honeysuckle and the sturdy camelia, and they also embraced many flowers -new and strange to us, for everything seems to grow here, side by -side--everything that grows in the temperate, semi-tropical and tropical -zones. - -The hotel is situated on the southeastern portion of a beautiful mesa -(the name here for a slight elevation) which slopes gradually, in -terraces, from its centre toward the Pacific ocean on one side and the -bay of San Diego on the other. No one style of architecture has been -followed, as the reader will see from the accompanying illustration. It -partakes of the Queen Anne style, also of the classic Norman era, -bringing up recollections of a grand old Norman castle: but the -architect has availed himself of different schools, producing a complete -and uncommonly beautiful whole. It is a striking object and the series -of buildings form a noble picture against the sky line when viewed four -or five miles distant--from San Diego or from the ocean. - -The projectors seem to have had a fancy for the biblical number seven. -The building covers seven acres; counting guest chambers, sixty parlors, -large and small, the private dining rooms and other public rooms, there -are in all seven hundred rooms, and there is accommodation for seven -hundred boarders. - -Why one side of the house is enclosed in glass I cannot understand, when -you can sit out doors every day in the year and bask in the sun. This is -a good arrangement for Atlantic City, but not necessary, it seems to me, -for Coronado Beach. - -THE DRAWING-ROOM.--This is not a cold, bare and barn-like apartment such -as you find the parlors in so many American hotels. It is cozy and -home-like, with an air of marked refinement. The dark walls are relieved -with some choice engravings, and here and there you’ll meet with a -living plant, and there is always a vase or two filled with fresh -flowers, such as greet the eye and please the sense of smell (in summer -time) in an English country hotel, say in the Lake district. The -Coronado parlor is cheerful, and with its low ceiling and pillars of -unpainted wood, calls to mind the beautiful parlor of the (Spanish) -Hotel Cordova in St. Augustine. In fact Mr. Babcock tells me that some -of the features of the house are reminiscent of the grand hotels in -Havana, where he lived for some time. - -OTHER PUBLIC ROOMS.--But beside the drawing-room there are a number of -other large and beautiful apartments near by--the ladies’ billiard-room, -the reception-room, writing-room, chess-room, etc.,--something like the -elegant public rooms (which are not so very public) in the Hotel -Victoria, London. There are a dozen or more suites of rooms with private -parlor for each suite, opening on the garden. - -THE DINING-ROOM.--This is unique. At first glance, especially if you are -in the middle of the room, which is oval, it strikes you as rather bare, -monotonous and inartistic; very practical, with room for six hundred -people, but not entirely pleasing. But the longer you stay the more you -admire, particularly if you are lucky enough to get a table near an end -of the room, either that end which overlooks the garden or the end from -which you can see the ocean, the bay and the mountains beyond. It -measures 176 × 66 feet, and the ceiling is distant from the floor 33 -feet. The whole immense apartment, floor, walls and ceiling, is of light -colored wood--white Oregon pine and solid oak worked into panels of all -sizes and shapes conceivable. The materials and light colors, or color -rather, are suitable to this climate and in time you get to like them. - -The breakfast room is no miniature apartment either, 47 × 56 feet, with -ceiling as high as the dining-room ceiling. It is far more attractive to -my eye, its floor being carpeted, and having a high dado of California -redwood, which serves to relieve the lighter woods. But Americans demand -size for their beauty, and they have it in the dining-room with its -floor area of 10,000 feet. To quote the writer of a pamphlet, “it fills -the beholder with an astounding admiration.” Better than that, to my -taste, they have a skilful _chef_, and he fills your platter with most -appetizing dishes--if you get a good waiter. - -WHERE THEY DANCE.--In the extreme southwest corner of the building is -the ball-room, with an extended view of the beach and the ocean; indeed, -you cannot get away from the ocean unless you get away from Coronado. -The designer of this room has also “gone in” for size. It is a circular -room, no less than 60 feet high and 120 feet in diameter, giving a floor -area of 11,000 square feet. Too much room for a small “dance,” but -splendid for a ball or grand concert. - -A feature of the ball-room is a stage for amateur theatricals, which, -for size and appointments in the matter of lights, would not discredit a -regular theatre. - -A RICH AND ROYAL SUITE.--Taken as a whole, there are more prettily -furnished bedrooms in Long’s Hotel, London, than in any other hotel I -have ever seen. The tower rooms in the Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, -Georgia, are large and remarkably beautiful, and the bridal suite in the -Ponce de Leon is supposed to be very choice, but the Ponce de Leon -“show” apartments will not compare in beauty nor in completeness of -detail with the bridal suite in Hotel del Coronado. These rooms in the -Coronado are not so palatial in size nor in the matter of costly -frescoes as the rooms in the London Métropole, in which I found Mr. and -Mrs. Augustin Daly last October, but they certainly are among the most -tastefully furnished hotel bedrooms I have ever seen, and it is not -surprising that the photographic views of these apartments find many -purchasers. - -The window has an eastern view that is extremely pleasing. To the right -are seen the ocean’s rough breakers, to the left is the smooth bay of -San Diego, while to the immediate front, as you lie in bed, if the -curtains are parted and you are awake at 6.20 A. M., you can see the sun -creeping up behind a range of great mountains, miles and miles away. The -soft cloud of black smoke curling from the tall, round, red brick -chimneys of the electric light engine house between you and the golden -sky beyond, does not mar the picture in the least. - -Across the centre of the principal room of the suite are three arches, -supported by the side walls and by two wooden fluted columns, and under -the arches are heavy portières of double silk, salmon pink on one side, -old gold on the other. The windows are draped elaborately and -beautifully--light blue silk shades, lace curtains next to the windows, -with inner curtains of heavy pale blue silk, lined with silk of a rose -tint. The furniture is of mahogany, upholstered with blue silk plush, -the carpet is a rich moquette in delicate colors, and the toilet set is -in Haviland Limoges decorated in deep blue, white and gold. The ceiling -is daintily frescoed. From its centre depends a three-light electrolier; -from the wall, over the bureau mirror, juts out a bracket with two -electric lamps. The mantel is ornamented with two side pieces of Limoges -and a bronze cathedral clock--a miniature representation of the clock in -the Houses of Parliament, in Westminster. If you do not get from these -notes the idea of a luxurious and tasteful apartment, the fault is not -with those who furnished it, but with the pen which has failed to -describe it. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. - - -SANTA CRUZ, CAL., March 27, 1891. - -In area, Santa Cruz county is one of the smallest in California, but in -resources, productiveness of soil and natural attractions it might be -called the largest in the State. In its equable climate is grown almost -everything indigenous to the north temperate zone. - -The county is in central California, eighty miles south of San -Francisco; it has a coast line of forty miles, and includes, according -to the United States Government survey, 280,000 acres. So rich is it -that there are not more than five thousand acres of waste land in the -entire county. South of this is the Pajaro Valley, the most fertile spot -of California, called “the wonder of the Pacific.” - -There is not much stock-raising in Santa Cruz county. The mountains, -being heavily timbered, are not adapted to grazing. Nor are citrus -fruits cultivated to any great extent; but the apples of Santa Cruz -county are superior to any grown in the State, the quality of the wine -is unsurpassed in the State, and the remarkable richness of the soil -renders the cultivation of potatoes, beans, hops, sugar beets, etc., -profitable to a degree unknown in less fertile sections. The vegetable -products of the county form one of its most extensive industries. E. S. -Harrison, a trustworthy authority in California history, calls Santa -Cruz “a vegetable wonderland.” - -Let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region by a comparison. -While riding on the Southern Pacific railway over the Texas plains, a -month ago, the travelling auditor of the company, who was on our train, -surprised me by stating that the company is glad to lease its lands at -four cents an acre annually. Land within a couple of miles of where this -is written is leased to Chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre -annually, and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three -hundred dollars. - -The City of Santa Cruz, the principal city and county seat of the -county, lies between the Pacific ocean and the northern side of Monterey -bay, about eighty miles south of San Francisco. It nestles among the -foot-hills of the Santa Cruz mountains, and its outskirts are bathed by -the sea. The city proper has a population of six thousand five hundred, -and if East Santa Cruz is included, the population is about nine -thousand. The city is growing rapidly. New business houses are -constantly going up, capital is coming from the East, and everywhere are -evidences of a steady, healthy increase. - -Santa Cruz has good railroad facilities. Two branches of the Southern -Pacific run here direct. They are called the broad gauge and the narrow -gauge roads. The broad gauge is an important line running through Santa -Clara and Pajaro valleys, passing San José and the larger towns between -San Francisco and Monterey. The narrow gauge runs from San Francisco no -farther south than Santa Cruz. It is more of a local line and stops at -the smaller places--places, however, of such great interest to tourists -as Big Trees. The steamers of the Pacific Steamship Company plying -between San Pedro (near Los Angeles), and San Francisco stop here, -regularly, on their way north and south. - -In writing from Hotel del Monte in Monterey, I mentioned some large oaks -and pines; there are as big and still bigger trees here, or very near -here, at a place appropriately named Big Trees. It is a ten minute ride -on the narrow gauge road of the Southern Pacific, or an hour’s drive by -carriage from Santa Cruz. You need not go to Yosemite, Calaveras or -Mariposa to see giants of the forest; here they are, a grove of 320 -acres, some of the trees 300 feet high and 46 feet in circumference. -These figures are quoted, but I measured a few specimens myself. One -about four feet from the ground was 52 feet in circumference. The -interior of another, “General Fremont,” had been burned out. Four -persons beside myself stood inside of it, and thirty-five more, we -calculated, could have found room in comfort. This measured six feet in -diameter about five feet from the ground--inside measurement--the -“shell” of the tree being probably a foot thick. There are dozens and -scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove, nearly as large. - -The trees are of the famous California Redwood species, the wood hard as -flint and very heavy. The largest specimens are named and bear tablets, -“Daniel Webster,” “General Grant,” “General Sherman,” “Ingersoll’s -Cathedral,” etc. Under the shadow of the last named, the honorable -gentleman held forth one day to an admiring audience. “Big Trees” is -owned by a wealthy widow of San Francisco, Mrs. Walsh. - -Powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest, some of them have -been uprooted by nature’s convulsions and lie humbly and horizontally on -the ground. I noticed that a few of these were charred. The keeper of -the grounds explained that year after year fire had been tried, but the -hardy giants would not yield to flame. They are so thick and hard they -won’t burn as they lie. “Then why not cut them up,” I suggested. “Oh!” -was the answer, “lumber is worth nothing here; it is so plentiful.” - -They have done a little “cutting,” however. In exchange for a dime you -will get a piece of red wood quite heavy enough for your satchel, or a -piece of the bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket. The bark is -three or four inches thick. - -This is a famous wine country. We visited the tunnels of the “Santa Cruz -Mountain Wine Company,” whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on -the hills. The tunnels are dug out of the soft, sand-stone rock and are -dark and rather cool. That is to say, the air seemed cool when compared -with the atmosphere outside, but as a matter of truth, which is often -stranger than fiction, the thermometer showed the temperature in the -tunnels to be 52 degrees, and it remains at about that figure all the -year round. There are three such tunnels, each 380 feet long, 24 feet -wide, and 18 feet high. The vineyards of the company include two hundred -acres. - -In these deep, cool tunnels the company has stored in great vats no less -than two hundred thousand gallons of wine. Bottle after bottle was -opened for our party and so cheaply was it held that the glasses were -freely washed with the wine as the different kinds were tasted--port, -sherries, clarets and white wines. - -The claret has good body, and if you add a little water to it, as the -French treat _vin ordinaire_, it makes a very good drink for a thirsty -soul at the dinner table. - -California Angelica has been a popular wine for twenty odd years: the -Angelica produced in Santa Cruz is sweet, smooth, oily and delicious. - -A brand of Sauterne so pleased my palate that I ordered twenty gallons -to be shipped to New York. But I’ll let you into the secret of this -seemingly extravagant order; the price is only one dollar per -gallon--and not Jones, but I, paid the freight. In ordering this wine I -was guided first, by my own taste--it has delicious flavor; secondly, I -felt assured that it was absolutely pure. The grapes are here, on the -spot, ship loads of them, in the season, and there’s no incentive for -adulteration. - -The well-kept roads and fine drives about Santa Cruz are not its least -attractive feature. One of them you can take from the shore, driving -over a bridge of the San Lorenzo river, passing Phelan Park and the twin -lakes, on the borders of which are the summer home and settlement of the -Christian Church. You keep the mountains in view all the way, and a turn -here or there shows you the city, the bay, or the ocean. - -The three-mile cliff drive takes you immediately above the rock-bound -shore of the Pacific, where you see giant crags upon which the -everlasting waves have had their effect. Some of the rocks stand off -from the shore twenty and fifty feet, and through these the powerful -waves have worked great holes, through which the waters rush with a -tumultuous roar, dashing their spray far above. These “natural bridges” -would be considered a rare sight if they were the only feature of this -scene, and would attract people from a distance, but where there is so -much to admire and astonish, they are only one among the many marvels -that here make an embarrassment of pictorial riches. - -The city has two banks, good public schools and water-works; it is -sewered to the ocean, it has horse-cars, fine public buildings, and two -flourishing newspapers, the _Sentinal_ and the _Surf_. Good society is -not lacking, and beautiful homes abound. Duncan McPherson has a fine -Gothic villa; the residence of Mayor Bowman commands beautiful views of -the bay and the town; the home of William Kerr, two miles out of the -city, is a handsome structure in the Queen Anne style, having two wide -entrances and bay windows, affording extensive views of the valley and -bay. Colonel A. J. Hinds, a pioneer of Santa Cruz, has built himself a -charming home, and Mrs. P. B. Fagen’s house on Mission street, one of -the principal residential streets, attracts the attention of all -passers-by. Other pretty homes are those of D. K. Abeel, R. Bernheim, -Mr. Glover and Mrs. E. J. Green. - -Mr. J. Philip Smith, a New York capitalist, who has travelled far and -wide and who passes much of his time in Europe and New York, came here -with his family four years ago, bought a two-acre site upon which a fine -house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed, laying out the -grounds in a tasteful way, making it one of the handsomest residences in -Santa Cruz. It has a high and enviable position near the Sea Beach -Hotel. - -It reminds you at once upon entering it of a Parisian interior and on -closer examination you are not surprised to learn that many of the -things of beauty which adorn the rooms had a French origin. The Smiths -are great travellers and in their journeyings about the world have -“picked up” any number of art works and curios which now find an -appropriate resting place. - -One of the finest views here, one of the most beautiful of its kind in -the State probably, is to be had from Logan Heights, the estate of Judge -J. H. Logan. Judge Logan is president of the Santa Cruz bank and one of -the most esteemed citizens of this section. The house, not imposing -architecturally, stands on a mesa or plateau of about twenty acres, in -which beautiful roses and other choice flowers bloom the year round. -From this elevated position a series of bird’s-eye views are spread out -before you, the extent, beauty and variety of which are not easily -described. - -At this point you are two hundred feet above the Pacific ocean. -Immediately below, in the foreground, is the whole city of Santa Cruz, -with its high school, its gardens, reservoirs, depots, hotels, and its -church spires. To your left, eastward, are the villages Soquel and -Aptos, famous lumber centres. A few miles further off in the same -direction, glistens Monterey bay, backed by the Santa Cruz mountains. - -Southward, beyond the city at your feet, winds the bay of Monterey. Look -twenty miles further south, and, in this clear atmosphere, you see the -sleepy old town of Monterey with the mountains as a background for the -picture. - -To your right, westward, is the ocean again--altogether, forming a -number of diversified and beautiful pictures. - -There are a number of good hotels at Santa Cruz--the Pacific Ocean -House, the Wilkins House and Ocean Villa. The last named looks cozy and -comfortable as it stands in its own pretty garden, with a commanding -view. The leading house is that owned by D. K. Abeel, the Sea Beach -House, which he has recently enlarged and reconstructed, putting in all -the modern improvements, and putting in as landlord John T. Sullivan, -who, after securing a long lease, furnished it in good style. It was -designed by G. W. Page, a prominent architect of San José, and presents -a most pleasing appearance, viewed either from the heights or from the -shore, above which it stands nearly one hundred feet, and to which its -grounds, beautifully terraced and ornamented with flowers, gracefully -slope. “Modern improvements,” of course--every room in the Sea Beach -Hotel has running water, but the improvements include hot water also. - -The parlor is on the main floor, in the corner round tower of the -building, and, with its many windows, is uncommonly pleasing. Through or -from these windows you get the best features of the scenery hereabouts, -from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel grounds to Loma Prieta and -the mountains in the distance, or to Monterey, beyond the bay in the -foreground. - -The lessee, Mr. Sullivan, is not unknown to New York. He was a tried -friend of Horace Greeley’s and a trusted officer under Hon. Thomas L. -James in the New York Post-office, in which place he rose after faithful -service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the newspaper -department. Mr. Sullivan has been in Santa Cruz only five or six years. -I saw a modest little two-story building in which he started here, -“keeping boarders,” and he now finds himself in the leading hotel of the -town, owning his own furniture, a fine stable, and with the prospect of -making his fortune. With success Mr. Sullivan has made many staunch -friends, among them the mayor of the town, judges, bank presidents and -other leading citizens. - -The steamship landing is nearer the Sea Beach Hotel than it is to any -other house; the broad guage station is at the door, so to speak, and -the narrow guage station is two minutes walk around the corner. The -house is open all the year. Santa Cruz is attractive in winter, but in -summer it must be delightful. - -[Illustration: NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.] - - - - -REDONDO BEACH. - - -REDONDO BEACH, CAL., March 13, 1891. - -New Orleans obtained its sub-title from the crescent shape of its banks -on the Mississippi river. The trend of the Pacific shore here suggested -the pretty name, “Redondo,” in Spanish, signifying round. - -It is midway between Capistrano, south, and Point Duma, north, and is -sixteen miles in a southwest direction from Los Angeles, from which city -there are several trains daily over two roads--the Santa Fé and the new -Redondo Beach railroad. All passenger steamers to and from San Francisco -and way points stop at Redondo. - -Three years ago Redondo was a waste, or at best it was a cattle ranch. -There was not a house nor a hut here, now it is a garden spot of -Southern California. It came into existence as if by magic, as do many -flourishing towns on the Pacific slope. - -Beautifully situated on grounds rising gradually from the ocean, backed -by rich, tillable lands and ranges of green hills, with seaport -facilities not surpassed in California south of San Francisco, its rapid -growth is not surprising. - -The creation of Redondo, according to plans which promise such a -satisfactory result, is due to Californians--men of irrepressible energy -and wide experience in large affairs--Captain J. C. Ainsworth, Captain -R. R. Thompson and Captain George J. Ainsworth, not captains by -courtesy, either. They planned and have established successfully -railroad and steamship lines in Oregon and the northwest. - -That they have ample capital at their command may be judged by a few -figures given at random. Their first step was to buy one thousand acres -of land; second, to build a railroad and wharf; third, to secure an -ocean front of _one mile_, then to erect a hotel four hundred and fifty -feet long to accommodate three hundred people. It was first opened May -1, 1890. - -In the hotel they built a music room, 48 × 80 feet, spending two -thousand dollars simply on an inlaid floor; there is a tennis court -which cost seven thousand dollars; they laid a Portland cement walk from -the station to hotel, sixteen feet wide and a quarter of a mile long, -expending another ten thousand in that way--altogether it is easy to -believe that checks for more than a million have been drawn in the -enterprise. These Californians, with their big trees and their -forty-thousand-acre ranches, do nothing in a small way. - -Do you ask what are the natural attractions of the place? “First, last -and all the time,” there is the almost wonderful climate--genial, balmy -and equable, such as you will find nowhere but in Southern California. -The hotel proprietor tells me that the average winter temperature is 61 -degrees. In case you should not care for figures at second hand, here is -a record from my own thermometer. Yesterday, March 12, noon, 68, this -morning at seven it registered 53; at this writing, eight P.M., 60, the -instrument hanging outside my window. - -The summer here, I am assured, and I firmly believe, is more delightful -than the winter, and the hotel will be kept open the year round. Like -the Hygeia at Old Point Comfort, Redondo attracts people from a distance -in winter; in summer it is largely patronized by residents of San -Francisco, Los Angeles and other cities of the State. - -I do not agree entirely with Mrs. Malaprop that “comparisons are -odorous.” They often serve a very useful purpose in illustration. At any -rate I am given to the habit of comparing, be it a good or a bad habit. -What is large or small, fine or coarse, hot or cold, wet or dry, good or -bad, except by comparison? - -For once, however, I am put to my wits’ ends for comparison. Redondo is -like no place on the Atlantic coast, because, although directly on the -seashore, every foot of ground, almost up to the edge of the ocean, is -covered with fine grass; and the most tender flowers grow and flourish -in profusion everywhere, almost within a few feet of the surf. This in -winter, mind you--a Southern California winter, though. It is not so, -even in summer, on the Atlantic coast, in the United States, nor in -England. Yes, I have it: I can indulge in the old habit; the climate of -Redondo is like that in the South of France: in fact it is in the same -latitude: there! - -In the hotel nurseries, which are distant from the surf but a few -hundred feet, you may revel in roses, heliotrope, tulips, mignonette, -daisies, etc. There are tall calla lilies in plenty and the pleasing -sight of acres and acres of pinks of various colors is one that is very -fascinating. The hotel farm of two hundred acres, where choice stock is -kept, supplies the house with more than all the milk, cream, butter, -fruit and vegetables it requires. - -The hotel is only four stories high, yet there is an elevator; of course -electric lights and all modern improvements. Neither is the building -deep, but it has great length, to give views of ocean in front and of -green hills in the rear. It stands north and south thus affording ocean -views from three sides. Of the 225 rooms, every one has a sunny exposure -at some hour of the day; every one is well ventilated and lighted; every -one is an “outside room,” and every guest feels that his is the best -suite in the house. - -The porch is not one straight, unbroken line like the porches of so many -summer hotels in the east. It has a few graceful curves in it and from -it you may watch the craft sailing by--coast steamers to and from San -Francisco and other ports. The golden sunsets you may see from this -porch are such as no artist could represent. It is not within the -possibilities of paint and canvas to reproduce such gorgeous scenes. On -a clear day without the aid of a glass Catalina island is visible thirty -miles away. - -The dining-room of the hotel juts out in a northerly direction and has -windows on three sides. From a distance it looks as if it might have -been an after-thought in construction, but the architect planned it this -way, to give what was most desired--light, ventilation and pleasing -views, and he succeeded. - -Two hundred and sixty can sit down to dinner at one time. - -There are no loose wardrobes nor clothes presses; all the bedrooms have -closets built in the walls. Every room is supplied with hot and cold -water running into marble basins. Every room has a tiled fireplace in -color and design to match the carpet, and what is also worthy of -mention, the furniture in the bedrooms is not duplicated, nor are the -carpets. - -The drinking water is from an Artesian well. It has been analyzed and -pronounced pure. The plumbing seems to have been done in a careful -manner, and the question of sewerage need give nobody concern. The hotel -stands on a _mesa_. The refuse goes through an iron pipe and empties -into the sea half a mile from the house. - -There are no better fishing grounds on the coast, so they say. If you -are lucky with the line you may catch bonita, Spanish mackerel, -baracouta, smelt and yellow tails, whatever they are. - -The circular of the Redondo Hotel as to rates merely says, “same as any -first-class hotel.” This is hardly in accordance with the facts, as I -see them. The terms at the Redondo are from three to four dollars per -day, while hotels in the east, of the same class, charge from four to -five dollars. Why such low rates obtain in California hotels is -something I intend to find out before I leave the State. For illustrated -circulars address Redondo Hotel Co., Redondo Beach, Cal. - - - - -PASADENA. - - -PASADENA, March 10. - -People who care more for comfort than for great “style,” who prefer a -quiet, home-like, family house to one of noise and bustle, those who are -seeking health, pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than -the music, dancing and entertainments of a fashionable hotel may jot -down as a memorandum “The Painter Hotel, at Pasadena, Cal,” thirty-five -minutes by train from Los Angeles and fifteen minutes by “free ’bus” -from passenger station. - -It is a new house, was built in ’88; it accommodates seventy-five -boarders, and is owned and kept by J. H. Painter’s Sons. The house is -airy, the bedrooms are comfortably (not luxuriously) furnished, the -parlor is pleasant, the class of guests select, the table is well -provided, and at once, let me say, ere the important fact escapes me, -the rates are remarkably low for the nice appointments and good fare -supplied--only $2.50 per day for transient guests, and from $12.50 to -$17.50 per week to season boarders, for people come to stay for a month -or so--some spend the whole winter here. The house is open the year -round, it being pleasant in summer as well as in winter. It is a -mountainous district, and the ocean, from which come soft winds in -summer, is only thirty minutes’ distant in a south and southwesterly -direction. - -Yes, and here are two more facts--Pasadena is one thousand feet above -the sea, and the Painter Hotel, which is one and a half miles from the -centre of the town, stands on the highest point hereabouts. - -The grounds comprised in the property include ten acres, upon which the -owners grow their own fruits for the table--peaches, apricots, raisins, -prunes, etc. - -Do you want to visit the town? Street cars pass the door of the Painter. -And if you want a view it will “pay” you to climb up to the roof of the -hotel, where there is an observatory. Three miles off is the Raymond -Hotel, plain to your view in this clear atmosphere. On one side is the -San Bernardino range of mountains, on the other the Sierra Madre range. -You may see San Jacinto, ninety miles away, also Wilson’s Peak, upon -which the new observatory, with its powerful lens, is to be placed; and -beautiful San Gabriel valley is spread out immediately beneath you, a -feature of which, at this writing, are acres of large, orange-hued -poppies, so bright that you could almost imagine them aflame, especially -if the wind is blowing, thus giving vibration to the thin, delicate -leaves. - -The drives are a most delightful feature:--to the city proper, with its -wide avenues of beautiful residences, to San Gabriel mission, and to -“Lucky” Baldwin’s ranch, a pleasant afternoon drive. - -Those who are planning a winter or spring tour will thank me for -suggesting a visit to the Painter House, but if people demand “style,” -if they would dance to orchestral music; if they demand great size in a -dining-room and grandeur in the drawing-room, and they are willing to -pay for it, all these are also obtainable here, or rather at East -Pasadena, which is only three miles distant; eight miles from Los -Angeles. And the price, $4.50 per day, $21 to $28 per week, is -reasonable considering what you get for the money. - -Reference is made to the great Raymond Hotel, which was built in 1886, -where they have a bar, as well as billiards and bowling; elevator, -electric lights, a reception-room, music-room, grand parlor, and a -dining-room which accommodates three hundred persons. From your seat at -table you see “Old Baldy” looming above the clouds eleven thousand feet -and snow-covered ten months out of the twelve, looking like a great -sugar-loaf and recalling the Jungfrau, near Interlaken, Switzerland. - -Like the dining-room of its modest neighbor, the Painter Hotel, every -table in the Raymond is decorated daily with fresh flowers plucked from -the hotel grounds--this is “winter,” mind you. The grounds of the -Raymond cover a space of fifty-four acres, so there is no lack of fruit -(oranges, lemons, etc.), to say nothing of the roses, blue bells, -honeysuckle, dandelions, heliotropes and violets which may be picked _ad -libitum_--if you don’t regard the painted signs. - -A view from one of the Raymond’s verandas is not much unlike that from -the front steps of the Grand Hotel in the Catskills, only the former is -far more extensive. - -The proprietor of the Raymond is W. Raymond, of Raymond’s Vacation -Excursions, Boston, and the manager is C. H. Merrill, of the Crawford -House, in the White Mountains. The post-office address is East Pasadena, -Cal. - -Orange Grove avenue and Marengo avenue and the paths in the grounds -leading to the houses are lined with luxurious fan palm trees, -interspersed with great cacti and not a few century plants, which it is -proven here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years. The calla -lily, that delicate plant which is so tenderly cared for in the East -that the flower is wrapped in cotton wool, here grows in such profusion -that it is used for hedges. You will see fields of “callas” at Pasadena, -raised for shipment to large cities. The whole of Pasadena is like one -immense garden, a garden city indeed. - -PASADENA COTTAGES.--You would scarcely credit it, so I won’t tell you, -that some of the “cottages” in this new place are as large and -elaborate as those on the New Jersey coast, between Seabright and -Elberon, and some of them would not look out of place alongside the -grand Newport “cottages.” - -Mr. Kernaghan, editor of the _Pasadena Star_, has a fine home here. One -of the prettiest places belongs to and is occupied by Mrs. Kimball, the -widowed daughter of Rufus Hatch of New York. - -Charles Frederick Holder, formerly of New York, came out here six years -ago for his health, and having obtained it has made this his home. He -has a cozy cottage on Orange Grove avenue in which is his study, where -you may find him at his ease, wearing a short black velvet coat or -smoking jacket. - -Mr. Holder is a journalist and littérateur, a frequent contributor to -current magazines and leading newspapers. He has published two or three -brochures on Pasadena. One of his contributions concerning this section -was an illustrated article which appeared in _Harper’s Weekly_. It was -entitled “The Rose Tournament,” and described a beautiful ceremony which -takes place here annually, on New Year’s day. Mr. Holder’s style is -finished and scholarly and his language choice, with no waste of words. -Being a man of cultivated taste, with a rare poetic fancy, he is at home -here, when treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits and -flowers. - -Among others who have built houses and who occupy country seats at -Pasadena is Governor Markham, of California. A Mr. Nelmes has a lovely -ten-acre place, and with it a generous heart. A sign placed -conspicuously outside his gates reads as follows: “All are welcome to -drive through these private grounds and groves. Eastern tourists are -each invited to pluck one orange.” - -Near the Painter Hotel are many beautiful homes owned by “Eastern -people.” One is owned by Dr. Green, of Woodbury, N. J., another -luxurious place is that of Mr. McNally, of the publishing house in -Chicago of Rand, McNally & Co. - -Professor Low, of Norristown, Pa; J. W. Scoville, a Chicago banker, and -E. T. Hurlburt, a capitalist of Chicago, are owners of fine estates, and -of less notable places there are owners in Pasadena by the hundred. - -It strikes you as rather odd to find winter and summer together, hand in -hand as it were. At your feet flowers; raise your head and snow on the -mountain peaks is visible to the naked eye. - -The one-horse cars which ply between Pasadena and East Pasadena, -California, like some of the one-horse cars of some other cities, have a -driver who acts as conductor also, but the driver in the Pasadena cars -serves as collector as well. There is no automatical nor mechanical -contrivance to receive the fares, nor is there any way of recording -them. When a passenger gets on the driver leaves the front platform, -and, letting the horse take care of himself, or handing the reins to a -front-platform passenger, he runs back and collects the new fare. There -are not many cars on the line--one starts only every half hour--and as -most of the passengers are through passengers, and few get on or off -between the two points named, the animal being very docile, there is no -difficulty in one man doing the whole work. The driver getting on and -off his car reminds me of the elevator in Philp’s Hotel, Glasgow, which -will not budge upward if there are as many as four or five people in the -car. The man who runs it gives the rope a pull, on the ground floor, -then leaves the car, walks up the stairs, getting up to the second or -third flight in ample time to give the rope another pull and to let the -passengers out. - -Some people talk of the winter months in California as “the rainy -season.” This may be an old story, told of what was the case years ago. -It certainly is not true to-day. Examining the records, I find that -from January 5 to February 1 of this year there was no rain at all in -Pasadena, and in all of that time there were but two cloudy -days--January 23 and January 28. - -I have been in Southern California now for about three weeks and have -seen it rain only on two days and one night--two days in Los Angeles and -one night, for one hour, at Coronado Beach. - -I don’t advise you to throw away your umbrella, as did a tourist from -Colorado when coming here, but my experience would show that there is -very little use for such an article in Southern California, even in what -used to be called “the rainy season.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -LOS ANGELES - - -LOS ANGELES, March 17. - -If you are going from Los Angeles to San Diego, or vice versa, don’t go -by boat unless you have a great affection for the sea. First, you must -change at San Pedro, from cars to boat; second, the waterway occupies -much more time; but what is most important, if you go by rail, over the -Sante Fé route, you get magnificent and diversified views of the ocean, -close views of foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains. -You pass through a fertile country, see picturesque cottages, large -sheep and cattle ranches, and great rifts in the mountains that make you -smile when you think of “gaps” in the east, which are so widely -advertised. The train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles and -recalls similar scenic features of land and water which you admire in -travelling from Aberdeen to Ballater over the “Great North of Scotland -Railway,” a pretty little road with a big sounding name. If you should -have to stop on a switch, or for a “heated journal,” for five or ten -minutes, you can step off the car platform and in a few minutes you can -gather a large bouquet of sweet, wild flowers, among them fragrant -“mignonette” as they call it here. Southern California might well be -named the land of flowers, and this branch of the Sante Fé is entitled -to be called by that much abused term, picturesque. - -FLORIDA ORANGES “BEATEN.”--I wrote last season about some Florida -oranges which Mr. Orvis showed me at the Windsor Hotel, Jacksonville. -The largest of them, if I remember aright, measured thirteen inches in -circumference and weighed twenty-three ounces. I asked, “who can beat -these?” They are “beaten.” This morning I weighed an orange in Los -Angeles which turned the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured -nineteen and one-quarter inches. This particular orange was light for -its size, because it was not quite ripe nor “full” when picked. It came -from George Bunce’s grove (pray do not print this “grave”) at Rivera, a -small town nine miles from Los Angeles. The grove was only set out in -1888. All the oranges on the tree from which this one was picked were as -large and as heavy as the one described, but there were only three of -them. - -All the ticket brokers’ offices, all the fruit stores, segar shops and -all the shops of small traders and of places patronized by men have -their doors and windows thrown open during business hours. No -“protection” from the weather is needed. It is never cold enough for -closed doors or windows in the daytime. Nor are some of these places of -business closed even at night except by strong iron-wire netting -covering the fronts of the stores. This open feature strikes a visitor -as very strange at first, but one soon becomes accustomed to it. All -through the winter open street cars are used. - -Three years ago, when the Los Angeles boom was at its height, the -foundation was laid near Main street for what was intended to be the -largest hotel in the United States. There it stood and there it stands -to-day (the foundation), the bricks appearing just one foot above the -ground level. These bricks enclose a space of two acres. Pullman, of -sleeping-car fame, was one of those interested, and he says that the -idea has not been entirely abandoned. The idea may yet exist but the -open lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome. Meanwhile Mr. O. -T. Johnson erected a very handsome hotel, The Westminster, on the corner -of Main and Fourth streets, which will accommodate two hundred and fifty -guests. The site of the Westminster is choice; the house contains all -the modern improvements; it is well furnished and well patronized. - -As I write, in my bedroom of the Westminster Hotel, looking north I can -see, without rising from my seat, great high mountains covered with -snow. They present a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere, -with the sun shining upon them. - -That “cranky critic,” as the New York _Hotel Gazette_ calls Max O’Rell, -would be suited at the Westminster Hotel. O’Rell complains because in -American hotels guests have regular seats; that each person upon -entering the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he pleases. -The contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned. A notice is prominently -posted near the elevator which reads: “Positively no seats reserved in -the dining-room.” The waiters are young, intelligent American girls of a -good class, some from New York and some from Nebraska, all uniformed in -white. They look neat and clean, are alert to take an order and quick in -serving it. - -Strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to-day’s luncheon in -the Hotel Westminster. Fresh-picked strawberries are served every -morning for breakfast. Not a dozen or two small, hard berries, such as I -have seen served for a “portion” at hotel tables in Florida during -February, but a saucerful for each guest of large, ripe berries that -have a delicious flavor. Strawberry ice-cream was on the dinner -menu--the cream made, not from “strawberry flavoring,” but of the honest -fruit. Fresh peas and Lima beans figure on the bill, also oranges in -profusion, picked from the groves hard by. - -All the way between New Orleans, La., and Los Angeles, Cal., on the -Southern Pacific railroad, you pay five to ten cents each for oranges; -as soon as you reach Los Angeles, boys with baskets of the golden fruit -swarm about the cars crying out, “Oranges, three for a nickel, six for -a dime.” If you have a little patience you will hear, “Oranges, eight -for a dime,” and if you wait till the train is about to start you can -get ten for a dime. Possibly after you are out of hearing they are sold -at ten cents a dozen. - -In the cars of the Southern Pacific railroad that run between Los -Angeles and the seaport town of San Pedro appears this printed notice: -“WARNING:--Passengers are hereby warned against playing games of chance -with strangers, of betting on three card monte, strap, or other games. -You will surely be robbed if you do.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE CALIFORNIA. - - -SAN FRANCISCO, April 1, 1891. - -California being one of the largest of these United States, the -Californians thought that their chief city should have large hotels, so -they built in San Francisco the Baldwin House, the Lick House, the -Occidental and larger than any of these, the Palace Hotel, “larger than -any hotel in existence,” it is claimed. Whether this claim is well -founded or not, the Palace is large enough to suit the most extravagant -American ideas. It occupies three acres of ground. It has seven hundred -and fifty-five bedrooms; number of rooms all told, ten hundred and -fifteen. - -But with the growth of the State and the growth of culture and good -taste, Californians and tourists from other States demanded something -above and beyond mere size; and so a few months ago was erected “The -California.” There are several “California Hotels” in San Francisco, in -fact, an old house directly opposite the California now calls itself -“The New California,” probably because the name is new. So many houses -with names near alike give trouble to the Post-office people, but the -title of the house of which I write is simply “The California.” - -It is in a central and accessible part of the city--in Bush street, just -off Kearney street, which runs nearly parallel with Market, being not -far from the _Chronicle_ building, which with its great clock tower -running up hundreds of feet in the air, serves as a finger or sign-post -from many parts of the city. - -The front is of cedar-colored sandstone, and with its modern, low-arched -entrances and high, round towers, is uncommonly pleasing to the eye. -There are one hundred and forty rooms in the house, and it is nine -stories high, the higher floors being most desirable. The light is -better as you ascend, and the views from the windows across the bay and -the Golden Gate are a constant delight. From my bedroom window I can -plainly see the graceful movements of the white squadron, which, with -the green hills in the far distance make a magnificent picture. The -California was erected by “an estate,” and the estate considered not the -expense. They started out with the idea to build a hotel as near -perfection as possible, and they succeeded. - -Every known precaution is taken against fire. It was the intention from -the first to build a house as proof against fire as men, money and -materials could make it. Scientists were consulted as to sanitation and -plumbing, and to these points special thought and attention were given, -Such luxurious fittings in marble and silver plate I have never seen -surpassed, if equalled; not even in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour -through the South and West, and I have visited hotels that cost all the -way from one to three millions of dollars. - -Instead of marble and brass, which are used so freely in large American -hotels, rare and beautiful woods prevail in decorating the interior of -the new house. The ground floor is finished in quartered oak, the second -in bird’s-eye maple, the third and fourth in sycamore, the fifth and -sixth in red birch, and the seventh, eighth and ninth in oak. The wood -was cut, carved and polished especially for the building, and is of the -most exquisitely beautiful grain. - -Max O’Rell would be pleased. Printed rules are not posted on all the -bedroom doors: it would be an act of vandalism to thrust a nail into -hard wood of such high polish and beautiful grain. The furniture and -carpets harmonize in colors and are very rich: there seems to have been -no thought of economy. The bedrooms are furnished as you would furnish -your own apartment, provided you had a large bank account. They only -lack pictures, mantel ornaments and such dainty etceteras, as you find, -for instance, in the bedrooms of Long’s Hotel in London, to give them a -finished, homelike and elegant air. - -Some idea as to the extent to which this wood decoration is carried, may -be gained when it is told that the wood used to decorate the parlor and -music-room cost six thousand dollars, and yet they are small apartments -when compared, say, with those of the Windsor Hotel, New York. - -The music-room adjoins the parlor, and is only separated from it by a -pair of portières. It is circular, with a frescoed dome. It is only -twenty-four feet in diameter; but a veritable bijou is this music-room. -It has tables and a cabinet of onyx, pieces of statuary and bronze, two -piano lamps and a pedestal upon which stands a vase decorated with -scenes painted by a French artist. The vase itself is three feet high. -There are two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room curtained -in front. Occasionally these recesses are put to a very good use. I have -seen young couples, a modern Claude and Pauline, engaged in very close -conversation behind the curtains, whispering “soft nothings” to each -other. “Soft” without doubt were the words spoken, and, so far as I -heard, they amounted to nothing. - -In the central front wall of this room there is a window, and pendant in -this window is a colored lamp in which electric light is continually -burning. There are similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy -recesses--the scene, with its Moorish surroundings, reminding you of an -Oriental synagogue, in which there is a similar lamp, and in which, -according to Jewish custom in public places of worship, the light is -never allowed to go out. Of electric lamps, there are twenty-five -hundred in the house. - -There is a ladies’ waiting-room which is strictly reserved for ladies; -there is a ladies’ billiard-room, as well as one for gentlemen; there is -a banqueting-room for public dinners at the top of the house, and at the -bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a stock of choice -wines valued at twenty thousand dollars. - -The European plan is gaining in popularity in this country. When you -proceed to write your name on the register at the Palace Hotel the clerk -asks, “European or American plan?” At the California no such question is -propounded; it is kept entirely on the European plan. - -But they have a restaurant which is a feature, if not the feature of the -house. It measures 120 × 30 feet, it has tiled floor, mirrored walls, -beautifully decorated ceilings and countless electric lamps. During the -dinner hour a band, stationed in a half-hidden gallery at the end of the -restaurant, performs music that is properly called pleasing--light -selections which suggest good cheer, and which no doubt aid digestion. -The restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the interior, -and such is its popularity that it is patronized by many people who are -not otherwise guests of the house. - -It is equal in style of service to any café I know of--to the Café -Savarin or the Brunswick in New York; in fact, the manager, A. F. -Kinzler, is a son of Francis Kinzler of the Brunswick. - -The question of moustached waiters was easily settled at the California. -They are skilled and experienced French and Swiss waiters, and there was -no demur to the order, shave the upper lip. - - - - -SALT LAKE CITY. - - -SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, April 6, 1891. - -On the last Sunday of last September I was one among the five thousand -people who enjoyed the masterly eloquence of Spurgeon at his Tabernacle -in London; to-day, Monday, I was in the Mormon Tabernacle, where a -conference was being held, and in which were gathered as many people as -the great building would hold,--seated and standing, twelve thousand. - -Several Mormon elders held forth, but what they said did not -particularly interest me. It was, for the most part, a defense of their -form of “religion,” and they claimed they had a right, in this free -country, to teach and practice their peculiar doctrine. - -The acoustic properties of this great edifice are excellent; I tested -them in different parts of the house, and heard almost every word that -was said by the several speakers. Each spoke but for a short time, ten -or fifteen minutes. - -The most interesting part of Monday’s “session” to my mind was the -musical part, a chorus of two hundred and fifty male and female voices -singing to the rich and powerful tones of what is claimed to be the -largest organ but one in the world. - -A strange feature of the assemblage was the great number of young -children and babes in arms; the crowd of baby carriages in the halls and -entrances being very noticeable. - -The exterior of the Tabernacle, from its oval shape, is often likened to -half an egg bisected lengthwise; to me it looks like a tortoise, with -its low curved roof and its remarkably short pillars, only a few feet -apart. - -But it is a mammoth tortoise, 250 × 150 feet, with not a column nor a -pillar to obstruct the view--the largest span of unsupported wooden roof -in the world. - -The Temple in Salt Lake City, the corner-stone of which was laid on the -twelfth of April, 1853, is, like the municipal buildings in -Philadelphia, the City Hall in San Francisco and the Cathedral in -Cologne, still unfinished, although $3,500,000 has been expended in its -construction so far. The Temple’s dimensions are 200 × 100 feet. - -It is built entirely of granite. The towers are beautiful. When -completed they will be 200 feet high. A marble slab 12 × 3 feet is -inserted in the centre tower. Upon that slab appears this inscription in -gold letters: - -“Holiness to the Lord, the house of the Lord. Built by the Church of -Jesus Christ, of latter-day saints. Commenced April 6, 1853. -Completed”--space is left under the word “completed” in which to insert -the date, but that space may not be filled during the next quarter of a -century. - -The first blocks of granite for the building were hauled from the -quarries, a distance of twenty miles, by oxen, but for many years past -the granite has been brought to the city by a railroad planned -originally by Mormons. - -Salt Lake, on account of its unpaved streets, must be miserable as a -place of residence. In wet weather the mud in the streets is from six -inches to two feet deep, and in dry weather the dust is intolerable. It -is probably not quite so bad in these respects as Key West, Florida, but -it is always disagreeable enough. Yet the city is well laid out; all the -streets are over one hundred feet wide; there is a good system of -electric street-cars, and there are many fine granite and brick -business blocks. Salt Lake has an evident air of prosperity. Its -population has more than doubled in the past ten years. In 1880 it was -20,000; in 1890 45,000. - -Brigham street, the Fifth avenue of Salt Lake, contains not a few -private residences of which any city might be proud. - -The leading hotel is “The Templeton,” owned by a company of which D. C. -Young is president. The manager of the hotel is Alonzo Young. The -president and the manager are both sons of Brigham Young, but are half -brothers only. Brigham sleeps with a couple of his wives in a cemetery a -few hundred feet from the hotel. - -The Templeton is new and substantial, but it was not erected for a -hotel, and it lacks some conveniences which you expect to find. It is -better adapted for an office building, which was its original purpose. - -The dining-room is on the top floor, as is the dining-room of the -Auditorium in Chicago, and the Vendome in New York, and as is the -kitchen of the Windsor Hotel in London. - -From this room in the Templeton, if you secure a choice seat, you get -most magnificent views. You are surrounded by snow-covered mountains, -and to the west you see the principal buildings of the city--the Mormon -Tabernacle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall, all enclosed and fenced -within a ten-acre lot. - -We were unfortunate in the time of our visit to Salt Lake. The city was -crowded on account of the Mormon conference and all the hotels were -full. At the Templeton they had an insufficient number of waiters and -they served saucers of ice cream on warm plates. - -But perhaps we are hypercritical in our notes on the shortcomings of -hotels in Salt Lake; some allowance must be made for the fact that we -had just come from a week at “The California”--that new and beautiful -hotel in San Francisco which is kept by A. F. Kinzler, the comforts and -elegancies of which, fresh in our memory and with their flavor, so to -speak, still lingering on our palate, had for the time spoiled us for -less perfect accommodations and an inferior style of living. - -I had occasion to look at the city directory of Salt Lake and in turning -over the leaves I noticed that there are living no less than nine widows -of the lamented apostle of Mormonism, Brigham Young. - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE AUDITORIUM HOTEL. - - -CHICAGO, May 16, 1891. - -During his engagement here I met Mr. Willard, the English actor, walking -on Michigan avenue, with Mr. Hatton, the English dramatist, for -companion. - -“Mr. Willard, where are you staying,” I happened to ask. “At the -Richelieu,” said the handsome and intellectual-looking Englishman. “I -looked at the Auditorium,” he went on to say, “but it appeared to me too -large, and such a stronghold that it almost reminded me of a prison.” - -I am not surprised that its great size was an objection in his eyes, -because Englishmen prefer smaller, quieter and more home-like houses; -those great palaces in Northumberland avenue, London, were built rather -for American patronage. But that the Auditorium looks as solid and -strong as the rock of Gibraltar should not be regarded as an objection. -In the eyes of most people this is a great advantage, especially when we -remember the flimsy character of many of our hotels--those at the -seaside, for instance, or those in small towns, to say nothing of many -make-shift hotels in New York. - -Among other excellent features of the Auditorium building there is this -to commend it: it is called and is believed to be absolutely fireproof. -The first and second story outside walls are of dark granite, the upper -walls are of dark Bedford stone. The materials used interiorly are iron, -brick, terra cotta, Italian marble and hard wood. - -The whole structure covers one and a half acres. It stands on three -streets, Michigan avenue, Wabash avenue and Congress street, with a -frontage measuring seven hundred and ten feet. The height of the main -building is ten stories; there are eight floors in the tower--two above -the main tower--twenty stories in all; the entire height from street -level to top of tower two hundred and seventy feet. Some authorities -estimate the cost as high as four millions; the lowest estimate I have -seen printed or heard mentioned is three million two hundred thousand -dollars. It is possibly safe to say that about three millions were -invested in the enterprise, and I am told that it has yielded a profit -from the start--the hotel certainly has. - -The structure includes a theatre called “the largest and most -magnificent in the world”--the “Auditorium”--used for conventions and -meetings, having a stage and what is called “the most costly organ in -the world.” Of course, being Western, everything must be the biggest and -costliest. There is also a Recital Hall, which seats five hundred -persons. The business portion of the building includes stores on the -ground floor and one hundred and thirty-six offices above, some of which -are in the tower. The United States Signal Service occupies part of the -seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth floors of the tower. From this -tower you may get an extended view of the city when the fog from the -lake is not dense, and when the chimneys of the town are not emitting -black smoke. The best time to get a view is on a clear Sunday, when many -of the factory fires are extinguished. - -The Auditorium building is owned by “The Chicago Auditorium -Association,” and is managed by them; the hotel proper, which forms only -a part of the great structure, is managed by “The Auditorium Hotel -Company,” and is a separate business concern. - -It is kept on both the European and American plans. For those who choose -the former there is a grand café on the ground floor; for those who -prefer the latter there is a dining-room on the top floor, on which -floor the kitchen is also situated. To the dining-room two elevators are -constantly running. In the whole building there are thirteen elevators: -in the hotel proper there are eight elevators, five for the use of -guests, three for servants. - -Besides the café below, and the public dining-room above, there are a -number of private dining-rooms, and on the sixth floor there is a -banqueting hall which will seat five hundred people and which may be -called magnificent. It is built of steel, on trusses, and spans one -hundred and twenty feet over “The Auditorium.” On the panelled walls are -painted beautiful scenes in oil by skilled artists. - -It does not lack for light, this banqueting hall; it contains four -hundred electric lamps. In fact, the electric plant of the building is -the largest private plant in the world--it is Western, you know. Its -first cost was $100,000 and it costs to operate $175 per day. No -electric department in any place, either public or private, that I have -visited is cleaner, neater or more methodical in system. The tools are -hung on the walls, behind glass doors. No workman may remove a tool -without giving a receipt for the same and the tool must be returned to -its place immediately after it has served the purpose for which it was -removed or the man pays a fine. - -“The office” is not a small, unimportant looking apartment like the -“counting house” of an English hotel. It is after the American style, -large and showy, but there is not a waste nor a wilderness of space as -there is in some Chicago hotels, the “offices” in some of the Chicago -houses being used not only for a public rendezvous but also for a public -thoroughfare--people pass through them in going from one street to -another to save themselves the trouble of walking around the block. - -The floor of the office of the Auditorium Hotel is of Italian -marble--mosaic work in artistic designs. To go into figures again, -there are of mosaic floors in the house fifty thousand square feet, -containing fifty million separate pieces of marble, each piece put in by -hand. The ceiling, which is richly decorated, and from which depend -numberless electric lights, is supported in the centre by five marble -columns nine feet in circumference. The chairs and sofas, here and -there, are of oak, plush-covered, and the walls are of nothing less -luxurious than Mexican onyx, than which for the purpose probably no -material is richer. Leading from the office to the parlor floor there is -a white marble staircase twelve feet wide. This combination of rich -materials and artistic work, with ample space, gives the Auditorium -office a gorgeous, yes, a palace-like appearance. - -The dining-room on the tenth floor, measuring 175 by 48 feet, affords -extended views of the lake and a stretch of Chicago’s grand boulevard, -Michigan avenue, as far as the eye can reach. The lower part of its -walls is of mahogany panels; the six massive pillars which support the -ceiling are of mahogany, the tables and chairs and Venetian blinds of -the same costly wood. As well as six pillars, there are six arches in -this room, which also has an arched ceiling. The walls above the -mahogany dado up to the ceiling are in yellow and gold, the ceiling -delicately and beautifully frescoed. - -On one of the semi-circular arched walls above the mahogany pillars -which support it, is painted a lake fishing scene, on the other a -duck-shooting scene. The latter is taken from the estate of Ferd. W. -Peck at Lake Oconomowoc, Wisconsin. It represents two or three men in -sporting costume in a canoe, which is half hidden by tall grass and cat -tails. The man in the bow stands ready to take aim at a flock of ducks -which are preparing for flight. Mr. Peck is one of the originators of -the Auditorium enterprise and the present president of the company. - -There are five hundred electric lights in the dining-room; the floor is -of marble mosaic. For the American plan two dinners are served. You can -take your choice or eat both if your appetite serves; first dinner, from -twelve till two; evening dinner from six to eight. - -The bedrooms are heated by steam and also have fireplaces. Of course, -they are lighted by electricity. The bedroom in which this is penned -measures twenty-one by thirteen feet. As there is no step-ladder at hand -I must guess at the height of the ceiling--about fourteen feet. The -dimensions given do not include a very large clothes closet built in the -wall and a very small washroom, too small, indeed, but supplied with hot -and cold water. On either side of this bedroom are similar rooms each -having two heavy, double doors of oak, so that while the rooms are -“communicating” the sound is not “communicated” from one room to the -other. - -The walls are painted and frescoed in tints to match the wood-work, -which is of light varnished oak. Part of the furniture is of dark, -highly polished oak, the rest of cherry, covered with olive or old gold -plush. These hues in turn match the Wilton carpet which is bordered, and -upon which, here and there, is a handsome rug. - -The curtains are of reddish-brown plush, lined with old-gold silk; -inside these are lace curtains, and against the windows are Venetian -blinds of oak. The windows are of plate glass, large and massive--much -too heavy, in fact, or else the sashes are not put in by a master hand. -They are raised or lowered with great difficulty, notwithstanding a pair -of brass handles is attached to each lower sash. For such large, weighty -windows they have a better plan in the Windsor Hotel, London. Long, -loose ropes with light, wooden handles attached are fastened to the -upper and lower parts of the upper sash, and by this method the heavy -windows are raised or lowered with perfect ease. - -But I have wandered away in thought from my apartment in the Auditorium, -which is lighted by a handsome, seven-lamp electrolier pendant from the -ceiling, with a convenient tap just inside the door to turn on or off as -you enter or leave the room. - -There is an electric dial in each room, the invention of the New Haven -Clock Company. Upon this dial the inventor and hotel-keeper combined -have anticipated as many as twenty-four wants of the guest, from a -chambermaid to a doctor; from a telegraph blank to a hansom cab. Max -O’Rell may poke fun at this anticipation of so many wants in American -hotels, but if they had such an arrangement in Continental hotels, their -system would be greatly improved. - -You need not trouble yourself about good air or bad air at the -Auditorium: the house is ventilated automatically, by machinery. Among -other modern improvements is a letter chute which extends to the top of -the house. Your letters from any floor drop into a locked United States -post-office box, opened at intervals by the official carrier. - -There are four hundred and fifty rooms. As hotel men usually reckon -“about one and a half guests to a room” there is accommodation for six -hundred people. Charge for rooms: European plan, $2 to $5 per day; -American plan, $4 to $6 per day. - -The house is managed by James H. Breslin and R. H. Southgate. It is not -necessary to explain who these men are, and to commend them, at this -late day, would be no compliment. - - - - -MAX O’RELL ON AMERICAN HOTELS. - - -M. Paul Blouet (Max O’Rell) is a brilliant writer and a clever, -entertaining talker, but in his article in the _North American Review_ -for January, 1891, entitled “Reminiscences of American Hotels,” he shows -that he lacks fairness as a critic, and that he writes without the -necessary knowledge of his subject. His remarks concerning the American -methods of conducting hotels may be amusing, but when he makes -comparisons between English and American hotels and their systems, it is -evident that as a critic he is open to criticism. In his opening page he -says: - -“When you enter a hotel not a salute, not a word, not a smile of -welcome. The negro takes your bag and makes a sign that your case is -settled. You follow him. For the time being you lose your personality -and become No. 375, as you would in jail.” - -The facts are just the contrary. The clerks, porters and waiters in -American hotels are only too glad if they can learn your name. They will -pronounce it and announce you on the smallest possible provocation. Max -O’Rell’s remarks on this point would exactly fit if he were writing -about some large hotels in London patronized by Americans. At those -houses, the Langham excepted, you do not enter your name in a register, -and you are known only by the number of the room you occupy. If a friend -calls, his card will be carried about on a silver salver by a little -page whose duty it is, in going through the halls and public rooms in -search of you, to bawl out at the top of his voice not your name, but -the number of the apartment you occupy; and to this you are expected to -respond. - -But people are not so apt to know the hotel customs which obtain in -cities where they live, and that may account for M. Blouet’s ignorance. - -This French-English humorist tries to make it appear that in every -American hotel the fire-escape consists of “twenty yards of coiled -rope.” I believe that the New York State Legislature expects all hotels -in that State to make such provision, but if it is done in New York it -is certainly not the case in other States, as I know, for I have lived -at hotels in many States of the Union during the past few months, -westward as far as California, and as far south as New Orleans. - -Mr. O’Rell feels very much injured because order and method reign in the -dining-room. He says: - -“When you enter the dining-room you must not believe you can go and sit -where you like. The chief waiter assigns you a seat and you must take -it. I have constantly seen Americans stop on the threshold of the -dining-room and wait until the chief waiter had returned from placing a -guest to come and fetch them in their turn. I never saw them venture -alone and take an empty seat without the sanction of the waiter.” - -Chaos would reign indeed if the regular guests of a hotel had no regular -seats, and if every newcomer were allowed to sit where he pleased. Of -course the head waiter assigns seats. This good custom obtains in -England and France as it does elsewhere; without it there would be -confusion for all concerned. - -It would be strange if such a close and keen observer, as Max O’Rell -certainly is, did not make some good points in such a labored article. -He makes one when he objects to the solemn, almost funereal air which -pervades an American dining-room. People can be well mannered and yet be -and appear to be, in good spirits, whereas we seem to make a business, a -sad business of eating--it cannot be called “dining.” You seldom or -never hear such a thing as a laugh in our hotel dining-rooms, and yet -everybody knows that laughter is the best aid to digestion. There is a -time for everything, and when should there be good cheer if not at -dinner time? - -O’Rell shows that he is unfair and uninformed when he is discussing some -of the important features of our hotels, but he scores another good -point when he talks of the shameful waste of food in American hotels. I -quote in full his remarks on that head. They cannot be too often -repeated: - -“The thing which, perhaps, strikes me most disagreeably in the American -hotel dining-room is the sight of the tremendous waste of food that goes -on at every meal. No European, I suppose, can fail to be struck with -this; but to a Frenchman it would naturally be most remarkable. In -France where, I venture to say, people live as well as anywhere else, if -not better, there is a perfect horror of anything like waste of good -food. It is to me, therefore, a repulsive thing to see the wanton manner -in which some Americans will waste at one meal enough to feed several -fellow creatures.” - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -THE HOME JOURNAL, - -A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OF - -LITERATURE, ART AND SOCIETY, - -FOUNDED IN 1846 BY THE WELL-KNOWN POETS, - -GEO. P. MORRIS AND N. P. WILLIS, - -retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and art culture -which gives grace and refinement to social intercourse. - -Readers at a distance will find the best life of the metropolis -reflected in its pages. It is also in an especial sense an - -INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL, - -and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers into touch with -the social life of the - -GREAT EUROPEAN CENTRES OF CULTURE. - -THE HOME JOURNAL contains more advertisements of SUMMER AND WINTER -RESORT HOTELS, and devotes more editorial space to them than any other -newspaper. - -It has particular value as an advertising medium for EUROPEAN HOTELS, -being the organ of cultivated and fashionable Americans--those who pass -their summers in Europe. - -PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY. - -Subscription, $2.00 per Year. 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AUGUSTINE, -TAMPA, -PUNTA GORDA, - -=ALL FLORIDA POINTS, AND HAVANA CUBA.= - - -EASTERN OFFICES: - -_229 Broadway, New York._ -_33 South 3d St., Philadelphia._ -_228 Washington St., Boston._ -_106 East German St., Baltimore._ -_511 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington._ - - * * * * * - - ----TO ALL---- - WINTER RESORTS - ----IN---- - South Georgia, Florida, Cuba, the West Indies and Mexico, - Via HAVANA, CUBA, - REACHED BY THE - Plant System - ----OF---- - _RAILWAY AND STEAMSHIP LINES_, - - -In connection with Pennsylvania R. R., via New York, Washington and -Atlantic Coast Railways, and with the principal railway lines between -all cities of the West and South-west, forming through train and -sleeping-car service, and - - =JACKSONVILLE, ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA AND - PORT TAMPA, FLORIDA.= - - FAST AND COMMODIOUS STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN - -Port Tampa, Key West and Havana; Port Tampa and Mobile; Port Tampa and -St. James City (Pine Island), Punta Rassa, Fort Myers, Naples, and -resorts of the Gulf Coast; Port Tampa and Manatee River. - -The magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel, at Tampa, and the Seminole, at Winter -Park, on the South Florida R. R., are open during the season of Winter -Tourist travel, and are maintained at a high standard of excellence. - -The Inn at Port Tampa is open the entire year, and is in an attractive, -healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival and -departure of steamers and trains. - -For further information apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to - - J. D. HASHAGEN, EASTERN AGENT, - 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. - - FRED. ROBLIN, TRAVELING PASS. AGENT, - 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. - - H. B. PLANT, PRESIDENT, - 12 WEST 23D STREET, NEW YORK. - - * * * * * - -THE DE SOTO, - -SAVANNAH, GA. - -[Illustration] - - -One of the most elegantly appointed hotels in the world. Accommodations -for 500 guests. Special rates for families and parties remaining a week -or longer. Tourists will find Savannah one of the most interesting and -beautiful cities in the entire South. No place more healthy or desirable -as a winter resort. - -Send for Descriptive Illustrated Booklet. - - WATSON & POWERS. - - * * * * * - - _PARIS._ =HOTEL= _PARIS._ - - ANGLO-FRANÇAIS, - - 6 RUE CASTIGLIONE. 6 - - [Illustration] - - -This first-class Hotel, situated in the -best part of the metropolis, opposite -the Hotel Continental and the Tuileries -Gardens, is highly recommended for -comfort, cuisine, moderate charges and -sanitary arrangements; Otis American -elevator. - - VARGUES, Proprietor. - - * * * * * - - HOTEL BINDA, - - 11 rue de L’Echelle, - - AVENUE DE L’OPERA, =PARIS=. - -Large and small apartments; lift to each floor; smoking and -drawing-room; bathroom on each floor; table d’hôte, 6 francs, from 6 to -8 o’clock, at separate tables; restaurant a la carte. - - * * * * * - -ADVANTAGEOUS ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH FAMILIES WINTERING IN PARIS. - - * * * * * - -Electric Light all over the House. - - * * * * * - - CHARLES BINDA, PROPRIETOR, - Late with Delmonico, New York. - - * * * * * - - London, Chatham and Dover - RAILWAY. - - A. THORNE, - Formerly at H. B. Claflin & Co.’s, New York, - - AMERICAN REPRESENTATIVE IN ENGLAND, - - London, Chatham AND Dover Railway, - VICTORIA STATION, LONDON, S. W., - - -Attends the arrival of the principal steamships at Liverpool and -Southampton, and arranges for Special Saloon Carriages upon either the -North Western and Midland Railways from Liverpool, or by the South -Western Railway from Southampton to London, and thence to Dover from -Victoria Station by the =London, Chatham and Dover Railway=. From Dover to -Calais (the shortest sea passage to France) by the magnificent S.S. -“Calais-Douvres,” “Empress,” “Victoria,” and “Invicta,” owned and -controlled solely by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway Company. - -A. THORNE secures Private Deck Saloons, and from Calais to Paris and -other prominent points Special Saloons and Sleeping Cars as required. - - * * * * * - -=TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: “CALDOVER,” LONDON.= - - * * * * * - -The London, Chatham and Dover Company’s trains run from Victoria, St. -Paul’s and Holborn Stations through the prettiest and most picturesque -parts of Kent, and passengers have the privilege of stopping over at -Rochester to visit the Cathedral and the Castle, and at Canterbury to -view the Cathedral (containing the tomb of the martyr Thomas à Becket), -and other places of interest. - - * * * * * - - ARE YOU GOING TO EUROPE? - EDWIN H. LOW, - Low’s Exchange and General Steamship Office, - - 947 BROADWAY, MADISON SQUARE,--NEW YORK. - 57 CHARING CROSS, TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON. - - -=Choice Berths= secured on =ALL LINES= without =extra charge=. - -Cabin plans of all European and Coastwise Steamers on file, and complete -list of sailings of all Lines to any part of the world. Full and -reliable information given. - - -WHILE IN EUROPE - -have all your Letters and Cables sent care of Low’s Exchange, 57 Charing -Cross, Trafalgar Sq., London; they will be registered and numbered by -=Mr. Low’s own system=, whereby it is practically impossible for one to go -astray or be lost. They are promptly forwarded to any part of Europe, -according to instructions. - -[Illustration: NELSON MONUMENT.--VIEW FROM LOW’S EXCHANGE.] - - -POSTAL RATES: 1 year, $10.00; 6 mos., $5.00; 3 mos., $2.50; 1 mo., -$1.00. - -Low’s Exchange in London is established for the general convenience of -travelers. Railway and Steamship Tickets--to all parts--issued. Baggage -stored and checked, passports, steamer chairs, foreign moneys, letters -of credit cashed, American news and newspapers, &c. - - -LOW’S POCKET CABLE CODE - -is a handy little volume published by Mr. Low for cipher cabling. The -cost of cabling is twenty-five cents per word. By purchasing two copies -of this code you have 10,000 cipher words and phrases by which you can -reduce the expense at least four-fifths. It is alphabetically arranged -and so simple that anyone without the least knowledge of codes can -understand it. =Price, 50 Cents, bound in Cloth=. - - * * * * * - - THE CALIFORNIA, - BUSH STREET, NEAR KEARNY, - SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. - THE ACME OF PERFECTION ATTAINED IN AMERICAN HOTELS. - -[Illustration] - - -It is a recognized fact that San Francisco has made, from time to time, -the greatest effort to surpass all other cities in her Hotel -accommodations, and it must be conceded that the acme of perfection has -now been reached. - -The California was opened last December, and there is nothing on the -Pacific Coast, so far as artistic taste, elegance of appointments and -lavish expenditure go, which can compare with it. - -The California is unsurpassed in style of service by the best hotels of -the United States. Heretofore there has been no strictly European-plan -hotel in San Francisco. - -A visit to this city is incomplete without seeing the California, -unquestionably the most beautiful and luxuriously furnished hotel in -America. - - A. F. KINZLER, MANAGER. - - * * * * * - -MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA. - -[Illustration] - - MIDWINTER SCENES - - AT THE CELEBRATED - - Hotel del Monte, - - MONTEREY, CAL. - - AMERICA’S FAMOUS SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. - ONLY 3-1/2 HOURS FROM SAN FRANCISCO - _By Express Trains of the Southern Pacific Company._ - - -=Rates for Board=: By the day, $3.00 and upward. Parlors, from $1.00 to -$2.50 per day, extra. Children, in children’s dining-room, $2.00 per -day. - -=Particular Attention= is called to the _moderate charges_ for -accommodations at this magnificent establishment. The extra cost of a -trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference in -rates at the various Southern Winter Resorts and the incomparable HOTEL -DEL MONTE. - -=Intending Visitors= to =California= and the =Hotel del Monte= have the choice -of the =“Sunset,” “Central,” or “Shasta” Routes=. These three routes, the -three main arms of the great railway system of the =Southern Pacific -Company=, carry the traveler through the best sections of California, and -any one of them will reveal wonders of climate, products and scenery -that no other part of the world can duplicate. For illustrated -descriptive pamphlet of the hotel, and for information as to routes of -travel, rates for through tickets, etc., call upon or address =E. HAWLEY=, -Assistant General Traffic Manager, Southern Pacific Company, =343 -Broadway, New York=. - -_For further information, address_ - - _GEORGE SCHÖNEWALD, Manager Hotel del Monte_, - _OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND_. =MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA= - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: REDONDO HOTEL] - -This new but already popular seaside resort is located on the Pacific -Ocean, under the shelter of the prominent headland known as Point -Vincent, while to the south and east are the Palos Verdes and other -hills. - -The Redondo Hotel has been spoken of as the “crowning effort of all -hotels on the Pacific Coast,” covering over an acre of ground, reposing -gracefully upon a slight eminence “where the broad ocean leans against -the land,” with fine vistas of sea and shore meeting the eye in all -directions. Of the 225 rooms, every one has a sunny exposure at some -hour of the day, every one is well ventilated and lighted, every one is -an “outside room,” and every guest feels that his is the best suite in -the house. - -The building is supplied throughout with modern improvements. It has -incandescent electric lights in all the rooms and arc lights on the -grounds. There is cold and hot water and grates in every room. The halls -and lobby are heated by steam. The latest and most improved hydraulic -elevators are in use. - -On the hotel grounds is the best tennis-court in the State, -well-arranged and complete in every detail, with club-room, baths, etc. -There is also a nursery of several acres and a large green-house, where -the most beautiful and delicate flowers bloom the year round, and the -hotel draws from this source the freshness and fragrance of perpetual -spring. - -Redondo Beach is cooler than Cape May in summer, it is warmer than San -Fernandino in winter. The temperature of the water of the ocean varies -less than ten degrees in the course of a year, and surf bathing is -always enjoyable. The bathing beach is the finest on the coast, and is -provided with a commodious bath-house and every appliance for the -convenience and safety of the bathers. - -Special rates made for families and permanent guests. - -For further information address - - =REDONDO HOTEL CO.=, - Redondo Beach, California. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: The Sea Beach Hotel - -Located upon the Bluff. Commanding a view of Ocean, Bay, Beach, -Mountains, Flower Gardens, Tennis and Croquet Grounds and Promenades. - - JOHN T. SULLIVAN = Prop. - - 125 LIGHT AIRY ROOMS: - :FIRST CLASS SERVICE: - - SANTA CRUZ: CALIFORNIA. -] - - -The Sea Beach Hotel has large, light rooms, affording extensive views, -wide verandas, surf bathing, fishing. Livery. Electric lights and -electric bells. Rates from $2.50 per day. Illustrated Souvenir mailed -free. Address - - JOHN T. SULLIVAN, PROPRIETOR. - - * * * * * - - WINDSOR HOTEL, - - NEW YORK. - - HAWK & WETHERBEE. - - * * * * * - - - CONVENIENTLY SITUATED ON FIFTH AVENUE, NEAR THE GRAND - CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, ELEVATED AND SURFACE - TRAMWAYS, THEATRES, PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, - CHURCHES AND CLUBS. - - * * * * * - - HAS BEEN RECENTLY FITTED THROUGHOUT - WITH THE LATEST MODERN SANITARY - PLUMBING. - - * * * * * - - THE DRINKING WATER USED IS CHEMICALLY PURE AND THE ICE - IS MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER. - - * * * * * - - CUISINE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED. - - * * * * * - - COOL AND ATTRACTIVE IN SUMMER. - - * * * * * - - COMFORTABLE AND HOME-LIKE IN WINTER. - - * * * * * - - STAGES WHEN DESIRED, WILL MEET ALL STEAMERS AND CONVEY - PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE DIRECT TO THE - HOTEL AT MODERATE CHARGES. - - * * * * * - - RAILWAY TICKETS, SLEEPING CAR AND DRAWING-ROOM CAR - ACCOMMODATIONS CAN BE SECURED IN THE HOTEL; CABLE - AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, RUSSIAN AND TURKISH - BATHS, AND EVERY COMFORT AND - CONVENIENCE FOR TRAVELERS. - - * * * * * - - WELL-LIGHTED AND VENTILATED SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS, CORRIDORS, - DRAWING-ROOMS AND PARLOR SUITES, SINGLE - OR DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHS. - - * * * * * - - ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. - - * * * * * - - YOUR ADVERTISING - - IS SOLICITED. - - [Illustration: - - HICKS’ NEWSPAPER - ADVERTISING AGENCY. - - ESTABLISHED - 1869 - WILLIAM HICKS. - --150 NASSAU ST., N.Y.-- - - PROMPT CAREFUL & EFFICIENT - SERVICE.] - - -Estimates, containing Selected Lists of Suitable Publications with Rates -for Advertising, furnished free on application. - - * * * * * - -AUDITORIUM HOTEL, - -[Illustration] - -Michigan Ave., Congress St., and Wabash Ave., - -_CHICAGO._ - -The most massive hotel structure in the world, built entirely of stone -and iron, ten stones high, absolutely fire-proof. Overlooking Lake -Michigan, situated within four blocks of the business centre of the -city. American and European plans. - - BRESLIN & SOUTHGATE. - - - GILSEY HOUSE, - - Corner Broadway and Twenty-Ninth Street, - - _NEW YORK_. - - European Plan. - - J. H. BRESLIN & CO., PROPRIETORS. - - * * * * * - - VISITORS TO EUROPE! - - CIRCULAR CREDITS. FOREIGN EXCHANGE. - - - _Cheque Bank Cheques are the most convenient of Exchange to carry._ - - _They are issued in books from £10 up to any amount._ - - _They can be cashed at 3,000 Banks and 1,000 Hotels._ - - _They are cashed in the currency of the country visited, free of - commission._ - - _They are no good until signed._ - - _Special letters of identification are issued._ - - _Travellers’ mail matter promptly attended to without charge._ - - * * * * * - -Send for circulars and testimonials, list of Banks and Hotels, etc., or -apply to - - E. J. MATHEWS & CO., - Bankers’ Agents, - 2 WALL ST., NEW YORK. - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -laden four-house truck=> laden four-horse truck {pg 22} - -previous arragements=> previous arrangements {pg 48} - -but it it worth half=> but it is worth half {pg 55} - -where they had aparments=> where they had apartments {pg 57} - -in their minuest detail=> in their minutest detail {pg 63} - -but a concensus=> but a consensus {pg 89} - -an Amerian host=> an American host {pg 96} - -not actuatly fond=> not actually fond {pg 104} - -describing the _modus operandi_=> decribing the _modus operandi_ {pg -110} - -Nelson moument, the city prison=> Nelson monument, the city prison {pg -112} - -more commandiug site=> more commanding site {pg 112} - -his later opportunies=> his later opportunities {pg 121} - -thoroughly agreeably place=> thoroughly agreeable place {pg 126} - -that you most come a little later=> that you must come a little later -{pg 158} - -the new Oglethrope at Brunswick;=> the new Oglethorpe at Brunswick; {pg -156} - -the Oglethrope=> the Oglethorpe {pg 168} - -its cleanly and aristocratic air=> its clean and aristocratic air {pg -180} - -Landed and Offical Classes=> Landed and Official Classes {pg 183} - -skilled landscape gardner=> skilled landscape gardener {pg 194} - -owners in Pasedena by the hundred=> owners in Pasadena by the hundred -{pg 229} - -there is a grand cafe=> there is a grand café {pg 244} - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints -for Tourists, by Phillips Morris - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABROAD AND AT HOME *** - -***** This file should be named 53924-0.txt or 53924-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/9/2/53924/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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-text-align:center;text-indent:0%;font-weight:bold;} -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints for -Tourists, by Phillips Morris - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints for Tourists - -Author: Phillips Morris - -Release Date: January 8, 2017 [EBook #53924] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABROAD AND AT HOME *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="327" height="500" alt="cover" /></a> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p> -<p class="c">Some typographical errors have been corrected; -<a href="#transcrib">a list follows the text</a>.</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image, -will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> -<p class="c">ESTABLISHED 1850.</p> - -<p class="big3"><span class="smcap">Inman Line.</span></p> - -<p class="csans">UNITED STATES AND ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">CITY OF PARIS,</td><td align="left">10,500</td><td class="c">Tons.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">CITY OF NEW YORK,</td><td align="left">10,500</td><td class="c">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">CITY OF BERLIN,</td><td align="left">5,491</td><td class="c">Tons.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">CITY OF CHICAGO,</td><td align="left">6,000</td><td class="c">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">CITY OF CHESTER,</td><td align="left">4,770</td><td class="c">Tons.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_001.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_001_sml.jpg" width="218" height="131" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="big2"><span class="sans">New York, Queenstown <span class="smcap">AND</span> Liverpool.</span></p> - -<p class="cb">FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $60 to $650,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap"><span class="sans">According to Steamer and Location of Accommodations</span></span>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—Round Trip Tickets issued at reduced rates, and the return -portion can, if desired, be used by <b>RED STAR LINE</b> from Antwerp to -New York or Philadelphia.</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">International Navigation Co.</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">General Agents,</p> - -<p class="r"><span class="sans">6 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.</span> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="big2">SIMPSON’S</p> - -<p class="c">(LIMITED)</p> - -<p class="big3"><span class="smcap">Divan Tavern</span>,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="sans">103 STRAND,</span></p> - -<p class="c">Opposite Exeter Hall,—LONDON.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_002.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_002_sml.jpg" width="292" height="229" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>The premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of fifty -years, which still retains its supremacy for being the house to get the -best English Dinner in London at a moderate price. There is also a -magnificent Ladies’ Dining Room where ladies can dine in the same style -and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs. Private rooms for -large or small parties.</p> - -<p>Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton specially -cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of professed -Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables. Matured wines and -spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom.</p> - -<p class="r"><span class="sans"> -E. W. CATHIE, <span class="smcap">Managing Director</span>.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> - -<hr /> -<p class="csans"> -LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY<br /> -<br /></p> -<p class="cb"> -<span class="sans">THE OLD ROUTE IN THE OLD COUNTRY. - -THE TOURISTS’ FAVORITE.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<p class="csans">IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.</p> - -<p class="csans">SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM</p> - -<div class="blockquott"><p><b>LIVERPOOL</b> (Lime Street Station) to <b>LONDON</b> (Euston Station). under -FOUR AND A-HALF HOURS <b>to GLASGOW</b> (Central Station), in FIVE AND -THREE-QUARTER HOURS.</p> - -<p><b>QUEENSTOWN to LONDON via Dublin and Holyhead</b>, in SIXTEEN HOURS AND -TEN MINUTES.</p></div> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<p class="cb"><b>Baggage Checked Through from New York to London.</b></p> - -<p><b>At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses</b> from Landing Stage, and <b>Special Trains</b> -from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station and Hotel.</p> - -<p><b>NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, Liverpool</b>, the best and -largest—the hotel for Americans.</p> - -<p><b>SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London</b> when requisite to make close -connection with steamers arriving from America.</p> - -<p><b>Elegant Vestibule Drawing-Room Cars without extra charge.</b> Compartments -with lavatories, and private saloon and family carriages for parties -without extra charge.</p> - -<p><b>Sleeping Cars</b> with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth in -addition to first-class fares.</p> - -<p><b>DINING CARS</b> on principal trains and “American Specials.”</p> - -<p><b>Luncheon Baskets</b> at the principal Stations.</p> - -<p><b>In LONDON, Family Omnibuses</b> can be obtained, at the <b>Euston Hotel</b> (at the -Station), noted for its <b>Cellar</b> and its French <b>Cuisine</b>, will be found -most comfortable.</p> - -<p><b>THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY</b> has <b>NOT</b> abolished Second Class -Carriages; passengers to whom economy is an object, but who do not wish -to travel Third Class, can combine comfort with economy by traveling -Second Class by this line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third -Class Carriages on all trains except the <b>Irish Mails</b> to and from Dublin.</p> - -<p>The Company’s Agents, <b>Mr. W. STIRLING, at Queenstown</b>, and <b>Mr. FRED. W. -THOMPSON, at Liverpool</b>, meet the American Steamers on arrival, and -secure omnibuses, seats, saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give -general information.</p> - -<p><b>THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris</b>, and principal stations in -<b>England</b>, <b>Scotland</b>, <b>Ireland</b>, <b>Wales</b>, and Continent of Europe.</p> - -<p><b>TICKETS</b>, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels can be -obtained from the Company’s Agent, <b>Mr. D. BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., -Montreal</b>, and</p> - -<p><b>Mr. C. A. BARATTONI</b>, Gen’l Agent for the U. S. and Canada, <b>852 Broadway</b>, -near Union Square, <b>New York</b>.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr class="c" valign="top"> -<td><b>G. P. NEELE</b>,<br /> -Superintendent of the Line.<br /> -<b>London</b>, Euston Station.</td> -<td> </td> -<td><b>E. MICHEL</b>,<br /> -Foreign Traffic Superintendent.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="sans">G. FINDLAY, Gen’l Manager.</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="big3">HOTEL WINDSOR,</p> - -<p class="cb"><span class="sans">VICTORIA STREET,</span></p> - -<p class="c"> -Westminster, LONDON, S.W.<br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_003.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_003_sml.jpg" width="233" height="287" alt="Hotel -Windsor - -VICTORIA STREET, -WESTMINSTER, S.W. - -J. R. Cleave & C^o. -Proprietors." /></a> -</div> - -<p>Convenient and central location; European or American system; the only -hotel in London with Turkish and other baths; elevators; electrically -lighted throughout, day and night.</p> - -<p class="r"> -J. R. CLEAVE & CO., <span class="smcap">Proprietors</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_004a.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_004a_sml.jpg" alt="Morris Phillips" /></a><br /> -<a href="images/ill_004b.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_004b_sml.jpg" alt="Morris Phillips" /></a> - -</div> - -<h1> -ABROAD AND AT HOME<br /> -<br /> -PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS</h1> - -<p class="c">BY<br /> - -MORRIS PHILLIPS<br /> - -<small>EDITOR OF</small><br /> - -THE HOME JOURNAL<br /> - -<small>NEW YORK</small><br /><br /> -<img src="images/hr.png" -width="105" -alt="————" /><br /><br /> -NEW YORK<br /> -BRENTANO’S<br /> -<span class="smcap">Paris</span> -<span class="smcap">Washington</span> -<span class="smcap">Chicago</span> -<span class="smcap">London</span><br /> -<br /><small> -<span class="smcap">Copyright</span> 1891,<br /> -BY<br /> -MORRIS PHILLIPS<br /> -<br /> -THE ART PRESS,<br /> -DEMPSEY & CARROLL,<br /> -36 EAST <span class="smcap">14TH</span> STREET,<br /> -NEW YORK.</small><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> -<p class="c"> -TO THE MEMORY OF<br /> -<br /> -GEORGE W. HOWS,<br /> -<br /> -MY FAITHFUL FELLOW-WORKER AND DEAR FRIEND OF<br /> -MANY YEARS, THIS VOLUME OF SKETCHES IS<br /> -AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“<i>Travel is the great</i><br /></span> -<span class="i4"><i>source of true wisdom.</i>”<br /></span> -<span class="i12">—<span class="smcap"><span class="sans">Beaconsfield.</span></span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td class="indd">Preface, by the Hon. <span class="smcap">A. Oakey Hall</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_005">5</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c">GREAT BRITAIN.</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">London on Wheels,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_009">9</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">London Hotels,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_024">24</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">A Few Boarding Houses,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_047">47</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_049">49</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Railway Travelling in England,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_059">59</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">An Hour with Spurgeon,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_067">67</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Crypt of St. Paul’s,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Queen’s Mews,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_074">74</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">A Question of Hats,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_077">77</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">London Oddities,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_079">79</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Poverty and Charity in England,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_085">85</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Where is Charing Cross?</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Margate,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Two Brighton Hotels,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_097">97</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">A Visit to Bleak House,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Takin’ Notes in Edinboro’ Town,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Burns Monument,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Rt. Rev. the Moderator, James MacGregor, D.D.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Crossing the Channel,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_123">123</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c">PARIS.</th></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Paris Hotels,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_124">124</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Pensions of the First Class,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Restaurants of Paris,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_137">137</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Anglo-American Banking Co.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Au Bon Marché,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c">THE UNITED STATES.</th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Georgia</span>—</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The De Soto, Savannah,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Thomasville,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_155">155</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">A New Southern Resort,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_165">165</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Florida</span>—</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">A Cuban City (Key West),</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_171">171</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">St. Augustine,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_180">180</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">About Tampa,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">California</span>—</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Monterey,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">San Diego and Coronado,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Santa Cruz,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_213">213</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Redondo Beach,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_221">221</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Pasadena,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_225">225</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Los Angeles,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_231">231</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The California Hotel, San Francisco,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Salt Lake City,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_239">239</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">The Auditorium Hotel, Chicago,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_243">243</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="indd">Max O’Rell on American Hotels,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_249">249</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>A continuous residence in London of eight years has satisfied me that -precisely such a book, so far as it relates to that city, which my -friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed.</p> - -<p>That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even to readers who -have never been tourists thither, “goes without saying.” Moreover, there -are in these pages views, comments and sights of the “abroad” and “at -home” additionally valuable; therefore I gladly accept his invitation to -prepare a short preface to this volume of an American M. P. in the -Parliament of Letters.</p> - -<p>He first broached his idea of papers about London at a capital luncheon, -when meeting together there we discussed with palates, forks and wine -glasses a tempting <i>menu</i> during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host -Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the top of the -historic St. James’s street.</p> - -<p>We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, and I doubt not, that -every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that -toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal.</p> - -<p>When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the inviting shadow of -the Northwestern Railway station hotel, that is flanked by two smaller -inns and its centre pierced by several taverns, or direct from -Southampton<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a score -of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, that tourist’s -earliest question will be, which hospitable <i>caravanserai</i> shall I -patronize?</p> - -<p>His second question will concern his vehicular desires for -transportation by cab, ’bus or railway. Other queries will suggest -themselves regarding the “How,” the “Where,” the “Which” and the “Why” -of his new London surroundings.</p> - -<p>With this volume on shipboard <i>en route</i>: or in railway carriage <i>in -transitu</i>, the tourist will already possess answers in his mind to those -queries or similar ones respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow; and will not be -at the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of contestant -“cabbies,” or of the shady sharpers who throng railway platforms.</p> - -<p>Once well housed in any of the places herein mentioned, and once -understanding, by the aid of the ensuing pages, how to get about in the -vast metropolis—wherein one may ride sixteen miles from extreme north -to a suburban south, and fourteen miles from west to east without -quitting paved and lighted streets, or the continuity of habitations—a -traveler’s eyes and ears will be all the Mentors he will require.</p> - -<p>Of so-called guide books (of which class this is not), there are in -London and elsewhere abroad confusing scores, but the average tourist -ought to shun guide-books as he would a Bradshaw, unless he loves -charades, puzzles and conundrums.</p> - -<p>Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his footing, the child -will walk confidently. This volume<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> serves to give the person who -arrives in London or Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In -the parlance of the race course, it is the “starter.”</p> - -<p>On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and learn the points of -compass; because all enquiries about the “Where” in London hinge on -those.</p> - -<p>The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will be found as valuable -as they are piquant. He tells of certain trips (and tips) on top of a -’bus; he vividly describes how the best way for exploring London is to -ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses—devoting days to -the task, or rather pleasure—and when, as street after street is -passed, reading their names, which are always sign-affixed to the -turn—a convenience even for residents which, in late years, is -strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality and prominent -buildings and often-referred-to neighborhoods become fixed in an -observer’s mind for future uses of memory.</p> - -<p>I learned to know London “like a book”—as common phrase goes: and, I -therefore fully appreciate how much this book will serve to teach new -tourists how to begin to learn London; how much it will revive pleasant -memories in former tourists; how greatly it will instruct intending -tourists; how pleasantly it will amuse those who may not expect to -practically patronize the hotels; how well it will instruct as to -London’s vehicles and the wonders of the English city, which is -practically seventeen centuries older than New York.</p> - -<p>But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic volume. Not only is -it inviting to Americans who wish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> to know about the -“across-the-ocean-ferry,” but it will be attractive to the countrymen of -the M. P. who may travel or who would like to travel Westward, “where -the star of Empire takes its way.” And also to the foreign tourist who -may for only one week reside, <i>in transitu</i> to the States, upon the -floating greyhoundish hotels which we call steamships.</p> - -<p>Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the wonders, the hotels, -the coasts, and the traveling—especially toward the Pacific ocean—are -equally marvelous to English M. P.’s and foreign ladies and gentlemen of -fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes and comforts.</p> - -<p>Merely “turning the leaves,” a phrase happily used as a heading for book -notices by the author of “Kissing the Rod” in his <i>World</i> newspaper of -London, will at once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied.</p> - -<p class="r"> -A. OAKEY HALL.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Lotos Club</span>, January 21, 1892.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LONDON_ON_WHEELS" id="LONDON_ON_WHEELS"></a>LONDON ON WHEELS.<br /><br /> -<small>ABOVE GROUND, ON THE GROUND, AND UNDER GROUND.</small></h2> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE UNDER-GROUND LINES.</h3> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<p>How the five millions of people in London “get about” to their daily -avocations and homes is a mystery to those who have not made the subject -a study. So I have gathered some information which will throw a little -light on it.</p> - -<p>Let me start out with the statement that besides the ten large terminal -stations, like the Euston Square and the Midland, both in Euston Road, -there are four hundred and thirty railway stations within the -metropolis, and the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred -and twenty-five millions of passengers. The underground roads have been -in existence for more than a quarter of a century, and are found to -answer the purpose admirably of relieving the over-ground traffic. They -are convenient, cheap and comparatively quick; but decidedly unpleasant, -if not positively unhealthy.</p> - -<p>They now form a network of rails under the surface, and they have been a -success from the first. They are a great engineering triumph, and may be -said to have marked a new epoch in the history of London. The act -permitting the tunneling was passed in 1853. Mr. John Fowler conducted -the herculean labor, and underneath the streets of the busiest of -cities, down where the soil was honeycombed with other works—gas pipes, -water mains, drains and sewers—a railway line, costing upwards<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> of one -hundred and fifty thousand pounds per mile, was constructed almost -without the knowledge of those above. For three years—from the spring -of 1860 to the beginning of 1863—two thousand men, two hundred horses -and fifty-eight engines were employed. When completed another difficulty -presented itself, but was overcome by Mr. Fowler, who invented a -locomotive which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary -engine, but which, while in the tunnel, emits neither steam nor smoke, -being so constructed as to be able to condense the one and consume the -other.</p> - -<p>And yet, after a long ride in the under-ground, you always emerge with a -headache.</p> - -<p>Of course the cars have to be lighted artificially, and they had not -learned to use the electric light in them when I last was in London in -October, 1891. Gas is a poor substitute in such a place. You are forced -to read your newspaper in a dim light, and the gas consumes much of the -oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the stations, and from openings -en route, which are made for the purpose.</p> - -<p>Yet you do not get about as quickly in the underground as you would -imagine. To avoid obstructions, and for mechanical reasons, the road -takes a circuitous route and you frequently must ride a long way around -to go a comparatively short distance.</p> - -<p>Millions of Londoners, who go direct from home to business, seldom get -into an under-ground train. There are many over-ground lines built on -brick arches which go to the suburbs, where rents are low; for every -Englishman must have his own house, no matter how small, which he -regards as his “castle.” These trains are quick and cheap, and you are -blessed with ample light and good air—at least as good as you can get -in foggy, smoky London.</p> - -<p>On all roads, whether on trunk lines, on local, overground or -underground lines, there are first, second and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> third-class cars, or -“carriages,” as they call them. Even some omnibuses that ply from the -trunk line stations also have compartments for different classes; your -Englishman is very particular with whom he rides.</p> - -<p>Occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in third-class -carriages of local or suburban lines, but on through trains, say between -Liverpool and London, the third-class carriages are comfortable, and the -travelers of a respectable class.</p> - -<p>There is a great difference in the rates, and on a long journey it is -worth consideration. First-class fare is almost double that of -third-class. Second-class is neither one thing nor the other, and on -some lines it has been abolished.</p> - -<p>It is an old saying that only princes, Americans and fools travel -first-class. I don’t care under which head they place me, so long as -they place me in a first-class “carriage.” That it is more comfortable -is incontrovertible, if you’ll pardon such a big word. I say this in the -face of what John Stuart Mill said, that the only reason he rode -third-class was because there was no fourth.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>ELECTRIC LINES UNDER GROUND.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The <i>Forum</i> last summer printed a very good description from the pen of -Simon Sterne, of the new electric under-ground railway in London, and -the Sunday <i>Sun</i> last autumn had an elaborate article on the subject, -which, with illustrations, occupied nearly a whole page.</p> - -<p>It is a quick and convenient means of locomotion, and to accomplish it -was a work of wonderful engineering skill for which the inventor, Mr. -Peter Greathead, cannot be praised too highly; but the riding is by no -means pleasant.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span></p> - -<p>In a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passengers, you descend a -distance of eighty feet below the surface—part of the road running -beneath the bed of the river Thames. The cars are small and fairly well -lighted, but they have an unpleasant vibration, and although the air is -not noticeably impure, there is an uncanny feeling with the knowledge -that you are burrowing, as it were, in the bowels of the earth.</p> - -<p>The road, probably an experimental one, is only three miles long, -extending south from “the monument” in the city. It has not, thus far, -proved a success pecuniarily, the cost of construction being so great, -although no land was purchased except for the stations.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HANSOMS AND FOUR-WHEELERS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Street cars are not needed in the city. Nearly all London streets are in -as good condition for driving as our Central Park roads. There are eight -thousand hansoms, four thousand four-wheelers, and two thousand -omnibuses, so that you are not obliged to walk on account of the absence -of cars. The four-wheeled cabs, or “growlers,” as they term them, are -dilapidated, uncomfortable vehicles, which lack new springs, and are -dirty both inside and out. The horses and the drivers are old and -superannuated; they have all seen better days in private carriages or -hansom cabs. You never take a four-wheeler if you are alone, or if the -party consists of only two persons. You must engage one if you have a -trunk, but if you are going to catch a train or boat you had better -allow a half hour’s margin.</p> - -<p>The London cab service is the best and cheapest in the world. I say -this, notwithstanding that I remember hiring a cab in Key West, in the -Gulf of Mexico, for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span> dime. But such cabs and such horses! The rate in -a hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons, no fare less than -one shilling (twenty-five cents); by the hour, two-and-six (sixty-two -cents).</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOW THEY DRIVE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>England is the only place I know of where they drive to the left. -English drivers say that by sitting on the right and driving to the -left, they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels, and thus -prevent collisions. A cabbie’s attention is given entirely to the -roadway; pedestrians must look out for themselves or be run over. That -is why so many of the London police are engaged solely in attending to -street traffic. Yet with all their vigilance, more accidents occur in -London, proportionately, than elsewhere. London drivers are polite and -very civil to each other. If an obstruction appears in front of a horse, -or if for any reason he is obliged suddenly to slow up, the driver will -immediately notify the driver in the rear by holding out horizontally -his left arm; and this sign is passed down from one driver to another, -until the very end of the line of blocked vehicles is reached.</p> - -<p>People who have not visited London for several years, will find cabs -greatly improved. There is a new, patent hansom. In these you are saved -the trouble of opening and closing the doors; this is done by the driver -by touching a lever on the top of the vehicle. The new style of cab has -thick rubber tires, which add considerably to ease and comfort in -riding. So little noise does the vehicle make in going over London’s -smooth-paved streets, that these cabs are provided with bells to warn -pedestrians of their approach. The interior fittings include a holder -for lighted cigars, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> box of matches, a small, bevelled mirror on -either side of the cab, and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a rubber -tube with a whistle at the end. You lightly press the bulb, and in this -way whistle to Cabbie on top, who hears the summons above the roar of -the streets, and responds by opening his trap door in the roof to -receive instructions.</p> - -<p>The law does not permit the drivers of these well-appointed and rather -luxurious vehicles to charge more than do the drivers of the ordinary -cabs; but as the new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire, and as they -are so much superior to the old style, you do not begrudge paying a -trifle extra. The drivers pay for these improved hansoms sixteen -shillings (four dollars) per day, except during “the season,” when the -owners exact a guinea per day, about five dollars.</p> - -<p>The speed with which the London cabs are driven is something -alarming—alarming to a stranger. In New York a cab driver has some -little regard for the lives and limbs of pedestrians; in Paris the -horses are so poor and skeleton-like, and go so slow, that pedestrians -have no fear whatever; but in London you must look out wholly for -yourself; Cabbie will certainly not look out for you. If he is engaged -by the course, he only has his destination in mind. London cab horses -are the best horses in the world used for such a purpose. With rubber -tires to the wheels, and the wheels going over clean and perfectly -smooth roadways, there is nothing to obstruct their speed, and the -animals go like the wind. They and their drivers seem to stand in fear -of nothing but a policeman, and as London has good laws for regulating -vehicles, and as these laws are strictly obeyed, the mere warning look -of a policeman is respected and obeyed.</p> - -<p>London drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered as New York -drivers. They do not, as a rule, curse or swear at each other as ours -do, who are always ready<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> with a foul oath. If a “block” occurs they -take it good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the police as -quickly as possible. Our drivers are only satisfied when they can take a -mean advantage of their fellows, get in their way and put them to -inconvenience. It may be Yankee “goaheadativeness,” or the spirit of -freedom and independence which prompts this show of ill-temper, but for -my part I prefer the laughing, jocular, good-tempered London driver.</p> - -<p>On my last visit to London, where I stayed one month, I saw a great many -“blocks,” but heard only one quarrel between drivers, and that was not -at all serious. They will, however, chaff each other, saying something -like this:—“Oh, come, pull yourself together there;” or “I say, -country, why don’t you learn to drive before you come up to London?” The -term “up to London,” by the way, is put to singular use there. Although -London is in the south of England, you always go “up to London,” if you -even go from Carlisle, which is in the extreme north, on the Scotch -border.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>STREET CARS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>There are no street cars run by the trolley, storage or any other -electric system; no cable cars, no horse cars; not a track is laid for a -surface road in “the city” proper. Many Americans leave London without -ever seeing a street car of any kind, and yet in the metropolis one -thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and twenty miles of -track, but they are not permitted in crowded thoroughfares; they are -confined to the outlying districts. I have only seen them in the east -end, in the district known as “The Boro’<span class="lftspc">”</span> and near the Victoria Station. -The street cars are “double deckers,” and, like the ’buses, they carry -more outside than inside<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> passengers, but the number of passengers is -limited. When the car has reached its limit it will take up no more -passengers. Every passenger has the right to a seat, and, to use a -paradoxical phrase, every Englishman stands up for his right to a seat.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>OMNIBUSES.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or nine thousand horses. -The number of miles run annually by the omnibuses is five and a half -millions, and the number of passengers carried not less than forty-eight -millions.</p> - -<p>Such a heavy, slow-going, cumbersome vehicle as the London omnibus could -not be used on our rough-and-tumble roads. It is poorly ventilated, if -you can call it ventilated, for the windows are closed and are -immovable. The only means of ventilation is by the door, in the rear, -near which everybody tries to get. As fast as the choice seats near the -door are vacated, they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers, -and the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place, which is -nearest the front. But in fine weather a man never gets inside while -there is a vacant seat on top, and it is no strange sight to see women -occupying outside seats to escape the stifling air inside.</p> - -<p>Nor does wet weather deter an Englishman from taking an open air seat. -Most Englishmen wear a “mackintosh” in threatening weather and there’s a -great deal of such weather in London. To every seat on the top of a ’bus -there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron to protect the knees, and -with an umbrella, which is always part of an Englishman’s costume, they -manage to keep perfectly dry.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span></p> - -<p>The omnibuses are so freely used for advertising purposes, the outside -is so nearly covered with attractive and gaudy signs of business houses -that it is exceedingly difficult to read or discover the route or -destination of the vehicle. You may be looking for Blackwall or Putney, -but you will read “Hyams’ thirteen-shilling trousers “or “Day & Martin’s -blacking is the best.”</p> - -<p>The ’buses do not confine themselves to the middle of the roadway and -allow passengers to pick and fight their way through a crowd of -vehicles, New York-like; they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to -enter or leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble. -Conductors will also leave their perch, approach the sidewalk (Anglice, -pavement) to consult or advise with a prospective passenger who is in -doubt as to which ’bus he should take. Time seems of no importance: they -are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we are. Whether from -the excessive competition or from some other cause I know not: I do know -that public servants in England are much more civil and polite than they -are in this “free” country.</p> - -<p>There are rules which control London omnibuses, and these it is the duty -of the police to strictly enforce. A ’bus is licensed and allowed to -carry only so many passengers, and this license or limit must be posted -on a conspicuous part of the vehicle. The majority are “licensed to -carry twenty-six passengers; twelve inside and fourteen outside.”</p> - -<p>In 1890 the London police force numbered thirteen thousand eight hundred -and fifty-five men, not counting the nine hundred and two officers who -form a special organization in what is termed “the city.” A considerable -part of the time and attention of the police is devoted to governing -street traffic. Policemen will watch and follow a ’bus for several -blocks if they think it contains more passengers than the law allows. -When they are assured that this is the case they go to a magistrate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> and -lay a complaint, and then woe betide the poor driver or conductor who -disregarded the law.</p> - -<p>The ’buses make special stops at certain points of their route and these -seem very long and prove tedious to one who is in a hurry; but if your -time is valuable you would never take a ’bus. They are not allowed to -stop when near or nearing these special stopping-places, not even if a -passenger expresses a desire to alight. I remember once, simply for -information, asking the driver to stop in the middle of Trafalgar -square, just as we were passing Nelson’s monument, on the way to the -Strand, cityward. “Well,” said the polite but uneducated Jehu, “you -carn’t expect me to get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare, can -you?” meaning that if he pulled up where I indicated he would be -summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigilant “bobby” and be -obliged to pay four shillings for accommodating me.</p> - -<p>In American street cars or omnibuses—excepting, as I remember in San -José, California, a passenger who rides only a few blocks helps to pay -the fare of the man who rides the full length of the road, for the -charge to both is the same. It is not so (mis) managed in England. The -charge there is by distance, about one penny (two cents) a mile and you -pay according to the distance you ride. There are two or three lines of -omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny (one cent). One line runs -between Westminster bridge and Trafalgar square. They pick up no -passengers between the two points. They each carry only twelve -passengers; there are no outside seats.</p> - -<p>There is a great deal of pilfering going on among omnibus conductors, -and drivers also, for they divide the spoils; and the company winks at -it, knowing that the pay of these men is too small. The company is -satisfied if it receives a fair average return, but in this way it puts -a premium on dishonesty. There is no check<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> against the conductors—no -mechanical contrivance to record fares. They are supposed to enter every -fare and the exact amount they receive from each passenger on a paper -slip placed in a frame, the frame being fastened to the inside of the -omnibus door, but it is only a supposition. Passengers are requested to -see that the amount paid is properly entered, but the request is wholly -unheeded. It is, to say the least, a very careless way of keeping -accounts, and invites dishonesty. On some lines they use tickets showing -the amount each passenger pays, but a conductor sometimes <i>forgets</i> to -hand you a ticket. An Inspector will occasionally mount a ’bus to see -that all the passengers are supplied with tickets, and then the -conductor with a treacherous memory has reason to be sorry. Keep out of -a “pirate ’bus.” The rate in these ’buses is not uniform, and -overcharges are not uncommon.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>ON THE TOP OF A ’BUS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The driver is generally a jolly, red-faced fellow and very smartly -dressed, especially on Sunday. He then always wears a “top hat:” in -winter it is of black silk, in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide -mourning band to set it off. His coat is often a double-breasted drab -cassimere, and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a large and -loud nose-gay. A showy scarf and a pair of heavy, tan-colored driving -gloves complete his costume. He makes quite a picture as he sits on the -box, with a leather strap across his waist which holds him securely in -his seat, and a black leather apron to protect the lower part of his -body from wind and rain. He carries a showy whip with a very long and -loose thong, with the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of -his leader.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span></p> - -<p>The ’bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty. He comforts himself -with a briarwood pipe unless a generous passenger treats him to a cigar, -for he is not above accepting a small present.</p> - -<p>Leopold Rothschild, who lives on a street through which omnibuses pass, -has taken a great fancy to these men and in the autumn he presents a -pair of pheasants to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his -door.</p> - -<p>Everybody who has visited London knows that the best way of seeing the -city is from the top of a ’bus. Get a front seat, next to the driver, -hand him a tip in the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions. -You will find that he is intelligent, well-informed on every-day -subjects, quick-witted and a judge of human nature.</p> - -<p>I had a very interesting ride last summer on the top of a “Kilburn” -’bus. These ’buses start from Victoria station, and run northwest to -Kilburn, through some very beautiful thoroughfares, in which reside many -titled people and some prominent members of London society.</p> - -<p>In Grosvenor place, soon after starting from the station, the driver -will point out, for instance, the residences of the Dukes of -Northumberland, Grafton and Portland; that of the Earl of Scarborough, -at No. 1 Grosvenor place; the Dowager Lady de Rothschild; Sir Edward -Cecil Guinness; that of the late Right Hon. William H. Smith; also the -homes of a number of members of parliament, more or less well-known.</p> - -<p>The ’bus goes a short distance through Piccadilly and passes the -residences of Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, Lord Rothschild, the Duke of -Wellington and the Duke of Hamilton, in Hamilton place.</p> - -<p>Then it turns into one of London’s most aristocratic streets, Park Lane -(alongside Hyde Park), where reside the Duchess of Somerset, the Marquis -of Londonderry,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span> Lord Brassey, Alfred Rothschild, Lord Dudley, the -Countess of Dudley, Lord Grosvenor, cousin to the Duke of Westminster, -and the Duke of Westminster himself. The Duke’s wealth is untold, and he -owns miles of valuable land in this and the adjacent districts.</p> - -<p>A ’bus marked “Hammersmith” will take you westward, through Piccadilly, -past the clubs, the parks, some stylish shops, and fashionable -residences. You will see St. James’s Palace and historic Addison Road, -<i>en route</i>, and you can ride across Hammersmith Bridge. You can also go -to Kew Gardens and to the famous “Star and Garter,” at Richmond, by -’bus.</p> - -<p>Here’s another very interesting ride. If you are at Oxford Circus you -will see omnibuses with the horses’ heads turned eastward, and you will -hear the Cockney conductor calling out “Benk, benk, Charing Cross, -benk.” Take a ride with him. The vehicle goes through Regent street, -Trafalgar Square, the Strand, Fleet street, then down Cheapside (which -is anything but cheap), and Cornhill, where there is neither corn nor -hill. At the end of Cornhill you see the most crowded and bustling crush -of vehicles you ever saw in your life. To the right is the Mansion House -(corresponding with our City Hall); a little further on “The Monument,” -with its gold torch at top, looms up; immediately in front is The Royal -Exchange, with its Peabody statue, while to the left stands the demure -Bank of England, as solid from a financial point of view as it is -architecturally. On this route you pass and have in view The National -Gallery, Landseer’s lions, several famous hotels and theatres, the Law -Courts, Temple Bar, the principal newspaper establishments, and St. -Paul’s Church. The same ’bus, if you wish to pursue your journey -eastward, will take you through Leadenhall street and into the very -heart of Whitechapel—even to Blackwall and the docks, if your taste -lies in that direction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span></p> - -<p>There is no better way of seeing London than from the top of a ’bus if -you get a seat next to an old and wide-awake driver, and the cost is but -a few pennies. There are one hundred and forty different routes in the -whole city to choose from.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE CITY TRAFFIC.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>One of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street called “the -Strand,” where it is crossed by Wellington street. You drive north, -through Wellington street, past the Lyceum Theatre to get to Holborn, -Covent Garden Market and elsewhere; southward there is great traffic -over Waterloo Bridge, leading to the Surrey side of London, while from -the east and west come continuous streams of omnibuses, cabs, carriages -and heavy wagons and freight trucks. Policemen stand in the middle of -the roadway and regulate this enormous traffic by merely raising a -white-cotton-gloved hand. They are calm and immovable, and seem to pay -not the slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded crush of -vehicles about them. All come to a standstill before the stiff and -fearless “bobby.” When by waving his hand he directs that a certain -stream of vehicles may proceed this way or that, it proceeds, but not -until he gives permission.</p> - -<p>London Bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare in the world. More -vehicles and foot passengers cross it than pass through any other -street, and special provision is made for vehicular traffic. In New -York, for instance, a heavily laden four-horse truck or wagon may block -Broadway for a great distance. If you are behind it in a phaeton or -light carriage, you must wait till the driver in front of you, who may -be sullen and obstinate, leisurely moves out of the way. No matter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> in -how much haste you are—you may be trying to catch a train or an ocean -steamer—you must wait. Not so in London’s most crowded streets. On -London Bridge, for instance, slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must -keep to the side near the curb and pavement, while carriages, cabs and -light vehicles are allowed the middle of the roadway for quick movement. -That part of the roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface, -and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for the outer wheel -of heavy wagons—this only on London Bridge and in a few other very busy -thoroughfares. It is a capital plan, and gives satisfaction to all -concerned.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>ADVICE FROM CHARLES DICKENS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>But in such a vast city, with such enormous traffic, nothing can prevent -great loss of life and accidents innumerable from crossing the streets. -The point mentioned above is only one of the busy parts of one -street—the Strand—from another point, down by the Law Courts and -Temple Bar, it is said that two hundred more or less mangled bodies are -sent to the Charing Cross Hospital every year.</p> - -<p>The present Charles Dickens, in his “Dictionary of London,” thinks it -worth while to suggest that the only way to go from curb to curb is to -make up your mind what course you will take, and then stick to it. -London cabbies will thus divine your intentions. To change your mind -while crossing is to confuse the cabmen, and cause you (so Dickens -suggests) to make your return journey to America in the form of freight.</p> - -<p>As all vehicles in London are driven to the left, keep to the left curb. -I found this suggestion of Oakey Hall’s valuable: “As you leave a curb, -look to the right; as you approach a curb, look to the left.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LONDON_HOTELS" id="LONDON_HOTELS"></a>LONDON HOTELS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Until the year 1880 there was only one hotel in London that came up to -the expectations of American travelers, which compared in size and -appointments with American hotels of the first-class. This was the -Langham Hotel in Portland place. When the Langham was built, nearly -thirty years ago, and for several subsequent years, as the writer can -attest, for he was a guest there in 1871, and has been a frequent -visitor there since, the Langham was large enough to accommodate all -American tourists in London.</p> - -<p>This, however, has been greatly changed. Americans at that time merely -passed through London; they took it as a sort of stepping-stone <i>en -route</i> for Paris. In the days of the Second Empire, when Louis Napoleon -wielded the sceptre, and Eugenie set the fashions for the civilized -world, Americans flocked to Paris like so many sheep. Then it was said: -“See Paris and die.” With the downfall of the empire and its -accompanying glories our compatriots found Paris less attractive, and -they discovered what everybody knows—that London is, in many respects, -the most interesting city in the world. A presentation to Her Majesty, -and hob-nobbing with the Prince of Wales, are the things now most -desired, and to be in the very height of fashion, one must hire a London -house for “the season,”—May, June and July.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE LANGHAM HOTEL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>But this is a digression. The ground, the structure and the furnishing -of the Langham Hotel, which was formally opened by the Prince of Wales -in June, 1865, cost a million and a half dollars, and it was a wonder -and a revelation to the English people. Its noble granite front of two -hundred and twelve feet, its dining hall, forty-seven by one hundred and -twenty feet; its music room, drawing-room, and its public rooms -generally, were on such a grand scale that Londoners opened wide their -eyes in astonishment and admiration. The Langham, by liberal outlay of -money and constant improvement, keeps up with the times, and -notwithstanding that many splendid establishments have been erected -within the last decade, it retains its place in the very front rank. -People who have not seen the interior of the Langham Hotel, London, -since 1890, will notice some changes and marked improvements. Heretofore -the dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark and roundabout -way, near the drawing-room; now it is approached from “the office” -direct, through a wide and handsome “vestibule,” which is flooded with -light and richly furnished, making an appropriate entrance to the -beautiful dining-room. The drawing-room, which, for its size, its -pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one of the most attractive -salons in England, has also been greatly improved.</p> - -<p>Colonel Sanderson, its first manager, an American, died many years ago. -He was brother to Harry Sanderson, famous in his day in New York as a -pianist. But English capitalists and business men are not given to -making changes, and so we find that Mr. Walter Gosden, who was in the -service of the Langham under Mr. Sanderson’s management, has been for -many years and is now the manager of the hotel. You can get a nice room -with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> beautiful outlook, and a very good breakfast here for less than -two dollars a day. This estimate includes the charge for attendance. -Address, Walter Gosden, Portland place, Regent street, W.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE GRAND.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>During the past twelve years, however, many superb buildings for hotel -purposes have been erected in the English metropolis. Among the largest -and most popular are the three grouped together, as it were, in one -short street, Northumberland avenue, which, only two blocks long, -extends in a southerly direction from Trafalgar square to the banks of -the Thames. These are the Grand, the Métropole and the Victoria, to name -them in the order they were erected. So popular has this cluster of -hotels become, and so many well-to-do Americans do they attract, that -property in the neighborhood has largely increased in value, and the -tradespeople blame the “Yankees” for the increased rents they have to -pay, never speaking of the increased patronage which they enjoy from -these same “Yankees.”</p> - -<p>The features of the Grand Hotel, the longest established of these three, -are well-known, but former patrons will scarcely recognize the -reception-room, which, with its new, solid-looking furniture and rich, -dark decorations, is now one of the most attractive apartments of its -kind to be seen, even in these days of the upholsterer and decorator. -While artistic and costly, it has an air of utility and comfort which -you will not find very often repeated. The drawing-room of the Grand was -to be “done up” during last winter, so the secretary informed me, and -“it will be just as handsome as the reception-room.” Cable, Granotel, -London.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HÔTEL MÉTROPOLE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>To American visitors in London the Métropole is one of the most -attractive of the more recently built hotels. Situated as it is, and -being replete with all the latest conveniences and features, no hotel in -the metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was first evolved in -the United States of the model modern caravansary. To dwell upon the -subject of the general characteristics of the Hôtel Métropole would be -superfluous; they and it are too well known to Americans who have -visited London, but a short description of the celebrated “grand salon” -of the Métropole, as it has lately been refitted and decorated (Sept. -1891), will be read with interest.</p> - -<p>The scheme of adornment is most tasteful, and perfectly and harmoniously -carried out in all details. Two shades of maroon in contrast with white -and gold are the leading features of the <i>ensemble</i>, and the general -effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and pleasing. The -wall space between the lofty windows and the immense mirrors is covered -with stamped Utrecht velvet of a soft, natural tint and richness of -design. The pillars are painted in maroon, with gilt capitals, an -arrangement of color which is at once novel and agreeable to the eye. -The patterns on the flutings of the beams which support the roof are -picked out in gold on a white ground.</p> - -<p>The roof panels are covered with dull gold of a peculiarly restful tint, -and the design introduced in various portions of the general decoration -have an unusually æsthetic character. The electric lights, of which -there are a considerable number, are surrounded by cut crystal pendants -and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the illumination. In the center of -the room is a palm, the leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in -circumference.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> It towers toward the ceiling, and for grace and beauty -is not easily equalled in Florida, nor greatly excelled even in -California. Tree palms are placed at intervals throughout the spacious -room, producing a pleasing effect of verdure, and each of the separate -tables is adorned with flowers; while the rich candelabra, with handsome -shades placed upon each table, afford the subdued light which is -preferable to the cruder glare of the former style of lighting. The -general <i>coup d’œil</i> in the grand salon is singularly graceful and -attractive.</p> - -<p>A large number of public and private banquets take place at the Hôtel -Métropole, this being one of the recognized resorts for ceremonies of -that description.</p> - -<p>At the Métropole the “show” apartments are known as the Eugenie and -Marie Antoinette suites, and they have afforded many a descriptive -writer material for an article. Probably no hotel sleeping chambers -equal these for rich and costly decoration—for the laces, the frescoes -and luxurious furniture. The reader will know that ample means were at -command when told that in the selection of site, in constructing and -furnishing the Métropole, half a million sterling (two and a half -million dollars) were expended. And such a success has the Métropole -proved that the company were encouraged to invest further in hotel -property with the result that they now own and control three hotels of -the first class in London, also five other hotels in different parts of -Europe. Among these are the Métropole at Monte Carlo, the Métropole at -Cannes, and the Métropole at Brighton, the last named being the latest -hotel erected by this company, and one which will compare in many -respects with the most renowned hotels of the world. Rooms at the London -Métropole from five shillings to one pound per day; breakfast from -two-and-six-pence to four shillings; table d’hôte dinner, six -shillings—one dollar and a half. Manager, Wm. T. Hollands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL VICTORIA.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The latest constructed of these three hotels is the Hotel Victoria. -Printed words cannot easily convey to the mind an adequate idea of the -magnificence of this structure. The public rooms of the Victoria are -palatial in their proportions and appointments, the grand staircase is a -marvel of beauty, and the sleeping rooms contain all the conveniences -and contrivances found in modern hotels of the highest class. Besides -the comforts characteristic of an English house, and the luxurious -cuisine of a continental hotel, the attention and the discipline which -rule at the Victoria remind one of an American hotel.</p> - -<p>You need have no fear at the Victoria that the cards of friends calling -will not be promptly sent to you: nor is there any delay or trouble at -this house, as there is at certain hotels in the Strand, about the -delivery of telegrams, letters and packages. Each guest is known to the -officials and servants, not by name, but by number—the number of the -room he occupies. Letters are placed in your box up to a certain hour of -the evening, after that hour they are sent to your room. There is a -package-room, also a “package clerk,” who receives all bundles, signs -therefor, and enters the same in a book, so that it may be known -immediately if a package has been received for a guest.</p> - -<p>If a telegram or a card from a caller is received and the key to your -room is not in its box, thus indicating that you are in your room, or at -least in the house, a servant is immediately dispatched to your room, -while a little page in livery is started off through all the halls and -public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room number in this -fashion, “Number 630, please.” If you are anywhere under the roof you -are sure to be found by this excellent method.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span></p> - -<p>A feature of the Hotel Victoria is a corps of valets. There are seven -floors in the building, each accommodating about sixty or seventy -guests, and to each floor a valet is assigned who performs all the -ordinary duties of such a servant. Shoes are not carried down below to -be mixed and confused with hundreds of others, but are polished by the -valet on your floor. The valet also enters your room during your -absence, removes all the clothes he finds hanging or lying about, -brushes and folds the same and puts them back neatly. It is a -convenience, returning to your hotel late in the evening and in haste to -dress for dinner or the theatre, to find your evening suit nicely folded -and brushed, ready to put on. These and other provisions for the comfort -of guests indicate the general care in management and the close -attention to detail which obtain at the Victoria, and which have given -it its wide reputation. The appointments include a billiard room with -five full-sized tables. Good rooms on fifth floor, a dollar and a half a -day. This includes attendance and lights. Breakfast from two shillings -to three-and-six; table d’hôte luncheon about the same; table d’hôte -dinner, one dollar and a quarter. Manager, Henry Logan.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>LONG’S HOTEL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>There is another trio of London hotels that may be grouped together, on -account of their proximity—the Hotel Albemarle (Albemarle street and -Piccadilly), Long’s hotel (Bond street), and the Hotel Bristol -(Burlington Gardens, between Bond and Regent streets). The last two are -but a few yards apart. They are all entirely new buildings, and new also -in name and history, except Long’s, which was erected on the ground -where<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> the first Long’s stood for <i>two hundred years</i>. Long’s, though -not of great capacity, has a larger number of richly furnished bedrooms -than the Ponce de Leon, in St. Augustine, Fla. For the beauty of the -exterior and the magnificent surroundings of the Ponce de Leon, as well -as for the Oriental splendor of its public rooms, no words of praise can -be too lavish. But the two hotels, “the Ponce” and Long’s, cannot be -compared; their characteristics are so different. One is like a royal -palace in the country, the other resembles a gentleman’s quiet, city -home. Long’s differs from every other hotel I have seen in this respect, -that all of its bedrooms have rich hangings, and the walls of each are -decorated with works of art. The apartments are not cold and bare, as -are the bedrooms of most hotels; they suggest home-like comforts, and -are furnished in the best taste. The walls of the dining-room at Long’s -are hung with Gobelin tapestry, and on the whole it may be called a -beautifully appointed hotel. H. J. Herbert, manager.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE BRISTOL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>They have some very attractive hotels in Boston; the Brunswick, for -example, and everybody has heard of the beautiful Spanish hotels in St. -Augustine, and the great Auditorium in Chicago. I have lived at all -these houses, also at the Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, and at -California’s other famous house, the Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, with -its 126 acres for a garden. There are few or none that are more gorgeous -than these, and they always come to one’s memory when discussing the -best hotels, but certainly New York City cannot boast of a hotel -interior that equals in tasteful decorations those of the Bristol in -London. It is a gem in its way.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span></p> - -<p>A veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of the Bristol. It is -minus the onyx tables and costly paintings you see at the Ponce de Leon -in St. Augustine, and the “gold” chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many -American hotels: everything in this room at the Bristol, from the soft -carpet on the floor to the decoration on the ceiling, is rich, but also -quiet in tone—soothing and harmonious. The Royal Academy, the -Burlington Arcade (a fashionable shopping street) and Piccadilly are all -within a few hundred feet of the Bristol. The Bristol is patronized by -such well-known New Yorkers as the Vanderbilts, the Twomblys and the -owner of the New York <i>World</i>. Telegraph or write to the Bristol Hotel, -Burlington Gardens, London, W.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE HOTEL ALBEMARLE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Although rebuilt and opened as recently as the beginning of 1890, the -Hotel Albemarle has already gained a position and reputation as one of -the most select and fashionable hotels in London. Its situation, to -begin with, has undoubtedly had much to do with its immediate success. -It conspicuously fronts the north end of the celebrated thoroughfare, -St. James’s street, in the centre of the court quarter of London, and -stands at the corner of Albemarle street and Piccadilly. No better -location for a hotel destined to be at once aristocratic and accessible -to the traveling public could have been selected. Towering high above -the surrounding buildings, the Albemarle, with its double façade, -seventy-five feet on Piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street from -which it takes its name, cannot fail to attract observation. It is built -of terra cotta in the Francis I. style of architecture, and the general -effect is both graceful and imposing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span></p> - -<p>The main entrance is in Albemarle street. The interior of the hotel is -furnished and decorated in a variety of styles of the Renaissance -period. The furniture and decoration of the dining-room, ladies’ -drawing-room on the ground floor, the fitting and decoration of the hall -and staircase, are treated in the style of Francis I. The style of Henri -II. has been adopted for the first and second floors; the third floor is -in the style of Louis XV., and the fourth in that of Louis XIV. Special -mention must be made of the “Rubens Room,” furnished and decorated -effectively in the Louis XV. style. This apartment derives its name from -a fine painting which adorns the ceiling, and which is believed to be -from the brush, either of Rubens himself or of one of his pupils.</p> - -<p>The furnishing, fitting and decorating of the Hotel Albemarle were -effected by the well-known London firm of Shoolbred, after designs from -a famous French artist. The building being of such recent erection, it -is scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern improvements has -been neglected in its construction. The most careful attention has been -paid to sanitary arrangements, and the hotel is lighted throughout by -electricity. In the two years which have elapsed since it was opened, it -has quickly become renowned for the excellence of its cuisine and -service. Its wine cellar is one of the choicest in London.</p> - -<p>Royalty, the nobility, and visitors of the highest fashion patronize the -Hotel Albemarle. During the London season, in particular, its rooms are -crowded with distinguished guests. To Americans, especially, it should -prove a most attractive resort, if only on account of the brilliant and -aristocratic neighborhood in which it is situated. St. James’s Park, St. -James’s Palace and Marlborough House are near at hand. Hyde Park, with -its “Drive” and “Row,” is within five minutes’ walk. The Art Galleries, -the theatres,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> the Opera House, the Houses of Parliament, the clubs, -Westminster Abbey, and several of the principal museums are within the -compass of a shilling cab fare. The best and most fashionable shops in -London are situated in the near vicinity, in Piccadilly and in Bond and -Regent streets, while Oxford street, where many of the cheaper shops are -to be found, is but a short distance off—in short, it may be said that -the Hotel Albemarle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life -and business of London.</p> - -<p>Interest attaches to Albemarle street itself as an historical -thoroughfare. During the last century it enjoyed peculiar reputation as -a place of residence at the west end of the metropolis, and not a little -of this old-time prestige clings to it still. The Prince of Wales, -afterwards George the Second, once lived in Albemarle street, and when -Louis the Eighteenth of France was in England in 1814 he made it his -place of stay, and held, at the now defunct “Grillon’s Hotel,” his -receptions of the leaders of the English nobility. The famous publishing -house, Murray’s, through whose doors have passed such celebrities in the -world of letters as Byron, Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Hallam, Tom Moore, -Gifford, Lockhart, Washington Irving and many others, is situated -immediately opposite the entrance to the Hotel. You would never imagine -that it was a publishing house or business house of any kind. It looks -like an ordinary private dwelling, and the only sign on the building is -one small, dull brass plate on the front wall upon which is engraved -“Mr. Murray.”</p> - -<p>The proprietor of the Hotel Albemarle is Mr. A. L. Vogel. He is to be -congratulated on the rapid success he has met with in his efforts to -establish one of the best of London hotels. Mr. Vogel has purchased the -freehold of property adjoining the Albemarle Hotel, and a large addition -to the hotel will be erected presently, thus affording room for a new -<i>salle a manger</i> and some thirty more bedrooms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span></p> - -<p>Mr. Vogel issues as a “Guide to London” a comprehensive and, in its way, -a complete little book of fifty pages, illustrated and prettily bound in -cloth. It is sent free to any address in the world on application. -Address The Albemarle, Albemarle street, Piccadilly, London.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE BURLINGTON HOTEL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The Burlington is in Cork street, a select, and fashionable business -thoroughfare between Bond street and Regent street. In this immediate -locality are also to be found Long’s Hotel, the Bristol, Almond’s Hotel, -patronized by Chauncey Depew and his family, and Brown’s Hotel in Dover -street. The last-named house affects not to desire American patronage. -The Burlington has enjoyed for over a century a truly unique reputation -and position in London. The hotel, as seen from the Burlington street -side, has a dignified exterior. It was erected in the year 1723, after -designs by Kent, by Richard, third earl of Burlington, but the Cork -street side was added to the old hotel in 1828.</p> - -<p>It contains about one hundred and fifty rooms, and among these are as -fine apartments as may be met with in any hotel in the world. The hotel -entrance and the staircase are strikingly attractive, and the galleries, -opening from the staircase to the first floor, have a most charming -effect. Pretty alcoves occupy the ends of the gallery, and on the side -opposite to the colonnade, which looks on to the staircase, is a richly -ornamented doorway leading to the drawing-rooms. The latter possess -curiously decorated ceilings, painted in oil, with vases, birds, -foliage, etc., the work of an Italian artist of the eighteenth century.</p> - -<p>The bedrooms are also interesting, as they retain their original carved -wood mantelpieces and doorways.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> There are several noble old rooms on -the ground floor with tastefully designed mantelpieces, panelling, -cornices, doorways and richly painted ceilings, which might have served -for the background of one of Hogarth’s pictures.</p> - -<p>In the halls are fine, delicately carved benches by Grinling Gibbons. In -their time the old frescoes have been admired by many famous celebrities -who have sojourned at the Burlington. “Kitty,” the celebrated Countess -of Queensberry, friend of Gay, dispensed her well-known hospitality at -this hostelry, and Florence Nightingale occupied a suite of apartments -there for some months after the Crimean war. Here, too, Macaulay wrote a -portion of his famous history.</p> - -<p>Coming to more recent times, there is scarcely a well-known face in -London that does not know this aristocratic hotel. Lord Beaconsfield, -when he was plain “Mr. Disraeli,” was president of a committee which met -there weekly for the purpose of erecting a statue to the memory of the -late Earl of Derby. The ex-premier, Mr. Gladstone, and his family have -patronized the Burlington for the past fifty years. The Marquis of -Salisbury may be occasionally passed in the corridors on his way to the -royal apartments of King Leopold, and the Prince of Wales arrives -unattended to visit august relatives, who patronize the Burlington. -Henry Irving gives his delightful dinner parties there, and the Royal -College of Physicians have dined there monthly since 1830. Among -distinguished Americans whose names are on the books, may be found -George Peabody, the philanthropist, who resided there for eight months, -also Jefferson Davis, John Jacob Astor, Mr. Bancroft, General Schenck -and General Sandford. Henry M. Stanley also is on the cosmopolitan list -of celebrated guests of the Burlington.</p> - -<p>The Burlington, as well as the Buckingham Palace Hotel, opposite -Buckingham Palace, has for many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> years been managed by Mr. George Cooke, -who is one of the proprietors, and under whose administration both -hotels have acquired a reputation second to none in Europe. Electric -light, new sanitation and every other modern improvement have been -introduced, and both the British public, as well as American visitors to -London, have been quick to appreciate Mr. Cooke’s effort to make his -hotels real London homes for people of taste and refinement.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE SAVOY.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>A London hotel that has, so to speak, jumped into popularity is the -Savoy Hotel. It is a new house, on the Victoria embankment, with the -Strand at its back, the public gardens in front and the Thames at its -feet. It lies between Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge, and for a -“finger post” it has Cleopatra’s needle. There is an entrance for foot -passengers from the Strand and a carriage drive from the embankment -directly into the courtyard, like that of the Palace Hotel in San -Francisco, the Grand Hotel in Paris, and the Grand in Brussels. In fact, -the Savoy is more like a continental than an English house, and the -owners call it “the Hotel de Luxe of the world.” Luxurious in site, size -and appointments, the Savoy certainly is. It is not continental, -however, in its system of charges. Nor for that matter is it like any -other London hotel, its system being American. In all Parisian hotels -candles are a separate charge: in nearly all European hotels attendance -is a separate item, and in most hotels in the civilized world you must -pay extra for baths. Not so at the Savoy. When you are told the rate for -an apartment everything is included—everything of course but -meals—bedroom, lights, attendance and baths. There are sixty-seven<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> -bath rooms in the house, and beneath it there is an artesian well four -hundred and twenty feet deep. The boiling water, as well as the cold, -like Jacobs’s bottle, is inexhaustible, and you can bathe to your -heart’s content. You can hire a room for two persons for two dollars a -day, or you may engage a suite at twenty dollars a day.</p> - -<p>As to table, you may live economically at the Savoy, or you may live -like a prince—a rich prince. Here are the definite and fixed rates at -the Savoy:—bedrooms for one person, from seven and sixpence (nearly two -dollars) per day; for two persons, ten-and-six; suites of apartments -containing sitting-room, bed-room, dressing-room and private bath-room, -from thirty shillings per day. Breakfast from two shillings to -three-and-six; luncheon, four shillings; dinner, seven-and-six; dinner -served in private rooms ten-and-six. Guests’ servants are boarded at six -shillings per day; price of room according to location. If you want to -live in style and enjoy, at its best, life in London, engage a suite at -the Savoy, including parlor and bath-room, with private lobby and -private balcony overlooking the Thames. It makes no difference what -floor you select: there are “lifts” in the house, so large and luxurious -as to be justly called “ascending rooms:” they run day and night. The -rooms on the top floor are equal in height of ceiling to those on the -lower floors, and the furniture is of the same quality throughout the -house. General manager, C. Ritz; acting manager, L. Echenard.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL WINDSOR.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The Hotel Windsor is in Victoria street, only five minutes’ walk from -Victoria Station, two minutes’ walk from the American Legation, a few -steps from Westminster<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span> Abbey, Westminster Bridge, the Houses of -Parliament, St. James’s Park and the Home Office. The dining-room of the -Windsor is an especially cheerful apartment and it overlooks the pretty -garden of a church. The great plate glass windows in this dining-room -are larger than the windows in any other hotel, so large that they are -only moved up or down by ropes to which handles are attached. They let -in plenty of daylight, almost as much as streams freely into the -dining-room of the Hotel Pasaje, Havana, which opens on the street, and -which is not encumbered with windows at all.</p> - -<p>The Hotel Windsor is not only kept by a “proprietor” in the accepted -American use of that term, but the furniture, the building and the -ground on which it stands are owned in fee (“freehold,” as English -people call it), by two men, J. R. Cleave and V. D. B. Cooper, the first -named being the actual and active manager of the house, who makes it his -home, the title of the firm being J. R. Cleave & Co. The premises -include fifteen thousand square feet of ground, which, without the -imposing ten-story stone structure upon it, is valued at forty-five -thousand pounds sterling—not far short of a quarter million dollars.</p> - -<p>The Windsor is fortunate in its location. A shilling cab takes you to -any theatre or to the shopping centre, and ’buses pass the door every -minute for Charing Cross, Trafalgar square and the Strand. Time, ten -minutes; fare, two cents, inside or out.</p> - -<p>There is a lift at the Windsor of modern style; the house is lighted by -electricity; there are Turkish and swimming baths on the lower floor; to -avoid disagreeable odors the kitchen is at the top of the house; the -bedrooms are scrupulously clean, the <i>cuisine</i> and wines are of the best -quality, and the charges moderate. You can live at the Windsor, if you -prefer it, on the American plan—rate, about four dollars a day. The -European<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals—a -delicious lunch for sixty cents: choice service.</p> - -<p>If this is the description of a model hotel, worthy in every respect of -the best patronage, “that,” as humorist Gilbert says, “is the idea I -intended to convey.” The Windsor was built about twelve years ago. -Address, J. R. Cleave, manager, Victoria street, Westminster, S. W.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>BAILEY’S HOTELS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Americans going to London for business, intent upon shopping, -theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing, find hotels in the Strand, or -hotels near Trafalgar square, very convenient. Reference is made to the -Grand, the Métropole, the Savoy, and the Victoria, in their alphabetical -order. The Langham, in Portland place, and those select houses near -Burlington Gardens and Piccadilly—Long’s, the Bristol, the Burlington -and the Albermarle, are also central, convenient, and in a fashionable -district.</p> - -<p>If, however, a family is going to London for a protracted stay and the -desire of their hearts is to be in an ultra-fashionable locality, where -the aristocracy reside, and where quiet and selectness reign and -salubrity is assured, then Bailey’s Hotel, on the corner of Gloucester -and Cromwell roads, is recommended and recommends itself. If you are in -haste and do not care for a cab, the “underground” will take you from -“the city” or from Charing Cross to Bailey’s Hotel in fifteen minutes, -fare five cents, third class; fifteen cents in a first-class carriage.</p> - -<p>When you reach Gloucester Road Station you are at Bailey’s Hotel, and -within a few minutes walk of Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, Cromwell -Gardens, Stanhope Gardens, Queen’s Gate Gardens, etc., etc. Near at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span> -hand are the Albert Memorial, Albert Hall, and South Kensington Museum. -Not only is Bailey’s Hotel in the heart of this fashionable locality, -surrounded by the residences of members of the nobility and others, but -the hotel itself is under royal patronage, and has entertained the -Prince of Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh, the Duke of Connaught, the -Princess Marie, the Princess Louise, and other members of the royal -household.</p> - -<p>The hotel, which stands on the property of Lord Harrington, who owns all -the land hereabouts, was built in 1875. It is a brick building, six -stories high—a modern hotel with modern improvements, and all possible -safeguards against annoyances and dangers. There are accommodations for -two hundred and fifty guests. In the rear of the house is a beautiful -garden.</p> - -<p>The decorations and furnishings of the apartments are in admirable -taste, and display an individual and artistic sense of fitness. The -style is especially English, but also especially beautiful—there is no -gaudiness, but neither is there dinginess. Unlike American hotels, -little space is given to halls, bar-room, etc., but there is a cosey, -homelike atmosphere, which is enhanced by the rich and substantial -surroundings. Because the bar, with its glitter of glass and brass does -not obtrude itself, let it not be supposed that wine is eschewed. On the -contrary, the wine cellar is a feature of the house, and the stock of -wines is valued at ten thousand pounds. As to the quality of the wines, -and, by the way, that of the cuisine, they are unsurpassed in London. -The sanitary arrangements bear the closest inspection. Some of the very -old and small London hotels are not to be trusted in case of fire. -Bailey’s Hotel is American-like in the particulars of fire-escapes and -preparations for extinguishing a fire.</p> - -<p>There is no attempt to lead people to believe that very low prices -prevail or that Bailey’s is a “cheap house”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> in any sense of the term. -On the contrary, you pay for the best, and you get it. You can live at -Bailey’s Hotel on the European plan at about the same rate as at an -American hotel of the first-class. Single rooms rent at about one dollar -per day; double rooms from a dollar and a half; suites from four dollars -and a half upward. These are the winter rates. They are a trifle higher -during “the season.”</p> - -<p>As at all English hotels, breakfast varies in price from fifty cents to -seventy-five cents; luncheon from sixty cents; table d’hôte dinner, one -dollar and twenty-five cents. Of course it is English, and there are -some extras. It is a rule at every English hotel, except the Savoy in -London, to make a separate charge for “attendance,” about thirty-five -cents per day for each person, and Bailey’s conforms to the rule. No -American likes it and it seems odd, but it is the custom in England, and -when in Rome—-. Four dollars per week is the charge for each member of -the canine race.</p> - -<p>So much for Bailey’s Hotel proper, but the same proprietor, Mr. James -Bailey, is also proprietor of the South Kensington Hotel, and, strange -to say, the two hotels are distant from each other only five minutes’ -walk, the South Kensington being in Queen’s Gate Terrace.</p> - -<p>Being in the same locality, and having the same proprietor, the above -remarks and particulars will apply, almost word for word, to both -houses. Americans who prefer a quiet, aristocratic quarter, and -especially those who have children, will make no mistake in applying for -rooms at either hotel, each with its surrounding parks and gardens being -particularly adapted to families. For the South Kensington, address -Queen’s Gate Terrace, London, S. W.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>IN JERMYN STREET.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>A couple of small, quiet hotels in Jermyn street—a street which runs -parallel with Piccadilly—may be found pleasant by families or by ladies -without escort. They lack that bustle and noise to which some people -object, and they are not “company hotels,” that is to say the head and -front of each is always visible and approachable. Mr. Rawlings is -proprietor of the Rawlings Hotel, and Mr. Morle with his family keeps -and manages the house which bears his name.</p> - -<p>While Jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are quiet, plenty of -life and gayety are to be had near at hand. Bond street and Regent -street, two of the most fashionable shopping streets of London, are hard -by, and the parks and palaces are within walking distance. Rawlings’ -Hotel is famous for its cuisine, and a feature at Morle’s is that you -can arrange to live on the American plan if you prefer, the charges -being “inclusive,” as they call this plan there, and very moderate -withal. Both these houses are homelike and comfortable, but they are not -strictly fashionable.</p> - -<p>Do not confuse Morle’s in Jermyn street with Morley’s in Trafalgar -square. Morley’s has a magnificent outlook, with the noble Nelson -Monument, Landseer’s lions and the playing fountains in front, and the -dinner served at Morley’s is of the best quality, but the house is very -old and rather worn, notwithstanding its white and attractive exterior.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE NORFOLK’S MODERATE CHARGES.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>If you want to get away from the Strand, Regent street and Piccadilly; -if you are tired of the glare and blare of showy “American hotels,” and -you prefer a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> very quiet, but healthy locality, jot down in your -memorandum book, “Norfolk Hotel, Harrington Road, South Kensington, -S.W.” The Norfolk was built in the year 1889, not by a company, but by -Mr. A. Fatman, who himself keeps the house. It is not large, there is -room only for eighty guests, but these eighty can be made very -comfortable.</p> - -<p>It is not like a hotel in certain respects. The rooms are not all of one -size nor of one shape. The furniture does not look as if it were turned -out by machinery in Grand Rapids and bought by the car-load. It has -character and distinction, no suites of furniture being alike. There is -nothing at the Norfolk to remind you, for instance, of a Salt Lake -hotel, with its great halls and corridors, and its cold, bare walls. -Good taste, as well as money, was used in building and furnishing the -Norfolk, and the result is an attractive, cosy, home-like house.</p> - -<p>After entering the Norfolk and admiring its pleasant surroundings, the -tariff of charges will surprise you. Rooms are let as low as two-and-six -(about sixty cents) a night, and, wonderful to relate for a London -hotel, there is no charge for attendance. Fish breakfast, one-and-six -(thirty-five cents); afternoon tea, sixpence; the same price for hot or -cold bath.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE FIRST AVENUE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Don’t be prejudiced at the sound of “First Avenue Hotel.” It is in -Holborn, a bustling, busy thoroughfare, but which has nothing in common -with our First avenue in New York. The Gordon’s Hotel Company made a -mistake in naming the house; they meant to say Fifth Avenue Hotel, for -the First Avenue Hotel ranks probably with our Fifth Avenue Hotel in -New<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> York, only the First Avenue is not an old house. Holborn is one of -London’s main arteries, a continuation, east, of Oxford street. The -First Avenue is not very far from St. Paul’s and Newgate. The former -being a noble cathedral, you will wish to get into; the latter being a -prison, you will wish to keep out of, unless for a temporary visit.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>OTHER HOTELS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Another hotel in Holborn which may be commended is the Holborn Viaduct -Hotel, near the city station of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway.</p> - -<p>A pleasant house in High Holborn is the Inns of Court; neither -fashionable nor grand, but select and comfortable; largely patronized by -English people. Terms moderate. The main entrance is in Lincoln’s Inn -Fields.</p> - -<p>There are some famous old houses farther east, in the city, in such a -bustling, busy quarter as St. Martin’s le Grand, near the General Post -Office. The Queen’s Hotel in this neighborhood is best known.</p> - -<p>Not far from this locality is the Manchester Hotel, in Aldersgate -street. The proprietor of the Manchester Hotel especially solicits -American patronage.</p> - -<p>Those who desire to make frequent visits to the Houses of Parliament and -that grand old pile, Westminster Abbey, will find the Westminster Palace -Hotel convenient. It has an imposing front, in Victoria street, -Westminster, almost opposite to the Abbey. Within five minutes’ walk of -this hotel are the Home Office, St. James’s Park, the Horse Guards, -Westminster Bridge, leading to the Surrey side of London, the United -States Legation, and the Victoria Station of the London, Chatham and -Dover Railway. The favorite and well kept<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> Hotel Windsor, referred to -elsewhere, is also in Victoria street, and still nearer to the Station -and the Legation before mentioned.</p> - -<p>Convenient to Hyde Park are the Alexandra Hotel, 16 to 21 St. George’s -Place, Hyde Park Corner, and the Hyde Park Hotel. The latter is at the -west end of Oxford street, in Hyde Park Place, near the Marble Arch.</p> - -<p>Claridge’s Hotel used to be considered “the crack” house of London, and -it is still patronized by the nobility, members of the diplomatic corps -and by royalty. Nos. 49 to 55 Brook street, Grosvenor Square.</p> - -<p>The Hotels connected with the railway stations are large structures, -solidly built, fire-proof, as a general rule, and fitted up with every -modern contrivance. They are desirable stopping places if you arrive -late at night or if you intend to make an early start by rail, from the -station, in the morning. They were erected for that purpose and they -serve it admirably.</p> - -<p>There are very many reputable hotels in London which are worthy of the -best patronage, detailed reference to which, in this limited space, it -would not be possible to make.</p> - -<p>If none of the hotels described or alluded to in the foregoing list -suits your plans and purposes, consult friends who have had experience -in such matters. But don’t go, hap-hazard, into the smallest and oldest -London hotels of whose very existence you never heard. Some of them are -unpleasant, as residences; others are unhealthy. If your stay in London -is short there is every reason why you should put up at the best houses. -If you make a protracted visit and desire to economize, go to a boarding -house or take lodgings. You will see signs in windows all over London: -hire rooms and eat where your fancy or purse directs. London -housekeepers are glad to “eke out” by letting rooms in the summer, and -with a small tip now and then to the maid, life can be made very -comfortable in London lodgings.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>A FEW BOARDING HOUSES.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>There are plenty of first-class boarding houses where Americans are -welcome. Five or six come to mind—Mrs. Pool’s, No. 20 Bedford place; -Mrs. Goodman’s, No. 13 Montague place; Mrs. Philp’s, No. 6 Montague -place; Mrs. Wright’s, No. 15 Upper Woburn place, and Mr. Cooper’s, No. 1 -Bedford place, Russell square. Mrs. Philp is an American whose husband -keeps the Cockburn Hotel in Glasgow; and there is a Philp’s Cockburn -Hotel in Edinburgh. Mrs. Philp’s drawing-room is beautiful, the -dining-room cheerful, and there is a pretty garden which is backed by -the walls of the British Museum, so Mrs. Philp is easily found.</p> - -<p>Those who want to live economically but comfortably are recommended to -the handsome private hotel or <i>pension</i> of Mrs. Marcus Pool, 20 Bedford -place, Russell square. This is a pleasant and convenient quarter of the -city—quite handy for the British Museum, not far from Charing Cross, -and a shilling cab fare to railway stations and places of amusement. The -house is furnished and appointed on a liberal scale; the drawing-room is -large and cheerful; the bedrooms are luxuriously fitted up in the best -taste, and they have a pleasant outlook. There is a Broadwood piano, -also a new billiard room, with a table from the famous firm of Bennett. -The house has a refined, home-like air, well representing the character -of Mrs. Pool and her charming daughter. French and German are spoken. -The terms at the Pool pension are from two dollars a day, which include -breakfast, table d’hôte dinner and attendance—“everything inclusive.” -Those are the terms “in the season;” the winter rates are lower. The -cuisine is of the substantial English quality, but not heavy. At Pool’s -pension you are sure to meet cultivated and select people. Those who -have been Mrs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> Pool’s guests appear perfectly satisfied; for they -return again and again. Mr. Cooper keeps a good house and he caters to -people accustomed to refined surroundings. He is a typical Londoner of -the middle class—honest, blunt and out-spoken. Mrs. Lucy H. Hooper, -wife of the American Vice-Consul in Paris, recommends No. 1 Bedford -place. Mrs. Hooper makes it her stopping place when she is in London.</p> - -<p>“American Family Home.”—An establishment which meets with especial -favor among fastidious tourists is Demeter House, 13 Montague place, -Russell square, W. C. The location is select, within easy access of the -centres of shopping and amusement. The house is kept by Mrs. A. Goodman, -who aims to maintain a house replete with the comforts and freedom of a -refined home and the advantages of a hotel, but with less expense. The -house is spacious and well furnished, the table excellent and carefully -provided. Many leading American families make this their home during -their annual visits to London.</p> - -<p>Put down “No. 15 Upper Woburn place, Tavistock square,” and note that it -is not far from Euston station. It is a quiet street. The house is kept -by an English woman of refinement, Mrs. Wright and her maiden daughters, -and it may be commended as a pleasant Christian home, where grace is -said before meals.</p> - -<p>Of these boarding houses, like all the hotels mentioned in this article, -the writer speaks from his own knowledge and experience. But don’t count -on getting accommodation in London hotels in the season, without making -previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of your arrival, or -you may be disappointed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="WHERE_TO_LUNCH_IN_LONDON" id="WHERE_TO_LUNCH_IN_LONDON"></a>WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON,<br /> - -<small>AND WHERE NOT TO LUNCH.</small></h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>It may be set down at the outset that there are no restaurants in London -equal to Delmonico’s in Fifth avenue, or the Café Savarin in the -Equitable Building, New York, and no London restaurant serves a table -d’hôte dinner at any price equal in quality and style of service to that -furnished at the select and elegant “Cambridge,” Fifth avenue and 33d -street, New York.</p> - -<p>Neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will compare with -Mouquin’s, in Ann street, where everything is cooked to a turn, and -where even a fastidious <i>gourmet</i> need not find fault. There are two or -three Italian places in Regent street where they serve a -“Chateaubriand,” enough for two persons, for one dollar, but nowhere do -you get a dish of maccaroni that is more palatable than at Mouquin’s, -and neither in London nor Paris do you get as good Burgundy for the -price as Mouquin’s beaujolais—half bottle, forty cents.</p> - -<p>The foreign halls are more richly gilded, and the furniture is of finer -texture, but if you are looking for as good food and as well served at -that at Mouquin’s, at Mouquin’s prices, you will look in vain.</p> - -<p>In the price of wines, however, no first-class hotel or restaurant -anywhere that I know of sells wines as low as the manager of the Hotel -del Monte, Monterey, Cal. In France, on the Swiss border, I found <i>vin -ordinaire</i> almost as cheap as water, in the small inns. The Hotel del -Monte, please bear in mind, is a superbly appointed and grand -establishment, and they serve you a half<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> bottle of good California -Zinfandel for fifteen cents. But then this hotel company own their own -vineyards, and make no profit on wine served at table. It is a sort of -“sample” or advertisement for their wines.</p> - -<p>“The Aerated Bread Shops,” which are as “thick as flies” in London, are -probably good enough places to drop into if you are in a great hurry, -for a cup of coffee or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry, digestible seed -cake. If you abhor marble tables, if you must have a <i>serviette</i> and you -would avoid a crowd and mixed company, keep out of the “aerated bread -shops,” and by the same token and by all means keep out of the Lockhart -lunch shops. The “aerated bread shops” are tolerable; the others are -not.</p> - -<p>Much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread shops or Lockhart’s -lunch shops is the confectionery and cake counter of William Buszard, -197 and 199 Oxford street, where everything is clean and inviting. A -similar place of the first-class is that in “the city” of Alfred -Purssell & Co., No. 80 Cornhill, E. C. The proprietor of this -establishment is related to the late William Purssell, founder of the -famous restaurant in Broadway which still bears his name. There are -several pleasant places in and near Piccadilly where you may obtain a -cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich, just enough to “stay the -appetite.” One of the best of these is Callard’s, 146 New Bond street, -but even in this neat and clean little shop they don’t know what a -<i>serviette</i> is.</p> - -<p>Romano’s, called “The Vaudeville,” 399 Strand, is recommended for its -moderate charges, but this is a place I have never tried. So much for -the confectioners and the cheap restaurants.</p> - -<p>The Tivoli restaurant, up stairs, connected with the Tivoli Music Hall, -is in the Strand, just East of Charing Cross. “La Haute Cuisine -Française,” as they term it, is in charge of a famous <i>chef</i>, M. Gerard. -A Table d’Hôte<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> Luncheon, at 2s. 6d., from 12 to 3; Parisian dinner, at -5s., from 6 to 9, served in the Flemish Room.</p> - -<p>Londoners are proud of their Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, where -the glass and the brass and the marble columns are resplendent and -imposing, and where you are regaled with vocal music (English glees) -during the dinner hour, but the meals are not daintily served: the -butter is not cold, and the plates are not warm, and unless you order a -costly meal at the Holborn Restaurant, the waiter may wait on you with -condescension. Dinner, three-and-six.</p> - -<p>If you are in “the city,” in the neighborhood of the Bank (the Bank of -England), and you have a desire to see how and where some of the brokers -and commission merchants lunch, step into the Winchester House in -Bishopgate street—a well-lighted, well-furnished restaurant, where no -charge is made to customers, strange to say, for use of water and soap.</p> - -<p>Ladies who are in the neighborhood of Westminster Abbey or who have -business at the American Legation, are recommended to the Army and Navy -stores, in Victoria street, opposite the Windsor Hotel, where a dainty -lunch is served at a very moderate sum. You can do your shopping in the -same large establishment. They sell everything, from a poached egg to an -Axminster carpet or a wedding outfit. The Army and Navy stores is on the -coöperative plan. To gain entrance you must either use a member’s ticket -number or use good judgment.</p> - -<p>Gatti is a well-known name in the Strand, where the Gattis have two -large, gaudily furnished restaurants, one of which extends to King -William street. The Gattis are also owners of the Adelphi Theatre, where -you may always enjoy a drama—if you enjoy melodrama. The Gattis are -Swiss, and one of the brothers is a legislator in one of the Swiss -Cantons. They commenced in a small way, in the east end of London, many<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> -years ago and made a reputation for their ices. They long since moved to -the west end, where they increased their business and they now conduct a -thriving trade. All Gatti’s waiters are foreigners. They are a talkative -set and some people might prefer that their linen be nearer the color of -snow.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>IN REGENT STREET.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>If you are in the neighborhood of Piccadilly Circus, a fair place to get -luncheon at a fair price is “the Florence” in Rupert street, Regent -street. It is an Italian restaurant; the lunch is served table d’hôte -and the price is one shilling and sixpence. But there is no profit to -the restaurateur in the mere lunch: you are expected to order -wine—indeed that is the expectation in all English restaurants and -hotels—all hotels that are not temperance houses. At the Florence you -can get dinner from six to nine, for half-a-crown—sixty-two cents—and -you order wine of course.</p> - -<p>If you are fond of high living, and you don’t mind paying for it, take a -meal in the middle of the day or <i>early</i> in the evening at the Hotel -Continental. It is in the lower part of Regent street, on the corner of -Waterloo place, within the shadow of the Duke of York column. It was one -of the first houses in London to adopt the French style in name—Hotel -Continental in lieu of Continental Hotel—and it was one of the first to -serve a first class dinner in the French style. The reputation for its -<i>cuisine</i> is second to none, and the hotel prides itself upon the -accuracy of the names and vintages of the wines supplied. It has the -monopoly in London of that famous brand of champagne, “<i>Medaille d’Or</i>” -which received the grand prize in the French Exhibition<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span> of 1878 over -sixty other competing wines. Cigarettes made of the finest tobacco are -manufactured expressly for the hotel in Constantinople and Salonica.</p> - -<p>There is always a very gay scene in the Hotel Continental supper room -after the theatres close; it might become too lively in the early hours -of the morning, but the police regulations oblige such places as the -Continental to close their doors at one A.M. Dinner from seven-and-six -to twelve-and-six, without wine, of course; for although you are in the -Continental you are not on the Continent. A. Y. Wilson, who has been -connected with the house since its opening, is the manager.</p> - -<p>More attention is given to “the inner man” in London than in any other -place I wot of. They seem to live to eat there, not eat to live, and yet -some one has noted this difference—you eat dinner in London, while in -Paris you dine. Mention the subject of restaurants in London and the -majority will ask you, “Have you dined at Verrey’s in Regent street?” -Yes, I’ve been to Verrey’s and I found it very gloomy, and very -expensive not to say oppressive. You are in the middle of the house and -the room is lighted from a skylight. It is not at all cheerful.</p> - -<p>Blanchard’s, “The Burlington,” 169 Regent street, is patronized by the -higher classes. Dinner from five shillings to twelve-and-six. No higher -priced dinner in London.</p> - -<p>For a healthful, nicely-served meal, whether it consist of a mutton chop -and a boiled potato or a dinner of several courses, much better than the -aforesaid establishments in Regent street is the Café Royal, at No. 68 -Regent street. In the “Grand Café Restaurant Royal,” where dinner is -served, prices rule high. For luncheon go into the “Grill Room” of the -Café Royal. You will find the rates reasonable, the food of the best, -the appointments on a grand scale, and the service satisfactory.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> These -remarks will also apply to “The Monico,” at Piccadilly Circus and -Shaftesbury avenue.</p> - -<p>The St. James Restaurant, which extends from Piccadilly to Regent -street, with entrances on both streets, is a large, showy place, with -plenty of glitter about it, and wearing the big-sounding title of St. -James Hall. The rates are not low, the food is not of the choicest -quality, the service is not of the best, and the waiters may over-charge -you unless you watch them closely. The charge for washing your hands at -the St. James, be you a patron or not, is two-pence. This is a regular -charge made by the proprietors, but if you don’t also fee the man who -hands you a towel or fills your basin, you might get a cold reception -down-stairs the next time you call, and you may fill your own basin.</p> - -<p>At the Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus, you can take your choice; go up -stairs, and the charges are higher; down in the basement the same dishes -are served at a lower price. To quote their bill, “table d’hôte -three-and-six, <i>le diner Parisien</i>, five shillings.”</p> - -<p>English people when they are thirsty drink beer, wine, or something -stronger; Americans who live in cities, American women at least, prefer -something weaker, soda water, for instance, which, charged with gas, -looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a highly polished, -silver-plated fountain. Not until recently could American taste in this -matter be gratified in London. Now there are two “American -confectioneries” kept by Fuller, one, the principle establishment, at -206 Regent street; the other, at 358 Strand, both central locations. The -first is close to Oxford Circus and not far from the Langham Hotel. At -Fuller’s you can get ice-cream soda and “caramels fresh ever hour.” In -fact, on a pleasant summer day Fuller’s, in Regent street, will remind -you of Huyler’s on Broadway, and if you are a New Yorker, you will meet -many familiar faces there. If you retain a juvenile <i>penchant</i> for -peanuts, that taste can also be gratified at Fuller’s.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE GRILL ROOM OF THE GRAND.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>So many of the transient guests at hotels in London are out shopping and -sight-seeing, that they generally take only breakfast, or, at most, -breakfast and dinner, at their hotels, always lunching wherever -convenience may permit. The meals at European hotels being usually a -separate charge, the hotel is a sufferer by this custom, so that at -some, if not most houses, it is understood that, if you take your meals -out, a higher charge will be made for your apartment. The manager of the -Grand Hotel, however, has opened a restaurant of his own, in his own -house, which is so attractive that it not only keeps together his -regular guests, but allures “the outside world,” and thus the “Grill -Room,” as it is called, of the Grand has become famous in London.</p> - -<p>While within and a part of the Grand Hotel, it is not reached by the -main entrance in Northumberland avenue. It is at the eastern end of the -building, around the corner, in the Strand, and is in what we would call -in New York a basement, but no ordinary “basement” is this, and the -staircase leading to it is anything but ordinary. The Grill Room of the -Grand is a well-lighted, cheerful apartment, richly carpeted and finely -furnished. The chairs are comfortably upholstered, the walls are -gorgeous with polished tiles, the table furniture is dainty, the food is -of prime quality, and the tariff of charges moderate.</p> - -<p>Don’t be surprised at the charge, two-pence, for washing your hands in -the Grill Room lavatory, and unless you occupy a room, the charge for -use of lavatory in the hotel proper is three-pence; but it is worth half -a crown merely to see the lavatory, or rather the staircase and landing -leading to it, so beautiful are the colored marble fountain, the eastern -rugs, the fernery and the Oriental lamps, with which this lower part of -the house<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> is decorated. The view of this lower part from the marble -staircase on the main floor has been called fairy-like; it is certainly -very pleasing.</p> - -<p>Strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the hotels in Europe as -they are in “the States.” They can’t use the smoking-room, read the -newspapers, loiter about the halls, make a general rendezvous of the -house and help themselves to stationery in European hotels as they do on -this side. Their hotels lack some of our popular features and the -excellent service and discipline of the American hotels, but, on the -other hand, they are not so noisy, and are more private. American hotels -suit Americans, and the hotels in England satisfy the wants and desires -of English people.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>SIMPSON’S DIVAN.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>A Characteristic English Restaurant.—A good, plain, thoroughly -wholesome English dinner is served in an appetizing way by English -waiters at Simpson’s, in the Strand, next door to Terry’s Theatre, -opposite Exeter Hall. You get a bowl of good soup, a course of fish, a -cut from the joint, a salad, two kinds of vegetables, with bread and -butter, a biscuit and a bit of rich Gorgonzola or dry Wiltshire cheese -to wind up with, and your whole bill will be four shillings, to which -add threepence for “attendance,” which is charged in the bill, and about -threepence more which you will hand to the waiter. A feature of the -place is that the hot joint, over a chafing dish and on a small table, -is wheeled round to you, and it is there cut before your eyes and -transferred to your plate. You can get a lower-priced dinner in London, -and higher-priced dinners where you please, but none of a better quality -and none that is more satisfactory unless you demand fancy fol de rols, -indigestible<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span> entrées and French dishes made of little or nothing.</p> - -<p>Simpson’s is justly celebrated for its “fish” dinners. Both these and -the meal above described are served in the middle of the day and in the -evening also. On Sunday the evening dinner only is served; the place is -closed until 6 P.M.</p> - -<p>Simpson’s enjoys the patronage of Henry Irving and of other people -famous in the theatrical world, just as it did in the last century. -Henry Irving’s Lyceum Theatre, by the way, is in the Strand, near -Simpson’s, but on the opposite side of the street. In the summer of 1890 -I saw D’Oyly Carte enjoying his dinner at Simpson’s. This is a special -compliment to the place, because that magnificent hotel, the Savoy, in -which this theatrical manager is interested, is just around the corner -from Simpson’s, on the Thames Embankment. During the summer of ’91 I met -at Simpson’s another theatrical manager, our own Augustin Daly, with his -wife. Mr. and Mrs. Daly occasionally left the Hotel Métropole, where -they had apartments, to partake of one of Simpson’s substantial, -well-cooked and appetizing meals. There’s no Simpson now, the founder -died long ago, but “Simpson’s” is there yet, as it was a hundred years -ago, although it is now a limited company. Howard Paul eulogizes this -place, and Stephen Fiske recommends it. Besides being a brilliant writer -on dramatic matters, Mr. Fiske has made a study of the gastronomic art, -and he lived in London continuously during nine years. The reading -public put faith in Stephen Fiske’s dramatic criticism; his intimates -also trust to his good taste and judgment in ordering a dinner.</p> - -<p>It is a well-known fact that changes in the employees at this -establishment are seldom made. Some of the waiters have stood at the -tables for nearly two decades, and the head waiter has been there -(probably not always as head waiter) for more than thirty years. The -name of this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> head water is Charles Flowerdew, so he informed me, and I -can impart this piece of information—that this same Flowerdew is a -character worth studying. There is nothing of the “Yellowplush” type -about him, but he is such a character, courteous and civil (yes, -seemingly servile to an American’s eye), such as Dickens delighted to -draw.</p> - -<p>Mr. Flowerdew knows all the old customers at Simpson’s, and, what is of -more consequence to a hungry man, he knows all the choice cuts. He will -suggest the best dishes, the rare bits, and he will serve you from the -joint, <i>ad libitum</i>, as he proudly remarks. When next you go to London, -go to Simpson’s, 103 Strand. You will be sure to meet a few London -notabilities, you will be sure of a good dinner, and last, but by no -means least, you will see the polite and dignified Mr. Charles -Flowerdew. Managing director, E. W. Cathie.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_005.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_005_sml.jpg" width="226" height="88" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="RAILWAY_TRAVELLING_IN_ENGLAND" id="RAILWAY_TRAVELLING_IN_ENGLAND"></a>RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>While our facilities in railway travelling have wonderfully improved in -the past ten years, it must not be supposed that in conservative England -they have stood still entirely. But the improvements in carriage -accommodation there have been so steady and gradual that passengers -hardly recognize how much more they get for their money now than they -did a generation back. For instance, the old first-class carriage of -forty years ago was fifteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and -less than five feet high, and this was constructed to seat eighteen -passengers; in other words, each person had about twenty-six cubic feet -of space. In the carriages built to-day to accommodate ten first-class -passengers, each one has ninety cubic feet.</p> - -<p>Nor because we in America have such luxurious Pullman and vestibuled -cars must it be imagined that the English railway carriages have not -comforts and luxuries of their own. Some of them, for example, are built -to seat only two or three persons, thus securing complete privacy to a -party of that number.</p> - -<p>I have never occupied a more comfortable railway carriage than in going, -as I did, last September, from Edinburgh to London over the lines of the -Caledonian and London and Northwestern railways, on the world-famous -train called the “Flying Scotchman”—and a flyer it is. The distance is -four hundred miles, and it is run in eight and one-half hours. You leave -Edinburgh at 10.15 A.M. and reach Euston square before 7 P.M. As there -are several important stations between the two cities at which long -stops are made, the train must<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> make between many of the stations much -more than fifty miles an hour. The speed was so great at times that it -caused unusual vibration, and at times it gave me a slight reminder of -sea-sickness.</p> - -<p>The carriage was built to seat two persons only. In it there were two -large, softly-upholstered, sleep-inviting arm-chairs, one on each side -of the car. Between the two chairs at the back was a door leading to a -lavatory for the sole use of the two passengers. It was supplied with -iced water, washing water, towels, mirror and all the etceteras and -conveniences that are desirable in travelling. The car had in all six -windows—two at each side and two in front. Between the two front -windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror. The floor was richly -carpeted and the carriage was supplied with a number of brass brackets -and hooks for the travellers’ impedimenta. But more than this—across -the front, breast high, was a shelf about six inches wide to hold books -and papers, and below this another shelf about the same width for a -foot-rest.</p> - -<p>The carriage was seven feet square and seven feet high. Here a man and -wife or two friends can make themselves about as comfortable as if they -were at home in their own drawing-room. You exchange your shoes for -slippers, don your smoking jacket and if your companion does not object, -you can enjoy a fragrant Havana. To be sure this is against the rules of -the company and your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty -shillings if you were found out, but the distances are great and the -stops few on this “flying Scotchman,” so there is ample time to enjoy a -smoke undisturbed. No extra fare is demanded for this most luxurious -vehicle; it is simply ranked as a first-class carriage, but you had -better write to the station master and engage such a carriage a day or -two in advance of your intended journey, for not more than one of these -small private cars is by chance attached even to a “flying Scotchman.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span>” -No extra charge is made for this engagement in advance.</p> - -<p>The complaint years ago that passengers were locked in the cars can -seldom now be made. The custom is almost entirely abolished; it caused -so many accidents. The aim of each and every passenger on a British -railway is to secure a seat with his back to the engine. In this way he -avoids draughts of air: draughts from a bottle they never object to. In -fact both men and women drink often and deeply during a journey, but it -does not seem to affect them.</p> - -<p>Time tables are not given away as with us: the charge is a penny, two -cents. You never hear “all aboard” at railway stations, but the much -pleasanter sounding words, “take your seats, please.”</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>LUGGAGE AND BAGGAGE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>You do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for baggage on a -continental railway, but in England seldom or never. Still a piece of -baggage is seldom lost on an English railway. It gets to its proper -destination at last, but it seems to be more by good luck than by good -management. Baggage, or “luggage,” as they term it, goes astray -sometimes, but on the other hand, the system for tracing and finding it -is excellent. They have a “lost luggage” department in the principal -stations.</p> - -<p>They are very particular as to the quantity of baggage. Each passenger -is allowed so many pounds. At every station there is an official who -keeps a sharp eye on the porters who handle trunks, and at the slightest -suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk on the scales -with which all stations are supplied.</p> - -<p>There are strong racks in every car for light luggage, but a great deal -of what we should term heavy baggage<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> finds its way on the racks and -under the seats. Englishmen travel with an extraordinary quantity of -impedimenta. They carry large satchels, also portmanteaus resembling a -good-sized trunk—all because no checks are given. Everybody wants to -keep his luggage in hand or in sight.</p> - -<p>There is a prominent sign posted in some of the large stations to this -effect: “Any porter who is discovered accepting a fee will be instantly -dismissed.” And yet you can’t get your trunk moved an inch without -dropping a few coppers into a porter’s hand. The fee system prevails -everywhere, from the station master who furnishes information to the -uniformed porter who whistles for a “four-wheeler” or hansom. In many -cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by dropping a penny -in a slot. But this is a better arrangement than exists at stations on -the continent, where an old woman stands guard, whom you must fee before -you are allowed to leave.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>A ROYAL RAILWAY TRIP.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>When the Queen of England makes a railway journey it is an event of no -ordinary importance. With her it is not, as with the President of the -United States for example, so simple a matter as climbing up the steps -of a Pullman or getting into a Pennsylvania Florida special or Chicago -limited, and proceeding without fuss. No, when Queen Victoria is about -to travel preparations are made long beforehand and all the regular -arrangements of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the -royal train.</p> - -<p>When Her Majesty journeyed by the Caledonian Railway from Carlisle to -Aberdeen, en route to Gosport and Ballater, many days previous there was -issued the table<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> of instructions for working the trains over the line -on that day. They were intended for the use of the company’s employees -only, who were forbidden to make known their contents. A pilot engine -was sent over the road twenty minutes before the royal train, in charge -of the foreman of the locomotive department. This engine maintained -throughout the journey the uniform interval of twenty minutes. No other -train, engine or vehicle, except passenger trains, was permitted to -travel on the other track between the passing of the pilot and the royal -train, and even passenger trains had to slow down to ten miles per hour.</p> - -<p>One of the orders issued was this: “Drivers of such trains as are -standing on sidings or adjoining lines, waiting for the passing of the -royal train, must prevent their engines from emitting smoke or making a -noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is passing.”</p> - -<p>Brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing projected from their trains. -Each foreman plate-layer, or “section-boss,” as we would say, after -examining his length of line, stationed himself at the south end and an -assistant at the north; after the pilot had passed they walked till they -met, seeing that all was right. The stations were kept clear and the -public admitted at one station only, the last. Even here, cheering or -other demonstration was forbidden, “the object being that Her Majesty -should be perfectly undisturbed during the journey.” These instructions, -signed by James Thompson, general manager, and Irvine Kempt, general -superintendent, were obeyed in their minutest detail.</p> - -<p>It must not be supposed that the company has to pocket the loss when the -Queen travels. The royal lady not only does not travel on “passes,” but -she pays all expenses incurred. A copy of the instructions printed in -gold are presented to the Queen and she cannot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> fail to be gratified by -the care and thought exhibited by the company.</p> - -<p>The entire mileage of the Caledonian Railway is one thousand miles; the -main line from Carlisle to Aberdeen, over which the queen travelled, is -about two hundred and forty miles. It traverses a beautiful country. -From this great trunk run out branches and connections by steamer in all -directions—reaching to all big towns of the country, most of the small -ones, and all the districts famed in Scottish song or history, the -highlands, the lochs, the seaboard, etc. The road is a model road and -one of the best appointed in Great Britain. The tourist, the student and -the sportsman are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of the -tours arranged by the Caledonian company.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>One of the largest English railway systems is that of the London & -Northwestern. The territory covered by this railway extends from London -in the south to Carlisle in the north, and from Cambridge in the east to -Holyhead in the west—an area of three hundred miles in breadth. The -main office of the government is in London, but the capital, so to -speak, is Crewe, a town of thirty-five thousand inhabitants consisting -entirely of the employees of the railway and their families. The total -number in the railway’s service does not fall far short of sixty -thousand. The annual budget amounts to ten million pounds, while the -funded debt has reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling.</p> - -<p>The London and Northwestern shops at Crewe have to keep in repair a -stock of engines that is worth five million pounds sterling, and while -they do not indeed put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes, -they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> do literally every four hours, and in doing so the engines consume -a million tons of coal per annum. On an average, it is reckoned that -every five days an old engine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one.</p> - -<p>Of late years the company has been experimenting on an extensive scale -with a system of metallic permanent way. Steel “keys” fasten the rails -into steel “chairs,” which in their turn are riveted down to steel -sleepers. About thirty miles of line has been laid on this system, with -about sixty thousand sleepers. So far the results are understood to be -satisfactory. The question involved in the conflict between steel and -wooden sleepers is gigantic. A rough calculation shows that to replace -the wooden sleepers on existing lines in Great Britain only would -require about four million tons of steel, without reckoning the weight -of the chairs and keys. And great Britain has only one-fifteenth of the -railway mileage of the world.</p> - -<p>In some ways the goods traffic arrangements of the road at Liverpool are -even more remarkable than those in London. At Liverpool the Northwestern -has six goods stations, two of them reached by tunnels each a mile and a -quarter in length, constructed for their use alone. One of these -stations, Edgehill, is called a goods “yard,” but this yard contains -fifty-seven and a half miles of land, covers two hundred acres of -ground, and has cost about two million pounds sterling—nearly ten -millions of dollars.</p> - -<p>The conductors on the New York street cars, like the New York policemen, -are sullen and sour; they seem ill-tempered, if not ill-natured. You -seldom or never see a smile on their lips, and as for giving utterance -to the common and easy phrase, “thank you,” when they receive a fare, -they wouldn’t be guilty of such a piece of politeness; not they.</p> - -<p>It is different in England, on the Continent, everywhere in Europe. -Whether on a steam road, a steamboat,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> a tram or an omnibus, no officer -nor conductor would think of receiving a fare without thanking a -passenger audibly, and even when an officer opens the door or looks into -the window of a carriage for the purpose of examining tickets, you will -not hear the short, sharp, curt demand, “tickets,” as in the States, but -“all tickets, please,” in a pleasant and agreeable tone.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_006.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_006_sml.jpg" width="77" height="142" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span></p> - -<h2> -<a href="images/ill_007.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_007_sml.jpg" width="167" height="214" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<br /><br /> -AN HOUR WITH SPURGEON.</h2> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>, October 1, 1890.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The Rev. C. H. Spurgeon still draws crowds to his tabernacle, which is -situated in a part of London called Newington Butts. It is by no means a -fashionable district, being in the Southeast end of the city. You tell -any “cabby” to drive you to Spurgeon’s church and he will put you down -at the door. But it is only a twenty minutes’ ride on a ’bus from -Charing Cross; fare four cents.</p> - -<p>That Mr. Spurgeon attracts great throngs of hearers, every one knows, -but here are a few figures: His tabernacle accommodates between six and -seven thousand people, and on Sunday morning, September 28, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> the -writer was present, five thousand four hundred people listened to him. -This was in September, be it remembered, when everybody is out of town -and “London is empty.”</p> - -<p>The regular members and attendants ascend the stone steps and enter the -church through the front door; strangers and visitors get in by a side -entrance, through an alleyway, and as they pass in, a tiny paper -envelope is handed to each person. You drop into the envelope as much or -as little coin as you please (for no human eye is watching you) and this -envelope you in turn drop into an open box on your left, this method -probably taking the place of a collection, which would be so difficult -to manage where five or six thousand people have to be approached.</p> - -<p>People sometimes ask what is the secret of this preacher’s distinguished -success? The foundation of his success is his earnestness and evident -sincerity.</p> - -<p>He impresses his hearers with the belief that he believes what he is -preaching. He does not seem to be making a profession or business of -religion. There is nothing perfunctory in his manner; he rejoices in his -calling.</p> - -<p>Then again Spurgeon is a good and effective speaker. He talks in a slow, -deliberate way, his enunciation being clear and his pronunciation -perfect. Each word is distinct and clean cut. His accent is -cosmopolitan; there is nothing local in it. Except for the pronunciation -of a few words, such for instance, as the word “after,” to which Mr. -Spurgeon gives the broad sound heard in England, you might be puzzled to -know whether the great divine was born “within the sound of Bow Bells” -or graduated from Columbia College.</p> - -<p>His language hypercritical people might not call choice, but I beg to -differ with them; it is exceedingly choice, being directly to the point, -and like the man himself, simple and strong. There is no searching for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span> -fine phrases and well-rounded periods. His ideas flow freely and they -quickly find expression: there is no effect aimed at. The man trusts to -the matter of his discourse, never troubling himself about his manner.</p> - -<p>His gesticulations are few, natural and not at all dramatic. He will -raise his right hand or occasionally take a step towards a small table -hard by: nothing more. His voice is not musical, nor is it especially -pleasing to a stranger’s ear; but it is firm, clear and penetrating, -possessing those qualities most demanded in a public speaker.</p> - -<p>On the morning of which I write Mr. Spurgeon took his text from Psalm -63, 7th verse, and held his hearers spell-bound for about forty minutes -by his brilliant illustrations, his convincing arguments and his -earnestness, for above and beyond all he is deeply in earnest. His -prayer is beautiful; he touches a responsive chord in every heart in his -fervent appeals to God for mercy and help.</p> - -<p>Before the sermon there was singing of psalms and hymns. Mr. Spurgeon -gave out hymn No. 916, “Going to Worship.” It was congregational -singing, without instrumental music, one man near the pulpit acting as a -sort of leader. The singing was too slow for the preacher. After the -second verse he called aloud to the congregation to sing faster, himself -beating time with his right hand. Psalm 34 was next given out, but when -the first verse had been sung Mr. Spurgeon stopped the singing abruptly -and said in a tone which was meant to be commanding: “I must beg that if -you sing at all, you sing faster: there’s more heart in it if you sing -quicker. Praise God as if you meant it; put your soul in the words: it -will be more welcome if there’s spirit in it.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Spurgeon’s deacons, about twelve in all, are seated on two rows of -seats behind him, he and they occupying a high platform and prominent -place—probably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> fifteen feet above the floor of the church, where all -can get a good view of the man’s features—all except the deacons.</p> - -<p>The great preacher is now in his fifty-sixth year. Like his character -and his language, physically he looks strong and rugged, but his health -is not good.</p> - -<p>Mr. Spurgeon belongs to a family of gospel ministers. His grandfather -was an English divine; his father, Rev. James Archer Spurgeon, still -living, now occupies, or did occupy until very recently, a pulpit in -London; and he has two sons who follow his profession—one at Greenwich, -near London, and one at Auckland, New Zealand.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>P. S.—Mr. Spurgeon died at Mentone, France, on Sunday, January 21, -1892, deeply regretted by all who had ever heard him or heard of him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_008.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_008_sml.jpg" width="146" height="150" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_CRYPT_OF_ST_PAULS" id="THE_CRYPT_OF_ST_PAULS"></a>THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL’S.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>All Americans who go to London visit Westminster Abbey, and some of them -make more than one visit. There is a rare charm about the grand old -pile. I never go to London without visiting the Abbey, and this was also -the custom of the late Aaron J. Vanderpoel, with whom I had the honor of -crossing once or twice. On one voyage westward, a fellow passenger was -James R. Cuming, of the famous law firm of Vanderpoel, Cuming and -Goodwin. Mr. Cuming and I were fellow students in the old law firm of -Brown, Hall and Vanderpoel in the days of District Attorney Blunt, -never-mind-how-many years ago. Mr. Cuming’s hair is now tinged with -gray, but he has the same genial, agreeable qualities, and he is just as -modest, eminent and successful lawyer though he now is, as he was when -he and I were boys together in the Broadway Bank building on the corner -of Broadway and Park place. But none of this personal matter has aught -to do with the subject in hand.</p> - -<p>I was about to say that while all Americans go to Westminster Abbey to -see the monuments and other interesting things, all of them do not know -that two of England’s greatest men, their most renowned heroes of modern -times, are buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral—Lord Nelson and the Duke of -Wellington.</p> - -<p>One reason why American and other tourists who visit St. Paul’s seldom -see the tombs of these great men is because they do not know that the -cathedral contains them. The tombs are in the crypt, and unless<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> you -knock on the great iron gates leading to the crypt and pay a sixpence, -you cannot obtain admission.</p> - -<p>But besides the tombs of these two celebrities, a number of other -eminent Englishmen lie buried in the cathedral. Among the monuments -(over their tombs) may be read the names of General Gordon, Admiral -Napier, Sir Christopher Wren, the architect, and the famous artists, Sir -Joshua Reynolds and J. W. M. Turner—in fact, as there is a Poet’s -corner in Westminster Abbey, so there is a Painter’s Corner in St. -Paul’s Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Nelson’s remains are covered by a great sarcophagus of black marble, -which was intended for the tomb of Cardinal Wolsey. The Duke of -Wellington is buried in a sarcophagus of porphyry, of which the upper -part, forming the lid, alone weighs seventeen tons.</p> - -<p>A visit to St. Paul’s discovers many other interesting things, and it is -the opinion of the writer that it is one of the three grandest public -buildings of modern times, the other two being the Capitol in Washington -and the Palais de Justice in Brussels.</p> - -<p>The cathedral itself has an interesting history. The first St. Paul’s -Cathedral was built by Ethelbert of Kent, in the year 610. It is said to -have been destroyed by fire in 961, rebuilt and again destroyed by fire -in 1086, rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by fire in 1666. -The present structure was built by Sir Christopher Wren and took -thirty-five years to complete, being finished in 1710, at a cost of -something like £747,954 sterling—nearly four millions of dollars. It -covers more than two acres of ground. The height from the pavement to -the top of the cross is three hundred and sixty-four feet three inches. -You get a good view of the building from the Thames. The best view of -the building, however, is from the top of an omnibus going east down -Fleet street, but this view is now somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span> marred or obstructed by the -railway arch which crosses Ludgate Circus.</p> - -<p>A few figures about the bell and the clock may not be without interest. -The former, called Great Paul, weighs sixteen tons, fourteen -hundredweight, two quarters, nineteen pounds; height, eight feet ten -inches; diameter at base, nine feet six and a half inches; thickness -where the clapper strikes, eighteen and three-quarter inches. The -clapper is seven feet nine inches long and weighs four hundredweight. -The note is E flat. The clock has two faces, each nearly twenty feet in -diameter. The minute hand is nine feet eight inches long and weighs -seventy-five pounds; the hour hand is five feet nine inches long and -weighs forty-four pounds. The hour figures are two feet, two and a half -inches long. The pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is attached a -weight of one hundred and eight pounds. It beats once in two seconds.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_009.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_009_sml.jpg" width="187" height="184" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_QUEENS_MEWS" id="THE_QUEENS_MEWS"></a>THE QUEEN’S MEWS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Windsor, the royal residence, twenty-five miles from London, attracts of -course many American visitors, its features of interest including, -besides the castle and park, the celebrated stables. But as for stables, -the Queen’s Mews, near the centre of London, offer a much more brilliant -show. Admission is gained with little difficulty or formality—by -Americans. You simply call at the American Legation in Victoria street, -two or three blocks (as we’d say in New York), from the Victoria railway -station—a “penny ’bus” from Charing Cross passes the door. It is not -necessary to ask for Minister Lincoln; your card sent to Mr. White, the -secretary of the legation, or, in his absence, to Mr. McCormick, the -courteous assistant secretary, will secure you in return the necessary -pasteboard for yourself and party to visit the Queen’s Mews in -Buckingham Palace road—a very short walk from the legation and a -stone’s throw, so to speak, from Victoria station.</p> - -<p>The stables cover a few acres of ground. They contain the royal harness, -the carriage of state and other carriages, and have stalls for about one -hundred horses, in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men -are employed, those longest in the service being privileged to live on -the premises. There is nothing very remarkable about the horses’ -quarters; the stalls are not more luxurious nor are they kept in better -condition than many private gentlemen’s stables in New York and Newport, -nor are the horses particularly worthy of note, excepting the ten large -black stallions and eight cream-colored stallions, used in drawing the -state carriage<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> on state occasions, as, for instance, when the Queen -opens parliament. The tails of these stallions, the blacks and -cream-colored, all reach to and almost sweep the ground, with the -exception of one big black animal, whose brevity of appendage is made up -on state occasions by the addition of a false tail.</p> - -<p>The harness for ordinary use is of black leather with elaborate bright -brass trimmings, that for state occasions is also of black leather, the -crowns and coats-of-arms, in solid metal, being heavily and richly -gilded. The harness is kept in perfect condition, and kept on show, -protected by glass doors and windows. You may see and admire the royal -reins, but they are not to be handled by common fingers.</p> - -<p>Among the carriages there is one kept for its past history and glory, -not for present use—a gaudy, gilded, theatrical-looking vehicle, the -weight of which is four tons, the great, heavily-tired wheels of which -measure six feet in diameter, the whole being of the respectable age of -one hundred and thirty years. The most beautiful feature of this curious -relic of by-gone days is the eight pictures set in as many panels, -painted by Cipriani, an Italian artist famous in his day.</p> - -<p>But the carriages for Her Majesty’s ordinary use and the carriage which -is reserved for state occasions, which is drawn by the eight cream -horses, are models of comfort, luxury and beauty. They are upholstered -with dark blue cloth, the only interior ornaments being of worsted -fringe matching the cloth in color. The wheels and body are dark blue, -the panels being painted in a lighter shade, the centre of each door -panel relieved by the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors, but -not larger in size than a silver dollar. The carriages are hung on C -springs and yield from any point to the slightest touch.</p> - -<p>I ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge that when Her -Majesty places her foot on the step her<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> weight must make quite a -depression of the springs. “Does it,” said the royal flunky; “you should -stand ’ere when the Duchess of Teck gets in. The Queen’s cousin is a -werry heavy woman, God bless her. If you was to see her get in you -<i>would</i> see a depression, or whatever you call it.”</p> - -<p>You will make a mistake if on leaving the Mews you do not drop a -shilling into the ready palm of both coachman and footman.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_010.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_010_sml.jpg" width="312" height="257" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="A_QUESTION_OF_HATS" id="A_QUESTION_OF_HATS"></a>A QUESTION OF HATS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Americans treat women better both at home and abroad than they are -treated elsewhere, and they certainly show the sex more deference and -respect in public and private than women are accustomed to receive in -many older countries.</p> - -<p>An American seldom addresses one of the gentler sex with his head -covered, unless it is in the open air; and while this is also the custom -in some European countries—in France and Switzerland, for instance—it -is not nearly so common in Germany or Great Britain.</p> - -<p>Englishmen with whom I have talked do not seem to notice such things, -but I know from long and careful observation, that men in London sit -with their heads covered during the whole of a theatrical performance. -They occupy seats in “the pit,” to be sure, but “the pit” in London is -compared by some with the back rows of the parquette in American -theatres.</p> - -<p>Should this meet the eye of a barrister, he might charge me with being -too general in my remarks. If he demands, in his “answer” to this -“complaint,” a “bill of particulars,” I will mention, among places where -I saw men sit covered during the whole evening, the Savoy Theatre, when -“The Gondoliers” was played, and the Shaftesbury Theatre, where Willard -performed in “Judah” in September, 1890.</p> - -<p>At a Covent Garden concert in the same year, I saw four or five hundred -persons on the floor (men and women) and not more than six men carried -their hats in their hands. I remember remarking at the time that -one-third of the number of hats were of silk plush<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> (“top hats”), -one-third were derbys of a brownish hue, the other third were mixed—all -sorts.</p> - -<p>Even in the dress circle at a Covent Garden concert some men wear their -hats the whole evening—white hats, derbys, and heavy silk hats—and -this in warm weather, too. It no doubt is the custom; at any rate such -was the case on a certain “American night” (summer of 1890) when -American airs were played, Mrs. Alice Shaw, the beautiful whistler, -being the special attraction among the solo performers.</p> - -<p>And when men at London theatres do remove their hats, they seem to do it -reluctantly. They will enter a theatre and enter a box, remove their -overcoat and gloves, take out opera glass, and spread the play bill -before them, and then, as a last thought, if they think about it at all, -the hat will be slowly removed; they seem to be unwilling to part with -it. How different in American theatres, where every man quickly doffs -his hat the moment he enters the door of the auditorium. It is all the -more noticeable in London theatres because the women are obliged to -remove their hats before entering, and excepting at the Lyceum, the -Savoy, and possibly one or two other houses, they are obliged to pay for -their care.</p> - -<p>At third and second-class London restaurants, men wear their hats as do -people of the same class elsewhere, but some men in England not only -carry their hats into the dining-room of a first-class hotel, but carry -them on their heads until they take their seats; the presence of women -makes no difference.</p> - -<p>The editor of the New York <i>Press</i> says: “There is no surer test of a -nation’s sense of courtesy than its treatment of women. Judged by this -standard, the people of the United States stand above those of any other -nation on the face of the globe.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LONDON_ODDITIES" id="LONDON_ODDITIES"></a>LONDON ODDITIES.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>It serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of the postal -authorities to add the postal district initials in addressing letters to -London—as for instance, C., indicating central, or S. W., Southwest. -There are eight of these districts, and the necessity for adding the -initials will be seen when one learns that in London there are no less -than thirty-five King streets, thirty Queen streets, eighteen York -streets, a Victoria Park in the extreme east, one Queen Victoria street, -a Victoria railway station in the Southwestern district, a Hotel -Victoria in the western central and a Victoria Hotel in quite another -district.</p> - -<p>The postal system in London is as near perfection as it is possible to -make it. Few letters go astray, and the delivery is prompt, there being -from six to twelve deliveries daily; but by neglecting to add the -initial letter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours. -There are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in London, but in -addressing letters take care and take into consideration that there are -nearly six millions of people in London, that the streets and squares -cover eight thousand acres, and within a radius of fifteen miles of -Charing Cross seven hundred square miles are covered. Correspondence -between England and the United States also shows wonderful increase. Ten -years ago the number of letters which annually passed between the two -countries was eight millions; at present the number is twenty-four -millions. Reduction of postage rates has of course had something to do -with this great increase and it will bear further reduction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span></p> - -<p>I happened to be near Euston station and wanted to go to my hotel in -Northumberland avenue. I stepped into a hansom, and not wishing to be -taken for a stranger I simply said “Victoria Hotel.” In five minutes Mr. -Cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin palace, bearing the -sign plain enough, “Victoria Hotel.” “I want the hotel in Northumberland -avenue,” I said to the driver. “Then why didn’t you say Hotel Victoria,” -was the sharp response, and cabbie charged me a fare and a half to -emphasize the distinction.</p> - -<p>The growth of London is something marvelous. More than ten thousand -houses annually, or, it may be roughly stated, one thousand houses every -month, are added to London. In August of 1889, 754,464 houses were -supplied with water by the water companies, or 11,113 below the number -in the same month of 1890. In September, 1890, the companies had to -supply 10,976 houses more than in September of 1889. In August of that -year 765,577 houses were supplied with water, and in September, 1891, -that number had increased to 766,797.</p> - -<p>The London police are a pleasant, polite set of men, and if they do not -refuse the price of a pint of beer for a slight service, neither will -they refuse to answer any question, respectfully and satisfactorily. The -contrast is very striking between these good-tempered, obliging -officers, and the sullen, saucy, sour-visaged, tobacco-chewing New York -policeman who is just as ready to answer with his club, which he carries -exposed, as he is with his uncivil tongue. London policemen are paid -from six to seven and a half dollars per week: New York policemen from -sixteen to twenty-four dollars weekly. A London police sergeant gets -only ten dollars a week.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sixpence for a Play Bill.</span>—At the Prince of Wales Theatre and at the -Shaftesbury you are charged sixpence for a bill of the play, and at the -majority of London<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span> theatres you pay for a programme. The exceptions are -Irving’s Lyceum and D’Oyly Carte’s Savoy, where no employee is allowed -to accept a fee of any kind—not if the manager knows it. That does not -say, however, that a “tip” for a programme is unexpected, even at the -two houses named.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Civility and Servility.</span>—There’s a difference between civility and -servility. You are pleased to have an omnibus conductor audibly “thank -you” when you hand him your fare, but in the London shops a saleswoman -will do the same thing even when you make no purchase. At the pleasant -Nayland Rock Hotel in Margate, on the south coast of England, a waiter -will thank you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you, or when -he hands you a glass of water—if you can get such a thing as water at -your meals in an English hotel. It is not obtainable without a little -trouble; everybody drinks wine.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Soot, Soot, Everywhere.</span>—Owing to the use of soft coal in London, white -buildings are soon changed into black ones, partially. This change, -especially where one side of a set of Corinthian columns, for instance, -remains the original color, and the other side has gradually turned very -dark, gives some of the churches and public buildings a picturesque and -pleasing appearance. Yellow brick is very largely used, but it soon -changes color. If you place a tumbler of water outside your window at -night with the idea of keeping it cool, for you rarely see a piece of -ice, you will find a number of tiny globules of soot floating on the -surface of the water in the morning. And it is exceedingly difficult in -London to make weather prognostications, the sun being usually hidden or -half-hidden by London smoke, if not by fog.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Exchanging Compliments.</span>—Englishmen say “as drunk as a Scotchman,” and -Scotchmen have a saying “as durr as an Englishman.” “Durr” implies -something<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> more than quiet: it means surly, sullen. It cannot be denied -that English tourists are unusually quiet: they seldom speak without -having been formally introduced. That reminds me that two or three years -ago I was traveling on the Midland road from London to Liverpool, and I -happened to make some casual remark to a fellow traveler who was a -stranger to me. The gentleman replied very briefly but courteously, and -then added: “Beg pardon, you hail from the other side, do you not?” -“Yes, but why do you ask?” “If I didn’t detect it in your accent,” said -my neighbor, “I should know it because you addressed me. I have been -traveling between London and Liverpool now for many years, and I am -never spoken to but by an American, and I rather like it.”</p> - -<p>There are no “cross-walks,” as we call them, in the cities of Great -Britain; none are needed. Nor does anybody cross the street at right -angles, as we do in New York. Everybody crosses diagonally, from corner -to corner, or crosses in the middle of the block. The road-ways are so -smooth and well paved that all parts are alike, and it is never -necessary to pick your way. In New York, besides exercising great -vigilance to prevent being knocked down and run over by vehicles, you -must always keep one eye on the ground while crossing. You may be upset -by a car track, or you may step between two stone blocks that are a foot -apart, more or less.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">As to Oysters.</span>—English oysters still retain their flavor, a great deal -of flavor; in fact they have entirely too much—that is to say, too much -for anybody whose palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste. You -can get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen, but choice “Whitstables,” -that have a strong, coppery flavor, come as high as four shillings a -dozen. For the uneducated American palate, Chesapeake oysters, or the -Great South Bay blue points are good enough.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Servants’ Wages.</span>—Servant girls’ wages in England are not nearly so high -as they are in the United States. Even hotel chambermaids, who are paid -better than family servants, only receive fourteen pounds sterling a -year—about ninety dollars, but each one is allowed a fortnight’s -holiday (with pay) at the end of the summer. And the “tips” they receive -from the guests are well worth consideration.</p> - -<p>There are differences between the habits of London and New York women -and here is one of the minor points: New York women go “shopping,” that -is to say they go into one store after another to examine the goods, as -a diversion or pastime; English women never enter a shop without the -intention to purchase; they make a business and not a pastime of -replenishing their wardrobe. To go on a shopping tour American women -often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry; English women on the contrary, -dress very plainly when engaged in their business of purchasing. They -reserve their fine clothes for the opera or for receptions, wearing no -extra finery even for ordinary visiting. They are not seen parading the -streets in silks and satins, and that is why some American writers who -do not observe closely say that “English women in the street dress in -dowdy style.”</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">No “Foreladies” in London.</span>—At the great dry-goods house and outfitting -establishment of Debenham & Freebody, in Wigmore street, not far from -the Langham Hotel, all the saleswomen are expected, nay, are obliged to -dress in black. They number two hundred, but not a “saleslady” nor a -“forelady” among them. They make derision of these terms, which are so -commonly heard in New York. The firm also employs six or seven hundred -young men. All the unmarried employees live on the premises, and this -plan is found to operate satisfactorily to all concerned. The young men -wear black coat, waistcoat and necktie. Many years ago salesmen in -London dry-goods houses were not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> allowed to wear a moustache, but there -is more liberty now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates.</p> - -<p>You don’t hear the words, corsets, dresses nor pounds, in London shops -of the first class, such as Kate Reily’s, Debenham & Freebody’s or -Redfern’s. They have gone back to the old-fashioned term—stays, gowns -and guineas. English merchants favor the last term because a guinea is -worth a shilling more than a pound.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Customs in Art Galleries Abroad and at Home.</span>—The English National -Gallery, in Trafalgar square, London, like our Metropolitan Museum of -Art and like nearly all galleries in different parts of the world, is -only open free on certain days of the week, while the great French -collection at the Louvre, in Paris (probably the largest and most -valuable collection of pictures under one roof) is always free, and may -be visited without application to any circumlocution office. The Louvre -is open six days of every week in the year; only on Mondays are the -public not admitted, the officers reserving Monday for repairs and -cleaning. In nearly all of the public galleries of Europe, as in the -Corcoran gallery in Washington, you are obliged to leave your umbrella -or walking stick in charge of an official at the door and for the care -of such an article a fee is charged in some places; at the Louvre you -may carry into the galleries as many umbrellas and bundles as you -please. This is not always an advantage: for my part I am only too glad -to be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such occasions. It seems -strange that men while viewing pictures in the foreign galleries should -persist in wearing their hats—it seems strange to a New Yorker; the -custom being so different at our Academy of Design.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="POVERTY_AND_CHARITY_IN_ENGLAND" id="POVERTY_AND_CHARITY_IN_ENGLAND"></a>POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The drinking habit among men and among women and girls still remains the -curse of Great Britain, and its companion, poverty, is everywhere. But -if the poverty is striking and awful to behold, its next-door neighbor, -charity, God be praised, aims to keep pace with it. Hospitals and other -philanthropic institutions supported by voluntary contributions, are to -be seen almost wherever the eye turns in the United Kingdom.</p> - -<p>The patriotic and other public funds, to meet special emergencies at -home and abroad, may well challenge the world’s admiration, not only for -the princely amounts subscribed, but also for the hearty and expeditious -way in which the funds are raised. The charitable institutions of the -city of London number upwards of one thousand, and simply of asylums for -the aged (colleges, hospitals and almshouses), there are one hundred and -twenty distinct institutions.</p> - -<p>But to return to the drinking habit, which presents itself before you -constantly: I was riding up to London from Margate with a hotel-keeper, -at whose house, on the edge of the surf, I had been staying for a week, -and I remarked that the drinking water at Margate was of good quality. -“Is it?” said Mr. Knaggs, for this is the name of the agreeable -gentleman who presided for three years over the destinies of the Nayland -Rock Hotel. “Is it?” said mine host. “Well, you know more about it than -I do, for I’ve never tasted it.”</p> - -<p>On Sunday, while at dinner at Philp’s Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh, just -before dessert was served, a small box was passed around the table by a -waiter and into it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> people were dropping sixpences, shillings and pieces -of higher denomination. At once it occurred to me, here’s another -overcharge or extra I had not counted on, and I began inwardly to rebel. -“What’s this for?” I blurted out in a rather injured tone. “Collection -for the Orphan School, sir,” and I gladly added my mite. Afterwards I -saw money boxes in hotels and restaurants in other parts of Scotland and -in England labelled, for example, “For Charing Cross Hospital; funds -urgently needed,” etc. Little boys and young women go about the busy and -better parts of London on Sundays with boxes in their hands, begging you -to “drop a penny in” for this charity or that—and you find it very -hard, indeed, in London to keep any coppers in your pocket, so strong -are the appeals. On hospital days the number of hospital boxes is -largely increased temporarily. At this time sheets are spread in -churchyards, into which people throw their spare change liberally.</p> - -<p>“The People’s Palace,” which was opened by the Queen in jubilee year, is -a noble illustration of the charitable English heart. The “People’s -Palace” is situated in one of the poorer quarters of London, and, as -everybody knows, is the realization of an ideal conception of Walter -Besant in his novel, “All Sorts and Conditions of Men.” The palace -includes a well-stocked library; a reading-room, supplied with papers -from all parts of the world; a large swimming bath and a hall for -musical and literary entertainments. In the basement of one of the main -buildings boys are taught trades by which they may earn their living. -That the recipients of all this good may not feel that they are objects -of cold charity, a slight charge per month is made for those who use the -reading-room, library, swimming bath, etc., and there is a nominal -charge, about four cents each person, for admission to the concerts and -lectures, which are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of -celebrity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span></p> - -<p>I visited that part of the Whitechapel neighborhood which “Jack the -Ripper” made infamous as the scene of his murders. It was a vile place -three years ago, but the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand. -The Baroness Rothschild opened wide her heart and purse and erected -here, for the poor of this unfortunate quarter, blocks of modern model -tenements. These she lets at very low rents, asking only three per cent. -return for her investment. In connection with the tenements the noble -woman has built a well-appointed “Club and Library,” with billiard-room, -etc., for the amusement of her tenants. These premises are in charge of -a custodian and his wife, who are paid for their services by the -Baroness; and for the use of the “Club and Library” a merely nominal -charge is made to any of the tenants who avail themselves of the -privilege. It is not sectarian. In England they believe in “Faith, Hope -and Charity,” and of these three that “the greatest is Charity.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_011.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_011_sml.jpg" width="170" height="116" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="WHERE_IS_CHARING_CROSS" id="WHERE_IS_CHARING_CROSS"></a>WHERE IS CHARING CROSS?</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>You hear a great deal about Charing Cross in London, but you may look in -vain for a street sign bearing that name. Very few people in London know -exactly where it is, nor does even the policeman on the “beat” know. -Strange to say, neither the Charing Cross Hospital, the Charing Cross -Station, nor the Charing Cross Hotel is in Charing Cross. Much as it is -talked about, it is a very short street, extending easterly only from -Cockspur street, then southerly, past the equestrian statue of Charles -I. to Scotland Yard or Whitehall. Low’s Exchange is in Charing Cross, -and within two or three hundred feet of that spot (No. 57), is the very -centre of the city of London. From this spot cab fares are reckoned. -Start from here and you can ride anywhere, within a radius of two miles, -for one shilling. Low’s Exchange, by the way, is a very popular -rendezvous in London for Americans. It is where they “most congregate,” -and it offers many conveniences for travellers.</p> - -<p>If you are traveling on the other side make this your headquarters. -Telegrams, letters, and even printed matter are forwarded to you with -the utmost promptness. A special work of the house is the securing of -state rooms on board steamers. It saves you much worry and bother, and -the service of this agency costs you nothing, Mr. Low getting his pay -from the steamship companies. Edwin H. Low served his apprenticeship, as -it were, to this business, in the office of the National Steamship -Company in New York, many years ago, and since then he has had large -experience. The headquarters of the concern are at 947 Broadway, and Mr. -Low may be seen sometimes at his New York house, at other times in -London, but there is a very capable man who acts as general manager for -Mr. Low in Charing Cross—Mr. George Glanvill, who served Mr. Gillig for -many years at the American Exchange, 449 Strand. By all means register -at Low’s.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="MARGATE" id="MARGATE"></a>MARGATE,<br /><br /> -<small>AN ENGLISH WATERING PLACE.</small></h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>I was ill in London, at the Windsor Hotel in the summer of 1890, and as -my friend Dr. Walter M. Fleming of New York happened to be in London at -the time, at the Savoy Hotel, I sent for him. The fact is that I had -been receiving too much “attention” from my friends—dinners, drives, -concerts, theatres, suppers, etc., all of which resulted in physical and -nervous exhaustion.</p> - -<p>Dr. Fleming’s prescription was simple—“rest and a change of air,” but -as this was Dr. Fleming’s first visit to England, I began to question my -friends and others as to the best pharmacy at which to have the -prescription filled. The proprietor of the Windsor Hotel, Mr. J. R. -Cleave, said “Margate;” so, too, said the intelligent manager of the -house, Mr. Mann. An old and trusted friend wrote me, “Don’t go to -Margate, go to Brighton or to Hastings.” Thus opinions differed. I knew -all about Brighton and wanted to see a place new to me. I was much -inclined to go to Hastings, but a consensus of opinion prevailed in -favor of Margate.</p> - -<p>“There’s a beautiful air at Margate,” is the response of everyone in -England to whom you speak of that place, from the boys at Low’s exchange -in Charing Cross to Mr. Richard Whiteing, editor of the London Daily -News. This remark was also made to me by Major Arthur Griffiths, an -English author and <i>litterateur</i>, who is known and esteemed on both -sides of the Atlantic. So to Margate I went.</p> - -<p>Margate is on the south coast of England, seventy-five miles from -London, whence it is reached by the London,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> Chatham and Dover Railway. -This is the road celebrated for the beautiful rural scenery that borders -it; it passes through the prettiest parts of Kent, “the garden of -England,” through Rochester and Canterbury, famous for their cathedrals, -and other places of historic and scenic interest. You may also reach -Margate by steamer from London Bridge. It is a pleasant sail on the -Thames of ninety-three miles.</p> - -<p>Having arrived at Margate, you can make it the starting point for many a -delightful excursion. Boulogne on the French coast, for instance, across -the channel, is directly opposite Margate; steamer fare round trip, six -shillings—a dollar and a half.</p> - -<p>Other pleasant excursions are made to Canterbury and to Ramsgate. To -these places run “pleasure vans” accommodating twenty persons and the -fare ranges from threepence to a shilling, according to the style of -vehicle. If you do not care to patronize the pleasure vans, you may hire -a victoria at two shillings per hour. Canterbury is the site of the -famous cathedral. At Ramsgate lived the Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses -Montefiore, for nearly the length of his long and useful life—one -hundred years.</p> - -<p>Another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned village of -Broadstairs, for many years the home of Charles Dickens. The house -Dickens occupied and which he called “Bleak House,” still stands on its -commanding site at the top of the cliffs directly overlooking the sea. A -description of Bleak House, with illustration, appeared in the Home -Journal in January, 1891, and has been widely copied in this country as -well as in England. Broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from Margate, -fare by victoria four shillings.</p> - -<p>Few Americans who cross the ocean go to Margate, but they may spend a -couple of days or a couple of weeks there with advantage. Margate is a -town with a history. Its foremost historical feature is the Church of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span> -St. John, built in 1050. It has seen the rise of Norman, Plantagenet and -Tudor dynasties and still stands, the oldest of England’s possessions. -In the time of Queen Anne, according to the chronicler, to be buried in -a sheet cost sixpence, and a shilling was the extravagant price of a -coffin, but the honor of being buried from St. John’s Church cost two -shillings more! Marriage banns were to be had at St. John’s for -three-and-six.</p> - -<p>Modern Margate is one of England’s most popular watering-places. There -are many pleasant walks and some fine buildings. One of the pleasure -resorts is the ocean pier. Here, three times a week, a large band of -picked musicians perform a good programme giving a promenade concert -directly over the breakers.</p> - -<p>It is the boast of the Britisher that his government is “parental;” it -not only assumes to take charge of the individual, but it does in many -particulars compel him to take care of himself. If, for instance, you -are caught boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined “forty -shillings” (ten dollars)—a favorite sum for a fine, by the way, is that -same forty shillings.</p> - -<p>The pier at Margate would seem to be an exception to the rule of safety; -it cannot be called absolutely safe at night. The boat landing below is -reached by several flights of wide stairs, and the lowest flight is open -and unguarded, not only in daytime but also at night. In addition to -this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at all, and it would be -the easiest thing in the world on a dark night to walk off by accident -into the water. Why more accidents and loss of life do not occur is -surprising. Twopence admits you to the pier, and it is a popular -democratic resort.</p> - -<p>At night the scene near the pier is a lively one. Street restaurateurs, -their barrows ablaze with flambeaux, line the highway and drive quite a -business selling plates of oysters, mussels, cockles and snails, which -are more or less tempting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_012.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_012_sml.jpg" width="439" height="264" alt="MARGATE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MARGATE.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span></p> - -<p>If you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to Margate. There is no -high-rolling surf, but if you are a swimmer you will be all the better -pleased. There are no ropes to lay hold of, none are necessary; you -bathe in perfect safety and comfort, and, as at all English resorts, you -bathe from a “machine.”</p> - -<p>In America bathing facilities consist of long rows of commodious wooden -boxes placed on the beach at some distance from the surf. You purchase a -bathing ticket for twenty-five or fifty cents, the price depending on -whether you prefer a woolen to a cotton costume. You receive the suit -and the key of your box. Then you put your valuables in an envelope -sealed by yourself and hand them to the custodian, who places them in a -separate box in an enormous safe, returning you a check tied to a rubber -band, which latter you pass over your head and wear while bathing. You -proceed to your “house,” as we call it, disrobe and don your scant suit, -lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of the water, where, as -fancy dictates, you loll around on the beach, talking to your friends, -or you plunge immediately into the breakers only to come out, dry -yourself in the sun, cut up capers on the sand, chat or smoke, repeating -the process <i>ad libitum</i>. Of course men and women bathe together.</p> - -<p>Not so in England. There you bathe from “machines,” small wooden houses, -five feet square by ten feet high, mounted on four wheels. They have -entrances back and front, each approached by a low flight of steps. You -enter by one door in street costume, and having disrobed and donned your -bathing garments, you give the signal, a horse is attached to the -“machine” which is drawn a short distance into the water. You step down -and out, disport yourself in the water as long as you please and reënter -your box, to emerge therefrom once more in everyday habiliments. No -lolling about the beach, no unseemly display of person; all is -conducted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> in a proper, staid and exemplary manner—on the beach.</p> - -<p>And in sooth, why should you walk around and smoke and chat with your -friends on this occasion, in a costume, or lack of costume, which if -worn at other times or places would land you in jail for exposure of -person? This with reference to the American custom or costume.</p> - -<p>In England it is worse in some respects, for while the women dress as -they do here, the men bathe in a nude state, so to speak. They wear -small trunks or loin cloths only, and men and women bathe together -indiscriminately. Notices are posted in prominent places near the beach, -boldly printed and bearing the English coat of arms, to the effect that -in the water men and women must remain separate, and further that you -will be fined forty shillings (of course forty shillings) if you are -found nearer to a female than one hundred yards; but it is a dead letter -law, and is entirely disregarded. I am not the most prudish man in the -world, but I confess to having been shocked. Trunks did not suit me; I -preferred and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon special -application.</p> - -<p>The beach is hard and smooth, broad and gently sloping. The bluff at -Long Branch is not to be mentioned, scarcely, with the bold, beautiful -white chalk cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach -at Margate to a height of seventy-five feet. Along this bluff are miles -of grassy, serpentine walks, gardens prettily laid out, dotted with -summer houses and bounded by hedges and clover fields—a beautiful, -natural landscape, artificially enhanced.</p> - -<p>The favorite bathing place on the beach is managed by Charlotte Pettman. -It is reached by a “coast guard” cutting in the cliff, an inclined -passageway sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge. It is a -sort of artificial cañon. Bathers are charged sixpence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> each, “six baths -for two-and-six, twelve for four-and-six.”</p> - -<p>Mrs. Pettman advertises her baths by a circular which contains the -following touching verse, no doubt assisting trade materially.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“I pitied the dove, for my bosom was tender,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">I pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">But I ne’er shall forget the superlative splendor<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of Charlotte’s sea baths, the pride of mankind.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In his early days of struggle the great Charles Dickens, for a few -shillings, penned these lines as a “puff” of Day & Martin’s blacking.</p> - -<p>So far as the waves are concerned, the cliff is as solid as it appears -to be, but it has yielded to the hand of man, and at Charlotte Pettman’s -baths there is a statue sculptured in the cliff, entitled “My first -plunge.” It is the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in -bathing costume, just about to take “a header” from the platform. It is -by Priestman, an English artist. The door is opened to art lovers for -twopence each, or as much more as the generously disposed may be -inclined to give, the proceeds being handed over to a local hospital.</p> - -<p>One of Margate’s architectural features, as seen in the accompanying -illustration, is its handsome clocktower, standing in a conspicuous -position on the Marine drive. It was erected in honor of the Queen’s -Jubilee in 1887, and has a musical chime of bells.</p> - -<p>Like Brighton and some other seaside resorts, Margate is democratic in -the height of summer, but select in the autumn. In olden times the -season commenced in June and continued until October. Margate offers -every inducement to a prolonged season. While London is miserable under -November fogs and humid atmosphere, Margate is brilliant with glorious -days and bright skies; fine weather from August until Christmas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span></p> - -<p>Americans, of course, must flock to the largest hotel. They like size, -and many of them patronize the Cliftonville Hotel, which, to be sure, is -a large establishment in the most fashionable, and certainly the most -attractive part of the town, near the grand cliffs, and overlooking the -sea—a splendid site and a beautiful house exteriorly, but not as well -kept as an American host might care for it.</p> - -<p>The White Hart Hotel, on the principal street, is a commercial house, -and has a comfortable appearance from the outside, but the Nayland Rock -Hotel, not far from the two railway stations, yet overlooking the sea, -and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit into the water -(provided you have the biscuit), is to my knowledge a well-appointed -hotel, with bedrooms as clean and comfortable and dining-room as -cheerful as any hotel in the world. The cuisine is of the best. If great -variety be absent, quality is present. The food is choice, and served in -a neat, tempting and scrupulously clean manner.</p> - -<p>European hotels, as a rule, are kept on the European plan; at the -Nayland Rock you have your choice. If you choose the American plan, the -terms are very low for the accommodation afforded. Two dollars and a -half a day secures you pleasant room, three good meals, lights and -service. There are no extras. The wines are of first quality.</p> - -<p>But I almost forgot an important item. I went to Margate for health and -rest; I found both there. After one week I returned to London “like a -lion refreshed,” and I shall always say, as everybody in London says, -“there’s a beautiful air at Margate.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="TWO_BRIGHTON_HOTELS" id="TWO_BRIGHTON_HOTELS"></a>TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The company that owns the Grand Hotel and the Métropole in London, -opened in March, 1890, a magnificent house at Brighton, on the English -southern sea coast. “Magnificent” is the word. It is built of stone; it -faces the sea; it has an acre or two at the back laid out in gardens, -tennis courts, and pretty walks, after the style of the United States -Hotel at Saratoga; there is a separate building on the grounds for a -ball-room, in this respect resembling the Grand Union Hotel at the same -American spa; the elegant drawing-room on the ground floor looks on the -King’s Road and the ocean; the library, which faces the garden, contains -a large and choice selection of books by leading authors, and in the -basement there are Turkish and Russian baths fitted up with a luxury and -perfection of appointment not equalled in any other hotel. The -proprietors have availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the -construction and furnishing of hotels, and nothing that money can -supply, or good taste can suggest, has been left undone to make the -Métropole at Brighton what it is—one of the most beautiful and -luxurious hotels in the world. It is said to accommodate six or seven -hundred guests.</p> - -<p>Besides this hotel, and the Grand and Métropole hotels in London, the -same company owns another hotel in London, “The First Avenue,” in -Holborn; also the Burlington at Eastbourne; the Royal Pier Hotel at -Ryde, Isle of Wight; the Métropole at Monte Carlo; and the Métropole at -Cannes—all of them luxurious establishments.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span></p> - -<p>Brighton attracts visitors the year round; in fact it is a city of no -mean size, having a permanent population numbering an eighth of a -million. It enjoys two seasons—one for the <i>hoi polloi</i>, which begins -in June and lasts three months, and another for the fashionable world, -which begins in September and continues till near Christmas. During the -second season the prices at Brighton are greatly increased.</p> - -<p>I entered one of the leading hotels one day about lunch time, and as is -my custom before engaging rooms or partaking of a meal at an English -hotel, I asked: “What is the charge for a <i>table d’hôte</i> lunch here?” -“Two-and-six,” replied the porter. As for seeing the lessee or manager -of an English hotel, you can almost as easily secure an audience with -the czar of all the Russias.</p> - -<p>But to return to my muttons—or to the lunch, which, truth to tell, was -good in quality and nicely served. My daughter heard the following -conversation between the head waiter and the said porter as we were -passing in to the “coffee-room.” Quoth the former:—“How much did you -tell these people for lunch?” “Two-and-six,” replied that blue-coated, -gold-embroidered official. “That’s wrong,” remarked the head waiter, who -almost lost his head as well as his temper. “Three shillings is the -price to strangers,” and three shillings each we had to pay.</p> - -<p>This reminds me of the old story of the Englishman who was heard to -remark about a man passing, who had a foreign look: “<span class="lftspc">’</span>Ere’s a stranger, -Bill, ’eave ’arf a brick at ’im.”</p> - -<p>That they call these apartments in English hotels “Coffee Rooms,” when -they never serve in them a cup of coffee after dinner without a separate -and extra charge, is rather exasperating.</p> - -<p>The porters and officials at some English hotels are not, though it -appears as if they were, in league with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span> the cabmen. If you ask them -about rates just before taking a drive they will occasionally mislead -you and name a higher rate than the usual or legal one. For instance, I -asked the clerk at another hotel in Brighton, what was the fare by the -hour for a drive in an open cab or victoria holding two persons. “Four -shillings per hour,” quickly responded my misinformant. I knew better, -for this was not my first visit to Brighton, but said nothing. To a -cabman with a good-looking victoria who stood immediately opposite the -hotel entrance I popped this question: “What will you charge us for an -hour’s drive along the beach and about the town?” “Two-and-six,” briskly -replied cabbie and we drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for -the half crown.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_013.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_013_sml.jpg" width="127" height="208" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="A_VISIT_TO_BLEAK_HOUSE" id="A_VISIT_TO_BLEAK_HOUSE"></a>A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Bleak House, the scene of the novel of that name, is near the village of -St. Albans, about twenty miles from London, and is described in the -early part of the story as an “old-fashioned house with three peaks in -the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the porch.” That there -was more than one Bleak House in the mind of Dickens “there can be no -possible probable manner of doubt,” as Gilbert sings in “The -Gondoliers,” because at the close of the story one of the characters in -it is made to say, “Both houses are your home, my dear, but the older -Bleak House claims priority.”</p> - -<p>But the “Bleak House” which was for many years the home of Charles -Dickens, and where he wrote many of his novels, was so named by the -author after his famous story. It is located in the old-fashioned -village of Broadstairs, on the North Sea, in the county of Kent, the -garden of England, and is seventy-two miles from London, on the London, -Chatham and Dover Railway. The population is given in the latest census -as two thousand two hundred and sixty-three.</p> - -<p>The house was formerly called Fort House, from its proximity to the -British fortifications on the coast. It stands directly on the top of -the chalk cliffs, seventy-five feet above the water, quite alone, and so -near to the edge that from the portico a stone might be easily thrown -into the surf—what little surf there is. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_014.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_014_sml.jpg" width="325" height="366" alt="BLEAK HOUSE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BLEAK HOUSE.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">commands a wide view of the ocean. In the southwest it looks toward -Ramsgate, a seaside pleasure resort, distant five miles; in the -northeast toward Kingsgate. The house is appropriately named, for it is -indeed bleak from Christmas until April, when the cold, biting northeast -winds, for which these parts are noted, blow with all their might.</p> - -<p>It was natural for Dickens to select such a spot for a residence. If he -was not actually fond of the sea, he certainly had a great liking for -the sea-coast, with which were associated the earliest memories of his -childhood. It will be remembered that he was born at Portsmouth, a -fortified seaport town, and the principal naval station of Great -Britain, about one hundred miles southwest of London. Dickens lived at -Portsmouth until he arrived at his majority. At Portsmouth he studied -law, but he found Blackstone and Coke rather dry reading, and so went to -London where, as every body knows, he entered upon his literary career -by reporting parliamentary debates for the <i>Morning Chronicle</i>.</p> - -<p>Bleak House is a plain, substantial, compact, three-story structure of -burnt brick. It has grounds of one and a quarter acres in extent, and -the property is what is called in England “freehold;” value, two -thousand seven hundred pounds sterling. A stone wall five feet high, -encloses the house on two sides. One side of the house is a flat, blank -wall, evidently planned so that an extension could be easily made, and -the lower part of the front is protected by plain iron railings. The -entrance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a portico and -doorway supported by Doric columns. Next the doorway, on the first -story, a semi-circular bay window projects, and on the second story are -two deep windows which open upon a pretty ornamental iron balcony, -having a curved, sloping roof. A great deal of ivy softens the bareness -of the architecture.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> It climbs up the walls and around the bay windows.</p> - -<p>Dickens was very partial to the ivy plant, as his lyric, “The Ivy -Green,” testifies. He wrote several lyrics, but “The Ivy Green” which -appeared originally in “Pickwick Papers” is the only one that has become -familiar. It was first published as a song in the United States, and -when a London publisher wished to reproduce it in England, Dickens -refused the privilege except on the condition that the publisher pay ten -guineas to the composer, Henry Russell.</p> - -<p>Dickens was more thoughtful concerning Henry Russell’s rights than this -English composer is of the rights of others. I well remember that my -predecessor on the <i>Home Journal</i>, the much beloved poet, George P. -Morris, had a grudge against Russell, because Russell, in England, -claimed to be the author of the words, “Woodman, Spare that Tree,” as -well as the composer of the music; and it is my humble opinion that the -music in merit is far below Morris’s poetry. The sentiment is beautiful, -the words breathe a true, manly spirit and are full of deep feeling, -while the music is plaintive, weak, childish—namby-pamby expresses it.</p> - -<p>Russell did better with the English poet Mackay’s song, “Cheer, Boys, -Cheer,” making it go with life and spirit, and he set appropriate music -to our own Epes Sargent’s song, “A Life on the Ocean Wave,” in which you -may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship bowling along before -the wind. Henry Russell, who, by the way, is a father of Clark Russell, -the novelist, is still living in London—February, 1892.</p> - -<p>As to the melody, “The Ivy Green,” an astute critic says: “It seems to -me the composer has failed to catch the poet’s meaning. Dickens’s words -are as sombre and tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and -softens the ruggedness of decaying grandeur; while Russell’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> music is -as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak.” The song opens with this -stanza:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">A dainty plant is the ivy green<br /></span> -<span class="i2">That creepeth o’er ruins old,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of rich choice food are his meals, I ween,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In his cell so lone and cold;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The wall must be crumbled, the stones decayed,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To pleasure his dainty whim,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And the mould’ring dust that years have made,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Is a merry meal for him.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Creeping where no life is seen,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">A rare old plant is the ivy green.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The house is about fifty years old, and contains ten rooms. Dickens’s -study was on the second floor, front. It has a southeastern outlook; he -was fond of the rising sun. The furniture and appointments of the room, -which the writer saw in the autumn of 1891, remain as when Dickens left -them—table with telescope, bookcase, plain wooden armchair, etc.—a -very simply furnished study. He did not die at Bleak House, however, but -at a short distance from it, on June 9, 1870, at Gads’ Hill, “Higham by -Rochester, Kent,” as he was in the habit of dating from.</p> - -<p>Dickens, at Bleak House, was a tenant of a Mr. Fosbury, but the house -was sold after Dickens’s death, and is at present owned in Broadstairs -by “W. S. Blackburn, house and estate agent, undertaker, builder and -decorator, and upholsterer and mover of furniture,” by which -man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a very short term to a Mrs. -Whitehead, sister of the vicar of St. Peter’s of Broadstairs, at an -annual rent of six hundred dollars. Mr. Blackburn now offers the -property for sale. It would make a cool and charming summer retreat for -some American prince. Or let some large-hearted and large-pursed man -like George W. Childs buy the precious property and present it to the -village of Broadstairs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_015.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_015_sml.jpg" width="506" height="323" alt="BLEAK HOUSE FROM THE NORTH SEA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BLEAK HOUSE FROM THE NORTH SEA.</span> -</div> - -<h2><a name="TAKIN_NOTES" id="TAKIN_NOTES"></a>TAKIN’ NOTES<br /> -<small>IN EDINBORO’ TOWN.</small></h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Singular that more Americans do not “take in” Scotland when they are -making the grand tour. Its historic interest and its scenic beauty are -great. Glasgow is reached direct from New York by the fine fleet of -Anchor boats, numbered among which are the “Furnessia,” the “Devonia” -and the “City of Rome.” Excepting the last named the Scotch boats are -slow in these days of “racers” and “greyhounds,” but they are very -comfortable vessels, as I know, from experience, and I have crossed in -seven days by the “Rome”—crossed, that is, from Queenstown to New York.</p> - -<p>If you don’t care about bustling, busy Glasgow, with its smoke and its -dirt, bonnie Edinburgh is distant only sixty-five minutes by express -trains of the Caledonian railway, one of the best built and best -equipped roads in Great Britain.</p> - -<p>It hasn’t the commerce of Glasgow, not being a seaport, but it is the -cleanest city I ever visited, and one of the most beautiful. Many -travellers consider London the most interesting city in the world, but -to a casual observer, the four most attractive cities in Europe are -Rome, Paris, Brussels and Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>The whole city is built of granite and freestone. You don’t see a brick -excepting in a very few and very tall factory chimneys. To some eyes -this is monotonous; to mine it is pleasing. It looks, and it is, -substantial, solid and strong.</p> - -<p>Don’t come at any time, not even in August, without winter clothing. The -winds are keen and cutting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> Umbrella and “waterproof” are -indispensable; overshoes, also, if it is your habit to wear them, for -“the rain it raineth every day”—so to speak. This is not the remark of -a hasty tourist. I have been making trips to Scotland for the past -twenty years and I have stayed there for weeks at a time.</p> - -<p>It is cool here and rain is frequent, but everything in this life has -its compensation. This is the twentieth day of August, 1891, and we have -strawberries for breakfast every morning and fresh green peas are in -season. Large, luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a quart. -Edinburgh, remember, is four hundred miles north of London. The twilight -is long and late, I was reading a badly-printed Scotch newspaper this -evening by daylight at half-past eight.</p> - -<p>Labor is cheap here, and yet boys do men’s work, such as driving carts -and sweeping the streets.</p> - -<p>The drives in and about Edinburgh are very attractive, and there are no -better roads anywhere.</p> - -<p>There are tram-cars in the city: fare, inside, two pence; “on top,” one -penny. There are also two lines of cable cars.</p> - -<p>In a “distillery agent’s” window, in Princes street, I saw flasks of -wine marked “two shillings.” I stepped in and bought a flask. “One penny -more,” remarked the salesman. “For what,” said I, inquiringly. “For the -cork.” When I reached my hotel I applied a corkscrew; it wouldn’t budge. -The penny “cork” was a glass stopper with a “worm,” to screw on and off.</p> - -<p>It strikes a stranger as rather odd to see men and boys carry so much on -their heads and to see them balance their loads with such nicety. -Instead of using small, light push carts, or delivering goods in baskets -hanging on the arm, as is done in New York, Edinburgh boys use a tray or -flat board with an edge turned up, in which they carry vegetables, meat, -poultry, fruit, etc. This tray is placed on the head and is scarcely -ever touched<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> by the hand except to load or unload. The head in -Edinburgh is made to do good physical service.</p> - -<p>The house still stands, and is likely to stand for centuries, in which -Walter Scott lived for years, and in which he wrote several of his -novels. It is of granite, with a rounded (swelled) front, three stories -high and about thirty feet wide. You must look it up when you go to -Edinburgh—No. 39 Castle street. It is now used for office purposes, and -is tenanted by doctors, lawyers, civil engineers and the like. In the -transom window, over the door, you will see a small marble bust of the -novelist.</p> - -<p>Princes street, the principal street, is not very long, only about one -mile, but as far as it goes it is not easily surpassed in any city. On -one side are the principal hotels and business blocks, all of granite or -freestone; on the other side are the handsome Princes Gardens with -monuments and the magnificent Art Institute in the foreground, and in -the background such buildings as the Castle, several churches and the -Bank of Scotland.</p> - -<p>The gardens, with their terraces, gravel walks, fountains, rustic seats, -lawns and flower-beds are uncommonly attractive. It would seem that -nowhere are the flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in -the Princes Gardens.</p> - -<p>Blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in George street, not -so crowded a thoroughfare as Princes street, but in which a very select -business is transacted.</p> - -<p>Thomas Nelson & Sons have the largest book publishing establishment in -Scotland—I was going to say in Great Britain. Their business buildings -cover a vast space of ground, and Mr. Nelson’s residence, not far from -Holyrood Palace and Arthur’s Seat, is one of the most attractive private -citizens’ residences in this part of the country. It was only two or -three years ago, so a coachman informed me, that Mr. Nelson gave ten -thousand pounds to restore the front of the castle.</p> - -<p>David Douglas, whose retail house is at No. 9 Castle<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> street, makes a -specialty of publishing and republishing works of American authors, and -finds his profit in it. You may pick up on his counters almost anything -of Longfellow, Holmes, Lowell, Howells, Winter and Aldrich. Winter’s -“Shakespeare in England” and his latest work, “Gray Days and Gold,” were -both published by Douglas, duplicate plates being sent over to Macmillan -of New York.</p> - -<p>Talk of books being expensive in England: these very books by Winter -which Macmillan sells in New York at seventy-five cents each, Douglas -publishes at two shillings; in paper covers for one -shilling—twenty-five cents.</p> - -<p>Douglas’s people tell me that Winter’s books find a ready sale in Great -Britain. The critics and the reading public are delighted with his -sketches of English and Scotch scenery, and especially with his -scholarly and beautiful descriptions of Stratford-on-Avon and -Shakespeare’s country. They think that no author has written with more -reverence and feeling about Shakespeare. They find “his language -poetical and his style artistic, with a Meissonier-like finish.”</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fruits and Flowers.</span>—In Scotland herrings are always sold by pairs, -haddocks by threes. In England and Scotland fruit is sold by the pound, -so are vegetables: and this fair and excellent method proves -satisfactory to buyer and seller. Flowers and fruit are sold in the same -shop: the signs read, “fruiterer and florist.” Flowers are very high in -price. They use growing flowers and living plants in pots very freely to -decorate the dinner table, but this idea, which is pretty enough in its -way, is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms. So many tall plants make -the table look dark and heavy, and the broad leaves prevent you from -seeing your neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of the -table, for in some hotels they still persist in using the old-fashioned -long tables which are neither <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span>home-like nor comfortable. Choice fruit, -being either imported from the warmer climates or grown under glass, is -very expensive in the British kingdom. You pay sixpence or a shilling -for a peach or nectarine; two shillings each for choice varieties. The -largest and handsomest peach ever grown, possibly, or certainly ever -shown, was exhibited last summer in a shop window in Buchanan street, -Glasgow. It weighed eighteen ounces, price three-and-sixpence.</p> - -<p>The capital of Scotland is always spelled Edinburgh, but is always -pronounced Edinboro’.</p> - -<p>In the stamp department of the post-office in Edinburgh there is a -shallow indentation about four inches square in the table, in which a -piece of felt is kept constantly damp. Instead of putting the stamp on -your tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it on the -envelope. Small matter, but very convenient, and shows thoughtfulness on -the part of the authorities.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Street Religion.</span>—There’s a great deal of poverty and drunkenness in -Edinburgh, but there is also a great deal of religion. All the churches -are well attended on Sunday, and there are preaching, praying and -singing in the public streets. Church choirs, men and women, stand and -sing in the public highways. In the lower quarters of the city they -attract people with a harmonium, which is wheeled about from place to -place. Passers-by stop, join in the singing, and in fine weather uncover -their heads. The singers are not paid for their services.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Dogs.</span>—Here’s a hint for the society which Mr. Henry Bergh -founded:—On the sidewalk in front of large shops and public buildings -in Glasgow and Edinburgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels -filled with water for passing dogs. The vessel is simply and legibly -marked “<span class="smcap">Dog</span>.” Probably the dogs cannot read, but they seem to know or to -“nose out” the shops where such a humane practice is carried out. But a -certain Scotch editor contends that Scotch dogs can read.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">India Rubber Pavement.</span>—The attention of every stranger who walks in -Princes street, Edinburgh, is immediately arrested as soon as he gets in -front of a certain shop, nearly opposite the castle, where rubber goods -are sold. His attention is arrested because he finds himself on a -yielding pavement. It is a rubber “sidewalk” (as we say in New York), -and was laid there by the enterprising shopkeeper. It is very pleasant -and comfortable to walk on, and so durable that the authorities have -talked about putting down rubber pavements on both sides of Princes -street.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Glasgow University.</span>—There is not much for the tourist to see in Glasgow -except the university, the cathedral, founded in the fourteenth century, -and the municipal buildings. But the first-named is worth walking many -miles to visit, if one is interested in such things. I spent several -hours in the university with pleasure and profit. This university, -Glasgow people claim, is the finest in Scotland. It accommodates -twenty-three hundred students, who pay on an average of forty pounds a -year. It is generously endowed. The buildings are of granite and present -a noble appearance, standing on very high ground in their own large -park, which is beautifully laid out with terraces, flower beds and -gravel walks. There are some grand old trees in the park, and a pretty -winding lake, over which are thrown many picturesque bridges. Though it -is a seat of learning, you will not expect the services of a college -professor as a cicerone, but you might naturally expect to hear fair -English spoken. The liveried servant who guides you will tell you, with -strong aspirations, of the “helementary” classes and the “school of -harts.” In describing the <i>modus operandi</i> of taking the gold medal, the -graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair, which is several hundred -years old, you will be told “it’s a very ’igh honor.”</p> - -<p>In the “Edinburgh Café,” a fairish kind of restaurant<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> in Princes -street, opposite the Scott monument, a penny is charged for the -privilege of washing your hands, and a penny for the use of a napkin. -The majority of this café’s customers, however, if the truth must be -told, make a <i>mouchoir</i> serve for a <i>serviette</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Slippers Supplied Free.</span>—If you go to Philp’s Cockburn (pronounced -Coburn) Hotel in Edinburgh, it matters not if you have forgotten to pack -your slippers in your portmanteau, for the porter will provide you with -a pair. One hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are kept at this hotel -for the use of guests. A foot of any size can be accommodated, and there -is no charge.</p> - -<p>Smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of Scotch hotels, and a notice to -that effect is posted in each room. “Smoking rooms” are provided, and -only such apartment may be used for this purpose. They are both smoky -and dingy.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">An Edinburgh Dollar Dinner.</span>—I have dined at the leading hotels in New -York, at “The States,” in Saratoga, the Breslin, at Lake Hopatcong, and -my experience includes the leading hotels in the principal European -capitals, and the leading hotels in the Southern and far Western States, -as far as California, yet I can say that the <i>table d’hôte</i> dinner -served at Philp’s Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh (on Sunday, August 24, -1890), will rank with the fare at any of these houses, and it excels the -table d’hôte at some high-priced hotels in London and Paris. And the -price charged for this dinner was very moderate—only four shillings, -about one dollar. The dinner included grouse, peaches, strawberries and -nectarines, and from the hare soup down to the dessert, everything was -well cooked and nicely served. The charge is remarkably moderate when it -is understood that this is a “temperance house,” and when you know that -the choice fruit is grown under glass at high cost. The dinner would -have been perfect with <i>café noir</i> at the close, but this is not served -in British hotels without additional charge.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_BURNS_MONUMENT" id="THE_BURNS_MONUMENT"></a>THE BURNS MONUMENT.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>If Baltimore is the monumental city of the United States, Edinburgh may -surely be called the monumental city of the United Kingdom. The majority -of its public buildings, of freestone or granite, are noble structures -standing on hills in the heart of the city, and for their situation -alone would command admiration—the old Castle, Nelson monument, the -city prison, the National Gallery, the Bank of Scotland, etc. No bank in -the world occupies a more commandiug site than the one just named. Owing -to the peculiar natural formation of the land upon which the city is -built, an observer may stand in one spot in Edinburgh (say the Waverly -Gardens) and see a greater number of splendid buildings at a glance than -may be seen simultaneously from the level in any other city.</p> - -<p>Not among the largest by any means but among the most interesting must -be reckoned the Burns monument, which occupies a high position near its -still higher neighbor, the Nelson monument, on Calton Hill. The Burns -monument was built in 1830 for the purpose of containing a marble statue -of the poet by Flaxman. The building, of freestone, is a circular temple -on a quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of twelve -Corinthian columns which support an entablature and cornice. Over this -is a cupola, a restoration of the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The -whole is surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins. The -extreme height of the structure is fifty feet, the twelve outside -columns are fourteen feet high and the twelve inside columns are ten -feet high. The latter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> are of freestone painted to represent variegated -marble. The cost of the monument and statue was three thousand three -hundred pounds sterling (about sixteen thousand five hundred -dollars)—not a large sum considering the result attained.</p> - -<p>Besides the statue of the poet, the monument holds a number of -relics—letters written by or to Burns, the worm-eaten three legged -stool upon which the poet sat in 1786 and ’87 while correcting the -proofs of his poems, and other things of interest. One of the most -interesting letters is that subjoined. As is well known, the poet -spelled his name Burness (his family name) until the publication of his -poems in 1786. The letter is thus addressed:</p> - -<div class="blockquottt"> -<p class="nind"> -To</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span style="margin-right: 15%;">Mr. James Burness,</span><br /> - -Writer, Montrose.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<i>My Dear Cousin</i>:<br /> -</p> - -<p>When you offered me money assistance, little did I think I should -want it so soon. A rascal of a haberdasher to whom I owe a -considerable bill, taking into his head that I am dying, has -commenced a process against me and will infallibly put my emaciated -body into jail. Will you be so good as to accommodate me, and that -by return of post, with ten pounds. O, James, did you know the -pride of my heart you would feel doubly for me. Alas, I am not used -to beg. The worse of it is my health was coming about finely, you -know, and my physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits -are half my disease. Guess then my horrors since this business -began. If I had it settled I would be, I think, quite well in a -manner. O, do not disappoint me.</p></div> - -<p>Among other relics preserved in frames and hung on the walls is the -printed newspaper report of Burns’s death. This occurred at Dumfries, -July 21, 1796, and the report appeared in the London <i>Herald</i> of July -27—nearly one week after. The London <i>Herald</i> of that day was a very -small sheet, about fifteen inches long and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> only four columns wide, -price fourpence halfpenny a copy. The obituary notice is unique and is -worth reproducing to-day:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DEATH OF MR. ROBERT BURNS,<br /> -<small>THE CELEBRATED POET.</small></p> - -<p>On the twenty-first instant died at Dumfries, after a lingering -illness, the celebrated Robert Burns. His poetical compositions, -distinguished equally by the force of native humor, by the warmth -and tenderness of passion, and by the glowing touches of a -descriptive pencil, will remain a lasting monument of the vigor and -versatility of a mind, guided only by the light of nature and the -inspirations of genius. The public, to whose amusement he so -largely contributed, will learn with regret that the last months of -his short life were spent in sickness and indigence, and his widow -and five infant children, and in the hourly expectation of a sixth, -is now left without any resource but what she may hope from the -regard due to the memory of her husband.</p></div> - -<p>Apropos to the subject come these remarks in the New York <i>Sun</i>:</p> - -<div class="blockquottt"><p>It is better to write a little book that is full of heart and -brains than a big book that lacks both. Probably there is no writer -but Robert Burns who has made such broad and enduring renown as his -through a book as small as his. This thought arose while taking a -glimpse of a new statue of the bard that is to be erected in a city -out West. There is a statue of Burns in our Central Park; there is -another up at Albany; there is at least one in Australia, and there -are several statues of him in the British Isles. All that he wrote -appears as a tiny volume in the latest edition of his works; much -of it is in a dialect that is hard to be understood by -English-speaking people, and he died in obscurity about one hundred -years ago. Yet there are probably as many public statues of him in -various parts of the globe as there are of Shakespeare, who wrote -voluminously.</p></div> - -<p>Monuments, however, are not Edinburgh’s only attractions, but do not -count on seeing the sights there on Sunday. The day is closely and -strictly observed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> London is surely quiet enough on a Sunday, but it is -gayety itself when compared with the capital of Scotland. Not a shop is -open; even the drug shops are open only during two hours. Everything is -shut as tight as a drum in Edinburgh except the churches, and to these -you must either walk or hire a carriage, for not the wheel of an omnibus -or car turns on Sunday.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_016.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_016_sml.jpg" width="259" height="218" alt="THE BURNS MONUMENT." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE BURNS MONUMENT.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span></p> - -<h2> -<a href="images/ill_017.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_017_sml.jpg" width="207" height="209" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<br /><br /> -RIGHT REVEREND THE MODERATOR,<br /> -<small>JAMES MACGREGOR, D. D.</small></h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>In September, 1890, I had the privilege of listening to England’s -foremost preacher, Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, in his Tabernacle at Newington -Butts, in London; and one year later, on Sunday, September 16, 1891, -happening to be in Edinburgh, I made it a point to hear the Rev. James -Macgregor, the leading light of the Scotch Presbyterian Church.</p> - -<p>Americans mostly flock to St. Giles’s in Canongate, on account of its -age and historical associations. They attend divine service there early -in the morning with the soldiers from the old castle. But I wanted to -hear a great preacher, so I repaired to Synod Hall, which the members of -St. Cuthbert’s parish were using as a temporary place of worship.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span></p> - -<p>The extensive alterations, internally and externally, which were then -making in St. Cuthbert’s Church, will render it, in some respects, -worthy of the site, and of its long and honorable history. The present -structure dates from the year 1775. Only the tower and spire of the old -church will be retained, and the new edifice, which will not be finished -until the autumn of 1892, will accommodate a much larger number of -people than the former building did.</p> - -<p>It is a notable fact that on the spot where the building stands—under -the Castle Rock of Edinburgh—Christian worship has been continuously -maintained for more than a thousand years. It is, indeed, one of the -very oldest shrines in Scotland, hallowed by the prayers of the -faithful, which have arisen from it for century upon century.</p> - -<p>Originally a mere Culdee cell, dedicated to the memory of Cuthbert, the -monk of Lindisfarne, it has passed through a variety of forms. Changing -with the revolutions of Scottish history, it has been Roman Catholic, -Presbyterian, Episcopalian, and finally Presbyterian.</p> - -<p>The whole aspect of the place where it rose has changed. The Nor’ Loch, -which stretched away from it eastward under the Castle Rock, has -disappeared; the sweep of undulating country has been transformed into -wide streets; a great city has arisen around it; and it still remains -what it has been for ages, a centre of Christian influence to a wide -community.</p> - -<p>It is interesting as a piece of religious history to note that within -little more than a stone’s throw of the site of the present structure is -the spot where the first General Assembly was held on the 20th of -December, 1560. It consisted of forty-two members, of whom only six were -ministers. The first name on the roll is that of “John Knox.” It was a -fully equipped Ecclesiastical Convention, and at once proceeded to -important business. There is no parallel instance of a court with such<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> -authority springing so suddenly into being. That authority was almost -sovereign. It was based on the sanction and support of the popular will. -With a power to which the Scottish Parliament never attained, it was the -representative assembly of the Scottish people, embracing within it from -the very beginning the pith of the nation’s manhood. The General -Assembly was simply the Scotch people convened, through their natural -representatives, to settle their own religious affairs. And they did it -effectually. Never was a change so radical and so beneficial effected in -as brief a space of time as that accomplished by the Scottish -Reformation.</p> - -<p>So much for the past. Synod Hall, which, as I have said, was temporarily -occupied by the congregation of St. Cuthbert’s, is a large freestone -building occupying a prominent site in Castle Terrace opposite the back -of the Castle. It accommodates about twenty-five hundred people. A bold -placard in the vestibule informed the hundreds of strangers in and about -the vestibule that they would be admitted into the body of the church a -few minutes before the services commenced. The “strangers” waited with -all the patience they could command, and when the sign was made by one -of the deacons, they flocked in, a large space at the back of the house -being set apart for them. Soon every seat was occupied and people were -requested to please sit closer together. Then, when there was not an -inch of room to spare on the benches, chairs were placed in the aisles.</p> - -<p>Dr. James Macgregor, the present minister, was appointed Moderator of -the General Assembly for the current year in May, 1891. He has been -connected with St. Cuthbert’s for fourteen years, having succeeded Dr. -Barclay, now in Montreal. St. Cuthbert’s, or, as it is also called, the -“West End Church,” is not given to making changes oftener than is -necessary. Dr. Barclay<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> is said to be the only man who ever left St. -Cuthbert’s; his predecessors all died at their posts.</p> - -<p>In Synod Hall there is no organ; the music was supplied by the -congregation and a choir. St. Cuthbert’s usually rejoices in a large -choir, but on the occasion of my visit many of its members were “away on -their holidays,” as they call their vacation in Great Britain. The choir -on that Sunday numbered fifteen—three men and twelve of the gentler -sex.</p> - -<p>Mr. Edie, a promising and rather brilliant man under thirty, who has a -clear voice and a Scotch accent is assistant to Dr. Macgregor. The first -selection of song which he gave out was the 129th Psalm:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Lord of the worlds above<br /></span> -<span class="i2">How pleasant and how fair<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The dwellings of Thy love,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The earthly temples are.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Then Mr. Edie read the 62d Chapter of Isaiah. The next selection for the -congregation was the 102d Psalm, 6th Verse: “And God in His glory shall -appear;” and then the 356th Hymn: “Te Deum Laudamus.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Edie concluded his part of the services with a fervent and beautiful -prayer in which, after the Queen, Prince of Wales, the princess, the -judges and magistrates of great Britain were enumerated, special mention -was made of the President and people of the United States; of “our -wandering brethren, the children of Israel; of our Catholic brethren; -bless all honorable business men; bless our friends and also those who -have wronged us.”</p> - -<p>Dr. Macgregor, who then rose from a chair, took his text from the 4th -Chapter, 1st Verse, of “Hosea:” “Hear the word of the Lord, ye children -of Israel.”</p> - -<p>Then followed a brilliant discourse on the history of the Jewish race, -in which, incidentally, much information was conveyed, the main ideas -being: first, that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> government of Great Britain should use its -influence in behalf of the Russian refugees; second that the Christian -people owe much to the Jews and should therefore be most charitable -toward them.</p> - -<p>The minister paid a high tribute to the chosen people and their -characteristics. He said that the countries which abused them most, -Spain and Portugal, had been least prosperous, and it would be strange, -indeed, if Russia suffered not for its inhuman persecution of them; -that, in fact, it was suffering.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding that they had been downtrodden for centuries, the Jews -were vastly stronger in numbers to-day than ever before in the history -of the world, numbering at the present time twelve millions.</p> - -<p>The speaker showed that the decline of Jerusalem was owing to the -comparatively small number of Jews there in later years, and he strongly -advocated their return.</p> - -<p>To quote the doctor almost verbatim: “I may be criticised for -criticising Russia. Some may say: ‘Let each country look after its own -affairs, and it will have enough to do. It is none of England’s business -what Russia does,’ but I say it is the business of every civilized -country, of every civilized man; it is your business and my business; it -affects each and every one of us; it hurts you and me, and it is to be -hoped that Great Britain will lift up its voice and use its influence in -behalf of these much injured refugees.”</p> - -<p>If this discourse had been especially prepared to deliver before a -strictly and exclusively Jewish assemblage, it could not have been more -complimentary to their people. One of its “points” was thus worded: -“There must be something wrong with that man’s head—with that man’s -heart who despises the Jews.”</p> - -<p>Dr. Macgregor has the title of one of Her Majesty’s chaplains; he is a -member of the Hon. Royal Scottish Academy, and a member of the Royal -Society of Edinburgh, but a self-made man withal. He is not ashamed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> to -acknowledge that his parents were poor and modest. He may have lacked -early advantages, but he certainly has made the best of his later -opportunities. He is a man of fine intellect; a ripe scholar, with broad -and liberal views. His language is choice, and yet the fine phrases and -well selected words seem to follow each other with great ease. His -diction is neither stilted nor is it too simple but that of an -intellectual man who is addressing intelligent people.</p> - -<p>His voice, notwithstanding a certain and unmistakable nasal quality, is -penetrating—and his elocutionary powers are great. I was on the last -bench, with my back against the wall, and I heard almost every word. I -could not follow the speaker quickly on account of his strong Scottish -accent—“murdering” became “mu<i>rr</i>de<i>rr</i>ing,” with a most decided roll -of the <i>r</i>, and “Turks” came to me in two syllables, something like -“Turreks,” while “earth” was changed to “airth,” with the <i>r</i> in the -middle by no means slighted.</p> - -<p>The speaker’s facial expressions were a study, and his gesticulations at -times strikingly dramatic. He appealed in tender and pathetic tones to -the hearts of his hearers, with hands uplifted as if in supplication, -and then again he would raise his head and fold his arms across his -chest in a Napoleonic, defiant attitude when combating the arguments of -an imaginary adversary.</p> - -<p>In fact, he does not seem to be addressing a large audience, but talking -to and debating with but one person, and each person in the congregation -might imagine that he was that one. He takes both sides in the debate, -and makes both effective, but he carries the day for his own because he -is on the side of right.</p> - -<p>Dr. Macgregor closed the service with Hymn 117:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Arm of the Lord, awake, awake!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Put on Thy strength, the nations shake;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And let the world, adoring see<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Triumphs of mercy wrought by Thee.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span></p> - -<p>When the moderator is in the pulpit you do not notice that he is below -the medium height; only when he steps down, and when you stand by his -side, do you observe that he is small of stature—not much over five -feet. His eye has a most kindly expression, his voice is pleasing in -conversation, and his manner gracious and gentle. The accompanying -portrait is reproduced from a photograph made by John Moffatt, 125 -Princes street, Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>On the day I had the good fortune to be present, there were in the -congregation many prominent members of the Archæological Society of -Scotland, who were on a temporary visit to Edinburgh, including the -Bishop of Carlisle and the Earl of Percy, heir to the dukedom of -Northumberland.</p> - -<p>After the service I had the honor of being presented to Dr. Macgregor by -a member of this society, in “The Moderator’s Room,” so inscribed on the -door. Upon hearing that I was “from the States,” he immediately -expressed his great admiration for the country and its form of -government. He seemed to be well-informed regarding our people and the -country, and said that one of his cherished hopes was to make us a -visit.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_018.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_018_sml.jpg" width="128" height="86" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CROSSING_THE_CHANNEL" id="CROSSING_THE_CHANNEL"></a>CROSSING THE CHANNEL.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>There are many ways of “crossing” between the Continent and the English -coast, or <i>vice versa</i>. The best steamers between England and Holland -are those which go from Rotterdam to Harwich. Harwich (Anglice, -Harridge) is about a two hours’ run up to London. I have tried the -different ways of crossing from the French coast to England—via -Newhaven and Dieppe, Folkstone and Boulogne, and Calais and Dover. The -last route is by far the best. It would be preferred over all others, if -for only one reason, because it is the shortest, the English Channel -being “disagreeable” at least one half the year. The Calais and Dover -boats are advertised to make the trip between the two points “in seventy -minutes,” and they do actually make it in one hour and a quarter. The -other routes are much longer. No small craft that ply on the English -waters are as beautiful in their appointments as our Hudson river boats, -or those for instance of the Fall River line, but they are staunch and -swift, and they are manned by as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a -deck. The English boats are proof against wind and wave, the only danger -being from fire or fog, but as they are officered by skillful and -experienced navigators, and are very carefully handled, the danger is -reduced to a minimum.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PARIS_HOTELS" id="PARIS_HOTELS"></a>PARIS HOTELS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Paris is not in the least behind other cities in the number of its -hotels nor in the variety of accommodations offered. Your choice must -depend first upon the length of your purse; second, upon the length of -your stay; third, the purpose of your visit. The number in the party and -their individual tastes and requirements must also be taken into -account.</p> - -<p>I have not passed near so much time in Paris as in London. The most I -can do is to suggest a few of the choicest hotels and <i>pensions</i> with -which I am acquainted, giving their rates and distinctive features.</p> - -<p>For information as to Where to Dine in Paris I must refer the reader to -a chapter further on, entitled “The Restaurants of Paris,” by that -facile magazinist and connoisseur in many arts, Mr. Theodore Child. It -first appeared in a book entitled “Living Paris,” which was published in -London three years ago by Ward & Downey, and is the most complete and -comprehensive Guide to Paris I have ever seen.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>THE GRAND HOTEL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The Grand Hotel is one of the largest and most expensive. It is grand in -size; grand in appointments. It is not a cheap house in any sense of -that term, and possibly for that reason is largely patronized by -Americans. The building occupies a square block facing that magnificent -street, l’Avenue de l’Opéra, diagonally across<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> from the Grand Opera -House. It encloses a large courtyard with fountains and parterres. The -<i>caves</i> of the Grand are ranked as one of the sights of Paris; they are -stocked with the choicest of wines. Rooms from six francs per day: table -d’hôte dinner, seven francs.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL CONTINENTAL.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The Continental, on the corner of the rue de Rivoli and rue Castiglione, -is opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Near by are Hotel des -Invalides, the Madeleine, the Eiffel Tower and other interesting -buildings. It is large and elegant—grander than the Grand. The grounds, -with the structure and furnishing are said to have cost a few millions -of francs, and it may be readily believed. Some of the rooms are -palatial in size, furniture and decorations.</p> - -<p>The rates at the Continental are a little lower than at the Grand. They -range all the way from five francs to thirty-five francs per day for -room; lights and attendance extra. Breakfast of coffee, chocolate or tea -with rolls, from one to two francs; breakfast proper, or <i>déjeuner à la -fourchette</i>, five francs, wine and coffee included. Table d’hôte dinner, -seven francs. At all Paris hotels wine is included in the charge for -dinner, but at the Continental on Sundays, champagne as well as <i>vin -ordinaire</i> is served free, but not, as in the case of the latter, in -unlimited quantity.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL MEURICE.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Smaller than these two hotels and for that reason thought by some to be -more select is the Hotel Meurice, in rue de Rivoli. It is near rue -Castiglione and opposite<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> the Tuileries gardens, altogether a beautiful -location. Issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning to the left, a -few minutes walk brings you to the Palais Royal and the Louvre -galleries; or turning to the right a few steps bring you past the hotel -Continental, to Place de la Concorde and the Champs Élysées. It may seem -strange to those who have not lived in continental hotels, to note that -the hotel Meurice is scrupulously clean. You observe this in its -beautiful courtyard, in its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept -bedrooms.</p> - -<p>The hotel is patronized by leading New York families and by the best -English society, and it ranks as does the Brunswick or the Victoria in -New York. The <i>cuisine</i> of the house is famous and its cellars contain -rare wines. Hotel Meurice was established in 1815 and its present -proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years. If your stay in Paris -is to cover a week or more, you—and especially the ladies of your -party—will find this hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn; -Baedeker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are accompanied by -ladies. Hotel Meurice has electric light, and new plumbing was put in a -few years ago. It accommodates two hundred guests. Single rooms from -five francs per day; apartments from fifteen to one hundred francs. -Table d’hôte dinner, at six P.M., six francs. Proprietor, H. Schëurich; -address, 228 rue de Rivoli.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL CHATHAM.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Hotel Chatham is justly famed as one of the most elegantly appointed of -Paris hotels. I have known it for twenty years, and for twenty-five -years it has been the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> temporary home of travellers of all -nations,—those who demand the best hotel accommodations. Hotel Chatham -occupies a central location, near the Opéra, rue de la Paix, the -theatres, and the best shopping streets. Once inside the house, however, -and an air of tranquility reigns that is in marked contrast to the busy -life of the city, in the midst of which the hotel is situated. The first -feature of the Hotel Chatham that attracts attention is the large, -light, and spacious courtyard, fifty by one hundred feet. It makes an -impression that gains in favor when you see the apartments. The grand -salon, the reading-room and café look out upon this courtyard, which is -embellished with plants and flowers.</p> - -<p>The sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished, have plenty of light -and good ventilation. There are elegant suites, also choice single and -double rooms. The decorations are in good taste. In the best apartments -the walls are not hung with paper, but are covered with stuffs—a -mixture of worsted and soft silks. Hot and cold water on every floor. -Two features especially commend themselves to those who are acquainted -with foreign hotels; there are two Otis elevators, and the house is -lighted throughout by electricity—shedding a light in the rooms, not of -one <i>bougie</i>, but of twenty. The cuisine represents the perfection of -the culinary art, and the wine-cellars are celebrated for their famous -vintages.</p> - -<p>The Hotel Chatham is the home of the best people and many Americans -annually seek its hospitality. The Harpers, for instance, members of the -great publishing house, are among its regular guests. The present -proprietor is M. H. Holzschuch, son of the late owner, under whom the -house acquired its wide fame. Hotel Chatham is at 17 and 19 rue Daunou, -between rue de la Paix and Boulevard des Capucines.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span></p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL BINDA.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Everybody in Paris knows the Hotel Binda, and it is known by a great -many people who have never been in Paris. With New Yorkers the house is -a favorite because it is kept by Mr. Charles Binda who for years was -manager of Delmonico’s, and this settles at once and satisfactorily the -important question of <i>cuisine</i>. The house was opened in 1878. It is -solidly built of stone, five stories high, and is an imposing structure. -It stands in rue de l’Echelle, on a corner of the avenue de l’Opéra, the -principal business street of Paris, and probably the handsomest shopping -street in the world. It is most conveniently located for the principal -places of interest—the Grand Opera, Palais Royal, the Louvre galleries, -etc. One minute’s walk brings you to the rue de Rivoli, that wide open -street, one side of which is flanked by the open and beautiful gardens -of the Tuileries.</p> - -<p>If in the heat of a summer day in walking to Place Vendome or to the -Champs Élysées, you wish to avoid sunny rue de Rivoli, shade is at your -very door in the narrow but picturesque rue St. Honoré, which, with its -little shops, its hotels, old churches, etc., is a feature of outdoor -life in Paris.</p> - -<p>The Grand Opera is at the other end of the Avenue de l’Opéra, a short -walk. But omnibuses pass the door, by which you can reach any part of -Paris at the expense of a few sous. And, for that matter, it is only a -thirty-cent cab fare to the Grand Opera, to the offices of the American -Minister, Whitelaw Reid, in Avenue Hoche, or to the Anglo-American Bank -on the corner of Chaussée d’Antin and rue Meyerbeer. <i>Cocher</i> will go -fast enough if by the course and slow enough (too slow) if by the hour.</p> - -<p>Instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in Paris have, and which in -some cases are useless, the space on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> the ground floor is used by the -Binda for a grand, glass-enclosed reception and reading-room, -beautifully lighted by day and by night. There is also a grand -drawing-room and a smoking-room, which unlike the dingy rooms turned -over to the use of men in some English hotels is, in the Binda, a very -bright and attractive apartment.</p> - -<p>All the apartments are comfortably and tastefully furnished, but some of -the rooms are furnished in palatial style. There are baths on every -floor and some rooms have running water. Of course there are electric -lights and an <i>ascenseur</i>, Anglice “lift.” But for all its grandeur, one -may live at the Binda at moderate cost.</p> - -<p>If you know about how wide you wish to open your purse in selecting -apartments you can tell as precisely as you could in an American hotel -how much your bill will amount to for a stay of five days or five weeks. -Single rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day; double -rooms from fourteen to thirty francs. Special rates, lower than these, -are made to guests remaining a length of time. Here is the tariff for -the dining-room: Plain breakfast (tea or chocolate) 1f. 50c., about 30 -cents; table d’hôte dinner, served at separate tables, 6f., servant’s -board 6f. per day. No charge is made for attendance.</p> - -<p>That Charles Binda is proprietor is guarantee that the table is equal to -the Cambridge in New York, or the Albemarle in London, and these satisfy -the most fastidious. Mr. Binda is famous for his <i>cuisine</i>, but he -prides himself most upon the quality of his guests. He demands that -above and beyond everything else his house shall be select, and it is so -in the fullest sense. You may meet crowned heads and princes there. Hon. -Thomas L. James, one of New York’s honored and honorable citizens, with -his charming family, stayed at the Binda while he was in Paris last -summer, and I also saw Judge Dittenhoefer, the family of Vice-Consul<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> -Hooper, and other well-known Americans in the reading-room. Yes, the -Binda is a select family hotel. Address No. 11 rue de l’Echelle.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<h3>HOTEL ANGLO-FRANÇAIS.</h3> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>There are several comparatively small but decidedly pleasant hotels in -rue Castiglione—Hotel Liverpool, Hotel Balmoral and Hotel -Anglo-Français. The last-named is especially to be commended for its -choice location, the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms, its -appetizing cuisine, and its remarkably moderate charges. It is in rue -Castiglione, directly opposite the Continental; two blocks one way from -the Column Vendome, two blocks from the Place de la Concorde, near the -Champs Élysées, and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful gardens -of the Tuileries.</p> - -<p>Like the majority of Paris hotels, the Anglo-Français is entered by a -court-yard, but unlike some of them, the ventilation and lighting of the -house are good. It has ample room for more than one hundred guests, and -they can be made very comfortable.</p> - -<p>The house is kept on the American as well as on the European plan. If -you adopt the system which prevails abroad, you may hire a single room -as low as four francs per day, or a double room from seven francs per -day; breakfast, three francs; luncheon, four francs; table d’hôte -dinner, six francs. This figure includes good wine in <i>quantum -sufficit</i>, as a medical man might say. As at nearly all Continental -hotels, “service” is charged. In this instance it is one franc per day; -and you pay for lights—item seventy-five centimes, about fifteen cents.</p> - -<p>But if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and save the bother of -reckoning, you can stay at the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span>Anglo-Français, and your whole bill per -day for board, lodging, lights, wine, etc., will be the moderate sum of -fifteen francs (three dollars), which, considering the appointments of -the house, the excellent table and the attention you receive, is an -uncommonly low rate.</p> - -<p>The proprietor is a gentleman of decidedly pleasant and courteous -manners, who, having lived in England for twenty years, is perfectly at -home in the English language as well as his native tongue.</p> - -<p>If you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set, the Bristol is your -house; if you want to see and be with Americans only, then select the -Grand. The Continental is the place for those who would feast their eyes -on palatial salons: at the Anglo-Français you will get into the company -of good people from different countries, you can be quiet and -comfortable and made to feel at home, as is to be expected in a smaller -house. Moreover, your purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance -with the figures given above. Proprietor, Paul Vargues; address, No. 6 -rue Castiglione.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel de Lille et d’Albion</span>, in rue St. Honoré is not a very large house, -but it is ranked among the best, although its charges are quite -moderate. It has baths, lift, electric light and English billiard -tables, its modern contrivances including telephonic communication with -the leading European cities. The sanitary arrangements are said to be -perfect. The location is central for shopping, for places of amusement -and points of interest, being near Place Vendome, Tuileries Gardens and -the Opera. Mail address, 223 rue St. Honoré: telegraph address, -Lillalbion, Paris.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel Bristol and Hotel du Rhin</span> both front on the Place Vendome; you -can’t miss them: they are near the tall and graceful Column Vendome -which pierces the sky from the centre of the square. There is no -question as to the excellence of either of these houses. Both are -patronized by a select class of patrons; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> former is the home of the -Prince of Wales when he visits Paris.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel Liverpool</span> is patronized by the Astors. To Americans this -information conveys more than could be detailed in a whole page of -description. It is situated at 11 rue Castiglione, a wide and -fashionable thoroughfare leading from Place Vendome to the Tuileries -Gardens. The house was recently newly fitted up and has a hydraulic -lift. There are large apartments for families making a more or less -prolonged stay; smaller apartments for transient guests.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel de l’Athénée.</span> Of hotels just as select as any of those mentioned, -there are a score or more. Among them may be mentioned the Hotel de -l’Athénée, 15 rue Scribe. It was recently enlarged, the whole of the -Théâtre de l’Athénée having been added, and the former dining-room is -now converted into a reading room. There are two bath-rooms on each -floor. The appointments include a parlor, a reading room, a restaurant a -la carte, and two private dining-rooms. There are 180 rooms in all, -which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day, but there are not -very many rooms in the house at four francs.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Des Deux Mondes.</span>—A comfortable family hotel, newly and tastefully -furnished, is the Hotel des Deux Mondes, 22 Avenue de l’Opéra, facing -full south. The charges are moderate and the table d’hôte good.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Prince Albert.</span>—If price alone is a recommendation there is the Hotel du -Prince Albert, 5 rue St. Hyacinthe, near the Tuileries. Rooms from 2 -francs 50 centimes per day with even lower terms for the winter. The -house seeks American patronage.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel Brighton</span>, 218 rue de Rivoli. Rooms from 6 francs per day: -breakfast, 2 francs, dinner 7 francs. Proprietor, A. Bastianello.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel Campbell.</span>—This favorite house with an English name has changed -hands, lately. Arthur Geissler<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span> is the new proprietor. It is at 61 and -63 Avenue de Friedland, a pleasant and fashionable location, near the -grand drive of the Champs Élysées. The house is in a healthy condition -and the rates are moderate, Hotel Campbell is easy to find; it is close -to the Arc de Triomphe.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_019.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_019_sml.jpg" width="204" height="189" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PENSIONS_OF_THE_FIRST_CLASS" id="PENSIONS_OF_THE_FIRST_CLASS"></a>PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>But you are not forced to patronize any hotel, large or small; there are -many very delightful <i>pensions</i> or boarding houses in Paris. These some -people prefer, if their party includes ladies, or if they intend to make -a protracted stay. A few of these <i>pensions</i> are presided over by -American women.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Lafond</span> combines some of the best features of hotel and <i>pension</i>. It -is at 14 rue de la Tremoille, near the Champs Élysées. It is called “a -comfortable American home,” and is made all the more comfortable by -having a lift. Rates for two persons in one room, with three meals per -day, 18 to 30 francs per day; single rooms, 10 to 15 francs per day; -children and servants, half rates. These figures include all charges; -the American plan. If you prefer the European plan, these rates -prevail—breakfast, two to four francs; luncheon, three francs: dinner -at 7 P.M., five francs. Cable address, Lafhotel, Paris.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hotel de Dijon</span> is situated in rue Canmartin, between the Opéra and the -Madeleine. It is a family <i>pension</i>, and the charges range from 7 to 10 -francs per day, according to rooms. Soirées are held every Friday with -music, singing and dancing. The table d’hôte is good; there are reading, -smoking and bath-rooms.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Van Pelt Pension</span> at 69 Boulevard St. Michel is kept by Mrs. E. L. -Van Pelt, a Philadelphia woman who took with her to Paris the best -American references. This place has many features which commend it to -the stranger in Paris. Its location, facing the Luxembourg Gardens, is -near the famous art schools<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> and the Sorbonne, where free lectures are -given, thus making this a desirable residence for students. It is within -easy access by omnibus, cab or train to all parts of Paris and environs. -The house stands on a corner, and all the rooms are exposed to the sun -and air. A balcony surrounds the first floor. French is the language of -the household, and a chaperon accompanies ladies to lectures, etc. There -is a separate table for those who prefer to speak English.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">American Family Home.</span>—This term is appropriately applied to the -<i>pension de famille</i> presided over by a young French widow whose -personal beauty and grace of manner are more than marked. Reference is -made to Madame Veuve Léon Glatz, who is assisted in her duties by her -sister. Both of them speak English with a pretty and piquant accent. The -Glatz <i>pension</i> is in rue de Clichy, five minutes distant from St. -Lazare Station and Park Monceau; ten minutes from la Madelaine and the -Opera. It was built in 1885 and is sanitarily correct; supplied with -pure spring water from the new water works of Paris. There is a really -grand <i>salon</i> in which <i>musicales</i> are given weekly. In the rear of this -is a large and handsome garden, neatly kept—a very pretty lounging -place on summer evenings. There are baths in the house, the bedrooms are -nicely furnished, the service is good, and last, and by no means least -worthy of note is the table, which is liberally supplied; the best as to -quality. But Madame Glatz at present has only room for thirty guests and -her house is in such demand that you must engage rooms months, or at -least weeks, in advance. Terms, 8 to 14 francs per day, which is the -full charge; no extras, except, possibly, for lights. This is a favorite -place with Americans of refinement: others are not admitted to Madame -Glatz’s charming family circle. Address, 45 rue de Clichy.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Powers Pension</span>—One of the most desirable <i>pensions</i> in Paris, -especially desirable for Americans, is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> kept not by a “charming -Frenchwoman,” nor by a “hearty” Britisher, but by a couple of -cultivated, good Americans, well-known in New York—Mr. and Mrs. J. G. -Powers, Jr. The house is in a high and delightful location, in the -American quarter, 69 Avenue d’Antin, near the Champs Élysées. Mrs. -Powers claims that it is “the most elegant and comfortable <i>pension</i> in -Europe,” and I, who have had some experience in hotels and <i>pensions</i> of -the first rank, do not contradict the statement. I am not given to using -the adjective “elegant” too freely, but elegant and tasteful are words -that come to mind without summoning, in speaking of the Powers -<i>pension</i>. The <i>salon</i> is a beautiful apartment; yes, uncommonly -beautiful. It is on Monday evenings more particularly that this <i>salon</i> -looks its best, when the receptions, with music, are held. The Powers -<i>pension</i> is a select family home in the strictest sense of the term, -and the rates for board are quite reasonable: pleasant rooms and three -meals from ten francs per day. A lift was put in last autumn. Make a -note of the address—69 Avenue d’Antin.</p> - -<p>In the hotels mentioned the reader has a very wide latitude of choice -and he may be guided by the facts and the figures set forth, so far as -they go. As a last word I will add that if the reader “puts up” at the -Hotel Chatham, Hotel Binda, or the Anglo-Français, or the <i>pensions</i> of -Mr. and Mrs. Powers, Madame Veuve Glatz, or Mrs. Van Pelt, he will -surely have no occasion to regret his choice of quarters.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_020.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_020_sml.jpg" width="118" height="47" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_RESTAURANTS_OF_PARIS" id="THE_RESTAURANTS_OF_PARIS"></a>THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="c"><small>BY THEODORE CHILD.</small></p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>In order to anticipate criticism, and to avoid disappointment, it may be -well to state at once that the art of cookery is in a terrible state of -decadence in Paris. The men of the present generation do not seem to -have the sentiment of the table; they know neither its varied resources -nor its infinite refinements; their palates are dull, and they are -content to eat rather than to dine. This decadence may be remarked both -in private and in public establishments. The <i>gourmet</i> nowadays is a -rarity, and a man of thirty years of age who knows how to order a dinner -is a still greater rarity. One might discover many causes of this -decline of a delicate art. The conditions of contemporary life, the -hurry and unrest of modern Paris, doubtless do not conduce to the -appreciation of fine cooking; but the chief cause of the decline of -cookery in restaurants is the development of club life. The men of -fashion, leisure, or wealth, who formerly would have lived at the -restaurants, now dine at their clubs between two <i>séances</i> at the -baccarat table, and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of -regular and fastidious customers which, by its readiness to criticise -and appreciate, obliged and encouraged the <i>chef</i> to keep up the -traditions of the dainty palates of the past. At present the great -restaurants of Paris depend for support as much on foreigners and on -provincial people as on resident Parisians. The criticism of their -cookery is less constant and less rigorous; the bills<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> of fare are less -varied than they were of old; the <i>amour propre</i> of the cooks is less; -in a word, cookery has become nowadays more an industry than an art. -Even in the most famous Parisian restaurants the visitor must not expect -too much in the way either of viands or of wines.</p> - -<p>In certain things, again, it must be remembered that the Parisian market -is inferior to the markets of almost any town in England. The English -visitor generally speaks disparagingly of the French oyster, for -instance, doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor, and yet -I know many connoisseurs who have travelled and dined in many lands who -maintain that of all oysters the green Marennes (<i>Marennes vertes</i>) are -the most delicate and delicious. The lovers of comparisons will ask what -equivalents the French have for real turtle-soup, ox-tail, mulligatawny, -and pea-soup with a sprinkling of dried mint and sippets. Is it their -<i>bisque</i> or <i>purée</i> of crayfish, their <i>consommé de volaille</i>, their -<i>Saint Germain</i>, or green pea-soup, their <i>Parmentier</i>, or thick -potato-soup? But the traveller does not go to Paris to eat the food of -his native land, but rather to enjoy the particular food of the country. -Therefore, he must not expect to get fine salmon, or cod-fish, or -turbot, or even mackerel in Paris. The city is too far away from the sea -to have good salt-water fish. Salmon in Paris is dry and of poor flavor; -fresh cod-fish is rarely seen, and the habits of the restaurants render -it impossible to eat such salmon and turbot as there is in favorable -conditions. In a London restaurant a whole salmon or a whole turbot is -served hot like the joints; in a Paris restaurant, if you order boiled -salmon or turbot, the cook cuts a slice off a parboiled fish, puts the -slice in the pot, and boils it up for you. The result is unsatisfactory. -As a rule, I should say, in a Parisian restaurant eat your salmon and -your turbot cold, and prefer to both a red mullet (<i>rouget</i>), a sole, a -trout, or some fresh-water fish.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> A carefully prepared <i>matelotte -d’anguilles</i>, which is not precisely the same as stewed eels, and -<i>friture de Seine</i>, which need not be compared to whitebait, are both -dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure.</p> - -<p>The French are poor roasters; the roast beef and roast mutton in their -restaurants cannot for a moment be compared with the joints at Simpson’s -or Blanchard’s in London. Pies and puddings also are unknown to the -French, with the exception of <i>pâtés de foie gras</i> and game pies. The -French, again, eat their game very fresh and less cooked than the -English. Generally, I think that the raw material of the Parisian -restaurant cuisine is inferior to that of English restaurants; on the -other hand, with the limitations referred to above, particularly as -regards roasting, the preparation of the dishes is superior, and in the -first-class restaurants unique. In the preparation and variety of -vegetables the French lead the world; in the fabrication of sauces they -are unsurpassed; in the serving and arrangement of a dinner they leave -little to be desired.</p> - -<p>But where can one go to dine in Paris? Which restaurants are the best, -and what are the prices, and what is one to order? The subject is -delicate and even dangerous, for although the critic has the right to -declare a book or picture bad, pernicious, or abominable, and to -pronounce its author to be unworthy of public attention, he dare not be -so outspoken about the wretchedest restaurant-keeper who is licensed to -poison his customers. I cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant -in the Palais Royal is not to be frequented, or that such and such a -gilded palace on the boulevard is an expensive delusion. I may, however, -assure you that as prices run in Paris, it is impossible for a -restaurateur to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat for -less than one and a half francs, and you may therefore conclude that the -restaurateurs who, for a fixed price, varying from one and a quarter to -three francs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> offer you a complete dinner of five courses—soup, fish, -meat, two desserts, and half a bottle of wine—are probably in league -with the honorable apothecaries, whose aid their customers must often -need.</p> - -<p>To the traveller I say avoid <i>prix fixe</i> dinners altogether, or, if you -will satisfy your curiosity, go to the Dîner Européen at the corner of -rue Lepelletier and the boulevard (price five francs), or to the table -d’hôte dinners of those vast caravansaries, the Hôtel du Louvre, the -Grand Hôtel, or the Hôtel Continental, where you dine for six, seven, or -eight francs, and see specimens of men, women and children of all the -countries of the world, and a profusion of linen, of silver plate, and -luxurious surroundings which, for a time, will perhaps distract your -attention from the insipidness of the roasts and the cheapness of the -sauces.</p> - -<p>The Bouillon Duval is an establishment which generally attracts the -attention of the traveller. In every quarter of Paris you see one or two -sober and respectable-looking façades painted dark red and lettered -simply, “Établissement Duval.” The Duval restaurants are wonderfully -organized, exceedingly cheap, and all the food sold in them is good and -genuine; these establishments now serve an average of three million -meals a year. The visitor may often find it convenient in his wanderings -about Paris to lunch in one of these Duval restaurants, if he is out of -the way of any other well-known restaurant. In all of them he will find -the food of the same quality, and the prices the same. As he enters, the -doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin, on which all that he eats and -drinks will be checked off, and which bulletin, when duly paid and -stamped, will serve him as a passport when he leaves the establishment. -The prices at the Duvals are very low; no dish costs more than one -franc, and most of them only fifty or sixty centimes; wine costs twenty -centimes a carafon, which is equivalent to one glassful, or one franc a -bottle<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> and upwards; coffee and cognac costs forty centimes. The Duval -restaurant may be frequented with impunity, for nothing poisonous or -deleterious is sold there; the only disadvantage is that the portions -being very small, a hungry man, in order to satisfy his appetite, will -need so many portions, that his bill will mount up to as much as if he -had lunched or dined in an establishment of superior standing and -comfort. The Bouillon Duval stands in the same relation to the regular -restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the victoria; as -somebody has said, <i>c’est l’omnibus du ventre</i>.</p> - -<p>At length we come to the restaurants proper, the restaurants where one -dines in the true sense of the term. It is commonly believed that the -first-class restaurants in Paris are very dear. The Café Anglais, you -will be told, charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two, and fifteen -francs for a Rouen duck. Yes, but the beefsteak in question is a -Chateaubriand, a kernel of delicate meat cut in the heart of the -<i>filet</i>,—meat that is sold at two and a half francs a pound by the -butcher—and the duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer’s. -Good provisions in Paris are dear, and when one considers the heavy -expenses of the first-class restaurants, one cannot complain of their -charges.</p> - -<p>As regards perfection of cooking, the Café Anglais heads the list. Its -soups and sauces are exquisite; a sole “à l’Orly,” “Colbert,” -“normande,” “à la Join-ville,” or “au vin blanc,” may be eaten there in -perfection, and there is no restaurant in Paris where you can get a more -delicate “sauce diable” served to a grilled fowl. The two great tests of -a French kitchen are soups and sauces; if these are good, you may rest -assured that everything else will be good.</p> - -<p>In the same category with the Café Anglais, both as regards quality of -food and price, may be placed Durand’s, opposite the Madeleine, and -Adolphe and Pellé behind the Opéra. Next come the Maison d’Or, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> Café -de la Paix, Bignon, and the Café de Paris, in the Avenue de l’Opéra, -Voisin in the rue Cambon, the old Véfour in the Palais Royal, the Père -Lathuile, in the Avenue de Clichy, and Fayot, opposite the Luxembourg -Palace. At all these restaurants you can dine delicately and drink as -good wines as are still to be had in France. Voisin and Foyot, -especially, have choice Burgundies of incomparable fineness.</p> - -<p>The third category of restaurants includes the Café Riche, which years -ago belonged to the first category; Brébant’s, now a general Bouillon, -at the corner of Boulevard Montmartre; Chevilliard, at the Rond-Point -des Champs Élysées; Laurent, and Ledoyen, in the Champs Élysées; -Champeaux, Place de la Bourse, where you dine in a perpetual winter -garden; Edouard, Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opéra Comique; Wepler, -Place Clichy; La Pérouse, on the Quai des Grands Augustins; Maire, at -the corner of the Boulevard de Strasbourg and the Boulevard St. Denis; -Marguery, next door to the Gymnase theatre; Perroncel, rue du Havre, -opposite the Gare Saint Lazare. In the Bois du Boulogne the restaurants -of Madrid, and of the Pavilion d’Armenonville are much frequented in the -summer by gay and smart people: the prices are about the same as at the -restaurants in town of the second category, that is to say, two can dine -there modestly with ordinary wine for a louis.</p> - -<p>I presume that the traveller comes to Paris to taste Parisian cooking, -and therefore I shall not recommend him to try the pseudo-English -cuisine of Weber or Lucas in the rue Royale and Place de la Madeleine, -or the Russian restaurant in the rue Marivaux, or the Hungarian -restaurant in the rue Rougemont. There remain then to be mentioned only -a few special establishments, such as the Pied de Mouton near the -Central Market, and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue Montorgueil. -There are several restaurants in Paris which make a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span> specialty of -Bouillabaisse; but I do not recommend that dish in Paris, for the simple -reason that it is not the real article. In the Parisian Bouillabaisse -several of the fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear -transportation from the seaside. The traveller <i>gourmet</i> will prefer to -wait until chance leads him to Marseilles, where the reigning chief of -the great dynasty of Roubion will serve him this savoury dish on a -balcony overlooking the blue Mediterranean. The café concerts in the -Champs Élysées are also much frequented by open air diners in the -summer. The spectacle is curious and amusing, but the <i>gourmet</i> will -flee the promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre cuisine.</p> - -<p>To give precise details as to price is difficult. One may say generally -that at the Café Anglais two persons can dine delicately and well -without stint as to good wines or choice of dishes, for about two louis -(forty francs). On the other hand, the single man who is prepared to -spend not less than seven francs on his dinner may enter boldly any -restaurant in Paris, from the Café Anglais downward, and dine for that -sum on soup, one dish, cheese, and half a bottle of wine. For ten or -twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly almost anywhere, except -at the very tip-top houses, such as the Café Anglais, Durand’s, and -Adolphe and Pellé’s. By way of practical hints I will subjoin a few -observations.</p> - -<p>Beware of <i>hors d’œuvres</i> and baskets of fruit, for their influence -on the total of your bill is alarming. If you are alone, resolutely -refuse radishes and butter, or rather leave them untouched on the table -before you; if you have invited a friend to dinner, offer him <i>hors -d’œuvres</i> and hope that he will refuse; if you are with a lady, both -<i>hors d’œuvres</i> and the basket of fruit are obligatory. Eve offered -fruit to Adam; the least we sons of Adam can do is to return the -politeness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span></p> - -<p>The real <i>gourmet</i> eats by candle-light, because, as Nestor Roqueplan -said, “rein n’est laid comme une sauce vue au soleil.”</p> - -<p>When you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the place that is offered -you. Choose your own table, and if it is breakfast-time secure a view -through the window and a view of the whole restaurant, and if possible -let the light strike on the table from your left hand.</p> - -<p>Preserve your freedom of will, but do not try to impose it. You are the -master, it is true, and yet to a certain extent you must obey. Consult, -therefore, with the <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, consider what he recommends, and -accept it if it be to your taste, for in the good restaurants there is -no question of passing off stale food. The <i>maître d’hôtel</i> is flattered -when you ask his advice, and it is his business to be acquainted with -the special and daily resources of the larder. At places like the Café -Anglais the written <i>menu</i> mentions only a few very ordinary dishes, and -you will inspire respect by not asking for the <i>carte</i>. At Bignon’s do -not trouble yourself about the <i>carte</i>; ask advice of the portly Louis, -and do not disdain his counsel. In cookery as in love much confidence is -necessary.</p> - -<p>Always ask for the wine list, <i>la carte des vins</i>, even if you end by -selecting <i>vin ordinaire</i>. The richest people in the land drink <i>vin -ordinaire</i> with their dinner, and dilute it with simple water. The -traveller, therefore, need not fear to do likewise even in the most -gorgeous restaurants. Champagne is not much drunk by French <i>gourmets</i>, -and such champagnes as the Paris restaurants keep is sweeter than our -people generally like. To the connoisseur in champagne I would say, “Do -not drink champagne in France, for the best <i>crûs</i> are to be found in -England and Russia.” If you desire fine red or white wines you will find -the nomenclature and the prices on the list; choose your Beaune, Pomard, -Volnay, Nuits, or Moulin à Vent, your Tavel, Tonnerre, or Chambertin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> -according to your taste and purse; consult confidentially with the -butler, and mind that you always address him as <i>sommelier</i>, and not -<i>garçon</i>. The <i>sommelier</i> is inferior to the <i>garçon</i> in the hierarchy -of table service, as you will see from his more humble and respectful -demeanor.</p> - -<p>Ask for <i>l’addition</i>, and not either <i>la carte</i> or <i>la note</i>, which -savours of provincialism. Verify your change rapidly, and see that no -pieces lurk on the plate beneath the bill. Be liberal towards the -waiter, for it is the <i>pourboire</i> that secures you a smile when you -arrive and a smile when you leave, a helping hand when you are -struggling into your overcoat, obliging and ready service, and the -appearance, nay, even the reality of friendship. In the three categories -of restaurants mentioned above do not give the waiter less than fifty -centimes, however modest your bill, and the more delicate and -satisfactory your dinner, the more liberal let your <i>pourboire</i> be, -ranging from one franc up to five, calculated generally at the rate of -five per cent. on the total of your bill.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_021.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_021_sml.jpg" width="126" height="120" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_ANGLO-AMERICAN_BANKING_CO" id="THE_ANGLO-AMERICAN_BANKING_CO"></a>THE ANGLO-AMERICAN BANKING CO.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>When Americans have the facilities to execute a good idea they always -possess the energy and the boldness to execute it in a fitting way. Thus -instead of going into small quarters in an out of the way location, the -Anglo-American Banking Company of Paris selected a large and imposing -building, fronting on two broad streets. Then with a liberal outlay of -money they proceeded to fit up the different floors in luxurious style. -The site, on the corner of Chaussée d’Antin and Rue Meyerbeer, half a -block from the Grand Opéera, a step from the Grand Hotel, and near some -of the leading boulevards, is at once choice, central and accessible.</p> - -<p>The ground floor of the building, where money is exchanged and where -letters of credit are cashed, is roomy and has a solid and business-like -appearance, while the upper floors are furnished with an eye to -convenience, comfort and beauty. It is here, on this second floor, where -there are tastefully furnished rooms for ladies, where desks are at hand -for clients to conduct their correspondence, and where the leading -American, English and French papers are kept on file in charge of a -prompt-serving and careful attendant.</p> - -<p>The bank is now established on a firm basis; it has the confidence of -the French people, and it promises to become an “institution” in Paris. -It is convenient to keep a small account at the bank, drawing checks -against it in making purchases in Paris. But the house can be used for -any and every legitimate banking purpose, and Americans find it very -useful as a place where their letters may be addressed, where their -letters of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> credit are cashed and where they may meet friends. It has -some of the features of a club, and although only established a few -years is now quite a popular rendezvous for Americans. The -Anglo-American bank itself issues letters of credit payable all over the -world.</p> - -<p>The officers of the American Banking Company are S. J. Gorman, of New -York, president; J. L. Carr, vice-president; J. H. Hobson, of New York, -general manager; Edmond Huerstel, secretary. Cable address, Anabaco, -Paris.</p> - -<h2><a name="AU_BON_MARCHE" id="AU_BON_MARCHE"></a>AU BON MARCHÉ.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Everybody has heard of, and all who have been to Paris have visited Au -Bon Marché, world-renowned of dry goods establishments. This great -emporium was practically founded by Jacques-Aristide Boucicaut, who, -beginning life in a small way in the dry goods business, became partner, -and finally sole owner of the Bon Marché. Once above the rank of -ordinary employee, he undertook to improve the moral and material -condition of his fellow workmen. He inaugurated free classes in the arts -and sciences, language, music, etc., and established a provident fund -for long service in the establishment, supplied his employees with free -medical attendance, and in many other forms, in addition to large -outside charities and good works, evidenced more than enough of the -spirit to entitle him to the appellation of philanthropist. At his death -in 1877, the annual returns from his business exceeded sixteen millions -of dollars. After his death his good works were continued by his widow, -who, with an enormous fortune at her command, dispensed it in extended -and elaborate charities, establishing the system of sharing of profits -among her employees, creating a retiring pension<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> fund, erecting and -maintaining hospitals, and at her death disposing of millions of francs -to churches, colleges, and other public institutions.</p> - -<p>Mme. Boucicaut died ten years after her husband, but the Bon Marché -still continues under the original plan and system of its founder. There -are three thousand six hundred employees, and all the unmarried -employees of the establishment board on the premises. For the proper -conduct of such a business the system of course must be perfect, near as -may be. Rules and regulations are set forth and strictly adhered to. It -is expressly provided that the food shall be wholesome and abundant. A -doctor is attached to the establishment who may be consulted by the -employees free of charge. Any employee called for military service can, -at its expiration, resume his situation. No fines are inflicted under -any circumstances.</p> - -<p>The Bon Marché forwards to any part of the globe all goods bought at the -establishment, and to nearly all the countries of Europe, including -Great Britain, it will forward free of charge for carriage any purchase -to the amount of twenty-five francs (five dollars). A pretty souvenir -volume is issued by the Bon Marché. It contains a useful indicator map -of Paris, and a deal of interesting information about the great -metropolis. It may be obtained free upon application by postal card. -Address simply, Au Bon Marché, Paris.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_022.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_022_sml.jpg" width="89" height="88" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span></p> - -<h2> -<a href="images/ill_023.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_023_sml.jpg" width="209" height="142" alt="THE DE SOTO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE DE SOTO.</span> -<br /><br /> -SAVANNAH, GEORGIA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The city of Savannah, with its balmy air, its far famed Bonaventure -Cemetery, its pretty parks, broad streets and many natural attractions -(acknowledged to be one of the most attractive Southern cities), was -long avoided by many pleasure tourists, because it had no hotel worthy -of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and doing a business of -over one hundred and thirty millions of dollars annually.</p> - -<p>Savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world—New Orleans excepted. -Savannah has deep water and good docks. Sometimes as many as thirty -English ships are in this port at the same time. They take cotton direct -to foreign ports. Savannah is easily approached from North and South: -presently it is to have communication with the west—direct from Kansas -City. When these and other contemplated improvements are made, Savannah -expects to experience an era of great prosperity. It is predicted that -the city will double its population in the next ten years.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span></p> - -<p>Anyone who doubts that Savannah is steadily moving forward in prosperity -has only to take a glimpse at the tax returns made to the city treasurer -for 1891, to have the doubt quickly dispelled. In 1890, the returns of -personal property footed up $9,948,048, and in 1891 they were -considerably over $10,000,000, the increase being about $500,000. The -banks alone in ’91 made returns of $506,000 in excess of 1890. This -shows that there is a great demand for banking institutions. Real estate -has increased $1,300,000.</p> - -<p>Such being the present condition and future prospects of Savannah, it -was time that some movement were made for the better entertainment of -visitors, so at last the citizens put their heads together and concluded -that no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions, the climax of -success is only capped by railway facilities and first class hotels.</p> - -<p>Mr. H. B. Plant, head of the Plant System, furnished the railway -facilities, and now the citizens of Savannah have supplied the hotel. -They formed a stock company, subscribed a million of dollars and opened -the De Soto, two years ago, which proved to be exteriorly one of the -handsomest houses in this country, if not in the world, and interiorly -one of the best appointed—in keeping with the American idea.</p> - -<p>Savannah never had a habit of going across the seas for hotel names. It -boasts of no Victoria, no Buckingham, no Imperial, but it has a Screven, -named after a prominent Georgia family; a Pulaski, named for a military -hero, and now a De Soto, in honor of the discoverer of the Mississippi -river. Savannah is nothing if not patriotic. It has a Monterey square, a -Forsyth park, and among its monuments are the noble columns erected to -perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes—Jasper, Green and -Pulaski.</p> - -<p>The De Soto cost a round million of dollars. It occupies, but does not -literally “cover, an entire block of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span> ground,” as the writer of the -little descriptive pamphlet has it. The house is built in the form of a -hollow square, with entrances on three sides. This plan of construction -was adopted to leave a large open court in the centre, thus securing an -ample supply of light and air; and the plan has succeeded to perfection.</p> - -<p>The dining-room, which seats nearly four hundred guests, has air and -light its full length, on both sides. Some of the bedroom doors, instead -of wooden panels, have panels of ground glass to let light into the -halls. The bedroom in which these lines are written is fifteen feet -square, not counting a deep recess for the windows, of which there are -two, each measuring seven feet six by four feet six. There is also a -transom over the door. To such an extent has this love of light been -carried that even the elevator, instead of being built with solid sides, -has sides of strong, open wire work, through which light and air stream -freely.</p> - -<p>The interior, while being on a broad, liberal, yes, a luxurious scale, -has no striking novelties. It is modelled after the style of the large -modern American hotels of the first-class. There is a large and splendid -“office” with reading-room, smoking-room, writing-room, and small -parlors branching off; there are open fires and all the etceteras of -convenience and luxury; the whole ground floor is marble-tiled, the -corridors are ten feet wide and richly carpeted; they lead on each side -to an inviting veranda; there is pure water from an artesian well and -the sanitary arrangements are said to be scientifically correct.</p> - -<p>The parlor, with its onyx tables, its gold-framed chairs, delicate -carpets, its richly-embossed furniture covering, its mirrors, electric -lights and the light-colored walls minus anything that suggests a work -of art, is, to my mind, rather cold and stiff. I prefer the home-like -drawing-room of the Imperial Hotel in Aberdeen, Scotland, with its -profusion of fresh flowers, its cabinets and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> pretty things, or say, the -drawing-room of the Langham Hotel, London, rich and pleasing in subdued, -dark colors; but the De Soto is an American hotel, it is kept after the -American methods, and without doubt the parlor suits to perfection those -for whom it is furnished—then why should anybody criticise its -decorations?</p> - -<p>But the exterior with its novel and beautiful construction, a -combination of architectural styles forming a very pleasing whole, -commands instant admiration. There are towers, turrets, arched -entrances, Queen Anne windows, fountains and a number of overhanging -red-tiled roofs through which waterspouts project in picturesque -fashion. The walls are of brick in two different colors with terra cotta -trimmings, railings and ornaments of black iron. All of these materials -and colors are used with skill and the very best taste, making an -artistic combination which is remarkably pleasing. Then the graceful -palm trees here and there give the surroundings a tropical appearance -and serve to add to the beautiful picture.</p> - -<p>The site of the De Soto was well chosen. All of the four streets on -which it is built being wide, ample opportunity is afforded to admire -from a distance its lines of beauty. Its main front is on a very wide -street, Liberty street, probably not quite so broad as Unter den Linden -in Berlin, nor has it the grand palaces of that renowned German street; -but Liberty street is neat, clean and kept in good order, which is more -than can be said of Unter den Linden. The sidewalks are of smooth-faced -red brick; between them and the roadway on either side there is a row of -trees. There is another row of trees, also a car track, in the middle of -the street, and on either side of the track again there is an asphalt -drive for carriages. There is abundant space, and although it lacks the -solid buildings of larger cities, the street itself is not lacking in -attractions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span></p> - -<p>Within five minutes’ walk of the house is Forsyth park, with its acres -of forest trees, and plenty of japonicas and roses in full bloom at this -writing, January 26. In the centre of this park there is a handsome -fountain, modeled after the grand fountain in the Place de la Concorde, -Paris. It is a mistake and a pity to half hide it behind japonica trees -and rose bushes, from six to eight feet high.</p> - -<p>It is very enjoyable to sit in any of Savannah’s pretty parks these -days, say between noon and four o’clock. There is no danger of taking -nor of feeling cold. At night and in the early morn the air is cool (36 -to 42 degrees), but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy—anywhere from -56 to 76 degrees. It is an old habit of mine to carry a thermometer in -my satchel, so I am not dependent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay -for my facts and figures concerning the temperature. Frost is rarely -seen in Savannah, and they never get a sight of snow unless some of the -“beautiful” article should remain on the car roofs of trains coming from -the North.</p> - -<p>The De Soto can accommodate four hundred guests, and besides, the -dining-room and the smaller “early breakfast-room” on the main floor, -there is a banqueting hall on the first floor in which two hundred -guests can sit down comfortably. A novel feature for a hotel is a -gymnasium, on the sixth floor, and above this, at the very summit, there -is a large “Solarium,” fitted up with chairs, tables and lounges. Here -you can sit, bask in the sun, and, as Walt Whitman says, “loaf and -invite your soul.” In this elevated position you get a magnificent view -of Savannah and the surrounding country—as far east as the Tybee coast, -twenty miles distant.</p> - -<p>There are in all three hundred and thirty-eight bedrooms, forty parlors -and sixty bath-rooms in the house, affording many choice suites for -families. There are no dark rooms nor inner rooms; all have a street -view,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> a park view, or look out upon the court-yard. Every room has a -wardrobe built in the wall, and this is covered by a tasteful portière. -All the carpets and draperies, by the way, came from W. & J. Sloane, and -the electroliers and gasoliers were supplied by Archer, Pancoast & Co., -both leading New York houses in their respective branches.</p> - -<p>A band of twelve pieces (Cobb’s Savannah Band) performs excellent music -in an alcove near the dining-room during the luncheon and dinner hours.</p> - -<p>The house has been leased for fifteen years by Watson & Powers, who have -had long experience in Charleston and other hotels. They kept the -Pulaski House here, as a colored driver told me in answer to a question, -“a right smart time,” which still leaves the number of years rather -indefinite. The same gentleman and brother, who drive carriages for the -house, and who drove me through Bonaventure Cemetery, said that the fire -of two years ago, which burned for two days, destroyed the “<span class="lftspc">‘</span>Sonic -Hall.” He also volunteered this piece of intelligence: “Der Pulaski -House is makin’ a very big condition,” which I translated to mean -addition. My esteemed friend, Mr. Marcus Wight and his charming wife, of -Lowell, Mass., were our travelling companions for that day, and their -delightful company enhanced the interest and the enjoyment of the drive.</p> - -<p>If you desire to see a hotel which contains all the latest and best -American ideas, and, unlike the hotels of Europe, combines them into a -perfect system, telegraph for rooms to the De Soto. It is advisable to -take it in, as a resting place, between New York and Florida, or vice -versa.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>P. S.—This is called a cold winter in Savannah, yet at six A.M., -Thursday, January 29, the thermometer marked sixty degrees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THOMASVILLE_GEORGIA" id="THOMASVILLE_GEORGIA"></a>THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Time, eleven A.M., February 1.—Your correspondent is seated at his -bedroom window; there are two large windows in the room, and both are -wide open. The apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot -ceiling; it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature in it is -seventy-two degrees. This is not said from hearsay, nor is the record -taken from a hotel thermometer, which may be unreliable, but from a -portable thermometer of my own.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">When the Place was Settled.</span>—People ask, “How old is Thomasville: when -was it first settled?” The writer can answer this question because he -had the good fortune to be presented to no less a personage than Mrs. M. -A. Bower, a most charming woman to look at and to converse with, who is -proud of her fifty-six years, but whom you would judge to be at least -ten years younger. Mrs. Bower was the first white child born in -Thomasville, and in the first real house erected in the place. It stood -on the present site of the Mitchell House. Mrs. Bower is the daughter of -Colonel and Mrs. Edward Remington who came here from Pawtuxet, R. I., in -the year 1828. Set it down for a fact then that Thomasville is three -score years old.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Location.</span>—Thomasville, the capital of Thomas county (this is not from a -gazetteer, please believe), stands three hundred and thirty feet above -sea level, being on the highest ground between Macon and the Gulf of -Mexico, in the Uplands of Georgia. It is two hundred miles from the -Atlantic, sixty miles from the Gulf of Mexico as the bird flies, twelve -miles from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> Florida State line, a thirty-three-mile drive from -Tallahassee, and is reached from Jacksonville at the South or from -Savannah coming from the North in a few hours by way of Waycross or -Jesup, two places not particularly attractive to the tourist but quite -useful as way stations, affording junctions for several lines of -railroad.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Health and Pleasure.</span>—Thomasville was at one time simply a health -resort: people with consumption or other lung or throat diseases came -here for relief and they found it. They, the sickly people, still come -to get well; but beside being a health resort it is now also a place for -pleasure. Fashion has set its seal on Thomasville. New York and Boston -are well represented among the visitors, but the West especially favors -Thomasville, and St. Paul, for its size, sends more people probably than -any other city. A number of St. Paul citizens have cottages here and -have set up fine establishments. Ladies dress for the morning ride or -drive; they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for the evening -dance. Ladies at the hotels exchange visits with the cottagers, also -with the townspeople, the permanent residents giving strangers a warm, -Southern welcome.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Features of the Town.</span>—To-day Thomasville has churches of all -denominations (including a Jewish place of worship), two hotels far -superior to any between Baltimore and Jacksonville, unless exception be -made of the new Oglethorpe at Brunswick; a number of smaller hotels, -numerous boarding houses, two daily newspapers, several good private -schools, a flourishing college for girls and one for the other sex, a -railway direct to the town—and five thousand inhabitants. The boys’ -college is a branch of the State University and has at present two -hundred and fifty pupils. The other institution, called “Young’s Female -College,” was endowed by a Georgian, and the charge for tuition is so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span> -low as to be nominal, ten dollars per year to each pupil. So the -religiously inclined have ample opportunity to worship at their -particular shrine, and the educational advantages of Thomasville are -good.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Nature’s Gifts.</span>—The reputation of this place was gained by its dry and -balmy atmosphere, its even temperature, its health-giving pine forests -and by its freedom from cold or sudden changes. The United States Signal -Service report shows that the average winter temperature is about -fifty-five degrees, and the average temperature last July, the hottest -month here, was eighty-two degrees. While the winter days are warm the -mornings and nights are pleasantly cool, and it never snows here. Once -during the past fourteen years they did have a flurry of snow. It -happened on a Sunday and the churches remained empty; so interested were -the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they neglected the church and -all took to snowballing. You need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor -wear, except, perhaps, for an evening drive, or for rainy days; but an -umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the sun is -indispensable. I am speaking of needing such an article at the present -time, February 1.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Piney Woods Oak.</span>—To those coming from the North the sight of the -trees in full leaf is as agreeable as it is strange. The pine, live-oak, -hemlock and holly all have their branches thickly covered. There is a -gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the Piney Woods Hotel whose -spreading branches measure sixty feet across. There is still a larger -one in the town, which people travel miles to see. It spreads ninety -feet across. But beauty does not always consist in bigness. The Piney -Woods oak is both beautiful and big, but its symmetrical beauty is its -main attraction. Is it too warm on the hotel porch? Are the sun’s rays -too fierce? Cross over the road, fifty yards distant, and seek a -comfortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> the pines, in -what is popularly termed “Yankee Paradise,” but known more correctly as -Paradise Park. It includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives. -There is no ice to make your step unsteady, but the needles of the pines -render the paths rather slippery.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">When to Come.</span>—You can pick violets in the open air and pluck in the -fields a small bouquet of daisies at this writing, but to see -Thomasville at its best, I am told that you must come a little later -than this, when the grass is all green. You can then pluck wild roses to -your heart’s content. Then the pear orchards will be in full bloom, and -the dogwood blossoms are a sight to behold. I have been here only three -days and have seen no rain, but the soil is sandy and one can readily -believe what enthusiasts say, that an hour or two after a long and heavy -rain walking is again pleasant, the rain having percolated through the -ground, leaving the surface perfectly dry, if not hard. And there is -seemingly no end of lovely walks. You get out of the town in five -minutes, and if you are bent on pedestrian exercise, and have an eye for -beautiful scenes, turn your steps in any direction and you will make no -mistake.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">What to Bring.</span>—If the ladies of your party are equestriennes, by all -means let them bring their riding habits with them: everybody rides. -Driving, too, is largely indulged in, the roads being hard, smooth and -unusually wide. They extend for miles and miles through the pine woods, -and their picturesque beauty you will please imagine; it is not easy to -describe it without using more adjectives than I have at my command en -route. To sportsmen let me say, do not come without your dog and gun or -you will never forget nor forgive the error. Wild turkeys abound, there -are snipe in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice. You see them on -the road while driving, and the crack of the rifle is heard almost -constantly. Quail on toast is a regular dish at the hotels at least once -a day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Negro and his Works.</span>—Without desiring to attack political problems, -to raise dead issues or to discuss questions that have long since been -answered, one cannot resist the temptation to obtain information on the -result of the emancipation proclamation, for although it is over a -quarter of a century old the subject yet has great interest for this -country, and for other countries also, for that matter. Here is a -statement of facts and figures in condensed, nutshell form upon which -chapters and books might be written—the colored population of Georgia -pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve millions of dollars, the -realty being estimated at about one half its actual value, and their -personal property is estimated at about six millions of dollars. There -are instances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves to their -former owners, some of the blacks still serving their white masters. -Among the servants of Mrs. M. A. Bower, proprietor of the Piney Woods -Hotel, are two who formerly served this same “master,” one of them being -the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel. Negroes say that the whites and -work do not agree. Possibly not; they are unaccustomed to labor hard in -this section, and on the other hand whites claim that the colored are by -nature more fitted for work in such a climate. Be that as it may, it is -certain that the colored people of the South are not over fond of work, -either: you cannot depend upon their working regularly. So soon as they -can put enough by to keep them in cracked wheat or hominy and a little -tobacco the colored laborers are likely to throw up a job, and are not -over particular if they occasionally leave an employer in the lurch. If -you are a new settler and are building a house, for instance, they will -have no compunction about leaving you some fine morning, or some wet -afternoon, before your house is roofed in. Of clothing for warmth they -need little, and the weather never being severe their log cabins or pine -huts need not be very tight: if<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> they shed the rain that is all that is -necessary for them.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Chain Gang.</span>—The jail at Thomasville was not near large enough until -a new plan of punishment was adopted. The colored roughs committed small -offences for the very purpose of getting into prison; in that way -obtaining food and shelter, and at the same time “doin’ nuffin.” Not so -now: the town council met and adopted the resolution that prisoners -should be made to work, and that is how the “chain gang” came into -existence. You will see gangs of colored men repairing the roads and -engaged in other public works on the highway. They wear a striped -uniform after the prevailing fashion at our State prisons. The two legs -of each man are held close enough together by iron chains to prevent the -action of running, but yet the chains afford him sufficient freedom to -move about and make himself useful with pick and shovel. It is a novel -sight for a stranger to meet one of these gangs on the road, and the -clank of the locked iron links has a strange and weird sound. To their -credit be it said, the men are ashamed of their public disgrace, and the -Thomasville prison is now large enough to hold all the applicants for -admission. Making the negro work and making him a public show have had -good effect. Such a plan is of course not feasible for cities, but it -might be adopted with a degree of success in thinly populated districts -of Northern States. Tramps give Thomasville a wide berth. If one of the -genus unwittingly wanders that way he is given his choice: he must leave -at once or join the chain gang and work for thirty days.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Upland Products.</span>—Cotton is still king in the South, and Georgia -produces its full share, but Thomas county is also noted for oats. More -oats are produced in Thomas county than in any other county in the -United States. This I have from one of the prominent citizens of the -town, whose information is as extensive as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> manner of imparting his -knowledge is agreeable. If you come to Thomasville try to meet Dr. -Bower. He practices his profession no longer, being interested in many -large enterprises. He can give you more interesting information -concerning these parts than probably any other person hereabouts. But -you must allow a little for Dr. Bower’s enthusiasm. He is apt to look at -Thomasville and Thomas county through a rose-colored glass. From Dr. -Bower your correspondent learned, among other things, that the Le Conte -pear, which grows in such profusion here and in Florida, was brought to -this country from China about fifty years ago, and propagated by -Commodore Le Conte, a Georgian of French descent. It does not equal the -Bartlett in flavor, but its skin is tougher, and it bears transportation -better. You may see orchards containing thousands of trees, and the -trees average a production of twelve to fifteen bushels. Some trees are -said to yield as many as thirty-five bushels. They boast here of the -largest pear orchard in the world—two hundred and twenty-five acres. -Last year twenty-five thousand crates of pears were shipped from -Thomasville to cities in the North and West. Some found their way to the -New England summer resorts, and were received with favor. Still, from -all I can learn, while the North has its Bartlett, it need not envy the -South its Le Conte.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Poor Kine.</span>—It is conceded that they raise here in abundance cotton, -oats and pears, and that pine trees, roses, magnolias, quail, figs, and -other good things grow in profusion, but, on the other hand, the live -stock is very poor indeed and meats must come all the way from New York -if people demand meat that is good and nutritious. That is where all the -meat comes from which is consumed at the hotels. It almost makes your -heart ache to see the poor, weak oxen that are forced to work, and the -thin, bony cows that must yield their milk. It may be different in -summer time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> when the grass is rich, but the cattle seem to be very -poorly fed now, or not fed at all. They are allowed to roam freely about -the streets and byways of the town, and pick up, by day or night, what -they can find.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Winn Farm.</span>—An exception to this rule must be made in favor of Winn -Farm, a tract of eighteen hundred acres, owned by F. J. Winn, several -hundred acres of which are under cultivation. The stock there looks -better than the animals you see in Thomasville proper, and for which you -have nothing but sympathy. They make good wine, too, at Winn Farm, and -it is offered in hospitable quantities from the hand of an attractive, -cultivated woman, the presiding genius of the place, Mrs. F. J. Winn. -The luscious, juicy oranges which are put on the tables of the Piney -Woods Hotel in such liberal measure, come from the grove on Indian -River, Florida, owned and cultivated by Dr. Bower. The grove contains -four or five thousand orange trees in bearing.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Hotels.</span>—There is a standing joke about certain Southern cities -where there are only two hotels, that, whichever one you select, you -will wish that you had chosen the other. Although the hotels south of -the line have greatly improved of late years, the old joke will still -apply in certain towns and cities. Not so, however, at Thomasville. -There are only two hotels here known to fame, and you will make no -mistake if you select either. It is a matter of surprise to find two -such hotels in such a comparatively small town. The Mitchell House and -the Piney Woods Hotel (I take them alphabetically) are both large, new, -handsomely furnished and perfectly appointed houses, containing all the -modern improvements, and erected with strict regard for the laws of -sanitation. The Mitchell House is an imposing solid brick structure, -four stories high, two hundred feet square, with a cultivated park of -two acres<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> sweeping before its front piazza. This little park is -reserved for the hotel guests and their friends.</p> - -<p>The Piney Woods Hotel is within gun-shot distance of the Mitchell House, -on the same street, with a front measuring three hundred and fifty feet, -the other side overlooking Paradise Park, of which I have already -spoken. The Piney Woods stands, as it were, and as its name might -indicate, on the very edge of the pine forests, and yet it is only a -five minutes’ walk from the post-office and a ten minutes’ drive from -the depot. The pamphlet issued by the proprietor tells you that “the -Piney Woods is modelled similar to the Grand Union Hotel, at Saratoga -Springs,” but this is a mistake of the compiler of the work, and is no -compliment at all to the house under consideration—which is far more -pleasing to the eye, exteriorly, than the Grand Union at Saratoga. The -Piney Woods is built after plans of J. A. Woods, a New York architect, -who planned the new Grand Hotel <i>in the Catskill Mountains</i>, and with -its wide and lofty verandas, its projecting towers, its pretty corners -here and there, is a facsimile on a somewhat smaller scale of that -favorite and beautiful house. Any one who has seen the hotel on the line -of the Ulster and Delaware Railway, can picture to himself the Piney -Woods Hotel at Thomasville. The late Captain Gillette, who kept the -Mountain Hotel, kept this one also for years. William E. Davies is now -the manager of the Piney Woods.</p> - -<p>Each hotel, the Mitchell House and the Piney Woods, will accommodate -nearly three hundred guests.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Best Route.</span>—The Atlantic Coast Line, called “the short route to -Florida,” is by all odds the best way to reach Thomasville from the -Eastern States and from New York. The vestibule train, “the Florida -special” of the Pennsylvania Railroad, which traverses this route, is -the quickest and most luxurious train, with its dining-room car, library -car, etc., but this only<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> leaves New York on certain days of the week, -and you must apply for seats a long time ahead, and then you may not get -them. The ordinary trains, with Pullman sleepers, are good enough for -the majority of travellers, and they afford people opportunity to stop -over and see the cities en route—Washington, Richmond, Wilmington, N. -C., Charleston and Savannah. Or, if you prefer, you may come direct from -New York, in about thirty-two hours, to Waycross, Ga., where there is -connection for Thomasville, distant four hours. But if you “stop over,” -you must be prepared to travel in ordinary coaches between the Southern -cities; parlor cars are not attached to local trains. It would help -Thomasville materially if the Savannah, Western and Florida Road -(everybody in this section calls it “the S. F. & W.”) were to run a -quick train with a parlor car to meet the Florida special. The return -would not be great at first, but it would prove profitable to the road -ultimately. Washington, D. C., seems to be especially favored: the -Atlantic Coast Line runs a Pullman buffet sleeping car for Washington -passengers direct to Thomasville. Strangers and tourists make it a point -to go to the stations to see the Pennsylvania vestibule train at -different points of the road, and the colored folk stand and stare at -the beautiful appointments with eyes and mouth wide open. “Only God’s -people,” remarked one surprised darkey, “can ride in them carriages.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_024.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_024_sml.jpg" width="78" height="66" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="A_NEW_SOUTHERN_RESORT" id="A_NEW_SOUTHERN_RESORT"></a>A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>If you tell people in New York that you are “going to Brunswick for the -winter,” they will probably look at you with surprise; some will say, -“Do you mean New Brunswick?” having in mind New Brunswick, N.J.; while -others will say, “Brunswick; where is Brunswick, in what State? I never -heard of it.” Well, new as Brunswick may appear to the majority, it is -an old place, having been settled and laid out in the year 1763.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Where is Brunswick?</span>—Brunswick is in the Southeastern part of Georgia, -not far from the Florida border, sixty miles below Savannah, seventy -miles north of Jacksonville. The city covers an area of two miles -square, and is handsomely laid out, the whole adorned by some of the -most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be found in the South. -It is situated on a small peninsula jutting out into the sea, surrounded -on three sides by salt water, but protected from the severity of the -ocean winds by outlying islands. Brunswick is only eight miles from the -sea and there are no fresh water streams or swamps within many miles to -breed malaria, the air being constantly renewed and vivified by the -health-bearing breezes of the ocean, that render it, as official -statistics show, one of the healthiest cities in the Union.</p> - -<p>Among its natural advantages are its climate, uniform and mild in -winter, its geographical position being but little north of St. -Augustine, ice being seldom seen, and snow rarely, if ever; its forests -of pine, palm and moss-covered oak, its healthy soil, pure water, -semi-tropical foliage and plants, the magnificent drives, and last, but -by no means least, its superior water facilities,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> having one of the -finest harbors in the South Atlantic. As to the trees: I have stood -under the far-famed old oaks of England, I have seen the moss-covered -trees of Bonaventure, of which all Savannah proudly boasts, and admired -the great oak at Thomasville, whose branches measure ninety feet across; -but there is an oak here which belittles them all for age, strength and -size. Under the “Lovers’ Oak” at Brunswick it is said that one hundred -teams can find shelter from the sun’s rays. It is called Lovers’ Oak -because a marriage was once performed under it, several hundred -witnesses being present at the open air ceremony.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Jekyl and Other Islands.</span>—There are a number of beautiful islands near -here which are fertile almost beyond one’s imagination. Everybody has -heard of Jekyl Island, and all true sportsmen know it. It is famous as -the location of one of the finest club-houses in the country, the island -being a paradise for the sportsman and fisherman. It is literally full -of game; deer, wild turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors -are sure of good sport. Being a natural game preserve, upon which the -general public have not been permitted to hunt, the increase has been -rapid and the supply practically inexhaustible. The club-house, seen -from the river, is a noble structure. Then there is St. Simon’s Island, -which lies off the coast at a distance of seven miles from Brunswick, -and is noted for the wonderful fertility of its soil. It excels -especially in fruits—oranges, peaches, figs, bananas, olives, lemons, -limes and pecans, growing in great profusion. The climate is almost -perfection. Ice is seldom seen, and snow has been seen here but once -within the present century,</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Doctor’s Certificate.</span>—Brunswick’s peninsular location, almost -surrounded by salt water, with immense pine forests on the north, -extending hundreds of miles into the interior, conduces to a state of -healthfulness excelled by no other place of its population in the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span> -South. Dr. H. Buford, Health Officer of the City of Brunswick, makes the -following official statement: “The result of my observation and -experience as a practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent -thereto, during a residence of seven years, proves that our mortuary -statistics show a minimum death rate—Poughkeepsie, N. Y., not excepted. -During an active practice of seven years I cannot record a single case -of scarlet fever or diphtheria. Hay fever and asthma are unknown here.”</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Mistake of Congress.</span>—Brunswick is a century and a quarter old, but it -went along lazily and slowly, like many other Southern towns and -villages, and the war somewhat retarded its progress. Nor was it helped -by a committee from Congress which, some years after the war, took a -cruise along the Atlantic coast to examine the facilities of our -seaports. Congress has not earned its peculiar reputation without -deserving it. This committee may have included members who were learned -in the law, or who knew how to hoe potatoes, but of harbor advantages -and the requirements of ships they must have been innocently ignorant. -They reported that “the harbor of Brunswick was twelve feet deep.” This -went abroad and ships went elsewhere. How near to the truth came this -report may be judged by one instance. On Friday, February 3, 1888, the -English steamer, the Port Augusta, cleared this port drawing twenty feet -of water and carrying 6,559 bales of cotton, weighing over three -millions of pounds and valued at $300,000. It was the largest cargo ever -cleared from a South Atlantic port, and ships drawing <i>twenty-four feet -of water</i> enter and leave here without the slightest danger of touching -bottom. So much for the congressional report. That the shipping -facilities of Brunswick are becoming known may be judged also from the -following facts and figures: During the whole month of February, 1887, -the exports of cotton, naval stores and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> lumber amounted to $78,000 -while for only the <i>first five days</i> of Feb., 1888, the exports amounted -to over $300,000. These figures are given on official authority from the -collector of the port. Are more significant statements needed to show -the marvellous advance and improvement of this place? Here they are—the -exports in the year 1886 amounted to less than a million dollars; in -1887 they footed up over two and a quarter millions. The imports of 1886 -were less than $5,000, the imports of 1887, $48,000.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A City by the Sea.</span>—How has all this seeming prosperity and increase of -business on the water affected the land? Well, in 1884 the population of -Brunswick was 3,000, four years later it was 8,000; the increase of -taxable property was thirty-three per cent, greater in ’87 than ’86; the -comptroller of the State says that this county (Glynn) has made for the -last twelve months a larger pro rata increase than any other county in -the State of Georgia, for eight years ago there was not a brick building -in the place; now there are blocks and blocks of brick stores and fine -dwellings; increase in the value of the land is almost fabulous, and -there is a new brick hotel here, “the Oglethorpe,” which cost with -furniture, $160,000, the equal of which for site and style cannot be -found between Washington, D.C., and St. Augustine, Fla.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Oglethorpe.</span>—The new hotel is an evidence of and in keeping with the -new order of things. The location of the building is choice—on the -highest ground in Brunswick, affording fine views and rare sanitary -facilities. The house is not merely considered to be, but is fire-proof. -So perfect is the protection against fire that the company insuring the -property reduced the usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the -character of the building and the excellence of the fire system adopted. -The Oglethorpe stands on the principal street, near the railway depot -and steamboat wharf, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> a plot of ground about three hundred feet -square, the main building having three stories and being two hundred and -sixty-seven feet long, with wings running back one hundred and forty -feet. It is the largest building in the place, and with its graceful -round brick towers at each corner, and its turrets and spires jutting -through the roof, here and there, it is the most prominent object you -see as you approach Brunswick from any direction, either by land or -water. The Oglethorpe, being new, is the latest exponent of all that is -best and most approved in modern hotel building, and of course has all -the “modern improvements.” The drawing-room is a grand apartment, -reminding you of the parlor of the United States at Saratoga; the -dining-room is lighted from three sides, and seats three hundred -persons; the main floor, the entrance, office and lower hall are tiled -with Georgia marble in beautiful colors, and there is a covered porch -for promenading which reaches up to the second story. It is two hundred -and forty feet long, and from twenty to twenty-five feet wide.</p> - -<p>The bedrooms of the Oglethorpe are larger, as a rule, than those of most -hotels. Even the “small rooms” connecting with the suites are twenty -feet long by eleven wide, and have two windows, each seven feet high by -three feet wide. The “tower” rooms, with their open fire-places, carved -wooden mantels, tiled hearths, rich Moquette carpets, portières of -velours, and lace curtains on brass poles are as handsome as the -bedrooms of any other hotel that the writer has seen, and if the walls -and ceilings were artistically decorated and frescoed, the “tower” rooms -of the Oglethorpe probably might compare with those palatial bedrooms of -the Hotel Métropole in London. A peculiarity of the Oglethorpe is that -there are no back rooms; each one faces the street or overlooks the bay, -but a few hundred feet distant. Between the bay and the house the -grounds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> the hotel are attractively laid out. As to the table and -general management of the Oglethorpe, it is only necessary to say that -the manager is Warren Leland, Jr., a member of the celebrated Leland -family—a name long associated with some of the leading hotels in the -United States.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">En Route to and from Florida.</span>—Brunswick is reached by rail from the -North by the Atlantic Coast Line and the Savannah, Florida and Western -Railroad by way of Savannah and Waycross, Ga., and from Jacksonville, -Florida, by railway to Fernandina in one hour, and thence by steamboat -in four hours. The water route is very pleasant. The boats, if not -splendid specimens of naval architecture, are at least staunch and -comfortable. You take an inside route, hug the shore, pass many -beautiful islands and get glimpses of most picturesque scenes.</p> - -<p>Tourists contemplating a visit to Florida for health or pleasure do well -to break the journey at Waycross or Jessup, visit Brunswick and see the -charming country thereabouts. The run is made from Waycross to Brunswick -in three hours and ten minutes.</p> - -<p>The route Southward is from New York to Quantico, Va., over the -Pennsylvania tracks; from Richmond to Charleston via Atlantic Coast -Line; from Waycross to Brunswick by the Plant system. Leave New York -(Desbrosses or Cortlandt streets) at 9 P.M. or midnight—through car to -Waycross.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_025.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_025_sml.jpg" width="232" height="88" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="A_CUBAN_CITY_IN_THE_UNITED_STATES" id="A_CUBAN_CITY_IN_THE_UNITED_STATES"></a>A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STATES.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Key West</span>, February, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Key West, in Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Island), derived its name, so says -history, from the fact that the island was strewn with human bones. The -conquerors didn’t take time to bury the bones of the conquered. The -change, corruption Spaniards call it, from Cayo Hueso to Key West was -easy.</p> - -<p>The United States bought the island from Spain in 1816. The formation is -coral and it contains about two thousand acres. The Hon. C. B. -Pendleton, editor and proprietor of the <i>Equator-Democrat</i>, and a man of -culture who has served in the State Senate, showed me an island, or key, -as they call it in these parts, distant from Key West five miles, and -which he believed to be the most southerly point in the United States. -Another authority informed me that Cape Sable, distant from Key West -about sixty miles, is the most southerly point.</p> - -<p>To quote Editor Pendleton, Key West is distant from the tropical line -only thirteen miles. Doctors will differ; another authority gives it as -sixty miles. I am inclined to think that on the tropical question my -editorial brother is correct in his estimate, because Key West is only -distant from Cuba eighty or ninety miles.</p> - -<p>The climate is about the same as that of Havana. In the Cuban capital -the mercury never goes below sixty degrees; in Key West the lowest point -recorded is fifty-one.</p> - -<p>Key West is the ninth port of entry in the United States, collecting -more import duty than all the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> ports in the States of Florida and -Georgia and one-half of Alabama combined.</p> - -<p>In 1860 the population was about two thousand, one-quarter of whom were -colored; but in 1869, after the rebellion in Cuba, the population of the -island began to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand, and -they claim that it is the largest city in Florida.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are mixed, very much mixed—Cubans, negroes, Americans, -Chinese, etc. The negroes come from Nassau, Cuba and other places.</p> - -<p>Key West was bought of Spain, as before remarked; the island is nearer -Cuba than any other land, it is not in any sense American except that it -flies the American flag, and it seems to be now, to all intents and -purposes, a foreign place—a Spanish colony, as it once was. Spanish is -the prevailing language, and Cubans predominate. All the public notices -and handbills are printed in two languages, several newspapers are -printed in Spanish, and only one, the <i>Equator-Democrat</i>, in English. It -is difficult to make a purchase or to transact any business unless you -speak Spanish, and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars -who can understand you if addressed in English. The car drivers swear at -their patient, sadly abused mules in hard Spanish. All the American -residents and business men speak the prevailing tongue, or are learning -it as fast as they can, for without it they cannot so readily conduct -business.</p> - -<p>Speaking of the street cars, they are all open, of course, winter and -summer. In fact, there is never anything resembling northern winter -weather in Key West; light summer clothes and Panama hats are worn the -year round.</p> - -<p>But you are not obliged to patronize street cars. Riding in private -conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare than even in London, or in a -country town on the Continent. In London the smallest cab fare is one -shilling<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> (twenty-five cents); in Key West you can ride a short distance -for a dime, and a longer distance for fifteen cents. The conveyance is a -very light and very dirty wagonette on four wheels. The driver is as -dirty as his vehicle, and his horse resembles those poor skeletons which -are blindfolded and pushed into the arena at a Cuban bull fight.</p> - -<p>Such tropical fruits as the sugar apple, the guava, mango, the soft and -sweet sapadillo, thrive in Key West. The climate and salt atmosphere -combine to make it the home of the palm. There are many tall, slender -and beautiful cocoanut trees, some with their graceful leaves waving as -high as eighty feet in the air, making an interesting and pretty picture -against a cloudless sky.</p> - -<p>But the cultivation of the cocoanut in Key West might be made very -profitable as well as picturesque. At present there are comparatively -few of such trees; their cultivation ought to be encouraged. The tree -has no tap root, and will thrive on a thin soil. It comes into bearing -eight or ten years from the nut; and after that the fruit grows and -increases every month in the year. Like the orange tree, the older it -gets the more it bears. A bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for -than an orange grove, and the revenue therefrom is greater. It requires -no cultivation, and is as hardy in its section as the cabbage palmetto, -that grows everywhere in Florida. Besides, cocoanuts can be shipped in -any month of the year; they require no packing, no care in handling, and -they will bear transportation for thousands of miles. There is a good -market for green cocoanuts in these parts as well as for matured ones. -When the nut is fully grown, but green, it contains about two glasses of -clear juice, milk we call it in the North. It is considered a healthful -beverage in the tropics and sells per glass in the streets of Havana for -the equivalent of five cents.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span></p> - -<p>Nature has favored Key West with a perfect climate. It is surrounded by -the Gulf of Mexico, as blue and as beautiful as the famous Danube. -Nature in fact has done everything she could to make the place desirable -as a residence for man, but man has done little or nothing for himself, -thus far, and if the truth must be told, notwithstanding its favorable -natural conditions and its lovely surroundings, Key West is not yet a -desirable place to live in. It has no sanitary laws, for nothing -whatever has been done with a view to sanitation, and yet with the salt -ocean all around the little island, how easy it would be to make it -healthy and clean, for it is neither one nor the other. There is no such -thing as system, no sewerage whatever in the town excepting one iron -pipe which leads from one hotel, the Russell House, to the sea, and even -that one pipe is allowed to clog occasionally.</p> - -<p>A liberally illustrated and large edition of the <i>Equator-Democrat</i> was -issued in 1889, which presents a very rose-colored view of Key West. In -that paper I find that “the pleasant streets running at right angles are -as smooth and hard as adamant.” I am not certain that I am very well -acquainted with adamant, but I know that the streets of Key West are -unpaved and that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets I ever -saw. As I have lived in Baltimore, in New York and in New Orleans, my -testimony ought to be accepted on such a theme. I speak of Key West in -fine weather; what it must be in wet weather I don’t like to imagine. If -nothing but very deep ruts, holes and great gullies in the roadway -resemble adamant then is Key West adamantine beyond doubt.</p> - -<p>There is not a boot-black in the town; none is needed. Nobody thinks of -blacking his shoes; it would be absurd. I spoke on this point with a -young New Yorker who hails from the fashionable precincts of Madison -avenue. He is a business man who is liberal in the matter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span> of money, -usually dressy, and extremely neat in his person. He has been in Key -West six months, and in all that time not a brush has passed over his -shoes.</p> - -<p>I regret to differ with my learned and courteous friend, the editor of -the <i>Democrat</i>, on the subject of hotels. Let him speak for himself. He -says that “The Russell House, the leading hotel in the city, is second -to none in the State in accommodations.” Now I had an idea that St. -Augustine and Jacksonville and Tampa were in Florida, and that there -were such hotels “in the State” as the Ponce de Leon and The Cordova at -St. Augustine, and the new Tampa Bay Hotel at Tampa Bay, not to mention -a number of other first-class houses “in the State.”</p> - -<p>Directly opposite the Russell is the Duval House. You may never have -heard of it; it is not one-third the size of the Russell House. I know -nothing of the apartments of the Duval. for I investigated no further -than the dining-room, but that was enough to establish its good -reputation. It will be a long time before I forget how beautifully -garnished a dish they made at the Duval of a red snapper, and the -delicious flavor of their <i>omelette soufflée</i> remains with me still. The -Duval is presided over by a Cuban lady, Mrs. Bolio, who kept for years -one of the leading hotels in Havana. She is evidently a woman who knows -what good living is.</p> - -<p>Cigar-making is a very large and important industry in Key West. The -place was selected for cigar-making because the climate is suited to the -“curing” of tobacco in the leaf, and because it is near Havana. There is -something also in the name. Everybody does not know that this (Spanish) -island is United States territory, and some smokers if they see a “Key -West” label on a box of cigars believe, without stopping to think, that -they are smoking a foreign-made cigar. Now a Key West cigar if made from -Havana tobacco of fine quality has just as good a flavor as if it were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> -made in Cuba, but the Key West cigar can be sold at a lower price -because the import duty on cigars is much higher than the duty on the -raw material.</p> - -<p>Having the same climate as Havana, the best climate in the world for -tobacco curing, and the cigars being made by Cubans, who are the best -cigar-makers in the world, Key West turns out just as good cigars as can -be produced anywhere—provided always that tobacco of the first quality -is used. And the cigar need not consist entirely of Havana tobacco. A -cigar of choice flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos—Havana “filler” -and “binder,” with, say, a “Connecticut seed” or Sumatra wrapper.</p> - -<p>The manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided largely in building up -the business of Key West. One authority says that there are two hundred -factories, employing five thousand operatives, and transacting a -business amounting to seven millions of dollars annually. But this -report may be exaggerated. However, here are some more figures, and if -the reader is mathematically inclined he can draw his own conclusions: -Key West during 1890 turned out one hundred and forty millions of -cigars.</p> - -<p>There are very few Spanish or American cigarmakers in Key West; the -majority are Cubans, with a very small sprinkling of negroes. There are -so many factories and so many operatives that, although it is a -cigar-producing place, very few cigars indeed are sold at retail. -Everybody smokes, every one invites you to smoke; cigars are almost as -free as the air. It would be a paradise for a young dude who has a -slender purse and who is addicted to the weed.</p> - -<p>Upon the courteous invitation of P. Pohalski & Co., who have a branch in -Havana, with headquarters in Warren street, New York, I paid a visit to -their factory, which is one of the largest in Key West, and I was much -interested in what I saw. Pohalski & Co. erected their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> own factory, -upon their own ground, and it is one of the most imposing edifices in -Key West. They also built upon their own land a number of small houses -which they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure; for its size it -is quite a respectable colony.</p> - -<p>Although very large, employing several hundred hands, the factory is -orderly, exceedingly clean and neat, showing good government. Perfect -system reigns throughout the entire establishment. The first floor is -used for the business offices, for cases of tobacco and for the -“strippers;” the whole of the second floor is occupied by cigar makers, -and the third floor is used by the “packers,” also for curing leaf -tobacco and for storing cigars in boxes.</p> - -<p>A “stripper” is one who, with the dexter finger and thumb of the right -hand pulls the stem from the leaf while the leaf is damp, the leaf being -held in the left hand. It is done by a dexterous and quick movement, not -a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem. The most costly leaves, for -wrappers, are only entrusted to experienced operators. The strippers in -this factory are numbered by scores. They are all females, all Cubans, -and range in age from ten years old to women of fifty.</p> - -<p>It is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman with habits of -refinement, to see the older women, while at their work of stripping, -smoke long, thick cigars. They hold the cigar between their teeth and -seldom remove it, not even to talk. They are rough-looking cigars, -rolled into shape by the women themselves from the leaves they are -stripping.</p> - -<p>A more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar-making floor, above. -You will be surprised upon entering to see a man standing erect in the -centre of the room, book in hand, reading aloud. You cannot help but -notice, although Spanish may be Greek to you, that the reader’s voice is -powerful and well trained, reaching<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> to the extreme corners and to the -most distant ears on the vast floor. He is a professional reader. The -several hundred men club together, each paying a nominal sum for the -reader’s services. In this way, while engaged in their work, they hear -the news of the day and are regaled with the latest Spanish novel.</p> - -<p>“Packing” cigars is a technical term. It is not simply to tie them up -with pretty silk ribbons and place them neatly in a box. A packer is one -who assorts the colors also. It is a very nice and delicate piece of -work. It demands a good eye for color and long experience, and then it -can only be done in a certain light, of course not by artificial light, -nor unless the day is bright.</p> - -<p>An overcast, murky and heavy sky is not good for packing—assorting, it -might be called. In a few hundred loose cigars placed on a table ready -for “packing,” the casual observer will probably see only three or four -colors. They are first assorted roughly to bring together those of -decided colors—light brown, medium, dark brown, etc. Then a pile of -dark or light shades is gone over again and again until the different -piles of cigars are alike, as if they were all made from one leaf and -turned out by machinery. The packer also discards a cigar that is not -perfectly made, or one not uniform with the rest. A special few, exact -as to form and hue, are selected for the top row, to catch and please -the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised. A good packer -is paid better than any other operative in the business. Men and women -are employed in it, some of them earning as high as twenty-five or -thirty-five dollars per week.</p> - -<p>The sponge trade is also a very large and important industry here. The -sponges are found in this part of the Gulf of Mexico, and the trade -gives employment to a great many people. I visited the largest sponge -house, that of Arapian & Co., and saw there in different stages, sponges -valued at a quarter of a million dollars.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> Such a stock of sponges, as -you can easily imagine, occupies much space. My only surprise was to -find such valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building. A fire -would spread easily, and the whole would be rapidly consumed.</p> - -<p>I have spoken of the dirty, unpaved streets of Key West; it would be -unfair not to mention a lovely drive which you can take for a few miles -on the edge of the Gulf. You go around the old forts, you see -lighthouses and other interesting objects en route, the bracing air from -the Gulf fans your cheeks, the ocean is spread out before you, and if -you return in the early evening, and near dinner time, you will most -likely be favored with a grand sunset, and you will surely have a keen -appetite.</p> - -<p>Key West is reached from New York by steamers of the Mallory line, and -from New Orleans by New Orleans and Havana steamers, but decidedly the -best and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the Plant line -of steamers which leave Tampa, Florida and Havana, Cuba, three times a -week. The “Mascotte” and “Olivette” were built for this route. They are -both staunch, swift, beautifully appointed ships, whose commanders were -in the Atlantic service for years, the “Olivette” being the fastest boat -of her size in the world—a model vessel.</p> - -<p>If you are going to Key West for pleasure—it is possible for people to -go there with that end in view—you will go from New York to -Jacksonville via the Pennsylvania and Atlantic coast lines and there -take the Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West Railroad, although part of -this “railway” journey consists of a sail on the Gulf of Mexico, from -Tampa.</p> - -<p>The island, with all its objectionable features, has churches of -different denominations, it has convents, good schools, and has one -large substantial and beautiful brick and stone building for a custom -house, for which the government appropriated one hundred thousand -dollars.</p> - -<p>Key West has a police force numbering fourteen officers, including men -of all colors and several nationalities.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="ST_AUGUSTINE" id="ST_AUGUSTINE"></a>ST. AUGUSTINE.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> -<p class="c">AN ANCIENT CITY MODERNIZED.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">St. Augustine, Fla.</span>, Feb. 8, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>What a contrast, to leave the dust and dirt of Key West, its unpaved -roadways, full of deep ruts, large holes and great gullies: Key West, -with its mixed population of twenty thousand negroes, Cubans, Chinamen -and white folks: Key West, minus sidewalks, and minus many evidences of -a high state of civilization: what a contrast is it to arrive in this -beautiful city of the South, with its smooth-paved streets, its clean -and aristocratic air, and its three wondrously beautiful Spanish hotels, -all within speaking distance of each other. It is like leaping, if I may -use such an expression, from hades to heaven.</p> - -<p>The changes here within the past three years are great. Most important -to the tourist is the erection of a railway bridge which crosses the St. -John’s River. Three years ago you were obliged to stop at Jacksonville -if you approached from the north; if from the south, you steamed across -on a ferry-boat from Palatka. Now you take your seat in a drawing-room -car at Jersey City, in the North, or at Tampa, if you approach from the -South, and you need not leave the car until the conductor calls out “St. -Augustine”—thirty-one hours by vestibuled train from New York, twelve -hours by the West India Fast Mail from the Gulf, at Tampa.</p> - -<p>As to other changes, much land has been reclaimed from the river, miles -of roadway have been asphalted and paved with wooden blocks; the old -fort is being restored, for which work the government has appropriated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> -$15,000; many new houses have been built, all of coquina and in the -Moorish style; to the oldest house in the town has been added a new -stone tower; there has been erected a new City Hall, which includes a -fine market; and to crown it all, as it were, there is a new church, a -Memorial Presbyterian Church, built in memory of the beautiful daughter -Mr. Flagler lost two years ago. The structure is so attractive, so -pleasing to the eye, that in driving away from it you find yourself -constantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural lines in -view as long as possible.</p> - -<p>It is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of the Ponce de Leon -Hotel, the drawing-room of which, with its magnificent proportions, its -onyx fire-place, its ceiling decorations, its rich carpets and -furniture, and its rare paintings by Bridgman, Koppay, and other -artists, is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world. To call it -palatial is no compliment to “the Ponce” parlor, for I have seen no -apartments in royal palaces that are more pleasing, and I have been -favored with a view of many palaces in many countries. But the -approaches to the great hotel and its own grounds have been improved and -are now finished.</p> - -<p>The same remarks will apply to the exterior of the Alcazar Hotel, the -smooth and pleasant walk around the outside of which measures just half -a mile. The colored boys know: they use it semi-occasionally for a foot -or bicycle race: “twice around the Alcazar is one mile” they will tell -you.</p> - -<p>One of the novel features of this establishment is a swimming pool, into -which the sulphur water rushes up from the artesian well with great -force. There is room in the pool (40 by 120 feet) for scores of -swimmers, and there is always a number of visitors looking from the -galleries above on the lively scene below. With the mercury ranging -between 70 and 80 the sulphur water is indeed refreshing; and they say -it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span> is quite invigorating. Temperature of the water, 75 degrees.</p> - -<p>In the Hotel Cordova you will notice some changes, for the indefatigable -manager, E. N. Wilson, is never content with his efforts. There is a new -dining-room for instance. The best seems not good enough for Mr. Wilson, -and his critical eye is always finding some way to improve the house and -to add to its comfort. He has redecorated the parlor. The walls are now -richly papered but the tints are not satisfactory—to Mr. Wilson. The -furniture and carpets are in dark colors, so Mr. Wilson later on -contemplates covering the walls with white and gold for an artistic -contrast. Expensive? Yes, I should say so, but who cares for the -expense? Mr. Flagler has a very long purse and Mr. Wilson has <i>carte -blanche</i>. If the owner in planning these hotels had thought only of -pecuniary profit probably they would never have come into existence in -their present form. It is an idea with him to beautify the ancient city, -and a half million dollars more or less make little or no difference to -Mr. Flagler. Yet his hotels are conducted with a careful regard of -business-like methods, although this is not apparent to the casual -observer.</p> - -<p>By the way, I have the very best of reasons for knowing that Mr. -Flagler’s private acts of charity are many and munificent. After making -full and proper inquiry into a case presented to him he always responds, -but he never wants his generous acts to be made public. He will not -thank me for this “mention,” I feel sure, but it is his due and possibly -no harm can come from printing it.</p> - -<p>Mr. Flagler has bought all the land around and about his three hotels, -so that nobody can erect anything anywhere near him. He is not the man -to do anything by halves.</p> - -<p>The sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a suite I occupy in -the castellated tower on a corner of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> Hotel Cordova. The walls of -the building are of gray coquina. Outside each window is a small and -separate “kneeling balcony,” protected by ornamental iron railings, -painted a reddish brown—such balconies as you see in some buildings in -Madrid. The windows have white lace curtains and the shades are -alternate blue and crimson—contrasting pleasantly with the neutral tint -of the outer walls. To the east, within stone’s throw, is Cordova Park; -to the west, the same distance, is the one-acre park of the Alcazar, -with its tropical foliage, pretty walks and handsome fountain; while -diagonally opposite, same distance again (about one hundred feet), loom -up the terra-cotta turrets, towers, arches and gabled roofs of the Ponce -de Leon Hotel, with its grand park of four and a half acres. This may -convey some idea of the situation; to describe the scene requires the -pen if not the pencil of an artist.</p> - -<p>The Cordova drawing-room has its tables and chairs, and it contains some -books also; not odd volumes picked up haphazard, but books bought and -selected by an artist, book-worm and connoisseur. In the Cordova library -you will find “Burke’s Peerage,” “Almanach de Gotha,” “Webster’s Royal -Red Book,” “Kelly’s Handbook to the Titled, Landed and Official -Classes,” “The County Families of the United Kingdom,” Debrett’s “House -of Commons and the Judicial Bench,” “Castles and Abbeys of England” and -“Stately Homes of England.” I have enumerated only a few of the ordinary -volumes relating to Great Britain, but there are also rare and valuable -tomes richly and beautifully illustrated, descriptive of life and scenes -in different countries. For instance, one set in three volumes is -“Masterpieces of Industrial Art and Sculpture at the International -Exhibition,” by J. B. Waring, published in 1862. This mammoth work is -richly illuminated, bound in red morocco, picked out with gold, and -measures one foot by a foot and a half. It probably cost in London -twenty<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span>-five pounds, and gives one some idea of the money and good taste -expended in selecting the Cordova library. If one is fond of instructive -books his taste can be gratified at the Cordova.</p> - -<p>At the majority of hotels you eat ordinary oranges, brought to the table -direct from the store-room: at the Cordova only Indian River oranges are -used, selected “Indian Rivers,” and instead of coming direct from the -store-room they come from a refrigerator. After this process they become -Grateful and Comforting, to quote the names which Epps, the famous cocoa -man, gave his two daughters. Perfect quiet reigns in the dining-room. -The waiters are governed, well governed, by a head waiter whose head is -level. He would even satisfy that “cranky critic,” as he has been -called, Max O’Rell. The men, when serving dinner, wear dress coats, -black trousers and white cravats. Instead of a loose waistcoat they wear -a broad black sash around the waist, and instead of noisy boots they -wear shoes having cloth uppers and rubber soles—black tennis shoes. Not -a word is heard from the servants, except in polite response to an -order, and they glide about like dark angels.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_026.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_026_sml.jpg" width="127" height="78" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="ABOUT_TAMPA" id="ABOUT_TAMPA"></a>ABOUT TAMPA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">The Inn, Port Tampa, Fla.</span>, January 31, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Tampa is of interest historically, being the place where Ferdinand De -Soto landed May 25, 1539. From here he started on his search for the -mines of wealth supposed to exist in the new world, which resulted in -the discovery of the Mississippi river. It is here also that Narvaez, -having obtained a grant of Florida from Charles V. of Spain, landed with -a large force April 16, 1528.</p> - -<p>Tampa is on the Gulf coast of Florida, two hundred and forty miles from -Jacksonville. There are two trains daily with Pullman cars from -Jacksonville and St. Augustine to Tampa, passing through Palatka, -Sanford and Winter Park, both having direct connection with all Eastern -and Western cities and one being a through train from New York.</p> - -<p>Its rapid growth during the past seven years from about eight hundred -inhabitants to as many thousands, has been brought about by the Plant -system, which completed the South Florida railroad to Tampa for the -purpose of developing Tampa commercially.</p> - -<p>Dr. Long, a United States army surgeon, wrote of Fort Brooks, at Tampa, -“This post has always been considered a delightful station.” Dr. Long’s -reports and other reports to the surgeon-general at Washington show it -to be one of the most healthful stations in the country.</p> - -<p>Peninsulas have always been thought desirable because of their climate, -which gives them advantages<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> over other localities, and among peninsulas -Florida is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly as it is -affected by the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>The investment of large capital in constructing a new hotel in Florida -with the expectation of drawing to it the requisite patronage, demanded -a knowledge of the requirements of winter tourists who visit the place -for health or pleasure. Those requirements have been carefully studied -by Mr. H. B. Plant, president of the Plant Investment Company, acting -under the advice of eminent scientists, in the selection of Tampa. The -new hotel is situated on the west side of the Hillsborough river where -it empties into Tampa bay, opposite to and facing the city, which is -within easy walking distance. From the river to the front of the hotel -there are extensive lawns and flower beds, with orange, palm and other -tropical trees, the hotel grounds and property including twenty-two -acres. At the rear of the house there is a long stretch of pine lands.</p> - -<p>As you view the house at a distance, from the deck of a steamer, or from -a car window, with its long stretch of brick front, its iron and stone -trimmings, its many towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed, -balloon-shaped domes, each surmounted by a shining gold crescent, it -impresses you at once as being a great oriental palace. And this idea is -aided by the palms and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is -surrounded.</p> - -<p>The oriental idea also strikes you as you enter. There is a grand -“office,” the ceilings are supported by stout marble columns, and the -music-room, the drawing-room, and all the minor rooms on the main floor -are furnished in the very best taste, the matter of expense never -seeming to be a question with those who selected the furniture and -decorations in different parts of the world. It is safe to say that very -few winter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span> or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly -furnished.</p> - -<p>The hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and is practically -fireproof, the outer and inner walls being of brick, with steel beams -and concrete floors. There has been the most approved scientific work in -drainage and plumbing, and there is an abundant supply of good water. On -each floor the wide hall extends the entire length of the main -building—512 feet. There are no inside rooms. Every room has the sun -during some portion of the day, and a large number of suites have -private baths. The house is heated by steam, in addition to which there -are open fire-places in the rooms. The latest improvements have been -introduced in lighting.</p> - -<p>The other day I was in the Savannah depot of the Savannah, Florida and -Western railroad waiting for the Florida special vestibuled train, when -I heard a colored “depot hand” say that he wished the Tampa Bay Hotel -had been built elsewhere. “Why, may I ask?” “Well,” answered my civil -and sable informant, “I am tired of handlin’ de stuff for dat hotel; -we’se been a doin’ it in dis yer depot for de whole year. But it’s -comin’ putty near de end now, I guess. Las’ Saturday der went thro’ de -depot three whole cyars filled with nutting else but cyarpets, all for -dat house.” These remarks give one some faint idea of the size of the -new hotel.</p> - -<p>Mr. Plant did a great deal for Tampa when he ran his railroad down -there, his lines of steamers from Tampa to Havana and Mobile have -greatly helped the prosperity of the place, and now he has crowned his -good work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regardless of the -cost. If there was not already a Plant City in Florida, I should suggest -to change the name of Tampa to Plant City. The house will accommodate -four hundred guests; the rates are five dollars per day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> It is only -open during the winter, from Christmas until the first of April. But do -not go to Tampa without your summer clothes.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>All the above relates to the big new hotel at Tampa Bay, but all of it -is written at the Inn, in Port Tampa, distant from Tampa Bay proper nine -miles. The Inn is “little,” it accommodates only seventy-five guests, -but it is a gem of a hotel. It is built on, or rather over, the water on -piles, and is like an island, being actually surrounded by water. There -is always a pleasant breeze on one side of the house, and a breeze is -very grateful in this latitude. As I write, the mercury in a thermometer -hanging outside my bedroom window marks 75 degrees; this is at 5 P.M., -Saturday, January 31. We sleep with open windows, and nothing more than -your pajama or a sheet is necessary for a covering.</p> - -<p>Two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely of sliding-windows -through which you can see wild ducks and fish in great quantities. I -have seen wild ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open windows -of this dining-room. You can throw a line into the water as you sit at -dinner and if it be properly baited you will probably find a mullet at -the end of the cord before you reach your <i>café noir</i>.</p> - -<p>It goes without saying that there are good sailing and fishing at Port -Tampa: Spanish mackerel and the pompano abound, the latter conceded by -epicures to be one of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world. -Here also is the famous tarpon—Silver King he has been christened. In -fact Port Tampa is a very paradise for sportsmen. It is easy to supply -the table with oysters, fish and game in profusion. The table by the way -is liberally provided, and the service by Swiss and French waiters is -good.</p> - -<p>The dining-room of the Tampa Inn reminds you of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> the dining-room of the -Hygeia Hotel at Old Point Comfort, not for its size, but for its water -surroundings, and the scene outside brings up recollections of the Surf -Hotel at Fire Island. Picnic Island, across the Gulf one mile, might be -a bit of Long Island. But there the similarity ends because the Inn, -unlike the Surf Hotel, is a new house and is luxuriously furnished.</p> - -<p>Steamers leave here weekly (every Tuesday) for Mobile, and tri-weekly -(Monday, Thursday and Saturday), for Key West and Havana.</p> - -<p>The railway depot conveying you to Tampa Bay (frequent daily trains), is -at the door of the hotel, and from this same depot you can get a through -car to Jacksonville or to New York.</p> - -<p>The rates at the Inn are four and five dollars a day. It is proposed to -keep it open all the year.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_027.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_027_sml.jpg" width="210" height="114" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="MONTEREY_CALIFORNIA" id="MONTEREY_CALIFORNIA"></a>MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Monterey, Cal.</span>, March 25, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The name Monterey means Mountain King and was bestowed on the place in -1602 by Don Sebastian Vizcaino in honor of Jaspar de Zuniga, Conte de -Monte de Rey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It was he who suggested -and projected the expedition undertaken by Vizcaino.</p> - -<p>When the members of this expedition returned to Spain the place returned -to its primitive condition and nothing was heard of it till a band of -Franciscan missionaries arrived on this coast in 1768, one hundred and -sixty-eight years after the first discovery. This expedition came under -the direction and guidance of the president of the band, Father Junipero -Serra.</p> - -<p>At the risk of being charged with sacrilege, I will interpolate right -amid this ancient history a bit of fresh news imparted to me yesterday -by a carriage driver. He showed me from the road a high plateau -overlooking the sea, where plainly to the naked eye were to be seen -preparations for receiving a statue, which is to be in place and to be -dedicated before long. It will be in honor of Father Junipero before -mentioned; it will cost ten thousand dollars, and the wife of Senator -Leland Stanford will foot the bill. The site for the statue is a -magnificent one, and if the work of art be worthy of its position, the -city of Monterey will have something it may be proud of.</p> - -<p>There’s a “History of Monterey County” by E. S. Harrison. I didn’t know -before I came here and looked into it that Monterey was the first place -settled in the State of California; that the first custom house in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_028.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_028_sml.jpg" width="338" height="211" alt="HOTEL DEL MONTE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">HOTEL DEL MONTE.</span> -</div> - -<p>State (now an old rookery) was established here; that Monterey was once -not only a bustling city, but the capital of the State. It is not a -wholly deserted village now, but its commercial glory, like that of -Newport, R. I., which was once a greater port of entry than New York, -has departed, never to return. But Monterey will always be dear to the -hearts of Californians, from its historic associations and connections.</p> - -<p>“The first European lady to come to California,” says Harrison, “was the -wife of Governor Fages, who arrived in Monterey in 1783. Their child, -born about 1784, was probably the first child born in California of -European parents.”</p> - -<p>Monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco, and is -reached in four hours by the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific -Railroad Company. On the way, in San Mateo county (<i>en passant</i>, what -musical names all these counties and mountains have), within ten to -forty miles from the starting point, Fourth and Townsend streets, you -pass the rural homes of San Francisco’s millionaires. Some are set in -great forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in perennial bloom. -Next, the beautiful city of San José comes in view, and a flourishing -city it appears to be from the car windows. As the train rolls along you -keep in sight for many miles the dome of the Lick Observatory, which -glistens in the sunlight on the summit of Mount Hamilton.</p> - -<p>And then you haven’t eyes enough to take in and enjoy the beautiful -views of ocean, river, valley and mountain as the train dashes -along—the Coast Range mountains on your left, on the right the Santa -Cruz mountains, with the sun setting behind them—a glorious moving -panorama.</p> - -<p>After passing what is called the most fertile valley in the State -Monterey is reached, if that be your destination, but there is a more -important station one mile this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> side of Monterey. When the conductor -calls out “Hotel del Monte” very few passengers in the cars remain -seated, and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town of Monterey, -almost empty.</p> - -<p>The first action which the Pacific Improvement Company took when they -concluded to make of this place a summer and winter resort was to -purchase some land for the purpose, so they purchased <i>seven thousand -acres</i>. Part of this domain was a forest, and of this they selected for -their hotel “garden” a simple matter of <i>one hundred and twenty-six -acres</i>. Forty acres of this they cultivated in flower-beds, lawns, -vegetables and fruit; the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it, -after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to lay out within -their gates a few miles for drives and paths.</p> - -<p>Then it occurred to them that it would be well to have a grand outside -drive as an additional attraction, so they made one, cutting away -mountain, forest and bluff; going through the woods, four or five miles; -skirting the ocean for the same distance; altogether a nice little -post-prandial drive of <i>seventeen miles</i>. But this is not much—for -California. The drive being private property it is used only for the -guests of the Hotel del Monte, the owners of which keep it in the best -order, and in summer time have it watered. It is macadamized and in as -good condition as the drives in Central Park, New York.</p> - -<p>The road winds toward the bay through a forest of oaks and pines. For -two or three miles it will be cool, dark, shaded and sweet smelling, and -presently you get a view of the ocean. If the wind is high, as it was on -the twenty-second of March, you will see foaming white-caps in the -distance, and the spray dashing wildly on the bare brown rocks in the -foreground, making a picture which, on the day we saw it, was awfully -grand. I don’t mean this in the sense that girls do when they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_029.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_029_sml.jpg" width="476" height="282" alt="THE SEAL ROCKS AT MONTEREY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE SEAL ROCKS AT MONTEREY.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">say a thing is “awfully nice;” I mean that the boisterous waves were -almost frightful with their impetuous rush and their terrible roar.</p> - -<p>To quote dear old Fitz-Greene Halleck, whose statue in Central Park few -recognize:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The winds of March were humming<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Their parting song, their parting song.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>It was a habit of my predecessor on the <i>Home Journal</i>, General George -P. Morris, to publish annually this sweet song of Halleck’s in the <i>Home -Journal</i> during the first week of March. It was a singular fancy of -Morris’s and it pleased his brother poet.</p> - -<p>But I am getting away from my story—and the surf. The seals didn’t seem -to mind the roaring surf or howling wind. Their unearthly bark formed -part of the grand chorus. They tossed their heads and rolled their -ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their command, which is not -saying much for their sylph-like movements. No; water is their element.</p> - -<p>If you expect to see the seals of the same color as the sealskin sacques -worn by women, you may not see the seals at all, for they match in color -with the brownish gray rocks on which they romp. They have not gone -through the process of “London dyeing.” I didn’t take the trouble to get -out of the carriage and go down to the shore, so in this instance I -accepted the driver’s word that there were five hundred seals on the -rocks.</p> - -<p>The cultivated grounds of the Hotel del Monte astonish you with their -size and beauty and with the neatness and order in which they are kept. -Probably not elsewhere is there such variety in horticulture. Everything -from everywhere seems to thrive here. Nor do I know of any section of -country where there are such noble oaks and pines, but probably the -company claim too much when they say that “the garden is the finest, -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> most gorgeous, the richest and most varied in all the world.” A few -years have elapsed since I examined Kensington and Kew closely, but it -seems to me that the Tuileries gardens, which I saw one year ago, are -richer, and I know that the gardens in Hyde Park, through which I -strolled last August, are more pleasing to the eye and to the sense of -smell. I speak of the floral display only; it must be remembered, -however, that the Del Monte gardens are not at their best in March.</p> - -<p>The trees are wonderful. I carry with me not only a thermometer but a -tiny tape measure, the latter in my pocket. I asked the driver to stop -as we were driving through the grounds, while I measured a pine and I -found that it was four and a half yards in circumference near the -ground. The driver told me how tall it was, but I will not quote him as -I’m not giving you “California stories.” This pine was not pointed out -nor did I select it for its size. There were others within a few feet of -where this giant stood just as large, and for all I know there are -hundreds on the ground much larger.</p> - -<p>Of course the palm abounds, all trees of tropical growth are here; there -are calla lilies for borders, violets, heliotrope, nasturtium, -honeysuckle in wild profusion, and this in March, mind you. Is there -ivy? “Well, rather,” as an Englishman might answer such a question. A -leaf now lies on my table which measures five inches across. The grounds -are in charge of a skilled landscape gardener with a force of -thirty-five men—English, American and Chinese.</p> - -<p>Foreigners from other lands may rail against the Chinese as much as they -please, and our legislators may be right in excluding them lest they -overrun the country, but it must be said in their favor that they are a -peaceful, industrious set, and there are no better servants for indoor -or outdoor work. Under certain conditions, however, they are as -obstinate as mules. When<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> you engage them you must be exceedingly -careful in giving them instructions, for they will always continue to do -what they are at first told to do; you cannot change their ways.</p> - -<p>Mr. George Schönewald, manager of Hotel del Monte, while we were -chatting in his office, illustrated it to me in this way: “Observe that -Chinaman wiping carefully the casing of that white door. He was told -when he first came here that he was to do that sort of work at this time -of day, and if the heavens fall he’ll do it. If I were to ask him this -minute to leave that door and polish this plate glass window he might -obey, but it would upset him for the day, if not for all time. If you -change your mind and want the work done in a different way you had -better change your Chinaman, you can’t change their ways. But seven -Chinamen will do the work of fourteen white men.”</p> - -<p>And this brings me to the fact that nearly all the walls and all the -interior woodwork of these great buildings are painted white. The lack -of color becomes a little tiresome to the eye, but one thing comforts -you, it is kept white—not a mark, not a spot to mar its perfection. -Chinamen are always washing either doors, windows, surbase, or whatever -part of the floor is not carpeted; all is pure white except the floor of -the beautiful dining-room, which is of dark English oak kept highly -polished.</p> - -<p>The series of buildings is in the modern Gothic style, the main building -three hundred and fifty feet front, with a central tower eighty feet -high and wings or annexes two hundred and eighty feet long, showing an -entire floor area of sixteen acres. An acre or two, more or less, is -nothing—in California. The bed-room in which this is written is an -ordinary room here, eighteen by sixteen feet. Even the marble wash-basin -is worth measuring—three feet three in circumference. Running water, -gas, fireplaces; and closets built with partition<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> walls in every room. -There are five hundred and ten rooms, and seven hundred people can be -accommodated comfortably.</p> - -<p>I am surprised here, as I have been elsewhere in California, at the low -rates which obtain at hotels. A placard on the door of this -well-furnished room, with beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious -bed, reads: “Rate for this room, with board, for one person $3.50; for -two $6.50. With bath-room $4 and $7 per day.” And in the bath-room there -appears to be an inexhaustible supply of boiling water. There is no -charge made in the ladies’ billiard room, which adjoins the parlor; no -charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake.</p> - -<p>If the plumbing is right, and so it appears to be, there is no trouble -with the question of drainage, the ocean being at the door. The drinking -water is brought from Carmel river, eighteen miles distant, in the -mountains. A ton of ice per day is made on the premises. Some of the -vegetables are raised near the hotel, and there is a dairy farm -connected with the property measuring untold acres.</p> - -<p>Native wines are sold at Hotel del Monte lower than I’ve seen them -either here or abroad. It’s easy to be a “swell” at Del Monte. A half -bottle of Zinfandel is opened and served at table for fifteen cents, and -a very good wine it is, too, so far as pleasing my palate goes. But I -don’t profess to be so well versed in wines as the late Sam Ward or the -present Ward McAllister. There is a secret, however, in the low charge -for California wine at Hotel del Monte—the company have their own -vineyards. What haven’t they got? They have nothing less than a Steinway -concert grand in the parlor and another in the ball-room.</p> - -<p>There’s a feature that almost escaped being put down, and yet it is -worthy of special mention. To the first floors in the two annexes you -neither ascend nor descend any stairs; nor do you to the second floor. -To<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade; to the -second you ascend an inclined arcade. If you have a room even on the -third floor you only walk up one flight of stairs, unless you prefer the -elevator.</p> - -<p>This is not a new idea, however. I remember being shown through an old, -unused palace in Berlin which was constructed in the same way, A member -of the royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism and so was -rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this way. The porter at this -hotel, wheeling his truck “upstairs” loaded with trunks, reminded me of -the rheumatic royalty.</p> - -<p>In all hotels recently constructed there is an electric bell as well as -an electric button in every room. If you leave word to be called in the -morning, there’s no rapping outside your door—rapping loud enough to -awaken every sleeper near your apartment. There is an electric button in -the office which connects with a bell in your room, and to this call you -will respond. There is no escape from it; you must get out of bed to -stop the ringing.</p> - -<p>The first Hotel del Monte, opened in 1880, was destroyed by fire: the -new house was erected four years ago. The present manager, Mr. George -Schönewald, opened the first house and superintended the construction of -the second. As his name indicates, he is not to the manor born. He -arrived in this country twenty-five years ago without a penny in his -pocket, but with a determination to make a position for himself. There -is no secret in his success. Anybody can gain success who will follow -the Schönewald method. It was not “blind luck “ with him, but industry, -unceasing industry, directed with unusual intelligence.</p> - -<p>Schönewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position. On his arrival in -this country he decided to be a practical confectioner, and not long -after he received the highest salary ever paid in the State to a -confectioner. Then<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> he took to cooking and earned the highest salary -ever paid to a cook in the State. Step by step has he moved from the -very bottom round of the ladder to the management of one of the largest -and finest hotels in the country.</p> - -<p>Schönewald is a worker. He is supposed to take three meals a day, but -sometimes his breakfast is not touched till late in the afternoon. From -my window I have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before my -toilet was completed; and your humble servant, as a general rule, is out -of bed before seven A.M. The interests of the company first, his own -comfort last, seems to be this manager’s motto.</p> - -<p>Yes, your Germans are workers. Mrs. Schönewald is her husband’s -helpmeet: she fills the position of housekeeper at Hotel del Monte, and -that probably accounts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably -furnished—a rocker here, an easy, arm-chair there, with a neat white -“tidy” on the upholstered back. There’s nothing like a woman’s eye, a -woman’s thoughtfulness in providing all the tasteful etceteras which -make a home comfortable and complete.</p> - -<p>I will close with a clipping from the tourist book, “To the Golden -Gate,” issued by the Pennsylvania Railroad:—“The Eastern traveler -coming to California’s coast and failing to see ‘Del Monte’ has indeed -missed not everything, but a goodly part.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_030.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_030_sml.jpg" width="90" height="101" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_031.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_031_sml.jpg" width="547" height="280" alt="OLD OAKS, DEL MONTE." /></a> -</div> - -<h2> -<a href="images/ill_032.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_032_sml.jpg" width="316" height="170" alt="HOTEL DEL CORONADO, CORONADO BEACH, CALIFORNIA." /></a> -<br /><br /> -SAN DIEGO AND CORONADO.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Coronado Beach, Cal.</span>, March 5, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>I was induced to think about coming to Southern California by the -tempting descriptions in Henry T. Finck’s book, “Scenic Tour of the -Pacific Coast,” and by interesting articles in the Century Magazine. -Toward San Diego and Coronado Beach my steps were turned by Charles -Dudley Warner’s glowing accounts in Harper’s Magazine.</p> - -<p>I had always accepted with a grain of salt the flattering reports so -widely published, and now that I have seen for myself these wondrous -things, my friends will scarcely credit my story, so enthusiastic have I -become.</p> - -<p>However, I do not intend that you shall rely on my mere “say so.” I’ve -been looking up official and other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> authorities—men of wide reputation, -who have a name to lose.</p> - -<p>First, as to climate. This is the fifth of March; I have been here one -week to-day, and every day of the seven has been about alike—dry, -sunshiny, only on one or two days cloudy. On some days of the seven I -have seen men bathing in the ocean, and the bathers said that the -temperature was enjoyable—this in February. I am told that you can -bathe in the surf the year round, but never mind what “I am told.”</p> - -<p>And in temperature, I believe it to be the most equable climate in the -world—but away with “beliefs,” I have a thermometer of my own, and the -hotel has one also, but I have watched closely a government, -self-recording instrument which is so placed that no ray of the sun nor -no reflection can approach it, and the figures, signed by an official of -the signal service in the United States army, record something like this -for the current week: five A. M., 55 degrees; noon, 68 degrees; five P. -M., 64 degrees. The figures quoted, to be exact, are those recorded on -February 28; some days since then have been a trifle cooler.</p> - -<p>You may suggest: “If there is almost continual sunshine during daylight, -and the ground is always covered with grass and wild flowers, it must be -very hot and trying in summer.”</p> - -<p>Must it? Remember there is a bay on three sides of Coronado, and the -Pacific ocean is on the other. But I will ask you to remember nothing. -From the compiled records of the United States signal station here, I -have “boiled down” a lot of facts and figures into this condensed form, -to wit:—in ten years, from 1876 to 1885, both years inclusive, there -were only one hundred and twenty days on which the mercury rose higher -than 80 degrees. And the summer nights are far more pleasant than those -you experience in New York.</p> - -<p>What about the winter then? Here is the answer,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> gathered in the same -way from the same official source. There were only ninety-three days in -those same ten years upon which the mercury reached as low as 40, and on -no day did it remain at 40 for more than two hours.</p> - -<p>By comparing, as I did, the United States record of the mean temperature -at Coronado for one year with a computation—made in the same year by -Dr. Bennett of the mean temperature of the Mediterranean records, I find -that the winter temperature of Coronado is 8 degrees <i>higher</i> than the -winter temperature of the most favored foreign winter resorts, and the -summer temperature 10 degrees <i>lower</i>, thus making an average of 9 -degrees in favor of Coronado as an all-year-round resort.</p> - -<p>I haven’t the honor of Mr. Douglas Gunn’s acquaintance, but in his -interesting pamphlet concerning this region he says: “With scarcely a -perceptible difference between summer and winter you wear the same -clothing and sleep under the same covering the year round. The average -annual rainfall is about ten inches, with an average of thirty-four -rainy days in the whole year. And here most of the rain falls at night; -there are very few of what Eastern people would call “<span class="lftspc">‘</span>rainy days.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p>My week’s experience agrees with Mr. Gunn’s observations. He says: -“Almost every morning, about two hours after sunrise, a gentle sea -breeze commences, attaining its maximum velocity between one and three -P.M., then decreasing, and changing to a gentle land breeze during the -night. The sea breeze increasing as the sun gains its height, modifies -the power of its rays, and keeps the skin just comfortably warm. The -gentle land breeze at night cools off the heat absorbed during the day, -and makes every night refreshing.”</p> - -<p>I could go on and quote to the same effect from no less distinguished an -authority than the scientist Agassiz,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> who was in this locality nineteen -years ago; also from Dr. Chamberlain in the New York Medical Record, who -says “it is the sanitarium of the Military Division for the Pacific,” -and from one known to me personally, Dr. Titus Munson Coan, a New York -littérateur of reputation, who calls this “the most charming spot on -earth;” but I fear that you might make some such remark as a very young -clubman did (fifty years ago) on seeing “Hamlet” for the first time. -Asked for his opinion, he said: “It’s a very good play, Fred, but too -d——d full of quotations.”</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Location.</span>—Coronado Beach proper occupies about one-half of the -peninsula that forms the bay of San Diego. It is situated in the extreme -southwestern corner of the State, in latitude 32 degrees 42 minutes 37 -seconds north, longitude 117 degrees 9 minutes west, and is four hundred -and eighty miles southeast from San Francisco. The peculiar shape of -this unique peninsula makes it difficult to describe. Beginning as it -does, very near the boundary line of Lower California, in Mexico, it -reaches away to the westward for miles, until, at a point opposite the -present city of San Diego, it forms a conjunction with what seems to -have been an island, which, if squared, would measure about a mile and a -half on each side. On the northeast and southeast are the slopes and -peaks of the Coast Range and Lower California chain of mountains; -southward lies the Pacific ocean; on the west is Point Loma, which forms -the western boundary of the entrance to the bay, and breaks the force of -the winter winds from the Pacific.</p> - -<p>But how do you get to the hotel? Well, Coronado is one and a half miles -from San Diego, San Diego is one hundred and twenty-five miles from Los -Angeles, and Los Angeles is a station of the Southern Pacific Railroad, -also a station of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fé road. San Diego is -also reached by steamer from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> San Pedro and from San Francisco, eight -hours from the former, two days from the latter.</p> - -<p>The Pacific Coast Steamship Company runs a fine line of boats. I made -the trip on one, the Corona, a well-appointed vessel of 1500 tons, built -on the plan of the Olivette and Mascotte, which run between Tampa and -Havana. The Corona makes about thirteen knots; not so swift as the -Olivette; no boat of her size is as swift as the Olivette.</p> - -<p>Some of the conditions of land and water are similar to those at Fire -Island—ocean on one side, bay on the other. But while Fire Island lacks -vegetation, every inch of ground here which is allowed to remain so is -green, or is carpeted with flowers—literally carpeted. No; Fire Island -will not quite answer for comparison. There is no use for a horse, nor -is there a horse on the land or the sand of Sammis, while here there are -fast trotters, lovely drives and a race course. The two places are -alike, in that surf and still water bathing can both be had, as well as -sailing and rowing. But there is other sport here—shooting, for -instance. I saw two men go out this morning after breakfast, -empty-handed (one of them was E. S. Babcock), and I saw them return this -evening with a bag which they said contained “about one hundred quail.” -I saw the birds counted and they numbered one hundred—lacking eight.</p> - -<p>Is the ocean too cool for you or the surf boisterous, there is a plunge -bath off shore with water heated to 80 degrees. The tank measures 40 x -60 feet, so you can flounder about like a veritable fish.</p> - -<p>But you neither shoot, fish, swim, ride nor drive? Then there are -charming and varied walks—on the edge of the rough ocean, on the edge -of the smooth bay, on the high bluff at the side of the former, or -through pretty country lanes and lovely gardens.</p> - -<p>There is a charming walk of about one mile from the hotel to the ferry, -and planks are laid about half the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span> distance. You pass by or pass -through pretty parks. On each “sidewalk” there is a row of young fan -palms six to eight feet high, these alternate with daisy bushes six feet -in circumference, the palm trees and bushes being about eight feet -apart; here and there rows of young pines ten or twelve feet high.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Magnificent Valley View.</span>—To my mind one of the most delightful -morning or afternoon excursions hereabouts is made at an expense of -forty cents, without walking a block. Steam railway from hotel to ferry, -boat across the bay to San Diego, next a horse car to cable road, then -five miles by cable road through a country rich with gorgeous mountain, -valley and ocean views, to “The Pavilion.” The Pavilion, erected on the -summit of a mountain, is an amusement building surrounded by well-kept -paths and terraces from which a view is had of Mission Valley, a valley -and a view not unlike that which you get from the old Catskill Mountain -House and which many people prefer to that, because this view is not so -extensive and can all be taken in and enjoyed at a glance, with the -naked eye. You can see cattle and dogs in Mission Valley from your -elevated position, and you see men ploughing and engaged in other farm -labor. It is a spectacle that is worth going a hundred miles to see, and -if you can afford it you would not begrudge as many dollars as it costs -cents to make the trip. You are at a loss for words to describe your -feelings of pleasure when the grand Mission Valley view bursts upon you. -You remain silent in awe and admiration.</p> - -<p>Are these walks and excursions not of your choice, or should the weather -be inclement, there are verandas about the hotel measuring a mile or -more.</p> - -<p>Neither have interior amusement and exercise been forgotten. There is a -dancing hall (to which reference will be made further on), there are -bowling alleys and there are some billiard tables—as many as -thirty—some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> for men on the lower floor, some for the other sex on the -main floor, and some for both sexes on the floor above. Just think of -thirty billiard tables in one house.</p> - -<p>The tables for women are well patronized. It is remarked that women -favor billiard playing in the evening and in evening dress, and it is -also noticed that the figure of a beautiful woman with her shapely arm -in short sleeves of lace is seen to excellent advantage when leaning -over the table, the white arm forming a pleasing contrast in color to -the dark green baize of the table.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Coronado’s Rapid Growth.</span>—The Coronado Beach Company was organized a few -years ago with a capital of three millions of dollars. The directors are -E. S. Babcock, Charles T. Hinde, John D. Spreckels, H. W. Mallett and -Giles Kellogg. The president is E. S. Babcock. The company some years -ago laid out that part of the peninsula known as Coronado Beach into -streets and avenues; but up to January 1, 1887, not a house was built. -Now the streets are lined with beautiful villa residences—some of them -substantial, imposing brick buildings—handsome cottages and many -business blocks. There are three or four hotels, several nurseries, -lumber yards, planing mills, foundries, factories, fruit packing -establishments and shipbuilding yards. There is a handsome Methodist -Episcopal church; the Presbyterian, Episcopal and Catholic denominations -also have places of worship. A commodious school-house has a large -number of pupils and Coronado has a weekly newspaper. With the growth of -young Coronado came the growth of old San Diego—in fact, the latter -reflects and shares the popularity of the former. San Diego’s -population, which in 1884 was twenty-four hundred, now numbers over -twenty thousand. Imagine the population of a town increasing eight fold -in seven years.</p> - -<p>Neither crooked like those of London, nor narrow like those of Boston, -are the streets of Coronado. Like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> the streets in Philadelphia and San -Diego, they are named after trees: Orange avenue is one hundred and -forty feet wide, Palm and Olive avenues one hundred feet wide. A -boulevard one hundred and thirty feet wide extends around the entire -property. What about the sewer system? Unlike Key West, in Florida, -Coronado with its unequalled water facilities has taken advantage of its -excellent natural position. With the bay and ocean at its doors, the -sewer question was quickly and easily solved—every street is already -sewered. Investors were not taking any chances when they placed their -funds in Coronado’s keeping.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Good Purchase.</span>—The whole of what is now the flourishing city of San -Diego was bought twenty years ago by a Mr. Horton for twenty-six cents -an acre. He built the Horton House, and for him the Horton Block was -named. San Diego’s neighbor, Coronado Beach, was bought half a dozen -years ago for one hundred and eighty thousand dollars by a company which -has since parted with a parcel of the land for a million or two. They -kept some choice pieces for themselves. Among the parcels of land is -that upon which Hotel del Coronado stands, and upon which was expended a -million and a half dollars. San Diego and Coronado Beach both -experienced “booms” about three years ago, when many men became suddenly -rich, some of them since becoming poor. Not a few now are what is known -as “real estate poor,” their money is “locked up” in land for which -purchasers cannot be found at present—at least not at the price which -“raged” three years ago.</p> - -<p>Choice pieces on the main street of Coronado Beach sold as high as $500 -per front foot, which is about the price of lots in certain parts of New -York—say in Harlem—with this difference, that “lots” here are one -hundred and sixty feet deep. Had there not been real value in the land -when the bubble burst, the bottom would have dropped out entirely when -“hard pan” was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> reached. As it is, land and lots are again finding ready -purchasers, and houses are being built in goodly numbers. That there is -a steady growth, a healthy increase, and a great future for San Diego -and Coronado Beach is a matter of certainty.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Water, Ice and Sanitation.</span>—In my travels about the world I advise my -daughters to be cautious of the water in new places and to drink as -little as possible; here, on the contrary, I urge them to drink freely. -The water is not only pure and most agreeable to the taste, but it -contains medical properties which are beneficial to the system. Of this -we are assured by testimonials from leading physicians in different -States; among them Dr. W. H. Mason, late professor of physiology in the -University of Buffalo, N. Y., who, referring to the analysis, says: “The -water may be regarded as a regular elixir of life.” Its ingredients are -almost identical with the famous Bethesda waters of Wisconsin.</p> - -<p>At all events, a company with a capital of half a million dollars has -been formed that has secured possession of the springs, fourteen miles -distant. It has been “piped” to Coronado Heights and Coronado Beach and -the yield is now five million gallons per day, which can be easily -doubled by development. The water is used as drinking water at the hotel -and with carbonic gas it is bottled for shipment to all parts of the -country. If widely and liberally advertised, there is a fortune in -Coronado Springs. All the ice used on the premises is made from this -spring water, distilled, so that it is absolutely pure, which is more -than can be said of Rockland Lake or Maine ice. The machinery at the -hotel has a capacity of twelve tons per day.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Hotel.</span>—The structure, which with the furniture cost one and a half -millions of dollars, is built around a quadrangular court 250 × 150 -feet, the court being another name for a beautiful and well-kept -tropical garden. This feature reminds you of the open garden about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> -which the United States Hotel at Saratoga is built (which house has -earned the name of “the model hotel of the world”), only the Coronado -garden is filled with tropical plants and trees, and beautiful flowers -bloom the year round. It never looks as do the gardens in Saratoga at -the end of September. There are orange trees, lemons, figs, loquats, -olives, limes, pomegranates, the banana, etc.</p> - -<p>Mention of limes calls to mind that by invitation of the courteous and -intellectual gentleman in charge of the Coronado nurseries, I cut a -large cluster of limes and sent it to a friend in New York as a -souvenir. Such a profusion of flowers you never saw, unless you have -seen Coronado. For instance, a short time ago, in this nursery, thirty -thousand roses were cut in one day from less than a quarter acre of rose -bushes, and the flowers were merely cut to save the bushes. Everybody in -the neighborhood carried away great baskets of roses to fill bags and -pillow-cases.</p> - -<p>We were loaded with flowers, cut from the trees and bushes, in the open, -as we walked through the paths of the nursery—actually “loaded,” for -the ladies of the party not only carried hands and arms flowing over -with flowers—but their necks and shoulders were thickly entwined with -smilax. The flowers included the delicate heliotrope, the sweet -honeysuckle and the sturdy camelia, and they also embraced many flowers -new and strange to us, for everything seems to grow here, side by -side—everything that grows in the temperate, semi-tropical and tropical -zones.</p> - -<p>The hotel is situated on the southeastern portion of a beautiful mesa -(the name here for a slight elevation) which slopes gradually, in -terraces, from its centre toward the Pacific ocean on one side and the -bay of San Diego on the other. No one style of architecture has been -followed, as the reader will see from the accompanying illustration. It -partakes of the Queen Anne<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> style, also of the classic Norman era, -bringing up recollections of a grand old Norman castle: but the -architect has availed himself of different schools, producing a complete -and uncommonly beautiful whole. It is a striking object and the series -of buildings form a noble picture against the sky line when viewed four -or five miles distant—from San Diego or from the ocean.</p> - -<p>The projectors seem to have had a fancy for the biblical number seven. -The building covers seven acres; counting guest chambers, sixty parlors, -large and small, the private dining rooms and other public rooms, there -are in all seven hundred rooms, and there is accommodation for seven -hundred boarders.</p> - -<p>Why one side of the house is enclosed in glass I cannot understand, when -you can sit out doors every day in the year and bask in the sun. This is -a good arrangement for Atlantic City, but not necessary, it seems to me, -for Coronado Beach.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Drawing-room.</span>—This is not a cold, bare and barn-like apartment such -as you find the parlors in so many American hotels. It is cozy and -home-like, with an air of marked refinement. The dark walls are relieved -with some choice engravings, and here and there you’ll meet with a -living plant, and there is always a vase or two filled with fresh -flowers, such as greet the eye and please the sense of smell (in summer -time) in an English country hotel, say in the Lake district. The -Coronado parlor is cheerful, and with its low ceiling and pillars of -unpainted wood, calls to mind the beautiful parlor of the (Spanish) -Hotel Cordova in St. Augustine. In fact Mr. Babcock tells me that some -of the features of the house are reminiscent of the grand hotels in -Havana, where he lived for some time.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Other Public Rooms.</span>—But beside the drawing-room there are a number of -other large and beautiful apartments near by—the ladies’ billiard-room, -the reception-room, writing-room, chess-room, etc.,—something like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span> the -elegant public rooms (which are not so very public) in the Hotel -Victoria, London. There are a dozen or more suites of rooms with private -parlor for each suite, opening on the garden.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Dining-room.</span>—This is unique. At first glance, especially if you are -in the middle of the room, which is oval, it strikes you as rather bare, -monotonous and inartistic; very practical, with room for six hundred -people, but not entirely pleasing. But the longer you stay the more you -admire, particularly if you are lucky enough to get a table near an end -of the room, either that end which overlooks the garden or the end from -which you can see the ocean, the bay and the mountains beyond. It -measures 176 × 66 feet, and the ceiling is distant from the floor 33 -feet. The whole immense apartment, floor, walls and ceiling, is of light -colored wood—white Oregon pine and solid oak worked into panels of all -sizes and shapes conceivable. The materials and light colors, or color -rather, are suitable to this climate and in time you get to like them.</p> - -<p>The breakfast room is no miniature apartment either, 47 × 56 feet, with -ceiling as high as the dining-room ceiling. It is far more attractive to -my eye, its floor being carpeted, and having a high dado of California -redwood, which serves to relieve the lighter woods. But Americans demand -size for their beauty, and they have it in the dining-room with its -floor area of 10,000 feet. To quote the writer of a pamphlet, “it fills -the beholder with an astounding admiration.” Better than that, to my -taste, they have a skilful <i>chef</i>, and he fills your platter with most -appetizing dishes—if you get a good waiter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Where They Dance.</span>—In the extreme southwest corner of the building is -the ball-room, with an extended view of the beach and the ocean; indeed, -you cannot get away from the ocean unless you get away from Coronado. -The designer of this room has also “gone<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span> in” for size. It is a circular -room, no less than 60 feet high and 120 feet in diameter, giving a floor -area of 11,000 square feet. Too much room for a small “dance,” but -splendid for a ball or grand concert.</p> - -<p>A feature of the ball-room is a stage for amateur theatricals, which, -for size and appointments in the matter of lights, would not discredit a -regular theatre.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Rich and Royal Suite.</span>—Taken as a whole, there are more prettily -furnished bedrooms in Long’s Hotel, London, than in any other hotel I -have ever seen. The tower rooms in the Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, -Georgia, are large and remarkably beautiful, and the bridal suite in the -Ponce de Leon is supposed to be very choice, but the Ponce de Leon -“show” apartments will not compare in beauty nor in completeness of -detail with the bridal suite in Hotel del Coronado. These rooms in the -Coronado are not so palatial in size nor in the matter of costly -frescoes as the rooms in the London Métropole, in which I found Mr. and -Mrs. Augustin Daly last October, but they certainly are among the most -tastefully furnished hotel bedrooms I have ever seen, and it is not -surprising that the photographic views of these apartments find many -purchasers.</p> - -<p>The window has an eastern view that is extremely pleasing. To the right -are seen the ocean’s rough breakers, to the left is the smooth bay of -San Diego, while to the immediate front, as you lie in bed, if the -curtains are parted and you are awake at 6.20 A. M., you can see the sun -creeping up behind a range of great mountains, miles and miles away. The -soft cloud of black smoke curling from the tall, round, red brick -chimneys of the electric light engine house between you and the golden -sky beyond, does not mar the picture in the least.</p> - -<p>Across the centre of the principal room of the suite are three arches, -supported by the side walls and by two wooden fluted columns, and under -the arches are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> heavy portières of double silk, salmon pink on one side, -old gold on the other. The windows are draped elaborately and -beautifully—light blue silk shades, lace curtains next to the windows, -with inner curtains of heavy pale blue silk, lined with silk of a rose -tint. The furniture is of mahogany, upholstered with blue silk plush, -the carpet is a rich moquette in delicate colors, and the toilet set is -in Haviland Limoges decorated in deep blue, white and gold. The ceiling -is daintily frescoed. From its centre depends a three-light electrolier; -from the wall, over the bureau mirror, juts out a bracket with two -electric lamps. The mantel is ornamented with two side pieces of Limoges -and a bronze cathedral clock—a miniature representation of the clock in -the Houses of Parliament, in Westminster. If you do not get from these -notes the idea of a luxurious and tasteful apartment, the fault is not -with those who furnished it, but with the pen which has failed to -describe it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_033.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_033_sml.jpg" width="132" height="118" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span></p> - -<h2>SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Santa Cruz, Cal.</span>, March 27, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>In area, Santa Cruz county is one of the smallest in California, but in -resources, productiveness of soil and natural attractions it might be -called the largest in the State. In its equable climate is grown almost -everything indigenous to the north temperate zone.</p> - -<p>The county is in central California, eighty miles south of San -Francisco; it has a coast line of forty miles, and includes, according -to the United States Government survey, 280,000 acres. So rich is it -that there are not more than five thousand acres of waste land in the -entire county. South of this is the Pajaro Valley, the most fertile spot -of California, called “the wonder of the Pacific.”</p> - -<p>There is not much stock-raising in Santa Cruz county. The mountains, -being heavily timbered, are not adapted to grazing. Nor are citrus -fruits cultivated to any great extent; but the apples of Santa Cruz -county are superior to any grown in the State, the quality of the wine -is unsurpassed in the State, and the remarkable richness of the soil -renders the cultivation of potatoes, beans, hops, sugar beets, etc., -profitable to a degree unknown in less fertile sections. The vegetable -products of the county form one of its most extensive industries. E. S. -Harrison, a trustworthy authority in California history, calls Santa -Cruz “a vegetable wonderland.”</p> - -<p>Let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region by a comparison. -While riding on the Southern Pacific<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> railway over the Texas plains, a -month ago, the travelling auditor of the company, who was on our train, -surprised me by stating that the company is glad to lease its lands at -four cents an acre annually. Land within a couple of miles of where this -is written is leased to Chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre -annually, and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three -hundred dollars.</p> - -<p>The City of Santa Cruz, the principal city and county seat of the -county, lies between the Pacific ocean and the northern side of Monterey -bay, about eighty miles south of San Francisco. It nestles among the -foot-hills of the Santa Cruz mountains, and its outskirts are bathed by -the sea. The city proper has a population of six thousand five hundred, -and if East Santa Cruz is included, the population is about nine -thousand. The city is growing rapidly. New business houses are -constantly going up, capital is coming from the East, and everywhere are -evidences of a steady, healthy increase.</p> - -<p>Santa Cruz has good railroad facilities. Two branches of the Southern -Pacific run here direct. They are called the broad gauge and the narrow -gauge roads. The broad gauge is an important line running through Santa -Clara and Pajaro valleys, passing San José and the larger towns between -San Francisco and Monterey. The narrow gauge runs from San Francisco no -farther south than Santa Cruz. It is more of a local line and stops at -the smaller places—places, however, of such great interest to tourists -as Big Trees. The steamers of the Pacific Steamship Company plying -between San Pedro (near Los Angeles), and San Francisco stop here, -regularly, on their way north and south.</p> - -<p>In writing from Hotel del Monte in Monterey, I mentioned some large oaks -and pines; there are as big and still bigger trees here, or very near -here, at a place appropriately named Big Trees. It is a ten minute ride<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> -on the narrow gauge road of the Southern Pacific, or an hour’s drive by -carriage from Santa Cruz. You need not go to Yosemite, Calaveras or -Mariposa to see giants of the forest; here they are, a grove of 320 -acres, some of the trees 300 feet high and 46 feet in circumference. -These figures are quoted, but I measured a few specimens myself. One -about four feet from the ground was 52 feet in circumference. The -interior of another, “General Fremont,” had been burned out. Four -persons beside myself stood inside of it, and thirty-five more, we -calculated, could have found room in comfort. This measured six feet in -diameter about five feet from the ground—inside measurement—the -“shell” of the tree being probably a foot thick. There are dozens and -scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove, nearly as large.</p> - -<p>The trees are of the famous California Redwood species, the wood hard as -flint and very heavy. The largest specimens are named and bear tablets, -“Daniel Webster,” “General Grant,” “General Sherman,” “Ingersoll’s -Cathedral,” etc. Under the shadow of the last named, the honorable -gentleman held forth one day to an admiring audience. “Big Trees” is -owned by a wealthy widow of San Francisco, Mrs. Walsh.</p> - -<p>Powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest, some of them have -been uprooted by nature’s convulsions and lie humbly and horizontally on -the ground. I noticed that a few of these were charred. The keeper of -the grounds explained that year after year fire had been tried, but the -hardy giants would not yield to flame. They are so thick and hard they -won’t burn as they lie. “Then why not cut them up,” I suggested. “Oh!” -was the answer, “lumber is worth nothing here; it is so plentiful.”</p> - -<p>They have done a little “cutting,” however. In exchange for a dime you -will get a piece of red wood quite heavy enough for your satchel, or a -piece of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket. The bark is -three or four inches thick.</p> - -<p>This is a famous wine country. We visited the tunnels of the “Santa Cruz -Mountain Wine Company,” whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on -the hills. The tunnels are dug out of the soft, sand-stone rock and are -dark and rather cool. That is to say, the air seemed cool when compared -with the atmosphere outside, but as a matter of truth, which is often -stranger than fiction, the thermometer showed the temperature in the -tunnels to be 52 degrees, and it remains at about that figure all the -year round. There are three such tunnels, each 380 feet long, 24 feet -wide, and 18 feet high. The vineyards of the company include two hundred -acres.</p> - -<p>In these deep, cool tunnels the company has stored in great vats no less -than two hundred thousand gallons of wine. Bottle after bottle was -opened for our party and so cheaply was it held that the glasses were -freely washed with the wine as the different kinds were tasted—port, -sherries, clarets and white wines.</p> - -<p>The claret has good body, and if you add a little water to it, as the -French treat <i>vin ordinaire</i>, it makes a very good drink for a thirsty -soul at the dinner table.</p> - -<p>California Angelica has been a popular wine for twenty odd years: the -Angelica produced in Santa Cruz is sweet, smooth, oily and delicious.</p> - -<p>A brand of Sauterne so pleased my palate that I ordered twenty gallons -to be shipped to New York. But I’ll let you into the secret of this -seemingly extravagant order; the price is only one dollar per -gallon—and not Jones, but I, paid the freight. In ordering this wine I -was guided first, by my own taste—it has delicious flavor; secondly, I -felt assured that it was absolutely pure. The grapes are here, on the -spot, ship loads of them, in the season, and there’s no incentive for -adulteration.</p> - -<p>The well-kept roads and fine drives about Santa Cruz<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> are not its least -attractive feature. One of them you can take from the shore, driving -over a bridge of the San Lorenzo river, passing Phelan Park and the twin -lakes, on the borders of which are the summer home and settlement of the -Christian Church. You keep the mountains in view all the way, and a turn -here or there shows you the city, the bay, or the ocean.</p> - -<p>The three-mile cliff drive takes you immediately above the rock-bound -shore of the Pacific, where you see giant crags upon which the -everlasting waves have had their effect. Some of the rocks stand off -from the shore twenty and fifty feet, and through these the powerful -waves have worked great holes, through which the waters rush with a -tumultuous roar, dashing their spray far above. These “natural bridges” -would be considered a rare sight if they were the only feature of this -scene, and would attract people from a distance, but where there is so -much to admire and astonish, they are only one among the many marvels -that here make an embarrassment of pictorial riches.</p> - -<p>The city has two banks, good public schools and water-works; it is -sewered to the ocean, it has horse-cars, fine public buildings, and two -flourishing newspapers, the <i>Sentinal</i> and the <i>Surf</i>. Good society is -not lacking, and beautiful homes abound. Duncan McPherson has a fine -Gothic villa; the residence of Mayor Bowman commands beautiful views of -the bay and the town; the home of William Kerr, two miles out of the -city, is a handsome structure in the Queen Anne style, having two wide -entrances and bay windows, affording extensive views of the valley and -bay. Colonel A. J. Hinds, a pioneer of Santa Cruz, has built himself a -charming home, and Mrs. P. B. Fagen’s house on Mission street, one of -the principal residential streets, attracts the attention of all -passers-by. Other pretty homes are those of D. K. Abeel, R. Bernheim, -Mr. Glover and Mrs. E. J. Green.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span></p> - -<p>Mr. J. Philip Smith, a New York capitalist, who has travelled far and -wide and who passes much of his time in Europe and New York, came here -with his family four years ago, bought a two-acre site upon which a fine -house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed, laying out the -grounds in a tasteful way, making it one of the handsomest residences in -Santa Cruz. It has a high and enviable position near the Sea Beach -Hotel.</p> - -<p>It reminds you at once upon entering it of a Parisian interior and on -closer examination you are not surprised to learn that many of the -things of beauty which adorn the rooms had a French origin. The Smiths -are great travellers and in their journeyings about the world have -“picked up” any number of art works and curios which now find an -appropriate resting place.</p> - -<p>One of the finest views here, one of the most beautiful of its kind in -the State probably, is to be had from Logan Heights, the estate of Judge -J. H. Logan. Judge Logan is president of the Santa Cruz bank and one of -the most esteemed citizens of this section. The house, not imposing -architecturally, stands on a mesa or plateau of about twenty acres, in -which beautiful roses and other choice flowers bloom the year round. -From this elevated position a series of bird’s-eye views are spread out -before you, the extent, beauty and variety of which are not easily -described.</p> - -<p>At this point you are two hundred feet above the Pacific ocean. -Immediately below, in the foreground, is the whole city of Santa Cruz, -with its high school, its gardens, reservoirs, depots, hotels, and its -church spires. To your left, eastward, are the villages Soquel and -Aptos, famous lumber centres. A few miles further off in the same -direction, glistens Monterey bay, backed by the Santa Cruz mountains.</p> - -<p>Southward, beyond the city at your feet, winds the bay of Monterey. Look -twenty miles further south, and, in this clear atmosphere, you see the -sleepy old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> town of Monterey with the mountains as a background for the -picture.</p> - -<p>To your right, westward, is the ocean again—altogether, forming a -number of diversified and beautiful pictures.</p> - -<p>There are a number of good hotels at Santa Cruz—the Pacific Ocean -House, the Wilkins House and Ocean Villa. The last named looks cozy and -comfortable as it stands in its own pretty garden, with a commanding -view. The leading house is that owned by D. K. Abeel, the Sea Beach -House, which he has recently enlarged and reconstructed, putting in all -the modern improvements, and putting in as landlord John T. Sullivan, -who, after securing a long lease, furnished it in good style. It was -designed by G. W. Page, a prominent architect of San José, and presents -a most pleasing appearance, viewed either from the heights or from the -shore, above which it stands nearly one hundred feet, and to which its -grounds, beautifully terraced and ornamented with flowers, gracefully -slope. “Modern improvements,” of course—every room in the Sea Beach -Hotel has running water, but the improvements include hot water also.</p> - -<p>The parlor is on the main floor, in the corner round tower of the -building, and, with its many windows, is uncommonly pleasing. Through or -from these windows you get the best features of the scenery hereabouts, -from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel grounds to Loma Prieta and -the mountains in the distance, or to Monterey, beyond the bay in the -foreground.</p> - -<p>The lessee, Mr. Sullivan, is not unknown to New York. He was a tried -friend of Horace Greeley’s and a trusted officer under Hon. Thomas L. -James in the New York Post-office, in which place he rose after faithful -service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the newspaper -department. Mr. Sullivan has been in Santa Cruz only five or six years. -I saw a modest little two-story<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> building in which he started here, -“keeping boarders,” and he now finds himself in the leading hotel of the -town, owning his own furniture, a fine stable, and with the prospect of -making his fortune. With success Mr. Sullivan has made many staunch -friends, among them the mayor of the town, judges, bank presidents and -other leading citizens.</p> - -<p>The steamship landing is nearer the Sea Beach Hotel than it is to any -other house; the broad guage station is at the door, so to speak, and -the narrow guage station is two minutes walk around the corner. The -house is open all the year. Santa Cruz is attractive in winter, but in -summer it must be delightful.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_034.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_034_sml.jpg" width="167" height="168" alt="NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="REDONDO_BEACH" id="REDONDO_BEACH"></a>REDONDO BEACH.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Redondo Beach, Cal.</span>, March 13, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>New Orleans obtained its sub-title from the crescent shape of its banks -on the Mississippi river. The trend of the Pacific shore here suggested -the pretty name, “Redondo,” in Spanish, signifying round.</p> - -<p>It is midway between Capistrano, south, and Point Duma, north, and is -sixteen miles in a southwest direction from Los Angeles, from which city -there are several trains daily over two roads—the Santa Fé and the new -Redondo Beach railroad. All passenger steamers to and from San Francisco -and way points stop at Redondo.</p> - -<p>Three years ago Redondo was a waste, or at best it was a cattle ranch. -There was not a house nor a hut here, now it is a garden spot of -Southern California. It came into existence as if by magic, as do many -flourishing towns on the Pacific slope.</p> - -<p>Beautifully situated on grounds rising gradually from the ocean, backed -by rich, tillable lands and ranges of green hills, with seaport -facilities not surpassed in California south of San Francisco, its rapid -growth is not surprising.</p> - -<p>The creation of Redondo, according to plans which promise such a -satisfactory result, is due to Californians—men of irrepressible energy -and wide experience in large affairs—Captain J. C. Ainsworth, Captain -R. R. Thompson and Captain George J. Ainsworth, not captains by -courtesy, either. They planned and have established successfully -railroad and steamship lines in Oregon and the northwest.</p> - -<p>That they have ample capital at their command may be judged by a few -figures given at random. Their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> first step was to buy one thousand acres -of land; second, to build a railroad and wharf; third, to secure an -ocean front of <i>one mile</i>, then to erect a hotel four hundred and fifty -feet long to accommodate three hundred people. It was first opened May -1, 1890.</p> - -<p>In the hotel they built a music room, 48 × 80 feet, spending two -thousand dollars simply on an inlaid floor; there is a tennis court -which cost seven thousand dollars; they laid a Portland cement walk from -the station to hotel, sixteen feet wide and a quarter of a mile long, -expending another ten thousand in that way—altogether it is easy to -believe that checks for more than a million have been drawn in the -enterprise. These Californians, with their big trees and their -forty-thousand-acre ranches, do nothing in a small way.</p> - -<p>Do you ask what are the natural attractions of the place? “First, last -and all the time,” there is the almost wonderful climate—genial, balmy -and equable, such as you will find nowhere but in Southern California. -The hotel proprietor tells me that the average winter temperature is 61 -degrees. In case you should not care for figures at second hand, here is -a record from my own thermometer. Yesterday, March 12, noon, 68, this -morning at seven it registered 53; at this writing, eight P.M., 60, the -instrument hanging outside my window.</p> - -<p>The summer here, I am assured, and I firmly believe, is more delightful -than the winter, and the hotel will be kept open the year round. Like -the Hygeia at Old Point Comfort, Redondo attracts people from a distance -in winter; in summer it is largely patronized by residents of San -Francisco, Los Angeles and other cities of the State.</p> - -<p>I do not agree entirely with Mrs. Malaprop that “comparisons are -odorous.” They often serve a very useful purpose in illustration. At any -rate I am given to the habit of comparing, be it a good or a bad habit. -What is large or small, fine or coarse, hot or cold, wet or dry, good or -bad, except by comparison?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span></p> - -<p>For once, however, I am put to my wits’ ends for comparison. Redondo is -like no place on the Atlantic coast, because, although directly on the -seashore, every foot of ground, almost up to the edge of the ocean, is -covered with fine grass; and the most tender flowers grow and flourish -in profusion everywhere, almost within a few feet of the surf. This in -winter, mind you—a Southern California winter, though. It is not so, -even in summer, on the Atlantic coast, in the United States, nor in -England. Yes, I have it: I can indulge in the old habit; the climate of -Redondo is like that in the South of France: in fact it is in the same -latitude: there!</p> - -<p>In the hotel nurseries, which are distant from the surf but a few -hundred feet, you may revel in roses, heliotrope, tulips, mignonette, -daisies, etc. There are tall calla lilies in plenty and the pleasing -sight of acres and acres of pinks of various colors is one that is very -fascinating. The hotel farm of two hundred acres, where choice stock is -kept, supplies the house with more than all the milk, cream, butter, -fruit and vegetables it requires.</p> - -<p>The hotel is only four stories high, yet there is an elevator; of course -electric lights and all modern improvements. Neither is the building -deep, but it has great length, to give views of ocean in front and of -green hills in the rear. It stands north and south thus affording ocean -views from three sides. Of the 225 rooms, every one has a sunny exposure -at some hour of the day; every one is well ventilated and lighted; every -one is an “outside room,” and every guest feels that his is the best -suite in the house.</p> - -<p>The porch is not one straight, unbroken line like the porches of so many -summer hotels in the east. It has a few graceful curves in it and from -it you may watch the craft sailing by—coast steamers to and from San -Francisco and other ports. The golden sunsets you may see from this -porch are such as no artist could represent. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> is not within the -possibilities of paint and canvas to reproduce such gorgeous scenes. On -a clear day without the aid of a glass Catalina island is visible thirty -miles away.</p> - -<p>The dining-room of the hotel juts out in a northerly direction and has -windows on three sides. From a distance it looks as if it might have -been an after-thought in construction, but the architect planned it this -way, to give what was most desired—light, ventilation and pleasing -views, and he succeeded.</p> - -<p>Two hundred and sixty can sit down to dinner at one time.</p> - -<p>There are no loose wardrobes nor clothes presses; all the bedrooms have -closets built in the walls. Every room is supplied with hot and cold -water running into marble basins. Every room has a tiled fireplace in -color and design to match the carpet, and what is also worthy of -mention, the furniture in the bedrooms is not duplicated, nor are the -carpets.</p> - -<p>The drinking water is from an Artesian well. It has been analyzed and -pronounced pure. The plumbing seems to have been done in a careful -manner, and the question of sewerage need give nobody concern. The hotel -stands on a <i>mesa</i>. The refuse goes through an iron pipe and empties -into the sea half a mile from the house.</p> - -<p>There are no better fishing grounds on the coast, so they say. If you -are lucky with the line you may catch bonita, Spanish mackerel, -baracouta, smelt and yellow tails, whatever they are.</p> - -<p>The circular of the Redondo Hotel as to rates merely says, “same as any -first-class hotel.” This is hardly in accordance with the facts, as I -see them. The terms at the Redondo are from three to four dollars per -day, while hotels in the east, of the same class, charge from four to -five dollars. Why such low rates obtain in California hotels is -something I intend to find out before I leave the State. For illustrated -circulars address Redondo Hotel Co., Redondo Beach, Cal.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PASADENA" id="PASADENA"></a>PASADENA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Pasadena</span>, March 10.<br /> -</p> - -<p>People who care more for comfort than for great “style,” who prefer a -quiet, home-like, family house to one of noise and bustle, those who are -seeking health, pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than -the music, dancing and entertainments of a fashionable hotel may jot -down as a memorandum “The Painter Hotel, at Pasadena, Cal,” thirty-five -minutes by train from Los Angeles and fifteen minutes by “free ’bus” -from passenger station.</p> - -<p>It is a new house, was built in ’88; it accommodates seventy-five -boarders, and is owned and kept by J. H. Painter’s Sons. The house is -airy, the bedrooms are comfortably (not luxuriously) furnished, the -parlor is pleasant, the class of guests select, the table is well -provided, and at once, let me say, ere the important fact escapes me, -the rates are remarkably low for the nice appointments and good fare -supplied—only $2.50 per day for transient guests, and from $12.50 to -$17.50 per week to season boarders, for people come to stay for a month -or so—some spend the whole winter here. The house is open the year -round, it being pleasant in summer as well as in winter. It is a -mountainous district, and the ocean, from which come soft winds in -summer, is only thirty minutes’ distant in a south and southwesterly -direction.</p> - -<p>Yes, and here are two more facts—Pasadena is one thousand feet above -the sea, and the Painter Hotel, which is one and a half miles from the -centre of the town, stands on the highest point hereabouts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span></p> - -<p>The grounds comprised in the property include ten acres, upon which the -owners grow their own fruits for the table—peaches, apricots, raisins, -prunes, etc.</p> - -<p>Do you want to visit the town? Street cars pass the door of the Painter. -And if you want a view it will “pay” you to climb up to the roof of the -hotel, where there is an observatory. Three miles off is the Raymond -Hotel, plain to your view in this clear atmosphere. On one side is the -San Bernardino range of mountains, on the other the Sierra Madre range. -You may see San Jacinto, ninety miles away, also Wilson’s Peak, upon -which the new observatory, with its powerful lens, is to be placed; and -beautiful San Gabriel valley is spread out immediately beneath you, a -feature of which, at this writing, are acres of large, orange-hued -poppies, so bright that you could almost imagine them aflame, especially -if the wind is blowing, thus giving vibration to the thin, delicate -leaves.</p> - -<p>The drives are a most delightful feature:—to the city proper, with its -wide avenues of beautiful residences, to San Gabriel mission, and to -“Lucky” Baldwin’s ranch, a pleasant afternoon drive.</p> - -<p>Those who are planning a winter or spring tour will thank me for -suggesting a visit to the Painter House, but if people demand “style,” -if they would dance to orchestral music; if they demand great size in a -dining-room and grandeur in the drawing-room, and they are willing to -pay for it, all these are also obtainable here, or rather at East -Pasadena, which is only three miles distant; eight miles from Los -Angeles. And the price, $4.50 per day, $21 to $28 per week, is -reasonable considering what you get for the money.</p> - -<p>Reference is made to the great Raymond Hotel, which was built in 1886, -where they have a bar, as well as billiards and bowling; elevator, -electric lights, a reception-room, music-room, grand parlor, and a -dining-room which accommodates three hundred persons.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span> From your seat at -table you see “Old Baldy” looming above the clouds eleven thousand feet -and snow-covered ten months out of the twelve, looking like a great -sugar-loaf and recalling the Jungfrau, near Interlaken, Switzerland.</p> - -<p>Like the dining-room of its modest neighbor, the Painter Hotel, every -table in the Raymond is decorated daily with fresh flowers plucked from -the hotel grounds—this is “winter,” mind you. The grounds of the -Raymond cover a space of fifty-four acres, so there is no lack of fruit -(oranges, lemons, etc.), to say nothing of the roses, blue bells, -honeysuckle, dandelions, heliotropes and violets which may be picked <i>ad -libitum</i>—if you don’t regard the painted signs.</p> - -<p>A view from one of the Raymond’s verandas is not much unlike that from -the front steps of the Grand Hotel in the Catskills, only the former is -far more extensive.</p> - -<p>The proprietor of the Raymond is W. Raymond, of Raymond’s Vacation -Excursions, Boston, and the manager is C. H. Merrill, of the Crawford -House, in the White Mountains. The post-office address is East Pasadena, -Cal.</p> - -<p>Orange Grove avenue and Marengo avenue and the paths in the grounds -leading to the houses are lined with luxurious fan palm trees, -interspersed with great cacti and not a few century plants, which it is -proven here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years. The calla -lily, that delicate plant which is so tenderly cared for in the East -that the flower is wrapped in cotton wool, here grows in such profusion -that it is used for hedges. You will see fields of “callas” at Pasadena, -raised for shipment to large cities. The whole of Pasadena is like one -immense garden, a garden city indeed.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pasadena Cottages.</span>—You would scarcely credit it, so I won’t tell you, -that some of the “cottages” in this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span> new place are as large and -elaborate as those on the New Jersey coast, between Seabright and -Elberon, and some of them would not look out of place alongside the -grand Newport “cottages.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Kernaghan, editor of the <i>Pasadena Star</i>, has a fine home here. One -of the prettiest places belongs to and is occupied by Mrs. Kimball, the -widowed daughter of Rufus Hatch of New York.</p> - -<p>Charles Frederick Holder, formerly of New York, came out here six years -ago for his health, and having obtained it has made this his home. He -has a cozy cottage on Orange Grove avenue in which is his study, where -you may find him at his ease, wearing a short black velvet coat or -smoking jacket.</p> - -<p>Mr. Holder is a journalist and littérateur, a frequent contributor to -current magazines and leading newspapers. He has published two or three -brochures on Pasadena. One of his contributions concerning this section -was an illustrated article which appeared in <i>Harper’s Weekly</i>. It was -entitled “The Rose Tournament,” and described a beautiful ceremony which -takes place here annually, on New Year’s day. Mr. Holder’s style is -finished and scholarly and his language choice, with no waste of words. -Being a man of cultivated taste, with a rare poetic fancy, he is at home -here, when treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits and -flowers.</p> - -<p>Among others who have built houses and who occupy country seats at -Pasadena is Governor Markham, of California. A Mr. Nelmes has a lovely -ten-acre place, and with it a generous heart. A sign placed -conspicuously outside his gates reads as follows: “All are welcome to -drive through these private grounds and groves. Eastern tourists are -each invited to pluck one orange.”</p> - -<p>Near the Painter Hotel are many beautiful homes owned by “Eastern -people.” One is owned by Dr. Green, of Woodbury, N. J., another -luxurious place<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> is that of Mr. McNally, of the publishing house in -Chicago of Rand, McNally & Co.</p> - -<p>Professor Low, of Norristown, Pa; J. W. Scoville, a Chicago banker, and -E. T. Hurlburt, a capitalist of Chicago, are owners of fine estates, and -of less notable places there are owners in Pasadena by the hundred.</p> - -<p>It strikes you as rather odd to find winter and summer together, hand in -hand as it were. At your feet flowers; raise your head and snow on the -mountain peaks is visible to the naked eye.</p> - -<p>The one-horse cars which ply between Pasadena and East Pasadena, -California, like some of the one-horse cars of some other cities, have a -driver who acts as conductor also, but the driver in the Pasadena cars -serves as collector as well. There is no automatical nor mechanical -contrivance to receive the fares, nor is there any way of recording -them. When a passenger gets on the driver leaves the front platform, -and, letting the horse take care of himself, or handing the reins to a -front-platform passenger, he runs back and collects the new fare. There -are not many cars on the line—one starts only every half hour—and as -most of the passengers are through passengers, and few get on or off -between the two points named, the animal being very docile, there is no -difficulty in one man doing the whole work. The driver getting on and -off his car reminds me of the elevator in Philp’s Hotel, Glasgow, which -will not budge upward if there are as many as four or five people in the -car. The man who runs it gives the rope a pull, on the ground floor, -then leaves the car, walks up the stairs, getting up to the second or -third flight in ample time to give the rope another pull and to let the -passengers out.</p> - -<p>Some people talk of the winter months in California as “the rainy -season.” This may be an old story, told of what was the case years ago. -It certainly is not true to-day. Examining the records, I find that -from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span> January 5 to February 1 of this year there was no rain at all in -Pasadena, and in all of that time there were but two cloudy -days—January 23 and January 28.</p> - -<p>I have been in Southern California now for about three weeks and have -seen it rain only on two days and one night—two days in Los Angeles and -one night, for one hour, at Coronado Beach.</p> - -<p>I don’t advise you to throw away your umbrella, as did a tourist from -Colorado when coming here, but my experience would show that there is -very little use for such an article in Southern California, even in what -used to be called “the rainy season.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_035.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_035_sml.jpg" width="211" height="154" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LOS_ANGELES" id="LOS_ANGELES"></a>LOS ANGELES</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Los Angeles</span>, March 17.<br /> -</p> - -<p>If you are going from Los Angeles to San Diego, or vice versa, don’t go -by boat unless you have a great affection for the sea. First, you must -change at San Pedro, from cars to boat; second, the waterway occupies -much more time; but what is most important, if you go by rail, over the -Sante Fé route, you get magnificent and diversified views of the ocean, -close views of foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains. -You pass through a fertile country, see picturesque cottages, large -sheep and cattle ranches, and great rifts in the mountains that make you -smile when you think of “gaps” in the east, which are so widely -advertised. The train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles and -recalls similar scenic features of land and water which you admire in -travelling from Aberdeen to Ballater over the “Great North of Scotland -Railway,” a pretty little road with a big sounding name. If you should -have to stop on a switch, or for a “heated journal,” for five or ten -minutes, you can step off the car platform and in a few minutes you can -gather a large bouquet of sweet, wild flowers, among them fragrant -“mignonette” as they call it here. Southern California might well be -named the land of flowers, and this branch of the Sante Fé is entitled -to be called by that much abused term, picturesque.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Florida Oranges “Beaten.”</span>—I wrote last season about some Florida -oranges which Mr. Orvis showed me at the Windsor Hotel, Jacksonville. -The largest of them, if I remember aright, measured thirteen inches in -circumference<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span> and weighed twenty-three ounces. I asked, “who can beat -these?” They are “beaten.” This morning I weighed an orange in Los -Angeles which turned the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured -nineteen and one-quarter inches. This particular orange was light for -its size, because it was not quite ripe nor “full” when picked. It came -from George Bunce’s grove (pray do not print this “grave”) at Rivera, a -small town nine miles from Los Angeles. The grove was only set out in -1888. All the oranges on the tree from which this one was picked were as -large and as heavy as the one described, but there were only three of -them.</p> - -<p>All the ticket brokers’ offices, all the fruit stores, segar shops and -all the shops of small traders and of places patronized by men have -their doors and windows thrown open during business hours. No -“protection” from the weather is needed. It is never cold enough for -closed doors or windows in the daytime. Nor are some of these places of -business closed even at night except by strong iron-wire netting -covering the fronts of the stores. This open feature strikes a visitor -as very strange at first, but one soon becomes accustomed to it. All -through the winter open street cars are used.</p> - -<p>Three years ago, when the Los Angeles boom was at its height, the -foundation was laid near Main street for what was intended to be the -largest hotel in the United States. There it stood and there it stands -to-day (the foundation), the bricks appearing just one foot above the -ground level. These bricks enclose a space of two acres. Pullman, of -sleeping-car fame, was one of those interested, and he says that the -idea has not been entirely abandoned. The idea may yet exist but the -open lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome. Meanwhile Mr. O. -T. Johnson erected a very handsome hotel, The Westminster, on the corner -of Main and Fourth streets, which will accommodate two hundred and fifty -guests. The site of the Westminster is choice;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span> the house contains all -the modern improvements; it is well furnished and well patronized.</p> - -<p>As I write, in my bedroom of the Westminster Hotel, looking north I can -see, without rising from my seat, great high mountains covered with -snow. They present a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere, -with the sun shining upon them.</p> - -<p>That “cranky critic,” as the New York <i>Hotel Gazette</i> calls Max O’Rell, -would be suited at the Westminster Hotel. O’Rell complains because in -American hotels guests have regular seats; that each person upon -entering the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he pleases. -The contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned. A notice is prominently -posted near the elevator which reads: “Positively no seats reserved in -the dining-room.” The waiters are young, intelligent American girls of a -good class, some from New York and some from Nebraska, all uniformed in -white. They look neat and clean, are alert to take an order and quick in -serving it.</p> - -<p>Strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to-day’s luncheon in -the Hotel Westminster. Fresh-picked strawberries are served every -morning for breakfast. Not a dozen or two small, hard berries, such as I -have seen served for a “portion” at hotel tables in Florida during -February, but a saucerful for each guest of large, ripe berries that -have a delicious flavor. Strawberry ice-cream was on the dinner -menu—the cream made, not from “strawberry flavoring,” but of the honest -fruit. Fresh peas and Lima beans figure on the bill, also oranges in -profusion, picked from the groves hard by.</p> - -<p>All the way between New Orleans, La., and Los Angeles, Cal., on the -Southern Pacific railroad, you pay five to ten cents each for oranges; -as soon as you reach Los Angeles, boys with baskets of the golden fruit -swarm about the cars crying out, “Oranges, three for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> nickel, six for -a dime.” If you have a little patience you will hear, “Oranges, eight -for a dime,” and if you wait till the train is about to start you can -get ten for a dime. Possibly after you are out of hearing they are sold -at ten cents a dozen.</p> - -<p>In the cars of the Southern Pacific railroad that run between Los -Angeles and the seaport town of San Pedro appears this printed notice: -“<span class="smcap">Warning</span>:—Passengers are hereby warned against playing games of chance -with strangers, of betting on three card monte, strap, or other games. -You will surely be robbed if you do.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_036.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_036_sml.jpg" width="140" height="170" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_CALIFORNIA" id="THE_CALIFORNIA"></a>THE CALIFORNIA.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">San Francisco</span>, April 1, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>California being one of the largest of these United States, the -Californians thought that their chief city should have large hotels, so -they built in San Francisco the Baldwin House, the Lick House, the -Occidental and larger than any of these, the Palace Hotel, “larger than -any hotel in existence,” it is claimed. Whether this claim is well -founded or not, the Palace is large enough to suit the most extravagant -American ideas. It occupies three acres of ground. It has seven hundred -and fifty-five bedrooms; number of rooms all told, ten hundred and -fifteen.</p> - -<p>But with the growth of the State and the growth of culture and good -taste, Californians and tourists from other States demanded something -above and beyond mere size; and so a few months ago was erected “The -California.” There are several “California Hotels” in San Francisco, in -fact, an old house directly opposite the California now calls itself -“The New California,” probably because the name is new. So many houses -with names near alike give trouble to the Post-office people, but the -title of the house of which I write is simply “The California.”</p> - -<p>It is in a central and accessible part of the city—in Bush street, just -off Kearney street, which runs nearly parallel with Market, being not -far from the <i>Chronicle</i> building, which with its great clock tower -running up hundreds of feet in the air, serves as a finger or sign-post -from many parts of the city.</p> - -<p>The front is of cedar-colored sandstone, and with its modern, low-arched -entrances and high, round towers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> is uncommonly pleasing to the eye. -There are one hundred and forty rooms in the house, and it is nine -stories high, the higher floors being most desirable. The light is -better as you ascend, and the views from the windows across the bay and -the Golden Gate are a constant delight. From my bedroom window I can -plainly see the graceful movements of the white squadron, which, with -the green hills in the far distance make a magnificent picture. The -California was erected by “an estate,” and the estate considered not the -expense. They started out with the idea to build a hotel as near -perfection as possible, and they succeeded.</p> - -<p>Every known precaution is taken against fire. It was the intention from -the first to build a house as proof against fire as men, money and -materials could make it. Scientists were consulted as to sanitation and -plumbing, and to these points special thought and attention were given, -Such luxurious fittings in marble and silver plate I have never seen -surpassed, if equalled; not even in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour -through the South and West, and I have visited hotels that cost all the -way from one to three millions of dollars.</p> - -<p>Instead of marble and brass, which are used so freely in large American -hotels, rare and beautiful woods prevail in decorating the interior of -the new house. The ground floor is finished in quartered oak, the second -in bird’s-eye maple, the third and fourth in sycamore, the fifth and -sixth in red birch, and the seventh, eighth and ninth in oak. The wood -was cut, carved and polished especially for the building, and is of the -most exquisitely beautiful grain.</p> - -<p>Max O’Rell would be pleased. Printed rules are not posted on all the -bedroom doors: it would be an act of vandalism to thrust a nail into -hard wood of such high polish and beautiful grain. The furniture and -carpets harmonize in colors and are very rich: there seems to have been -no thought of economy. The bedrooms are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span> furnished as you would furnish -your own apartment, provided you had a large bank account. They only -lack pictures, mantel ornaments and such dainty etceteras, as you find, -for instance, in the bedrooms of Long’s Hotel in London, to give them a -finished, homelike and elegant air.</p> - -<p>Some idea as to the extent to which this wood decoration is carried, may -be gained when it is told that the wood used to decorate the parlor and -music-room cost six thousand dollars, and yet they are small apartments -when compared, say, with those of the Windsor Hotel, New York.</p> - -<p>The music-room adjoins the parlor, and is only separated from it by a -pair of portières. It is circular, with a frescoed dome. It is only -twenty-four feet in diameter; but a veritable bijou is this music-room. -It has tables and a cabinet of onyx, pieces of statuary and bronze, two -piano lamps and a pedestal upon which stands a vase decorated with -scenes painted by a French artist. The vase itself is three feet high. -There are two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room curtained -in front. Occasionally these recesses are put to a very good use. I have -seen young couples, a modern Claude and Pauline, engaged in very close -conversation behind the curtains, whispering “soft nothings” to each -other. “Soft” without doubt were the words spoken, and, so far as I -heard, they amounted to nothing.</p> - -<p>In the central front wall of this room there is a window, and pendant in -this window is a colored lamp in which electric light is continually -burning. There are similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy -recesses—the scene, with its Moorish surroundings, reminding you of an -Oriental synagogue, in which there is a similar lamp, and in which, -according to Jewish custom in public places of worship, the light is -never allowed to go out. Of electric lamps, there are twenty-five -hundred in the house.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span></p> - -<p>There is a ladies’ waiting-room which is strictly reserved for ladies; -there is a ladies’ billiard-room, as well as one for gentlemen; there is -a banqueting-room for public dinners at the top of the house, and at the -bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a stock of choice -wines valued at twenty thousand dollars.</p> - -<p>The European plan is gaining in popularity in this country. When you -proceed to write your name on the register at the Palace Hotel the clerk -asks, “European or American plan?” At the California no such question is -propounded; it is kept entirely on the European plan.</p> - -<p>But they have a restaurant which is a feature, if not the feature of the -house. It measures 120 × 30 feet, it has tiled floor, mirrored walls, -beautifully decorated ceilings and countless electric lamps. During the -dinner hour a band, stationed in a half-hidden gallery at the end of the -restaurant, performs music that is properly called pleasing—light -selections which suggest good cheer, and which no doubt aid digestion. -The restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the interior, -and such is its popularity that it is patronized by many people who are -not otherwise guests of the house.</p> - -<p>It is equal in style of service to any café I know of—to the Café -Savarin or the Brunswick in New York; in fact, the manager, A. F. -Kinzler, is a son of Francis Kinzler of the Brunswick.</p> - -<p>The question of moustached waiters was easily settled at the California. -They are skilled and experienced French and Swiss waiters, and there was -no demur to the order, shave the upper lip.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="SALT_LAKE_CITY" id="SALT_LAKE_CITY"></a>SALT LAKE CITY.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Salt Lake City, Utah</span>, April 6, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>On the last Sunday of last September I was one among the five thousand -people who enjoyed the masterly eloquence of Spurgeon at his Tabernacle -in London; to-day, Monday, I was in the Mormon Tabernacle, where a -conference was being held, and in which were gathered as many people as -the great building would hold,—seated and standing, twelve thousand.</p> - -<p>Several Mormon elders held forth, but what they said did not -particularly interest me. It was, for the most part, a defense of their -form of “religion,” and they claimed they had a right, in this free -country, to teach and practice their peculiar doctrine.</p> - -<p>The acoustic properties of this great edifice are excellent; I tested -them in different parts of the house, and heard almost every word that -was said by the several speakers. Each spoke but for a short time, ten -or fifteen minutes.</p> - -<p>The most interesting part of Monday’s “session” to my mind was the -musical part, a chorus of two hundred and fifty male and female voices -singing to the rich and powerful tones of what is claimed to be the -largest organ but one in the world.</p> - -<p>A strange feature of the assemblage was the great number of young -children and babes in arms; the crowd of baby carriages in the halls and -entrances being very noticeable.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the Tabernacle, from its oval shape, is often likened to -half an egg bisected lengthwise;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> to me it looks like a tortoise, with -its low curved roof and its remarkably short pillars, only a few feet -apart.</p> - -<p>But it is a mammoth tortoise, 250 × 150 feet, with not a column nor a -pillar to obstruct the view—the largest span of unsupported wooden roof -in the world.</p> - -<p>The Temple in Salt Lake City, the corner-stone of which was laid on the -twelfth of April, 1853, is, like the municipal buildings in -Philadelphia, the City Hall in San Francisco and the Cathedral in -Cologne, still unfinished, although $3,500,000 has been expended in its -construction so far. The Temple’s dimensions are 200 × 100 feet.</p> - -<p>It is built entirely of granite. The towers are beautiful. When -completed they will be 200 feet high. A marble slab 12 × 3 feet is -inserted in the centre tower. Upon that slab appears this inscription in -gold letters:</p> - -<p>“Holiness to the Lord, the house of the Lord. Built by the Church of -Jesus Christ, of latter-day saints. Commenced April 6, 1853. -Completed”—space is left under the word “completed” in which to insert -the date, but that space may not be filled during the next quarter of a -century.</p> - -<p>The first blocks of granite for the building were hauled from the -quarries, a distance of twenty miles, by oxen, but for many years past -the granite has been brought to the city by a railroad planned -originally by Mormons.</p> - -<p>Salt Lake, on account of its unpaved streets, must be miserable as a -place of residence. In wet weather the mud in the streets is from six -inches to two feet deep, and in dry weather the dust is intolerable. It -is probably not quite so bad in these respects as Key West, Florida, but -it is always disagreeable enough. Yet the city is well laid out; all the -streets are over one hundred feet wide; there is a good system of -electric street-cars, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> there are many fine granite and brick -business blocks. Salt Lake has an evident air of prosperity. Its -population has more than doubled in the past ten years. In 1880 it was -20,000; in 1890 45,000.</p> - -<p>Brigham street, the Fifth avenue of Salt Lake, contains not a few -private residences of which any city might be proud.</p> - -<p>The leading hotel is “The Templeton,” owned by a company of which D. C. -Young is president. The manager of the hotel is Alonzo Young. The -president and the manager are both sons of Brigham Young, but are half -brothers only. Brigham sleeps with a couple of his wives in a cemetery a -few hundred feet from the hotel.</p> - -<p>The Templeton is new and substantial, but it was not erected for a -hotel, and it lacks some conveniences which you expect to find. It is -better adapted for an office building, which was its original purpose.</p> - -<p>The dining-room is on the top floor, as is the dining-room of the -Auditorium in Chicago, and the Vendome in New York, and as is the -kitchen of the Windsor Hotel in London.</p> - -<p>From this room in the Templeton, if you secure a choice seat, you get -most magnificent views. You are surrounded by snow-covered mountains, -and to the west you see the principal buildings of the city—the Mormon -Tabernacle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall, all enclosed and fenced -within a ten-acre lot.</p> - -<p>We were unfortunate in the time of our visit to Salt Lake. The city was -crowded on account of the Mormon conference and all the hotels were -full. At the Templeton they had an insufficient number of waiters and -they served saucers of ice cream on warm plates.</p> - -<p>But perhaps we are hypercritical in our notes on the shortcomings of -hotels in Salt Lake; some allowance must be made for the fact that we -had just come from a week at “The California”—that new and beautiful -hotel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> in San Francisco which is kept by A. F. Kinzler, the comforts and -elegancies of which, fresh in our memory and with their flavor, so to -speak, still lingering on our palate, had for the time spoiled us for -less perfect accommodations and an inferior style of living.</p> - -<p>I had occasion to look at the city directory of Salt Lake and in turning -over the leaves I noticed that there are living no less than nine widows -of the lamented apostle of Mormonism, Brigham Young.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_037.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_037_sml.jpg" width="247" height="124" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_AUDITORIUM_HOTEL" id="THE_AUDITORIUM_HOTEL"></a>THE AUDITORIUM HOTEL.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Chicago</span>, May 16, 1891.<br /> -</p> - -<p>During his engagement here I met Mr. Willard, the English actor, walking -on Michigan avenue, with Mr. Hatton, the English dramatist, for -companion.</p> - -<p>“Mr. Willard, where are you staying,” I happened to ask. “At the -Richelieu,” said the handsome and intellectual-looking Englishman. “I -looked at the Auditorium,” he went on to say, “but it appeared to me too -large, and such a stronghold that it almost reminded me of a prison.”</p> - -<p>I am not surprised that its great size was an objection in his eyes, -because Englishmen prefer smaller, quieter and more home-like houses; -those great palaces in Northumberland avenue, London, were built rather -for American patronage. But that the Auditorium looks as solid and -strong as the rock of Gibraltar should not be regarded as an objection. -In the eyes of most people this is a great advantage, especially when we -remember the flimsy character of many of our hotels—those at the -seaside, for instance, or those in small towns, to say nothing of many -make-shift hotels in New York.</p> - -<p>Among other excellent features of the Auditorium building there is this -to commend it: it is called and is believed to be absolutely fireproof. -The first and second story outside walls are of dark granite, the upper -walls are of dark Bedford stone. The materials used interiorly are iron, -brick, terra cotta, Italian marble and hard wood.</p> - -<p>The whole structure covers one and a half acres. It stands on three -streets, Michigan avenue, Wabash<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span> avenue and Congress street, with a -frontage measuring seven hundred and ten feet. The height of the main -building is ten stories; there are eight floors in the tower—two above -the main tower—twenty stories in all; the entire height from street -level to top of tower two hundred and seventy feet. Some authorities -estimate the cost as high as four millions; the lowest estimate I have -seen printed or heard mentioned is three million two hundred thousand -dollars. It is possibly safe to say that about three millions were -invested in the enterprise, and I am told that it has yielded a profit -from the start—the hotel certainly has.</p> - -<p>The structure includes a theatre called “the largest and most -magnificent in the world”—the “Auditorium”—used for conventions and -meetings, having a stage and what is called “the most costly organ in -the world.” Of course, being Western, everything must be the biggest and -costliest. There is also a Recital Hall, which seats five hundred -persons. The business portion of the building includes stores on the -ground floor and one hundred and thirty-six offices above, some of which -are in the tower. The United States Signal Service occupies part of the -seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth floors of the tower. From this -tower you may get an extended view of the city when the fog from the -lake is not dense, and when the chimneys of the town are not emitting -black smoke. The best time to get a view is on a clear Sunday, when many -of the factory fires are extinguished.</p> - -<p>The Auditorium building is owned by “The Chicago Auditorium -Association,” and is managed by them; the hotel proper, which forms only -a part of the great structure, is managed by “The Auditorium Hotel -Company,” and is a separate business concern.</p> - -<p>It is kept on both the European and American plans. For those who choose -the former there is a grand café on the ground floor; for those who -prefer the latter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span> there is a dining-room on the top floor, on which -floor the kitchen is also situated. To the dining-room two elevators are -constantly running. In the whole building there are thirteen elevators: -in the hotel proper there are eight elevators, five for the use of -guests, three for servants.</p> - -<p>Besides the café below, and the public dining-room above, there are a -number of private dining-rooms, and on the sixth floor there is a -banqueting hall which will seat five hundred people and which may be -called magnificent. It is built of steel, on trusses, and spans one -hundred and twenty feet over “The Auditorium.” On the panelled walls are -painted beautiful scenes in oil by skilled artists.</p> - -<p>It does not lack for light, this banqueting hall; it contains four -hundred electric lamps. In fact, the electric plant of the building is -the largest private plant in the world—it is Western, you know. Its -first cost was $100,000 and it costs to operate $175 per day. No -electric department in any place, either public or private, that I have -visited is cleaner, neater or more methodical in system. The tools are -hung on the walls, behind glass doors. No workman may remove a tool -without giving a receipt for the same and the tool must be returned to -its place immediately after it has served the purpose for which it was -removed or the man pays a fine.</p> - -<p>“The office” is not a small, unimportant looking apartment like the -“counting house” of an English hotel. It is after the American style, -large and showy, but there is not a waste nor a wilderness of space as -there is in some Chicago hotels, the “offices” in some of the Chicago -houses being used not only for a public rendezvous but also for a public -thoroughfare—people pass through them in going from one street to -another to save themselves the trouble of walking around the block.</p> - -<p>The floor of the office of the Auditorium Hotel is of Italian -marble—mosaic work in artistic designs. To go<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span> into figures again, -there are of mosaic floors in the house fifty thousand square feet, -containing fifty million separate pieces of marble, each piece put in by -hand. The ceiling, which is richly decorated, and from which depend -numberless electric lights, is supported in the centre by five marble -columns nine feet in circumference. The chairs and sofas, here and -there, are of oak, plush-covered, and the walls are of nothing less -luxurious than Mexican onyx, than which for the purpose probably no -material is richer. Leading from the office to the parlor floor there is -a white marble staircase twelve feet wide. This combination of rich -materials and artistic work, with ample space, gives the Auditorium -office a gorgeous, yes, a palace-like appearance.</p> - -<p>The dining-room on the tenth floor, measuring 175 by 48 feet, affords -extended views of the lake and a stretch of Chicago’s grand boulevard, -Michigan avenue, as far as the eye can reach. The lower part of its -walls is of mahogany panels; the six massive pillars which support the -ceiling are of mahogany, the tables and chairs and Venetian blinds of -the same costly wood. As well as six pillars, there are six arches in -this room, which also has an arched ceiling. The walls above the -mahogany dado up to the ceiling are in yellow and gold, the ceiling -delicately and beautifully frescoed.</p> - -<p>On one of the semi-circular arched walls above the mahogany pillars -which support it, is painted a lake fishing scene, on the other a -duck-shooting scene. The latter is taken from the estate of Ferd. W. -Peck at Lake Oconomowoc, Wisconsin. It represents two or three men in -sporting costume in a canoe, which is half hidden by tall grass and cat -tails. The man in the bow stands ready to take aim at a flock of ducks -which are preparing for flight. Mr. Peck is one of the originators of -the Auditorium enterprise and the present president of the company.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span></p> - -<p>There are five hundred electric lights in the dining-room; the floor is -of marble mosaic. For the American plan two dinners are served. You can -take your choice or eat both if your appetite serves; first dinner, from -twelve till two; evening dinner from six to eight.</p> - -<p>The bedrooms are heated by steam and also have fireplaces. Of course, -they are lighted by electricity. The bedroom in which this is penned -measures twenty-one by thirteen feet. As there is no step-ladder at hand -I must guess at the height of the ceiling—about fourteen feet. The -dimensions given do not include a very large clothes closet built in the -wall and a very small washroom, too small, indeed, but supplied with hot -and cold water. On either side of this bedroom are similar rooms each -having two heavy, double doors of oak, so that while the rooms are -“communicating” the sound is not “communicated” from one room to the -other.</p> - -<p>The walls are painted and frescoed in tints to match the wood-work, -which is of light varnished oak. Part of the furniture is of dark, -highly polished oak, the rest of cherry, covered with olive or old gold -plush. These hues in turn match the Wilton carpet which is bordered, and -upon which, here and there, is a handsome rug.</p> - -<p>The curtains are of reddish-brown plush, lined with old-gold silk; -inside these are lace curtains, and against the windows are Venetian -blinds of oak. The windows are of plate glass, large and massive—much -too heavy, in fact, or else the sashes are not put in by a master hand. -They are raised or lowered with great difficulty, notwithstanding a pair -of brass handles is attached to each lower sash. For such large, weighty -windows they have a better plan in the Windsor Hotel, London. Long, -loose ropes with light, wooden handles attached are fastened to the -upper and lower parts of the upper sash,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> and by this method the heavy -windows are raised or lowered with perfect ease.</p> - -<p>But I have wandered away in thought from my apartment in the Auditorium, -which is lighted by a handsome, seven-lamp electrolier pendant from the -ceiling, with a convenient tap just inside the door to turn on or off as -you enter or leave the room.</p> - -<p>There is an electric dial in each room, the invention of the New Haven -Clock Company. Upon this dial the inventor and hotel-keeper combined -have anticipated as many as twenty-four wants of the guest, from a -chambermaid to a doctor; from a telegraph blank to a hansom cab. Max -O’Rell may poke fun at this anticipation of so many wants in American -hotels, but if they had such an arrangement in Continental hotels, their -system would be greatly improved.</p> - -<p>You need not trouble yourself about good air or bad air at the -Auditorium: the house is ventilated automatically, by machinery. Among -other modern improvements is a letter chute which extends to the top of -the house. Your letters from any floor drop into a locked United States -post-office box, opened at intervals by the official carrier.</p> - -<p>There are four hundred and fifty rooms. As hotel men usually reckon -“about one and a half guests to a room” there is accommodation for six -hundred people. Charge for rooms: European plan, $2 to $5 per day; -American plan, $4 to $6 per day.</p> - -<p>The house is managed by James H. Breslin and R. H. Southgate. It is not -necessary to explain who these men are, and to commend them, at this -late day, would be no compliment.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="MAX_ORELL_ON_AMERICAN_HOTELS" id="MAX_ORELL_ON_AMERICAN_HOTELS"></a>MAX O’RELL ON AMERICAN HOTELS.</h2> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>M. Paul Blouet (Max O’Rell) is a brilliant writer and a clever, -entertaining talker, but in his article in the <i>North American Review</i> -for January, 1891, entitled “Reminiscences of American Hotels,” he shows -that he lacks fairness as a critic, and that he writes without the -necessary knowledge of his subject. His remarks concerning the American -methods of conducting hotels may be amusing, but when he makes -comparisons between English and American hotels and their systems, it is -evident that as a critic he is open to criticism. In his opening page he -says:</p> - -<p>“When you enter a hotel not a salute, not a word, not a smile of -welcome. The negro takes your bag and makes a sign that your case is -settled. You follow him. For the time being you lose your personality -and become No. 375, as you would in jail.”</p> - -<p>The facts are just the contrary. The clerks, porters and waiters in -American hotels are only too glad if they can learn your name. They will -pronounce it and announce you on the smallest possible provocation. Max -O’Rell’s remarks on this point would exactly fit if he were writing -about some large hotels in London patronized by Americans. At those -houses, the Langham excepted, you do not enter your name in a register, -and you are known only by the number of the room you occupy. If a friend -calls, his card will be carried about on a silver salver by a little -page whose duty it is, in going through the halls and public rooms in -search of you, to bawl out at the top of his voice not your name, but -the number of the apartment you occupy; and to this you are expected to -respond.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span></p> - -<p>But people are not so apt to know the hotel customs which obtain in -cities where they live, and that may account for M. Blouet’s ignorance.</p> - -<p>This French-English humorist tries to make it appear that in every -American hotel the fire-escape consists of “twenty yards of coiled -rope.” I believe that the New York State Legislature expects all hotels -in that State to make such provision, but if it is done in New York it -is certainly not the case in other States, as I know, for I have lived -at hotels in many States of the Union during the past few months, -westward as far as California, and as far south as New Orleans.</p> - -<p>Mr. O’Rell feels very much injured because order and method reign in the -dining-room. He says:</p> - -<p>“When you enter the dining-room you must not believe you can go and sit -where you like. The chief waiter assigns you a seat and you must take -it. I have constantly seen Americans stop on the threshold of the -dining-room and wait until the chief waiter had returned from placing a -guest to come and fetch them in their turn. I never saw them venture -alone and take an empty seat without the sanction of the waiter.”</p> - -<p>Chaos would reign indeed if the regular guests of a hotel had no regular -seats, and if every newcomer were allowed to sit where he pleased. Of -course the head waiter assigns seats. This good custom obtains in -England and France as it does elsewhere; without it there would be -confusion for all concerned.</p> - -<p>It would be strange if such a close and keen observer, as Max O’Rell -certainly is, did not make some good points in such a labored article. -He makes one when he objects to the solemn, almost funereal air which -pervades an American dining-room. People can be well mannered and yet be -and appear to be, in good spirits, whereas we seem to make a business, a -sad business of eating—it cannot be called “dining.” You seldom or -never hear such a thing as a laugh in our hotel dining-rooms,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span> and yet -everybody knows that laughter is the best aid to digestion. There is a -time for everything, and when should there be good cheer if not at -dinner time?</p> - -<p>O’Rell shows that he is unfair and uninformed when he is discussing some -of the important features of our hotels, but he scores another good -point when he talks of the shameful waste of food in American hotels. I -quote in full his remarks on that head. They cannot be too often -repeated:</p> - -<p>“The thing which, perhaps, strikes me most disagreeably in the American -hotel dining-room is the sight of the tremendous waste of food that goes -on at every meal. No European, I suppose, can fail to be struck with -this; but to a Frenchman it would naturally be most remarkable. In -France where, I venture to say, people live as well as anywhere else, if -not better, there is a perfect horror of anything like waste of good -food. It is to me, therefore, a repulsive thing to see the wanton manner -in which some Americans will waste at one meal enough to feed several -fellow creatures.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_038.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_038_sml.jpg" width="208" height="123" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big2"><span class="sans">THE HOME JOURNAL,</span></p> - -<p class="c">A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OF</p> - -<p class="unc">LITERATURE, ART AND SOCIETY,</p> - -<p class="c">FOUNDED IN 1846 BY THE WELL-KNOWN POETS,</p> - -<p class="c">GEO. P. MORRIS AND N. P. WILLIS,</p> - -<p class="nind">retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and art culture -which gives grace and refinement to social intercourse.</p> - -<p>Readers at a distance will find the best life of the metropolis -reflected in its pages. It is also in an especial sense an</p> - -<p class="unc">INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL,</p> - -<p class="nind">and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers into touch with -the social life of the</p> - -<p class="unc">GREAT EUROPEAN CENTRES OF CULTURE.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Home Journal</span> contains more advertisements of <span class="sans">SUMMER AND WINTER -RESORT HOTELS</span>, and devotes more editorial space to them than any other -newspaper.</p> - -<p>It has particular value as an advertising medium for <span class="sans">EUROPEAN HOTELS</span>, -being the organ of cultivated and fashionable Americans—those who pass -their summers in Europe.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> -<p class="cb"><span class="smcap">Published every Wednesday.</span></p> - -<p class="cb"> -<span class="smcap">Subscription, $2.00 per Year.</span> <span class="smcap">Five Cents a Copy.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<p class="cb">MORRIS PHILLIPS & CO., Publishers,</p> - -<p class="r"> -240 Broadway, New York.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_039.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_039_sml.jpg" width="140" height="91" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="big3"><span class="sans">DEMPSEY & CARROLL,</span></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/dempsey.png" width="500" height="23" alt="" title="" /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr valign="top"> -<td class="unc"><span class="sans">THE<br /> -ART STATIONERS<br /> -AND<br /> -ENGRAVERS,</span></td> -<td valign="middle"> -<img src="images/star.png" -width="30" -alt="" -/> </td> -<td class="unc" ><span class="sans">UNION SQUARE,<br /> -36<br /> -EAST 14TH STREET,<br /> -NEW YORK CITY.</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/dempsey2.png" width="500" height="23" alt="" title="" /> -</p> - -<p class="csans">CORRECT STYLES.</p> - -<p class="cb">WEDDING INVITATIONS & ANNOUNCEMENTS<br /> -RECEPTION & VISITING CARDS.</p> - -<p class="csans"><span class="smcap">High Grade Stationery</span>,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="sans">MONOGRAM, ADDRESS AND HERALDIC DIES.</span></p> - -<p class="csans">HAND PAINTED</p> - -<p class="cb"><span class="smcap">Menus and Dinner Cards.</span></p> - -<p class="csans">RICH LEATHER GOODS,</p> - -<p class="csans">PLAIN AND SILVER MOUNTED.</p> - -<p class="cb">IMPORTED STATIONERY NOVELTIES.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c">THE</p> - -<p class="cb">“<span class="smcap">World’s Greatest Passenger Train</span>.”</p> - -<p class="c">This proud title has been bestowed by an appreciative public on the</p> - -<p class="big3"> -<a href="images/ill_040.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_040_sml.jpg" -alt="PENNSYLVANIA LIMITED." /></a> -</p> - -<p>It is well deserved because the train affords more conveniences, more -comforts and more luxuries than any other train in the world. One may -eat, sleep, work or transact business as if in hotel or club. To this -end there are luxurious sleeping cars, dining cars, ladies’ maids, bath -rooms for both sexes, a barber shop, financial news and stock reports, -stenographers and type writers, United States Mail boxes and a library.</p> - -<p class="c">* * *</p> - -<p>IT is the favorite train between New York and Chicago, and a trip on it -is a long-remembered leasure tour.</p> - -<p class="c">* * *</p> - -<p>THE Pennsylvania Limited leaves New York from the Pennsylvania Railroad -Station, foot of Desbrosses and Cortlandt Streets, every morning at 10 -o’clock for Chicago and Cincinnati.</p> - -<p class="c"> -J. R. WOOD,<br /> -<i>General Passenger Agent</i>.<br /> -<br /></p> - -<p class="hang">CHAS. E. PUGH,<br /> -<i>General Manager</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"> -<a href="images/ill_041.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_041_sml.jpg" -alt="ATLANTIC COAST LINE" /></a> -</p> - -<p class="big2">SHORT LINE</p> - -<p class="c"> -——<span class="sans">BETWEEN</span>——<br /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td>BOSTON,<br /> - -NEW YORK, </td> - -<td>PHILADELPHIA,<br /> -BALTIMORE,</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">WASHINGTON,</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c"> -——<span class="sans">AND</span>——</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td>RICHMOND,<br /> - - WILMINGTON,<br /> - CHARLESTON,<br /> -THOMASVILLE,<br /> - JACKSONVILLE,<br /> - ST. AUGUSTINE,<br /> - PUNTA GORDA,</td> - -<td>SAVANNAH,<br /> - BRUNSWICK,<br /> - ALBANY,<br /> -PALATKA,<br /> - SANFORD,<br /> - TAMPA,</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c"> -<b><span class="sans">ALL FLORIDA POINTS, AND HAVANA CUBA.</span></b><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="csans">EASTERN OFFICES:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td><i>229 Broadway, New York.</i><br /> - -<i>228 Washington St., Boston.</i><br /> -</td> -<td><i>33 South 3d St., Philadelphia.</i><br /> -<i>106 East German St., Baltimore.</i><br /></td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2"><i>511 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington.</i></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="c"> -——TO ALL——<br /> -<big><big><span class="sans">WINTER RESORTS</span></big></big><br /> -——IN——<br /> -South Georgia, Florida, Cuba, the West Indies and Mexico,<br /> -Via HAVANA, CUBA,<br /> -REACHED BY THE<br /> -<big><big><big> - -<a href="images/ill_042.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_042_sml.jpg" -alt="Plant System" - /></a></big></big></big><br /> -——OF——<br /> -<i>RAILWAY AND STEAMSHIP LINES</i>,<br /> -</p> - -<p>In connection with Pennsylvania R. R., via New York, Washington and -Atlantic Coast Railways, and with the principal railway lines between -all cities of the West and South-west, forming through train and -sleeping-car service, and</p> - -<p class="c"> -<b>JACKSONVILLE, ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA AND<br /> -PORT TAMPA, FLORIDA.</b><br /> -<br /> -FAST AND COMMODIOUS STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN<br /> -</p> - -<p>Port Tampa, Key West and Havana; Port Tampa and Mobile; Port Tampa and -St. James City (Pine Island), Punta Rassa, Fort Myers, Naples, and -resorts of the Gulf Coast; Port Tampa and Manatee River.</p> - -<p>The magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel, at Tampa, and the Seminole, at Winter -Park, on the South Florida R. R., are open during the season of Winter -Tourist travel, and are maintained at a high standard of excellence.</p> - -<p>The Inn at Port Tampa is open the entire year, and is in an attractive, -healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival and -departure of steamers and trains.</p> - -<p>For further information apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to</p> - -<p class="r"><span class="sans"> -J. D. HASHAGEN, <span class="smcap">Eastern Agent</span>,<br /> -261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="csans">FRED. ROBLIN, <span class="smcap">Traveling Pass. Agent</span>,<br /> -261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.<br /> -</p> -<p class="r"> -H. B. PLANT, <span class="smcap">President</span>,<br /> -12 WEST <span class="smcap">23D</span> STREET, NEW YORK.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"><span class="smcap">The DE SOTO</span>,</p> - -<p class="csans">SAVANNAH, GA.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_043.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_043_sml.jpg" width="306" height="197" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>One of the most elegantly appointed hotels in the world. Accommodations -for 500 guests. Special rates for families and parties remaining a week -or longer. Tourists will find Savannah one of the most interesting and -beautiful cities in the entire South. No place more healthy or desirable -as a winter resort.</p> - -<p>Send for Descriptive Illustrated Booklet.</p> - -<p class="r"> -WATSON & POWERS.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="un">PARIS.</span> -<span style="margin:auto 2em auto 2em;"><b>HOTEL</b> </span> -<span class="un">PARIS.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="cb"> -<big><big><big><span class="smcap">Anglo-Français</span>,</big></big></big><br /> -<br /> -<big>6 RUE CASTIGLIONE. 6</big><br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_044.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_044_sml.jpg" width="283" height="176" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>This first-class Hotel, situated in the -best part of the metropolis, opposite -the Hotel Continental and the Tuileries -Gardens, is highly recommended for -comfort, cuisine, moderate charges and -sanitary arrangements; Otis American -elevator.</p> - -<p class="r"> -VARGUES, Proprietor.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"> -<a href="images/ill_045.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_045_sml.jpg" -alt="HOTEL BINDA," /></a> -</p> - -<p class="c">11 rue de L’Echelle,</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Avenue de L’Opera</span>, <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><b>PARIS</b>.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><big>Large</big> and small apartments; lift to each floor; smoking and -drawing-room; bathroom on each floor; table d’hôte, 6 francs, from 6 to -8 o’clock, at separate tables; restaurant a la carte.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="c">ADVANTAGEOUS ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH FAMILIES WINTERING IN PARIS.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="c">Electric Light all over the House.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap"><span class="sans">CHARLES BINDA</span>, Proprietor</span>,<br /> -Late with Delmonico, New York.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"> -London, Chatham and Dover</p> -<p class="csans">RAILWAY.<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="cb"><big><big>A. THORNE,</big></big><br /> -Formerly at H. B. Claflin & Co.’s, New York,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">American Representative in England</span>,<br /> -<br /> -<big>London, Chatham <small>AND</small> Dover Railway,</big><br /> -<span class="smcap"><span class="sans">Victoria Station, London, S. W.</span></span>,<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><big>A</big>ttends the arrival of the principal steamships at Liverpool and -Southampton, and arranges for Special Saloon Carriages upon either the -North Western and Midland Railways from Liverpool, or by the South -Western Railway from Southampton to London, and thence to Dover from -Victoria Station by the <b>London, Chatham and Dover Railway</b>. From Dover to -Calais (the shortest sea passage to France) by the magnificent S.S. -“Calais-Douvres,” “Empress,” “Victoria,” and “Invicta,” owned and -controlled solely by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway Company.</p> - -<p>A. THORNE secures Private Deck Saloons, and from Calais to Paris and -other prominent points Special Saloons and Sleeping Cars as required.</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="csans"><b>TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: “CALDOVER,” LONDON.</b></p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>The London, Chatham and Dover Company’s trains run from Victoria, St. -Paul’s and Holborn Stations through the prettiest and most picturesque -parts of Kent, and passengers have the privilege of stopping over at -Rochester to visit the Cathedral and the Castle, and at Canterbury to -view the Cathedral (containing the tomb of the martyr Thomas à Becket), -and other places of interest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big2"> -<span class="smcap">Are You Going to Europe?</span></p> - -<p class="cb"> - -EDWIN H. LOW,<br /> -Low’s Exchange and General Steamship Office,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><span class="sans">947 Broadway, Madison Square,—New York.</span></span><br /> -<span class="smcap"><span class="sans">57 Charing Cross, Trafalgar Square, London.</span></span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"><b>Choice Berths</b> secured on <b>ALL LINES</b> without <b>extra charge</b>.</p> - -<p class="c">Cabin plans of all European and Coastwise Steamers on file, and complete -list of sailings of all Lines to any part of the world. Full and -reliable information given.</p> - -<hr class="srht" /> - -<p class="cb">WHILE IN EUROPE</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p class="nind">have all your Letters and Cables sent care of Low’s Exchange, 57 Charing -Cross, Trafalgar Sq., London; they will be registered and numbered by -<b>Mr. Low’s own system</b>, whereby it is practically impossible for one to go -astray or be lost. They are promptly forwarded to any part of Europe, -according to instructions.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_047.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_047_sml.jpg" width="292" height="281" alt="NELSON MONUMENT.—View from Low’s Exchange." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NELSON MONUMENT.—View from Low’s Exchange.</span> -</div> - -<p class="c">POSTAL RATES: 1 year, $10.00; -6 mos., $5.00; -3 mos., $2.50; -1mo., $1.00</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Low’s Exchange in London is established for the general convenience of -travelers. Railway and Steamship Tickets—to all parts—issued. Baggage -stored and checked, passports, steamer chairs, foreign moneys, letters -of credit cashed, American news and newspapers, &c.</p> - -<p class="csans">LOW’S POCKET CABLE CODE</p> - -<p class="nind">is a handy little volume published by Mr. Low for cipher cabling. The -cost of cabling is twenty-five cents per word. By purchasing two copies -of this code you have 10,000 cipher words and phrases by which you can -reduce the expense at least four-fifths. It is alphabetically arranged -and so simple that anyone without the least knowledge of codes can -understand it. <b>Price, 50 Cents, bound in Cloth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span></b>.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="csans"> -THE CALIFORNIA,</p> - -<p class="cb"> -BUSH STREET, NEAR KEARNY,<br /> -SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.<br /> -<small>THE ACME OF PERFECTION ATTAINED IN AMERICAN HOTELS.</small><br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_048.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_048_sml.jpg" width="301" height="309" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>It is a recognized fact that San Francisco has made, from time to time, -the greatest effort to surpass all other cities in her Hotel -accommodations, and it must be conceded that the acme of perfection has -now been reached.</p> - -<p>The California was opened last December, and there is nothing on the -Pacific Coast, so far as artistic taste, elegance of appointments and -lavish expenditure go, which can compare with it.</p> - -<p>The California is unsurpassed in style of service by the best hotels of -the United States. Heretofore there has been no strictly European-plan -hotel in San Francisco.</p> - -<p>A visit to this city is incomplete without seeing the California, -unquestionably the most beautiful and luxuriously furnished hotel in -America.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="sans">A. F. KINZLER, <span class="smcap">Manager</span>.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big2">MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA.</p> - -<hr style="width: 95%;" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_049.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_049_sml.jpg" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="cb"> -MIDWINTER SCENES<br /> -<br /> -AT THE CELEBRATED<br /> -<br /> -<big><big>Hotel del Monte,</big></big><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sans">MONTEREY, CAL.</span><br /> -<br /> -AMERICA’S FAMOUS SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT.<br /> -ONLY 3-1/2 HOURS FROM SAN FRANCISCO<br /><small> -<i>By Express Trains of the Southern Pacific Company.</i></small><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p><b>Rates for Board</b>: By the day, $3.00 and upward. Parlors, from $1.00 to -$2.50 per day, extra. Children, in children’s dining-room, $2.00 per -day.</p> - -<p><b>Particular Attention</b> is called to the <i>moderate charges</i> for -accommodations at this magnificent establishment. The extra cost of a -trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference in -rates at the various Southern Winter Resorts and the incomparable <span class="smcap">Hotel -del Monte</span>.</p> - -<p><b>Intending Visitors</b> to <b>California</b> and the <b>Hotel del Monte</b> have the choice -of the <b>“Sunset,” “Central,” or “Shasta” Routes</b>. These three routes, the -three main arms of the great railway system of the <b>Southern Pacific -Company</b>, carry the traveler through the best sections of California, and -any one of them will reveal wonders of climate, products and scenery -that no other part of the world can duplicate. For illustrated -descriptive pamphlet of the hotel, and for information as to routes of -travel, rates for through tickets, etc., call upon or address <b>E. HAWLEY</b>, -Assistant General Traffic Manager, Southern Pacific Company, <b>343 -Broadway, New York</b>.</p> - -<p><i>For further information, address</i></p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>GEORGE SCHÖNEWALD, Manager Hotel del Monte</i>,<br /> -<i>OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND</i>. -<span class="sans"><b>MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA</b></span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big2"> -<a href="images/ill_050.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_050_sml.jpg" alt="REDONDO HOTEL" /></a> -</p> - -<p class="nind"><big>T</big>his new but already popular seaside resort is located on the Pacific -Ocean, under the shelter of the prominent headland known as Point -Vincent, while to the south and east are the Palos Verdes and other -hills.</p> - -<p>The Redondo Hotel has been spoken of as the “crowning effort of all -hotels on the Pacific Coast,” covering over an acre of ground, reposing -gracefully upon a slight eminence “where the broad ocean leans against -the land,” with fine vistas of sea and shore meeting the eye in all -directions. Of the 225 rooms, every one has a sunny exposure at some -hour of the day, every one is well ventilated and lighted, every one is -an “outside room,” and every guest feels that his is the best suite in -the house.</p> - -<p>The building is supplied throughout with modern improvements. It has -incandescent electric lights in all the rooms and arc lights on the -grounds. There is cold and hot water and grates in every room. The halls -and lobby are heated by steam. The latest and most improved hydraulic -elevators are in use.</p> - -<p>On the hotel grounds is the best tennis-court in the State, -well-arranged and complete in every detail, with club-room, baths, etc. -There is also a nursery of several acres and a large green-house, where -the most beautiful and delicate flowers bloom the year round, and the -hotel draws from this source the freshness and fragrance of perpetual -spring.</p> - -<p>Redondo Beach is cooler than Cape May in summer, it is warmer than San -Fernandino in winter. The temperature of the water of the ocean varies -less than ten degrees in the course of a year, and surf bathing is -always enjoyable. The bathing beach is the finest on the coast, and is -provided with a commodious bath-house and every appliance for the -convenience and safety of the bathers.</p> - -<p>Special rates made for families and permanent guests.</p> - -<p>For further information address</p> - -<p class="r"> -<b><span class="sans">REDONDO HOTEL CO.</span></b>,<br /> -Redondo Beach, California.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_051.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_051_sml.jpg" width="439" height="224" alt="The Sea Beach Hotel" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Sea Beach Hotel</span> -</div> - -<p>The Sea Beach Hotel has large, light rooms, affording extensive views, -wide verandas, surf bathing, fishing. Livery. Electric lights and -electric bells. Rates from $2.50 per day. Illustrated Souvenir mailed -free. Address</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="sans">JOHN T. SULLIVAN, <span class="smcap">Proprietor</span>.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"> -WINDSOR HOTEL,</p> - -<p class="cb"> - -NEW YORK.<br /> -<br /><small> -<span class="sans">HAWK & WETHERBEE.<br /> -———<br /> -CONVENIENTLY SITUATED ON FIFTH AVENUE, NEAR THE GRAND<br /> -CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, ELEVATED AND SURFACE<br /> -TRAMWAYS, THEATRES, PLACES OF AMUSEMENT,<br /> -CHURCHES AND CLUBS.<br /> - -———<br /> - -HAS BEEN RECENTLY FITTED THROUGHOUT<br /> -WITH THE LATEST MODERN SANITARY<br /> -PLUMBING.<br /> -———<br /> -THE DRINKING WATER USED IS CHEMICALLY PURE AND THE ICE<br /> -IS MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER.<br /> -———<br /> -CUISINE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED.<br /> -———<br /> -COOL AND ATTRACTIVE IN SUMMER.<br /> -———<br /> -COMFORTABLE AND HOME-LIKE IN WINTER.<br /> -———<br /> -STAGES WHEN DESIRED, WILL MEET ALL STEAMERS AND CONVEY<br /> -PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE DIRECT TO THE<br /> -HOTEL AT MODERATE CHARGES.<br /> -———<br /> -RAILWAY TICKETS, SLEEPING CAR AND DRAWING-ROOM CAR<br /> -ACCOMMODATIONS CAN BE SECURED IN THE HOTEL; CABLE<br /> -AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, RUSSIAN AND TURKISH<br /> -BATHS, AND EVERY COMFORT AND<br /> -CONVENIENCE FOR TRAVELERS.<br /> -———<br /> -WELL-LIGHTED AND VENTILATED SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS, CORRIDORS,<br /> -DRAWING-ROOMS AND PARLOR SUITES, SINGLE<br /> -OR DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHS.<br /> -———<br /> -ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.</span></small> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="csans">YOUR ADVERTISING<br /> -IS SOLICITED.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_052.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_052_sml.jpg" width="239" height="238" alt="HICKS’ NEWSPAPER -ADVERTISING AGENCY." /></a> -</div> - -<p class="sans">Estimates, containing Selected Lists of Suitable Publications with Rates -for Advertising, furnished free on application.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big2">AUDITORIUM HOTEL,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_053.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_053_sml.jpg" width="210" height="201" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="c">Michigan Ave., Congress St., and Wabash Ave.,</p> - -<p class="csans"><span class="un">CHICAGO.</span></p> - -<p>The most massive hotel structure in the world, built entirely of stone -and iron, ten stones high, absolutely fire-proof. Overlooking Lake -Michigan, situated within four blocks of the business centre of the -city. American and European plans.</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="sans">BRESLIN & SOUTHGATE.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="big2">GILSEY HOUSE,</p> - -<p class="c">Corner Broadway and Twenty-Ninth Street,</p> - -<p class="unc">NEW YORK.</p> - -<p class="c"> -European Plan.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="sans">J. H. BRESLIN & CO., PROPRIETORS.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>ANNOUNCEMENTS.</i></p> -<hr /> - -<p class="big3"><span class="smcap">Visitors to Europe!</span></p> - -<p class="csans">CIRCULAR CREDITS. - FOREIGN EXCHANGE.</p> - -<p><i>Cheque Bank Cheques are the most convenient of Exchange to carry.</i></p> - -<p><i>They are issued in books from £10 up to any amount.</i></p> - -<p><i>They can be cashed at 3,000 Banks and 1,000 Hotels.</i></p> - -<p><i>They are cashed in the currency of the country visited, free of -commission.</i></p> - -<p><i>They are no good until signed.</i></p> - -<p><i>Special letters of identification are issued.</i></p> - -<p><i>Travellers’ mail matter promptly attended to without charge.</i></p> - -<hr class="srhtt" /> - -<p>Send for circulars and testimonials, list of Banks and Hotels, etc., or -apply to</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="sans">E. J. MATHEWS & CO.,</span><br /> -Bankers’ Agents,<br /> -<span class="sans">2 WALL ST., NEW YORK.</span><br /> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><a name="transcrib" id="transcrib"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th class="c">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="left">laden four-house truck=> laden four-horse truck {pg 22}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">previous arragements=> previous arrangements {pg 48}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">but it it worth half=> but it is worth half {pg 55}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">where they had aparments=> where they had apartments {pg 57}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">in their minuest detail=> in their minutest detail {pg 63}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">but a concensus=> but a consensus {pg 89}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">an Amerian host=> an American host {pg 96}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">not actuatly fond=> not actually fond {pg 104}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">describing the <i>modus operandi</i>=> decribing the <i>modus operandi</i> {pg 110}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Nelson moument, the city prison=> Nelson monument, the city prison {pg 112}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">more commandiug site=> more commanding site {pg 112}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">his later opportunies=> his later opportunities {pg 121}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thoroughly agreeably place=> thoroughly agreeable place {pg 126}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">that you most come a little later=> that you must come a little later {pg 158}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">the new Oglethrope at Brunswick;=> the new Oglethorpe at Brunswick; {pg 156}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">the Oglethrope=> the Oglethorpe {pg 168}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">its cleanly and aristocratic air=> its clean and aristocratic air {pg 180}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Landed and Offical Classes=> Landed and Official Classes {pg 183}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">skilled landscape gardner=> skilled landscape gardener {pg 194}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">owners in Pasedena by the hundred=> owners in Pasadena by the hundred {pg 229}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">there is a grand cafe=> there is a grand café {pg 244}</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/back.jpg" width="309" height="500" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints -for Tourists, by Phillips Morris - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABROAD AND AT HOME *** - -***** This file should be named 53924-h.htm or 53924-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/9/2/53924/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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