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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 20:03:11 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 20:03:11 -0800 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..534bca0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53908 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53908) diff --git a/old/53908-0.txt b/old/53908-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3cce846..0000000 --- a/old/53908-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3806 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Diary of a Girl in France in 1821, by Mary Browne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Diary of a Girl in France in 1821 - -Author: Mary Browne - -Contributor: Euphemia Stewart Browne - -Editor: H. N. Shore - -Illustrator: Mary Browne - -Release Date: January 6, 2017 [EBook #53908] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF GIRL IN FRANCE, 1821 *** - - - - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. Images provided by The Internet Archive. - - - - - THE DIARY OF A GIRL IN FRANCE IN 1821 - - - [Illustration: Dieppe fishwoman] - - - THE DIARY OF A GIRL - - IN FRANCE IN - - 1821 - - BY MARY BROWNE - - WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY HERSELF AND - - AN INTRODUCTION - - BY EUPHEMIA STEWART BROWNE - - EDITED BY - - COMMANDER, THE HON. H. N. SHORE, R. N. - - - NEW EDITION, 1918 - - - - NEW YORK - - E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY - - 681 FIFTH AVENUE - - - * * * * * - - - INTRODUCTION - - -The child who wrote this quaintly-illustrated diary, eighty-three years -ago, was the second daughter of William Browne, Esq., of Tallentire -Hall, in the County of Cumberland. She was born there, February 15, -1807. - -Descended, on her father's side, from a race of sturdy Cumberland -yeomen, and on her mother's from the Royal Stuarts and Plantagenets, -she grew up, as might be expected from this childish production, an -original and uncommon woman. - -A keen naturalist and observer of nature, at a time when such pursuits -were unusual, she delighted in long solitary country rambles round her -beautiful home: an old border watch-tower, dating from 1280 A. D., in -full view of the Solway to the north, and of Skiddaw and the Cumbrian -mountains to the south. - -An exquisite collection of butterflies and moths is still in existence, -painted by her clever fingers from specimens reared by herself. -Each one is depicted upon its favourite flower, and accompanied by -its caterpillar and chrysalis on the food plant. This was, alas! -left unfinished at her death, on May 30, 1833, at the early age of -twenty-six. - -A picture poem, painted on the page of one of the albums of the -period, in drawings so minute and so finely finished that, like -the butterflies, they can only be adequately seen through a -magnifying-glass, still shows her accuracy of observation, and the -dainty and patient care of her work. - -She loved flowers, and the garden may still be seen where, in the very -early mornings, she planted and tended with her own loving care such -fragrant, and old-world flowers as rose de meaux, clove pinks, and -gillyflowers. - -But these were only the pastimes of a busy life of unselfish devotion -to others. Shy, retiring, and strangely indifferent to appearance and -to worldly advantages, she was little understood by the merry young -circle around her. She was, as a child, even considered stupid and -slow, her governess declaring that 'friend Mary does as well as she -can.' But children loved her, and if there was sickness or sorrow in -the village it was always 'Miss Mary' who was wanted, and who was never -appealed to in vain. - -At a time when rural education was viewed with suspicion, and Mrs. -Hannah More was contending for the right of the poor to win knowledge, -she and her clever elder sister opened the first Sunday-school in the -neighbourhood. They also devoted several hours of every morning to -teaching in the village dame school. - -The visit to France recorded in this diary extended from April 25th to -August 12th, 1821. Mary Browne went abroad when she was fourteen, with -her father and mother and five brothers and sisters, all but one being -younger than herself, and all being alike in their childish loyalty to -their own country, and their whole-hearted conviction that everything -un-English must be bad; and that even to admire anything foreign was -the blackest treason. Starting in this firm belief, they treasured up -everything ugly, eccentric, or uncouth that they came across in their -travels, as may be seen in the primitive but forcible illustrations of -her diary, with no dawning suspicion that, though different, foreign -customs might nevertheless be better than the familiar ways. - -They travelled slowly, in two of their own carriages, being a party -of thirteen, including the six children, a governess, nurse, cook, -manservant, and courier. - -The long journey; the brief sojourn at school; Madame Vernier, their -cross landlady; and, above all, the children's delight at finding -themselves again in their beloved England--these are all recorded with -a vivid and naive wealth of detail, which makes the child life of the -early days of the nineteenth century live again as we read of it. - -The eldest daughter, Catherine, had been in France before with her -parents, in the spring of 1815, when Napoleon Buonaparte escaped from -Elba. They were then obliged to leave Paris hurriedly, travelling night -and day for fear of detention. - -To all the other children everything was new and marvellous, and their -keen, though unconscious, delight in all that they saw is evident -throughout these pages. - -E. S. BROWNE. - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - Dieppe Fishwoman - - The Home of Mary Browne, with Distant View of Solway Firth and - Criffell - - Trees with Coverings like Tombstones.--The most amusing Thing in - Miss Linwood's Exhibition.--A 'Pioneer' with Long Beard and Leather - Apron.--Miss Wragge being sprinkled with Holy Water - - A French Woman and Child - - A French Boy and Girl, eating, at the Door - - SÅ“ur de la Charité - - A French Postillion - - Limonadière - - Cabriolet - - Water-woman - - Part of the Funeral Procession - - Old Woman of Versailles - - A Priest in his Common Dress and a Boy - - Woman with the Curious Cap - - A Bonne and Children - - French Miller - - The Fountain with the Animals.--Latona's Basin.--The Cupid at - Tivoli - - French Puppet Show - - Lavoir - - Cuirassier - - Madame Vernier - - Village Fête - - Procession at the Première Communion.--Processions at the Fête - Dieu.-_Reposoir_ in the Avenue Sceaux.--One of the Children's - little 'Petites Chapelles.'--A Passing Soldier in the Street.--The - Troublesome Boy in the King's Garden - - Garde Royale. Infanterie Chasseur, 1er Régiment - - The Shepherd of the Andalusian Sheep.--Priests carrying the Host to - Sick People.--Dancing upon Stilts.--Beggar Woman in a Bower of Dead - Leaves.--The Virgin in the Church of St. Remis - - Louviers Woman - - Old Woman with a Cotton Cap - - Fruit-woman with Gilt Cap - - Dieppe Woman and Children - - Dieppe Market-woman - - -[Illustration: THE HOME OF MARY BROWNE, WITH DISTANT VIEW OF SOLWAY -FIRTH AND CRIFFELL - -_From a drawing by Lady Alton in_ 1842] - - - - - JOURNAL - -_April 25th, 1821._--We arrived at London about eleven o'clock: all -the hotels we enquired at being full, we drove to the British Hotel, -Jermyn Street. We passed through Cavendish Square, which was very -pretty, but I was rather disappointed at not seeing London till I was -in it. After we had rested, we walked through Burlington Arcade: it -was quite cool and pleasant, although the weather was as hot as the -middle of summer. There were rows of shops along each side, which had -many pretty things in them, particularly artificial flowers; not far -from this is the Egyptian Temple, which has sphinxes, etc., carved on -it: we saw the Opera House, which is a very fine building. Regent's -Street and Waterloo Place are built of white stone. Regent's Street -(when finished) is to extend a long way; at the bottom of it is Carlton -House, which is very much blackened by the smoke: there is a great -contrast between it and St. James's Palace, the latter being built of -red brick, and looks like a prison. In the evening we saw the lamps in -Regent's Street, which was lighter than any other street I saw; one -house was illuminated. We saw Waterloo Bridge. - - -_April 26th._--We went to see the panorama of Naples: it was a -beautiful view, there were a number of vessels in the bay; after one -had looked long at them, one could fancy they were moving: in one of -the boats there were some ladies sitting under a crimson canopy; in -another some fruit; in one place there were some men fishing for mullet -in a kind of round net, with fishes jumping through it; there was a -man swimming with a basket in one hand, and several other figures; -the ships were painted very gay colours, the water and the sky were -as clear as crystal, and the whole so natural that one could hardly -persuade oneself that it was not reality. The next panorama we saw was -the battle of Waterloo: it was not near so pretty as Naples, it seemed -all confusion; the farmhouse, however, was very natural, also some of -the black horses. We next went to the panorama of Lausanne: the Lake of -Geneva was very like Keswick Lake, but the lower end not so pretty; the -mountains did not look very high. There were a great number of trees; -some of them had on kind of covers, which looked like tombstones; the -white railings and the shadows of the trees were remarkably natural; -there were several figures, the prettiest was a little child learning -to walk. We went to St. Paul's, and just walked through it. I thought -it very fine, but spoiled by the blackness. I had no idea of the height -till I observed some people in the gallery, who looked no bigger than -flies; the pillars were very thick. In our way to St. Paul's we passed -by Perry's glass-shop; in the window there was a curtain of glass -drops, with two tassels; it had a very pretty effect, and when the sun -shone it appeared all colours, but when we entered the shop it was -quite beautiful, there were such numbers of large glass lamps hanging -from the ceiling, and chandeliers, etc., in all parts. We saw the jugs -belonging to a dessert-set for a Spanish nobleman, which was to cost -twelve hundred pounds. Also a picture of a lamp which the King had had -made there: it was gilt dragons with lotuses in their mouths; in these -the lamps were placed so as to be quite hid. I should think it would be -more curious than pretty. We passed by Green Park, and saw Lord William -Gordon's house, which has a very nice garden. We drove through Hyde -Park; the trees were very pretty, and the leaves far out; we passed -very near the Serpentine. It was excessively hot weather. - - -_April 27th._--We saw the Western Exchange, which is something like -a large room full of shops; from that we went to Miss Linwood's -Exhibition. The pictures were exactly like paintings; there was a -railing before them, so that one could not see very near them; some of -the prettiest were Jephtha's Daughter, a nymph turning into a fountain, -a little girl and a kitten, some children on an ass, a girl and a bird, -a woodman and a lobster; in a smaller room were several pictures of -our Saviour, the finest was a head; there was no railing before them, -and when one looked near and could see the stitches, they looked quite -rough; we went along a passage and looked through a kind of grating -in which there was a head of Buonaparte, in another a lion's den; but -the most amusing thing was some children in a cottage; underneath a -shelf lay a little black-and-white dog, which we were afraid to go -near thinking it was alive; Catherine said she saw its eyes moving. -The streets in London were a great deal prettier than I imagined, such -numbers of shops, carriages, etc.--indeed the whole far exceeded my -expectation. There were a great many carriages in Bond Street driving -backwards and forwards. - - -_April 28th._--We left London about half-past nine o'clock; we passed -close by Westminster Abbey, which is prettier than St. Paul's; we had -a beautiful view of London from Westminster Bridge, where I think it -looks best, all the ships look so lively on the river, and London -appears so large. Somerset House is one side of the Thames; we had -another view after we were out of the city, where we saw London much -better than when we were coming in; we saw the Monument and the Tower -at a distance: it was delightful weather, the leaves were quite out; we -saw a great number of butterflies, one kind of a bright yellow (that -I had never seen before). The country looked very pretty, but the -cottages were not so nice as those in Hertfordshire; we had several -views of the Thames; we slept at Canterbury. - - -_April 29th._--We breakfasted at Dover. - - -_April 29th._--We embarked at half-past nine on board the Trafalgar, -Captain Melle; we waited for passengers for above half an hour; the -ship was very full--there were twelve of ourselves, a foreigner, Mr. -and Mrs. Wilkinson, six children, their uncle William, Miss Ash, a -manservant and a maid, who were going to Smyrna; the next people I -observed were three tall young women with hats and feathers; they had -a mattrass put in a boat, which they lay on, there was an old woman -with them; next came Mr. Johnson, his sister and daughter; an affected -lady; Mrs. Moses and a little girl; a French lady and her daughter; -two gentlemen with plaids; a curious old man and an old lady; besides -servants and many other people whose names I do not know. There were -fifty passengers. It was so foggy that we could hardly see Dover -Cliffs. Before we sailed the old man came and sat down not far from us. -He was very shabbily dressed, and looked a curious figure. A man came -and asked him for some money for carrying down his luggage to the ship. -'Nononono, no no,' said the old man; 'I paid you for my breakfast.' -'But my master, and not I, got that money,' said the man. 'No no no -no, 'said the old gentleman, tapping the deck with his cane, and his -stomach with his hand. The man continued to remonstrate, saying that he -paid those who did nothing, and did not give anything to those who were -really useful; but it was all in vain. So he went away, and presently -returned with another man, and they both tried to persuade the old -man to give them something. 'Nono-nono-nono,'said he. 'I gave you so -much' (mentioning what it was); 'nono-no.' 'But that was for your -breakfast, sir, and not for carrying your trunks.' 'Nono-no no; keep -it to yourself, keep it to yourself,' said he, nodding, and at last -the two men were obliged to leave the ship without having accomplished -their purpose. One of them muttered as he went along, 'I'm sure if -I'd known this I would not have taken all this trouble; such work as -I've had, hunting after that old man's gloves for this half-hour.' We -could not tell who he was, nor did any person appear to know him, as -they sometimes spoke English to him and sometimes French, he always -returning the answer, 'No-no.' He continued to nod and talk to himself -long after the men were gone, to our great amusement. I was very sorry -to leave England, but I had not much time to think about it, as the -ship began to move. As I had not been in a ship before, I was very -much frightened, and when the ship leant to one side I felt as if we -were all falling into the sea together. A great wave came over the -ship, and wetted all the people at that side, who were obliged to run -up higher. Mamma was so ill, she looked like death. She said you might -have thrown her into the sea, or done anything with her. After a short -time I was sick also; indeed there were hardly any of the passengers -that were not, except Euphemia, William, and Caroline[1]. One of the -plaid gentlemen was very civil, and took Caroline on his knee. When -she was tired she crept by mamma, and fell asleep. She scarcely spoke -a word, except once: when I asked her how she liked being in the ship, -she lifted up her head, and said, 'Not at all.' The gentleman said he -had come over for pleasure, and was going back again the next day. -Oh (thought I), who can come for pleasure?--to be sick oneself, and -see every person sick around one, to be surrounded by people who look -dead or dying, to hear women groaning, and children crying, and to -add to all, to be shivering with cold--who can come for pleasure! Mr. -Wilkinson's two little boys cried, and were rather troublesome; the -youngest had an immense long whip. His little baby had just recovered -from the measles; he nursed it almost the whole time. The little girl -with Mrs. Moses had, in addition to being sick, the cramp in her legs. -The lady that was with her did not take any charge of her except -calling out when the ship tacked, 'O child! come to this side, or else -you will be drowned.' The first time somebody was sick, and called -'Steward,' our little Stewart started up and said, 'What, papa?'[2] -William told us that he looked on one side; he saw a spout: he looked -on the other side; he saw another spout: so there was nothing for him -to look at but the sea. There were a number of seabirds and fishes. We -got within sight of Calais in three hours. No boats came out for a long -while, and it was generally agreed that the men had gone to the play; -but the reason ... - -(two pages missing here) - -... to their mouths to make him understand, but he always returned the -same answer, 'O nonononono, nononono,' so they were obliged to leave -him. Only a few people went in the boats. We laid down on the deck, -with our head on a basket and a coat over us. The deck was covered with -people lying in a heap like pigs. It was so disagreeable, that when I -heard that we could not get in till six or seven o'clock, I thought -that I would almost sooner go in the next boat than stay where I was. -Soon after, Euphemia told me that the next boat was come, but we did -not go in that either. Soon after, almost everybody went down to the -cabin, except Carruthers, the affected lady, and me. The old man again -began to be troublesome: he wanted to get to a chair at the opposite -side of the cabin, and all at once down he got on his hands and knees, -and began to crawl over the ladies, who called out, 'O! O dear! he -will crush us.' He then wanted to go to bed, and kept poking about: he -came to Euphemia's bed, and said, 'I'll get in here. Why mayn't I get -in here?' and he stood upon a chair, and peeped into the bed. One of -the ladies called out, 'There's a child in that bed.' 'Nononono-no,' -said he, and there he stood. Euphemia prepared herself to jump out of -bed if he got in, but after looking a little while he went away. Every -time she spoke to Catherine he held up two of his fingers, and said, -'That won't do, that won't do.' The affected lady had laid her head on -our knees, and she was never still for a moment. She kept continually -asking how long it would be before we got in; it was very foggy, and -the sailors had lost sight of the fort, so this lady thought she would -direct them. 'Oh!'said she, 'I wish I could look up; I've got such -famous eyes,' and then she sat up. 'Oh yes, I can see it.' One of the -sailors tried to persuade her that one might fancy anything in a fog, -but she still wanted to direct them. 'I'm sure,' said she, 'I see the -fort. It would be much better if you were to go into the harbour.' They -at last said they thought we should not get in all night.[3] Whenever -they moved the helm, the lady screamed out that it would crush her. I -felt very stupid and sleepy, and in a short time I fell asleep. When -they were going in to Calais we went into the cabin; they took me -down half asleep, and when I awoke I could hardly tell where I was; -it looked like a burial-ground; the floor was covered with people and -basons, and it was almost dark; in a little while we heard that we were -going into the harbour, to our great joy; I thought I would sooner stay -all my life in France than cross the sea again. We reached Calais a -little after eight; every person got up and groped about: a gentleman -said it was like a resurrection. One of Mr. Wilkinson's little girls, -about three or four years old, said, 'Papa, must my kisses and cakes -go to the custom-house?' When Euphemia[4] was getting up she said, -'I think we all look like wild beasts in our dens'; one of the plaid -gentlemen said, 'And you look like a laughing hyena!' Our brothers -had been all the time in the hold with the luggage. One of the ladies -said she would never cross the sea again, except to go home. I was -rejoiced to leave the ship, having spent one of the longest and most -disagreeable days I had ever felt. When we landed it was quite dark. - - * * * * * - -After we had landed we went to the custom-house. It looked like -a public-house, there were some queer-looking men and women with -long earrings;[5] here we saw the affected lady--she pulled about -her petticoats and said they should feel that she had got nothing -about her. From this we went to Rignolle's Hotel; it was very nicely -furnished: there were very pretty clocks on the chimney-piece. We -went to bed directly after tea; the rooms had a very particular, -disagreeable smell. - - -_April 30th_.[6]--We took a walk on the pier: it was excessively cold -and windy; we saw the place where Louis the Eighteenth first put his -foot on his return from England--there is a little piece of brass, of -the shape of a foot, put into the stone: there is also a pillar on -which is marked the time that this event took place. There was not much -difference between the dress of the people at Calais and that of the -English. The custom-house officers had examined our things; they took -away nine cambric muslin petticoats, which were slightly run up, and a -worked gown of mamma's, which they afterwards gave her back, thinking -that she might have worked it. They took away two yards of cambric -muslin from Miss Wragge;[7] they likewise examined a shawl and a cotton -gown of the servant's many times over: the gown had been washed several -times. The servants dined at a table d'hôte; there was a dinner which -they thought very fine, a dessert, wines, brandy and coffee. Rignolle's -is a very good hotel; most of the servants speak English; it is in the -Rue Eustâche de St. Pierre. - -[Illustration: - -1. TREE WITH COVERINGS LIKE TOMBSTONES - -2. THE MOST AMUSING THING IN MISS LINWOOD'S EXHIBITION - -3. A 'PIONEER' WITH LONG BEARD AND LEATHER APRON - -4. MISS WRAGGE BEING SPRINKLED WITH HOLY WATER] - - -_May 1st._--Being sufficiently recruited we recommenced our journey; -our horses were tied with ropes, they looked quite wild; there were -three in each carriage. Calais is surrounded with fortifications. It -was very cold, disagreeable weather. Papa has a great aversion to east -winds, and dislikes Tallantire on that account, so we expected that -in France we should find a delightful climate; but alas! no sooner -had we arrived there, than we found both east and north winds. About -Calais was the ugliest country without exception I ever beheld; there -was scarcely a tree to be seen, no hedgerows, no pretty cottages, -everything looked dirty and miserable; there was a great deal of sand, -and the country looked exactly like a desert: I thought that if this -was a specimen of France, it was certainly a most charming place! We -passed through La Chaussée, a scattered village which skirts the road -for more than a mile; after ascending a hill we had a view of the -sea, but the weather was so thick that we could not see Dover Cliffs. -Our horses began to kick and seemed very restive, but on the driver's -dismounting and calling to them in a curious voice they were soon -quiet; after we had passed Wimille about a mile there was a succession -of hills as far as Boulogne: on one of them we had a view of the town -and the tower, which was commenced by Buonaparte to commemorate his -intended victories over England. We entered the town by an avenue of -trees; we met a procession in the Rue Grande in honour of the Duke of -Bordeaux's baptism, which was that day to take place; it was a general -fête throughout France. We stopt till the procession had passed. The -principal things I remarked were the pioneers with their long beards -and leather aprons, with hatchets over their shoulders. We went to the -Hôtel Angleterre, Rue de l'Eau; it is kept by an Englishman of the -name of Parker. We breakfasted on bouillon. Euphemia had been very -unwell all day: she had no appetite; so we and Miss Wragge went out to -buy some oranges for her; we asked several people, and enquired at a -number of shops, but all in vain, and we began to despair: we, however, -succeeded in getting some of an Englishman--he was the only person in -the town who sold them; he told us that he got them from England and -was obliged to pay a high duty; we only took four, as the smallest -were four sous apiece. After leaving Boulogne the country was a little -prettier; it had not that desert appearance that there was at the -sea-coast. Before we reached Saumur we saw a woman riding like a man, -wrong side before, on a horse, and a cow tied to the horse's tail; in -some places we saw women ploughing. About Saumur it was rather pretty; -there were rows of apple-trees on each side of the road, but on many of -them there was scarcely a leaf; not any of the trees were so far out as -they were in England. The country looks barren, as there are no hedges. -The villages in France are also very ugly--there are no gardens before -the houses, and instead of the lovely cottages we saw in Hertfordshire -we here saw only dirty, untidy-looking houses; it was curious to see -the astonishment of the servants, who imagined that they were to travel -through bowers of grapes and groves of oranges. I was most disappointed -at the weather, as I expected a delightful climate in France. After we -had passed Saumur we entered the forest of Longvilliers; we saw some -large lilac periwinkles in the hedge.[8] We reached Montreuil in the -evening; there is a very steep ascent to the town; it is supposed to be -nearly impregnable. We went to Varennes, Hotel de la Cour de France; -it was a tolerably clean and civil inn. They told us there was to be -a grand illumination on account of the fête; they begged to put some -lights in our windows, and stuck two or three candles in. The servants -went out to see the balls and illuminations: they said that there were -very few lights, and that they saw some ladies going to the ball, but -that, as for the dance on the green, it was so dark they could hardly -see, but the people appeared to be in their working dresses; that there -was one fiddler; that first one person got up and ran across the green, -and then another; but it was nothing like dancing. At this hotel we -first saw the curious French beds; they consist of a pole in the wall -with the end gilt, over this is thrown a curtain; sometimes instead of -the pole there is an octagon; the beds are very uncomfortable, and the -curtains slip over one's face. The basons are like pie-dishes. - -[Illustration: A FRENCH WOMAN AND CHILD] - -[Illustration: A FRENCH BOY AND GIRL, EATING, AT THE DOOR] - - -_May 2nd._--It was a cold, disagreeable, rainy morning when we left -Montreuil; the country was not pretty; we went for a long way between -rows of trees, of which there was nothing left but the stumps; the -branches are cut off nearly all the trees, which makes them look like -broom-sticks. There were great numbers of beggars. At every village we -passed we were followed by men, women and children; if we gave to a -few they came in a double quantity up to the carriage-window; in one -village we counted about twenty. Begging seemed to be quite a trade: -in some places they brought baskets with cakes and flowers in them; -if we would not buy the flowers they threw them into the carriage. In -one place a little girl ran by the side of the carriage and said in -English 'How do you do? Very well thank you. Give me a penny, papa. How -do you do, my dear? I hope you're very well.' Papa asked them where -they had learned to speak English; they answered that the English had -lived there three years. In one of the villages where we stopped two -little girls came and danced by our carriage; they danced in a slow, -dull kind of way, and sung a tune something like our quadrilles. The -people were in general fat, plain and clumsy; their eyes were half -shut, they looked like the pictures one sees of Chinese. The women wore -a woollen or cotton petticoat with a body of a different colour, an -apron with shoulder-straps, and a coarse cotton handkerchief: some had -high caps on their heads, but most of them wore a checked handkerchief -done up like a toque, and long earrings; they had scarcely any hair to -be seen, which was very unbecoming. Their waists were generally very -short, and they looked quite a bundle; some of them wore sabots (wooden -shoes). The children[9] were heavy, ugly figures; they were quite -muffled up with clothes, and had very large stomachs, and their clothes -were tied over their breasts. They had not the liveliness of children -in England; they seemed so fat they could hardly walk,--like what in -Scotland they call _douce bairns_; they had all caps or handkerchiefs -on, even the babies. The men wore coloured woollen nightcaps; they were -much better-looking than the women. All the people looked untidy and -dirty. We passed through the Forest of Cressy, near which was fought -the celebrated battle which bears its name. We reached Abbeville about -one o'clock: we breakfasted at the Hôtel d'Angleterre, which is a very -good inn, but was rather in confusion when we were there. At Flixcourt, -where we stopped to change horses, we saw some people dancing on a -green; they told us it was on account of a wedding. In several of the -villages there were people standing at their doors eating bean-bread; -in one stage we tasted it; it was rather sour, but not bad tasting. -The people did not seem to make much use of their houses, as we often -saw them out of doors. It was above six o'clock when we arrived at -Amiens.[10] The entrance into the town is pretty. We went to the -cathedral; it has a pretty light spire: there is a beautiful portal -with figures carved all round. The inside is very prettily ornamented; -the pulpit is supported by Faith, Hope and Charity; above it are three -angels holding a curtain underneath which is the glory; all the figures -are gilt. There are two pretty painted wheel-windows; the organ is -silver, and looks rather poor. There are little chapels round the -inside of the cathedral, and images with cases of artificial flowers -before them. The pillars are so formed that when you strike them they -sound as if they were hollow. I did not think it altogether near so -grand as York Minster, but it is a very pretty thing. The concierge -told us that he had seen ten thousand in the church. When you look -up it looks too low, as if the top was cut off. There were several -nuns[11] walking up and down the cathedral. We returned to dinner at -the Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, where we slept; it is quite in the French -style, with red stone floors, no grates, fine clocks, etc. - -[Illustration: SÅ’UR DE LA CHARITÉ] - - -_May 3rd._--In the morning when we asked for soap they said they had -none in the house; we at last sent out to buy a piece, and they brought -us in a bit of coarse brown soap. The soap that the French wash their -things with smells of aniseed and gives their beds a disagreeable -smell. The inn was by far the worst we met with; and the servants were -very careless. We set out with very fine weather for the first time, -and as the day advanced two or three butterflies made their appearance. -Our postillion seemed very gay, as he sung most of the time; presently -some of the ropes broke about the horses' heads, and while he was -employed in mending, with the help of another bit of rope and an old -knife, the postillion at the other carriage had also dismounted, and -was amusing himself by plaiting up his horses' tails. The harness often -broke and the horses kicked, but the men did not seem to mind it; if -we asked what was the matter, they always answered, 'Soyez tranquille, -soyez tranquille.' The French horses are little, clumsy-looking beasts. -At Hebecourt we met a kind of covered cart full of children and nurses -going to the Hospital des Enfans Trouvés at Paris; there was a soldier -to guard it, who sat on his horse like a woman and slapped his horse's -face. There seems to be a great want of living creatures in the fields; -we never met any except here and there a drove of pigs with very long -legs, or a walnut-coloured old woman leading (by a string) a thin, -miserable-looking cow. We once met a flock of sheep which followed -a man like dogs. Breteuil is a mean, dirty town; we had a very bad -breakfast in the Hôtel de ----.[12] The country about Breteuil is very -dreary and unpleasant. We saw several vineyards which were not near -so pretty as I expected: they were little, diminutive-looking things, -not so high as raspberry bushes. Near the villages we saw a number of -people washing in the _lavoirs_ or ponds made purposely. There were, -as usual, plenty of beggars; some of whom came and begged for bread -and wine. One of our postillions had a dog with him; he threw off his -gloves, the dog always picking them up and bringing them to him. Soon -after we had passed the village of Wavigny we were overtaken by a -violent storm of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, and as the storm -increased we were glad to take shelter in the post-house at St. Just. -Here we had a good deal of conversation with a servant girl; she told -us that they kept all the cattle in stables, and never out of doors. -Seeing some pigs that looked finer than usual in the farmyard, she said -that they had got them from a school where they brought up pigs. She -had a child in her arms which she offered to us all to kiss. When we -asked what it eat, she said soup and sweetmeats; she afterwards brought -it in some sugar and milk. The child had on a cotton cap trimmed with -black net: when she took it off to show us its hair, we told her how -much better it looked without it; she said 'yes, but that in France -they were afraid of their children catching cold if they went without -caps': which accounts for one's never seeing the children's neck, arms, -or hair. The people seemed to have been at dinner; there was a large -plate of cabbage, some curd, and apples on the table. Before we went -away mamma gave the girl a franc; she seemed hardly to know whether to -accept it or not, turned it about, and at last put it into her pocket -without saying a word. We were amused at one of our servants saying -'It's well we're off the _common_ now it rains' (owing to the want -of hedgerows and trees, the country did look more like a common than -anything else). When we set out the storm had abated, but the water -was running over the road in streams. A little further on the hail -was collected into large heaps, some of them nearly three feet long, -and above half a foot thick: these were lying on the sides of the -road, and over the fields for a quarter of a mile. We picked up some -small pieces: they were hail and mud stuck together; the hailstones -were bigger than large peas. A few miles from St. Just we had a very -fine view of Clermont; the town and castle are situated on a hill, -nearly surrounded by wood. It was about here that a little dog which -I fed with bread followed us for near half a mile. The country was -very pretty as we approached Chantilly: the wood of Hallate borders -the road on the left, in which we saw some wood pigeons; nearer the -town is a meadow, and canals are on each side of the road. In entering -Chantilly one of the horses got its leg over the traces, and horse -and man fell down beside the carriage; they, however, got up without -any accident. We drove to the Hôtel de Bourbon, an excellent inn. The -mistress is a nice, civil little woman; the master, who is also cook, -was twenty years in England. The rooms were very nicely furnished; in -the parlour was a jug full of lilies of the valley, which gave the room -a very sweet smell. While dinner was preparing we walked out towards -the palace stables. We passed by several neat houses, with gardens -and trellis-work covered with vines before the door. The trellis-work -was arched: I should think when it is covered with bunches of grapes -it must be very pretty. The stables consist of one enormous building, -six hundred feet in length and forty in height; above the entrance are -some very fine figures and horses. There was formerly a figure, which -the Allies melted into cannon balls when they were quartered there. -The palace was destroyed by a mob from Paris early in the Revolution; -a smaller château connected with it was spared, which is now the -habitation of the Prince of Condé. Several people asked if we wanted -to see the inside of the stables, but we had not sufficient time. It -was a very fine evening, the country round was very beautiful; there -was a great deal of wood about it. We walked a little in the garden -belonging to the inn; there were an immense number of cockchafers that -flew humming over our heads. Soon after we returned there was a great -deal of thunder and lightning. Before I went to bed I sat and watched -it at a window; when it lightened, the whole sky seemed illuminated. It -continued during part of the night, so that we were obliged to close -the windows. I liked Chantilly better than any place I had seen in -France. - - -_May 4th._--Before we set off we got some rolls to take in the -carriage. They were not the rolls, a yard and half a quarter long, but -quite round like rings, that the bakers carry hung over their arms. We -took a turn in the garden, where we met with an Irishman, who told us a -great deal about the stables, etc. He said that the Prince of Condé had -an extensive forest, where he was very fond of hunting; that one day he -would hunt the wild-boar, another day the roe-buck, another the stag, -and so on. After we had left Chantilly the country was very pretty, -and the forest of Chantilly soon began to skirt the road on the left. -Near Ecouen is a seminary for the education of the orphan daughters -of the members of the Legion of Honour. As we approached Paris, the -postillions were very smart, their queues were well powdered, and -at one place their boots were so large that they stepped into them. -Whenever the French postillions come near to a town or village, they -begin to crack their whips very dexterously, with which they make an -immense noise. The horses are tied with ropes, have sheep-skins over -their backs, and are always three abreast. Near many of the villages -we saw crucifixes and images. There are some little obelisks on the -side of the road, where Philip the Bold and his brothers rested when -they bore the corpse of their father from Paris to St. Denis. There is -an avenue of trees on each side of the road which bears marks of the -ravages of war. Soon after the village of La Chapelle we passed the -barrier of Paris. We entered Paris along the Rue de Clichy. We stopped -at Meurice's Hôtel, Rue St. Honoré. The sitting-room was carpeted and -had a boarded floor; there was a pretty clock and vases of alabaster -on the chimney-piece, and mirrors about the room; the furniture was a -kind of figured blue cotton velvet, which they have a great deal of -in France. Meurice and many of the waiters speak English; the inn is -very good; the servants did not seem to hear the bells, but we thought -that was probably because we were at the back of the house, rather out -of the way. The back of the hotel looks towards the gardens of the -Tuileries. We went to bed directly after tea. - -[Illustration: A FRENCH POSTILLION] - - -TUILERIES - -_May 5th._[13]--We took a walk in the gardens of the Tuileries. The -palace was founded by Catherine de Medicis, and derives its name -from having been erected on a piece of ground appropriated to the -manufacture of tiles. The front consists of five pavilions, connected -with four ranges of buildings. The whole façade is adorned with Ionic -pillars placed on pedestals. All the pillars are formed of brown and -red marble. The portico of the centre pavilion towards the court -is decorated by columns, and on each side of the gate are statues -of Apollo and a Faun. The portico towards the garden is similarly -ornamented. On the galleries are eighteen marble statues of Roman -senators clad in the toga, and in other parts of the façade are -twenty-two busts of Roman emperors and generals. The extraordinary -height of the roof in front towards the garden gives an air of -heaviness to the façade. An iron palisade encloses the coachyard of -the palace. The principal entrance to the court of the Tuileries is by -a most beautiful triumphal arch. It was erected by Napoleon, and was -built on the plan of that of Septimus Severus at Rome, and is said not -to be inferior to the original. It is sixty feet wide and forty-five -feet high. The centre arch is fourteen feet wide, the others eight and -a half. Each front is decorated with four columns, supporting marble -figures, representing different soldiers. On the outside are, on the -right, the arms of France, supported by Peace and Plenty; and on the -left the arms of Italy, sustained by Wisdom and Strength. Four other -bas-reliefs are over the smaller arches. The inside of the arches is -beautifully carved. Over the centre arch was formerly the statue of -Napoleon. The gardens are the work of Lenostre; the principal walk -extends through the whole length of the garden. The trees are all cut, -which gives it a formal look. In the parterres of flowers are statues -and basins of water; in one were two swans, and in the others some gold -and silver fishes. From the terrace of the garden towards the Seine -we had a very fine view of the river; and on the opposite terrace, of -the Place Vendôme, the triumphal column, and the Boulevards beyond. -Along the walks are rows of chairs, for which you pay two or three -sous: there are also stone seats. In the afternoon these gardens are -crowded by a gay assembly. In returning we passed through the Place -Vendôme. The buildings which enclose the square on three sides are -uniform. In the middle is a beautiful column 130 feet high, formed on -the model of that of Trajan at Rome. It is entirely covered with brass, -furnished by the artillery taken from the Austrians. The pedestal is -fitted with bas-reliefs, and at each angle is an eagle grasping a -crown of laurel. At the foot of the column commences another set of -bas-reliefs, which trace in chronological order the principal events -of the campaign of 1805: a spiral line separates each row. On the top -of the column is a gallery, and above the gallery is a small dome on -which is a white flag. There were a great many carriages in the square, -so that we had to skip first to one side, then the other. There are no -pavements for foot passengers in the streets of Paris, which makes it -very disagreeable to walk; the coachmen drive close to the very doors -of the houses, and if it were not for the _portes cochères_, one would -be run over by the carriages. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the -shops in general very shabby. There were a good many people about with -nosegays; we bought a bunch of lilies-of-the-valley and ranunculuses -for two or three sous. The flower-girls are quite troublesome; they -follow one and throw the flowers into one's hand. - - -_May 6th._--We were very much surprised at having a very good -plum-pudding at dinner, and on enquiry we found that they had one every -Sunday. The servants complained terribly of not having enough to eat; -they said that sometimes they could not each get a potatoe: and other -things in proportion. A great many troops passed by the door. - - -JARDIN DES PLANTES - -_May 7th._[14]--Soon after breakfast we set out in a carriage to go -to the Jardin des Plantes. We crossed the Seine by the Pont Royal; -the river is dirty and muddy, the water is so green that it cannot -be drunk without being filtered. On the bridge were several women -clipping poodles, and the limonadiers, both men and women, were -passing backwards and forwards with their castles full of lemonade -or sorbets on their backs, their cocks by their sides, and their tin -cups over their shoulders, crying as they went along, 'Voulez-vous -boire, voulez-vous boire?' Some of them had larger things, a great deal -ornamented. When we alighted at the entrance of the botanic garden -several women crowded round us, begging us to buy a description of the -menagerie. It was a very fine day. This charming garden was founded -by Jean de la Brasse, physician to Louis XIII. At the entrance of the -garden are several square enclosures. The first contains different -kinds of soil and manure; in the second are specimens of hedges, -fences, and ditches; there are likewise every different method of -training fruit-trees, some like a cup, some like a pyramid, and two -trees fastened together with a gate between them. In another enclosure -are vegetables, and in another different kinds of fruit-trees and -bowers. We then walked to the menagerie, near which are some very -fine Judas trees which were covered with lilac flowers. The wild -beasts' dens were very large and kept remarkably clean. There were -several lions, tigers, panthers, hyenas, wolves and bears; but what -pleased me most was a dog in the den with one of the lions. One very -fierce-looking black bear was rearing up against the bars. The bears -were formerly kept in sunken enclosures, but since an accident happened -they have been confined with the other wild beasts.[15] At the end -of the menagerie is the aviary, the bars of which were so close that -we could hardly see into it; there did not seem many rare birds, but -plenty of monkeys were skipping about. Some distance off this is the -house for the elephant: it is a large-looking building near a pond, -the whole enclosed by a railing. The elephant was plunging about and -enjoying the water while its keeper was rubbing it with a wet broom. -In several enclosures were antelopes, deer, elks, and different kinds -of sheep. They were so tame as to come up to the railings and take -pieces of bread out of the people's hands. In one enclosure were -different kinds of fowls, storks, and an ostrich, and a Botany Bay -bird of immense height. There were also two old camels, and two young -ones. There were some curious long-eared goats, which were very tame. -In the pit, where the bears were formerly, are now some wild boars, -and several young ones. The botanic garden consists of more than seven -thousand plants, every one of which is labelled, and the beds are -divided by little hedges of box. A piece of water, supplied from the -Seine, is appropriated to the aquatic plants. We did not look into the -greenhouses or hothouses: several of the plants were ranged out of -doors. After we had passed these we ascended by a path an artificial -hill at the top of which is a kind of temple: from this we had a view -of the greater part of Paris. The Museum of Natural History is at the -end of the garden opposite the entrance; it is open on Tuesday and -Friday. We could not see it the day we were at the garden. - -[Illustration: LIMONADIÈRE] - - -LOUVRE AND PALAIS ROYAL - -_May 8th._--As we had taken a house at Passy, the servants and trunks -went there: but we staid till the afternoon that we might see the -Gallery of the Louvre and as much of Paris as we could. In the first -saloon of this museum are the earliest works of the French and Italian -artists. In the next the celebrated battle-pieces of Le Brun. We -then entered the great gallery, which appears to have no end; this -magnificent apartment is fourteen hundred feet in length. The ceiling -is particularly pretty. I was very much disappointed in the pictures; -there were such a number that I could hardly distinguish them. The -Déluge by Poussin is very sublime. I also admired the St. Michael -vanquishing Satan. The inside of a kitchen, and another painting in -which there is a lamp, are very natural. There is a picture of some -dogs, and another of some game, both of which I liked. A basket of -fruit and some butterflies is also very pretty. - -From the Louvre we went to the Palais Royal. It was begun by Cardinal -Richelieu in 1629, and completed in 1636. It was converted by the Duke -of Orleans into a bazaar: the front towards the street of St. Honoré -was built by him after the destruction of the Opera House. It presents -two pavilions adorned with columns. After passing under a portico we -entered a square. In the centre is a garden interspersed by young trees -and encircled by lattice work; in the middle of the garden is a _jet -d'eau_, which cools the air very much. Round the square are beautiful -little shops; the prettiest are the jewellers'. In the windows were -a great many ornaments of mother-of-pearl, harps, dogs, men, carts, -etc. The china-shops are very pretty also. One very pretty ornament -was a gold boy with a china cup on his back and a dog holding a stick -in its mouth, at each end of which was a glass for ink; there were -bead-necklaces, smelling-bottles, and every kind of thing. When we -returned we went immediately to Passy. This village was about a mile -from Paris. When we arrived at our house in the Rue Basse, we found all -hands busily employed in cleaning. It was a large house, but dirty from -top to bottom. It had been occupied for a year by an English family -who had been abroad for three years; their housekeeper and lady's-maid -were English, and disliked being in France so much that they sat in -their own rooms and left the management of the house entirely to the -foreign servants. There was a courier who bought and managed for the -family. The consequence was that we found the house in the greatest -confusion. The kitchen was like a pig-sty, and the rooms were very -dirty and untidy. There were backs of books, old bottles, and all kinds -of litters lying about. There was a German housemaid who was to stay on -in the house with us, and she and our servants did little that day but -clean. Though we were all anxious to come to a house, I began to think -I would sooner have stayed where we were than come here. When we went -to bed we expected at least to be at rest, instead of which the beds -were so full of bugs that we were bit all over. - - -PASSY - -_May 9th._--We got up pretty early, glad enough to leave our dirty, -disagreeable beds. The servants began to clean the kitchen, but the -smell was so bad that it made them sick; they therefore got two men in -to clean it; and when they came to the pipe that carried away the dirt, -they were also unable to proceed till they got a glass of brandy. The -oven was an inch thick with dirt; when it was a little cleaned they -discovered a looking-glass at the back of the oven. All the egg-shells, -stalks of vegetables, etc., had been thrown under the charcoal fires; -the rolling-pin was covered with dirt. Indeed, a dirtier place could -not have been imagined. The meat chopper was also an inch thick of -dirt. The cellar was overrun with lizards, and the closets with ants, -etc. It was rather more agreeable out of doors. The front of the house -was turned from the street, and before it were two terraces, one above -the other, which were covered with vines, and at the end were some fine -Judas trees. From the terrace we had a view of the Seine and Paris. -The weather was fine, but we none of us were in a humour to enjoy this -view. The porter that lived at the end of the terrace had a little boy -of five or six years old. François was a nice boy, but, like most of -the French children, rather forward. We walked through the village as -far as the Bois de Boulogne. There are streets in Passy like a town, -but very few shops; the people who live there get all their things from -Paris. We picked up several cantheræ. - - -_May 10th._--We now found the dirt so intolerable that mamma determined -to speak to Madame Gautier, the lady from whom we had taken the house. -She said that she would have the house cleaned and painted; but that -if we wished to leave it, not to consider that any agreement had been -made. (Our house had been taken for a year.) On hearing this papa went -immediately to Versailles to look after a house; when he returned he -told us that he had taken one, to which we were to go next day. We went -to bed in rather better spirits, comforting ourselves that it was the -last night we should sleep here. - - -_May 11 th._--This morning we were busy packing and settling our -things. We were rather at a loss about some clothes which we had at the -wash, not knowing how we could get them. The porter, however, told us -that we might be easy, as he knew a coachman who passed constantly by -the door, with whom he would send the things. That we might be sure, -we again asked him if he was certain of being able to send the things; -but he repeated his answer so often that we had not the least doubt of -his being as good as his promise. Soon after breakfast we set off in -a cabriolet, which is rather a curious conveyance, but very roomy. It -has two seats, one before the other, and it opens in front where the -man sits. It jogged very much going downhill. There is only one horse. -The man drove so close behind the cabriolet in which the servants were -that we could not see anything; on asking him to go to one side he -went straight before. Presently he stopped and took up another man, -which they call a 'lapin,' and they chatted and laughed all the way, -frequently stopping to get little glasses of brandy, as all the French -drivers do. They stopt for a long while at a post-house, where the men -got some bread out of a bin in the corner, and some wine. The people at -the inn brought us out a few little cakes, for which they afterwards -charged several francs. It was about the middle of the day when we got -to Versailles. - -[Illustration: CABRIOLET] - -It is a nice-looking town. There are three avenues up the middle. The -soldiers were exercising in the Avenue de Sceaux when we passed; they -exercised there several times a week. We used to like to hear their -music, but they spoilt it with drumming. Our house was near the end of -the Avenue de Sceaux, No. 6. Before the door was what they called 'Deux -jolis jardins,' which turned out to be a small garden with a walk, and -two hedges up the middle which divided it. We had not the upper story -of the house. We paid 300 francs a month. The rooms were all round a -court, so that one had to pass from one room to get to another. The -drawing-room was furnished quite after the French fashion: there was -a round table with two large pieces of marble on it; another table -supported by bronze sphinxes; a beautiful piece of furniture that had -belonged to the palace, which contained fourteen secret drawers and -several mirrors. But besides this there were two clocks, neither of -which would go; linen curtains hung on common iron rods; common painted -frames round the glasses. Instead of a carpet there was a very little -shabby piece of green cloth; and no grate; and such fire-irons as you -would not see in an English kitchen. The furniture was stamped blue -cotton-velvet. On the floor of the dining-room there was a little -ragged piece of old tapestry; this and the green cloth were the only -pretensions to carpet in the house, so that what with the want of -grates and the red stone floors, it looked very cold and comfortless. -But that we did not much mind, as the heat was what we always dreaded. -The locks of the doors hurt all our fingers, they were so stiff. -After we had thoroughly looked through the house, we went out to walk -through the town. The trees in the avenues are kept cut, which is very -formal-looking. We passed before the King's stables. They are in the -form of a half moon; before the court is a railing with gilt tops. -The great and the little stable are separated by the Avenue de Paris. -Nearly opposite is the palace. Higher up the avenue, on the side of the -Grande Ecurie, is the kennel. It looks pretty, and I think very large -for a dog-kennel; it was, however, found too small. After walking as -far as the Place d'Armes (which separates the old from the new town) we -returned, and spent the evening in condoling with one another. - - -VERSAILLES PALACE - -_May 12th._--We went this day to see the palace and the gardens. When -one looks at it, from the side next Paris, one might fancy it was a -town of itself, there seem so many different buildings. As you go up -to it there are some curious-looking buildings in imitation of tents. -The iron railing that separates the palace from the Place d'Armes is -very much ornamented and gilt, and on each side there is a group of -gilt figures. After passing by the chapel we entered the park. On this -side the palace is 1800 feet long, and from its great length looks -rather low. The park of Versailles is divided into the great and the -little park, which united form a circuit of sixty miles. The great -park includes several villages. The little park includes the gardens, -the groves, the pieces of water, etc. There are several entrances. The -principal one is by the arcades of the palace. When one stands in the -middle of the terrace one sees the Basin of Latona, the Tapis-vert, -Apollo's Bath, and the canal at the right, the parterre of the north, -and Neptune's Bath; and at the left the parterre of flowers, the -orangery, and the _pièce d'eau des Suisses_. The whole garden seems -almost composed of statues and vases. The vases are, I think, the most -beautiful things in the garden; they are mostly of white marble (a few -are of bronze), and covered with the most beautiful carving; some are -very simple, having only a border round them, and others are covered -with figures, sunflowers, or vines. There are also a great many basins -of water. The finest is Neptune's Bath. It is a large piece of water -surrounded by twenty-two vases. There are several groups of figures: -the principal one in the front is Neptune and Amphitrite seated in a -large shell, and surrounded by tritons and naiads. Apollo's Bath is -another very fine one. Apollo is represented in his car drawn by four -horses, and surrounded by sea-monsters. Latona's basin is as curious as -any: in the middle, on several steps of red marble, are Latona and her -children, and around them, on the steps, are seventy-four frogs, which -represent the Lybian peasants metamorphosed by Jupiter on the complaint -made to him by Latona. Some of them seem half frogs and half men. -Besides these there are a great many smaller basins. There is one basin -which seems gone to decay. In it is represented the giant Enceladus -crushed under the ruins of Mount Olympus, and a number of groups of -bronze children supporting basins. Around many of them are parterres of -flowers. - -The Tapis-vert is a long piece of grass, at each side of which are -numerous vases and statues. In the evening, before sunset, this is the -favourite promenade, and is quite crowded by all ranks of people. It is -a favourite game to try and walk down this green blindfold. The canal -is at the bottom of the Tapis-vert, below Apollo's Bath. It is very -long, but not very pretty, as it does not finish with anything; it is -crossed by another canal, which conducts to the Trianon. - -There are a great many long avenues and squares, several of which are -closed. The avenues looked suitable to the rest of the garden, but -_very_ formal. There are also rows of yew-trees cut into every kind -of formal shape, which spoils the look of the gardens very much. The -prettiest part of the garden is Hartwell, or the King's garden, which -is made in imitation of the place where he resided when in England. -It is very like an English garden. In the middle is a column of very -pretty marble, with a small figure of Flora at the top. This garden -is railed in, but is open every evening for people to walk in. I was -very much disappointed in the orangery: it is lower than the rest of -the garden. Most of the orange-trees were standing out, but there is a -gallery to put them in. There is a basin of water in the middle of the -orangery, and borders of flowers all round. There are immense numbers -of orange, lemon, citron, laurel, and pomegranate trees:--the oldest -orange-tree is said to be five hundred years old; but they are by no -means pretty; they are all in large tubs; and instead of the branches -being allowed to spread, they are all cut like box, which make them -look still more formal. Even the flowers in the borders of the orangery -are planted alternately yellow and white. The blossoms of the oranges -are sold. From the orangery we had a view of the Etang Suisse; it looks -like a dirty pond on a common. The whole garden is open to every person -till nine o'clock, when a drum beats. At the entrance there is a list -of rules: no dogs are to be brought in unless tied with a string; and -nobody is to fish in the ponds, or to touch the statues or flowers. -Notwithstanding, however, these prohibitions, I have counted seven -or eight dogs at one time running over the flower-borders, and boys -climbing on the beautiful vases, or fishing for gold and silver fish, -of which there are a great many, particularly in Apollo's Bath. As we -returned through the court, several very ugly old women pressed round -us and asked whether we would like to see the apartments of the palace, -but we thought it was better to defer this till another day. - - -_May 13th._--I was very much surprised to see here, as well as at -Paris, not the least regard paid to Sunday. All the shops were open, -houses were building, and people sitting working at their doors, -seeming more industrious this day than any other; even the tradespeople -made a point of bringing their things on a Sunday. The English -clergyman was a Mr. Beaver. At church we saw several people that we had -formerly seen at Clifton and Bath; it was quite full of English. - - -JACK - -_May 14th._--About this time a little circumstance happened which shows -the French inconsistency. We wanted a jack put up in the kitchen. The -mason and his boy came first, but not finding the blacksmith there, -they went away; then came the blacksmith and his boy, but not finding -the mason, they went away. After going on in this way for some time, -they at last all met. The mason then took out of a paper bag some -delicate-looking white powder, which, after mixing into a paste, he -layed with great care on to a fine silver trowel, and then proceeded to -dab it on to the wall with his fingers. - - -_May 15th._--We now began to be rather surprised that the clothes we -had left at Passy, and which the porter said he would send directly, -had not arrived. Stephens, our foreign courier, who spoke English, was -therefore despatched to bring them. We afterwards found that, so far -from knowing a person to send them by, the porter had consulted with -Stephens and asked him if he knew of any person; so that we might have -waited long for our clothes if we had trusted to the porter's word. -The French are very fond of making promises, but not quite so fond of -performing them; this we found to be the case with our house: one of -our beds broke down several times; some rooms wanted tables, some jugs, -some carpets, and all window-curtains--so that you could see across the -yard from one room to another; they found it very easy to promise all -these things, but we waited many a week before we got one. The English -family above us had one baby of a few months old, called Angelica -Ellen, which we were very fond of nursing. The lady was so ill as not -to be able to attend to it, and seemed to leave it entirely to the care -of a French nurse, who attended to it very badly. She would take it out -in the rain, or give it to anybody in the street to hold, while she -played at hide-and-seek with the old porter and his wife, who looked to -be above seventy; she one day let it fall into the fire and burnt all -its poor little hands. There is a porter to all the French houses. Our -porter's wife took care of children: we sometimes used to get her in to -clean the pans, etc.; then the nurse used to come in also to chat with -her and meddle with the things in the kitchen. - - -TRIANONS - -_May 19th._--This day was, for a rarity, very warm. We saw in the -garden a swallow-tail butterfly and some small red moths, which -were almost the only kinds I saw in France. I never saw anywhere so -few butterflies: we thought it quite a treat to see a single white -one. There was the same scarcity of birds; and, notwithstanding the -quantity of wood in the gardens, we hardly heard one. In the middle -of the day we walked to the Trianons. The Grand Trianon is situated -at the extremity of one of the branches of the canal. We went to it -from the palace garden along a hayfield, near which we sometimes saw -the soldiers playing at ninepins. Near the Trianons were some tall -lombardy poplars and some very pretty acacias. At the gate were a great -many soldiers. An avenue leads up to the little Trianon, which, though -it is called a palace, is not larger than a small private house. The -Grand Trianon is very pretty, but looks small after the other great -palace: it is adorned with eight green marble, and fourteen red marble -pillars. We this day saw neither the inside nor the gardens, but merely -passed by it. Lower down was a pond near which some sheep were feeding, -which, with the wood of the forest, formed a pretty scene. We returned -through part of the forest, and home through the gardens. As we were -going along one of the walks we saw a great many people running, -and on enquiring the reason we were told it was to see the Duchesse -d'Angoulême: we saw her go into one of the walks which were closed, -and afterwards pass through the Orangerie. She was on horseback; there -were some ladies and gentlemen beside her, and other attendants behind. -She was dressed in a dark habit; her eyes were red, as if she had been -crying, and she was not good-looking. We saw her two or three times -afterwards, when she came to visit a college for educating priests to -send over the country, and which was very near our house. We often -saw scores of students going a-walking in their long black gowns -tucked up through the pocket-hole. They were in general very vulgar -and ungentlemanly-looking. The people did not seem to pay them much -respect, as the porter's wife and the nurse pointed, and then burst -out a-laughing when they passed. There were above three hundred at the -college. - - -BALL - -_May 17th._--There was this day a ball given at the palace in honour -of the Duke of Bordeaux's baptism. Mamma did not go, as Mrs. Murray, -the only person she knew there, could not go on account of the death -of a friend. They said the supper was to be very splendid. We went to -a _pâtissier_ to see some of the ornaments. There were very few, and -those were not very pretty: one of the best was the arms of France, -made of cake and ornamented with coloured paste. They told us that -there were no more ornaments for supper than what we saw; but there -must have been more, as we saw people carrying several out of the shop -into another room: what we saw were merely a few in the windows. In the -evening we walked towards the palace to see the illuminations. Beside -the gate and across the court were pieces of iron this shape - -[Illustration: triangle above a short line], - -to which the lamps were fastened. The carriages drove up between the -rows of lamps. Mamma and my sisters were not a little surprised to see -a _gondole_ (which is the same kind of thing as a stage-coach) drive -up to the entrance. The driver lifted out of it a very fat, gouty -lady, dressed in a black lace gown over a white satin slip; she had -a white satin turban on her head, short sleeves, and dirty-looking, -lead-coloured gloves. She had very thick legs, and there was something -very peculiar about her feet. She had worsted stockings on! This is -one of the instances out of many of the inconsistency of the French, -in dress as well as in other things. The poorest-looking people will -have gold chains and earrings, although in other respects remarkably -shabbily dressed. The lower class of people are much worse dressed than -the English. - - -_May 20th._--We all now began to feel very uncomfortable; everything -was so very different to the things in an English house. From the -drawing-room to the kitchen all was uncomfortable, and the habits of -the people were so dirty and untidy that our three English servants -begged that they might do the work themselves instead of having a -foreigner to assist them. Stephens our courier was gone, so that we -had often to go with Carruthers (our cook) to the market to speak -for her. When she went by herself she, however, contrived to make -herself understood; she went all round the market and searched about -till she got hold of the thing she wanted, then she touched it and -said, _Combeen_. She soon learnt a few words such as _pom-de-tary, -chu, mungy, francs, sows, kickshaws_, etc.; if she did not understand -what they said she answered _Inglytary nong comprehendy_. Robins (our -manservant) got on best; he stammered out a word of French and a word -of English, till by words and signs he contrived to get what he wanted. -One word they all knew, and that was _bukkah, bukkah_; they were so -determined not to be cheated that Carruthers went all the way back from -the Avenue de Sceaux to the market if she found they owed her one sou. -Notwithstanding all our care we frequently were cheated; they will try -every possible means:[16] sometimes when the market-people set down -what we had bought, they would write down a few more pence than they -had before charged, or contrive some other way for getting money. The -provisions at Versailles were fully dearer than in England. One of the -best shops in the market was Madame Segan's, although she, as well as -the rest, would cheat if she could. The butter was very bad in France. -Madame Segan's was the best, but as there was no salt in it, and they -only got it once a week, it did not keep good. The butcher's meat -(except the pork and veal) is not good: they have a curious custom of -blowing it up so as to look very large. The French bread being made of -leaven is very sour; we got English bread from a baker at Versailles. -Another good shop for eggs, etc., is The Black Hen. - - * * * * * - -Madame Vernier, the woman whom we took the house from, was a -_restaurateur_ next door, so we often got some dishes from her. Her -_chef de cuisine_ used sometimes also to come to our house to make -dishes. It was very curious to see his proceedings; the beginning of -all his dishes was the same, a large piece of batter and a little -flour; to this he often added some bouillon. He was one day going to -make a small dish off a large dish of cold roast beef. Instead of -cutting off a few slices, (before we saw what he was about) he cut -every bit of the beef to pieces, and then broke the bones and threw -them into the _pot an feu_, to the great discomposure of Carruthers. -The French can make a dish out of almost anything. One day he began to -tell us a long story about a place where he used to dip the children, -and to show us what he meant he took little Caroline in his arms and -pretended to bathe her. This cook was a true French figure; he used to -come in with his white nightcap and apron on, and a sharp pointed knife -hung by his side. After scraping up the charcoal with his fingers he -used to dip two of them into the pan, and putting them to his mouth he -used to say, 'Très bon, très bon.' He was, however, a civil enough old -man in his way. - - * * * * * - -Another curious figure was our water-woman. She was a remarkably ugly, -vulgar-looking old woman, and like all the old French women, an immense -size. She used to wear a brown petticoat, a tattered apron, and a -knitted woollen body. Notwithstanding her uncouth appearance, however, -she was by far the most polite old woman I saw in France. Though -upwards of seventy, she one day sang us some songs very well. When she -came she used to make a curtsy and enquire after us all in the civilest -manner possible. Indeed she was nearly the only person whose manner -was at all like what I expected. Although one hears so much of French -politeness, I do not think that the French are near so polite as the -English. The men make better bows, etc., but in other things there is a -kind of forwardness in the manners of the people that I cannot admire. -If you are walking in the street and a person happens to run against -you or hit you with his stick (which frequently happens), he never -thinks of saying anything except calling out 'eh!' laughing, and then -walking on. - -[Illustration : WATER-WOMAN] - - -MASTERS - -_May 21st._--By this time we were sufficiently settled to have some -masters. The dancing master who had been recommended to us was Monsieur -le Breton. I believe he taught dancing very well in the French style -and took a good deal of pains, but he was not a very agreeable master. -The French dancing is completely different from the English; they think -it beautiful to dance on the flat of the foot and to bend every step, -which makes the dancing look very heavy: they do not like jumping, -although their steps are full of little hops. Their tunes too are very -dull. The French in general do not admire the English dancing; we -were told, however, of one English lady who had danced at the balls, -quite after the English fashion, and whose dancing had been very much -admired. The constant cry of Monsieur Breton was _pliez, pliez_, and -indeed part of the time we danced on a stone floor so that we could -dance heavy enough to please him. He had expressions like the rest -of the French, such as dancing, or working, 'like an angel,' etc. He -called the little ones Williaume, Henault, and Coquette. Our dancing -master had one very disagreeable, though common French trick; he used -to spit so about the floor that it was quite unpleasant to dance. He -taught six of us three times a week for six francs a lesson. He had the -smallest kit I ever saw. He stayed two hours each time. Madame Breton -was a dressmaker. We tried her, but she was by no means a good one. She -had three children, one of whom was an idiot; and as three children in -France are reckoned a large family, she used always to be complaining. -The best dressmaker was Mademoiselle Bouillet, Rue Charcelere. She made -our things very well; but towards the last, when she found we were -going away, she hurried over the work without taking the least pains, -charging very dear for some things, and quite spoiling others. She used -constantly to be promising us to send our things, and as often breaking -her promise. She one day told us very coolly that we might believe -_her_ promises, as she never told lies; that her little girl was in the -habit of lying, but that it was not the case with herself. Another day -she told us it was not her _nature_ to tell lies, but her profession. -The French people do not seem to think it wrong to cheat or lie, or -the least disgraceful to be told they do. Sometimes when we thought -anything we were buying dear, and told the shopkeeper that we had -bought the same thing cheaper in another shop, she answered, 'O madame, -vous ne pouvez pas; c'est impossible.' - - * * * * * - -Monsieur Violet was our French master. He was a good-humoured little -man, and spoke English very well. He generally wore a green coat and -light drab slippers; his hair looked as if it had not been combed out -for a month: altogether he very much resembled an ape. He came for an -hour every day, and charged two francs a lesson. - - * * * * * - -Miss Wragge had the best Italian master---Monsieur Pecci--in Europe (so -they told us). He charged a napoleon for twelve lessons, whether she -took them or not. He was a dark, disagreeable-looking man. He looked -like one of the banditti. - - * * * * * - -We went to enquire about Monsieur Capan, the drawing master (none of -us, however, went). He was finishing one very pretty picture; but he -seemed to have a great objection to show us his drawings: he said -it was quite unnecessary for us to see them. His pupils drew from -busts, he said; they might draw all day if they liked it, but that he -generally looked after them for an hour or so in the middle of the day. - - * * * * * - -We did not get any music master. The general run of French pianos are -not good. Madame Verny offered to sell us a harpsichord for forty -francs-certainly cheap enough; but as half the notes were like a pestle -and mortar, and the other half would not sound at all, we thought it -would be no acquisition. - - -FUNERAL - -_May 23rd._--As we expected French young ladies to be very elegant, -mamma was most anxious that we should go as day scholars to a French -school; she thought, besides, that it would be a change, as we were -all sufficiently tired of Versailles. We therefore enquired of several -people, and were told that the pension of Madame Crosnier de Varigny, -Boulevard de la Reine, No. 55, was the best at Versailles: they said -it was not indeed the largest, but the best and the most select. -We thought that so near the capital there must be good schools; we -therefore set out this day to go and speak about it. In our way, as -we passed the Church of Notre Dame, we observed it was all hung with -black; we walked in, and enquired of some people the cause. They -answered, 'On va faire un enterrement; c'est une dame forte à son -aise.' We walked round the church, which is plain and dirty. A number -of priests, boys, and beggars went out to meet the corpse with candles -in their hands. After waiting till we were almost tired, the funeral -at last made its appearance. There first came in the beggars bearing -lighted candles in their hands; then a priest carrying a crucifix; -then a number of priests, and boys that attend the priests, in black -and white; then two priests who held a sort of black pipe, a serpent -through which they blew; after that came the coffin, covered with white -silk and bordered with black velvet: it was placed on a bier elevated -on a platform covered with black near the altar. A great many candles -were lighted around it. A priest chanted the whole way up the church -and during mass. Mass lasted half an hour. After it was finished they -made a collection, after which the procession left the church in the -same order as when it entered. The old beggars also went out, taking -their candles along with them. There were forty of them, the most -frightfully ugly creatures that can be imagined. Their skins were like -brown leather; they had on old patched petticoats; they were blind -and lame; one had a nose as big as her face, and the next no nose at -all: they were altogether the most frightful set I ever beheld. There -were not many people at the church, except some old women, a number -of whom are generally standing about the churches. (Some of them take -care of the chairs. Every person that takes one chair pays two liard, -or on great fêtes two sous.) These old women were likewise very ugly. -As the French women (except the ladies) do not wear bonnets, their -faces get sunburnt, and the old women's skins look like leather. Some -grow excessively fat. They wear a curious kind of cap, and generally -a red gown and a dark-blue apron with pockets, and a kind of large -chintz handkerchief. After leaving the church we proceeded to Madame -Crosnier's. There were two or three queerly-dressed, vulgar-looking -girls standing at the window. We were shown up into a bedroom. -Madame Crosnier is a good-looking woman, genteel, and altogether -the nicest-looking woman I saw in France: she had on a neat cotton -gown (which is more worn in France than in England) and a pelerine. -Mademoiselle Allemagne, her _sous-maîtresse_, was not near so -nice-looking. The terms were for day-scholars, who did not get their -meals there, 10 francs a month, drawing 10 francs, music 18 francs, -harp 36, dancing 9, and Italian 10 francs. School hours were from nine -to twelve, and from one to three. Thursday was a half-holiday. Madame -Crosnier showed us some of the young ladies' work: it was principally -little figures embroidered with coloured silks on white silk. Catherine -went to this school the next day; Euphemia and I not till above a -fortnight after. - -[Illustration: PART OF THE FUNERAL PROCESSION] - - -_May 25th._--We took a walk in the forest. It is full of paths, so -that one might easily lose one's way: the wood is very pretty. It -was evening when we walked in it, and we saw one moth, the only one -I saw in France, except the cinnabars and some brown midges. We met -the King's gamekeeper, whom papa spoke to: a little further on a -drunken man passed us: drunken people were by no means a rare sight -here, although we had been told the contrary. When we got home it was -quite dark, and they were lighting the lamps, which are hung on ropes -stretched across the street. - -[Illustration: OLD WOMAN OF VERSAILLES] - - -ASCENSION - -_May 29th._--This was Ascension Day, which is a grand fête. We saw a -long procession of priests and soldiers, which I do not remember very -distinctly. After breakfast we went to high mass at St. Louis, which we -were told was to be very grand. The priests had on very fine dresses, -gold, scarlet, silver, purple, green, and all colours. It was quite -like some show; they changed places on the steps and figured about as -if they were waltzing. The bishop had on a gold mitre; he was dressed -very splendidly. There was a great deal of fine flourishing music. The -priests flung about the incense, and the little boys dressed in white -muslin over red gowns rang little bells, on which the people knelt -down. We went to see service again in the afternoon; it consisted of -nothing but loud music like a waltz tune.[17] I missed the prettiest -sight, which was seeing a lady make the _quête_ or collection for the -poor. The lady sat before the altar; she had on a white gauze gown, -and a veil which hung down behind fastened round her head with a -wreath of roses. She had on white gloves and shoes, and was dressed -as if she was going to a ball. An officer handed her about, and the -concierge went before, knocking on the ground with his stick. (The -concierge is generally a very tall man dressed in plum colour; he -goes before the priests, funerals, etc.) The lady held in her hand a -little box of crimson velvet and gold which she presented to everybody, -and curtsied; a servant followed with a crimson bag, into which she -emptied the money when the box was full. The French churches are just -like some show. We were told that a French gentleman had stayed at -the English chapel one Sunday during the sacrament; he said he was -very much struck with the stillness and solemnity, 'avec nous c'est -tout comédie.' In the afternoon, before service began, we observed a -very poor, miserable-looking man sitting with a money-box before him, -and at one side a shell full of holy water (which we did not at first -observe). Miss Wragge, thinking he was a miserable object, as she -passed dropped a sou into his box; which no sooner had she done than he -dipped a little mop which he held in his hand into the holy water, and -sprinkled it over her face. This set some women who were kneeling down -a-laughing. After mass we saw the rooms of the palace; they were very -magnificent, but I had a much better view of them some time afterwards. - -[Illustration: A PRIEST IN HIS COMMON DRESS AND A BOY] - - -NANNETTE - -_May 29th._--As we rather wanted some person to assist our servants, -Nannette, the German servant we had at Passy, was sent for. She was -most useful in going messages, as she would run all day; several people -said they were sure she was not a French woman, she was so active. -She, however, had most of the French habits; if she was making a bed, -or doing anything else, if she heard anything, down went her work and -off she went to see what was the matter. She never could do without -going to _promener_ in the evening, and going for a day up to Paris -once every week. Nannette also copied the French in eating; besides -taking the same meals as our other servants, she used to be continually -eating at odd times. Sometimes she cooked herself some _potage_, or -else she asked for _pain_ and _quelque chose_; one day she eat half a -tureen of cold sorrel soup soon after breakfast; and frequently cold -meat and bread. Besides all this, she never went out without buying -herself fruit. Her language was a strange mixture of French, English, -and German. She hated the French, and used to be very rude to them: -they in return could not bear her; they used to call her a Prussian. -Our dancing master once said, 'La Prusse est la plus vile de toutes les -nations de l'Europe.' If Nannette cleaned a room, she used to throw a -pail of water over the floor till the water ran into the passage. The -French say themselves, that nothing has spoiled the servants like the -Revolution: if anything offends them they will go off; and frequently -choose to leave you when you have company, or some time when you most -want them. - - -HEAT - -_June 1st._--This day was excessively hot: the heat lasted just three -days. - - -[Illustration: WOMAN WITH THE CURIOUS CAP] - - -WATERWORKS - -_June 3rd._--In the morning we were informed by the porter's wife -that the waters were to play. In the afternoon we accordingly walked -in the palace garden, and were very glad to find it was the case. The -gardens were very full, as a great many people had come from Paris to -see the waters play. Some of the large waterworks did not play, such -as Neptune's Bath; and some of the others only partly. Latona's basin -was beautiful; it was playing very little at first, but while we were -looking at it all the frogs began to spout water, which formed a bower -of water over Latona's head, and covered her and her children. The -frogs, lizards, etc., at the bottom, spouted water the contrary way, -which did not look so well. In the same basin at each side were two -pipes, which sent out a column of water. Apollo's Bath was playing a -little out of the horses' mouths. Two smaller pieces of water had a -very good effect: in the middle was a _jet d'eau_; on each side of one -was a lion tearing a wolf, and another lion killing a wild boar; on the -other was a tiger tearing a bear, and a blood-hound killing a stag--out -of the mouths of these figures came streams of water. The figures are -bronze. One of the large waterworks, called Le Basin de l'Obélisque, -consists of a number of pipes in imitation of reeds in the middle of -the basin, which send out a column of water to the height of 75 feet: -this waterwork was playing very little when we were there--it appeared -like a basket of froth. Some of the smaller waters are quite as pretty -as the large ones: one represents Ceres seated on some sheaves and -surrounded by children. Another, a number of children, some holding -masks, shells, and one a pair of bellows. The one that I liked best -was a small basin, in the middle of which there is a little island -which appears to be made of bronze: on this are six little children -playing with flowers, and one on each side which seems to swim or -float. Out of the island rises a column of water. The waters looked -particularly pretty among the trees. There were a great many people -in the gardens, and the variety of colours resembled a bed of tulips. -Some of the people were very oddly dressed. One woman had on a most -extraordinary cap composed of pink satin and very pretty lace; she had -a gold chain round her neck, a white gown, and pink cotton apron. (Her -cap was not at all common.) The French are very fond of colours, and -put them on with very bad taste. We saw some people with perhaps a pink -handkerchief, a blue sash, a coarse cotton gown, a yellow bonnet, and -green shoes. We saw one lady in church with a yellow bonnet spotted -with every colour; and another lady with one side of her bonnet one -colour, and the other another colour. The ladies are in general very -plain. We were told that a lady having tried to persuade an English -gentleman that the French ladies were pretty, he took her to one of -the great waterworks, where she could see ten thousand people, and -told her that he would give her a gown worth five hundred francs if -she could find three handsome women. The lady tried, but was obliged -to acknowledge that she could not. The French women have not good -figures: the old women are very fat, and the others are as flat as two -boards.[18] Many of the ladies were attended by _bonnes_, some of whom -were dressed more neatly than the French women generally are:--with -light cotton gowns, muslin handkerchiefs, and caps trimmed with -lace over blue or pink paper. The children that were with them were -queer-looking little things. The French children are old-fashioned, -dull, grave, and ugly: like little old women in their appearance. The -babies are wrapt up in swaddling-clothes like mummies, and they wear -queer little cotton hats. The nurses carry them very carefully hanging -on their arms; they say that nursing them, or tossing them about, makes -them mad. Some of the children have long hair hanging down their backs -and little hats stuck on the tops of their heads and little ridicules -in their hands. We stayed in the gardens this evening later than usual -looking at the waters, which from the terrace had a very pretty effect. - -[Illustration: A BONNE AND CHILDREN] - - -COLD - -_June 4th._--Our long-expected and much-dreaded hot weather has never -arrived, but instead of it cold, wet weather. The French said it was -an unusually bad season; they were quite _en colère_. It was this day -quite a storm; from the quantity of rain which had fallen there was a -little canal before the door; and as the dining-room was across the -yard, we could hardly get to it in wet weather without getting our -feet wet. I never felt anything so cold as it was in France. We used -to sit shivering, wrapt up in shawls to try and keep ourselves warm. -There were no grates; the fire was lighted on the hearth between two -dogs, and we used to sit round it blowing the wood to try and make it -burn: to make matters worse there were two holes, one on each side of -the fireplace, apparently made to let the smoke into the room; these we -were obliged to stuff with paper. It was as bad in bed, and though we -had sent repeatedly, we could not get any quilts and only one cotton -blanket to each bed. There were no carpets in the rooms; only bare -stone floors, from which, besides being very cold, all the red came -off on to our gowns. We were most of us sufficiently tired of France. -I would have given anything in the world to get back to England, but -we thought there was no chance of that for a long time. Every person -was dismal: one got the rheumatism, another had a cold, another was -ill, another had chilblains, and another was melancholy; and all said -they would not grumble if they did not see other people grumble. I went -from room to room, and could get no consolation. In spite of their -spectacles and processions, there was a dulness in the streets and a -want of life in the people: everything seemed to be creeping along and -looking like oysters. The boys amused themselves with a swing; when the -soldiers were exercising they used sometimes to look in at the garden -gate to watch them. The servants were very dismal: they used often to -say how much they had been mistaken in France, and what fine stories -they would tell about it when they got back to Cumberland. - - -FRENCH SCHOOL - -_June 11th._--This day Euphemia and I went for the first time to Madame -Crosnier's. Catherine had gone for some time, and given us a very -strange account of it; but notwithstanding all she had said, it was -far worse than we had expected. There were twelve or fourteen English -girls, three Miss Stephens whom we had formerly seen at Bath, where -they did not look at all nice--they were here very well dressed and -genteel-looking; Miss Fuller, a daughter of General Fuller, who had -a French mamma, a complete little dandy; Miss Fitzgerald, who was a -little plague; Miss Molyneux, a nice little girl who had been left -there; Miss Julia Carpenter, and several others. The nicest were two -Miss Wergs. The eldest was scarcely nine years old. They were sweet, -pretty little girls, with good colours; they were a great contrast to -the French girls beside them. Ellen Werg told me that they had come to -France for their education, and that their papa liked it so much that -they were never going home again; but that they and their mamma hated -it. They used sometimes to cry when they heard the other girls talk of -going home, and say, 'Oh, I wish I was going too!' We used often to -see them at church; their papa was very crabbed-looking. They could -not speak a word of French: they left school about the same time as I -did without knowing a word more than when they came. Their mamma said -it was such a ruinous school they should stay no longer. The French -girls were the dirtiest, rudest set I ever saw. They wore very coarse -dark cotton frocks or black petticoats, dirty blue or red aprons with -pockets, spotted with ink, black worsted stockings, and listen shoes. -Some of them had large bunches of keys hung by their sides, and others -sashes and braces of broad scarlet galloon. One girl--Mademoiselle -Rose--was so dirty, that even Madame Crosnier used to speak to her -about it. She had on an old cotton frock bedaubed with ink, that did -not meet by three or four inches; through the gap one saw a pair of -dirty stays and an old striped worsted petticoat, and on the top of a -frock there was a gauze frill hanging in rags. Her hair was matted with -dirt. Some of the girls had pieces of green glass in their ears for -earrings, black velvet round their head, and gilt combs with the teeth -broken out stuck in their dirty, black, uncombed hair, which hung over -their faces. Their skins were dirty and yellow. The neatest of these -young ladies was a Mademoiselle Sélina--who was conceited-looking, -and Mademoiselle Joséphine. The girls' manners were as elegant as -themselves--they called each other names, and used the most vulgar -words. If in school-time any of them were speaking, and their teacher -reproved them, they answered, 'Vous mentez, Mademoiselle, vous êtes -menteuse, je ne parle pas.' Indeed, if they were doing a thing all -the time they were spoken to, they did not scruple to say they were -not. There were, beside Madame Crosnier, Mademoiselle Allemagne, the -first teacher; Mademoiselle Croissé, the drawing mistress, who also -taught in the schoolroom; and Annette, a kind of half teacher, who -had been one of the _young ladies_. I certainly never saw an English -kitchen-maid dressed in the way she was. A dirty cap without a border, -a black petticoat, a coarse blue gown tucked up like a bed-gown, a very -coarse kind of linen apron, and shoes down at the heels, completed -her dress. She used to go about with a broom sweeping the rooms. The -girls took it by turns to clean the schoolrooms once every week. They -used to tuck up their frocks, sweep the dirt into the _cabinet noir_ -(or closet into which the litters were swept), and then throw a pail -of water on the floor and mop it up. Miss Stephens used to call it -her _malheureuse semaine_. The first morning we went earlier than -usual, school had not begun, and a number of dirty girls were sitting -or rather lying on the floor about the passages, looking like a set -of gypsies. We went upstairs to the _salle de dessin_. Mademoiselle -Croissé taught drawing. She was tall and sallow, and was reckoned -pretty. She had a pair of staring black eyes, and a great deal of long -black hair, which she seemed to admire very much, and used to bring -in pieces of butter in a curl-paper and grease it beside us. She had -done two very pretty drawings, which she kept to show. We sat down to -our drawing. Mademoiselle Croissé drew us an eye for a copy and left -us; we might do it or not, just as we pleased, she never looked near -us. Little Miss Fitzgerald had been learning drawing for a great many -months, but she had only drawn two or three sheets full all the time. -Nearly every day that I was there she did not even get out her paper, -but sat playing, talking, or running out of the room. Mademoiselle -Croissé used sometimes to stand at the window, and if she happened to -see a cat, she had such a dislike to the sight of cats that she was -obliged to send one of the girls from their drawing to drive these -animals away. At other times she was out of the room, or employed -with her own drawing, so that she had hardly time to tell us how our -drawings looked when we had done them. Once when we had just settled to -our drawings (Mademoiselle Croissé absent as usual), in came two of the -maids--'Mademoiselle, il faut sortir, car je vais baller la chambre'; -we were therefore obliged to decamp. The servants were the rudest set I -ever saw. Catherine had a music mistress, Mademoiselle Pascal; but she -begged to have her no longer. One of the pianos would hardly sound, and -they had no additional keys. The mistress did not seem to understand -music very well, and she used to like heavy playing. I do not think -it is any credit in the French masters being cheap; at least, from -the specimens we saw here they got their money very easily. Monsieur -le Chevalier, the writing master, came once or twice a week; he used -to sit down at one end of the table, and never move; he had a curious -squeaking voice. I could never find out what he did except mending -pens, and those were so bad that we were obliged to get Madame Crosnier -to mend them afterwards;-she also gave us the copies: he never saw -what I had written the whole time. Euphemia one day said to one of the -English girls, 'Pray, is that man sitting there, mending pens, called a -writing master?' As for the dancing, it was quite a farce. We heard a -great deal about the _salle de danse_, so we imagined it to be quite a -fine place; but what did this beautiful _salle_ turn out to be, but a -passage leading to the schoolroom, in which we hung up our hats, etc. -There was not a chair in the place. It was to my astonishment that they -could dance at all in such a hole as it was. Monsieur Bréton taught -here. The girls dressed in the same elegant dresses as they generally -wore, and we used often to hear them laughing, crying, and romping. Of -course we did not learn. - - -FRENCH SCHOOL - -_June 11th._--After we had finished drawing, we went downstairs into -the schoolroom. It was a long room; in it there were two tables, which -seemed originally to have been white, but they were now almost black -with ink-stains and dirt; at the top of one of the tables sat Madame -Crosnier, and at the other Mademoiselle Allemagne. We none of us did -anything but write and copy one another's writings; Madame Crosnier -sat reading the newspapers, every now and then looking up and saying -'travaillez,' or 'paix.' The girls stained all their frocks and aprons -with ink; if the rulers were inky they wiped them on their aprons, and -if there were not inkstands enough, they had a very short expedient; -they made an inkstand of the table, by pouring some ink on it into -which they dipped their pens. The paper of the room was torn off, so -that in many places one could see the canvas that covered the walls. -Round the room were hung several maps, which looked as if they had been -nibbled away by mice. The girls jumped over the stools, spirted ink at -one another, tossed about the books, and danced upon the tables;[19] -it did not seem to be in the teachers' power to make them be quiet, -though they sometimes gave them verses to write; but the most common -punishment was either making them kneel down (which the girls seemed -to think good fun), or else sending for the _bonnet de nuit_, which -they put on and laughed. Soon after we had come down, one of the -girls brought in Madame Crosnier's breakfast. She used to have such -a variety; one day fish, another asparagus and oil, another dressed -eggs, another pease, another minced beef, etc., along with this she -had bread, and wine and water; and afterwards she had a cup of coffee -and some more bread, so that she did very well. Soon after Madame -Crosnier had finished her breakfast, they had prayers; the girls knelt -down, while one of them gabbled over a prayer as quick as she could; -the only words we could distinguish were, 'C'est ma faute, c'est ma -faute, c'est ma grande faute, par St. Jean, et St. Paul, et St. Pierre' -(then all the French girls crossed themselves). Madame Crosnier and -Mademoiselle Allemagne very seldom knelt down; they used to be employed -mending pens or correcting exercises. After prayers were finished, -the girls got up and wrote as before. Madame Crosnier's two children -used to come running in, or squealing at the door most of school-time. -The youngest was quite an infant, a miserable-looking little thing, -wrapt up in a woollen cloth, daubed with dirt: the servants used to -sit in the kitchen with it on their knees, and stuff its mouth full of -curd. The other child was liked by some of the girls, but I thought -it a most disagreeable little brat: it had on a dirty, ragged, little -brown pinafore, and its face looked as if it was never washed. At -twelve o'clock Madame Crosnier rang a bell, and then all the girls -left off school, and went into the luncheon-room. The day-scholars -brought their own luncheon, mostly bread and cherries, and capillaire -or sorbet to drink; two little French girls brought a bottle of wine, -or wine and water, which they drank _between_ them. Those that did not -bring their luncheon got the sour French bread and curds, or apples. -Mademoiselle Allemagne or Mademoiselle Croissé helped the luncheon. -The girls used to eat one, and sometimes two, half slices off the flat -loaves a foot in breadth, cut very thick, and sour curd as thick as -the bread; the girls used to take dirty knives out of their pockets -and spread the curd on the bread. The English girls told us that -they got for breakfast, broth or radishes, or apples and bread; for -dinner, _bouilli_ or roast mutton, and instead of pudding, vegetables -dressed with butter; and for supper nearly the same as at luncheon. -After luncheon they used to go into the garden (which was more like -a wilderness) and skip or run, or sit and talk, or else they used -to amuse themselves in the house, in making little baskets, fishes, -crosses, birds, etc., of beads; which was very agreeable work.[20] At -one o'clock the bell rang again, and we employed ourselves much the -same as in the morning, till two o'clock, when school was over. Annette -taught in a different room, principally the little ones. We once looked -in: all the little girls were sitting dawdling and scribbling round -the table up to their elbows in ink; Annette was walking round rapping -the table with a short ruler and saying 'travaillez, travaillez.' The -youngest of her scholars, who was only five years old, used to walk up -and down the passages most of schooltime, and if any of the English -girls spoke to her she used to say, 'Moitié Anglaise, moitié Anglaise.' -She could, however, speak nothing but French. Notwithstanding the -number of English, not one of the French girls could speak a word of -English except Mademoiselle Selina, who used to say 'Good nih, good -morning.'[21] - -We were altogether very much astonished at this _genteel_ and select -school; if I had not seen it, I could not have thought it possible for -the girls to be specimens of French young ladies. I only attended a -month, and though, at first, it was a change, I was not sorry to leave -such a dirty, disagreeable place. Catherine and Euphemia were ill, and -therefore stayed a much shorter time. Madame Crosnier's fête was some -months after. I was told that on her fête she gave a ball and supper, -to which she invited (besides her own friends) all the young ladies -and their parents. One English girl said if she might she would have -no wish to come, for she knew they would get nothing but scraps to eat -and sugar and water to drink.[22] Before the fête it is the custom -to give Madame Crosnier a present. One year they gave her a gown, -another year a carpet, and this year it was to be a clock. Each of the -girls subscribed ten francs or 8s. 4d., and some of the little ones -six francs. They also gave a drawing or some present of their own. At -Christmas they each gave a pound of tea or sugar, or a pair of gloves -or some other thing. - -[Illustration: FRENCH MILLER] - -Before the girls took their _première communion_ (which they take as -soon as they are ten years old) Madame Crosnier instructed them a great -deal on their catechism, etc.; they did not come down or speak to any -of the other girls for a week before. - -Near the stables there were several girls who used to beg from every -person they met; two were quite rude. As we went we used to see people -sitting out of doors getting their breakfasts or dinners. They seemed -to have very curious messes: bread and fruit, broth, and porringers of -preserves into which they dipt their bread, for dinner. On one bench -we generally used to see a number of millers[23] sitting getting their -breakfast, with a very long roll and a knife in their hands, and a -bottle of _vin ordinaire_ beside them. - - -RUDE BOY - -_June 14th._--We had been with Carruthers to the market, and after she -had bought her things, as there were more than she could carry, she -got a boy (of whom there were plenty ready) to carry some of her goods -home for her. When we reached home she paid him the common price, but -to our surprise he refused to take it unless he could get a great deal -more; she then offered him some meat and bread besides the money, but -this he also refused unless he might carry away the plate; and to try -and frighten Carruthers he said he would go and bring the commissaire. -After remaining for a quarter of an hour the porter's wife came in, and -after scolding him for some time she at last obliged him to take the -money (which she said was more than was usually given) and the meat and -go away, which he did, abusing Carruthers all the way. This was one of -the boys who used to point at us on our way to school. - - -TRIP TO PARIS - -_June 15th._--I this day went to Paris with mamma and papa: papa had -been staying there for a few days. We had a very pleasant ride, and -reached the Hôtel du Mont Blanc, Rue de la Paix, where papa had been -before. This street is one of the best in Paris; there are footpaths at -the sides, and the boulevards run along the bottom. We walked along the -boulevards under the rows of trees; at one side there are the Chinese -baths, the outsides of which are curiously ornamented with artificial -rocks and figures holding umbrellas, etc. There seemed to be a great -many people idling about. There was a man with a canary in a kind of -moss bower; the bird was so tame as to sit still without attempting to -fly away. There was another man with a tame hedgehog, which he held -up in his hand to the people; it seemed to be playing tricks. We went -through the Passage des Panoramas, where we bought a bunch of clear -beads for five sous, a sou dearer than at Versailles. We afterwards -went to the Palais Royal, where they asked eight sous a bunch: the -shops in the Palais Royal are very dear and disagreeable. There were -some curious things at the windows. - - -FLOWER MARKET--TIVOLI, ETC. - -_June 16th._--A very fine day. After breakfast we went in a coach to -the flower-market. We walked down it: the women had on large straw -hats. There were rows of flower-pots down each side, the prettiest -collection I ever saw. There were roses, carnations, myrtles, -beautiful campanulas, geraniums, Madagascar periwinkles, etc.: -there were also strawberries, currant, apple and orange trees, all -in pots. The apple-trees were a a very small kind, the branches of -which were covered with fruit; there were likewise little oranges on -the orange-trees. From this we drove to the Church of St. Sulpice. -There is a picture over the altar on which the light falls from the -top. There was a wedding going on in it when we entered. They were a -curious-looking pair that were married. I was not near enough to see -plainly what the priest was doing, but when the ceremony was over he -passed close by us muttering to himself all the way; he was dressed -very finely, but he was the most horrid-looking old man I ever saw; he -reminded us of the Inquisition and everything horrible. - -Near the church is the Fontaine de St. Sulpice; it is a very plain -little fountain. From this we went to Notre Dame, where we saw the end -of a christening. After that we went to the Fontaine des Innocents; it -is a large, high fountain, with several lions' heads, which were not -playing when we saw it. From this we drove to Tivoli. In going to it we -passed through the narrowest streets I was ever in. I do not think two -carriages could possibly have passed. They were very dirty and close, -and had such disagreeable smells; I was not sorry to get through them. -We got out at Tivoli, and walked under a kind of trellis-work up to the -house where you pay. Tivoli is not near so nice, or so large as Sydney -Gardens at Bath. There are several winding walks bordered with Austrian -roses, box, etc. There are a great number of swings and roundabouts -of ships, swans, and horses. We saw a man playing at a kind of game; -to a long wooden box was fastened a string with a wooden bird at the -end of it; he threw it so as to fire a pistol, and then Cupid came out -of the top. At one part of the garden there is a steep hill; at the -top is a temple, and near the bottom a sort of grotto; at the top are -kinds of carriages, and whoever wants to ride down gets into one; they -slide in grooves down the hill and under the grotto. I should think -it would be a frightful thing. After we had walked over the garden we -went into a café and got some cakes and wine. We then left Tivoli and -walked up to Montmartre; it is very steep up to it, but when one gets -to the top near some windmills one has a view of the whole of Paris -and the country round it, quite like a panorama. On our way home we -stopped at several shops to buy a cap; but they asked us very dear, and -had nothing particularly nice. At some shops there is written 'English -spoken here,' and on one 'English _spiked_ here.' It requires a great -deal of bargaining to get things for a right price. At some shops there -is written 'prix fixe.' The people in the shops are remarkably plain, -and plainly dressed. - -[Illustration: THE FOUNTAIN WITH THE ANIMALS] - -[Illustration: THE CUPID AT TIVOLI] - -[Illustration: LATONA'S BASIN] - - -SUNDAY - -_June 17th._--No sooner were we out of bed than there came several men -before our windows, and played tunes. One man came into the street -with a fiddle, which he played on, made grimaces, and jumped about as -if he were crazy. He was a most extraordinary-looking creature; he -was dressed like a merry-andrew, with a white wig and a queue on his -head; if one had seen him in England one would have thought he was mad. -While he was capering about, another man came into the street with a -puppet-show; he put a table on the ground, and made first some men -and women, and then a carriage, go round it[24] In the middle of the -day we walked in the gardens of the Tuileries, which were excessively -crowded, and through the square of the Louvre. It is the most beautiful -thing of the kind I ever saw; I think it is a much more magnificent -palace than that of Versailles. It is beautifully carved round every -window and door, and excessively white and clean-looking. I altogether -admired this palace, and the Colonne de la Place Vendôme, the most of -any of the buildings in Paris. In the evening I walked with papa on -the boulevards as far as the Fontaine de Bondy, which was not playing. -It was dark when we came back, and the boulevards were crowded with -people. The cafés were lighted up, and were full of people sitting -taking refreshments. There were stalls like a fair, puppet-shows, and -conjurers. I never saw anything so unlike Sunday.[25] - -[Illustration : FRENCH PUPPET SHOW] - - - -LUXEMBOURG-MAN AND STILTS, ETC. - -_June 18th._--We went to the Palais Royal (on our way we bought a -souvenir). I wanted some little remembrance of France: we went into -several shops in the Palais Royal, and the cheapest thing I could get -there was a little gilt cart and horse, for which the woman asked ten -francs. We, however, got it for eight, which was far too much, as we -got as pretty a one in the Rue de la Paix for half the price; we also -got some silk winders of mother-of-pearl. The shops in the Palais Royal -are very dear and disagreeable: the people seem to make quite a favour -of selling you anything.[26] Near this we got some strawberries and -cream in a café (Véfours). After that we drove to the Luxembourg. We -walked in the gardens, which are _very_ formal, but pretty in their -way; there are a great many flowers and roses growing out of the banks -of grass. There are a few basins of water, and a great number of -statues. We did not see the inside of the palace. As we were returning -we saw the King in his coach a good way before us; he had a great many -attendants with him. In the afternoon we dined at Major Cape's. Most of -the party liked France very much. Just before we went there we saw a -crowd in the street, and after looking a little while we observed a man -dressed up in scarlet _à la_ Henri Quatre, with a feather in his hat, -on horseback. He rode up and down, and seemed to be making a speech. -The people then made a large circle round him, and three little boys -and a girl who were with him, dressed up like merry-andrews, got on -stilts, and marched and danced before him. The man then got off his -horse, and got on stilts; the man and the children were on stilts so as -to make them the same height, so that the least, who did not look above -five or six years old, must have been more than a yard from the ground. -They all took hold of hands, waltzed, _sauteused_, ran under each -other's arms, and danced a fine figure-dance. The man did the worst. -They danced to the beating of a drum; the little one curtsied on his -stilts, and after they had done, the man put him on the horse, and sent -him round to collect money. We stayed very late at Major Cape's; and I -was glad to go to bed when we came in. - - -RETURN TO VERSAILLES - -_June 19th._--This was the last day I was to stay in Paris, for which -I was very sorry, as I liked being in Paris a great deal better than -in Versailles. There are some very amusing things in Paris, though I -do not think it is to be compared to London. We expected Miss Wragge -and brothers and sisters to see the museum, which we had been long -promised. Miss Wragge, Barbara, the two boys, and Caroline came just -after we had finished breakfast; but Catherine and Euphemia were so ill -they could not come. (Catherine was not well when we came to Paris, but -we hoped by this time she would have been better.) After they had come -we bought some gilt gigs, baskets, etc., in a _very_ cheap, _civil_ -shop in the Rue de la Paix, where there were a great many little -ornaments. We also bought some silk shoes at a good shop near. After we -came in, Mr. and Mrs. Fisher called. We did not go to the museum, but -went instead to the Louvre, where we had a longer view of the pictures -than before; I did not like them better this time than when I first -saw them. There were several Quakers in the Louvre; we saw some in -the streets of Paris at different times. As soon as we came back from -the Louvre we returned to Versailles. On our way we saw the Duchesse -d'Angoulême in an open carriage. When we reached the Avenue de Sceaux -we found Catherine _very_ ill, and Euphemia not at all well. - - - -COMMUNION - -_June 20th._--Before breakfast we went to see the girls and boys take -their _première communion_ at Notre Dame. The church was so full we -could hardly get near to see them.[27] The first set of young ladies -that came in were dressed in white muslin frocks trimmed with lace -and satin, white sashes, gloves, shoes, and ridicules, lace and white -satin caps, and lace or muslin veils; the next set were dressed in the -same way with pink sashes; the third set blue; the fourth set green; -and the two next sets white. After that came a school of girls dressed -in buff cotton frocks and common muslin veils, who seemed to be poor -girls: several nuns sat with them. Another set had on thick white -frocks. All the girls sat in a seat by themselves. The boys had bows -of white ribbon on their arms. Madame Crosnier's school was very smart -with white sashes like the others; those of her girls who did not take -their communion were dressed in neat white frocks, scarlet sashes, and -Leghorn bonnets. Madame Crosnier and her teachers were very nicely -dressed. The girls had every advantage that dress could give them; but -we could not help remarking how very different a set of English girls -would look to those with their dingy complexions. They had candles -in their hands, which they lighted and blew out several times during -mass. Some of the candles were very much ornamented with gold paper, -etc.; one had a little gilt basket filled with flowers round it, and -others lyres on them. I thought there was a great chance of the girls -setting fire to each other as they sat close together. While we were in -the church there were two women with a little child beside us, which -squalled and fretted the whole time. It first would have one thing, -and then another. The women managed it excessively stupidly; they -first gave it a cake, then snatched it away from it, then whipped it, -then kissed it; and they looked at each other as much as to say it is -impossible to make it be quiet. The French children are little petted, -disagreeable, spoiled things; they say that it hurts their health to -find fault with them.[28] They are very dirty, and their heads are -covered with a cap of dirt which they call the _Écaille du bon Dieu_, -and it is reckoned a kind of sacrilege to take it off. Even the highest -ranks of people do not comb their children's hair till they are two -years old, that they may be covered with this cap of dirt, which, they -say, prevents them having sore eyes and makes them cut their teeth -easily. Another prejudice that they have is that nursing and tossing -the children about makes them mad; the doctors say that it is only the -dull air of _England_ that requires it:[29] some of them say that it -is that which causes so many mad people in England. The consequence is -that the French babies are dull, heavy, and stupid. We were obliged to -leave the church to go to breakfast, so we missed seeing the girls take -the sacrament, which they take on their tongues and eat whole without -breaking it. After they had done we saw them go home; Madame Crosnier's -school went in a coach. In the evening we went again to Notre Dame, -where one of the priests preached a sermon to the boys and girls that -had taken the sacrament, and told them to prepare for being confirmed -the next morning. After the sermon was finished they walked in -procession round the inside of the church, the girls first and the boys -after, with lighted candles in their hands. Some of the candles were -so much broken that they could hardly hold them upright. One or two of -the girls did not look more than six or seven years old: we supposed -that they had not been taking the communion, but were only walking in -the procession. It was altogether a pretty sight. After they had walked -round the church they all went home. When they receive their _première -communion_ it is customary to give the priest something: this time they -gave a clock. - - -TREE BURNT DOWN - -_June 23rd._--This day is the fête of St. Jean. We were told that in -the evening there was to be a tree burnt down opposite the palace. -Accordingly Miss Wragge, brothers, and some of the servants, went to -see the ceremony. A tree was fixed up round which were tied bundles of -straw and faggots, and a guard stood round it. The son of the governor -of the château came out in great style, attended by several servants, -with a torch in his hand; he set fire to the tree, and the people tried -to pull away the faggots as they were burning. The whole party gave me -a very poor account of it. The servants said they could not think what -made the people make such a fuss about seeing a bit of a tree burnt -down. - - -FÊTE DIEU - -_June 24th._--This was the _Fête Dieu_, a grand fête day in France. -Soldiers and priests were passing all the morning. There was a -procession at eight o'clock, which I did not see. At half-past eleven -we went to the Avenue de St. Cloud, where we were told the procession -would pass. There were a _very_ great number of people, amongst others -our porter's wife, who ran to get near the procession that the priests -might touch her baby. We stood near Madame Crosnier's school; the girls -(except Mademoiselle Rose, who was much as usual) were neatly dressed. -There were soldiers along each side of the avenue. We were amused at -several women who tried to run quickly across before the procession. -After we had waited for a long time the procession at last came:--1st, -three men on horseback; 2nd, a man in a red gown trimmed with fur, who -carried a large red flag--two boys held the strings; 3rd, a man in -purple who held a purple flag--two boys held the strings; 4th, a priest -with a red flag--two priests held the strings; 5th, pioneers and a band -of music; 6th, priests singing; 7th, a number of priests with books and -crosses, and a concierge; 8th, priests with censors full of incense, -and baskets full of flower-leaves;[30] 9th, several priests holding a -crimson velvet canopy, under which was the Bishop of Versailles, an -old man of eighty-four. A number of pages dressed in coats embroidered -with gold, fleurs-de-lys, etc., and a number of officers, closed the -procession. Along each side of the avenue there walked the boys and -girls who had taken their _première communion_, dressed as before. -The girls walked on one side and the boys on the other. One of the -girls was dressed in white silk and a blue and gold mantle, with long -hair over her face and back. We were told that this little girl was -dedicated to the Virgin; she was a very curious-looking figure. Several -nuns walked with the girls. After them, along each side, there walked a -number of priests in very brilliant dresses, gold, red, and green, etc. -Besides these there were priests in different parts of the procession. -Every now and then the procession stopped, and the priests that went -before the bishop turned round and threw incense and flowers, which -looked very pretty. - -After the procession had passed, we went to see the _reposoir_ of the -Lyceum, which we were told was the prettiest. It is a building like -a temple. The doors were shut, but a very civil, gentlemanly-looking -person let us go in. The pillars were hung with wreaths of green, and -there were rows of trees in boxes up the middle, cut like those in -the gardens. The altar was a good deal ornamented: there were golden -candlesticks, artificial flowers, etc., on it. They were putting away -the things while we were there. The person who let us in said it was -customary to give away the flowers; we got two or three, which were -all that were left. Before the _reposoir_ there was grass laid for -the priests to kneel upon; we saw some women picking it up. There was -another _reposoir_ in the Avenue de Berri, and one near us at the end -of the Avenue de Sceaux, which was made slightly up, out of doors. -There were flower-pots on the sides, and a cross of lilies and roses on -the top. The children had dressed up little chapels on tables against -the wall, in the streets, with little figures, vials full of flowers, -coloured paper, etc. As people went by they came to beg 'pour la petite -chapelle.' One girl who came was quite a monster: she had no nose, and -two teeth that stuck out of her mouth like tusks. Out of some of the -windows in the streets were hung pieces of tapestry and old carpets. - - -_June 26th._--Catherine was now extremely ill; indeed, no person -seemed very well. What with the cold, and one thing and another, we -grew more dismal than ever. This day papa told us for our comfort (for -the first time) that as soon as Catherine was able we should all go -home. This piece of intelligence made us all happy for a short time, -as it was what we did not at all expect. I cannot tell what made me -dislike France so very much; one reason I think was that I raised my -expectations too high. I had heard so much of the fine climate, the -excellent fruit, and the lively people, that I was quite disappointed -at the cold weather, the bad fruit,[31] and the dull people. Besides, -I felt so far away from home that I grew quite unhappy. Nothing seemed -agreeable; I was tired of the gardens and the processions. My greatest -amusement was a little rose-tree that died soon after I got it. In the -morning when I got up, the only thing I wished was that the day was -over, and that we had a day less to stay at Versailles. The family that -had lived above us was now gone. Miss Ward and Miss Johnson--two Irish -ladies, with Mab, their French servant--now inhabited that part of -the house. They had come to France on account of being ill. They were -remarkably civil in sending down 'comed-milk,'[32] fruit, or anything -else they thought Catherine might like. - - -BAKER - -_June 28th._--Carruthers saw our bread-baker standing at the street -door talking to some women, with _nothing_ on him but a _small_ apron. -The French do not seem to have _any_ idea what delicacy is. - - -LAVOIR - -_June 29th._--We went to the _lavoir_ which is at the end of the Avenue -de Sceaux. It is covered at both sides, and the water is between. There -are boxes full of straw placed along for the women to kneel on. They -beat the clothes with wooden things of this shape. When we saw it this -time there were twenty women. One - -[Illustration: shape] - -good-natured, civil kind of woman took us to see her wash-house, -where she made lie. She told us a great deal about the _lavoir_. A -porter takes charge of it; the _blanchisseuses_ pay three, and the -_bourgeoises_ four sous each time, and so much for line for drying -their things upon. It closes at seven o'clock. The people go to the -porter and say, 'Place my boxes in such a place for so many,' and -then he arranges them accordingly. I took a sketch of the side of the -_lavoir_; the people seemed very much amused at it. One disagreeable -kind of woman called out, 'Mettez moi en peinture, elle n'est pas -gentille, je suis plus gentille qu'elle,' and then she held up her face -to show us how pretty she was.[33] She told us to draw a woman with a -barrow, and she laughed and said, 'Elle est blanchisseuse de torchons.' - -[Illustration: LAVOIR] - -In France they do the things up _very_ well, but in the washing they -spoil them very much. They put the clothes into some kind of liquid -which brings the colour out, and they beat them almost into holes. A -gown of the servants' was quite spoiled. Our washerwoman had a little -girl with green bead baskets in her ears. - - -DUCHESSE D'ORLÉANS' FUNERAL--MARRIAGE - -_July 2nd._--We went to the Avenue de Paris to see the funeral of -the Duchesse d'Orléans, which was to come from Paris. It was close -weather; one heavy shower came on and obliged us to take shelter under -the trees. There was a person sitting on a stone who told us she was -reduced, and talked[34] a great deal. There were soldiers along both -sides of the avenue as far as the eye could reach. There were a great -many cuirassiers; when the sun shone on their steel armour it glittered -very much; two of their horses got loose and galloped all the way down. -We waited above two hours before the funeral came. First there came -three men on horseback, and after them several other men, then several -shabby post-chaises, and next the hearse, which was covered with black -velvet and silver. After that came guards, pages, people, carriages, -etc. The avenue was _crowded_ with people. - -[Illustration: CUIRASSIER] - -At twelve o'clock we went along with Miss Ward and Miss Johnson[35] to -Notre Dame to see the marriage of Marshal Soult's nephew to the _femme -de chambre_ of the Duchesse d'Angoulême. We sat very near the altar. -The church was excessively full; there were a great many English. -The bride was not at all pretty. She wore a white gauze gown trimmed -with flowers, over a white satin slip, and a veil fastened round her -head with a wreath of white roses. She was little, and had not a good -figure; the waist of her gown was very long and made very high in -front (which most of the French gowns are), which was not improving -to her figure. Marshal Soult was a vulgar-looking man, with a cross, -disagreeable countenance. His nephew was not ill-looking. There were -three bridesmaids, who looked old enough to be the bride's mother; they -were little and fat, and queerly dressed. The marriage ceremony was -chiefly done by the priest; he read and prayed by himself, and seemed -to have nothing to do with them. At last they each held a lighted -candle; the priest read some prayers to them; and one of the little -boys brought them a silver castle and a silver plate to kiss. Marshal -Soult seemed to look at it with great contempt. During one part of the -ceremony a curtain was held over them. While the ceremony was going on -we saw the priest do something that appeared very irreverent. After he -had been praying on the steps of the altar, no sooner had he risen than -he spit on them: we afterwards saw him dancing across the vestry. After -the ceremony there was a collection of money. Miss Ward told us only to -give a sous or two; we observed the bridegroom thought he had given too -much, as he took out of the plate what he had at first given, and put -in a smaller sum. - -After we returned from the church there was a great deal of rain, -thunder and lightning. - - -PALACE ROOMS--TRIANONS - -_July 3rd._--A very hot day. We went along with uncle Lancaster to see -the inside of the palace. The first part we were shown into was the -chapel. It is extremely beautiful and magnificent. We looked at it over -the railing, which is marble and gold; the ceiling is painted, and -the organ (though silver) is very light and pretty. We next entered -the Salon d'Hercule. It is 64 feet long and 54 broad. It is entirely -composed of beautiful marble; there is a great deal of painting and -gold about the ceiling. The Salle de l'Attendance, Salle de Vénus, -Salle de Diane, Salle de Mars, Salle de Mercure, etc., are all much -alike, decorated with painting, gold, and marble. After passing through -these splendid apartments several other large rooms appeared quite -small. The King's library is not fine, nor the bedrooms of the King -and Queen. There are some very curious glass closets in which one sees -oneself reflected at the top, the bottom, and all sides, apparently -without end. The Å’il de BÅ“uf is a long room, but not very splendid. In -it is a picture of Louis XIV. surrounded by his family; at the end is -a round window like an ox's eye. There is a very plain dining-room, -white, with small paintings, which, though _nothing_ like the other -rooms, I liked very much; it was quite a relief to my eyes after so -much splendour. The Salle de la Guerre is a good deal painted and gilt; -there are some very good imitations of bronze. From this you enter the -Grande Galerie, which is 222 feet long, 32 broad, and 40 high. There -are seventeen large windows, and as many mirrors opposite to them. -These are separated by pillars of marble. On the ceiling is painted, in -nine large pictures and eighteen small ones, the history of Louis XIV. -From the windows of this gallery you have a good view of the gardens. -When we were there they were repairing part of it. We passed from this -to the Salon de la Paix and several other apartments. The Salle de -l'Opéra is very large, and I dare say when it is lighted up it would -look very fine; but I thought it far the least pretty of any of the -rooms; it looked gone to ruin. The staircase in the palace is marble. -The only piece of furniture in the whole palace is a small clock. I -don't think I ever saw anything so unlike the residence of a king: -there appears to be nothing but gold, marble, glass, and paintings. A -man shows the rooms, to whom you give something; both times I was there -it was full of people. - -We went through the gardens to the Grand Trianon. The rooms are all -on one floor. They look very different to the rooms of the other -palace, but amusing in their way. We waited in a hall for the person -to conduct us through the other apartments. In one of the rooms there -is a beautiful inlaid table, round which are represented the signs of -the zodiac; it was made by a pupil of Sicard who was deaf and dumb. -The beds have plumes of white feathers at the top; they reminded us -of hearses. Some of the chairs are very pretty tapestry worked in -lilies, roses, and birds. There are also several tapestry pictures. -There is a long gallery between the windows, in which there are a great -many models of ships. There are also several statues and some curious -little agate ornaments in it. In one room there is a beautiful green -malachite-of-copper basin, and slabs of the same, given by the Emperor -of Russia to Maria Louisa; the man who showed us the rooms did not seem -to like to speak about it. In the same room there were some common, -vulgar tongs, such as one would not see in a kitchen. There were gold -arrows on the chimney-piece for lights, and very pretty lustres. I -think the palace is a great deal more _amusing_ than the other. After -we had been through the rooms we got some cider and cakes at the place -where we left our umbrellas. We did not see the gardens, which are said -to be pretty. - -When we were rested we went to the Petit Trianon. There is nothing -at all to see in the rooms; it is like any small private house. The -Queen's bed is gold muslin, and the walls of the room are covered -with blue silk. The gardens are remarkably pretty; they are made -in imitation of English gardens, designed by the unfortunate Marie -Antoinette, and have none of the stiffness and formality of the other -French gardens. At one part of the garden there is the figure of a -Chinese holding an umbrella; it ought all to turn round like a swing. -Near that is a small theatre, or rather music-room. There are little -streams in different parts of the gardens, an artificial river, and -a pond. After you cross a bridge with rocks at the sides, you enter -a dark grotto, from which you go out by a staircase. There is a -music-room and a temple and a tower; the man _told_ us that the late -Queen used to get on the top of the tower and sing. The pond scenery -makes quite a pretty landscape; several willows overhang it, and three -or four swans were swimming in it; at one side there is a farm-house, a -dairy, and a mill. We were told that the Queen used sometimes to dress -herself up like an English farmer's wife, and call herself Mrs. Browne; -she used to stay at the farm, and her attendants used to dress up as -her servants. - -We returned home very much tired with the heat; in the evening there -was rain, thunder and lightning. - - -MADAME VERNIER - -_July 6th._--As our house was very cold, and the stone floors were -thought to be bad for Catherine, we took a house in the Rue Reservoir, -which we this day went to; before we went, however, we had quite a -battle with Madame Vernier. We warned her a fortnight before that we -were going to quit the house; but it was at five in the afternoon, -and she said we ought to have given her warning before twelve; she -therefore charged us for another month. As mamma knew this was -an imposition she was determined not to pay it. She sent for the -proprietor of the house (who was very civil), and also for Madame -Vernier. The proprietor talked to her a long time, but she would -take no less; he then wanted Miss Wragge to go with her to the _juge -de paix_, which of course she did not do. Madame Vernier had been a -camp-follower: she was a great, fat woman with a voice like a man's. We -heard of several tricks that she had played the English; she said that -the French had payed plenty of contributions, and she was determined -that the English should make up for it. Once when some people would -not pay her what she asked for, she went round the house and picked -out every scratch and hole, saying a franc for this, and so much for -that, till she made up the sum she wanted. Another time she charged an -unreasonable price to some people who were dining there (her husband -was a _restaurateur_), and on their refusing to pay it she locked the -gates and threatened to detain their trunks. As the gentleman was very -lame, he was glad to pay what she required and get off, though they -had bargained before for dinner at so much less per head! When mamma -knew what a woman she was she determined not to pay her for the next -month. Accordingly she sent for papa, who was at Paris, and papa and -Dr. Murdoch (who had resided long in France and spoke French perfectly) -went along with Madame Vernier to the _juge de paix_, who said she -was wrong, and in case of her detaining our trunks gave papa the name -of a _huissier_. Madame Vernier told the _juge de paix_ that papa had -attempted to strangle her, to which he replied that she looked more -likely to strangle one of the _garde de corps_. She told him that he -knew nothing at all about it, and came away in a great passion. She -then got a relation of hers who was a lawyer's clerk (or something of -the kind), and she brought him upstairs to convince us. The proprietor -tried to persuade her to take the money; she, however, refused it; but -when she found papa was determined not to give any more they all went -downstairs, and after consulting a little while, she sent up to say she -would take the money. After this contest she was, like a tamed lion, -and was quite civil. We went to our house in the Rue Reservoir, which -we did not find quite so comfortable as we had expected. - -[Illustration: MADAME VERNIER] - - -NEW HOUSE - -_July 7th._--Our new house was nearly opposite the theatre, which on a -Sunday, particularly, was crowded with people; every Sunday evening a -number of drunken people passed our windows; one Sunday we counted six -close together.[36] Our servants went one day to the play, but it was -so dirty that it made them quite sick. Near our house was a priests' -school; we used to hear the boys singing a great part of the day and -sometimes in the night. Behind our house there was a small garden with -very little in it. When mamma went to see the house two of the rooms -were carpeted, and everything was very comfortable. Although Monsieur -Grincourt had several days to prepare it, when we came to our new -house the carpets were taken up, the curtains were taken off some of -the beds, and everything was uncomfortable. The fireplaces were full -of every kind of rubbish. There were not enough plates, glasses, etc. -And we were reduced to many curious expedients. The French are very -dilatory about bringing things. We saw they did not intend to give us -back our carpets, as the next day they sent a frotteur[37] to clean the -floors; however, as we had taken the house with a carpet, we told them -to bring it, and we used to send Nannette to scold every day till at -last we got all we wanted. They also brought quilts for the beds, but -they gave great charges that they were to be taken off at night. We -got two tea-kettles which were a most extraordinary shape. The French -make some little things very nicely, and other common things extremely -awkwardly. There was a bath in the house, and the room adjoining it was -remarkably damp; a great many toad-stools grew in the closet; there -was also an ants' nest below the floor. The porter's wife was _much_ -younger than the one in our other house; her husband lived at Paris; -she had one son of eleven or twelve, a very rude boy. Different people -lived above us, latterly a Mr. and Mrs. Spurrier. Mr. Spurrier was -determined his French servants should do like English servants; if he -succeeded, I think he did more than any person did before him. - - -SUNDAY - -_July 8th._--The lady above stairs played the whole day without ceasing -on the harp; the boys at the priests' school made more noise than usual -in their playground; numbers of people were going to a village fête; a -great many people passed by on their way to the theatre, among whom was -Mademoiselle Croissé; we counted six drunken people; shops were open as -usual, and people going about their work as on any other day. On Sunday -Madame Crosnier's girls spent the day in working and dancing. - - -VILLAGE FÊTE - -_July 9th._--We went in a carriage to see the village fête of -Louvécienne. Little Miss Foaker went with us. It was a fine evening. -Louvécienne, or Lucien, is above four miles from Versailles; it is -very pretty about the village. There were lamps hung across the trees, -and seats placed round on the ground where they danced. Three fiddlers -were stuck up in a kind of orchestra, and they played a very dull tune -extremely badly. I was very much disappointed in the dancing: it was -more like a funeral than a dance. The figure was a quadrille. They -walked it all till they came to the setting, which they danced in their -way, which was almost duller than the walking. All the time they were -dancing their faces were as grave as judges: they behaved as if it was -a lesson they wished to be done with; as soon as the dance was done -they laughed, pulled each other round, and ran off to buy a sweetmeat -at one of the booths; then they came back as grave as possible. One of -the nicest girls was dressed in a white gown, pink apron, green shoes, -and a gold chain; there was one very impudent, disagreeable, vulgar -woman, dressed in blue cotton. Some were in white, and some had on red -petticoats, high caps, gold chains, etc. There were booths, stalls, -whirligigs, roundabouts, etc., like an English fair. We saw an old man -and woman of sixty or seventy riding in a roundabout. At the other end, -near some trees, there was a party of ladies and gentlemen; they danced -much like the peasants, in some respects worse--one or two of them, -however, danced tolerably well. This party had rather better music, but -very dull. As we went away they were beginning to light the lamps. It -looked very pretty to see the people under the trees, but the dancing -nearly put one to sleep, and the music was like a funeral dirge. They -say that the French like dancing better than anything, and we heard it -very much admired. For my part, I think it is neither graceful, nor -pretty, nor merry. - -[Illustration: VILLAGE FÊTE] - - -MUSEUM - -_Tuesday, July 10th._--We went up to Paris at nine o'clock to see the -museum; it was a fine morning, but rather cold. It is a very pretty -drive; the country is beautiful about the Seine. There were a great -many bluebottles and scarlet poppies in the corn, more than I ever saw -in England; the fields looked like a sheet of blue and red. In Paris -they sell pretty wreaths of bluebottles. We met a cart guarded by -eight soldiers, with nothing in it but old chairs and broken tables. -We arrived at Paris at twelve o'clock, and went to two flower-shops, -where were beautiful artificial flowers. The carnations were scented. -They had not many wreaths: the flowers that brides wear are the buds -of orange flowers. We bought several single flowers, jessamine, roses, -camilla,[38] japonica, etc. From this we all went to the cabinet -d'Histoire Naturelle. We remarked the floating baths on the Seine. When -we reached the Jardin des Plantes the museum was not open, so we walked -in the garden till three o'clock, when the doors are opened. There was -quite a crowd of people of all ranks. I think it is wonderful that the -things are not hurt, as the people press close to the glasses. We went -to the upper gallery first, that we might have more time to examine -it. Several rooms open one into the other. There were soldiers with -swords in their hands, walking up and down. We had not time to look at -everything; we only skimmed over the things. The first rooms contain -above two hundred monkeys; we scarcely looked at them at all. In this -museum there seems to be every kind of creature. There is a great -quantity of bats of all sizes; a rat with a young one on its back; -some very small mice, marmottes, opossums, armadillos, lions, tigers, -panthers, etc.; a horse; most beautiful little deer, some very small; -a chevrotin; cats and dogs. These were all in _glass cases_ round the -room. In the middle of the room there were two enormous elephants, a -rhinoceros, etc., a hippopotamus, which is a frightful-looking creature -with an immense mouth. On the top of the cases there is a morse. In -the middle of the next room there is a whale, a wild ox, a buffalo, -and a cameleopard which almost touched the top of the room. There was -the skin of a snake, like a trunk of a tree, near the top of the room. -The animals in the middle of the room were not in cases. There was a -great variety of springboks, sjrisboks, etc., in this room, and also -porcupines, foxes, and a variety of other animals. - -The most beautiful and amusing room was that in which the birds were. -There were a great many owls; pink spoonbills, scarlet flamingoes, -toucans, parrots of every colour, very pretty kingfishers, penguins, -cassowarys, peacocks and hens; there was one petrified ibis. The most -beautiful were the humming-birds; their colours were quite dazzling: -some were very small, and others larger. There was one beautiful -forked-tailed humming-bird: its throat was of the most brilliant green, -and its breast amethyst purple; the rest of its body was a shining -black. The topaz humming-bird is also very pretty; it has a yellow -breast and a red topping. The red-throated humming-bird is also pretty, -but not so brilliant as my favourite fork-tail. One of the larger -humming-birds is all bright black, like velvet, except the neck, which -is the colour of an emerald. No colours could express the brightness -of their plumage. There were several nests which were whitish. In the -same case with the humming-birds there were some scarlet creepers, -very bright and pretty, and one or two blue creepers which were like -precious stones. We examined this case longer than any other. - -There was a glass case up the middle of the room in which were -lobsters, corals, shells, sponges, etc. In one part all the insects -were arranged. The butterflies were the most beautiful things I ever -saw. There was one very large blue one that dazzled my eyes to look -at; another black and bluish lilac; and the Amboyna butterfly, an -immense green and black one, with most brilliant colours and shining -like velvet. There were several small ones striped yellow and black; -one very beautiful small scarlet and purple one; several very large -greyish butterflies or moths which had small clear spots in their -wings like glass; there were two or three smallish butterflies marked -with every colour like marble. The large butterflies were excessively -beautiful. There were several English ones beside them that looked -quite dull and ugly. There were a great many large moths; one grey and -a great deal marked was even bigger than the green butterfly; there was -another beautiful large grey moth with purple eyes in its under wings. -Besides the butterflies there were several other insects: dragon-flies, -the colours of which were quite gone; enormous spiders; a great -variety of bees; an ant lion at the bottom of a small pit; very large -caterpillars; and a great many other insects. - -We then went to the lower gallery, which is not so amusing; but there -are some curious fishes, a crocodile, very pretty marbles, a large -piece of gold ore, and a great variety of stones, etc. Instead of real -precious stones there were only imitations in glass, which looked very -shabby. I was very sorry to leave the museum; it was the most amusing -and beautiful thing in France. It closes at five o'clock. After we had -left it we returned to Versailles. - - -DUCHESSE DE BERRI--DUCHESSE D'ANGOULÊME - -_July 15th._--Hearing a great deal of noise amongst the boys in the -priests' school, we enquired what was the matter, and were told that it -was the Duchesse d'Angoulême and the Duchesse de Berri come to visit -the priests' school. We went out to see them, and after waiting a very -long time for them, they at last came out, got into an open carriage, -and drove away very quickly. There were a lady and a gentleman in the -carriage with them, and several soldiers on horseback. There were a -great many priests and boys looking out of the windows. Neither the -Duchesse d'Angoulême nor the Duchesse de Berri are pretty: the Duchesse -de Berri has very red eyes. Before this we had heard of the death of -Buonaparte. A man used to go about the streets with a bundle of papers, -crying, 'Voici les dernières paroles, et la confession importante que -faisoit Napoléon Buonaparte avant de mourir.' We were told that this -was a famous spy. It was hot weather for two or three days, and every -person watered before their doors. - - -ENGLISH ROBBERS - -_July 17th._--This evening we had just returned from walking in the -gardens when we were told by the servants that three English robbers -had been just then taken up. There were two men and a woman, who had -robbed some English at an hotel in Paris of a great deal of money, -and gone off with it; they were, however, all stopped and taken up -at Versailles. We heard of another Englishman that had swindled. An -English lady told us that at Boulogne there were quantities of English -who came over in debt, and that a prison there was so full of English -that it was called the British Hotel. - - -HAYFIELD--MUSIC--CHILD - -_July 18th._--This (and several other) evenings we walked to the -hayfield near the Trianons. There were a great many grasshoppers and -brown butterflies (meadow arguses) flying out of the haycocks. We sat -down on the hay, and Miss Wragge got a wisp of hay round her leg, which -she took for a snake; this amused the people very much. Near here we -used to see some little pensions of poor children going out to walk. -At the gate of the Trianons we saw a little child of about three years -old standing. It came up to us with a straw in its hand, which it held -like a soldier; it then put it to our faces and tickled them. We asked -it where it lived; it said 'là -bas.' Miss Wragge gave it a sou. The -French children have a very forward manner; they come up to strangers -and talk quite at their ease. We returned by the gardens. There was -now a band of music (every Wednesday and Friday) in the King's garden, -or the Tapis-vert. There were a great many flowers out in the King's -garden: many different sorts of columbine, honeysuckle, syringas, and -roses on sticks. The trees in the garden (Hartwell) are not cut like -those in the rest of the garden, but are suffered to grow naturally. -The music was not pretty; the players seemed very much afraid of tiring -themselves, as they rested more than half the time. While the music -played to-day, the Tapis-vert was crowded with people. We observed -one little boy, who did not look more than three or four years old, -with light curly hair and rosy cheeks; he had a kind of little bag -before him, in which were different sweetmeats--dogs, lambs, etc. He -ran to every person and begged them to buy; his little sweetmeats were -a sou apiece. At first we thought it looked very pretty to see the -little fellow selling the things, but we soon discovered that he was -accompanied by a very disagreeable woman, and as the child followed and -plagued every one it was quite unpleasant. As we returned through the -gardens we saw some watering-pots--great, awkward, copper things--which -we drew on our nails. This was a fine day. - -[Illustration: - -1. PROCESSION AT THE PREMIÈRE COMMUNION - -2. AND 3. PROCESSIONS AT THE FÊTE DIEU - -4. _REPOSOIR_ IN THE AVENUE SCEAUX - -5. ONE OF THE CHILDREN'S LITTLE 'PETITES CHAPELLES' - -6. A PASSING SOLDIER IN THE STREET - -7. THE TROUBLESOME BOY IN THE KING'S GARDEN] - - -MONSIEUR SOUPÉ - -_July 20th._--Monsieur Soupé (from whom we got our wine) was the King's -wine-merchant. He told us that there were 500 bottles of wine a day -drunk in the King's house, and that the bills are settled every night; -and that the King breakfasts at twelve o'clock on eggs and tea. He -told us also that he had seen Buonaparte dine, and that he never took -longer than eleven minutes. In the beginning of Louis XVI.'s reign 1300 -bottles a day were drunk. - - -SHEPHERD - -_July 21st._--This evening (being fine) we walked past the Trianons. -We met a shepherd with a flock of Andalusian sheep, and two fine dogs -with pieces of wood hung to their necks. He had a crook in his hand, -and a bag with a bottle in it by his side; one end of his crook was -brass, and at the other there was a kind of little spade. We stopped -to talk with the shepherd. Papa asked him what the dogs' names were; -he answered 'Petit et Beau-Rouge.' The wood was round their necks so -that he might know them. He said that he used the crook to catch the -sheep by their legs. He told us that the use of the spade was to punish -his dogs, and to explain what he meant, he dug up a piece of earth and -threw it at them. Papa asked what was in his bottle. 'Méchant cidre,' -he answered. Papa gave him a franc to fill the bottle. - - -BAL CHAMPÊTRE - -_July 26th._--We drove out in the carriage this afternoon with -Catherine, who was getting better, and who frequently drove out. We -went round by the Trianons; in the forest we saw some pretty roebucks, -which bounded through the wood. We passed a field full of lilac -poppies. In returning we stopped at the Boulevard de St. Antoine, where -there was a _bal champêtre_. There were lamps hung on the trees. The -music was very dull. We saw them dance two quadrilles. One _garde du -corps_ danced in a most extraordinary manner: he jumped and hopped, -and kicked and bounced, as if he had learned off a bear at the North -Pole. His partner, a little girl of ten or eleven years old, danced -very well. One lady in a pink silk bonnet seemed as if she had learned -in the French style, but wanted to dance lighter, for she walked two -or three steps and then jumped up. They all kept bad time, walked and -hopped. The three Miss Williams and their father were there. In the -middle of their dance a heavy shower of rain came on; everybody ran -into a house or went home. We saw the Miss Williams standing under a -tree, like three white graces, half-way home. - - -TOADSTOOLS, ETC. - -_July 28th._--This was an excessively rainy day; we found ten -toadstools in Catherine's room. There were several people dining here; -there were fires in the rooms, which everybody was glad to get near. It -was wet, disagreeable weather. We were all waiting eagerly to go home; -the days seemed like weeks. To make them appear shorter, I made a list -of all the days till the time we were to go home, and I scratched out -one each day. This day was Nannette's fête; she went to a Dutch frow (a -German woman), who gave her a nosegay. - - -BELLE VUE - -_July 29th._--We drove out this evening to Belle Vue. It was a fine -evening. We saw a man standing before his door watering some boxes full -of mushrooms. At Belle Vue we went through a house where we had a very -fine view of Paris, the Seine and St. Cloud. We looked at a vineyard; -there were no grapes on the vines there. We heard that the bad season -had injured them.[39] - - -PRIESTS WITH HOST--CORPSE, ETC. - -_July 30th._--As we were walking out, we saw some priests carrying the -host to a sick person across the street. A boy in red and white walked -first, carrying a lantern on the top of a stick; next went another boy -carrying a cross. After him two men in scarlet holding a little red -canopy over the priest who carried the host. The sick man died next -day. The servants saw the body laid out in the _porte cochère_ with a -vessel of holy water and a ladle beside it; every person that went past -took a ladle full of holy water and sprinkled the corpse with it. - - -VILLE D'AVRY - -_August 4th._--We drove out this evening to Ville d'Avry. This drive -is the prettiest I saw about Versailles; there are woody banks and -paths, more like England. It was late when we reached the village, -but there was a clear, bright moon; and a woody hill with a house on -the top, looked exceedingly pretty in the moonlight. There was also a -house under a woody bank covered with vines; and a man was standing on -a ladder pruning them. This place is beautiful; more like what I had -imagined France. We got out of the carriage to see it plainer. - - -KING AND WATERS - -_August 6th._--We were told this morning that the King and Prince -Leopold were expected at Versailles. Quantities of troops passed our -windows in their way to the Avenue Trianon, where the King was to -review them. There were some La Roche Jacquellines on black horses. -At about twelve o'clock we went (along with Mr. and Mrs. Spurrier) to -Neptune's Bath, near which the King was to pass. The women charged a -franc apiece for our chairs. There were rows of soldiers behind the -trees. There was a great quantity of people around Neptune's Bath; -there seemed to be nearly all Versailles.[40] - -There were several carriages waiting for the King in case it should -rain, etc.; one of them was gold and red, very gaudy-looking. A -carriage came on first before the King. When the King came, one needed -four eyes: to look at the King on one side and round to Neptune's Bath -at the other, for as soon as ever he came the waters began to play -like fairy-work. The water shot out of each vase, Neptune's horses -spouted, and the whole water seemed covered with spouts and cascades. -In the first open carriage was the King, the Duchess d'Angoulême, -Monsieur, and the Duchess de Berri. Prince Leopold did not come. -Several carriages followed with attendants. The King is a _very_ fat, -contented-looking man. As soon as the carriages had passed the waters -stopped. It was an extremely pretty sight. The King went on to the -Trianons and stayed there for a long while. When he returned the waters -played again. They came back with large bunches of flowers in each -carriage. We saw great numbers of the soldiers returning. Although the -waters played for so short a time, some of the pipes burst. It costs -1200 francs every time the great waters play. The _restaurateurs_ make -a great deal of money when they play, as it brings numbers of people -from Paris. About a week before this the _restaurateurs_ caused it to -be put in the newspapers that the great waters were to play; and this -brought a great many people, who found to their disappointment that it -was all false. - -[Illustration: GARDE ROYALE. INFANTERIE CHASSEUR, Ier RÉGIMENT] - - -SÈVRE - -_August 7th._--A very honest man with a _voiture_ was to come for -us from Abbeville, and then we were to go home. We expected him on -Thursday, but to our great joy he came to-day, two days sooner than -was expected. The whole house was in confusion; I was so delighted -that I hardly knew what to do. We set off directly to see the china -manufactory at Sèvre. The day was very fine, and we had a most pleasant -ride. The rooms in which the china was were up a long pair of stairs. -In the first room there was nothing but plain white china: the plates -are a franc apiece. There were beautiful large painted vases, some -with landscapes on them, some purple, and others brown. Very pretty -white baskets of flowers; three little children under lace veils made -of white biscuit china. Curious-shaped salt-cellars; an inkstand the -shape of a boat, etc.; several pictures, one of the King, the Duchesse -d'Angoulême, Sappho, etc.; beautiful cups with humming-birds painted -on them; a set of plates with flowers, jonquils, polyanthuses, etc., -on them; another set with roses, and another with vegetables, with -their names marked in gold; Bacchus and Ceres in a car drawn by bulls -ornamented with wreaths of gold flowers--the figures are white; a -set of plates with Eastern pictures on them, and another with birds -beautifully painted. There are several very large vases: one with a -purple ground that cost 27,000 francs. There is a large china table on -which Minerva is represented presenting the Louvre and other galleries -to France. Another table, on which there are different palaces, cost -35,000 francs. There were also some very pretty white ornaments, with -cones on the top and baskets of grapes about them. On one plate there -is a view of Windsor, and on another General ---- drowning in a river -in Egypt. - -[Illustration: - -1. THE SHEPHERD OF THE ANDALUSIAN SHEEP - -2. PRIESTS CARRYING THE HOST TO SICK PEOPLE - -3. DANCING UPON STILTS - -4. BEGGAR WOMAN IN A BOWER OF DEAD LEAVES - -5. THE VIRGIN IN THE CHURCH OF ST. REMIS] - -The man told us that china was much cheaper than formerly. There was -a transparency in the window; and some round pieces of glass on which -were feathers, flowers, sea-weeds, etc., made in the shape of birds. -From Sèvres we drove to St. Cloud. We could not go in front of the -palace because the King was there. I did not think it pretty; there -were a number of stalls and shops near it which did not look well. -There were a great many guards. We returned home by Ville Daure, a very -pretty drive. As soon as we got home the whole house was in a bustle, -as we were to set off next morning. We had shoes to buy, calls to make, -bills to pay, clothes to get from the washerwoman's, masters to pay, -gowns to get from Mademoiselle Bouillet, and things to pack up. In the -midst of all this bustle, Nannette, who had gone up to Paris, had not -returned when she promised, so we left Versailles without her knowing -it. We tasted some green almonds at dessert, which were tasteless and -insipid. The servants packed till two o'clock in the morning; they got -the clothes from the wash at twelve at night. All was confusion, but -every person was merry. It was the happiest day we spent in France. I -went to bed with delight, happy to think it was the last night I should -sleep at Versailles. - - -WEDNESDAY - -_August 8th, 1821._--We had a cool but pleasant day to begin our -journey. Miss Wragge did not get her gown from Mademoiselle Bouillet -till we were all in the carriage, and she declared she would not go -without it, and told the man to drive off. At last after _great_ -bustling we set off at eleven o'clock; papa, mamma, Catherine and -Caroline went before in the carriage, the rest of us went in the -_voiture_. I never felt so little regret at leaving a place. I looked -with joy at the houses and people, glad to think I should see them no -more. We sang most part of the way. At a distance we saw the convent of -St. Cyr. We passed the very long, fine aqueduct of Marli, and a small -one further on. About here it was pretty country; there were a good -many vineyards and orchards in corn. We had a view of Mount Calvary; -near which we saw a set of gypsies by the side of the road. We then -saw the Seine running through a pretty valley; and numerous vineyards -continued to St. Germains, about which the country is pretty and well -wooded. We stopped for some time at Poissy while the man rested his -horses. The house was like a public-house, but the mistress was a civil -little woman. There was a cloth on the table on which was some Gruyère -cheese, a loaf of bread and some pears; we took the pears, which were -very good: she charged a franc. She told us that an English lady had -been staying there a month. There was a pretty view out of the window. -We walked along beside the river, and got a nice view from the bridge; -there were a number of washer-women beating their clothes, and the -water was white with soap-suds. After we had left Poissy we saw several -horses carrying corn; their backs being hung with sheaves in a very -curious manner. The corn about here did not look good. There was a good -deal of asparagus; in some places there were alternate rows of corn and -asparagus. The man who drove us sang most of the time, and altered his -voice: he had been in England, and he said that when he came back to -France he could not persuade the people that in England it took only -one man to shoe a horse. He had an English dog with him, which he said -understood English, French, and Spanish. The name of the man was Jean -de Grange. Here the country was not so pretty, as there are no hedges; -the patches of corn and grass looked just like ribbons, particularly on -the side of a hill. We reached Mantes in the evening. After crossing -two bridges we saw a curious old church. The river looked full of soap; -I think the water must be very unwholesome considering the quantity of -soap which goes into it. We went to Hôtel du Grand Cerf. The floor of -the parlour was boarded, and there were two vases full of artificial -flowers; the people of the inn were civil. Two of our beds were in the -parlour, from which they were divided by doors that shut like a closet. - - -_August 9th._--We set off at a quarter to six. There were a few -vineyards, but the country was not pretty as far as Châlons. The banks -of the Seine are quite lovely, and the river looks well here, as there -are several islands in it. We saw a boat full of cattle going across -the river. There are a good many houses and vineyards on the banks. -Further on there were rows of walnut and plum trees by the roadside, -which looked very pretty. The corn looked fine, but very much laid. -There were not any animals, except here and there a skinny cow tethered -by the roadside. We breakfasted at Vernon. The room we were in was very -shabby. In one corner of a room we passed through there was a queer -jug--a boy sitting across a barrel. They brought us in an odd-looking -teapot; the water was smoked, as the tea-kettle had no lid, and the tea -tasted like herbs and water; the milk too was thymy, the butter bad, -and the bread sour. We had been told that in this part of the country -chickens were _fourpence_ a pair; the woman here told us that they were -_three francs_ and a half. It was at Vernon we saw a man sitting at the -door eating a raw artichoke and oil. After leaving Vernon there came on -a heavy shower of rain. We saw several men mowing the corn. When it was -fair, we got out at a cottage to gather some plums; the man shook the -tree, and we picked up those that fell; we gave him half a franc, with -which he seemed satisfied. We walked up a hill where we saw several -butterflies; some with black and yellow striped upper wings, and under -wings the colour of a dead leaf. There were rows of apple and pear -trees; we picked up a few apples and pears which were not ripe; the -apples were like alum and the pears like stone. The country was here -much prettier: it was more like England; we even saw a few flocks of -sheep, but they did not seem to get much: in one place they were eating -the earth. As we were walking up the hill an old woman came to beg; -the driver offered her a card of an inn, which he told her was a Bank -of England note: she did not, however, take it, but turned away. There -were several crucifixes in the villages and at the side of the road. -The women about here had generally short petticoats, and _very_ high -caps. The babies were wrapped up in swaddling-clothes, like mummies. We -stopt at Louviers. The inn was very poor and shabby. The mistress had -on a curious cap with long muslin lappets. While dinner was preparing -we walked through the town. We went into a curious old cathedral, where -were several figures with candles burning before them, and some Virgins -dressed with little veils, artificial flowers, etc. There were a great -many people kneeling down and repeating prayers. We went into a shop -to look for some caps, but they asked a great deal for the commonest, -so we did not buy them. The women here all wore the high caps. There -was one little boy with long flaxen hair, and the lady who was with him -took off his velvet cap to shew us his hair. On our way home we saw -the same man and boys dancing upon stilts that I had seen at Paris: -there was a great crowd round them, and a woman went about collecting -money, saying, 'Encouragez la petite famille.' When we reached the inn -dinner had been ready some time. As soon as we had dined we continued -our journey. We passed Pont Large in going out of the town. The country -was beautiful, and we had another view of the Seine; they were making -hay on one of the islands. Our eyes were quite refreshed by seeing two -or three green fields _hedged_ in, with a few cows feeding in them. -Certainly if any person wished to have a pleasant impression of France -they ought to come this way: it is beyond comparison prettier than the -Calais road; the banks of the Seine are so beautiful. Near Rouen there -is a chalk rock and several caverns with people living in them; and we -had another beautiful view of the river. It was dark when we reached -Rouen. It is an old, ugly town, but there appeared to be some good -shops. We stopped at the Custom-house (there were a number of ships -near it): they did not examine our trunks, but sent a person on to -the inn with us. We went to the Hôtel de Normandie, which was all in -confusion; the father of the people there was _just_ dead: their mother -had been dead two years. When papa and mamma asked what we could have -for dinner, they said anything; after it was ordered, however, they -brought in only very few of the things and said the table d'hôte had -eaten it all: and then they brought in two raw pigeons and asked if we -would like to have them dressed. One of the hotel servants had been at -Brighton, and she said she was very sorry to leave England, and was -going to try to get there again. She spoke English tolerably. - -[Illustration: LOUVIERS WOMAN] - - -_August 10th._--Before breakfast we went to see the Church of St. -Ouen, where there is a beautiful wheel-window over the organ. One of -the churches here is like a coach-house. We set off again at nine. The -streets we passed through were extremely narrow and dirty, and the -town looked very busy, particularly about the shipping and river.[41] -We had a fine view of a hill just out of the town. There were a few -hedges here. We saw a coffin covered with black and white velvet on -some chairs before a door, with several candles burning round it, and -a procession of priests and boys with crucifixes at a distance. As -we were walking up a hill we saw an old beggar woman sitting by the -roadside in a bower of dead leaves: her petticoat was covered with -patches of all colours; she begged of us as we went past. We also saw -two very curious figures with gilt caps and red cloaks. We did not -see _near_ so many beggars this way as we did on the Calais road. We -stopped at Tôtes, where we dined. Before dinner we walked out past a -long building; we asked some women what it was: they told us it was a -corn-market, which belonged to Madame D'Ossonval _seigneur du village_. -We got sugared peas, etc., for dinner. After Tôtes, the country was -pretty: there were hedges like England. A good many of the people -here (especially the old women) wore ugly cotton caps and ribbons and -crosses. We walked up a hill near Dieppe. I almost strained my eyes to -see the sea; it was what I had wished to see for a long time; at last, -when we had reached the top of a hill, we had a view of the sea and of -Dieppe. We went to Taylor's English hotel. Out of the window of the -sitting-room you look upon the ships: it is close to the harbour. This -day we saw none of the curious caps we had heard about. - -[Illustration: OLD WOMAN WITH A COTTON CAP] - - -_August 11th._--After breakfast we went into the market, where we saw -quite as curious figures as we had expected. Some of the caps had -lappets like butterflies' wings, and large bunches of hair turned up -behind. We saw some of the hair hanging at a shop-door: it was coarse -like horse-hair. A number of the people were dressed in black. We saw -three women, like a mother and her daughters, coming in to market -with baskets on their arms. They had on black gowns, aprons, and -handkerchiefs; caps, the lappets of which blew out with the wind and -showed a great bunch of hair; and gold ornaments about their necks. -There was one woman selling fruit who had on a very curious cap: the -frame was made of pasteboard, and the front of it covered with gold, -silver, spangles, tinsel, etc.; round the top there was a long piece of -muslin which hung almost to the ground. The women we saw in the market -had their lappets pinned up. Some of the old women had on cotton caps. -We passed several shops (in our way to the market) full of little ivory -ships and figures beautifully cut. We walked up to the castle, from -which we saw the whole of the town. We afterwards went on the cliffs -on the outside of the castle, from which we had a view of the sea with -several boats on it. A woman came and spoke to us about a house which -she had to let; she spoke very bad French: she called _cinquante_ -'_shinquante_.' I could hardly understand the Dieppe people; they spoke -so much through their noses.[42] We wanted to buy a cap and a pair -of sabots. We went into two or three shops before we could get a cap -to our mind; we at last got a leno cap and an under cap to wear with -it, such as the women in black wore, which was the most common kind. -They told us that a gilt cap when new cost 20 francs. Our sabots cost -sixpence: the old woman thought we intended to wear them, and said we -ought to have a nicer kind. We asked several people the way to the -Church of St. Remi: the people of Dieppe seemed to have a disagreeable -manner. The Church of St. Remi is not beautiful. In one of the little -chapels there was a small figure of the Virgin Mary with a child in -her arms; her petticoats were painted scarlet, and she had on a lace -veil, a crown, and a bunch of flowers in her hand. We went to see the -Church of St. Jacques. There is a very pretty purple wheel-window over -the organ; and in a kind of recess in the wall there were a great many -figures holding a sheet covered with real flowers: before which there -were twenty-nine candles burning; several people came and stuck in a -candle. We looked into several of the little chapels: in one there was -a virgin, in another a ship, in another some filigree work in frames. -We dined at the table d'hôte. There were five English gentlemen. We -could not sail this evening, as the wind blew into the harbour; so -we went to buy pears to take in the ship next day. While we were -buying the pears we observed a number of children standing about and -looking at the fruit. Papa bought some currants and held them out to -the children, upon which they all ran away; papa and the woman told -them that the currants were for them, but they cried and seemed quite -stupid. At last one boy rather bigger than the rest took courage and -said to the others, 'Comme vous êtes bêtes'; and they all began to -eat, except one little child who screamed and tried to get away, and a -little girl who ran home. We were all anxious to go next day. - -[Illustration: FRUIT-WOMAN WITH GILT CAP] - - -_August 12th._--We walked on the pier. There were a number of men -working at the ships; and a great many people were walking about. The -women had on full petticoats, coloured jackets, red aprons, queer -caps, gold chains, long earrings, and large buckles. The children -had high caps, and very full petticoats, so that when their backs -were turned I took them for dwarfs. Even some of the babies had old -women's caps and earrings.[43] Some of the people had very curious -caps trimmed with lace; one had a cap with the crown filled full of -frills. The most extraordinary-looking creatures were the fish-women: -I could hardly tell whether they were men or women. They had on coarse -canvas petticoats, so short that one could see their red garters; blue -jackets, and canvas belts round their waists. They brought in a great -deal of fish this evening on their backs, which they threw down in the -streets. Soon after the Peace an English gentleman brought over twelve -of these Dieppe fish-women to Brighton to see England; they galloped -up and down the streets like wild things, stopping to drink at every -public-house: he kept them for a day or two, and then sent them back. -The sea looked so smooth and pretty we wished to be on it. We saw the -Irish come in. We walked out again in the afternoon beside the chalk -cliffs. There are a number of caves in them; one large one with doors -at the entrance was full of barrels, etc., and in another was a very -deep well. At each side of the pier there is a very large crucifix. -Some men were employed driving in posts, and others in filling holes up -with mud. There were more people to-day at the table d'hôte; amongst -whom was a Frenchman who had a very rough voice; he had just returned -from England from seeing the Coronation. He scraped out the inside of -his roll, and eat a great many French beans and oil. In the evening -we saw a child's funeral passing the window: the coffin was covered -with a white cloth with flowers painted on it. We all got ready to go -down to the ship. Papa had taken the ship for ourselves, as it was so -disagreeable when we came to Calais with so many people. A lady begged -that Miss Reed (her niece), who was sixteen, might go over with us, as -her father was dead, and her mother wanted her home. She therefore went -in the same ship with us. - -[Illustration: DIEPPE WOMAN AND CHILDREN] - -[Illustration: DIEPPE MARKET-WOMAN] - - -SEA - -_August 12th, 1821._--We embarked at eight o'clock on board the -_Wellington_, Captain Cheeseman: we got down to the ship by a ladder. -The moon shone beautifully on the sea. The _commissaire_ came after -we were on board; he asked William how he liked France. William said, -'Je déteste la France,' and Stewart added, 'Et je déteste la France -aussi.' We went to bed in the cabin, which was very nicely furnished; -but the beds were small and uncomfortable. Soon after we felt the ship -moving out of the harbour, and I thought with pleasure that I should -awake far from France. Mamma and Catherine, who slept in another room, -were pretty well; all the rest of us, except Euphemia, were very sick. -The light went out, and papa was obliged to awake the steward, who was -quite tipsy. The captain slept on the sofa. The steward went every now -and then to a bottle, and drank out of it. - - -_August 13th._--I awoke very sick. At ten minutes to six Euphemia went -upstairs to see England. After we had had some tea I went on deck, -where I lay down, very glad to leave the close, hot cabin. Euphemia was -a very useful little person; she went up and down, and got us all we -wanted. William and Stewart sang 'Merrily every bosom boundeth, merrily -oh, merrily oh.' I raised myself up to see England; the sight of the -white cliffs quite refreshed me. A boat came out at eight o'clock in -the evening; it was very rainy, but we soon got on shore. We went to -the Old Ship Inn; the beds were _very_ comfortable. - - -ENGLAND - -_August 14th._[44]--This morning all our bones ached after being at -sea, and everything seemed topsy-turvy. It rained so hard that we could -not go out. The rooms looked very comfortable, and in the drawing-room -there was a pretty clock, and fruit under glasses. There were two -neat, civil chambermaids, who looked nicer than some of the French -ladies. Our things went to the Custom House; they examined and opened -out everything. We had to pay for all our books and drawings, and a -smelling-bottle; and for two pipes which only cost twopence a-piece we -paid eighteenpence, through a mistake of the servants about the price. - - -ARUNDEL - -_August 15th._--Before we set out for Mrs. Howard's[45] at Arundel we -went to look at the Pavilion. I did not much admire it; it looks like -some Chinese thing. We asked a man if we could go in front of it, but -he answered very rudely that we could not. It was delightful weather -when we set off. It so happened that both when we left and when we -returned to England it was fine weather, and very cold while we were -in France. I did not think the country about Brighton so very ugly as -I had heard it was. We got on the first stage very quickly. We were -particularly struck with the neatness of the cottages; most of them -were covered with roses or vines, and the grapes were much more forward -than they were in France. Everybody looked so genteel and nice, and the -children so pretty. There is a steep hill going into Arundel, and one -has a very fine view of the castle. Before Mrs. Howard's house there -is a small terrace full of flowers; there were geraniums, and large -myrtles growing out of doors, though in France they are obliged to take -the laurels into the house in winter. - - -OWLS - -_August 16th._--It was _very_ hot to-day. In the evening we went to see -the owls at the castle. There is a great deal of fine ivy about the -keep. There are altogether seven owls. One they call 'Lord Thurlow,' -another 'Lord Ellenborough,' and two others 'barons of the Exchequer'; -they crack their bills very badly. One that had come from Hudson's Bay -could mew, bark, and make various noises. We afterwards went along a -new walk they were making, and then through a field in which were some -deer. - - -_August 18th._--We were surprised to observe this morning that the sun -was a bluish silver colour, more like the moon; we afterwards saw it -was noticed in the newspaper. We went to see the dresses of Mr. Wyndham -(the Catholic priest), who lived next door; he was a very civil old -man, and used to bring us in apricots and gooseberries. His dresses -were very splendid-purple, red, green, gold, etc. We saw the chapel; -there were artificial flowers, gold candlesticks, etc., on the altar. -As we were walking on the terrace we saw the Duke and Duchess of -Clarence, the Duchess of Kent, and the Princess Fedor, the Duchess of -Kent's daughter. We saw them afterwards in a carriage. I never saw any -place with such swarms of children as Arundel; but I thought them very -pretty after what I had lately seen. The weather continued oppressively -hot. - - -CORONATION - -_August 24th._--We set off five minutes before seven. It was very -foggy. There is a pretty hill and a good deal of wood going out of -Arundel. After the fog cleared away it was _excessively_ hot; every -person looked half roasted. There were a number of pretty cottages; -most of which, and even some of the sheds, were covered with vines, -roses, and jessamines; there were also many remarkably fine hollyoaks -before the doors. Every person looked clean and neat; there seemed to -be no poverty: we did not meet with a single beggar. It was delightful -to see the green fields full of sheep and cows, all looking so happy. -There were several boats full of ladies on the Thames. We saw London -some time before we were in it; it only appeared like a great deal of -smoke. We scarcely saw any soldiers in London--very different to Paris! -We arrived at the New Hummums, Russell Street, at half-past four. In -the evening we went to Drury Lane and saw the Coronation. The first -play was very ugly. The first scene of the coronation was a distant -view of Westminster Abbey. There were a number of soldiers and people -painted at a distance. The procession was very long and beautiful. -The herb-women walked first, strewing the way with flowers; they were -dressed in white, and pink roses on their heads, and the first had -on a scarlet mantle. The king had on a crimson velvet robe with an -immense long train covered with gold stars, and borne by seven pages. -The second scene was the inside of Westminster Abbey: the ceiling was -covered with scarlet drapery; there were a great many chandeliers, and -one could not imagine anything more magnificent. There were painted -people in the galleries, and real people at one end. There was a great -deal of music and a large harmonica. The king went up to the altar, -and they put on him a purple crown. In the third scene there came in a -sailor who sang a curious song about the coronation. The fourth scene -was the banquet. There were gold plates and such a number of lights -that they made my eyes quite sore. The champion came in on horseback -and threw down the glove: two other men on horseback followed him: the -horses reared and plunged: a man in armour made of rings stood on each -side of him. It was altogether beautiful. It was very hot. - - -_August 25th._--Before we set off we went to Covent Garden market, -and saw some beautiful fruit in the shop windows; we had not time -to go through it, but what we saw was not to be compared to the -flower-markets in Paris. We did not see anything here very pretty. It -was _excessively_ hot when we set off. We passed several pretty houses, -and we stopped at Hampstead Heath to see Mr. and Mrs. Spedding.[46] We -dined at Welwin, not a very good inn. There were several nice little -girls dancing along with bundles of corn on their heads. We slept at -Antonbury Hill. It was a nice inn, and the people were civil. - - -_August 26th._--The weather to-day was quite changed: it was cold and -rainy. We dined at Grantham. In one of the towns we passed through -there were some soldiers and a band of music. We slept at Tuxford. It -was a middling inn, and the people were civil. - - -_August 27th._--The weather continued cold and disagreeable. We -breakfasted at Bawtry. We passed Robin Hood's well. About Ferry Bridge -we saw a number of people gathering teasels. We dined at Leeds: it is a -dirty, disagreeable town. Numbers of children ran after the carriage; -sometimes six or seven got up at a time; we had nothing to do but to -watch for them. The country was very pretty. Before Otley there is an -excessively steep hill; we walked down it: a number of children got up -behind the carriage. We slept at Otley. - - -_August 28th._--It was very rainy when we set off. We went along by -a river; where was a pretty wooded bay. There was a great deal of -honeysuckle in the hedges, which smelt very sweet. We breakfasted at -Skipton, where there was a cattle-market; and saw some hills near -Settle; and passed a pretty rocky river before Kirby Lonsdale. We -stayed all night at Kendal, in the same room that we were in before, in -1819. - - -_August 29th._--We set off at seven, happy to think we were near the -end of our journey. No person in the inn was ready. It was a dull -morning. We passed Windermere and breakfasted at Ambleside. After -this we passed some beautiful mountains very much wooded, and Rydal -Water, a pretty little lake, and also Grasmere. As soon as we passed -the boundary wall and entered Cumberland the sun came out and shone -brightly for a little while. We saw the blue mountains peeping up -behind, and the clear mountain streams. We passed Thirlmere, which is -more like a river, and Helvellyn, an ugly mountain. We saw Keswick -Lake; arrived at Keswick by one o'clock, and stayed there till three. -After we had left this, a flock of sheep ran on before the carriage for -above a mile with a man and his dog after them. The sun shone as we -went up Whinlatter; and we saw the end of Bassenthwaite; the sixth lake -we saw to-day. The time seemed very short till we reached Cockermouth, -where we saw the new bridge they were building. At last we arrived in -safety at Tallantire. - - M. B. - - -Friday, _December 21st_, 1821. - - - -Printed by T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty at the -Edinburgh University Press - - - -[1] Married Lord Teignmouth, Conservative member for Marylebone, in -1838.--EDITOR. - -[2] The steward was very civil. - -[3] The packet was nearly lost going in; we lost sight of the -lighthouse in the fog, before the light was put up as a signal that -there was water enough. In standing in to discover it again, we got -into shoal water, near the breakers, and had to tack in ten feet of -water, the vessel drawing near eight feet. It was a mere accident our -not striking the ground. - -[4] In after years published a clever children's book, _Aunt Effie's -Nursery Rhymes_ (illustrated), which ran through many editions; also a -volume of sacred poems, _The Dove on the Cross_.--EDITOR. - -[5] We expected we were going for a carriage, so we could not think -where they were taking us; the custom-house looked more like a den of -robbers. - -[6] I awoke this morning very uncomfortable; although I had been very -anxious to go to France, I now felt so far from home that I would have -done anything to get back again. - -[7] The governess. This 'clever and progressive' lady published, -anonymously, in 1821, _The History of William and his Little Scholar, -Joseph, with some account of Joseph's Mother_: sketches of Cumberland -life, based on her experiences with the Brownes, from whose household -the characters were taken.--EDITOR. - -[8] There is a hedge at one side of the Forest. - -[9] At the doors of many of the houses we saw children eating something -out of a porringer and holding long rolls in their hands. - -[10] Here papa left a pocket-handkerchief which was afterwards sent, -but another gentleman got it by mistake. The French are very honest -about stealing. - -[11] They were the _SÅ“urs de Charité_; dressed in a black cloth jacket -and petticoat, a full apron, and a kind of linen cap. By their side -they carry a rosary, a death's head, and a pair of scissors. - -[12] The room we breakfasted in was painted like a panorama. - -[13] Miss Wragge went to see the Church of Notre Dame which was dressed -up with gold cloth, artificial flowers, etc., round the pillars for the -Duke of Bordeaux's baptism. - -[14] Before breakfast we bought some Leghorn bonnets at Madame Denis, -Rue St. Honoré. - -[15] As several men were looking down at the bear, one dropt a shilling -into the enclosure, and imprudently jumped in to get it, when the black -bear tore him to pieces as soon as he reached the bottom. A man told us -that the bear had never been well since. - -[16] Mamma sent a small gold earring to Paris to be mended, instead of -which they changed it for a brass one. - -[17] We saw part of the mass at Notre Dame; it was much the same as the -other. - -[18] It may be of interest to quote the remarks of the author of _The -Diary of an Invalid_ (Henry Mathews), in 1819: 'The French women must, -I think, yield the palm to their English and Italian neighbours.... It -is a curious fact that in 1814, the English ladies were so possessed -with a rage for imitating even the deficiencies of their French -sisterhood, that they actually had recourse to violent means, even -to the injury of their health, to compress their beautiful bosoms as -flatly as possible, and destroy every vestige of those charms for -which, of all other women, they are perhaps the most indebted to -nature.' _Paris, May_ 28, 1819.--EDITOR. - -[19] While Mademoiselle Allemagne was questioning them on geography, -Miss Fuller stood on the table fiddling with her hand and imitating M. -Bréton. - -[20] When we used to work at beads, the French girls were very fond of -taking our horsehair, etc. If we discovered them they used to call us -every name they could think of, 'Diable,' 'Menteuse,' etc. - -[21] The French girls seemed very ignorant; one of them (Mademoiselle -Josephe) of thirteen or fourteen, on being asked what an active verb -was, replied, 'Un verbe actif c'est un verbe passif.' Another, on being -asked what map the map of Africa was, answered, 'C'est Amérique.' - -[22] A common refreshment in French parties; and a favourite medicine -also (_eau sucrée_). - -[23] The French millers wear very large, curious hats. - -[24] We saw a monkey in the opposite balcony which played a number of -tricks. - -[25] One Sunday, when papa was at Paris, he counted nineteen places of -public amusement open; on another seventeen, besides many for the lower -classes. - -[26] The milliners'shops are very ugly, but there are some very pretty -things in the others, particularly little dolls' chairs, etc., of -mother-of-pearl and gold, and flowers at the bottom. We saw some pretty -clocks; also a snuffer dish and a pair of snuffers covered with flowers -under glass. - -[27] The girls think of their dresses for weeks before. - -[28] They spoil them very much in _some_ things, but they are not near -so _kind_ to them as the English. - -[29] I never felt anything but dull air in _France_; while we were at -Versailles six French people killed themselves. - -[30] The baskets were _very_ pretty: they were ornamented with silk and -muslin. - -[31] The fruit that we tasted in France (except the melons) was very -bad. Their best cherries--_cerises anglaises_--were so hard one was -obliged to chew them, their gooseberries were like blighted ones, and -their pears and plums indifferent. (Grapes were not ripe.) - -[32] A Cumberland name for 'curds.'--EDITOR. - -[33] She happened to be very plain. - -[34] The French are _excessively_ great talkers. If one asks a question -in the street, they tell such roundabout stories one can hardly get -away. They never say they do not know a thing. We one day went in -search of a Mr. Dyas; we enquired of nearly a dozen people the way; -they each told us _different_, and not one _right_. The people in the -house he lived in directed us to a different one. - -[35] There were several French _ladies_ with them, who, they said, gave -the most fashionable parties in Versailles, and were very agreeable. -These ladies were as much like ladies in their _appearance_ as -servants. - -[36] I think this must be a mistake.--W. B. Indeed it is not.--M. B. - -[37] A _frotteur_ is a man that comes to clean the rooms; he fastens a -small brush on to each foot and skates about the room till the boards -or flags are polished. - -[38] An old-fashioned name for camellia.--EDITOR. - -[39] It was a young vineyard; there were plenty of _unripe_ grapes in -the old ones, but spoiled by the weather. - -[40] It rained part of the time, so we were obliged to keep up our -umbrellas. - -[41] There were several pretty white buildings which were -manufactories. - -[42] A number of people were standing round a woman who was quarrelling -with her husband. - -[43] Some of their earrings were tied on. - -[44] Papa would not pay the steward anything as he had been so tipsy -(but he asked poor Miss Reed for five shillings). Papa had also a -battle with the people, who wished to make some additional charge for -landing, which was contrary to his agreement at Dieppe. - -[45] An aunt of Mrs. Browne's.--EDITOR. - -[46] Of Mirehouse, Keswick.--EDITOR. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of a Girl in France in 1821, by -Mary Browne - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF GIRL IN FRANCE, 1821 *** - -***** This file should be named 53908-0.txt or 53908-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/9/0/53908/ - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Diary of a Girl in France in 1821 - -Author: Mary Browne - -Contributor: Euphemia Stewart Browne - -Editor: H. N. Shore - -Illustrator: Mary Browne - -Release Date: January 6, 2017 [EBook #53908] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF GIRL IN FRANCE, 1821 *** - - - - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. Images provided by The Internet Archive. - - - - - -</pre> - -<div class="cover"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<h1>THE DIARY OF A GIRL IN -FRANCE IN 1821</h1> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill01" id="ill01"></a><img src="images/p0010.jpg" width="450" height="521" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">DIEPPE FISHWOMAN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="title">THE DIARY OF A GIRL - -IN FRANCE IN - -1821</p> - -<p class="author">BY MARY BROWNE</p> - -<p class="edition">WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY HERSELF AND<br /> - -AN INTRODUCTION<br /> - -BY EUPHEMIA STEWART BROWNE<br /> - -EDITED BY<br /> - -COMMANDER, THE HON. H. N. SHORE, R. N.<br /><br /> - - -<span style="font-size: smaller;">NEW EDITION, 1918</span></p> - - - -<p class="editor"><span style="font-size: 90%;">NEW YORK</span><br /> - -E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY<br /> - -681 FIFTH AVENUE</p> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - - -<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> - - -<p>The child who wrote this quaintly-illustrated -diary, eighty-three years ago, was the second -daughter of William Browne, Esq., of Tallentire -Hall, in the County of Cumberland. -She was born there, February 15, 1807.</p> - -<p>Descended, on her father's side, from a -race of sturdy Cumberland yeomen, and on -her mother's from the Royal Stuarts and -Plantagenets, she grew up, as might be expected -from this childish production, an -original and uncommon woman.</p> - -<p>A keen naturalist and observer of nature, -at a time when such pursuits were unusual, -she delighted in long solitary country rambles -round her beautiful home: an old border -watch-tower, dating from 1280 <span class="smcap">a. d.</span>, in full -view of the Solway to the north, and of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>Skiddaw and the Cumbrian mountains to -the south.</p> - -<p>An exquisite collection of butterflies and -moths is still in existence, painted by her -clever fingers from specimens reared by -herself. Each one is depicted upon its -favourite flower, and accompanied by its -caterpillar and chrysalis on the food plant. -This was, alas! left unfinished at her death, -on May 30, 1833, at the early age of twenty-six.</p> - -<p>A picture poem, painted on the page of one -of the albums of the period, in drawings so -minute and so finely finished that, like the -butterflies, they can only be adequately seen -through a magnifying-glass, still shows her -accuracy of observation, and the dainty and -patient care of her work.</p> - -<p>She loved flowers, and the garden may -still be seen where, in the very early -mornings, she planted and tended with her -own loving care such fragrant, and old-world -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>flowers as rose de meaux, clove pinks, and -gillyflowers.</p> - -<p>But these were only the pastimes of a busy -life of unselfish devotion to others. Shy, -retiring, and strangely indifferent to appearance -and to worldly advantages, she was -little understood by the merry young circle -around her. She was, as a child, even considered -stupid and slow, her governess -declaring that 'friend Mary does as well as -she can.' But children loved her, and if -there was sickness or sorrow in the village -it was always 'Miss Mary' who was wanted, -and who was never appealed to in vain.</p> - -<p>At a time when rural education was viewed -with suspicion, and Mrs. Hannah More was -contending for the right of the poor to win -knowledge, she and her clever elder sister -opened the first Sunday-school in the neighbourhood. -They also devoted several hours -of every morning to teaching in the village -dame school.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>The visit to France recorded in this diary -extended from April 25th to August 12th, -1821. Mary Browne went abroad when she -was fourteen, with her father and mother and -five brothers and sisters, all but one being -younger than herself, and all being alike in -their childish loyalty to their own country, -and their whole-hearted conviction that -everything un-English must be bad; and -that even to admire anything foreign was the -blackest treason. Starting in this firm belief, -they treasured up everything ugly, eccentric, -or uncouth that they came across in their -travels, as may be seen in the primitive but -forcible illustrations of her diary, with no -dawning suspicion that, though different, -foreign customs might nevertheless be better -than the familiar ways.</p> - -<p>They travelled slowly, in two of their own -carriages, being a party of thirteen, including -the six children, a governess, nurse, cook, -manservant, and courier.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span>The long journey; the brief sojourn at -school; Madame Vernier, their cross landlady; -and, above all, the children's delight at -finding themselves again in their beloved -England—these are all recorded with a vivid -and naive wealth of detail, which makes the -child life of the early days of the nineteenth -century live again as we read of it.</p> - -<p>The eldest daughter, Catherine, had been -in France before with her parents, in the -spring of 1815, when Napoleon Buonaparte -escaped from Elba. They were then obliged -to leave Paris hurriedly, travelling night and -day for fear of detention.</p> - -<p>To all the other children everything was -new and marvellous, and their keen, though -unconscious, delight in all that they saw is -evident throughout these pages.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="smcap">E. S. Browne.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> - -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table class="toc" summary="toc"> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill01">1.</a></td><td>Dieppe Fishwoman</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill02">2.</a></td><td>The Home of Mary Browne, with Distant View of -Solway Firth and Criffell</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill03">3.</a></td><td>Trees with Coverings like Tombstones.—The most -amusing Thing in Miss Linwood's Exhibition.—A -'Pioneer' with Long Beard and Leather -Apron.—Miss Wragge being sprinkled with -Holy Water6</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill04">4.</a></td><td>A French Woman and Child</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill05">5.</a></td><td>A French Boy and Girl, eating, at the Door</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill06">6.</a></td><td>Sœur de la Charité</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill07">7.</a></td><td>A French Postillion</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill08">8.</a></td><td>Limonadière</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill09">9.</a></td><td>Cabriolet</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill10">10.</a></td><td>Water-woman</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill11">11.</a></td><td>Part of the Funeral Procession</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill12">12.</a></td><td>Old Woman of Versailles</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill13">13.</a></td><td>A Priest in his Common Dress and a Boy</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill14">14.</a></td><td>Woman with the Curious Cap</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill15">15.</a></td><td>A Bonne and Children</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill16">16.</a></td><td>French Miller</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill17">17.</a></td><td>The Fountain with the Animals.—Latona's Basin.—The -Cupid at Tivoli</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill18">18.</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span></td><td>French Puppet Show</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill19">19.</a></td><td>Lavoir</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill20">20.</a></td><td>Cuirassier</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill21">21.</a></td><td>Madame Vernier</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill22">22.</a></td><td>Village Fête</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill23">23.</a></td><td>Procession at the Première Communion.—Processions -at the Fête Dieu.-<i>Reposoir</i> in the Avenue -Sceaux.—One of the Children's little 'Petites -Chapelles.'—A Passing Soldier in the Street.—The -Troublesome Boy in the King's Garden</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill24">24.</a></td><td>Garde Royale. Infanterie Chasseur, 1<sup>er</sup> Régiment</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill25">25.</a></td><td>The Shepherd of the Andalusian Sheep.—Priests -carrying the Host to Sick People.—Dancing -upon Stilts.—Beggar Woman in a Bower of -Dead Leaves.—The Virgin in the Church of -St. Remis</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill26">26.</a></td><td>Louviers Woman</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill27">27.</a></td><td>Old Woman with a Cotton Cap</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill28">28.</a></td><td>Fruit-woman with Gilt Cap</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill29">29.</a></td><td>Dieppe Woman and Children</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#ill30">30.</a></td><td>Dieppe Market-woman</td></tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="r35" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill02" id="ill02"></a><img src="images/p0024.jpg" width="600" height="463" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE HOME OF MARY BROWNE, WITH DISTANT VIEW OF SOLWAY FIRTH AND CRIFFELL<br /> <i>From a drawing by Lady Alton in</i> 1842</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>JOURNAL</h2> - -<h3>April 1821</h3> - - -<p class="p2"><i>April 25th, 1821.</i>—We arrived at London -about eleven o'clock: all the hotels we enquired -at being full, we drove to the British Hotel, -Jermyn Street. We passed through Cavendish -Square, which was very pretty, but I -was rather disappointed at not seeing London -till I was in it. After we had rested, we -walked through Burlington Arcade: it was -quite cool and pleasant, although the weather -was as hot as the middle of summer. There -were rows of shops along each side, which -had many pretty things in them, particularly -artificial flowers; not far from this is the -Egyptian Temple, which has sphinxes, etc., -carved on it: we saw the Opera House, which -is a very fine building. Regent's Street and -Waterloo Place are built of white stone. -Regent's Street (when finished) is to extend -a long way; at the bottom of it is Carlton -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>House, which is very much blackened by -the smoke: there is a great contrast between -it and St. James's Palace, the latter being -built of red brick, and looks like a prison. -In the evening we saw the lamps in Regent's -Street, which was lighter than any other -street I saw; one house was illuminated. -We saw Waterloo Bridge.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>April 26th.</i>—We went to see the panorama -of Naples: it was a beautiful view, there -were a number of vessels in the bay; after -one had looked long at them, one could -fancy they were moving: in one of the boats -there were some ladies sitting under a crimson -canopy; in another some fruit; in one -place there were some men fishing for mullet -in a kind of round net, with fishes jumping -through it; there was a man swimming with -a basket in one hand, and several other -figures; the ships were painted very gay -colours, the water and the sky were as clear -as crystal, and the whole so natural that one -could hardly persuade oneself that it was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>not reality. The next panorama we saw was -the battle of Waterloo: it was not near so -pretty as Naples, it seemed all confusion; the -farmhouse, however, was very natural, also -some of the black horses. We next went to the -panorama of Lausanne: the Lake of Geneva -was very like Keswick Lake, but the lower -end not so pretty; the mountains did not -look very high. There were a great number -of trees; some of them had on kind of covers, -which looked like tombstones; the white -railings and the shadows of the trees were remarkably -natural; there were several figures, -the prettiest was a little child learning to -walk. We went to St. Paul's, and just -walked through it. I thought it very fine, -but spoiled by the blackness. I had no idea -of the height till I observed some people in -the gallery, who looked no bigger than flies; -the pillars were very thick. In our way to -St. Paul's we passed by Perry's glass-shop; -in the window there was a curtain of glass -drops, with two tassels; it had a very pretty -effect, and when the sun shone it appeared all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>colours, but when we entered the shop it was -quite beautiful, there were such numbers of -large glass lamps hanging from the ceiling, -and chandeliers, etc., in all parts. We saw -the jugs belonging to a dessert-set for a -Spanish nobleman, which was to cost twelve -hundred pounds. Also a picture of a lamp -which the King had had made there: it was -gilt dragons with lotuses in their mouths; -in these the lamps were placed so as to be -quite hid. I should think it would be more -curious than pretty. We passed by Green -Park, and saw Lord William Gordon's house, -which has a very nice garden. We drove -through Hyde Park; the trees were very -pretty, and the leaves far out; we passed very -near the Serpentine. It was excessively hot -weather.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>April 27th.</i>—We saw the Western Exchange, -which is something like a large room -full of shops; from that we went to Miss -Linwood's Exhibition. The pictures were -exactly like paintings; there was a railing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>before them, so that one could not see very -near them; some of the prettiest were Jephtha's -Daughter, a nymph turning into a fountain, -a little girl and a kitten, some children -on an ass, a girl and a bird, a woodman and -a lobster; in a smaller room were several -pictures of our Saviour, the finest was a head; -there was no railing before them, and when -one looked near and could see the stitches, -they looked quite rough; we went along a -passage and looked through a kind of grating -in which there was a head of Buonaparte, in -another a lion's den; but the most amusing -thing was some children in a cottage; underneath -a shelf lay a little black-and-white dog, -which we were afraid to go near thinking it -was alive; Catherine said she saw its eyes -moving. The streets in London were a great -deal prettier than I imagined, such numbers -of shops, carriages, etc.—indeed the whole far -exceeded my expectation. There were a great -many carriages in Bond Street driving backwards -and forwards.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span><i>April 28th.</i>—We left London about half-past -nine o'clock; we passed close by Westminster -Abbey, which is prettier than St. -Paul's; we had a beautiful view of London -from Westminster Bridge, where I think it -looks best, all the ships look so lively on the -river, and London appears so large. Somerset -House is one side of the Thames; we -had another view after we were out of the -city, where we saw London much better than -when we were coming in; we saw the Monument -and the Tower at a distance: it was -delightful weather, the leaves were quite -out; we saw a great number of butterflies, -one kind of a bright yellow (that I had never -seen before). The country looked very pretty, -but the cottages were not so nice as those in -Hertfordshire; we had several views of the -Thames; we slept at Canterbury.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>April 29th.</i>—We breakfasted at Dover.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>April 29th.</i>—We embarked at half-past -nine on board the Trafalgar, Captain Melle; -we waited for passengers for above half -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>an hour; the ship was very full—there were -twelve of ourselves, a foreigner, Mr. and Mrs. -Wilkinson, six children, their uncle William, -Miss Ash, a manservant and a maid, who -were going to Smyrna; the next people I -observed were three tall young women with -hats and feathers; they had a mattrass put -in a boat, which they lay on, there was an -old woman with them; next came Mr. Johnson, -his sister and daughter; an affected -lady; Mrs. Moses and a little girl; a French -lady and her daughter; two gentlemen with -plaids; a curious old man and an old lady; -besides servants and many other people -whose names I do not know. There were -fifty passengers. It was so foggy that we -could hardly see Dover Cliffs. Before we -sailed the old man came and sat down not -far from us. He was very shabbily dressed, -and looked a curious figure. A man came -and asked him for some money for carrying -down his luggage to the ship. 'Nononono, -no no,' said the old man; 'I paid you for -my breakfast.' 'But my master, and not I, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>got that money,' said the man. 'No no no -no, 'said the old gentleman, tapping the deck -with his cane, and his stomach with his -hand. The man continued to remonstrate, -saying that he paid those who did nothing, -and did not give anything to those who -were really useful; but it was all in vain. So -he went away, and presently returned with -another man, and they both tried to persuade -the old man to give them something. -'Nono-nono-nono,'said he. 'I gave you so -much' (mentioning what it was); 'nono-no.' -'But that was for your breakfast, sir, and -not for carrying your trunks.' 'Nono-no -no; keep it to yourself, keep it to yourself,' -said he, nodding, and at last the two men -were obliged to leave the ship without having -accomplished their purpose. One of -them muttered as he went along, 'I'm sure -if I'd known this I would not have taken all -this trouble; such work as I've had, hunting -after that old man's gloves for this half-hour.' -We could not tell who he was, nor -did any person appear to know him, as they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>sometimes spoke English to him and sometimes -French, he always returning the answer, -'No-no.' He continued to nod and -talk to himself long after the men were gone, -to our great amusement. I was very sorry -to leave England, but I had not much time to -think about it, as the ship began to move. -As I had not been in a ship before, I was -very much frightened, and when the ship -leant to one side I felt as if we were all -falling into the sea together. A great wave -came over the ship, and wetted all the people -at that side, who were obliged to run up -higher. Mamma was so ill, she looked like -death. She said you might have thrown -her into the sea, or done anything with her. -After a short time I was sick also; indeed -there were hardly any of the passengers that -were not, except Euphemia, William, and -Caroline<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>. One of the plaid gentlemen was -very civil, and took Caroline on his knee. -When she was tired she crept by mamma, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>and fell asleep. She scarcely spoke a word, -except once: when I asked her how she -liked being in the ship, she lifted up her -head, and said, 'Not at all.' The gentleman -said he had come over for pleasure, and was -going back again the next day. Oh (thought -I), who can come for pleasure?—to be sick -oneself, and see every person sick around -one, to be surrounded by people who look -dead or dying, to hear women groaning, and -children crying, and to add to all, to be -shivering with cold—who can come for pleasure! -Mr. Wilkinson's two little boys cried, -and were rather troublesome; the youngest -had an immense long whip. His little baby -had just recovered from the measles; he -nursed it almost the whole time. The little -girl with Mrs. Moses had, in addition to -being sick, the cramp in her legs. The lady -that was with her did not take any charge of -her except calling out when the ship tacked, -'O child! come to this side, or else you will -be drowned.' The first time somebody was -sick, and called 'Steward,' our little Stewart -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>started up and said, 'What, papa?'<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> William -told us that he looked on one side; he saw -a spout: he looked on the other side; he -saw another spout: so there was nothing -for him to look at but the sea. There were -a number of seabirds and fishes. We got -within sight of Calais in three hours. No -boats came out for a long while, and it was -generally agreed that the men had gone to -the play; but the reason ...</p> - -<p class="center">(two pages missing here)</p> - -<p>... to their mouths to make him understand, -but he always returned the same -answer, 'O nonononono, nononono,' so they -were obliged to leave him. Only a few -people went in the boats. We laid down on -the deck, with our head on a basket and a -coat over us. The deck was covered with -people lying in a heap like pigs. It was so -disagreeable, that when I heard that we -could not get in till six or seven o'clock, I -thought that I would almost sooner go in -the next boat than stay where I was. Soon -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>after, Euphemia told me that the next boat -was come, but we did not go in that either. -Soon after, almost everybody went down to -the cabin, except Carruthers, the affected -lady, and me. The old man again began to -be troublesome: he wanted to get to a chair -at the opposite side of the cabin, and all at -once down he got on his hands and knees, -and began to crawl over the ladies, who -called out, 'O! O dear! he will crush us.' -He then wanted to go to bed, and kept -poking about: he came to Euphemia's bed, -and said, 'I'll get in here. Why mayn't I -get in here?' and he stood upon a chair, -and peeped into the bed. One of the ladies -called out, 'There's a child in that bed.' -'Nononono-no,' said he, and there he stood. -Euphemia prepared herself to jump out of -bed if he got in, but after looking a little -while he went away. Every time she spoke -to Catherine he held up two of his fingers, -and said, 'That won't do, that won't do.' -The affected lady had laid her head on our -knees, and she was never still for a moment. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>She kept continually asking how long it -would be before we got in; it was very -foggy, and the sailors had lost sight of the -fort, so this lady thought she would direct -them. 'Oh!'said she, 'I wish I could look -up; I've got such famous eyes,' and then -she sat up. 'Oh yes, I can see it.' One of -the sailors tried to persuade her that one -might fancy anything in a fog, but she still -wanted to direct them. 'I'm sure,' said she, -'I see the fort. It would be much better if -you were to go into the harbour.' They at -last said they thought we should not get in -all night.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Whenever they moved the helm, -the lady screamed out that it would crush -her. I felt very stupid and sleepy, and in a -short time I fell asleep. When they were -going in to Calais we went into the cabin; -they took me down half asleep, and when I -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>awoke I could hardly tell where I was; it -looked like a burial-ground; the floor was -covered with people and basons, and it was -almost dark; in a little while we heard that -we were going into the harbour, to our great -joy; I thought I would sooner stay all my -life in France than cross the sea again. We -reached Calais a little after eight; every -person got up and groped about: a gentleman -said it was like a resurrection. One of -Mr. Wilkinson's little girls, about three or -four years old, said, 'Papa, must my kisses -and cakes go to the custom-house?' When -Euphemia<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> was getting up she said, 'I think -we all look like wild beasts in our dens'; -one of the plaid gentlemen said, 'And you -look like a laughing hyena!' Our brothers -had been all the time in the hold with the -luggage. One of the ladies said she would -never cross the sea again, except to go home. -I was rejoiced to leave the ship, having spent -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>one of the longest and most disagreeable -days I had ever felt. When we landed it -was quite dark.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>After we had landed we went to the -custom-house. It looked like a public-house, -there were some queer-looking men -and women with long earrings;<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> here we -saw the affected lady—she pulled about her -petticoats and said they should feel that she -had got nothing about her. From this we -went to Rignolle's Hotel; it was very nicely -furnished: there were very pretty clocks on -the chimney-piece. We went to bed directly -after tea; the rooms had a very particular, -disagreeable smell.</p> - - -<p><i>April 30th</i>.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>—We took a walk on the pier: -it was excessively cold and windy; we saw -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>the place where Louis the Eighteenth first -put his foot on his return from England—there -is a little piece of brass, of the shape of -a foot, put into the stone: there is also a -pillar on which is marked the time that this -event took place. There was not much difference -between the dress of the people at Calais -and that of the English. The custom-house -officers had examined our things; they took -away nine cambric muslin petticoats, which -were slightly run up, and a worked gown of -mamma's, which they afterwards gave her -back, thinking that she might have worked it. -They took away two yards of cambric muslin -from Miss Wragge;<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> they likewise examined -a shawl and a cotton gown of the servant's -many times over: the gown had been washed -several times. The servants dined at a -table d'hôte; there was a dinner which they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>thought very fine, a dessert, wines, brandy -and coffee. Rignolle's is a very good hotel; -most of the servants speak English; it is in -the Rue Eustâche de St. Pierre.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> -<a name="ill03" id="ill03"></a><img src="images/p0041a.jpg" width="200" height="129" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">TREE WITH COVERINGS LIKE TOMBSTONES (<a href="#Page_3">p. 3</a>).</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/p0041b.jpg" width="150" height="147" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE MOST AMUSING THING IN MISS LINWOOD'S EXHIBITION (<a href="#Page_5">p. 5</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p0041c.jpg" width="200" height="385" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A 'PIONEER' WITH LONG BEARD AND LEATHER APRON (<a href="#Page_18">p. 18</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p0041d.jpg" width="450" height="387" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">MISS WRAGGE BEING SPRINKLED WITH HOLY WATER (<a href="#Page_78">p. 78</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h3>May 1821</h3> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 1st.</i>—Being sufficiently recruited we -recommenced our journey; our horses were -tied with ropes, they looked quite wild; there -were three in each carriage. Calais is surrounded -with fortifications. It was very -cold, disagreeable weather. Papa has a great -aversion to east winds, and dislikes Tallantire -on that account, so we expected that in France -we should find a delightful climate; but -alas! no sooner had we arrived there, than -we found both east and north winds. About -Calais was the ugliest country without exception -I ever beheld; there was scarcely a tree -to be seen, no hedgerows, no pretty cottages, -everything looked dirty and miserable; there -was a great deal of sand, and the country -looked exactly like a desert: I thought that -if this was a specimen of France, it was -certainly a most charming place! We passed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>through La Chaussée, a scattered village -which skirts the road for more than a mile; -after ascending a hill we had a view of the -sea, but the weather was so thick that we -could not see Dover Cliffs. Our horses -began to kick and seemed very restive, but -on the driver's dismounting and calling to -them in a curious voice they were soon quiet; -after we had passed Wimille about a mile -there was a succession of hills as far as -Boulogne: on one of them we had a view of -the town and the tower, which was commenced -by Buonaparte to commemorate his -intended victories over England. We entered -the town by an avenue of trees; we met a -procession in the Rue Grande in honour of -the Duke of Bordeaux's baptism, which was -that day to take place; it was a general fête -throughout France. We stopt till the procession -had passed. The principal things I -remarked were the pioneers with their long -beards and leather aprons, with hatchets over -their shoulders. We went to the Hôtel -Angleterre, Rue de l'Eau; it is kept by an -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>Englishman of the name of Parker. We -breakfasted on bouillon. Euphemia had -been very unwell all day: she had no appetite; -so we and Miss Wragge went out to -buy some oranges for her; we asked several -people, and enquired at a number of shops, -but all in vain, and we began to despair: we, -however, succeeded in getting some of an -Englishman—he was the only person in the -town who sold them; he told us that he got -them from England and was obliged to pay -a high duty; we only took four, as the -smallest were four sous apiece. After leaving -Boulogne the country was a little prettier; it -had not that desert appearance that there -was at the sea-coast. Before we reached -Saumur we saw a woman riding like a man, -wrong side before, on a horse, and a cow -tied to the horse's tail; in some places we -saw women ploughing. About Saumur it -was rather pretty; there were rows of apple-trees -on each side of the road, but on many -of them there was scarcely a leaf; not any of -the trees were so far out as they were in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>England. The country looks barren, as there -are no hedges. The villages in France are -also very ugly—there are no gardens before -the houses, and instead of the lovely cottages -we saw in Hertfordshire we here saw only -dirty, untidy-looking houses; it was curious -to see the astonishment of the servants, who -imagined that they were to travel through -bowers of grapes and groves of oranges. I -was most disappointed at the weather, as -I expected a delightful climate in France. -After we had passed Saumur we entered the -forest of Longvilliers; we saw some large -lilac periwinkles in the hedge.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> We reached -Montreuil in the evening; there is a very -steep ascent to the town; it is supposed -to be nearly impregnable. We went to -Varennes, Hotel de la Cour de France; it -was a tolerably clean and civil inn. They -told us there was to be a grand illumination -on account of the fête; they begged to put -some lights in our windows, and stuck two -or three candles in. The servants went out -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>to see the balls and illuminations: they said -that there were very few lights, and that they -saw some ladies going to the ball, but that, -as for the dance on the green, it was so dark -they could hardly see, but the people appeared -to be in their working dresses; that -there was one fiddler; that first one person -got up and ran across the green, and then -another; but it was nothing like dancing. -At this hotel we first saw the curious French -beds; they consist of a pole in the wall with -the end gilt, over this is thrown a curtain; -sometimes instead of the pole there is an -octagon; the beds are very uncomfortable, -and the curtains slip over one's face. The -basons are like pie-dishes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill04" id="ill04"></a><img src="images/p0045.jpg" width="450" height="722" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A FRENCH WOMAN AND CHILD</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill05" id="ill05"></a><img src="images/p0051.jpg" width="450" height="711" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A FRENCH BOY AND GIRL, EATING, AT THE DOOR</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 2nd.</i>—It was a cold, disagreeable, -rainy morning when we left Montreuil; the -country was not pretty; we went for a long -way between rows of trees, of which there -was nothing left but the stumps; the branches -are cut off nearly all the trees, which makes -them look like broom-sticks. There were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>great numbers of beggars. At every village -we passed we were followed by men, women -and children; if we gave to a few they came -in a double quantity up to the carriage-window; -in one village we counted about -twenty. Begging seemed to be quite a trade: -in some places they brought baskets with -cakes and flowers in them; if we would not -buy the flowers they threw them into the -carriage. In one place a little girl ran by -the side of the carriage and said in English -'How do you do? Very well thank you. -Give me a penny, papa. How do you do, -my dear? I hope you're very well.' Papa -asked them where they had learned to speak -English; they answered that the English -had lived there three years. In one of the -villages where we stopped two little girls -came and danced by our carriage; they -danced in a slow, dull kind of way, and sung -a tune something like our quadrilles. The -people were in general fat, plain and clumsy; -their eyes were half shut, they looked like -the pictures one sees of Chinese. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>women wore a woollen or cotton petticoat -with a body of a different colour, an apron -with shoulder-straps, and a coarse cotton -handkerchief: some had high caps on their -heads, but most of them wore a checked -handkerchief done up like a toque, and long -earrings; they had scarcely any hair to be -seen, which was very unbecoming. Their -waists were generally very short, and they -looked quite a bundle; some of them wore -sabots (wooden shoes). The children<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> were -heavy, ugly figures; they were quite muffled -up with clothes, and had very large stomachs, -and their clothes were tied over their breasts. -They had not the liveliness of children in -England; they seemed so fat they could -hardly walk,—like what in Scotland they call -<i>douce bairns</i>; they had all caps or handkerchiefs -on, even the babies. The men wore -coloured woollen nightcaps; they were much -better-looking than the women. All the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>people looked untidy and dirty. We passed -through the Forest of Cressy, near which was -fought the celebrated battle which bears its -name. We reached Abbeville about one -o'clock: we breakfasted at the Hôtel d'Angleterre, -which is a very good inn, but was rather -in confusion when we were there. At Flixcourt, -where we stopped to change horses, we -saw some people dancing on a green; they -told us it was on account of a wedding. In -several of the villages there were people -standing at their doors eating bean-bread; -in one stage we tasted it; it was rather sour, -but not bad tasting. The people did not -seem to make much use of their houses, as -we often saw them out of doors. It was -above six o'clock when we arrived at Amiens.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> -The entrance into the town is pretty. We -went to the cathedral; it has a pretty light -spire: there is a beautiful portal with figures -carved all round. The inside is very prettily -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>ornamented; the pulpit is supported by Faith, -Hope and Charity; above it are three angels -holding a curtain underneath which is the -glory; all the figures are gilt. There are -two pretty painted wheel-windows; the organ -is silver, and looks rather poor. There are -little chapels round the inside of the cathedral, -and images with cases of artificial -flowers before them. The pillars are so -formed that when you strike them they -sound as if they were hollow. I did not -think it altogether near so grand as York -Minster, but it is a very pretty thing. The -concierge told us that he had seen ten thousand -in the church. When you look up it -looks too low, as if the top was cut off. -There were several nuns<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> walking up and -down the cathedral. We returned to dinner -at the Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, where we -slept; it is quite in the French style, with -red stone floors, no grates, fine clocks, etc.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill06" id="ill06"></a><img src="images/p0055.jpg" width="450" height="715" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">SŒUR DE LA CHARITÉ</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span><i>May 3rd.</i>—In the morning when we asked -for soap they said they had none in the -house; we at last sent out to buy a piece, -and they brought us in a bit of coarse brown -soap. The soap that the French wash their -things with smells of aniseed and gives their -beds a disagreeable smell. The inn was by -far the worst we met with; and the servants -were very careless. We set out with very fine -weather for the first time, and as the day -advanced two or three butterflies made their -appearance. Our postillion seemed very gay, -as he sung most of the time; presently some -of the ropes broke about the horses' heads, -and while he was employed in mending, with -the help of another bit of rope and an old -knife, the postillion at the other carriage had -also dismounted, and was amusing himself -by plaiting up his horses' tails. The harness -often broke and the horses kicked, but the -men did not seem to mind it; if we asked -what was the matter, they always answered, -'Soyez tranquille, soyez tranquille.' The -French horses are little, clumsy-looking -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>beasts. At Hebecourt we met a kind of -covered cart full of children and nurses -going to the Hospital des Enfans Trouvés -at Paris; there was a soldier to guard it, -who sat on his horse like a woman and -slapped his horse's face. There seems to -be a great want of living creatures in the -fields; we never met any except here and -there a drove of pigs with very long legs, or -a walnut-coloured old woman leading (by a -string) a thin, miserable-looking cow. We -once met a flock of sheep which followed a -man like dogs. Breteuil is a mean, dirty -town; we had a very bad breakfast in the -Hôtel de ——.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> The country about Breteuil -is very dreary and unpleasant. We saw -several vineyards which were not near so -pretty as I expected: they were little, diminutive-looking -things, not so high as raspberry -bushes. Near the villages we saw a number -of people washing in the <i>lavoirs</i> or ponds -made purposely. There were, as usual, plenty -of beggars; some of whom came and begged -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>for bread and wine. One of our postillions -had a dog with him; he threw off his gloves, -the dog always picking them up and bringing -them to him. Soon after we had passed the -village of Wavigny we were overtaken by a -violent storm of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, -and as the storm increased we were -glad to take shelter in the post-house at St. -Just. Here we had a good deal of conversation -with a servant girl; she told us that they -kept all the cattle in stables, and never out -of doors. Seeing some pigs that looked finer -than usual in the farmyard, she said that -they had got them from a school where they -brought up pigs. She had a child in her -arms which she offered to us all to kiss. -When we asked what it eat, she said soup -and sweetmeats; she afterwards brought it -in some sugar and milk. The child had on -a cotton cap trimmed with black net: when -she took it off to show us its hair, we told -her how much better it looked without it; -she said 'yes, but that in France they were -afraid of their children catching cold if they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>went without caps': which accounts for -one's never seeing the children's neck, arms, -or hair. The people seemed to have been at -dinner; there was a large plate of cabbage, -some curd, and apples on the table. Before -we went away mamma gave the girl a franc; -she seemed hardly to know whether to accept -it or not, turned it about, and at last put it -into her pocket without saying a word. We -were amused at one of our servants saying -'It's well we're off the <i>common</i> now it rains' -(owing to the want of hedgerows and trees, -the country did look more like a common -than anything else). When we set out the -storm had abated, but the water was running -over the road in streams. A little further on -the hail was collected into large heaps, some -of them nearly three feet long, and above -half a foot thick: these were lying on the sides -of the road, and over the fields for a quarter -of a mile. We picked up some small pieces: -they were hail and mud stuck together; the -hailstones were bigger than large peas. A -few miles from St. Just we had a very fine -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>view of Clermont; the town and castle are -situated on a hill, nearly surrounded by -wood. It was about here that a little dog -which I fed with bread followed us for near -half a mile. The country was very pretty -as we approached Chantilly: the wood of -Hallate borders the road on the left, in which -we saw some wood pigeons; nearer the town -is a meadow, and canals are on each side of -the road. In entering Chantilly one of the -horses got its leg over the traces, and horse -and man fell down beside the carriage; they, -however, got up without any accident. We -drove to the Hôtel de Bourbon, an excellent -inn. The mistress is a nice, civil little -woman; the master, who is also cook, was -twenty years in England. The rooms were -very nicely furnished; in the parlour was a -jug full of lilies of the valley, which gave the -room a very sweet smell. While dinner was -preparing we walked out towards the palace -stables. We passed by several neat houses, -with gardens and trellis-work covered with -vines before the door. The trellis-work was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>arched: I should think when it is covered -with bunches of grapes it must be very -pretty. The stables consist of one enormous -building, six hundred feet in length and forty -in height; above the entrance are some very -fine figures and horses. There was formerly -a figure, which the Allies melted into cannon -balls when they were quartered there. The -palace was destroyed by a mob from Paris -early in the Revolution; a smaller château -connected with it was spared, which is now -the habitation of the Prince of Condé. -Several people asked if we wanted to see -the inside of the stables, but we had not -sufficient time. It was a very fine evening, -the country round was very beautiful; there -was a great deal of wood about it. We -walked a little in the garden belonging to the -inn; there were an immense number of cockchafers -that flew humming over our heads. -Soon after we returned there was a great -deal of thunder and lightning. Before I -went to bed I sat and watched it at a -window; when it lightened, the whole sky -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>seemed illuminated. It continued during -part of the night, so that we were obliged -to close the windows. I liked Chantilly -better than any place I had seen in France.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 4th.</i>—Before we set off we got some -rolls to take in the carriage. They were not -the rolls, a yard and half a quarter long, but -quite round like rings, that the bakers carry -hung over their arms. We took a turn in -the garden, where we met with an Irishman, -who told us a great deal about the stables, -etc. He said that the Prince of Condé had -an extensive forest, where he was very fond -of hunting; that one day he would hunt the -wild-boar, another day the roe-buck, another -the stag, and so on. After we had left Chantilly -the country was very pretty, and the -forest of Chantilly soon began to skirt the -road on the left. Near Ecouen is a seminary -for the education of the orphan daughters of -the members of the Legion of Honour. As -we approached Paris, the postillions were -very smart, their queues were well powdered, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>and at one place their boots were so large -that they stepped into them. Whenever -the French postillions come near to a town -or village, they begin to crack their whips -very dexterously, with which they make an -immense noise. The horses are tied with -ropes, have sheep-skins over their backs, and -are always three abreast. Near many of the -villages we saw crucifixes and images. There -are some little obelisks on the side of the -road, where Philip the Bold and his brothers -rested when they bore the corpse of their -father from Paris to St. Denis. There is an -avenue of trees on each side of the road which -bears marks of the ravages of war. Soon -after the village of La Chapelle we passed -the barrier of Paris. We entered Paris along -the Rue de Clichy. We stopped at Meurice's -Hôtel, Rue St. Honoré. The sitting-room -was carpeted and had a boarded floor; there -was a pretty clock and vases of alabaster on -the chimney-piece, and mirrors about the -room; the furniture was a kind of figured -blue cotton velvet, which they have a great -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>deal of in France. Meurice and many of -the waiters speak English; the inn is very -good; the servants did not seem to hear the -bells, but we thought that was probably -because we were at the back of the house, -rather out of the way. The back of the hotel -looks towards the gardens of the Tuileries. -We went to bed directly after tea.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill07" id="ill07"></a><img src="images/p0065.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A FRENCH POSTILLION</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>TUILERIES</h4> - -<p><i>May 5th.</i><a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>—We took a walk in the gardens -of the Tuileries. The palace was founded -by Catherine de Medicis, and derives its -name from having been erected on a piece of -ground appropriated to the manufacture of -tiles. The front consists of five pavilions, -connected with four ranges of buildings. The -whole façade is adorned with Ionic pillars -placed on pedestals. All the pillars are -formed of brown and red marble. The portico -of the centre pavilion towards the court is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>decorated by columns, and on each side of -the gate are statues of Apollo and a Faun. -The portico towards the garden is similarly -ornamented. On the galleries are eighteen -marble statues of Roman senators clad in -the toga, and in other parts of the façade -are twenty-two busts of Roman emperors -and generals. The extraordinary height of -the roof in front towards the garden gives -an air of heaviness to the façade. An iron -palisade encloses the coachyard of the palace. -The principal entrance to the court of the -Tuileries is by a most beautiful triumphal -arch. It was erected by Napoleon, and was -built on the plan of that of Septimus Severus -at Rome, and is said not to be inferior to the -original. It is sixty feet wide and forty-five -feet high. The centre arch is fourteen feet -wide, the others eight and a half. Each -front is decorated with four columns, supporting -marble figures, representing different -soldiers. On the outside are, on the right, -the arms of France, supported by Peace and -Plenty; and on the left the arms of Italy, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>sustained by Wisdom and Strength. Four -other bas-reliefs are over the smaller arches. -The inside of the arches is beautifully carved. -Over the centre arch was formerly the statue -of Napoleon. The gardens are the work of -Lenostre; the principal walk extends through -the whole length of the garden. The trees -are all cut, which gives it a formal look. In -the parterres of flowers are statues and basins -of water; in one were two swans, and in the -others some gold and silver fishes. From -the terrace of the garden towards the Seine -we had a very fine view of the river; and on -the opposite terrace, of the Place Vendôme, -the triumphal column, and the Boulevards -beyond. Along the walks are rows of chairs, -for which you pay two or three sous: there -are also stone seats. In the afternoon these -gardens are crowded by a gay assembly. -In returning we passed through the Place -Vendôme. The buildings which enclose the -square on three sides are uniform. In the -middle is a beautiful column 130 feet high, -formed on the model of that of Trajan at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>Rome. It is entirely covered with brass, -furnished by the artillery taken from the -Austrians. The pedestal is fitted with bas-reliefs, -and at each angle is an eagle grasping -a crown of laurel. At the foot of the column -commences another set of bas-reliefs, which -trace in chronological order the principal -events of the campaign of 1805: a spiral line -separates each row. On the top of the column -is a gallery, and above the gallery is a small -dome on which is a white flag. There were -a great many carriages in the square, so that -we had to skip first to one side, then the other. -There are no pavements for foot passengers -in the streets of Paris, which makes it very -disagreeable to walk; the coachmen drive -close to the very doors of the houses, and if -it were not for the <i>portes cochères</i>, one would -be run over by the carriages. The streets -are narrow and dirty, and the shops in general -very shabby. There were a good many -people about with nosegays; we bought a -bunch of lilies-of-the-valley and ranunculuses -for two or three sous. The flower-girls are -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>quite troublesome; they follow one and throw -the flowers into one's hand.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 6th.</i>—We were very much surprised -at having a very good plum-pudding at -dinner, and on enquiry we found that they -had one every Sunday. The servants complained -terribly of not having enough to eat; -they said that sometimes they could not each -get a potatoe: and other things in proportion. -A great many troops passed by the -door.</p> - - -<h4>JARDIN DES PLANTES</h4> - -<p><i>May 7th.</i><a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>—Soon after breakfast we set -out in a carriage to go to the Jardin des -Plantes. We crossed the Seine by the Pont -Royal; the river is dirty and muddy, the -water is so green that it cannot be drunk -without being filtered. On the bridge were -several women clipping poodles, and the -limonadiers, both men and women, were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>passing backwards and forwards with their -castles full of lemonade or sorbets on their -backs, their cocks by their sides, and their -tin cups over their shoulders, crying as they -went along, 'Voulez-vous boire, voulez-vous -boire?' Some of them had larger things, a -great deal ornamented. When we alighted -at the entrance of the botanic garden several -women crowded round us, begging us to -buy a description of the menagerie. It was -a very fine day. This charming garden was -founded by Jean de la Brasse, physician to -Louis <span class="smcap">xiii</span>. At the entrance of the garden -are several square enclosures. The first -contains different kinds of soil and manure; -in the second are specimens of hedges, fences, -and ditches; there are likewise every different -method of training fruit-trees, some like a -cup, some like a pyramid, and two trees -fastened together with a gate between them. -In another enclosure are vegetables, and in -another different kinds of fruit-trees and -bowers. We then walked to the menagerie, -near which are some very fine Judas trees -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>which were covered with lilac flowers. The -wild beasts' dens were very large and kept -remarkably clean. There were several lions, -tigers, panthers, hyenas, wolves and bears; -but what pleased me most was a dog in the -den with one of the lions. One very fierce-looking -black bear was rearing up against -the bars. The bears were formerly kept in -sunken enclosures, but since an accident -happened they have been confined with the -other wild beasts.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> At the end of the -menagerie is the aviary, the bars of which -were so close that we could hardly see into -it; there did not seem many rare birds, but -plenty of monkeys were skipping about. -Some distance off this is the house for the -elephant: it is a large-looking building near -a pond, the whole enclosed by a railing. -The elephant was plunging about and enjoying -the water while its keeper was rubbing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>it with a wet broom. In several enclosures -were antelopes, deer, elks, and different kinds -of sheep. They were so tame as to come up -to the railings and take pieces of bread out -of the people's hands. In one enclosure -were different kinds of fowls, storks, and an -ostrich, and a Botany Bay bird of immense -height. There were also two old camels, and -two young ones. There were some curious -long-eared goats, which were very tame. In -the pit, where the bears were formerly, are -now some wild boars, and several young -ones. The botanic garden consists of more -than seven thousand plants, every one of -which is labelled, and the beds are divided -by little hedges of box. A piece of water, -supplied from the Seine, is appropriated to -the aquatic plants. We did not look into -the greenhouses or hothouses: several of the -plants were ranged out of doors. After we -had passed these we ascended by a path an -artificial hill at the top of which is a kind -of temple: from this we had a view of the -greater part of Paris. The Museum of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>Natural History is at the end of the garden -opposite the entrance; it is open on Tuesday -and Friday. We could not see it the day -we were at the garden.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill08" id="ill08"></a><img src="images/p0073.jpg" width="450" height="694" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">LIMONADIÈRE</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>LOUVRE AND PALAIS ROYAL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 8th.</i>—As we had taken a house at -Passy, the servants and trunks went there: -but we staid till the afternoon that we might -see the Gallery of the Louvre and as much -of Paris as we could. In the first saloon of -this museum are the earliest works of the -French and Italian artists. In the next the -celebrated battle-pieces of Le Brun. We -then entered the great gallery, which appears -to have no end; this magnificent apartment -is fourteen hundred feet in length. The -ceiling is particularly pretty. I was very -much disappointed in the pictures; there -were such a number that I could hardly distinguish -them. The Déluge by Poussin is -very sublime. I also admired the St. Michael -vanquishing Satan. The inside of a kitchen, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>and another painting in which there is a -lamp, are very natural. There is a picture of -some dogs, and another of some game, both -of which I liked. A basket of fruit and -some butterflies is also very pretty.</p> - -<p>From the Louvre we went to the Palais -Royal. It was begun by Cardinal Richelieu -in 1629, and completed in 1636. It was converted -by the Duke of Orleans into a bazaar: -the front towards the street of St. Honoré -was built by him after the destruction of the -Opera House. It presents two pavilions -adorned with columns. After passing under -a portico we entered a square. In the -centre is a garden interspersed by young -trees and encircled by lattice work; in the -middle of the garden is a <i>jet d'eau</i>, which cools -the air very much. Round the square are -beautiful little shops; the prettiest are the -jewellers'. In the windows were a great -many ornaments of mother-of-pearl, harps, -dogs, men, carts, etc. The china-shops are -very pretty also. One very pretty ornament -was a gold boy with a china cup on his back -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>and a dog holding a stick in its mouth, at -each end of which was a glass for ink; there -were bead-necklaces, smelling-bottles, and -every kind of thing. When we returned we -went immediately to Passy. This village -was about a mile from Paris. When -we arrived at our house in the Rue Basse, -we found all hands busily employed in cleaning. -It was a large house, but dirty from -top to bottom. It had been occupied for a -year by an English family who had been -abroad for three years; their housekeeper -and lady's-maid were English, and disliked -being in France so much that they sat in -their own rooms and left the management of -the house entirely to the foreign servants. -There was a courier who bought and managed -for the family. The consequence was -that we found the house in the greatest confusion. -The kitchen was like a pig-sty, and -the rooms were very dirty and untidy. There -were backs of books, old bottles, and all -kinds of litters lying about. There was a -German housemaid who was to stay on in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>the house with us, and she and our servants -did little that day but clean. Though we -were all anxious to come to a house, I began -to think I would sooner have stayed where -we were than come here. When we went to -bed we expected at least to be at rest, instead -of which the beds were so full of bugs that -we were bit all over.</p> - - -<h4>PASSY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 9th.</i>—We got up pretty early, glad -enough to leave our dirty, disagreeable beds. -The servants began to clean the kitchen, but -the smell was so bad that it made them sick; -they therefore got two men in to clean it; -and when they came to the pipe that carried -away the dirt, they were also unable to proceed -till they got a glass of brandy. The -oven was an inch thick with dirt; when it -was a little cleaned they discovered a looking-glass -at the back of the oven. All the egg-shells, -stalks of vegetables, etc., had been -thrown under the charcoal fires; the rolling-pin -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>was covered with dirt. Indeed, a dirtier -place could not have been imagined. The -meat chopper was also an inch thick of dirt. -The cellar was overrun with lizards, and the -closets with ants, etc. It was rather more -agreeable out of doors. The front of the -house was turned from the street, and before -it were two terraces, one above the other, -which were covered with vines, and at the -end were some fine Judas trees. From the -terrace we had a view of the Seine and Paris. -The weather was fine, but we none of us -were in a humour to enjoy this view. The -porter that lived at the end of the terrace -had a little boy of five or six years old. -François was a nice boy, but, like most of the -French children, rather forward. We walked -through the village as far as the Bois de -Boulogne. There are streets in Passy like -a town, but very few shops; the people who -live there get all their things from Paris. -We picked up several cantheræ.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 10th.</i>—We now found the dirt so -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>intolerable that mamma determined to speak -to Madame Gautier, the lady from whom we -had taken the house. She said that she -would have the house cleaned and painted; -but that if we wished to leave it, not to consider -that any agreement had been made. -(Our house had been taken for a year.) On -hearing this papa went immediately to Versailles -to look after a house; when he returned -he told us that he had taken one, to -which we were to go next day. We went to -bed in rather better spirits, comforting ourselves -that it was the last night we should -sleep here.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 11 th.</i>—This morning we were busy -packing and settling our things. We were -rather at a loss about some clothes which we -had at the wash, not knowing how we could -get them. The porter, however, told us that -we might be easy, as he knew a coachman -who passed constantly by the door, with -whom he would send the things. That we -might be sure, we again asked him if he was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>certain of being able to send the things; but -he repeated his answer so often that we had -not the least doubt of his being as good as -his promise. Soon after breakfast we set off -in a cabriolet, which is rather a curious conveyance, -but very roomy. It has two seats, -one before the other, and it opens in front -where the man sits. It jogged very much -going downhill. There is only one horse. -The man drove so close behind the cabriolet -in which the servants were that we could not -see anything; on asking him to go to one -side he went straight before. Presently he -stopped and took up another man, which -they call a 'lapin,' and they chatted and -laughed all the way, frequently stopping to -get little glasses of brandy, as all the French -drivers do. They stopt for a long while -at a post-house, where the men got some -bread out of a bin in the corner, and some -wine. The people at the inn brought us out -a few little cakes, for which they afterwards -charged several francs. It was about the -middle of the day when we got to Versailles.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill09" id="ill09"></a><img src="images/p0085.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CABRIOLET</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>It is a nice-looking town. There are three -avenues up the middle. The soldiers were -exercising in the Avenue de Sceaux when we -passed; they exercised there several times a -week. We used to like to hear their music, -but they spoilt it with drumming. Our house -was near the end of the Avenue de Sceaux, -No. 6. Before the door was what they called -'Deux jolis jardins,' which turned out to be -a small garden with a walk, and two hedges -up the middle which divided it. We had -not the upper story of the house. We paid -300 francs a month. The rooms were all -round a court, so that one had to pass from -one room to get to another. The drawing-room -was furnished quite after the French -fashion: there was a round table with two -large pieces of marble on it; another table supported -by bronze sphinxes; a beautiful piece -of furniture that had belonged to the palace, -which contained fourteen secret drawers -and several mirrors. But besides this there -were two clocks, neither of which would go; -linen curtains hung on common iron rods; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>common painted frames round the glasses. -Instead of a carpet there was a very little -shabby piece of green cloth; and no grate; -and such fire-irons as you would not see in -an English kitchen. The furniture was -stamped blue cotton-velvet. On the floor -of the dining-room there was a little ragged -piece of old tapestry; this and the green -cloth were the only pretensions to carpet in -the house, so that what with the want of -grates and the red stone floors, it looked very -cold and comfortless. But that we did not -much mind, as the heat was what we always -dreaded. The locks of the doors hurt all our -fingers, they were so stiff. After we had -thoroughly looked through the house, we -went out to walk through the town. The -trees in the avenues are kept cut, which is -very formal-looking. We passed before the -King's stables. They are in the form of a -half moon; before the court is a railing with -gilt tops. The great and the little stable are -separated by the Avenue de Paris. Nearly -opposite is the palace. Higher up the avenue, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>on the side of the Grande Ecurie, is the kennel. -It looks pretty, and I think very large for a -dog-kennel; it was, however, found too small. -After walking as far as the Place d'Armes -(which separates the old from the new town) -we returned, and spent the evening in condoling -with one another.</p> - - -<h4>VERSAILLES PALACE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 12th.</i>—We went this day to see the -palace and the gardens. When one looks at -it, from the side next Paris, one might fancy -it was a town of itself, there seem so many -different buildings. As you go up to it -there are some curious-looking buildings in -imitation of tents. The iron railing that -separates the palace from the Place d'Armes -is very much ornamented and gilt, and on -each side there is a group of gilt figures. -After passing by the chapel we entered -the park. On this side the palace is -1800 feet long, and from its great -length looks rather low. The park of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>Versailles is divided into the great and the -little park, which united form a circuit of -sixty miles. The great park includes several -villages. The little park includes the gardens, -the groves, the pieces of water, etc. There -are several entrances. The principal one is -by the arcades of the palace. When one -stands in the middle of the terrace one sees -the Basin of Latona, the Tapis-vert, Apollo's -Bath, and the canal at the right, the parterre -of the north, and Neptune's Bath; and at -the left the parterre of flowers, the orangery, -and the <i>pièce d'eau des Suisses</i>. The whole -garden seems almost composed of statues -and vases. The vases are, I think, the most -beautiful things in the garden; they are -mostly of white marble (a few are of bronze), -and covered with the most beautiful carving; -some are very simple, having only a border -round them, and others are covered with -figures, sunflowers, or vines. There are also -a great many basins of water. The finest is -Neptune's Bath. It is a large piece of water -surrounded by twenty-two vases. There are -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>several groups of figures: the principal one -in the front is Neptune and Amphitrite -seated in a large shell, and surrounded by -tritons and naiads. Apollo's Bath is another -very fine one. Apollo is represented in his -car drawn by four horses, and surrounded -by sea-monsters. Latona's basin is as -curious as any: in the middle, on several -steps of red marble, are Latona and her -children, and around them, on the steps, are -seventy-four frogs, which represent the -Lybian peasants metamorphosed by Jupiter -on the complaint made to him by Latona. -Some of them seem half frogs and half men. -Besides these there are a great many smaller -basins. There is one basin which seems -gone to decay. In it is represented the -giant Enceladus crushed under the ruins of -Mount Olympus, and a number of groups of -bronze children supporting basins. Around -many of them are parterres of flowers.</p> - -<p>The Tapis-vert is a long piece of grass, at -each side of which are numerous vases and -statues. In the evening, before sunset, this -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>is the favourite promenade, and is quite -crowded by all ranks of people. It is a -favourite game to try and walk down this -green blindfold. The canal is at the bottom -of the Tapis-vert, below Apollo's Bath. It -is very long, but not very pretty, as it does -not finish with anything; it is crossed by -another canal, which conducts to the Trianon.</p> - -<p>There are a great many long avenues and -squares, several of which are closed. The -avenues looked suitable to the rest of the -garden, but <i>very</i> formal. There are also -rows of yew-trees cut into every kind of -formal shape, which spoils the look of the -gardens very much. The prettiest part of -the garden is Hartwell, or the King's garden, -which is made in imitation of the place -where he resided when in England. It is -very like an English garden. In the middle -is a column of very pretty marble, with a -small figure of Flora at the top. This -garden is railed in, but is open every evening -for people to walk in. I was very -much disappointed in the orangery: it is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>lower than the rest of the garden. Most of -the orange-trees were standing out, but there -is a gallery to put them in. There is a basin -of water in the middle of the orangery, and -borders of flowers all round. There are -immense numbers of orange, lemon, citron, -laurel, and pomegranate trees:—the oldest -orange-tree is said to be five hundred years -old; but they are by no means pretty; they -are all in large tubs; and instead of the -branches being allowed to spread, they are all -cut like box, which make them look still -more formal. Even the flowers in the borders -of the orangery are planted alternately yellow -and white. The blossoms of the oranges are -sold. From the orangery we had a view of -the Etang Suisse; it looks like a dirty pond -on a common. The whole garden is open -to every person till nine o'clock, when a -drum beats. At the entrance there is a list -of rules: no dogs are to be brought in unless -tied with a string; and nobody is to -fish in the ponds, or to touch the statues or -flowers. Notwithstanding, however, these -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>prohibitions, I have counted seven or eight -dogs at one time running over the flower-borders, -and boys climbing on the beautiful -vases, or fishing for gold and silver fish, of -which there are a great many, particularly in -Apollo's Bath. As we returned through the -court, several very ugly old women pressed -round us and asked whether we would like -to see the apartments of the palace, but we -thought it was better to defer this till another -day.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 13th.</i>—I was very much surprised to -see here, as well as at Paris, not the least -regard paid to Sunday. All the shops were -open, houses were building, and people sitting -working at their doors, seeming more -industrious this day than any other; even -the tradespeople made a point of bringing -their things on a Sunday. The English -clergyman was a Mr. Beaver. At church we -saw several people that we had formerly seen -at Clifton and Bath; it was quite full of -English.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> - -<h4>JACK</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 14th.</i>—About this time a little circumstance -happened which shows the French -inconsistency. We wanted a jack put up in -the kitchen. The mason and his boy came -first, but not finding the blacksmith there, -they went away; then came the blacksmith -and his boy, but not finding the mason, they -went away. After going on in this way for -some time, they at last all met. The mason -then took out of a paper bag some delicate-looking -white powder, which, after mixing -into a paste, he layed with great care on to -a fine silver trowel, and then proceeded to -dab it on to the wall with his fingers.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 15th.</i>—We now began to be rather -surprised that the clothes we had left at -Passy, and which the porter said he would -send directly, had not arrived. Stephens, our -foreign courier, who spoke English, was therefore -despatched to bring them. We afterwards -found that, so far from knowing a person -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>to send them by, the porter had consulted -with Stephens and asked him if he knew of -any person; so that we might have waited -long for our clothes if we had trusted to the -porter's word. The French are very fond of -making promises, but not quite so fond of -performing them; this we found to be the -case with our house: one of our beds broke -down several times; some rooms wanted -tables, some jugs, some carpets, and all -window-curtains—so that you could see across -the yard from one room to another; they -found it very easy to promise all these things, -but we waited many a week before we got -one. The English family above us had one -baby of a few months old, called Angelica -Ellen, which we were very fond of nursing. -The lady was so ill as not to be able to attend -to it, and seemed to leave it entirely to the -care of a French nurse, who attended to it -very badly. She would take it out in the -rain, or give it to anybody in the street to -hold, while she played at hide-and-seek with -the old porter and his wife, who looked to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>be above seventy; she one day let it fall -into the fire and burnt all its poor little -hands. There is a porter to all the French -houses. Our porter's wife took care of children: -we sometimes used to get her in to -clean the pans, etc.; then the nurse used to -come in also to chat with her and meddle -with the things in the kitchen.</p> - - -<h4>TRIANONS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 19th.</i>—This day was, for a rarity, very -warm. We saw in the garden a swallow-tail -butterfly and some small red moths, which -were almost the only kinds I saw in France. -I never saw anywhere so few butterflies: we -thought it quite a treat to see a single white -one. There was the same scarcity of birds; -and, notwithstanding the quantity of wood in -the gardens, we hardly heard one. In the -middle of the day we walked to the Trianons. -The Grand Trianon is situated at the extremity -of one of the branches of the canal. -We went to it from the palace garden along -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>a hayfield, near which we sometimes saw -the soldiers playing at ninepins. Near the -Trianons were some tall lombardy poplars and -some very pretty acacias. At the gate were -a great many soldiers. An avenue leads up -to the little Trianon, which, though it is -called a palace, is not larger than a small -private house. The Grand Trianon is very -pretty, but looks small after the other -great palace: it is adorned with eight green -marble, and fourteen red marble pillars. We -this day saw neither the inside nor the -gardens, but merely passed by it. Lower -down was a pond near which some sheep -were feeding, which, with the wood of the -forest, formed a pretty scene. We returned -through part of the forest, and home through -the gardens. As we were going along one of -the walks we saw a great many people running, -and on enquiring the reason we were -told it was to see the Duchesse d'Angoulême: -we saw her go into one of the walks which were -closed, and afterwards pass through the Orangerie. -She was on horseback; there were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>some ladies and gentlemen beside her, and -other attendants behind. She was dressed -in a dark habit; her eyes were red, as if she -had been crying, and she was not good-looking. -We saw her two or three times afterwards, -when she came to visit a college for -educating priests to send over the country, -and which was very near our house. We -often saw scores of students going a-walking -in their long black gowns tucked up through -the pocket-hole. They were in general very -vulgar and ungentlemanly-looking. The -people did not seem to pay them much -respect, as the porter's wife and the nurse -pointed, and then burst out a-laughing -when they passed. There were above three -hundred at the college.</p> - - -<h4>BALL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 17th.</i>—There was this day a ball -given at the palace in honour of the Duke -of Bordeaux's baptism. Mamma did not go, -as Mrs. Murray, the only person she knew -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>there, could not go on account of the death -of a friend. They said the supper was to be -very splendid. We went to a <i>pâtissier</i> to see -some of the ornaments. There were very -few, and those were not very pretty: one of -the best was the arms of France, made of -cake and ornamented with coloured paste. -They told us that there were no more ornaments -for supper than what we saw; but -there must have been more, as we saw people -carrying several out of the shop into another -room: what we saw were merely a few in the -windows. In the evening we walked towards -the palace to see the illuminations. Beside -the gate and across the court were pieces of -iron this shape <img src="images/p0062.png" width="10" height="20" alt="" /> -to which the lamps were -fastened. The carriages drove up between -the rows of lamps. Mamma and my sisters -were not a little surprised to see a <i>gondole</i> -(which is the same kind of thing as a stage-coach) -drive up to the entrance. The driver -lifted out of it a very fat, gouty lady, dressed -in a black lace gown over a white satin slip; -she had a white satin turban on her head, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>short sleeves, and dirty-looking, lead-coloured -gloves. She had very thick legs, and there -was something very peculiar about her feet. -She had worsted stockings on! This is one -of the instances out of many of the inconsistency -of the French, in dress as well as -in other things. The poorest-looking people -will have gold chains and earrings, although -in other respects remarkably shabbily dressed. -The lower class of people are much worse -dressed than the English.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>May 20th.</i>—We all now began to feel -very uncomfortable; everything was so very -different to the things in an English house. -From the drawing-room to the kitchen all -was uncomfortable, and the habits of the -people were so dirty and untidy that our -three English servants begged that they -might do the work themselves instead of -having a foreigner to assist them. Stephens -our courier was gone, so that we had often to -go with Carruthers (our cook) to the market -to speak for her. When she went by herself -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>she, however, contrived to make herself -understood; she went all round the market -and searched about till she got hold of the -thing she wanted, then she touched it and -said, <i>Combeen</i>. She soon learnt a few words -such as <i>pom-de-tary, chu, mungy, francs, -sows, kickshaws</i>, etc.; if she did not understand -what they said she answered <i>Inglytary -nong comprehendy</i>. Robins (our manservant) -got on best; he stammered out a word of -French and a word of English, till by words -and signs he contrived to get what he wanted. -One word they all knew, and that was <i>bukkah, -bukkah</i>; they were so determined not -to be cheated that Carruthers went all the -way back from the Avenue de Sceaux to the -market if she found they owed her one sou. -Notwithstanding all our care we frequently -were cheated; they will try every possible -means:<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> sometimes when the market-people -set down what we had bought, they would -write down a few more pence than they had -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>before charged, or contrive some other way -for getting money. The provisions at Versailles -were fully dearer than in England. -One of the best shops in the market was -Madame Segan's, although she, as well as -the rest, would cheat if she could. The -butter was very bad in France. Madame -Segan's was the best, but as there was no -salt in it, and they only got it once a week, -it did not keep good. The butcher's meat -(except the pork and veal) is not good: they -have a curious custom of blowing it up so as -to look very large. The French bread being -made of leaven is very sour; we got English -bread from a baker at Versailles. Another -good shop for eggs, etc., is The Black Hen.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Madame Vernier, the woman whom we -took the house from, was a <i>restaurateur</i> next -door, so we often got some dishes from her. -Her <i>chef de cuisine</i> used sometimes also to -come to our house to make dishes. It was -very curious to see his proceedings; the beginning -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>of all his dishes was the same, a large -piece of batter and a little flour; to this he -often added some bouillon. He was one day -going to make a small dish off a large dish -of cold roast beef. Instead of cutting off -a few slices, (before we saw what he was -about) he cut every bit of the beef to pieces, -and then broke the bones and threw them -into the <i>pot an feu</i>, to the great discomposure -of Carruthers. The French can make -a dish out of almost anything. One day he -began to tell us a long story about a place -where he used to dip the children, and to -show us what he meant he took little Caroline -in his arms and pretended to bathe her. -This cook was a true French figure; he used -to come in with his white nightcap and apron -on, and a sharp pointed knife hung by his -side. After scraping up the charcoal with his -fingers he used to dip two of them into the -pan, and putting them to his mouth he used -to say, 'Très bon, très bon.' He was, however, -a civil enough old man in his way.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>Another curious figure was our water-woman. -She was a remarkably ugly, vulgar-looking -old woman, and like all the old -French women, an immense size. She used -to wear a brown petticoat, a tattered apron, -and a knitted woollen body. Notwithstanding -her uncouth appearance, however, she -was by far the most polite old woman I saw -in France. Though upwards of seventy, she -one day sang us some songs very well. -When she came she used to make a curtsy -and enquire after us all in the civilest manner -possible. Indeed she was nearly the only -person whose manner was at all like what I -expected. Although one hears so much of -French politeness, I do not think that the -French are near so polite as the English. -The men make better bows, etc., but in -other things there is a kind of forwardness -in the manners of the people that I cannot -admire. If you are walking in the street -and a person happens to run against you -or hit you with his stick (which frequently -happens), he never thinks of saying anything -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>except calling out 'eh!' laughing, and -then walking on.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill10" id="ill10"></a><img src="images/p0107.jpg" width="450" height="738" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">WATER-WOMAN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>MASTERS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 21st.</i>—By this time we were sufficiently -settled to have some masters. The -dancing master who had been recommended -to us was Monsieur le Breton. I believe he -taught dancing very well in the French style -and took a good deal of pains, but he was not -a very agreeable master. The French dancing -is completely different from the English; -they think it beautiful to dance on the -flat of the foot and to bend every step, which -makes the dancing look very heavy: they do -not like jumping, although their steps are full -of little hops. Their tunes too are very dull. -The French in general do not admire the -English dancing; we were told, however, -of one English lady who had danced at the -balls, quite after the English fashion, and -whose dancing had been very much admired. -The constant cry of Monsieur Breton was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span><i>pliez, pliez</i>, and indeed part of the time we -danced on a stone floor so that we could dance -heavy enough to please him. He had expressions -like the rest of the French, such as -dancing, or working, 'like an angel,' etc. He -called the little ones Williaume, Henault, -and Coquette. Our dancing master had one -very disagreeable, though common French -trick; he used to spit so about the floor that -it was quite unpleasant to dance. He taught -six of us three times a week for six francs a -lesson. He had the smallest kit I ever saw. -He stayed two hours each time. Madame -Breton was a dressmaker. We tried her, -but she was by no means a good one. She -had three children, one of whom was an -idiot; and as three children in France are -reckoned a large family, she used always to -be complaining. The best dressmaker was -Mademoiselle Bouillet, Rue Charcelere. She -made our things very well; but towards the -last, when she found we were going away, -she hurried over the work without taking -the least pains, charging very dear for some -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>things, and quite spoiling others. She used -constantly to be promising us to send our -things, and as often breaking her promise. -She one day told us very coolly that we -might believe <i>her</i> promises, as she never -told lies; that her little girl was in the habit -of lying, but that it was not the case with -herself. Another day she told us it was not -her <i>nature</i> to tell lies, but her profession. -The French people do not seem to think it -wrong to cheat or lie, or the least disgraceful -to be told they do. Sometimes when we -thought anything we were buying dear, and -told the shopkeeper that we had bought the -same thing cheaper in another shop, she -answered, 'O madame, vous ne pouvez pas; -c'est impossible.'</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Monsieur Violet was our French master. -He was a good-humoured little man, and -spoke English very well. He generally wore -a green coat and light drab slippers; his hair -looked as if it had not been combed out for -a month: altogether he very much resembled -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>an ape. He came for an hour every day, -and charged two francs a lesson.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>Miss Wragge had the best Italian master—-Monsieur -Pecci—in Europe (so they told -us). He charged a napoleon for twelve -lessons, whether she took them or not. He -was a dark, disagreeable-looking man. He -looked like one of the banditti.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We went to enquire about Monsieur Capan, -the drawing master (none of us, however, -went). He was finishing one very pretty -picture; but he seemed to have a great objection -to show us his drawings: he said it was -quite unnecessary for us to see them. His -pupils drew from busts, he said; they might -draw all day if they liked it, but that he -generally looked after them for an hour or -so in the middle of the day.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>We did not get any music master. The -general run of French pianos are not good. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>Madame Verny offered to sell us a harpsichord -for forty francs-certainly cheap -enough; but as half the notes were like a -pestle and mortar, and the other half would -not sound at all, we thought it would be -no acquisition.</p> - - -<h4>FUNERAL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 23rd.</i>—As we expected French young -ladies to be very elegant, mamma was most -anxious that we should go as day scholars to -a French school; she thought, besides, that -it would be a change, as we were all sufficiently -tired of Versailles. We therefore -enquired of several people, and were told -that the pension of Madame Crosnier de -Varigny, Boulevard de la Reine, No. 55, was -the best at Versailles: they said it was not -indeed the largest, but the best and the most -select. We thought that so near the capital -there must be good schools; we therefore set -out this day to go and speak about it. In -our way, as we passed the Church of Notre -Dame, we observed it was all hung with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>black; we walked in, and enquired of some -people the cause. They answered, 'On va -faire un enterrement; c'est une dame forte à -son aise.' We walked round the church, -which is plain and dirty. A number of -priests, boys, and beggars went out to -meet the corpse with candles in their hands. -After waiting till we were almost tired, the -funeral at last made its appearance. There -first came in the beggars bearing lighted -candles in their hands; then a priest carrying -a crucifix; then a number of priests, -and boys that attend the priests, in black and -white; then two priests who held a sort of -black pipe, a serpent through which they -blew; after that came the coffin, covered -with white silk and bordered with black -velvet: it was placed on a bier elevated on a -platform covered with black near the altar. -A great many candles were lighted around -it. A priest chanted the whole way up the -church and during mass. Mass lasted half -an hour. After it was finished they made a -collection, after which the procession left the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>church in the same order as when it entered. -The old beggars also went out, taking their -candles along with them. There were forty -of them, the most frightfully ugly creatures -that can be imagined. Their skins were like -brown leather; they had on old patched petticoats; -they were blind and lame; one had a -nose as big as her face, and the next no nose -at all: they were altogether the most frightful -set I ever beheld. There were not many -people at the church, except some old women, -a number of whom are generally standing -about the churches. (Some of them take care -of the chairs. Every person that takes one -chair pays two liard, or on great fêtes two -sous.) These old women were likewise very -ugly. As the French women (except the -ladies) do not wear bonnets, their faces get -sunburnt, and the old women's skins look -like leather. Some grow excessively fat. -They wear a curious kind of cap, and generally -a red gown and a dark-blue apron with -pockets, and a kind of large chintz handkerchief. -After leaving the church we proceeded -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>to Madame Crosnier's. There were two or -three queerly-dressed, vulgar-looking girls -standing at the window. We were shown -up into a bedroom. Madame Crosnier is a -good-looking woman, genteel, and altogether -the nicest-looking woman I saw in France: -she had on a neat cotton gown (which is -more worn in France than in England) and -a pelerine. Mademoiselle Allemagne, her -<i>sous-maîtresse</i>, was not near so nice-looking. -The terms were for day-scholars, who did -not get their meals there, 10 francs a month, -drawing 10 francs, music 18 francs, harp 36, -dancing 9, and Italian 10 francs. School -hours were from nine to twelve, and from -one to three. Thursday was a half-holiday. -Madame Crosnier showed us some of the -young ladies' work: it was principally little -figures embroidered with coloured silks on -white silk. Catherine went to this school -the next day; Euphemia and I not till above -a fortnight after.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill11" id="ill11"></a><img src="images/p0115.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">PART OF THE FUNERAL PROCESSION</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 25th.</i>—We took a walk in the forest. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>It is full of paths, so that one might easily -lose one's way: the wood is very pretty. It -was evening when we walked in it, and we -saw one moth, the only one I saw in France, -except the cinnabars and some brown midges. -We met the King's gamekeeper, whom papa -spoke to: a little further on a drunken man -passed us: drunken people were by no means -a rare sight here, although we had been told -the contrary. When we got home it was -quite dark, and they were lighting the lamps, -which are hung on ropes stretched across -the street.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill12" id="ill12"></a><img src="images/p0119.jpg" width="450" height="678" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">OLD WOMAN OF VERSAILLES</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>ASCENSION</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 29th.</i>—This was Ascension Day, which -is a grand fête. We saw a long procession -of priests and soldiers, which I do not remember -very distinctly. After breakfast we -went to high mass at St. Louis, which we -were told was to be very grand. The priests -had on very fine dresses, gold, scarlet, silver, -purple, green, and all colours. It was quite -like some show; they changed places on the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>steps and figured about as if they were waltzing. -The bishop had on a gold mitre; he -was dressed very splendidly. There was -a great deal of fine flourishing music. -The priests flung about the incense, and -the little boys dressed in white muslin -over red gowns rang little bells, on which -the people knelt down. We went to see -service again in the afternoon; it consisted -of nothing but loud music like a waltz tune.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> -I missed the prettiest sight, which was seeing -a lady make the <i>quête</i> or collection for the -poor. The lady sat before the altar; she had -on a white gauze gown, and a veil which -hung down behind fastened round her head -with a wreath of roses. She had on white -gloves and shoes, and was dressed as if she -was going to a ball. An officer handed her -about, and the concierge went before, knocking -on the ground with his stick. (The -concierge is generally a very tall man dressed -in plum colour; he goes before the priests, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>funerals, etc.) The lady held in her hand -a little box of crimson velvet and gold which -she presented to everybody, and curtsied; -a servant followed with a crimson bag, into -which she emptied the money when the box -was full. The French churches are just like -some show. We were told that a French -gentleman had stayed at the English chapel -one Sunday during the sacrament; he said -he was very much struck with the stillness -and solemnity, 'avec nous c'est tout comédie.' -In the afternoon, before service began, we observed -a very poor, miserable-looking man -sitting with a money-box before him, and at -one side a shell full of holy water (which we -did not at first observe). Miss Wragge, -thinking he was a miserable object, as she -passed dropped a sou into his box; which no -sooner had she done than he dipped a little -mop which he held in his hand into the -holy water, and sprinkled it over her face. -This set some women who were kneeling -down a-laughing. After mass we saw the -rooms of the palace; they were very magnificent, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>but I had a much better view of them -some time afterwards.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill13" id="ill13"></a><img src="images/p0123.jpg" width="450" height="699" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A PRIEST IN HIS COMMON DRESS AND A BOY</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>NANNETTE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>May 29th.</i>—As we rather wanted some -person to assist our servants, Nannette, the -German servant we had at Passy, was sent -for. She was most useful in going messages, -as she would run all day; several people said -they were sure she was not a French woman, -she was so active. She, however, had most -of the French habits; if she was making a -bed, or doing anything else, if she heard -anything, down went her work and off she -went to see what was the matter. She never -could do without going to <i>promener</i> in the -evening, and going for a day up to Paris -once every week. Nannette also copied the -French in eating; besides taking the same -meals as our other servants, she used to be -continually eating at odd times. Sometimes -she cooked herself some <i>potage</i>, or else she -asked for <i>pain</i> and <i>quelque chose</i>; one day -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>she eat half a tureen of cold sorrel soup soon -after breakfast; and frequently cold meat and -bread. Besides all this, she never went out -without buying herself fruit. Her language -was a strange mixture of French, English, -and German. She hated the French, and -used to be very rude to them: they in return -could not bear her; they used to call her a -Prussian. Our dancing master once said, 'La -Prusse est la plus vile de toutes les nations -de l'Europe.' If Nannette cleaned a room, -she used to throw a pail of water over the -floor till the water ran into the passage. -The French say themselves, that nothing -has spoiled the servants like the Revolution: -if anything offends them they will go off; -and frequently choose to leave you when you -have company, or some time when you most -want them.</p> - - -<h3>June 1821</h3> - -<h4>HEAT</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 1st.</i>—This day was excessively hot: -the heat lasted just three days.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill14" id="ill14"></a><img src="images/p0129.jpg" width="450" height="655" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">WOMAN WITH THE CURIOUS CAP</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>WATERWORKS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 3rd.</i>—In the morning we were informed -by the porter's wife that the waters -were to play. In the afternoon we accordingly -walked in the palace garden, and were -very glad to find it was the case. The -gardens were very full, as a great many -people had come from Paris to see the waters -play. Some of the large waterworks did not -play, such as Neptune's Bath; and some of -the others only partly. Latona's basin was -beautiful; it was playing very little at first, -but while we were looking at it all the frogs -began to spout water, which formed a bower -of water over Latona's head, and covered her -and her children. The frogs, lizards, etc., at -the bottom, spouted water the contrary way, -which did not look so well. In the same -basin at each side were two pipes, which -sent out a column of water. Apollo's Bath -was playing a little out of the horses' mouths. -Two smaller pieces of water had a very good -effect: in the middle was a <i>jet d'eau</i>; on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>each side of one was a lion tearing a wolf, -and another lion killing a wild boar; on the -other was a tiger tearing a bear, and a blood-hound -killing a stag—out of the mouths of -these figures came streams of water. The -figures are bronze. One of the large waterworks, -called Le Basin de l'Obélisque, consists -of a number of pipes in imitation of reeds in -the middle of the basin, which send out -a column of water to the height of 75 -feet: this waterwork was playing very little -when we were there—it appeared like a -basket of froth. Some of the smaller waters -are quite as pretty as the large ones: one -represents Ceres seated on some sheaves and -surrounded by children. Another, a number -of children, some holding masks, shells, and -one a pair of bellows. The one that I liked -best was a small basin, in the middle of -which there is a little island which appears -to be made of bronze: on this are six little -children playing with flowers, and one on -each side which seems to swim or float. Out -of the island rises a column of water. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>waters looked particularly pretty among the -trees. There were a great many people in -the gardens, and the variety of colours resembled -a bed of tulips. Some of the people -were very oddly dressed. One woman had -on a most extraordinary cap composed of -pink satin and very pretty lace; she had a -gold chain round her neck, a white gown, -and pink cotton apron. (Her cap was not at -all common.) The French are very fond of -colours, and put them on with very bad taste. -We saw some people with perhaps a pink -handkerchief, a blue sash, a coarse cotton -gown, a yellow bonnet, and green shoes. We -saw one lady in church with a yellow bonnet -spotted with every colour; and another lady -with one side of her bonnet one colour, and -the other another colour. The ladies are in -general very plain. We were told that a lady -having tried to persuade an English gentleman -that the French ladies were pretty, he -took her to one of the great waterworks, -where she could see ten thousand people, and -told her that he would give her a gown worth -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>five hundred francs if she could find three -handsome women. The lady tried, but was -obliged to acknowledge that she could not. -The French women have not good figures: -the old women are very fat, and the others -are as flat as two boards.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Many of the ladies -were attended by <i>bonnes</i>, some of whom were -dressed more neatly than the French women -generally are:—with light cotton gowns, -muslin handkerchiefs, and caps trimmed with -lace over blue or pink paper. The children -that were with them were queer-looking -little things. The French children are old-fashioned, -dull, grave, and ugly: like little -old women in their appearance. The babies -are wrapt up in swaddling-clothes like mummies, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>and they wear queer little cotton hats. -The nurses carry them very carefully hanging -on their arms; they say that nursing -them, or tossing them about, makes them -mad. Some of the children have long hair -hanging down their backs and little hats -stuck on the tops of their heads and little -ridicules in their hands. We stayed in the -gardens this evening later than usual looking -at the waters, which from the terrace -had a very pretty effect.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill15" id="ill15"></a><img src="images/p0133.jpg" width="450" height="690" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A BONNE AND CHILDREN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>COLD</h4> - -<p><i>June 4th.</i>—Our long-expected and much-dreaded -hot weather has never arrived, but -instead of it cold, wet weather. The French -said it was an unusually bad season; they -were quite <i>en colère</i>. It was this day quite -a storm; from the quantity of rain which had -fallen there was a little canal before the door; -and as the dining-room was across the yard, -we could hardly get to it in wet weather -without getting our feet wet. I never felt -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>anything so cold as it was in France. We -used to sit shivering, wrapt up in shawls to -try and keep ourselves warm. There were -no grates; the fire was lighted on the hearth -between two dogs, and we used to sit round -it blowing the wood to try and make it -burn: to make matters worse there were two -holes, one on each side of the fireplace, -apparently made to let the smoke into the -room; these we were obliged to stuff with -paper. It was as bad in bed, and though we -had sent repeatedly, we could not get any -quilts and only one cotton blanket to each -bed. There were no carpets in the rooms; -only bare stone floors, from which, besides -being very cold, all the red came off on to -our gowns. We were most of us sufficiently -tired of France. I would have given anything -in the world to get back to England, -but we thought there was no chance of that -for a long time. Every person was dismal: -one got the rheumatism, another had a cold, -another was ill, another had chilblains, and -another was melancholy; and all said they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>would not grumble if they did not see other -people grumble. I went from room to room, -and could get no consolation. In spite of -their spectacles and processions, there was a -dulness in the streets and a want of life in -the people: everything seemed to be creeping -along and looking like oysters. The boys -amused themselves with a swing; when the -soldiers were exercising they used sometimes -to look in at the garden gate to watch them. -The servants were very dismal: they used -often to say how much they had been -mistaken in France, and what fine stories -they would tell about it when they got back -to Cumberland.</p> - - -<h4>FRENCH SCHOOL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 11th.</i>—This day Euphemia and I -went for the first time to Madame Crosnier's. -Catherine had gone for some time, and given -us a very strange account of it; but notwithstanding -all she had said, it was far worse -than we had expected. There were twelve or -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>fourteen English girls, three Miss Stephens -whom we had formerly seen at Bath, where -they did not look at all nice—they were here -very well dressed and genteel-looking; Miss -Fuller, a daughter of General Fuller, who had -a French mamma, a complete little dandy; -Miss Fitzgerald, who was a little plague; -Miss Molyneux, a nice little girl who had -been left there; Miss Julia Carpenter, and -several others. The nicest were two Miss -Wergs. The eldest was scarcely nine years -old. They were sweet, pretty little girls, -with good colours; they were a great contrast -to the French girls beside them. Ellen -Werg told me that they had come to France -for their education, and that their papa liked -it so much that they were never going home -again; but that they and their mamma hated -it. They used sometimes to cry when they -heard the other girls talk of going home, and -say, 'Oh, I wish I was going too!' We used -often to see them at church; their papa was -very crabbed-looking. They could not speak -a word of French: they left school about the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>same time as I did without knowing a word -more than when they came. Their mamma -said it was such a ruinous school they should -stay no longer. The French girls were the -dirtiest, rudest set I ever saw. They wore -very coarse dark cotton frocks or black petticoats, -dirty blue or red aprons with pockets, -spotted with ink, black worsted stockings, -and listen shoes. Some of them had large -bunches of keys hung by their sides, and -others sashes and braces of broad scarlet -galloon. One girl—Mademoiselle Rose—was -so dirty, that even Madame Crosnier used -to speak to her about it. She had on an old -cotton frock bedaubed with ink, that did not -meet by three or four inches; through the -gap one saw a pair of dirty stays and an old -striped worsted petticoat, and on the top of -a frock there was a gauze frill hanging in -rags. Her hair was matted with dirt. Some -of the girls had pieces of green glass in their -ears for earrings, black velvet round their -head, and gilt combs with the teeth broken -out stuck in their dirty, black, uncombed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>hair, which hung over their faces. Their -skins were dirty and yellow. The neatest -of these young ladies was a Mademoiselle -Sélina—who was conceited-looking, and -Mademoiselle Joséphine. The girls' manners -were as elegant as themselves—they called -each other names, and used the most vulgar -words. If in school-time any of them were -speaking, and their teacher reproved them, -they answered, 'Vous mentez, Mademoiselle, -vous êtes menteuse, je ne parle pas.' Indeed, -if they were doing a thing all the time they -were spoken to, they did not scruple to say -they were not. There were, beside Madame -Crosnier, Mademoiselle Allemagne, the first -teacher; Mademoiselle Croissé, the drawing -mistress, who also taught in the schoolroom; -and Annette, a kind of half teacher, who had -been one of the <i>young ladies</i>. I certainly -never saw an English kitchen-maid dressed -in the way she was. A dirty cap without -a border, a black petticoat, a coarse blue -gown tucked up like a bed-gown, a very -coarse kind of linen apron, and shoes down -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>at the heels, completed her dress. She used -to go about with a broom sweeping the -rooms. The girls took it by turns to clean -the schoolrooms once every week. They -used to tuck up their frocks, sweep the dirt -into the <i>cabinet noir</i> (or closet into which -the litters were swept), and then throw a pail -of water on the floor and mop it up. Miss -Stephens used to call it her <i>malheureuse -semaine</i>. The first morning we went earlier -than usual, school had not begun, and a -number of dirty girls were sitting or rather -lying on the floor about the passages, looking -like a set of gypsies. We went upstairs to -the <i>salle de dessin</i>. Mademoiselle Croissé -taught drawing. She was tall and sallow, -and was reckoned pretty. She had a pair of -staring black eyes, and a great deal of long -black hair, which she seemed to admire very -much, and used to bring in pieces of butter -in a curl-paper and grease it beside us. She -had done two very pretty drawings, which -she kept to show. We sat down to our -drawing. Mademoiselle Croissé drew us an -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>eye for a copy and left us; we might do it or -not, just as we pleased, she never looked near -us. Little Miss Fitzgerald had been learning -drawing for a great many months, but she -had only drawn two or three sheets full all -the time. Nearly every day that I was there -she did not even get out her paper, but sat -playing, talking, or running out of the room. -Mademoiselle Croissé used sometimes to -stand at the window, and if she happened to -see a cat, she had such a dislike to the sight -of cats that she was obliged to send one of -the girls from their drawing to drive these -animals away. At other times she was out -of the room, or employed with her own drawing, -so that she had hardly time to tell us -how our drawings looked when we had done -them. Once when we had just settled to our -drawings (Mademoiselle Croissé absent as -usual), in came two of the maids—'Mademoiselle, -il faut sortir, car je vais baller la -chambre'; we were therefore obliged to -decamp. The servants were the rudest set -I ever saw. Catherine had a music mistress, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>Mademoiselle Pascal; but she begged to have -her no longer. One of the pianos would -hardly sound, and they had no additional -keys. The mistress did not seem to understand -music very well, and she used to like -heavy playing. I do not think it is any -credit in the French masters being cheap; -at least, from the specimens we saw here they -got their money very easily. Monsieur le -Chevalier, the writing master, came once or -twice a week; he used to sit down at one -end of the table, and never move; he had a -curious squeaking voice. I could never find -out what he did except mending pens, and -those were so bad that we were obliged to -get Madame Crosnier to mend them afterwards;-she -also gave us the copies: he -never saw what I had written the whole time. -Euphemia one day said to one of the English -girls, 'Pray, is that man sitting there, mending -pens, called a writing master?' As for -the dancing, it was quite a farce. We heard -a great deal about the <i>salle de danse</i>, so we -imagined it to be quite a fine place; but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>what did this beautiful <i>salle</i> turn out to be, -but a passage leading to the schoolroom, in -which we hung up our hats, etc. There was -not a chair in the place. It was to my -astonishment that they could dance at all -in such a hole as it was. Monsieur Bréton -taught here. The girls dressed in the same -elegant dresses as they generally wore, and -we used often to hear them laughing, crying, -and romping. Of course we did not -learn.</p> - - -<h4>FRENCH SCHOOL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 11th.</i>—After we had finished drawing, -we went downstairs into the schoolroom. -It was a long room; in it there were two -tables, which seemed originally to have been -white, but they were now almost black with -ink-stains and dirt; at the top of one of the -tables sat Madame Crosnier, and at the other -Mademoiselle Allemagne. We none of us -did anything but write and copy one another's -writings; Madame Crosnier sat reading the -newspapers, every now and then looking up -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>and saying 'travaillez,' or 'paix.' The girls -stained all their frocks and aprons with ink; -if the rulers were inky they wiped them on -their aprons, and if there were not inkstands -enough, they had a very short expedient; -they made an inkstand of the table, by pouring -some ink on it into which they dipped -their pens. The paper of the room was torn -off, so that in many places one could see the -canvas that covered the walls. Round the -room were hung several maps, which looked -as if they had been nibbled away by mice. -The girls jumped over the stools, spirted ink -at one another, tossed about the books, and -danced upon the tables;<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> it did not seem to -be in the teachers' power to make them be -quiet, though they sometimes gave them -verses to write; but the most common punishment -was either making them kneel down -(which the girls seemed to think good fun), -or else sending for the <i>bonnet de nuit</i>, which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>they put on and laughed. Soon after we -had come down, one of the girls brought in -Madame Crosnier's breakfast. She used to -have such a variety; one day fish, another -asparagus and oil, another dressed eggs, -another pease, another minced beef, etc., -along with this she had bread, and wine and -water; and afterwards she had a cup of coffee -and some more bread, so that she did very -well. Soon after Madame Crosnier had -finished her breakfast, they had prayers; -the girls knelt down, while one of them -gabbled over a prayer as quick as she could; -the only words we could distinguish were, -'C'est ma faute, c'est ma faute, c'est ma -grande faute, par St. Jean, et St. Paul, et -St. Pierre' (then all the French girls crossed -themselves). Madame Crosnier and Mademoiselle -Allemagne very seldom knelt down; -they used to be employed mending pens -or correcting exercises. After prayers were -finished, the girls got up and wrote as before. -Madame Crosnier's two children used to -come running in, or squealing at the door -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>most of school-time. The youngest was -quite an infant, a miserable-looking little -thing, wrapt up in a woollen cloth, daubed -with dirt: the servants used to sit in the -kitchen with it on their knees, and stuff its -mouth full of curd. The other child was -liked by some of the girls, but I thought it -a most disagreeable little brat: it had on a -dirty, ragged, little brown pinafore, and its -face looked as if it was never washed. At -twelve o'clock Madame Crosnier rang a bell, -and then all the girls left off school, and -went into the luncheon-room. The day-scholars -brought their own luncheon, mostly -bread and cherries, and capillaire or sorbet -to drink; two little French girls brought a -bottle of wine, or wine and water, which they -drank <i>between</i> them. Those that did not -bring their luncheon got the sour French -bread and curds, or apples. Mademoiselle -Allemagne or Mademoiselle Croissé helped -the luncheon. The girls used to eat one, -and sometimes two, half slices off the flat -loaves a foot in breadth, cut very thick, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>sour curd as thick as the bread; the girls -used to take dirty knives out of their pockets -and spread the curd on the bread. The -English girls told us that they got for breakfast, -broth or radishes, or apples and bread; -for dinner, <i>bouilli</i> or roast mutton, and instead -of pudding, vegetables dressed with -butter; and for supper nearly the same as at -luncheon. After luncheon they used to go -into the garden (which was more like a wilderness) -and skip or run, or sit and talk, or else -they used to amuse themselves in the house, -in making little baskets, fishes, crosses, birds, -etc., of beads; which was very agreeable -work.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> At one o'clock the bell rang again, -and we employed ourselves much the same -as in the morning, till two o'clock, when -school was over. Annette taught in a different -room, principally the little ones. We -once looked in: all the little girls were sitting -dawdling and scribbling round the table up -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>to their elbows in ink; Annette was walking -round rapping the table with a short ruler -and saying 'travaillez, travaillez.' The -youngest of her scholars, who was only five -years old, used to walk up and down the -passages most of schooltime, and if any of -the English girls spoke to her she used to -say, 'Moitié Anglaise, moitié Anglaise.' She -could, however, speak nothing but French. -Notwithstanding the number of English, -not one of the French girls could speak -a word of English except Mademoiselle -Selina, who used to say 'Good nih, good -morning.'<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> - -<p>We were altogether very much astonished -at this <i>genteel</i> and select school; if I had -not seen it, I could not have thought it possible -for the girls to be specimens of French -young ladies. I only attended a month, and -though, at first, it was a change, I was not -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>sorry to leave such a dirty, disagreeable place. -Catherine and Euphemia were ill, and therefore -stayed a much shorter time. Madame -Crosnier's fête was some months after. I -was told that on her fête she gave a ball -and supper, to which she invited (besides her -own friends) all the young ladies and their -parents. One English girl said if she might -she would have no wish to come, for she -knew they would get nothing but scraps to -eat and sugar and water to drink.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Before -the fête it is the custom to give Madame -Crosnier a present. One year they gave her -a gown, another year a carpet, and this year -it was to be a clock. Each of the girls -subscribed ten francs or 8s. 4d., and some -of the little ones six francs. They also -gave a drawing or some present of their -own. At Christmas they each gave a pound -of tea or sugar, or a pair of gloves or some -other thing.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill16" id="ill16"></a><img src="images/p0151.jpg" width="450" height="582" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">FRENCH MILLER</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Before the girls took their <i>première communion</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>(which they take as soon as they are -ten years old) Madame Crosnier instructed -them a great deal on their catechism, etc.; -they did not come down or speak to any of -the other girls for a week before.</p> - -<p>Near the stables there were several girls -who used to beg from every person they met; -two were quite rude. As we went we used -to see people sitting out of doors getting -their breakfasts or dinners. They seemed to -have very curious messes: bread and fruit, -broth, and porringers of preserves into which -they dipt their bread, for dinner. On one -bench we generally used to see a number of -millers<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> sitting getting their breakfast, with -a very long roll and a knife in their hands, -and a bottle of <i>vin ordinaire</i> beside them.</p> - - -<h4>RUDE BOY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 14th.</i>—We had been with Carruthers -to the market, and after she had bought her -things, as there were more than she could -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>carry, she got a boy (of whom there were -plenty ready) to carry some of her goods -home for her. When we reached home she -paid him the common price, but to our -surprise he refused to take it unless he could -get a great deal more; she then offered him -some meat and bread besides the money, but -this he also refused unless he might carry -away the plate; and to try and frighten -Carruthers he said he would go and bring -the commissaire. After remaining for a -quarter of an hour the porter's wife came in, -and after scolding him for some time she at -last obliged him to take the money (which -she said was more than was usually given) -and the meat and go away, which he did, -abusing Carruthers all the way. This was -one of the boys who used to point at us on -our way to school.</p> - - -<h4>TRIP TO PARIS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 15th.</i>—I this day went to Paris with -mamma and papa: papa had been staying -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>there for a few days. We had a very pleasant -ride, and reached the Hôtel du Mont -Blanc, Rue de la Paix, where papa had been -before. This street is one of the best in -Paris; there are footpaths at the sides, and -the boulevards run along the bottom. We -walked along the boulevards under the rows -of trees; at one side there are the Chinese -baths, the outsides of which are curiously -ornamented with artificial rocks and figures -holding umbrellas, etc. There seemed to be -a great many people idling about. There -was a man with a canary in a kind of moss -bower; the bird was so tame as to sit still -without attempting to fly away. There was -another man with a tame hedgehog, which -he held up in his hand to the people; it -seemed to be playing tricks. We went -through the Passage des Panoramas, where -we bought a bunch of clear beads for five sous, -a sou dearer than at Versailles. We afterwards -went to the Palais Royal, where they -asked eight sous a bunch: the shops in the -Palais Royal are very dear and disagreeable. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>There were some curious things at -the windows.</p> - - -<h4>FLOWER MARKET—TIVOLI, ETC.</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 16th.</i>—A very fine day. After breakfast -we went in a coach to the flower-market. -We walked down it: the women had on large -straw hats. There were rows of flower-pots -down each side, the prettiest collection I -ever saw. There were roses, carnations, -myrtles, beautiful campanulas, geraniums, -Madagascar periwinkles, etc.: there were -also strawberries, currant, apple and orange -trees, all in pots. The apple-trees were a -a very small kind, the branches of which -were covered with fruit; there were likewise -little oranges on the orange-trees. From -this we drove to the Church of St. Sulpice. -There is a picture over the altar on which -the light falls from the top. There was a -wedding going on in it when we entered. -They were a curious-looking pair that were -married. I was not near enough to see -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>plainly what the priest was doing, but when -the ceremony was over he passed close by us -muttering to himself all the way; he was -dressed very finely, but he was the most -horrid-looking old man I ever saw; he -reminded us of the Inquisition and everything -horrible.</p> - -<p>Near the church is the Fontaine de St. -Sulpice; it is a very plain little fountain. -From this we went to Notre Dame, where -we saw the end of a christening. After that -we went to the Fontaine des Innocents; -it is a large, high fountain, with several -lions' heads, which were not playing when -we saw it. From this we drove to Tivoli. -In going to it we passed through the narrowest -streets I was ever in. I do not think -two carriages could possibly have passed. -They were very dirty and close, and had -such disagreeable smells; I was not sorry -to get through them. We got out at Tivoli, -and walked under a kind of trellis-work up -to the house where you pay. Tivoli is not -near so nice, or so large as Sydney Gardens -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>at Bath. There are several winding walks -bordered with Austrian roses, box, etc. -There are a great number of swings and -roundabouts of ships, swans, and horses. -We saw a man playing at a kind of game; -to a long wooden box was fastened a string -with a wooden bird at the end of it; he threw -it so as to fire a pistol, and then Cupid came -out of the top. At one part of the garden -there is a steep hill; at the top is a temple, -and near the bottom a sort of grotto; at the -top are kinds of carriages, and whoever -wants to ride down gets into one; they slide -in grooves down the hill and under the -grotto. I should think it would be a frightful -thing. After we had walked over the -garden we went into a café and got some -cakes and wine. We then left Tivoli and -walked up to Montmartre; it is very steep -up to it, but when one gets to the top near -some windmills one has a view of the -whole of Paris and the country round it, -quite like a panorama. On our way home -we stopped at several shops to buy a cap; but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>they asked us very dear, and had nothing -particularly nice. At some shops there is -written 'English spoken here,' and on one -'English <i>spiked</i> here.' It requires a great -deal of bargaining to get things for a right -price. At some shops there is written 'prix -fixe.' The people in the shops are remarkably -plain, and plainly dressed.</p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill17" id="ill17"></a><img src="images/p0159a.jpg" width="450" height="161" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE FOUNTAIN WITH THE ANIMALS (<a href="#Page_81">p. 81</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/p0159b.jpg" width="350" height="246" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE CUPID AT TIVOLI (<a href="#Page_105">p. 105</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/p0159c.jpg" width="450" height="217" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">LATONA'S BASIN (<a href="#Page_81">p. 81</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>SUNDAY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 17th.</i>—No sooner were we out of -bed than there came several men before our -windows, and played tunes. One man came -into the street with a fiddle, which he played -on, made grimaces, and jumped about as if -he were crazy. He was a most extraordinary-looking -creature; he was dressed like a -merry-andrew, with a white wig and a queue -on his head; if one had seen him in England -one would have thought he was mad. -While he was capering about, another man -came into the street with a puppet-show; he -put a table on the ground, and made first -some men and women, and then a carriage, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>go round it<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> In the middle of the day we -walked in the gardens of the Tuileries, -which were excessively crowded, and through -the square of the Louvre. It is the most -beautiful thing of the kind I ever saw; I -think it is a much more magnificent palace -than that of Versailles. It is beautifully -carved round every window and door, and -excessively white and clean-looking. I altogether -admired this palace, and the Colonne -de la Place Vendôme, the most of any of the -buildings in Paris. In the evening I walked -with papa on the boulevards as far as the -Fontaine de Bondy, which was not playing. -It was dark when we came back, and the -boulevards were crowded with people. The -cafés were lighted up, and were full of people -sitting taking refreshments. There were stalls -like a fair, puppet-shows, and conjurers. I -never saw anything so unlike Sunday.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill18" id="ill18"></a><img src="images/p0163.jpg" width="600" height="424" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">FRENCH PUPPET SHOW</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> - -<h4>LUXEMBOURG-MAN AND STILTS, ETC.</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 18th.</i>—We went to the Palais Royal -(on our way we bought a souvenir). I wanted -some little remembrance of France: we went -into several shops in the Palais Royal, and -the cheapest thing I could get there was -a little gilt cart and horse, for which the -woman asked ten francs. We, however, got -it for eight, which was far too much, as we -got as pretty a one in the Rue de la Paix for -half the price; we also got some silk winders -of mother-of-pearl. The shops in the Palais -Royal are very dear and disagreeable: the -people seem to make quite a favour of selling -you anything.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> Near this we got some -strawberries and cream in a café (Véfours). -After that we drove to the Luxembourg. We -walked in the gardens, which are <i>very</i> formal, -but pretty in their way; there are a great -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>many flowers and roses growing out of the -banks of grass. There are a few basins of -water, and a great number of statues. We -did not see the inside of the palace. As we -were returning we saw the King in his coach -a good way before us; he had a great many -attendants with him. In the afternoon we -dined at Major Cape's. Most of the party -liked France very much. Just before we -went there we saw a crowd in the street, and -after looking a little while we observed a -man dressed up in scarlet <i>à la</i> Henri Quatre, -with a feather in his hat, on horseback. He -rode up and down, and seemed to be making -a speech. The people then made a large -circle round him, and three little boys and -a girl who were with him, dressed up like -merry-andrews, got on stilts, and marched -and danced before him. The man then got -off his horse, and got on stilts; the man and -the children were on stilts so as to make -them the same height, so that the least, who -did not look above five or six years old, must -have been more than a yard from the ground. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>They all took hold of hands, waltzed, <i>sauteused</i>, -ran under each other's arms, and -danced a fine figure-dance. The man did -the worst. They danced to the beating of a -drum; the little one curtsied on his stilts, -and after they had done, the man put him -on the horse, and sent him round to collect -money. We stayed very late at Major -Cape's; and I was glad to go to bed when -we came in.</p> - - -<h4>RETURN TO VERSAILLES</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 19th.</i>—This was the last day I was -to stay in Paris, for which I was very sorry, -as I liked being in Paris a great deal better -than in Versailles. There are some very -amusing things in Paris, though I do not -think it is to be compared to London. We -expected Miss Wragge and brothers and -sisters to see the museum, which we had -been long promised. Miss Wragge, Barbara, -the two boys, and Caroline came just after -we had finished breakfast; but Catherine -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>and Euphemia were so ill they could not -come. (Catherine was not well when we -came to Paris, but we hoped by this time -she would have been better.) After they had -come we bought some gilt gigs, baskets, etc., -in a <i>very</i> cheap, <i>civil</i> shop in the Rue de la -Paix, where there were a great many little -ornaments. We also bought some silk shoes -at a good shop near. After we came in, Mr. -and Mrs. Fisher called. We did not go to -the museum, but went instead to the Louvre, -where we had a longer view of the pictures -than before; I did not like them better this -time than when I first saw them. There -were several Quakers in the Louvre; we saw -some in the streets of Paris at different times. -As soon as we came back from the Louvre -we returned to Versailles. On our way we -saw the Duchesse d'Angoulême in an open -carriage. When we reached the Avenue -de Sceaux we found Catherine <i>very</i> ill, and -Euphemia not at all well.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> - -<h4>COMMUNION</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 20th.</i>—Before breakfast we went to -see the girls and boys take their <i>première -communion</i> at Notre Dame. The church was -so full we could hardly get near to see them.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> -The first set of young ladies that came in -were dressed in white muslin frocks trimmed -with lace and satin, white sashes, gloves, shoes, -and ridicules, lace and white satin caps, and -lace or muslin veils; the next set were dressed -in the same way with pink sashes; the third -set blue; the fourth set green; and the two -next sets white. After that came a school -of girls dressed in buff cotton frocks and -common muslin veils, who seemed to be -poor girls: several nuns sat with them. -Another set had on thick white frocks. All -the girls sat in a seat by themselves. The -boys had bows of white ribbon on their arms. -Madame Crosnier's school was very smart -with white sashes like the others; those of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>her girls who did not take their communion -were dressed in neat white frocks, scarlet -sashes, and Leghorn bonnets. Madame Crosnier -and her teachers were very nicely dressed. -The girls had every advantage that dress -could give them; but we could not help remarking -how very different a set of English -girls would look to those with their dingy -complexions. They had candles in their -hands, which they lighted and blew out -several times during mass. Some of the -candles were very much ornamented with -gold paper, etc.; one had a little gilt basket -filled with flowers round it, and others lyres -on them. I thought there was a great chance -of the girls setting fire to each other as they -sat close together. While we were in the -church there were two women with a little -child beside us, which squalled and fretted the -whole time. It first would have one thing, -and then another. The women managed it -excessively stupidly; they first gave it a -cake, then snatched it away from it, then -whipped it, then kissed it; and they looked -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>at each other as much as to say it is impossible -to make it be quiet. The French -children are little petted, disagreeable, spoiled -things; they say that it hurts their health to -find fault with them.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> They are very dirty, -and their heads are covered with a cap of -dirt which they call the <i>Écaille du bon Dieu</i>, -and it is reckoned a kind of sacrilege to take -it off. Even the highest ranks of people do -not comb their children's hair till they are -two years old, that they may be covered with -this cap of dirt, which, they say, prevents -them having sore eyes and makes them cut -their teeth easily. Another prejudice that -they have is that nursing and tossing the -children about makes them mad; the doctors -say that it is only the dull air of <i>England</i> -that requires it:<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> some of them say that it -is that which causes so many mad people -in England. The consequence is that the -French babies are dull, heavy, and stupid. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>We were obliged to leave the church to go -to breakfast, so we missed seeing the girls -take the sacrament, which they take on their -tongues and eat whole without breaking it. -After they had done we saw them go home; -Madame Crosnier's school went in a coach. -In the evening we went again to Notre Dame, -where one of the priests preached a sermon -to the boys and girls that had taken the -sacrament, and told them to prepare for -being confirmed the next morning. After -the sermon was finished they walked in procession -round the inside of the church, the -girls first and the boys after, with lighted -candles in their hands. Some of the candles -were so much broken that they could hardly -hold them upright. One or two of the girls -did not look more than six or seven years -old: we supposed that they had not been -taking the communion, but were only walking -in the procession. It was altogether a pretty -sight. After they had walked round the -church they all went home. When they -receive their <i>première communion</i> it is customary -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>to give the priest something: this -time they gave a clock.</p> - - -<h4>TREE BURNT DOWN</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 23rd.</i>—This day is the fête of St. Jean. -We were told that in the evening there was -to be a tree burnt down opposite the palace. -Accordingly Miss Wragge, brothers, and -some of the servants, went to see the ceremony. -A tree was fixed up round which -were tied bundles of straw and faggots, and -a guard stood round it. The son of the -governor of the château came out in great -style, attended by several servants, with a -torch in his hand; he set fire to the tree, and -the people tried to pull away the faggots as -they were burning. The whole party gave -me a very poor account of it. The servants -said they could not think what made the -people make such a fuss about seeing a bit -of a tree burnt down.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p> - -<h4>FÊTE DIEU</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 24th.</i>—This was the <i>Fête Dieu</i>, a -grand fête day in France. Soldiers and -priests were passing all the morning. There -was a procession at eight o'clock, which I did -not see. At half-past eleven we went to the -Avenue de St. Cloud, where we were told -the procession would pass. There were a -<i>very</i> great number of people, amongst others -our porter's wife, who ran to get near the -procession that the priests might touch her -baby. We stood near Madame Crosnier's -school; the girls (except Mademoiselle Rose, -who was much as usual) were neatly dressed. -There were soldiers along each side of the -avenue. We were amused at several women -who tried to run quickly across before the -procession. After we had waited for a long -time the procession at last came:—1st, three -men on horseback; 2nd, a man in a red -gown trimmed with fur, who carried a large -red flag—two boys held the strings; 3rd, a -man in purple who held a purple flag—two -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>boys held the strings; 4th, a priest with a -red flag—two priests held the strings; 5th, -pioneers and a band of music; 6th, priests -singing; 7th, a number of priests with books -and crosses, and a concierge; 8th, priests -with censors full of incense, and baskets full -of flower-leaves;<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> 9th, several priests holding -a crimson velvet canopy, under which -was the Bishop of Versailles, an old man of -eighty-four. A number of pages dressed in -coats embroidered with gold, fleurs-de-lys, -etc., and a number of officers, closed the procession. -Along each side of the avenue there -walked the boys and girls who had taken -their <i>première communion</i>, dressed as before. -The girls walked on one side and the boys -on the other. One of the girls was dressed -in white silk and a blue and gold mantle, -with long hair over her face and back. We -were told that this little girl was dedicated -to the Virgin; she was a very curious-looking -figure. Several nuns walked with the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>girls. After them, along each side, there -walked a number of priests in very brilliant -dresses, gold, red, and green, etc. Besides -these there were priests in different parts of -the procession. Every now and then the -procession stopped, and the priests that went -before the bishop turned round and threw -incense and flowers, which looked very -pretty.</p> - -<p>After the procession had passed, we went -to see the <i>reposoir</i> of the Lyceum, which -we were told was the prettiest. It is a building -like a temple. The doors were shut, but -a very civil, gentlemanly-looking person let -us go in. The pillars were hung with wreaths -of green, and there were rows of trees in -boxes up the middle, cut like those in the -gardens. The altar was a good deal ornamented: -there were golden candlesticks, artificial -flowers, etc., on it. They were putting -away the things while we were there. The -person who let us in said it was customary -to give away the flowers; we got two or -three, which were all that were left. Before -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>the <i>reposoir</i> there was grass laid for the -priests to kneel upon; we saw some women -picking it up. There was another <i>reposoir</i> -in the Avenue de Berri, and one near us at -the end of the Avenue de Sceaux, which was -made slightly up, out of doors. There were -flower-pots on the sides, and a cross of lilies -and roses on the top. The children had -dressed up little chapels on tables against -the wall, in the streets, with little figures, -vials full of flowers, coloured paper, etc. As -people went by they came to beg 'pour la -petite chapelle.' One girl who came was -quite a monster: she had no nose, and -two teeth that stuck out of her mouth like -tusks. Out of some of the windows in -the streets were hung pieces of tapestry and -old carpets.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>June 26th.</i>—Catherine was now extremely -ill; indeed, no person seemed very well. What -with the cold, and one thing and another, we -grew more dismal than ever. This day papa -told us for our comfort (for the first time) -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>that as soon as Catherine was able we should -all go home. This piece of intelligence made -us all happy for a short time, as it was what -we did not at all expect. I cannot tell what -made me dislike France so very much; one -reason I think was that I raised my expectations -too high. I had heard so much of the -fine climate, the excellent fruit, and the lively -people, that I was quite disappointed at the -cold weather, the bad fruit,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> and the dull -people. Besides, I felt so far away from -home that I grew quite unhappy. Nothing -seemed agreeable; I was tired of the gardens -and the processions. My greatest amusement -was a little rose-tree that died soon -after I got it. In the morning when I got -up, the only thing I wished was that the day -was over, and that we had a day less to stay -at Versailles. The family that had lived -above us was now gone. Miss Ward and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>Miss Johnson—two Irish ladies, with Mab, -their French servant—now inhabited that -part of the house. They had come to France -on account of being ill. They were remarkably -civil in sending down 'comed-milk,'<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> -fruit, or anything else they thought Catherine -might like.</p> - - -<h4>BAKER</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 28th.</i>—Carruthers saw our bread-baker -standing at the street door talking to -some women, with <i>nothing</i> on him but a -<i>small</i> apron. The French do not seem to -have <i>any</i> idea what delicacy is.</p> - - -<h4>LAVOIR</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>June 29th.</i>—We went to the <i>lavoir</i> which -is at the end of the Avenue de Sceaux. It -is covered at both sides, and the water is -between. There are boxes full of straw -placed along for the women to kneel on. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>They beat the clothes with wooden things -of this shape <img src="images/p0124.png" width="22" height="25" alt="" />. -When we saw it this -time there were twenty women. One -good-natured, civil kind of woman took us -to see her wash-house, where she made lie. -She told us a great deal about the <i>lavoir</i>. -A porter takes charge of it; the <i>blanchisseuses</i> -pay three, and the <i>bourgeoises</i> four sous each -time, and so much for line for drying their -things upon. It closes at seven o'clock. The -people go to the porter and say, 'Place my -boxes in such a place for so many,' and then -he arranges them accordingly. I took a -sketch of the side of the <i>lavoir</i>; the people -seemed very much amused at it. One disagreeable -kind of woman called out, 'Mettez -moi en peinture, elle n'est pas gentille, je -suis plus gentille qu'elle,' and then she held -up her face to show us how pretty she was.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> -She told us to draw a woman with a barrow, -and she laughed and said, 'Elle est blanchisseuse -de torchons.'</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill19" id="ill19"></a><img src="images/p0181.jpg" width="600" height="372" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">LAVOIR</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>In France they do the things up <i>very</i> well, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>but in the washing they spoil them very -much. They put the clothes into some kind -of liquid which brings the colour out, and -they beat them almost into holes. A gown -of the servants' was quite spoiled. Our -washerwoman had a little girl with green -bead baskets in her ears.</p> - - -<h3>July 1821</h3> - -<h4>DUCHESSE D'ORLÉANS' FUNERAL—MARRIAGE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 2nd.</i>—We went to the Avenue de -Paris to see the funeral of the Duchesse -d'Orléans, which was to come from Paris. -It was close weather; one heavy shower -came on and obliged us to take shelter under -the trees. There was a person sitting on a -stone who told us she was reduced, and -talked<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> a great deal. There were soldiers -along both sides of the avenue as far as the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>eye could reach. There were a great many -cuirassiers; when the sun shone on their -steel armour it glittered very much; two of -their horses got loose and galloped all the -way down. We waited above two hours -before the funeral came. First there came -three men on horseback, and after them -several other men, then several shabby post-chaises, -and next the hearse, which was -covered with black velvet and silver. After -that came guards, pages, people, carriages, -etc. The avenue was <i>crowded</i> with people.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill20" id="ill20"></a><img src="images/p0185.jpg" width="450" height="541" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CUIRASSIER</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>At twelve o'clock we went along with Miss -Ward and Miss Johnson<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> to Notre Dame to -see the marriage of Marshal Soult's nephew -to the <i>femme de chambre</i> of the Duchesse -d'Angoulême. We sat very near the altar. -The church was excessively full; there were -a great many English. The bride was not -at all pretty. She wore a white gauze gown -trimmed with flowers, over a white satin -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>slip, and a veil fastened round her head with -a wreath of white roses. She was little, and -had not a good figure; the waist of her -gown was very long and made very high in -front (which most of the French gowns are), -which was not improving to her figure. -Marshal Soult was a vulgar-looking man, -with a cross, disagreeable countenance. His -nephew was not ill-looking. There were -three bridesmaids, who looked old enough -to be the bride's mother; they were little -and fat, and queerly dressed. The marriage -ceremony was chiefly done by the priest; he -read and prayed by himself, and seemed to -have nothing to do with them. At last they -each held a lighted candle; the priest read -some prayers to them; and one of the little -boys brought them a silver castle and a -silver plate to kiss. Marshal Soult seemed -to look at it with great contempt. During -one part of the ceremony a curtain was held -over them. While the ceremony was going -on we saw the priest do something that -appeared very irreverent. After he had been -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>praying on the steps of the altar, no sooner -had he risen than he spit on them: we afterwards -saw him dancing across the vestry. -After the ceremony there was a collection of -money. Miss Ward told us only to give a -sous or two; we observed the bridegroom -thought he had given too much, as he took -out of the plate what he had at first given, -and put in a smaller sum.</p> - -<p>After we returned from the church there -was a great deal of rain, thunder and lightning.</p> - - -<h4>PALACE ROOMS—TRIANONS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 3rd.</i>—A very hot day. We went -along with uncle Lancaster to see the inside -of the palace. The first part we were shown -into was the chapel. It is extremely beautiful -and magnificent. We looked at it over -the railing, which is marble and gold; the -ceiling is painted, and the organ (though -silver) is very light and pretty. We next -entered the Salon d'Hercule. It is 64 feet -long and 54 broad. It is entirely composed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>of beautiful marble; there is a great deal of -painting and gold about the ceiling. The -Salle de l'Attendance, Salle de Vénus, Salle -de Diane, Salle de Mars, Salle de Mercure, -etc., are all much alike, decorated with painting, -gold, and marble. After passing through -these splendid apartments several other large -rooms appeared quite small. The King's -library is not fine, nor the bedrooms of the -King and Queen. There are some very -curious glass closets in which one sees oneself -reflected at the top, the bottom, and all -sides, apparently without end. The Œil de -Bœuf is a long room, but not very splendid. -In it is a picture of Louis <span class="smcap">xiv.</span> surrounded -by his family; at the end is a round window -like an ox's eye. There is a very plain -dining-room, white, with small paintings, -which, though <i>nothing</i> like the other rooms, -I liked very much; it was quite a relief to -my eyes after so much splendour. The -Salle de la Guerre is a good deal painted -and gilt; there are some very good imitations -of bronze. From this you enter the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>Grande Galerie, which is 222 feet long, 32 -broad, and 40 high. There are seventeen -large windows, and as many mirrors opposite -to them. These are separated by pillars of -marble. On the ceiling is painted, in nine -large pictures and eighteen small ones, the -history of Louis <span class="smcap">xiv</span>. From the windows of -this gallery you have a good view of the -gardens. When we were there they were -repairing part of it. We passed from this to -the Salon de la Paix and several other apartments. -The Salle de l'Opéra is very large, -and I dare say when it is lighted up it -would look very fine; but I thought it far -the least pretty of any of the rooms; it -looked gone to ruin. The staircase in the -palace is marble. The only piece of furniture -in the whole palace is a small clock. -I don't think I ever saw anything so unlike -the residence of a king: there appears to be -nothing but gold, marble, glass, and paintings. -A man shows the rooms, to whom -you give something; both times I was there -it was full of people.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>We went through the gardens to the Grand -Trianon. The rooms are all on one floor. -They look very different to the rooms of the -other palace, but amusing in their way. We -waited in a hall for the person to conduct us -through the other apartments. In one of the -rooms there is a beautiful inlaid table, round -which are represented the signs of the zodiac; -it was made by a pupil of Sicard who was -deaf and dumb. The beds have plumes of -white feathers at the top; they reminded us -of hearses. Some of the chairs are very pretty -tapestry worked in lilies, roses, and birds. -There are also several tapestry pictures. -There is a long gallery between the windows, -in which there are a great many models of -ships. There are also several statues and -some curious little agate ornaments in it. -In one room there is a beautiful green malachite-of-copper -basin, and slabs of the same, -given by the Emperor of Russia to Maria -Louisa; the man who showed us the rooms -did not seem to like to speak about it. In -the same room there were some common, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>vulgar tongs, such as one would not see in a -kitchen. There were gold arrows on the -chimney-piece for lights, and very pretty -lustres. I think the palace is a great deal -more <i>amusing</i> than the other. After we had -been through the rooms we got some cider -and cakes at the place where we left our -umbrellas. We did not see the gardens, -which are said to be pretty.</p> - -<p>When we were rested we went to the -Petit Trianon. There is nothing at all to -see in the rooms; it is like any small private -house. The Queen's bed is gold muslin, and -the walls of the room are covered with blue -silk. The gardens are remarkably pretty; -they are made in imitation of English gardens, -designed by the unfortunate Marie -Antoinette, and have none of the stiffness -and formality of the other French gardens. -At one part of the garden there is the figure -of a Chinese holding an umbrella; it ought -all to turn round like a swing. Near that is -a small theatre, or rather music-room. There -are little streams in different parts of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>gardens, an artificial river, and a pond. -After you cross a bridge with rocks at the -sides, you enter a dark grotto, from which -you go out by a staircase. There is a music-room -and a temple and a tower; the man -<i>told</i> us that the late Queen used to get on the -top of the tower and sing. The pond scenery -makes quite a pretty landscape; several -willows overhang it, and three or four swans -were swimming in it; at one side there is -a farm-house, a dairy, and a mill. We were -told that the Queen used sometimes to dress -herself up like an English farmer's wife, and -call herself Mrs. Browne; she used to stay -at the farm, and her attendants used to dress -up as her servants.</p> - -<p>We returned home very much tired with -the heat; in the evening there was rain, -thunder and lightning.</p> - - -<h4>MADAME VERNIER</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 6th.</i>—As our house was very cold, -and the stone floors were thought to be bad -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>for Catherine, we took a house in the Rue -Reservoir, which we this day went to; before -we went, however, we had quite a battle with -Madame Vernier. We warned her a fortnight -before that we were going to quit the -house; but it was at five in the afternoon, -and she said we ought to have given her -warning before twelve; she therefore charged -us for another month. As mamma knew -this was an imposition she was determined -not to pay it. She sent for the proprietor of -the house (who was very civil), and also for -Madame Vernier. The proprietor talked to -her a long time, but she would take no less; -he then wanted Miss Wragge to go with her -to the <i>juge de paix</i>, which of course she did -not do. Madame Vernier had been a camp-follower: -she was a great, fat woman with -a voice like a man's. We heard of several -tricks that she had played the English; she -said that the French had payed plenty of -contributions, and she was determined that -the English should make up for it. Once -when some people would not pay her what -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>she asked for, she went round the house and -picked out every scratch and hole, saying -a franc for this, and so much for that, till she -made up the sum she wanted. Another -time she charged an unreasonable price to -some people who were dining there (her -husband was a <i>restaurateur</i>), and on their -refusing to pay it she locked the gates and -threatened to detain their trunks. As the -gentleman was very lame, he was glad to -pay what she required and get off, though -they had bargained before for dinner at so -much less per head! When mamma knew -what a woman she was she determined not -to pay her for the next month. Accordingly -she sent for papa, who was at Paris, and -papa and Dr. Murdoch (who had resided -long in France and spoke French perfectly) -went along with Madame Vernier to the <i>juge -de paix</i>, who said she was wrong, and in -case of her detaining our trunks gave papa -the name of a <i>huissier</i>. Madame Vernier -told the <i>juge de paix</i> that papa had attempted -to strangle her, to which he replied -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>that she looked more likely to strangle one -of the <i>garde de corps</i>. She told him that -he knew nothing at all about it, and came -away in a great passion. She then got a -relation of hers who was a lawyer's clerk (or -something of the kind), and she brought -him upstairs to convince us. The proprietor -tried to persuade her to take the money; she, -however, refused it; but when she found -papa was determined not to give any more -they all went downstairs, and after consulting -a little while, she sent up to say she would -take the money. After this contest she was, -like a tamed lion, and was quite civil. We -went to our house in the Rue Reservoir, -which we did not find quite so comfortable -as we had expected.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill21" id="ill21"></a><img src="images/p0195.jpg" width="450" height="564" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">MADAME VERNIER</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>NEW HOUSE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 7th.</i>—Our new house was nearly -opposite the theatre, which on a Sunday, -particularly, was crowded with people; every -Sunday evening a number of drunken people -passed our windows; one Sunday we counted -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>six close together.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> Our servants went one -day to the play, but it was so dirty that it -made them quite sick. Near our house was -a priests' school; we used to hear the boys -singing a great part of the day and sometimes -in the night. Behind our house there -was a small garden with very little in it. -When mamma went to see the house two of -the rooms were carpeted, and everything was -very comfortable. Although Monsieur Grincourt -had several days to prepare it, when -we came to our new house the carpets were -taken up, the curtains were taken off some -of the beds, and everything was uncomfortable. -The fireplaces were full of every kind -of rubbish. There were not enough plates, -glasses, etc. And we were reduced to many -curious expedients. The French are very -dilatory about bringing things. We saw -they did not intend to give us back our -carpets, as the next day they sent a frotteur<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>to clean the floors; however, as we had taken -the house with a carpet, we told them to -bring it, and we used to send Nannette to -scold every day till at last we got all we -wanted. They also brought quilts for the -beds, but they gave great charges that they -were to be taken off at night. We got two -tea-kettles which were a most extraordinary -shape. The French make some little things -very nicely, and other common things extremely -awkwardly. There was a bath in -the house, and the room adjoining it was -remarkably damp; a great many toad-stools -grew in the closet; there was also an ants' -nest below the floor. The porter's wife was -<i>much</i> younger than the one in our other -house; her husband lived at Paris; she had -one son of eleven or twelve, a very rude boy. -Different people lived above us, latterly a -Mr. and Mrs. Spurrier. Mr. Spurrier was -determined his French servants should do -like English servants; if he succeeded, I -think he did more than any person did -before him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span></p> - -<h4>SUNDAY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 8th.</i>—The lady above stairs played -the whole day without ceasing on the harp; -the boys at the priests' school made more -noise than usual in their playground; numbers -of people were going to a village fête; a -great many people passed by on their way to -the theatre, among whom was Mademoiselle -Croissé; we counted six drunken people; -shops were open as usual, and people going -about their work as on any other day. On -Sunday Madame Crosnier's girls spent the -day in working and dancing.</p> - - -<h4>VILLAGE FÊTE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 9th.</i>—We went in a carriage to see -the village fête of Louvécienne. Little Miss -Foaker went with us. It was a fine evening. -Louvécienne, or Lucien, is above four miles -from Versailles; it is very pretty about the -village. There were lamps hung across the -trees, and seats placed round on the ground -where they danced. Three fiddlers were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>stuck up in a kind of orchestra, and they -played a very dull tune extremely badly. I -was very much disappointed in the dancing: -it was more like a funeral than a dance. The -figure was a quadrille. They walked it all -till they came to the setting, which they -danced in their way, which was almost duller -than the walking. All the time they were -dancing their faces were as grave as judges: -they behaved as if it was a lesson they wished -to be done with; as soon as the dance was -done they laughed, pulled each other round, -and ran off to buy a sweetmeat at one of the -booths; then they came back as grave as -possible. One of the nicest girls was dressed -in a white gown, pink apron, green shoes, -and a gold chain; there was one very impudent, -disagreeable, vulgar woman, dressed -in blue cotton. Some were in white, and -some had on red petticoats, high caps, gold -chains, etc. There were booths, stalls, whirligigs, -roundabouts, etc., like an English fair. -We saw an old man and woman of sixty or -seventy riding in a roundabout. At the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>other end, near some trees, there was a party -of ladies and gentlemen; they danced much -like the peasants, in some respects worse—one -or two of them, however, danced tolerably -well. This party had rather better music, -but very dull. As we went away they were -beginning to light the lamps. It looked very -pretty to see the people under the trees, but -the dancing nearly put one to sleep, and the -music was like a funeral dirge. They say -that the French like dancing better than anything, -and we heard it very much admired. -For my part, I think it is neither graceful, -nor pretty, nor merry.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a name="ill22" id="ill22"></a><img src="images/p0203.jpg" width="600" height="461" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">VILLAGE FÊTE</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>MUSEUM</h4> - -<p><i>Tuesday, July 10th.</i>—We went up to Paris -at nine o'clock to see the museum; it was a -fine morning, but rather cold. It is a very -pretty drive; the country is beautiful about -the Seine. There were a great many bluebottles -and scarlet poppies in the corn, more -than I ever saw in England; the fields looked -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>like a sheet of blue and red. In Paris they -sell pretty wreaths of bluebottles. We met -a cart guarded by eight soldiers, with nothing -in it but old chairs and broken tables. -We arrived at Paris at twelve o'clock, and -went to two flower-shops, where were beautiful -artificial flowers. The carnations were -scented. They had not many wreaths: the -flowers that brides wear are the buds of -orange flowers. We bought several single -flowers, jessamine, roses, camilla,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> japonica, -etc. From this we all went to the cabinet -d'Histoire Naturelle. We remarked the floating -baths on the Seine. When we reached -the Jardin des Plantes the museum was not -open, so we walked in the garden till three -o'clock, when the doors are opened. There -was quite a crowd of people of all ranks. I -think it is wonderful that the things are not -hurt, as the people press close to the glasses. -We went to the upper gallery first, that we -might have more time to examine it. Several -rooms open one into the other. There were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>soldiers with swords in their hands, walking -up and down. We had not time to look at -everything; we only skimmed over the things. -The first rooms contain above two hundred -monkeys; we scarcely looked at them at all. -In this museum there seems to be every -kind of creature. There is a great quantity -of bats of all sizes; a rat with a young one -on its back; some very small mice, marmottes, -opossums, armadillos, lions, tigers, -panthers, etc.; a horse; most beautiful little -deer, some very small; a chevrotin; cats and -dogs. These were all in <i>glass cases</i> round -the room. In the middle of the room there -were two enormous elephants, a rhinoceros, -etc., a hippopotamus, which is a frightful-looking -creature with an immense mouth. -On the top of the cases there is a morse. In -the middle of the next room there is a whale, -a wild ox, a buffalo, and a cameleopard which -almost touched the top of the room. There -was the skin of a snake, like a trunk of a -tree, near the top of the room. The animals -in the middle of the room were not in cases. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>There was a great variety of springboks, -sjrisboks, etc., in this room, and also porcupines, -foxes, and a variety of other animals.</p> - -<p>The most beautiful and amusing room was -that in which the birds were. There were a -great many owls; pink spoonbills, scarlet -flamingoes, toucans, parrots of every colour, -very pretty kingfishers, penguins, cassowarys, -peacocks and hens; there was one -petrified ibis. The most beautiful were the -humming-birds; their colours were quite -dazzling: some were very small, and others -larger. There was one beautiful forked-tailed -humming-bird: its throat was of the -most brilliant green, and its breast amethyst -purple; the rest of its body was a shining -black. The topaz humming-bird is also very -pretty; it has a yellow breast and a red -topping. The red-throated humming-bird is -also pretty, but not so brilliant as my favourite -fork-tail. One of the larger humming-birds -is all bright black, like velvet, except the -neck, which is the colour of an emerald. No -colours could express the brightness of their -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>plumage. There were several nests which -were whitish. In the same case with the -humming-birds there were some scarlet -creepers, very bright and pretty, and one or -two blue creepers which were like precious -stones. We examined this case longer than -any other.</p> - -<p>There was a glass case up the middle of -the room in which were lobsters, corals, -shells, sponges, etc. In one part all the -insects were arranged. The butterflies were -the most beautiful things I ever saw. There -was one very large blue one that dazzled my -eyes to look at; another black and bluish -lilac; and the Amboyna butterfly, an immense -green and black one, with most brilliant -colours and shining like velvet. There were -several small ones striped yellow and black; -one very beautiful small scarlet and purple -one; several very large greyish butterflies or -moths which had small clear spots in their -wings like glass; there were two or three -smallish butterflies marked with every colour -like marble. The large butterflies were excessively -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>beautiful. There were several -English ones beside them that looked quite -dull and ugly. There were a great many -large moths; one grey and a great deal -marked was even bigger than the green -butterfly; there was another beautiful large -grey moth with purple eyes in its under -wings. Besides the butterflies there were -several other insects: dragon-flies, the colours -of which were quite gone; enormous spiders; -a great variety of bees; an ant lion at the -bottom of a small pit; very large caterpillars; -and a great many other insects.</p> - -<p>We then went to the lower gallery, which -is not so amusing; but there are some -curious fishes, a crocodile, very pretty marbles, -a large piece of gold ore, and a great -variety of stones, etc. Instead of real -precious stones there were only imitations -in glass, which looked very shabby. I was -very sorry to leave the museum; it was the -most amusing and beautiful thing in France. -It closes at five o'clock. After we had left it -we returned to Versailles.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span></p> - -<h4>DUCHESSE DE BERRI—DUCHESSE -D'ANGOULÊME</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 15th.</i>—Hearing a great deal of noise -amongst the boys in the priests' school, we -enquired what was the matter, and were told -that it was the Duchesse d'Angoulême and -the Duchesse de Berri come to visit the -priests' school. We went out to see them, -and after waiting a very long time for them, -they at last came out, got into an open -carriage, and drove away very quickly. -There were a lady and a gentleman in the -carriage with them, and several soldiers on -horseback. There were a great many priests -and boys looking out of the windows. -Neither the Duchesse d'Angoulême nor -the Duchesse de Berri are pretty: the -Duchesse de Berri has very red eyes. -Before this we had heard of the death -of Buonaparte. A man used to go about -the streets with a bundle of papers, crying, -'Voici les dernières paroles, et la confession -importante que faisoit Napoléon Buonaparte -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>avant de mourir.' We were told that this -was a famous spy. It was hot weather for -two or three days, and every person watered -before their doors.</p> - - -<h4>ENGLISH ROBBERS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 17th.</i>—This evening we had just -returned from walking in the gardens when -we were told by the servants that three -English robbers had been just then taken -up. There were two men and a woman, -who had robbed some English at an hotel -in Paris of a great deal of money, and gone -off with it; they were, however, all stopped -and taken up at Versailles. We heard of -another Englishman that had swindled. An -English lady told us that at Boulogne there -were quantities of English who came over in -debt, and that a prison there was so full of -English that it was called the British Hotel.</p> - - -<h4>HAYFIELD—MUSIC—CHILD</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 18th.</i>—This (and several other) -evenings we walked to the hayfield near -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>the Trianons. There were a great many -grasshoppers and brown butterflies (meadow -arguses) flying out of the haycocks. We -sat down on the hay, and Miss Wragge got -a wisp of hay round her leg, which she took -for a snake; this amused the people very -much. Near here we used to see some little -pensions of poor children going out to walk. -At the gate of the Trianons we saw a little -child of about three years old standing. It -came up to us with a straw in its hand, -which it held like a soldier; it then put it -to our faces and tickled them. We asked -it where it lived; it said 'là-bas.' Miss -Wragge gave it a sou. The French children -have a very forward manner; they come up -to strangers and talk quite at their ease. -We returned by the gardens. There was -now a band of music (every Wednesday and -Friday) in the King's garden, or the Tapis-vert. -There were a great many flowers out -in the King's garden: many different sorts -of columbine, honeysuckle, syringas, and -roses on sticks. The trees in the garden -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>(Hartwell) are not cut like those in the rest -of the garden, but are suffered to grow naturally. -The music was not pretty; the players -seemed very much afraid of tiring themselves, -as they rested more than half the -time. While the music played to-day, the -Tapis-vert was crowded with people. We -observed one little boy, who did not look -more than three or four years old, with light -curly hair and rosy cheeks; he had a kind of -little bag before him, in which were different -sweetmeats—dogs, lambs, etc. He ran to -every person and begged them to buy; his -little sweetmeats were a sou apiece. At -first we thought it looked very pretty to see -the little fellow selling the things, but we -soon discovered that he was accompanied by -a very disagreeable woman, and as the child -followed and plagued every one it was -quite unpleasant. As we returned through -the gardens we saw some watering-pots—great, -awkward, copper things—which we -drew on our nails. This was a fine day.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill23" id="ill23"></a><img src="images/p0215a.jpg" width="450" height="89" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">PROCESSION AT THE PREMIÈRE COMMUNION (<a href="#Page_116">p. 116</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/p0215b.jpg" width="450" height="83" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-top:2em;"> -<img src="images/p0215c.jpg" width="450" height="68" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">PROCESSIONS AT THE FÊTE DIEU (<a href="#Page_118">p. 118</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/p0215d.jpg" width="250" height="319" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A PASSING SOLDIER IN THE STREET (<a href="#Page_147">p. 147</a>).</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/p0215e.jpg" width="250" height="318" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE TROUBLESOME BOY IN THE KING'S GARDEN (<a href="#Page_150">p. 150</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/p0215f.jpg" width="200" height="176" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><i>REPOSOIR</i> IN THE AVENUE SCEAUX (<a href="#Page_121">p. 121</a>).</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/p0215g.jpg" width="300" height="185" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">ONE OF THE CHILDREN'S LITTLE 'PETITES CHAPELLES' (<a href="#Page_121">p. 121</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p> - -<h4>MONSIEUR SOUPÉ</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 20th.</i>—Monsieur Soupé (from whom -we got our wine) was the King's wine-merchant. -He told us that there were 500 -bottles of wine a day drunk in the King's -house, and that the bills are settled every -night; and that the King breakfasts at -twelve o'clock on eggs and tea. He told -us also that he had seen Buonaparte dine, -and that he never took longer than eleven -minutes. In the beginning of Louis <span class="smcap">xvi</span>.'s -reign 1300 bottles a day were drunk.</p> - - -<h4>SHEPHERD</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 21st.</i>—This evening (being fine) we -walked past the Trianons. We met a shepherd -with a flock of Andalusian sheep, and -two fine dogs with pieces of wood hung to -their necks. He had a crook in his hand, -and a bag with a bottle in it by his side; -one end of his crook was brass, and at the -other there was a kind of little spade. We -stopped to talk with the shepherd. Papa -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>asked him what the dogs' names were; he -answered 'Petit et Beau-Rouge.' The wood -was round their necks so that he might know -them. He said that he used the crook to -catch the sheep by their legs. He told us -that the use of the spade was to punish his -dogs, and to explain what he meant, he dug -up a piece of earth and threw it at them. -Papa asked what was in his bottle. 'Méchant -cidre,' he answered. Papa gave him a franc -to fill the bottle.</p> - - -<h4>BAL CHAMPÊTRE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 26th.</i>—We drove out in the carriage -this afternoon with Catherine, who was -getting better, and who frequently drove -out. We went round by the Trianons; in -the forest we saw some pretty roebucks, -which bounded through the wood. We -passed a field full of lilac poppies. In returning -we stopped at the Boulevard de -St. Antoine, where there was a <i>bal champêtre</i>. -There were lamps hung on the trees. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>The music was very dull. We saw them -dance two quadrilles. One <i>garde du corps</i> -danced in a most extraordinary manner: he -jumped and hopped, and kicked and bounced, -as if he had learned off a bear at the North -Pole. His partner, a little girl of ten or -eleven years old, danced very well. One -lady in a pink silk bonnet seemed as if she -had learned in the French style, but wanted -to dance lighter, for she walked two or three -steps and then jumped up. They all kept -bad time, walked and hopped. The three -Miss Williams and their father were there. -In the middle of their dance a heavy shower -of rain came on; everybody ran into a house -or went home. We saw the Miss Williams -standing under a tree, like three white graces, -half-way home.</p> - - -<h4>TOADSTOOLS, ETC.</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 28th.</i>—This was an excessively rainy -day; we found ten toadstools in Catherine's -room. There were several people dining -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>here; there were fires in the rooms, which -everybody was glad to get near. It was wet, -disagreeable weather. We were all waiting -eagerly to go home; the days seemed like -weeks. To make them appear shorter, I -made a list of all the days till the time we -were to go home, and I scratched out one -each day. This day was Nannette's fête; -she went to a Dutch frow (a German woman), -who gave her a nosegay.</p> - - -<h4>BELLE VUE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 29th.</i>—We drove out this evening to -Belle Vue. It was a fine evening. We saw -a man standing before his door watering -some boxes full of mushrooms. At Belle -Vue we went through a house where we had -a very fine view of Paris, the Seine and St. -Cloud. We looked at a vineyard; there -were no grapes on the vines there. We -heard that the bad season had injured -them.<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> - -<h4>PRIESTS WITH HOST—CORPSE, ETC.</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>July 30th.</i>—As we were walking out, we -saw some priests carrying the host to a -sick person across the street. A boy in -red and white walked first, carrying a lantern -on the top of a stick; next went -another boy carrying a cross. After him -two men in scarlet holding a little red -canopy over the priest who carried the host. -The sick man died next day. The servants -saw the body laid out in the <i>porte cochère</i> -with a vessel of holy water and a ladle -beside it; every person that went past took -a ladle full of holy water and sprinkled -the corpse with it.</p> - -<h3>August 1821</h3> - -<h4>VILLE D'AVRY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 4th.</i>—We drove out this evening -to Ville d'Avry. This drive is the prettiest -I saw about Versailles; there are woody -banks and paths, more like England. It -was late when we reached the village, but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>there was a clear, bright moon; and a woody -hill with a house on the top, looked exceedingly -pretty in the moonlight. There was -also a house under a woody bank covered -with vines; and a man was standing on a -ladder pruning them. This place is beautiful; -more like what I had imagined France. We -got out of the carriage to see it plainer.</p> - - -<h4>KING AND WATERS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 6th.</i>—We were told this morning -that the King and Prince Leopold were -expected at Versailles. Quantities of troops -passed our windows in their way to the -Avenue Trianon, where the King was to -review them. There were some La Roche -Jacquellines on black horses. At about -twelve o'clock we went (along with Mr. and -Mrs. Spurrier) to Neptune's Bath, near which -the King was to pass. The women charged -a franc apiece for our chairs. There were -rows of soldiers behind the trees. There -was a great quantity of people around -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>Neptune's Bath; there seemed to be nearly -all Versailles.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a></p> - -<p>There were several carriages waiting for -the King in case it should rain, etc.; one of -them was gold and red, very gaudy-looking. -A carriage came on first before the King. -When the King came, one needed four eyes: -to look at the King on one side and round -to Neptune's Bath at the other, for as soon -as ever he came the waters began to play like -fairy-work. The water shot out of each vase, -Neptune's horses spouted, and the whole -water seemed covered with spouts and cascades. -In the first open carriage was the -King, the Duchess d'Angoulême, Monsieur, -and the Duchess de Berri. Prince Leopold -did not come. Several carriages followed -with attendants. The King is a <i>very</i> fat, contented-looking -man. As soon as the carriages -had passed the waters stopped. It was an -extremely pretty sight. The King went on -to the Trianons and stayed there for a long -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>while. When he returned the waters played -again. They came back with large bunches -of flowers in each carriage. We saw great -numbers of the soldiers returning. Although -the waters played for so short a time, some -of the pipes burst. It costs 1200 francs -every time the great waters play. The -<i>restaurateurs</i> make a great deal of money -when they play, as it brings numbers of -people from Paris. About a week before -this the <i>restaurateurs</i> caused it to be put in -the newspapers that the great waters were to -play; and this brought a great many people, -who found to their disappointment that it -was all false.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill24" id="ill24"></a><img src="images/p0225.jpg" width="450" height="747" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">GARDE ROYALE. INFANTERIE CHASSEUR, I<sup>ER</sup> RÉGIMENT</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<h4>SÈVRE</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 7th.</i>—A very honest man with a -<i>voiture</i> was to come for us from Abbeville, -and then we were to go home. We expected -him on Thursday, but to our great joy he -came to-day, two days sooner than was -expected. The whole house was in confusion; -I was so delighted that I hardly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>knew what to do. We set off directly to see -the china manufactory at Sèvre. The day -was very fine, and we had a most pleasant -ride. The rooms in which the china was -were up a long pair of stairs. In the first -room there was nothing but plain white -china: the plates are a franc apiece. There -were beautiful large painted vases, some with -landscapes on them, some purple, and others -brown. Very pretty white baskets of flowers; -three little children under lace veils made of -white biscuit china. Curious-shaped salt-cellars; -an inkstand the shape of a boat, etc.; -several pictures, one of the King, the Duchesse -d'Angoulême, Sappho, etc.; beautiful cups -with humming-birds painted on them; a set -of plates with flowers, jonquils, polyanthuses, -etc., on them; another set with roses, and -another with vegetables, with their names -marked in gold; Bacchus and Ceres in a -car drawn by bulls ornamented with wreaths -of gold flowers—the figures are white; a -set of plates with Eastern pictures on them, -and another with birds beautifully painted. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>There are several very large vases: one with -a purple ground that cost 27,000 francs. -There is a large china table on which Minerva -is represented presenting the Louvre -and other galleries to France. Another -table, on which there are different palaces, -cost 35,000 francs. There were also some -very pretty white ornaments, with cones on -the top and baskets of grapes about them. -On one plate there is a view of Windsor, -and on another General —— drowning in -a river in Egypt.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> -<a name="ill25" id="ill25"></a><img src="images/p0229a.jpg" width="250" height="307" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE SHEPHERD OF THE ANDALUSIAN SHEEP (<a href="#Page_151">p. 151</a>).</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/p0229b.jpg" width="200" height="234" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">THE VIRGIN IN THE CHURCH OF ST. REMIS <a href="#Page_173">(p. 173</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/p0229c.jpg" width="300" height="253" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">BEGGAR WOMAN IN A BOWER OF DEAD LEAVES (<a href="#Page_170">p. 170</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/p0229d.jpg" width="300" height="204" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">DANCING UPON STILTS (<a href="#Page_167">p. 167</a>).</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/p0229e.jpg" width="300" height="187" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">PRIESTS CARRYING THE HOST TO SICK PEOPLE (<a href="#Page_155">p. 155</a>).</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The man told us that china was much -cheaper than formerly. There was a transparency -in the window; and some round -pieces of glass on which were feathers, -flowers, sea-weeds, etc., made in the shape of -birds. From Sèvres we drove to St. Cloud. -We could not go in front of the palace because -the King was there. I did not think -it pretty; there were a number of stalls -and shops near it which did not look well. -There were a great many guards. We returned -home by Ville Daure, a very pretty -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>drive. As soon as we got home the whole -house was in a bustle, as we were to set off -next morning. We had shoes to buy, calls -to make, bills to pay, clothes to get from the -washerwoman's, masters to pay, gowns to -get from Mademoiselle Bouillet, and things -to pack up. In the midst of all this bustle, -Nannette, who had gone up to Paris, had -not returned when she promised, so we left -Versailles without her knowing it. We -tasted some green almonds at dessert, which -were tasteless and insipid. The servants -packed till two o'clock in the morning; they -got the clothes from the wash at twelve at -night. All was confusion, but every person -was merry. It was the happiest day we -spent in France. I went to bed with delight, -happy to think it was the last night I should -sleep at Versailles.</p> - - -<h4>WEDNESDAY</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 8th, 1821.</i>—We had a cool but -pleasant day to begin our journey. Miss -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>Wragge did not get her gown from Mademoiselle -Bouillet till we were all in the -carriage, and she declared she would not go -without it, and told the man to drive off. -At last after <i>great</i> bustling we set off at -eleven o'clock; papa, mamma, Catherine and -Caroline went before in the carriage, the -rest of us went in the <i>voiture</i>. I never felt -so little regret at leaving a place. I looked -with joy at the houses and people, glad to -think I should see them no more. We sang -most part of the way. At a distance we saw -the convent of St. Cyr. We passed the very -long, fine aqueduct of Marli, and a small -one further on. About here it was pretty -country; there were a good many vineyards -and orchards in corn. We had a view of -Mount Calvary; near which we saw a set of -gypsies by the side of the road. We then -saw the Seine running through a pretty -valley; and numerous vineyards continued -to St. Germains, about which the country -is pretty and well wooded. We stopped for -some time at Poissy while the man rested -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>his horses. The house was like a public-house, -but the mistress was a civil little -woman. There was a cloth on the table on -which was some Gruyère cheese, a loaf of -bread and some pears; we took the pears, -which were very good: she charged a franc. -She told us that an English lady had -been staying there a month. There was a -pretty view out of the window. We walked -along beside the river, and got a nice view -from the bridge; there were a number of -washer-women beating their clothes, and -the water was white with soap-suds. After -we had left Poissy we saw several horses -carrying corn; their backs being hung with -sheaves in a very curious manner. The -corn about here did not look good. There -was a good deal of asparagus; in some -places there were alternate rows of corn and -asparagus. The man who drove us sang -most of the time, and altered his voice: he -had been in England, and he said that when -he came back to France he could not persuade -the people that in England it took -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>only one man to shoe a horse. He had an -English dog with him, which he said understood -English, French, and Spanish. The -name of the man was Jean de Grange. Here -the country was not so pretty, as there are no -hedges; the patches of corn and grass looked -just like ribbons, particularly on the side of -a hill. We reached Mantes in the evening. -After crossing two bridges we saw a curious -old church. The river looked full of soap; -I think the water must be very unwholesome -considering the quantity of soap which goes -into it. We went to Hôtel du Grand Cerf. -The floor of the parlour was boarded, and -there were two vases full of artificial flowers; -the people of the inn were civil. Two of -our beds were in the parlour, from which -they were divided by doors that shut like -a closet.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 9th.</i>—We set off at a quarter to -six. There were a few vineyards, but the -country was not pretty as far as Châlons. -The banks of the Seine are quite lovely, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>and the river looks well here, as there are -several islands in it. We saw a boat full -of cattle going across the river. There are -a good many houses and vineyards on the -banks. Further on there were rows of walnut -and plum trees by the roadside, which -looked very pretty. The corn looked fine, -but very much laid. There were not any -animals, except here and there a skinny cow -tethered by the roadside. We breakfasted -at Vernon. The room we were in was very -shabby. In one corner of a room we passed -through there was a queer jug—a boy sitting -across a barrel. They brought us in an odd-looking -teapot; the water was smoked, as the -tea-kettle had no lid, and the tea tasted like -herbs and water; the milk too was thymy, -the butter bad, and the bread sour. We had -been told that in this part of the country -chickens were <i>fourpence</i> a pair; the woman -here told us that they were <i>three francs</i> and -a half. It was at Vernon we saw a man -sitting at the door eating a raw artichoke -and oil. After leaving Vernon there came -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>on a heavy shower of rain. We saw several -men mowing the corn. When it was fair, -we got out at a cottage to gather some plums; -the man shook the tree, and we picked up -those that fell; we gave him half a franc, -with which he seemed satisfied. We walked -up a hill where we saw several butterflies; -some with black and yellow striped upper -wings, and under wings the colour of a dead -leaf. There were rows of apple and pear -trees; we picked up a few apples and pears -which were not ripe; the apples were like -alum and the pears like stone. The country -was here much prettier: it was more like -England; we even saw a few flocks of sheep, -but they did not seem to get much: in one -place they were eating the earth. As we -were walking up the hill an old woman came -to beg; the driver offered her a card of an -inn, which he told her was a Bank of -England note: she did not, however, take -it, but turned away. There were several -crucifixes in the villages and at the side -of the road. The women about here had -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>generally short petticoats, and <i>very</i> high -caps. The babies were wrapped up in -swaddling-clothes, like mummies. We stopt -at Louviers. The inn was very poor and -shabby. The mistress had on a curious cap -with long muslin lappets. While dinner was -preparing we walked through the town. We -went into a curious old cathedral, where were -several figures with candles burning before -them, and some Virgins dressed with little -veils, artificial flowers, etc. There were a -great many people kneeling down and repeating -prayers. We went into a shop to look for -some caps, but they asked a great deal for the -commonest, so we did not buy them. The -women here all wore the high caps. There -was one little boy with long flaxen hair, and -the lady who was with him took off his velvet -cap to shew us his hair. On our way home -we saw the same man and boys dancing upon -stilts that I had seen at Paris: there was a -great crowd round them, and a woman went -about collecting money, saying, 'Encouragez -la petite famille.' When we reached the inn -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>dinner had been ready some time. As soon -as we had dined we continued our journey. -We passed Pont Large in going out of the -town. The country was beautiful, and we had -another view of the Seine; they were making -hay on one of the islands. Our eyes were -quite refreshed by seeing two or three green -fields <i>hedged</i> in, with a few cows feeding -in them. Certainly if any person wished -to have a pleasant impression of France they -ought to come this way: it is beyond comparison -prettier than the Calais road; the banks -of the Seine are so beautiful. Near Rouen -there is a chalk rock and several caverns with -people living in them; and we had another -beautiful view of the river. It was dark -when we reached Rouen. It is an old, ugly -town, but there appeared to be some good -shops. We stopped at the Custom-house -(there were a number of ships near it): they -did not examine our trunks, but sent a person -on to the inn with us. We went to the Hôtel -de Normandie, which was all in confusion; -the father of the people there was <i>just</i> dead: -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>their mother had been dead two years. When -papa and mamma asked what we could have -for dinner, they said anything; after it was -ordered, however, they brought in only very -few of the things and said the table d'hôte -had eaten it all: and then they brought in -two raw pigeons and asked if we would -like to have them dressed. One of the hotel -servants had been at Brighton, and she said -she was very sorry to leave England, and -was going to try to get there again. She -spoke English tolerably.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill26" id="ill26"></a><img src="images/p0237.jpg" width="450" height="571" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">LOUVIERS WOMAN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 10th.</i>—Before breakfast we went -to see the Church of St. Ouen, where there -is a beautiful wheel-window over the organ. -One of the churches here is like a coach-house. -We set off again at nine. The -streets we passed through were extremely -narrow and dirty, and the town looked very -busy, particularly about the shipping and -river.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> We had a fine view of a hill just -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>out of the town. There were a few hedges -here. We saw a coffin covered with black -and white velvet on some chairs before a -door, with several candles burning round it, -and a procession of priests and boys with -crucifixes at a distance. As we were walking -up a hill we saw an old beggar -woman sitting by the roadside in a bower -of dead leaves: her petticoat was covered -with patches of all colours; she begged -of us as we went past. We also saw two -very curious figures with gilt caps and red -cloaks. We did not see <i>near</i> so many -beggars this way as we did on the Calais -road. We stopped at Tôtes, where we dined. -Before dinner we walked out past a long -building; we asked some women what it -was: they told us it was a corn-market, -which belonged to Madame D'Ossonval <i>seigneur -du village</i>. We got sugared peas, etc., -for dinner. After Tôtes, the country was -pretty: there were hedges like England. -A good many of the people here (especially -the old women) wore ugly cotton caps and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>ribbons and crosses. We walked up a hill -near Dieppe. I almost strained my eyes to -see the sea; it was what I had wished to see -for a long time; at last, when we had reached -the top of a hill, we had a view of the sea -and of Dieppe. We went to Taylor's English -hotel. Out of the window of the sitting-room -you look upon the ships: it is close to -the harbour. This day we saw none of the -curious caps we had heard about.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill27" id="ill27"></a><img src="images/p0243.jpg" width="450" height="577" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">OLD WOMAN WITH A COTTON CAP</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 11th.</i>—After breakfast we went -into the market, where we saw quite as -curious figures as we had expected. Some -of the caps had lappets like butterflies' wings, -and large bunches of hair turned up behind. -We saw some of the hair hanging at a shop-door: -it was coarse like horse-hair. A -number of the people were dressed in black. -We saw three women, like a mother and her -daughters, coming in to market with baskets -on their arms. They had on black gowns, -aprons, and handkerchiefs; caps, the lappets -of which blew out with the wind and showed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>a great bunch of hair; and gold ornaments -about their necks. There was one woman -selling fruit who had on a very curious cap: -the frame was made of pasteboard, and the -front of it covered with gold, silver, spangles, -tinsel, etc.; round the top there was a long -piece of muslin which hung almost to the -ground. The women we saw in the market -had their lappets pinned up. Some of the -old women had on cotton caps. We passed -several shops (in our way to the market) full -of little ivory ships and figures beautifully -cut. We walked up to the castle, from which -we saw the whole of the town. We afterwards -went on the cliffs on the outside of -the castle, from which we had a view of the -sea with several boats on it. A woman came -and spoke to us about a house which she -had to let; she spoke very bad French: she -called <i>cinquante</i> '<i>shinquante</i>.' I could hardly -understand the Dieppe people; they spoke so -much through their noses.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> We wanted to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>buy a cap and a pair of sabots. We went -into two or three shops before we could get -a cap to our mind; we at last got a leno cap -and an under cap to wear with it, such as the -women in black wore, which was the most -common kind. They told us that a gilt cap -when new cost 20 francs. Our sabots cost -sixpence: the old woman thought we intended -to wear them, and said we ought to -have a nicer kind. We asked several people -the way to the Church of St. Remi: the -people of Dieppe seemed to have a disagreeable -manner. The Church of St. Remi -is not beautiful. In one of the little chapels -there was a small figure of the Virgin Mary -with a child in her arms; her petticoats -were painted scarlet, and she had on a lace -veil, a crown, and a bunch of flowers in her -hand. We went to see the Church of St. -Jacques. There is a very pretty purple wheel-window -over the organ; and in a kind of recess -in the wall there were a great many figures -holding a sheet covered with real flowers: -before which there were twenty-nine candles -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>burning; several people came and stuck in a -candle. We looked into several of the little -chapels: in one there was a virgin, in another -a ship, in another some filigree work in frames. -We dined at the table d'hôte. There were five -English gentlemen. We could not sail this -evening, as the wind blew into the harbour; -so we went to buy pears to take in the ship -next day. While we were buying the pears -we observed a number of children standing -about and looking at the fruit. Papa bought -some currants and held them out to the -children, upon which they all ran away; papa -and the woman told them that the currants -were for them, but they cried and seemed -quite stupid. At last one boy rather bigger -than the rest took courage and said to the -others, 'Comme vous êtes bêtes'; and they -all began to eat, except one little child who -screamed and tried to get away, and a little -girl who ran home. We were all anxious to -go next day.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill28" id="ill28"></a><img src="images/p0247.jpg" width="450" height="504" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">FRUIT-WOMAN WITH GILT CAP</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 12th.</i>—We walked on the pier. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>There were a number of men working -at the ships; and a great many people -were walking about. The women had on -full petticoats, coloured jackets, red aprons, -queer caps, gold chains, long earrings, and -large buckles. The children had high caps, -and very full petticoats, so that when their -backs were turned I took them for dwarfs. -Even some of the babies had old women's -caps and earrings.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> Some of the people -had very curious caps trimmed with lace; -one had a cap with the crown filled full of -frills. The most extraordinary-looking creatures -were the fish-women: I could hardly -tell whether they were men or women. They -had on coarse canvas petticoats, so short -that one could see their red garters; blue -jackets, and canvas belts round their waists. -They brought in a great deal of fish this -evening on their backs, which they threw -down in the streets. Soon after the Peace -an English gentleman brought over twelve -of these Dieppe fish-women to Brighton to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>see England; they galloped up and down -the streets like wild things, stopping to drink -at every public-house: he kept them for a -day or two, and then sent them back. The -sea looked so smooth and pretty we wished -to be on it. We saw the Irish come in. We -walked out again in the afternoon beside the -chalk cliffs. There are a number of caves in -them; one large one with doors at the entrance -was full of barrels, etc., and in another -was a very deep well. At each side of the -pier there is a very large crucifix. Some -men were employed driving in posts, and -others in filling holes up with mud. There -were more people to-day at the table d'hôte; -amongst whom was a Frenchman who had a -very rough voice; he had just returned from -England from seeing the Coronation. He -scraped out the inside of his roll, and eat a -great many French beans and oil. In the -evening we saw a child's funeral passing the -window: the coffin was covered with a white -cloth with flowers painted on it. We all got -ready to go down to the ship. Papa had -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>taken the ship for ourselves, as it was so disagreeable -when we came to Calais with so -many people. A lady begged that Miss Reed -(her niece), who was sixteen, might go over -with us, as her father was dead, and her -mother wanted her home. She therefore -went in the same ship with us.</p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill29" id="ill29"></a><img src="images/p0251.jpg" width="450" height="508" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">DIEPPE WOMAN AND CHILDREN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a name="ill30" id="ill30"></a><img src="images/p0255.jpg" width="450" height="538" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">DIEPPE MARKET-WOMAN</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>SEA</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 12th, 1821.</i>—We embarked at -eight o'clock on board the <i>Wellington</i>, -Captain Cheeseman: we got down to the -ship by a ladder. The moon shone beautifully -on the sea. The <i>commissaire</i> came -after we were on board; he asked William -how he liked France. William said, 'Je -déteste la France,' and Stewart added, 'Et je -déteste la France aussi.' We went to bed in -the cabin, which was very nicely furnished; -but the beds were small and uncomfortable. -Soon after we felt the ship moving out of -the harbour, and I thought with pleasure -that I should awake far from France. Mamma -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>and Catherine, who slept in another room, -were pretty well; all the rest of us, except -Euphemia, were very sick. The light went -out, and papa was obliged to awake the -steward, who was quite tipsy. The captain -slept on the sofa. The steward went every -now and then to a bottle, and drank out -of it.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 13th.</i>—I awoke very sick. At ten -minutes to six Euphemia went upstairs to -see England. After we had had some tea I -went on deck, where I lay down, very glad -to leave the close, hot cabin. Euphemia was -a very useful little person; she went up and -down, and got us all we wanted. William -and Stewart sang 'Merrily every bosom -boundeth, merrily oh, merrily oh.' I raised -myself up to see England; the sight of the -white cliffs quite refreshed me. A boat came -out at eight o'clock in the evening; it was -very rainy, but we soon got on shore. We -went to the Old Ship Inn; the beds were -<i>very</i> comfortable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> - -<h4>ENGLAND</h4> - -<p><i>August 14th.</i><a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>—This morning all our -bones ached after being at sea, and everything -seemed topsy-turvy. It rained so -hard that we could not go out. The rooms -looked very comfortable, and in the drawing-room -there was a pretty clock, and fruit under -glasses. There were two neat, civil chambermaids, -who looked nicer than some of the -French ladies. Our things went to the -Custom House; they examined and opened -out everything. We had to pay for all our -books and drawings, and a smelling-bottle; -and for two pipes which only cost twopence -a-piece we paid eighteenpence, through a -mistake of the servants about the price.</p> - - -<h4>ARUNDEL</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 15th.</i>—Before we set out for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>Mrs. Howard's<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> at Arundel we went to look -at the Pavilion. I did not much admire it; -it looks like some Chinese thing. We asked -a man if we could go in front of it, but he -answered very rudely that we could not. It -was delightful weather when we set off. It -so happened that both when we left and -when we returned to England it was fine -weather, and very cold while we were in -France. I did not think the country about -Brighton so very ugly as I had heard it was. -We got on the first stage very quickly. We -were particularly struck with the neatness -of the cottages; most of them were covered -with roses or vines, and the grapes were much -more forward than they were in France. -Everybody looked so genteel and nice, and -the children so pretty. There is a steep hill -going into Arundel, and one has a very fine -view of the castle. Before Mrs. Howard's -house there is a small terrace full of flowers; -there were geraniums, and large myrtles -growing out of doors, though in France -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>they are obliged to take the laurels into -the house in winter.</p> - - -<h4>OWLS</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 16th.</i>—It was <i>very</i> hot to-day. -In the evening we went to see the owls at -the castle. There is a great deal of fine -ivy about the keep. There are altogether -seven owls. One they call 'Lord Thurlow,' -another 'Lord Ellenborough,' and two -others 'barons of the Exchequer'; they -crack their bills very badly. One that had -come from Hudson's Bay could mew, bark, -and make various noises. We afterwards -went along a new walk they were making, -and then through a field in which were -some deer.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 18th.</i>—We were surprised to -observe this morning that the sun was a -bluish silver colour, more like the moon; -we afterwards saw it was noticed in the -newspaper. We went to see the dresses of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>Mr. Wyndham (the Catholic priest), who -lived next door; he was a very civil old -man, and used to bring us in apricots -and gooseberries. His dresses were very -splendid-purple, red, green, gold, etc. We -saw the chapel; there were artificial flowers, -gold candlesticks, etc., on the altar. As -we were walking on the terrace we saw -the Duke and Duchess of Clarence, the -Duchess of Kent, and the Princess Fedor, -the Duchess of Kent's daughter. We saw -them afterwards in a carriage. I never -saw any place with such swarms of children -as Arundel; but I thought them very pretty -after what I had lately seen. The weather -continued oppressively hot.</p> - - -<h4>CORONATION</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>August 24th.</i>—We set off five minutes -before seven. It was very foggy. There is -a pretty hill and a good deal of wood going -out of Arundel. After the fog cleared away -it was <i>excessively</i> hot; every person looked -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>half roasted. There were a number of pretty -cottages; most of which, and even some of -the sheds, were covered with vines, roses, -and jessamines; there were also many remarkably -fine hollyoaks before the doors. -Every person looked clean and neat; there -seemed to be no poverty: we did not meet -with a single beggar. It was delightful to -see the green fields full of sheep and cows, -all looking so happy. There were several -boats full of ladies on the Thames. We saw -London some time before we were in it; it -only appeared like a great deal of smoke. -We scarcely saw any soldiers in London—very -different to Paris! We arrived at the -New Hummums, Russell Street, at half-past -four. In the evening we went to Drury -Lane and saw the Coronation. The first -play was very ugly. The first scene of the -coronation was a distant view of Westminster -Abbey. There were a number of soldiers -and people painted at a distance. The procession -was very long and beautiful. The -herb-women walked first, strewing the way -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>with flowers; they were dressed in white, and -pink roses on their heads, and the first had -on a scarlet mantle. The king had on a -crimson velvet robe with an immense long -train covered with gold stars, and borne by -seven pages. The second scene was the -inside of Westminster Abbey: the ceiling -was covered with scarlet drapery; there were -a great many chandeliers, and one could not -imagine anything more magnificent. There -were painted people in the galleries, and real -people at one end. There was a great deal -of music and a large harmonica. The king -went up to the altar, and they put on him -a purple crown. In the third scene there -came in a sailor who sang a curious song -about the coronation. The fourth scene was -the banquet. There were gold plates and -such a number of lights that they made my -eyes quite sore. The champion came in on -horseback and threw down the glove: two -other men on horseback followed him: the -horses reared and plunged: a man in armour -made of rings stood on each side of him. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>It was altogether beautiful. It was very -hot.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 25th.</i>—Before we set off we went -to Covent Garden market, and saw some -beautiful fruit in the shop windows; we -had not time to go through it, but what we -saw was not to be compared to the flower-markets -in Paris. We did not see anything -here very pretty. It was <i>excessively</i> hot -when we set off. We passed several pretty -houses, and we stopped at Hampstead Heath -to see Mr. and Mrs. Spedding.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> We dined -at Welwin, not a very good inn. There -were several nice little girls dancing along -with bundles of corn on their heads. We -slept at Antonbury Hill. It was a nice inn, -and the people were civil.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 26th.</i>—The weather to-day was -quite changed: it was cold and rainy. We -dined at Grantham. In one of the towns -we passed through there were some soldiers -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>and a band of music. We slept at Tuxford. -It was a middling inn, and the people were -civil.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 27th.</i>—The weather continued -cold and disagreeable. We breakfasted at -Bawtry. We passed Robin Hood's well. -About Ferry Bridge we saw a number of -people gathering teasels. We dined at -Leeds: it is a dirty, disagreeable town. -Numbers of children ran after the carriage; -sometimes six or seven got up at a time; we -had nothing to do but to watch for them. -The country was very pretty. Before Otley -there is an excessively steep hill; we walked -down it: a number of children got up behind -the carriage. We slept at Otley.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 28th.</i>—It was very rainy when -we set off. We went along by a river; where -was a pretty wooded bay. There was a great -deal of honeysuckle in the hedges, which -smelt very sweet. We breakfasted at Skipton, -where there was a cattle-market; and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>saw some hills near Settle; and passed a -pretty rocky river before Kirby Lonsdale. -We stayed all night at Kendal, in the same -room that we were in before, in 1819.</p> - - -<p class="p2"><i>August 29th.</i>—We set off at seven, happy -to think we were near the end of our journey. -No person in the inn was ready. It was -a dull morning. We passed Windermere -and breakfasted at Ambleside. After this -we passed some beautiful mountains very -much wooded, and Rydal Water, a pretty -little lake, and also Grasmere. As soon as -we passed the boundary wall and entered -Cumberland the sun came out and shone -brightly for a little while. We saw the blue -mountains peeping up behind, and the clear -mountain streams. We passed Thirlmere, -which is more like a river, and Helvellyn, an -ugly mountain. We saw Keswick Lake; -arrived at Keswick by one o'clock, and stayed -there till three. After we had left this, a -flock of sheep ran on before the carriage for -above a mile with a man and his dog after -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>them. The sun shone as we went up Whinlatter; -and we saw the end of Bassenthwaite; -the sixth lake we saw to-day. The time -seemed very short till we reached Cockermouth, -where we saw the new bridge they -were building. At last we arrived in safety -at Tallantire.</p> - -<p class="signature">M. B.</p> - -<p class="date">Friday, <i>December 21st</i>, 1821.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="center">Printed by T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable</span>, Printers to His Majesty -at the Edinburgh University Press</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Married Lord Teignmouth, Conservative member for -Marylebone, in 1838.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The steward was very civil.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The packet was nearly lost going in; we lost sight of the -lighthouse in the fog, before the light was put up as a signal -that there was water enough. In standing in to discover it -again, we got into shoal water, near the breakers, and had to -tack in ten feet of water, the vessel drawing near eight feet. It -was a mere accident our not striking the ground.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> In after years published a clever children's book, <i>Aunt -Effie's Nursery Rhymes</i> (illustrated), which ran through many -editions; also a volume of sacred poems, <i>The Dove on the Cross</i>.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> We expected we were going for a carriage, so we could not -think where they were taking us; the custom-house looked more -like a den of robbers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> I awoke this morning very uncomfortable; although I had -been very anxious to go to France, I now felt so far from home -that I would have done anything to get back again.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The governess. This 'clever and progressive' lady published, -anonymously, in 1821, <i>The History of William and his -Little Scholar, Joseph, with some account of Joseph's Mother</i>: -sketches of Cumberland life, based on her experiences with the -Brownes, from whose household the characters were taken.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> There is a hedge at one side of the Forest.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> At the doors of many of the houses we saw children eating -something out of a porringer and holding long rolls in their -hands.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Here papa left a pocket-handkerchief which was afterwards -sent, but another gentleman got it by mistake. The French are -very honest about stealing.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> They were the <i>Sœurs de Charité</i>; dressed in a black cloth -jacket and petticoat, a full apron, and a kind of linen cap. -By their side they carry a rosary, a death's head, and a pair of -scissors.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The room we breakfasted in was painted like a panorama.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Miss Wragge went to see the Church of Notre Dame which -was dressed up with gold cloth, artificial flowers, etc., round the -pillars for the Duke of Bordeaux's baptism.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Before breakfast we bought some Leghorn bonnets at -Madame Denis, Rue St. Honoré.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> As several men were looking down at the bear, one dropt -a shilling into the enclosure, and imprudently jumped in to get -it, when the black bear tore him to pieces as soon as he reached -the bottom. A man told us that the bear had never been well -since.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Mamma sent a small gold earring to Paris to be mended, -instead of which they changed it for a brass one.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> We saw part of the mass at Notre Dame; it was much the -same as the other.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> It may be of interest to quote the remarks of the author of -<i>The Diary of an Invalid</i> (Henry Mathews), in 1819: 'The -French women must, I think, yield the palm to their English -and Italian neighbours.... It is a curious fact that in 1814, -the English ladies were so possessed with a rage for imitating -even the deficiencies of their French sisterhood, that they -actually had recourse to violent means, even to the injury of -their health, to compress their beautiful bosoms as flatly as -possible, and destroy every vestige of those charms for which, of -all other women, they are perhaps the most indebted to nature.' -<i>Paris, May</i> 28, 1819.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> While Mademoiselle Allemagne was questioning them on -geography, Miss Fuller stood on the table fiddling with her -hand and imitating M. Bréton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> When we used to work at beads, the French girls were very -fond of taking our horsehair, etc. If we discovered them they -used to call us every name they could think of, 'Diable,' -'Menteuse,' etc.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The French girls seemed very ignorant; one of them -(Mademoiselle Josephe) of thirteen or fourteen, on being asked -what an active verb was, replied, 'Un verbe actif c'est un verbe -passif.' Another, on being asked what map the map of Africa -was, answered, 'C'est Amérique.'</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> A common refreshment in French parties; and a favourite -medicine also (<i>eau sucrée</i>).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The French millers wear very large, curious hats.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> We saw a monkey in the opposite balcony which played a -number of tricks.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> One Sunday, when papa was at Paris, he counted nineteen -places of public amusement open; on another seventeen, -besides many for the lower classes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> The milliners'shops are very ugly, but there are some very -pretty things in the others, particularly little dolls' chairs, etc., -of mother-of-pearl and gold, and flowers at the bottom. We saw -some pretty clocks; also a snuffer dish and a pair of snuffers -covered with flowers under glass.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> The girls think of their dresses for weeks before.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> They spoil them very much in <i>some</i> things, but they are not -near so <i>kind</i> to them as the English.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> I never felt anything but dull air in <i>France</i>; while we were -at Versailles six French people killed themselves.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> The baskets were <i>very</i> pretty: they were ornamented with -silk and muslin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The fruit that we tasted in France (except the melons) was -very bad. Their best cherries—<i>cerises anglaises</i>—were so -hard one was obliged to chew them, their gooseberries were like -blighted ones, and their pears and plums indifferent. (Grapes -were not ripe.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> A Cumberland name for 'curds.'—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> She happened to be very plain.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> The French are <i>excessively</i> great talkers. If one asks a -question in the street, they tell such roundabout stories one can -hardly get away. They never say they do not know a thing. -We one day went in search of a Mr. Dyas; we enquired of -nearly a dozen people the way; they each told us <i>different</i>, -and not one <i>right</i>. The people in the house he lived in directed -us to a different one.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> There were several French <i>ladies</i> with them, who, they said, -gave the most fashionable parties in Versailles, and were very -agreeable. These ladies were as much like ladies in their -<i>appearance</i> as servants.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> I think this must be a mistake.—W. B. Indeed it is not.—M. B.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> A <i>frotteur</i> is a man that comes to clean the rooms; he -fastens a small brush on to each foot and skates about the -room till the boards or flags are polished.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> An old-fashioned name for camellia.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> It was a young vineyard; there were plenty of <i>unripe</i> grapes -in the old ones, but spoiled by the weather.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> It rained part of the time, so we were obliged to keep up our -umbrellas.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> There were several pretty white buildings which were -manufactories.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> A number of people were standing round a woman who was -quarrelling with her husband.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Some of their earrings were tied on.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Papa would not pay the steward anything as he had been -so tipsy (but he asked poor Miss Reed for five shillings). Papa -had also a battle with the people, who wished to make some -additional charge for landing, which was contrary to his agreement -at Dieppe.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> An aunt of Mrs. Browne's.—<span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Of Mirehouse, Keswick.—<span class="smcap">Editor.</span></p></div> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Diary of a Girl in France in 1821, by -Mary Browne - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF GIRL IN FRANCE, 1821 *** - -***** This file should be named 53908-h.htm or 53908-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/9/0/53908/ - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. 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